The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2022 Issue 37 by The Cultured Traveller

➤ I S S U E

M A R C H – M AY 2 0 2 2 UK £10

EU €10

ISLA HOLBOX ST O C K H O L M

➤ DETROIT ➤ OENOTOURISM IN BORDEAUX

➤ S E V E N O F T H E W O R L D ’ S B E ST S U I T E S

R AY M O N D B L A N C

➤ MANFRED THIERRY MUGLER

CMY

12 2 O E N O T O U R I S M I N T H E V I N E YA R D S O F B O R D E A U X Studded with prestigious châteaux and punctuated by historic villages, medieval cities and archeological sites, BORDEAUX is as famous for its fine wines and rich heritage as it is for its grand architecture and spectacular scenery. Liz Bingham samples some of France’s most delectable reds.

2 8 I N D I A’ S PA L AT I A L N E W H O S P I TA L I T Y STA R Reminiscent of a magnificent country estate and located on a private island on Udai Sagar Lake, with the purple ridges of the Aravalli range in the distance, RAFFLES UDAIPUR is a haven for discerning travellers looking for calm and discovery in India’s most romantic city. The Cultured Traveller takes a first look at this spectacular new hotel.

46 WIN A LUXE FOUR -NIGHT MEDITERRANEAN BREAK Spend four sun-drenched days and balmy nights in a sumptuous, sea view room at THE RESIDENCE TUNIS including breakfasts, a dinner for two and local airport transfers.

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highlights

4 8 P O R T U G A L’ S R E S O L U T E LY A U T H E N T I C C A P I TA L Boasting a rich cultural heritage and literally bursting with an array of diverse experiences ranging from colourful street art to untold culinary delights, LISBON is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most original and charismatic cities. Nicholas Chrisostomou investigates the city of seven hills and discovers the secret behind its renowned light.

6 8 T H E W O R L D FA M O U S , S E L F -TA U G H T C U L I N A R Y G E N I U S Routinely namechecked as one of the finest chefs on the planet, RAYMOND BLANC’s cooking has landed him countless awards. Not least, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons has held two Michelin stars for more than three decades. The acclaimed chef talks about his travels and the evolution of French cuisine to The Cultured Traveller.

Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square), Lisbon, Portugal

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

127 CONTENTS

8 CONTRIBUTORS 1 0 E D I T O R’ S L E T T E R 12 NEWSFLASH

118 124

Almost every day of every month of every year, a fascinating cultural event, curious tradition or exciting festival is happening somewhere in the world. During the coming months, float-filled parades will once again pass through the streets of New Orleans during MARDI GRAS; four days of street parades, concerts, performances and fireworks will celebrate ST. PATRICK’S DAY in Dublin; Japan’s parks and countryside will come alive with beautiful CHERRY BLOSSOM blooms; Arabian horses will compete for multimillion dollar prizes at the DUBAI WORLD CUP; Thai new year will be commemorated by water fights and street parties during SONGKRAN; California’s glam COACHELLA music festival will return to the Colorado Desert, and movie stars will walk the red carpet at the CANNES FILM FESTIVAL.

2 6 R E S T YO U R H E A D

In issue 37 of The Cultured Traveller, the team checks-out a dozen new hotels around the world, including ROSEWOOD SÃO PAULO, which incorporates a vertical garden tower designed by Jean Nouvel and Philippe Starck-designed rooms; the exquisite SAN DOMENICO PALACE – a former 14th century convent lovingly reimagined by Four Seasons; HÔTEL BARRIÈRE LE CARL GUSTAF, where French sophistication meets tropical hospitality elegance overlooking St. Bart’s glittering port town of Gustavia; luxurious new XIGERA SAFARI LODGE, situated in the western reaches of Botswana’s iconic Moremi Game Reserve and, set in the grounds of Château de Versailles, in a building conceived by Louis XIV’s favourite architect, LE GRAND CONTRÔLE is the first and only hotel at the inimitable Palace of Versailles. 75 SUITE ENVY

As more of us once again take to the skies for luxury breaks, The Cultured Traveller revisits seven of the world’s most indulgent hotel suites, in Hong

106 Kong, Colombo, Cape Town, Paphos, Cartagena, Goa and the stunning Green Mountain area of Oman.

133 12 island. Nicholas Chrisostomou reviews MATSUHISA LIMASSOL.

127

1 2 9 TA S T E & S I P N E W C O M E R 88 NO SHOES REQUIRED

Alex Benasuli senses that little has changed on Mexico’s idyllic, car-free Yucatán island oasis of ISLA HOLBOX since it was a haven for early Mayan settlers.

Located in the heart of Istanbul’s historic, Byzantine Galata district, where the 14th century Genoese tower once dominated the skyline of Constantinople, Nicholas Chrisostomou road-tests new Italian restaurant IL CORTILE.

96 SPOTLIGHT

1 3 3 FA S H I O N I C O N

Nestled between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea, spread across fourteen islands connected by bridges and canals and surrounded by forests and countryside, Alex Benasuli is enamoured by STOCKHOLM’s natural beauty.

Renowned globally for his avant garde haute couture and show-stopping, genre-busting creations, MANFRED THIERRY MUGLER died earlier this year. The Cultured Traveller looks back at the colourful life of one of the world’s most talented and outrageous fashion designers.

1 0 6 T R AV E L L E R L O W D O W N

Bankrupt less than a decade ago, Samantha Henderson discovers that America’s motor city has been cleverly reinvented and famed DETROIT is now very much back in the game.

145 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Web addresses for everywhere featured in issue 37 of The Cultured Traveller magazine. 1 4 6 T R AV E L T I P S

1 1 8 TA S T E & S I P R E V I E W

Designed by celebrated architect David Rockwell, renowned chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s Cyprus outpost has set new standards for Japanese-Peruvian dining on the sunny Eastern Mediterranean

Catapulted into the music mainstream in 2000 with the mammoth hit Groovejet, pop star and mother of five SOPHIE ELLIS-BEXTOR travels light, gets super comfy in-flight and loves to watch a good film.

146

LIZ BINGHAM ➤ TASTE & SIP EXPERIENCE Since retiring from corporate life in 2017, Liz devotes her time to ‘living life in longhand’, in other words, slowing everything down and being present in the moment. An inveterate traveller, now that planes are flying again Liz is turning left and has resumed her frequent sojourns.

E D I TO R - I N - C H I E F

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U C O C O L AT T É STUART CROWHURST E D I TO R I A L J E M I M A T H O M P S O N P I CT U R E S S T E L L A A L E V I Z A K I PUBLISHER

DESIGN

T H I S I S S U E ’ S C O N T R I B U TO R S

Liz Bingham, Jackie Needleman Alex Benasuli, Samantha Henderson W I T H T H A N KS TO

Vitor Carrico, Carmo Botelho, Jori White

CONTRIBUTORS

The Cultured Traveller magazine is published by Coco Latté

ISSUE 37

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@the culturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

SAMANTHA HENDERSON ➤ TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Travelling is a passion, hobby and way of life for Sam. She has lived in many countries, is multi-lingual and is a pro at setting-up home in foreign climes. In 2006, Sam ventured round the world via Canada, the United States, Western Samoa, New Zealand and Australia. Sam is currently running a hotel in South Africa with her family.

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R ➤ ISSUE 37 © 2022 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Read and download the digital version of issue 37 of The Cultured Traveller magazine at

➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/37 Follow The Cultured Traveller on

ALEX BENASULI ➤ NO SHOES REQUIRED London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa, as well as North and South America intimately. As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an offthe-beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

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MICHAEL CLARK COSMIC DANCER 5 March – 4 September 2022 Celebrating the groundbreaking Scottish dancer and choreographer, Michael Clark, his rebellious energy and radical creative collaborations. Book now. Members go free. vam.ac.uk/dundee EXHIBITION CURATED AND ORGANISED BY BARBICAN, LONDON

MICHAEL CLARK, NEW PURITANS, 1984, PUBLICITY PHOTOGRAPH. © RICHARD HAUGHTON

From left to right: Château Smith Haut Lafitte; Lisbon; Raymond Blanc; Stockholm

to right: FromFrom left toleft right: One & OnlyEstefan; Desaru Coast; Gloria Zürich; The Johri at Lal Haveli; Lake Como; Lošinj Island Adam Cowie; Riga

E D I TO RE ’S L E T E O R ’ ’S T ED DIIT TO R S L L E TT TE ER RT E R

ABOUT A MONTH SHY OF the two-year anniversary of the start of the first ever UK lockdown, as we went to print, Boris Johnson ended England’s Covid rules earlier than planned, in a bid to sooner coax the British WITH EUROPE ABOUT SPRING IS TIME OF population intoAlearning to to re-open its borders to renewed energy, live with the virusfresh and goals move neighbouring nations on and,towards most funnormality. of all, booking back the continent, and the UK summer holidays. With the Passenger locator forms still increasingly green-lighting silly to season all but a to distant need be completed travel additional countries for leisure thethere first is sign of no tomemory, the UK,atbut now travel, our world is slowly daffodils’ slim green bladesand onerous testing on arrival but surely coming back to appearing March, I’m all the need to in self-isolate, after life. Consequently, more about planning testing positive, my hasmid-year been abolished. Whilst and more of us are making trips of and looking ahead to is still plagued by much mainland Europe plans to get away and it’s not the warmer Yet, now just a matter Covid, surelymonths. it is happily before time! For I suspect that I’veEU only learnt attempt to follow ofsomething time before countries being pretty-much grounded in the the UKpast and few the years: end of one the pandemic, on the since March 2020 has been doesn’t necessarily to becomes a distinct European continenthave at least, unbearable for most readers travel far to be approaching immersed in warmer a possibility. The months of The Cultured Traveller who, rather special will surely help.experience. We obviously won’t see travel like me, essentially live to travel. Until the Croatian of Lošinj – return tovisiting pre-pandemic levels island for a year or two, For someone who has a phobia of needles in the just a surged stone’s as but UKcentral holidaynorthern bookingsAdriatic, have already and is disinclined to be vaccinated against throwatfrom I didn’t realise that such Brits largeItaly plan– vacations, although many are anything, the prospect of getting a Covid-19 near-pristine natural Europe. beauty could be enjoyed not venturing beyond jab wasn’t something I jumped at. But it within just a few hours’ flight from London. quickly dawned on me that being protected And until relatively recently, Zürich37was WITH THIS IN MIND, IN ISSUE OF against the virus would make it much commonly associated with semiThe Cultured Traveller, we business visit two and of Europe’s easier and safer to travel. And when I was secretive bankingcities, ratherboth thanofbeing exciting most charismatic whichanradiate vaccinated, it felt like the most positive thing I city break destination. Both arecaptivating featured in city this their own distinct charms. The had done in ages, not to mention a step in the as is Dawn Gibson that around ofissue, Lisbon bathed in a discovers unique, almost ethereal direction of really living again. I think you get everywhich cobbled corner, there is much intrigue light, Jackie Needleman and Itoset out to the message! page 48). Meanwhile a seasoned in (Switzerland’s largest discover the globetrotter secret behind Alex Benasuli is enamoured the natural city (p50), while I jump off a by boat into clear IN THIS, OUR 34TH ISSUE, we check beauty of the Swedish capital, which is spread turquoise waters off the coast of uninhabited into a dozen brand new hotels which have across fourteen islands connected(p122). by bridges islands in the Lošinj archipelago swung open their glamorous doors during the As he’s speeding across the waters of pandemic (p30), and take a deep breath at Lake Como, Alex Benasuli rediscovers that some of Europe›s finest spas, any one of which old school Italian glamour never goes out of is ideal for a restorative stay (p74). Starratt gets her I S S U E 3 7fashion M A R(page130); C H - M A Y 2Ashlee 22 We chat with the 0celebrated singer, pianist fingers dirty feasting on fresh Sri Lankan and music revivalist Michael Feinstein (p102) mud crab at one of Asia’s 50 best restaurants and handsome London-born model Adam

and canals. Set between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea, Stockholm is surrounded by magnificent forests and swathes of beautiful countryside ( page 96 ). One of the world’s most respected chefs, Raymond Cowie (p92), while Pam Ann Blancof talks exclusively to heights Michelin stardom, gives us her tips for flying The Cultured Traveller Joe Mortimer discovers theabout through the skies in her his travels and the evolution secrets of Barcelona’s enticing inimitable style (p152). of French cuisine ( page 68). food scene (p152). Liz Bingham visits an Bankrupt lessindustry than a decade A titan of the and award-winning British ago, Samantha one of the greatestHenderson designers vineyard producing fine that theback famed of discovers all time, we look at the English sparkling wines Midwest American city career of Karl Lagerfeld – aof (p136), Emily Millett finds Detroit is very much back in legend the game ( page true fashion (p171), that the Latvian capital 106 ). And for those not yet ready andwho we are sit down with the to of Riga is emerging as a tackle an airport, Liz Bingham enjoys original Latin pop icon,some Gloria European hub of art, quality oenotourism in the French wineEstefan, to famed chat about being culture and innovation (p52), producing regiona of Bordeaux, which is easily hotelier and her incredible and Jackie Needleman has accessible from much Europe by road careerof(p158). put together a capsule ( page 124 ). With Switzerland, Spain, collection of fashion staples to the Maldives, Panama, see you through this summer (p121). WHETHER YOU ARESri STAYING LOCAL, Thailand, South Africa, Lanka and many motoring around Europe or flying more countries visited in this issue, across The the ALTHOUGH THE SUMMER OF 2021 will pond to faraway climes, The Cultured Traveller Cultured Traveller showcases the world’s be far from normal, hopefully many of us will is yourhotspots guide tosoglobetrotting inmore style time to some of travel you can spend get away and see a new part of the world or, at the most your enchanting destinations on the planet, planning next exciting excursion. I hope the very least, soak up some rays on a blissful as we emerge an unprecedented that you find afrom destination in this issuepandemic to beach. It feels a little like the start of a new and re-discover the culture of travelling. persuade you to book your next trip and have beginning, so let’s live for the moment and get something colourful in your 2020 diary to look out and enjoy our new-found freedoms. forward to.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

Reservations: +27 (0) 21 671 5502 • reservations@trp.travel

news

FA S C I N A T I N G C U LT U R A L E V E N T S AND OUTSTANDING FESTIVALS HAPPENING AROUND THE WORLD IN THE COMING MONTHS

ST. PATRICK’S DAY HELD TO COMMEMORATE Ireland’s patron saint and the arrival of Christianity, St. Patrick’s Day has been an official Christian feast day since the early 17th century. Legend has it that the association with shamrocks and the “wearing of the green” hark back to Saint Patrick’s use of the three-leaved plant to explain the Holy Trinity to the pagan Irish. Celebrated in more countries than any other national festival, today St. Patrick’s Day is a tribute to the far-reaching influence of the Emerald Isle’s expatriate population. However, there’s nothing like experiencing 17 March in Ireland itself, where the public holiday is the climax of a long party. The official festival – established by the Irish government decades ago – includes four days of street parades, concerts, céilithe (traditional music sessions), theatre performances and fireworks. While the best place to be immersed in the revelry is undoubtedly Dublin, cities, towns and

MARDI GRAS, NEW ORLEANS

villages throughout Ireland hold their own parades and festivals. 17 March 2022 www.stpatricksfestival.ie

PRE-PANDEMIC, WELL

and 18th centuries. New Orleans’ connection

over one million visitors

dates back to 1699, when explorer Pierre Le

took to the streets

Moyne d’Iberville arrived in Louisiana and

of New Orleans during

declared a plot of land “Pointe du Mardi Gras”

Mardi Gras to participate in the city’s iconic

upon realising it was the eve of the holiday. In

Fat Tuesday parades and festivities. And whilst

1718, the city of New Orleans was established

this annual celebration of excess and

near the very same plot, and by the 1730s,

indulgence is observed everywhere from Rio

Mardi Gras parades and masquerade balls

de Janeiro to Venice, New Orleans’ unique

had become an annual city tradition. After a

Mardi Gras customs make the Louisiana city’s

pandemic hiatus, float-filled parades will

celebrations particularly renowned around the

happily once again pass through the streets of

world. A debaucherous prelude to Lent, the

New Orleans’ neighbourhoods this year.

legacy of Mardi Gras can be traced to

1 March 2022

European Carnival celebrations during the 17th

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www.mardigrasneworleans.com

NEWSFLASH

CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL KNOWN AS HANAMI IN Japanese, Japan’s cherry blossom festivals are an important and ancient tradition of enjoying the blooming of cherry blossoms (sakura) and sometimes plum blossoms (ume) in Japan’s parks and countryside. It is said that the origin of hanami dates back more than a millennium, when aristocrats enjoyed looking at beautiful cherry blossoms and wrote poems inspired by them. Whilst cherry blossom festivals are held all over Japan during the spring months, it is important to note that the trees bloom at different times throughout the land of the rising sun, so plan your trip accordingly. Unlike the aristocrats of yesteryear, Japanese people today enjoy cherry blossom viewing in a different way, often taking home-cooked meals or barbecued foods to eat and sake to drink under the trees, turning these gatherings into good-natured revelry as evening approaches. Consequently, elderly Japanese often visit Japanese plum tree parks to view their blossoms instead, since these areas are less busy and rowdy! Late March - Early April 2022

VIVE LATINO STARTED BY OCESA MORE

rocking to the beats of a huge line-up of more than

than twenty years ago, Vive

one hundred acts playing a variety of

Latino is a massive, annual

musical genres, many of which are outside

two-day rock and Latin

the mainstream. Think Latina rappers and you will

American music festival, held every spring in Mexico

get the gist! Yet while Vive Latino primarily pays

City’s Foro Sol (Sun Forum). Built in 1993 as a sports

homage to Latin American musicians, bands and

and concert venue inside the vast Autodromo

singers, the festival is also open to international

Hermanos Rodriguez complex in eastern Mexico

artists, so American rap rock band Limp Bizkit will

City, Foro Sol is the second largest concert venue in

be making a special appearance this year (pictured).

the country. Music lovers pack it on both days of

19-20 March 2022

Vive Latino, endlessly moving, clapping, singing and

www.vivelatino.com.mx

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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NEWSFLASH

MARDI GRAS, NEW ORLEANS An inherent part of Mardi Gras since the festival began more than one hundred years ago, thousands of Dollars are poured into producing incredible floats, which are constructed over a period of many months at secret dens around the city. 1 March 2022

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

DUBAI WORLD CUP ATTRACTING THE CREAM of Dubai society as well as international glitterati, and held in arguably one of the world’s most ostentatious cities, the Gulf’s leading equestrian event and the planet’s richest annual horse race is as much about being seen as it is a tribute to the beauty of Arabian horses. The culmination of the eight meeting 2021-2022 Dubai World Cup Carnival, during which over one hundred horses conditioned by dozens of trainers hailing from a variety of countries will have competed for the prestigious prizes on offer, the main event at Meydan Racecourse on 26 March will see USD 30.5 million presented to the winners of the day’s nine races, which include eight thoroughbred contests and one for purebred Arabians. In years gone by, the after-race concert has been headlined by some of the pop world’s biggest names, and Dubai World Cup Day will naturally conclude with a massive firework display. 26 March 2022 www.dubairacingclub.com

ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL REGULARLY VOTED THE

This year’s line-up fulfils the festival

world’s best festivals by

organisers commitment to expanding house

DJ Magazine, Armin Van

and techno programming, with UMF’s

Buuren, David Guetta,

underground brand feature a host of house and

Kygo and Afrojack are just some of the global

techno DJs including Adam Beyer, ANNA, Carl

DJ superstars who will be headlining one of the

Cox, Amelie Lens, Nina Kraviz, Sasha b2b John

industry’s favourite electronic music events,

Digweed and more. And, for the first time ever,

when it explodes in Bayfront Park in Miami over

this year’s new format and revamped festival

the last weekend of March 2022. Bayfront Park

layout have been especially customised to suit

spans 32 acres in Downtown Miami and sits

Bayfront Park.

right on beautiful Biscayne Bay, making the

25-27 March 2022

location for UMF pretty much unrivalled.

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https://ultramusicfestival.com

NEWSFLASH

NAGHOL LAND DIVING NOT FOR THE FAINT

During the preparation period, the men seclude

hearted, this ancient

themselves from the women of the tribe and

annual ritual is essentially

refrain from all sexual activity. Before diving,

the precursor to 21st

tribal members on the ground sing and dance in

century bungee jumping. On Pentecost Island in

an effort to help the divers be brave. Since the

a remote part of the South Pacific, brave men

vines act as bungee cords, each diver is invited

and boys of the Sa tribe hurtle towards the

to build his own platform and select his own vine

ground headfirst from wooden towers of up to

so that no one else can be blamed if a fatal

thirty metres tall. With nothing more than tree

accident occurs! If a vine is too short, the diver

vines tied around their ankles and no safety

will crash into the tower. If it’s too long, he will

equipment whatsoever, they plummet

almost certainly break bones or possibly even

groundward at speeds of more than 40mph,

perish.

praying that their vine is just the right length.

Saturdays in April, May, June 2022

F1 AUSTRALIAN GRAND PRIX THE SECOND OLDEST

exciting that ever before, with new track

surviving motor race in

modifications promising more overtakes, more

Australia (after the Alpine

action and more speed, plus two new stands for

Rally), the F1 Australian Grand

spectators to choose from - the Riccardo

Prix is held at Melbourne’s famous Albert Park

Grandstand and the Webber Grandstand. To live the

Grand Prix Circuit and is the third race of the 2022

rush of the race start and witness the race winner

season after Bahrain and Saudi Arabia. Albert

as the chequered flag is waved 58 laps later, sit in

Park is an exhilarating circuit for drivers and

the Fangio Grandstand and you’ll also be directly

spectators alike because it boasts a thrilling

across from the pit lane and have a prime view of

combination of fast straights and demanding slow

the winners’ podium.

speed turns with multiple overtaking

10 April 2022

opportunities. This year’s race is set to be more

www.australia-grand-prix.com

SEMANA SANTA EASTER IS THE MOST

shows in its town centre and churches throughout

celebrated of religious

the week, with crowds from near and far flocking to

festivals in Colombia and the

the area to revel in the country’s rich cultural

country’s majority Catholic

traditions. Popayán was also Latin America’s first

population gets this underway with Semana Santa,

UNESCO World City of Gastronomy and tasty,

or holy week. Beginning just before Easter at the

seasonal food and snacks are served throughout

end of Lent, a variety of events commence on

Semana Santa. Visitors can join post-procession

Tuesday through to Holy Saturday. Popayán, a

celebrations or attend concerts performed by

historic city in the south of the country, is regarded

local and international musicians. The main event

as the nation’s ‘Religious Capital’ (it has more

takes place on Good Friday - a parade depicting

churches per inhabitant than any other city in

the passion of Christ prior to his crucifixion.

Colombia), hosts huge processions and musical

10-16 April 2022

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

HOLI During the ancient, annual Hindu ritual of Holi, also known as the “Festival of Colours”, participants throw brightly coloured powders at each other to celebrate the triumph of good over evil and herald the arrival of spring. 17-18 March 2022

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NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

SONGKRAN DERIVED FROM THE Sanskrit word sankrānti and also known as Thai New Year or the Thailand Water Festival, Songkran was originally a way for Thai people to sprinkle water on their family members and elders to bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to images of their beloved Buddha, and was held on dates that were dependent upon the Thai lunar calendar. Today, Songkran is commemorated on the same days every year and has transitioned into a countrywide festival which sees pretty much everyone let their hair down and have fun in friendly water fights and street parties that last nearly a week, held during what is often the hottest month of the year in Thailand. The streets of Bangkok particularly are teeming with locals and visitors alike, soaking each other with buckets of water, hoses, water guns and anything that they can basically get their hands on to drench each other! 13-15 April 2022

COACHELLA CALIFORNIA’S GLOSSY, glam, dry and heated answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury, held at the Empire Polo Club in the Colorado Desert over two consecutive weekends, Coachella is the first major international music event in the annual festival calendar. Essentially a massive, well-organised cultural playground, hosting up to 100,000 people at any one time, Coachella is attended by sweaty fashionistas, designer hippies and musical trendsetters. Known for its show-stopping all-star lineup and breathtaking large-scale art installations, the 2022 roll call for this veritable global gathering is no exception and is led by Kanye West, Billie Eilish and Harry Styles no less. This will be the first performance at the festival by Styles, who it is rumoured may release some new material before he appears at Coachella. DJ-wise, Fat Boy Slim and The Martinez Brothers will be taking to the decks, amongst dozens of others. 15-17 + 22-24 April 2022 www.coachella.com

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NEWSFLASH

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL DATING BACK MORE than two centuries and somewhat symbolic of American West culture, cowboys are synonymous with Texas and the state of California. Even today, from South Texas’ mesquite trees to the Panhandle’s open prairies there are cowboys hard at work. Every year, about thirty minutes north of Los Angeles, the city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the world’s biggest cowboy gatherings which celebrates the state’s western heritage. Established since 1994, this action-packed cowboy festival routinely attracts thousands of loyal attendees for its live music, authentic western activities, trick ropers, gun spinners and magicians, as well as living history exhibits and stalls selling fine Western gear. The region’s Dutch oven peach cobbler is reputedly so tasty that it’s earned a reputation of its own! This year, five stages of cowboy, folk and bluegrass will provide the musical backdrop for gold panning, a four-meat cowboy cook-off, archery, hatchet throwing and general cowboy carousing. 23-24 April 2022 www.cowboyfestival.org

AFRIKABURN WHILE NOWHERE

the Tankwa Karoo National Park in the Northern

near as large as its

Cape Province of South Africa, the site is about

mother event, Burning

250 miles outside Cape Town and far from

Man, AfrikaBurn is a

civilisation, so you’ve got to be pretty intentional

festival on the rise that’s attracting more and

in your desire to make the trek. A ‘gift economy’

more visitors each year since being founded in

on site means that there is no commercial

2007. The festival is the spectacular result of

exchange at the event at all - no vending, no

the creative expression of participants who

cash bars and no branded promotion of

gather to create a temporary city of art, themed

services or products - the aim being real social

camps, costume, music and performance, with

interaction. Essentially, AfrikaBurn is an exercise

some of the temporary structures burnt

in total self-reliance.

towards the end of the event. Held in a

25 April - 1 May 2022

semi-desert environment at Quaggafontein in

www.afrikaburn.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

MEGURO SAKURA FESTIVAL Boasting more than eight hundred cherry trees lining its four kilometre length, Meguro River is perhaps the best spot in Tokyo to view the stunning sakura cherry blossoms. Late March - Early April 2022

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NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

TRUJILLO NATIONAL CHEESE FESTIVAL SPAIN HAS THE FOURTH largest consumption of cheese in the world. This intense love of cheese is demonstrated by the hundreds of Spanish cheese makers who gather together annually every Spring for the mammoth Trujillo National Cheese Festival, which is reputedly the largest in the world. Held in Trujillo in the Cáceres region of Spain, the festival features more than three hundred varieties produced by local artisan cheese makers, providing visitors with an

VALLENATO LEGEND FESTIVAL

opportunity to try many rare types of cheese that are not found outside of the Extremadura region. During the course of the four-day festival, thousands of foodies descend upon the

PROCESSION OF SERPENTS

town’s historic main square, Plaza Mayor, which is transformed into a colourful cheese village. Awash with the smells of local and national

ITALY’S ANNUAL

A MELODIC FESTIVAL

cheeses, here visitors sample cheeses, eat and

Processione dei Serpari or

like no other, where both

drink in one of the many restaurants and

Snake Festival is held in

South and North American

generally feast on the finer culinary things in life.

artists convene, as they

Dozens of booths in the square also offer

Domenico for miraculously removing serpents

have since the late 1960s, the Festival de la

tastings, talks and all manner of cheesy treats.

from farmers’ fields in the Italian region of

Leyenda Vallenata is one of the most important

29 April - 2 May 2022

Abruzzo in the 11th century. Domenico – an

musical festivals in Colombia and presents

Umbrian abbot who lived in Cocullo for around

audiences with a variety of meringue, folk, paseo

seven years towards the end of the 10th century

and other Latino music concerts. The four-day

– became associated with this event when he left

festival is held in the city of Valledupar, which is

the town one of his teeth, which is kept, to this

located between the Sierra Nevada de

day, as a holy relic in the local church. Ever since,

Santa Marta and the Serranía del Perijá mountain

the faithful have believed in the saint’s powers to

ranges, within a region of diverse temperatures

protect teeth and heal snake bites. This unique

and terrains. Shows at the Vallenato demonstrate

festival is also said to originate from the ancient

how the music of farm-folk, African slaves and

worship of Angitia, a Roman goddess of snakes

European settlers of the city’s past influenced

who is worshipped by people in central Italy.

and manifested into the Latino sound we

Every year, the people of the small, medieval town

associate with the continent today, with the

of Cocullo, in the Province of L’Aquila in Abruzzo,

accordion featuring characteristically

catch four types of harmless snakes which are

throughout. Dancers are seen parading the

then draped over a wooden statue of Saint

streets and awards are given in contests for

Domenico. More and more snakes are added until

songwriting and musicians within various styles

the statue is almost completely covered, at which

of music that include best accordion player and

point it is carried through the streets, held high in

best new Vallenato song. There is even a prize for

the centre of a long procession.

the most competent lyricist!

5 May 2022

26-30 April 2022 www.festivalvallenato.com

celebration of Saint

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NEWSFLASH

CANNES FILM FESTIVAL BARRING ITS red carpets, Cannes is probably most famous for its beach clubs, lavish parties, happening nightlife, super yachts and awards bashes. Held annually in the famous French seaside resort, the Cannes Film Festival is undoubtedly one of the movie industry’s most important events and is always well attended by prestigious directors and famous actors who fly-in from across the planet, as well as up-and-coming producers and professionals who have yet to make their mark. The festival also provides a rendezvous for those interested in movies, film makers and the industry’s influencers, as well as an international marketplace where producers and distributors exchange ideas, watch films and sign contracts. As with past years, the 2022 75th edition will premiere a variety of the latest films and documentaries from all over the world in the glamorous French Riviera. 17-28 May 2022 www.festival-cannes.com

FRIEZE NEW YORK THE AMERICAN

the obvious, well-known pricey names. Held at

cousin of Britain’s most

The Shed cultural center adjacent to the High

important annual

Line in west Manhattan (pictured), this year’s

artistic happening,

Frieze New York will be honouring the

Frieze New York has become one of the most

exemplary work of The Vision & Justice

important contemporary art fairs stateside,

Project and its founder Sarah Elizabeth Lewis,

showcasing works by hundreds of artists. The

Associate Professor at Harvard

Big Apple incarnation is fun, colourful and as

University. This worthwhile project is

much of a social event for locals and

dedicated to examining art’s central role in

overseas visitors as it is a serious art market

understanding the relationship between race

for dealers and curators. Here the pleasure is

and citizenship in the United States.

attending, people watching, exploring the art

18-22 May 2022

and discovering talented newcomers beyond

www.friezenewyork.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

rest your

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head

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R C H E C K S O U T T W E LV E O F T H E N E W E S T H O S P I TA L I T Y OFFERINGS IN EUROPE AND THE REST OF THE WORLD

➤ U D A I P U R ➤ S Ã O PA U L O ➤ W E ST L A K E , O N TA R I O ➤ H E R C E G N O V I ➤ TA O R M I N A ➤ I STA N B U L ➤ ST. B A R T S ➤ O K AVA N G O D E LTA ➤ B O ST O N ➤ P E R U G I A ➤ K Y O T O ➤ V E R S A I L L E S

Raffles Udaipur, Udai Sagar Lake, India

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

UDAI PUR

RAFFLES UDAIPUR LOCATED NEAR THE GUJARAT BORDER IN THE

one of Rajasthan’s architectural wonders, spectacular City Palace

southernmost part of the western Indian state of Rajasthan,

is a monumental complex of 11 royal residences erected over almost

Udaipur is famed for its placid man-made lakes, landscaped gardens and

four centuries.

INDIA

lavish Rajput palaces. And despite being one of Rajasthan’s largest cities, its unique setting – nestled between the waters of its famous lakes and

Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, Raffles Udaipur is a grand new

the ancient Aravalli Range – bestow upon it an elegant character, royal

hotel designed to evoke the ambiance of a magnificent country estate.

ambiance and incomparable romance, while modern Udaipur retains an

This it amply achieves courtesy of the beautifully manicured ornamental

enchanting, almost small-town vibe.

gardens which surround the hotel, coupled with its tranquil setting on

Known by many names, not least the ‘City of Lakes’ and ‘Venice of the

a 21-acre private island set in the middle of serene Udai Sagar lake. A

East’, at the heart of Udaipur lies serene Lake Pichola, with the old city built

400-year-old temple and staggering panoramic vistas of the surrounding

on a series of gentle hills on its east bank. Overlooking Lake Pichola and

hills complete the remarkable scene.

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Guests arrive at Raffles Udaipur via a short drive from the airport followed

guests with classic French desserts and delectable pastries, and

by a calming boat ride across the soothing lake towards the stately home-like

culinary enthusiasts can enjoy a live cooking experience at the hotel’s

hotel. Elegantly interweaving western cultural references with Rajasthan’s

cookery school, Rasoi.

royal heritage and elements of local architecture throughout, the imposing classical European Palladian edifice is topped with grand domes. Inside, bedecked with beautiful murals and handcrafted furniture, the hotel’s 101 high-ceilinged guest rooms and suites exude a warming east-

Of course, a Raffles is not a Raffles without a signature Long Bar, and in Udaipur, the Long Bar is finished with rich timbers and refined leathers complete with hand engravings by local artisans. A peaceful space bathed in natural light, the hotel’s sumptuous spa

meets-west design aesthetic and boast uninterrupted lake views,

offers a private escape from the world’s stresses, its authentic treatments

private gardens, balconies and plunge pools.

encouraging a sense of nurturing and the promotion of both emotional and

As well as a feast for the eyes, Raffles Udaipur is a veritable feast for the tastebuds courtesy of a cluster of onsite restaurants and bars catering

physical wellbeing. Positively oozing a rare, hushed yet decadent elegance throughout,

to guests every culinary whim. Amongst them, Sawai Kitchen serves

Raffles Udaipur is a modern and refined hospitality palace meticulously

hitherto lost Indian recipes hailing from Rajastan’s ancient royal

fashioned for today’s discerning traveller.

households, reinvented for today’s tastes; Raffles Patisserie tantalises

www.raffles.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

SÃO PAULO

ROSEWOOD SÃO PAULO THE LARGEST AND BUSIEST CITY IN THE AMERICAS, WITH more than 20 million people living in its metropolitan area, São Paulo is Brazil’s financial center and a vibrant and bustling metropolis

B R AZ IL

with a rich cultural heritage which has developed over centuries since it was founded by Jesuit priests in 1554. An assemblage of four, separate business districts, 39 municipalities and hundreds of neighbourhoods, the Brazilian mega-city is a massive melting pot, easily eclipsing London and New York in terms of size, hustle and bustle. And whilst Rio may be a much more beautiful city, São Paulo is where it all happens in Brazil. Visitors to São Paulo today cherry-pick from a huge range of experiences which run the gamut from cutting-edge art galleries and

A veritable love letter to Brazil, the majority of the design materials utilised

countless architectural charms to some of the best food on the continent

in the construction of Rosewood São Paulo were locally sourced and

and a high-octane nightlife scene.

inspired by the country’s diverse culture.

Centrally located in the heart of São Paulo near lively Avenida Paulista

residences available for purchase, were designed by the hotel’s artistic

– the main drag and 24-hour thoroughfare – Rosewood São Paulo is a

director, Philippe Starck and are spread across the restored Matarazzo

metropolitan oasis set within the historical enclave of Cidade Matarazzo. A

Maternity and the new garden tower.

Inside, 160 luxurious guest rooms and suites, together with 100 private

complex of elegantly preserved buildings from the early 20th century that

The hotel is also home to a massive, permanent collection of more

have been carefully and sustainably transformed into private residences,

than 450 site-specific artworks, created under the direction of Starck in

high-end stores and entertainment venues, the focus of Cidade Matarazzo

partnership with 57 local artists, whose work draws from the multiplicity

is the celebration and protection of the country’s cultural heritage.

of the Brazilian experience. The overall result is a hotel which is effectively

Anchoring this sprawling mixed-used lifestyle hub and spearheaded by

that celebrates the natural beauty, rich history and diverse culture of its

former hospital, Matarazzo Maternity, as well as a striking new vertical

homeland.

garden tower designed by award-winning architect Jean Nouvel.

Brazil’s newest contemporary art museum and a hospitality experience

entrepreneur Alexandre Allard, Rosewood São Paulo occupies the historic

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www.rosewoodhotels.com

Check in

to Thessaloniki’s grand past Discover a new hospitality experience in the building of the historic Olympos Naoussa restaurant on Thessaloniki’s seafront. High level services, gastronomic discoveries with wonderful sea views, will spirit you away

Design: Red Creative, Photos: Yannis Megas Archive, Central Library, AUTH

to the city’s glorious past.

Nikis Avenue 5, 546 24 Thessaloniki, Greece onresidence.gr

W E ST LAK E , ONTA RI O

CANADA

WANDER AN ISLAND IN ONTARIO WHERE IT’S EASY TO FALL IN love with food, nature and art all over again, Prince Edward County is a delightful cluster of small hamlets and villages with its roots deeply ingrained in farming and agriculture. Surrounded by 800 kilometres of shoreline including some incredible beaches and pierced by beautiful waterways, the county is home to numerous artists, entrepreneurs, farmers, winemakers, chefs and all manner of creative types who are universally passionate about what they do. Located halfway between Bloomfield and Wellington on the edge of West Lake and boasting a gorgeous sandy beach, Wander is a modern lakefront resort which skillfully pairs the warmth and nostalgia of a classic Canadian cabin with the simplicity of thoughtful Nordic design. A relaxed boutique resort to escape to and reconnect in laidback luxury, Wander’s designers considered every detail in its construction. Light-filled spaces connect guests with the location. Considerate furnishings include hanging rattan swings, lounge seating around

recognised as one of Canada’s top getaway destinations, making Wander a

fireplaces, dining tables that seat eight, spa bathrooms, private decks

year-round destination.

with fire pits and outdoor showers. Handmade touches punctuate

Four seasons programming takes place on the resort’s expansive lawn

all 10 cabins (four lakeside and six poolside) including locally made

and in its clubhouse and includes lakeside yoga, cabin vs. cabin activities,

pottery and premium organic amenities.

sunset wine tastings, ice fishing lessons and live music by the campfire.

Arriving guests are welcomed with a custom scent produced

modern, Wander is a place where you can truly take time out to restore your

and a bottle of local wine chilling in the fridge, produced in one of

energy, play and explore.

the coldest wine regions in the Western hemisphere which is widely

Something of a return to the feeling of being at a summer camp, albeit

locally, a curated playlist of music playing via bluetooth speakers

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www.wandertheresort.com

HE RC E G NOV I

ONE&ONLY PORTONOVI LOCATED ON THE WEST SIDE OF MONTENEGRO, IN AN idyllic region surrounding one of the grandest natural features of the east Adriatic, reminiscent of a fjord, the Bay of Kotor is one of the Mediterranean’s most distinctive and striking landscapes. Also known as Boka Kotorska and actually consisting of four bays penetrating 25 kilometres inland on the south side of the Adriatic Sea, this spectacular

MONTENEGRO

area is surrounded by mountains rising directly from the water. Approaching the bay from the open sea, 1,895-metre high Mount Orjen towers over Herceg Novi bay, while baroque mansions erected by sea captains and villages of stone houses dot its sides. The lush greenery of cypress, olive and lemon trees, plus a variety of other Mediterranean

of Perast and Kotor and the fascinating island of Our Lady of the Rocks. All

flora and fauna along the coast, stand in stark contrast to the mountain’s

are rich in local culture and folklore.

forbiddingly bare sides.

Within the resort, an onsite spa, in partnership with health innovators Chenot Espace, offers pioneering treatments scientifically designed to

Located in Herceg Novi, Portonovi is a new luxury lifestyle development designed in the style of a Mediterranean village, complete with a large

enhance vitality and optimise health. And a variety of world-class dining experiences make One&Only Portonovi

marina. It is here that Europe’s first One&Only resort is located. Home to

something of a gastronomic destination on the Adriatic coast, with Southern

123 rooms, suites and villas, One&Only Portonovi is essentially a high-end

Italian, contemporary Japanese and Montenegrin-inspired cuisines all

health, culinary and nautical playground waiting to be discovered.

prepared to perfection by an expert team of chefs. A bar offerings guests

Guests can cruise the dramatic Adriatic coastline by yacht or speedboat, or learn to dive or sail through its clear, calm waters.

expansive views over the resort’s gardens and sea beyond, and a happening beach club with DJs providing a funky soundtrack, complete the wealth of

A variety of heritage sites, abandoned fortresses and hidden beaches

facilities at this ultra-luxury resort.

are within easy reach of the resort, including the preserved medieval towns

www.oneandonlyresorts.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

TAORMI NA , SI C I LY

SAN DOMENICO PALACE EVER SINCE IT BECAME AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE

film stars alike. Indeed, everyone from Gustav Klimt, D.H. Lawrence and

Grand Tour - which was principally a 17th to early 19th-

Oscar Wilde to Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Federico Fellini and Cary

century custom of taking a traditional trip through Europe – Taormina has been Sicily’s most popular tourist resort for a good few hundred

Today, Taormina lives on tourism, with visitors flocking from all corners of the globe to see its ancient Greco-Roman theatre, Teatro

years. Idyllically perched on a rocky promontory on the east coast of Sicily,

Antico di Taormina, amble along its medieval streets, admire its dramatic

high above the sea, Taormina’s winding network of quaint streets lined

views of Mount Etna and be enchanted by its gorgeous coastline and

with beautifully restored medieval buildings, shops, bars and restaurants

sandy beaches. Taormina is even served by its own cable car, which

have made it a magnet for tourists, artists, writers, movie makers and

delivers tourists from resorts down the coast.

ITALY 34

Gary sojourned in this inimitable Italian holiday hotspot.

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Boasting spectacular views in every direction, San Domenico Palace is

its 111 guestrooms and suites, and an intimate yet refined and utterly luxe

uniquely situated between majestic Mount Etna above, the deep

atmosphere is palpable throughout the palace’s grand public spaces and

blue waters of the Ionian Sea below and Sicily’s stunning south-

long corridors. Terraces are lined with glass to maximise the spectacular

eastern coastline as far as the eye can see. Bestowing a new lease

views and 19 guest rooms boast private plunge pools. Guests can also

of life on the same grande dame hotel that attracted Elizabeth Taylor

enjoy new fine dining restaurant Principe Cerami, a swishy new beach club

and Oscar Wilde in its heyday, Four Seasons has transformed the old

and a sumptuous spa, complete with a Turkish bath.

San Domenico Palace with swishy new interiors that perfectly suit the

Open annually from April through to the end of October and perfectly

storied hotel which occupies a former 14th century monastery and

befitting the Four Seasons brand, while the grand entrance of the enigmatic

convent.

palace remains the same, once inside, everything has been meticulously

Set amongst lush, lemon tree-filled gardens reimagined by acclaimed Italian landscape architect Marco Bay, the hotel marries contemporary art with antiquities and architectural relics throughout

restored and lovingly refreshed to prepare the San Domenico for the next chapter in its legendary history. www.fourseasons.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

I STANB UL

TUR K EY C

ECOLE ST. PIERRE HOTEL A MEGA-CITY OF MORE THAN 15 MILLION PEOPLE AND

for the hotel and its restaurant incorporate remnants of Galata’s

massively rich in cultural heritage, the historic peninsula of

ancient Genoese walls within the property. Today, the enchanting site

Istanbul is a UNESCO World Heritage site with some landmarks dating back

is home to 17 rooms and suites, a delightful and expansive enclosed

to Roman times.

courtyard-style garden, a bustling modern Italian restaurant and a chic

Formerly known as Constantinople and the largest metropolis in Turkey

café-style breakfast room for the exclusive use of guests, all of which

today, Istanbul serves as the country’s economic, cultural and historic hub

were considerately designed by Kitchen-ist to showcase the ancient

and is one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, with a number of

surviving walls and structures whilst injecting a contemporary sense

cultures and ethnic backgrounds fused together within its limits. Straddling

of style into the entire property. The result is a fairytale-like hospitality

Asia and Europe, it is a city where one can truly experience Middle Eastern

experience which begins immediately guests leave busy Istiklal Street

and Western cultures in the same place.

and enter the hotel’s warm and welcoming lobby, where the fascinating

On the European side of Istanbul both geographically and culturally, Galata is the former name of Istanbul’s Karaköy neighbourhood and is

story of Ecole St. Pierre begins. Individually designed rooms and suites bedecked with bespoke

located at the northern shore of the Golden Horn. Literally towering over

furnishings are scattered around the property and accessed by

Karaköy’s shops and streets, the Galata Tower is one of modern Istanbul’s

various staircases and corridors, some of which date back hundreds of

major landmarks. First built by the Byzantine Emperor Justinianos in

years and add incredible character to the hotel.

507-508 AD, the Genoese rebuilt the current tower in the mid-14th century

Some rooms overlook the courtyard below and feature balconies,

to a height of 70 metres, making it the highest point within the walls of

while the suites on the upper floor sit in the shadow of Galata Tower

their Genoese colony called Galata. Sadly, the local municipality began to

and boast wide terraces. Every room is a bright masterclass in

demolish much of the walls in the 1860s, although several wall sections,

detailing and high-quality finishing and is a veritable joy to occupy.

multiple towers and a gate still survive today, including the main tower itself.

Since the entire hotel feels much like a sanctuary, Ecole St. Pierre is the perfect place to retreat to after a busy day sightseeing in hectic

Set within what was originally a school founded in 1842, creating boutique Ecole St. Pierre Hotel was a time-consuming labour of love for its owners,

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Istanbul. www.estphotel.com

CMY

ST. BART S

F R ENCH WES T INDIES

HOTEL BARRIÈRE LE CARL GUSTAF FIRST DISCOVERED IN 1493 BY CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS, the coveted French-speaking Caribbean island of St. Barts is renowned today for its super-luxe vibe. Popular amongst the jet set, whilst this little piece of paradise in the French West Indies is home to numerous high-end restaurants and designer stores, and multiple superyachts are almost always moored in its harbours, its 14 flawless beaches are all open to the public and the island’s European vibe is perfect for proper relaxation. And those who don’t arrive by private plane or yacht know the gorgeous vacation gem that awaits them at the end of the multi-step journey.

original main building or in villa-bungalows dotted amongst the tropical gardens, complete with their own swimming pools and discreet terraces.

Perched on a hill overlooking Gustavia Bay, Le Carl Gustaf not only

Every room category of course boasts incredible views of the glittering

encompasses two centuries of the island’s architecture, it also represents

bay below and the ever-changing blue sea and skies beyond.

a certain kind of traditional St. Barts luxury. Renowned for reviving

cocoon is discreet, relaxed and friendly, providing guests with the level

historic property in 2020 and reimagined Le Carl Gustaf with increased

of service one would expect of such a high-end hotel, together with extra,

functionality and a chic new edge courtesy of architects and interior

thoughtful touches which only come from employing some of the best in

designers Gilles & Boissier. The new-look Le Carl Gustaf opened in 2021.

the business.

The hotel’s 23 guest rooms and suites are either located within the

With a focus on caressing the senses, the team staffing this luxurious

particularly beloved but dated hotels, the Barrière group took over the

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www.hotelsbarriere.com

OK AVANG O DE LTA

XIGERA SAFARI LODGE LOCATED IN NORTHERN BOTSWANA AND COVERING thousands of square kilometres of the Kalahari Desert, the

communities, with Xigera providing both empowerment and employment. Drawing upon six decades of providing unparalleled hospitality, Xigera

Okavango Delta is an exceptional example of the interaction between

is part of the Red Carnation collection of boutique hotels and its dozen

climatic, hydrological and biological processes and is home to some of the

spacious suites are each individually designed to offer a exceptional

world’s most endangered species of large mammal, including the cheetah,

experience of the Okavango.

white rhinoceros, black rhinoceros, African wild dog and lion. Comprising permanent marshlands and seasonally flooded plains, it is

For multi-generational travellers, a two-bedroom family suite is positioned on a pair of islands bridged together by an extraordinary bronze

one of the very few major interior delta systems that do not flow into a sea

centerpiece. In another part of the lodge, a huge triple-storey, off-grid

or ocean, with a wetland system that is almost completely intact. One of its

baobab sculpture-come-treehouse boasts an open-air rooftop bed 10

most distinctive characteristics is that it is flooded annually by the River

metres in the air.

Okavango during the dry season, which flows from the Angolan highlands,

The lodge is equally a celebration of African art, culture and creativity. In effect, Xigera is a living gallery of African creative talent, showcasing

animals which are native to the delta have synchronised their biological

an extraordinary collection of pan-African art and design created by more

cycles with its seasonal rains and floods.

than 80 African artists and designers.

Built with sustainability in mind and hidden by a canopy of magnificent

detailing at Xigera, not to mention the warmth and enthusiasm of its staff,

indigenous trees, Xigera Safari Lodge recently opened in the Okavango

which make it a standout experience in Botswana. And that’s without

Delta, with caring for the environment a priority woven into every aspect

factoring in the animal sightings.

B OTS WANA

across Namibia’s Caprivi Strip and into the desert. Uniquely, the plants and

Bold in vision and ground-breaking in its design and execution, it is the

of the property. Indeed, enormous efforts were made to partner with local

www.xigera.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

B OSTON

UNITES S TATES

THE NEWBURY THE CAPITAL OF THE AMERICAN STATE OF MASSACHUSETTS and one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the States, Boston is a destination for art, history and culture and boasts a wealth of rich and varied attractions for visitors and Bostonians alike. From museums and performing arts to international festivals and outdoor concerts, Boston is especially alive with activities for culture vultures year-round. entrance on Newbury Street, where guests enter the building via an Built on reclaimed land in the 19th century and located within the heart

elegant, landscaped plaza designed by Jeffrey Beers. Years in the making

of Boston alongside the Charles River, many of the city’s best shops and

and paying homage to the building’s storied past and Boston’s rich history,

restaurants are clustered in the picturesque neighbourhood of Back Bay,

The Newbury incorporates modern, tasteful luxury and carefully curated

centered around bustling Copley Square which is home to 1800s landmarks

guest experiences at every turn.

Trinity Church and the Boston Public Library. With an urban landscape

Design, employ a calming colour palette of blues, greys and creams

heeled locals frequent designer boutiques, browse art galleries, drink coffee

alongside luxe, tactile fabrics and custom furnishings. Handcrafted

in pavement cafés and stroll along grand Commonwealth Avenue Mall.

wood, herringbone accents and marble touches add a lavish sense

Located adjacent to the gorgeously manicured Boston Public Garden in the heart of Back Bay, The Newbury originally opened in 1927 as one of the first Ritz-Carlton hotels in the United States. A beloved city landmark,

throughout. Many rooms enjoy views of the public gardens through beautifully framed window nooks fitted with velvet seating. Now that Boston has a sophisticated new place to stay, perhaps it’s

for more than nine decades the hotel welcomed Bostonians, world leaders,

time to uncover the centuries of American history the city embodies,

dignitaries and celebrities alike.

explore its magnificent Museum of Fine Arts or take in a performance by

Today, following a massive restoration at the hands of three worldrenowned designers, the building has been transformed into a majestic hotel with splendid signature dining experiences and a reimagined front

Upstairs, 286 rooms and suites, designed by acclaimed Champalimaud

inspired by Paris, Back Bay emanates a sophisticated sensibility and well-

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the Boston Symphony Orchestra, which is one of the foremost orchestras in the world. www.thenewburyboston.com

PE RUG I A

HOTEL CASTELLO DI RESCHIO A LANDLOCKED REGION BETWEEN TUSCANY, LAZIO AND Le Marche, Italy’s green heart of Umbria is often overlooked

All of Castello di Reschio’s accommodation offers far-reaching views into both the rolling Umbrian countryside and the castle’s central garden courtyard. Each imbued with a unique personality and sense of style, 30

know that Umbria should definitely not be skipped. Indeed, in no time at

suites are housed within the castle walls while a further 6 are located

all, Umbria can steal your heart, thanks to its unbelievably picturesque

just outside, adjacent to the Parish Church of San Michele. All feature

landscapes, its peace and tranquility, its full-bodied local wines and the

terracotta or wooden floors, hand-stitched linen curtains, sumptuous

hearty, earthy cuisine served throughout.

Italian fabrics, locally crafted marble and brass vanity units and

Being the only Italian region that borders neither the sea nor another

generous, bespoke beds. Custom made lighting sits side-by-side with

country, a lack of outside influences has ensured that many of Italy’s

original oil paintings, old photographs and quirky curiosities hand-picked

oldest traditions survive. In Umbria, you will still see grandmothers in

by the family at local antique markets.

aprons making pasta by hand, front doors that haven’t been locked in centuries and many beautifully preserved medieval towns.

ITALY

by travellers in favour of its more hyped neighbours. But cognoscenti

When it comes to eating, hotel guests are spoilt for dining options at the Castello, with much of the produce used in Reschio’s kitchens coming directly from the estate’s organic kitchen garden, forests, olive

Located in the Umbrian hills on Italy’s Umbria-Tuscany border, the

groves, beehives and vineyards. Located in the western ramparts of the

massive Reschio estate was bought by Count Antonio Bolza in 1994. In

castle, the expansive fig tree-filled terrace of Ristorante Al Castello is

the years since, the family has set about lovingly restoring the estate’s

the perfect place to enjoy the sunset. Meanwhile the hotel’s beautiful

many ruins, with the Count assuming responsibility for every project.

Palm Court offers a different place to relax with a book, enjoy tea and

His involvement goes way beyond the norm, working hand-in-hand with

cakes or simply marvel at the lofty iron columns and vast glass ceiling

owners to turn crumbling farmhouses that dot the estate into one-of-a-

that have transformed this corner of the castle’s courtyard into an

kind private homes.

impressive space. Yet wherever you go in the hotel, a unique magic fills

Until mid-2021, the estate was accessible only to homeowners and

the air, effortless Italian style is evident everywhere, witty and whimsical

select rental guests. But that changed when Reschio’s thousand-year-

touches enthrall and traces of the castle’s past nod to the characters

old castle - the veritable jewel in the estate’s crown - opened its doors

who once resided within its ancient walls, making any stay at Castello di

as a meticulously restored and stylishly reimagined 36-room hotel,

Reschio an utterly inimitable Umbrian experience.

restaurant and spa.

www.reschio.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

K YOTO

HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO

JAPAN

ONE OF JAPAN’S LARGEST CITIES, KYOTO IS LOCATED ON

family – Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto is the only luxury property located in the

the island of Honshu and served as the country’s capital and

city centre with its own onsite natural spring water source. Consequently,

the emperor’s residence from 794 until 1868. Over the centuries, it was

the hotel’s sprawling Thermal Spring Spa features two private onsen

ravaged by a number of wars and fires. But thankfully, due to its immense

pools, a thermal spring, a well-equipped gym and four treatment rooms

historical value, the city was dropped from the list of those targeted for

boasting views of the hotel’s enchanting gardens.

the atomic bomb during World War II and escaped destruction. Consequently, a number of classic Buddhist temples, ornate gardens,

A rare Japanese-owned property amongst the city’s numerous international brands, the new-build hotel was developed by a bevy of

Imperial palaces, Shinto shrines and traditional wooden houses survive

award-winning designers to showcase the hospitality for which Kyoto is

today, making Kyoto Japan’s cultural hub, with many of the country’s

famed and appeal to local and international guests like. Kimono-clad staff

unique traditions also originating in the ancient capital. Many of these

greet guests in front of an ancient wooden gate which once marked the

traditions still remain today - including kaiseki dining and geisha - and

entrance to the Mitsui residence. 161 rooms and suites were designed by

can be experienced in Kyoto’ s historic districts, including Arashiyama

Hong Kong’s Andre Fu. The hotel is wrapped around a gorgeous, expansive

and Gion.

garden complete with ponds, flowering trees, bridges and stepping-

Hot springs or onsen are also very popular across the country, with hot

stones. And the gastronomic entertainment is provided by Italian trained

spring culture in Japan dating back to 700 AD and linked to maintaining

chef Shozo Sugano via two unique onsite restaurants, one combining

healthy and beautiful skin, alleviating muscle pain and relieving fatigue

traditional Japanese cuisine with French cooking techniques in a

and stress.

‘Gastronomy Teppan’ experience, while the other marries provincial Italian cooking methods and Japanese ingredients in its oven-roasted dishes

Located just opposite Nijo Castle on the site of the former Aburanokoji Residence – the Kyoto home of the executive branch of the powerful Mitsui

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and wood-fired pizzas. www.hotelthemitsui.com

V E RSAI LLE S

AIRELLES CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES, LE GRAND CONTRÔLE LOCATED 16 KILOMETRES FROM PARIS AND CONTAINING

it into an opulent palace into which he installed the French court and the

some 2,300 rooms spread over more than 60,000 square

government of France in 1682, creating one of the grandest theatres of

F R ANCE

metres, the Palace of Versailles is a vast and monumental estate of staggeringly epic proportions. Originally a hunting lodge for Louis XIII, his son, King Louis XIV turned

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European absolutism. Up until the French Revolution, a line of successive kings each took his turn to embellish the palace. It then became the French History Museum

under Louis-Philippe. Listed for the past 30 years as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Palace of

Each of Le Grand Contrôle’s 14 rooms and suites is named after a prominent individual who had a strong association with the palace. Lovingly

Versailles constitutes one of the finest achievements of French 17th century

reimagined by Christophe Tollemer and individually decorated in an elegant

art and is one of the most visited cultural sites in the world today. Now you can

18th century style, all feature authentic colours and fabrics, chandeliers,

spend a night in palatial surrounds within the Palace of Versailles’ grounds.

artworks and artefacts. In his selection of 17th and 18th century art and objects for Le Grand Contrôle, Tollemer worked closely with Emmanuelle

A wonderfully discreet boutique hotel, Le Grand Contrôle encompasses three

Vidal-Delagneau - a highly experienced specialist in French heritage and art.

historic buildings situated within the palace’s spectacular grounds, enabling

The result is simply magnificent and, in tandem with cuisine conceptualised

guests to take an exclusive peek into the enchanting world of Versailles,

by Alain Ducasse, to stay at Le Grand Contrôle is undoubtedly a once-in-a-

explore the 2,000-acre gardens and walk the same great halls and grand

lifetime experience.

apartments that were walked by Europe’s elite for centuries.

https://airelles.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

WIN a deluxe

four-night mediterranean stay at the residence tunis

S P E N D F O U R S U N - D R E N C H E D D AY S A N D B A L M Y N I G H T S IN A SUMPTUOUS SEA VIEW ROOM OVERLOOKING THE G U L F O F T U N I S , I N C LU D I N G D A I LY B R E A K FA S T S , O N E D I N N E R F O R T W O A N D L O CA L A I R P O RT T R A N S F E R S 46

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P R I Z E D R AW

SET ON THE MEDITERRANEAN overlooking the Gulf of Tunis in Gammarth, The Residence Tunis is a deluxe beachfront property designed in a distinctive ArabAndalusian style, which seamlessly combines palatial features with an intimate ambience. Located just a twenty-minute drive from the airport, the hotel is perfectly positioned to explore Carthage’s many treasures as well as visit a variety of UNESCO World Heritage sites close-by. A favourite of diplomats and dignitaries all over the world, guests accommodated in The Residence Tunis’ 161 rooms and 9 suites feast upon a world of flavours at the hotel’s six seasonal onsite restaurants and bars, which offer a range of global cuisines, including Tunisian, Mediterranean and Chinese. The hotel is also renowned for its huge, awardwinning spa and thalasso centre. Inspired by ancient Rome, The Spa & Thalasso features 18 treatment rooms and an Oriental hammam as well as indoor and outdoor pools. Crowning The Residence Tunis’ extensive leisure facilities is its 18-hole, par 72 golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones II. www.residencetunis.com

TO E N TE R

Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1 June 2022 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 1 June 2023 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates will apply. The prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

L E T T H E R E B E L I G H T, A R T & C U S TA R D TA R T S

N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U A N D J A C K I E N E E D L E M A N I N V E S T I G A T E

T H E C A P T I VAT I N G C I T Y O F S E V E N H I L L S A N D D I S C O V E R T H E S E C R E T B E H I N D T H E P O R T U G U E S E C A P I T A L’ S R E N O W N E D L I G H T

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B O N

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

HERE’S SOMETHING WARM and welcoming about Portugal’s capital which is palpable on arrival, even during these strange times in which we now live. The security staff at Humberto Delgado Airport are noticeably polite and engaging as they check arriving visitors’ Covid credentials. In taxis on the way into the city, outgoing drivers attempt to converse with passengers and offer genuine advice. And hospitable hotel staff couldn’t be

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more accommodating as you check-in. For those who have travelled around Europe and often experienced quite the opposite when arriving into a capital, the kindness felt on arriving into Lisbon can be a little unnerving, or even prompt you to question people’s motives. Don’t. The Portuguese are genuinely affable. Enjoy their warmhearted nature and do as I did and get straight out into Lisbon’s characterful streets as soon as you’ve dropped your bags in your room, for Lisbon is one of the most colourful and authentic cities in Europe and you simply must enjoy every minute of it.

CITY FOCUS LISBON

TAKING ON DIFFERENT FORMS AT DIFFERENT times, depending on the time of your arrival, the first thing you may notice about Lisbon is its unique light, which is especially evident towards the end of the day, late in the afternoon, during the golden hour before the sun sets. In some parts of the city it is truly magical, verging on surreal. Somewhat shape-shifting and widely considered to be an untouchable icon of the city, painters, writers and poets have long been inspired by Lisbon’s light – known as A Luz de Lisboa – and renowned photographers and filmmakers have

attempted to capture it. But nothing makes up for the real thing – seeing it for yourself. Not only does Lisbon have considerably more annual sunshine hours than most European cities, thanks to its position in the south west of the continent, but the Portuguese capital is a city of seven hills facing the sea and they very much play a part. Combined, these elevations act as a light amphitheatre of sorts, collecting the light reflected by the river and surrounding hills and concentrating it in the city’s centre.

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

Then there’s the fabric and colour of the city’s buildings and pavements. Lisbon is largely built with light coloured materials which attract, reflect and scatter the light, intensifying its glow. Buildings are constructed with an abundance of white limestone and Portuguese Lioz and many famously have tiled facades. Beneath traditional tiled roofs, houses are painted in warm shades of pale pink, sandy yellow and rich ochre and sit on cobblestone pavements. All of these materials and colours differ from other European cities and contribute to Lisbon’s unique light. And as sunset approaches, one of the best places to experience it is either at one of the renowned viewpoints scattered throughout the city centre, or from one of Lisbon’s most famous landmarks, Ponte 25 de Abril.

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COMPLETED IN 1966 AND STRETCHING FOR MORE than 2,250 metres across the Tejo Estuary at its narrowest point, Ponte 25 de Abril is the longest suspension bridge in Europe and connects the city of Lisbon to the municipality of Almada on the left bank of the Tagus River. Originally named after dictator Salazar, the bridge changed its name after the Carnation Revolution of 25 April 1974 which overthrew the remnants of Salazar’s regime. Contained within the seventh pillar – which is a key anchor point on the northern side of the bridge, located in Alcântara – the PILAR 7 experience opened five years ago providing visitors with a series of physical, sensorial and intellectual encounters. Taking in the birds-eye vistas of the city and river while watching the sun set from its panoramic

CITY FOCUS LISBON

Ponte 25 de Abril

26th-floor viewing deck, that literally hugs the roadway, is a worthwhile and memorable experience and will give you a fantastic perspective of Lisbon. For the more adventurous, the experience is even better from its protruding glass-floored balcony, but this is not for the faint hearted!

LX Factory

WITHIN A FEW MINUTES’ WALK OF PILAR 7, ALSO in Alcântara, LX Factory became one of Lisbon’s hottest addresses almost overnight, when its dilapidated industrial spaces were turned into offices, shops, restaurants and bars. It has remained popular with visitors and locals alike. Because none of the buildings’ exteriors have been touched and their authentic industrial interiors remain and are indeed celebrated in the décor of new businesses, the entire complex oozes a gritty yet hip and cool feel. Some shops and restaurants have cleverly incorporated defunct machinery into their contemporary design, making LX Factory one of the city’s most interesting places to shop and dine, especially at weekends, when everyone visits for brunch and a Sunday market that sells everything from handicrafts to fashion accessories. ➤ https://lxfactory.com/en

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

Occupying a large, former printworks, Ler Devagar bookstore is not to be missed. Often name-checked as one of the world’s most beautiful, more than 40,000 new titles and some 10,000 used books are stacked up to the ceiling around an old printing press which remains on an upper floor of four. ➤ https://lerdevagar.com/en

Giant bee art by Bordallo II

AT LX FACTORY YOU WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY notice the street art, including a giant bee close to the entrance, made by young Portuguese artist Bordalo II using pieces of trash. The tip of the city’s street art scene, Bordalo II is just one of many talented artists who together have created in Lisbon one of the largest collections of street art anywhere in Europe. Indeed, if you are a street art aficionado, visiting Lisbon will feel like Christmas morning, since hundreds of works, many by famous names, are literally scattered around the city, making the Portuguese capital something of a yearround open-air art gallery, with new pieces added all the time. It all began during the revolution in April 1974, when political murals appeared around the city. Today, street art is even sponsored by the city council, which has spent considerable sums to entice world-famous artists to decorate Lisbon’s buildings. Just outside the centre, between downtown Lisbon and the so-called Oriente area of the city, the social housing neighbourhood of Quinta do Marquês de Abrantes in Marvila

Ler Devagar bookshop

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Elevador de Santa Justa

CITY FOCUS LISBON

Lisbon's famous custard tarts

boasts dozens of large-scale murals by some of the bestknown international street artists, including Cix, Steep, Jhon Douglas, Eduardo Kobra and Guilherme Kramer. A little rough around the edges, it’s perhaps best to visit this area in the company of an experienced local guide. The Cultured Traveller recommends Epifânio Fonseca at Eco Tuk Guide ➤ www.tukguideportugal.pt LISBON’S FOOD SCENE IS ALMOST AS COLOURFUL and varied as its street art. It ranges from deliciously cooked pork served in a bun, known as a Bifana, which is quite possibly the ultimate street food, and backstreet taverns serving big dishes of traditional Portuguese fare family-style, to seafood restaurants preparing the freshest catches for discerning diners and fine-dining establishments providing the well-to-do with a premium gastronomic experience. Everyone

is catered for in Lisbon and the choice of eateries is immense. If you’re out and about and fancy something sweet, you cannot visit Lisbon without trying one of the custard tarts that the city is renowned for. DELICIOUSLY SOFT AND SWEET PASTEIS DE NATA ARE both a cult and a staple in Portugal. They were invented more than 170 years ago by the monks of the Jerónimos Monastery in the neighbourhood of Belém, who were trying to make ends meet after the government closed religious institutions. The monks sold their pastries to Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, which started making them popular with locals who visited Belém for a stroll. Today, the same blue and white-tiled temple to eggs, cream, sugar and pastry is known simply as Pastéis de Belém and sells thousands of custard tarts every day. Belém is around 20 minutes in a taxi from the city centre,

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

so if you’re not visiting the stunning church of Santa Maria de Belém and adjoining Jerónimos Monastery (which are well worth visiting), the best place to get a custard tart in the middle of Lisbon is Manteigaria at 2 Rua do Loreto in Chaido, on the edge of Barrio Alto. Here you can watch them make pasteis de nata using high quality butter in their puff pastry, resulting in the most delicious custard tarts in the city. ➤ manteigaria.oficial FROM CUSTARD TART HEAVEN, IT IS A FIVE-MINUTE walk to calm Largo do Carmo, named for the convent which which once took centre stage in the plaza. Today, the moving ruins of the convent’s church are a poignant memorial to the 1755 earthquake which destroyed much of Lisbon and killed thousands of people, and Largo do Carmo is one of the city’s many wonderful squares punctuated by trees and historic buildings. Take a seat, catch your breath and sip a quick espresso for less than a Euro, before boarding a unique piece of Lisbon history. LIKE THE VINTAGE STREETCARS THAT RATTLE through Portugal’s capital, the Elevador de Santa Justa is not only a convenient means of transportation – providing a quick link between Largo do Carmo and Baixa – but has also become an inimitable Lisbon attraction. Quite possibly the world’s most beautiful elevator, designed by Portugal native Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, this elaborate 19th century industrial-age architectural wonder transports passengers up and down 50 metres within a Gothic tower. A viewing platform on the top affords tourists a unique perspective of downtown Lisbon.

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FROM RUA DE SANTA JUSTA, AT THE BOTTOM OF the elevator, it’s barely ten minutes on foot, via Lisbon’s main pedestrian street of Rua Augusta, to Comercio Square. The Portuguese calçada mosaics of limestone and black basalt that pave the street are beautiful, but don’t shop or eat on Rua Augusta. Instead make your way directly to the imposing Rua Augusta Arch at the end. Originally designed to be a bell tower, construction of majestic Rua Augusta Arch began in 1755 to commemorate the city’s rebirth after the earthquake of the same year

CITY FOCUS LISBON

that virtually flattened the city. The arch wasn’t officially completed until some 120 years later. Open to the public since 2013, climbing to the top (part lift/part stairs) provides visitors with an incredible 360-degree panorama of Lisbon, including sweeping views of the River Tagus. The arch is crowned by a mammoth sculpture created by French sculptor Célestin Anatole Calmels. Standing by a giant foot of the sculpture’s main figure, with Lisbon literally at your feet, it’s impossible not to fall in love with the Portuguese capital at that very moment, if you haven’t done so already.

RESOLUTELY AUTHENTIC, BOASTING A RICH cultural heritage and quite literally bursting at the seams with an array of diverse experiences, Lisbon is undoubtedly one of Europe’s most original and charismatic cities. If you take time to walk its seven hills, investigate its alluring streets, eat local foods, talk to the Portuguese and bathe in the city’s unique light, you will almost certainly be bowled over by the innate romance of Lisbon and soon be planning to return for more. ➤ www.visitlisboa.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

private collections of art in the world. One of Europe’s unsung cultural treasures and formerly the private collection of a single man, oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian, the museum encompasses thousands of pieces of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic, Asian and European art, and its modern collection comprises more than 10,000 pieces. The Gulbenkian’s collection of exquisite art nouveau pieces by French jeweller René Lalique must also be seen.

https://gulbenkian.pt/museu

At the time of the decimating 1755 earthquake, the Igreja do Carmo Church was the

Carmo Archaeological Museum

largest in Lisbon. Today, with the arches and pillars of its nave open

to the sky, the enigmatic ruins of HETHER YOU ARE BASED IN

this gothic church are a reminder

bohemian Barrio Alto, historic

of the disaster. Adjoining the ruins,

Alfama or perched atop one of its many hills,

the convent was repurposed as the

Lisbon is a city which you can wander around

Carmo Archaeological Museum.

aimlessly at your own pace, with no particular

Amongst its many fascinating

plan, and still chance upon traditionally tiled

exhibits are prehistoric artefacts,

buildings, magnificent architecture or stunning

Moorish friezes, pre-Colombian

street art at every turn. In fact, if your visit to the

pottery and a chapel tiled in

Portuguese capital is just two or three days long,

Gulbenkian

don’t attempt to see everything. On the contrary,

pick a couple of places that especially interest you and spend the rest of your time enjoying the

A UNESCO World Heritage site

city’s inimitable atmosphere, for Lisbon is an

funicular, but slightly less busy is the Miradouro

located in Belém district, no more than 15 minutes

authentic and multifaceted city which you will only

do Graça on the tram 28 route. From here, the view

from the centre in a taxi, the incredibly ornate

appreciate if you leisurely tread its narrow streets

across the city towards Castelo de São Jorge is

16th century Jerónimos Monastery is a visual

and alleyways.

simply spectacular.

architectural feast with its intricate stonework,

To get some perspective at the start of

Located in the very heart of Lisbon and set

plaited arches and twisted turrets. Exemplifying

your visit, first head to one of Lisbon’s many

within acres of beautiful, modern gardens which

Portugal’s Late Gothic Manueline style, the huge,

Miradoures or viewpoints. One of the best is São

are some of the most emblematic in Portugal, the

breathtaking building is well worth seeing even if

Pedro de Alcântara at the top of the famous Glória

Gulbenkian Museum houses one of the largest

you only view it from the outside and pop into the

Jerónimos Monastery

Belém Tower

gorgeous Baroque glazed tiles. http://museuarqueologicodocarmo.

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CITY FOCUS LISBON

SEE M U S T- S E E S I G H T S I N T H E

CA P T I VAT I N G C I T Y O F L I S B O N

Bordallo II

Vhils

vast main chapel which is free to enter.

www.

patrimoniocultural.gov.pt An easy quarter-of-an-hour level walk from the monastery, the Tower of Saint Vincent - known locally as the Belém Tower - is a fairytale-like

Shepard Fairey

fortification that was built in 1514-1520 to defend Lisbon. Today, the tower is an icon of Lisbon and characteristic of a nation historically moulded by Impossible to see every work in one visit, do try to

walls and other media with non-conventional tools

see some of Artur Bordalo’s creations, who tags

and techniques. There are many examples of both

his work Bordalo II in tribute to his grandfather.

Bordallo II and Vhils’ work in Lisbon. A striking piece

art collection. Combined, the dozens if not

Bordalo II uniquely fashions all of his art from

by famous American artist Shepard Fairey, of a

hundreds of works, many by world-famous artists,

trash. Meanwhile Alexandre Farto, otherwise known

woman holding a gun with a flower in the barrel, is a

collectively form an open-air gallery which

as Vhils, has developed a unique visual language

throwback to some of the revolutionary murals that

stretches from one end of the city to the other.

based on the removal of the surface layers of

once filled Lisbon’s streets. You will find it in Rua

its proximity to the ocean and its global maritime discoveries.

www.torrebelem.pt

Last but by no means least is Lisbon’s street

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

boutique property. Sympathetically converted into a 21st century hotel by architects Helder Cordeiro and João Pedro Pedras, the building is home to just 47 apartments and penthouses, each with its own well-equipped kitchen. Feeling less like a hotel and more like an upscale residential building with a team of attentive concierges, the atmosphere throughout is calm, collected and sophisticated. As opposed to the surrounding streets, there is little hustle and bustle actually in The Lumiares,

THE LUMIARES HOTEL & SPA

residing at a calm hospitality haven. Swing open the huge windows in your room to let the natural light flood in, and you can hear and feel the sounds and life of Lisbon just a few metres below

LITERALLY MEANING ‘UPPER NEIGHBOURHOOD’

of this mélange, directly opposite the Glória

you. But once they’re closed and the blinds shut

and one of Lisbon’s most picturesque quarters,

Funicular tram and Miradouro de São Pedro

at the touch of a button, rooms feel like retreats,

dating back to the early 1500s, Bairro Alto has

de Alcântara, the latter being one of Lisbon’s

which makes them the perfect place to recharge

traditionally been the city’s bohemian haunt for

must-see viewpoints, facing the castle. Running

for the next busy day.

artists, writers and creative types. Considered by

since 1885, the Glória Funicular connects Bairro

In the basement, an elegant spa and small

many to be the artistic heart of the Portuguese

Alto with Restauradores Square downtown via a

but well-equipped fitness room are available for

capital, tradition meets cheekiness in every

three-minute ride. Walking down is actually more

guests to relax and unwind. While crowning The

corner of Bairro Alto, and over the weekends,

fun – it’s for the journey back up to Bairro Alto that

Lumiares on the top floor, the Lumi restaurant

its maze of narrow roads weaving up and down

you’ll need Glória!

and bar offers tasty fare served all day and night,

Created in collaboration with a collection of

complete with fantastic views over Lisbon’s red

funky wine bars. The perfect place to be based if

Portuguese brands, tastemakers and artists and

roofs towards the River Tagus on one side and

you like your city breaks hip and happening, The

housed within a lovingly restored 18th century

the Castelo de São Jorge on the other.

Lumiares is located atop a hill in the very heart

palace, The Lumiares is a chic yet relaxed

the hill comes alive with tiny street cafés and

which makes staying in the building feel much like

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www.thelumiares.com

STAY T WO S TA N D O U T, C E N T R A L LY- L O CAT E D L I S B O N H O T E L S

THE VINTAGE CONVENIENTLY POSITIONED BETWEEN THE TWO POPULAR AREAS OF AVENIDA

discerning globetrotters with everything they could possibly need for a city

da Liberdade and Bairro Alto in the Principe Real district of Lisbon a little north of

break in Portugal’s vibrant capital. For those who have travelled a distance to get

the centre, The Vintage is located in a charming, leafy and quiet neighbourhood

to Lisbon, the spa offers a very good signature massage to combat the effects

within easy reach of the city’s main cultural attractions and tourist hotspots.

of jet lag.

Principe Real is a hive of cool concept stores and buzzy restaurants, while tree-

Upstairs, 56 guest rooms and suites have been thoughtfully styled with

lined Avenida da Liberdade – one of Lisbon’s most important boulevards and

clean-lined contemporary interiors by Spanish-based Quiet Studios, to convey

high-end shopping streets – is just 300-metres from the hotel. Connecting the

the spirit of modern Lisbon. Each sports a different, carefully curated colour

two landmark Lisbon squares of Praça dos Restauradores and Praça Marquês

palette to create a DIFFERENT atmosphere in each space and facilitate

de Pombal, the avenue is one of the city’s main arteries. Within walking distance

inspiration, relaxation or playfulness as guests’ moods take them. All rooms

of The Vintage, the Gulbenkian Museum is a half-hour stroll from the hotel and

are furnished with a combination of original and bespoke vintage pieces which

Lisbon’s waterfront and Comercio Square are roughly 25-minutes away on foot.

are both functional and easy on the eye and walls are hung with interesting

Understated and restrained whilst sporting a sophisticated ambiance, The

prints by Brian de Graft and João Rei. Details abound throughout The Vintage’s

Vintage is a cool and laidback boutique hotel staffed by an affable team for

accommodation, which showcase the best of Portugal’s family-owned and

whom nothing is apparently too much trouble. Stylish and playful, the hotel is

artisanal producers. The Cultured Traveller particularly loves the trolley bar

defined by a modern mid-century design aesthetic and features chic minimalist

carts in every room, loaded with Portuguese gin and mixers, so that guests can

interiors, a cosy rooftop bar, relaxing lounge areas, a small fitness room and

knock-up their own in-room G&T before a night on the town.

a luxe subterranean spa. In a nutshell, The Vintage provides today’s most

www.thevintagelisbon.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

ne of the continent’s fastest-shifting cities and the European capital which has most upped its tourist game in the past decade, to visit

Lisbon is to be immersed in a cultural and gastronomic hotpot which is as varied as the buildings on its charming streets. Seducing visitors with a vast range of eating options, everything from street food to fine dining is prepared with care and served with love in Lisbon, so you can eat well inexpensively or feast on the finest foods money can buy. And a new generation of talented chefs is producing modern Portuguese cuisine of world-class standards. If you’re a dedicated foodie, the ideal way to get a broad overview of Lisbon’s flourishing culinary scene is to book a half-day food tour with a professional, local guide, such as Rita Azevedo of Lisboa Autentica. This way you can relax and be walked through the city’s backstreets, directly to the places that

Cervejaria Liberdade

serve the best custard tarts, cheeses, ports, canned fish, pork buns and traditional Portuguese dishes in Lisbon, including Zé da Mouraria. Tucked away on a narrow alleyway in one of Lisbon’s oldest districts, Zé da Mouraria

literally behind a pair of saloon doors, Zé da Mouraria is a long-established, hidden tavern for Lisboetas in the know. Here, homey and hearty local fare is served

BAHR

family-style, including traditional Bacalhau Assado (grilled cod fish with potatoes) and Iscas à Portuguesa (liver with potatoes). Nuno Mendes

https://lisboaautentica.com At the other end of the smart spectrum and set within hospitality landmark Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, which has been hosting heads of state and international celebrities for more than 80 years, Cervejaria Liberdade is a Lisbon culinary fixture and is a more upscale dining option for those who wish to feast on the freshest seafood and tasty Portuguese meat dishes. Here the napkins are linen, the food is excellent, the wine list impresses

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inside for a themed dining experience which largely consists of sophisticated petiscos (tapas) based on the gastronomic traditions of the Algarve. Relaxed, fun and buzzy, Pharmacia is the perfect place to kick-off a night out in Lisbon.

www.chef-felicidade.pt

The perfect place to start, spend or end a night, Lumi is one of the city’s most relaxed and cosy rooftops, situated atop the Lumiares hotel in the heart of Barrio Alto. The reasonably priced cocktails at Lumi are excellent and the delicious food, courtesy of chef João Silva, is an unpretentious marriage of contemporary and traditional Portuguese cuisine presented on small and large plates to share. The green bean tempura and spicy garlic king prawns are both musts. Terrific views and affable staff complete Lumi’s humble appeal.

www.thelumiares.com

Pharmacia

and the attentive service ensures a memorable night. End your meal with classic Crêpe Suzette flambéed table-side and you’ll surely leave Cervejaria Liberdade on a culinary high.

www.tivolihotels.com

Standing in Praça de Camões – which is one of Lisbon’s prettiest squares – Bairro Alto Hotel is the grande dame of Lisbon’s boutique hotel scene and on its fifth floor, restaurant BAHR, helmed by much lauded Portuguese celebrity chef Nuno Mendes, boasts one of the city’s best terraces, complete with panoramic views across Lisbon and the river. The perfect place to have weekend brunch or simply pit stop for a drink and some tapas to recharge, the atmosphere is relaxed and the staff are attentive. BAHR also has a rather excellent wine list.

www.bahr.pt

Set within a centuries-old mansion that was once the residence of a rich Portuguese family, thus making quite the first impression, Pharmacia is a quirky restaurant that shares its home with the Museu de Farmácia in Lisbon’s Santa Catarina district, which is a delightful part of the city. Sip a pre-dinner

Lumi

aperitivo and enjoy the river views on the lawn out front before moving

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Red Frog

coffee is drunk. For a historic caffeine fix, visit the city’s oldest public café, Cafe Martinho Da Arcada, which is located within the colonnades of Commercio Sud Lisboa

Square and first opened its doors in 1782. www.martinhodaarcada.pt A sweet cherry liqueur that originated in Lisbon,

Ginja is drunk all over the city morning, noon and CITY THAT REALLY LIKES A GOOD

night. Locals often have a shot during the day as a

drink, such is the multitude of

pick-me-up. Served straight up in a shot glass, with

homegrown Portuguese beverages on offer

or without a liquor-soaked cherry in the bottom as

in Lisbon that there is literally something

you wish, a shot will cost you around one Euro from a

for everyone to drink, and it has most likely

multitude of tiny Ginjinha bars scattered around the

not travelled far to get to your glass. From

city. Open since 1840 and run by the same family to

rooftop bars boasting panoramic city vistas

date, A Ginjinha bar is one of the most popular and

to sophisticated wine bars, microbreweries,

there’s often a chatty, friendly crowd out front over

cafés on every square and vineyards just out of

the weekends.

town, there are plenty of places to pit-stop and

https://ginjinhaespinheira.com

For spectacular views of the River Tagus and Pont

enjoy a glass of punchy Douro or an expertly

de 15 Abril bridge, 10 minutes out of town in a taxi,

handcrafted cocktail.

Sud Lisboa is a slick, purpose-built lifestyle bar and restaurant complex which is the perfect place to

In the 18th century, Portugal was the world’s largest producer of coffee, so unsurprisingly today, the coffeehouse is an institution in the Portuguese capital. On pretty much every square in Lisbon, you will find a kiosk-like outlet which dispenses everything from coffee to wine from morning to night. For whilst Lisboetas are always on-the-go, especially in the mornings, they always make time for a bica, Lisbon’s version of an espresso shot, which is usually taken short, creamy and slightly bitter. Since the average espresso costs just EUR 0.70 in Lisbon, a lot of

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SIP WHERE TO GET A GOOD DRINK IN THE H O S P I TA B L E P O R T U G U E S E CA P I TA L park yourself for an hour or so to watch the world go by, literally on the water’s edge. Everyone from local celebrities to international pop stars have frequented Sud Lisboa and the venue’s stunning infinity pool is very popular in the summer months. https://sudlisboa.com Unveiled late last year and unashamedly theatrical, having been designed by Barcelonabased designer Lázaro Rosa-Violan, Rocco at The Ivens hotel is one of Lisbon’s newest hotspots. Indeed, there are few better places in the Portuguese capital to people-watch and enjoy a cocktail in glamorous surroundings. Take a seat on a decadent, floral-print-clad barstool at the gleaming marble bar counter and choose your Negroni from a special menu of many. https://www.rocco.pt Hailing from the north of the country, port is Portugal’s most famous alcoholic export and no visit to Lisbon is complete without sampling some local, sweet fortified wine. Of course, trying a few vintages is the best way to better appreciate port and its history. For a tailored experience, visit The Wine Room in Ajuda where the house sommelier, Carla Reis can tailor a tasting session to suit your palate.

wineroom.info@gmail.com

A subterranean venue just off Avenida Liberdade, those who pass by Red Frog in Rua do Salitre probably don’t notice it’s there, for despite its numerous accolades, the entrance is virtually hidden. A speakeasy-style bar inspired by the illegal venues during the prohibition era in the States, Red Frog is the place for a post-dinner nightcap and is open until 2am. Whilst the best concoctions tend to be the most complex, every cocktail served at Red Frog will leave you wanting another. Reservations are essential.

https://www.redfrog.pt

Rocco

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Conserveira de Lisboa

s the world becomes more globalised and travellers increasingly find

Galeria Tereza Seabra

Fora

the same stores in different capitals on opposite sides of the planet,

Portugal’s designers are bucking the trend, drawing inspiration from the past and embracing time-honoured craftsmanship to create fashion-forward pieces for today’s discerning, globetrotting clientele, thus making Lisbon one of Europe’s burgeoning new fashion hubs. Increasingly attracting international recognition, Portuguese brands are creative and modern, and their flagship stores in Lisbon are beautifully decorated, housed in historic buildings or showcase cutting-edge contemporary design. Combined with personal service, this makes shopping in Lisbon a complete pleasure. Here The Cultured Traveller rounds-up half a dozen Lisbon stores to splash some holiday cash: CONSERVEIRA DE LISBOA Run by Tiago Ferreira and his family since 1930, this

nostalgic food shop centrally located on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros in Baixa district, five minutes’ walk from Praça do Comércio, is beloved by Lisboans, Michelin judges and visitors alike for its vast collection of Portuguese canned fish, all lovingly hand wrapped. Whilst Conserveira de Lisboa is without a doubt the best place in Lisbon to buy the obligatory tins of sardines, here you will also find tuna, cod, squid, eel and octopus in various flavoured marinades, oils and brines, plus a number of unique and delicious creations. Wrapped in designs that date back decades, a few tins make the perfect gift for a fish-loving friend. www.conserveiradelisboa.pt EMBAIXADA Located in the heart of Príncipe Real, which is brimming with indie stores, Embaixada is something of an artisan shopping emporium that showcases Portuguese fashion and design, and includes spaces dedicated to the arts and temporary exhibitions. Set within a magnificent, palatial, Moorish-inspired 19th century building with Art Nouveau detailing, known as Palacete Ribeiro da Cunha, the setting couldn’t be more glamorous for a spot of retail therapy. Within the walls of Embaixada, around a dozen different retailers promote Portuguese design creativity and innovation. There is also a steak house in the building for those who wish to pit-stop for lunch and a lovely garden out back which is perfect for a G&T in the summer sunshine. www.embaixadalx.pt FORA Since Lisbon is one of Europe’s most sunny capitals, it goes without saying that you’ll be needing a least one pair of shades when you visit the Portuguese capital. Inspired by vintage classics, FORA’s chic, high-quality sunglasses are handmade in Portugal using the same old-fashioned

Embaixada

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techniques as 50 years ago. Today, FORA sunglasses are as popular in Paris and Berlin as they are in the brand’s homeland.

https://fora.pt

GALERIA TEREZA SEABRA Located in the creative hub of Bairro Alto, Galeria Tereza Seabra is part exhibition space, part workshop and part store, all contained with a characterful former 18th century factory. Today the space is occupied by a small number of European jewellery designers quietly producing artistic, handmade pieces. Recycling 19th century Portuguese coral and combining it with shimmering new rose gold, gallery owner Tereza Seabra’s jewellery is especially covetable.

https://galeriaterezaseabra.com

CLAUS PORTO Founded in 1887 by two German businessmen who met in Porto and decided to set up the country’s first soap and fragrance factory, Claus Porto produces a luxe range of perfumes, soaps, bath and body products with

Luvaria Ulisses

an unmistakably style. More than 130 years later, Claus Porto is one of Portugal’s most iconic brands. Today merging art with fragrance, whilst its flagship store is in Porto, five years ago Claus Porto opened a gorgeous boutique on Rua das Gáveas in the historic neighbourhood of Chiado, which aptly occupies an old pharmacy, pictured. Claus Porto

https://clausporto.com

LUVARIA ULISSES Founded in 1925 and also located in Chiado, Luvaria Ulisses is entirely dedicated to the production and sale of premium handmade leather gloves. One of Lisbon’s most beloved and historical shops, Luvaria Ulisses is the last remaining glove shop in the whole of Portugal. Inside its tiny portals, gloves are painstakingly produced using the same traditional techniques and tools that have been used since the shop opened almost a century ago, with every pair of gloves being uniquely fitted to its wearer.

www.luvariaulisses.com

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Did you travel much as a young man?

We were a workingclass family in a small village, so travelling was a complete adventure and a rare luxury. My first real travel, out of the boundary of my village, was to visit the south of France. There I discovered the landscape, different tastes, the colourful markets, new flavours, colours and textures in the food and the extraordinary Provence light. I also encountered art and different architecture inspired by the fabric and history of the region. It was the most enriching experience. The sound of the crickets and the immensity of the turquoise sea - it was like entering a different country. Tell us about your first job in the UK.

N WITH IN CONVERSATIO

raymond blanc R O U T I N E LY N A M E C H E C K E D A S O N E O F T H E B E S T, R AY M O N D B L A N C ’ S C O O K I N G H A S E A R N E D H I M C O U N T L E S S AWA R D S , I N C LU D I N G T W O M I C H E L I N S TA R S AT L E M A N O I R AU X Q UAT ’ S A I S O N S , A B E L M O N D H O T E L . T H E A C C L A I M E D C H E F TA L K S T O T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R A B O U T H I S T R A V E L S

A N D T H E E V O LU T I O N O F F R E N C H C U I S I N E

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My first job in the UK was at the delightful 15th century Rose Revived inn on the Thames in Oxfordshire. I began as a waiter but the next minute I was the head chef. The food was so bad that the chef was fired and the boss asked if somebody could cook. Raising my hand at that moment changed my life completely. I bought the tallest chef’s hat, created a garden and changed the menu to wonderful childhood dishes that Maman Blanc had made. In no time the inn was packed. How did you move to cooking?

I had been training to become a draftsman, but I loved anything that was asymmetric and hated geometrical forms, so the job was not for me. I believe that everyone has something to offer so I searched for my passion. I became a nurse but that didn’t work. Then I worked in a factory, which was totally dehumanising and a horrendous experience. I had my lucky break when I spotted a wonderful restaurant in the middle of my city of Besançon, where the maître d’hôtel carved meat and fish and flambéed crêpes suzettes and the young waiters were dressed

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in classic Bordeau jackets with silver epaulettes. It was like a ballet. The sophisticated guests enjoying it all added to the magic of this moment. It was then that I fell completely and irretrievably in love with food and the idea of becoming a chef. But I got a job as a cleaner, rather than a chef. I quickly became the best cleaner. I then became a pot washer, glass cleaner and waiter. It was at this restaurant that I learnt that a successful business is made up of extraordinarily passionate individuals creating the perfect ensemble and giving the guests the most magical moments of their lives, nothing less. When I was finally closer to the kitchen, I wanted to create a connection with the chef, so I told him that his sauces could be lighter, using less cream and less butter. Unfortunately he didn’t take it well. Suddenly his moustache bristled, his eyes darkened and he grabbed a copper pan and flung it in my face at full force, breaking my jaw and knocking out two teeth. The boss came to see me in hospital and exiled me to England. So I arrived in England with lots of humility. Yet, whilst the chef broke my jaw he never managed to break my dream that one day I would touch excellence and create something truly beautiful.

soil, the garden, the seasons, the environment, the joy of the table, the power of sharing, the empowerment of knowledge and, most importantly, that food is an act of love. This is why I named my first restaurant Les Quat’Saisons, because the seasons define everything we do. Food scientist Edouard de Pomiane was also a truly great inspiration to me. Your views about the hospitality industry today?

Our industry is extraordinary and is made up of many components which connect with luxury and can give anyone the opportunity to succeed, for instance, hotel manager, maître d’, sommelier, head gardener, public relations consultant, brand specialist, chef patron or even owner. Yet our industry has failed to create structure or provide the youth with an

We were a working-class family of seven with little money, but this did not stop my mum from producing the most wonderful food and we ate like kings

You are famously self-taught. Who has most influenced your cooking over the years?

Without doubt, Maman Blanc. She didn’t have a brigade of chefs, fancy gadgets or high-tech equipment. She did not rely on the bleeping of a food probe or the ringing of a timer. Maman relied on her senses and her farming and gardening knowledge. These were her guides. She used the freshest organic ingredients from our garden and taught me to waste nothing. We were a working-class family of seven with little money, but this did not stop my mum from producing the most wonderful food and we ate like kings. She created the foundation of my food philosophy and taught me about the

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environment which is supported with training and a proper career path. Although it is the most extraordinary industry, it has failed to embrace the modern world. People do not want to work 60 hours per week and work weekends, over Christmas and on public holidays. So it is up to us to reinvent the industry to rebuild it, by introducing four-day week, stopping cruel split-shifts, providing a good work/life balance and paying proper wages, so we can make the industry more exciting and attract the crème de la crème. Then parents will want their children to join our industry. Today’s it is happening and I am doing as much as I can to help, but there is a long way to go.

When I received my first Michelin star within two years, it was a huge surprise since I was not expecting it

When you travel, do most of your experiences revolve around food?

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In my cuisine you will find lightness, seasonality at all times, a variety of techniques and extraordinary herbs and spices.

Many countries have provided me with extraordinary food and people experiences. But amongst the many,

Chiva-Som

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Sum up your cooking style in one sentence.

In which country have you eaten the best food?

Not necessarily, although my travels have always been a catalyst for my food creativity, all aspects of Le Manoir and my life. Travelling around

the world has hugely enriched every aspect of my life, be it art, architecture or of course food. And I have enriched my French culture by selectively incorporating elements of other cultures. Travelling has also provided me with many different design ideas to create new guest rooms and suites and gardens at Le Manoir, amongst them Japanese tea house, Malaysian and medicinal herb gardens, making the gardens the heart of Le Manoir.

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I love South East Asia’s casual food the most, due to its simplicity, spicing and flavouring – be it sour, bitter, acidic, herby or sweet – and the generosity by which food is always given. One of the greatest food experiences I have ever enjoyed was at talented chef Albert Adrià’s Tickets restaurant in Barcelona. Which country has left the most lasting impression on you?

Thailand mainly, because it is the first country where I discovered an abundance of herbs, spices and condiments that I had never before experienced and the country’s landscape is extraordinary and Thai culture is kind and welcoming. Your favourite hotel in the world?

For the past 23 years I have regularly visited Chiva-Som, which is a pioneering and transformative wellness resort in Hua Hin, Thailand, classed as one of the world’s best. Visiting Chiva-Som is my yearly fix to relax. Would you say that French cuisine is evolving?

For thousands of years, France has exported its gastronomy across the world. But France has not moved as much as it could, since it was restricted by its own traditions and didn’t embrace cultures from elsewhere. Many other countries with a strong food culture have done the same, including Italy, Spain and India. Thankfully today France is freeing itself and reinventing its food culture. One of the best meals I have eaten recently was at Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse at l’Hôtel de Paris in Monaco. A particular Provençale dish of slow cooked late autumn vegetables with truffle jus was just divine. I also enjoyed a wonderful dish of yellowtail and spider crab prepared by Arnaud Doneckele at La Vague d’Or in St Tropez. Arnaud was named the world’s best chef in 2019, so there is

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extremely happy and proud. Within two more years, I had two Michelin stars. Tell us about your new TV series.

I suggest that viewers wear a napkin when they watch my new show, because I am serving a wonderful feast of delicious dishes from my childhood, my travels, my restaurants and, of course, from my home. It’s all about having fun in the kitchen and indulging in the sheer pleasure of cooking and eating. The dishes are pretty easy to make. And in every episode, I share kitchen secrets, cooking tips and advice about growing vegetables at home. I am also joined by my chef friends and take a seat as they cook for me. Plus there are lots of recipes from my book Simply Raymond. The aim is to inspire viewers to throw themselves into cooking fabulous meals for family and friends and fill their homes with wonderful cooking aromas. Name young and up-and-coming chefs to look out for.

Ollie Dabbous, Luke Selby and Dorian Janmaat.

still plenty of French culinary talent and French gastronomy is still very much alive! How did it feel to be awarded your first Michelin star?

A friend of mine, Albert Roux phoned me in the middle of full service. Nobody phones me in the middle of service. So I answered the call and hung up immediately. Then the phone rang again while we were running a full service. I was so annoyed, but I answered the call and Albert said, “Raymond, Raymond, I’m your friend, give me just 10 seconds, I’ve got good tidings for you.” I said, “What is it? Quick.” He said, “You have your first Michelin star.” I have never worked for one minute under a chef, and the food that I cooked in my tiny kitchen was very much inspired by Maman Blanc’s bistro food. When I received my first Michelin star within two years, it was a huge surprise since I was not expecting it. Of course, I was

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Have either of your sons inherited your culinary talent?

Travelling around the world has hugely enriched every aspect of my life, be it art, architecture or of course food

I never pushed my sons to follow in my footsteps because it is a hugely demanding career path and you must be passionate about it. Whilst both of my sons enjoy cooking, they have chosen the arts as their professions. Who cooks at home?!

Having been cooking all day, the last thing that I want to do is cook at home. I am blessed that my partner Natalia insists she must cook for me. Not only am I grateful, I also never complain. She makes a great borscht and chicken soup which is tasty and wholesome. When you are not cooking, how do you relax?

Meditation, yoga, watching TV and making time to enjoy lunch or dinner with friends and family.

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A S M O R E O F U S TA K E T O T H E S K I E S A G A I N , T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R REVISITS SEVEN OF THE WORLD’S MOST INDULGENT HOTEL SUITES, I N H O N G KO N G , C O L O M B O, C A P E T O W N , PA P H O S , C A R T A G E N A ,

suite envy GOA AND THE STUNNING GREEN M O U N TA I N R E G I O N O F O M A N

OF THE WO R L D ’ S B EST SUITES André Fu Suite The Upper House Hong Kong

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HONG KONG

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IMAGES: ANDREW BEASLEY, ADRIAN HOUSTON

PACE COMES AT A PREMIUM IN HONG Kong, where the average price of real estate is higher than almost anywhere else in the world and urban development surges upwards rather than outwards. The tangle of tall office and residential buildings that cover every inch of Hong Kong Island’s prime commercial and financial hubs clamour for space as they soar to the sky, affording spectacular views of bustling Victoria Harbour and its throng of maritime life. Luxury real estate in the city routinely sets new records for the most expensive in Asia per square foot and continues to rise. It’s a situation worthy of contemplation as one gazes out

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on the walls of the suite. Furnishings, decorative lighting and home accessories handpicked from the André Fu Living Collection sit alongside a collection of artisan books from the designer’s personal library. Fine porcelain tableware delicately decorated with artisan brush gilding - adorns a giant dining table which can comfortably seat eighteen guests. Indeed, throughout the suite, from the sculptural ottoman to the fluidity and linear structure of the mid-century inspired furniture, every piece is an expression of Fu’s signature understated sophistication and fascination with craftsmanship. SPACIOUS YET INTIMATE, DECADENT YET INVITING and providing the privacy and creature comforts of a contemporary, luxe residence, the André Fu Suite enables guests to embrace their personal expression of living. Designed to enable socialising and relaxation in equal measure, it comes complete with a dedicated spa area with twin massage beds. The nightly rate for the André Fu Suite starts at HKD 60,000 inclusive of champagne breakfast, 90-minute wellness treatment for two and round-trip airport transfers. ➤ www.upperhouse.com

from André Fu Suite on the 48th floor of The Upper House, the aptly named boutique hotel which counts celebrities, business tycoons and the odd royal among its loyal guests. UNVEILED JUST A FEW YEARS AGO, THE ANDRÉ FU Suite is a sprawling space designed in homage to the enduring relationship between the hotel’s designer and The Upper House. It is Fu’s only namesake suite in the world. Enhancing Fu’s original design objective to create a sophisticated and modern residence-like hotel, the suite embodies Fu’s design ethos of relaxed luxury throughout its 180 square metres, and provides an insight into his personal journey with The Upper House that launched his career in the late 2000s. A CALMING COLOUR PALETTE OF MINERAL BLUE, dusky mink and pale ivory differentiates the space from other accommodation at The Upper House, and the suite’s design is a testament to the sensibilities of Fu and his ability to introduce a sense of serene simplicity into interiors. Original concept sketches of the hotel, drawn by hand, hang

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UILT DURING COLONIAL RULE WHEN Sri Lanka was known as Ceylon, Galle Face Hotel has been part of the nation’s heritage since 1864. It was then that four British entrepreneurs saw an opportunity to offer upmarket lodgings to the travelling elite, who had identified the island as a tropical destination and were visiting in steadily increasing numbers, especially from Europe. The hotel started its life as a much smaller Dutch villa called Galle Face House, borrowing its name from the vast green along the coast in front of it, which back then included a racecourse and promenade. Built one section at a time over the next three decades as land became available, it was, for several years, the oldest hotel east of Suez, predating Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental (1876), Mumbai’s Taj Mahal (1903), Singapore’s Raffles (1910) and Hong Kong’s Peninsula (1928). A CHARMING PLACE TO STAY WHICH EXUDES class, warmth and calm in one uniquely characterful building, to reside at Galle Face Hotel today is to revisit a bygone era, with staff routinely going out of their way to ensure that guests leave with fond memories. Those guests have included Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Mark Twain, Laurence Olivier, Indira Gandhi, Emperor Hirohito and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh. In fact, Prince Philip’s

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first car – a 1935 model Standard Nine – now enjoys pride of place in the hotel’s in-house museum. ONE OF THE LARGEST HOTEL SUITES IN THE SRI Lankan capital, The Empress Suite is named after the last French Empress, Eugénie de Montijo, who stayed for seven weeks at Galle Face Hotel in the late 1880s. A majestic dining area is separated from a regal lounge by two pairs of stately pillars. Tall doors from the lounge open onto a vast terrace facing Galle Face Green, which is large enough to host a large cocktail party. There are also three bedrooms, multiple balconies, oversized bathrooms and a half-kitchen. The master bathroom is a carefully crafted exercise in chic, contemporary design – all Italian marble, wooden floors and delicate lighting – skillfully juxtaposing the grandness of the suite with a dash of slick, modern living, complete with a walk-in shower big enough for four and a huge freestanding tub. Lavish, damask curtains drape down from the ceilings at every turn. The armchairs in the lounge are so deep that you sit in them rather than on them. And cushions are so plentiful and pillows so plush that once seated, guests are reluctant to ever leave the suite. The nightly rate for the Empress Suite starts at USD 4,000 inclusive of breakfast and executive lounge access. ➤ www.gallefacehotel.com

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UILT IN 1921, CAPE TOWN’S FAMOUS grain silos were the industrial heart of the city’s harbour area for the best part of a century, until the thrilling Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa was carved out of them by British architectural genius Thomas Heatherwick five years ago, changing the city’s cultural landscape changed forever. Unveiled in 2017 and housed within the upper grain elevator portion of the historic complex, sits an extraordinary hotel occupying six floors above the museum: The Silo. INTRODUCING A NEW LEVEL OF LUXURY TO CAPE Town’s hotel scene by introducing an immersive stay experience the like of which neither visitors to South Africa nor Capetonians had ever seen before, The Silo’s 28 guest rooms and suites changed the Mother City’s hospitality landscape.

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Almost as showstopping as The Silo’s architectural presence are its striking interiors, which were conceptualised and executed by Royal Portfolio’s founder Liz Biden, who created spaces as exotic and plush as they are warm and comfortable throughout the hotel. THE HOTEL’S TRIPLE ASPECT ROYAL SUITE FILLS almost a third of the ninth floor of the hotel. Two bedrooms – each on a corner of the building and boasting enormous rock star bathrooms and three pillowed windows – are separated by a splendid, double-height living, dining and entertaining space, fringed along the entirety of one wall by a generous balcony facing the Atlantic Ocean and Robben Island beyond. One of the bedrooms’ multiple windows look towards Table Mountain and Lion’s Head Mountain, while the harbour and city dominate the views from the other.

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Biden’s flamboyant design aesthetic is evident throughout the suite. Vibrant silks and deep velvets vie for attention with animal skins, lacquer work, floral prints and gloss finishes. Massive crystal chandeliers, handmade in Egypt, hang overhead in every room. Carefully placed artefacts and bijou accessories add dashes of interest and colour at every turn. Amongst more than a dozen works hanging in Royal Suite 905, an expansive, gold-leafed piece from South African artist Pierre Carl Vermeulen’s Sweat Print series dominates the dining area. On the opposite wall by a comfy sofa, hangs an intensely colourful, African-influenced mixed media piece by Carla Kranendonk. Both perfectly suit the considerable entertaining space in which they’re hung but don’t detract from the building’s character, which is still evident despite the multitude of textures and colours. While the overall effect upon entering The Royal Suite is obviously impressive, the entire space is completely livable thanks to basic good design. From the built-in black-out blinds that glide into position at the touch of a button, to the fully stocked drinks cabinet replenished daily with complimentary juices, wines, bubbly and snacks, everything functions beautifully and Biden’s incredible attention to detail is palpable throughout. The nightly rate for the Royal Suite starts at ZAR 51,000 inclusive of breakfast. ➤ www.theroyalportfolio.com

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PAPHOS

CY P R US A P H R O D I T E ➤

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ENOWNED FOR ITS SANDY BLUEflag beaches and calm, clear waters, like its history, Cyprus is multilayered with a compelling culture, lifestyle and landscape, overseen by warm, hospitable people. Coastal Páfos is famed for its archaeological sites relating to Aphrodite – the Greek mythological goddess of love, desire and beauty – including ruins of palaces, tombs and ancient relics CLOSE TO THE FISHING VILLAGE OF LATCHÍ, Anassa is a Cypriot hospitality jewel and has reigned supreme, islandwide, since it opened in 1998. A sprawling, majestic grande dame of a resort which exudes the charm of a traditional Cypriot village, Anassa spills down a secluded hillside towards the clear blue waters of Latchí Bay, looking across one of the island’s finest beaches towards Akamas and the famous Baths of Aphrodite. Cyprus’ undulating Akamas peninsula is situated at the point where three continents geologically meet and is punctuated by an array of beautiful limestone valleys within a few minutes’ of the Anassa. Feeling more like a wellness retreat than a hotel, the resort’s entrance and main building is a calming cream dream with mosaic floors, acres of marble, cupolas, water

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features and airy, well-lit corridors. Access to the top floor is restricted to those occupying Anassa’s three best suites, one of which is the one-bedroom Aphrodite. AT 122 SQUARE METRES, THE APHRODITE SUITE isn’t huge, but what is lacks in space it more than makes up for with incredible views, for it faces the Akamas Peninsula and benefits from the most spectacular sunsets and a private heated jacuzzi boasting stunning views. Inside, marble floors, bespoke furniture, huge sofas and tasteful soft furnishings unify Cypriot tradition and Greek modernity, with custom-designed Joelle Pléot pieces handmade by local artisans continuing Anassa’s elegant yet entirely livable design aesthetic. Mercifully all televisions are hidden, replaced instead by splashes of colour, the odd Greek urn or classical bust and thoughtful touches dotted around the suite, all of which add to the laidback vibe of the oceanfront apartment-like Aphrodite Suite. A well-stocked complimentary bar, deep soaking tub complete with unobstructed views of the Mediterranean and a high-end easy-to-use sound system add to the outstanding stay experience. The nightly rate for the Aphrodite Suite is EUR 3,000 inclusive of breakfast. ➤ www.anassa.com.cy

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at the 2015 World Travel Awards and comprises a vast, double-height salon, guest cloakroom, butler’s kitchen and a bedroom come living room with master bathroom and walk-in closet. Inspired by the artist’s early works, the colour palette is predominantly wheat, champagne and sand tones. Meanwhile, the décor embodies many natural materials, including linen, woods, plant fibres, cotton, rattan, sisal and Colombian yute, all produced locally.

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF CARTAGENA’S OLD city and almost certainly the most famous hotel in Colombia, Sofitel Legend Santa Clara is a historical landmark and can count Bill Gates, Mel Gibson, Francis Ford Coppola, Mick Jagger and Plácido Domingo amongst its roll call of discerning guests.

THE HANDMADE BEDROOM FURNITURE IS classic with a contemporary twist and includes some beautiful pieces with colonial accents to blend with the overall design ethic of the hotel. The master bathroom is lined in white Carrara marble. The salon is presided over by a huge, original Botero painting of a naked lady, hanging high up the wall. From a certain angle, she appears to oversee everything transpiring in her midst. The massive three-metre sofa below her is balanced by a pair of extra-wide, fabric-covered chaise opposite. A giant bookcase spanning an entire wall is filled with novels, prints, trinkets, bijou sculptures, photographs by Lina Botero, ethnic pots and bowls and Colombian folk-art pieces. Ralph Lauren lamps are liberally dotted around. The curtains were made on handlooms. The gorgeous wooden floors have a rich yet rustic and homely finish. Doors open onto a large balcony overlooking the hotel pool with fabulous views towards the ocean. The result is a room, which, whilst very generously proportioned, is pleasingly eclectic, fresh and inviting, and at the same time conveys a genuine feeling of being in Colombia.

A COLLABORATION BETWEEN BOTERO, HIS daughter Lina (who designed the interior) and construction firm Arias, Serna and Saravia, the hotel’s presidential Botero Suite won South America’s Leading Hotel Suite

COL OMBIA

REVERED IN HIS NATIVE COUNTRY OF COLOMBIA and internationally, Fernando Botero is widely accepted to be one of the most successful contemporary artists alive and is considered by many to be the most influential Latin American artist in the world. His unique signature style, known as Boterismo, evokes images of voluptuous people, voluminous objects and animals in exaggerated proportions. In 2018, his painting Adam and Eve sold for almost USD 3 million.

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The nightly rate for the Botero Suite starts at USD 3,000 inclusive of breakfast and round-trip airport transfers. ➤ www.sofitel-legend.com

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G OA

INDIA P R E S I D E N T I A L ➤

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OCATED IN THE WEST OF THE country bordering the Arabian Sea, Goa is renowned for once being India’s guaranteed, good-time hedonistic haven. But in the past decade, Goa has gone to great lengths to appeal to a higher class of holidaymaker and has done much to set-aside the rave scene image that first made the Indian state world-famous. Indeed, the Goa of today favors culture and gastronomy over bongo drums and beach shacks, and well-heeled visitors spend their days taking in the region’s kaleidoscopic mix of Indian and Portuguese cultural sites rather than partying incessantly.

OF ALL THE RECOGNISABLE INTERNATIONAL hospitality brands represented in Goa, Grand Hyatt’s resort stands out as one of the best. Set on beautifully manicured grounds of 28 acres directly on the beach, in a prominent position overlooking the gulf of Bambolim and hence benefitting from panoramic vistas across the bay, Hyatt’s sprawling Goan resort is something of a departure from what one might expect of the global American hotel chain. This is because, inspired by the grandeur of 17th century IndoPortuguese palaces, Grand Hyatt Goa has been well designed to be open, accessible and relaxed. THE HOTEL’S ENCLAVE OF SEVEN, DETACHED LOWrise guest houses with whitewashed stone walls topped with terracotta roofs, dotted around a large, palace-style main building, together lend a sense of structure, calmness and tranquility to the entire place. Teak shutters, recessed balconies, winding pathways, trickling fountains, lush

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botanicals and ancient towering banyans add to the charm and exotic character of the hotel. AN EXPANSIVE 300 SQUARE METRES OF OPULENT yet warm and welcoming accommodation laid out apartmentlike across the front of the hotel’s premium Grand Club building, every room of Grand Hyatt Goa’s presidential suite faces the water. Covered terraces run the length of the suite looking towards the Arabian Sea, off both of the bedrooms at either end as well as the flowing 25-metre open-plan living, dining and entertaining space in between. A full kitchen off the dining area, with a separate entrance from outside, is sufficiently well-appointed for chefs to prepare gourmet meals. At the centre of the lounge, a cocktail bar is fully-stocked with bottles of complimentary premium spirits complete with olives, mixers and every conceivable glass and accoutrement a mixologist could possibly wish for. The spacious and well-appointed master bedroom suite is equipped with a family-sized jacuzzi, an oversized walkin shower with multiple heads and a large dressing room complete with its own entrance, affording butlers discreet access to place laundered clothes directly into wardrobes. A SPRAWLING, serene space in which to unwind and enjoy, were it not for the hotel’s tempting range of onsite restaurants, it would be entirely possible to stay put in Grand Hyatt Goa’s presidential suite for days without venturing out. The nightly rate for the Presidential Suite starts at USD 4,800 inclusive of breakfast, car and chauffeur and a host of other benefits. ➤ www.hyatt.com

AL J ABAL A L A K HDA R

OMAN V I L L A ➤

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IGHER ABOVE SEA LEVEL THAN THE famed Swiss alpine resort of St. Moritz, some 90 miles from the Omani capital of Muscat, exists an unspoilt mountainous haven of utter peace and tranquility, which relatively few seasoned global travellers have yet to discover. Located in the interior of the nation, Al Jabal Al Akhdar had long been a draw for nature lovers and tourists when Qaboos bin Said Al Said, sultan of Oman for 50 years until his death in 2020, issued a decree in 2011 establishing it as a designated nature reserve. This was done in a bid

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to conserve the region’s unique yet fragile biodiversity and exceptional natural beauty. The measure effectively conferred protected status on the mountainous swathe, which is popular for its dramatic massifs, plunging ravines and temperate summertime climate. ALILA JABAL AKHDAR WAS GROUNDBREAKING when it opened eight years ago. It was the Alila brand’s first project outside its tropical Southeast Asian base, and it made the Green Mountain area accessible to luxury travellers for the very first time. Perched on the edge

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At the end of a private driveway behind a dramatic pair of huge dark-timber doors, 350 square metre Villa Rummanah is decorated in soft nutmeg and rich chocolate tones and dotted with sprigs of colour. Hand-carved furniture and individual statement pieces fill the rooms while original artworks adorn the walls. Vintage trunks, handmade woolen rugs, woven curtains, antique lanterns, artisanal works and original artifacts make the entire space feel warm and homely.

of a ravine overlooking a dramatic gorge, the boutique resort of 78 suites and two villas opened-up a once-hidden corner of Oman, some 2,000 metres above sea level in the centre of the highest range in the Eastern Arabian Peninsula. CONSTRUCTED USING LOCAL MATERIALS AND traditional techniques inspired by ancient Omani forts, the LEED-designed green building certified eco-friendly resort blends gently into the surrounding landscape without upsetting the rocky setting. This restrained design aesthetic is at the very heart and feel of the hotel, rendering the entire site virtually invisible at night when the lights are out, allowing the stars up above to truly shine. ALILA JABAL AKHDAR’S CROWNING GLORY ARE TWO enormous, private villas, set away from the main complex. Named Rummanah and Jowz after the pomegranates and walnuts the region is famed for, these exclusive two-bedroom residences offer plush and incredibly spacious surroundings.

AT ONE END OF THE BUILDING, THE MASTER SUITE boasts a sumptuous bathroom complete with a steam room and a mammoth oval tub carved from one piece of pale marble. And just outside, a heated jacuzzi, set into the ground, is large enough for two or more. The other bedroom is at the other end of the building, providing guests with plenty of privacy from each other. In between the bedrooms, a collection of large, interconnected rooms all deferring to walls of floor-to-ceiling windows, include a large lounge, separate dining room and a salon come office. Out back and running the length of these three rooms, a showstopping, heated infinity pool faces the gorge, with an open, untamed space of indigenous rocks and botanicals beyond. For days spent lazing around the pool, a giant daybed laden with cushions and pillows is surrounded by curtains which dance in the mountain breezes, and teak sun loungers, laid with thick mattresses, face the incredible scenery. A true mountain retreat, staying in Villa Rummanah at Alila Jabal Akhdar undoubtedly provides a genuine escape from 21st century urban life and all of the complexities of today. The nightly rate for Villa Rummanah starts at OMR 1,100 inclusive of breakfast and round-trip airport transfers. ➤ www.alilahotels.com

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I S L A H O L B OX MEXICO

mexico’s idyllic car-free island secret ALEX BENASULI DIS COVERS THAT LITTLE HAS CHANGED ON THE YUCATÁN

O A S I S O F I S L A H O L B O X S I N C E I T W A S A H A V E N F O R E A R LY M AY A N S E T T L E R S

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IX MILES AND JUST TWENTY MINUTES off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, the tourist trap resorts give way to an idyllic paradise that even Robinson Crusoe would be hard-pressed to find on a map. Welcome to Isla Holbox – a hide-out for 18th century pirates who sought refuge on its shores, this stunning island was a haven for early Mayan settlers and little has upset its glorious white-sand beaches since then. YOU WILL NEED TO FLY TO CANCUN, TRANSFER BY car for ninety minutes and then take a half-hour boat ride to get to it, but once you have made the effort to reach Isla Holbox, the very concept of effort will almost instantly seem a distant memory. Not least, there is something magical about arriving at an island destination by boat, that makes a vacation experience that much more exciting, for as the mainland disappears and the real world with it, a sense of adventure pervades and relaxation begins. IN THE YUCATEC MAYA LANGUAGE, HOLBOX literally translates to “black hole”. There are competing narratives over the origins of the name. One states that during Mayan times, the island was famous as a fountain of youth, inspired by its dark, freshwater springs and shallow lagoons. Later, pirates used the island as a staging ground in order to plunder treasure-laden Spanish galleons. Until tourism arrived in the area, Holbox (pronounced hole-BOSH in English) was a quiet and sleepy place for fishermen and

Casa las Tortugas

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their families. In many ways it remains that way today and is undoubtedly one of Mexico’s least visited natural wonders. White sandy beaches, calm translucent waters, gentle breezes and an off-the-beaten-track state of mind await visitors to Isla Holbox, which is part of the Yum Balam biosphere, having been decreed a flora and fauna nature reserve in 1994. Mexico’s largest ecological reserve, it is replete with hawksbill turtles, pink flamingos, white pelicans and numerous other bird and fish species. MEASURING JUST 41 KILOMETRES LONG AND 1.5 kilometres wide with a few thousand year-round inhabitants, the island is comprised mostly of a diminutive port, small town, mangrove swamp forests and, of course, beaches. In fact, almost 75 percent of the island is wild mangroves and beaches.

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There are no paved roads and hardly any vehicles. Isla Holbox is completely car free. Other stretches of the Yucatán Peninsula are crisscrossed with roads and clogged with traffic. But most Holboxeños get around the island by bicycle and pedestrians and cyclists only share the dirt paths with a fleet of golf cart-style taxis. Consequently, Holbox’s stunning white-sand beaches see only a fraction of the millions of visitors that crowd Cancún and Cozumel. There are also no banks on the island and no postal service, so you needn’t worry about sending postcards! Holbox mostly attracts an intrepid crowd of North Americans and Europeans searching for a genuinely low key and stress-free beach experience, with just enough creature comforts to relax and sufficient quirkiness to feel real. It’s the kind of place where professionals and seasoned globetrotters mingle effortlessly with creative types, backpackers and gap

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I S L A H O L B OX year students. It’s genuinely as comfortable for couples and families as it is for travellers and solo adventurers. THE FOCAL POINTS OF ISLA HOLBOX ARE ITS LONG beaches, and as far as beaches go, they are about as perfect as they could be. The sand is fine and white, but just coarse enough to feel comfy underfoot. The approach to the sea is flat and relatively hard, which makes it ideal for jogging, walking or simply lounging around. The sea is clear and calm, with that kind of blue that impossibly seems more brilliant with every change in the combination of clouds and sun overhead. And despite the tides, the water level generally remains shallow, allowing for safe and easy access for all ages. Every hundred metres or so, a different bijou hotel tastefully lays out its lounge chairs and hammocks under the gently swaying palm trees. Small beachside restaurants and bars serve fresh, simple fare with a dash of island sophistication. Sunsets are truly magical, seeming to last forever and cast the shade of gold, honey and amber-coloured light that makes everyone and everything look simply gorgeous. On Holbox, the end of your days and early part of your evenings should be planned according to where you fancy watching the sunset. ONE OF THE BEST PLACES ON THE ISLAND TO TAKE all this in is Casa las Tortugas. Founded by an Italian

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family that became seduced by Holbox on their first visit almost two decades ago, the 23-room hotel, restaurant and spa is a real labour of love. An intimate central courtyard, based around a kidney shaped pool, is surrounded by lush vegetation, palm trees, bougainvillea and local jungle plantings. Rooms are charming, romantic, comfortable, decorated with local arts and crafts and stocked with organic bath products. For those wishing to splurge, from an ocean front room you can literally step right onto the beach. Immediately beyond the pool are an eatery and beach, known collectively as Mandarina Restaurant & Beach Club. The food here, like many places on the island, is fresh and tasty. Scrumptious breakfasts feature a variety of egg dishes, fruits, organic yogurts and pancakes, or go native and try traditional Mexican Chilaquiles – crisp tortilla triangles, covered with green or red salsa, garnished with shredded white cheese and served with eggs and refried beans. Ceviche and octopus carpaccio are local specialties which are perfect for lunch. Freshly caught fish – usually grouper, sea bass and tuna – are menu staples. Hardly surprising given its Italian owners, some excellent homemade pasta dishes feature on the menu. As sunset approaches, the emphasis moves to margaritas and mojitos. Once a week, a DJ plays chilled music on the roof terrace, adding a groovy and funky edge to the proceedings. ➤ www.holboxcasalastortugas.com THE MOST STRESSFUL PART OF YOUR ISLA HOLBOX experience may well be deciding whether to opt for a sun lounger or hammock for your beach time. If you sometimes struggle to switch off, you will find the atmosphere of nowhere to go and little to do ideal for diving into that book you have been meaning to read for ages. Life on Holbox can be as simple as breakfast, beach, lunch, beach, pool, sunset and dinner. Around the island, there are various yoga classes

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daily and hotel spas offers a selection of traditional and Mayaninfluenced treatments. If more energetic activity is needed, a kiteboarding school on the beach in front of Casa las Tortugas offers lessons and equipment rental, whilst the calm and relatively shallow inland waters are ideal for paddle-boarding. ➤ www.holboxkiteboarding.com Those of a more adventurous persuasion can kayak around the undeveloped side of the island, with its mangrove forests, inlets and channels where crocodiles, flamingoes and ospreys

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Ser Casasandra Holbox Town

roam. On neighbouring and unpopulated Isla Pajaros (Bird Island) and Isla Passion (Passion Island) even more colourful and natural flora and fauna abound. EVERY YEAR, GIANT WHALE SHARKS ARRIVE IN THE warm, plankton-rich waters off Holbox at the start of the summer for breeding, so the island has developed a reputation for being a global hot spot for viewing these giant, graceful creatures. The largest living fish on the planet, whale sharks can be

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up to 14 metres long and sometimes weigh as much as 15 tons. Being plankton feeders and therefore not at all threatening like their predatory cousins, whale sharks are perfectly safe to observe and people often travel from around the world to Holbox to see them. The best time to see whale sharks in their Holbox breeding grounds is from May through October. Note that the entire community on Holbox is dedicated to the safety and preservation of the island’s whale sharks and tour numbers are restricted to protect them. THE SMALL TOWN OF HOLBOX, ON THE OPPOSITE side of the island from Casa las Tortugas, comprises a typical Mexican main square with a grid of dirt road streets branching out from it. A handful of boutiques and restaurants are worth a look in. Brightly coloured murals adorn many of the buildings in the town, which is as much for locals as it is for tourists. Children play, seniors watch the word go by and dogs and the occasional chicken weave their way in and out. It is lively yet peaceful and friendly. Unlike most other tourist spots in Mexico, Holbox town retains a charming, authentic feel and the atmosphere is chilled. WHEN IT COMES TO EATING, A VERITABLE FEAST ranging from the freshest seafood and veggie tacos to meaty burritos and wood-fired pizzas await you on Isla Holbox. But if there’s one dish Holbox is famous for, it’s the island specialty of lobster pizza. While many restaurants serve it, you’ll find the best lobster pizzas at Roots. Located in the heart of Holbox town, Roots occupies a traditional Mayan nah thatched cottage complete with a delightful garden. ➤ https://roots-pizza-holbox.negocio.site Also in the town, located just around the corner from the main square, Rosa Mexicano serves good, traditional Mexican

food with a contemporary twist, including tasty Sinaloan shrimp-based ceviche verde and enchiladas stuffed with fresh fish, octopus or chicken. Rosa’s also opens early to serve big Mexican breakfasts. FOR A MORE UPSCALE HOLBOX EXPERIENCE, ONE OF the best hotels on the island is almost certainly Ser Casasandra. Owned and designed by Cuban-born writer and artist Sandra Pérez, this serene boutique hotel offers slightly more luxurious lodgings, complete with a small but perfectly formed spa and a

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large heated pool surrounded by wonderful gardens. The hotel’s restaurant, Ser Esencia, is one of the best on Holbox. Helmed by celebrated chef Roberto Solis, it specialises in contemporary Yucatán cuisine prepared by Andrés Fernández and is the island’s equivalent of fine dining. ➤ www.casasandra.com Lastly, one of the best vantage points on Holbox to enjoy sundowners is Hotel Las Nubes, which is located in front of the Bacalar Lagoon. The hotel also boasts a rather good restaurant, which is perfect for a post sunset dinner. ➤ www.hotellasnubes.com

IF YOU ARE LOOKING TO LEAVE THE WORLD behind and getaway to a low-key, off-the-beaten-track barefoot paradise, Isla Holbox is for you. And for the moment at least, Holbox still strikes a delicate balance of supporting a growing cottage tourist industry in harmony with its pristine environment. The beaches and the sea surrounding the island are nothing short of stunning. The Yucatán’s best-kept secret, everyone could benefit from a little Holbox in their lives.

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ST O C K H O L M SWEDEN

sweden’s idyllic N E S T L E D B E T W E E N L A K E M Ä L A R E N A N D T H E B A LT I C S E A , S P R E A D A C R O S S FOURTEEN ISLANDS CONNECTED BY BRIDGES AND CANALS AND SURROUNDED BY F O R E S T S A N D C O U N T RY S I D E , A L E X B E N AS U L I I S E N A M O U R E D BY STOCKHOLM’S NATURAL BEAUTY

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capital city

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EW GLOBAL CAPITALS ARE SITUATED as idyllically as Sweden’s. The largest metropolis in the Nordic region and one of the fastest growing commercial hubs in Europe, while Stockholm oozes down-toearth confidence and dynamism, it is set within a beautiful natural archipelago consisting of thousands of islands, skerries and rocks, making it one of the most enchanting capitals to visit for a city break. Beginning just a few minutes from the centre, it is this stunning natural setting which also makes Stockholm one of the greenest and cleanest cities in Europe, which obviously helps in the present climate. STOCKHOLM HAS A LONG AND PROUD HISTORY. Gamla Stan – the city’s old town, which dates back to the 13th century – is one of the best-preserved medieval districts in Europe. Elsewhere, buildings and boulevards from the late 19th and early 20th centuries abound, giving the city elegance in spades. And a combination of architectural marvels set in such a natural environment makes Stockholm

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a visually unique metropolis and a complete delight to explore. Yet whilst the visual experience alone should be enough to position the Swedish capital at the top of everyone’s city break list, it is its contemporary design and fashion industries, as well as cosmopolitan café and restaurant cultures, that allows Stockholm to stand globally alongside much larger international peers. DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS, STOCKHOLM literally shines. Though not quite the land of the midnight sun (you would have to go further north for that!), in the weeks leading up to and after the June summer solstice, daylight continues for what seems like forever, and from late spring through ‘til autumn, Stockholm is an al fresco urban paradise. Locals spend as much time as possible cycling, boating, walking around and frequenting the scores of outdoor cafés and eateries, before dropping temperatures drive the action indoors. The waterfront between Kungliga Operan (the Royal Opera House), Kungsträdgården (Swedish for “King’s Garden”)

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and the Grand Hôtel, facing Parliament House and the Royal Palace, is an ideal place to begin one’s appreciation of this beautiful city, with the many bridges and boardwalks that connect the mainland to Gamla Stan and adjacent Skeppsholmen Island offering some picture postcard-perfect vantage points. Stockholm’s skyline is handsome and grand, dominated by amber, rust and gold-coloured stone buildings erected in centuries past when the city was the epicenter of a Scandinavian and Baltic empire. The low-rise architecture, church spires and gently hilly topography together create a visually theme that extends as far the eye can see. WATER IS EVERYWHERE AND SUPPLIES A CONSTANT exercise in motion, with floating traffic consisting of everything from rowing boats to sailing yachts and commercial vessels adding to the ever-changing tableaux. And light reflecting off the water, in a multitude of seasonal daytime variations, provides visitors with a splendid scene of changing vistas.

Stortorget Square

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Östermalm

During the summer months, the terrace of the Grand Hôtel offers the perfect outdoor setting to soak up some sun and watch the waterborne world go by. ➤ www.grandhotel.se/en For a slightly younger and groovier vibe, the patio at the front of Lydmar Hotel next door offers the same sweeping views with a more relaxed atmosphere. This is where many professional yet hip city folk let their hair down after work on summer nights. ➤ www.lydmar.com RUMOUR HAS IT THAT IN 1252, WHEN LOOKING FOR a new capital, the Swedes hollowed out a log, filled it with gold and let it float away. It travelled as far as the island on which the city’s old town is situated, Gamla Stan, and Stockholm was born. Stortorget, the city’s historical gingerbread house-perfect main square, is a truly splendid example of Northern European medieval architecture. Whilst impressive all year round, the area is even more magical during the winter months, particularly in the snow. And during the weeks leading up to Christmas, Stortorget hosts one of Stockholm’s most picturesque Christmas markets. Though the main thoroughfares of Gamla Stan are often teeming with tourists, its charming tangle of narrow, winding and mostly pedestrianised cobbled streets are filled with

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Royal Palace

cafés, bars, restaurants and galleries that appeal to both visitors and locals alike. History buffs will of course immerse themselves with tours of the Royal Palace (one of Europe’s largest), 13th century Storkyrkan Cathedral and Parliament House. In Gamla Stan you will also find the Nobel Museum, which chronicles the life of one of Sweden’s most famous subjects, Alfred Nobel and his legacy, the Nobel Prize. ➤ www.nobelmuseum.se

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WHEN FORTIFICATION IS NEEDED, HEAD TO GASTON, a chic and popular Scandinavian wine bar, which stocks over 400 vintages hailing from small producers in France, Germany, Austria, Italy and California. ➤ www.gastonvin.se. In the same area, Under Kastanjen is a traditional bakery and bistro open throughout the day. ➤ www.underkastanjen.se. To round off a day of sightseeing with some memorable sundowners, make your way to Södermalm, an island in the south central part of Stockholm, named in 2014 as the coolest neighbourhood in Europe by Vogue. Once a working-class community and brimming with attractive buildings and pretty small squares, the somewhat bohemian Södermalm of today has largely been gentrified and is now filled with vintage boutiques, design shops, independent

cafés and bars. For the best of them get off the metro at Medborgarplatsen and head to the area known as SoFo, which refers to the cluster of streets south of Folkungagtan. LIKE ANY ECLECTIC AND UP-AND-COMING CITY district, half the fun is wandering around and discovering it for yourself. SoFo is very much the capital of hipster Stockholm. Within walking distance of SoFo, on the north eastern bank of Södermalm, is Fotografiska, Stockholm’s world class museum of photography, housed in a warehouselike space with a stylish, industrial-esque café, restaurant and lounge on its top floor that commands some of the best views in town. ➤ www.fotografiska.eu . Spectacular vistas can also be enjoyed from Monteliusvägen,

Södermalm Island

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a quarter-mile pedestrian walkway lined on one side with charming houses and on the other with magnificent views of Gamla Stan, Riddarholmen, City Hall and most of central Stockholm. IN STOCKHOLM, VISITORS ARE SPOILED FOR CHOICE with countless views of historic buildings surrounded by water, yet each one has it own unique vantage point. A few streets behind the Grand Hôtel, the public space between the districts of Norrmalm and Östermalm, Nybroplan, at the foot of Nybroviken bay, gives way to Strandvägen, Sweden’s most prestigious address. Here, the palatial quayside mansions lining the boulevard date back to the late 19th century and represent a statement of confidence and wealth from the trading empire that Sweden and its capital became. Seen from across the water, through the tall masts of retired sailing ships, the prominent buildings of Strandvägen cast an

Vasa Museum

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Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde

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impressive silhouette. Take the tram from Nybroplan or walk the length of Strandvägen’s esplanade to reach Djurgården island, Stockholm’s equivalent to New York’s Central Park Djurgården is a nature and culture lover’s paradise, mostly made up of walking and bike paths crisscrossing beautifully maintained gardens, lawns and forested areas. This being Stockholm, of course there are wonderful water views at almost every turn. Over the centuries, many aristocratic and prominent families built beautiful summer homes on Djurgården, some of which are now open to the public. Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde, the former home of its namesake, was completed in 1905 and is now one of Sweden’s most popular art museums and its gardens are nothing short of bucolic splendour. ➤ www.waldemarsudde.se Vasa Museum, Scandinavia’s most visited attraction, is also located on Djurgården. It houses the only intact 17th century ship in the world, which sank in the waters outside Stockholm within minutes of its 1628 maiden voyage. The ship

was painstakingly raised from the sea bed and restored in the second half of the 20th century. ➤ www.vasamuseet.se Another of Djurgården’s famous attractions draws upon a very different kind of tradition. ABBA: The Museum is a fun, light-hearted and interactive tribute to one of Sweden’s biggest and certainly most loved musical exports, and a fun way to spend a few hours. ➤ www.abbathemuseum.com STOCKHOLM IS OF COURSE MUCH MORE THAN A collection of impressive buildings, parks and museums. It is a city of vibrant and diverse neighbourhoods, compact enough to explore on foot or, at most, a few metro or tram stops away from each other. Smart and wealthy Östermalm district is situated in the central eastern part of Stockholm, has some of the highest house prices in the country and is where the well-heeled and well dressed live, work and play. Here you’ll find the city’s most fancy boutiques, smartest restaurants and upscale,

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turn-of-last-century apartment blocks and embassies. The area around Stureplan square, off Birger Jarlsgatan, is a veritable nightlife hub, with offerings that range from elegant and refined to downright boisterous. Sturehof, an Östermalm institution since 1897, is home to a popular bar, café and seafood restaurant which is often wildly busy and atmospheric indoors and out. ➤ www.sturehof.com . Taverna Brillo is a tribute to all things Italian and features a large dining room surrounded by a market place which includes a florist, bakery, pizzeria, gelateria and several bars. ➤ www.tavernabrillo. se. Meanwhile, its culinary cousin, Riche, is aimed at Stockholm’s more sophisticated set. ➤ www.riche.se. All are excellent options to dine, drink and people watch. Design stores are concentrated on quieter Sibyllegatan and Nybrogatan, whilst the streets around Biblioteksgatan and Normalmstorg are the go-to places for high-end fashion. For lunch or coffee in between shopping, head to Östermalms Saluhall, Stockholm’s top-of-the-line, spacious yet intimate

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food hall, dating back to the late 1800s. Inside, you will find traditional Swedish delicacies, like dill-cured salmon, pickled herring, pan fried perch and meatballs with lingonberries. ➤ www.ostermalmshallen.se AT SOME POINT DURING YOUR VISIT TO STOCKHOLM, the call of the water might become so great that a maritime adventure will be necessary to complete your immersion of the city. Although there are numerous options to explore the inner canals, islands and bridges that adorn the city, a half-day tour to Stockholm’s famed archipelago is highly recommended. Cruising out past the city’s familiar landmarks, the landscape gives way to literally thousands of forested islands, some large enough to accommodate small towns and connected to the mainland and each other with bridges and causeways. Others are so small that they contain a single traditional wooden house with ornate shutters and a gabled roof. One in six Stockholmers own a boat and it’s easy to understand why. Arriving back to the city after some hours exploring the

archipelago, Stockholm all of a sudden makes more sense – a settlement founded on trade and its naval capability, that grew into the country’s capital and Scandinavia’s main metropolis with the integration of nature and water as fundamental elements of the city’s psyche. SPENDING TIME IN STOCKHOLM IS A REAL TREAT for even the most seasoned traveller. Nature lovers adore the parks, waterfront promenades and the archipelago. Culture fans are drawn to the museums and the city’s numerous historical sites. Design buffs become immersed in Scandinavia’s signature minimalist and practical yet warm style. Foodies relish mixing up Swedish culinary classics with Nordic farm-to-table experimental offerings. Chic yet humble, elegant yet down-to-earth, reserved yet welcoming, traditional yet forward-thinking, Stockholm is the warmest of metropolitan destinations, within easy reach of pretty much anywhere in Europe yet offering the most special of city break experiences.

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DETROIT U N I T E D S TA T E S

the reinvention of america’s motor city B A N K R U P T L E S S T H A N A D E C A D E A G O, SA M A N T H A H E N D E R S O N D I S C O V E R S T H A T T H E FA M E D M I D W E S T C I T Y O F D E T R O I T I S V E R Y MUCH BACK IN THE GAME

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HEN DETROIT DISASTROUSLY filed for bankruptcy in July 2013 it was worldwide news. For a city that had been one of the most pioneering and thriving in the United States for the best part of the 20th century, this fall from metropolitan grace was both dramatic and farreaching. But rather than ushering in citywide misery, doom and gloom, Detroit’s bankruptcy had a galvanising effect and catapulted the city’s private, non-profit and public leaders into a period of recalibration and renewal, with many forging new working relationships to channel new monies into small business development and new municipal projects. Less than a decade later, the result is a reborn city brimming with creativity and alive with renewal, making it a fascinating American destination to explore. THE ONCE-BOOMING CENTRE OF AUTOMOBILE magnets after Henry Ford established the Ford Motor Company in the city in 1903, Detroit is situated in the Midwestern United States in the Great Lakes region. Erected during the early 20th century, at a time when Detroit was the model conglomeration of all things ‘auto’, the luxurious Motor City mansions and beautiful Deco skyscrapers still survive today, dotted throughout what is still the largest city in the state of Michigan. By 1920, Detroit was the fourth largest city in the United States – after only New York City, Chicago and Philadelphia – with the greatest number of manufacturing jobs. But the oil crisis and diversification of the global car market in the early 1970s gave foreign auto manufacturers the upper hand, edging the American big three – Ford, Chrysler and General Motors – out of the top positions. Five years earlier, riots and social unrest in Detroit caused the start of a dramatic flight of investment and confidence out of the city which continued for many years. Some would say that Detroit’s decline began in the 1950s, when the city lost almost a tenth of its population. This continued into the 1960s, when the exodus and gradual downfall of the city continued as a building boom pushed people into the suburbs. Post the turn of the millennium, the city suffered a decadelong rollercoaster of urban decay and renewal coupled with a wildly fluctuating credit rating, until 2011 when the city had its lowest population for a century. In July 2013, Detroit infamously filed for bankruptcy. It was the largest municipal insolvency in American history. SPEND TIME IN DETROIT TODAY AND YOU’LL STILL see some eerie, vacant lots of the past and ghostly structures of deserted buildings. But in recent years, these have become outnumbered by the regeneration of vast swathes of the city and rebirth of historic buildings, not least Detroit’s landmark Michigan Central Station which is now owned

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Murals In The Market

Eastern Market

and is being refurbished by Ford Motor Company. Once an icon of Detroit’s decay and located in Corktown, the city’s oldest neighbourhood, Michigan Central Station will be repurposed as the centerpiece of a new 30-acre walkable innovation hub, to be known as Michigan Central, which will focus on developing, testing and launching new urban transportation solutions. Targeting mobility innovators and disruptors from around the world, the aim is to develop an attractive environment akin to the high-tech campuses of Silicon Valley. It is these types of projects, working with and in the community, which have enabled Detroit to emerge from bankruptcy so quickly and strongly.

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A DECADE AGO, IT WAS OBVIOUS TO EVERYONE that the huge amount of graffiti throughout the city was too much and made Detroit look neglected and unsafe, which in some parts it was. This prompted Dan Armand, who was responsible for Eastern Market’s facelift, to launch Murals in the Market in 2015. An annual street art festival held every September just a mile north of downtown, Murals in the Market attracts both international and homegrown artists to decorate the neighbourhood’s walls, completely transforming the area, much like Wynwood in Miami was reborn by street art. 125 year-old Eastern Market is also a buzzy place to hang out, browse and shop, with local food and independent fashion retailers aplenty. ➤ www.easternmarket.com What was once a neglected and downbeat neighbourhood is today enriched by more than 100 large-scale murals which attract regular foot-traffic to the area, even on quiet, nonmarket days. This prompted a variety of hip, new bars to open around Eastern Market, which have in turn created a funky, boho vibe throughout the area. If you fancy diving a little deeper into the stories and social messages behind the street art, book a personalised bicycle tour with RiDetroit. ➤ https://ridetroit.com PRETTY EASY TO EXPLORE, MANY OF DETROIT’S attractions are located in the Downtown and Midtown areas, or along the recently developed International Riverfront, so named because Detroit River, which connects Lake Eyrie with Lake St. Clair, is essentially the US border with Canada.

dine with us. stay with us

nobuhotelmiamibeach.com

Guardian Building

As you venture around, you’ll see magnificent, historic buildings in the throes of restoration alongside newly built sports venues, modern hotels, shops and restaurants, some of which have literally sprung up behind old facades. Much of the centre is linked by the Detroit People Mover – almost five kilometres of driverless monorail that circles the Downtown district. Whilst it may not be the most effective form of transportation ever built, a ride on the Detroit People Mover is something of an art tour, since all 13 of its stations have been beautified by a variety of art. The monorail will whisk you to Comerica Park for a Detroit Tigers baseball game, to Fox Theatre to watch the filming of a show and to the Detroit Opera House to catch a performance by celebrated Michigan Opera Theatre company. ➤ www.michiganopera.org A SHORT TAXI RIDE FROM DOWNTOWN IS THE Detroit’s famous Motown Museum, also known as Hitsville USA. The original recording studios of the seminal record label and residence of its founder, Berry Gordy, it is impossible to ignore Detroit’s music legacy, the city having been the hometown of Aretha Franklin, Diana Ross and Madonna, amongst others. ➤ www.motownmuseum.org For motor history buffs and ardent petrol-heads, a visit to The Henry Ford Museum complex – spread across more than 80 acres, a little out of the city in the suburb of Dearborn – is not to be missed. With a multitude of exhibits ranging from Rosa Park’s bus and JFK’s fateful sedan to Abraham Lincoln’s infamous theatre chair all on show, visiting Ford’s global HQ is both a blast from the past and a fascinating foray into the future. ➤ www.thehenryford.org

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TYPICAL OF THE DETROIT OF TODAY IS THE involvement of innovative chefs in new ventures to support the city’s gastronomic rebirth. Kick start your day with breakfast at stylish Hudson Café on Woodward. Here, classically trained French chef Tom Teknos and his partner, Stavros Adamopoulos serve their take on sweet and savoury waffles plus other scrummy treats. ➤ www.hudson-cafe.com After brekkie, take a guided tour around Detroit’s impressive Art Deco centre, a popular location for many Hollywood films. The gorgeous Guardian Building features in the Batman v Superman movie. Preservation Detroit offers a variety of excellent walking tours as well as private, tailor-made

T R AV E L L E R L OW D O W N DETROIT

excursions. ➤ www.preservationdetroit.org For a more relaxed stroll, head to Detroit International Riverfront and cross the bridge at the intersection of Jefferson Avenue and East Grand Blvd. to Belle Isle Park. A 982-acre state park rich with history and natural beauty, Belle Isle is a Detroit gem that’s considered to be the city’s green crown jewel. Designed in the 1880s by renowned landscape architect, Frederick Law Olmsted, who also designed Central Park in NYC, Belle Isle features a variety of attractions including an aquarium, conservatory and the impressive James Scott Memorial Fountain. ➤ www.belleisleconservancy.org

The Henry Ford Museum

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FOR ART AFICIONADOS, AN AFTERNOON PERUSING the great halls and exhibition spaces of the Detroit Institute of Arts is a cultural must. Showcasing a wide and frequently changing variety of art, the DIA is probably most famous for housing Diego Rivera’s series of 27 frescoes created in 19321993, named the Detroit Industry Murals. ➤ www.dia.org Less than half a mile from the DIA and designed by renowned architect Andrew Zago, Detroit’s Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit is housed within a large, converted former auto dealership and is on a mission to present art at the forefront of contemporary culture. The architecture of the building was intentionally left raw and unfinished to allow the museum’s vast collection of modern works to shine. ➤ www.mocadetroit.org THANKS TO THE CITY’S REBIRTH, DETROIT HAS witnessed an influx of foodies, talented chefs and notable culinary partnerships in the past few years, meaning that there’s no shortage of decent places to eat excellent fare at reasonable prices. Johnny Noodle King is as much about chef Sam Rafo and his team as it is about their soul warming ramens and super tasty fusion noodles. ➤ www.johnnynoodleking.com You can’t visit Detroit without a Greek American chilli dog, affectionately known locally as a coney. Big on flavour and best served with added chili and a side order of cheese fries, the city’s most famous are served-up by American Coney Island. ➤ www.americanconeyisland.com Midtown, multi award-winning Chartreuse Kitchen and Cocktails is a botanically themed American restaurant and

Detroit Institute of Arts

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Belle Isle Park

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cocktail bar which is definitely worth checking-out. ➤ www.chartreusekc.com For a meal with a theme, dine at the steampunk decorated Rusted Crow, a few minutes walk from Grand Circus Park, where many of the city’s best hotels are located. A Detroit mainstay, its eats are hearty and yummy, especially the handmade burgers. ➤ http://rustedcrowdetroit.com Lastly, open until midnight all week and 2am over the weekends, intimate Sugar House bar on Michigan Avenue is the perfect place for a nightcap of a delectable, handcrafted cocktail. ➤ www.sugarhousedetroit.com ANYONE WHO DOUBTS THE CAPACITY OF AMERICAN cities to transform themselves need only look to Detroit for inspiration, for the famed MidWest city has been nothing short of reborn in recent years. ‘A phoenix rising from the ashes’ is how most modern-day Detroiters proudly describe their city. Determined to preserve some of the city’s glorious past and fuse it with modern metropolitan developments, locals heartily welcome visitors to Detroit and often quirkily ask tourists to “forgive the renovations’ and enjoy a rejuvenating experience in their spirited, regenerated city. ➤ https://visitdetroit.com

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A SOHO INSTITUTION Since 1927

48 Greek Street Soho, London W1D 4EF Tel +44 (0) 20 7439 7474

info@lescargot.co.uk

I N I S S U E 3 7 O F T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R , O U R F O O D I E S SAMPLE GOOD FOOD AND FINE WINES IN LIMASSOL, I STA N B U L A N D T H E B O R D E A U X R E G I O N O F F R A N C E

M AT S U H I S A L I M A S S O L ➤ LIMASSOL, CYPRUS

IL CORTILE ➤ I S TA N B U L , T U R K E Y

LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE C H ÂT E A U S M I T H H A U T L A F I TT E ➤ BORDEAUX, FRANCE Château Smith Haut Lafitte

R E VIEW ON A MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND RENOWNED FOR GOOD FOOD, NICHOLAS C H R I S O ST O M O U E N J O Y S A N U T T E R LY M E M O R A B L E M E A L T H A T M A N A G E S

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Wagyū Fois Gras

M AT S U H I S A LIMASSOL ➤ L I M A S S O L CYPRUS

FOOD ATMOSPHERE

TRANSFORMING FOOD INTO something of a fashion over the past thirty years, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa is almost certainly the most famous chef on the planet today. Japanese born and raised in Saitama by his mother after his father died when he was a boy, Matsuhisa apprenticed at Tokyo sushi restaurant Matsuei before emigrating to the States towards the end of the ‘70s. Cutting his culinary teeth in Peru, Argentina and Alaska, it wasn’t until he brought his inspired blend of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine to Los Angeles, opening his first restaurant in Beverly Hills, that the culinary world took notice and, a couple of years later, Robert de Niro took a special interest. When the Hollywood star finally convinced Matsuhisa to open the very first Nobu in New York City in 1994,

with restaurateur Drew Nieporent, it was to be the start of a long partnership and the birth of a premier luxury lifestyle brand that was to span the world, earning numerous Michelin stars along the way. Today the Nobu empire is unparalleled in the industry, encompassing more than 50 restaurants across the globe and a dozen or so hotels, stretching from Malibu to Manila and Beijing to Budapest. Nobu restaurants are a magnet for food lovers, businessmen and celebrities alike and have become a benchmark for high quality modern dining. A NOTCH ABOVE A NOBU restaurant – of which there are dozens around the world with some cities having more than one – Matsuhisa locations offer a more exclusive and even more refined dining experience, skillfully connecting old and new and Japanese and Peruvian cuisine in each individually designed super high-end venue. Located on the south coast of the Eastern Mediterranean island nation of Cyprus, Matsuhisa Limassol is no exception. DESIGNED BY NEW YORK’S celebrated architect David Rockwell, who designed the very first Nobu restaurant in Tribeca, Matsuhisa’s Cyprus outpost is to be found within

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TA S T E & S I P REVIEW the sprawling and grand yet serene Amara hotel in Limassol, on the seafront at Agios Tychonas, between the turquoise sea and the city’s main coast road. A hotel conceived to persuade guests to slow down and enjoy the finer things in life, the Amara particularly excels when it comes to gastronomy and Matsuhisa Limassol is the jewel in the hotel’s culinary crown. BLENDING A HIGH-STYLE Rockwell interior with the traditional principles of Japanese cuisine, upon entering the restaurant, guests are instantly transported into a world of cutting-edge design to a backdrop of funky sounds courtesy of a live DJ at the entrance. Indeed, the polished tone is set when I enter the venue, hear the music, see the classy bar and I am greeted by warm and helpful staff. It is palpable at that very moment that I am about to embark upon an exceptional dining experience unlike any other in Cyprus. THE IDEAL WAY TO START A special meal, Covid restrictions sadly mean that pulling up a stool at a bar is not currently possible, but stylish loungestyle seating in the bar area means that

Transforming food into something of a fashion over the past thirty years, Nobuyuki Matsuhisa is almost certainly the most famous chef on the planet today

Nobuyuki Matsuhisa

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we can enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail in comfort and style, while watching guests arrive and leave. The groovy music provided by the DJ is spot on, verging on toe-tapping, and my Lychee Martini is delectable, striking just the right chord between sweet, scented and strong. Two cocktails later and we are seated in the moody and well-dressed dining room. Not a table is empty. The crowd is a well-turned-out mix of well-to-do expats, politicians and their fashionable offspring, couples and wealthy locals. The atmosphere is relaxed and buzzy. A chic fusion of moody tones, subtle directional lighting, inviting banquette seating, quality timber carvers and marble tables, it is evident that no expense was spared in the creation of the

upscale yet warm interconnecting dining rooms, which extend to equally elegant and spacious terraces overlooking the sea, providing roughly the same seating capacity as the inside spaces. The restaurant’s centerpiece is a bustling open kitchen where sushi is deftly created, of which we have a pleasing view from our seats. OUR WAITER INTRODUCES himself and away we go, kicking off the proceedings with a bottle of Biblia Chora Ovilos white – a superb, award-winning blend of Assyrtiko and Sémillon hailing from the Pangeon region of Greece. On a par with Bordeaux’s best whites, the wine is outstanding, its distinctive aromas of ripe, tropical fruits, apricot,

Black cod den miso

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Throughout the meal, the service is swift and attentive, our waiter replenishing water glasses and topping-up the wine discreetly at lightning speed premium sushi and sashimi, the plate resembling culinary art and each piece on it imparting a divine mouthful of flavours.

Salmon Karachi

honey and nuts providing a long, fullbodied and refreshingly acidic finish. SERVED ON A CHINA SPOON, A zesty amuse bouche of wild Cypriot sea bream ceviche is a large mouthful of wonderful flavours. It’s also the perfect introduction to the Special Omakase menu, chosen by head chef Petros Pfeiffer Kefalas, who worked at Matsuhisas in Sardinia, Monte Carlo, Paris and Athens before taking the helm in Limassol when the restaurant opened in 2019. A LIGHT OPENER OF THINLY CUT sashimi of grouper, served with spicy South American aji amarillo, chervil and redcurrants, is a true fusion dish, the thinly sliced fish and bright chilicitrus sauce complementing each other

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perfectly. It is followed by a second course of superior New Zealand Öra King salmon, prepared using a signature Nobu technique to retain all the texture and flavour of this best-of-breed meat. Garnished with pine nuts and green beans, the dish is utterly moreish. THROUGHOUT THE MEAL, THE service is swift and attentive, our waiter replenishing water glasses and toppingup the wine discreetly at lightning speed. As a multitude of waiters nimbly dart around the room, other diners appear to be enjoying the same first-class service. Created by head sushi chef Paris Katsampis – who also worked at Matsuhisa restaurants in Sardinia, Monte Carlo, Paris and Athens before arriving in Cyprus – the third course is a beautifully presented selection of

A WELCOME BOWL OF LOVE ON A winter’s night, the sushi is followed by clear golden inaniwa udon soup with shitake and shimegi mushrooms. An ancient recipe dating back hundreds of years, the intensely flavoured broth is warming, the noodles are filling and the soup is the perfect prelude to the slightly more substantial courses to come, which follow a salad of baby spinach, mixed berries and tofu tempura, finished with a sesame dressing and black truffle. Not particularly a fan of tofu, the salad is my least favourite dish of the night, but the arrival of some YK35 premium sake lifts my spirits and propels the meal into its second half. Produced on Sado Island off the coast of Niigata and made from Yamada Nishiki rice (which is one of the top grades of Japanese rice used in sake), the sake is medium-bodied and silky smooth. ROASTED ON A TRADITIONAL Japanese ceramic plate, the sixth course of sea bream with mixed vegetables, topped with a yuzu truffle soy, is a

TA S T E & S I P REVIEW

Salmon Tacos

MATS UHI SA L IMAS S O L culinary triumph, the fish coming apart like butter. It is followed by undoubtedly the finest and somewhat climactic dish of the night. A5 Wagyü from Kagoshima prefecture in Japan is arguably the finest beef in the world. At Matsuhisa Limassol, this top-grade meat is prepared hobayaki style on charcoal over dried magnolia leaves. Served with a wasabi chimichurri, every mouthful of the refined beef is juicy and buttery-smooth, almost melting in my mouth. Very much a carnivore, the end of the main meal leaves me on a meaty high.

service and the finest foods inventively presented, served in a handsome Rockwell interior, which makes the restaurant standout. Quite possibly the slickest dining experience on the island and almost certainly the source of the best Japanese cuisine in Cyprus, to dine at Matsuhisa Limassol is to enjoy so much more than a meal.

EXECUTIVE CHEF: Petros Kefalas ADDRESS: 95 Amathus Avenue, Agios Tychon, Limassol 4533, Cyprus TELEPHONE: +357 25 442222 EMAIL: info@amarahotel.com WEBSITE: www.amarahotel.com CUISINE: Japanese Peruvian OPENING HOURS: Every day 18:30 - 01:00 (last orders 22:30) DINNER PRICE: Yellowtail sashimi jalapeño EUR 20; Baby spinach salad dry Miso EUR 35; Rock shrimp tempura EUR 26; Black cod den miso EUR 45; Chocolate bento box EUR 11

A BRIGHT, PRE-DESSERT OF YUZU sorbet, that refreshes my palate with its uniquely citrus and tart flavours, clears the way for a chocolate celebration that I gladly make room for. A trio of chocolate dishes of different textures and flavours, the accompanying miso caramel ice cream is irresistible and complex, with the miso providing a distinctive saltiness. WHILST AN OMAKASE MENU undoubtedly shows off the artistic and culinary talents of a restaurant’s chefs, at Matsuhisa Limassol, it is the skilful harmony of superb music, excellent

FOOD ATMOSPHERE

IDEAL MEAL: Seven-course chef’s omakase menu EUR 85 - 110 RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes CHILDREN: High-chairs and kids menu available CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Onsite complimentary valet parking TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner Chocolate bento box with matcha green tea ice cream

Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

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LIZ BINGHAM

DIS COVERS THAT THERE IS SO MUCH MORE THAN VINES AND WINES IN BORDEAUX, WHEN SHE VISITS THE FA M E D F R E N C H W I N E PRODUCING REGION FOR S OME QUALITY OENOTOURISM

OENOTOURISM IN

BORDEAUX

➤ F R A N C E ANYONE WHO watched the 2004 Oscar-winning film Sideways will understand the appeal of oenotourism, also known as ‘wine tourism’. Relatively new yet rapidly expanding its appeal, it takes wine lovers further into the world of wine and offers travellers a privileged tourism experience in wine estates around the world, together with a deeper understanding of winemaking activities and an opportunity to discover different wine-growing regions. In recent years the industry around oenotourism has grown significantly and today generates billions of dollars of revenue annually.

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All images: Château Smith Haut Lafitte

ENCE Manish Mehrotra

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As the name suggests, wine tourism includes the tasting, consumption or purchase of wine, usually at or near the source or vineyard. Activities can consist of tours of wineries, tastings, vineyard walks and even taking an active part in the annual harvest, which is not to be underestimated in terms of skill and hard work, especially where the grapes are handpicked. CULTURED TRAVELLERS WILL probably be aware of the wellestablished vineyards in the States, particularly Napa Valley and Sonoma in Northern California. There have been rich oenotourism offerings in these areas since the mid 1970s. Indeed, it is such a popular pastime in the US, that latest figures suggest that 27 million (or 17%) American leisure travellers have engaged in culinary or wine related activities to date. Whilst other parts of the world are catching up fast, countries such

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as Spain – which has a long history of producing wine – only started a concerted effort to market oenotourism in the mid-2000s. IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO BE either a gourmand or a wine aficionado to get a great deal of pleasure and interest from an oenotourism experience. Many vineyards now offer a wide range of non-wine related activities, including jogging trails, art exhibitions, spas, cycling routes and other sports. Additionally, the science behind successfully growing fruit, harvesting it, blending it and ageing it provides a fascinating insight into the production of what is now a ubiquitous drink of choice for millions if not billions of adults around the world. If the aforementioned variety of activities and the prospect of tasting world-class wines is not enough to tempt you, many of the world’s best vineyards are steeped in centuries of history and

TA S T E & S I P

EXPERIENCE

set in the most beautiful locations of natural beauty. WHETHER OENOTOURISM IS A new adventure for you or a well-trodden path, there is no better place to head than Bordeaux in south west France for a refined, wine-led vacation. Not only does the city itself offer a wealth of history and culture, it is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List for its spectacular architecture and its longstanding global significance. And recognised as one of the world capitals of wine, Bordeaux winemakers have had plenty of time to perfect their art, since some of their vines are reputed to date back to the middle of the 1st century! WITH A PERFECT TEMPERATE/ subtropical oceanic climate, there are plenty of warm and sunny days to be enjoyed by tourists and vines alike in Bordeaux. Long summers for ripening fruit combined with a mixed terroir of river gravels on the left bank and clay and limestone on the right bank provide ideal growing conditions for a range of grapes. These growing conditions have led to a proliferation of winemakers and there are now over 10,000 chateaux in Bordeaux producing wine. Whilst both red and white wines are made in the region, it is fair to say that its reds are probably better known and recognised, with exceptional wines generally made from varying blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Of course, it is the alchemist skill and artistry of the individual winemaker that produces medium to full bodied wines with bold aromas of fruit and soil. Given the complexity of winemaking and maker’s individual skills, as well as the different terroir, there is no simple label to explain the taste of Bordeaux reds. But spend any time in this region and you will definitely find a wine to tickle your tastebuds. Whilst Bordeaux is best known for

All images: Les Sources de Caudalie

its reds, Bordeaux whites should not be underestimated. A dry Bordeaux is a complex cornucopia of flavours of spice, citrus, honey and vanilla. Typically blended from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Sauvignon Gris grapes, at their best they are rich, deep, concentrated and powerful. NESTLED AMONGST THE vineyards of historic Château Smith Haut Lafitte, just a few kilometres south of the city of Bordeaux, luxury hotel Les Sources de Caudalie was mindfully designed to minimise its environmental impact and many of the materials used in construction were reclaimed. Delivering the essence of oenotourism in chic and tranquil hospitality surroundings, it was an early pioneer of wine tourism in the region and its amenities are everything one would expect of a five-star hotel matched only by the warmth of welcoming staff. Evidently a family-run enterprise, to stay at Les Sources de Caudalie is to truly lodge at a home-away-from-home

and even your dog is welcome. Visually, the hotel has been built in the style of a French hamlet, with buildings centered around stunning gardens and a large pond which is home to swans, geese and ducks. The décor is calm and stylish and every room has been individually decorated by the owner with flair, adding to an overall sense of wellbeing and feeling at home. All suites have direct access to the gardens and views of grape vines. Stylish furnishings nod to Scandinavian style with just the right amount of personal touches and thoughtful lighting to provide a welcome haven. Huge beds are supremely comfortable and laid with covetable high thread count bed linen. Oenotourism is so much more than fine wines and good food. Although both are obviously on offer at Les Sources de Caudalie, the hotel also offers a range of sporting activities, complete with outdoor and indoor pools. A magnificent spa, offering a wide range of therapies and relaxation treatments, crowns the hotel’s leisure offerings.

TA S T E & S I P EXPERIENCE

Château Smith Haut Lafitte

CONSISTENT WITH THE philosophy of environmental and eco sustainability, the hotel boasts its own vegetable gardens and beehives for the cultivation of fresh produce which is utilised in its three onsite restaurants. The drive to reduce human impact on the environment only enhances the gastronomic experiences at Les Sources de Caudalie. The hotel’s main restaurant, La Grand’Vigne, has 2 Michelin stars and attracts a discerning clientele from a wide area, which is drawn by a combination of fine seasonal fare, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte wines and the tranquil and stylish ambience. Top-end cuisine can also be enjoyed at slightly more relaxed La Table du Lavoir, which is another of the hotel’s architectural delights of ancient timber and floor-to-ceiling glass. On a wet Monday evening in early December, every table was full. The hotel also boasts a casual wine bar and gourmet deli, Rouge and a cosy lounge-styled bar, Le French Paradox

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where more than 1,200 bottles are stored. And for those wishing to further their personal culinary skills, 3-hour cooking classes are offered at La Grand’Vigne followed by lunch. ➤ https://www.sources-caudalie.com ADJACENT TO LES SOURCES de Caudalie, winery Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is owned and operated by the same family as the hotel. This exemplary vineyard dates back to the 14th century, when the first few rows of vines were planted. George Smith, a Scottish wine merchant acquired the property in the mid-18th century and named it after himself. Its subsequent owner acquired the estate in 1842 and elevated it to Grand Cru Exceptionnel status which it still enjoys today. The vineyard’s current owners, Daniel and Florence Cathiard acquired the estate in 1990 with the intention of perpetuating its tradition of excellence and producing world class wines through the adoption of a long-term sustainable approach.

Now a certified organic vineyard, at the centre of operations today, the magnificent gothic architecture of the château itself is the starting point for fascinating tours that don’t disappoint even the most seasoned of oenotourists. In celebration of each annual harvest, the Cathiards buy a contemporary artwork, usually from local Bordeaux artists. These magnificent pieces can be found all over the estate, and particularly in an art trail set in the forest surrounding the vineyard. ➤ www.smith-haut-lafitte.com WHETHER YOU’RE A WINE aficionado or not, quite aside from the vineyards, with hundreds of historical buildings and monuments, dozens of museums and art galleries and some of the best food in France, Bordeaux is ripe for discovery and easily accessible by road from most parts of mainland Europe, which is surely an added bonus in these times of travel uncertainty.

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N E WC O M E R

NEWCOMER H O U S E D W I T H I N A H I S T O R I C 19 T H C E N T U R Y B U I L D I N G I N T H E S H A D O W O F G A L A T A T O W E R , N I C H O L A S C H R I S O ST O M O U V I S I T S A S O P H I S T I C A T E D N E W I TA L I A N E AT E RY I N T H E H E A RT O F I S TA N B U L

CORTILE

➤ I S T A N B U L TURKEY ISTANBUL IS A fiery melting pot in more ways than one. Massively rich in both cultural and gastronomic heritage, this mega metropolis of more than 15 million people boasts one of the widest varieties of places to eat on the planet in one city,

ranging from Turkish street food to topend Japanese cuisine and quite literally everything in between. And right in the very heart of the city, the historic neighbourhood of Galata – often known as Pera locally or Karaköy in modern Turkish – is in many ways distinct from the rest of Istanbul as being even more culturally and gastronomically unique, having lived a different, fascinating life of its own. LOCATED AT THE NORTHERN shore of the Golden Horn on the European side of Istanbul, back in

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the 10th century, the area was an important base for European merchants who moved their goods from West to East via the hub of Galata. By the 11th and 12th centuries, one of the most important foreign groups to settle in Istanbul were the Italians, particularly the Venetians and especially the Genoese, who made Galata their home and base of operations. Before long, it was ships belonging to the Venetians and the Genoans which teemed in Istanbul’s harbours and Italian entrepreneurship came to dominate the city’s trading scene. To defend their interests in Istanbul, these early Italian merchants flexed their financial and military might by rebuilding the Galata Tower in 1348, bigger, stronger and taller to a height of 70 metres, making it the highest

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point within the walls of the entire district of Galata, which by then had been officially granted to the Republic of Genoa in return for its support during the crusade. Now effectively a Genoese colony, the architecture, culture and administration of Galata all became distinctly Italian. Indeed, the presence of the Genoese and their cultural domination of the district is one of the most important periods in the history of modern-day Galata, and their influence and strong trading links with the eastern Mediterranean coastal lands of Turkey, Syria and Lebanon can still be felt to this day. EVEN AFTER THE OTTOMANS conquered Galata along with the rest of Constantinople in the mid-15th century, the Genoese were allowed to return

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to the area. They even retained their semi-autonomy and self-government. Venetians were also invited to repopulate the area and resurrect their trading enterprises. The influence of the Venetians can be seen most obviously in Galata’s buildings, many of which bare an unmistakable Venetian character, as well as the establishment of a coffee culture that became common to Turkey, Italy and many other European cities. The Italian communities is Istanbul were concentrated in the streets around the base of the Galata Tower and a number of their descendants’ families still remain today, along with a plethora of coffee shops. IN THE MID-19TH CENTURY, the opening up of the Ottoman state

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and the fallout from the Crimean War brought British, French and Italian diplomats and soldiers into Constantinople, most of whom settled in Galata. Many of these diplomats also built their respective embassies around this time, some of which still stand as consulates on Istiklal Avenue. A number of European nations also constructed their own schools in Galata, including the Germans, Austrian and French. Today, the Galata Tower is still one of modern Istanbul’s major landmarks and more than 800 years after it was rebuilt by the Genoese, it continues to tower over the shops and streets of Karaköy. And while much of the district’s historic walls were demolished in the mid-19th century, several sections survive today, including a large part that has been lovingly incorporated into Ecole St. Pierre hotel, which is set within what was originally a French school founded in 1842 and known as Collège des Frères St. Pierre. OCCUPYING A PART OF THE former school that was used for choir practices in days gone by, where visitors also watched the choir rehearse, IL Cortile is uniquely set within deeply historic surrounds dating back more

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than 175 years. It is the intense history contained within the walls that enclose the restaurant which made its conception and construction a lengthy labour of love for the hotel’s owners. Indeed, the meticulous planning and careful execution of the hotel and restaurant took almost 8 years. When IL Cortile eventually opened late last year, the restaurant was an overnight success, not least thanks to its sympathetic marriage of the old and storied and new and contemporary in its beautiful main dining room, complete with splendid art-like lighting installations and mosaics inspired by Genoese mariners. Echoes of the building’s previous use are evident throughout the architecture of the restaurant and the modern décor sits incredibly comfortably within the venue without upsetting the past. This was obviously a difficult path to walk for the restaurant’s designers, but one which Kitchen-ist executed exceedingly skillfully with a great deal of care and attention to detail, making dining at IL Cortile a visual as well as a culinary pleasure. Drawing upon the inherent Genoese history of the area, the restaurant’s executive chef, Nihat Sancar takes diners on a nostalgic journey through Ligurian cuisine, serving an ambitiously large menu of diverse dishes prepared with the freshest seasonal produce and natural ingredients. A variety of fresh pasta is handmade on site, pizzas are cooked in a traditional wood-fired oven and classic Italian dishes are executed with flair, bursting with rich yet not overpowering or clashing flavours, demonstrating Sancar’s international training. And the presentation of all dishes is slick and appealing without being over fussy. Relaxed and warm yet resolutely Italian, in tandem with the upbeat surroundings and attentive service, the result is a restaurant where guests can drop in for one course and a glass of vino, sip aperitivo al fresco while nibbling on small plates in the pretty courtyard, or feast on four courses of exceptionally good Italian fare.

Chef Nihat Sancar

THERE ARE FEW PLACES IN Istanbul where the city’s storied past and gastronomic heritage come together so successfully today in one place. There are even fewer still situated in locations as atmospheric as Galata, over which the Italians presided for centuries. In IL Cortile, the owners have deftly combined history, culinary excellence and architectural beauty to great effect, making visiting this new restaurant an absolute must for lovers of Italian cuisine. ➤ www.estphotel.com

FASHION ICON

haute couture’s playful genius R E N O W N E D G L O B A L LY F O R H I S A V A N T- G A R D E H A U T E C O U T U R E A N D S H O W- S T O P P I N G , G E N R E - B U S T I N G C R E A T I O N S , M A N F R E D T H I E R R Y M U G L E R D I E D E A R L I E R T H I S Y E A R . T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

L O O K S B A C K AT T H E L I F E O F O N E O F T H E W O R L D ’ S M O S T TA L E N T E D A N D O U T R A G E O U S FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R S

Mugler collaborated with designer Abel Villarreal on this rubber and leather suite for his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1997 “Les Insectes” collection

THE FIERCE FASHIONS OF Thierry Mugler undoubtedly dominated the world’s catwalks in the late 1980s and much of the 1990s, which is a huge chunk of fashion history to have ruled such a cut-throat industry. The French fashion designer died in January 2022 at the age of 73, somewhat unexpectedly, at a time when Mugler was very much still in the public eye, having been discovered by a new generation of power women courtesy of Beyoncé, Cardi B and Kim Kardashian, and been the subject of a major retrospective exhibition in Montreal and Paris, where it continues to run. SPANNING MORE THAN FIVE decades, Mugler was born in Strasbourg but his fashion career didn’t begin until he moved to Paris. The son of a doctor and an elegant stay-at-home mother, young Manfred spent his teenage years studying at the Strasbourg School of Decorative Art. He joined the ballet corps of the

Fashion is a movie. Every morning when you get dressed, you direct yourself Manfred Thierry Mugler

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Eva Herzigová wearing Thierry Mugler, Haute Couture AutumnWinter 1992- 1993 “Les Cow-boys” collection

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National Rhine Opera at the age of 14. Dancing professionally for six years, Mugler developed an appreciation and an understanding of performance. It was this sense of theatre which became the foundation for Mugler's dramatic shows in the next decade of his life. Creating and designing his own clothes in his teens, young Mugler was reputedly bored and lonely until he reached the French capital. IN LATE 1960S PARIS, MUGLER worked for various fashion designers and as a photographer, whilst continuing to make his own clothes, including ground-skimming army coats and trousers dyed in countless colours. Showing his first designs in 1973, soon after launching his eponymous brand the following year, top London department store Harrods picked up the Thierry Mugler line and he quickly became known for his visionary styling, forceful cutting and sharp tailoring. Celebrated photographer

Linda Evangelista wearing Thierry Mugler in George Michael’s Too Funky video, 1992

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Mugler’s runway. And Mugler dressed Madonna for a Life magazine cover, early in her career. Strong, dramatic and sexy, Mugler’s creations attracted men and women who were tough and in command yet had a sense of humour and flirtatiousness. For despite the exaggerated power shoulders and defined shapes, his clothes inherently embodied a sense of fun and theatre. Classic garment construction was routinely merged with exaggerated, even surreal silhouettes to stunning effect. BY THE 1980S, MUGLER HAD established himself as a major figure in international fashion and a Parisian couture star and as his name grew, so did the size, drama and theatrics of his runway shows and seasonal collections. Ingrained with a completely unique aesthetic for colour and form, Mugler utilised his theatre and ballet experience to conjure up the themes for his shows. Reimagining fashion as a spectacle, they were inspired by everything from Africa and 1940s glamour to automobiles and science fiction and featured many of the era's best-known supermodels, including Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. Throughout his many collections, while Mugler presented women as angels, goddesses, insects, robots and Helmut Newton was hired to shoot an early ad campaign and Mugler’s clothing continued to be used in several of his Vogue shoots throughout the following decade. UNDOUBTEDLY A HAUTE couture pioneer, Mugler's boundarypushing designs - with their signature, structured broad shoulders and nipped waists - both helped to shape and later epitomise the extravagant style of the '80s. Latex, leather and curves featured heavily in his clothes. Early clients included David Bowie and Grace Jones. Mugler designed Bowie and Iman’s wedding outfits. Jones ended-up on

Emma Sjoberg wearing Thierry Mugler’s Motorcycle Corset in George Michael’s Too Funky video, 1992

A photograph must come from imagination and not be a reflection of what is Manfred Thierry Mugler

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even clams, his work always retained a sense of elegance amid the commotion. WHEN MUGLER STAGED A SHOW, no one in fashion came close to the level of theatre Mugler created. In 1984, he took over the Zenith sports arena in Paris, to stage what was one of the most theatrically ambitious fashion shows in decades. Unabashedly embracing gay iconography, smoke billowed from the stage as Pat Cleveland, as the Madonna, was famously lowered onto

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Model Jerry Hall was a muse of Mugler’s, having modelled in his first runway show in 1978. She become the face of his Angel fragrance in 1995

FA S H I O N I C O N

the runway from the ceiling. Whilst fashion critics commented that the high drama overshadowed his spectacular tailoring and exceptional construction techniques, stores worldwide clamoured for his clothes. ONE OF THE FIRST TO DO SO, in the early ‘90s, Mugler effectively forged a link between luxury fashion and fragrance courtesy of his hugely popular scent, Angel. Oozing notes of honey, vanilla, chocolate, caramel and patchouli, Angel was and still is hugely successful, enabling Mugler to stage even more flamboyant shows. These culminated in his 1995 twentieth anniversary extravaganza at Cirque d’Hiver in Paris. Yet another spectacle,

I am not trendy. I am not ‘in fashion’. I am simply a positive human being who has a positive outlook on life

the show was rounded-off by a surprise appearance by James Brown, who performed a medley of his greatest hits, and is rumoured to have cost almost USD 2 million. OUTSIDE THE FASHION industry, Mugler was a published photographer who directed ads and short films, including a star-studded

Manfred Thierry Mugler

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Thierry Mugler, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1997-1998. Adriana Karembeu wearing “La Chimère” sheath dress with an articulated gold body made from scales, feathers and horsehair embroidered with rhinestones

Thierry Mugler, Prêt-à-Porter Autumn-Winter 1995-1996. Simonetta Gianfelici wearing the satin sheath “Birth of Venus” gown. Cardi B wore the same piece to the 2019 Grammys

Mugler with a model wearing a full-body metal and plexiglas “fembot” catsuit at the end of the brand’s 1995 20th anniversary show in Paris

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I made clothes because I was looking for something that didn’t exist. I had to try to create my own world Manfred Thierry Mugler

music video for George Michael's 1992 hit Too Funky. Effectively a televised Mugler show, in it, Linda Evangelista played a space-age Cruella De Vil, sporting a peroxide blond wig and dripping in fur, while Emma Wiklund strutted the catwalk in a metal, Harley Davidson-inspired motorcycle bustier complete with handlebars, rearview mirrors and a headlight in the center. The motorcycle bustier was purchased by New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2001, not least because Mugler's work was highly influential in the development of haute couture towards the end of the 20th century. THE FLOOR-LENGTH BLACK dress Mugler designed for Demi Moore's character in the 1993 movie Indecent Proposal was quite possibly one of the most famous frocks of the ‘90s. An iconic dress, it proved that Mugler didn't need bold shapes and colours to create something timeless and showed that the impact of his work on popular culture extended beyond music and fashion.

Thierry Mugler, Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1995-1996. Nadja Auermann wearing an embellished gold, metal and rhinestone corset bodysuit with a chiffon sequined cape, long gold metal gloves and rhinestone necklace

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I used fashion to express myself as much as I could. But at some point, it was not enough Manfred Thierry Mugler

Manfred Thierry Mugler posing for Interview magazine in 2019

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FA S H I O N I C O N Kim Kardashian West wearing Mugler in 2019

commercially viable by the early 2000s and the designer exited the fashion industry to pursue other projects, complaining that it had stifled his creativity, particularly as minimalism came back into style. But Mugler continued to work, albeit largely out of the public gaze, his largesse approach especially lending itself to the stage. IN 2003, MUGLER SERVED AS the creative director of Cirque De Soleil’s blockbuster show Zumanity in Las Vegas. The outlandish spectacle of fire-breathing dominatrixes and drag performers dressed in eccentric costumes, married with musclebound men clad only in underwear, caused an entirely new fashion-forward generation to investigate Mugler's archives for creative stimulation. AFTER SEEING HIS WORK IN 2008 at the Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where several designers' most futuristic pieces were included in a 'Superheroes' exhibition, Beyoncé commissioned Mugler to design the costumes for her 2009 world tour. In creating a 58-piece wardrobe for Beyoncé, acting as a creative adviser, designing stage outfits for her dancers, band and backing singers and directing three sections of the show including the dazzling finale, Mugler was introduced to a new young audience around the world and his early vintage designs gained fresh fans, including Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Katy Perry.

BY THE MID ’90S, IT WAS rumoured that Mugler had become bored with fashion as he increasingly experimented with film and photography and publishing books. In 1997, the massive success of Angel led to Clarins purchasing a controlling interest in the Thierry Mugler brand. MUGLER'S READY-TO-WEAR collections had become less

LADY GAGA INTRODUCED Mugler to yet more new devotees when she donned one of his

Beyonce wearing Mugler in 2009

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vintage creations for her Telephone video, and wore a Mugler dress to the 2011 Grammys, although fans only got to see it once she had climbed out of the egg she arrived in. IN HIS LATER YEARS, Mugler became an avid bodybuilder, began using his first name, Manfred, rather than the middle name by which he had long been known, and dramatically transformed his appearance via a series of facial operations and extreme bodybuilding. Naturally this provided the press with a source of tabloid fodder and he often featured in magazines, leading to something of a comeback as Mugler more frequently dressed celebrities for the red carpet. IN 2019, CARDI B WORE Mugler’s vintage 1995-96 pink duchess satin and black velvet “Venus” sheath dress and embellished bodysuit to the Grammys and fashionistas around the world noticed. Later the same year, Kim Kardashian attended the Met Gala wearing a specially designed Mugler “wet look” dress, which was designed to make it look like she had just emerged from the ocean. The remarkable creation brought Mugler newfound fame and proved, unequivocally, that he would always be at the cutting edge of fashion. AN OUTRAGEOUS SERIES OF photos taken by Steven Klein and published in Interview magazine in 2019, in which the designer was virtually naked, showed Mugler unbelievably pumped-up for a man

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New York City, 1988. Carol Wilson wears Tailleur Vampire by Mugler

who had recently turned 70. In more ways than one, Mugler was still an immense figure in the fashion industry right up until his untimely death.

Showcasing the fantastic world which Mugler created and his incredible fashion legacy, Thierry Mugler,

Couturissime runs at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris until 24 April 2022.

➤ https://madparis.fr

INDEX

L I T T L E B L AC K B O O K WEB ADDRESSES FOR EVERY DESTINATION AND VENUE FEATURED I N I S S U E 3 7 O F T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R M A G A Z I N E

ABBA: THE MUSEUM ➤ www.abbathemuseum.com AFRIKABURN ➤ www.afrikaburn.com A GINJINHA ➤ https://ginjinhaespinheira.com AIRELLES CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES, LE GRAND CONTRÔLE ➤ https://airelles.com ALILA JABAL AKHDAR ➤ www.alilahotels.com AMERICAN CONEY ISLAND ➤ www.americanconeyisland.com ANASSA ➤ www.anassa.com.cy

BAHR ➤ www.bahr.pt BELÉM TOWER ➤ www.torrebelem.pt BELLE ISLE PARK ➤ www.belleisleconservancy.org

CAFE MARTINHO DA ARCADA ➤ www.martinhodaarcada.pt CALOUSTE GULBENKIAN MUSEUM ➤ https://gulbenkian.pt/museu CANNES FILM FESTIVAL ➤ www.festival-cannes.com CARMO ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM ➤ http://museuarqueologicodo carmo.pt CASA LAS TORTUGAS ➤ www.holboxcasalastortugas.com CERVEJARIA LIBERDADE ➤ www.tivolihotels.com CHARTREUSE KITCHEN AND COCKTAILS ➤ www.chartreusekc.com CHATEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE ➤ www.smith-haut-lafitte.com CLAUS PORTO ➤ https://clausporto.com COACHELLA ➤ www.coachella.com CONSERVEIRA DE LISBOA ➤ www.conserveiradelisboa.pt

DETROIT INSTITUTE OF ARTS ➤ www.dia.org DUBAI WORLD CUP ➤ www.dubairacingclub.com

EASTERN MARKET ➤ www.easternmarket.com

ECOLE ST. PIERRE HOTEL ➤ www.estphotel.com EMBAIXADA ➤ www.embaixadalx.pt

LX FACTORY ➤ https://lxfactory.com/en LYDMAR HOTEL ➤ www.lydmar.com

F1 AUSTRALIAN GRAND PRIX ➤ www.australia-grand-prix.com FORA ➤ https://fora.pt FOTOGRAFISKA ➤ www.fotografiska.eu FRIEZE NEW YORK ➤ www.friezenewyork.com

GALERIA TEREZA SEABRA ➤ https://galeriaterezaseabra.com GALLE FACE HOTEL ➤ www.gallefacehotel.com GASTON ➤ www.gastonvin.se GRAND HÔTEL, STOCKHOLM ➤ www.grandhotel.se/en GRAND HYATT GOA ➤ www.hyatt.com

HOTEL BARRIÈRE LE CARL GUSTAF ➤ www.hotelsbarriere.com HOTEL CASTELLO DI RESCHIO ➤ www.reschio.com HOTEL LAS NUBES ➤ www.hotellasnubes.com HOTEL THE MITSUI KYOTO ➤ www.hotelthemitsui.com

IL CORTILE ➤ www.estphotel.com

JERÓNIMOS MONASTERY ➤ www.patrimoniocultural.gov.pt JOHNNY NOODLE KING ➤ www.johnnynoodleking.com

LER DEVAGAR BOOKSTORE ➤ https://lerdevagar.com/en LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE ➤ www.sources-caudalie.com LISBOA AUTENTICA ➤ https://lisboaautentica.com LUVARIA ULISSES ➤ www.luvariaulisses.com

MARDI GRAS, NEW ORLEANS ➤ www.mardigrasneworleans.com MATSUHISA LIMASSOL ➤ www.amarahotel.com MICHIGAN OPERA THEATRE COMPANY ➤ www.michiganopera.org MOTOWN MUSEUM ➤ www.motownmuseum.org MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART DETROIT ➤ www.mocadetroit.org

NOBEL MUSEUM ➤ www.nobelmuseum.se

ONE&ONLY PORTONOVI ➤ www.oneandonlyresorts.com ÖSTERMALMS SALUHALL ➤ www.ostermalmshallen.se

PHARMACIA ➤ www.chef-felicidade.pt PRESERVATION DETROIT ➤ www.preservationdetroit.org PRINS EUGENS WALDEMARSUDDE ➤ www.waldemarsudde.se

RAFFLES UDAIPUR ➤ www.raffles.com RED FROG ➤ www.redfrog.pt RICHE ➤ www.riche.se ROCCO ➤ www.rocco.pt ROOTS ➤ https://roots-pizza-holbox. negocio.site RAFFLES UDAIPUR ➤ www.raffles.com ROSEWOOD SÃO PAULO ➤ www.rosewoodhotels.com RUSTED CROW ➤ http://rustedcrowdetroit.com

SAN DOMENICO PALACE ➤ www.fourseasons.com

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL ➤ www.cowboyfestival.org SER CASASANDRA ➤ www.casasandra.com SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA ➤ www.sofitel-legend.com ST. PATRICK’S DAY ➤ www.stpatricksfestival.ie STUREHOF ➤ www.sturehof.com SUD LISBOA ➤ https://sudlisboa.com SUGAR HOUSE BAR ➤ www.sugarhousedetroit.com

TAVERNA BRILLO ➤ www.tavernabrillo.se THE HENRY FORD MUSEUM ➤ www.thehenryford.org THE LUMIARES HOTEL & SPA ➤ www.thelumiares.com THE NEWBURY ➤ www.thenewburyboston.com THE RESIDENCE TUNIS ➤ www.residencetunis.com THE SILO HOTEL ➤ www.theroyalportfolio.com THE UPPER HOUSE ➤ www.upperhouse.com THE VINTAGE ➤ www.thevintagelisbon.com

ULTRA MUSIC FESTIVAL ➤ https://ultramusicfestival.com UNDER KASTANJEN ➤ www.underkastanjen.se

VALLENATO LEGEND FESTIVAL ➤ www.festivalvallenato.com VASA MUSEUM ➤ www.vasamuseet.se VISIT DETROIT ➤ https://visitdetroit.com VISIT LISBON ➤ www.visitlisboa.com VIVE LATINO ➤ www.vivelatino.com.mx

WANDER ➤ www.wandertheresort.com

XIGERA SAFARI LODGE ➤ www.xigera.com

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sophie ellis-bextor C A TA P U LT E D I N T O T H E M U S I C M A I N S T R E A M I N 2000 WITH THE MAMMOTH HIT GROOVEJET, P O P S TA R A N D M O T H E R O F F I V E S O P H I E E L L I S B E X T O R T R AV E L S L I G H T, G E T S S U P E R C O M F Y

PRE-FLIGHT I like to travel light. In fact, I pride myself on being able to travel with hand luggage only, even on fairly long trips away. If I bring a fancy pull along then I love my Tumi. If I’m singing when I land then I take sequins, because they don’t need ironing. I just whip them out, put them on and off I go. LUGGAGE My proudest achievement

of 2021 is somewhat tragically the fact that we went on a week-long trip with our four kids and we only had one piece of hand luggage each. I don’t like checking in bags. I don’t like being separated from my luggage. I like to feel prepped and well-equipped for a trip. ESSENTIALS Game Boy with Tetris, iPad

loaded with TV programs and films, at least two books I probably won’t read and, if I’m working, perhaps

my laptop. I fear boredom. In my bag I may have a range of performance outfits, some heels, my rollers and my make-up. I’m well-oiled with all of this stuff! CAN’T TR AVEL WITHOUT Something to do! I have a busy homelife with a large family and small kids, so if I’m travelling without the smalls then I relish the indulgence of time. I love taking things I can watch uninterrupted - that’s luxury right there. MOISTURISING I don’t

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LONG-HAUL I love the passive

really do much, but I do love Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Lip Balm (if I remember to pack it!) and Elizabeth Arden Perpetual Moisture 24 Cream is legendary. Saying that, I’m not someone who is particularly affected by flight when it comes to my skin.

state you get into on a long-haul flight. I think of it as a bit like being on standby – you’re not really doing much and it feels nice if you give into it. I’ll probably watch as many movies as I can tolerate, enjoy whatever food and drink comes my way and bask in being unavailable for the hours that pass.

ENTERTAINMENT I usually don’t read,

MUSIC Sometimes I’ll listen to music. I’ll usually use cheap over-the-head headphones nicked from the kids.

instead I prefer to watch something or maybe write song lyrics. Books are something I’d rather do in bed. At the moment I’m between books as I’m in the studio finishing a new album and it’s taken over my headspace. I have an optimistic pile of books by my bed, though.

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IN-FLIGHT ROUTINE If I’m lucky enough to fly business then I love getting super comfy, having a glass of wine and watching a good film. If I’m in economy, then I’ll try to get myself snuggled in – ideally I’ll have a window seat – and then get organised with my entertainment stuff. I’m quite good at all that, unless something hasn’t downloaded properly, in which case it’s a disaster. If I’m with the kids, then it’s all about keeping them occupied and having lots of snacks and probably a spare set of clothes for when they spill a drink over us.

PRE-LANDING I’m a very low maintenance

traveller. I’ll just brush my teeth if it’s been an overnight flight and if I need it, I’ll use the little moisturiser they give you in-flight. Then off I go.

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