Campeche

The Atlantic shores of modern-day Mexico

welcomed thousands of African slaves, commodities,

and pirates. One of the most important settlements in the Spanish Empire was Campeche, a city that to

this day reflects more than a thousand years of history through its Mayan ruins, colonial city walls, and diverse ethnic population. Campeche originated in the Mayan Empire, the most advanced pre-Columbian civilization. The Mayas are an ancient civilization that still inhabit parts of Southern Mexico and Central America; they are most famous for developing sophisticated pyramids, palaces, and systems of writing

and astronomy. 1 Bernal Diaz de Castillo recalls in 1576 that the first Spanish exploration group barely survived an encounter with Campeche’s inhabitants: “with great effort God wanted us to escape with our lives from those people. Once settled in our vessels, we discovered we were missing fifty soldiers.” 2 Indeed, the first encounter between the Spanish and the Mayans in Campeche also marks the first defeat of Europeans in the Americas.

After that initial encounter, Spanish conquistadors

came back armed and ready to conquer and colonize the land. On 22 March 1517, Francisco Hernandez de Cordova arrived at modern-day Campeche. 3 Colonization brought European diseases and the death of thousands of Mayans. Locals were forced to pay tribute to Spain and alms and indulgences to the Catholic Church; the immense expense forced them

into indebtedness. Most Mayans had no alternative but to work as servants and peasants in haciendas, large estates owned by Spaniards. 4 Spanish settlers paid Mayans wages in the form of cotton blankets and wax, neither of which sufficed to allow Mayans to break free from their economic obligations.

Campeche was not wealthy like Potosí or Hispaniola, subsisting on cattle farming and maritime trade. However, the discovery of an unexpected

commodity made Campeche one of the richest ports in the Spanish Empire. 5 A small, scrawny tree called Logwood yielded a purple dye, the most expensive dye color in Europe. 6 The export of Logwood to Europe

and other colonies brought immense wealth to the city. One account recalls that Campeche was “lined with fabulous mansions and churches full of gold and

silver and the finest Chinese porcelain.” 7 Logwood attracted pirates and encouraged the African slave trade.

As the city’s wealth increased, pirate

attacks became common. Campeche became the most fortified settlement in the West Indies. The most infamous attack occurred in 1663

when Dutch buccaneer Edward Mansvelt captured the city, seizing fourteen vessels,

collecting riches, and taking 170 prisoners. 8 In 1670 the governor of Campeche, don Frutos Delgado, sought help from the viceroy after

Henry Morgan’s assaults, writing, “the enemy surrounds our coasts…he has put himself in front of the Campeche port with ten vessels.” 9

Despite continuous attempts to protect the city with over 3,000 metres of fortified walls, Campeche was constantly raided by pirates.

The cultivation of logwood required

African slaves since much of the Mayan

population had disappeared. From 1580 to 1650 the increased demand for African slaves

was fueled by a racist rationalization that Africans, compared to indigenous locals, had “superhuman strength” to withstand intense labour practices. 10 The influx of African slaves into Mexico is not widely discussed in academic

circles. Miscegenation, a mechanism of power used by the Spanish, encouraged diluting African heritage by promoting interracial relationships. However, Mexican-African heritage is still very much alive. Today, one of the most important religious events in the city is the celebration of Black Jesus founded in 1565 with the arrival of Black Jesus with African slaves. Furthermore, the Mexican 2020 census will recognize Afro-Mexicans in the country for the first time.

Like many Atlantic city ports, Campeche was shaped by European trade, the African slave trade, and piracy. Visiting Campeche, one glimpses the past by experiencing the present. Campeche’s gastronomy, like the food in much of the rest of the peninsula, is influenced by

traditional Maya cuisine combined with European flavors. Fish and seafood along with exotic fruits and herbs feature heavily in the local cuisine. There are hidden gems in the city, including virgin beaches forgotten by most foreigners due to the popularity of neighbouring destinations like Cancun and other Caribbean destinations. Campeche city is located nearby Mayan ruins, including the city of Calakmul, one of the richest archeological sites for Mayan culture. With a UNESCO Heritage designation, warm sub-humid climate and rich history, Campeche is a unique and appealing destination for discovery and travel.

DANIELA DIAZ LOMBARDO INTERNATIONAL STUDIES MAJOR