The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2021 Issue 33 by The Cultured Traveller

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Photo Credit: Chris Reist

The Big Heart of Watches THE FIRST MAURICE DE MAURIAC WATCH DESIGNED BY THE DREIFUSS BROTHERS Maurice de Mauriac’s latest watch heralds the dawn of a new horological era in Zürich. From its conception through to its design and development, brothers Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss created GRAND CŒUR as both an homage to their father and as a beacon of the future that the family-owned brand has embarked upon. Limited to just forty-eight pieces, GRAND CŒUR symbolises and honours life itself. Therefore, each watch is customised with its owner’s own, personalised heartbeat. GRAND CŒUR

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WELCOME TO LAKESIDE LUXURY THE FONTENAY is a reflection of modern Hamburg - an homage to Germany’s largest waterfront city. The new luxury hotel is located

on the tranquil banks of Alster Lake in the heart of the city. The fascinating, sculpture-like architecture mirrors the fluid lines of the lake and lush parkland, creating the perfect balance between nature and urbanity. Designed as an ultimate urban escape, THE FONTENAY epitomizes pure lakeside luxury while offering a contemporary and cosmopolitan way of life.

Fontenay 10 | D-20354 Hamburg | Germany Tel: +49 (0)40 605 6 605-0 | info@thefontenay.com | www.thefontenay.com

Experience serenity and sophistication of a modern luxury resort and an opulence of Oman’s rich heritage.

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highlights

49 EUROPE’S LAST UNDISCOVERED CAPITAL S ed u ced by its se rio u s of f-th e -ra d a r a p pea l , Em ily M illet t h ea d s to th e Lith u a n ia n ca pita l of VI LN I U S to d iscove r a cit y wh e re pe r fectly p rese r ved h isto r y ru bs s h o u ld e rs with a d isti n ctly b o h e m ia n u n d e rc u rre nt .

96 THE WORLD’S MOST BELOVED TENOR Th e Ita lia n teno r wh o h a s su n g fo r p o pes , p resid ents , ki n g s a n d q u ee n s is a o n e -m a n g lo b a l m u sic p h e no m e no n , h a vi n g sold m o re th a n o n e h u n d red m illio n reco rd s wo rldwid e . The C u ltu red Traveller sits d own with th e i n co m p a ra ble A N D R E A BOC ELLI at h is h o m e i n Tu sca ny .

36 ABOVE-THE-CLOUDS TYROLEAN RETREAT Pe rc h ed o n th e so uth e rn slo pe of Plose m o u nta i n , close to th e town of B rixe n i n Ita ly, FO R ESTI S h a s bee n d esig n ed to i m m e rse its g uests i n th e reg e n e rative p owe r of a m a jestic n atu ra l la n d sca pe, wh ile e n joyi n g a bsu rd ly bea utifu l p a no ra m a s a n d s pecta c u la r views of th e Dolo m ites

126 PORTUGUESE SAUDADE DISTILLED IN HAMBURG Fa st beco m i n g a wo rld lea d e r i n th e p ro d u ctio n of q u a lit y g i n s , N ic h ola s C h risosto m o u visits th e H a n seatic C it y of H a m b u rg to d iscove r wh at m a kes G I N S U L sta n d o ut i n a n atio n of h u n d red s of j u n i pe r-b a sed s pi rits .

46 WIN A POOL VILLA STAY AT RAFFLES BALI A n i nti m ate o a sis of e m otio n a l well bei n g , R A FFLES BA LI o pe n ed i n J u ly 2020, resti n g o n a h ill o n I n d o n esia ’s fa m o u s tro pica l isla n d p a ra d ise . I n issu e 33 of The C u ltu red Traveller, wi n a th ree -n ig ht sta y fo r t wo i n a la vish ocea n p ool villa at th is exclu sive, su pe r-l uxe reso r t .

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Camp Sarika, Canyon Point, United States

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99 CONTENTS 10 CONTRIBUTORS 12 EDITOR’S LETTER 16 NEWSFLASH

Browse The Cultured Traveller’s round-up of cultural experiences and happening festivals taking place around the world in the next three months, including TAGATA HONEN MATSURI in the Japanese city of Komaki; DUBAI WORLD CUP – the Gulf’s leading equestrian event; ROUKETOPOLEMOS on the idyllic Greek island of Chios; WALPURGISNACHT (witches’ night) celebrated with dancing and bonfires throughout central and northern Europe, and Italy’s annual PROCESSIONE DEI SERPARI (snake festival), held in the small medieval town of Cocullo.

28 REST YOUR HEAD

Whilst the planet has been fighting a global pandemic, the hospitality industry has quietly debuted hundreds of pristine properties to rest one’s head in luxury. In issue 33, we visit a dozen new hotels

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around the world which positively shine, including the first new luxury property to open for decades on the Thai capital’s legendary River of Kings, CAPELLA BANGKOK; Soho House Group’s first property in Greece, SOHO ROC HOUSE, and Nobuyuki Matsushita and Robert de Niro’s newest hospitality outpost, NOBU HOTEL WARSAW.

62 SUITE ENVY THE BALMORAL in Edinburgh is the oldest and perhaps the most revered member of Rocco Forte Hotels, the boutique-sized group with a steadily growing portfolio of luxurious properties in choice locations across Europe and China. Joe Mortimer checks into the hotel’s SCONE & CROMBIE SUITE – an ode to Scotland’s design heritage and the beauty of its landscape – to discover what makes these GBP 4,000-a-night lodgings so special. 72 SPOTLIGHT

A British powerhouse of art, culture and music, charismatic LIVERPOOL

72 has positively thrived since its eight hundredth birthday in 2007 and being named a European Capital of Culture the following year. Nicholas Chrisostomou enjoys a city break in the Northwest English maritime city renowned for its charming people, striking architecture and burgeoning food scene.

the 1960s and 1970s, creative visionary PIERRE CARDIN died in Paris at the end of 2020. The Cultured Traveller looks back at the extraordinary eight-decade career of the fashion designer with a futuristic touch.

120 TASTE & SIP: REVIEW

Talented singer and Morcheeba front woman, Skye Edwards, talks about twenty-five years in the music industry, juggling a demanding career and large family and her involvement in inspirational album Good Night Songs For Rebel Girls.

Crowning historic Hotel Grande Bretagne and boasting incredible panoramas of the captivating Greek capital, GB ROOF GARDEN RESTAURANT has been one of Athens’ most popular dining venues for well over a decade, offering guests exemplary cuisine in an inimitable setting. Nicholas Chrisostomou checks out its culinary credentials.

84 TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

132 TASTE & SIP: FOOD SCENE

82 FIVE MINUTES WITH

Located northeast of Crete and southeast of Athens, 250 kilometres from the Greek mainland, Daniella Georgiou lands on the largest Dodecanese island of RHODES. Laden with archeological treasures and ancient ruins, she sets about exploring the island’s cultural gems.

107 FASHION ICON

Hailed for designing key futurist looks of

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Germany’s handsome and prosperous second city, Alex Benasuli discovers that HAMBURG’s many cultural highlights are matched by a burgeoning, multifaceted culinary scene.

139 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Hyperlinks to everywhere featured in issue 33 of The Cultured Traveller.

140 ROOM WITH A VIEW

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JOE MORTIMER ➤ SUITE ENV Y A UK-based travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality, and former editor of Destinations of the World News in Dubai, Joe currently contributes to titles including National Geographic Traveler, Robb Report and TTG Luxury, as well as a collection of prestigious inflight and hotel magazines.

E D I T O R- I N - C H I E F

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U C O C O L AT T É MAGGIE BDJIAN JEMIMA THOMPSON STELL A ALEVIZAKI

PUBLISHTER DESIGN EDITORIAL PICTURES

T H I S I S S U E ’ S C O N T R I BU T O R S

J o e M o r t i m e r, E m i l y M i l l e t t D a n i e l l a G e o rg i o u , A l ex B e n a s u l i

The Cultured Traveller magazine

CONTRIBUTORS

is published by Coco Latté

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E M I LY M I L L E T T ➤ CITY FOCUS ON VILNIUS Born into a family of avid world travellers, Emily has had a nomadic spirit for as long as she can remember. Former editor of TTG MENA Luxury and now a travel writer, Emily contributes to a number of in-flight magazines and high-end publications from her bases in London and Nicosia.

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© 2021 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff. The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Read and download the digital edition of issue 33 The Cultured Traveller magazine online at

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ALEX BENASULI ➤ HAMBURG’S FOOD SCENE London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa, as well as North and South America intimately. As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an offthe-beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

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@culturedtraveller

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R 3-6 KENRICK PL ACE LO N D O N W 1 U 6 H D, U K

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E D I TO R ’ S L E T T E R

Clockwise from left: Andrea Bocelli; Hamburg; Rhodes; Vilnius

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YOU DON’T NEED ME TO tell you this, but the travel industry is in turmoil right now. If you live in the UK, you are quite simply banned from travelling overseas for pleasure. And if you’re a resident of Europe, getting around the continent is excruciatingly complex, with the borders of many countries closed to foreign nationals. Never in the history of 21st century leisure travel has it been more difficult to unpack your bucket and spade on a foreign beach. But there is, thankfully, light at the end of the unprecedented coronavirus tunnel, in the shape of multiple vaccines which are being rolled out as we speak. This will hopefully enable economies to restart, people to reconnect and planes to take to the skies and once again ferry holidaymakers to far-away lands. And so, issue 33 of The Cultured Traveller is one of discovery, curated to help you discover off-the-beaten track destinations and slick new hotels that have quietly opened as the pandemic has been raging. For while the world has been fighting the virus, the hospitality industry has, amazingly, continued to grow. Emily Millett explores the characterful Lithuanian city of Vilnius. Brimming with art, culture and magnificent architecture, it is quite possibly Europe’s last undiscovered capital (p49).

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The Cultured Traveller team checks into a dozen new resorts which have premiered around the world during the past twelve months (p28), while Alex Benasuli munches his way around Hamburg’s delicious food scene (p134). Daniella Georgiou delves into the cultural side of the Greek island of Rhodes (p86). Joe Mortimer unpacks his GlobeTrotters in Scotland’s most spectacular hotel suite (p62). And we are honoured to sit down with the world’s most beloved tenor, the inimitable Andrea Bocelli, to talk about his life, family and incredible career (p99). Every period of instability and uncertainly must eventually come to an end. Now that the world is getting a handle on Covid-19, it’s time to rediscover your travel mojo and plot your next, exciting adventure. Let The Cultured Traveller be your guide on this voyage of rediscovery.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

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t +968 2534 4200 or +968 9910 4204

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alilahotels.com/jabalakhdar T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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G L O B A L F E S T I VA L S A N D C U L T U R A L EVENTS IN THE COMING MONTHS

L A S FA L L A S INVOLVING MASSES of fireworks and the burning of giant puppets, this noisy, exuberant celebration attracts people from around the world to the port city of València, which lies on Spain’s southeastern coast. Held in honour of St. Joseph’s Day on 19th March, Las Fallas is believed to have originated in a pagan celebration of the spring equinox, and is first recorded as being held in the late 15th century. Each neighbourhood

in València funds the construction of its own falla - the wood and papier-mâché sculptures at the heart of the fiesta. These often reach 15 metres high and usually poke fun at local and international politicians and celebrities. The fallas are placed at key points around the city, so that visitors can wander about and check them out, before they are burned on night of the final day in a ceremonial fiesta, accompanied by an array of fireworks. 15-19 March 2021 ➤ www.visitvalencia.com

TAG ATA H Ō N E N M AT S U R I IN JAPANESE HŌNEN means prosperous year, implying a rich harvest, while a matsuri is a festival. Held annually at Tagata Shrine in the city of Komaki, just north of Nagoya in Aichi Prefecture, Hōnen Matsuri is essentially a fertility festival marked every year on 15th March and watched by worshippers of all ages. Tagata Shrine is thought to date back 1,500 years and houses a female kami (or god) which embodies fertility and renewal. The grounds are strewn with phallic-shaped rocks set tastefully amongst shady bushes and trees, whilst the shrine building itself contains a selection of wooden members in varying sizes. The festival’s main event centres on a lively procession of a huge two-metre wooden phallus, known as O-owasegata, which is carved annually from white cedar, housed in a mikoshi (portable shrine), and carried on the shoulders of a group of men, all aged 42, to the main shrine. Throughout the procession, sake is freely distributed by cheerful volunteers in close proximity to the main attraction, so it’s wise to walk within a few metres of the giant phallus when attending this festival! 15 March 2021

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D U BA I WO R L D C U P

F 1 BA H R A I N GRAND PRIX

HELD IN ONE OF THE world’s most talked-about cities and attracting the cream of Dubai society as well as a fair few international glitterati, the Gulf’s leading equestrian event and the planet’s richest annual horse race is as much about being seen as it is a tribute to the beauty of Arabian horses. The culmination of the seven-meeting 2021 Dubai World Cup Carnival, during which 158 horses, conditioned by 63 trainers and hailing from 12 countries will have competed for the prestigious prizes on offer, the main event at Meydan Racecourse will see USD 26.5 million presented to the winners of the day’s nine races, which include eight thoroughbred contests and one for purebred Arabians. In years gone by (with the exception of 2020 when the meeting was cancelled due to Covid-19) the after-race concert has been headlined by some of the pop world’s biggest names and the day naturally concludes with a massive fireworks display. 27 March 2021 ➤ www.dubairacingclub.com

NOW THE 2021 F1 season opener since Australia has moved to later in the year, the Gulf Air Bahrain Grand Prix will be the first opportunity for fans to catch a glimpse of new supercars. An atmospheric nighttime event, the 57-lap race is held at Bahrain International Circuit’s 5.4-kilometre Grand Prix Track. The circuit was designed by German architect Hermann Tilke, who also designed the Sepang International Circuit in Malaysia. Fans can usually expect great racing and decent amounts of overtaking in Bahrain, where the drivers have to contend with wind, racing under floodlights and the difficulty of finding a decent set-up within the wide temperature fluctuations between sessions. The track’s most challenging point is the tight, downhill, off-camber Turn 10 left-hander, while the fast run through Turn 12 is another highlight, allowing drivers to really feel their cars coming alive. 28 March 2021 ➤ www.bahraingp.com

HOLI MARKING THE beginning of spring, this ancient Hindu ritual is essentially a two-day celebration of the triumph of good over evil. Otherwise known as the “Festival of Colours” due to the bright powder participants throw at each other, the proceedings begin with the lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising how the god Vishnu helped burn the devil Holika, according to Hindu scriptures. The following day, Rangwali Holi is when people delight in covering their neighbours in water and a rainbow of gulal, or paint powder. Apparently, Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, liked to prank village girls in this fashion. While Holi is observed throughout the world, the best places to experience this festival are undoubtedly India and Nepal, especially Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan and Jaipur. 28-29 March 2021 ➤ www.incredibleindia.com

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HOLI DURING THE ANCIENT, annual Hindu ritual of Holi, also known as the “Festival of Colours”, participants throw brightly coloured powders at each other to celebrate the triumph of good over evil and mark the arrival of spring. ➤ 28-29 March 2021

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NEWSFLASH

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S N OW B O M B I N G REFERRED TO AS the Glastonbury of mountain gatherings in years gone by, and traditionally held towards the end of the annual ski season, Snowbombing is held in the stunning Austrian resort of Mayrhofen in the heart of Tirol and boasts the breathtaking mountain scenery of the Zillertaler Alps. Days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music in mountain-top locales, feasting on scrumptious spreads and relaxing in luxury hotel saunas plus dozens of spas and pools. Nights deliver

NAG H O L L A N D DIVING ESSENTIALLY THE precursor to bungee jumping, this ancient annual ritual (which is not for the faint hearted!) sees brave men and boys of the Sa tribe on Pentecost Island in a remote part of the South Pacific, hurtle towards the ground headfirst from wooden towers of 20-30 metres high. With nothing more than tree vines tied around their ankles and no safety equipment, they plummet groundward at speeds of more than 40mph. During the preparation period, the men seclude themselves from the women and refrain from sex. Tribal members on terra firma sing and dance to help the divers be brave. The vines act as bungee cords and each diver is invited to build their own platform and select their own vine so that no one else can be blamed for a fatal accident! If the vine is too short the jumper will crash into the tower. If it’s too long, he will almost certainly break bones or possibly even perish. Saturdays in April, May & June 2021 ➤ www.dubairacingclub.com

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a completely different experience, with cutting-edge performances happening in a host of unique alpine venues, from pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest clearings and mountain stage sets. Given the ongoing Covid crisis, in all likelihood this year’s Snowbombing will be a smaller and more intimate event, focused around outdoor locations and making the best of the mountain scenery and glorious springtime sunshine. Checkout Snowbombing’s website for news as it’s announced. 5-10 April 2021 ➤ www.snowbombing.com

NEWSFLASH

SONGKRAN THE HOTTEST MONTH of the year in Thailand sees the entire country go bananas in friendly water fights and street parties that last nearly a week. Derived from the Sanskrit word sankrānti and also known as Thai New Year or the Thailand Water Festival, Songkran was originally a way for Thai people to sprinkle water on their family members and elders to bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to images of their beloved Buddha. Today, the festival has transitioned into three days of fun-filled water fights and non-stop revelry in the scorching heat, soaking locals and visitors alike in the teeming streets with buckets of water, hoses and super-soakers. Previously held on dates that were dependent upon the Thai lunar calendar, whilst Songkran is now commemorated on the same days every year, the sopping wet celebrations typically begin before and end many days after the official holiday! 13-15 April 2021 ➤ wwww.tourismthailand.org

THRISSUR POORAM E L E P H A N T F E S T I VA L KNOWN AS THE cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala, its name literally translating to “the city of the Sacred Siva”, Thrissur, the country’s 20th largest city, is rich in history, brimming in cultural heritage and wealthy in archaeological treasures. Its annual elephant festival attracts those with a weakness for colourful Indian celebrations that both delight and assault the senses at the same time. In a region in which elephants are a common feature of religious festivities,

Thrissur Pooram stands out as an observance that is especially endowed with the presence of these giants which are, of course, the main attraction, decorated with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings. Ornate parasols – carried by the elephant riders on tall bamboo poles – add to the stunning, overall visual feast of it all, complete with fireworks, folk dancing, revelry and plenty of drumming. 23 April 2021 ➤ www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

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SONGKRAN ORIGINALLY A way for Thais to sprinkle water on their family members to bring good fortune, today the festival of Songkran has transitioned into three days of fun-filled water fights and non-stop revelry. ➤ 13-15 April 2021

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NEWSFLASH

TTHHEE CCUULLTTUURREE DD TT RR AA V E L L E R

WA L P U R G I S NIGHT

HANUMAN JAYA N T I THROUGHOUT INDIA, there are hundreds if not thousands of temples dedicated to Hindu god Sri Hanuman, an ardent devotee and eternal servitor of Lord Sri Ramachandra. Worshipped as a symbol of energy and strength, and revered for his devotion to Lord Rama, in all Vaishnava temples, there is at least a shrine dedicated to Hanuman. Devotees worship and pray to him, to remove the obstacles in the path of their devotional service. Held in remembrance of Hanuman’s birth, Hanuman Jayanti is celebrated annually throughout India, although it is marked on different days in differing parts of the country. During this important Indian cultural celebration, devotees flock to temples to pay their respects to the deity and honour his legacy. 27 April 2021

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AN ANCIENT RITUAL to welcome the spring weather and drive away evil spirits, although there are many variations of Walpurgisnacht (witches’ night), this festival is commonly celebrated with dancing and bonfires on 30th April or 1st May throughout central and northern Europe. It is held exactly six months after All Hallows’ Eve, more commonly known as Halloween. And, like Halloween, Walpurgis has its roots in ancient pagan customs, including celebrating the arrival of spring with bonfires at night, since the night of 30th April is halfway between the spring equinox and summer solstice. In Germany, Walpurgisnacht is the night when the witches gather together at the Hexentanzplatz (witches’ dance), from where they fly up as one to Mount Brocken, where they convene with the devil. Legend says that evil ghosts represented by cold weather, snow and darkness meet with witches and demons in the Harz mountains. Their sinister cavortings around the fire are said to reunite them with the devil. Whilst this may sound like superstitious nonsense, people from all over Germany head to famous Blocksberg mountain, many dressed as witches, to mark Walpurgisnacht and celebrate the arrival of Spring. 30 April 2021

ROUKETOPOLEMOS ON THE IDYLLIC GREEK island of Chios, the fifth largest island in Greece, the most important date in the Christian calendar is marked in a rather unique fashion. On the eastern end of Chios, in the small town of Vrontados, many residents are ship owners or shipbuilders and legend has it that Christopher Columbus spent time here to learn how to use maritime charts. Other folklore relates that the Greek poet Homer was born or lived near Vrontados. In any event, amidst the olive trees and almond groves of this breezy seaside village are the two churches of St. Mark’s and Panaghia Ereithiani, built on hilltops around four hundred metres apart. Like many proximate parishes around the world, there is a rivalry between these houses of worship and their respective congregations. But on Chios this is settled once a year with a veritable rocket war on the night before Greek Easter Sunday, throughout which, as literally thousands of fireworks are being shot between the two, congregants go to church. The origin of Rouketopolemos is unclear, but it apparently dates back to the Ottoman era. The winning village is apparently the one which scores the most direct hits on the other’s church! 27 1 May 2021

NEWSFLASH

BRIGHTON F E S T I VA L HAVING BEEN HELD IN venues both familiar and unusual across the bohemian, British south coast city for years, Brighton Festival has firmly established itself as an annual celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film and literature, as well as a great supporter of the arts. A veritable creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment happenings – including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances – many of the festival’s events are specially commissioned and enjoy their first public outings every May. Previous guest directors of this LondonBy-The-Sea, critically acclaimed mixed arts fest have included Vanessa Redgrave (2012) and acclaimed visual artist and cartoonist David Shrigley (2018). This year, BAFTA nominated award-winning writer, best-selling author, prolific speaker and acclaimed poet Lemn Sissay will act as the festival’s guest director (pictured). A passionate and powerful voice, whose performances are humbling and exhilarating, Sissay is Chancellor of Manchester University and was awarded an MBE in 2010 for his services to literature. Watch this space for details of the festival’s event line-up for 2021. 1-23 May 2021 ➤ www.brightonfestival.org

C I N C O D E M AYO IN MID-20TH century America, the celebration of Cinco de Mayo became, amongst Mexican immigrants, a way of boosting pride in their heritage, not to mention an excuse to eat Mexican food and drink tequila all day! But in Mexico the holiday is celebrated a little bit differently, because Cinco de Mayo commemorates a military victory on 5th May 1862 when, despite being vastly outnumbered by the French, the Mexican army was triumphant. In Puebla, the day is

celebrated with parades, speeches, mouthwatering meals and historical re-enactments of the famed 1862 battle. Visitors to Puebla experience an authentic, vibrant and colourful celebration, featuring art spectacles, costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing filling the streets. A thick sauce made with green chilies that is usually served over turkey or chicken, be sure to sample mole poblano, the most traditional of Cinco de Mayo dishes. 5 May 2021 ➤ www.visitmexico.com

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RHINE IN FLAMES EVERY YEAR, THE picturesque River Rhine in Germany is lit up by dramatic and elaborate firework shows, in five different locations along this great, historic waterway. For onlookers, this multi-faceted event is nothing short of spectacular. “Rhein In Flammen” kicks-off with the Bonn extravaganza on the first Saturday of May. Held at Rheinauen Park, thousands of red, fluorescent Bengal fires light the way downstream, for a fleet of dozens of decorated and illuminated ships along a 26 kilometre stretch – the longest part of any Rhine in Flames spectacle. There are plenty of places to watch the fireworks along Bonn’s promenade, while many board ships to see the displays from the water and feel more immersed in the incredible pageant. Meanwhile, on the river’s banks, wine festivals attract locals and visitors alike, and keep them merry late into the night. 5 May 2021 (Bonn) ➤ www.rhein-in-flammen.com

P ROC ESSION OF SE RP E N TS ITALY’S ANNUAL Processione dei Serpari or “Snake Festival” is held in celebration of Saint Domenico for miraculously removing serpents from farmers’ fields in the Italian region of Abruzzo in the 11th century. Domenico – an Umbrian abbot who lived in Cocullo for around seven years towards the end of the 10th century – became associated with this event when he left the town one of his teeth, which is kept, to this day, as a holy relic in the local church. Ever since, the faithful have believed in the saint’s powers to protect teeth and heal

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snake bites. This unique festival is also said to originate from the ancient worship of Angitia, a Roman goddess of snakes worshipped by people in central Italy. In any event, every year people in Cocullo, a small medieval town in in the Province of L’Aquila in Abruzzo, catch four types of harmless snakes, which are then draped over a wooden statue of Saint Domenico. More and more snakes are added until the statue is almost completely covered, at which point it is carried through the streets, held high in the centre of a long procession. 6 May 2021

NEWSFLASH

GIRONA F L OW ER F ESTI VAL BEST KNOWN FOR its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter and the Roman remains of Força Vella fortress, the historic Spanish city of Girona is located in the country’s northeastern Catalonia region, beside the River Onyar. For ten days every year, Girona’s buildings, courtyards, monuments and gardens are adorned with more than one hundred spectacular floral displays and arrangements, staged alongside a programme of traditional Spanish events and culinary happenings. Whole streets become art installations accompanied by music, lights, fountains and the intoxicating scent of thousands of flowers. Befitting its status and central location on the Plaça del Vi, the city’s bustling square, Girona’s town hall always comes up with a well-planned and dignified display. And throughout Girona during its flower festival, the wonderful ensembles of striking colours and penetrating aromas that accompany the cultural heritage of this beautiful Catalan city, make this part of Europe a must visit spring destination. 8-16 May 2021 (PROVISIONAL) ➤ www.spain.info

HAY FE STIVAL WALE S FOR TEN DAYS annually at the end of May, when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny, thousands of literary buffs, young and old alike, have historically descended upon Hay-on-Wye, in Wales’ beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, to essentially sit and read books. The now world-famous Hay Festival globally celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, lyricists and comedians, novelists and

environmentalists – not to mention the power of great ideas to transform peoples’ way of thinking – and gives everyone from children to professors the opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word. In light of the ongoing Covid crisis, the Hay Festival Wales team is still working on a programme of exciting digital events which will be unveiled in the spring. To be the first to hear, sign up to the Hay Festival newsletter. 27 May–6 June 2021 ➤ www.hayfestival.com/wales

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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NEWSFLASH

CINCO D E M AYO COMMEMORATING THE MILITARY VICTORY of the Mexicans over the French on 5th May 1862, the festival of Cinco de Mayo is celebrated in the state of Puebla with costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing filling the streets ➤ 5 May 2021

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

NEW STA N D O U T H OT E L S

CA N YO N P O I N T ➤ U N I T E D S TAT E S

rest

CAMP SARIKA SITUATED A FIVE-MINUTE DRIVE FROM THE EXCLUSIVE

enclave, surrounded by six hundred hectares of raw wilderness in the heart of

desert hideaway of Amangiri, where many a well-to-do celebrity

the desert.

descended last year once their first local lockdown was lifted, Camp Sarika is

swimming pool and hot tub all set within unparalleled proximity to nature, Camp

the United States’ spectacular Four Corners region.

Sarika has been created for escapism, adventure, solitude wand privacy.

Far from the bump and grind of big-city life, this Western oasis offers some

Surrounded by five national parks, each offering unique and diverse

of the nation’s best hiking, together with magnificent natural wonders and

scenery, not to mention numerous national monuments and the Navajo

incredible vistas that stretch as far as the eye can see.

Nation Reservation, Camp Sarika provides the ultimate deluxe back-to-nature

A serene encampment encircled by starkly beautiful landscape, punctuated

With its own central pavilion and restaurant, two spa suites, a large main

seemingly located in the middle of nowhere at the Utah-Arizona border, within

wilderness experience for discerning guests who enjoy the utmost comfort

by deep canyons and vermillion rock formations, just ten tented pavilions –

alongside mesmerising, other worldly landscapes.

each with individual private plunge pools – make up this contemporary luxury

➤ www.aman.com/camp-sarika

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➤ CA N YO N P O I N T ➤ L O N D O N ➤ C H E V E R N Y ➤ L O P U D ➤ BA N G KO K ➤ B R I X E N ➤ WA S H I N G T O N, D.C. ➤ T O KYO ➤ M Y KO N O S ➤ S Ô N G CẦU ➤ WA R S AW ➤ BA L I

your head T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R C H E C K S I N T O A D O Z E N N E W H O T E L S A R O U N D T H E WO R L D W H I C H P O S I T I V E LY S H I N E

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

LONDON ➤ UK

M ID D L E EIGHT LIKE MANY OTHER PLACES IN THE COSMOPOLITAN British capital, London’s Covent Garden has experienced various stages in its life. From humble beginnings in the early 1500s as the vegetable garden of the monks of Westminster Abbey, it has moved through many guises over the centuries, including a home to the aristocracy and the main centre of London theatrical life. At one point, it was the largest produce market in the world. On this colourful journey, both rich and poor have molded Covent Garden’s history, in an area once renowned for rather debauched behaviour! Thanks to Covent Garden’s strong, local community spirit, after the market had moved across the river to Nine Elms by the early 1970s, the village feel and beautiful old buildings of the area were

throughout the hotel with a double-height entrance, contemporary

preserved for their historical value and cultural importance. So,

design aesthetic and natural hues creating a lively and warm

when Covent Garden reopened as a major tourist and shopping

ambiance.

destination in 1980, the future of this important 40-acre site in the very center of London was assured. Taking its name from the type of musical interlude or bridge that differs in character from a song’s melody, and is used to inject

comfort. In addition, a dozen individually-designed suites feature either signature indoor gardens or private outside spaces.

variety into a piece of music through a change of key or tempo,

Whether it’s bespoke furniture, sumptuous bedding, exquisite

slick Middle Eight hotel sits in the very heart of Covent Garden,

Egyptian cotton linen or the use of natural renewable materials,

with both the British Museum and Royal Opera House just five

nothing has been overlooked at Middle Eight to create the ultimate

minutes away on foot.

deluxe London base from which to explore one of the world’s most

Sophisticated first impressions set a tone that is continued

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This bright and airy feel continues throughout the hotel’s 168 rooms, all of which effortlessly combine style with peerless

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cultural and happening cities. ➤ www.middleeight.com

BORN INTO A FAMILY OF OENOPHILES AND HAVING spent her teenage years living on a winery amidst

wine production. An authentic and intensely warm estate of 110-acres, just

vines and nature, Alice Tourbier, together with her husband

two hours from Paris by car, Les Sources de Cheverny is about

Jérôme, opened their first boutique vineyard hotel just over two

getting back to nature fueled by good food and wellness, and

decades ago, offering guests a first-hand opportunity to live the

offers a variety of different rooms and suites, each imbued with

French lifestyle in beautiful surroundings.

a bohemian free spirit. These include 13-bedroom Château de

Their first property – Les Sources de Caudalie – is uniquely

Breuil which stands on the edge of the estate’s forest; an array

located amidst the Grand Cru vineyards of Château Smith Haut

of stone cottages, houses and old farm buildings, and a beautiful

Lafitte, near Bordeaux, and features two restaurants, a wine bar,

suite, La Cachette du Sonneur, located under a weeping willow

a Vinothérapie spa and a wide variety of guest accommodation.

on the shore of a lake.

Since oenotourism is now more widely known and becoming

The centerpiece of the estate is a beautiful wooden spa

increasingly popular, the couple recently opened a second

vineyard hotel in the historic Loire Valley, to share their

therapies and boasting indoor and outdoor pools, large hot tubs

hospitality expertise, mutual passion for all things delicious and

and a fitness room.

love for fine French wines. A touch more trendy than the couple’s first hotel, Les Sources

CHEVERNY ➤ FRANCE

L ES SOU R C ES DE CH E V E RNY

A new gourmet restaurant is due to open in the spring, to complement the informal auberge which already serves a short

de Cheverny is situated amidst the forests and wetlands of

menu of delicious, simple fare enhanced by delectable daily

Sologne, which is an area steeped in history and generations of

specials. ➤ www.sources-cheverny.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

L O P U D ➤ C R OAT I A

LOPUD 1483 A PERSONAL PASSION PROJECT SPANNING MORE than two decades on the car-free Croatian island of Lopud, driven by one of Europe’s most influential art-world figures, has transformed a medieval 15th century Franciscan monastery into an incredible, exclusive-hire five-suite island bolthole, which sleeps ten in super-luxe surroundings. What must surely be one of the most unique hospitality unveilings of 2020 was first noticed by Francesca Thyssen-Bornesmisza in 1992, when she travelled to Croatia to help rescue artworks damaged in the war after the break-up of the Balkans. It was then that she spotted the ruins of the long-abandoned monastery and adjoining fortress, right on the cusp of the Adriatic. It obviously made a strong impression on her, for one year later she showed the ruins to Frank Gehry, who convinced her to take on its restoration but proceed slowly. Over the next two decades, the monastery’s slow restoration was led by Zagreb-based architect Rujana Marković, who skillfully maintained the integrity of the place. Custom-made furniture was fashioned by Italian designer Paula Lenti. Much of the original plasterwork remains, while the garden – set across numerous terraces – is planted with more than 80 species, inspired by the monks who originally inhabited the building. The property’s five bedrooms are contained within a new floor, feature thick stone walls and exposed wooden ceilings, are furnished with Renaissance and Gothic furniture and are complemented by sleek contemporary bathrooms. Valuable artworks and sculpture from the family’s private collection, extending from the 14th century to the present day, punctuate Lopud 1483 throughout. Those who can afford the nightly price tag of EUR 10,000 for the entire place, are able to completely customise their experience, subject to a three-night minimum stay. ➤ www.lopud1483.com

ISSUE 33

➤ M A R C H – M AY 2 0 2 1

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

BA N G KO K ➤ T H A I L A N D

CAPELLA BANGKOK THE FIRST NEW LUXURY PROPERTY TO OPEN ON THE

Every guest room has been designed to evoke the feeling of a personal

Bangkok is sandwiched between the city’s oldest paved road and the

pied-à-terre, draw the outside in and frame panoramic river views through

Chao Phraya river and is the premium brand’s first highly anticipated

floor-to-ceiling windows. Muted interiors offer minimal distraction and

Thailand outpost. Originally slated to launch in 2013, it finally opened its

architectural lines guide eyes towards the Chao Phraya river – the

doors in October 2020 but was well worth the wait, especially from an

lifeline of old-time Bangkok – which steals the show at every opportunity,

architectural perspective.

together with gorgeous local touches found in interior detailing.

Currently undergoing a major transformation, the surrounding Chao

On the food front, the hotel has tapped award-winning Italian-Argentine

Phraya and Charoenkrung neighbourhood is reveling in the rise of its

chef Mauro Colagreco to bring his vision to its signature restaurant, Côte

burgeoning local arts scene and the revival of its provincial culinary

by Mauro Colagreco. Meanwhile, on the riverfront, punchy Thai dishes

landscape. While many Bangkok districts have inevitably moved with the

are served in the glasshouse-like dining area and tree-shaded alfresco

times, this specific area retains a strong sense of community identity,

terrace of Phra Nakhon. A decadent pan-Asian cocktail bar, “Stella”,

which puts the riverfront lifestyle centre stage. Today, Thai tradition and

creates playful cocktails incorporating Asian spirits and herbs in louche,

cultural heritage meet some of the city’s trendiest cafés, bars and art

boudoir-esque surroundings. Meanwhile, Auriga Wellness spa provides

galleries right here.

guests with an extensive list of carefully curated Asian therapies, which

Cleverly, in its 101 suites, the hotel’s design successfully offers a decidedly modern interpretation of the district’s rich history as a cultural

3 43 4

acres along the city’s main aquatic artery.

legendary River of Kings in the past two decades, Capella

combine traditional techniques with contemporary touches. All in all, Capella Bangkok provides the Thai capital with a new kind

meeting point between East and West. In addition, Capella Bangkok is

of sophisticated yet relaxed luxury, that was hitherto missing from the

home to the city’s first riverfront villas, all located within Chao Phraya

sprawling metropolis’ numerous hospitality offerings.

Estate, a premium waterside development encompassing more than 14

➤ www.capellahotels.com/en

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T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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B R I X E N ➤ I TA LY

FOR ESTIS ENCOURAGING YEAR-ROUND RELAXATION and regeneration with a particular focus on time, nature and simplicity, adults-only Forestis is a conceptual, above-the-clouds Tyrolean mountain retreat, located on the southern slope of Plose mountain in Italy, at 1,800 metres above sea level. Forestis is bordered by the Eisacktal to the west, the Lüsner Valley to the north and east and the Aferer Valley as well as the Würzjoch to the south, and surrounded by dense mountain forest. This setting provides the inhabitants of Forestis’ 62 suites with absurdly beautiful panoramas and spectacular, lofty views of the UNESCO world heritage Dolomites, especially the striking, pointed rock formations of the Odles. Perched atop a corkscrew mountain road around 15 kilometres from the town of Brixen, with Verona and Innsbruck airports a few hours away (the latter being much closer thanks to the Brenner Pass), Forestis’ main building was originally designed as a sanatorium for the Austrian monarchy, before being repurposed as a summer sanctuary for Popes and pontiffs. Today, the main building is complemented by three new architecturally stunning towers, that pierce the treetops to house tower suites, a fitness centre and a rooftop bar. A sprawling, super-luxe spa, spread over two floors, is located below the three towers and also boasts magnificent views of the Dolomites. Large indoor and outdoor pools, a brine steam bath, a Finnish sauna, a bio sauna, a textile sauna and one outdoor sauna in a traditional South Tyrolean wooden house are complemented by four treatment rooms, a private spa for couples, two cosmetic rooms and relaxation rooms. There is a silent room for guests to find peace after their sauna or treatment, and a tea lounge features its own curated library of signature South Tyrolean blends. A state-of-the-art gym and a space dedicated to Wyda yoga complete the extensive, premium wellness facilities at Forestis. Cool, calm and minimalistic throughout – with forests and snow-dusted peaks stretching out in every direction from the property – Forestis is in perfect harmony with the elements and has been skillfully designed to immerse guests in the regenerative power of a majestic mountain landscape. ➤ www.forestis.it

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

WA S H I N G T O N, D.C. ➤ U N I T E D S TAT E S

RIGGS WASHINGTON DC BREATHING NEW LIFE INTO AN 1891 FORMER NATIONAL

presides over the room, while other original features have been given

bank and one of the last remaining examples of Romanesque

a new lease of life and the grandeur of the building embraced to create

Revival architecture in the city, Riggs Washington DC is unique for

a welcoming and inspired property that is deeply rooted in D.C. and its

a property that straddles the old and new, in that it cleverly weaves

history.

new nods to the building’s origins throughout, and offers guests many

suites, in which the minibar and safe are hidden within what looks like a

fashion.

traditional steel safe, and terracotta orange painted walls complement

Located on a prominent downtown corner in Penn Quarter – where

striking headboards and patterned wall coverings. Bathrooms feature

several subway lines converge around the National Portrait Gallery, the

a classic navy palette, Italian Carrara marble, chrome hardware and

Capital One Arena and City Center – in normal times, the area positively

amenities courtesy of Brooklyn perfume pioneers D.S. & Durga.

buzzes with foot traffic sufficient to feed the hotel’s grand café and brasserie, subterranean cocktail bar and rooftop event space.

This playful design aesthetic extends to the hotel’s 181-rooms and

humorous and unexpected surprises, universally executed in chic

Located in the heart of downtown D.C., Riggs is within walking distance of many of the city’s must-see attractions, including The White House,

Guests enter Riggs via the building’s original barrel-vaulted lobby,

Capitol Hill, Memorial Park and the National Portrait Gallery, thus making

where the hotel’s expansive ceilings are adorned with impressive and

it the perfect base from which to explore the United States’ charismatic

elaborate coffers. A medallion of the goddess of money, Juno Moneta,

capital. ➤ www.riggsdc.com

ISSUE 33

➤ M A R C H – M AY 2 0 2 1

OCCUPYING THE UPPER LEVELS OF MIXED-USED 38-storey Tokyo World Gate tower in the revitalised

creative themes, all interwoven with hints of Japan. Restaurants and bars are predominantly decked out in black,

Kamiyacho business district of the Japanese capital, The Tokyo

blue and jade, inspired by sapphire, Japanese jade and gold. The

EDITION, Toranomon is a collaboration between Ian Schrager,

hotel’s signature restaurant – The Jade Room – will open later

Marriott International and Miwako Date (president and CEO

this year, helmed by talented Michelin-starred British chef Tom

of Mori Trust), combined with the minimal and contemplative

Aikens. The Gold Bar at EDITION – seating almost ninety guests

touches of much celebrated architect Kengo Kuma.

and seamlessly transitioning from a relaxed lounge by day to a

The opening of the 206-room Toranomon hotel in October 2020 marked the long-awaited arrival of the EDITION brand in Japan, it

sophisticated cocktail bar by night – will also open later this year. Guest accommodation spans the 31st to 36th levels, offers

being the first of two, since a second EDITION is slated to open in

a serene retreat from the hectic pace of Tokyo life and is

the Ginza district later this year.

characterised by expanses of white stained wood, light

A fresh and modern design-led property, the hotel pays

upholstery, low platform beds and oxidised bronze fixtures.

homage to the city’s rich past while maintaining one foot firmly

Slatted oak screens divide the sleeping space from modern

planted in the future, and represents a delicate balancing act

white bathrooms. Suites boast huge, freestanding oval Kaldewei

between the refined, elegant and pure approach of Japanese

bathtubs. Fifteen rooms also have private roof terraces. All offer

culture, style and traditions and EDITION’s passion, sophistication

impressive views of Tokyo’s skyline.

and perpetual desire to break rules to create something entirely

T O K YO ➤ JA PA N

THE TOKYO EDITION, TORANOMON

Almost certainly the most cutting edge, hip and trendy hotel

new for the global hospitality scene. The result is a unique and

currently in the Japanese capital, not to mention the most

magical urban resort, set in the middle of a dynamic capital city

architecturally show-stopping, the Tokyo Edition, Toranomon must

where, in classic Tokyo style, skyscrapers routinely overlap with

surely be the place to stay for cultured travellers visiting one of

holy shrines. This overlapping continues inside the hotel, where

the world’s most exciting cities.

jungles, Buddhist temples and rainbow gems are just a few of the

➤ www.editionhotels.com/tokyo

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

M Y KO N O S ➤ G R E E C E

SOHO ROC HOUSE WHILE MUCH OF THE WORLD WAS IN A STATE OF lockdown, Soho House Group quietly debuted its

Connected by stone-paved paths and surrounded by tiered

first property in Greece, located on almost certainly the most

gardens, the club’s 45 uncluttered and airy rooms range from the

fashionable of the nation’s hundreds of beautiful islands.

usual Soho House Tiny to Extra Large. Pressed plaster covers the

In 2014, after nearly a decade of running Mykonos’ world-famous

floors, benches and built-in beds, which are dressed in crisp white

Paradise Club, Thomas Heyne and Mario Hertel teamed up with

sheets and swathed in mosquito nets. Artful and neo-bohemian yet

Design Hotels to revive pop-up San Giorgio hotel – a village-like

simple touches complete the trendy Mykonian look, including rattan

cluster of typical white Cycladic buildings, perched on a hill above

armchairs, kilim cushions, wicker lampshades and folksy art. Some

between Paraga and Paradise beaches, on the island’s southern

of the upper floor rooms boast huge private terraces with tasseled

tip. Mykonos town and the airport are around fifteen minutes away

hammocks and daybeds. Flip-flops, cotton bathrobes, Shoreditch

by car.

Grind espresso pods and Roberts radios are provided in every

A year later, the German couple launched Scorpios: a social, DJ-led beach club, complete with a restaurant, boutique and event

room. A laidback luxe and open-plan restaurant serves organic

space, located five minutes’ walk from the hotel. Both were so

Mediterranean food in a breezy space, while the club’s happening

successful (especially the beach club) that they became permanent

pool bar serves cocktails and smoothies throughout the day. Stone

fixtures on the Greek party island.

paving, lush botanicals and seamless plaster floors link everything

In 2019, Soho House Group agreed to take over San Giorgio

July 2020.

to the pool, where dreamy sun loungers await. And as if this wasn’t

and Scorpios from Heyne and Hertel for an undisclosed sum. The

enough, it’s just a short walk along the beach to Scorpios, where the

following year, after a subtle revamp, Soho Roc House was born in

beautiful people dance ’til sunrise. ➤ www.sohohouse.com

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dine with us. stay with us

nobuhotelmiamibeach.com

S Ô N G CẦU ➤ V I E T N A M

BÃI SAN HÔ CHARACTERISED BY FLAT AND SANDY BEACHES

above rice paddies while others are set along a pristine white

alongside numerous lagoons and bays, the south

beach – seamlessly blend with the natural simplicity of their

central Vietnamese coastal region of Phú Yên province is a

surroundings. All have been ecologically constructed using age-

relatively undiscovered part of Vietnam, rich in culture and deeply

old techniques and local materials, to authentically replicate the

connected to nature.

different architectural styles of homes found within Vietnam’s

Standing on a secluded peninsula of Phú Yên province, close

natural colours and textures, with handcrafted materials from raw

opened just a few months ago and sits amidst 245 acres of ancient

silk and woven rattan and reclaimed wood to bamboo enhanced by

rice paddies, lush green hills, forests of palms and bamboo groves.

Zannier Hotels’ contemporary styling.

Taking its name from the beautiful one-kilometre bay nearby, the

Three onsite restaurants offer a variety of cuisines ranging from

resort balances get-away-from-it-all relaxation with authentic local

Grandma-Hai authentic regional cooking to fresh seafood and

adventures and cultural experiences.

traditional Southeast Asian fare.

The ultimate expression of Arnaud Zannier’s vision for

The resort’s Hoa Sen Spa continues the regenerative vibe,

creating one-of-a-kind destinations that echo the spirit of

offering mind-body wellness through curated traditional

their surroundings and nurture enriching exchanges with local

Vietnamese therapies and practices. And curated excursions

traditions, cultures and communities, the essence and philosophy

continue guests’ cultural journeys of discovery.

of Bãi San Hô is a desire to share Vietnam’s rich culture and history through a journey of the senses that unite past and present. 71 standalone, sandstone pool villas – some sitting on stilts

traditional villages. Interiors combine a pared-back palette of

to the town of Sông Câu, Zannier Hotels’ new Bãi San Hô resort

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A veritable Vietnamese paradise, Bãi San Hô is a luxe destination resort to relax and experience a deep connection with nature. ➤ www.zannierhotels.com

BEFORE THE E XPLOSION OF THE celebrit y chef phenomenon and restaurant brands with global presences, there was Nobu. From humble beginnings, Nobuy uki “Nobu” Matsushita has created a

WA R S AW ➤ P O L A N D

NOBU HOTEL WARSAW

worldwide empire of design for ward, buzzy, J apanese restaurants and hotels that have created a legion of cult followers around the globe. To walk into a Nobu restaurant is to be transpor ted to another world, where the dining experience is the per fect mélange of culinar y theatre, sexy modern interiors and glamorous diners, surpassed only by the highest qualit y, innovative J apanese cuisine. When hotels were added to Nobu’s of fering in 2013, the brand was catapulted into the hospitalit y stratosphere and has been steadily growing globally ever since. In August 2020, Nobu Hotel Warsaw opened its doors in the vibrant hear t of up - and- coming Warsaw, which is ranked as the world’s seventh greatest emerging market and is fast becoming a new Eastern European hotspot for ar t , design and food. Warsaw marked the Nobu brand ’s t welf th hotel and for t y-third restaurant globally. C omprising 117 sleek guests rooms, a Nobu C afé, a variet y of event spaces and an expansive fitness centre, as well as a Nobu Restaurant , the proper t y is situated on W ilcza Street , the cit y ’s main creative hub, and is housed within t wo buildings: the classic wing being the former Ar t D eco Hotel Rialto, which dates back to 1920 s inter-war Poland, while the modern wing is a brand new contemporar y glass creation. Polish ar t and J apanese detailing unite the t wo. The Old Town is close -by, as are trendy wine bars that spill out onto the pavements in the warmer months, and a decent selection of independent fashion and designer shops, galleries, cafés and restaurants. This makes Nobu Hotel Warsaw ’s neighbourhood a magnet for cultured travellers wishing to discover the many charms of the Polish capital. ➤ w w w.warsaw.nobuhotels.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

RAFFLES BALI RENOWNED FOR ITS FORESTED VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS,

luxurious pool villas, set amongst lush, sprawling gardens. Each has

rice paddies, sandy beaches, coral reefs and cosmopolitan

been purpose-designed to provide discerning travellers with elegant

nightlife, the accommodation offerings on the famed Indonesian island

spaces, privacy and stunning Jimbaran sunsets and includes indoor and

of Bali vary greatly from one extreme to the other. And whilst some

outdoor showers, an indulgent soaking tub and a private pool. Abundant

spectacular private villas are available to rent, few hotels really cut the

sunlight streams in through patio doors and gleams off rich, hardwood

mustard when it comes to super-luxe five-star service. So, the fifteenth

floors. Soft batik tapestries adorn the walls, while rustic rattan furniture

Raffles property to open – on the coast of Bukit peninsula, a short hop

complements sweeping garden views and ocean panoramas beyond.

from the southern end of Jimbaran Bay – is a welcome addition to Bali’s premium hospitality set. A private limo transfer from Ngurah Rai International Airport to this

Grill, positioned on the resort’s secluded beach, and one of the brand’s

luxurious Balinese resort may take less than half an hour, but despite

iconic bars, where guests can partake of a signature Raffles Bali Sling.

its brevity and in the hands of a Raffles butler, the short journey has the

For those in need of some pampering, expert therapists impart

power to quite literally transport visitors from one world to another. And

indulgent treatments at onsite Raffles Spa. Meanwhile, dedicated

as the crowded streets of Jimbaran give way to sun-drenched gardens, a

wellbeing butlers – furnished with an insider knowledge of the island

sense of tranquility and calmness descends. Winding roads take guests

– enrich guests’ stays by arranging and array of unique cultural

deep into the heart of nature, to a hidden corner of the island that is

experiences, from temple dance ceremonies to traditional cooking

steeped in local legend and defined by beliefs and customs that have

classes.

remained unchanged for centuries. An intimate oasis of emotional wellbeing, super-luxe Raffles Bali

With any wish only a request away and Raffles butlers on hand throughout, and to a backdrop of tropical birds calling through the flora

resort opened in July 2020, perched on a hill on Indonesia’s most famous

and the scent of the sea soothing the soul, unsurprisingly perhaps,

tropical island paradise, boasting unparalleled Indian Ocean vistas.

relaxation and contentment come easily at Raffles Bali.

Epitomising distinguished Balinese charm, the resort offers just 32

Onsite food and beverage offerings include Rumari Balinese restaurant, located at the resort’s highest point; Loloan Beach Bar and

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➤ www.raffles.com/bali

BA L I ➤ I N D O N E S I A T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

P R I Z E D R AW W I N A T H R E E - N I G H T S TAY F O R T WO I N A L U X U R I O U S , P R I VAT E P O O L V I L L A AT R A F F L E S BA L I , I N C L U D I N G R E T U R N A I R P O R T T R A N S F E R S A N D V I P A R R I VA L A S S I S TA N C E , DA I LY À L A CA R T E B R E A K FA S T S AT R U M A R I , A N D O N E D I N N E R F O R T WO AT L O L OA N B E AC H BA R A N D G R I L L

One of thirty-two private pool villas at Raffles Bali

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AN INTIMATE OASIS OF EMOTIONAL WELLBEING, super-luxe Raffles Bali resort opened in July 2020, resting on a hill on Indonesia’s famous tropical island paradise, boasting unparalleled Indian Ocean vistas. Epitomising distinguished Balinese charm, this exclusive resort offers just thirty-two luxurious pool villas, set amongst lush, sprawling gardens. Each refined villa has been purpose-designed to provide discerning travellers with elegant spaces, privacy and stunning Jimbaran sunsets, and includes indoor and outdoor showers, an indulgent soaking tub and a private pool. Onsite food and beverage offerings include Rumari restaurant, located at the resort’s highest point; Loloan Beach Bar and Grill, positioned on the resort’s secluded beach, and the brand’s iconic Writers Bar, where guests can partake of a signature Raffles Bali Sling. Expert therapists impart indulgent treatments at Raffles Spa, while dedicated wellbeing butlers – furnished with an insider knowledge of the island – enrich guests’ stays by arranging unique cultural experiences. ➤ www.raffles.com/bali

TO E N T E R Email your contact details to

➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1 June 2021 and the winner will be notified via email. The prize can be used any time before 1 June 2022 subject to availability when booking. Blackout dates will apply. The prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and excluded from the draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

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VILNIUS EUROPE’S LAST U N D I S C O V E R E D C A P I TA L

S E D U C E D BY I T S S E R I O U S O F F-T H E - R A D A R A P P E A L , E M I LY M I L L E T T H E A D S T O

T H E L I T H UA N I A N C A P I TA L TO DIS COVER A CITY WHERE P E R F E C T LY P R E S E RV E D H I S T O RY R U B S S H O U L D E R S W I T H A D I S T I N C T LY BOHEMIAN UNDERCURRENT

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NDISCOVERED DESTINATIONS are the enigmatic ‘tourism mecca’ of today’s increasingly worldly traveller. This makes stumbling upon unchartered secrets, such as Vilnius, all the more rewarding. In fact, it’s almost as though the capital of Lithuania takes pride in being so off-the-radar. Memorable (and sometimes controversial) campaigns from its national tourism board have featured slogans including, “Vilnius – the G spot of Europe” in 2018, and last year, “Vilnius: amazing wherever you think it is”, poking fun at its own obscurity.

LITHUANIA IS STASHED AWAY IN THE REMOTE BALTIC corner of Europe, which could explain its relative anonymity on the tourism scene. But the otherworldly charm of the country, coupled with sweeping swathes of glorious untouched nature and the rich cultural diversity of its quaint yet cutting-edge capital, make this an extremely rewarding destination for a post-Covid escape.

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While one of Vilnius’ many charms is its accessibility, with everything located within easy walking distance, the best place to be based is undoubtedly its medieval old town in the heart of the city centre. And when it comes to ‘location, location, location’, Grand Hotel Kempinski Vilnius is the undisputed champion, boasting an enviable position right on Cathedral Square and 96 elegant fin-de-siècle rooms and suites to write home about. A range of 5-star onsite facilities include a luxe spa featuring an indoor swimming pool and an excellent restaurant, Telegrafas. ➤ www.kempinski.com Located beneath a quiet archway on Didzioj Street in central Vilnius, surrounded by funky boutiques and trendy cafés, Hotel Pacai is housed within a famous heritage building and stylishly fuses 17th century Baroque grandeur with modern day luxuries. Skillfully converted by local architect Saulius Mikštas, the former mansion of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania is home to just over one hundred rooms of varying sizes, all featuring beds draped in white linens and beautiful marble bathrooms stocked ➤ with Molton Brown amenities. ➤ www.hotelpacai.com

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Clockwise from left: Exquisite period building; Hotel Pacai; Grand Hotel Kmpinsky

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Meander the colourful streets

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CITY FOCUS VILNIUS From left to right: Medival old town; Exquisite period building; Capelinai

WHEREVER YOU DECIDE TO REST YOUR HEAD, Vilnius’ medieval old town is the best place to begin exploring the Lithuanian capital. Dating back to Neolithic times and gaining minence in the 13th - 15th centuries as the Duchy of Lithuania, the area is one of the largest surviving and best preserved medieval old towns in Northern Europe and a UNESCO world heritage site.Exquisite period buildings of gothic, renaissance, baroque and neoclassical architectural heritage line cobbled lanes and bright open squares, bestowing a dreamy air of storybook magic throughout. This unique charm is best enjoyed by turning off Google Maps, getting a little lost and gently soaking up the theatre of the place. Meander the colourful streets looking out for flamboyant gothic churches and stately orthodox cathedrals, before stopping to sample the wholesome flavours of traditional Lithuanian cuisine at an unpretentious local eatery such as Busi Trecias. A family-owned brewery cum bar, here you can sample Lithuania’s national dish of cepelinai (hearty, filled, zeppelin-shaped potato dumplings), and Lithuanian cold borscht served in the warmer months, šaltibaršciai. @busi_trecias Lithuanian food can be heavy, so work off any post-prandial slump with a hike up the 193 wooden steps of the freestanding

bell tower of St. John’s Church. Its observation platform is the highest vantage point in the old town and offers wonderful, uninterrupted views across a tapestry of red rooftops punctuated by spires, turrets and steeples of assorted shapes and sizes. HISTORY AND CULTURE MAY EMANATE FROM Vilnius’ old town but fun and energy positively pulsate from its buzzing nightlife scene. Toast your first night in Vilnius with a glass of something sparkling at Bubbles champagne bar, where a grown-up crowd drinks crisp fizz and enjoys a snack or two in sophisticated, unstuffy surroundings. @thebubbles. champagneria Meanwhile, weather permitting, the Botanist’s cosy patio garden is a delightful place to pit stop for a drink in the heart of the old town, and its impressive roster of gin-based cocktails will undoubtedly keep you satiated. @botanistkiemelis While many of the city’s watering holes serve a decent selection of snacks, Lithuania’s chefs create gastronomic miracles out of the simplest locally grown produce, and Vilnius’ restaurants are reimagining and revolutionising the country’s dining scene. Fuelled by a bevy of talented local chefs, freshly back from stints at ➤

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Michelin-starred establishments overseas, a recent burst of culinary innovation was punctuated by the opening of some exciting new venues. Run by much celebrated chef Matas Paulinas, all the ingredients that make their way onto the dishes on Nineteen18 menu’ hail from the restaurant’s farm. Here, a focus on seasonal organic ingredients and traditional Lithuanian culinary principles are deftly combined to create an unforgettable, almost conceptual dining experience. ➤ www.nineteen18.lt LAVISHED WITH GLOBAL PRAISE, OLD TOWN restaurant Ertlio Namas has repeatedly been voted the city’s most hospitable, and its menu – conceptualised by chef patron Tomas Rimvydis – is quite possibly one of the most meticulously researched in the country. Changing six times per year, the four-course degustation menu is excellent value at EUR 35. Add paired wines for an extra EUR 20. ➤ www.ertlionamas.lt Of Vilnius’ premium gastronomic venues, the fine dining crown must surely go to Amandus, where eating is not only an art form and a performance but also a science. Opened in 2017 by Noma alumnus Deivydas Praspaliauskas, the restaurant is located in Artagonist boutique hotel, itself a destination for its contemporary art. Praspaliauskas’ forte is his degustation menus, that show-off his theatrical presentation skills before unexpected flavour combinations dance across diners’ tastebuds. ➤ www.amandus.lt End your first night in Vilnius with a digestif at King & Mouse. Tucked away on the capital’s shortest and narrowest street, this little whisky bar boasts a collection of more than 250, together with dozens of craft beers. Just like its alluringly entrance lit with fairy lights, the bar itself is cosy and convivial and the perfect spot to take a load off and feel the city’s local ➤

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Clockwise from left: Nineteen18; King & Mouse; Amandus; Tomas Rimvydis

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MO Museum

groove. ➤ www.kingandmouse.lt IF YOU NEED AN ANTIDOTE TO A LATE NIGHT OUT, indulge in a hearty breakfast of body and soul food at The Urban Garden – a hip, little joint with funky interiors and a satiating menu of wholesome vegan and vegetarian brunch staples. Think homemade granolas, smoothie bowls and sourdough toasts topped with creamy avocado and egg. @theurbangardenlt

MO Museum

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JUST AROUND THE CORNER, THE OPENING OF Lithuania’s MO museum of contemporary art in 2018 was a cultural milestone for the city of Vilnius, not to mention the nation. Designed by celebrated architect Daniel Libeskind and commissioned by Lithuanian philanthropists Danguolė and Viktoras Butkus, this striking, world-class institution showcases local modern works, explores its links with the global art scene and has already become an icon of a culturally reinvigorated city. Indeed, no visit to Vilnius is complete without dropping into this architectural wonder for a few hours of culture. And whilst the building itself is undeniably photogenic, the intimate yet impressive collection of Lithuanian works that hangs inside is just as appealing. ➤ www.mo.lt Adjacent to the museum, MO’s beautifully laid-out sculpture garden, tended to by volunteer gardeners, is a serene spot to

CITY FOCUS VILNIUS

pause for breath while enjoying a variety of eye-catching works, including “Gorilla Hand” (2019) by Lithuanian sculptor Donatas Jankauskas, also-known-as Duonis. This convivial little garden acts as something of a precursor for the street art that permeates many of Vilnius’ unassuming alleyways, neighbourhood squares and vacant walls. In fact, this underlying air of creative freedom and artistic expression is part of what make the city so cutting-edge. Scratch beneath its shiny, medieval surface and an alternative and cool yet effortlessly unpretentious vibe is palpable. SEPARATED FROM THE REST OF THE CITY BY THE river Vilnele, Užupis is one of the smallest republics in the world, covering less than one square kilometre. A self-declared micronation with its own president, currency and constitution, Užupis is an eclectic juxtaposition of renegade defiance, artistic flair and Soviet Bloc architecture. Following the fall of the USSR, numerous plinths that were previously crowned with statues of Soviet icons stood empty across the city. In 1995, a group of local artists erected a statue of US rock icon Frank Zappa atop one of them, as a symbol of freedom and a call to democracy. Two years later, they went a step further by declaring the neighbourhood independent from the rest of Lithuania. Today, the bohemian area is enlivened by an array of street art that decorates its streets and public spaces and once a year, on 1st April, travellers can get their passports stamped as they cross the bridge into Užupis. ➤

From right clockwise: Frank Zappa; Hang inside; Sculpture garden; Bohemian area

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From left to right: De’Žavu; SAVVA

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From right to left: Trakai castle; Kibinai

vintage charm, an exclusive range of pieces made from rescued and upcycled fabrics is available at Šarka. @sarka.daiktu.keliones

While spotting street art offers the perfect opportunity to surf Vilnius’ rich undercurrent of subcultures, do keep an eye out for another of its avant-garde facets as you explore the city: vintage shops. As a result of Vilnius’ newfound zeal for vintage fashion, a crop of rather good boutiques has recently sprouted up around the city. Vintage treasure hunters should absolutely not miss SAVVA – a dense jungle of sequins, jacquards, tassels and feathers, all crammed into a tiny space on a side street close to MO Museum. This eclectic collection of preloved designer labels, costume pieces and boho-chic must-haves is expertly curated by the shop’s equally eccentric owner, Andrej Prociv, who wafts around the crowded space in theatrical style. @savvastyle But Vilnius’ cachet as a vintage fashion haven is not being upheld by SAVVA alone, for other second-hand shops with street cred include De’Žavu ( @dezavu_boutique), where the superb collection of garments is in such good condition that they look new; achingly hip Textale, tucked away in a converted loft space in trendy Naujamiestis neighbourhood ( @textale.lt) and, oozing old-school

VILNIUS’ SNUG SIZE MAKES A DAY TRIP OUT OF the city a feasible option, even on a short stay itinerary, and just a short train ride outside the capital lies one of Lithuania’s must-see destinations: picturesque Trakai Castle. Floating on an island in the middle of Lake Galve and vying for attention with the stunning landscape surrounding it, the imposing 14th century Gothic-style redbrick castle is steeped in architectural, cultural and political history, having served as a royal residence as well as a bastion of defence in its colourful past. Today, the restored ruins of Trakai Castle (which now house an excellent museum), are accessible via a wooden footbridge from the mainland. Another popular way to take in the fairytale-like views is from the water, when the lake is not frozen over. The pretty adjoining town of Trakai itself is also worth exploring, where you must try a minced mutton and onion-filled kibinai pastry before heading back to Vilnius. FOR YOUR LAST NIGHT ON THE TOWN, HEAD to Peronas, close to the main train station. Frequently namechecked as the one of the coolest bars in Vilnius, the venue is dominated by a giant sculpture of Tony Soprano looming patriarchally in his dressing gown. Breathing life into a once-abandoned warehouse, this popular local haunt ➤

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has a gritty industrial edge, with upcycled train carriage chairs and tables right on the tracks and some excellent craft beers on tap. @barasperonas The effortless cool factor that Peronas exudes by the bucket load is representative of the entire Naujamiestis district encircling the station, which has recently blossomed into a happening, alternative neighbourhood. Quirky bars, cafés and shops have popped-up and eye-catching street art now adorns many buildings, including the enormous “Freedom” mural by Italian street artist MILLO, located opposite Hale Turgaviete food market. ➤ www.halesturgaviete.lt NOT ALL ICONIC STREET ART LASTS THE TEST OF TIME though, as was seen with the infamous “Make Everything Great Again” mural by artist Mindaugas Bonanu that was once located on the corner of Pylimo Street. Before being painted over in early 2019, the mural depicted former US president Donald Trump passionately locking lips with incumbent Russian leader Vladimir Putin. While the original mural gained international attention for its ironic political statement, the bar next door to its former location today boasts some pretty impressive street art of its own. Painted on an exposed redbrick wall above the leafy green beer terrace at Vijokliai Beer Garden, looms a giant yellow figure with a Lithuanian grandfather in his right hand. The figure is characteristic of the signature style of Os Gemeos – the famous, twin Brazilian street artists who created it. The bar itself – with its selection of rare local craft beers on tap and eccentric interior – is an ideal place to draw your Vilnius getaway to a close. @vijokliai_beer_garden VILNIUS MAY LOOK LIKE THE QUINTESSENTIAL BALTIC capital – seemingly frozen in time courtesy of a plethora of architectural splendors lining its cobbled lanes – but don’t let this prim and proper aesthetic fool you. For the Lithuanian capital is no time-capsule when it comes to attitude and innovation and a thriving bohemian underbelly, together with cuttingedge artistic momentum and exciting dining and nightlife offerings, make Vilnius pretty much as cool as they come.

Peronas

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king of the castle 62

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AN ODE TO SCOTLAND’S DESIGN H E R I TA G E A N D T H E B E AU T Y O F I T S L A N D S CA P E , J O E M O R T I M E R C H E C K S I N T O E D I N BU R G H ’ S LARGEST AND MOST SUMPTUOUS HOTEL SUITE

suite envy ➤ SCONE & CROMBIE SUITE

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANN MARIE WILKINS, GAVIN BOND

T H E B A L M O R A L, E D I N B U R G H

DINBURGH’S SKYLINE IS punctuated with architectural exclamations that tell the story of this ancient capital; a staccato of gothic steeples and neoclassical domes overlooked by the hulking mass of Edinburgh Castle, which stands vigil over the city. From the castle ramparts, it is reassuring to spot the mighty clock tower of The Balmoral, which stands tall above its neighbours, pinpointing the location of one of Edinburgh’s oldest and most prestigious hotels: my home for two nights in the summer of 2020, during what should have been Edinburgh Festival Fringe week. Though the festival, like everything else last year, was scuppered by Covid-19, Edinburgh retained a sense of occasion. At the far end of Princes Street, the wide boulevard that splits the city in two – the winding alleyways and cobbled streets of Old Town to the south and the Georgian façades of New Town to the north – The Balmoral is at the very heart of the action. ➤

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BUILT AT THE END OF THE 19TH CENTURY ACCORDING to designs by Edinburgh architects W. Hamilton Beattie and A.R. Scott, the hotel was intended to provide luxurious lodgings for railway passengers visiting the city via Waverley Station. The Balmoral opened in 1902 as the North British Station Hotel, featuring a soaring clock tower that was intentionally set three minutes fast to make passengers arrive in time for their trains. Purchased by Sir Rocco Forte on 1st March 1997, the hotel became the first member of what is now Rocco Forte Hotels and remains the grandest dame in the collection. Approaching along Princes Street, the hotel cuts a fine figure. Columns and balustrades line its Baronial façade, and its grand entrance is garlanded with fresh flowers when I arrive, just a few days after the hotel reopened after the summer lockdown. Staff are already kitted out with custom-made Balmoral facemasks, and there’s a celebratory air as if, at long last, things are starting to get back to normal. The Balmoral exudes a sense of dignity and gravitas, nowhere more so than in the hallowed surrounds of the Scone & Crombie Suite, an elegant collection of well-appointed rooms that spans a long section of the south-facing side of the building. Looking out across the covered roof of Waverley Station towards the steep, blackened walls of the Old Town, suite 230 is named after Scone Palace in Perthshire, a 1,500-year-old monument where Scottish kings were once crowned. Like its namesake, the suite is truly fit for royalty. American talk show queen Oprah ➤

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SOFITEL LEGEND THE GRAND AMSTERDAM FIVE-STAR LUXURY IN A UNIQUE HISTORICAL AMBIANCE Sotel Legend The Grand Amsterdam offers ve-star luxury in a unique historical ambiance. Furnished with French elegance and grandeur, the hotel welcomes a variety of visitors, from the trendy Amsterdam elite to famous international movie stars. In all of the rooms and suites (including butler service), the restaurants, the halls, and the beautiful inner garden, the heritage and luxury of this opulent landmark will charm all who visit. Over the course of the centuries, this exquisite Amsterdam landmark has been ripened and enriched by countless special events and, during the process, has also acquired tremendous culinary fame.

Chef de Cuisine Raoul Meuwese and his team invite guests to enjoy the varied selection of dishes available in our restaurant Bridges, in Oriole and on our awarded Garden Terrace. Our traditional

Dutch

brown

café,

The

Flying

Dutchman,

serves

a wide assortment of Dutch and local Amsterdam beers and local delicacies, while our Library ‘Or’ is the ideal place to order The Grand Afternoon Tea. The Sotel SPA is the ideal place to unwind; pamper yourself with a beauty treatment or relax in our hammam or steambath after having had a few laps in our pool.

Soﬁtel Legend The Grand Amsterdam - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 - 1012 EX Amsterdam T +31(0)20 555 31 11 - www.soﬁtel-legend-thegrand.com

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Winfrey interviewed one-time Edinburgh resident J.K. Rowling here in 2010 and, through the ages, heads of state, members of royal households and Hollywood doyennes such as Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor have bedded down within its high storied walls. A sumptuous dining room clad in rich, tapestry-style wallpaper welcomes visitors into this presidential abode; a room that’s soon to be the scene of long, languorous breakfasts set to the backdrop of brooding skies above the castle. Named Devonshire Swans, this custom-made wall covering by Watts of Westminster immediately puts one in the mood of a grand country palace or a royal museum; a tribute to the Victorian grandeur of the building and a fitting introduction to this opulent suite. Next door, double-height ceilings with elaborately carved cornices tower above the main living room, which is dressed in duck egg blue walls and complementary soft furnishings selected by Rocco Forte Hotels director of design Olga Polizzi – Sir Rocco’s sister – whose discerning touch and attentive eye are evident in each of the group’s hotels. The blue walls and white ceilings call to mind the great lochs and rivers that stretch across the Scottish

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countryside, and the wild North Sea and Atlantic beaches that ring its endless coasts. Mild August weather during my stay meant that there was no need to light a fire in the rather magnificent fireplace, but a handsome collection of art – Hermes scarf prints, that Polizzi bought at the Battersea Art Fair and had framed in Edinburgh – and hardback books on Scottish heritage and literature were sufficient to keep me ensconced in the emerald green brushed velvet armchairs, with a warming glass of single malt for long enough to soak in the regal splendour of the suite. DELVING DEEPER INTO THIS LAVISH ABODE, one arrives at the master bedroom, where mustard yellow walls evoking the wild gorse that carpets the Scottish Highlands frame two windows, through which the occasional burst of sunlight pours in. A lavish bed takes centre stage, with colourful embroidered bedding and headboard by Royal Warrant holder GP & J Baker, and a pair of straight-backed armchairs reupholstered in teal and blue patterned fabric by Colefax & Fowler sit in front of another open fireplace. Prints depicting the natural ➤

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world surround a gilded mirror above the fireplace, and a snug writing desk provides the perfect spot to catch up on postcards when the weather turns foul, which it inevitable will on a typical trip to Edinburgh. An enormous bathroom clad in generous quantities of Italian marble and mosaic, with a freestanding bathtub and Asprey and Irene Forte Skincare products, completes the suite’s collection of formal rooms, though the walk-in wardrobe would count as a room in its own right in a lesser setting. The suite can be extended to include two further bedrooms, one at either end, to create a mighty threebedroom apartment. But at 120 square metres, it’s already the largest one-bedroom suite in Edinburgh and an ideal urban escape for lairds and ladies visiting this magnificent capital. In a grand dame hotel like The Balmoral, which means ‘majestic dwelling’ in Gaelic, it’s not just the hardware that

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makes an impression. The concierge team, smartly dressed in gorse green and heather purple Balmoral Hotel Tartan – reflecting the colours of the Scottish landscape – and Hamilton and Inches cufflinks, have ways of opening doors that appear inaccessible to mere mortals. Though tickets to Edinburgh Castle were long sold out when I checked-in (visitor numbers had been significantly reduced for social distancing purposes) it took the team no more than a couple of minutes to procure a ticket and secure a spot for me, the following morning. Not that I would encourage anyone to leave this exceedingly comfortable property. Lunchtimes can be whiled away savouring the modern French fare at Brasserie Prince, an elegant eatery designed in partnership with Swedish interior architect Martin Brudnizki in 2018. Here, bistro style dishes are prepared using fresh Scottish produce – think delicately smoked North Sea halibut to start, followed by Aberdeenshire ribeye steak frites and crunchy watercress salad – and ➤

A L I F E S T Y L E LU X U R Y C O V E N T G A R D E N H OT E L , R E S TA U R A N T A N D B A R

Immerse yourself in the soul of the city

“

In music, a middle eight injects variety into a song; it lifts the composition by changing key or tempo. Our hotel does the same. It adds to the vibrant, bustling nature of Covent Garden and offers something new and exciting whilst still feeling very much part of the neighbourhood. For those who expect luxury and care about how it’s delivered.

MIDDLEEIGHT.COM

66 Great Queen Street, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5BX T: 020 7309 9300 | E: hello@middleeight.com Facebook | Instagram | LinkedIn

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the hotel maintains close relationships with a collection of artisanal suppliers specialising in everything from fresh and smoked seafood to creamy local cheeses. OVERINDULGENCE CAN BE OFFSET with a brisk walk up Calton Hill, which rises up from street level via a steep flight of steps a few hundred metres from the hotel entrance, affording panoramic views of the city from one of its most iconic viewpoints. For a more strenuous endeavour, sure-footed visitors can tackle the steep scramble up Arthur’s Seat, the

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remains of an ancient volcano that looms over the city; a spot that’s particularly rewarding near sunset, when Edinburgh is bathed in a golden light that coves the steeples and rooftops as far as the eye can see. Come evening, head chef Mark Donald wows diners with modern Scottish fare in Michelin-starred restaurant Number One, and there are more than 500 labels available at Scotch, the hotel’s snug whisky bar, where guests and locals alike gather to enjoy a wee dram of Scotland’s finest export, or a guided tasting under

the tutelage of one of The Balmoral’s Whisky Ambassadors. While the Scone & Crombie Suite is outwardly a tribute to Scottish craftsmanship and tradition, it is also an homage to the wild landscapes that make this country so dramatically unique. For cultured travellers visiting this historic, medieval city, the suite’s interplay of lavish furnishings, rich fabrics and natural motifs come together in glorious unison to make it a quintessentially plush Scottish abode, with roots planted firmly in Edinburgh.

A night in the Scone & Crombie Suite at The Balmoral starts at GBP 4,000 including breakfast and taxes. ➤ www.roccofortehotels.com

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the queen of LIVERPOOL

➤ UNITED

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KINGDOM

DEST INAT I O N

S P OT L I G H T

f the mersey

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU DROPS ANCHOR IN N O R T H W E S T E N G L A N D ’ S C H A R I S M AT I C M A R I T I M E C I T Y, R E N OW N E D F O R I T S C H A R M I N G P E O P L E , S T R I K I N G ARCHITECTURE AND FLOURISHING FOOD SCENE

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HE EFFECTS OF THE VIRUS pandemic have spread far-and-wide and forced many of us to drastically rethink our vacations this year. For those who crave a relatively local city break with a hefty dose of culture, post lockdown (of course), look no further than England’s historic maritime city in the northwest of the nation, where the River Mersey meets the Irish Sea. A key trade and migration port from the 18th to the early 20th centuries and famously The Beatles’ hometown, Liverpool celebrated its eight hundredth birthday in 2007 and was named a European Capital of Culture the following year. This very public opportunity to showcase its cultural life and development marked the veritable rebirth of this characterful metropolis, and Liverpool deftly used its Capital of Culture status to completely transform its fan base, not to mention the way in which the city was communicated internationally. As a result, the city’s restaurant, nightlife and tourist industries also blossomed, creating a fascinating and well-rounded cultural destination which holds its own internationally and makes for a colourful city break.

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S P OT L I G H T LIVERPOOL

A British powerhouse of architecture, art, culture and music, pre-pandemic Liverpool was thriving like never before, and there’s no reason why this charming city won’t pickup from where it left off, thanks in large part to its unique people, otherwise known as scousers. Distinctly proud of their cultural heritage, the people of Liverpool love to share their life stories and talk about their hometown, and this inextricably connects visitors to the city in a uniquely genuine way, usually from the get-go. I’LL NEVER FORGET MY FIRST VISIT TO LIVERPOOL. After I disembarked a two-hour train ride at Lime Street station, within minutes of getting in his taxi, the driver shared intimate details of his daughter’s love life! But whether it’s a Liverpool cabbie or the owner of a Georgian tearoom, it doesn’t take long to feel the spirit of Liverpool’s genuinely hospitable people. Scousers are honest, happy-golucky types and they’re welcoming to all. But where to start? From Liverpool to Blackpool and the Lake District, the city’s second-tallest building offers spectacular, panoramic views across Merseyside, Wirral and North Wales and is the perfect place to orientate oneself. Originally designed to be a chimney, St Johns Beacon’s 360-degree viewing gallery towers above the heart of Liverpool, so start your visit here. ➤ www.stjohnsbeacon.co.uk Boasting the most museums in the UK outside of London and the largest amount of Grade I listed buildings in the country, the jewel in Liverpool’s UNESCO World Heritage crown is undoubtedly St. George’s Quarter. Brimming with some of the finest Victorian architecture in the country, together with a variety of museums which are free to enter and offer exhibitions that vary from classical and contemporary to controversial and downright crazy, this is the place to absorb some culture. ➤ www.stgeorgesquarter.org THE HAPPENING HEART OF LIVERPOOL’S HISTORIC World Heritage waterfront, and another of the city’s cultural and hospitality hotspots is the picturesque Albert Dock complex. Home to a multitude of museums, ➤ Clockwise from top left: St. George’s Hall; Albert Dock; St. Johns Beacon; St. George’s Quarter T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

galleries, restaurants, bars, shops and boutiques, Albert Dock blends the old with new in a modern yet affably attractive style. An afternoon or even a full day can easily be spent in this fashionable part of the city, at the epicentre of which is Tate Liverpool. ➤ www.albertdock.com Since opening in 1988, Tate Liverpool has become one of the most visited art galleries outside of London. Today, it is the home of British and international modern and contemporary art in the North of England. Housed in one of Albert Dock’s former warehouses, the museum contains four floors of public galleries, a very palatable café and a good gift shop. Past artists showcased include Gustav Klimt, Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol, and the museum’s special exhibition programme, presented on the fourth floor, regularly brings together works from national and international collections. The wonderful views across the Mersey from Tate Liverpool’s top floor are a hidden treat! ➤ www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-liverpool Liverpool’s most famous international export is undoubtedly The Beatles. Utter the city’s name to almost anyone around the world and they will probably mention Paul, George, Ringo and John. Hence, no visit to Liverpool is really complete without a trip to the world’s largest permanent exhibition entirely devoted to telling the story of The Beatles’ rise to fame. located in Albert Dock, the award-winning Beatles Story takes visitors on an immersive journey through the lives, times and music of probably the

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world’s most famous band. ➤ www.beatlesstory.com THE EASY WALK FROM ALBERT DOCK TO Liverpool’s beautiful Georgian Quarter is just over a mile and will take you through some back streets as well as the bohemian Ropewalks area of the city. A cultural hub for independent shops, restaurants, bars and galleries, its name is derived from the craft of ropemaking for sailing ships that dominated the area until the 19th century. ➤ www.liverpoolropewalks.co.uk While in the area, make a pit stop at Bluecoat, which offers a year-round programme of visual art, literature, music, dance and family activities out of a beautiful 300-year-old building. ➤ www.thebluecoat.org.uk Also in Ropewalks is FACT, one of the country’s most foremost galleries showcasing everything in film, video and new media. Often with thought provoking themes, exhibitions at FACT are conceptualised by a range of international artists, so it’s worth seeing what’s on while you’re in town. ➤ www.fact.co.uk A VALUABLE LEGACY OF THE CITY’S FORMER wealth and featuring one of the largest collections of terraced Georgian town houses outside London, treading the cobbled streets of Liverpool’s picturesque Georgian Quarter is to uncover a different story at every turn. Unsurprisingly, the Georgian Quarter has become a hotspot for production companies filming everything from Hollywood blockbusters

S P OT L I G H T LIVERPOOL

Clockwise from top left: Tate Liverpool ; Bluecoat; Gerorgian Quarter; FACT

to TV dramas against the backdrop of its gorgeous buildings. Start at Rodney Street – once the favoured domain of Liverpool’s elite merchants – then venture towards Hope Street, winner of the Academy of Urbanism award for ‘Best Street’. Be sure to drop into The Philharmonic Dining Rooms at 36 Hope Street, famous for being one of the most lavish and ornate pubs in the country. Commissioned between 1898 and 1900, “The Phil” is a showpiece hostelry in the style of a gentlemen’s club and a magnificent place to pause for a pint. ➤ www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk After Hope Street, make your way towards Faulkner Square to seek out eccentric Peter Kavanagh’s at 2 Egerton Street, one of the city’s most famous bijou boozers. @peterkavanaghs If you have time, pass by neo-classical St Bride’s on Percy Street – the beautiful Liverpool church which feeds more people now than in the days of the Victorian workhouse. The beauty of Liverpool’s Georgian Quarter is that, even if you veer off the beaten track, you will almost always find hidden treasure. DOMINATING THE SKYLINE AT ONE END OF HOPE Street is Liverpool Cathedral, one of two great places of worship in the city, both of which are worth visiting. Completed in 1978 and containing around 1,700 square metres of stained glass, Liverpool Cathedral took seventyfour years to build. It is Britain’s biggest cathedral, the largest Anglican cathedral in Europe and the fifth largest in the world. Two lifts and over one hundred stairs will get you to the top of its Vestey Tower, from which you will enjoy spectacular views across the city. ➤ www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk At the other end of Hope Street, the contrasting Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral is another of the city’s magnificent landmarks. This dramatic icon of faith, architecture and human endeavour is impressive in both scale and design, ➤

Philharmonic Dining Rooms

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and Metropolitan Cathedral regularly hosts cultural events including music concerts and recitals. Its scrummy oncemonthly Sunday cream teas are a bargain and all monies raised go to the cathedral. ➤ www.liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk LIVERPOOL OFFERS A WIDE VARIETY OF accommodation to suit every taste and budget. From themed hotels and international brands to boutique properties and bijou guest houses, there are numerous places to rest one’s head. But if you want to wake-up to glorious river views, you really need to stay at Titanic. Housed within a red brick, iron and steel Grade II listed 19th century former rum warehouse in Stanley Dock, slightly adrift from the city’s main hubs, a few miles downstream from Albert Dock, Titanic is brimming with industrialchic glamour and offers a very different type of hospitality experience to Liverpool’s city centre hotels. All of Titanic’s 153 rooms and suites offer the paredback appeal of a city loft apartment, with red brick vaulted ceilings, exposed pipework and pale grey walls, and the

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Liverpools historic waterfront

smallest is a whopping 56 square metres. Request a dual aspect corner room on the fourth (top) floor, with windows towards abandoned 14-storey Tobacco Warehouse next door, and you’ll open your curtains to the River Mersey in the morning. ➤ www.titanichotelliverpool.com AS ONE MOVES AROUND LIVERPOOL IT IS impossible not to notice the city’s striking architecture, much of which tells its own story. Defining the city’s dramatic skyline and dominating Liverpool’s historic waterfront is a collection of three buildings which have come to be known collectively as The Three Graces; the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building. These majestic buildings were conceived and constructed in the early 1900s as visible symbols of Liverpool’s international prestige. They remain a focal point of the city’s heritage more than a century later. The Royal Liver Building is probably the city’s most wellknown structure and a signature landmark of Liverpool. It is adorned by two copper “liver birds”, each of which stands 18-feet tall with a 24-foot wingspan. One looks out to sea, to guide boats safely into port, while the other keeps a watchful eye on the city, protecting its citizens. Legend has it that if the two birds ever face each other, Liverpool will cease to exist. The mythical liver bird is Liverpool’s emblem and you’ll see it on many buildings across the city. ➤ www.rlb360.com

Clockwise from bottom left: Royal Liver Building; Titanic Hotel; Liverpool’s historic waterfront; Shiverpool

THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO TOUR A NEW destination or get a feel for a city, but few offer the experience of multi award-winning Shiverpool. Throw away your Liverpool guidebook and give the open-top bus a miss. Instead, book a Shiverpool tour and be chased down an ➤

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alleyway in the dark of night by a ghastly ghoul with a shovel! Shiverpool is an utterly unique interactive storytelling experience, blending street theatre, dark humour and sinister tales to reveal Liverpool’s culture, hidden mysteries and supernatural secrets. Choose between two Shiverpool tours – “The Hope Street Shivers” and “Auld City & The Dead House” – and prepare yourself for a terrifying but highly entertaining finale. ➤ www.shiverpool.co.uk LIVERPUDLIANS KNOW A THING OR TWO ABOUT how to dine and drink and it’s rare that you’ll see a local shying away from a bevvy (or three), a good slap-up meal or the opportunity to party. For starters, you simply must sample the city’s fine gin. A premium spirit, made from scratch in hand beaten copper stills in the heart of the city using only certified organic botanicals, Liverpool Gin is a distinctive, complex and aromatic gin with a bright citrus finish. Try the Rose Petal variation for a special G&T with a fragrant, almost romantic nose. ➤ www.liverpoolgin.com To punctuate a Liverpool weekend in style, head up to Panoramic 34 – 100 metres above sea level on the thirtyfourth floor of West Tower – and watch the sun set over the city’s magnificent skyline, with the Royal Liver Building practically within touching distance. ➤ www.panoramic34.com Back on terra firma, The Alchemist and Neighbourhood consistently serve some of the city’s best, handcrafted cocktails, in glamorous and happening surroundings. ➤ www.thealchemist.uk.com ➤ www.neighbourhoodrestaurant.co.uk.

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Meanwhile, Ma Boyle’s is a historic public house dating back to 1870, presided over by charming staff, serving a selection of local ales and delicious home-cooked food. ➤ www.maboylesliverpool.com THE RESTAURANT SCENE IN LIVERPOOL HAS exploded in the past decade and now offers a complete British culinary journey, sufficient to satiate even the most discerning of palates. In fact, Liverpool’s blossoming foodie scene puts many other British cities to shame. From independent street food to traditional local dishes, modern British fare and top-end fine dining, Liverpool offers a vast range of places to eat which cater to every pocket and appetite. Making the most of the fine local produce and seasonal ingredients available in and around Liverpool, renowned chef Paul Askew’s celebrated Art School restaurant almost certainly provides the city’s premium dining experience. Set in what was once the stunning lantern room of the 1888 Victorian Home for Destitute Children building on Sugnall Street, to dine here is to be treated to the best food the city has to offer, complemented by a superb wine list and exemplary service. Don’t miss the subterranean Art School Cellars, which is perfect for a pre-theatre drink or post dinner nightcap. ➤ www.theartschoolrestaurant.co.uk

The Art School Restaurant

AWASH WITH SO MANY CULTURAL HIGHPOINTS and architectural marvels, it would be hard to make a short list of what makes Liverpool so unique. It simply oozes ample reasons to visit. Intensely steeped in history and infused with artistic creativeness, few people are not in some way captivated by Liverpool’s genuine charms. A metropolitan jewel of northwest England, its warm people and glorious buildings are just two of Liverpool’s many gems, and 2021 is the year to discover them all. ➤ www.visitliverpool.com

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THE TALENTED SINGER AND FRONT WOMAN OF ACCLAIMED BRITISH BAND MORCHEEBA TALKS ABOUT TWENTY-FIVE YEARS IN THE BUSINESS, JUGGLING A MUSIC CAREER AND LARGE FAMILY, AND HER INVOLVEMENT IN INSPIRATIONAL ALBUM GOOD NIGHT SONGS FOR REBEL GIRLS.

MINUTES WITH

skye edwards After twenty-five years in the business, are you still loving what you do? I positively love what I do. Before being in Morcheeba, I’d only ever been to Calais and Athens on school trips. I know it’s an absolute privilege to be able to travel and sing all over the world. I appreciate it more as I get older. It’s especially exciting visiting a new country for the first time. Who influenced you musically in your formative years? In our house, Radio 1 was always on in the mornings. I’d record my favourite songs on cassette, trying to hit pause before the DJ would cut in, be it Ah-Ha’s Take On Me or Whitney Houston singing Saving All My Love. The vinyl would come out at the weekends. I was fostered at the age of six weeks to white parents in their late forties who loved country music, including songs like Different Drum by Linda Ronstadt and Ruby by Kenny Rogers. I remember seeing

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Shirley Bassey on TV and thinking that she was incredible! I was blown away by her voice and sparkly dresses. I always return to her and the country music. Did you always want to be a singer or be part of a band? At the age of twenty, I studied fashion design, textiles and embroidery at the London College of Fashion and had hopes of becoming a fashion designer. Fate took me on a different journey when I met Ross at a party in Greenwich in the summer of 1994. He and his brother were looking for a singer. My boyfriend (who I met at the same party) told them I could sing. And the rest, as they say, is history. Apparently, you make your own stage costumes? I do indeed. My dream of becoming a fashion designer kind of came true as I design and sew all of my stage outfits. I’ve a little sewing room at home that doubles up as the singing booth when I record vocals. It’s full of trimmings, threads

and rolls of fabric. It’s nearly always messy, but I’ve read that a messy desk encourages a creative mind and so I go with that! I like to make a new collection for each album. Since I always get asked about my outfits, my husband says that I should photograph all the dresses I’ve made and compile a book. Tell us about Morcheeba now that Paul Godfrey is no longer part of the band? Paul left the group in 2014, so it’s now just Ross

and I. Ross is a multi-instrumentalist and producer and I write the melodies and lyrics. We work really well as a duo and are on the same page musically. Released in 2018, Blaze Away was the first Morcheeba album not to have involved Paul. It features blues, jazz, downtempo, country and electronica in its ten tracks, so what type of band would you say Morcheeba is today? A customer review on Amazon once described us as “Folk rock - sometimes downtempo soul but often with a twist or twang and buzz of psychedelic guitar”. Because we have always crossed so many different genres, I’ve always struggled to categorise our music. When anyone asks, I usually write down the name Morcheeba and tell them to look us up on YouTube! Coronavirus has had a huge effect on the music industry, with concerts and shows cancelled or postponed around the globe. How has the pandemic affected you personally? Being in a band, we can sometimes spend weeks or months at home in between touring, so we know how to make the most of that time. I’ve been eating healthily, exercising and getting into a good sleep routine. We have also recorded a new Morcheeba album (out soon) which definitely helped to pass the time. Having said that, half of my life is missing. We’re so used to travelling and performing, because it’s what we’ve done consistently for the last two and a half decades, playing up to 80 shows a year, including TV and radio performances. So, it has been weird to be grounded for so long. What did you do while locked-down? My husband gave me a cello for my birthday last year and so, with the help of Skype lessons and YouTube clips, I learnt how to play it. I’d always wanted to play this gorgeous instrument but never had the time. Since all Morcheeba gigs were cancelled last year, I was able to dedicate time to cello lessons. Balancing a large family and a career in music can’t be easy, especially when it comes to playing festivals.How do you do it? It was relatively easy when they were babies and could come with me. It got harder as they reached schooling age.

There’s a lot of guilt involved in being a working mum, especially when you have to be away from home for weeks at a time. Ross now has kids, so we both agree not to be away for longer than two weeks and spend plenty of time at home in between tour dates. Summer festivals that fall on weekends and during the school holidays are the best, since we can take the kids with us, especially if we have a tour bus or we are performing in the UK. Featuring tracks performed by you, Macy Gray, Anastacia and the legendary Joan Jett, amongst others, tell us about your involvement in Good Night Songs for Rebel Girls? I love the positive, inspirational message of the Good Night Stories and was very excited to be part of this project. When it came to deciding a track to cover, I thought back to the music I was into when I was younger.The Only Way Is Up by Yazz was the very first song I bought on vinyl. I took a completely different approach, recording it acoustically. When it was played to Decca Records, A&R manager Fiona Pope said that my recording was, “truly a beautiful ode from mother to child”.

Rebel Girls is dedicated to inspiring and instilling confidence in a generation of girls around the world. Is this cause close to your heart? Being a mother of four, two of which are girls, it is a cause that I am strongly drawn to. I have a responsibility to encourage a positive attitude, not only to my daughters but also to my sons and teach them that women and girls are strong and capable of anything. It helps that we are seeing more and more prominent female figures in what are often considered male sports.

You have seen a lot of the world on your travels. What’s your all-time favourite hotel? I love staying at Hotel Unique in São Paulo. The design and shape of the rooms and hallways are very unique, with low-level ambient lighting and chic, stylish décor. The food is wonderful, from the finest steaks to delectable sushi. And the rooftop pool bar “SKYE” is named after me, because the hotel owner is a huge Morcheeba fan! Tell us about your in-flight routine? I travel with a neck pillow, eye mask, noise cancelling headphones and a silk scarf. As soon as I’m on board and in my window seat I can usually doze off. The silk scarf is to hide under, because I look ridiculous with the neck pillow, mask and headphones! Mirrored Kirk & Kirk sunglasses hide any dark circles under my eyes at destinations where fans are waiting for us when we land. What do you do to relax? I love to end my day with a long, relaxing bath since it’s a great way to unwind. I add a few drops of chamomile, patchouli and clary sage essential oils, dim the lights, pour a whisky or small glass of red and read a book on my Kindle. I can spend over an hour in the bath, topping it up with hot water. Bliss. What’s the next destination on your “hot list” just as soon as we’re allowed to travel again? I really want to see Japan. It’s a country that has eluded us as a band. It would be amazing to visit for a few weeks to experience Tokyo, then get off the beaten track into the mountains. I turn fifty in 2022 and it will be our twenty-year wedding anniversary, so this is what my husband Steve and I plan to do.

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RHODES ➤ GREECE

so much more than sun, sea and sand

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DEST INAT I O N T R AV E L L E R L OW D OW N DA N I E L L A G E O R G I O U DROPS ANCHOR ON THE L A R G E S T D O D E CA N E S E ISLAND IN THE AEGEAN SEA, LADEN WITH A R C H E O L O G I CA L TREASURES AND ANCIENT RU I N S , T O E X P L O R E I T S C U LT U R A L G E M S

OCATED NORTHEAST of Crete and Southeast of Athens, 250 kilometres from the Greek mainland, the Dodecanese comprise 12 larger and 150 smaller islands of which Rhodes is the largest. Nicknamed “The Island of the Knights” after the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem, who ruled the island from 1310 to 1522, like much of Greece, Rhodes has a fascinating history which dates back millenia. Pindar and other ancient writers detailed Rhodes in their manuscripts. The island’s origins are connected to a divine myth about Zeus and sun-god Helios. And the

island was globally famous its huge Colossus of Rhodes bronze statue of Helios, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, which stood by the entrance to the main harbour from 280 BC for five decades. Today, Rhodes offers an enticing combination of ancient history and modern style, pristine sandy beaches and soaring mountains, all contained within a relatively compact package brimming with archeological treasures and historic ruins at every turn. Indeed, it’s a wonder that more cultured travellers haven’t made this beautiful Greek gem a regular haunt, particularly given that Rhodes boasts its own international airport which is well connected to the rest of Europe, and the island offers good value for money. ➤

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OFFERING A DIFFERENT STYLE OF LUXURY compared to more showy Greek islands such as Mykonos, Rhodes is laidback, carefree and unpretentious, making it the perfect place to relax, wear what you like and forget about any stresses back home. And because there are few places in Rhodes for the super-rich to hang out, food and drink prices are not inflated, eating out doesn’t cost a fortune and even top end cuisine is reasonably priced. Rhodes is one of few Greek islands to combine a multitude of diverse cultures, with byzantine, medieval, Arabic and ottoman buildings standing side-by-side. Beautiful mosques, serene churches and elegant stone mansions make for a very appealing architectural

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landscape. Nowhere is this more evident than its spectacular medieval old town of grandiose buildings and winding cobbled streets, much of whose true beauty lies hidden in plain sight. The old town is a delightful place to intentionally lose one’s bearings and amble. I manage to get lost down the quiet, cobbled backstreets of Ippokratous and Omirou, where I chance upon a number of small shops selling beautiful antiques and exquisite woven rugs. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Eolos for refined, locally produced crafts, including illustrated ceramic bowls and gorgeous handmade jewellery. @EolosStoreRhodes Sold in many of the island’s shops, Rhodes is well known for its sweets and honey-based desserts

TRAVELLER LOW D OW N RHODES

Left: Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes

incorporating local spices and seasonal fruits. Made with sesame, almonds and honey, Melekouni is the traditional sweet of Rhodes. Thanks to its high nutritional value, it is regarded as one of the healthiest Greek snacks. BEING THE FOURTH LARGEST GREEK ISLAND in the Aegean, in order to fully explore Rhodes’ undiscovered beauty, one really must hire a car. The winding roads of the west coast, lined with pine trees, offer a multitude of breathtaking views. It is here that I am immersed in the island’s wild, peaceful and rugged charm. While in this part of the island, make a pit stop at the ancient city of Kamiros, located at the foot of Akramytis Mountain. One of Rhodes’ three large ➤

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Doric cities, a few hours spent exploring this archeological site makes for a fascinating interlude, and the panoramic views of nearby Ayios Minas beach are simply wonderful. For hearty, traditional food, head to the mountain village of Embonas, famous for its meat stewed in clay pots which will not disappoint. The highest village on the island, Embonas remains fairly untouched by tourism and the local folk are focused on keeping local crafts and traditions alive. The village is also surrounded by lush vineyards and some palatable local wines are produced using grapes grown nearby. Indeed, don’t leave this area without touring one of the small family-owned vineyards and sampling some wine. Perched on the slopes of Mount Ataviros in the heart of Rhodes’ wine region, close to Embonas, Alexandris Family Winery was founded in 1968. Family owned and now in its third generation, the vineyard’s 4 hectares are cultivated organically with great care, and its wine made from the old Athiri vines is very drinkable – delicate and fruity, with a bright green-yellow colour and a refreshing acidity, making it is the perfect companion to fresh fish. @alexandris.winery ➤

From top to bottom: Ancient Kameiros; Alexandris Family Winery; Undiscovered beauty; Meat stew

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GNTO ID 1143K015A0283800

Unveil the Legacy of a Rhodian Resort

Find out more at: sheratonrhodesresort.com Sheraton Rhodes Resort Ialyssos Avenue, Rhodes South Aegean, 85101, Greece T +30 22410 75000 info.rhodes@sheraton.com

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ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE ISLAND, WHAT MAKES Rhodes’ beaches rather special is a combination of emerald waters, golden sands and wild landscapes. If you fancy spending some quiet time by the sea, head to Ladiko Beach. Ladiko may just be just a tiny cove, but it offers everything one could possibly need for a divine beach day, including a good family-run taverna. Another small beach worth visiting is located in isolated Anthony Quinn Bay, a short distance from Ladiko, in the island’s south-east. Offering first-rate snorkeling opportunities for those who don’t wish to spend all day on a lounger, the bay is also home to one of Rhodes’ most beautiful beaches, and its tranquil waters owe their deep emerald colour to the surrounding lush-green vegetation. Anthony Quinn is mostly popular with a younger crowd, since the sharp rocks both in and out of the water can be hazardous for children and the elderly.

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Late afternoon, if you fancy a livelier atmosphere, head to Tsambika Beach for cocktails at popular Cabana Beach Bar. Here you can carry on into the night to a backdrop of funky DJ sounds. Alternatively, close to the old town, Elias Beach has a great selection of beach bars playing quality chill out music. The atmosphere here is more uplifting than relaxing. Post sun-worshipping, Ronda on Elli Beach offers a bouncy ambiance and superb service. Numerous über-stylish sunbeds line the beach in front of Ronda, where you can enjoy a tasty sushi platter while sipping expertly prepared cocktails, or grab a table in Ronda’s restaurant and indulge in a delicious, full-on gastronomic feast. @rondarestaurantcafebar Over dinner one evening at Marco Polo Restaurant, I’m told by a fellow diner that in order to fully understand the true beauty of Rhodes, I must visit Lindos. She was not wrong. ➤

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From left to right: Ladiko beach; Ronda beach

Embonas Tavern

Lindos

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Melenos Lindos Boutique Hotel

Temple of Apollo

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A PICTURESQUE TOWN OF SMALL WHITEWASHED houses, Lindos is characterised by quaint narrow streets and alleys that twist and turn, leading to charming Greek churches and small boutiques built into stone arches. It’s a gorgeous place to while away an afternoon. The town’s standout venue is without doubt Melenos Lindos Boutique Hotel. Residents and guests alike are welcome to use the hotel’s many terraces, boasting breathtaking panoramas of the sea and Lindos’ coastline. The atmosphere throughout is chic, carefree and stylish, with women floating around in floral kaftans and Greek sandals, while men are in Panamas and loafers. ➤ www.melenoslindos.com Located at the island’s northern tip. Rhodes’ new town has a much more contemporary and refined feel by

comparison to Lindos. In the past few years, a smattering of hip bars and fashionable restaurants have opened, and a selection of upscale boutiques cater to the more jet set. Close by, on a hill overlooking Rhodes City, while few remains of the ancient Acropolis survive today, to provide an idea of its original grandeur, the site is still worth visiting before you leave the island. The four, huge remaining columns of the Temple of Apollo look particularly stunning at sunset. Whether you’re a culture vulture, oenophile or gourmand, keen on archaeology or love spending time outdoors amongst nature, or simply love the sun, sand and sea, Rhodes offers pretty much everything a seasoned traveller needs to enjoy a divine, laidback, Greek island sojourn without breaking the bank.

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BUILT INTO A HILLSIDE AND SET AMIDST LUSH, landscaped gardens, the impressive 12-storey fivestar Sheraton Rhodes Resort is one of the most luxurious hotels on the island. Located in the north west, the property also sits in a privileged position, on the edge of a stunning, sweeping bay. From modern and well-appointed rooms, guests enjoy spectacular views of the surrounding landscape and inviting blue seas. Beds are supremely comfortable, and the service is as one would expect of a deluxe resort. An extensive range of facilities include tennis, squash, basketball, watersports, a well-equipped gym and a luxe spa, not to mention an indoor pool, jacuzzi and sauna. Outside, the vast grounds are home to three swimming

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pools and a pristine, private beach which is accessible to hotel guests via an underpass. An excellent choice of onsite restaurants provide a variety of cuisines ranging from traditional to international. Greek restaurant Thea offers unrivalled views of the Aegean as you dine, while the resort’s signature restaurant, L’Onda, serves delicious Italian fare with a contemporary twist. It’s worth saving space for dessert when dining at L’Onda, because the plum and ice cream-baked puff pastry is utterly scrumptious! The sixth-floor bar (from which you can see Turkey in the distance on a clear day) is ideal for sundowners after a day of touring, or nightcaps before crashing out atop a supremely cushy mattress and enjoying the “Sheraton Sleep Experience”. ➤ www.sheratonrhodesresort.com

TRAVELLER LOW D OW N RHODES S TA Y

TUCKED AWAY DOWN A COBBLED backstreet in the old town, the beautiful painted doorway of Marco Polo Mansion stands out. One of the most magical places to rest one’s head on Rhodes, owners Efi and Spyros left most of the charming 15th century Turkish mansion’s original interior design elements untouched to retain its essence and history. The result is unique setting and a warm and intimate hospitality experience. Seven individually designed bedrooms reflect the history of the mansion, each with a different theme, decorated in striking colours and furnished simply yet stylishly. Ranging from charming to grand, all are enriched with carpets, drapes and furnishings from India, Turkey and Morocco. The Imperial room, with its canopied bed overlaid with an Indian sari, is theatrical. Another has its own mini hammam. The property is punctuated by colourful, hand-chosen pieces of furniture throughout. In the center of the mansion, a courtyard brimming with fruit trees and flowering pots bursting with colour has a secret and somewhat magical feel. Sprawling breakfasts are served here, which feature a selection of delicious jams made by Efi’s own hands. In the evenings, the courtyard is filled with

lanterns and candlelight creates an enchanted setting for Marco Polo Restaurant, one of the island’s most popular eateries on the island. A place where old and new friends come together to sample new seasonal dishes and exchange stories of their latest travels, here the sound of laughter and chitchat fills the evening air rather than music, and everyone leaves at the end of the night with a full belly and a warm heart. ➤ www.marcopolomansion.gr

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MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

andrea

bocelli T H E I TA L I A N T E N O R W H O H A S S U N G F O R P O P E S , PRESIDENTS, KINGS AND QUEENS IS A ONE-MAN G L O B A L M U S I C P H E N O M E N O N , H AV I N G S O L D M O R E T H A N O N E H U N D R E D M I L L I O N R E C O R D S . P EOP L E G E N U I N E LY L O V E T H E M A N A S M U C H A S T H E Y L O V E H I S V O I C E . T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R S I T S D O W N W I T H T H E I N C O M PA R A B L E A N D R E A B O C E L L I A T H I S HOME IN TUSCANY

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When people ask what first led me towards music, I reply that it was written into my DNA

There were no musical genes in the Bocelli family, nor did you have a piano in the house. So, what fed young Andrea’s interest in music? Usually, when people ask what first led me towards music, I reply that it was written into my DNA. It was a spontaneous interest, in fact, which was obvious before I started school. My parents didn’t have the opportunity to go to the opera, because they were working, and they just didn’t have time to learn about it. But an older aunt of mine started telling me about the adventures of her opera “hero”, Beniamino Gigli, and she had me listen to his voice and later to other favourite opera stars of hers. At seven years old, I could already recognise all the famous voices of the time within a few seconds of hearing them. Since then, I’ve never lost my passion for this art form, that speaks the language of the heart and remains perpetually relevant in terms of the array of primary emotions that it brings into play.

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Why do you think classical music thrilled you so deeply as a boy? Opera, and classical music generally, has evolved in a fairly complex way over the centuries. It requires more of a commitment from the listener but it’s capable of giving a huge amount back in terms of emotion. It’s a pathway for the spirit and the heart that can be embarked upon from a very young age. As a child, I didn’t really think much about the reasons for this passion. Quite simply, it was a form of expression that brought me great exhilaration and moments of healthy intoxication. I used to listen to the arias, and I would sing them over and over again, emulating the voices that came out of the record-player. I would dream about the heroes I was trying to express through singing, often inventing plots that didn’t actually match the opera librettos that the pieces came from! I believe that we are all born with a talent that Heaven chooses for us.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GIOVANNI DE SANDRE

I N T E RV I E W

Who influenced you musically as a child? The voice that most influenced me at that time was that of Franco Corelli, who celebrates his centenary this year. My aunt gave me a record of his performance of the l’improvviso from the opera Andrea Chénier by Umberto Giordano. I was utterly entranced by his voice: so expansive and richly vibrant, and so full of feeling, with shades of an indefinable suffering that went right to the heart. Listening to Franco Corelli sealed my destiny. Many years later, I became a student and, eventually, a friend of Maestro Corelli. How did your life change when a demo of yours came to the attention of Luciano Pavarotti? My meeting with Maestro Pavarotti was very important for me. He has a special place in my life, at the artistic, professional and personal levels. He was very generous, and I am truly grateful for his friendship and guidance. Luciano was an outstanding artist and the kindness and esteem he showed me contributed in no small way to the launch of my career. He was also an important point of reference for me in acquiring a strong vocal technique. Was the release of your recording of Miserere with Pavarotti in 1992 a crucial point in your career? At the time, Miserere was a song unlike any other. The

singer-songwriter Zucchero was looking for a new voice to record the demo version of this song he wanted to perform with Pavarotti. After many years laying the groundwork in the profession, this innovative new composition offered me the chance to express my dual passion, for opera and for pop music. Luciano listened to that recording and made some generous comments about me. It could be said that my career began at that moment. Over almost three decades, your career has gone from one success to another. What have been the key moments for you so far? I often compare my career to a house, one built of many bricks, each of which helps to keep the house standing. ➤

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PHOTOGRAPHS: LOUCA ROSSETTI

Andrea with Luciano Pavarotti

Every work sung, every opera I have performed in, every recording released has in some way contributed to my journey as a performer. If I had to choose a key moment, for opera it would be the recording of Turandot under the direction of the great Zubin Mehta. A pop highlight would have to be Con Te Partirò, which appeared on my second studio album in 1995, and became Time To Say Goodbye which I performed with Sarah Brightman. That song became a chart-topper all over Europe and became one of the best-selling singles ever.. What do you consider to be your most memorable performance ever? Perhaps the big, free concert that I gave on Central Park’s Great Lawn in September 2011, accompanied by the New York Philharmonic, including special guests Celine Dion and Tony Bennett. It was an incredible event that revealed to me the huge affection felt for me by Americans. And your favourite place to perform? Without wishing to sound over the top, I’d say it’s wherever there is someone who seeks a moment of serenity and joy from my voice, whether that be in a big theatre, a small school or a

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hospital ward. Whether it’s in the presence of royalty or a few close friends, my commitment to providing that sanctuary remains the same. You have had a star dedicated to you on the Hollywood Walk of Fame and have received numerous prestigious musical awards. What award has been the most significant for you? Receiving honours is always a cause to celebrate, as they find their truest and greatest value in the benevolence that gives rise to them. I sometimes think, though, that the more you receive, the more people’s expectations of you grow! Someone once said to me at the end of a concert, “I listened to you sing and rediscovered my faith”. On another occasion someone came up to me and said, “Thanks to your music I have recovered my belief in life”. These personal commendations are the greatest prizes I could hope for. They give me the energy to continue singing and bolster meaning to both my career and wider life.

I N T E RV I E W

Performing with his son, Matteo

I believe that we are all born with a talent that Heaven chooses for us

The wonderful ballad Fall On Me became a musical event that went viral. Can you tell us what it was like working and singing with your son Matteo? The song Fall on Me was a wonderful opportunity that was seized by the whole family, perhaps a little recklessly but with great enthusiasm. The public seemed to have sensed and appreciated the authenticity of the emotions involved. The song – whose lyrics Matteo helped to write – is about a son who is growing up and becoming an adult, and a parent who supports and reassures him. Singing a duet with Matteo, and touring with him beside me, was really wonderful. Your children live near you, 40 kilometres north of Pisa, in Forte dei Marmi. What does your family mean for you? What do you appreciate most about life in Tuscany? I always say that the family is the bedrock of society. For me, personally, it has been a great strength throughout my life, both the family I was lucky enough to grow up in and the extended family that I have acquired as an adult. As for my native land, I have a visceral love for it. Moreover, in terms of quality of life, the quantity of works of art and for a thousand other reasons, I still think it’s the best place in the world to live. As a dear friend once said to me, “We’re lucky to be Europeans, very lucky to be Italians, and shamelessly lucky to live in Tuscany.” You keep stables in Tuscany and we believe that you have even had a conversation with Queen Elizabeth about your mutual love of horses. How did your passion for horses come about? It’s a passion that has its roots in my childhood. My first horse was a pony that my grandfather Alcide gave me when I was eight years old. Riding was not only my favourite sport in my early ➤

Andrea singing at Milan’s Duomo

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From left to right; Veronica, Matteo, Andrea, Virginia, Amos

years, but it was also a great way to get around! The horse was my bicycle, my motorbike. I’ve been breaking in horses since I was a small boy. Back then, due to my inexperience, I would sometimes be thrown off, but I was very stubborn and, in the end, I would get the results I wanted. I admire horses’ intelligence, their ability to express affection, their determination, their athleticism, the bond that can be established when you ride them and their ability to catalyse the feelings and state of mind of the jockey. Your duet Perfect Symphony with Ed Sheeran received over 150 million views on YouTube. Did you enjoy working with Ed? Ed Sheeran is a talented, sensitive and knowledgeable musician, with a friendly personality. After our experience with Perfect Symphony, we both spontaneously decided to continue with this great collaboration, which springs from a shared empathy as artists and as people. Are there any other artists that you would like to collaborate with in future? Singing together – whether in opera or pop – is always a very rewarding experience. The world is full of very talented artists with whom I’d like to collaborate. Do you still feel nervous before you go on stage? Does performing live still make you feel excited? The more the years pass, the greater the audience’s expectations. Every time that I start singing, I want with all my heart to meet those expectations and so, yes, I do

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Young Andrea with his mother

always feel a bit of nervousness to start with. But usually, the warmth and the goodwill I’m greeted with are such that the trepidation is converted into positive energy. For me it’s fundamental to maintain a direct relationship with those who are good enough to appreciate the fruits of my work. As I always say, the best way to thank them is to do so in person, through live performance. I think of concerts as a time to come together, invigorated by the pleasure of meeting again and sharing the emotions that music and beauty give us. I confess that during these months of lockdown, I have really missed this direct relationship with people. How do you like to relax after a performance? After a concert, I try, if I can, to work off the adrenalin that has accumulated and if possible, to reflect on what I sang, on any passages I can improve on and so on. Usually, it’s the time for greeting old and new friends and sometimes I have attended crowded cocktail parties or official dinners. This is despite preferring, whenever possible, the peace of sharing a table far away from the spotlight, with my partner and my children. This is the best kind of relaxation for me, after leaving the stage.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIK KABIK, LITTLE FANG PHOTOGRAPHY

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Andrea and Veronica in the Mojave desert USA

Luciano was an outstanding artist and the kindness and esteem he showed me contributed in no small way to the launch of my career

Please tell us about your latest album, Believe, which seems to be a collection of more touching and personal songs compared to your previous albums. After many albums where the theme has been sensuality and romantic passion, I’ve opted for a project dedicated to the soul and the desire to offer a moment of serenity and optimism to the public. The album is really a collection of pieces linked to spirituality. It includes some of the great classics by composers such as Mozart, Fauré and Bizet, as well as previously unpublished pieces by Puccini and Morricone. The album features new arias that I composed myself, and songs that, while not linked to religion, are still steeped in religiosity, such as Hallelujah by Leonard Cohen and You’ll Never Walk Alone by Rogers & Hammerstein. I can’t overstate the contribution of two great artists, Alison Krauss and Cecilia Bartoli, whose fine voices enhanced the beauty of the album. The gamble was to bring together pieces that are very varied (in terms of type, period and language), but that could collectively give the listener the gift of the motivation to encounter their own spiritual dimension ➤

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Every work sung, every opera I have performed in, every recording released has in some way contributed to my journey as a performer

and to listen to its reasoning. What advice would you give to a young singer who is considering a career in the world of music today? I’d advise any young artist not to be put off by the difficulties, because they are plentiful and to be expected. I’d advise them to persevere, without wasting time on grand declarations or self-pity. Learn from setbacks and anything that could have been done better or differently. Do not give in, for any reason, and never stop believing in your own potential. Be determined, frank and strict with yourself, but always move forwards with optimism and belief in your own passions. To paraphrase a saying by the ancient Greek philosopher Pythagoras, I’d suggest acquiring good habits, because they will eventually become enjoyable with time. Be curious and able to guard against your own possible prejudices. Having a beautiful voice only means you can count on one of the many necessary factors. I would also say that, in order to be able to sing or play an instrument well and convincingly, you must have passion and you need to love life. If you want to thrill the people listening to you, you must have something to tell them and have values to communicate and share. Apart from riding, how else do you relax? I have always loved the sea, swimming and sailing. My house

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in Tuscany, overlooking the sea, where I live with my wife Veronica and my children, is where I must always return to in order to regain peace and energy. Where is your favourite place in the world to vacation? Apart from last year, my life for the past twentyfive years has been one, continuous rush, from one aeroplane to another, from one continent to the next. With that in mind, I must admit that the best holiday I can think of would be within the walls of my own home, surrounded by the love of my family. What do you have in the pipeline for this new year of optimism?! I hope that we will soon be able to hug each other again and smile about the period that has been so painful and different. I hope and pray that no one will be left behind, since, in addition to so many casualties, the pandemic has also caused a dramatic increase in poverty. I hope that we will take on board the lessons of what has happened, work out a new hierarchy of values and understand, with clearer insight, the fact that the world is one big interconnected family. As for my own activities, whilst I have many projects in the pipeline, what I hope for most of all is to be able to return to theatres and arenas to sing. Being able to share my music in that way, once again, will truly be a momentous day.

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K N O C K O U T U N D I E S & N I G H T WE A R www.british-boxers.com

FASHION ICON

HAILED FOR DESIGNING KEY FUTURIST LOOKS OF THE 1960 S AND 1970 S , THE VISIONARY FASHION DESIGNER DIED IN PARIS ON 29 TH DECEMBER 2020. HERE THE CULTURED TRAVELLER LOOKS

BACK AT HIS EXTRAORDINARY CAREER WHICH SPANNED EIGHT DECADES

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A CREATIVE VISIONARY, ALWAYS looking for new inspiration, Pierre Cardin’s fashion-forward lines broke all the rules of the era. Fuelled by a fascination with outer space, Cardin’s futuristic aesthetic became synonymous with the style of the time and some of his decisions undoubtedly changed fashion forever. Born on 2nd July 1922 near Treviso in Northern Italy to French wine merchants, Pierre was the youngest of 11 children. When fascist dictator Mussolini came into power, the family sought refuge in France. Although it was clear that his interests lay in fashion and design, the young prodigy initially studied architecture in the French industrial town of Saint-Étienne. But by the age of 17, he had become an apprentice to a tailor in Vichy,

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Cardin’s ‘Bubble Dress’. 1954

specialising in women’s suits. Cardin arrived in Paris in 1945 to work in the ateliers of haute couturiers Jeanne Paquin and Elsa Schiaparelli. A few years later, Jean Cocteau and Christian Bérard helped Cardin to land his first serious order – the creation of costumes and masks for the movie “Beauty and the Beast”. On 16th December 1946, Cardin was at Christian Dior’s side on the first day of the opening of the house of Dior. His natural design aptitude and meticulous craftsmanship obvious, Cardin was Dior’s premier tailleur (first tailor) for four years, and he helped sew the dresses that became the basis of the revolutionary “New Look”. In 1950, Cardin struck out on his own and founded his eponymous fashion house. In a

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Cardin’s in the ‘60s

Cardin’s ‘Cardine’ dress.

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Pierre Cardin two-tone jersey dresses with vinyl waders. 1969

small attic studio, located in the first arrondissement of Paris, between the Grands Boulevards and Rue Saint-Honoré, Cardin designed costumes for the French capital’s balls and created his own line of suits. This was the beginning of a global empire which Cardin was to head for seven decades. By 1953, Cardin had purchased the entire building at 10 Rue Richepanse where he had started his business barely three years earlier. In 1954, Cardin grabbed the fashion world’s attention with his “bubble dress”. Somewhat resembling a protective cocoon, its fitted bodice and full, gathered skirt became one of the predominant cocktail dress silhouettes of the late 1950s and into the Swinging Sixties, making other designers envious of Cardin. The same year he opened his first boutique, “Eve”, at 118 Rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré. Three years later, a second boutique “Adam”

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The Beatles wearing Pierre Cardin

was opened, featuring Cardin’s colourful ties and printed shirts for men. CARDIN MADE HIS FIRST VISIT TO JAPAN IN 1957, at a time when he was virtually unknown on the continent. He presented a fashion show at Tokyo’s Bunka Fukosa design college and gave lessons, for one month, about the three-dimensional cut. As a result, Cardin became the first French couturier to earn a following and awareness in Japan, which was to stand him in good stead for decades to come. In 1959, Cardin presented his first ready-to-wear women’s collection at Printemps department store in Paris, featuring abstract silhouettes and sculptural cutouts. The collection was a hit and it didn’t take long for the world to notice. American first lady, Jackie Kennedy, wore an elegant red Pierre Cardin suit for a visit to Canada in 1962. The following year, in an early group portrait, The Beatles famously posed for the camera wearing matching Pierre Cardin suits featuring collarless jackets. The radical tailoring – without lapels and buttoned to the top – helped to define a new generation. Cardin gathered every triplet in Paris to launch a children’s collection, continued making costumes for film and TV and fell in love with space exploration, ➤

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From left to right: Raquel Welch wearing Pierre Cardin; With Raquel Welch on a fashion shoot in Paris, 1970; At his legendary ‘Bubble Palace’ in Cannes

especially the Apollo space programme, which he found deeply inspiring. Soon, using new materials, Cardin molded hats from plastic which echoed an astronaut’s helmet, and his dresses grew voluminous sleeves orbiting the arms, emblazoned with circle motifs. 1964 saw Cardin unveil his “Cosmocorps” collection that still remains a landmark in fashion history today. Breaking all the fashion rules of the time, it forwent the primand-proper look of the previous decade, with jumpsuits and unitards replacing stiff collared shirts as primary layers, worn beneath vests and skirts and accessorised with codpieces and asymmetrical zippers. The colours were bold and the shapes were graphic and geometric. It was a moment of fashion legend, cemented by many famous men wearing “Cosmocorps” suits, including Truman Capote, Salvador Dalí and Alain Delon. For the remainder of the ‘60s, Cardin dressed his models in shiny patent leather, bright plastics and shimmering metallics, while also bringing stylish clothes to the masses, not least by popularising the

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turtleneck sweater for men and bodysuits for women. Cardin fastidiously ensured that his garments were cut from the best materials and he frequently set new textile trends which other couturiers followed. Fabrics were often made to his exacting specifications, which were usually ahead in terms of colour and texture. The designer also embellished his eveningwear with rhinestones, sequins, and crystals, famously saying, “I prefer to imagine an evening dress for a world that does not exist yet.” THE FIRST DESIGNER TO SELL HIS collections in department stores in the late 1950s, and the first designer to enter the licensing business, Cardin’s ability to attach his name to so many items helped him to amass a massive fortune and gave him the revenue to keep his business completely independent. In the following decades, Cardin set the stage for modern branding by signing his name on everything from accessories and fragrances to home goods. While he sometimes faced criticism for possibly damaging the value of his brand ➤

FA S H I O N ICON

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Pierre Cardin spring/summer 2007 catwalk show in Dunhuang, China

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and the notion of luxury in general, Cardin seemed largely unaffected by such comments and proceeded to create a vast business empire spanning all corners of the globe. There are still hundreds of licenses to produce clothes under the Pierre Cardin brand name worldwide. CARDIN SPOTTED VERY EARLY ON China’s potential as a luxury hub, entering the market just as the door was opening to the West in 1979. Following a landmark show at the Great Wall of China, he was asked to design outfits for Chinese government officials. In 1981, Cardin purchased famed Parisian restaurant Maxim’s and exported the concept globally. In 2007, at the age of 85, Cardin staged one of the most brilliant fashion shows of his career, in the vast desert of Mingsha Mountain, near Dunhuang in northwest China’s Gansu province. A magnificent outdoor spectacle, one hundred models wearing his Spring/Summer 2008 collection for the Chinese market, strutted along a long, thin white catwalk which wound through the dramatic lunar-like landscape. The designer said of the show, “this one was very special for me. The light and the emptiness and the colour of the sand against the blue sky - it was like showing fashion on the edge of infinity.” Ever the businessman, one year later, he sold licenses to China to sell Cardin garments and accessories. ➤

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2016 saw the last Cardin fashion show helmed by the designer. Whilst it was presented in classic catwalk style, in France, the colours and styles on display were as modern and as distinctive as ever. Female models sported batwing sleeves and satin capes and the show climaxed with a sparkling green wedding dress complete with an iridescent split train, with shirtless male models in a rugby scrum behind her. Cardin made his nephew Rodrigo Basilicati Cardin CEO of Pierre Cardin Group in 2018 and chairman in October 2020. Basilicati Cardin plans to rationalise the licences and keep the atelier running in the spirit of his uncle. Annual turnover, including licencing, is in the region of EUR 500 million.

A SUPREME INNOVATOR, WHO FOR seventy years ripped up convention and captured the zeitgeist, Cardin’s thirst for the new and surprising was never satisfied. During pandemicridden 2020, he sketched and visited his Parisian atelier and boutique on Place Beauvau every day including Saturdays and Sundays, except during the lockdown, and he checked every single creation before it went out. In the last weeks of his life, Cardin asked his nurses for paper and pencils to sketch. The pioneering couturier synonymous with Space Age Chic, who dressed everyone from Jeanne Moreau to Raquel Welch, was a visionary stylist and creative genius who will ultimately be remembered for his futuristic designs that stretched from earth to the moon and back.

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taste&sip I N I S S U E 3 3 , T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R ’ S F O O D I E S T R AV E L T O AT H E N S A N D H A M B U R G

GB ROOF GARDEN R E S TA U R A N T ➤ AT H E N S , G R E E C E

GIN

SUL

D I S T I L L E RY

➤ H A M BU R G, G E R M A N Y

HAMBURG ➤ GERMANY

GB Roof Garden Restaurant, Athens T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

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taste &sip

REVI C R OW N I N G G R E E C E ’ S M O S T FA M O U S H O T E L A N D

B OA S T I N G I N C R E D I B L E PA N O R A M A S O F AT H E N S , NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU CHECKS OUT THE C U L I N A RY C R E D E N T I A L S O F O N E O F T H E C I T Y ’ S M O S T C E L E B R AT E D R E S TAU R A N T S

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GB ROOF GARDEN R E S TA U R A N T

➤ AT H E N S , G R E E C E FOOD ATMOSPHERE

FROM THE FINE DINING CUISINE dispensed by an array of award-winning chefs to the humble but tasty gyro peddled by street vendors, served in the city’s glam riviera restaurants to the pavements of Monastiraki Square, in recent years Athens has undergone something of a culinary revolution. This means that today it is pretty difficult to have a bad eating experience in the Greek capital. A drive for citywide culinary excellence has in turn fuelled Athens’ top venues and the nation’s most talented chefs to up their gastronomic game, resulting in a number of exceptionally good restaurants offering a wealth of international cuisines. A perennial favourite, occupying one of the city’s most coveted locations, over the past fourteen years GB Roof Garden Restaurant & Bar has established itself as both a go-to destination for visitors and a local haunt for well-to-do Athenians in-the-know. Indeed, a visit to this landmark venue is akin to having Athens at your feet and Greece on your plate, all at the same time. To put this restaurant into context ➤

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Pan-Seared scallops

one must first consider its location, perched atop undoubtedly the most famous and storied hotel in all of Greece. Boasting a royal box-like location, presiding over Syntagma Square and the Greek parliament building and founded in 1874, Hotel Grande Bretagne was in the middle of Hellenic history for the entire twentieth century and remains unseated today as the country’s premiere hotel at the very best address. Nothing short of a local institution, whenever dignitaries, heads of state, pop stars and Hollywood glitterati visit Athens, this grande dame of Athenian hospitality is invariably where they rest their heads, and on the hotel’s rooftop is where they sip and dine. Consequently, GB Roof Garden Restaurant & Bar has become something of a Greek hospitality legend in its own right.

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MY SWISHY ATHENIAN ROOFTOP EXPERIENCE begins when I am welcomed by liveried doormen as I alight outside the hotel on street level. After a swift ride in a gilded elevator to the hotel’s top floor, I am warmly greeted by a knowledgeable maître d’ and offered a seat in the bar for a pre-dinner aperitif. And there it is – incredibly at eye level – the fabled Acropolis of Athens. For the uninitiated, this spectacular view of Greece’s most famous attraction is nothing short of jaw-dropping. Even after a few visits to GB Roof Garden, the sight still has the ability to stop most in their tracks and quite literally take their breath away. Furthermore, spread out in front of GB Roof Garden like a historical buffet, almost all of Athens’ ancient landmarks are presented for diners to feast their eyes on as they eat. After kicking-off the evening with a carefully

TA S T E & S I P

A visit to this landmark venue is akin to having Athens at your feet and Greece on your plate, all at the same time

Beatroot salad with smoked eel

hand-crafted cocktail, I am escorted to my table by a smart and friendly waiter. Like a roadmap for what’s to come, for me, nothing beats a dinner table dressed in crisp white linen and set with traditional dining accoutrements. I take a seat and there she is again – the Acropolis, right in front of me, giving me goose bumps. When in such majestic company, I imagine that even dining alone is an absolute delight at GB Roof Garden. As I flick through the restaurant’s extensive menu of modern Mediterranean dishes – ranging from appetisers and salads to pastas, risottos, fresh fish, crustacean and grilled meats – I notice that I am in the company of well-dressed locals and monied Athenians sitting at adjacent tables, as well as seasoned travellers and gathered families. It’s a wide ranging, effortlessly classy and stylish clientele, obviously indicative of the venue’s standing in the city. The food menu is accompanied by a rather impressive wine list, which is perhaps a little too large for many to navigate. Thankfully, help is at hand in the form of charming head sommelier Evangelos Psofidis, who has been in charge of the restaurant’s wines for more than ➤

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a decade and takes great pleasure in assisting diners with his personal recommendations. A bottle of “Droumo” Sauvignon Blanc from Kir-Yianni estate in northwestern Greece is opened, and the fine white doesn’t disappoint with its elegant fruit purity. The crisp, medium bodied wine is simply delicious on the palate and the perfect accompaniment to my tuna tartare starter. Married with coriander, chilies, grapefruit and tapioca pearls, the fresh tuna is elevated to a culinary high by a smokey onion cream and a wonderful black sesame tahini dressing. The second bottle of the night is an award-winning “Ovilos” from Biblia Chora Domaine, situated on the slopes of Pangeon mountain in northern Greece. An emblematic blend of Assyrtiko and Semillon, the rich complexity of the bright yellow wine with light green hues is in perfect balance with aromas of apricot and honey together with notes of tropical fruit and citrus. On a par with a premium white Bordeaux, the stunning wine is poured just as my second course of pan-seared scallops arrives. Served with a bean purée, yellow tomatoes, fish roe spread and smoked herring, my taste buds revel in the wonderful combination of flavours.

As the sun sets and night falls, the almost surreal vista takes on a whole new dimension

THROUGHOUT THE MEAL THE SERVICE IS formal, swift and convivial. Dishes are explained in a colloquial fashion and my wine glass is not topped-up over-frequently. A calm and refined members’ clublike atmosphere is palpable, resulting in an intensely relaxing and gratifying dining experience, enjoyed against a backdrop of subdued chitter-chatter and the

Lamb duet, smoked red pepper with potato and basil purée

most magnificent of views. And as the sun sets and night falls, the almost surreal vista takes on a whole new dimension, with the twinkling lights of Athens surrounding a floodlit Acropolis lit-up like a glittering Greek crown. In the kitchen, before it makes its way to the pass, my main course is finished by enthusiastic chef de cuisine Nikos Mavrokostas, under the watchful eye of the hotel’s talented executive chef, Asterios Koustoudis. Both are passionate about making the best use of fresh, premium local ingredients and employing advanced cooking techniques to create exquisite dishes oozing clean, rich flavours. To say that they are succeeding is perhaps an understatement. For main course, I am served a duet of perfectly cooked lamb comprising a grilled rack and a slowcooked leg. Together with smoked Florina pepper, potato with basil, potato soufflé and volaki cheese from Andros, the dish is a feast for my eyes as well as my

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GB ROOF GARDEN RESTAURANT FOOD ATMOSPHERE EXECUTIVE CHEF: Asterios Koustoudis CHEF DE CUISINE: Nikos Mavrokostas ADDRESS: Hotel Grande Bretagne, 1 Vasileos Georgiou A’ Street, Athens 10564, Greece TELEPHONE: +30 210 3330766 EMAIL: grandebretagne.restaurants @luxurycollection.com WEBSITE: ➤ www.gbroofgarden.gr

CUISINE: Modern Mediterranean OPENING HOURS: Daily 13:00-01:15 LUNCH PRICE: Greek salad EUR 18; Grilled fish of the day EUR 46; Traditional galaktoboureko EUR 12 DINNER PRICE: Tuna tartare EUR 29; Ravioli with gorgonzola EUR 26; Lamb duet EUR 41; Tiramisu EUR 12 RESERVATIONS: Essential WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes CHILDREN: Highchairs available. Kids menu available CREDIT CARDS: All major PARKING: Subject to availability

belly. I linger over every mouthful of the succulent meat as I sip a rare Greek red “Vieilles Vignes” Agiorgitiko from La Tour Melas. The mild, fragrant wine, lovingly made from ancient vines, is the ideal partner for the delicate pink lamb. Desserts at GB Roof Garden come courtesy of renowned French pastry chef Arnaud Larher and hence are not-to-be-missed. I am grateful to have room for a few bites of one of Larher’s divine Paris-Brest pastries. The light and airy choux is filled with a heavenly pistachio cream and garnished with handmade praline and caramelized pistachios. I wash it down with a fine mastika from the island of Chios and my modern Greek culinary journey is all but complete. I take one last look at the astonishing view of the Acropolis, bid farewell to GB Roof Garden and descend back down to earth, my senses having been treated to a memorable night of scrumptious food, delectable beverages and unforgettable sights.

TCT REVIEWER: Nicholas Chrisostomou for dinner Star ratings out of five reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service and, separately, the atmosphere in the dining room

Paris-Brest

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EXPERIENCE N I C H O L A S C H R I S O S T O M O U V I S I T S A D I S T I L L E RY I N H A M B U R G T O D I S C OV E R W H AT M A K E S I T S G I N S TA N D O U T I N A N AT I O N O F H U N D R E D S O F J U N I P E R- BA S E D S P I R I T S

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GIN SUL ➤H A M B U R G, G E R M A N Y

WHILST JUNIPER trees have long been native to the land of beer, Riesling and schnapps and their aromatic berries used in traditional German cooking to spice up countless dishes from sauerkraut to Black Forest ham, what many people don’t know is that Germany’s love affair with gin began way before Monkey 47 came to prominence. First sold as a medicine in the late 16th century, juniper has been the main ingredient of genever for hundreds of years. A traditional, distilled and malted Dutch liquor that predates modern gin, genever is essentially a marriage between whisky and gin, and the northwest German region of East Frisia (which borders the Netherlands) has produced a number of traditional genever-influenced juniper-flavoured spirits for centuries. One of the best known is Doornkaat. A light, triple-distilled schnapps-like spirit made with fermented maize and flavoured with juniper, Doornkaat has been produced in the northwestern German state of Lower Saxony since Berentzen distillery was founded in 1758. Yet, despite Germany’s long history of juniper-flavoured spirits, gin and its cousins largely fell out of favour with the German people by the mid-20th century and vodka was the national spirit of choice for decades. ➤

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a good G&T. Today, Germany is believed to be one of the top ten gin drinking nations in the world and Germans’ love for gin shows no signs of abating. Indeed, the artisanal spirits revolution has made beverage waves throughout Germany and both fine high-end and quality small-batch gins quickly gain heightened popularity amongst the country’s drinkers and bartenders. Because there is no, single “London Dry” style (for instance) to typify German gins, the nation’s hundreds of distillers form a hugely diverse group, making it difficult for one brand to make a ripple in such a vast market.

Gin Sul’s founder, Stephan Garbe

ARRIVING ON THE MARKET in 2010 and produced in the Black Forest region of the country, upmarket Monkey 47 gin marked the beginning of Germany’s current craze for the juniperbased spirit. Its name referencing the number of different botanicals in the secret recipe, many of which are sourced from the surrounding forest, Monkey 47 famously won gold at the 2011 World Spirits Awards. This fuelled widespread artisanal gin making in Germany, together with the founding of a number of small gin distillers around the country. It’s hard to pin down an exact figure, but some say that there are now more than five hundred gin brands in Germany, meaning that the nation is giving England and Spain a serious run for their money in its love of

ALREADY A GIN ENTHUSIAST, while travelling around the Costa Vicentina in 2013 during a sabbatical, Stephan Garbe was inspired to create his own gin by the flora, fauna and flavours of this last truly wild stretch of Portugal’s coastline. A protected area encompassing everything from rolling hills and marshland to cliffs, rocky coves and broad beaches, the region boasts a wealth of unique aromas which Garbe spent a year capturing in his gin, ably assisted by a team of professional distillers. The result is a unique marriage of Portugal’s natural southwest coast and the modern sensibility of the Hanseatic city of Hamburg, bringing together the fragrances of Costa Vicentina in Gin Sul and German craftsmanship. Located in the northern part of Hamburg, Altona is one of the city’s most vibrant and diverse districts and sports an eclectic mix of architectural styles, from industrial factories to beautiful period buildings and quaint areas interspersed with inviting squares and parks. It is in the centre of this cosmopolitan neighbourhood that Gin Sul is produced by a team of a dozen passionate people, at Altonaer Spirituosen Manufaktur. ➤

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MARKED BY A TURQUOISE NEON sign, we arrive at the distillery on a wet winter’s afternoon to meet Gregor Wicken, one of Gin Sul’s marketing livewires. Spirited and affable, with a bartending and hospitality background, Wicken is indicative of the energetic Gin Sul team. The liberal use of warm timbers, soft lighting and white wood accented with colourful touches further add to the warm welcome received. We quickly discard our soaking garments and are furnished with the first of many gin and tonics. Hailing from 1700s Basque Spain, Gin Sul is best served in a traditional Copa de Balon, because the wide bowl collects the botanical scents of the gin and is large enough to accommodate the garnishes, not to mention plenty of ice. Served in a Copa glass, with a sprig of fresh rosemary and some orange zest, a Gin Sul G&T is a decidedly uplifting and glamorous drink, and it’s not long before we are relaxed and ready for the

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tasting and tour to begin. THE FOURTEEN BOTANICALS contained in Gin Sul include wild juniper, coriander seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, allspice, cubeb, lavender and rose petals, plus the all-important fresh lemon peel and fragrance of gum rockrose plants (Cistus ladanifer) that line the rugged cliffs of Portugal’s west coast and are indigenous to the western Mediterranean region. The majority of the botanicals macerate for 36-hours in stainless steel tanks, before being carefully distilled in Gin Sul’s beautiful 100-litre Arnold Holstein copper distillation unit, which looks magnificent set against a backdrop of blue and white Portuguese tiles in the distillery. Perched on high-stools at a timber bar, nibbling on prosciutto, olives and crusty bread while sipping our G&Ts, we listen intently as Wicken

talks us through the process, obviously passionate about the lemons and botanicals, all of which are flown-in to Hamburg weekly from Portugal. We also meet distiller Rafael Viera who shows us some of the ingredients. After the distillates have rested for several weeks, they are blended with soft water from the Lüneburg Heath region of Lower Saxony, before being bottled in Gin Sul’s eye-catching clay bottles, which throwback to a time, centuries ago, when genever was kept in clay jugs. Gin Sul’s unique bottles also serve to preserve the gin’s delicate flavours a little better than glass, simply because the sun cannot get in. OUR TOUR ENDS BACK IN THE bar and shop area into which we arrived, where Wicken shows us the range of Gin Sul’s special limited editions. A stroke

of marketing genius, each edition is a completely new recipe limited to 6,000 pieces worldwide, and is adorned with a gorgeous illustration. Released once yearly and usually sold out within just a few hours, these limited-edition gins go on to change hands for much more than their original sale price. Highly collectable and resembling unique pieces of colourful alcoholic art, it’s not hard to see why! After a fascinating and engaging few hours in the company of Wicken, fuelled by fragrant G&Ts bursting with floral and citrus aromas, it’s somewhat hard to leave the warm confines of Gin Sul’s comfortable home. But venture back outsidewe do, both a little merry and a little longing for the warm, Mediterranean coast of Portugal’s Costa Vicentina. ➤ www.gin-sul.de/english

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ALEX BENASULI DIS COVERS THAT

H A M B U R G ’ S M A N Y C U LT U R A L HIGHLIGHTS ARE MATCHED BY A B U R G E O N I N G , M U LT I FA C E T E D C U L I N A RY S C E N E

HAMBU R FOOD

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GERMANY’S HANDSOME and prosperous second city, there are more billionaires and millionaires living in Hamburg than in any other German metropolis. As the richest metropolitan centre in one of the world’s wealthiest countries, Hamburg understandably oozes a sense of confidence and success. At the same time, it is down to earth, discreet and practical. There is a profound sense of civic pride and identity in Die Perle des Nordens (The Pearl of the North), but no boastfulness or haughtiness. For a city that was nearly destroyed twice, Hamburg is astonishingly attractive. And because the old centre was painstakingly rebuilt, Hamburg retains all the architectural charms of a typical North European city. Even a short visit to Hamburg is sure to impress with its understated yet obvious charms: its attractive cityscape incorporating

period and contemporary buildings and monuments; its low-rise architecture pierced by soaring church spires; the industriousness of its inner-city port, and the juxtaposition of colourful gentrified workingclass neighbourhoods with posh, elegant residential districts. The river Elbe runs through Hamburg’s centre, connecting the city to the North Sea sixty-five miles away, meanwhile branching into numerous waterways and canals that criss-cross the city and imbue the sprawling metropolis with a distinctive, enticing aquatic flair. It is said that there are more canals and bridges in Hamburg than Amsterdam, Stockholm and Venice combined and so, when walking around, water is seldom out of sight or sound. Seagulls cawing, ships’ horns groaning and sailboats ballooning on the city’s two lakes – the Binnenalster (inner Alster) and Aussenalster (outer Alster) – ➤

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Binnenalster

make for picture postcard photo opps around every corner. Since Hamburg is the second largest port in Europe and the biggest in Germany, life on the water is utterly integral to the city’s character, and there is no better way to experience this than via Hamburg’s fast-evolving multifaceted food scene. ANY CITY SURROUNDED BY SO much water is bound to have a lot of fish, and in Hamburg the city’s culinary history begins at the historic, open-air Fischmarkt (fish market), just off the water in Altona, which has been selling the freshest fish in the city since 1703. More than thirty thousand tons of fresh fish are sold every Sunday morning at this market, including everything from eel to perch and halibut. A must for every visitor and a paradise for international foodies, a visit to Fischmarkt makes for a deliciously insane morning ritual and the perfect

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start for a gastronomic immersion in Hamburg’s culinary history. Don’t leave without sampling local seafood street food-style Fischbrötchen (a fresh crusty roll with raw or fried fish inside), Krabben (prawns) and the Hamburg favourite of Matjes (young herring). Tucked away in a wholesale fish warehouse in Altona (close to Fischmarkt), Atlantik Fisch operates a basic but tasty restaurant as part of its wholesale business. A testament to the authentic, fresh and delicious seafood it serves, the place is routinely packed with locals and those in the know. If there are no tables, order a Backfisch sandwich to go and you’ll not be disappointed. ➤www.atlantik-fisch.de Strolling around the city’s different districts, visitors’ chance upon a range of acclaimed eateries where young chefs offer avant-garde concepts. But whilst the underlying trend is for simplicity, with a distinct focus on artisan food from regional, eco-friendly sources,

thanks to the city’s synergy with water, fish creations always tend to be high on the list of local specials. Finkenwerder Scholle is simply delicious pan-fried plaice with bacon bits and fried potatoes, and eel and herring are big in Hamburg, with the city boasting numerous varieties of the latter. Make sure you try a bowl of traditional eel soup or Aalsuppe. Originating in the 18th century as a dish for ordinary folk where eel was plentiful, today it is so filling and nutritious that it is often served as a main course rather than just a starter. If you visit Hamburg in the summer months, be sure to order the popular dessert Rote Grütze which originates from the north of Germany/Denmark. Served in many restaurants, this scrummy summer pudding is essentially a compote made from fresh berries and cherries which simply must be eaten with vanilla sauce!

TA S T E & S I P K ra b b e n b rö t c h e n

H a fe n C i t y

Rote Grütze

Located in the heart of the Altstadt near the Rathaus, in between the city’s two main shopping districts, Café Paris is a no-nonsense French style bistro serving quality, semirefined home cooking in a beautiful 1882 building. The main dining room boasts tiled walls and a striking, domed ceiling. Always buzzing, Café Paris is a great place to absorb the local pulse and one of the best venues in Hamburg to brunch. ➤ www.cafeparis.net In bohemian, fashionable Sternschanze district, just north of St. Pauli, Nil specialises in inventive home cooking with options ranging from organ meat to fish and pasta. Located in a quiet corner off a main street and feeling much like a beloved neighbourhood restaurant, Nil is set over three intimate floors connected to each other via loft spaces and platforms. An excellent wine list compliments the hearty food. ➤ www.restaurant-nil.de Food trucks have been an interesting addition to Hamburg’s culinary scene in recent years. In Altona district, gourmet trucks as well as mobile food booths offer a variety of tasty, homemade regional specialties. Robert Wullopf and Hagen Schäfer – two renowned chefs, who used to run Lokal1 restaurant and source their ingredients from dozens of local ➤

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Elbphilharmonie

farms – operate a bright green gourmet truck often seen at Hamburg’s markets. THERE ARE MANY THEORIES ON THE origin of Hamburgers – the name for citizens of Hamburg – and most trace the famous burger back to Hamburg. Immigrants on board ships sailing to America were said to have enjoyed a wheat bun stuffed with meat. Once on dry land, they continued to eat the same, but substituted ground meat for the roasted variety. In Hamburg, meat patties known as Frikadelle – made from a mixture of ground beef, soaked bread, egg and chopped onion – are considered by many to be the precursor of the hamburger. Unsurprisingly, American style hamburgers are popular in Hamburg’s numerous burger bars, where one can find all manner of creative variations. Nowhere is the commercially successful past and present of Hamburg, as well as its aesthetic charms, better appreciated than in the areas at the base of Binnenalster and the Jungfernstieg – the city’s well-to-do lakeside boulevard. And to the left of Binnenalster lies the distinctive white façade and oxidized green copper roof of Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten. CONCEIVED AS A GRAND HOTEL in the classic European tradition and consistently voted one of Germany’s best, the Vier Jahreszeiten exudes elegance and luxury throughout, not least in its food and beverage venues, with two of them particularly standing out: Two Michelinstarred Haerlin’s exquisite Mediterranean and Francophile cuisine, courtesy of celebrated chef Christoph Rüffers, is known throughout Germany. And when NIKKEI NINE opened in 2016, it was the hottest venue to hit Hamburg’s culinary scene in years, and immediately met with widespread acclaim. With many premium food and beverage options in one property, Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten is almost constantly on the lips of Hamburg’s most discerning gourmands. ➤www.hvj.de/en Just behind the Jungfernstieg, along the canals that line Neuer Wall and Alsterarkaden, are the streets that make up Hamburg’s upscale shopping district, which are immeasurably enhanced in warm weather by a number of al fresco canal-side cafés and wine bars. It is perfect to pause

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here for refreshment before moving-on. And from Neuer Wall it is but a tenminute walk to HafenCity – Hamburg’s waterfront port area. The scene of Europe’s largest innercity regeneration for decades, HafenCity today brims with restaurants, cafés and exhibition spaces for locals and visitors to enjoy. It is also the location of Kevin Fehling’s standout restaurant, The Table.  Fehling earned three Michelin stars at La Belle Époque in Lubeck before opening The Table five years ago. Accommodating just twenty people who sit around a huge, dark cherry wood table facing an open kitchen, diners savour modern interpretations of classical dishes served

Haerlin

N i k ke i N i n e

by the chef himself. ➤ www.thetable-hamburg.de NO PORT CITY WOULD BE complete without its seedy side and Hamburg is no exception. The Reeperbahn area of St. Pauli is one of the most wellknown red-light districts in the world. Amidst the sex clubs and fetish stores are the music venues in which The Beatles played before the group took off globally. North of St. Pauli lies Sternschanze, an up-and-coming residential neighbourhood filled with a host of bohemian restaurants and bars. To the west of the city, near Hauptbahnhof train station, is St.Georg, which was one of

Hamburg’s first traditionally workingclass neighbourhoods to be gentrified. It too offers numerous relaxed cafés and restaurants offering a high level of service. Hamburg has much going for it. Economically prosperous with a strong sense of purpose and identity, the city is forward thinking and practical. Ruggedly handsome with classic features, it is also a visual and culinary feast that reflects its roots and natural setting. And in the new Elbphilharmonie concert hall, Hamburg now has a modern architectural landmark worthy of its multifaceted identity, positively beckoning visitors to come, take a look and sample its delicious variety of cuisines.

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WEB

ADDRESSES

F E AT U R E D

FOR

THIS

ALBERT DOCK ➤ www.albertdock.com

E V E RY

ISSUE

PLACE THE

AND

PERSONALITY

C U LT U R E D

HALE TURGAVIETE ➤ www.halesturgaviete.lt

T R AV E L L E R

RAFFLES BALI ➤ www.raffles.com/bali/

AMANDUS ➤ www.amandus.lt

HAY FESTIVAL WALES

RHINE IN FLAMES ➤ www.rhein-in-flammen.com

AMANGIRI ➤ www.aman.com

➤ www.hayfestival.com/wales

RIGGS WASHINGTON DC ➤ www.riggsdc.com

ANDREA BOCELLI ➤ www.andreabocelli.com

HOTEL PACAI ➤ www.hotelpacai.com

ROYAL LIVER BUILDING ➤ www.rlb360.com

ATLANTIK FISCH ➤ www.atlantik-fisch.de

BÃI SAN HÔ ➤ www.zannierhotels.com BLUECOAT (LIVERPOOL) ➤ www.thebluecoat.org.uk BRIGHTON FESTIVAL ➤ www.brightonfestival.org

KING & MOUSE ➤ www.kingandmouse.lt

SNOWBOMBING ➤ www.snowbombing.com SOHO ROC HOUSE ➤ www.sohohouse.com

LOPUD 1483

➤ www.capellahotels.com/en

➤ www.lopud1483.com

FACT (LIVERPOOL) ➤ www.fact.co.uk

TATE LIVERPOOL ➤ www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-liverpool THE ALCHEMIST (LIVERPOOL) ➤ www.thealchemist.uk.com THE ART SCHOOL RESTAURANT ➤ www.theartschoolrestaurant.co.uk

MARCO POLO MANSION

THE BALMORAL, EDINBURGH

➤ www.marcopolomansion.gr

➤ www.roccofortehotels.com

MIDDLE EIGHT ➤ www.middleeight.com

THE TABLE

MILLO ➤ www.millo.biz

➤ www.thetable-hamburg.de

MO MUSEUM (VILNIUS) ➤ www.mo.lt

THE TOKYO EDITION, TORANOMON

MORCHEEBA ➤ www.morcheeba.uk

➤ www.editionhotels.com

NEIGHBOURHOOD (LIVERPOOL) ➤ www.neighbourhoodrestaurant.co.uk

➤ www.hvj.de/en

NIL (RESTAURANT) ➤ www.restaurant-nil.de

F1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX

NINETEEN18 ➤ www.nineteen18.lt

➤ www.bahraingp.com

NOBU HOTEL WARSAW

FORESTIS ➤ www.forestis.it

➤ www.warsaw.nobuhotels.com

GB ROOF GARDEN RESTAURANT

MA BOYLE’S ➤ www.maboylesliverpool.com

FAIRMONT HOTEL VIER JAHRESZEITEN

➤ www.stgeorgesquarter.org

➤ www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk

➤ www.liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk

ERTLIO NAMAS ➤ www.ertlionamas.lt

ST. GEORGE’S QUARTER

SHIVERPOOL ➤ www.shiverpool.co.uk

CAPELLA BANGKOK

SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL ➤ www.snowfes.com

LIVERPOOL CATHEDRAL

LIVERPOOL METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL

➤ www.dubairacingclub.com

➤ www.sheratonrhodesresort.com

ST. JOHN’S BEACON ➤ www.stjohnsbeacon.co.uk

➤ www.cafeparis.net

DUBAI WORLD CUP

SHERATON RHODES RESORT

➤ www.sources-cheverny.com

CAFÉ PARIS (HAMBURG)

LES SOURCES DE CHEVERNY

LIVERPOOL GIN ➤ www.liverpoolgin.com

INDEX

LITTLE BLACK BOOK

THRISSUR POORAM FESTIVAL ➤ www.thrissurpooramfestival.com TITANIC HOTEL ➤ www.titanichotelliverpool.com

VISIT LIVERPOOL ➤ www.visitliverpool.com VISIT VALENCIA ➤ www.visitvalencia.com

PANORAMIC 34 ➤ www.panoramic34.com

➤ www.gbroofgarden.gr

PHILHARMONIC DINING ROOMS

GIN SUL ➤ www.gin-sul.de/english

➤ www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk

GRAND HOTEL KEMPINSKI VILNIUS

PIERRE CARDIN

➤ www.kempinski.com

➤ www.pierrecardin.com/en

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room with a view G I R I JA A L A S U I T E ➤ A M A N G I R I ➤ C A N Y O N P O I N T , U N I T E D S T A T E S

BOASTING A LARGE PRIVATE swimming pool and an expansive terrace laden with loungers, the Girijaala Suite at Amangiri also provides its lucky inhabitants with spectacular, panoramic vistas of the Utah desert and the staggering surrounding landscape. Known as red rock country for its flowering cacti and unusual formations of coloured Navajo Sandstone, Amangiri is surrounded by canyons,

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mesas, mountains, gorges and rapids, and signs of human life can be traced back more than 10,000 years. Set within the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument which spans nearly one million acres, Amangiri’s location is a veritable theatre of nature in one of the world’s most dramatically secluded settings, typified by ochre in the morning, apricot by midday and a wonderful shade of dazzling pink at dusk. ➤ www.aman.com

D ESI G N ED F O R TH OS E W H O S E T TH E TR E N D Ope n-m i nd e d s pa ce s w i t h a c h o i c e o f p o o l v i l l a s, s u n de c k s a n d b e a c h - c h i c v i b e s.

NIKKI BEACH RESORT & SPA DUBAI

PEARL JUMEIRA

NIKKIBEACH.COM

NIKKIBEACHHOTELDUBAI

+971 4 376 6000