PADDLER An interview with…
ezine
An interview with…
As simple as
The International magazine for recreational paddlers Issue 49 Late Summer 2019
SAL MONTGOMERY
DARREN Clarkson-King
Sean Morley’s seven bridge
CHALLENGE Priscilla Schlottman
Sea kayak training in…
CROATIA DimitriVandepoele
ABC Richard Harpham
Birth of a sea kayaker
ZACK KRUZINS His world travels
Big salmon and the
YUKON Ray Goodwin
At the edge of the world
GREENLAND Adriana Eyzaguirre paddler’s paradise of…
SWITZERLAND Guy Dresser
24-page late summer issue of
CANOE FOCUS
Britain north to south Palm - celebrating 40 years #ShePaddles - spread the love!
SUPing the Lower
KALI GANDAKI Liam Kirkham More hidden gems of the
GREAT LAKES Traci Lynn Martin
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH BRITISH CANOEING
+
The Tryweryn Festival By Phil Bulkeley The human factor By Tom Parker Testing, testing
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foreword
PETER TRANTER
Ed’s
‘Lucky seven’
When we started this venture off in September 2012, we were all very excited but at the same time couldn’t dare to think that we would still be around a whole seven years later. However, it’s not just that we are around but that we are here stronger than ever and we only have you to thank for that. People often ask me,“Which has been your favourite article?” and in truth it’s like singling out your favourite child – it can’t be done. However, one type of feature I always love to put together are the interviews and we’ve had many of those over the years from world champions to Olympic medallists and world-class paddlers of every persuasion and discipline. Many of the questions similar but it’s fascinating to see the difference in answers.
In this issue we have one of the smallest and bravest of all white water paddlers, Sal Montgomery. Sal has recently been brought to more prominence outside of the paddling community by appearing in the ‘The last unrun river in Bhutan’ documentary on Dave TV with Steve Backshall. I’ve been struck on how many non-paddlers were amazed by the bravery of the team and most of all by Sal, who undertook the role of lead paddler on the river for others to follow and who played a huge part in managing to rescue Steve from a very sticky situation.
Steve Backshall first approached Darren Clarkson-King on the idea of the documentary, knowing that he was more than likely the world’s foremost paddling expert on the region, so naturally we managed to rope in Daz for a few questions as well.
All in all it all adds up to a fascinating insight into the minds and bravery of those right on the foremost white knuckle edge of our sport.
This being our 49th issue means that we’ve had the pleasure and time to cement some really rewarding working relationships with some of the best paddlers in the business.
Dave Rossetter, Corran Addison, Chris Brain, Andy Grimes, Richard Harpham, Mike Shaw and Moulton Avery to name a few, have and still do regularly contribute coaching articles and now we have Tom Parker, with his take on the human factor in white water paddling and how it affects judgement. Welcome onboard Tom – your advice is invaluable.
Speaking of regulars and away from white water, we have a couple of gems from two canoeists who know more about the Yukon and wild camping than most. In the last issue we held an interview with Ray Goodwin, naming him as the ‘Godfather of British canoeing’ after he collected his MBE from Buckingham Palace. As those who know Ray are only too aware, he is a difficult man to pin down.
However, we’ve struck a chord with Ray over the past year with our Ray Goodwin series and this time we follow his exploits in the Yukon. The Yukon is a river we’ve also highlighted with Richard Harpham and his many involvements with the mighty 440mile Yukon River Quest race.To undertake that race amid Canada’s vast wilderness, it would be an advantage to know something about bushcraft and that’s exactly what Richard highlights in his ABC feature. Big congrats to Richard on becoming a Fellow of the Royal Geographic Society.
Dimitri Vandepoele is a well-known Belgian sea kayaker sponsored by P&H and Typhoon International, who knows a thing or two about coaching. He gave us a glimpse into his Croatian Sea Kayak Training Camp and the methods he employs to teach beginners to the discipline.Those lessons then allow sea kayakers to push their boundaries into stunning adventures such as Greenland – the land of icebergs. Adriana Eyzaguirre leads the way and give us the lowdown on how she prepares paddlers for the rigours of the Arctic environment.
English-based BC members can now subscribe to the print edition of the Paddler at the BC member reduced cost of £3.99 per single issue or £20.99 for the annual six-issue subscription: www.britishcanoeing.org .uk/membership/ benefits/communications
Adriana will be running more trips to Greenland in 2020, a year in which Traci Lynn-Martin is also hoping to leave her mark by completing an expedition to paddle all five of the Great Lakes in less than one year. She had to abandon her previous attempt in 2017 after3,500 miles because of frozen water.Traci’s experiences though, have given us two good features on the hidden gems that she found on her travels. Liam Kirkham also returns, not with his usual white water kayaking but with a story on stand up paddling and his reasons for choosing the Lower Kali Gandaki, Nepal, for his first attempt at white water SUP with his pal, Rich – an interesting read. Last but not least a big welcome to first time contributors Phil Bulkeley, a fine photographer and Guy Dresser who works for the World Paddle Awards amongst his many occupations, I’m sure there will be plenty more to come.
Thanks to all you fantastic paddlers for providing us with your beautiful, insightful stories with stunning photography – wherever you may be, please keep paddling and sharing. Finally, a huge thanks to all of our advertisers, subscribers, readers and British Canoeing, without whose support and encouragement we wouldn’t be able to publish. Here’s to the next seven years.Thank you.
ThePADDLER 3
CONTENTS
The Grave Yard section at the Tryweryn River Festival, Wales Photo: Phil Bulkeley (www.facebook.com/philbulkeleyphotography/) Editor
Peter Tranter peter@thepaddlerezine.com Tel: (01480) 465081 Mob: 07411 005824 www.thepaddlerezine.com
Advertising sales
Anne Egan Tel: (01480) 465081 advertising@thepaddlerezine.com
Design
2b Graphic Design Limited
Cover:
Sal Montgomery on the Rìo Palguin, Chile Photo: Casey Bryant Jones @caseybryantjones www.facebook.com/caseybryantjones
Additional thanks to:
Dale Mears,Tez Plavenieks, Matt Blackwell, Iain McConnell, Aapo Halonen, Jake Holland, Dmitry Ermolov, Georgina Preston, Eli Castleberry, Erin Bastian, Dominic Glur, George Younger, Ian Jones, Andrea Clarkson-King, Patrick McCormack, Dave Storey, Andrew Trender, Ivar Kohler,
Not all contributors are professional writers and photographers, so don’t be put off writing because you have no experience! The Paddler magazine is all about paddler to paddler dialogue: a paddler’s magazine written by paddlers. Next issue is Autumn/Fall 2019, with a deadline of submissions on Sept 20th 2019. Technical Information: Contributions preferably as a Microsoft Word file with 1200-2000 words, emailed to submissions@thepaddler.ezine.com. Images should be hi-resolution and emailed with the Word file or if preferred, a Dropbox folder will be created for you. The Paddler ezine encourages contributions of any nature but reserves the right to edit to the space available. Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publishing parent company, 2b Graphic Design Limited. The publishing of an advertisement in the Paddler ezine does not necessarily mean that the parent company, 2b Graphic Design Limited, endorse the company, item or service advertised. All material in the Paddler magazine is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission from the editor is forbidden.
Issue 49
006 The human factor
Late Summer 2019
008 Testing, testing Part 2 by Tom Parker
020 The Tryweryn Festival Five pages of new kit
024 An interview with… Photo spread by Phil Bulkeley
034 An interview with… Sal Montgomery
044 Big salmon and the Yukon Darren Clarkson-King
054 At the edge of ice & the world By Ray Goodwin
063 Canoe Focus
Greenland by Adriana Eyzaguirre British Canoeing’s 24-page magazine
088 The paddler’s paradise of… 098 Sea kayak training camp in… Switzerland by Guy Dresser
108 As simple as ABC Croatia by Dimitri Vandepoele
116 SUPing the Lower Kali Gandaki
Adventure, bushcraft and canoeing by Richard Harpham
124 Under the radar 2 Nepal by Liam Kirkham
132 Seven Bridge Challenge
More Great Lake’s hidden gems by Traci Lynn Martin
142 Birth of a sea kayaker
Sean Morley’s SF Bay challenge by Priscilla Schlottman
Subscribe to the print issue:
World travel by Zack Kruzins
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ThePADDLER 5
HOW FLAWEDTHINKING LEADSTO DANGER ONTHE RIVER Welcome, once again, to the Human Factor, a series of articles about our decision making processes in white water and how they can lead to incidents. In the first issue, we explored the idea, put forward by Kahnemann, that we have two broad approaches to decision making, the intuitive, rapid route he terms system 1 and the slower, more analytical approach he terms system 2.
ANCHORING – HAVING A REFERENCE POINT
I'd like you to conduct a quick experiment. Take an ordinary die. Roll it and times the result by ten. Four would become forty, for example. This represents a percentage. Write it down. Now consider these questions:
Is the percentage of African nations with UN membership higher or lower than the number you just wrote?
What is your best guess of the percentage of African nations with UN membership?
I’m going to make an assumption here but it is based on a considerable amount of prior experimental evidence. Your best guess will be relatively close to the percentage represented by the dice roll, even though that bears no relevance to the percentage of states in Africa with UN membership. This is a strong example of the Anchoring effect. This occurs when people consider an answer to a question before analysing relevant data.
The result of the initial consideration often becomes a reference point that subsequent answers stay in proximity to. A classic everyday example is in sale pricing.The item is often advertised as, “Was however much, now only this much.” We compare the new piece of information favourably against the original, regardless of how affordable it is. Whilst the Anchoring effect is particularly prevalent in questions involving numbers, it can occur with broader concepts and beliefs.
A good contextual example that comes to mind is river gauge information. It's a valuable tool to help us plan but we have to be aware of potential flaws and inconsistencies, rather than taking it as concrete. We need to consider gauge location relative to the sections we want to paddle and how regularly the gauge updates its readings. We need to treat the information as a guide but be critical of it in order to minimise the chance of being anchored to one viewpoint that could restrict or misguide our decisions.
CONFIRMATION BIAS – NOBODY LIKES BEING WRONG...
As humans, once we develop a concept, viewpoint or plan, we like to stick to it, regardless of new pieces of information that would challenge the validity of the original idea. In fact, we subconsciously seek to undermine or completely avoid any information that could challenge the original idea, while subconsciously seeking out information that reinforces the original idea, regardless of the validity of the new information.
A simple, prevalent and dangerous example of this is political ideology and social media. I’m sure that we all
Tom Parker is one of the UK’s more active and experienced white water coaches. Tom is a Level 5 Coach, British Canoeing National Trainer and Rescue 3 International InstructorTrainer.To find out more about his courses head to
www.tomparkercoaching.co.uk
Both of these systems have their place in our decision making but problems arise if we use an intuitive approach whilst believing we are being analytical. This tends to happen in the form of biases that affect our thinking without us realising. These biases creep in, in part, because taking an analytical approach to decision making all the time is a big effort so these biases lessen the perception of effort but at the cost of flaws in the outcome.
By Tom Parker
#2
The human factor
ThePADDLER 6
hold a variety of political viewpoints. However, how many of us surround ourselves, tangibly or through social media, with people who support that ideology, creating something of an echo chamber. This can mean that we never analyse or challenge our own views, leading potentially to conflict.
A river example would be based around planning. A group could develop a plan for the day but could then fall into the trap of seeking information as the day progresses to lend credit to that plan, regardless of how valid the information is. This can be very tricky to combat. Dr Sara Boilen, a clinical psychologist and backcountry skier/avalanche educator based in Montana, advocates having an experienced member of the team play devil’s advocate for the trip, trying to find valid reasons against the plan.
As we can see, our willingness to anchor to a particular plan, piece of information or concept then our tendency to bias towards information that favours that original idea, regardless of its validity can cause us problems in a dynamic, adventurous environment, where hazards change regularly. Challenging this mindset is tricky, as it requires analysis of plans and information.
“WHY?”
Thinking back to the last issue, we know that this will require the use of System 2, the consciously analytical approach, which takes quite a lot of effort. Creating a questioning ethos within the group, where people are empowered to ask, “Why?” can be a powerful defence against these biases. However, this approach also has weaknesses, as we shall explore next issue...
ThePADDLER 8
Testing, P&HValkyrie
www.phseakayaks.com Dimitri Vandepoele www.youtube.com/northseakayak
I’m a hardened P&H Sea Kayaks fan and would be lying to you if I said I waited patiently for a true P&H fast sea kayak; I was like a kid waiting for his new toy to come, and I was excited when P&H finally announced that they would produce the very first polyethylene fast sea kayak. I hear some of you thinking, “There is nothing new about a fast sea kayak anymore…”, but P&H have managed (as always) to create something that distinguishes itself from the others. It’s a truly unique boat, I can tell you, but let’s not get ahead of ourselves.
I took my time testing this new boat to give proper feedback; I have paddled not less than 350 kms (or 189 nautical miles) in a wide variety of conditions and I did the same training with it as I do in my Cetus with my team.
There are a few things that I find important in a sea kayak; how it behaves/performs, how well it is equipped, how the build quality is, and how it looks.
PERFORMANCE/BEHAVIOUR
The hull is based on that of a true surf ski and is very straight with almost no rocker from the bow to the cockpit; from the back of the cockpit to the stern, however, the rocker is noticeable, and this gives the Valkyrie very specific behaviour characteristics.
I needed to adapt a bit at first to a boat that uses a rudder and had already gotten a lot of questions from fellow paddlers on how the boat behaves without the rudder; as I was curious myself, that was one of the first things I tested out. If there is no or little wind, and flat calm conditions, then it’s possible to paddle the Valkyrie without a rudder, but you will certainly need the right skills to do so, making use of the proper techniques (edging, sweep strokes occasionally).
But what if you paddle this boat with the rudder? Well, the SmartTrack rudder is good quality, as are the foot pegs, which are also easily adjustable whilst
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testin
ou want y ion. If y o u stat rp st r
The Paddle r ez ine te
sat in the cockpit without changing the rudder setting. The rudder itself is easily removable for transport.
nte of i
Unfortunately, I found the foot pegs were positioned a bit too low for me, and instead of just needing to use my toes, I had to push with the upper half of my foot, which caused some pain in the soles of my feet when using the rudder intensively.
res t to pa
I tried to swap over the cables near the rudder, where they emerge from the kayak, in order to make things work more intuitively for myself. This works but causes more friction in the lines due to the way the deck cutaways are near the rudder itself. As for the pedals, they function very well, and you can make minor adjustments (to the rudder) on the fly due to the connection in the cockpit itself.
e will b nd it ed a iew rev uct od
As a full-blooded sea kayaker, I’m naturally opposed to rudders and used to edging in order to make a turn, putting the most pressure on the pedal on the outside of the turn. With the Valkyrie, as with surf skis, I now need to push the pedal on the inside of the turn in order to operate the rudder, which I find awkward.
m .co
dd lers - email us: review s@thep addle rez ine
ThePADDLER 9
ThePADDLER 10 Overall, I must admit that I have a love/hate relationship with rudders, and so during one of the downwinders, I decided to put the rudder up and paddle without it; as weird as it may sound, I was still able to control the Valkyrie very well, and had more fun because I could control my boat myself instead of letting the rudder do all the work. The boat rarely broached, even with bigger waves.
The Valkyrie is certainly not a boat for beginners, but for the more experienced paddler. I got a lot of pleasure out of this one during the rougher conditions.
on your sofa. I hear my fellow paddlers sometimes say that I’m wearing my boat instead of paddling it.
Since I’m not the tallest paddler, I do find the cockpit to be a little too high. It starts low at the back, perfect for a backwards roll, and then rises towards the front. The upside of this is that you can paddle with your legs in the thigh braces or with your knees together, surf ski style, and the Valkyrie is stable enough to do the latter even in rougher conditions.
Is it fast? Well, that is probably the question I was asked most. I cannot give average speeds; every sea kayaker knows that it is nearly impossible to give objective numbers for this. On the sea, tidal currents and wind make it hard to compare average speeds. I can however say that I paddle my familiar training trips faster in the Valkyrie than in my Cetus (which is also a fast, but classic style sea kayak). The Valkyrie is made for speed, and it sure delivers.
EQUIPMENT/OUTFITTING:
I already spoke of the Connect seat’s comfort, and although the Valkyrie is narrow, there is enough space in the cockpit itself too; you can still move your legs around during longer offshore trips, and there is room enough to make a swift re-entry during a rescue.
TRACKING
Now back to how the Valkyrie tracks. You need the rudder with crosswinds, otherwise you will not get very far. Without the rudder in the water the boat tends to weathercock very fast. I tried out all the same steering and control techniques as I use when paddling my P&H Cetus and I must say that I’m rather surprised; if you lean and edge enough it’s possible to turn rather fast on the spot.
I’ve already mentioned paddling downwind in the Valkyrie. When paddling upwind, the bow pierces through the waves like they don’t exist; the water smoothly flows over the front deck until it reaches the first hatch. The bow hatch cover is tilted so you can easily load longer items, but due to this positioning, the front edge peeks out a bit, and when the water flows over this it tends to spray outwards. It’s a rather wet ride, but I don’t mind getting wet… if you follow the NORTHSEAKAYAK YouTube channel, you’ll see I spend a lot of time in the water during rescue training! It’s the same when the boat goes into surf, the water flows over the deck and splashes up against the front hatch.
It is great to see the difference between the Valkyrie and a classic sea kayak; the bow goes slightly under like it was a submarine when on the steeper waves, nicely shedding the water in front of you, making place for the rest of the boat to follow smoothly.
Once again, as with all P&H Sea Kayaks, one of my favourite things is the CONNECT seat! It’s fully adjustable, making you feel like you’re sat at home
Talking about rescues… Yes, you know where this is going… I tested out how well a self-rescue goes with the Valkyrie in all kinds of conditions. Have you seen the Self Rescue Training Drill on our YouTube channel, with the balance exercises? This drill goes well in the Valkyrie, even in choppy conditions. The only thing that is a little in the way is the day-hatch; as both it and the bow mini hatch are optional for those who don’t mind the added weight, they are not moulded-in like with the Cetus, and so the cover is raised a little more. You feel this when seated just behind the cockpit during a self-rescue, which is different, but not a problem.
The deck lines are well attached, even at the bow, which is sometimes a problem with other fast sea kayaks that have less attachments for the deck lines. Just in front of the cockpit the deck lines are placed at the widest point, providing enough leverage for your fellow paddler to aid and stabilise your kayak during an assisted rescue.
I also tested out how the Valkyrie rolls, and both forward and backward ending rolls work well, no problem at all; its stability makes it feel almost like the boat wants to roll back up by itself.
The thing I like the most on all P&H Sea Kayaks is the attention to detail; there is a compass recess (even other expensive composite boats lack this), and a small flat area just in front of the compass recess to install a sail mast foot. The optional bow mini hatch just in front of the cockpit is fully waterproof (a real improvement), can take a lot of your gear, and doesn’t get in the way of your legs inside the cockpit.
The deck cutaways along the cockpit are just perfect; I haven’t seen this on any composite boat, allowing you to put your strokes even closer to the boat and be more effective.
ThePADDLER 12 SPECS
Length: 540cm width: 54cm Internal cockpit length: 82cm Internal cockpit width: 41cm Weight: 25kg Weight range: 60-115kg
Have a look at the P&H website for more details: www.phseakayaks.com/kayaks.php?k ayak=Valkyrie
Have I talked about the handles yet? They are Pyranha’s whitewater grade, full-sized, drop-forged aluminium grab handles, so no loose toggles when paddling downwind anymore! If you still feel that you need toggles for safety reasons, P&H has left holes to allow you to install them. The grab handles are perfect for carrying your boat, being much more ergonomic and reliable than regular toggles, and I even think they look better too!
All hatches feature KajakSport covers, which are extremely dry and durable; I had no problems with damp hatches at all during testing.
BUILD QUALITY:
P&H Sea Kayaks are consistently improving the construction of their polyethylene boats, most recently developing a product they call CoreLite X; if you still have doubts about this material, let me point out a few things out for you: its weight is extremely close to that of a standard composite boat, it’s tougher, and the stiffness is very nearly the same. A few words about that stiffness; the foam-like bulkheads are way thicker than on a composite boat, and this helps creating the stiffness on such a long boat. I can imagine that some people might find this a waste of space, but I don’t mind. I’m also glad that P&H Sea Kayaks made a boat this unique and didn’t just produce a copy of an existing fast sea kayak.
The bow of the Valkyrie is lower than on most other fast sea kayaks, so it can take a bit less equipment,
but the advantage, as described above, is that the bow pierces through the waves and the kayak therefore doesn’t pitch very much.
P&H Sea Kayaks have taken their attention to detail down to the finish of the plastic; have a look at the P&H logo on the front deck! It’s made by blending matte and smooth finishes. The overall finish of the boat is excellent, as we are used to from P&H Sea Kayaks; no sharp edges, everything has its purpose and looks stunning.
CONCLUSION:
I pretty much slept in this boat during testing, getting to know it well (both pros and cons) and paddling quite a distance. It’s a specialist boat, not a boat for a beginning kayaker. The Valkyrie has entered the fast sea kayak scene with a bang as the first full-blooded polyethylene FSK on the market. It has everything on board to make bigger offshore trips, downwinders and normal day trips at a higher pace. The Connect seat in the Valkyrie is like having a sofa in a jet fighter, and the cockpit gives both comfort and a good connection to the boat. It also has a distinctive look, not to be mistaken for any other boat, with the deck cutaways along the cockpit and the tilted front and rear hatch.
Want to see the boat in action? We have an unwrapping video and an action video on our NORTHSEAKAYAK YouTube channel! Even better, try this boat out yourself!
ThePADDLER 14
Moonshine Eyewear sunglasses
www.moonshineeyewear.com By Dale Mears
UK family-run company, Moonshine Eyewear, are bringing affordable high-quality sunglasses to the masses.
Sunglasses, we all wear them, some people have numerous pairs, some break, some last, some are good for a season, some not. Sound familiar?
Moonshine eyewear have been manufacturing sunglasses but with a difference. Made from plastics but... recycled plastics. Why do this? Simple; we all know that there is a huge problem with plastics, mostly associated with the use of virgin plastics (sourced from crude oil), which do not break down therefore are here to stay. Most companies are still manufacturing in this way, however, some are starting to use recycled materials instead of virgin materials. This reducing materials left in landfill.
RECYCLED POLYCARBONATE
Moonshine eyewear manufacture their sunglasses from recycled polycarbonate, a strong and durable material used for protective machine guards and safety glasses and many other products.The advantage of using this material is that these sunglasses are practically indestructible. A quick trip to their Instagram page @moonshineeyewear and you can see videos of them being ran over by trucks, hit with a hammer and paddleboards being dropped on them and much more. What more could you want?
The glasses come in a range of styles and colour combinations. The advantage of being a smaller business is Moonshine can turn around some incredible small batch shades. Recently looking at releasing a range of glitter edition.
I had an early pair of the original remix and the newer remix 2.0 is a nicer frame styled similar to a frog skin but slightly different sizing. I own some Oakley frog skins which currently sit in a draw, the Moonshine frame is slightly wider, which sits much
more comfortable on my nose. That and a reduction in weight due to the material makes the Moonshine Remix 2.0 far more comfortable to wear on a daily basis. The frames also have pop off temples, so can be taken apart and reduced chance of damage of crushed or bent. The frames are guaranteed against accidental breakage so you know you’re covered.
POLARISED HD RESIN FUSION
The lenses on the Remix 2.0 are polarised HD resin fusion known as superflex. I am using a range now of these shades and currently have a FatStick edition, which was a limited run for the brand (something I’ll come onto in a bit), a special edition SR limited edition with a fire gold lens and a raw grey and blue featuring a blue mirrored lens – all excellent and scratch resistant! Both the Fatstick edition and the raw grey and blue have the mirrored blue lens, which is my personal favourite. I find the clarity in all kinds of light to be superb and really love them on the water but I think that’s down to personal preference as both lenses have the same tech.The FatSticks have a slightly older fusion lens and you can tell these have been improved in the newer models.
The lenses have been designed to work well around water which is why they have been taking the SUP world by storm but also becoming popular with anglers and many other disciplines and sports.
What I do think is commendable by this family run business is that Dave the owner will take back your old pairs of Moonshines to recycle and give you discount off a new pair! They really do have their business ethics in the right place!
Earlier I talked about my Fatstick edition, these were a limited run for the paddleboard manufacturer Fatstick SUP and Moonshine have the ability to produce custom designs for clubs and businesses at an affordable price point. So if your the owner of a company or organisation and are wanting your logo on some Moonshine sunglasses hit them up and get discussing your options. I run the Instagram Hub @standuppaddleuk a feature page for paddleboarding in the UK and am keen to release a custom run when our demand is there!
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ThePADDLER 16
Discovery Deck dry bag www.seallinegear.com By Richard Harpham www.canoetrails.co.uk
There are times where you feel ‘suited and booted’ with fine threads in place, striding out and enjoying the fresh air. The new colour dry bags are a work of art with beautiful tartan like (plaid) colours that are easy on the eye.
FEATURES
Choice of sizes 10L, 20L, 30L & 50L Choice of colours including the Plaid Integral carrying handle Shoulder strap duffel design Easy stow design Fully welded seams Purge AirTM valve
RATING
Durability Style Value for money Weight Look/feel
5 5 5 5 5
We tested the bags on the Yukon Expedition with them catching the eye of the whole team. One of the most obvious benefits is being able to spot the bag amongst a sea of kit.This makes them perfect for keeping important personal kit safe and dry. We used them as our ‘DS’, Deep Sh*t bags carrying all our essential kit.
The Sealine Discovery range of dry bags boast a wide range of features and are hard wearing to say the least.We have had some of the previous ones on longterm test and they have proved excellent.The bags feel solid and have multiple fixing points which make them perfect for motorbikes, canoes, kayaks and SUPs. Although a straightforward and common item in the world of paddlesport, it is brilliant to find a dry bag you can rely on that looks great too. Form and function in perfect harmony.
You can buy them online and find your local supplier by visiting www.seallinegear.com/ie/drybags/discovery-deck-dry-bag
Hyperion 32 UltraLight Sleeping Bag https://www.thermarest.com By Richard Harpham www.canoetrails.co.uk
FEATURES l l l l l l l
Ultralight – one of the lightest in its class Zoned insulation (70% top and sides and 30% back) Comfort fit with longer zip and ergonomic shape Responsible Down Standard Certification Synergy LinkTM connectors to connect your sleep system 900 fill Nikwax hydrophobic down Box baffled construction
RATING
Durability Style Value for money Weight Look/feel
5 5 4 5 5
Journeying by canoe, kayak or SUP is one of the greatest joys in life but there is the age old adage that ‘nothing weighs very much but everything weighs something’, so packing light becomes a skill and in some cases an art form. Equally in the outdoor hierarchy of needs, a warm and cosy place to get a good night’s sleep is important, if not critical (read John Hudson’s Survival Book – The UK’s Chief Military Instructor).
The Hyperion 32 Ultralight sleeping bag is well designed with a host of great features. Primarily it feels cosy and inviting with room to turn over.There are three sizes: small (168cm), Regular (183cm) and (Long 198cm), which weigh just 0.44kg, 0.46kg and 0.52Kg respectively.The bag is rated to 5C/41F at Comfort; 0C/32F at Limit and -15C/5C at Extreme. For me personally I am also delighted that the Hyperion features Hydrophobic Nikwax Down, which is ethically
sourced. Given that more of the world is waking up to the need to be more sustainable (especially outdoor types) this has to be the standard. Other nifty features include a longer zip and a connector system allowing the bag to be attached to your camp mat. On expeditions where you may be sleeping on a storm beach, this is a useful addition to avoid that annoying situation where you and your camp mat are separated with stones in your back, like a modern take on the Princess and the Pea! The Hyperion comes with a storage sack and compression stuff sack and really does compress down to the size of a rugby ball. In summary this is a great sleeping bag that ticks all the boxes with comfort, value for money and a strong ethical streak. Buy them online or find your local supplier by visiting: www.thermarest.com/ie/sleeping-bags/hyperion32#product-info
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Restube personal floatation https://lyon.co.uk By Tez Plavenieks
I tested Restube’s personal floatation device – first generation – back in the day. At that point the issue of personal floatation, or the lack of it within SUP, was just coming to the fore. Fast forward and following a few tragic incidents, close calls and near misses it’s pretty much a talking point and top of many paddler’s agendas, along with leash connections. These days, Restube offer a variety of devices to suit multiple watery scenarios.
The overriding factor with Restube is that you do actually need to be conscious for it to work. As you have to pull a chord, that in turn fires a Co2 canister causing the tube element to inflate, therefore, it won’t
work if you’re not awake. So it’s more a confidence boosting product and one that comes into its own if you and your craft are separated.
As an addition it’s worth carrying a method of communication and position identification, such as a mobile phone or VHF. Restube’s handy, and discreet hip pouch has just enough room for the former and smaller version of the latter. It can then be fitted around your waist and forgotten about until needed.
If paddlers need to inflate, it’s simply a case of yanking the pull chord and the tube doing the rest. Being extremely efficient at keeping your head above water we found it a good last resort if your operated from your craft.You’ll still need to be mobile, and kick with your feet, but it certainly makes for less tiring work until help arrives. Back on land it’s then a case of replacing the Co2 capsule, folding the tube back up and repositioning within its pouch.
In most cases, with prior planning and preparation, nothing untoward will befall paddlers who are safety conscious. For additional peace of mind, however, you have Restube. A well designed product that’s both discreet and functional. It’ll do the job of keeping you afloat while waiting for help but it’s also worth combining with a means of contacting emergency services. If you’ve been looking for a means of increasing your paddle session safety then Restube will no doubt fit the bill. Price: Basic - £60.00; Classic - £72.00; Swim - £86.50; Sports - £95.00; PFD - £96.00
https://youtu.be/dswgPWfcihs
Info: https://lyon.co.uk/restube-uk-stockists
protect yourself from the elements www.liquidsports.co.uk
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Neil Phelan
T h e T r Y W e r Y N 19-21st July 2019 Words and Photos: Phil Bulkeley The Tryweryn Festival is a fun-filled weekend held at the National White Water Centre, Canolfan Tryweryn. On the Saturday I was up bright and early for a road trip to the festival, but not with a kayak! I arrived at the start of the buzz of excitement for the weekend’s event and word seemed to get round quite quickly that I was on the river bank as the adventurous started to display their expertise in the Grave Yard section of the river.
Plenty of humorous banter emerged between those of you on the water and me on the river bank.Yes, you guessed it was me hiding behind the lens, as you started your descent towards Bala. Hopefully you all enjoyed it as much as I did.
THANKS TO: l l l l l
The National White Water Centre. Sam Beasley (event organiser). Manon’s Cafe. Event sponsors. Special thanks to Peter for the opportunity to work alongside the team at the Paddler magazine – it has been an absolute pleasure.
My name is Phil Bulkeley, residing in North Wales – I have an ever growing passion for photography. White water kayaking being one of my favourite subjects.
My contact details: e-mail: philipbulkeley@outlook.com or 07399 491447 Aisling McCarthy
Ailbhe Tuohy
Liam Martin
Jacqui Tildesley
FESTIVAL Nick Yates
Tim Thomas
Nigel Green
David Woolsey
Phil Miller
Karen O’Sullivan
Keith O’Brien
RIVER
WRAP
PATENT PENDING
VEST SIZED
POCKETS
t: +44 1629 732611 e:: info@peakuk.com w: www.peakuk.com
LADIES: L10/12 & 14/16
OCEAN
WRAP LADIES &
MENS
ZIP STYLE
FITTING
MENS: LXL & XXL Ute Heppke & Kerry Old eld. Image: Pete Astles.
An interview with… Sal Montgomery
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MIGHTY The
MONTY
Interview: Peter Tranter Photos: Sal Montgomery, Matt Blackwell, Iain McConnell, Aapo Halonen, Jake Holland, Dmitry Ermolov, Georgina Preston, Eli Castleberry, Erin Bastian and Dominic Glur.
Over the years we’ve featured Sal in quite a few expeditions from Russia to Chile – from white water to salt water. So we thought, in light of her recent TV fame in the ‘The last unrun river of Bhutan’, to catch up with Sal to hear what she thinks about this and that. So, over to one of the most popular kayakers out there and an inspiration to women everywhere…
Sal testing the Pyranha R9 II on the Tryweryn, North Wales Photo: Iain McConnell (www.turniptowers.co.uk)
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ThePADDLER 26 WHEN DID YOU FIRST START KAYAKING?
Sal making another pack of cookies disappear after a hot hike into the 22 Teacups section of the Rio Claro, Chile. Photo: Eli Castleberry
I’d tried various watersports whilst away on Scout camp when I was younger and had loved every second of it, but it wasn’t until about ten years ago that I found out you could actually do things like kayaking all the time – you didn’t even have to be a Scout! Needless to say, I got pretty hooked on it!
YOU’VE RECENTLY BECOME A TV PERSONALITY, HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED WITH,‘THE LAST UNRUN RIVER OF BHUTAN’?
I’d just returned from a pretty amazing paddling season in South America, but had unfortunately sustained a serious shoulder injury during that time. I was back in the UK waiting for scan results and to find out if I was going to need surgery or not when I received a vague, crackly phone call from India. It was Daz Clarkson-King, with some exciting news! Over the next couple of weeks I had shoulder reconstruction, followed by intense rehabilitation, hoping that I could be ready in time for what would be a great adventure.
TELL US ABOUT ONE STAND OUT MOMENT IN BHUTAN?
When we finished our river descent and spent several hours scrambling up difficult, steep terrain with the entirety of the crew’s gear, a local family invited us in to their home. We sat on mats on the floor, around a cosy wood burning stove and feasted on some delicious hot tea and a traditional meal (as well as some questionable home-brewed spirit that had come from a jerry can). Although weary, everyone’s spirits were high. Especially when the ladies of the house, excitedly pulled us up and began singing local songs. We were all linked hand by hand in a circle around the room, as they tried to teach us their dance.
BEFORE WE START – FORTHOSE WHO HAVE BEEN LIVING ON MARS, JUST LET OUR READERS KNOW A LITTLE ABOUT YOURSELF, BACKGROUND, ETC. My name’s Sal! I’m an outdoorsy type and am happiest when out adventuring with friends, although I do like the odd solo adventure too. When I’m not on the river, I can usually be found playing on the sea or in the mountains.
After a tough few days, everyone looked relaxed, happy and like they were having a lot of fun. It felt like a celebration, not only of completing our expedition but also of the bond that a small group of people had made in such a short time. These people, who I hadn’t known prior to the trip, had become very special to me and now felt like family. In that moment I felt incredibly appreciative.
A must watch @: https://uktvplay.uktv.co.uk/shows/expedition-withsteve-backshall/watch-online/6062262839001
https://salmontgomery.com Inchree Waterfalls, Glen Righ, Scotland Photo: Matt Blackwell www.facebook.com/mattblackwell
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WHAT TYPE OF TRAINING DO YOU UNDERTAKE FOR EXPEDITIONS?
I like to feel strong, with a decent amount of fitness before a big trip. Some days out on the river can be pretty full on, as well as long, so I figure the fitter and stronger I can be, then the longer I can continue working at a good level and hopefully make less mistakes due to tiredness. Wild camp on multi-day trip in Russia
YOU MOTIVATE SO MANY PADDLERS BUT WHO MOTIVATES YOU?
First of all – thank you! It sounds corny, but I’m motivated to improve my personal abilities whenever I’m on the water with friends who are more skilled than me. In particular, my two friends Casey Bryant Jones and Eli Castleberry always look super smooth and stylish on the river, so I usually try to paddle more like them (with mixed success!).
HAVE YOU EVER BEEN SCARED AND IF NOT – WHAT WOULD IT TAKE?
Happy paddlers after a full-on few days in Altai, Siberia
I strongly believe a little bit of nervousness is essential for keeping you focused and on the ball. However, if you’re absolutely terrified, so much so that you can’t focus on the task, then you should probably walk that one!
IF YOU COULD HEAD ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD TO PADDLE,WHERE WOULD IT BE AND WHAT APPEALS ABOUT THAT LOCATION?
Too many places! At the moment a lot of my interest is in exploring the lesser known locations, heading off the beaten track and having a real adventure.
Sunny days whilst paddling around Menorca
WHAT IS THE ONE PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO SOMEBODY THINKING OF PACKING IT ALL IN TO BECOME AN ADVENTURER?
Remember why you’re doing what you’re doing and make sure it’s for the right reasons.
WHEN PREPARING FOR A MULTI-DAY EXPEDITION IN CHALLENGING CONDITIONS – WHAT ARE THE QUALITIES YOU LOOK FOR IN A FELLOW TEAM MATE KAYAKER?
It’s essential that everyone is able to work together and will naturally look out for one another. Things don’t always go to plan and you need to be with people that are able to adapt, stay cool and have your back. You’re also going to be spending a lot of time together, so fun, enthusiastic, have a sense of humour and being up for a bit of banter is essential!
WHAT’S THE MOST ENJOYABLE ENCOUNTER WITH WILDLIFE THAT YOU’VE HAD WHILST PADDLING?
Hiding from the strong sun mid-heat wave in Russia. Photo: Jake Holland
Although they managed to stay well hidden, we did spot many traces of bears and tigers on the river banks whilst out in Bhutan. In fact, one of our camps had several fresh tiger prints and we even found half of the Himalayan mountain goat it had been feeding on, not too far from my tent the next morning!
https://salmontgomery.com
Tucking up on the Blanco waterfall, Chile. Photo: Eli Castleberry
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DESCRIBE WHAT’S IT LIKE BEING A PART OF THE PYRANHA TEAM?
Awesome! Not that long ago it seemed like there wasn’t a huge amount of choice for smaller paddlers, but now there seems to be loads! And they’re actually really good boats! In particular I’m loving the 9RII and the Ripper (of course!). Pyranha are also just a great company to be involved with, they’ve been super supportive with allowing me try out a range of designs and are just cool, fun guys to go paddling with!
HOW’S THE SHOULDER HOLDING UP NOW?
Really well thanks! My surgeon did an amazing job! I didn’t have a huge amount of time between coming out of the sling and going to Bhutan, so it was pretty intensive rehab but luckily all the work paid off and I haven’t had any big problems since.
WHAT PROJECTS ARE YOU CURRENTLY WORKING ON?
I’ve just returned from a month in Africa, so am currently spending a bit of time catching up with friends and family (as well as procrastinating from quite a substantial amount of life admin!), and will then start planning the next adventure!
ARE THERE ANY ISSUES THAT STOPS YOU SLEEPING AT NIGHT?
Jet-lag! Haha, only joking. Like most outdoor enthusiasts, the subject of our planet’s future is extremely concerning. The effects we are having on our own habitat is saddening and terrifying. What we consider everyday routines, is threatening wildlife, nature and even our own existence. It’s great to see so many people actively trying to make effective changes, and I myself am trying to help by changing my ways and putting plans together for future projects. Watch this space…
WHAT DO YOU DO TO RELAX?
After a big trip, I love going for a nice long run in the countryside, followed by a hot shower and a big mug of coffee and a tasty breakfast, whilst reading or doing a bit of writing. That would probably be my ideal ‘down day’.
WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 20 YEARS?
I have no idea! As of yet I haven’t even made a plan for tomorrow!
Exploring interesting rock formations in Menorca. Photo: Erin Bastian, Evoke Adventure
Ski touring in Chamonix, France. Photo: Erin Bastian
Big flows on the Chuya, Russia. Photo: Dmitry Ermolov
https://salmontgomery.com
Summer fun with buddies in the UK. Photo: Georgie Preston
Quickies…
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Lapping the ‘portage’ Rapid Mariman on the Rio Trancura, Chile. Photo: Dominic Glur
If you could paddle with anyone in the world dead or alive who would it be? My friends!
Pick two celebrities to be your parents… David Attenborough and Mary Berry (adventures and cakes)….although my own parents are pretty cool! Which famous person would you most like to see play you in a film? Someone fun, positive and a bit crazy! Are you a bathroom/shower singer and if so what do you sing? Yes for sure! Vance Joy- Riptide. Facebook or Twitter? Facebook.. I don’t really understand Twitter!
An ideal night out for you is? It would involve close friends, a fire, lots of food and a clear sky full of stars. What one luxury item would you take with you on a desert island? A notepad and pen (and as much chocolate as I could physically carry). What would I find in your fridge right now? Blueberries and avocados. If we came to your house for dinner, what would you prepare for us? Either a veggie thai red curry or a tonne of roasted veggies and potatoes. What’s the most boring question you are often asked? I’m often asked how I fund my adventures and lifestyle. To which the answer is always the same.. I work hard, so that I can play hard and firmly believe that adventures don’t need to be extravagant to be incredible. We are extremely lucky that nature’s playground is free for everyone to enjoy and it’s up to us how we choose to do so. That’s pretty awesome if you ask me! If you could be a superhero for one day, what superpower would you choose and why? To fly! Think of all the adventures you could scout out! And it would just be super fun!
Favourite sport’s team? Nottingham Panthers (Ice Hockey). Favourite film? Pretty much any classic chic-flic! Who are your kayaking buddies? Two of my favourite people to paddle with are Casey and Eli. They’re super fun, encouraging and supportive, as well as incredible paddlers (I must also give a shout out to Chivs, Joe, Brandon and Kev, aka the East Lynn crew!). What three words describe you? To quote my friend Casey – ‘Like. A. Toddler’ Any final shout outs? Too many! In particular I would like to thank Steve Backshall, Darren Clarkson-King and Sanna Handslip for taking a chance on me, despite having just had shoulder surgery. In addition to these legends, I would also like to add the rest of our amazing team – Aldo, Pringle, Bri, Graham and Nick, for such an incredible and extremely special trip.
Huge thanks Sal for taking the time out for this.
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An interview with‌ Darren Clarkson-King
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DESCEND Driven to
Interview: Peter Tranter Photos: Darren Clarkson King, George Younger and Ian Jones
When looking for an experienced guide to lead a group of paddlers making a first descent down an Himalayan river for his documentary, Steve Backshall naturally got in touch with Darren Clarkson-King, the only paddler to have paddled all the rivers from Everest and K2. Over a coffee at Heathrow, a plan was formulated for Daz to go to Bhutan and to look over the whole country to find an unrun river and to bring a whole team together that would be perfect for the documentary. The Paddler caught up with Darren in his hectic schedule to ask a few questions‌
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Darren Clarkson-King on big volume Zanskar Photo: George Younger
ThePADDLER 36 WHAT GOTYOU HOOKED ON HIMALAYAN KAYAKING SPECIFICALLY?
It really is hard to say. Over twenty years ago I took a study break and worked as a safety kayaker and raft guide in Norway.Then after some post-graduate study, I went to Nepal ‘on a gap’ few months. From early on I was running first descents and I have enjoyed exploring across the Himalayas. Nepal is a second home, but Ladakh and Bhutan are a close behind. Let’s not forget the time in Tibet and Pakistan... but thats another story.
WHERE AND WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST PADDLE AND YOUR FIRST DESCENT IN THE HIMALAYAS?
My first Himalayan paddle was the Sun Kosi and then Balephi in Nepal – all these years later I still love these runs. I remember we stayed in a small tea house at the confluence. A Chicken laid an egg on my jacket. Well, that was a good breakfast!
FIRST HIMALAYAN 1ST DESCENT?
The solo journey I took on the Budhi Ganga – a tributary of a tributary of the Karnali in the wild west.
WHAT WOULD BEYOUR ULTIMATE ACHIEVEMENT?
Really, just to keep doing what I am doing now. Showing people the amazing culture of the Himalayas. Riding classic motorbikes, running classic rivers and exploring.
ONE FAVOURITE RIVER AND WHY?
In the Himalayas, I am always drawn back to the Tsarap Chu in Ladakh, think I have done more runs than anyone else, more solo trips, the fastest descent and so much more. The Sun Kosi in Nepal still warms my soul. I love the white beaches and over the years seeing the village kids grow old and have families.
APART FROM EXTREME KAYAKING – ANY OTHER AREAS OF PADDLING YOU WOULD LIKE TO EXPLORE?
I’m really keen on gear, function and design – perhaps one day I will explore that....
Taking a brief rest at the bottom of the main section of Tsarap Chu. Photo. Ian Jones
http://purelandexpeditions.com
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ThePAddler
Darren’s take on theTsarap Chu... “I know this river – it is part of me, the twists and turns and the history run through my blood.This not so insignificant river, is a small tributary, of a tributary of the sacred Indus. Still free flowing in Little Tibet, in Zanskar, in the north of India.The journey from Sarchu, the mystery, the ominous flow below.
“Flat and braided, flowing slow and soft, the Tsarap Chu gently makes its way to the enclosed canyon walls. At times no more than five-foot wide.The constriction forcing the water to dance and parade its raw power like no place I know.
“In places the canyon opens up, abandoned villages cling as wasted spaces of existence, before the walls close back and the river has no choice but to roar again. Dropping from bend to bend, cascade after cascade. Once a journey starts on this river – once you are part of this landscape, nothing matters. It is not a river that you can walk out of with ease.
“Should you not like the situation, you have no choice but to deal with whatever comes – it’s not a river where you can pause for breath, settle and feel relaxed.The Tsarap Chu encompasses everything – all your ingrained skills and thoughts become tied to the moment.Tied to each stoke. For your life depends on it. For 220km this highaltitude river jostles and jives. Kicks and bucks. It either kills your spirit or makes you crave more.”
Darren made this descent in 20 hour and 50 minutes with George Younger, along with audacious solo expeditions in a day and a half. Darren is a firm believer in the premise that ‘Adventure should not be sanitised’.
Main photo:Tsarap Chu. George Younger (above) and Darren Clarkson-King (right) with legs out floating into the lake. Photo: Ian Jones
Along with SAl And ‘Pringle’, you’ve recently become A tv PerSonAlity, how did you get involved with,‘the lASt unrun river of bhutAn’?
I was enroute to Chile from Nepal and a friend had shared a tweet from Steve Backshall to me, so I met Steve just outside Heathrow between my connecting flights. We talked over a cup of coffee. I had some ideas for Bhutan first descents, then went back out a few months later to Bhutan and did a recce, which covered the whole of the country. We chose the Chamkar Chu – a jewel of a river, that proved all we needed.The last true unrun river. Once the river was found, we put a team in place. Everything from cooks to drivers, paddlers to film crew. It was an exciting, mammoth task.
tell uS About one StAnd out moment in bhutAn?
It was great watching Steve progress, it was a unique trip and it was one of the most stressful I have ever done! In all my expeditions, deep gorges and first descents, I have always felt it’s just a personal
WHAT ARE THE QUALITIES YOU LOOK FOR IN A FELLOW TEAM MATE KAYAKER? The ability to understand my sense of humour!
WHAT RIVERS WOULD BE ON YOUR BUCKET LIST?
I would love to return to the Alsek, Stikine and one last run on the Zanskar.The Altai area in Russia is also calling…
http://purelandexpeditions.com
pressure – even when I paddle with my long-term expedition partner, Crazy Dave.This time it felt greater, a crew that depended on my recce – and all that these things entail. It was a pressure built in layers. Even when you stripped one back, more kept coming. I don't think I really relaxed until we got on the flights home.
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Zanskar waterfall. Photo: George Younger
WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN YOU’RE NOT KAYAKING?
I enjoy treks, but kayaking and running a business fills my time, oh and writing guidebooks!
HOW DO YOU PROMOTE ECOTOURISM IN THE HIMALAYAS?
I have been working with the tourism boards in Malabar, Bhutan and Ladakh for some time on this matter – Ecotourism is a world that gets thrown about lots… but simply a base motto should be along the lines of, “Promote low impact, respect culture, assess need.”
DO YOU SEE ANY FIRST-HAND EFFECT OF CLIMATE CHANGE IN THE HIMALAYAS?
Ladakh is seeing huge seasonal changes, a real reminder of the climate crisis. Ladakh is seeing some seasons without snowfall (winter) and rain in the summer Ladakh in the past has not had this.
ARE THERE ANY ISSUES THAT STOPS YOU SLEEPING AT NIGHT?
Bed bugs...seriously I do worry about global issues, and what can be done – just don't think its a discussion point for a light read. On long multiday river trips, I worry about the kilometres I need to make before the take out.
ANY FINAL SHOUT OUTS?
I couldn't do what I do with Andrea, she is the glue that holds my personal plans and Pure Land Expeditions together. Wavesport, System X and HF have also been amazing supporters.
Zanskar construction rapid with Ian Jones and Darren. Photo: George Younger
The team: Darren Clarkson-King, George Younger and Ian Jones
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InformatIon
Bhutan BY ANDREA CLARKSON-KING
‘Unique’ is very much an over used word in travel writing, but for Bhutan, it’s justifiable. A green and mountainous country in the Himalayas, it’s the only Buddhist kingdom in the world. Governed by monks, politicians and the countries much loved royal family, the harmony and happiness is immediately apparent as soon as you land at the pristine and quiet airport.
www.bhutan.travel
Bhutan has a small population, spread out over breathtakingly beautiful valleys and soaring mountains.the people farm and cultivate the lower fields and fiercely protect the upper mountains, which are sacred. While many live an almost medieval existence in remote farms, the strong https://goo.gl/maps/wwZfhRdfNEEJ6G1q6 traditional Bhutanese culture runs through every subject, as does their faith and devotion to Buddhism.
Everywhere you go in Bhutan you find Buddhist dzongs, ancient fortresses where the year long calendar of festivals and ceremonies are honoured by the monks and attended by everyone. the homes and businesses are all richly decorated with traditional Bhutanese iconography and paintings.the educated and quietly polite people enjoy wearing their traditional dress, as well as spending a lot of time perfecting their archery skills – another beloved pastime that the Bhutanese are passionate about. Bhutan is a quiet and peaceful country, although when it has to it can and has defended itself from invasion. modern Bhutan invites visitors on its own terms, with an ethos of high cost low impact deterring backpackers and people wanting to party. Guests are made very welcome, while making sure that all respect the cleanliness (very noticeable) and local customs. It’s a very different experience to travelling anywhere else in the Himalayas.
travelling across Bhutan’s vast open spaces and uncluttered roads seems pure and authentic in ways that are fast being eroded elsewhere in Himalayan asia by mass tourism.the rivers of Bhutan are clean, and offer a wide variety from float trips to intimidating class 5. Proving time and again that kayaking and rafting is world-class.
WEATHER: Southern Bhutan has a hot and humid subtropical climate that is fairly unchanging throughout the year. temperatures can vary between 15-30 degrees Celsius (59- 86 degrees fahrenheit). In the Central parts of the country which consists of temperate and deciduous forests, the climate is more seasonal with warm summers and cool and dry winters. In the far northern reaches of the kingdom, the weather is much colder during winter. mountain peaks are perpetually covered in snow and lower parts are still cool in summer owing to the high altitude terrain.
GEOGRAPHY: the kingdom of Bhutan lies deep in the eastern Himalayas. It is surrounded by the tibet autonomous region (tar) of China to the north, and the Indian territories of assam and West Bengal to the south, arunachal Pradesh to the east and Sikkim to the west. the tiny landlocked kingdom has a total area of 46,500 km² and spreads between meridians 89°E and 93°E, and latitudes 27°n and 29°n.
FOOD: the most distinctive characteristic of Bhutanese cuisine is its spiciness. Chillies are an essential part of nearly every dish and are considered so important that most Bhutanese people would not enjoy a meal that was not spicy. rice forms the main body of most Bhutanese meals. It is accompanied by one or two side dishes consisting of meat or vegetables.
ENVIRONMENT: Bhutan’s pristine environment, with high rugged mountains and deep valleys, offers ecosystems that are both rich and diverse. the government has enacted a law that shall maintain at least 60% of its forest cover for all times. today, 80.89% of the total land area of Bhutan is under forest cover and 51.40% (16,396.4 sq.km) of the land area falls under protected areas comprising of 10 national parks and sanctuaries.
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R AY
G O O D W I N ’ S
Photo: Last morning to Dawson
YUKON
B I G
S A L M O N
A N D
Photos: Ray Goodwin and Patrick McCormack
It was an email from Graham that got the ball rolling. I have paddled with Graham for years including expeditions on the Spey and as far afield as the Bloodvein. “Would you be interested in doing theYukon?” An enthusiastic “Yep” was my response.This was one of the rivers on my tick list.
A plan started evolving and Graham suggest starting on the Big Salmon before joining the Yukon above Carmacks. Patrick McCormack from the Republic of Ireland joined us and soon after we had Elaine (Shooter) Alexander from Northern Ireland to complete the team. We were allowing eight days on the Big Salmon and down to Carmacks on the Yukon and a further eight down to Dawson.
We had a couple of days in Whitehorse to get ourselves sorted before the trip. For me it was unusual to be planning a multi-day trip with no portages but this meant a trip to the supermarket rather than the usual dehydrated stuff. We were to end up with four barrels of food to last us some sixteen days. At least we were only going to lug these from boat to camp and back again.
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Up North Adventures
Right hand channel on Five Finger Rapid Photo: Patrick McCormack
were sorting the kit and shuttles for us and so with an early breakfast we were on our drive to Quiet Lake, which was a couple of hours on tarmac and then on to a gravel road for the last two. It was mid-afternoon before we could pack and launch determined to get a couple of hours in.
Cloud was building as we paddled along a still lake. Camp spots were almost non-existent and so we grabbed a spot between the forest road and the lake. Having just set up we could hear thunder in the mid distance. Quickly we got a tarp up to provide a shelter for cooking. Within minutes there were large waves topped in white rolling down the lake. Close inshore would have been uncomfortable but out in the middle… The squall had seemingly come out of nowhere. It is a recurrent warning out here that you should avoid the middle of large lakes and truthfully although I have paddled in far stronger winds and in even more violent squalls, I have seldom seen them come out of ‘nowhere’ like here.
The morning saw us quickly on the way along the lake. We passed the end of the track and its campground and a couple of miles of fast flowing river dropped us into Sandy Lake. A good camp spot was taken and we started settling into a routine. A gravity fed water filter was hung in the trees, tents set up and wood was collected with Graham splitting it down for easy use. Patrick, he should have been a chief, was busy organising the rest us for prep duties – a pattern was being set. Then last thing the barrels and all things attractive to bears were walked some distance from camp. All this hanging of stuff in trees becomes a bit academic when you are travelling through a forest dominated by black spruce, as there is a distinct lack of branches to throw ropes over.
BIG SALMON LAKE
Next day we had another section of river to take us down to Big Salmon Lake. It was here we had out first moose encounter as a mother and calf quickly trotted back into the trees. More was to come as we entered Big Salmon Lake, a mother and calf were swimming the wide mouth of the river. The mother occasionally getting a footing while the calf gamely swam along behind. We gave these two a very wide berth to avoid upsetting an already nervous mother.
Big Salmon Lake was over in few hours and we were in the river. It was relatively narrow, winding with a pebble bottom – the map and guide had fooled me. I normally associate meanders and oxbow lakes with
Beaver. Photo: Patrick McCormack
slow moving lowland rivers, this was not the case here. The river was dropping fast and so we were speeding along. No rapids at all but a real need to manoeuvre quickly when necessary, where over hanging trees, log jams and strainers were normal. With this team it wasn’t a problem but it wasn’t to be underestimated. At one point was a cut through where the river had done a massive loop. Unfortunately, the cut through was blocked by a wide and precarious log jam, so we had a 15-minute paddle around the loop to progress just ten metres.
Campsites were plentiful and good and on those first days we were living off of fresh food. Patrick had even bought a small cool bag to keep cheese and ham longer.
THE CHINOOK SALMON
Camps and river kept coming. The speed didn’t relent but things got wider so it was easy to avoid. We started spotting eagles now, occasionally flying but more often perched at the very top of a tree. The Big Salmon is aptly named as it is the spawning ground for the Chinook Salmon. These can grow up to 50 kilos in weight! Alas we were too early in the season and had to content ourselves with pike and trout. I did reasonably well with the trout with a couple of really good-sized ones. At one of the camps I got one small one, which I returned and then a reasonable one, a good little appetizer for dinner. I gutted it and removed head and tail and then leaving it on the river bank walked back into camp to get my camera. As I walked back onto the beach, I was just in time to see a bird fly off with it (I am sure it was a seagull), so at least someone got fed that night. The biggest catch of the trip was the Shooter’s pike, I reasoned that at least I had caught more.
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Big Salmon Beaver dam
Sand storm
Photo: Patrick McCormack
As the days went on we travelled through this post glacial landscape with the river cutting through glacial till. At one point an Esker, a ridge line of glacial debris, paralleled the river. The guide book recommended a walk up onto it but we couldn’t spot a route through the dense forest. All the while there were high mountains, on both flanks that spoke of other adventures to be had.
It was only after the trip a friend pointed out that they had found the tiniest specks of gold in their water filters. It was something that had not occurred to us but this was a landscape that in the past had been dug, panned and dredged for gold. All traces of this had disappeared back into the forest.
The banks got higher and occasionally we saw heavily eroded sections of softer material. The resulting gullies, ridges and towers being known as hoodoos.
With a few bumper sections we sped our way down into the Yukon. In seven days we had not seen another soul but the Yukon was to be a culture shock.
THE YUKON – AN EGALITARIAN RIVER
We had gone from a narrow (ish) and intimate river into the broad expanses of one of world’s great rivers. A river steeped in the history of the first nations and of the gold rushes. It is still a working river with a small number of huge barges moving material to gold workings in side valleys. It is impressive to see the barges push upstream against the current much as the stern wheeled paddle steamers once did. Going downstream they travel at great speed. Now we were seeing other paddlers, so we were no longer having
an exclusive experience and I for one found it unsettling. Remains of old equipment and dredges could be spotted occasionally but wildlife was now at a distance in the wide reaches.
A thin white band of material seemed to mark every bank now. It lay a metre or so below the surface. A little delving in the guide book sorted that one: it was from a huge volcanic eruption in 750 AD which blanketed the area. One thicker deposit was quite distinct and was known as Sam McGee’s Ashes from Robert Service’s poem, ‘The Cremation of Sam McGee,’
After a day or so we reached the ‘Coal Mine’ campground and yes, there was a coal mine here back in the days of the stern wheelers. Some was used for heating but a few of the steamers were converted to run on coal. Not a successful experiment as it was far easier to supply timber from the very many woodyard along the course of the river. The camp was welcoming with showers and a counter service for hot food.
Just before the campsite we had passed the, to us, the weirdest of wooden rafts, it had a railing all the way around, table and chairs as well as storage and a flat roof over it all. It too joined us at the campsite and that night the flat roof became a sleeping platform for the two old adventurers. They were heading all the way down the 1,000 miles to the Bering Sea.
This was a meeting point for many heading the 450 miles from Whitehorse to Dawson and our first sight of a few folk we would keep bumping into over the next days. We pitched up next to a fella that had canoed from Whitehorse and was finishing here: he regaled us with stories of his days as a float plane pilot
The Big Salmon is aptly named as it is the spawning ground for the Chinook Salmon, which can grow up to 50 kilos in weight!
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ThePADDLER 50 and how now he was collecting his home/camper van and was on his way up to Alaska. The Yukon trip was just a bit of reminiscing for him.
CARMACKS
We walked the three kilometres into Carmacks for a meal and to check out the shop there. It was blisteringly hot, so we decided to shop the next morning on our way past on the river. The store was good, if a little expensive being so far out, we could have easily stocked for the second half of the trip there. As it was, we added more fresh food.
The problem was now that we had too much time and so we had to instigate a lazier regime. No rush in the morning and after only five hours on the water we would start looking for the next camp. The river was rushing along at some 6-8 kilometres per hour. No wonder so many novices travel this river. We kept meeting up with a German who was on his first ever canoe trip. He was solo in a 16-foot boat and knew only how to steer with the most basic of rudders. We met him again after Five Finger rapid and I asked him if had knelt for stability; he looked quizzically at me; he had never heard of kneeling in a canoe! My appreciation of this river was now changing, it was truly a river for everyone.
We four folk with massive experience between us and finding the whole thing technically easy and yet there were all these others having big personal adventures. There was a large extended family running it in sea kayaks, some with a depth of experience but there were novices in the party. Then the teacher from Ottawa that had bought a pack raft, tried it on his local river and then set off for 18 days on the Yukon solo. This was truly, a river for all.
FIVER FINGER RAPID
A couple of days below Carmacks is the renowned Fiver Finger Rapid. Five channels separated by large blocky islands of conglomerate. This could have been Photo: Patrick McCormack
the site of a river crossing for a proposed railway that was never to be built, with the islands acting as natural piers. Anyway, we followed all the advice and took the right-hand channel. It was easy enough at this water level and a very straight forward grade 1.
Patrick and I turned back into the eddies below and went for a little explore of the shoots – you can’t keep a good white water paddler down.The only interesting moment came when we hit an area of boils below the main channel. Instinctively and simultaneously we both went for a brace, which merited a momentary giggle. If anything, Rink Rapid, which followed immediately was bumpier on the day.
Looking through the excellent guide, it was amazing to see the pictures of stern wheelers making their way up this channel. There was even a cable so they could use a winch as assistance. Rocks and reefs had been blasted to make the channel safer, even so boats and lives had been lost.
We started settling back and chilling out. The days were easy, went fast and the scenery passed quickly. The only issue being smoke blowing up river from a fire just east of the river and others as far away as Alaska, meaning the air quality was poor. We were to hear afterwards that a complete fire ban had been put into effect throughout the Yukon. However, we were unaware and continued to cook on very small wood fires. We were very cautious and were even dousing them immediately after cooking.
FORT SELKIRK
Fort Selkirk is an impressive historical site on the banks of the river. First built in 1848 it only lasted four years before the local Chilkat people looted and burnt it down. They regarded the Hudson Bay Company as competition and that theirs was a long established trade monopoly between the coast and interior. It wasn’t until the 1880s that it was re-built. It’s an impressive set of wooden buildings and well worth spending time exploring – you can even camp there.
Photo: Patrick McCormack
My appreciation of this river was now changing, it was truly a river for everyone.
A double decker raft, its dinghy and a sea kayak group
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ThePADDLER 52 Whilst we were exploring a helicopter was shuttling firefighters in. All around lay kilometres of hose leading to sprinkler systems being set up on the top of every building. Window seals were covered with a layer of fine gravel to prevent blown sparks from catching wood aflame. The preservation of the site was being taken very seriously.
PARTNER SWAPPING
Another day or so and we got back into cleaner air and we continued our swaps of paddling partners. A chance to chew the fat and explore the adventures of the others in the party. Graham, a construction engineer with his tales of big projects; Shooter and her solo sea kayak trip around Ireland; Patrick and his adventures by any form of paddle craft. Politics, life and anything else that took the fancy as well as long periods of silence and introspection. I think we talked more in the boat than we ever did in camp.
The White River joined us and added volume and a thick white sediment to the Yukon. From then on, we could only get water from side streams. Our one attempt at using the river water clogged the filters within minutes.
Out penultimate camp was on a low island/gravel/ sand bar – a pleasant enough spot. We had cooked and sorted and were walking the barrels out onto an exposed spit of sand. Thunder was beginning to rumble in the distance. Graham was out there when the wind struck again out of nowhere. We could barely see him through the sandstorm and he quickly retreated back to us. The old school room Fort Selkirk. Patrick not doing so well on the questions
FINAL CAMP
The scenery remained big with a thick bed of basalt lining the eastern bank for some time. However, we eventually, slowed down and had a final camp. A delve through barrels for the last of the treats and an early start for breakfast in Dawson.
Ray Goodwin’s website: www.RayGoodwin.com Ray’s YouTube Channel is: www.youtube.com/c/RayGoodwinCanoe Patrick McCormack’s website: www.pureadventure.ie Outfitter: https://upnorthadventures.com
Welsh Canoe Symposium 23-25th October 2019 at Bala.
www.raygoodwin.com/ open-canoe-symposium
This was the site of the Klondike gold rush of the 1890s, where over 100,000 prospectors had rushed to the area.
The get out was alongside an old stern wheeler now high and dry as a museum. We were in no hurry. A chance for breakfast and a little explore. Big Salmon River
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ICE…
At the edge of
WORLD and the
Words and photos: Adriana Eyzaguirre It was two years ago sitting in my mum’s kitchen table in Chile emailing people back in the UK about the possibility of putting together a stunning adventure. From there the idea of a trip to Greenland started to take shape. My immediate thought was we will need two groups back to back to make this work. I was given full given full marks for enthusiasm!
The 18 months between that moment and the trip were a long and fruitful journey; from looking for participants to developing a suitable training program for Greenland. I thought the best place to start would be speaking to anyone and everyone who had been to Disko Bay or anywhere else in Greenland. We collected from fun and hair-raising anecdotes to digital maps with waypoints and campsites to help us plan our time in the land of icebergs.
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ThePADDLER 56 PREPARING FOR THE TRIP
The highest priorities were to make sure our trip would be safe and enjoyable. We spent many months working on measures to provide a strong safety net and planned the training to get everyone ready for the adventure of a lifetime. This wasn’t just limited to kayak training but also packing, trimming and carrying loaded sea kayaks, making successful camps and feeding hungry kayakers for many days. We did some long kayaking weekends in Anglesey, Dorset and Devon to get us in the spirit of things followed by a week long trip to the west coast of Scotland.This final week was a great test of our plan and the suitability of our personal kit. Anything that needed to be tested was put through the paces there.
During these trips, we learned to work as a group and got to know each other’s strengths and weaknesses. After all, we were about to spend a serious amount of time relying on each other in the middle of nowhere in an environment that could prove to be hostile.
One of the biggest challenges for our trip was definitely meal preparation.We spent several months working on this, starting by measuring fuel requirements in Scotland, agreeing on a menu, which included spaghetti veg bolognese, a yummy dhal, pulled pork, bean stews, pancakes and cakes for rainy or cold days and then preparing the meals for shipping.
Due to the length of our trip, the limited space on the kayaks and the environment we were camping in, our best solution was drying and packing most meals prior to travel. Six weeks before the trip, we shipped five huge barrels to Ilulissat containing all sort of things designed to make our life a bit more comfortable in the wilderness.
GETTING TO ILULISSAT
Our departure date arrived in a flash and the leadership team flew out ahead of the first group to ensure smooth sailing and to deal with any potential
issues. We arrived at the charming little town of Ilulissat, which is next to Jackobshavn, the second largest glacier in the world. It looks like a small town at the edge of the world; rough around the edges, colourful and beautiful.
Ilulissat boasts of a population of 5,000 and many iconic places like their wooden church that was moved in 1929 after a giant iceberg destroyed the original 18th century building. There, we saw the Greenlandic skin-on-frame kayaks in the local kayak club and the shops selling jewellery made of caribou antlers and seal skin clothing.
The first day there I met Kempe, a Greenlandic kayaker and kayak builder who won my heart with his wit and taught me how to say,“Qajaq� properly. One evening I made dinner for him, he showed me all the movements needed to throw harpoons from a kayak and explained why the masik is the essential component that allows the hunter to use his full strength.
He told me tales of the hunt of walrus, belugas and seals. I learned that he had constructed the umiak boat that lives in front of the Ilulissat museum, originally skinned with walrus. One harsh winter, the
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ThePADDLER 58 locals, in need of skin to repair their own kayaks and coats, started taking bits of it, therefore later on the holed skin had to be replaced with coated canvas. It sounded like a different world listening to these stories of hunting and life in the ice.Talking to someone who had taken part in this way of life and actually used a kayak for hunting, was a very unique experience.
We were lucky to arrive in time for Greenland Day, which was celebrated at the church with traditional songs and bright beaded costumes. The icing on the cake was the fantastic demonstration of Greenland rolling by a husband and wife team using their skin-onframes qajaqs. They were in the bay in front of the church for about 30 minutes, demonstrating several types of rolls wearing a tulik and no gloves in 1C water among the broken ice. It was a privilege to see them demonstrating their traditions so expertly in front of a happy crowd.
After our group arrived, we spent several hours packing and repacking on the launch day. Eventually, we were under way after lunch to make passage through the huge icebergs that grind and float in Ilulissat Bay. We were out exploring the area north of
Ilulissat for many days. Rather than racing north, we aimed to paddle among the icebergs, watch the whales feed, enjoy the midnight sun and hike close to the ice cap.
KAYAKING IN GREENLAND
We were very conscious of the danger that kayaking near icebergs brings and this kept the group on their toes. Kayaking among the bergs requires a lot of concentration and care. They are a dangerous, beautiful and amazing work of nature – some are white, some green, some deep blue. They towered over our kayaks, sometimes leaning precariously, motivating us to paddle faster. Everyone in the group took hundreds of photos and when the whales appeared among the bergs, shouts of joy erupted from all of us.
We could hear the Minkes and Atlantic humpbacks before we could see them, their spout sounds filling the air even when they were far away. After coming up to breathe, they would dive curving their backs and exposing their huge tails in the air. Our attention was focused to see where they would appear next so we could capture that elusive moment on film.
In one of our camps, schools of whales would come several times a day to feed and snooze.There, we saw both adults and calves and huge males beating the surface of the sea with their powerful fins. At night, in the golden light of the midnight sun, we could hear their primeval screams which made it impossible to stay in our tents.The temptation to come out to see them was too strong and made us think of a primeval world. Â
There were periods during our trip when the weather was too cold or not suitable for kayaking. We made our way in the kayaks through some bouncy narrows and into a long fjord that ended close to the ice cap. The group was keen to get as close as possible to it, so we went hiking through soft tundra made of beautiful tiny flowers, bright moss and black lichens.
The monumental landscape is as beautiful as is this tiny carpet of life full of colour and intricate delicate shapes. That day we got to an excellent vantage point
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ThePADDLER 60 where we could appreciate the enormity of the ice cap, the moraine and the mountains with their vertical granite walls.
Along the way we saw several tiny settlements with summer houses and a small village with a traditional Greenlandic restaurant at where we stopped for dinner and beers. Owned by a couple who have two children and 18 sled dogs, the restaurant served us local delicacies including seal and halibut. Most families keep the dogs to move around in sleds when the sea freezes over.This mode of transport is slowly being replaced by modern motorised sleds that don’t require dogs, another sign of modernization in Greenland, which is unfortunately accompanied by the loss of traditional skills.
This year we are starting preparations for our third expedition, which will be led by Roger Chandler in 2020. Each year we do two expeditions – the spring and the summer trip. Paddlers participating will join us in Anglesey to work on developing a mindset, a group spirit and set the ambition for the expeditions
The trip is hard and the weather can be very variable, requiring expeditioners to pace themselves. It becomes important to focus on what is possible on the day rather than having set plans and routes, which are prone to being thwarted. Our experience has taught us that this adventure requires a relaxed and open approach to understand that the environment is all powerful.
In Greenland, the conditions dictate every decision: from where we go to what we eat and where we camp. Nature rules our daily journeys and dictates the number of tent days we will have. The joy of the trip is being there, to work as a team, gape at the ice, marvel at the whales and experience one long day that lasts for weeks. It is an incredible, jaw dropping experience for everyone that visits and an opportunity to make new friends from the groups and in Greenland.
For more information on our 2020 trips, please check contact adriana@exploraexpeditions.com or visit http://www.exploraexpeditions.com /greenland/
For Greenland chat, advice and tips join www.facebook.com/groups/kayakingin greenland
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The Surfers Against Sewage Campaign is back for 2019! Read more on page 16
The 2019 Coaching and Leadership Conference is for you... Read more on page 22
Britain North to South - The Hard Way: A twenty year perspective Read more on page 8
Late Summer 2019
Chris Hopwood, Cotswold Outdoor Expert
In partnership with
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Let’s go somewhere
Contents
3
Welcome
Access and Environment
Welcome
4
News News
5
Clear Access, Clear Waters Highlights
14
CACW Community Champion
15
The Surfers Against Sewage Autumn Campaign Summit to Sea is back for 2019!
16
Clear Access, Clear Waters Highlights p14 Two-time Olympian Rachel Schofield... p5
Our Partners
Go Paddling! #ShePaddles - spread the love!
6
Palm - Celebrating Forty Years
17
Jaffa - 7 Benefits of Oranges and Easy Peelers
18
Cotswold Outdoor - I am Chris
20
#ShePaddles - spread the love! p6 Palm - Celebrating Fourty Years p17
Feature Britain North to South - The Hard Way: A twenty year perspective
8
22
The 2019 Coaching and Leadership Conference... p22
Upcoming Events
Performance British paddlers win international medals
The 2019 Coaching and Leadership Conference is for you...
12
What’s On?
24
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
Britain North to South... p8
Coaching and Leadership
4
Welcome
I hope that you are enjoying yet another excellent edition of The Paddler and invite you to take a few minutes to read the Canoe Focus pages, not only to learn a little about what’s going on in British Canoeing, but to be inspired by the fantastic work of our members.
It was great to see members from the West Midlands join Tom Watson MP, the Deputy Leader of the Labour Party, on a paddle from Tipton to Birmingham. He really enjoyed the day and Tom is one of a growing number of advocates of our Access Charter – Clear Access, Clear Waters (P14). We were proud to recognise Andy Gee from Whoosh Explore Canoe Club, for his fantastic work in not only engaging the community through canoeing but also for protecting and improving the environment along rivers in Hertfordshire (P15). Just a few weeks ago we hosted the ICF Slalom World Cup, also in Hertfordshire at the Lee Valley White Water Centre. Our athletes performed incredibly well, winning 3 of the 4 gold medals in the Olympic classes and another gold in the Extreme Slalom. Many more athletes have already enjoyed national and international success in each of our disciplines this year and you can catch up with some of these results (P12 and P13).
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
The World Cup demonstrated some other real positives. We were virtually sold out on the first two days as more than 6000 spectators watched the event. We had 220 dedicated event volunteers enjoying their experience and wanting to return and we attracted two new sponsors in Jaffa and Red Bull who were also very positive about the their experience of working with British Canoeing. The highlights were screened on BBC 2 on the Sunday afternoon and had good viewing figures. We are now looking forward to hosting the European Slalom Championships in May 2020.
Jaffa is the official fruit partner of British Canoeing and there is a discount voucher for £1 off any of their fruit at Tesco. Please do make use of it. You may have noticed our promotion of a new members benefit provided by Halfords who are offering 10% off all of their instore products for members of British Canoeing. This is a great partnership as we know many of our members will want to visit Halfords to purchase bikes, car parts, camping and travel equipment. I am pleased to report that we are still making great progress towards the targets within Stronger Together. Our membership continues to grow as more members are renewing and more paddlers are joining British Canoeing for the first time. Our Clear Access, Clear Waters campaign remains front and centre in our work. Our revised coaching and leadership qualifications are being received very well. There are still some exciting new developments to be released before the end of 2019 and we look forward to sharing these with you in the next edition of Canoe Focus. Of course all of this work is designed to inspire the passion for paddling. I hope you are noticing the difference and becoming increasingly proud to be a member of British Canoeing.
Happy paddling. David Joy Chief Executive
N E WS
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For the latest news from British Canoeing head to our website! If you’re not a member sign up for free updates through regular newsletters
Liam Heath hosts Japanese visit to celebrate 1 year to go to the Tokyo 2020 Games
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk/news www.britishcanoeing.org.uk/membership/join-us-online-here
Two-time Olympian Rachel Schofield (née Cawthorn) calls time on competitive canoeing One of the longest standing members of the Great Britain Canoe Sprint team, Rachel Schofield has called time on her career after more than 15 years in the sport.
Click here to find out more
With just under a year to go until the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, Liam Heath recently welcomed a group of schoolchildren from Motomiya, Japan as part of a partnership with the British Olympic Association. The group watched Liam complete a gruelling training session, before taking part in a question and answer session hosted by the reigning Olympic champion.
Providers trained to run the NEW SUP Coach Awards Click here to find out more
British Canoeing partners with Halford British Canoeing has announced a brand new partnership with Halfords Group, which will see members receive a 10% discount on the retailers’ in store products. The discount will apply to all members of British Canoeing who have either On the Water or On the Bank category of membership - for in-store purchases at Halfords and Cycle Republic.
Presented by David Joy, British Canoeing CEO, Lee Pooley, Head of Coaching and Qualifications, and Ricky Snodgrass, Digital Education Solutions Lead, the British Canoeing presentation explored the coaching pathway.
Click here to find out more
Click here to find out more
The providers got on the water throughout the two days, taking part in workshops covering SUP Sheltered Water, SUP Open Water, SUP White Water and SUP Race, working through delivering the relevant discipline specific training, as well as classroom based workshops talking through administration processes and supporting candidates.
Paracanoe to be broadcast live at Tokyo 2020 Paralympic Games The International Paralympic Committee (IPC) has announced that Paracanoe will be amongst a further five sports that will be broadcast live from the Tokyo 2020 Paralympic Games, bringing the total number to a record 21 disciplines from 19 sports.
Click here to find out more
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
British Canoeing Present at UK Coaching Conference
On the 30th and 31st July, almost 20 providers attended the SUP Coach Award Orientation at the National Water Sports Centre, Nottinghamshire.
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Women’s Paddling Ambassadors, a hashtag, a Facebook group just for female paddlers...what’s that all about then? If paddlesport is for everyone, then why are British Canoeing making such a fuss about women? Well, it all starts with boring statistics and figures. No, don’t leave yet...we aren’t going to quote them all here! We know you’d far rather be paddling than staring at a page of stats. Here’s a basic overview; there are more men paddling than there are women. There you have it, short and (for us) not so sweet.
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
7
Available from: shop.britishcanoeing.org.uk
So, you just want more women paddling? Nope. We also want those women to get to where they want to be in paddlesport. That means creating a welcoming and supportive environment at every level within the sport. Research shows (don’t yawn at the back there) that women will hold back from presenting themselves for assessment far longer than men at the same paddling level. It’s important to us that, if women want to move into coaching and leadership roles, they flipping well get there!
It’s just a hashtag; how does that make a difference?
For the second year we’ve enlisted the help of ten inspiring ladies as Women’s Paddling Ambassadors. They were chosen for a range of reasons but mainly just for their full on passion for paddling! Our ambassadors are busy spreading the love in a range of disciplines and at all levels of the sport. We’re sure you want to know more, so you can read all about them here.
And...by popular demand Driven and developed by conversations in the Women’s Paddling Community and on the ground, we have a brand new #ShePaddles clothing range in our online store. Check it out and grab your gear here.
Why can’t we have #HePaddles too? You can! We want everyone to share their love of paddling, so feel free to use whichever hashtags sum that up for you. But...what would be equally as awesome is if you celebrate the amazing female paddlers in your life.
#ShePaddles is definitely not ‘just for girls’! Join the movement and spread the #ShePaddles love!
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
#ShePaddles is just one part of a bigger movement. Yes, we want to create the chatter on social media but we are also producing some tangible things to help everyone understand how they can make a difference. Such as this Engaging Women In Paddlesport document - there are stats and figures in this but we promise it’s an interesting read and has lots of great information too!
We also figured that the only way to get a movement moving was to give it space! So we created the Women’s Paddling Community on Facebook. An awesome group where almost 1000 female paddlers are sharing and supporting their paddling ideas and ambitions.
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a twenty year perspective In this article the Chair of British Canoeing, Professor John Coyne CBE, discusses the epic journey taken by two paddlers in 1999 and encourages them to take ‘the long view’. John had been made aware of the journey by a chance remark from a friend who said quite simply “My son did a long paddle in his youth.” This throwaway line alerted him to not just a long paddle, but a truly epic one. William and James had paddled from the Sea north of Scotland to the Channel: a journey which had been reported in Canoe Focus in August 2000, edition no 126. Twenty years ago, as we approached the Millennium and the milestone that it represented, two young professionals, William Burlington and James Hanson (a photographer and a film location manager) were facing milestones of their own – their thirtieth birthdays. They were determined they wanted to do something memorable, preferably historic that would not just serve their purpose – adventure before thirty – but would do some good. At the time a close friend was actively involved with the charity NCH, now known as Action For Children, and they responded by forging the idea to try to raise £75,000 for them. There remained just one decision to make – what to do? Despite no background in canoe or kayak they decided that they would try to become the first people to paddle from the sea off northern Scotland to the sea off Sussex, entirely by inland waterways. Their craft of choice – a touring K2 was chosen because the canals and some of the rivers would be quite narrow. It also helped to be able to look in the direction they were going.
Twenty years on I met up with William and James to reflect on their journey and to get a perspective on it that time can bring. It seemed astonishing that such an epic journey could be contemplated by someone with no background in paddling – only William had tried it on an outward bound holiday as a teenager. As they reflected back, they were acutely aware of what novices they had been, and yet how generously individuals and clubs had supported them. From attempting eskimo rolls at a club night in a swimming pool in central London, to sessions in Camden Lock, through to advice on technique at Richmond, Sunbury and anywhere that would have them enabled them to put together a survival technique in preparation for the off. They were loaned two K2 kayaks – “one quick and one robust” as they recalled. They bought a Rorqual and were most grateful to AC Canoes of Chester for the loan of an Explorer 515 which served them well; and for declining to have the kayak back at the end so they had a ‘trophy’ to hang from the ceiling.
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
9 The choice of route they explained was quite straightforward “Just look at a map and it’s pretty obvious,” they explained before adding “though we did do a detour into London and under Tower Bridge to help our sponsors.” When a route has never been done before it is not easy to classify it as obvious, (and however hard I looked it seemed less than obvious to me), but they carefully charted their route with a wind-swept starting point in Loch Eribol (briefly) then Loch Hope to the point where the Arun joins the channel at Littlehampton. In their planning they had two core principles – they would do the entire route together with no assistance and they would always put into the water at the start of the day at exactly the point they got out the evening before. Their independence philosophy had its first test after about ¾ of an hour – the first portage. Reflecting on their planning and the actual experience twenty years on I was struck that the portages were recalled more quickly than the paddling. They had admitted in an article in Canoe Focus in 2000 that the one element of their planning that they had paid too little attention to was the portage – a term they had only learned in their preparation but admitted they had never really fully understood the significance of. Their first day was a day of “loch-portage-loch-portage-loch’ before they arrived at their first planned stop and the welcome sight of their back up van and caravan.
When I asked James and William during the course of our discussion if there had ever been times when they felt like giving up James responded instantly with “Day one hour three - portage!”
William explained that it had been easier in Scotland but even there they had to be sensitive to other users, and the best places to get into and out of the water. He thrust his hand into a carrier bag as we spoke and produced a huge wodge of paper. “These are just some of the letters we had to write and respond to before we even set off just to secure our right to paddle.” This is an experience all too familiar today with only 4% of England’s waterways uncontested.
At a time when incidents with the fishing community are not unknown it was reassuring to learn that they had very few problems. Indeed the one occasion that they were chased by fishermen turned out to be because they had heard about their journey on local radio and wanted to make a donation - £20 dangling on the end of a fishing line! They made their way remarkably to schedule. Paddling about 20 to 30 miles per day, often dependent upon portages, they made “steady but unspectacular progress” and generally met their relief crew –family and friends – at the duly appointed time without incident. Both underplayed the physical side of the journey and found the rhythm worked well when they got into their routine. “We were going at our pace, remember,” says William “It’s not like the Devizes to Westminster when you are racing other crews and the clock. I really take my hat off to those guys. We were just gently paddling.” >>
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
The logistics had been meticulously worked out beforehand so the precision with which they had to operate to meet their back up team – sort food and provisions – and get some decent rest between days paddling was essential. One task they had that is familiar to paddlers today was the complexity of all the riparian rights and permissions that had to be secured along their route– virtually all 919 miles of it.
I was fascinated to read the details and support in some of the letters. As in so many cases the letters were full of good will, and as in this example a significant £100 donation to NCH too. The mind-set to master the logistics “that was mainly down to William,” says James. I was left astounded at the detail that had to be in place to make the journey possible.
10 >> Nonetheless a gentle 1000 miles is not without its physical challenges and William teased James that “He ended up with the bigger muscles because his technique was not as good as mine!” William was in front and James in the rear and they both recalled that whenever they passed people, the ‘heckle’ of choice was “The guy in the back isn’t paddling.”
Once on the canal system they at least had the relief that “our maps told us that the tough portages were at an end” and the canal system minimised the need to paddle against the flow. They had had enough of that – nearly! They recalled that it had been tough paddling through Glasgow against the flow.
It was clear that they enjoyed each other’s company during the trip and that it has cemented a firm friendship. Though they had been at school together, they only became firm friends after a chance meeting in a pub in Sydney, Australia, when they were both travelling.
A friendship formed by sharing a K2 for seven weeks was a test of any friendship and a test that they clearly not only survived but prospered from. They recalled one particularly long portage which took them through a picturesque archetypical English village. Quite by chance the village fete was taking place so the village was animated and busy, with most of the village out on the main street. Then along come two young men, with a K2 atop their shoulders as they make their way to the river. The village suddenly turns a curious gaze towards them and falls silent. A silence broken by the musical strain of the theme tune from Hawaii 5-0 as first one then all the crowd provide a musical accompaniment to their progress down the main street. The progress through England was very measured and predominantly on canals or canalised sections of rivers. As members of BCU (now known as British Canoeing) they had their licences in place and they were in more familiar territory.
Part of their daily routine as they made progress was to ensure that their story was heard locally and that they engaged the media and spread the word about their fund-raising, and their nominated charity – NCH (Action for Children). This was not the social media age that such journeys can utilise today. It required face to face contact, interviews for local papers, radio interviews and the like. Not always the most welcome activity after 25 miles of paddling – especially if it was a tough 25! They clearly had a strong sense of commitment to their charity and a drive to meet their stated £75,000 target. The generosity that they encountered has stayed with them – small donations and small acts of kindness to them and their back up team that made the difference and made the endeavour worthwhile.
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
It was to ensure that they receive maximum visibility and out of respect for their charity that they took a detour into the heart of London. They had seen the sign ‘To London’ at the Braunstone Junction of the Grand Union canal. A sight that suddenly gave them added confidence (it was Day 42) that their target was in sight. It was still 200 miles to their destination but no doubt the very existence of a sign put a bit of zip into their paddles. They met friends and supporters under Tower Bridge who had gathered to greet them and support them, which made them feel “like conquering heroes.” It was a great opportunity for profile for the charity and their journey, but there was still a fair bit to conquer for the premature heroes. When the harbourmaster, not fully imbued by the spirit or significance of the event, moved them on they had to paddle up the Thames to Teddington.
11 Having had enough paddling against the stream they made sure their timings were right to catch the tide towards their overnight stop before joining the Wey navigation at Guildford. A further contemporary challenge awaited them as they prepared to follow ‘the lost route to the sea’ - a journey on the Wey and Arun that once linked London to the south coast - the need for a portage loomed. They would have to walk the tow path of the Wey and Arun which was derelict at the time despite the valiant efforts of the local Trust. A letter of February 1999, during the planning phase, from the Wey and Arun Trust had advised James of what they would face. The letter offers guidance on “those sections of the canal which are in water and could be navigated by canoe,” advises them to use “The Cranleigh Waters which will take you almost into the village of Bramley through which, regretfully, a fair section of the old canal has been filled in and built over” and further advises “Putting the canoe into the Arun at Pallingham would require special permission because both the river banks and former towpath are no longer rights of way.” I could not help but be struck by this cameo of our current challenges. Their eyes lit up as they recalled the final stretch. “The River Arun is one of the fastest flowing rivers,” remarked William “It was a bit of a joy ride – though not without its challenges.” It was certainly a welcome morning utilising their newly acquired strength, confidence and technique as they approached the welcome party gathered in Littlehampton for their anticipated early afternoon arrival.
They arrived, on schedule, on Day 51, at 1.30pm on the beach at Littlehampton to be greeted by family, friends, supporters and their charity.
On being pressed whether there was anything more significant William did confess that he had picked up a pebble on the shore of Loch Eriboll at the start of the journey and carried it with him all the way. He threw it into the sea at Littlehampton as the symbolic manifestation of the 919 miles they had completed. They had become the first people to link the north and south coasts in this way – “But never recognised by The Guinness Book of Records,” comments William, with just a hint of pique. It was certainly a journey worthy of recognition. It was an exceptional feat for the experienced canoe and kayak fraternity let alone for two novices choosing it as their first encounter. It was also massively significant for their chosen charity for whom they gave profile and a very welcome £86,000 raised (equivalent to £150,000 in 2019).
It is clear that even twenty years on, the very act of recollection resurfaces and makes real the accomplishments of the journey. As I left them I was still not convinced that they truly appreciated the significance of what they had done or the admiration it inspires in those of us used to less challenging pastimes.
Biographical note: William Burlington is now, amongst other responsibilities, Chancellor of the University of Derby, and in 2019/20 will be Derbyshire’s High Sheriff James Hanson is now leading his wife’s family business in Sheffield from a home in Derbyshire. He runs a business which, perhaps fittingly, is still capable of deriving its productive power from water using a water wheel integrated into the production process by Joseph Wilson in c.1757. Professor John Coyne CBE is currently the Chair of British Canoeing a role he has held since November 2016. He combines this volunteer role with a variety of other interests since his retirement from The University of Derby in 2015 where he served as Vice Chancellor for 11 years.
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
Not to mention a film crew with a cameraman balancing a camera the size of a planet on his shoulder knee deep in uncertain waters as the happy paddlers reached their ultimate goal. I asked whether they marked their arrival in any
particular way. “A few hugs and kisses and then a few beers,” responded James instantly.
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British paddlers win international medals Congratulations to the British paddlers who have won international medals and achieved great performances across a range of competition disciplines so far this summer… Polo Congratulations to the British women’s canoe polo team after winning the gold medal at the 2019 Flanders Cup in Mechelen. Having navigated their way through the early stages of the competition, the senior women’s side faced a strong French team in the final. Backing up their 2018 Flanders Cup title, the experience and class of the team came through once again as they claimed a 7-4 victory in the final. The women’s U21 team claimed a brilliant 4-2 victory over Switzerland in the bronze medal match. The team had some great results on the way to the third place play-off including an emphatic 11-0 victory over Poland. The British teams will next be in action at the 2019 ECA Polo European Championships in Portugal at the end of August.
Marathon Congratulations to Lizzie Broughton (Richmond) and Tim Dowden (Norwich), who both won bronze medals at the 2019 ECA Canoe Marathon European Championships in Decize.
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
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On the first day of the Championships Lizzie won the first medal, in the Ladies Short Course Race. Coming into the final and decisive portage, she was in a group of four, but Hungarian Vanda Kiszli dropped her boat and fell out of medal contention. Despite a slight struggle getting her boat out of the water, Lizzie managed to maintain third place and claim the bronze medal, just five seconds behind silver. In an incident packed race Tim Dowden secured the bronze medal in the Junior Men’s K1 - his first race at European Championship level.
Freestyle Ottilie Robinson-Shaw retained her junior women’s title at the 2019 ICF Freestyle World Championships in Sort. In the final despite flushing out in her first ride, Ottilie managed to get back to the feature and still put down an outstanding ride scoring 536.67 points. The 17-year-old also delivered some fantastic moves, including a McNasty and huge Loops in her second round. The 2019 gold medallist showed off some epic moves in her final victory ride. It was a second medal for Ottilie who claimed the bronze medal in the women’s squirt boat event on the first day of the Championships. Also on the podium was Alex Edwards, who took silver and Sam Wilson bronze in the men’s squirt.
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Wildwater Racing There were some fine individual and team performances at the 2019 ICF Junior and Under 23 Wildwater Canoeing World Championships in Banja Luka. Laura Milne qualified for the Women’s U23 Kayak Sprint Final, in which she placed 14th. It was a great result for the Scottish paddler from Dunblane in her first season at U23 level. In the Individual Classic races Francis Huntingford from Exeter led the way taking 15th place in the Men’s U23 Kayak. In the team classic events Jodie Ball, Laura Milne and Esme Durrant combined to take fourth place in the Women’s U23 race, just one place off a podium finish. In the Men’s U23 Freddie Brown, Calum Gingell and Francis Huntingford put down a strong team performance to take fifth place.
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Etienne Ch
Sprint
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European Championships Daniel Atkins (Reading) claimed the gold medal in the K1 Junior Men 200m at the 2019 ECA Junior and U23 Canoe Sprint European Championships in Račice. On the final day of racing Daniel made a blistering start in the K1 Junior Men 200m to lead the race from start to finish, coming home in 37.195, 0.3 seconds ahead of Nikita Barannikov from Russia. Philip Miles won the silver medal in the K1 Junior Men 1000m. Starting in lane 7 Philip was in fifth place with 250 metres to go, but a strong finish saw the Leamington Spa paddler move into the silver medal position.
World Championships
Slalom Great Britain won three team medals at the 2019 ICF Junior and U23 Slalom World Championships in Krakow. Etienne Chappell, Jonny Dickson and Ben Haylett went clean and fast down the course to post an unbeatable time of 91.49, triumphing in the junior men’s K1 team event and taking the gold medal. The trio of Kurts Adams-Rozentals, Alfie Boote and James Kettle put down a strong run in the junior C1 team event to go top of the leader board and hold onto the bronze medal. Bethan Forrow teamed up with Ellis Miller and Lois Leaver to win the junior K1 women’s bronze. The team picked up two penalties but managed to keep their composure to take third place.
Daniel Atkins also added the World Championships title to the European one he won in Račice. After dominating the rounds, it was a tense photo finish but he converted the hard work he has done over the winter, training with reigning Olympic Champion Liam Heath MBE, to come through with the win. Overall the team made 8 A Finals across 6 Olympic disciplines.
Extreme Slalom Etienne Chappell has won the Extreme Slalom Junior World Championship crown after triumphing in extreme conditions in Krakow. After winning senior extreme slalom gold at the World Cup in Lee Valley earlier in the season, Etienne became the first men’s junior World Champion of the upcoming discipline. Battling the tough conditions, the Welsh paddler showed his class and speed in the event throughout. He started the day off confidently with a victory in the time-trials, qualifying in 51.05.
Daniel A tkins
inson-Shaw
Easing through the heats and quarter finals, stormy conditions threatened to derail Etienne’s chances of reaching the podium. However, he battled the elements to storm the final and claim the World title.
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
Bethan Forrow (C1) and Etienne Chappell (K1) also claimed individual bronze medals at the U23 and Junior European Championships in Liptovsky.
Ottilie Rob
m Team
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Clear Access, Clear Waters
Highlights It’s been a busy few months for the access and environment team, with lots of work taking place to support the Clear Access, Clear Waters Charter and keep it in the forefront of people’s minds! Here’s some highlights! We went paddling with Tom Watson The Deputy Leader of the Labour Party! As part of ‘Adventures 4 Health’ British Canoeing joined the Deputy Leader on his paddle challenge through the West Midlands in July. Starting at Malthouse Stables (Tipton) and finishing in Brindley Place (Birmingham) Mr Watson took on the 9 mile paddle trail with members of local clubs, the West Midlands Regional Development Team and Ben Seal, Places to Paddle Manager at British Canoeing. As well as promoting the excellent health benefits of paddling, the trip was used to highlight British Canoeing’s campaign for fair, shared, sustainable open access for paddlers on inland waterways of England: the Clear Access, Clear Waters Campaign.
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
“Being out on the water in a canoe, I can see why our waterways are so popular. A place to unwind, exercise and experience our natural world. It is so important that these special ‘blue’ spaces are available to all, to be shared and protected for everyone’s enjoyment.” Tom Watson MP
Deputy Leader of the Labour Party
Click here to read more
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Our latest Clear Access, Clear Waters Community Champion is announced! Chantelle Grundy went along to Whoosh Explore Canoe Club in Hertfordshire to surprise member Andy Gee who has been crowned our latest Clear Access, Clear Waters Community Champion! Andy was put forward for the award by his club for going above and beyond, engaging the local community (including pensioners, scouts, guides and school groups) to help rid their local waterways of litter, pollution and invasive non native species. “I got involved with the clean ups as I don’t like to see the river in such a mess, it’s much better to go paddling and see it lovely and clean. “It’s great to get lots of people on the water collecting litter, as once you’ve seen it with your own eyes and experienced it you really understand the problems it causes; it makes you really careful about how you dispose of your litter properly.” said Andy. Every week Andy hosts a ‘Pensioners Paddle Group’ which not only gives pensioners the chance to get out on the water and experience paddling, but combines the session with a wider purpose. Andy also applies this philosophy to activity sessions he holds with local scout, guide and school groups; using it as a chance to educate the next generation about the environment whilst they take part in paddlesports.
As we are all aware, looking after the environment isn’t just about collecting litter from the waterways. Invasive non native species also have a part to play in damaging the environment. Peter Nash, who nominated Andy explains; “Andy is always helping to keep boats clear of any invasive species, including collecting floating pennywort where it builds up next to locks. As a result, our paddlers have prevented it from getting broken up by passing narrow boats on our stretch of river.” Peter Nash, Whoosh Explore Canoe Club
Could you or someone you know be our next Community Champion? Submit a nomination today! In partnership with Peak UK we are looking for Clear Access, Clear Waters Community Champions who can inspire a movement to campaign for fair, shared and sustainable open access!
If you, or someone you know is worthy of a nomination you can find out everything you need to know here!
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
Each month we will select one champion (either a club, group or individual) who has truly inspired others and really gone above and beyond to champion the cause.
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THE SURFERS AGAINST SEWAGE
Autumn Campaign Summit to Sea is back for 2019! Plan a clean up event between the 19th – 27th October and help us make this the biggest campaign yet! British Canoeing and The Canoe Foundation are once again delighted to be supporting Surfers Against Sewage as Community and Charity Partners for their Autumn Beach Clean campaign, and are calling for volunteers to register their clean up events on inland waterways, beaches, urban areas and even mountains!
Head to the River Cleans section on our website (www.britishcanoeing.org. uk/go-canoeing/access-andenvironment/river-clean-ups)
to find out everything you need to organise and host your waterways clean up
Chantelle Grundy
Access and Environment Officer at British Canoeing
including how to invite your local MP so you can spread the word about the amazing work you’re doing!
Let us kno w !
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
We’ll be sharing the achievements of your amazing clean ups with government and across our social media channels.
Reg ist
You can also email your pictures and good news stories to access@ britishcanoeing. org.uk
To register your event as part of the campaign you can head to head to the registration page on the Surfers Against Sewage website here (www.sas. org.uk/our-work/beachcleans/organise-beachclean/) or you can email beachcleans@ sas.org.uk
or tag us on social media.
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Following this overwhelming success, we are hoping to make the Autumn Campaign even bigger than ever!
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“Our support over the past two campaigns has really highlighted the amazing work paddlers up and down the country do on a regular basis to clean up our waterways, support our vision for fair, shared and sustainable open access on water; and demonstrate our commitment to protecting the environment.”
Thanks to the help of paddlers, the spring campaign which took place earlier this year, was the BIGGEST yet for Surfers Against Sewage with 45,771 volunteers across the UK joining community clean up events.
et involved g o t ?
19th-27th Oct 2
All clean leaders will receive a step-by-step guide and all of the equipment needed to organise clean ups free of charge from Surfers Against Sewage.
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Palm recently celebrated its 40th birthday In 1979, Andy Knight turned making kayaks as a hobby into a business – Palm Glass Fibre Moulding. From a small shed with a leaky tin roof on the Somerset coast with a single secondhand sewing machine to Palm Equipment International ltd, with world class rotomoulding facilities in the UK, its own garment factory in Vietnam and retailers across the globe. The reputation of Palm’s buoyancy aids and paddling gear has reached the farthest corners of the world. And at their UK headquarters Palm manufacture and import sit-on-tops, kayaks and canoes from Islander, Dagger, Wilderness Systems and Mad River Canoe. Last year, Palm acquired Islander Kayaks and have made available for sale the world’s first recycled marine waste kayaks. Andy attributes Palm’s success to the growth and fellowship of the paddling community – along with Palm’s relentless mission to improve the gear we paddle with.
Click Here To read more about Palm’s history.
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
Join them in celebrating this milestone by sharing your Palm paddling stories with #Palm40years
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7 benefits of Oranges and Easy Peelers! Oranges and easy peelers are the ideal snack for hardworking paddlers. Full of goodness, including vitamins A, B & C, calcium and potassium, they’re perfectly pocket-sized and even come in their own biodegradable wrapper. For even more benefits of these bright little superfruits, read on.
Vitamin C Need more vitamin C in your diet? It helps prevent injury and aids muscle repair. If you’re an active person, it is important to get your daily recommended intake. Just two Jaffa oranges or easy peelers mean you’ve got your vitamin C needs covered.
Cholesterol Citrus fruits such as oranges could help reduce cholesterol. Research suggests that hesperidin, a clever antioxidant found in oranges, is an expert in bringing down high blood pressure and cholesterol.
Water Jaffa oranges and easy peelers are full of water, so if you don’t like the taste of plain water, the citrus zing is a welcome change to keep you hydrated
Versatility Oranges are a tasty addition to your breakfast smoothie, a pick-me-up in the afternoon, and even make up a delicious sauce for your dinner. Head to Jaffa.co.uk/recipes for recipe inspiration!
Glucose Levels Easy peelers can help maintain blood glucose levels, preventing sugar crashes later in the day which can affect your performance
Multi-Purpose Perfect for on-the-go. Unlike plastic wrappers that must be thrown away, orange peel can be kept and used for its zest in lots of recipes
Low Maintenance
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
Easy to keep fresh, oranges can happily sit on the side for a week and still taste delicious. To keep them at their best for longer, just pop them in the fridge They taste great…
Available At
Proud Sponsors Of
In celebration of our partnership with British Canoeing, redeem this voucher in any Tesco store across the UK to receive ÂŁ1 off your Jaffa citrus!
Great for snacking and creating our delicious recipes!
When you’re heading out onto the water, minimising the weight and size of your load is a top priority. Here’s our expert guide to lightweight adventure camping.
Dry bags are essential for keeping your kit dry on the water. A ripstop fabric will be extra durable, and straps are a great feature when it comes to carrying your kit.
Bivvy bags are a more lightweight and packable option than tents, but offer significantly less protection. Many bivvy-ers opt to bring a tarp to sleep under.
There are two types of sleeping mats. Self-inflating mats are more convenient and tend to be more comfortable. Air-filled mats require you to blow them up manually and tend to be lighter and easier to pack down.
A comfortable sleeping bag is the foundation of any camping kit. Down-insulated sleeping bags offer great warmth-to-weight ratio, but lose insulating capability when wet, so canoers may prefer synthetic insulation.
Trusted by our partners since 1974 Stores nationwide | cotswoldoutdoor.com
Chris Hopwood, Cotswold Outdoor Expert
In partnership with
Betws-y-Coed, Wales
For Cotswold Outdoor store expert Chris Hopwood, being on the water is more than a hobby. It’s an escape from daily life, a chance to reconnect with the outdoors; a different way to move through the landscape he knows and loves, and see it in an entirely new way.
Starting out in paddling is all about getting your kit right. Take your waterproof jacket, lightweight clothing and technical shoes to the hills, the trails or the water and be prepared for whatever adventure has in store.
15% discount
for members of British Canoeing Full T&Cs apply. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer or discount. Selected lines are exempt. Maximum 10% discount on bikes. Exclusively for Explore More cardholders. Only valid upon production of your British Canoeing membership identification in-store or use of code online. Offer expires 31.12.19.
Let’s go somewhere
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Aimed at all clubs, centres, parents, paddlers, coaches and leaders, this year’s Coaching and Leadership Conference has something for everyone! Take your pick from 19 workshop options… The programme has been designed so that you can personalise your own learning journey. Whatever your interest or developmental need, the workshops aren’t just aimed at coaches and leaders. We’re confident there’s something for everyone! To name a few, choose from –
NEW Introduction to Paddle-Ability Aimed at anyone who would like to develop their understanding, attendees will begin to investigate the challenges, real and perceived, that people with a disability face in accessing paddlesport, giving you an understanding of how to adapt your approach to engage people with a disability.
Camp Craft and Expedition Skills This classroom-based workshop will look at the leave no trace philosophy, expedition nutrition and hydration, paddling a loaded craft, as well as wildlife considerations – bears, bugs and beasts! From day trips to multi-day expeditions, paddlers will be provided with top tips and a valuable insight to making the most out of journeying with your chosen craft.
Open Water SUP Skills This on-the-water workshop is aimed at people looking to take their Stand Up Paddleboarding to more adventurous open water environments whilst being more independent, either as a team or individual.
Physical Development for Paddlers and Athletes This workshop is designed to assist coaches to understand paddlesport from a physiological demands perspective, using this information to develop suitable plans, from a macro to micro scale, to better prepare your paddlers and athletes and implement this at your club.
Wearable Technology in Paddlesports The use of wearable technologies that monitor health and training loads has become increasingly popular amongst paddlers, leaders and coaches. This classroom-based workshop aims to develop the coaches’ understanding of how wearables can be used to enhance training, motivation and performance whilst considering the negative affects their use can have on a paddler’s physical, psychological and psychosocial wellbeing.
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
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Of course, we’ve managed to secure some truly inspirational keynotes: Sophia Jowett Who will explore the importance of quality coachathlete relationships.
Marianne Davies Who will explore what it means to coach people, how to design practice that is representative of a performer’s needs and how to create learning environments that support motivation and skill acquisition.
Steve MacDonald Who will take a practical focus, drawing together strands from coaching relationships and designing practice that is representative of performance needs to our own coaching practice. To feel truly inspired, make new connections and learn new skills, you need to be in the room.
So, what are you waiting for? Join us at Eastwood Hall, Nottinghamshire on the 23rd and 24th November and you will be able to: >> Connect with like-minded coaches, leaders and clubs across all disciplines >> Engage, discuss and reflect on the insightful keynotes and workshops throughout the weekend >> Enabling you to think differently about how coaching and leading can enable your participants to thrive >> Update your CPD for three years!
Make sure you don’t miss out! Read the full programme and book online today.
Canoe Focus Late Summer 2019
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What’s On? SEP
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Polo British Open: Holme Pierrepont
Sat 14th – Sun 15th Sep 2019
The Canoe Polo British Open once again returns to Holme Pierrepont with the top teams from across the country competing for the title. Find out more here.
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Sat 5th – Sun 6th Oct 2019
www.canoeicf.com
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Coaching and Leadership Conference: Eastwood Hall, Nottinghamshire
Sat 23rd – Sun 24th Nov 2019 The conference brings together instructors, coaches, leaders and guides, with varied experiences and disciplines, who are invited to engage, discuss and reflect on the insightful keynotes and workshops throughout the weekend. Find out more here.
www.britishcanoeing.org.uk
SEP
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Hasler Finals: Southampton Canoe Club Sat 28th Sep 2019
The Hasler series is the heartbeat of British marathon canoeing. The finals is the culmination of the series which will see 2,700 competitors compete across 8,500 races. Around 40 clubs will qualify for the finals where they will battle it out to be Hasler champions. www.southamptoncc.co.uk
Regatta London: Central London Sun 29th Sep 2019
For one day only, kayaking, canoeing, rowing and paddle boarding will take over the River Thames. This pioneering event will fundraise for great causes, connect sport with the environment and inspire people from across the country to take up paddle sports.
Slalom British Open: Lee Valley
With some of the country’s top slalom paddlers set to compete, the event will showcase a fantastic weekend of paddling which will see the British Open champions crowned.
NOV
SEP
NOV
15
Southern Region Film & Photography Festival: Abingdon, Oxfordshire Fri 15th Nov 2019
Come and join us for our Film and Photography Festival at the Amey Theatre with guest speakers including Ivan Lawler! Celebrate the joy of epic adventures, amazing athletes, members, clubs and centres through sharing experiences and celebrating the many successes in our sport and other epic outdoor sports. james.hinves@britishcanoeing.org.uk
MAR
14
Stronger Clubs Conference: Eastwood Hall, Nottinghamshire Sat 14th Mar 2020
The conference aims to bring together club officers, club coaches, event organisers and volunteers who all contribute to the growth and development of paddlesport in England. The day will provide the latest insights from across paddlesports to keep your club up to date, helping your volunteers to feel better informed, better equipped and even stronger together. Programme and information published early September.
SILVERBIRCHCANOES.COM
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Main photo: The mountains surrounding Lake Brienz at Interlaken dominate the skyline
Words: Guy Dresser All photos unless stated: Dave Storey
For a canoeist, there can be few more life-enhancing views than that of the mountains towering over Lake Geneva as you paddle through crystal clear waters half a mile offshore at Lausanne in the canton of Vaud.
Surrounded by the Alps on the French side of the lake and the Jura on the other, this really is a paddler’s paradise. This crescent-shaped lake, formed by the Rhone River, forms a majestic blue carpet between Haute-Savoie, the French département some eight miles distant and the tidy Swiss lakeside towns that line Lac Léman, as it’s known to the local French-speaking populace, all the way from Villeneuve to Geneva, some 45 miles away, via Vevey, Montreux and Nyon.
Paddling from Switzerland to France here is possible, though buoyancy aids are compulsory for those who do so, and crossings should always be registered with the nearest harbourmaster, who will helpfully tip off the patrolling rescue boats that motor along the border to keep a wary eye out.
Such is the lake’s size that it offers a multitude of canoeing options, from touring boats, folding kayaks and inflatables, to aspiring slalom competitors weaving around poles in Lausanne, to the more serious groups of racers training in surf skis. There are few racing kayaks to be seen, the lake’s exposed nature and the often strong local wind, the Bise, which blows from the northwest of the lake to the southwest shore, following the edge of the Alps, often makes for sizeable waves, even when the passing wakes of large passenger boats aren’t already stirring up the waters
The spectacular Giessbach falls on the Brienzersee near Interlaken
SWITZERLAND
T H E
PA D D L E R ’ S PA R A D I S E :
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An all-year-round paddling destination
Winter paddling still possible in snowy Switzerland
In fact, for a land-locked country,
sea kayaks are remarkably popular in Switzerland, reflecting both the water conditions of the larger lakes as much as the expeditionary nature of the Swiss, who like nothing better than to get out and about on the water at weekends and during their holidays, often equipped with little more than a tent and some sustenance.
Lake Geneva is just one of more than several thousand lakes in Switzerland though only around 100 are greater than 30 hectares in area and offer interesting enough paddling for the discerning canoeist.They can, however, be found dotted all over the country, and for those who want it, provide many exploration opportunities.
Warm summers: ideal for introducing children to paddling
As one might expect in a country where organization is admired and order respected, there are many well-recognized canoe trails, trips and expeditions that can be followed online with helpful advice and tips about campsites, access points and food and provision stores – a great starting point for the visiting paddler is Switzerland Mobility (www.schweizmobil.ch), a website that aims to give the non-motorized traveller everything they need to get around, including by canoe.
Of course, paddlers can simply take to the water independently, and many Swiss do. Although there are just 46 canoe-kayak clubs affiliated to the Swiss Canoe Federation with some 3,500 members, this belies the popularity of watersports here.
Many Swiss store their boats at home and take to the water by themselves, free of access restrictions that apply to powered craft. Access to waterways here is usually open to all, except around nature reserves, which are well marked on touring maps and must always be observed.The authorities may not be omnipresent but a responsible Swiss will always carry out their civic duty by calling the police when they see the rules being infringed, even if it is by an unwary tourist, and a hefty fine can be expected.
Fun for adults and children alike Idyllic lakes offer multiple paddling opportunities
SWISS PRIDE
The Swiss are proud of their countryside and justifiably so. Each of the country’s 26 cantons has something to offer canoeists, from lakes large and small to a huge variety of rivers, from the mighty Rhine to the Aare, Rhone, Reuss and Limmat, to name just a few.They each offer different perspectives, from challenging white water tough enough to test the most skilled paddler, to more sedate waterways that attract legions of Swiss every summer, many equipped with no more than an inflatable kayak and a few bottles of beer. Drifting downstream in the summer months is a popular pastime on many rivers, especially around larger towns.
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ThePADDLER 92 JOHN MACGREGOR
Switzerland is hardly an unknown destination for canoeists, featuring as it does in the earliest tales of hardy kayak explorers. Scottish lawyer John MacGregor’s travels across Europe with his wooden boat in the late 1800s were famously recounted in his book ‘A Thousand Miles in the Rob Roy Canoe on Rivers and Lakes of Europe’, surely one of the earliest travel books of its kind. It included detailed tales of adventures MacGregor had on the Reuss, the Lakes of Lucerne, Zug and Zurich, and the Rhine.
Unmistakably Swiss architecture
Were he to undertake his epic voyage again, there is much in Switzerland that MacGregor would still recognize today. His descriptions of the countryside will seem familiar now because in many rural parts of the countryside, little has changed. Superficially it has, there is more traffic and agriculture as described by McGregor is more mechanized these days. But farms are still small and the waters still run clear, while the Swiss remain curious, if still somewhat distant, when approached by a foreign paddler asking for help in broken German.
Briton Dave Storey, head of recreational canoeing for the Swiss Canoe Federation (www.swisscanoe.ch), says that – as John MacGregor found more than 120 years ago – the country has a lot to offer the visiting paddler.
“As a venue for paddling, it’s mind-blowing to come here. You can get very close to nature, enjoy lakes and rivers with all sorts of possibilities for every level of canoeist.There are many places you can only really reach by kayak and it’s good for the expert and the beginner alike.”
HIGHTIDE KAYAK SCHOOL
Lake Thun, part of the Jungfrau mountain range near Interlaken
Leisurely tours on any of more than 100 large lakes
Ten years ago Storey set up Hightide Kayak School on Lake Brienz in the heart of the Bernese Oberland. Based near Interlaken (literally ‘between the lakes’), the company offers courses, tours, rentals and expeditions.
The appeal of Lake Brienz is obvious at first glance – the waters have a strangely attractive turquoise hue due to the sediment washed into the lake by mountain waters from the Lütschine and the Aare rivers. At 260 metres at its deepest point, the lake is also one of the five deepest in Switzerland, and while a capsize will give paddlers a quick lesson in glacial water temperatures, the lake remains paddleable even in the depths of winter.
Switzerland
John MacGregor found more than 120 years ago –
has a lot to offer the visiting paddler
The lake at Brienz, an artist’s playground
Winter paddling despite the snow
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Whitewater opportunities abound in Switzerland
Playboat competition on the Muota: Picture credit: Ivar Kohler
Left: ICF1 competitors at the 2018 ICF World Wildwater Championships in Switzerland. Photo: Guy Dresser
Picnic opportunities at the lakeside
C2 - Ryan Hunt and Mike Rees Clark of Great Britain in the Senior Men’s C2. Picture: Andrew Trender
“We kayak here all year-round, the lake doesn’t freeze in winter and there’s something particularly magical about taking groups of canoeists out on the water when the surrounding land and mountains are completely covered in snow,” says Storey.
GLACIAL RIVERS
Beyond the lakes, the glacial rivers have much to offer the more determined paddler. The unwary should, however, note that the grading system in Switzerland tends to veer towards the realistic.
“There really is every level of whitewater here, from the nearly unpaddleable to more gentle rapids,” says former Swiss whitewater paddler Heinz Wyss. “When people think of the Alps, they think of seriously fast rivers and they wouldn’t be wrong. Grade 2 rivers in some countries, for instance, tend to be smaller and more forgiving than the Grade 2s here.”
Wyss, a septuagenarian who was a mainstay of the national team in his youth, helped organize the International Canoe Federation’s world whitewater racing championships at Muotathal, in canton Schwyz a year ago.
While rapid racing is no longer part of his daily routine, canoeing remains a family pastime and Wyss is often to be found paddling on rivers and lakes across Switzerland.
“We are blessed here,” observes Wyss. “There is really everything you could want as a canoe paddler. When I was a young man, there was nothing more appealing than challenging your mates to paddle some of the toughest rivers when the winter snow was melting. Nowadays, my canoeing is a little more sedate, and I really enjoy going out on the lakes with my friends and family.”
Created in the 1940s after the construction of the Rossens Damm on the Sarine River, this lake is a popular canoeing location, attracting a wide range of craft from surf skis, sea kayaks, racing kayaks to outriggers and increasing numbers of stand-up paddleboarders.
The sheltered lake has really no waves to speak of at all and the ‘slow surf ’ title of the competition doubtless owes more to the organisers’ sense of humour than to the realities of the water conditions.
It should not obscure the rising numbers of surf ski paddlers to be found on Switzerland’s lakes, a growth that arguably reflects the increasing global popularity of ocean racing.
END OF SEASON MARATHON
Arguably the toughest and most well attended longdistance canoe race in the Swiss calendar currently is the end of season marathon, held on Lake Lucerne, or the Vierwaldstättersee (‘four forested sites’, the German name used since the Middle Ages). Despite the lake’s reputation as a flat and fast course for international rowing regattas, its shape with four arms and many sharp bends means it is exposed in places and so capsizes among the more than 120 competitors on the 26-mile course are not unknown.
The plethora of competitions should not scare off the leisure paddler. Switzerland is a much-loved destination for canoe tourers, and with good reason. The outdoor-loving Swiss understand the needs of paddlers of all kinds, and for the most part are welcoming and friendly, if sometimes appearing a little standoffish initially. Facilities are good and well maintained, camp sites widely available and rivers and lakes remain highly accessible. In this multi-lingual country, an ability to speak French, German or Italian will always help, especially in rural parts of Switzerland like the canton of Grisons (Graubunden in German)
the grading system
The unwary should, however, note that
in Switzerland tends to veer towards the realistic
Muotathal Team competition photo. Picture credit: Neil Smorthit
The Muotathal world championships attracted national television coverage, reflecting strong Swiss interest in all outdoor sports, especially where competitors get very close to nature. More than a year later, canoeing competitions seem to be gaining in entry numbers, especially for surf skis. A summer series of mid-week 10,000 metre races for surf skis takes place across the northern part of the country, attracting more than 100 contestants and culminating in the grand final on Lake Gruyère, an artificial stretch of water near the eponymous cheese making town.
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Early morning lake mist which is home to some of the most spectacular white water in the country and where one is most likely to encounter speakers of romansh, one of the country’s four national languages. But for the most part, the obvious enthusiasm of a canoeist on a voyage of discovery through Switzerland’s beautiful countryside should prove enough to ensure even the most monolingual paddler can get by.
The turquoise waters of Lake Brienz
InformaTIon
USEFUL SOURCES OF INFORMATION ONLINE:
www.kanu-marathon.ch organisers of the Lake Lucerne canoe race
https://kayakaventure.ch organisers of the Lake Gruyère race
www.newlyswissed.com a useful online magazine about Switzerland
www.myswitzerland.com/en-ch/ the website of the Swiss tourism authority
www.meetup.com/canoeing-and-kayaking-inswitzerland/ a useful trip organization website
https://hightide.ch sea kayak coaching, tours, rentals, courses on Lake Brienz and elsewhere
http://seakayakcenter.ch/de/index.php a leading sea kayak supplier, based in Zurich
http://kanuschule-bodensee.ch a canoe instruction centre on Lake Constance
http://swisscanoe.ch Swiss canoe federation website
www.schweizmobil.ch/en/summer.html Switzerland mobility, a travel site for those not going by car
River basins of Europe, made by grasshoppergeography.com
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Sea Kayak Training Camp 2019
Words and photos: Dimitri Vandepoele
Let me introduce the concept of our Sea Kayak Training Camp (SKTC) and how it all started. In 2018, I was asked to coach an event on the beautiful island of Lumbarda, Croatia. A Croatian couple, Boris and Ivka, from Spirit of Korkyra wanted to start their own sea kayaking business and they wanted to learn a few things themselves.They had already watched the videos about our annual training day in Belgium, and they wanted something similar but spread over a week instead of just one day. They didn’t want a symposium, but a basic event where everybody is welcome to join regardless age or skill level to train together in a safe environment. I got their blessings on how I wanted to organize the event and they fully supported me in my decisions. Now we can say that the concept just feels good, both for us as for the participants.
This one has been the second SKTC and there is already a third one is planned for 2020. We keep the event rather small in order to provide quality. Up to
10 kayakers can join in and they will be coached for five days in a row. There’s a good mix between theoretical lessons and practical sessions. We provide some theoretic classes during the morning, during the first days and we combine this with training on the water during the afternoon.
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DAY ONE
After getting to know each other, we teach the basics of sea kayaking. I made an important statement that I want to see a team by the end of the week, not just a bunch of individuals – that is one of the most important elements in my own NORTHSEAKAYAK team.
We emphasize the four rules: l always wear your PFD, l dress for immersion, l check/field test your gear on a regular base so you can operate it when the need arises… l …and imagine the worst that can happen and prepare for it.
We give the forward paddling stroke some attention, leading us to the correct use of the right equipment and clothing to end with assisted rescues. After lunch and an obligate gear check, we go out on the crystal clear water to train together. Somebody once said, in a serious way, that if you train together with the people from NORTHSEAKAYAK, you’ll spend more time IN the water than in your boat… Couldn’t agree more, because we want people to feel calm and confident after a capsize.
We teach them to trust each other and to work together in order to perform a swift, fast and solid assisted rescue that will work in almost all situations. We pay attention to details, such as the placement of the hands during the rescue, we try to put a standard and clear way of communication between rescuer and swimmer. We make sure to train on variations so that the participants can perform the rescue in a comfortable way.
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After some theoretics in the classroom during the morning we got back on the water. Day two’s menu; consisted of the self-rescue. Every kayaker should be able to perform a swift rescue in the conditions he/she paddles in. Even a so called bomb-proof can fail if all the conditions are right (or wrong), and then it’s up to you to get back in your boat. I still hate the word ‘bomb-proof-roll’ even if my own last failed rolling attempt dates back from many years ago. I’m convinced that one day I will find myself back in the water after a failed roll, and then I’m well prepared. That’s also the mindset that we want to create among the participants. Everybody spent plenty of time in the water, but we kept things fun and the learning curve was good. If I was paid with smiles, I would have been a very rich man!
DAY THREE
Best way to describe that day is a mix between boat control, with many varying strokes and different rescues along the way. When paddling around the small rocky islands we can teach a lot of steering and manoeuvring strokes. With the rocks close by everybody got to see how the boat reacts and it allowed me to give feedback on the spot. We put in some minor incidents where the whole group aided a capsized and injured paddler. It brought up both the tension and the way the group was becoming a team.
‘bomb-proof-roll’
I still hate the word
even if my own last failed rolling attempt dates back from many years ago
DAY FOUR
Day four was for mixing all the previously learned techniques! We created unexpected incidents where we pointed out a few team members to solve a certain problem. This started with a simple assisted rescue to a more complicated rescue of an injured paddler. We were a bit sneaky, from time to time as we pointed out a volunteer to do some unexpected things where the team needed to react in a safe and fast way. For example, we created a totally freaked out and panicking victim that had lost his boat, and paddle. It was great to see how the other team members
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handled situations like that. We also put in some timed games., where five people in the water, capsized, and on my signal the other five paddlers (rescuers) started the rescue as fast as possible. We also visited a very old limestone quarry on one of the larger islands.
DAY FIVE
The last day was the evaluation day! We made a longer trip to Korcula, a very beautiful and old city along the water. Everybody had to be a team leader during a part of the trip, where of course we put in
many special tasks and danger leapt from every corner. We ordered some of the team members to wander off discretely, as we made sure that someone was badly injured, or seasick. This was to see if problems were solved by the team – participating the SKTC can be thorough.
After the last day everybody received a certificate of participation, but we emphasized that any certificate is only valued if you keep on training on all the learned techniques.
But a video can say so much more than words. Check it out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLmEHr0twUE
Paddle safe and take care of each other on the water!
ThePADDLER 106 Tailor-made Canoeing, Kayaking & Rafting Holidays
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New & recycled lockable plas c containers for canoe safes etc. Available from stock. Also recycled steel drums for pontoons.
Collect from our Gloucestershire depot or na onwide delivery available. Visit www.smdd.co.uk or call on 01594 833308.
RIVER DART ACCOMMODATION Stone Barn Cottage, HOLNE, TQ13 7SL Two-minute drive to The Loop/Newbridge Self-cater. Sleeps six has three great hot showers/one bath Bring own sleeping bags/towels l Warm and comfortable TV. WIFI l Good drying facilities l Off road parking Two-minute walk to village pub l £25 per person per night Minimum weekend fee of £300 for Friday/Saturday night Contact thetroakies@hotmail.com tel.01364 631544 mob. 07800513479
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FOR SALE Santorini is probably the most beautiful island in Greece and where we chose to establish our sea kayak club. In July 2011 Santorini Sea Kayak ran its first day tours and since then, more and more guests of our island join our tours and have had a memorable adventure. Santorini’s coastline offers many different venues to paddle to enjoy the dramatic landscape. Santorini Sea Kayak is running half day tours on double and single kayaks plus SUP tours. With our van we pick up guests from all over the island. However, it is now time to move on and therefore the company is for sale. Anyone interested should contact us via email at xaris@santoriniseakayak.com
To advertise email: ads@thepaddlerezine.com or call +44 (0)1480 465081
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A S
ABC S I M P L E
A S
A is for Adventure B is for Bushcraft C is for Canoeing
Words and photos: Richard Harpham
Some years ago a good friend of mine, Jason Ingamels, the founder of Woodland-Ways, one of the market leaders in the world of Bushcraft, invited me to the Bushcraft Show. I had no inkling of the profound impact this would have on me, our company CanoeTrail and life’s crazy paving.
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The following year I was back as the editor of the Bushcraft and Survival Skills Magazine, feeling at home in this vibrant and inspiring community of outdoor people. For me as a life long paddler, expedition leader, and human powered adventurer, I shared my technical skills with them, so this article is aimed at sharing bushcraft ideas and insight back to the paddling community.
Fundamentally there seems to be in incredible synergies, core skills and opportunities linking the values and world of adventure, bushcraft and canoeing Each of strands are like braids woven together through traditional skills, our heritage and connection to the natural world and help offer better mental well being through quality time spent outdoors. In terms of bigger expeditions, then these three elements are essential for safe and challenging journeys into the wilderness.
ADVENTURE
Adventure has been at the core of my journeying and life for almost a decade completing over 10,000 miles of human powered expeditions. My model is a simple one driven through a desire to follow traditional journeys, voyages and trails where possible making them into longer unbroken paths. Like so much of life, setting meaningful and realistic goals with short, medium and long term objectives and aspirations helps retain focus in busy lives. It did leave me feeling like ‘bananaman’ where I lived two separate lives, one away in the wilderness, increasingly at ease surrounded by huge vistas, the raw elements and honing latent skills.
These days as a coach and founder of Canoe Trail, I have the perfect job sharing my passion for the outdoors guiding people on expeditions, writing for magazines and helping people develop their adventurous side. We run two wilderness expeditions to Canada a year, to Temagami (float plane and paddling adventure) and the iconic Yukon (440-mile river journey) which helps provide my wilderness fix and ensures I get to spend almost two months a year on expedition and adventures. This is something I never take for granted and always feel inspired and humbled to be doing as a so called job!
Motivation for adventures or ‘painting your adventure canvas’ may link to a wide range of factors including: • Bucket list – searching out those iconic ‘bucket list’ trips such as canoeing the Yukon, the Great Glen Canoe Trail. • Racing – competitive challenges provide a strong foundation for training and raising your fitness and paddling skills. Examples include the Thameside, Waterside and Devizes to Westminster races. • Charity – there is a compelling call to action to complete challenges for charity, a greater sense of purpose particularly when the going gets tough. • Specific challenge – such as sea kayaking the channel, which I have completed on three occasions as part of bigger journeys. Of course this all fits well with the ethos of the British Canoeing new performance awards where paddlers,
leaders and coaches produce log books detailing rivers and open water in different geographic locations. Using maps, guide books and stories of historical paddling journeys, you can soon produce your own ever-changing menu of incredible paddling adventures. Personally I have a huge list of places I want to explore, the majority of which are around Great Britain, as our coastline and rivers offer so much in such a relatively small area. Wales and Scotland have some brilliant wilderness areas and iconic rivers and lochs, which I am desperate to explore this winter and spring.
Completing a paddling course or qualification, or joining your local kayak or canoe club, or a group like Explorers Connect is a brilliant way to find a group of like-minded enthusiasts and it is proven that undertaking outdoor activities with a group means you are significantly more likely to stick at it. My original Big 5 kayak adventures for charity including 1000 miles from Vancouver to Alaska, involved a small team where we stuck together literally through some tough times.
BUSHCRAFT
Bushcraft covers such a broad range of topics from indigenous people and traditional skills to campcraft and know how to survive and travel in the wilder parts of planet earth. For me I have always loved knots, wild camping, campfire cooking and life outdoors from the Scouts to time spent with friends at the Viking Kayak Club. My other side has been carving, crafting elements, foraging for food (beyond phoning a friend) and the tree ID aspects. One paradox I have found is that many bushcrafters fail to realise the extent of their knowledge to venture onto longer journeys like I seek to undertake. Eat. Sleep. Adventure. Repeat.
Organisations such as Woodland Ways immerse their participants in outdoor living and many opt for the ultimate test (the Woodland Wayer), a two-year course building a toolbox of skills to live, forage and survive, which they then put into practice living in the woodlands for a week. Don’t worry if that doesn’t seem practical right now then try a shorter course or bolt on some wild camping and overnighters to your paddling trips.
I have tried to summarise a range of different elements that you can practice to dip a toe further into the world of Bushcraft and Survival.
SIT SPOTS AND RE-WILDING YOURSELF
There is something cleansing and grounding about spending time away from the digital and modern world we live in the great outdoors. Sit spots are a fantastic way to connect to the natural world giving yourselves time to be in the present, reflection and quiet time. As you sit or paddle surrounded by flitting kingfishers, drying cormorants stretching their wings or deer barking, you are lost in the magic of our green and blue spaces. Venturing out or staying out at dusk brings owls hunting, badgers patrolling and other wild families out and about. The longer you wait the more nature comes to you if you sit quietly and listen.
“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new lands but seeing with new eyes.” As the French Writer Marcel Proust said,
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ThePADDLER 112 THE CRAFTY SIDE – CARVING, CORDAGE AND MAKING STUFF
Carving is a great restorative skill delivering a huge personal satisfaction at manufacturing and hand crafting utilitarian objects and beautiful pieces. From simple spatulas, spurtles, spoons and pot hangers, they can really make camp life easier. As your skills improve you can progress to beautiful bowls and ornate works of art.
Making cordage from nettles or other plants is also fun and although that may seem a little time consuming, it is worth remembering that not more than 150 years ago, hemp rope was mainstream and was a whole industry.
CAMPCRAFT
I tend to vary my camping systems from simple tarps, bivvy bags through to tents (groundwellers). I also love nothing more than to string a hammock with an evenk hitch and drift off to sleep gently swinging between two trees (tree swingers). Having a range of options is fantastic depending on the mode of travel, canoe, kayak or SUP. Tarps (develop your tarpology),
Off grid on the Yukon River
hammocks and bivvy bags are as lightweight as you can get and offer that chance to feel refreshed sleeping out under the stars.
From a survival perspective it is also good to have the knowledge to make improvised shelters from scrub and branches through to snow holing (not usually found when canoeing or kayaking).
CAMPFIRE COOKING AND FIRE LIGHTING
With the advent of the Great British Bake Off we have found participants of our adventure school programmes, dads, lads, mums and kids keen to get their bake on. The purchase of a reflector oven or Dutch oven, literally means the sky is the limit, from simple Bannock breads to full on 4-5 dish meals. Vegetarian options also mean you can enjoy fresh food for 1-2 weeks supplemented with free-range chorizo and smoked meats. I usually supplement these foods with a mix of dried extreme adventure foods, which offer high protein and a mix of vitamins in either a dehydrated or wet ration and are delicious.
Learn to light fires with ferrous rods, fire steels, flints and even friction. Fire lighting with bow and drill. As many will know there is nothing like the first time! Watching your tinder bundle ignite into flames is an incredible connection to our ancestors.
FORAGING,TREE AND PLANT ID
A little bit of foraging can start with blackberries, sea weeds and muscles to add to paellas through to puff ball mushrooms in garlic. Of course make sure you know what you are consuming, as eating the wrong mushrooms can be fatal! Learn about the trees and plants as well such as willow, cherry and English maple and all of their unique properties.
C IS FOR CANOEING
As an intro to canoeing using it as a generic term, of course means canoes, kayaks and stand up paddle boards, tools for adventure and journeying. The skills are of course transferable and therefore the adventure and journeying theme means most people would be happy with any craft.
For adventure and bushcraft purposes then developing expedition skills and traditional (trad) skills are recommended if not essential. Here are some of the ones I recommend you embrace…
NAVIGATION
In a digital world there is a risk that paper maps could become obsolete and we become reliant on GPS as our primary source of information. For me I love paper maps and see them as an inspiration and library of new adventures. On our Duke of Edinburgh programmes, it is interesting to watch students wrestle with navigation, usually for the first time. Like many skills – ‘practice makes permanent’ so keeping your skills current and honed is important. Being able to read the lie of the land, maintain a sense of direction, observe natural features and points of interest all help. Beyond this pacing or logging speed over time helps know where you are as well as orientating the map and bearings. Once you have mastered this, move on to night navigation as a new challenge. A GPS can then be your back up, I carry a Garmin In-Reach and Topo Map Etrex as back ups.
Do try this at home or in the outdoors Damper breads: bread and water, take butter, cinnamon and jam to spice it up. Bannock bread: raisins, spices, flour, butter (premix in a bag). Smors: the traditional marshmallow and chocolate biscuit. Root veg hash browns: sweet potatos, onions, eggs, flour, paprika and cumin. Vegetarian Thai Green (one pot curry) plus rice (second pot). ThePADDLER 113
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Ash portaging
Hauling pak boats on the North Seal River
LINING AND TRACKING
The physical geography of rivers to lakes and their formation means different features, pools, drops and rapids brought about by the erosion of the surface terrain. Lining and tracking are great skills to have to manoeuvre canoes up and down sections of rapids (usually as a result of harder bedrock). Although these skills are taught on canoe leader and advanced canoe leader courses, it is often neglected as a skill that people practice and lock in. Make sure you have enough line on the bow and stern and maintain a good position of control using a combination of stern line orientation with both lines providing forward momentum. The trim of your canoe and use of cradles can help avoid upset craft and the odd drama.
Poling and snubbing are a fantastic way to spend a few hours wrestling with the elements moving up and down white water. Start on the nursery slopes and dress for the occasion (we are all between falling in). There are two main stances for poling and snubbing, feet parallel (regular stance) and one foot behind and facing perpendicular (guide stance). Connectivity is important for efficient poling or snubbing so having your legs against a seat or thwart helps with this. Learn to power your canoe upstream with the pole connected to the river bed, walk your hands with the pole stationary and propel the craft forward. Work between a power phase with bent knees and pushing, versus a stationary phase holding position using the pole. Trim the canoe bow heavy snubbing downstream and stern heavy upstream. Go for it.
PORTAGING
Portaging may sound like fools folly (interesting one of the most incredible portages I did was on the spit from Oliver’s Inlet to Fool’s Inlet near Juneau on the Inside Passage) but it means you can connect different bits of water adding to the variety. Of course much of the Canadian interior was explored by pioneers (First Nation and later) by men and women who portaged vast distances. Technique involves flipping the canoe on your shoulders utilising the carrying yoke. Rollers made from improved flotsam and logs can help move laden craft such as sea kayaks to help avoid long carries when the tide is out.
Pizza reflector oven
SAILING
Improvised sailing is a fantastic was to travel in canoes from a simple ‘downwind leg’ using a coat, tarp or old sail through to large sailing rigs making a tripod or A frame. We have enjoyed many great sailing runs on Loch Ness and other Scottish lochs. On these bigger open water stretches, we raft up two or more canoes for stability to de-risk the chance of a capsize. We generally trail a swim line in case anyone falls in.
LEADERSHIP AND DECISION-MAKING
Make a plan with extraction points based on changes in weather or conditions. The acronym CLAP is useful as leaders based on:
C L A P
Communications, Line of sight, Avoidance – is better than cure Position of max usefulness.
Agree these elements with the team, as it is important for example not to be out of sight or shouting range.
LEARN RESCUES
Learn some practical tips for rescuing yourself and others, check the weather and know that you are facing so you can match your skills to the conditions. According to a British Canoeing report, tragically there were five fatalities in paddlesport in 2018 and of course no one sets out to have an accident! Learn the basics of selfrescue whatever the craft such as eskimo roll in a warm pool or curling/T rescues in canoes. Skills like pulley systems (mechanical advantage) for pinned canoes and kayaks, or throw lines for rescuing team mates needs to be practised so you can avoid being rusty. Food for thought I hope for people to spend more time outdoors, learning traditional skills, journeying and adventuring following in ancient footsteps.
BUSHCRAFT SOCIETY
A useful new community in the world of bushcraft is the Bushcraft Society, which offers, talks, online resources and different weekend courses throughout the year to its members at a subsidized rate. Once again Jason from Woodland Ways has led the way with the introduction of this new society, of which I am proud to be part of the management board.
Tel: 01732 886688 Email: info@kentcanoes.co.uk KAYAKS|CANOES COURSES TECHNICAL CLOTHING|SAFETY ACCESSORIES KAYAKS|CANOES|COURSES|TECHNICAL GEAR|ACCESSORIES CLOTHING SAFETY GEAR
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Fun, unpredictable and slightly uncomfortable… S U P I N G
…
GANDAKI
T h E
L O w E r
K a L I
Words and photos: Liam Kirkham Some adventures you undertake are those you have dreamt about for years. In the meticulous planning you have traipsed all over Google Earth, earth, devoured blogs, memorised the guidebook and spent hours poring over Facebook reviews before finally booking a flight and committing. Others come about because you bought a plane ticket when you were drunk.This is about one of those adventures.
Over the last few years I’ve invested a large amount of time and money in going on ‘trips’ or ‘adventures,’ normally involving a kayak. Many of my best experiences and most interesting friendships have been born from days floating down a whitewater river in a little plastic tub. I value time on the river so much that when my friends and I were evicted from our lovely rental house after four years, I was ecstatic rather than upset.Why? Because the landlord refunded my deposit, and with that I funded a trip to Idaho and Pacific North West America with some friends. A trip I thought I was going to have to miss.With the flights covered, I saved the rest through selling old gear on eBay and laying off even the smallest luxuries for a few months. Eviction complete, bags packed and other belongings scattered between friends and charity shops, I boarded the plane.
I embraced this new ‘freedom’ happily. Months passed sleeping alongside rivers, under trees, on friends’ sofas and, more than once, in a cold warehouse full of kayaks. It was a blast. (Though my long-suffering girlfriend may disagree). Since then, despite my best efforts, I seem to have grown up. I live in a house, pay bills and even have a baby daughter; the baby paraphernalia really limits the space available for new kit. I even – whisper it – have a slow cooker.
Though I know time outdoors is good for me, it’s easy not to go on an adventure.Very easy. Of course it is. But I have found one easy, fool-proof way of making time. It’s not necessarily advisable (nor is the adventure itself) but by taking a strong irreversible decision, such as spending several hundred pounds on a flight, you kick yourself into action.
As I busy myself about my day I try to ignore the angry, energetic chimp residing in my brain, shouting out in frustration. “Oi fat boy! What we gonna do this year?” If he gets too loud I pacify him by reading guidebooks, tracing maps or (worst of all) buying some kit that I ‘really need.’ In truth that’s not enough. It’s feeding the chimp a mere breadstick.
With no trip on the horizon and no idea in mind, I floated through the days, weeks and months. I glued myself to Netflix, binging on those programmes that are irresistibly entertaining yet utterly forgettable. One good idea (paddle boarding form Bath to Big Ben) didn’t happen, with the real but cliched excuses: a lack of time and money, and the option to continually delay.The now dog-eared books, annotated maps and scribbled plans, evidence of once strong enthusiasm, were discarded in the corner of the office, atop guides for other places to which I am yet to go.
A while after the launch that never was, my mind drifted towards Nepal as I supped a pint. I’ve had the good fortune to visit several times, both as a guide and a tourist. Nepal is synonymous with adventure. High Himalaya for mountaineering, green foothills for long treks, incredible white water: Nepal has it all. I sat thinking back of evenings spent in Kathmandu, and its dusty but oddly pleasant tourist centre,Thamel. It’s a maze of shops selling ‘authentic’ Nepalese artefacts and decent knockoff gear, with hundreds of steaming eateries. Many of the thin alleyways snake their way to beautiful hidden courtyard cafes. In many of them you will find a bunch of kayakers nestled in a corner, sun-kissed and smiling after a week on the popular Sun Kosi River.
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Miles away, sat in my local,
I pulled out my phone and browsed flight comparison sites.With all the certainty of someone on their third pint, I hit ‘buy’ on some very cheap – but very nonrefundable – tickets for a few weeks away. I had backed myself into a corner.Twelve days in Nepal with no idea what to do whilst there. It was a bad plan, but a bad plan is better than no plan. I was committed, and the chimp in my head roared excitedly
But what to do? I considered kayaking, packrafting or trekking but the hangover of my failed paddle board trip was still lingering. I searched for appropriate lakes and rivers in Nepal, but quickly realised a river would be more exciting. The river needed to meet two requirements. First, it had to be a class 3 max, as I had never paddled boarded white water before. Second, it needed to be long enough to give a sense of a proper journey. My guidebook had one that ticked both boxes: the Lower Kali Gandaki. 135km of class 2/3. Perfect.
“Life is too short but in the wrong company life can be too f***ing long.” – Tommy Tiernan
MY FRIEND RICH
When thinking about who to adventure with, it’s easy to think, “The more the merrier,” or politely say, “Yeah of course your new partner can join,” but in truth it’s important to think carefully about your travel companions. My head hurt at the thought of organising a group, but going with one other can be risky. My friend Rich came to mind – we are close mates, lived together and I was even a groomsman at his wedding.
That said, I’d hesitate to say we get on well. Our friendship is built on bickering.We can chat pleasantly, disagree violently or sit in happy silence, each equally comfortably. He’s somebody I can trust, somebody dependable. (Apart from that time when our night out ended up with me being rescued by the fire service and passed into the back of a police car whilst he had disappeared. But that’s a story for another time).
Despite these attributes, Rich lacked one thing: experience. He had never done a river trip, owned no kit and didn’t understand anything about white water or camping. In total he had spent one wobbly halfhour on a paddle board. Like me, he was a new father with little time to practice and a lot of reasons not to
go. “Fancy an adventure?” I texted. “Where? Maybe.” His hesitance was fair; our last trip had been a multiday hike in Scotland that he was physically and mentally scarred by. “Nepal” I replied. He shot back instantly “Oooowww,” which I optimistically interpreted as excitement rather than a howl of pain.
Five months, several hundred texts, several re-packs of our bags, and one paddle board session later it was time for Nepal. On a breezy April afternoon we were dropped by a taxi next to the river in the village of Ramdi. We spread our kit on the beach and pumped up our inflatable 13-foot paddle boards. Organisation was sacrificed at the altar of excitement and we stuffed our bags haphazardly with food, tents, sleeping bags and everything else before strapping them to the boards.
FIRST WW THEORY SESSION
There was a rapid to get us started straight away. Though as a kayaker I could read the smooth tongues of water, eddies and slow flows, I could tell from Rich’s face he could only see a confusing mess of fast flowing water and pointy rocks.We climbed on to a boulder and looked down at the water as I gave Rich his first white water theory session, in the middle of Nepal 135km upstream from our final destination.
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FALLING ROCKS
We were set to go when we heard an ominous rumble, and we saw something splash in the water. I was confused, but not for long as we saw several more boulders smash into the water. We looked up to see a dusty bulldozer working up on a cliff, clearing a road high up the river. Rich looked queasy, but based on the trajectory of the falling rocks I was confident we could hit the target pool and paddle well away from the boulders. Rich trusted me (amazingly) and we headed out to the Kali Gandhi, down the first rapid and away from the rockfall. As ever, the water looked a lot smaller and slower from the bottom than it had done from the top.
technique improved
We started to discuss in more detail how better to paddle the rapids, and his quickly – the paddling more considered, the angles neater and his power more controlled The first camp was beautiful, a high bedrock ledge on the riverside. At the top were pockets of soft sand and clumps of firewood. We set up our sleeping spots, the nearby cat prints encouraging us to huddle closer than we otherwise might have. We passed the event trying (and failing) to organise our gear, eating rice and staring at the sky, congratulating ourselves on surviving the first day.
We woke at sunrise and eagerly set upon the water before 08.00.When it was flat we could chat and enjoy the view, but these moments were quickly interrupted by long bumpy sections littered with large rocks. Enjoying the challenge, I tried to stay upright as much as I could, with varying degrees of success.
Rich ‘kayaked’ the board down them, aided by the paddles we had brought in anticipation of such challenges. Neither of us cared too much about these different methods. We were there for some fun and time away, neither of us purists. This didn’t mean Rich avoided swimming, though. Early that morning Rich overcooked a turn and was lurched into the water. He bobbed to the surface panicking, frantically looking for the board that was leashed to his waist. I smiled and nodded at him, trying to convey some reassurance.
Calmed, he found the paddle and scrabbled back on the board. After we drifted further he began to
settle, and with each successive capsize his confidence in self-rescue grew. We started to discuss in more detail how better to paddle the rapids, and his technique improved quickly – the paddling more considered, the angles neater and his power more controlled. Paddle boarding, like kayaking, involves a nasty paradox: you must relax to be good, but it’s difficult to relax until you are good.
Picking a camp was difficult. Ideally we wanted something to ourselves, but so often there’s a small bridge leading to a village. Though I have never had a bad experience in Nepal, I felt very aware there were only two of us, sleeping on the side of the river in a remote area with expensive and unusual kit around us. Eventually we found a small semisecluded patch of sand behind thick scrubland. It was soon home and we settled down for the night.
After a few hours of fitful sleep Rich shouted, “Should we be worried about that?” Thunder rolled towards us, thick and menacing clouds filling the sky. As we considered putting up our tents the rain began to fall in fat drops that left violent indents in the soft sound. If the river did rise much this perfect semi-circle of sand would quickly flood. We popped up our tents as the rain intensified. I drifted quickly back to sleep, but woke an hour later worried the river was creeping up. The rain was lashing down and the lightning had moved directly above us. I felt a gurgle in my stomach followed by a jolt of pain.. The heavens had opened above us, it was the middle of the night and I needed to poo.
Immediately. I stripped in my tent to avoid my sleeping clothes being soaked and scuttled out stark naked. I hurried kicked a hole in the steep bank of sand
https://goo.gl/maps/LJzaVga8UDuLbk597
downstream and squatted like a dog shaking in the storm, laughing at the idea of somebody watching us at that point. So amused was I by this idea I stopped by Rich’s tent to tell him. He popped his head out but was too confused to speak, disgusted and amused to find me prancing naked in the storm.
TIME TO CHAT
We settled into a routine over the next few days. Rich grew more competent, talking me through his approach before executing a tricky rapid. I would nod and he would lead the way. As we covered ground more easily we could take in our surroundings more, and take time to chat to those we passed. An old farmer in a small village told me I paddled well. I complimented his excellent English, but he only shrugged his shoulders and explained his daughter was at Manchester University.
A group of strong young goat herders visited us, laughing as I tried out a few words of Nepalese.They offered a cigarette before departing and wishing us well, and I again felt bad for being anxious about the risk of our gear being nicked. Everyone we met was friendly and polite.
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Wildlife was abundant. We saw troops of monkeys on the banks moving along urgently, and were followed by a pair of inquisitive and brazen red throated martens who constantly scrabbled to get a better view of us. We occasionally treated ourselves to a floating snooze, laying in just shorts and t-shirts whilst we basked in the sun. Though our eyes closed we remained on amber alert for the noise of the next rapid, conscious too of the piles of stones along the river. The Kali Gandhi is a holy river and underneath these stones were the remains of those who lived and died nearby. In a few months the high water of the monsoon would wash them away.
The machinery we had occasionally seen earlier on, noisily dredging gravel from the river, had disappeared and the surroundings grew prettier. The banks comprised of dense tree line punctuated by small settlements with terraces and green fields. The water was darkened brown by the rain. After a while a tricky rapid came into view before the river became squeezed by steep cliffs. We had reached the gorge, a section not far fro our planned take out. The rapid led to what was by far the most beautiful spot we had seen so far. It buoyed us, and we became chatty and giddy as we pulled over for an early camp. With the beach to ourselves and no one in sight, we draped out kit over rocks to try and lay on our matts to read in the heat. We even took our soap into the river for a swim and a wash. Bliss. This spot in the Kali Gandaki Gorge wouldn’t have felt half as special if we had taken a taxi. We had earned this.
ALMOST AT THE END
On day five we left the gorge and paddled past waterfalls. Not crashing loud waterfalls but thin ribbons of white tracing the rusty cliffside until they silently hit the floor. As we chewed sandy Nutella wraps for lunch, we realised we had made such good progress we were almost at the end of the river. The river was more open now and, with more people along the bank, we knew we couldn’t top the previous camp and agreed to push on to our take out.
Rich powered ahead, fuelled by the desire for a hot shower, and I followed on with no hope of matching his pace. Within 25 minutes we had deflated our boards, trekked to the roadside and flagged down a tuk-tuk. We squeezed all of our kit and our bodies into a tiny vehicle each. Our drivers became competitive and raced each other through the town. It was the perfect way to end our adventure. Fun, unpredictable and slightly uncomfortable.
RADAR
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U N D E R
2
T H E
Hidden gems that no one talks about around the Great Lakes. Part two
Words: Traci Lynn Martin The beauty and splendor of the Great Lakes is intoxicating. From a distance, they seem to be just another large body of water to be paddled, explored, and conquered. But once there, the magic, beauty, and raw power of the lakes are enchanting.There is an aura of majesty, strength, violence, and grace captured in the lakes which changes with the seasons.Without warning, they imprison your soul - your spirit will be forever changed.
During my ten-month expedition in 2017, I was fortunate enough to experience both the volatile power and the peaceful calmness of these inland seas. It can be challenging to explain the allurement – to be gently riding soft waves and listening to the songs of the birds which are your ever present companions, then without warning the wind changes direction and the lake awakens, angry at being disturbed. One-foot gentle waves become six-foot of frenzied agitation in less than 20 minutes.
In part one, I described a few of my favourite locations that I plan to return to. In part two, I would like to share some of my more challenging treasured places, that in my opinion, would make for an amazing multiday paddling exploration.
12 MILE BEACH - GRAND MARAIS, MI - LAKE SUPERIOR
12 Mile Beach is part of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, which is located on the south shore of Lake Superior in Michigan’s upper peninsula. This National Lakeshore stretches 42 miles (67 km) from Grand Marais to Munising. Many paddlers have heard of Pictured Rocks, the popular 15 miles of spectacular multicoloured cliffs. However, fewer paddlers are aware of the other fantastic sights seen from the water’s edge: five miles of massive sand dunes (Grand Sable Dunes), a sentinel lighthouse protecting vessels from the rocky cliffs (Au Sable Light Station), rarely visited waterfall (Spray Falls), and 12 miles of beautiful beach coastline.
Grand Marais, a gentle town and the eastern gateway to Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, is the best place to start your paddling expedition. I stayed one night at the Superior Hotel, an old style boarding house where rooms start at just $40 a night.The decor is fabulous with bygone nautical furnishings and the hosts are truly warmhearted. Other amenities include a microbrewery, a tavern and a restored Paramount diner.The town has four unique museums, all with a special focus.The Gitche Gumee Agate Museum showcases the area’s rich geology and the Lightkeeper’s House takes one back in time to the turn of the 20th century. Paddlers will also find a valuable outfitter’s store in town.
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After leaving the harbour of Grand Marais, you will paddle a short three miles before reaching the impressive Grand Sable Dunes.These dunes tower 300 feet above the lake and are powerful to paddle beside. They are one of the best examples of a perched dune system in the world. Perched dunes are those that form on top of an already existing coastal bluff. One and a half miles past the dunes is Au Sable Light Station. I didn’t stop at the Lightstation, but my understanding is that you can pull off and tour the grounds. Built in 1884, it’s on the National Register of Historic Places and remains a working lighthouse.
Two miles past the light station begins 12 Mile Beach, a gorgeous shoreline, which felt like I was paddling along a remote tropical seashore. Depending on where you land, it’s primarily sandy, but as you get closer to Pictured Rocks, you begin to discover beautiful pebbles of all colours. At night the Milky Way shines down across the open lake. There is nothing better than falling asleep to the sound of the rolling waves of Lake Superior.
The mornings bring beautiful pink sunrises with low hanging fog drifting across the open water. The solitude was peaceful.
Once past 12 Mile Beach, the landscape begins to get more rocky with small sea caves and waterfalls - the largest being Spray Falls. A few miles past this area, you will begin to paddle into the more popular area of Pictured Rocks, which are amazing in foggy conditions and mesmerizing in bright sunlight. Miners Beach is a good take out spot.
Words of caution: the weather can be unpredictable. Fog often drifts in from off the lake, even when the sun is shining, which leaves an eerie orb shimmering through the misty sky. Be prepared to paddle in fog so thick that it’s hard to see much past the end of your kayak.
This area is notorious for swarms of biting flies (Stable Fly), which are blood feeders. As long as you're
wearing a drysuit, you’re protected, but they can easily bite through camp clothes. This adventure must be done wearing a drysuit, or else you will lose your mind. Bug spray will do nothing to deter the flies. Be careful to protect your head. They took chunks out of the top of my head, which left bleeding sores that took a month to heal.
There’s a lot to view and discover along this scenic shoreline. For me, the flies did not detract from the allure of the area. My personal recommendation – a short 35-mile paddle, pulling out at Miners Beach or a Longer 55-mile paddle to AuTrain beach. Bill Priesman, a local man from Grand Marais, who owns Hauling Assets, will pick you up and transport you back to your car.
TACONITE HARBOR TO SPLIT ROCK STATE PARK – NORTH SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR
If time is limited, yet you want to enjoy the natural beauty and drama that the north shore of Lake Superior has to offer, then this is your destination. It’s a 35-mile (56 km) paddle that begins at Taconite Harbor in Schroeder, Minnesota. The old loading dock and railroad facilities at Taconite Harbour is impressive to paddle past. I made the time to stop at the Sugarloaf Nature Center.
The knowledge gained was well worth the time spent hiking the woodland trails and discussing its history with the curator.The shoreline itself varies from wooden boreal forest to beaches composed of ages past basalt lava flows and extremely hard volcanic rock. Dark rocks are covered with orange lichen, which looks like fields of pumpkins from a distance.The landscape ranges from black boulders, to Vesicular Basalt and black-white rocks with visible crystals, to a smooth black glassy shoreline. Split Rock Lighthouse is 54-foot tall and rests on top of cliffs that rise 130 feet above the lake.The view from atop this lighthouse is priceless.
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KEWEENAW PENINSULA – LAKE SUPERIOR
The Keweenaw Peninsula is the northernmost part of Michigan's Upper Peninsula and is commonly referred to as ‘copper country’. This paddling destination will dazzle you with miles of rocky cliffs where you can explore a chain of barrier islands, paddle under rocky archways, explore remote sea caves and unique rock formations such as sea stacks, paddle past remote waterfalls and untamed wilderness. Many kayakers consider this area a hidden gem and a world-class sea kayaking destination.The cliffs that I paddled past on the eastern side of the peninsula were the most beautiful brilliant orange that I have ever seen in my life; it even rivalled Pictured Rocks with its stunning symmetry and colours.The amazing attribute of this paddling adventure is that you can paddle a complete loop around the peninsula via Portage Lake. This entire 135-mile (217 km) loop is very challenging due to the erratic fierce waves and forceful winds of Lake Superior. Its remote location, rocky shoreline with few places to safely land and potential for dangerous weather makes this destination appropriate for only experienced kayakers whom are comfortable with rough water or rock gardening.
KILLARNEY TO HEN ISLAND, GEORGIAN BAY – LAKE HURON
Georgian Bay is located in Ontario, Canada – a 5,792 square mile bay of Lake Huron. It contains over 30,000 islands, and is commonly referred to as the Sixth Great Lake by those who live around its massive 1,240 miles (1,996 km) of granite shoreline. The eastern shoreline of Georgian Bay has been argued by many as being the best freshwater archipelago sea kayaking area in the world. It is a mesmerizing maze of thousands of islands, some so small there is barely room to land your kayak and pitch your tent, while others are large enough to hide their own fresh water lakes – yet all have the characteristic smooth granite shoreline.
A few of these islands are bare of any vegetation, and I imagined that I had landed on the back of some ancient sea turtle. Many of the islands contain scattered white pine trees, small pools filled with warm water, spectacular glacial grooves and striations, a variety of butterflies and water fowl, and small purple flowers growing up between the rocks.The entire area is entrancing with its raw pristine expanse of wilderness.
Collins Inlet was the route that I took in 2017 due to the strong winds that were causing havoc along the open water shoreline. This passage is 13 miles through a wooded landscape, coming out at Beaverstone Bay. From there, head south for six miles to reach the Chickens.
The Chickens is comprised of hundreds of small granite islands strewn together over a distance of one and a half miles. It was enjoyable to paddle through this labyrinth – stopping to pick up random pieces of driftwood so that I could enjoy a small fire in the evening.
Hen Island is the largest island in this maze and it lies on the eastern side of the Chickens. It has a natural harbour, which includes a sandy beach, making this spot ideal for swimming. It has numerous large rocks to climb and explore. In the distance, I could see the La Cloche mountain range. All around the island, the haunting call of the loons could be heard across the lake.
Killarney, Ontario Canada is where this paddling adventure begins. Canoes or kayaks can be rented from Killarney Outfitters, as well as having shuttle services. Owner Ted East took time out of his busy day to go over my charts and pointed out areas that I needed to be aware of as I paddled through this remote wilderness.
When you leave Killarney, begin paddling northeast. Approximately six miles into your paddle, you will need to make a decision on the route. Less experienced paddlers should take Collins Inlet, a passage between the mainland and the north shoreline of Phillip Edward Island, which bypasses the unpredictable open waters of Georgian Bay. Experienced paddlers can challenge themselves by paddling on the unprotected south shoreline of the Island.
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Two miles east of Hen Island is an area called Point Grondine. If you reach this area, be careful.There is a shallow shelf, two miles long, that extends out towards the open lake for four miles. If a southwest or southeast wind is blowing towards this point, as the water hits this shallow shelf, the waves quickly build into an anomaly, growing three times the predicted size. Monitor the Canadian Marine Forecast on your weather radio, which is extremely accurate for 36 hours out. If they predict an average wave height in Georgian Bay of 3-4 feet (one-metre), then Point Grondine will be 12 feet (3.6 metres).
If solitude and open space are what you’re seeking, you’ll find them in abundance on this destination. Be advised that this trip involves long stretches of open water so paddlers should be comfortable with threefoot (one-metre) waves and strong winds.
RESOURCES
For more information about Traci’s 2017 record attempt or her 2020 upcoming expedition, visit her website at: www.justaroundthepointe.com/
Twitter @StellarTourD4ce
Facebook: Justaroundthepointe
Hauling Assets Bill Priesman Contact on (517) 599-7806
Killarney Outfitters Ted East Contact on (705) 287-2828
ULTRALIGHT KAYAKS award winning design, class leading construction.
WWW.TOOTEGA.COM
7-BRIDGE
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M O R L E Y ’ S
C H A L L E N G E
Words and photos: Priscilla Schlottman In December 2018, along with eight potential paddlers, I received an email from Sean Morley. Matt Krizan, Bert Vergara and I had completed our Farallon Islands Paddle two months prior. I assumed it was that fact, which landed us on this rather elite mailing list. Sean requested we save the date for April 20th, 2019 and presented a 7-Bridge Challenge in his email. Ultimately, only the three of us accepted the challenge.
Two weeks before the paddle, Sean dropped out but encouraged us to move ahead with our plans. Sean conceptualized this as, “A challenge that could be done at any time, and you just share your track and time and see if anyone can beat it… you need to pass fully under each bridge, including the Golden Gate Bridge before turning around.”
The entire flow of current in the San Francisco Bay is controlled by the Golden Gate. At ebb tide, the water rushes out of the Gate, and at flood it rushes into the Gate. Breathing like that twice a day, every day.The crux of the 7 Bridge Challenge is to start in the North Bay at the Benicia Bridge at slack-to-ebb, follow the current as it’s sucked to its source at the Golden Gate Bridge, turn tail at the Golden Gate Bridge as the tide changes, and ride the flood to the South Bay.Timing is crucial because paddling with this ebb/flood cycle is the key to success. Poor timing results in a battle against the current, and will decrease the chance of making it to the Dumbarton Bridge while there is still enough water to land. A football field sized mudflat appears at the west end of the Dumbarton Bridge when the tide drops below 4.5 feet.
BELOW IS THE ROUTE:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Launch: Benicia-Martinez Bridge Carquinez Bridge Richmond-San Raphael Bridge Golden Gate Bridge Bay Bridge San Mateo Bridge Land: Dumbarton Bridge
APRIL 19TH, 2019
6 miles 16.4 miles 7.9 miles 6.1 miles 16.2 miles 8.9 miles
total 6 miles total 22.4 miles total 30.3 miles total 36.4 miles total 52.6 miles total 61.5 miles
Launch is in 17 hours.The wind prediction is troubling. I’m starting to think we’re crazy to do this.The base winds look ok – 10 knots but with headwinds predicted to gust up to 20 knots at launch. Ouch! A gift at the Golden Gate – 15-knot base (up to 24-knot gust) tail winds from the Golden Gate Bridge to Pier 39. Add that to our budding flood and that small hand full of miles will be turbo charged. And the last stretch? Well, at least it’s not a headwind. Cross winds over our right shoulder, base over 20 knots (gusts up to 36 knots) now predicted for the final 25 miles.
Bert is afraid the wind will slow us and we won’t be able to land. Mudflats will take over the landing zone, and the later we are, the more mud. During a training paddle a few weeks prior, I had hoped to launch from the west end of the Dumbarton Bridge.When I arrived there the tide was at about one foot.The whole place was a stinking mudflat.We would need at least 4.5 feet of water to land.
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Benicia Bridge launch spot
Bert is afraid the wind will slow us and we won’t be able to land. Mudflats will take over the landing zone, and the later we are, the more mud. During a training paddle a few weeks prior, I had hoped to launch from the west end of the Dumbarton Bridge. When I arrived there the tide was at about one foot. The whole place was a stinking mudflat. We would need at least 4.5 feet of water to land.
That fact stole my breath as I considered what it would be like to paddle over 60 miles only to be unable to land, unable to exit my boat without sinking knee deep in sludge, unable to reach solid ground. I remember wondering why Sean chose such a desolate and disgusting landing zone.
We’re all on edge. Matt has decided to launch at midnight to improve his chances of current assisting the last half of the paddle and to avoid the mudflat problem at the Dumbarton Bridge. To attain those benefits, he has to sacrifice the benefit of launching with the budding ebb. Instead, he’ll launch into opposing current. I’m unwilling to make that sacrifice. I agree to launch at 3:30 AM, against the last remnants of flood in Benicia. Bert and I plan to launch together, though we know we’ll be separated at some point.
APRIL 20, 2019
The alarm sounds at 02:10 and Bert and I drag ourselves out of bed. A text from Matt confirms he launched at midnight into the flood. We’re in Benicia at the home of a friend who kindly drives us to the base of the Benicia-Martinez Bridge at 03:00. There are train tracks and some rocks to contend with at the launch site, both worth it to save us paddling 1.2 miles in the wrong direction at the outset of the paddle. Sean’s rules state we need to paddle beneath each of the seven bridges.
Launching from the Martinez Marina as Matt has means starting a 60+ mile adventure by paddling over a mile in the wrong direction. Just the psychology of that is enough to make me happy to dodge trains and wade over rocks into
polluted water to avoid it. Upon arrival we find an actual train and no beach to launch from. The tide has risen just enough to pull the water over the small beach we saw upon scouting. The wind is howling.
03:30-04:33:
BENICIA-MARTINEZ BRIDGE TO CARQUINEZ BRIDGE (SIX MILES)
Surges of adrenaline at launch propel us forward into the 15-20 knot winds. We launch about 30 minutes before slack into and against the remaining flood. I stay close to Benicia, having observed a wide eddy there at dinner the night before. Bert moves out toward the middle of the channel. Our glow sticks do not help maintain visibility at that distance and I lose sight of him before reaching the Carquinez Bridge. I predicted I would reach the bridge at 05:00 but am there 27 minutes ahead of schedule.
04:33-07:30:
CARQUINEZ BRIDGE TO RICHMOND BRIDGE/RED ROCK (16.4 MILE SEGMENT/22.5 MILES TOTAL)
The wind is strong and it remains very dark. The full moon provides some ambient light but not enough to read my compass. The current in this spot is odd and it takes me longer to travel the short distance to Davis Point than I had hoped. Rounding Davis Point at 04:58, I realize that I can’t see Pinole Point – my next
landmark. Earlier, at launch, I had hastily decided I did not need my waterproof flashlight on my deck and stashed it in the day hatch. Now, I desperately need it to see the compass. Unfortunately, the water is choppy, the wind and dark make it even more difficult to access my day hatch.
More and more water floods in as I feel around blindly in the hatch with one hand for the flashlight. I abort that idea and try to use my camera flash to read the chart on my deck. No good, flash does not stay on long enough. I strain my eyes toward the horizon and make out a black-on-gray blob that I think might be Point Pinole and head for that. I’m hoping day will start to break and confirm my guess. Paddling off in the wrong direction at this point might be a deal breaker.
The six-mile stretch between Davis Point and Pinole Point in San Pablo Bay is demanding.
Waves swamp my deck in the dark, compromise stability and have the potential to slow my progress. At 05.00, navigating swells that remain invisible until they’re a foot in front of my bow takes all of my concentration.
Dawn reveals that my directional guess is correct. I come a bit wide around Pinole Point and falter. My next destination is The Brothers, two little islands off the tip of Point San Pablo, but I’ve never paddled this section before. During practice, I came toward The Brothers from the direction of Angel Island. I have no idea what they look like from this direction. My head tells me stay far left; my gut tells me to veer right. I decide to rely on my compass heading. I take a moment to move lines and gear aside to read the heading I gave myself from Pinole Point to The Brothers.
My compass points me toward three trees on a tiny island about five miles away. But I know The
Staging to launch under Benicia Bridge ThePADDLER 135
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Brothers are a set of two islands, and I hope my compass is right and that the other island is just hidden from view. Choppy, messy, muddy water. No sign of Bert as I scan all around me. It occurs to me that despite lots of night paddling, neither of us has ever paddled solo in the dark. I become increasingly concerned about him. I know he must be feeling the same way about me.
I know he’ll be worried that the Mysterioso top I have on (I also hastily decided I did not need a splash jacket or semi dry top) will not be warm enough to stave off hypothermia. I know he will worry because my radio is in my day hatch and not my PFD. If I come out of my boat and separated from it in this wind, I have no hope of rescue and will succumb to hypothermia before anyone realizes I’m missing. Bert at least has on a drysuit and has his radio in his PFD. I reassure myself with those two facts.
A sense of relief blossoms as the three trees present themselves as the larger of The Brother Islands. The distance between The Brothers and Red Rock is only about 2.5 miles. The Richmond Bridge lies between the two. I decide I’ll land on Red Rock and text our safety coordinator Jess to let her know both my location and that we launched on time. I also plan to mention that I have lost sight of Bert.
My relief at identifying The Brothers is short-lived. The water around The Brothers is boiling. It is max ebb here (-2.86 knots) and the water is chaos. I had planned to stay wide and outside of both islands, but that does not happen. I cut the corner too close around the point and am sucked violently through the narrow between Point San Pablo and the first island. I fight it for a few minutes. My struggle results in my nearly being hurled into a red buoy. I decide to go with the water, after all it’s trying to take me in the direction I need to travel; it just seems to have its own thoughts about the line I should take.
Once I let the water take the lead, my balance improves and my speed increases. Things calm down enough right before the Richmond Bridge that I’m able to balance and take a photo. Then I fly under the bridge and into Red Rock – literally! My plan was to touch down on the west side of Red Rock, but the current flings me straight onto the rockiest part of the north shore. I stumble out, having completed the first third of the journey. Twenty-two miles down, another 40 to go.
It’s then that I see Bert heading toward me, much to my relief. It’s now 07:32. I look down and read a message that came in from Matt at 07:22 saying he’s in Richmond and has bailed on the paddle. It’s a
rollercoaster of emotions. I limp over to Bert and throw my arms around him. He is as giddy as I am. We briefly share stories and commiserate about conditions. I tell him about Matt. He tells me to keep going. I jump back on the water and head around the east side of the island.
07:35-09:07
RICHMOND BRIDGE (RED ROCK) TO GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE (EIGHT-MILE SEGMENT/30.4 MILES TOTAL)
that 4.5-mile stretch before the water will turn against me and staunch my progress. I go for it. The flood starts a little early, slowing me around Yellow Bluff. A mile of slog later I come under the Golden Gate Bridge. It’s 09:07. I’m almost 30 minutes ahead of my predicted schedule and I have set myself up perfectly to ride the flood all the way to the South Bay.The wind is alive beneath the Gate and blowing straight toward my next destination (just outside Pier 39), about four miles in the distance.
The weather shifts as I fly on the ebb toward Bluff Point and Raccoon Straights. I stay in deep water and let the remains of the ebb sweep me along. The wind is barely noticeable here and the sun is out. Bert and I are both ahead of schedule. It feels like the worst is over. Life is good. I round Bluff Point widely, closer to Angel Island than Tiburon, maximizing the last of the ebb.
The Golden Gate Bridge is looming ahead of me, glowing in the sunlight. Behind it, a webby mess of fog obscures the ocean. I head straight for the Golden Gate Bridge, hedging my bets and hoping to beat the onset of the flood. Slack (to flood) at the Golden Gate is predicted for 09:03. I have almost an hour to span
Richmond Bridge
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GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE TO BAY BRIDGE (SIX-MILE SEGMENT/36.4 MILES TOTAL)
With a 25-knot wind, following seas and the growing flood (max flood of 3.93 knots 0.8 miles east of GGB at 12:03 PM) all in my favour, I fly through the shipping channel toward Pier 39, maintaining a straight line and staying well offshore. I come under the Bay Bridge at 10:04. It’s taken less than an hour to travel that six miles and it’s been exhilarating. I’m now almost an hour ahead of schedule.
I haven’t seen Bert since Red Rock. The wind is wailing here, a steadily increasing crosswind smashing into my right ear. I cross under the Bay Bridge, take photos and look into the distance. There is no sign of the San Mateo Bridge, just foggy white backdrop and huge ships. I check my compass. The line I set for myself cuts straight through a field of (hopefully) anchored freighters. I double-check. The San Mateo Bridge is 16.2 miles from the Bay Bridge, the longest unbroken straight line in this paddle. I triple-check – and yes, my line goes straight through the freighters.
Golden Gate Bridge
10:04-12:33:
BAY BRIDGE TO SAN MATEO BRIDGE (16.2 MILE SEGMENT/52.6 MILES TOTAL)
I set off, aiming just to the right of the freighters, too frightened to run straight through them. This is not easy going. The crosswind is creating huge wind waves that break with frothy white hands that keep trying to shove me over. I grow chilly from water swamping my deck, flooding my lap, and pouring down the front of my top. I fight hard with sore muscles to stay upright, to make each stroke not only a strong movement forward but a well-placed brace.
I try to use the crosswind to my advantage, try to pick up a tiny thread of surf wave from the flood. Try-tryfail-correct direction. Fail-fail-try-succeed-surf. Try-tryfail-correct direction. On and on and on like that for 16 miles. The wind now topping 30 knots is treacherous and keeps me constantly alert, constantly working. My body hurts. My back aches. I stop once to check what’s between my hand and my paddle. Blisters, my own skin feels foreign to me. I again worry about Bert. I worry about me. At least I know Matt is safe on dry land, potentially stranded without a car, but safe.
Bay Bridge
12:33-14:10
SAN MATEO BRIDGE TO DUMBARTON BRIDGE (8.8 MILE SEGMENT/TOTAL 61.5 MILES)
I want to come into this last segment under the highest point of the San Mateo Bridge. The westerly wind has another idea and blows me much closer to the east side of the bridge than I planned. No photo opportunity here. Wind waves topping four feet slosh at me from what seems like six different directions as the narrow under the bridge erupts chaotically.
Suddenly, I’m under and out the other side. Only one bridge left! It’s 12:33 PM, nearly two hours ahead of schedule with 8.9 miles to go. I have the advantage of the flood (max flood San Mateo Bridge 11:48, 2.18 knots), a gift I hadn’t counted on in planning. My highest hope had been for slack. I’m too tired and too worried about Bert to feel the elation that should
come with that fact. There will be no mudflat to worry about, there will be no ebb to contend with. I register those facts and keep moving.
The final bridge, the Dumbarton, is in the distance. My landing spot is the west end of the bridge where the road leaves the water. The wind is blowing around 30 knots from the west and although the line is better than it was to the San Mateo Bridge, I still need to be careful that I’m not blown off course. The last thing I want is to be wide of my landing zone, torn beneath the bridge by the current and wind, and then, after over 60 miles of paddling, have to fight my way back to land.
I catch some nice downwind waves on my way to the Dumbarton. I’m sad that when Bert arrives here, his experience will be drastically different. The wind steadily grows as time marches on. I have the benefit of the flood. The current will be turning against Bert
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ThePADDLER 140 and the wind waves will be breaking dangerously. I sail in under the Dumbarton Bridge at 14:10. I’m two hours and 20 minutes ahead of schedule. I have almost eight feet of water over the mudflats (high tide 14:44, eight feet, Dumbarton Bridge). I still have a strong flood. I text to let the others know I reached the Dumbarton Bridge.
FINISHED
Then I realize that the cold little beach I’m sitting on beneath the bridge on the north side where I’ve landed is fenced in. This spot under the bridge is a small dark cave, weeds and water to the north and a large fence to the south. The wind is freezing me. I wonder if I can get my boat through a small hole in the fence. Nope. I struggle hard to launch off into the flood so I can paddle around the fence to the south side of the bridge.
Three failed attempts to launch into the current later, I finally make it, paddle several yards around the fence to the south side and am instantly grateful. The bridge is blocking the wind. There’s sun here and a tiny warm beach perfect to land on. I take everything out of my boat. I lay all of my gear on the rocks to dry. Matt texts back that he is reunited with his car and boat, about an hour away, heading to me.
I’m grateful for the isolation, the sun, the fact that I’m done paddling for the day. My hatches are swamped. My boat is full of water. My dry bag has done its job and my warm clothes feel wonderful. I text my mom and sister to tell them I landed. I move everything up the slope to a series of cement steps as I wait for Matt. I go around the base of the bridge to the north side multiple times to look for Bert.
Dumbarton Bridge landing at one-foot tide
Each time the water is whiter, wind waves are breaking in sets at this point. I worry. A lot. I try to radio Bert. I know he will not be able to answer, cannot take his hands off his paddle in that mess without risking falling over. Matt arrives just as I haul the last of my gear to the cement steps.
He tells me the story of why he decided to call it quits. We carry my gear to his car. It’s getting late. Past slack. The ebb is starting. No sign of Bert. We sit on a cement block and search the white and mud coloured water for him. We wish he had a spot or an inReach with him. We begin to ponder how to proceed and then at 15:36 a text comes in from him. He has landed just south of the San Mateo Bridge. We load my boat and drive to retrieve him.
Bert relays his story of being hit hard and broadside by a wind wave, capsizing just north of the San Mateo Bridge. Thankfully he rolled up. He continued under the San Mateo Bridge but needed to stop to empty his boat and try to notify us of his status. Thus far, I’m the only one to have completed Sean Morley’s 7 Bridge Challenge. My time is 10 hours and 40 minutes. Approximately 61.5 miles. Strong westerly winds for the duration.
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T H E
SEA
B I R T H
O F
Written by world travelling Canadian kayaker, Zack Kruzins I grew up in Dundas, Ontario, Canada and from a young age I was always drawn to the wilderness from family camping and interior canoe trips into Algonquin Provincial Park with scouts and my dad's yearly outing with his work buddies.The idea of travelling by water with everything you could ever need was a real appeal to me. I remember heading to northern Ontario, Canada to Thunder Bay when I was 13-years-old for the Scout Jamboree in 1997. Driving along the Lake Superior shoreline really struck me and has stuck with me ever since.
A
KAYAKER
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ThePADDLER 144 GREAT PARENTS
The big thing I did was I just got out there. When I was 17 I was going on my own canoe trips with my friends on high school weekends. I was really lucky that I had such great parents who introduced me to paddling and the outdoors at such a young age. They also saw the value in pursuing your passion and saw how passionate I was about being on the water outdoors.
I decided to return to Thunder Bay for the Outdoor Recreation, Parks and Tourism program at Lakehead University. Here I was exposed to a community of outdoor opportunity that I really thrived off of. It wasn't until the spring of my second year in 2005 where I really got introduced to a sea kayaking. I had my mind set on the canoe as the ultimate craft for wilderness travel but then I discovered the sea kayak.
We launched on a calm morning in April 2005 and broke through the ice at the mouth of the McIntyre River and were eventually in the open water of Lake Superior. I vividly remember the feeling of working so hard to get these kayaks over the ice and eventually slipping into the open cold smooth rolling swell. We paddled a really far distance straight across to Pie Island – nearly 20km.
On route we actually had to stop on a nearby seagull infested rock island and wait out a squally thunderstorm before we had sunny skies and were off to Pie again. When we got there tired and sore on the beautiful and remote shores, we looked around at each other and felt so lucky, full of such a zest for life.
That zest for life is the feeling that drives my passion for paddling.The fact that I just went and got out there gave me this.The enjoyment of making big crossings to remote islands, exploring a wild uninhabited coastline or paddling to historic light stations that tell the stories of the place from another time.
that, over a shoal, back to see that rock, cross over there, and spend time in those waves – the possibilities are endless.”
I can relate to this freedom found while paddling. It has driven me to travel the world and explore and access some spectacular places.
It is also about the people, the people I meet while paddling to unique places. The culture, the hospitality, the community; This is a big part of why I paddle and immerse myself in it all.
SAILBOAT
ACCESS
The access I could get to wide open wilderness areas with a sea kayak was just incredible. I knew I wanted to learn more about this and get more experience. The greatest thing about it is that the freedom to go anywhere exists. In 2012 I co-wrote a book with my good friend and fellow paddler, Darrell Makin.
Darrell sums it up well, “When paddling upon the lake, it’s as if there are no trails but everything is open. The freedom exists to go wherever you wish. This island or
I lived on a shared cost sailboat for a while travelling the central and south Pacific islands for nearly a full year. I figured out a way to have three sea kayaks on board and explore the possibilities of creating a guiding company, which would take people out on kayak tours and make a few bucks to eat along the way. It seemed like a simple way of life but proved to be more complicated as we were always moving. I took every opportunity to soak it up, get out and have paddling adventures each chance I got.
I got introduced to the idea of folding sea kayaks as an ability to take my proper sea kayak with me everywhere I went, as the problem I found is that many countries and cultures think a sea kayak is something you sit on top of and dink around in. I needed something more for touring, something that
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ThePADDLER 146 could cover vast areas and had the storage capacity to bring your life with you. This is simplicity at its finest.
I decided to order myself a TRAK folding kayak in April of 2014 and I had it delivered to Vancouver Island and started taking it on trips with some other friends I met in French Polynesia who had been travelling the world for nearly 15 years, making expeditions to interesting places around the world in their folding sea kayaks.
Patrice and Isabelle Duval originated in France but have lived and worked in both Reunion Island in the middle of the Indian Ocean and the Island of Moorea, part of French Polynesia, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. They used France, Reunion and Moorea as bases to make several 10+ day sea kayak expeditions.Them along with Darrell have been a big inspiration to me.
I have now have taken the TRAK kayak all over the world. I started by flying back to Australia from the west coast of Canada, finished my work contract and
hit the road exploring as much of the coast and interior of Australia as possible setting up the TRAK, paddling then collapsing it and chucking it in the back of my Subaru Outback. The thing probably got set up and taken down more than any other TRAK kayak ever. I find the idea of the TRAK kayak has really appealed to me and it has suited my lifestyle.
‘SUCH A NICE DAY (SAND) ADVENTURES’
Now having moved back to Canada, I have secured an amazing job as a sea kayak guide and zodiac boat driver for Polar Latitudes in Antarctica and I have my own paddling business based out of Thunder Bay Ontario on Lake Superior called ‘Such A Nice Day (SAND) Adventures’, (https://suchaniceday.com/). I can switch between seasons and still fill my time between with amazing adventures by watercraft to cool remote islands and cultures.
The business allows me to share amazing paddling experiences with others and hopes to get more people, particularly youth, into the lifestyle of sea kayaking at a younger age ,as there are so many ways it can enhance one’s life. Not only does it bring you closer to the water and nature but it connects you with people who love and live for the land, lakes, rivers and oceans. Paddling has the ability to promote environmental stewardship, compassion and caring for your local community and natural spaces within it.
I hope I will still be paddling late into my life as once conditioned with the proper skills and experience, the ability to sit in a boat and play will always be there. You are in power for all the benefits that exist within.
S t a n d
U p
P a d d l e
M a g
U K
CORRAN ADDISON'S bicycle of water PAUL HYMAN'S fight against plastic 10 LAKES IN 10 DAYS challenge FAMILY PYE in profile ACCEPTANCE WITH Real Surfing Mag's Steve Halpin
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ISSN 2397-8597 August 2019
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