The Cultured Traveller, February-March 2016 THE COLOMBIAN EDITION Issue 9

ISSUE 9 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016

COVER IMAGE COURTESY OF PROCOLOMBIA

La Edición COLOMBIANA

BOGOTÁ • SOFÍA VERGARA • MEDELLÍN • JUANES • CARTAGENA SIERRA NEVADA DE SANTA MARTA • GLORIA SALDARRIAGA

Co ming in fall 2016 , i n te r n at i on al l y accl ai me d N o b u H o tel bri ngs its unique st yl e of f u s i on ar t i st r y to t h e eter n a lly iconic EdenRoc Re s or t & Sp a, s e t t i n g a n ew standard of l u x u r y i n M i ami Be ach. nobuedenroc.com

Pierre Koffman Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

Marianne Faithfull

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller Peter Blake Danny La Rue

The Beatles Sam Smith Marco Pierre White Nigel Havers

Eartha Kit Imelda Staunton

Kenneth Halliwell

Joe OrtonPeter CookElton John

Paloma Faith Coco Chanel Beryl Cook

Francis Bacon

Frankie Howard

Dudley Moore

Lucien Freud Diana Judi Dench General de Gualle

Ella Fitzgerald Janis Joplin

Laurence Olivier

Edward Heath Cleo Laine

Stephen Fry Frank Sinatra

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CONTENTS

HIGHLIGHTS

37 COLOMBIA’S COOL CAPITAL

Bogotá, Colombia's high altitude high-octane capital city, refreshingly doesn't revolve around foreign visitors, but caters rather well to tourists, with luxe hotels, exceptional eating, world-class museums and stylish boutiques.

64 SOFÍA VERGARA

The TV star, actress and comedienne of Modern Family fame, picks out the favourite parts of her native city of Barranquilla and gives us some holiday tips about Colombia, her motherland.

56 BOTERO’S SUITES

The Cultured Traveller slipped behind the keyhole of two unique vacation pads inextricably linked to one of the most successful contemporary artists alive, Fernando Botero: The award-winning Botero Suite at Sofitel Legend Santa Clara and The Angel Suite at Casa De Indias, both in the heart of Cartagena’s old city.

108

COLOMBIA’S FASHION QUEEN

Routinely consulted for fashion and art advice, Colombia’s charming fashion queen, Gloria Saldarriaga, chatted exclusively with The Cultured Traveller about her life and passions.

71 NO SHOES BLISS

Nicholas Chrisostomou road-tested two distinctly different Colombian chill out experiences: a beachside eco escape on the country’s stunning northern coastline, and a designer vacation pad in an Andean riverside town virtually untouched by tourism.performing.

102 LATINO POP GOD

The Cultured Traveller caught up with Latino pop music legend, Juanes, winner of two Grammy Awards, and twenty Latin Grammy Awards.

88 LOVE IS IN THE DETAILS

Medellín restaurant, Carmen, is owned and run by an American-Colombian gastronomic power couple, who have forged a niche in Colombia’s restaurant industry by reimagining dishes with vitality and flair, and serving them in elegant yet warm surroundings.

February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 07

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88 10 EDITOR’S LETTER

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Our second ever special country issue, La Edición Colombiana, explores the only nation in South America embraced by the Pacific and Atlantic. In between these oceans, is a land of rich flora and fauna - including the Amazon and Andes - together with modern cities, vast farmlands, ancient civilisations and colonial charm. Welcome to Colombia, the country of magical realism.

12 NEWSFLASH

71 56

Colombia, with something for every month of the year, including Carnival in Barranquilla, Popayán‘s Easter procession, Medellín’s International Tango Festival, Opera In The Park in the country’s capital city of Bogotá, and the Miss Colombia Pageant in Cartagena.

16 REST YOUR HEAD

Hotels featured in La Edición Colombiana include the swishy W Bogotá in the nation’s capital, world-famous Sofitel Legend Santa Clara in Cartagena, Sazagua in the heart of coffee

country, Casa Galavanta high in the forests of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Entremonte Wellness Hotel & Spa in Apulo and the slick new Movich Buró 51 in Barranquilla.

37 CITY FOCUS: BOGOTÁ

Home to the famed gold and Botero museums, Colombia's high altitude high-octane capital city, Bogotá, refreshingly doesn't revolve around foreign visitors but does cater rather well to tourists, with luxe hotels, exceptional eating, funky bars and stylish boutiques, plus the picture-postcard downtown Candelaria colonial quarter.

54 MY BOGOTÁ

The Bogotá-based founder of Loto del Sur, Johana Sanit, reveals where she choses to spend quality time in Colombia’s busy capital.

66 BOARDING PASS: AVIANCA Founded in 1919, Avianca is the world's second oldest operating airline after KLM, and many consider Colombia's flag carrier to have pioneered civil aviation

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100 in South America. In the face of increased competition, Latin America’s oldest airline is fighting back by introducing new jets, more routes and improving in-flight services.

78 MY CALI

Publisher and dedicated foodie, Katherine Arujo, insists that you really must salsa in Cali, Colombia’s capital of dance.

80 SPOTLIGHT: MEDELLÍN

Colombia’s second largest metropolis has endured one of the most destructive periods in any modern city’s existence. Now a blossoming cultural centre and one of Latin America’s liveliest and most creative hotbeds, that Medellín has come so far since Escobar’s demise is testament to the resilience and determination of the city’s people. Carmen Ángel walks us through the city’s most special spots.

86 MY MEDELLÍN

One of the country's most celebrated artists, Jorge Julián

CONTENTS

80 Aristizabál, talked to The Cultured Traveller about his hometown of Medellín.

108

88 TASTE & SIP Sophia Brault reviewed Cartagena’s culinary hot spot, María, where chef Alejandro Rámirez is cooking up a storm.

And Nicholas Chrisostomou reviewed Medellín restaurant, Carmen, owned and run by an American-Colombian gastronomic power couple, who have forged a niche in the fine dining scene by reimagining dishes with vitality and flair.

94 THE FOOD Make Carmen restaurant's signature fish dish, de Bahía Solano, using this exclusive recipe by executive chef, Rob Pevitts.

100 MY CARTAGENA The owner of one of Cartagena’s most popular bar and restaurant venues, let’s us in on a few of the city’s best kept secrets.

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February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 09

Editor’s Letter FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016 My maiden visit to Colombia, just over a year ago, was an add-on to a Miami trip. It was a complete revelation to me. I felt like a kid in a travel candy store, tasting sherbet for the first time. The people were so warm and the depth of culture so rich (neither of which I had expected) I just wanted to go back and see more.

Whilst Europeans routinely travel to Australia, which is an awful lot further away than Colombia, South America seems more distant culturally, probably because most of us are creatures of habit. We get so little vacation time that when we do go on holiday we want to know what we're getting, how hot and whether there's Wi-Fi. We instinctively shy away from places which may pose potential challenges. Given the vast number and variety of destinations on our beautiful planet, it's a great shame for those who don't adventure and discover more. Colombia reinforced this for me, more than anywhere I'd visited the past decade. I had no idea that so many naturally spectacular, bio-diverse and fundamentally different regions could exist in one country. Colombia is the only country in South America embraced by the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. In between is a nation of rich flora and fauna unlike anywhere else - including the Amazon rainforest and Andes mountains - together with modern cities, vast farmlands, ancient civilisations and authentic colonial charm.

In recent years Colombia has undergone a remarkable transformation. It has turned the tide on a long running and bloody terrorist insurgency, and made great strides in restoring security and stability to the nation. Today, the country's boundless energy and genuine spirit fill every corner of the land, and music, dance, food, art, fashion and style saturate its cities.

It would be impossible to cover an entire country in one issue, so we’ve carefully chosen a handful of fascinating places which together we think bestow a real feel for this bewitching nation.

Bogotá, Medellín and the historic walled city of Cartagena are all featured, together with a deluxe tree house in the mountainous forest, an eco resort on the rugged northern coast, South America’s best hotel suite and Botero’s former Caribbean vacation pad. Sofía Vergara gives us the lowdown about her home city of Barranquilla, and we even managed to catch-up with multi-Grammy award winning Latin pop star Juanes.

In five years the magical realism will probably have been eroded and the country become a tourist mecca, so now is the time to visit Colombia. You simply must see this Latin American gem while it’s gleaming and unpolished.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

10 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

La Edición COLOMBIANA

Medellín

Sofia Vergara

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

Contributors Jorge Julián Aristizábal Resides: Medellín • Wrote: Traveller Lowdown: My Medellín

Celebrated artist, Jorge Julián Aristizábal, was born in Medellín where he still lives.

He received his BFA from Otis College of Art and Design in LA and his Masters from Goldsmiths in London. Aristizábal’s work has been included in a number of prominent exhibitions around the world, including the VII Biennial of Bogotá at Museo de Arte Moderno de Bogotá, Magical Realism: Figurative Art of the 90’s in Colombia at The Barbican Centre (London), and Queens International at Queens Museum in New York City. Aristizábal has also been the subject of numerous solo exhibitions in Colombia and overseas.

Carmen Ángel Resides: Medellín • Wrote: Spotlight: Medellín Carmen Ángel graduated with a degree in Economics and Business Administration from UC Santa Cruz before attending Le Cordon Bleu culinary academy in San Francisco. She has lived in Medellín since 2008, and owns and operates three restaurants with her father Diego and husband Rob. Ángel has been a contributing gastronomy editor for the Medellín city newspaper, El Colombiano, for more than three years and is addicted to travelling and sampling new cuisines. She has a deep passion for sea urchin, oysters, cheese, saké and cuddling her Siamese cat, Moshi.

Katherine Araujo Resides: Bogotá • Wrote: Traveller Lowdown: My Cali

Born and raised in Cali, Colombia’s salsa capital, Katherine Araujo had the good fortune of growing up with a close affinity to Colombian cuisine thanks her mother, and inherited delicious traditional recipes from her grandma. Araujo studied cooking and hospitality management in Argentina and Switzerland and likes nothing more than seeing the world and eating great food.

Today, she co-publishes the only restaurant guide in Colombia, travels the country researching and selecting the best establishments for the handbook, and steers foodies to the hottest eateries throughout Colombia.

Sophia Brault Resides: Bogotá • Wrote: Taste & Sip: María Of French-American descent, Sophia Brault grew up between New York, California and Paris and her parents publish restaurant guides about fine cuisine. Sophia studied business and hospitality management in Switzerland with a view to continuing the family business.

Brault has been living in Colombia for two years with her partner who she met at school in Switzerland, and with whom she co-publishes Best Restaurants Colombia guide. Brault loves what she does and intend to continue travelling and exploring wonderful and exciting cuisines from around the world, in pursuit of finding what pleases the senses.

752 GOURAUD ST. SAIFI VILLAGE BEIRUT • LEBANON T: +961 76 997 676 M: +961 76 997 676 •BEIRUT•

www.giltbeirut.com

VALLENATO LEGEND FESTIVAL VALLEDUPAR

This is a melodic festival like no other, where both south and some North American artists convene in the spring - and have been doing so since the late 1960s - to present audiences with a generous helping of merengue, folk, paseo and other Latino music. The event usually takes place over four days, and is hosted in April every year

CARNIVAL

EASTER PROCESSION

For the people of Colombia, the start of a new year is not just about fresh goals and aspirations - it also marks the beginning of carnival season. This vibrant, four day extravaganza - the biggest carnival in the world after Rio kicks off in early February, but the party atmosphere in Barranquilla starts weeks earlier, when enthusiastic participants adding finishing touches to elaborate floats and rehearsing dancers can be seen on the city’s streets.

Pre-carnival events include the crowning of King Momo (the leader of carnivals) and the Carnival Queen, and the reading of the Lectura del Bando - a traditional declaration of carnival serves as a call for citizens to begin celebrations. The Queen leads the first day’s festivities with the main event, the Batalla de Flores - an extravaganza of flowers, folk dancing, masked entertainers - with spectators in fancy dress filling the streets to cheer the floats passing by. The Grand Parade on day two features a thrilling, multi-coloured mass of flamboyant characters in lavish, elaborate costumes, all vying for a place in the following year’s main event.

6-9 February 2016 www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org

Easter is the most celebrated of religious festivals in Colombia and the country’s majority Catholic population gets this underway with Semana Santa, or holy week, and the variety of events that commence on Tuesday through to Holy Saturday. Popayán, a historic city in the southern region regarded as the nation’s ‘Religious Capital’ (it has more churches per inhabitant than any other city in Colombia), hosts huge processions and musical shows in its town centre and churches throughout

BARRANQUILLA

12 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

POPAYÁN

the week, with crowds from near and far, as well as overseas visitors, flocking to the area to revere the country’s rich cultural traditions. Popayán is also Latin America’s first UNESCO World City of Gastronomy, and tasty, seasonal food and snacks are served everywhere.

Visitors can join post-procession celebrations or attend concerts performed by local and international musicians. The main event takes place on Good Friday - a parade depicting the passion of Christ prior to his crucifixion.

25-29 March 2016 www.semanasantapopayan.com

in the city of Valledupar - located between the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta and the Serranía del Perijá mountain ranges - within a region of diverse temperatures and terrains, from snowy peaks to hot plains.

Shows at the Vallenato ‘born in the valleys’ festival demonstrate how the music of farm-folk, African slaves and European settlers of the city’s past, influenced and manifested into the Latino sound we associate with the continent today, with the accordion featuring characteristically throughout. Colourful dancers parading the teeming streets is a common sight during Vallenato Legend Festival, as are quick-tongued lyricists - akin to folkloric rappers entertaining locals with their inspired rhetoric. Many other activities take place such as debates and storytelling, and cultural artworks are proudly displayed. The festival helps boost local trade and the region’s economy, with Colombian presidents, dignitaries, international media, personalities and artists attending this valuable and culturally significant affair each year.

25-30 April 2016 www.festivalvallenato.com

FESTIVAL OF WAYUÚ CULTURE URIBIA, LA GUAJIRA

The Wayuú are Colombia’s most prominent indigenous population, notable for keeping with the traditions and lingo of their ancestry. This ethnic group lives in the country’s most northern point, La Guajira - a vast, hot land with a sandy-white Caribbean coast and a broad population of more than half a million. Here, the town of Uribia hosts the Festival of Wayuu Culture, where regional Wayuus and those of the Zulia community that reside in bordering Venezuela, convene to honour the traditions, play the music and dish out the authentic flavours of their respected heritage. The annual cultural event - considered the most important one of its kind in the country - attracts both local citizens and overseas visitors keen to be immersed in the distinctively ethnic atmosphere of colorful pageantry, intricate handicraft, poetry, tribal art exhibits and traditional yonna dances. One of the highlights is the selection of ‘Miss Gold’ - when Wayuú women compete in an ayeishi (sing-off) to determine whose verses contain the most culturally rich dialect and facts.

6-8 May 2016 www.colombia.com

INTERNATIONAL TANGO FESTIVAL MEDELLÍN

Each year tens of thousands of people descend upon Medellín, Colombia’s second largest city, for the annual tango festival; a rhythm-centric celebration that honours this beloved expression of dance and music. Tango may not be classically associated with Colombia, but when the dance’s most famous and adored Argentine performer and composer, Carlos Gardel, died in an aircraft accident at Medellín airport in the mid 1930s, he left a poignant legacy that is now entwined in the musical ethos of the country today. The festival is a four-day tribute to tango, with an inspired array of contests, activities and thrilling shows that pay homage to songwriters, films and documentaries in salute of the vivacious women and history of tango.

Throughout magnificent, classical performances by the Medellín Philharmonic Orchestra fill the air with the entrancing vigor of tango. New enthusiasts, amateurs, proficient dancers and anyone wishing to fully immerse in body and spirit, can attend any of the workshops dedicated to the passionate unity of movement and music that is characteristic of the dance’s style.

Delicious, Argentine foods cater to the hungry and fans purchase memorabilia and collectables at a number of stalls, then take to the streets with everyone else to share in the merriment of it all.

22-26 June 2016 www.festivaldetangomedellin.com

JOROPO INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL VILLAVICENCIO

High in the plains of central Colombia’s Meta district, the city of Villavicencio plays host to a most unique event, attended by approximately half a million people. Essentially an eclectic mix of dance contests, fabulous parades and the crowning of equestrian champions, Joropo has African and European roots and a fast, waltz-like rhythm, and is celebrated in a kaleidoscopic display of

Llanero dance troupes from Colombia and neighbouring Venezuela. Expect to see thousands of smartly dressed men in hats - in ode to the cowboy origins of the movement - partnered with females in bright, frilly dresses that flare as they spin in quick, colourful unison, competing in the Joropodromo tournament for coveted prizes in their appropriate age and competency categories. Other traditions include a food festival, a rodeo with challengers battling it out for top prize as they show off their cattle corralling and other grass-roots skills, a beauty pageant, and an arts and crafts area imbued with the myths and folklore of the Los Llanos.

29 June - 4 July 2016 www.colombia.com

FLOWER FAIR MEDELLÍN

Colombia is the second biggest live flower exporter in the world, and in honour of these fragrant national treasures, Medellín hosts the ‘Flower Party’ which began as the city’s celebration of its thriving floral industry almost sixty years ago. The fiesta now involves a week of arts, culture, cuisine and a customary beauty pageant, all culminating in the stunning parade of the ‘silleteros’ - a tradition that entails men that carry elaborate and magnificently hued floral displays along the main streets of the metropolis. The origin of this ritual is Spanish and depicts the era of the silleteros (derived from the Spanish ‘silla’ – a seat), men whose jobs were to would walk for miles burdening varied cargo on their backs - anything from their wares to sell at a market, to their children, dignitaries or even livestock. The term became synonymous with anyone supporting something on their back using a wooden frame. This is one of Colombia’s most visited festivals, and many prize-winning competitions take place, mostly centered around beauty and colour. It’s definitely a fun filled week if you can handle the pace, with the added bonus of being in one of the most celebrated and cultural cities in Latin America.

29 July - 7 August 2016 www.feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co

FESTIVAL OF THE SEA SANTA MARTA

A country’s proximity and relationship with its natural environment fuels the spirit and heart of a place - and a country surrounded by earth’s biggest oceans would enjoy an inevitably greater marine influence. This is the case with Colombia, where pageants and festivities revering the sea and coastline take place year round. The most prominent is the annual Sea Festival in Santa Marta, the country’s oldest city. Be prepared for non-stop partying, beauty ceremonies bursting with eager hopefuls desperate to win National and International Queens of the Sea accolades, plus fun water-based sports and activities, including the National Marine and Beach Games. Women challenge for the title of Captain of the Sea, and international athletes take part in nautical competitions including kayaking, swimming and sailing. Lively parades fuel the party vibe as do performances by international musicians and singers, and happy visitors can snack on traditional Antioquia dishes like the famed bandeja paisa with pork crackling, mondongo soup and arepas. Visitors can spend their time tanning at one of the pretty beaches by day, and revel in the excitement of balmy nights. Thousands flock here and underline the festival’s slogan “Santa Marta, la magia de tenerlotodo” - Santa Marta, the magic of having it all.

First week August 2016 www.fiestadelmar.com.co

GASTRONOMIC CONGRESS POPAYÁN

Gastronomy is developing at breakneck speed across Colombia, having been previously regionalised due to the inability to safely travel and share produce during the country’s time of civil unrest. This meant the variety of ingredients available to citizens used to be dire, and most people were restricted to the basic provisions they could gather locally. Since then, there’s been a major shift in culinary innovation that has seen the popularity of Colombian cuisine reach new highs. The UNESCO World City of Gastronomy, Popayán, (the only city in Latin America to hold this accolade), is famed for its Mestizaje cuisine, which is a fusion of Spanish, African and Indigenous foods. National and international chefs are invited to host a plethora of events, discussions and meetings, overseen by the best culinary schools in the country. This is an event unique to South America, and is attended by thousands of global foodies that delight in rigorous academic research of innovative new foodstuffs as well as the more prevalent, nationally grown ingredients.

1-4 September 2016 www.gastronomicopopayan.org

WORLD SALSA FESTIVAL CALI

‘The capital of Salsa’ is a fitting term for this vibrant yet petite city, located in the Andean valleys in the east of the country. Kicking off in a flurry of heels and tight, sequined costumes in 2005, the World Salsa Festival is now one of the planet’s largest dance competitions, and attracts global visitors that enjoy the spectacle and partaking in the all night contests and celebrations.

International teams hailing from Latin America, the USA and Europe meet at the salsa fiesta in a show of intensely dazzling moves, hoping to be crowned the Kings and Queens of Salsa amongst their fierce competitors while awe-struck spectators cheer on.

Hundreds of musicians flood the city and fill the air with tune during this week of aural splendor. Meanwhile everyone is encouraged to visit one of the hundred or more official salsa schools in Cali, to take part in workshops with other students, young and old, of varying abilities and experience.

6-10 September 2016 www.mundialdesalsa.com

GREEN MOON FESTIVAL SAN ANDRÉS ISLAND

San Andrés forms part of the Archipelago of its namesake and the nearby islands of Providencia and Santa Catalina, surrounded by ‘the sea of seven colours’ - declared

by UNESCO as World Biosphere Reserves due to the area’s immense biodiversity.

Islanders believe in the mysticism and magic of the ‘green moon’ and its power to make the wishes of those who dream of it come true. This rich Caribbean culture and miles of breathtaking coastline make it an idyllic destination and, of course, offers more excuses to celebrate. The islander music is influenced by European colonists and Africans, and the festival is founded of the tropical rhythms of calypso, reggae, soul, gospel and other musical genres, combined to create a distinctly native island sound. International performance ensembles from neighbouring Caribbean nations such as Haiti and Jamaica are also invited to take part, with guest musicians flying in all over the world.

Mid September 2016 www.facebook.com/fundacion.greenmoon 12 14 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

OPERA IN THE PARK BOGOTÁ

The capital is home to the oldest standing opera house in Colombia - the Teatro de Cristóbal Colón - ranked one of the top three in the world and declared a national monument in 1975. Three classical radio stations - rivalled in listener numbers by Paris only - operate within its walls to support the wider reach of this grand and respected art-form, and entertain the thriving fan-base. The rising popularity of opera throughout the decades culminated in Colombia’s first showcase in 2007 - now an annual event, free for all to enter - held in the city’s spaces, public parks and outdoor venues that were reclaimed to make culture accessible for each and every Colombian.

The Bogotá Philharmonic Orchestra feature exclusively during the opera segments, and many national and international high profile guests are also invited to entertain the vastly diverse audiences with their individual sounds and specially composed and adapted pieces performed alongside more traditional works.

17-26 October 2016 www.filarmonicabogota.gov.co

INDEPENDENCE OF CARTAGENA & MISS COLOMBIA PAGEANT

HAY FESTIVAL CARTAGENA

The Hay Festival - which originated in Hay-On-Wye in Wales in 1988 - has grown into one of the most renowned and critically acclaimed literary festivals in the world. In addition to hosting high profile and emerging writers, guests and speakers regularly include politicians, economists, musicians, scientists, comedians, philosophy lecturers and film industry professionals. In 2007 the Hay launched in Cartagena as a means to include Nobel Prize winner Gabriel García Márquez as star speaker. It is rumoured that until then, he blatantly refused invitations to attend the festival

CARTAGENA

Two aspects of Colombian living are endemic and unite the country as a whole: football and beauty pageants.

The city of Cartagena was the first to gain independence from the Spanish in 1811, and the importance of this is has been commemorated as a national holiday of week-long celebrations across the Caribbean municipality since 1934. The illustrious crowning of Miss Colombia, who goes on to represent the country at the international Miss Universe contest, is a most prestigious affair, with the majority of Colombians willingly celebrating and honouring the most beautiful, poised and intelligent girls among the country’s population.

The prestige of being crowned winner is wholly supported by the media, with nightly live updates of each heat broadcast across all the major news networks. Contestants are judged not only on their appearance but also their socially conscientious outlooks, charitable deeds and sense of responsibility towards their fellow women. Events during the seven days include carnival, marine regattas, live music concerts, and wonderfully choreographed, show-stopping pageants.

7-14 November 2016 www.srtacolombia.org

FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS VILLA DE LEYVA

This quaint town of cobbled streets is one of the prettiest and most authentic in the country, having undergone almost no change in the last 400 years.

As a result it has kept its colonial charm and architecture, and offers a wonderful destination for overseas visitors. The month of December sees many nationwide events leading up to Christmas, with the Dia De Las Velitas (day of the little candles) being one of the loveliest. On the night of 7 December, Colombians light candles, lanterns and bonfires all over the country, an old tradition that originates from 1854, which was held in honour of the Virgin Mary and her immaculate conception. Christmas carols, fireworks and a procession with effigies of the Virgin Mary create an ethereal and uplifting welcome to the religious holiday season - and the location of the town just a few hours from the capital, offers some of the clearest and starriest sky views that can be seen from earth.

6-8 December 2016 www.villadeleyva-boyaca.gov.co

in the UK. The launch of the Hay in Cartagena coincided with the 40th anniversary of the release of Márquez’s book, One Hundred Years of Solitude.

Nowadays the festival provides students, journalists, members of the public and writers from near and far an opportunity to gather - in a wonderfully tropical and culturing inspiring city - to freely discuss and share ideas. Hay gives writers a chance to meet and converse with their literary heroes and contemporaries, and has become the most important literary event in Latin America.

28-31 January 2017 www.hayfestival.com

W BOGOTA W Bogota electrified the city's hospitality industry when it opened in December 2014, shaking-up the capital's hotels in a South American blender of colour, fashion, design and music.

The 46th W hotel globally and the third in Latin America (after W Santiago and W Mexico City) is strategically located in the exclusive Santa Barbara business area of Colombia's throbbing capital, within walking distance of the Usaquén neighbourhood which boasts restaurants, bars and boutiques aplenty. Little more than a year after premiering, W Bogota has already established itself as the capital's coolest place to rest your head, not to mention eat, sip, hang out and party. The brand's DNA has very much come of age in South America's latest W hotel. In this property, the designers, Studio Gaia, have skillfully combined the funkiest elements of the W brand with some slightly more grown-up touches, resulting in a playful, happening city-centre hotel, which is perfectly balanced between business and boogie.

The ancient rituals and precious elements of the Colombian myth of El Rey Dorado (the golden king) are brought to life throughout the hotel, and manifest themselves by way of bright colours, shiny detailing and metallic finishes all over the place, cleverly breaking-up the modern furnishings with touches of fun and glamour. At the epicentre of the hotel’s social life is its living room and bar, known as W Lounge, bedecked with curved banquette seating accented by gold embellishments, separated by floor-to-ceiling silky gold frill curtains, all presided over by a huge piece of urban art by Vertigo Graffiti. W Lounge is rebellious teenager, hipster socialite and fashion-forward businessman all rolled into one. It’s impossible not to drop-in for a cocktail upon an evening. Ginger Margarita and Lulo Mojito are the house specialities and just too moreish to stop at one.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Culinary Concepts is behind the hotel’s on-site restaurant, Market Kitchen, where chef Emiliano Rabía Sottil’s farm-to-table menu doesn't disappoint, whether you're looking for sashimi, salmon or short ribs. After dinner, if you’re lucky enough to be staying at W Bogota, you’ll not have far to travel after a visit to Au Room, the hotel’s chic nightclub, where the DJ spins ‘til 5am over the weekend. In no time at all, Au Room has already become one of the city’s hottest nightspots.

All of the hotel's 168 guestrooms and suites feature a huge 360° mirror to check-out how fierce you look before heading out to wherever your Bogotá night-on-the-town may take you.

Panoramic city vistas or mountain views outside the windows provide a spectacular contrast to the modern room interiors, attired in bright leathers, printed vinyls, patterned cushions and gold accents. All guestrooms include a signature W Bed, Bliss amenities and a well-equipped MixBar. For a one-bedroom suite with sweeping uninterrupted views of the Bogotá cityscape, book Fantastic Suite 1411. The sunsets and sunrises from this room are incredible.

For those with serious cash to splash, the Extreme WOW suite (W’s incarnation of a traditional presidential suite) is a sprawling, playboy party pad, boasting multiple lounge spaces, a central bar with foosball table, killer sound system, in-room cinema, oversized bathtub, gold mosaicked shower and a huge, one-of-a-kind graffiti-printed bed. W Bogota’s Extreme WOW suite is without doubt the most glitzy hotel room in the city, in keeping with the rest of this sophisticated slice of contemporary Colombian hospitality. www.sixsenses.com

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Rest Your Head

BogotĂĄ, Providencia Island, MedellĂ­n, Pereira, Cartagena, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Santa Marta , Cali, Barranquilla, Apulo

PROVIDENCIA ISLAND DEEP BLUE Off the coast of Cartagena lie the archipelagoes of Rosario and San Bernardo, veritable coral paradises boasting mangrove islets, small bijou hotels, restaurants and beach clubs, the best of which is El Pescador de Colores, a sea lounge & restaurant owned by Portia and Lina on the island of Barú. If you only have time for one beach day whilst visiting the islands, make it this place www.elpescadordecolores.com.

Some 480 miles from the Colombian coast, the archipelagoes of San Andres and Providencia form an oasis of life amid the sea, with their picturesque islands, keys and reefs. Providencia is a 15-minute flight (or 2-hour catamaran ride) from San Andres, 140 miles off Nicaragua’s Atlantic coast but part of Colombia. Largely because of its history as a base for English pirates, Providencia is mostly English speaking. It's on the English-speaking side of the island that you'll find Deep Blue, one of the Caribbean's hidden hotel gems, surrounded by stunning turquoise waters on one side and lush tropical forest on the other, with gorgeous clear views towards Crab Caye from its sundecks and the McBean Lagoon Marine National Park just 100 metres away by kayak. Deep Blue has been welcoming guests for more than 20 years, and following a complete refurb, won Best Boutique Hotel in Colombia 2013 awarded by the Association of Colombian Travel Journalists. Once you've visited Deep Blue and experienced the incredible location, it's not hard to see why guests return again and again. Its enviable position, perched on the edge of the sea, is truly privileged.

Browns and creams, wood and wicker, shells and stone lend a natural vibe to the design, and in reverence to the environment, decking and stairs have been constructed around palm trees. Attentive staff keep guests refreshed with cold towels, fans and ice cream. Deep blue throws and pillows echo the stunning Caribbean views, while specially commissioned artworks mix with shells and starfish along the walls in the airy, modern rooms. Embroidered textiles add a loungey, barefoot vibe. Natural stone bathrooms have oversized showers and are stocked with L’Occitane products. Suites benefit from their own private plunge pools. Ending a lazy day by dining on fresh lobster, under the stars at the end of the hotel's wooden jetty, is a culinary experience and sensory delight not to be missed. www.hoteldeepblue.com

February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 19

SITES Medellín is a bustling and happening city which you are going to want to explore, experience and enjoy. Even if you wanted to kick-back and relax in decadent luxury in Colombia's second city, you'd be unable to do so due to the limited variety of available accommodation. Medellín is not a city of hotel penthouses, corner suites, duplex lofts and designer crash pads. The city has only recently woken-up to tourism, and so it will be a few more years before any of the 5* deluxe hotel chains land in Pablo Escobar's former stomping ground. Anyway, when visiting a city of such rich and colourful heritage - not to mention such a dramatic and tumultuous recent past - your lodgings need only be somewhere to wake, change, drop-off shopping, refresh, catch-up with emails and rest your head.

Whilst there are a few good 4* hotels in the city (the best of which is Park 10 www.hotelpark10.com.co), plus a cluster of well-located, style-led, wannabe-boutique hotels in the epicentre of the Parque Lleras melting pot (the best of which is The Charlee - although don't book a room here unless you plan to party www.thecharlee.com), you really don't need to be paying over the odds for a room you're unlikely to use for little more than bathing and sleeping. We are in Colombia after all - and Piasas know how to have fun, even midweek! So The Cultured Traveller suggests, when visiting Medellín, that you find a funky flat on Airbnb or book into a modern self-catering apartment hotel which is functional, central and serves a hearty breakfast so you don't start a busy day of sightseeing on an empty stomach. Sites ticks all these boxes and is located in El Poblado, one of the most exclusive and quiet areas of the busy metropolis, yet surrounded by malls, shops and restaurants and ideally placed for discovering all the charms and attractions of Medellín.

Staff are warm, knowledgeable and friendly and all rooms offer king size beds, a pillow menu, free Wi-Fi, large screen Smart TVs and kitchenettes with a fridge and microwave. At 60m², Sites' apartment category resembles a conventional hotel suite, with two bathrooms, a separate lounge with fold-out queen size bed, full kitchen and balcony, plus a main bedroom with 400-thread count bed linen.

At the top of the building on the 12th floor, a wellness area consisting of a solarium, Jacuzzi and Turkish bath is available for guests to relax after a hectic day, plus there's a fully equipped gym, BBQ terrace, library (not that you'll have a spare moment in Medellín), conference room and plenty of indoor parking for the hire car you'll probably need to zip around the city. www.en.siteshotel.com

PEREIRA

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MEDELLÍN

SAZAGUA Colombia’s coffee region is filled with hotels, but most are rustic lodgings occupying former haciendas, a little rough around the edges when it comes to guest amenities and somewhat lacking on the luxury front. We can't recommend any of these to our readers. But if you venture deeper into the heart of Triángulo del Café (the Coffee Triangle), to the Colombian Paisa region in the country’s rural district, famous for the growing and production of the majority of Colombian coffee (considered by some as the best in the world), you will reach Sazagua which offers an altogether different level of hospitality, far above the average standard for the area.

Located in Pereira - the most visited city in the Municipality of Risaralda - 10-bedroom Sazagua is an upscale guesthouse for special travellers. Designed with care, decorated with love, furnished with style and filled with the kind of personal touches and amenities that appeal to high-end international travellers, tired of shiny, cookie-cutter 5-star hotels, a few nights at Sazagua is more akin to staying at a friend's warm and inviting home rather than a pit stop.

The building evokes the local architecture: wooden framed, spacious corridors, colonial flooring, Spanish tiles, vibrant colors and plenty of natural light. The decor is eclectic and fanciful, combining furnishings and objets d'art from different time periods and countless locations around the globe. Married with an interesting art collection, the result is playful, entertaining and overall supremely homely. Rooms and suites are individual, comfortable, refined and surrounded by rolling lawns and spectacular well-tended gardens, featuring an array of beautiful palms and tropical plants that attract a wide variety of birds. At the end of the garden is the unique and highly regarded Prana spa, fashioned from large river rocks and awash with natural stone, wood and bamboo. Fountains and soft lighting accents contribute to an all round feeling of relaxation and calm, and its treatment rooms (including one for couples) adjoin a large circular whirlpool bath, relaxation room, sauna and steam cabin. Sazagua’s restaurant is perhaps one of the best eateries in the region. Fine crockery and glassware accompany an international menu with some added Colombian dishes, and service is swift and friendly, as it is throughout the property. The room to book is the spacious Premium Suite - with a library, private terrace and massive bathroom - costing USD 200/night during high season. www.sazagua.com

SOFITEL LEGEND SANTA CLARA

Constantly name-checked by seasoned travellers, international jet-setters and upwardly mobile hipsters as the only place to stay in the old city (declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1984), the colonial Sofitel Legend Santa Clara stands tall perched behind the northerly edge of the old fortress walls surrounding picturesque Cartagena. The hotel was carved from the shell of a 17th century convent for the Nuns of the Order of St. Claire, known as the ‘Clarisas’, and from a location point of view, Santa Clara's really is one of the best addresses in Cartagena. It's central position, on the edge of a quaint square in the San Diego neighbourhood - is at the epicentre of the city, within a few minutes walk of all that's hot and happening. This is an undeniable draw to wealthy South Americans and tourists alike, wanting to stay in the thick of things, whilst being able to escape from the heated melange and be immersed in 5* luxury and plush surroundings when the need arises.

Originally built in 1621, the historic Spanish architecture is offset throughout by contemporary chic decor, with modern designer touches and numerous works by Colombia’s greatest artists breaking-up the imposing structure, making Santa Clara both a gorgeous and cozy place to rest your head. The hotel retains many of the building’s original features, and upon arrival - after being greeted by a white-suited, top-hatted Clef D’Or concierge - should they wish, guests are escorted on a fascinating tour of the property’s historical treasures, including hidden windows, priceless paintings, confessionals and even cannon balls recovered from pirate attacks. We especially love Olga de Amaral’s shimmering gold leaf tapestry in the entrance, Fernando Botero’s chubby bronze on the patio, and the toucans in the courtyard, brimming with tropical plants and crowded with vines. It is little wonder that Santa Clara has hosted many heads of state and pop stars, and the rich and famous continue to flood through its huge, ancient wooden doors.

Rooms are either contemporary or colonial in design, split between those in the old convent building and the rest flanking the swimming pool in the converted hospital wing. The best of these are on the top floor with views of the Caribbean Sea. Santa Clara's premium accommodations are its 17 recently-refurbished high-ceilinged suites that face onto the central courtyard. Duplex suite C54 boasts two Juliet balconies that open directly onto the picturesque square below and unobstructed views towards Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, Cartagena's famous fortress. Small touches for guests - like a ribboned and gift-wrapped copy of Gabriel García Márquez’s Of Love and Other Demons (set in the convent) waiting in your suite on arrival - quickly endear you to the charismatic hotel.

The former home of the renowned Colombian author neighbours the hotel. And once you realise that you can stroll back from pretty much any club or bar late at night, the charms of Santa Clara are even more alluring. This is one hotel which anyone visiting Colombia should experience, budget permitting of course, since such luxuries and attention to detail do not come cheap. At Santa Clara however, spending for such supreme luxury and incredible service is worth every peso. www.sofitel-legend.com

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CARTAGENA

BOGOTÁ THE ORCHIDS The elegance and beauty of Colombia’s national flower are embodied at the eponymous Orchids hotel, located in the city’s cultural district of La Candelaria in downtown Bogotá.

The hotel’s location in this historic neighborhood, brimming with baroque and colonial buildings, means that many attractions are within easy walking distance, including Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), Museo Botero and Luis Ángel Arango Library - Latin America’s most visited public library and a must for literary aficionados.

The traditional entrance of this boutique establishment - residing amongst the colourful architectural landscape of Bogotá’s oldest district - subtly disguises the opulent accommodation beyond the imposing front door. Visitors ring a bell and wait to be permitted to enter Orchids, such is its exclusivity.

Built in 1892 as a house, the building was transformed into a hotel in 2009. The decor in Orchids’ eight, spacious and individually-designed rooms is neo-classical, with each being named after a famous opera. All feature wooden panelling, art nouveau carved headboards, stately furniture, Murano pieces, a working fireplace, silver-embroidered linens, dining table and oversized Jacuzzi bath. Natural light is plentiful. French, British and Italian influences abound, renaissance artwork an ode to the operatic theme. All are a touch French boudoir. The contrast of modern bathrooms and antiques is a little curious but at the same time playful and inviting.

The hotel’s premium suite, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, is furnished with an intricately carved four-poster bed that majestically resides beneath an impressively high, embossed ceiling, providing a grand place to slumber for guests of an imperial persuasion. A private plane, as well as butler and personal shopping services, can be made available to those desiring a truly indulgent stay.

Enjoy an afternoon of calm in the Oscar Wilde library, or spend an evening sipping the local staple santafereño - a rich, hot-chocolate beverage served with cheese - in the hotel’s Marcel Proust courtyard. Whilst Orchids doesn’t have a dedicated onsite restaurant, meals prepared by celebrated chef, Harry Sasson, can be ordered à la carte and served in the Rossini Dining Room, an elegant space capable of seating up to 24 people for a social event or private dinner party. www.theorchidshotel.com

24 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

CRA. 1 1 # 93-77, BO G OTÁ, CU N D IN AM ARCA - TEL : 5 7 ( 1 ) 7 4 3 0 4 0 4

facebo o k.co m/clickclackh o t e l

@cl i ck cl a ck h ote l

CARTAGENA

BASTION The Bastion opened just a couple of years ago located in the heart of the old walled city, a delightful mix of traditional architecture, contemporary design and modern styling within a four storey 18th century colonial house. Stepping into the Bastion is a little magical, because its unassuming exterior conceals a surprisingly large, airy and inviting reception. Since the main characteristics of the original house have been skilfully retained, the principal entrance, salon and lobby remain in the same positions as they were when the building was first erected. Once inside the hotel, tiled floors, tall windows and soaring ceilings make the most of the space and create a cool, relaxing vibe, whilst plentiful chandeliers, wrought iron detailing and oversized sofas contribute to the warm, comforting and restful aura. Guests are mostly fabulous New York couples, upwardly mobile European tourists and fashionable South American families.

The hotel’s 51 rooms and suites are dressed in neutral hues, with fabrics and furnishings courtesy of Colombian designers. The interiors are light and fresh with high ceilings that are framed in hand-carved wooden posts by local artisans, offering a cool space to relax from the tropical climate outside. All doors, blinds and carpentry work have been fashioned out of recycled wood from the original building, and the superb beds boast crisp sheets, soft mattress toppers and numerous pillows. Views are either of the Caribbean Sea, city rooftops or the pretty, central, naturally lit courtyard.

Subtle lighting and a bijou pool in the main courtyard hint at the Middle East, albeit with a neoclassical flavour, and a number of elegant art pieces and striking sculptures are dotted around the property, breaking up the pristine décor with eye-catching artistic delight.

Enjoy breakfast through to sundowners on Bastion’s splendid roof terrace - a Cartagena classic - which boasts panoramic vistas of the surrounding area. Or cool off by the pool with a delicious cocktail selected from the hotel’s comprehensive drinks menu. There’s a spa and massage area for guests to relax and unwind - as well as an onsite gym and solarium - complete with a tantalising range of pampering possibilities.

For a delicious onsite gastronomical experience, hotel guests need only walk a few paces to feast on the creative cooking of the much-celebrated Rausch brothers, at their renowned El Gobernador restaurant. Here dishes are prepared using local ingredients and modern techniques and lovingly delivered to the table like works of art. www.bastionluxuryhotel.com

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CASA GALAVANTA

Tayrona National Park extends to almost 100 miles between the deep blue waters of the Caribbean stretching North to the horizon, and the tallest mountain range in Colombia, the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Thick misty jungles, snowcapped peaks, rare and unusual creatures, ancient lost cities and isolated indigenous cultures have steeped these mountains in myth and intrigue since they were first discovered by conquering Spanish invaders. The Kogi people are among only a handful of pre-Colombian civilisations in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta whose culture and way of life survived the Spanish conquest. The Kogi regard their mountainous homeland as the heart of the world.

Rising to more than 5,700 meters above the blue waters of the Caribbean Sea only 26 miles away, the Sierra Nevada is the highest coastal mountain range on Earth and its diverse ecologies and isolation at the edge of the continent make it geographically, biologically and culturally unique for people who live there and visit. Casa Galavanta is a private wooden lodge sitting at 1,500masl in the heart of this lushness, between dense rainforest and coffee fields, accessible by only the toughest of 4x4 vehicles and an experienced driver. This makes getting to the house all the more thrilling, as the vehicle in which you're travelling shudders, leans and bumps its way up the hillside. This is not a journey for the faint-hearted but is well worth the theatrical ride. From Casa Galavanta's sprawling timber decks, guests enjoy breathtaking vistas of the wild surrounding jungle and clear views of the sea beyond. These are jaw-dropping vistas, which showcase the incredible variety in landscapes, climates and surroundings that Colombia has to offer.

The ecology surrounding Casa Galavanta is particularly special, due to the dramatic cloud forest formations that hover around the house, sheltering an amazing diversity of flora and fauna, making this is a world renowned destination for birdwatchers, who frequent the region to glimpse more than 600 bird species.

Inside, Casa Galavanta has been designed to offer a high level of comfort whilst preserving the view and impact of its glorious natural surroundings.

The house skillfully blends into its location and makes the very best of its unique position. During The Cultured Traveller’s stay at this one-of-a-kind vacation home, we affectionately renamed it the ‘luxury tree house in the sky’, since at times especially when a flood of clouds rose up from the valley below and rolled into the house - it honestly felt like we were part of the sky. Three double bedrooms en-suite - each decked out with premium linen, deep duvets, oversized pillows and a traditional hammock in which to laze and gaze provided ample space for three couples to share the Casa Galavanta experience. Meanwhile a full-time chef, English-speaking host and housekeeper were on hand (but not resident) to care for our every need. The only thing we lacked during our stay was decent Wi-Fi, but once we caught sight of the tremendous views and soaked in the magnificent environmental beauty, we didn’t give a second thought to the digital world. www.galavanta.com 28

SIERRA NEVADA DE SANTA MARTA

SANTA MARTA HOTEL BOUTIQUE DON PEPE Ten years ago you'd rarely see a tourist in Santa Marta, South America's oldest surviving city. At best it was used as a stopover point for visitors looking to trek through Tayrona National Park or hike to the Lost City. Guerrillas controlled the city and it wasn't entirely safe for locals let alone visitors. Santa Marta's transformation began with a government crackdown on illegal drug and paramilitary activity, and the efforts paid off. Perhaps the best monument to the city’s rebirth is the gleaming marina that anchors the waterfront; huge, visually spectacular and capable of handling more than 250 yachts, it wouldn’t look out of place in Dubai. Away from the seafront, the city abounds with Spanish colonial charm. Following the pedestrianisation of some streets off Parque Simón Bolívar, and the renovation of Parque de los Novios next to Santa Marta's most historic monuments, the city centre has gained a lot more charm and tourism is on the up. The climate is still hot, but the heat here is drier than Cartagena and the evening sea breeze cools the city and makes it positively delightful to wander around. The city’s reputation as an up-and-coming party spot is also growing, with new bars and clubs opening regularly.

In the very centre of Santa Marta, just two blocks from the seafront, is a wonderful 12-room house spread over three floors, originally a 16th century convent. Now owned by Juan Ignacio, son of Don Pepe Vives who purchased the house twenty years ago, this beautiful example of classic colonial architecture is Hotel Boutique Don Pepe. Pretty much every palm-fringed inch of this delightful boutique hotel presents a tempting opportunity to stop, disconnect and drop out. Be it on a swinging hammock in a quiet corner, in an oversized armchair on the terrace, on a deep-buttoned sun lounger by the pool or lying on a massage table in the hotel’s airy Pevonia spa. Come late afternoon, sunset cocktails cool down guests as a gentle breeze whips up from the bay just a few hundred metres away.

Dinner at onsite Bacota restaurant delivers tasty dishes bursting with international flavours, creatively composed using local ingredients, and served by friendly, attentive staff. In a city which is relatively new to tourists compared to the rest of Colombia, Hotel Boutique Don Pepe is doing everything just right. www.facebook.com/hotelboutiquedonpepe

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CALI ACQUA SANTA Colombia’s third largest city, Santiago de Cali, is located in the country’s southwestern region and was founded in 1536 by Sebastián de Belalcázar. It was a sleepy little mountain town until sugar and coffee brought prosperity to the region. After drug kingpin Pablo Escobar was killed in 1993 and the Medellín Cartel fell apart, the remaining drug traffickers moved to Cali and formed the Cali Cartel. Nowadays Cali is the sporting capital of Colombia, with three 18-hole golf courses, two 9-hole courses and countless opportunities for adventure sports in local parks, hills and mountains close by. Of course Cali is also most famous for being the city of the sultry salsa dance, and is renowned for its hot, spirited and sexually charged dance floors. Cali is where the Salsa World Championships happen and where more salsa is danced socially in the world today. It would be criminal to visit Cali and not drop into one of the city’s many salsa clubs for an evening of Caribbean rhythm danced in Colombians’ own unique way.

Situated in the exclusive Ciudad Jardin garden neighbourhood, in the southernmost part of Cali yet within easy reach of the city centre, Acqua Santa is surrounded by lush greenery and stunning natural vegetation. This part of Cali is home to some of the wealthiest Colombians, and so Acqua Santa is something of a find in such a distinguished neighbourhood. This exceptional little boutique hotel offers individually-designed lofts laden with facilities, with a choice of six duplex or single-storey units, all of which are generously proportioned, light, bright and airy. Each is equipped with the modern traveller in mind, and includes iPad-controlled room electronics, full entertainment system, private terrace and personal hot tub. Most also boast well-appointed kitchens - though the delicious meals served at the onsite Italian restaurant are temptation enough not to cook. Room rates include a charming and nourishing element: a cooked-to-order breakfast, served any time on any day, for the duration of your stay. www.acquasantahotel.com

MOVICH BURÓ 51

Known as the Golden Gate of the Atlantic, Barranquilla was not an especially popular vacation destination in the past. However present day local municipality commitments, to elevate the quality of guest accommodation and services throughout the city, are rapidly changing this. The recent multi-million dollar investment in the country’s carnival capital by Colombian hotel operators, Movich, is proving to be a boom to the city’s tourism sector, guiding it towards a bigger and brighter future.

Movich Buró 51 has been one of the most important projects for the chain, since Barranquilla has had one of the highest economic growth rates of any Colombian city in recent years. Movich works with leading Portuguese interior designer, Nini Andrade Silva, and Buró 51 was her eighth hospitality project for the rapidly expanding chain. The hotel is located in an exclusive part of the city, Buenavista, an area with the most modern infrastructure and therefore an important commercial, business and residential hub. The exterior of the property created quite a stir in local hospitality circles, since it presented an interesting and dramatically different architectural style to that of other properties locally. Palms and a colourful floral frontage welcome guests. Inside the design is radically different to what is usually seen in Barranquilla’s tropical setting. Artworks and sculptures abound and the designer has used wood, leather, metal and a multitude of other finishes to create a polished and slick property. The hotel consists of 150 elegant yet functional rooms, including seven junior suites, a presidential suite and a VIP lounge located on the executive floor. An in-house spa, with Turkish bath and sauna, offers a multitude of therapies, and the rooftop pool and terrace offer guests panoramic, uninterrupted views of the city. www.movichhotels.com

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BARRANQUILLA

ENTREMONTE WELLNESS HOTEL & SPA

Literally meaning ‘between mountains’, Entremonte is a wellness sanctuary surrounded by vivid green flora, wild orchids and mountain-pure air, tucked-in at the foot of the Apulo mountains, 480masl and just a two-hour drive from Bogotá's El Dorado Airport.

The first inhabitants of this hilly region teeming with macaws, was the Panches Síquima tribe, that resided at the confluence of the rivers Apulo and Bogotá. The natural beauty and un-spoilt richness of the green and lush landscape remain to this day, as the area is infrequently visited by tourists.

Entremonte is Colombia's only dedicated wellness hotel and spa, devoted to re-harmonising your body with nature, through sunrise, sunset and zenith yoga sessions plus personalised spa treatments.

Each of Entremonte's 29 thatched cabanas feature a bio-climactic roof, designed to eliminate the need for air-conditioning, along with an interior garden and a small private heated pool.

On-site facilities include the Water Valley hydrotherapy area - with an outdoor swimming pool, sauna, hammam and Jacuzzi - and the serene Guacamayas spa area, offering a range of treatments and therapies. Outdoor activities available on the property or close by include yoga and tai-chi, cycling, walking, mountain biking and hiking. There's even golf nearby for those who wish to use their down time to improve their handicap.

As one might expect from a wellness retreat, the cuisine at Entremonte is healthy and balanced, designed by experts and prepared with the highest quality organic and natural produce.

Needless to say fizzy drinks and fried food never appear on the menu! Most ingredients used are harvested from the on-site vegetable garden, or bought directly from peasant communities in the area. This enables Entremonte’s chef to serve food that is fresh and delicious, to perfectly compliment the delightful surrounding environment and warm climate. www.entremonte.com

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APULO

BOGOTÁ

COLOMBIA’S HIGH ALTITUDE HIGH OCTANE CAPITAL

E

WRITTEN BY NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

E

ven a seasoned traveller doesn't quite know what to expect when venturing to Colombia for the first time.

One would be unwise to visit any South American country - especially one with such a turbulent past without some degree of preparation and a touch of trepidation. My maiden visit to Colombia was also my first experience of Latin America so it was a whole new world for me. South America had always seemed just a little too far away, both in terms of flying and civilisation, so it wasn't on

my list of immediate must visit places. But my first time in Bogotá - a year ago via Miami - was an eye opener and hooked me sufficiently to necessitate a more leisurely return.

There's a fine line between a drug cartel war zone and a funky cosmopolitan city, and it was obvious, that first visit, that Bogotá was the latter. Whilst not conventionally pretty and not immediately captivating like Cartagena, Colombia's capital is a veritable treasure trove of culture, brimming with artistic gems spread between its colourful neighbourhoods,

Whilst not conventionally pretty or immediately captivating like Cartagena, Colombia's capital is a veritable treasure trove of culture, brimming with artistic gems spread between its colourful neighbourhoods.

CATEDRAL PRIMADA February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 37

PLAZA DE BOLÍVAR

LA CANDELARIA

LA CANDELARIA

and the country’s thriving gastronomy scene has led to a especially tourist savvy. The first time I visited Bogotá the SIM boom in upscale eateries in Bogotá. buying process was painful and I wasted an entire morning of This trip I flew direct from London and the journey time my first day in a 'phone shop. Some taxi drivers can also be a was less than 11 hours so Colombia felt closer and more bit sharp with tourists so you need to be aware. Thankfully on accessible than previously. Flying direct to a new destination this trip I was staying at W Bogota, so the hotel's efficient is always advisable - since you disembark less frazzled and WhateverWhenever service pre-organised a SIM before I more susceptible to new experiences - and since Bogotá is a checked-in, and the in-house car service took me everywhere I busy, modern metropolis you need to have your wits about wanted to go for USD12/hour in an SUV. But if you're not you. At roughly 8,700 feet above sea level, the city’s 8 million staying at an international 5* you must do some prep work inhabitants live, before landing at work and play El Dorado airport, here and move especially if you The city’s 8 million inhabitants live, work and play around the streets want to hit the here and move around the streets with haste. with haste. You’ll ground running You’ll rarely see someone loitering in Bogotá since rarely see and make the most someone loitering of your time in the most people are in the city to do business. in Bogotá since capital of most people are in Colombian cool. the city to do business. Many of them also shop in high-end To understand Bogotá's scale (in South America only São boutiques and eat very well indeed. Judging by some of the Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires are bigger cities), looks I got when walking the streets, Colombia's high altitude head up to Monserrate (www.cerromonserrate.com), a capital doesn't revolve around foreign visitors. Everything is religious sanctuary set in lush forested mountains for locals and tourists, in many parts of the city, are not two a overlooking the Colombian capital. Take the funicular to the penny. This is refreshing if you're looking to experience a summit and find yourself with Bogotá’s vast urban frenzy genuine South American city. Photography is not permitted in on one side and the virtually deserted green Andes on the Bogotá's splendid churches and you won't get pestered by other. Monserrate's 17th century church is rather pretty. street hawkers. Armed guards positioned around the Order a glass of wine at 35-year old mountaintop restaurant presidential palace are polite and helpful - some even pose for Casa San Isidro (www.restaurantecasasanisidro.com) and photos. But things get a little tricky if, like me, you don't soak-in the majestic views. Descend using the recently speak a word of Spanish, since the nation's capital is not refurbished footpath - it's a lovely downhill walk.

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MUSEO BOTERO

CASA DE NARIÑO

PLAZA DE BOLÍVAR

Once you’ve got your bearings, your first city stop must architect Pietro Cantini and its neo-classical facade sits be La Candelaria, Bogotá's charming historic quarter, named comfortably within Candelaria. The grand old theatre after one of the city’s first churches, Our Lady of the reopened a year ago after more than a half-decade of Candlemas. Here, stretches of urban jungle give way to a renovation. The ceiling mural is breathtaking. Housed in a centuries-old barrio of cobblestoned streets and brightly handsome villa nearby and free to the public, the Botero coloured colonial buildings. Restored one and two-storey Museum opened 15 years ago after the Medellín-born artist, pastel painted houses are interspersed with restaurants, Fernando Botero, donated 208 works - 123 of his own plus 85 boutique hotels, stylish bars, bijou art galleries and cafés by international painters - to the Bank of the Republic’s art serving chicha, a potent hooch distilled from maize. Once collection. Here you can see works by Renoir, Monet and derided as Picasso as well as unrefined, chicha a huge collection has become of Boteros. The The Gold Museum is home to the largest collection increasingly modern sunny of pre-Colombian gold artifacts in the world, and popular in café out back is here you can trace the history of the precious metal Colombia, with the perfect place several chicherías for a pit stop in and how it shaped a religion and nation. operating in the between walking area. These along the museum's with elderly men playing backgammon on the pavements, galleries. Across the road, Biblioteca Luis Ángel Arango is women swathed in blankets selling alpaca sweaters on the Latin America’s most visited public library and a must for tight teeming streets, and the abundance of characterful literary aficionados. Nearby Museo del Oro (the gold architecture topped with Spanish-style tiled roofs, all lend an museum) is home to the largest collection of pre-Colombian old village atmosphere to the area. For me Candelaria feels gold artifacts in the world. Here you can trace the history of like the most authentic part of Bogotá. You can easily spend the precious metal and how it shaped a religion and nation. a few days mooching around and soaking in the addictive, Seeing the incredibly intricate "la balsa Muisca" (the Muisca lively atmosphere here. This is not a part of the city you raft) is a must. During ancient ceremonies, Muisca chiefs, want to rush through, not least because many of Bogotá’s covered in gold dust, would drop lavish gold objects into the principal cultural institutions are huddled in Candelaria or water as offerings to their gods. Get a caffeine fix from the very close by. The 123-year-old Teatro de Cristóbal Colón, museum's in-house San Alberto café which serves the best the country's national opera house, was designed by Italian coffee in the city (www.cafesanalberto.com/en). Across the

IGLESIA DE SAN AGUSTIN

street you will find the Fundación Museo Internacional de la Esmeralda (International Emerald Foundation Museum).

About 60% of the world's emeralds come from Colombia, and there are a multitude of opportunities to buy them in Bogotá. The museum includes a simulation mine, exhibition room showcasing a huge variety of emeralds and an enticing jewellery shop. Also worth a quick look-see is Museo Nacional, the largest and oldest museum in the country. A sprawling, three-story structure dedicated to Colombia's art and history, the massive building was once a prison and the museum's night watchmen swear it’s haunted. The museum is adjacent to Bogotá's Moorish-style bullfighting arena - Plaza de Toros de Santamaría - where most of the action takes place in January and February. 10 blocks away

and within easy walking distance is the Plaza de Bolívar, Bogotá's main square, bordered by a mishmash of architecture, at it's center an 1846 statue of Simon Bolivar, the city's first public monument. The vibrant plaza is dotted with pigeons, food vendors, entertainers, political protesters and old men in colourful, traditional outfits who will let you take a photo of them - and their llamas - for a small fee.

On the southern side of the square is the National Capitol, the centre of the Colombian congress. On the western side is Lievano Palace, a French-style building which serves as the seat of the mayor of Bogotá. Built between 1807 and 1823, Bogotá's beautiful baroque Catedral Primada on the southern side of the square is the biggest cathedral in Colombia and one of the largest in South America. The February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 41

huge, modern concrete Palace of Justice is located on the northern side of the square. In 1985, 35 members of the April 19 Movement, known as M-19, stormed the previous court that stood here and seized hundreds of hostages.

More than 100 people - including 11 Supreme Court justices and all but one of the guerrillas - died in a 28-hour siege that gutted the structure.

Between the bullring and Andes lies barrio La Macarena, a hilly neighbourhood lined with turquoise, pink and orange buildings which was off limits last decade but is now saturated with bohemian charm and eclectic cuisine. Its quiet, tree-lined streets are populated by fashionable restaurants, pavement cafes, workshops, galleries and boutiques, the air of downtown obscurity attracting a hip in-the-know crowd not dissimilar to Greenwich Village in NYC. Macarena was the trailblazer of Bogotรก's foodie scene 42

and there are at least a dozen restaurants here where you can get an excellent meal. Of them tapas restaurant Donostia is standout and perfect for lunch (www.elorigendelacomida.co/donostia/).

Bogotรก boasts a huge range of bars and restaurants to suit all tastes and wallets, and the city's flourishing culinary scene has quite rightly been commanding many international column inches of late. The Colombian capital is home to some of the best restaurants in South America, providing ample opportunities to eat incredibly well.

Sophisticated eateries abound presided over by immensely talented chefs, none more so than Leonor Espinosa's fine-dining establishment, Leo Cocina y Cava, the setting of the best meal of my two-week Colombian journey and one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Latin America. Leo's dining room successfully juxtaposes understated luxury with a touch of

formality, old school Colombian love songs taking the edge off the proceedings and adding an authentic charm. If you have the budget for just one fancy dinner in Bogotá be sure it's at Leo. Choose one of the tasting menus (there are two) rather than ordering à la carte to really experience Espinosa’s passion for Colombian cuisine. A tasting menu including wine is around USD 75 per person and worth every peso (www.leococinaycava.com). After dinner head to Zona G, Zona Rosa or Zona T, all of which are prime areas for finding an expertly made cocktail. Colombians love to go out, drink and dance - often a few times a week, especially during festive periods - so Bogotá’s nightlife scene is thriving with cool places to hang out ‘til the early hours. Of all the city's nightspots, Andrés DC, located in Bogotá’s upscale and touristy Zona T in the north east of the capital, is a fun, sprawling four-storey venue open for lunch and dinner

seven days a week. This is a crazy place where every day is Halloween, someone's birthday and New Year’s Eve all rolled into one, and no trip to Bogotá is complete without a night here. It's rowdy, noisy and absolutely outrageous. This is not the place for an intimate dinner or a business lunch. This is a place to make noise, be a bit silly and laugh. Bands of roving troubadours move from table to table serenading diners with musical instruments and songs. At any moment all the waiting staff might line up and perform a choreographed routine completely without warning, or a group of clowns parade in and perform an inappropriate routine. Even though the restaurant is a truly huge venue, it always fills up quickly so make a reservation. If there's one place a tourist should visit in Bogotá to eat, drink and be merry before leaving the city, it's this Colombian wining, dining and partying institution (www.andrescarnederes.com).

PRIZE DRAW

STAY W BOGOTA Located in the exclusive Santa Barbara business district of Colombia's throbbing capital - within walking distance of the Usaquén neighborhood featuring numerous restaurants, bars and boutiques - W Bogota is the capital's coolest hotel and the perfect place to rest your head, eat, sip, hang out and party. At the centre of the hotel’s social scene is its living room and cocktail bar, known as W Lounge, whilst the hotel’s on-site restaurant, Market Kitchen, is presided over by culinary maestro, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Dance until the early hours at Au Room nightclub, re-energize at the hotel's well-equipped FIT gym, take a dip in the heated indoor pool, or get pampered at AWAY spa. The hotel's 168 modern guest rooms and suites are decorated in bright leathers, printed vinyls, patterned cushions and gold accents and boast panoramic city vistas or mountain views outside huge windows (www.wbogota.com).

WIN A 3-NIGHT STAY IN W BOGOTA'S EXTREME WOW SUITE, the biggest suite in the hotel - boasting incredible views, upscale urban design, separate sleeping, living and dining areas and cutting edge technology. This prize is for two people and the lucky winner will be welcomed at W Bogota in the EXTREME WOW SUITE with a bottle of sparkling wine, given a USD100 credit to use at Market Kitchen restaurant and feast every morning on the hotel's extended breakfast buffet.

To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, email and mobile number) to WIN@THECULTUREDTRAVELLER.COM. Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place on 31 March 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of April 2016. This prize can be used until 31 December 2016, subject to availability. Rest assured The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

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PRIZE WORTH USD6,5 00!

EXTREME WOW SUITE, W BOGOTA

MUSEO DEL ORO 46

SEE MUSEO DEL ORO The Gold Museum's huge collection has been declared a national monument and is reputed to be the largest in the world, consisting of 34,000 pieces of gold and 20,000 objects of bone, stone, ceramics and textiles. In addition to showcasing priceless ancient gold relics, the second floor tells the political story of the people who made many of the exhibits, and the third floor explains their associated ceremonial and religious beliefs. www.banrepcultural.org/gold-museum GUATAVITA About an hour’s drive 35 miles north-east of Bogotá, sacred Guatavita Lake is the home of the legend of El Dorado. The story says that the Muisca Indian tribal chief, El Dorado, covered in gold dust, would arrive at the lake on a raft with four priests together with the gold offerings from his community. After throwing the offerings into the lake to honour their gods, the chief would then bathe in the lake. Guatavita lake and town are among the best places to enjoy Colombian small town hospitality. www.colombia.travel ZIPAQUIRÁ SALT CATHEDRAL Located approximately an hour north of Bogotá, this cathedral carved out of solid rock salt 180 metres underground, is the centerpiece of a halite mine that has been active since the 5th century B.C. Over the millennia, the salt from this mine has generated wealth for those who controlled it, from the Muisca people through to the liberators Narino and Bolivar who financed their revolutions selling salt. Although Zipaquirá is one of countless salt mines in the world, its salt cathedral is one of only two on the planet, the other being in Poland. www.catedraldesal.gov.co/en/

TASTE For upscale dining head to leafy, prosperous Zona G (the Gourmet Zone), where you'll find everything from elaborate, award-winning French gastronomy courtesy of the Rausch brothers at Criterion (www.hermanosrausch.com), to high-end Peruvian cuisine at superstar chef Gastón Acurio’s eponymous restaurant, Astrid & Gastón, co-run with his wife (www.astridygastonbogota.com). These restaurants, along with Leo Cocina y Cava (www.leococinaycava.com) produce some of the best plates in the city and all feature on the distinguished list of Latin America’s 50 best restaurants (www.theworlds50best.com/latinamerica/en/).

In La Candelaria, Mi Viejo has been serving fine Argentine fare since 1998 (www.miviejo.co), El Gato Gris is a cute two-storey restaurant overlooking the original neighbourhood square (www.gatogris.com), and El Son de los Grillos, one of the city’s oldest restaurants, serves traditional Colombian dishes accompanied by live chamber music (www.elsondelosgrillos.com).

At Donostia in Macarena, chef Tomás Rueda serves an innovative mix of Spanish cuisine cooked with Colombian ingredients. Install yourself on the long brown leather banquette which runs the length of the dining room and feast on substantial, lovingly-prepared tapas (www.elorigendelacomida.co/donostia).

In the Santa Barbara business district, chef Emiliano Rabía Sottil’s modern American farm-to-table dishes at Market Kitchen don't disappoint, whether you're looking for sashimi, salmon or short ribs. (www.marketkitchenbogota.com).

At Matiz in Chico, Le Cordon Bleu Peru graduate, Chilean chef Nicolás Quintano, combines his visual arts background with new cooking techniques to create impeccably presented gourmet dishes bursting with complex flavours. (www.matizrestaurante.com).

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ANDEAN TUBERS, CONCH, MACADAMIA NUT, BASUL BEAN SPROUTS, TAMARILLO, SWEET CUCUMBER LEO COCINA Y CAVA

The

Privately owned and personally managed contemporary and inviting restaurant, bar, garden and private dining room, on Kings Road in the heart of Chelsea in London.

Our kitchen never closes. Every day of the week you can enjoy innovative and tasty breakfast, lunch and dinner at The Imperial. Or even just bar snacks and a good old pint.

Our chef focuses on using only the best locally-sourced seasonal produce, to create an interesting and healthy menu which always includes a number of traditional British dishes.

The Imperial's flexible events team is happy to cater to every type of occasion, whether at home, in the office or outside.

The

577 King's Road | London SW6 2EH | www.the-imperial.co.uk

SIP AU ROOM Party with the city's fashion elite and international jet set at this vibrant destination nightclub, decorated in gold and black leather, located at the city's most happening hotel, W Bogota. www.wbogota.com/en/auroom APACHE This small, funky jumping bar on the rooftop of urban chic Click Clack hotel serves some of the best burgers in the city, and boasts 360° views of Bogotá and lively weekend parties. www.clickclackhotel.com CÉNTRICO On the 41st floor of the Hilton hotel, one of downtown Bogotá's tallest buildings, Céntrico serves quality tapas and classic cocktails to a backdrop

of funky music, high above the twinkling city below. www.centrico.co LITTLE INDIAN SUPERSTAR GIN CLUB Located in Zona Rosa the city's main party district, whilst gin is the main star here the bar's expert mixologists will also fix you a bespoke cocktail to fulfill your taste buds’ desires. www.facebook.com/littleindiansuperstar QUEEN VICTORIA Award-winning mixologists serve excellent cocktails at this popular London-themed DJ bar, furnished with a red telephone box and an abundance of Queen Victoria momentos. www.facebook.com/queenvictoriabar

AU ROOM, W BOGOTA February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 51

USAQUÉN SUNDAY MARKET 52

SPEND LOTO DEL SUR Colombian producer of divine face creams, bath products, handmade soaps and other deluxe toiletries, created using natural Latin American botanicals and plant extracts. www.lotodelsur.com

USAQUÉN SUNDAY MARKET

This gorgeous little suburb - filled with small, quirky restaurants and live music bars is the setting for Bogotá's most popular Sunday market, where you can buy arts and crafts, paintings, Colombian trinkets and leather goods, plus hats and bags fashioned by indigenous tribes.

GALERÍA VALENZUELA-KLENNER

Funky modern art gallery, founded in 1989, showcasing contemporary Latin American art in three exhibition spaces housed in a gorgeous 1937 deco building in Macarena. www.vkgaleria.com

XOCO

Innovative chocolatier that produces traditional truffles, chocolates and bonbons, plus a range of tempting elaborate confectionary flavoured with exotic fruits and spices. (+57 1 622 0443)

CESAR GIRALDO

Local artisanal leather workshop, established since 1989, which stitches high-quality handbags, briefcases, belts and rucksacks in a variety of shapes and colours. www.cesargiraldo.com.co

PER SE

Olga Piedrahita’s ever-changing, multi-label fashion emporium and high-end conceptual shop in leafy La Cabrera. www.olgapiedrahita.com

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MY BOGOTÁ BY JOHANA SANINT The Bogotá-based founder of Loto del Sur reveals where she choses to spend quality time in the capital.

WAS CREATING YOUR RANGE IN A MORE HOLISTIC BASIS YOUR INITIAL AIM AND IF SO WHY? I am a great believer in the power of plants and enjoy the simple pleasures in life. Loto del Sur’s objectives are to offer the best botanical formulas, and teach clients about new ingredients, rituals and scents of Latin America, so that looking after yourself becomes second nature and something to enjoy.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT LOTO DEL SUR AND HOW YOU CAME TO LAUNCH IT. My childhood was marked by memories of aromas and travels. My Dutch maternal grandparents founded the PFW house of fragrance and their legacy nurtured my unique love for perfume. However, I only discovered my true vocation after graduating as an architect, when I travelled to France and Italy and learned the artisan method of extracting perfumes from plants, and how to make vegetable-based soaps. It was then that I decided to use South American ingredients exclusively, inviting people to visit Colombia and rediscover our marvellous continent.

WHY DO YOU THINK COLOMBIA IS NOW CONSIDERED A HOT PLACE FOR TOURISTS? Colombia is still a best kept secret. It was forgotten by tourism for many years and as a result cultivated an authentic and refined character. Besides Colombia’s unimaginable geographical richness, my country has become a gastronomic, arts and design point of reference for the whole of Latin America. It has the perfect balance of culture, nature and good quality living.

YOU HAVE DEVELOPED MALE, FEMALE AND BABY COLLECTIONS. WHAT IS YOUR NEXT GOAL? Our next launch will be a facial line ideal for treating sensitive or irritated skin, for which we already have the first fantastic product - a cream soufflé called ‘Two Kings and a Queen.’ The formula contains essential oils, calming and antioxidant ingredients, hibiscus extract (known as ‘vegetable botox’), Amandín with high contents of vitamins A, B and E, and vital acids to maintain a healthy complexion.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE HIDDEN SPOT IN BOGOTÁ AND WHY? FLORA ars+natura contemporary art space in the San Felipe neighbourhood, not yet widely known but fast becoming the gallery hub of Bogotá. This gallery is also a residency space for artists and the emphasis is on the relationship between nature and art. One of its standout exhibitions was Susana Mejía’s Amazonian Colours, featuring natural dyes she extracted from Amazonian plants.

WHAT IS YOUR ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE COLOMBIAN MEAL? Ajiaco - a popular dish from the Santander region, where Bogotá is located. This is a soup typically made with chicken, herbs and three or more types of potato.

54 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, PLAY AND SLEEP IN BOGOTÁ?

To eat and drink the bar at La Brasserie. The Away Spa at W Bogota to swim and get a massage, or a Loto del Sur conceived ritual to relax. My favorite place to sleep in Bogotá is my home in the forest where I live with my two kids and husband, Ivan. When I want to spend a night in the city I stay at Four Seasons Hotel Casa Medina Bogotá.

WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE COLOMBIAN HEROINE AND WHY? For me, a hero is every Colombian striving to make a difference and believes in this country even in the worst of times. And my ultimate hero is my father, Rafael Sanint. As an architect he taught me the importance of balance between humankind and the natural environment, and instilled a loving vision of our continent that drives my Loto del Sur journey. My father’s book Soñar America is a great read about what it means to be Latin American.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE HOTEL IN COLOMBIA AND WHY? Sofitel Legend Santa Clara in Cartagena, which was originally built as a convent in 1621. It was used in the film Of Love and Other Demons based on the book by Gabriel García Márquez. This building is a shining example of 17th century colonial architecture in the heart of the old city, and is listed by UNESCO.

‘BESIDES COLOMBIA’S UNIMAGINABLE GEOGRAPHICAL RICHNESS, MY COUNTRY HAS BECOME A GASTRONOMIC, ARTS AND DESIGN POINT OF REFERENCE FOR THE WHOLE OF LATIN AMERICA.’ NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO COLOMBIA SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE COUNTRY WITHOUT EXPERIENCING? A tropical adventure, to immerse yourself into an ecosystem like no other; a mountain hike, with moon-like views and bizarre yet beautiful vegetation that make you feel like you’re on sacred ground; a weekend in Cartagena - getting lost in the day while exploring the old city and partying at night to live salsa at Café Havana. And an afternoon shopping in Loto del Sur of course!

PLEASE REVEAL TO US YOUR FAVOURITE (1) BEACH, (2) PLACE OF NATURAL BEAUTY, AND (3) CULTURAL SITE IN COLOMBIA. The beaches in Providencia, especially the ‘sea of seven colours’ that seems magical. The stunning Caño Cristales river - clear waters and masses of red, yellow, green, blue, pink and black algae that grow on the riverbed and make it look like a surreal, multi-coloured waterway - is for me, the best of nature on earth. The UNESCO heritage site, San Agustín Archaeological Park, which is home to the biggest collection of Latin America’s religious stone monuments.

WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES COLOMBIA SUCH A UNIQUE DESTINATION? Colombia has one of the most diverse ecosystems on the planet - alpine mountains, deserts, jungles, tropical rain forests, savannas and plains. Its position between two seas and the Andean cordillera means climate is erratic and hugely varied, with infinite flora and fauna species growing here. However, I believe the most beautiful thing about Colombia is its warm, happy and smiley people, who make any foreign visitor feel like they’re at home.

Loto del Sur stores are located in Bogotá and Cartagena www.lotodelsur.com

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The Botero Suite, SoďŹ tel Legend Santa Clara & The Angel Suite, Casa De Indias

THE BOTERO SUITE

R

evered in his native country of Colombia and internationally, Fernando Botero is widely accepted to be one of the most successful contemporary artists alive, and is considered by many to be the most influential Latin American artist in the world. In 2001, Botero’s bronze sculpture, Dancers, sold for US 1.7 million and in 2012, his painting The Musicians fetched USD2 million. His unique signature style - known as Boterismo - evokes images of voluptuous people, voluminous objects and animals in exaggerated proportions. His work is in continuous demand around the globe and his incredibly visual and instantly recognisable statues can be seen gracing elegant squares, city plazas and positioned outside corporate headquarters all over the planet.

Catching sight of a Botero piece generally makes one smile, although some consider his work to be controversial, even trivial. You either love it or hate it.

Being a collector of art by the late British artist Beryl Cook - many of whose paintings depict bold, bulky extrovert figures - I always enjoy seeing Botero's work

and am happy to see his art quite literally everywhere.

When I was travelling in Turkey last year, I was thrilled to see a huge Botero hanging by the lifts of the swishy St Regis Istanbul hotel. Brand Botero has done wonders promoting Colombia both at home and abroad, and whilst some of Botero’s most famous works can be found in Bogotá, Medellín, Barcelona and Madrid, just as many are on show in other global capitals including Singapore, Berlin, Paris and New York.

Now in his 80s, Botero is as prolific as ever. A devoted creator, he has produced thousands of paintings, hundreds of sculptures and gifted a huge number of works to his homeland. No trip to Colombia is complete without an afternoon spent in Plaza Botero, outside the Museum of Antioquia in Medellín, where 25 of his giant statues reside. Also a must is a visit to Museo Botero in Bogotá, to which he donated 123 of his own works plus 85 others by such luminaries as Picasso and Chagall. Botero's fondness for Cartagena is also well known. A huge Botero

THE ANGEL SUITE 58 40 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

THE ANGEL SUITE

bronze of a reclining female, called La Gorda, lies in Plaza Santo Domingo in Cartagena’s old city. Literally translated as 'The Fat One', it forms the perfect backdrop for diners gorging themselves in one of the many restaurants within eyeshot of the sculpture.

Together with his first wife, Gloria Zea, Botero bought Casa De Indias in the 1980’s, a splendid colonial mansion in Cartagena’s old city. The mansion dates back to the late 16th century and originally belonged to Don Sancho Jimeno de Orozco, who was governor of Cartagena in 1693. Botero and Zea purchased the property when the old city was filled with abandoned houses and tourism was virtually non-existent.

The sympathetic restoration of Casa De Indias - not least by such a renowned artist - put Cartagena's historic center back on the map and generated considerable interest in the old

CASA DE INDIAS

city and it’s numerous unloved houses, many of which were then bought up by wealthy South Americans, who in time transformed them into luxe vacation homes.

Not only did the restoration of Casa De Indias uncover delightful murals (from underneath countless layers of lime), but also the house’s original colors: hydrangea blue, salmon pink and a light brownish-yellow ochre. Whilst these remain the predominant colours of the house today, some of the walls constantly change their appearance and tone due to the humidity and climate in Cartagena, adding even more character to the property. Rooms of high vaulted ceilings with wooden beams and incredible floors of Carrara marble are filled with colonial furniture, priceless antiques, ethnic fabrics, huge paintings, silk rugs, dramatic candelabras and chandeliers. Standout are a beautiful oil painting by Antonio Barrera, and a life-size wooden sculpture of a friar, which was recovered from an excavation in the city’s outskirts. In some rooms the combined intensity of the building’s grandeur, décor, artworks and furnishings almost render it palatial. Casa De Indias oozes glamour, drama and history from every corner; it’s past and present position in the epicentre of the old city undeniably unique. In 2013 Casa De Indias was

THE ANGEL SUITE

given an interior makeover by the couple's daughter, Lina Botero, and the house is now available to rent - as a whole or in parts - to carefully vetted individuals. The best accommodation is the two-bedroom 100m² Angel Suite, which includes the ground floor swimming pool and surrounding terrace filled with huge tropical plants and overhanging trees, as perfect for a lazy day of lounging as it is for a glitzy evening soirée.

10 mins walk from Casa De Indias is Sofitel Legend Santa Clara, a landmark in the heart of Cartagena’s old city and almost certainly the most famous hotel in Colombia. Bill Gates, Shakira, Mel Gibson, Francis Ford Coppola, Mick Jagger, Plácido Domingo and Sting have all stayed here. It's perhaps fitting that the winner of South America's Leading Hotel Suite 2015 at the World Travel Awards, was the hotel’s presidential 143m² Botero Suite, a collaboration between Botero, daughter Lina (who designed the interior) and construction firm Arias, Serna and Saravia.

The accommodation comprises a vast double-height main salon, guest cloakroom, butler’s kitchen and bedroom cum living room with bathroom and walk-in closet. Inspired by the artist’s early works, the colour palette utilises wheat, champagne and sand tones, while the décor scheme embodies many natural February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 61

materials including linen, woods, plant fibres, cotton, rattan, sisal and Colombian yute, all produced locally. The curtains were made on handlooms. The gorgeous, rich wooden floors have a rustic, homely finish. The master bathroom is lined in acres of white Carrara marble. The handmade furniture is classic with a contemporary twist, including some cute pieces highlighted with colonial features to blend with the overall design ethic of the hotel.

The main salon is presided over by a huge, original Botero painting of a naked lady, hanging high up the wall, who, from a certain angle, appears to oversee everything that transpires in her midst. The massive comfy sofa underneath her, is more than 3 metres long, balanced by a pair of extra wide fabric-covered chaise opposite. A giant bookcase spanning an entire wall is filled with novels, prints, trinkets, bijou sculptures, photographs by Lina Botero, ethnic pots and bowls, and Colombian folk art pieces inspired by Botero. Ralph Lauren lamps are dotted around. Doors open onto a large balcony overlooking the hotel pool with fabulous views towards the ocean. The result is a room, which - whilst huge and high - is pleasingly eclectic, fresh and inviting, and at the same time conveys a genuine feeling of being in Colombia.

A sophisticated Bose set-up provides music of the highest sound quality in every room, whilst the suite’s NightCove system produces a mixture of varying wavelengths and sounds to ensure a relaxed and deep sleep at night. In the mornings you can even be carefully woken by a dawn simulator. The designers really did think of everything, rendering The Botero Suite perfectly juxtaposed between luxury, glamour and comfort, with no part feeling anything less than intensely warm and welcoming. Anyone staying here runs a serious risk of seeing very little of Cartagena at all.

The average nightly rate for The Angel Suite at Casa De Indias is USD1,200 inclusive of breakfast, 24-hour butler service and airport transportation. www.galavanta.com The average nightly rate for The Botero Suite at Softel Legend Santa Clara is USD2,500 inclusive of breakfast and airport transportation. www.sofitel-legend.com/cartagena Words by Nicholas Chrisostomou 62

THE BOTERO SUITE

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MY BARANQUILLA BY SOFÍA VERGARA The TV star, actress and comedienne tells us about the favourite parts of her native city of Barranquilla.

YOU HAIL FROM BARRANQUILLA, WHICH HOSTS THE BIGGEST CARNIVAL IN COLOMBIA. HOW MUCH OF THE CITY’S TRADITION HAS INSPIRED YOUR OWN VIBRANT VISUAL IMAGERY? The carnival of Barranquilla is all about music, fun, dancing, bright colours and friends and family celebrating life. I feel that we, all Colombians, are about this, and it's something beautiful we carry in our souls and in the way we carry ourselves.

PLEASE REVEAL YOUR MOST SECRET SPOT IN BARRANQUILLA. There's this small place called La Tiendecita where you can eat the best crispy, crunchy and altogether delicious pork chicharrón ever.

WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE COLOMBIAN HERO AND WHY? It has to be the Colombian soccer team.

Soccer is huge here and every game, goal and victory of our Selección Colombia puts the whole country in a state of euphoria, happiness and spirit to party that I think is the best source of happiness ever.

64 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, PLAY AND SLEEP IN BARRANQUILLA? I love Arabe Gourmet for its great Middle Eastern cuisine with a twist of Barranquilla. To party, Díscolo is amazing. And the best and most delicious desserts are from Dulcerna. Anything with coconut becomes addictive. Also in the city of Cartagena (an hour away from Barranquilla) there are great desserts at Ely Gourmet.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE COLOMBIAN MEAL? Without any doubt it has to be el Sancocho. A delicious typical Colombian soup - like a stew - that contains plantain, meat, yuca and everything that is good in the foodie world.

‘THERE IS SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE IN OUR BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY, NOT TO MENTION THE COOLEST PEOPLE EVER’

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE BEACH IN COLOMBIA? Playa Blanca and Las Islas del Rosario in Cartagena.

WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES COLOMBIA SUCH A UNIQUE DESTINATION FOR OVERSEAS VISITORS? No matter what city or area you visit, there's always something to see, learn and enjoy, plus you’ll get to meet some of the nicest people on the planet. Truly, there's something for everyone: beautiful scenery, happening nightlife, intense culture and delicious food.

COLOMBIA IS NOW CONSIDERED ONE OF THE HOTTEST PLACES FOR TOURISTS TO VISIT. WHY DO YOU THINK THIS IS? The thing is we have everything: beaches, mountains, valleys, the Amazon jungle, coffee plantations, natural parks, glacier covered volcanoes like Nevado del Ruiz, deserts, salt mines and incredibly historic architecture in most cities. We literally have EVERYTHING! In Bogotá there are beautiful museums like the Gold Museum and Botero Museum, and the breathtaking Mount Monserrate. The old walled city in Cartagena is incredible, by far it's one of the most beautiful in the world.

We have unique cultural attractions like the Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirá which simply is a must see. There is something for everyone in our beautiful country, not to mention the coolest people ever.

WHERE IN COLOMBIA ARE YOUR TOP PLACES FOR UNSURPASSED, NATURAL BEAUTY? Parque Tayrona and the mountains of Medellín are breathtaking.

NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO COLOMBIA SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE COUNTRY WITHOUT SEEING OR EXPERIENCING? I have five, sorry, but I couldn’t leave out any one of these: RIDE a Chiva - have fun travelling around the city in a typical Colombian party bus, drinking aguardiente and rum, with a Vallenato band playng on board. It's the best experience.

BUY an emerald - we have some of the best in the world.

TASTE camu camu - an amazing berry that only grows in the Amazon. Its juice is delicious and super healthy.

GO to el Carnaval de Barranquilla and let the happiness and music take over your soul. You will never forget it.

TAKE a happy picture in Cartagena – pose with a Palenquera, the most fun and colourful women you’ll ever see, as they sell their delicious fruits at the beach.

WHICH CULTURAL SITE WOULD YOU CONSIDER COLOMBIA’S FINEST? Mompox is a beautiful town renowned for its architecture, culture and beautiful landscape. It appears to be frozen in time and looks pretty much as it used to during colonial times.

Sofía Vergara stars in Modern Family and recently launched her second fragrance, 'Love'

AVIANCA’S LONDON BOGOTÁ BUSINESS CLASS Founded in 1919, Colombia's flag carrier, Avianca, is the world's second oldest operating airline after KLM. Many consider Avianca to have pioneered civil aviation in South America. At one time controlled by Pan Am, Avianca is now owned - through his privately held Synergy group by Bolivian-born entrepreneur, Germán Efromovich, who bought control of the ailing airline in 2004 and helped it out of bankruptcy.

Despite buoyant customer demand and growing tourism in Colombia, the unique challenges of the country's geography appear to have never truly been mastered by Avianca. Difficult economic and political

when it exploded over the town of Soacha, just outside the capital, killing all 107 people on board and strewing debris and dismembered bodies across the Colombian countryside. Running a massive international cocaine cartel and ranked by Forbes magazine as the world’s seventh-richest man at the time, Escobar was determined not to let Colombia’s 1990 presidential election interfere with his brutal ambitions. Escobar's intended target, Gaviria, went on to win Colombia’s 1990 presidential election and launch a massive (and very public) anti-drug campaign, which eventually resulted in Escobar being killed in a rooftop gunfight in Medellín in 1993.

conditions have also been a problem for the airline to navigate over the years. Today, whilst competition is increasing and young, attractive low-cost airlines are taking a bite out of Avianca's core business, Colombia’s national carrier is fighting back by introducing new jets, more routes and streamlining services. But many observers believe that Avianca has never fully recovered from the 1989 bombing of its flight AV 203, ordered by late Colombian drug lord, Pablo Escobar, to kill presidential candidate Cesar Gaviria who turned out not to be on board. Many Colombians still won’t fly Avianca and instead look to any other airline. Flight AV 203 had just taken off from Bogotá on its way to Cali, on 27 November 1989,

Twenty years on, Avianca is flying some of the newest and most modern jets in Latin America’s skies, and currently operating the only daily direct service between London Heathrow and Bogotá, covering the distance in just under 11 hours. The airline's clever scheduling enables passengers to connect to 23 cities in Colombia and more than 100 destinations in the Americas. Flights are operated on Airbus A330 planes with a capacity for 252 passengers - 30 in business and 222 in economy. These will gradually be replaced by Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft, the roll-out scheduled to be complete by the end of 2017 on the London Bogotá route.

I made sure that I was travelling on one of Avianca’s

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newest Boeing A330-200 jets, in which business was split into two cabins, with flatbed seats laid out in a spacious 1-2-1 configuration, all having direct access to an aisle.

Avianca, is still operating some older A330 aircraft - with angled flat seats - so it's a bit of a lottery as to what product you may experience. Anyway my seat provided excellent privacy and a good amount of personal space, although I still can't get used to being seated at an angle towards the windows. I much prefer a window seat positioned at a traditional angle so I can peer out of the windows - something I especially like to do when coming into land in a country I've never visited before. An angled seat means you can't see out of the windows properly, which for me takes some of the fun out of flying, but lots

meals served when a passenger wants to eat (rather than when the airline wants you to eat), served on fine china with choices of wines and not a trolley in sight.

This was not the case on my Avianca flight. Food was served in one sitting - with everything on the meal tray except dessert - and trolleys are still very much a part of the Avianca business class experience. There was no finesse to the meal service and the food was not of restaurant quality, which I have to say was a little disappointing. Rather than eat I chose to slumber, and I can say that the quality of my sleep was very good, with noise cancelling headphones that worked well, a decent pillow and a nice Tumi amenity kit, although the airline-supplied “Bonnet-type” headphone coverings

of airlines are adopting this new fangled layout. Windows aside, there were plenty of storage spaces including a decent cupboard for my laptop and another for the multitude of cables one has to lug on board these days.

Just before take off I was presented with a fluffy blanket tied with a red bow and ribbon, and a drawstring bag to put my shoes in.

were a bit weird. The L’Occitane hand cream was however rather good. Despite the lack lustre meal service, it has to be said that flying direct on Avianca makes light work of crossing the Atlantic and visiting South America - the cabin crew were warm, friendly and attentive - changing continents seemed to take no time at all - and landing early morning meant I could start my visit to colourful Colombia with a full day out ‘n’ about in bustling Bogotá.

If you’re a frequent flyer on any of the Middle Eastern or Asian premium carriers, then you are going to be a little disappointed with your meal on any Latin American airline. The likes of Qatar Airways and Singapore completely spoil their business class passengers, with

Nicholas Chrisostomou flew Avianca from Heathrow to Bogotá on 27 October 2015. www.avianca.com

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SKY BRIEF GETTING AROUND COLOMBIA Approximately the same size as the UK, France, and Germany combined, Colombia is the fifth largest country in South America, with a total coastline of more than 3,000kms. At least half a dozen airlines service Colombia's domestic routes, with Avianca providing the greatest number of flights (www.avianca.com). CopaAirlines, Colombia's second-largest, covers much the same destinations but also flies to the coral island of San Andrés in the Caribbean Sea (www.copaair.com). Satena flies to the Amazon, Pacific coast

ERNESTO CORTISSOZ UPGRADE Barranquilla was not an especially popular destination in the past, but the city is now on the up, and for the past few years it has had one of the highest economic growth rates of any Colombian metropolis. 7km south of the city, USD200 million works have begun to improve Ernesto Cortissoz international airport - earmarked to become a major hub for Avianca due to its location in the northern part of the country. Already capable of accepting wide-bodied aircraft including the

and between San Andrés and Providencia (www.satena.com). Low-cost carrier EasyFly serves Bogotá, Barranquilla, Cartagena, Cúcuta, Medellín and Santa Marta (www.easyfly.com.co). Lan flies to the major cities plus small smaller regional destinations (www.lan.com). Low-cost newcomer, VivaColombia, is the only airline which connects Medellín directly with Santa Marta (www.vivacolombia.co). All six airlines have English language options on their websites.

Boeing 747, Boeing 767 and Airbus A340, the improvements to the airport which are being carried out by Consortium Aeropuertos Colombia SPV include the refurbishment of the runway and taxiways, construction of a perimeter road and the remodelling of the passenger terminal to provide a vastly better passenger experience. Baranquilla's new look airport will be unveiled in 2017.

VIVACOLOMBIA TO THE STATES Colombian low-cost carrier,

HELICOPTER TRAVEL IN COLOMBIA For those for whom time is of the essence and the sky's the limit, a private helicopter is the only way to travel and the preferred method of arriving at a fancy party at a sprawling hacienda. With offices in Bogotá and Medellín, Helistar offers charter flights to anywhere in the country and thanks to its large fleet of aircraft, the customer has the ability and autonomy to choose the aircraft that best suits. Helistar has helicopters which seat 6, 9, 12 and 24 passengers. www.helistar.com.co

VivaColombia has just launched four times weekly direct flights between Bogotá and Miami using its Airbus A320 jets. This service joins the airline's Medellín Miami route, launched just over a year ago, which are proving to be very popular.

VivaColombia has established itself as Colombia’s first true low-cost carrier. The airline launched in May 2012 and alongside a strong domestic operation, also offers flights from Colombia to Ecuador, Panama and Peru. www.vivacolombia.co

February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 69

No Shoes Required Nicholas Chrisostomou reports on two distinctly different chill out experiences: a unique beachside eco escape on Colombia’s stunning unspoiled north coastline, and a sprawling designer vacation pad in an Andean riverside town virtually untouched by tourism.

February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 71

I

HOTEL MERECUMBE

n the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, on a remote Caribbean beach on Colombia’s north coastline, bordering Tayrona National Park, there's a place where time moves slowly, the surroundings are wild and it’s truly possible to disconnect from the rest of the world. Just five years ago, the Tayrona district was still a relatively low-key rest point for transient trekkers and spirited travellers, with hammocks and basic rooms the most they could expect for respite. But bijou eco resort, Hotel Merecumbe, has changed all that. Set within its own protected area of more than 100,000 biodiverse square metres - with sixty percent of its land designated for conservation and reforestation - this unique beachside escape is a truly exceptional nature lover’s paradise and a rare opportunity to experience Colombia’s rich culture, dramatic landscape and warm hospitality all in one place.

Merecumbe is just a sixty-minute drive from Simón Bolívar airport, which is in turn a sixty-minute flight from Bogotá. Since I was peckish when we landed, we stopped a short way into the drive for a traditional Chicharrón lunch at Choncy, on the outskirts of Santa Marta. Chicharrón is a Colombian speciality of fried pork belly which is scrummy and incredibly moreish but bad news for your arteries. Once in a while is OK, I said to myself, as I munched my way through a large plate of the stuff. (www.facebook.com/pages/restaurante-chonchy).

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After alighting in Merecumbe’s driveway, eager helpers loaded my luggage onto a wooden wheelbarrow and transported my belongings into the distance. With not an electric golf cart in sight it was clear, from the get go, that Merecumbe’s owners were committed to preserving the untamed environment and local traditions. This couldn’t have come at a more refreshing time, after the long hectic weekend of sightseeing and revelry I’d just enjoyed in Bogotá. My only slight worry was the hotel’s strict eco ethos meaning no TV (which I was happy to do without) and more importantly, no air-con. But I needn’t have worried, because my airy eco-hab (of which Merecumbe has just eleven) was inviting, comfy and thoughtfully furnished, having been bio-climatically built using a minimalist wooden structure topped with a roof of natural palm. Fine grilles ventilated my room and simultaneously protected me from blood thirsty mozzies. I loved the outdoor bathroom, covered to the sides and above but in every other respect open to the fresh sea air. The simply furnished interior led to an expansive private deck with loungers, table and chairs and a glorious al fresco shower, which I made prompt use of after a dip in the sea. In fact, such was the pull of the sea - the waves crashing into the shore making that inimitable sound that I almost virtually through the hotel grounds and straight into the Caribbean less than 30 mins after checking-in. This is the Merecumbe effect. The place virtually forces you to kick off your shoes, leave the city behind and experience nature. Even if you tried your best, you’d find Merecumbe’s calming influence impossible to resist. I did. The isolated

49

beach - where squirrels, otters, rabbits and tortoises roam free - was in itself something to behold. The parrots and other exotic birds in the trees literally stopped me in my tracks. Unfortunately I didn’t have time for a relaxing massage on the beach to a hypnotic wave soundtrack. But I did sit on a swing and read a magazine with my feet in the sand, smiling to myself at the momentary childlike feeling.

And I did play Scrabble in the clubhouse while sipping on a delicious apple martini. And I did sample some of the hotel’s tasty culinary offerings, which showcased local produce including homegrown fruits, vegetables and herbs.

Merecumbe’s quality menu is prepared with care and love, and offers delectable dishes to satisfy everyone, from die-hard carnivores to vegetarian and vegan travellers.

Despite my initial misgivings, mother nature and the awe-inspiring unspoiled surroundings more than made up for the unpretentious facilities at Merecumbe. This was one hotel where the pressures of life, work and digicomms did in fact seem light years away. www.merecumbehotel.com

CASA DE LAS AGUAS

T

hree hours drive from Bogotá, on the west bank of the Magdalena, is Honda, a town in Tolima founded in 1539, located in the Andean region in the center west of the country. Surrounded by hills with a picturesque colonial town centre of steep, narrow cobbled streets and brightly coloured houses, Honda is home to undoubtedly some of the most beautiful architecture in the area.

Being in Honda is about wandering the streets, taking in the scenery and generally appreciating the distinctly slower pace of life. The town’s location, nestled on Colombia’s longest river, the Magdalena, also affords visitors spectacular views of one of South America’s mightiest arteries, and the 25 bridges crossing the Magdalena, Gualí and Guarinó has earned it the nickname of "the City of

74 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

Bridges". Its bright yellow Puente de Navarro is reputedly the oldest iron bridge in South America.

In its heyday, Honda was an important trading post for goods coming down the Magdalena from the Atlantic coast.

Supplies shipped in from Barranquilla were offloaded in Honda before starting their journey on land to Bogotá. With the development of rail and the expansion of road routes, Honda slowly lost its economic power and some of its grandeur faded. Nowadays, virtually untouched by tourism, the town boasts an authentic, historic center, with a grand, old colonnaded covered public market selling mostly fruit and vegetables. The former President of Colombia, Alfonso López, was born in Honda, and there is a Casa Cultural dedicated to him, featuring some interesting photographs from the period. At the crest of the town atop some steep cobbled lanes, is the main park with a charming stone church, El Alto Rosario, and a statue dedicated to David Hughes Williams, an Englishman who was once town mayor.

Honda’s special charm has attracted many creative and artistic people to the area, including architects Guillermo Arias and Luis Cuartas, who created in the town their own personal oasis of tranquility, Casa De Las Aguas. Their practice, Octubre Arquitectura, based in Bogotá, is well known for its creative use of steel, bronze, iron, marble and wood, and their Honda vacation house combines many textures and finishes to create a unique, warm and comfortable home, which is rented to carefully vetted travellers looking for a break or a place to reboot. With no internet, no TV and an open-plan layout with few walls, Casa De Las Aguas is calm and serenity personified, and the ideal place to catch some sun, listen to music and unwind with a book, in between weekends in Bogotá and Medellín perhaps. In short, Casa De Las Aguas is the perfect house to kick back, loosen up and switch off.

Needless to say shoes are pretty much superfluous anywhere in the house.

Casa De Las Aguas is the result of combining two abandoned street-facing properties in the oldest part of the town centre, which used to house residential and storage buildings. Only the façades and some of the colonial, period stonewalls were preserved and incorporated into the new project within the boundaries of the old structure, which was conceived as a sequence of open plan, covered spaces where indoor and outdoor merge without the presence of rooms. As soon as you come off the cobbled pavement and walk through the front door, a multitude of different vistas of the gardens and water invoke the idea of lazy afternoons dozing

in a hammock. You are almost subconsciously transported into relaxation mode as soon as you’ve put your bags down.

Quite honestly I had never before experienced a vacation house like it.

The house’s floor plan is based on sight lines, and venturing around conveys a whimsical, labyrinth-like feeling. Every room faces one of the exterior areas with each representing a theme. These include a patio festooned with aromatic herbs, a small orchard of citrus trees and a terrace brimming with red peppers. Water in the form of swimming pools, fountains and ponds act as unifying elements throughout the house and add to the open, breezy feeling. Lush vegetation, gardens, moss-covered ancient walls and small jungle-like paths enticing you into different areas of the house, bring everything together and create an air of playfulness. Vertical stairs, terraces and higher levels reveal spectacular views of the dramatic surrounding landscape, and at the very top of the house an oversized outdoor tub and large terrace (perfect for sunset cocktails) overlook the fast-flowing Magdelena river a few hundred metres away. Minimalist furniture, beds and shelves in concrete and dark wood, fashioned by the house’s owners, complete the relaxed look. In the evenings, the clever, bespoke lighting scheme - designed by Arias - really comes into its own, enhancing the character of the original walls, textures, botanicals and water features, creating a soothing, reflective space in which to chill out, snooze on a daybed or prepare to slumber. www.facebook.com/casa.delasaguas

February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 77

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MY CALI BY KATHERINE ARAUJO The Colombian-born restaurant guide publisher and keen foodie insists that you really must salsa in Cali.

YOUR BEST RESTAURANTS COLOMBIA GUIDE LISTS THE COUNTRY’S MOST CELEBRATED EATERIES. PLEASE TELL US MORE ABOUT THE BOOK. Best Restaurants has been documenting the planet’s finest gastronomy for decades. The journey to discover Colombia’s culinary trends began with my partner two years ago. We were shocked yet thrilled at how Colombian cuisine had evolved over recent years, and how its dining scene had totally transformed. However restaurant information was very limited, so after some thorough research, we published our first guidebook in 2014 - Best Restaurants Colombia - featuring 114 restaurants in six cities.

YOU ARE FROM CALI, KNOWN AS THE WORLD’S ‘CAPITAL DE LA SALSA’. HOW GOOD ARE YOUR MOVES? Haha! You absolutely must learn how to dance salsa when you are from Cali. My moves are good, I learned how to dance salsa when I was about 7 or 8. I love it, and have been dancing ever since.

HOW DID YOU BECOME SO PASSIONATE ABOUT COLOMBIAN GASTRONOMY? I grew up with a big gastronomic influence in my family: my mother is an extraordinary cook and food enthusiast, as was her mother before her. This passion is in our soul. From as far back as I can recall, food, cooking and what goes on around a table has always captivated me. After I finished high school, I moved to Buenos Aires for culinary studies.

78 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE COLOMBIAN HEROINE AND WHY? Leonor Espinosa, for her commitment to exploring every corner of Colombia in search of new delights to add to the dining table, and for her dedication and phenomenal work with her foundation FUNLEO, which supports the agricultural development of the country’s indigenous and peasant communities.

WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, PLAY AND SLEEP IN CALI? Cali is a fabulous city where many gastronomic cultures have merged. Being so close to the Pacific and with its richly fertile soils, Cali produces a wealth of natural ingredients to use in its dishes. I love Cali street food but my favorite restaurants are Platillos Voladores, La Guacharaca and Azul.

For drinks, I like the Absenta bar, and the Menga district outside Cali is the place for fun with many, big salsa nightclubs, my favourite being Jala Jala club. For a good night’s sleep, The Now Hotel and the Acqua Santa Hotel are perfect.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE HOTEL OR RESORT IN COLOMBIA? I have to mention a few. In Cartagena, the Casablanca B&B, in the city center, is quiet and beautiful. In Tayrona Park I love the Aviatur Hotel. And the Entremonte Wellness Hotel & Spa on the outskirts of Bogotá is just breathtaking.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE HIDDEN SPOT IN CALI? My favorite hidden spot is a bar called Punto Baré on Calle 5ta, with its orchestra of 20 musicians that play Latin, jazz and salsa live from Wednesday through Saturday. Entrance is free but the place never gets uncomfortably crowded with too many people because once all seats are occupied, the doors close. It’s a fabulous place to go for great music.

WHAT IS YOUR ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE COLOMBIAN MEAL? Sudado de piangua, a mollusc found in the mangroves of the Pacific Ocean. You will usually find it served at Cali’s more casual eateries.

‘COLOMBIA HAS BECOME ONE OF THOSE MYSTERIOUS DESTINATIONS WHOSE BEAUTY IS FINALLY BEING REVEALED TO THE EYES OF THE REST OF THE WORLD’

COLOMBIA IS NOW CONSIDERED ONE OF THE HOTTEST PLACES FOR TOURISTS TO VISIT. WHY DO YOU THINK THIS IS? I think as globalization advances and people regularly travel and work internationally, Colombia has become one of those mysterious destinations whose beauty is finally being revealed to the eyes of the rest of the world. You can find everything in Colombia: snow, volcanoes, hot springs, oceans on either side with beautiful coasts, mountains, rivers, valleys, deserts, cities. It’s simply a magical country and it makes me happy that more people travel here.

PLEASE REVEAL TO US YOUR FAVOURITE (1) BEACH, (2) PLACE OF NATURAL BEAUTY, AND (3) CULTURAL SITE IN COLOMBIA. The beaches of San Andrés‎ are my favourite for their blue waters and white sands. The mountain range of the Parque Nacional Farallones in Cali is just spectacular.

And Medellín boasts some of the country’s most fascinating cultural sites.

WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES COLOMBIA SUCH A UNIQUE DESTINATION FOR OVERSEAS VISITORS? The fact that the natural environment of Colombia offers so many magnificent opportunities. You can swim with humpback whales in the Pacific, or visit the Guajira Desert for stunning views of where it meets the Atlantic. You can visit Cartagena, a city stood in time, that looks like it did 100 years ago when many European and local architectural styles collided. Colombia has something for everyone.

NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO COLOMBIA SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE COUNTRY WITHOUT DOING? Visit a local market, since it’s a place where one can truly experience the richness and variety of Colombian produce and appreciate the region’s agricultural backbone. While you’re there try a local arepa from one of the many stalls.

The first Best Restaurants Miami guide will be published end 2016 #bestrestaurantsmiami www.bestrestaurantsincolombia.com

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SPOTLIGHT MEDELLÍN

Colombia’s second largest metropolis has perhaps endured one of the most public and destructive periods in any modern city’s existence. As recently as the mid 1990’s, traffickers and gangs ruled the streets and comunas, police being shot and killedwas a daily occurrence, and the violent left-wing FARC and paramilitary forces were everywhere.

I was told by a pushy friend that I “must see” the Netflix series ‘Narcos’ before leaving Blighty for Colombia, and that it would “educate” me about the country’s turbulent past. And so I watched, in fairly graphic detail, how drug king Pablo Escobar spearheaded areign of death and destruction that systematically turned Medellín into the murder capital of the world.Whilst the series was watchable I wouldn’t say that it isessential viewing material for anyone travelling to Colombia. On the contrary, series like Narcos are unfortunately feeding the growing passion around Escobar’s lifeand causing a generation of young Colombians - who did not grow up during Escobar’s era of terror - to develop agod-like fondness for his memory. It’s unsurprising that Escobar has become part of Latin American pop culture history, but I think that the modern day reverence should calm down. Hence tourists travelling to Medellín, in order to best experience the city and all that the Paisas have achieved the past few decades, should visit the city with open minds rather than expecting to see the remnants of ‘Narcos’.That Medellín has come so far since Escobar’s demise is testament to the resilience, drive and determination of the city’s people. Once dubbed the ‘most dangerous city on earth’, it’s the energy and strength of character instilled in Medellín-folk which has transformed their streets from a drug lord’s playground into a blossoming cultural centre and one of Latin America’s liveliest and most creative hotbeds today.

I visited Medellín for a weekend in November, and whilst I really got around, felt the tremendous spirit and energy of the place, immersed myself in the culture and loved everything I saw, it quickly became apparent that I had merely scratched the surface of this thriving and cosmopolitan urban hub. So I asked Carmen Angel - an American by birth now living and working in Medellín - to share with The Cultured Traveller her insider thoughts and tips about the city she now calls home.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

MUSEO DE ANTIOQUIA

M

edellín is a diverse and spirited city. It’s a place that is easy to fall in love with, as so many people do, including myself. I am half Colombian - my father is Paisa, native of the Antioquia region whose capital is Medellín - and I was born and grew up in the USA. My childhoodfeatured many aspects of Colombian living: eating my father’s homemade arepas every Sunday, frequent visits to Colombia, and of course a lot of Spanish. But it wasn’t until I moved to Medellín eight years ago that I truly understood and was able to appreciate the complexities and beauty of this enchanting city.

The amazing people that live and work in Medellín every day make the city unique. Fromthe kind cashier at the grocery store andthe smiling parking attendant, tothe warm reception of a server at a small local eatery orthe sympathetic help of a random passerby on the street when I am lost. The Paisas are a warm, polite and open people, readily willing to show the best of their region andcity. They are also hard-working and motivated by an innate ethic to do things well, with honourable intentions and diligence in achieving the goals they aspire to. They are an extremely proud people, something that is renowned among other Colombians. Medellín has shed its old skin, not forgetting the past but existing with it, giving way to a much brighter future and a city that can prove itself worthy of the recent recognition it has received.

This green and vibrant city is a wonderful place to live and visit. Medellín is clean, well kept and cared for by its citizens 82 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

and local government alike. Beautiful, lush vegetation is evident everywhere - even random concrete walls are adorned with vertical gardens and landscaping. Urban innovation has been a priority in recent times, with interesting new public spaces popping up all the time. Just last year, Medellín embarked on its newest project;a park that will be constructed over approximately 10 miles of the Medellín River. Art and cultural sites are more abundant than ever: the Museo de Antioquia (www.museodeantioquia.co) situated downtown, and the Museo de Arte Moderno (or MAMM) (www.elmamm.org), offer an opportunity to see how the city has evolved artisticallyand showcase up-and-coming local talent. Meanwhileinteractive science museum, ParqueExplora (www.parqueexplora.org), presents educationalexhibits whichcontribute to the cultural richness of the city. The Teatro Pablo Tobón (www.teatropablotobon.com) features several spaces for expressing oneself artistically, and events that highlight local tango, salsa and jazz musicians are a regular occurence. The park in Ciudad del Rio (www.ciudaddelrio.com) is great for picnicking, while the Ciclovía is open every Sunday and some holidays, for those who like to walk, run, cycle or skate freely along the city’s main boulevard which spans the length of the El Poblado neighborhood. A stop at the Mercados Campesinos farmer’s market in the Presidenta park is a must for fresh, locally grown produce, organic arepas, home-made breads and guarapo - a refreshing drink made from freshly squeezed sugar cane and limejuice to quench your thirst. For unbeatable scenery, take a relaxing drive up Vía Las Palmas, stop for a rest at any of the

miradore stucked away in the Aburrá valley, and marvel at the spectacular panoramic views ofthe expansive city andthe breathtaking northern Andes.

Medellín is bursting at the seams with new talent: the city is going through something of a renaissance, with new architecture and design flourishing, and the quality of local design and talent are at an all time high. Walking down the Primavera and Provenza streets, it is impossible to just window shop with so much enticing behind the glass. Vida Augusta (www.vidaaugusta.com) is filled with cool local creations, from handmade copper lamps to artwork and jewelry. Animalista offers an amazing assortment of men and women’s footwear, both stylish and locally made from organic materials. Wanitta and Makeno are dedicated to showcasing clothes from Colombian fashion designers, and La Guardia’s local craftsmen restore vintage furniture and create custom new styles in Colombian pine and oak.

My adoration for Medellín can largely be attributed to the exceptionally good food that can be found anywhere one chooses to dine. Everything - from traditional fare and street food, to fine dining - is delicious. Antioquia has a history of meat-centric preparations in massive quantities complemented with the most readily available ingredients like corn, potatoes, rice - withplenty of beef, and particularly pork belly which is used to make one of the region’s most popular and delectable dishes, chicharrón. Understanding the local cuisine can only be done by trying a little of everything..The empanadas at El Machetico

(www.empanadaselmachetico.com) are rich, meaty parcels of deliciousness with a squirt of lime and a dab of spicy ají, but the best ones are sold at an unnamed food-stand, outside the Parque Biblioteca España (www.discovercolombia.com/spain-library-metrocable).

Here, you will find the most irresistible empanadas and will be helpless but to try some of the different variations on offer. The traditional dishes of mondongo and cazuela de frijoles (a healthy serving of stewed beans with pork, avocado, plantain and other trimmings), are best prepared at Ajiacos y Mondongos (www.ajiacosymondongos.co).

While the local grub is tasty and filling, there is always room for a refreshing, icy treat at Cholao Santi (www.facebook.com/cholaosanti70), a one-man operated cart on 70th street, serving a concoction of shaved ice, condensed milk, fresh fruit, chocolate malt powder, tropical fruit sauces and cream, that is unbelievably yummy. The best late night street snack (open until 2am on Fridays and Saturdays) can be found at Las Perras de San Marcos near the San Marcos Church in Envigado, where the sausage part of the classic hot dog is replaced with crispy bacon and taken to new heights with the addition of cheese, potato pieces and a host of flavorful, messy sauces. For those seeking a more contemporary foodie experience, Medellín is teeming with chef-owned restaurants whose concepts albeit not traditional Colombian cuisine - are very locally focused. Osea (www.oseamed.co) is a 24-seat restaurant whose young chef sources home-reared pork and rabbit, and grows many of his ingredients right on his own farm.

Meanwhile Naan (www.naansaboresdeindia.com) takes

PARQUE BIBLIOTECA ESPAÑA

inspiration from Indian cuisine but uses locally grown cardamom to season its rice dishes, curries and desserts.

Not only is Medellín ideal for the gastronomic and scenic adventurers amongst us, it also hits the entertainment spot with its huge assortment of pulsating nightlife.

Quaint bars dotted around the metropolis can take you back in time and make you feel right at home. El Café de Otraparte (www.facebook.com/CafedeOtraparte) has a large, airy outdoor patio with an in-house library for brushing up on Colombian and international literature, and is great for sipping Ron Medellín - a local rum whose 8-year aged variety I recommend you try. Meet friends at Rincón de los Recuerdos for a refajomade with beer, a touch of rum and Colombiana (the country’s orange soda that tastes a bit like bubble gum and fruit punch mixed together)-and chill out to the sound of vintage records filling the air. La Tienda (www.latiendaparrandabar.com) in nearby Sabaneta, is where to visit for a classic fonda experience - an inn complete with flashing Christmas lights, animal heads suspended on the walls and a cavorting dwarf to entertain patrons. This experience is truly Paisa, and a popular hangout for localswho rendezvousfor a sing-along, drink the regional aniseed based liquor aguardiente, play the raspa (a rustic cylindrical instrument made of fine grates and played with a long pronged fork) and snack on corn arepas, pork flavored crisps and fresh popcorn. For a more sophisticated ambience, try the bar at Ocio restaurant (www.restauranteocionline.com) or drop into Humo BBQ & Bar for an elaborate cocktail.

In an age of excessive consumerism, technology, social media and general global chaos, Medellín aspires to get back to its roots and to revive the best aspects of a city that was plagued by tragedy and violence for so long.

Medellín is trying to find its identity, a new identity, and it is certainly well on its way to doing so.

Carmen Ángel MUSEO DE ARTE MODERNO

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TRAVELLER LOWDOWN TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

MY MEDELLÍN BY JORGE JULIÁN ARISTIZÁBAL One of the country's most celebrated artists talks to The Cultured Traveller about his hometown of Medellín.

YOU STUDIED ART IN PRESTIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS IN THE US AND EUROPE. WOULD YOU SAY THAT YOU HAVE RETAINED YOUR MAIN CREATIVE INFLUENCES FROM COLOMBIA? An artist is the combination of many things, and one’s country of birth and ethnicity have a big influence on their creative foundations. The places where one has been educated can also greatly impact upon an artist, but never as profoundly as the culture they belong to.

YOU ARE FROM MEDELLÍN, AS IS FAMED ARTIST FERNANDO BOTERO. HAS SUPPORT FOR THE ARTS GROWN BECAUSE OF YOUR AND HIS SUCCESS? Medellín is a very young city in many aspects, and we are just starting to build the appropriate environment to help and support creative people. It is still early days, and the solitary path of the artist is still very difficult, and at the same time very challenging. Botero is a highly respected artist and someone who has been extremely generous to Medellín.

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IT TAKES COURAGE FOR AN ARTIST TO GIVE THE PUBLIC AN OPPORTUNITY TO INTERPRET THEIR ART AS YOU DID DURING THE MEDELLÍN ART FAIR. WHAT WERE YOUR REASONS FOR DOING THIS? That’s exactly what artists do: they challenge the viewer because it is the observer’s interpretation of a piece of art that matters more than anything else. I think that when an artist looses his or her ability to surprise the audience, perhaps something is not quite right. A work should be fresh and exciting. Of course it doesn’t always happen this way, but speaking for myself, this is ultimately my goal - to present stimulating pieces that make people interpret them as they see fit.

PLEASE REVEAL TO US YOU (1) BEACH, (2) PLACE OF NA BEAUTY, AND (3) CULTURA COLOMBIA. The beach of Providencia Island For stunning natural beauty, the Macarena national park. Our co cultural sites are the Escuela de Santo Domingo, and The Nation both in Bogotá.

WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO EAT, DRINK, PLAY AND SLEEP IN MEDELLÍN? The best international cuisine in Medellín is to be found at Naan restaurant, which offers the most delectable Indian food to be found in our corner of the planet. For a typically Colombian taste, I savour the ambience at Ocio, which serves delicious food, especially its slow-cooked meaty specialities.

Ocio’s bar is my favourite in the city. For fun and leisure, I like to spend as much time as possible at home, in my own private space.

And for the best sleep, again, at home in my own bed.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE COLOMBIAN DISH? I have two: empanadas which are pasties with varying fillings, and arepas - the Colombian version of tortillas - that are stuffed or topped with your choice of ingredients.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE HOTEL OR RESORT IN COLOMBIA AND WHY? Casa de Las Aguas is a magical place to stay in the charming town of Honda, set amongst lush, un-spoilt nature. Honda remains relatively unknown so you won’t find crowds of people around. It’s often called ‘the city of bridges’, with more than 25 of them crossing the Magdalena and other major rivers in close proximity.

WHO IS YOUR ULTIMATE COLOMBIAN HERO AND WHY? Without a doubt, my heroes are the under-privileged, the people who face hardship and struggle every day for a better quality of life for themselves and their families.

UR FAVOURITE ATURAL AL SITE IN

d is my favourite.

Serranía de la ountry’s best Artes y Oficios nal Museum -

‘COLOMBIA IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S BEST KEPT TRAVEL SECRETS, AND BECAUSE OF THIS REMAINS AN AUTHENTIC AND UNIQUE DESTINATION FOR VISITORS’ WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES COLOMBIA SUCH A UNIQUE DESTINATION? Colombia is one of the world’s best kept travel secrets, and because of this remains an authentic and unique destination for visitors.

WHY DO YOU THINK THAT COLOMBIA IS A HOT PLACE FOR TOURISTS TO VISIT? Firstly, Colombia offers a diverse range of settings with assorted climates, the continent’s two oceans on either side, jungles, flatlands, mountain ranges and much more. These make the country an intriguing choice for our growing number of visitors. Then, because of past political and social turmoil, Colombia had not developed as a popular travel destination, but these days are different and people are becoming increasingly curious about this exciting, mysterious land. And finally, Colombians are extremely kind people, helpful, happy and friendly. Hospitality is always a big draw for visitors.

WHERE IS YOUR FAVOURITE HIDDEN SPOT IN MEDELLÍN AND WHY? I live in El Museo el Castillo - an area built upon the legend of a Colombian man’s timeless love for his wife. It is fondly known as the Taj Mahal of Colombia - visually perplexing with its peculiar and disproportionately designed structures. Our beautifully fashioned gardens and amazing, locally crafted exhibits make the park here a really interesting place to visit - and a wonderful location for a picnic.

NAME ONE THING A VISITOR TO COLOMBIA SHOULD NOT LEAVE THE COUNTRY WITHOUT SEEING OR EXPERIENCING. To meet the heart of Colombia, visit its small towns, feel our culture, travel by road and stay in places not yet known to mainstream tourism.

www.jorgejulianaristizabal.com

TASTE &SI P CARMEN MEDELLÍN

MARÍA

CARTAGENA

SLOW COOKED COW'S BELLY "SOBREBARRIGA" OVER POTATOES, COULIFLOWER AND TOMATO CHEESE SAUCE MARÍA, CARTAGENA

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ove over Peru, Colombia's restaurant evolution is not just the talk of Latin America but also keen foodies and culinary commentators around the globe.

Colombia possesses an extensive and varied gastronomic repertoire, thanks to the infinite variety of spices, fruits, vegetables and meats available domestically. Bogotá, Medellín and Cartagena are not only hotbeds of budding cooking talent, but also home to some of the

best eateries in the region. Accomplished chefs - like Leonora Espinosa - are taking the produce of this incredibly bio-diverse country and using it as ingredients to lovingly create the most magnificent dishes imaginable, boasting detail and depth in addition to unique flavours and glorious colours. A trip to Colombia is not only a treat for the eyes and ears but also a culinary tour de force for the tastebuds.

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Food Atmosphere

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eing a details man myself I completely believe in Carmen's motto "Love is in the details". Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, one of the pioneers of modern architecture, was spot on when he coined his iconic aphorism back in the 1950's, and it's a mantra I try to live by day-to-day. If you are going to do something do it properly or not at all. The details are oh so important. A restaurant can serve the most spectacular food but poor service can let down everything and a customer can leave feeling like he's had a floored experience, irrespective of how delectable the cuisine was. This is the difficult thing about running a restaurant - there are so many variables to get right. Just one, tiny thing can spell disaster for an otherwise incredible meal. A truly great restaurant is one where everything happens in seamless equilibrium. McDonalds is a global megabrand because it sells fast, satisfying food that's delivered hot and quickly. It may not be my preferred meal, but the experience is complete and all parts of the product work in unison.

While in Medellín I snacked on an empanada purchased from a tiny shop on a side street close to my

hotel. My friend Dwight told me that these were not to be missed. He was right. That was my first empanada ever and I shan't forget it in a hurry. I think it cost about a dollar. The taste was sensational and I had a memorable food experience in little more than a few minutes.

Halfway back to my hotel I stopped in my tracks and pondered turning back to get another. I literally stood on the pavement and thought about the pros and cons of a second empanada. People passing must have thought I was a loon, since I do believe I may have been talking to myself. Had I not been having dinner at Carmen that night, I would almost certainly have turned back.

It has to be said that Carmen is much hyped. It has been lauded by the New York Times and many other similar such media statesmen. This makes the job of a restaurateur harder not easier. Delivering top quality fare, impeccably served and getting all the variables right, night after night, is hard enough. But doing it when people are coming through the door expecting a mind-blowing culinary happening, rather than just looking for a bloody good meal, makes the life of a restaurant-owner more difficult than one can imagine. Thankfully the owners of

Carmen have each other to lean on and bounce ideas between. Husband and wife team Rob Pevitts and Carmen Ángel trained at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in San Francisco, and their creativeness and zest pretty much echo the philosophy of the reborn city in which they live. Not dissimilar to Medellín’s vibrant new architecture (Biblioteca España and MAMM) and funky modes of public transport (escalators and cable cars), this Colombian-American gastronomic power couple have forged a niche for themselves in Colombia’s restaurant industry, by reimagining dishes with vitality and flair, and serving them in visually-pleasing, elegant yet warm surroundings. Their restaurant - separated into three distinct areas - is a tribute to chic, rustic minimalism, and their cooking fuses traditional Colombian ingredients with selected South American and Asian influences to great and somewhat unique effect.

Long before Carmen herself said hi, I was impressed by the warmth of the welcome and politeness of my server.

He couldn’t have made me feel more at home if he tried.

He recommended I start the evening with Gin Basil, a

A T STE cocktail made with homemade tonic and ginger syrup. He was spot on. The 5-course tasting menu at USD45 poses excellent value and enables the kitchen to shine in a multitude of ways. My starter of homemade shrimp chorizo was delicious - the moist sausage skillfully lifted with coconut spices, and the few spoons of furikake dashi completing the dish perfectly. This was a gentle and delicate start to the meal, and an adept example of the detailed and tenderly prepared dishes to come. The second course of Pacific coast amberjack with plantain crust, served on coconut rice risotto with banana and rum purée and a divine fruit sauce, was beautifully presented

TIRADITO

CARMEN

Food: Atmosphere: Executive chef: Rob Pevitts Co-chef: Carmen Ángel Address: Carrera 36 # 10A-27 El Poblado, Medellín, Colombia Telephone: +57 (4) 311 9625 Email: manuela.carmenrestaurante@gmail.com Website: www.carmenrestaurante.com.co Cuisine: Contemporary Colombian Lunch: Tuesday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Lunch price: Beef tartar (COP 28,000), Bahía Solano (COP 47,000), Strawberries & cream (COP 15,000)

Dinner price: Young octopus (COP 33,000), Pork two ways (COP 45,000), Napoleon (COP 16,000) Ideal meal: 5-course tasting menu including wine pairings (COP 149,000) Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Children: Not welcome Credit cards: All major Parking: Valet available Reviewed by: Nicholas Chrisostomou on 9 November 2015 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

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& SI P

and bursting with flavours. This was an accomplished dish that you could tell had been honed to perfection.

Next up was Carmen’s contemporary take on chicharrón. Pevitts and Ángel’s inspired incarnation of this classic Colombian speciality was modernised with a superb tamarind & palm sugar glaze to the pork, and accompanied with camote purée, Sichuan-style green beans, a spiced pork jus and some crackling, although there was not enough of the latter for me. One can never have too much crackling. Again this dish was tremendously detailed, full of flavours and evidently lovingly assembled.

I could easily have had seconds, it was that tasty. The

The Taste & Sip team chatted with Rob Pevitts Executive Chef Carmen HOW DID YOU COME TO OPEN THE FIRST CARMEN RESTAURANT? I studied at Le Cordon Bleu-California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, which is where I met Carmen. After a few years working in Bay area restaurants and running our catering company, Inspired Table, we were presented with the opportunity to open a restaurant in Medellín with our partner Diego, Carmen’s father.

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE CARMEN'S UNIQUE SELLING POINTS? Our mantra is “love is in the details” and I think we apply that philosophy in everything we do. We have exacting quality standards for our ingredients and we are always trying to push forward and innovate to create new flavours and textures. We also have an amazing team of passionate individuals, many of whom have been with us for 5 years or more.

TELL US ABOUT THE ATMOSPHERE AND THE CUSTOMERS AT CARMEN. Carmen in Medellín enjoys a hip and fun atmosphere that’s never stuffy. We are very proud of the various ambiences that have been able to create. It’s a fine dining restaurant, but leave the suit and tie at home.

Our customers are a lively mix of locals and tourists.

CORDERO

main course of 26-hour slow-cooked beef cheeks was so deeply flavourful I found myself making the meat last as long as possible by slowly placing smaller and smaller pieces in my mouth. A complete triumph, the beef left just enough room for a chocoholic’s dream dessert, ‘Choco-Coco’, comprising coconut pavlova’s, Colombian dark chocolate mousse and devil’s food cake, decorated with a white chocolate foam. This sugary grand finale upheld my belief that all the best meals close with chocolate, in some guise or another.

What keeps people coming to a restaurant is the service, the surroundings, the people who run the show and consistently good cooking. Plus a little bit of music and damn good cocktails. Carmen is the perfect balance of all these elements and so much more than dinner. Even without the eponymous host seated at our table, my experience of Carmen was one of the most memorable meals of my time in Colombia. This is one restaurant which was deserving of all the hype, and to which I would return like a shot.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

WHAT’S THE CREATIVE PROCESS FOR A NEW MAIN COURSE DISH. We draw inspiration from everywhere: maybe a strange new Amazonian fruit, a visit to a museum, a new technique or something that Carmen and I cooked at home. After that, it can be a very organic trial and tweaking period with various key team members contributing to the final product. We perpetually fine-tune, perfecting every dish until it is the best it can possibly be.

HOW DO YOU MANAGE TO RUN THREE RESTAURANTS? It’s all about the team and system; a defined system and passionate, inspired team members that execute excellent standards within that system. It’s also about having fun and creating a family atmosphere.

WHAT'S CARMEN’S SIGNATURE DISH? One of our fish dishes - de Bahia Solano. Even though it has evolved over the years, it will probably always feature on our menu.

NAME ONE GASTRONOMICAL ACHIEVEMENT YOU ASPIRE TO. To never stop evolving and to always strive to be better than the day before. Oh, and if Michelin ever makes it to Colombia, I wouldn’t mind a star or two.

THE F O OD DE BAHÍA SOLANO

PLANTAIN CRUSTED FISH, COCONUT RICE RISOTTO, BABY BANANA & RUM PURÉE PASIONARIA SAUCE Courtesy of Rob Pevitts Executive Chef, Carmen Adapted from an original recipe This dish is on the menu at Carmen in Medellín and Cartagena This recipe serves four people

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INGREDIENTS 800 grams fresh fish (tuna, sea bass, grouper) 80 grams green plantain, paper thin slices 20 grams toasted bread crumbs 5 grams chive coins salt & white pepper to taste Oil for frying Butter for finishing

10 grams brown sugar 80 ml coconut milk, unsweetened 120 ml whipping cream 40 grams butter For the banana rum purée: 200 grams sweet, ripe baby banana (or normal banana) 25 grams butter 25 ml rum

FOR THE RISOTTO 350 grams short grain sushi rice, rinsed 400 grams fresh coconut, grated 600 ml unsweetened coconut water, heated 900 ml fish fume or seafood stock

FOR THE PASIONARIA SAUCE 20 grams curuba fruit 20 grams gulupa fruit 12 grams granadilla fruit 15 grams passion fruit 10 grams honey 30-90 ml fish fume, depending on fruit

PREPARATION For the plantain crust, heat frying oil to 350˚F and deep fry the plantain slices until golden and crispy, about 1 minute. Place on a tray lined with absorbent paper, season to taste with salt, and allow to dry in a warm place (above the oven) for at least 1 hour.

For the coconut cream, combine the coconut milk with the cream and beat with a whisk until thick. Refrigerate.

For the risotto, combine the fresh grated coconut and heated coconut water in a blender and process on high speed for 3 minutes. Strain the mixture, forcefully extracting all the liquid directly into a heavy bottomed pot. Reduce on medium-high heat until approximately 90% of the liquid has evaporated. What will be left is the coconut “titote”, the Colombian name for the concentrated caramelized coconut particles. Reduce the heat to medium, mix in the brown sugar and cook for another few minutes. Add the rice to the pot and parch the rice in the titote, stirring constantly until the majority of the grains become translucent, approximately 3-4 minutes. Add 600 ml of warmed fish or seafood broth and bring to a boil. Cook the rice at a rolling boil for 4-5 minutes, reduce heat to low, and cover. Cook until all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is al dente.

For the baby banana purée, put all ingredients into a small pot and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Transfer to the blender and process for 3-5 minutes until velvety-smooth, pass through a fine mesh strainer. If the purée is too thick, a small amount of fish or seafood broth may be added. Season with salt to taste.

For the pasionaria sauce, put all ingredients into a small pot and bring to just a boil, reserve.

When slightly cooled, process the mixture in the blender on high for 3 minutes, pass through a fine mesh strainer, discard the seeds and pulp. Season with salt to taste.

To finish the dish, slice the fish into four 200 gram portions and season both sides with salt and white pepper. Using a food processor, pulse the plantain chips until a rustic powder forms. Combine the plantain powder with the chives and bread crumbs and mix well, season with salt. Crust 1 side of each portion of fish with the plantain mixture. Heat 2 nonstick pans over medium high heat and add 1 tablespoon of oil to each pan. Place 2 portions of fish in each pan, non-crust side down and sear for 1-2 minutes. Place a tablespoon of butter on top of each portion and roast in the oven for 2-3 minutes. For the risotto, bring the remaining 300 ml of fish or seafood stock to a boil over medium heat, add the rice and cook until almost all of the liquid has been absorbed. Fold in the coconut milk whipped cream and stirring constantly, cook for 2-3 minutes. Finish with a tablespoon of butter, being careful not to over-reduce the coconut cream mixture. The risotto should be creamy and “run” when plated.

Take the pans out of the oven and baste the fish with the pan butter, adding a little more to the pan if necessary. Heat the pasionaria sauce and banana purée over low heat until warm.

Serve the fish over the risotto accompanied by the purée and sauce.

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CARTAGENA Food Atmosphere

A T STE C

olombia’s culinary philosophy has been transformed. Our understanding of dining, eating out and recognising the finest cuisine has become essential to the country’s culture and economy. Incredible chefs of the highest calibre now have a reason to use the rich ingredients of the Andes, Amazon, Pacific and Atlantic oceans - combined with their formal educations and brilliant talents - to grow the identity of Colombian cuisine. As a result, all of the country’s larger cities now have vibrant and sophisticated restaurant scenes. Set within the magical, walled old city,

Situated on a picturesque street in the historic coastal town of Cartagena, we arrived at María via a cobblestone road, with the sound of horses and carriages trotting by.

The double doors with lanterns either side and large windows peeking in to a wild décor, had us enticed from the get-go. Once inside, high ceilings and the use of blue and white gave an airy feel, while the unmissable tiger print on the wall set the place apart as fresh and bold. In the back, the kitchen is shared between the two neighbouring restaurants, Don Juan and María, whose talented chefs create their dishes in astonishing

SEARED YELLOW TAIL TUNA, SPICY PINEAPPLE SAUCE AND MICROGREENS

one of Cartagena’s most esteemed culinary addresses is undoubtedly María.

Celebrated New World cuisine chefs, Juan Felipe Camacho from Ibagué and Alejandro Rámirez from Bogotá, are completely aware that Colombia’s burgeoning food scene has provided them their release of unbound creativity.

The two met as stars on the rise in Cartagena, collaborating to introduce María only after accumulating sound credentials. Rámirez has worked in many kitchens throughout the world including Daniel’s in Manhattan, and Gordon Ramsey in London and Tokyo. Camacho studied in San Sebastián, Spain, and made a name for himself preparing dishes that reflected his curiosity of the land and its produce. He has consulted for restaurants around the world, in locations such as Panama and New York, and he commands the orders at his accomplished restaurant Don Juan - often name-checked as one of Cartagena’s best eateries, creating unpretentious cuisine that concentrates on produce and getting the very best out of each and every ingredient. Both chefs have come together to create the magic that is their restaurant, María.

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synchrony. From my view at one of the booths, I could appreciate all the eccentric details, from the vibrant tiled flooring to the pineapple chandeliers.

Well-informed staff catered to our every requirement with a friendly and warm manner, displaying a thorough knowledge of the menu items and cocktails on offer.

From sweet mandarin to bitter corozo, and the unusual tree tomato to extremely rare produce like uchuva: these are the splendid fruits of Colombia that were used to make our exquisite, delicious cocktails which we thoroughly enjoyed.

María’s menu is a reflection of the chefs’ travels and features a little bit of everything - rib eye, quinoa, line-caught fish from the Colombian Atlantic and risottos made with the freshest ingredients delivered daily. Sea-foodies can savour tempura fish and chips, and a delectable lobster sandwich with dill, served with home-made mayonnaise and other funky condiments, whilst meat lovers can indulge in meatballs with mint and fresh tomato sauce, or the tempting sour pork cubes on rice with peppers and onions.

& SI P As the plates started to arrive, we were dazzled by the way in which this culinary artistry acquired both robust flavours as from the aromatic lamb sliders - to subtle delights for the senses with the exceptional tuna tataki. My absolutely favorite dish however, was the grilled fresh sea bass with artichoke and cassava ragout - an intense taste experience that was captivating from beginning to end.

When I asked Alejandro about his inspiration, he simply replied, ‘I cook what I love to eat’.

In his quest for the finest produce, Rámirez has created a

GRILLED SEABASS OVER A BEETROOT RISOTTO AND FETA CHEESE

menu filled with taste sensations, executed with the utmost purity utilising traditional cooking techniques hailing from all over the globe. The flavours of many of the dishes served at María are fiery and the textures intriguing, composed using ingredients from extremely diverse climates around Colombia, which offer the possibility to produce plates that surprise and impress.

Rámirez is on the frontline of serving fine cuisine in the search for simplicity, truly creating a name for himself and contemporary Colombian cuisine.

Sophia Brault

CORDERO

MARÍA

Food: Atmosphere: Executive chef: Alejandro Rámirez Address: Calle del Colegio # 34 - 64, Local 2, Cartagena, Colombia Telephone: +57 316 524 7046 Email: reservas@mariacartagena.com Website: www.mariacartagena.com Cuisine: Contemporary Colombian Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Lunch price: Sea bass ceviche (COP 26,000), Sea bass grilled over red risotto and feta cheese (COP 39,000), chocolate

rice pudding with vanilla ice cream and cocadas (COP 15,000).

Dinner price & ideal meal: Beef tataki (COP 27,000), grilled sea bass with artichoke and cassava ragout (COP 39,000), white chocolate soup, bitter chocolate biscuit, uchuva jam and mint (COP 15,000).

Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Children: Welcome. High chairs available. No kids menu Credit cards: All major Parking: No parking Reviewed by: Sophia Brault on 10 November 2015 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

www.aguademar.com.co

JUANES

LATIN AMERICA’S BIGGEST ST THE CULTURED TRAVELLER AB 102

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TAR, GRAMMY AWARD-WINNING LEGEND JUANES TALKED EXCLUSIVELY TO BOUT HIS MUSICAL JOURNEY TO INTERNATIONAL STARDOM, POLITICS, HIS HUMANITARIAN FOUNDATION AND MEDELLÍN, HIS HOMETOWN

How difficult was it to leave your band Ekhymosis at possibly one of the most successful points in your careers?

It was not difficult because we had learned and grown together for a long time and decided to each follow our own individual dreams and projects. Our first show took place in Envigado, a little neighbourhood in Medellín on the 17th March 1988, and in our 12 years together I learned a huge amount and we achieved a lot.

What inspires your lyrics more, politics or the love of your people?

Loco De Amor album it was totally different: from the moment I started to write the songs, no fear ever entered my mind.

How was your latest tour in Colombia different to previous ones?

My hope was to connect with places I’d not visited before, and I took the show that gave me so much inspiration to do that. At the same time, I wanted to know more about each region, know its concerns and wishes, but above all, unite hearts through music. We wanted Loco De Amor to take off in a different way. I wanted to get closer to Colombia through art and music; to give dignity, importance and relevance to other areas of the country, and break with the established touring schedules.

I wanted to get closer to Colombia through art and music; to give dignity, importance and relevance to other areas of the country

Both, but I am mostly inspired by love. Love of my country, my family, of human beings. Love is the most powerful energy we have in this life. Everything is about love and particularly with my 2014 album Loco De Amor, I wrote songs as if observing a ray of love through a prism and its approach to relationships, how love sometimes takes us through stages that are extremely wonderful or extremely terrible and how after that, there is an immense feeling of emptiness - and everything has to do with that feeling of love. That’s why I wanted to make an album about that topic.

Your band was arguably one of the pioneers of Latin Rock, influencing many others. Did the change between being in a rock band and going solo have a significant effect on your own musical influences at the time?

No. I have always liked many different types of music. The first show I ever went to, when I was 6 or 7 years old, was that of Argentinian band Los Hermanos Visconti. They sang popular, folkloric songs. I also went to see Dueto de Antaño, a ballad group from Medellín. As a young teen I got into heavy metal bands such as Kraken and Reencarnación, and although I moved from folklore to metal, my tastes have always remained varied. I grew up listening to (tango legend) Carlos Gardel and then became obsessed with Metallica!

Which are your favourite places in Medellín and why?

I love Parque Lleras: it is beautiful and has some great restaurants. My true favorite place is my home right outside of the city.

Where outside of Colombia have you enjoyed your most memorable experiences?

I have been lucky enough to go to many amazing places, but last summer I went to Israel for the first time on tour and it was an amazing experience. We visited Jerusalem and it is a place so full of spirituality, it was very moving. I also had a great time when I visited McFarland in the US. I wrote music for the film (of the same name) which was released in early 2015, and met local people, out on the street, that were extremely happy and thankful that the film was going to put McFarland on the global map.

I have always been public with my beliefs and politics, so I do not think I have had to compromise them to succeed

Have you ever been afraid of putting certain lyrics out publicly?

Of course, because writing music is very personal. There is something curious…fear is our worst enemy and if you create something based on fear, it will always end badly. With the 104 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

La Camisa Negra generated a lot of controversy for different reasons in different countries: political in Italy, sexual in the Dominican Republic. How do you interpret these reactions to the song?

I think the lyrics lend themselves to be interpreted in different ways. I see how people find different messages in it. I have been a solo artist since 2000 and I have enjoyed an incredible career. I’ve experienced so many

amazing things and I’m so grateful to my fans for their support: (the song is also used in Spanish language classes across the United States). I think it’s awesome … music and art are wonderful mediums for teaching.

Have you ever had to compromise your beliefs or politics in order to succeed?

I have always been public with my beliefs and politics so I do not think I have had to compromise them to succeed. I live my music intensely and through my music I express my feelings - the good and bad.

There is always a fine line and you sometimes cross it, sometimes not, I try to avoid making mistakes but equally we are all here to learn. I believe in music and I believe in its culture as a means to create peace.

In 2005 Time magazine named you as one of the world’s 100 most influential people. Has this title had any effect in your life?

It made it clear to me that people are watching what I do, made me look at myself as a role model, and made me step back and see how my actions may influence others.

Please tell us about your humanitarian work and what made you establish Mi Sangre Foundation.

Growing up in Colombia, I saw a lot of pain and suffering from the effects of land mines. What is happening in the world today is something difficult to look at, and music is something that can be used as a tool to send powerful messages. The foundation is in the best place it has ever been, we have a great leader and spectacular team, and are continuing our strong work not just in relation to mines but also to bring to the forefront of people’s minds everything that is related to peace.

We are working with adolescent mine victims and connecting with them through art. Now more than ever we believe that it’s worthwhile and important to focus on the arts as a way to build peace in our societies.

Outside of Medellín, which is your favourite place in Colombia and what makes it so special to you?

I love Cartagena. I have many great memories of going there with my wife and kids, paddle boarding and enjoying the old city.

Which is your favourite Colombian food dish?

My favourite dish is arepa, a corn or flour based flatbread that you can stuff with cheese, eggs, meat and other fillings.

Medellín hosts a variety of yearly festivals - what’s your favourite?

La Feria de las Flores is a festival that is truly beautiful. I highly recommend it to visitors.

What would you say influenced and shaped you musically?

I was very into metal music growing up. Playing metal music helped me develop my guitar skills. I don’t know what else I would do as music is the way I express myself.

I've learned many lessons in life and I have loved music since I was a child. I would love to record some lines in English or maybe do a couple of things in English. But I can’t imagine doing a whole English album because I feel more comfortable singing in Spanish. I think that it is also part of my culture; I need to feel connected to my roots.

Please describe your experience singing at the December 2007 Nobel Peace Prize Concert and what it meant to you?

It was a very beautiful experience. Being surrounded by these influential people all sending a message of peace

was quite moving. I hope that music will always continue to be used to hightlight peace, unity and tolerance in our societies.

You have performed duets with stars such as Carlos Santana, Tony Bennett, and John Legend. How was sharing a stage with them?

It is always an honour sharing the stage with such talented musicians.

With whom would you like to duet next?

There are a lot of people who I would like to sing with, especially Ed Sheeran or Maroon 5.

Where would you tell a traveller they could find Colombia’s best kept secrets?

They should visit the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá. It is beautiful. Also, if they like the ocean, to go to the Islas del Rosario where they will find the most beautiful beaches.

What Colombian souvenir is a must-have for visitors to your country?

A traditional Colombian hat, sombrero vueltiao. Also visitors must see the unmissable documentary, Magia Salvaje, because it showcases the very best of our country. www.juanes.net

February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 107

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IMAGE BY SONIA LA HOZ

GLOBETROTTER

FREQUENTLY NAMECHECKED AS ONE OF THE COUNTRY'S BEST-DRESSED INDIVIDUALS, OFTEN SEEN GRACING THE PAGES OF SOUTH AMERICA'S GLOSSIEST MAGAZINES, AND ROUTINELY CONSULTED FOR FASHION AND ART ADVICE, GLORIA SALDARRIAGA TALKED EXCLUSIVELY TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HER HERITAGE, THE PASSIONS THAT FUEL HER CREATIVITY AND WHAT INSPIRED THE VAMPIRELA BAG, PLUS HER FAVOURITE DESIGNERS IN COLOMBIA AND THE UK

Graphic design was your chosen career, so how did you make the transition into fashion?

I think my first transition was from art to fashion. I used to run a contemporary art gallery and was always involved in fashion from my modelling days in my hometown of Medellin.

Please describe your style to international readers It’s very difficult for me to describe this, as I don’t like being boxed in to one particular style. I think that I have a very aesthetic eye and I like everything, but I also have confidence in the things that look good and don’t like feeling restricted. I would say that confidence and spontaneity are key, and whilst fashion can have a serious context you should live it in a spontaneous manner. I don’t follow fashion because I am fashion!

Which Colombian designers or fashion houses have inspired you the most?

There are certain designers who have enjoyed a long trajectory.

For me, Olga Piedrahita is more than a designer, she is also an artist. She creates concepts around her collections and that is what I find so inspiring.

How has fashion changed in Colombia in the last decade?

When and how did you become involved in the art world?

When I got married 12 years ago I moved from Medellin to Bogota, and being a graphic designer I always had sensibilities rooted in art. Many of my teachers and friends were artists so my husband and I decided to start collecting Colombian works of art. The process of being a collector is very beautiful. You start off collecting pieces that are from your generation and your country, then as you become more of an expert you realise that your mind has been opened to other potentials and other mediums. So for example you can then move from purchasing a painting to an installation or even performance art. The whole process really became just a joy, so eventually my husband and I decided to open up a gallery ‘Alcuadrado’ (a Spanish play on words that can mean squared but also implies the frame of a painting). The gallery was very pioneering and was appointed as the elite of contemporary art in Colombia. We took risks, broke the mould and introduced things that had never been done before- like showcasing exhibitions in non-art spaces.

I have made it my work to support Colombian designers and I’m generally dressed in their garments, something that I take great pride in.

I would say that designers haven’t changed but the general public have. I have made it my work to support Colombian designers and I’m generally dressed in their garments, something that I take great pride in. The people of Colombia are now embracing national designers and have changed their view about wearing Colombian! I travel expensively and I’m always delighted that each time I wear something from home everyone always notices it, without it being a particular artisan piece. Our designers have made the transition into dressing the global woman, which makes me very pleased.

Why do you think Medellin has become one of the key fashion spots in Latin America?

Medellin has hosted the Colombia Moda conference for the last 26 years and as a result has always been one of the pioneers and incubators of fashion. The event is very ambitious in terms of content, and has placed Colombia and Medellin in the orbit of the fashion satellite of Latin America.

You were recently named as one of the ‘top 5 best dressed women in Colombia’ by Vogue. Does that accolade help to influence your style or does it not matter at all?

I have no interest in such accolades! I accept and appreciate their comments however it makes no difference to me because I don’t see myself as someone better than another- in either art or fashion.

You have reached critical and commercial heights in both fashion and art. How much did one influence another in terms of curating galleries or fashion shows?

Others may consider me an expert however I’ve never considered myself an specialist in either of these areas! As I mentioned before, I’m very spontaneous and so I would say I’m more of an enthusiast in spite of being asked my opinion on so many different things. I do like being a spokesperson for things that I like, as I love being able to support designers or artists so that others may be able to discover them. I am an enthusiast for life, art and fashion, and fortunately one’s eye becomes more February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 111

educated and refined over time. Age also gives you a delicious security to make decisions!

Does your love of using unusual spaces to exhibit art shows extend to your fashion collection?

I buy pieces that are also works of art because of my background, however fashion has become so democratic that for example Exito, (Colombia’s largest supermarket chain), have now curated a fashion collection from national designers. I find that fascinating because even though they may make 100 jackets of the same style, how you wear one is not going to be in the same way that someone else does. I like exclusive fashion but I am also disposed to wear something that 200 others have purchased because it becomes a challenge to wear it with your own panache.

You seem to be a person who likes to take risks.

What is the riskiest fashion statement you have made?

Wearing hats! In this country this is not a popular garment so when I wear hats people are a little shocked, but I don’t wear them for that reason, I wear them because I just love them.

I would definitely say that hats and fans are my trademark!

What are the most important things you pack when travelling abroad?

A pashmina. I can wear it in so many different waysas a scarf, dress, shawl, headscarf- it is super useful.

I have made it my work to support Colombian designers and I’m generally dressed in their garments, something that I take great pride in.

Do you think being a graphic designer made it easier for you to produce your own handbag collection, or do you think you were a lot more critical because of your background?

This was easy for me because it’s part of my essence. The handbags came about because- like everything in my life- it was something very spontaneous. My friend has had the brand for many years (Postino), and I’ve always liked it but it never really ‘got’ me. A year ago I asked her if I could produce a collection for her and she agreed.

The symbiosis has worked so well because she is an expert in leathers and I have my graphic design. It’s been a lovely collaboration, and there is a bag called ‘Vampirela’ that attracts much attention. It was inspired on a very personal level. I have a cartoon of myself which is called ‘El Bestiario de Gloria’ which I use on social media in order to showcase products in a less obvious way. I get sent many things and don’t want to feel obliged to wear one thing or another, so this was a way to deflect 112 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

certain comments and make my fashion and styling fun. This is my business alter ego, and somewhere I don’t need to feel any kind of embarrassment about what I’m wearing. It’s a very recent creation and we’ve come up with just 9 different caricatures of myself so far. The Vampirela was also inspired

by Fendi and Anya Hindmarch, who use caricatures or eyes on some of their collections.

Vampirela has fangs because in this way I’m laughing at my own imperfections, as I have little fangs myself! My teeth are horrible! People are going crazy on social media, using so many filters to make themselves or their lives look perfect, but I’m the opposite- I’m happy to show my flaws!

When I was unable to make Frieze in London I sent a cut out version of myself and my wardrobe, my cartoon has been a useful creation all round!

Tell us about your decision to resign from your gallery, Alcuadrado.

My husband died six years ago and I remained at the gallery for a further six months. After that I couldn’t carry on as this was our joint project, a project made with love. We complimented eachother enormously. But in spite of resigning from the gallery, I have not resigned from my passions. I’m still very much involved in art, exhibitions, collections…just in a different way.

Has your style and creativity been influenced by the death of your husband, given that you were such a united and artistic team?

When you are with a person you are left with their fingerprints, their DNA. My husband was a hugely creative person and he changed my way of life. The legacy he has left me with is something very special, however his passing has not changed my creativity.

You and your husband have been great champions of promoting Colombian art internationally. Where in the world do you think have been the most well received collections? And why?

We travelled to so many places but I think that a

compilation we sold in Switzerland to a now closed public collection called Daros was something very important, because it was the first time anyone had recognised Colombia as having a serious artistic potential. They bought many Colombian works of art which were old and no-one in Colombia had been interested in, yet Daros had a vision and as a result helped to elevate the profile of many Colombian artists on an international level.

Who are the most exciting fashion designers emerging in Colombia right now?

Johanna Ortiz is the ‘most’ – although I’m not a fan of using that wordshe is a supremely hard working designer and the first in Colombia to be able to sell in Moda Operandi, Pret a Porter so she has been the most widely recognised on an international level.

Aside for weather-appropriate dressing, are there huge differences in style in between Bogota, Medellin and Cartagena?

Fashion has really opened up, and sadly even the weather too because of global warming so climates are not longer than distinct.

In Bogota it would be strange to see people wearing pastels, white jeans or open toed shoes for example, (Bogota is

cold), but now you see them much more often.

The only differences are logical ones..if you are on the coast you won’t be wearing a fur jacket!

What are the most important fashion items we should wear when traveling in Colombia?

A hat and a ‘Ruana’!

(This is a Colombian poncho, made from wool.

And a very typical Andean item.) I have one that they designed specially for Nairo Quintana (Colombia’s top cyclist and one of the best in the world), when he won the Italian tour.

It’s pink because that is the colour jersey they present to the winner, so it was specially created in homage to him because he comes from Boyaca, the region where he is from, which is famous for their ruanas!

What is your view on British fashion and who do you think are the best Brit designers?

British fashion has influenced the whole world. It started off with ‘swinging London’ which was THE fashion.

Vivienne Westwood and many designers who graduated from St Martins have been very important for the rest of us. For men, Saville Row tailoring has been incredible, and Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney, Phillip Treacy and Cutler & Gross have all broken the mould. I adore their brands.

February/March 2016 The Cultured Traveller 115

A Acqua Santa www.acquasantahotel.com Ajiacos y Mondongos www.ajiacosymondongos.co Andrés DC www.andrescarnederes.com/es

El Café de Otraparte www.facebook.com/CafedeOtraparte El Gato Gris www.gatogris.com El Machetico www.empanadaselmachetico.com

Apache www.clickclackhotel.com

El Pescador de Colores www.elpescadordecolores.com

Astrid & Gastón www.astridygastonbogota.com

El Son De Los Grillos www.elsondelosgrillos.com

Au Room www.wbogota.com/en/auroom Avianca www.avianca.com

Entremonte Wellness Hotel & Spa www.entremonte.com

B

F

Barranquilla Carnival www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org

Festival Of Lights www.villadeleyva-boyaca.gov.co/listado_eventos.shtml

Bastion www.bastionluxuryhotel.com

Festival Of The Sea www.fiestadelmar.com.co

Best Restaurants Colombia www.bestrestaurantsincolombia.com

Festival Of Wayuú Culture www.colombia.com/turismo/ferias-y-fiestas/festivalde-la-cultura-wayuu

C

Flower Fair www.feriadelasfloresmedellin.gov.co

Carmen www.carmenrestaurante.com.co Casa Galavanta www.galavanta.com Casa San Isidro www.restaurantecasasanisidro.com Case de las Aguas www.facebook.com/casa.delasaguas Céntrico www.centrico.co

G Galería Valenzuela-Klenner www.vkgaleria.com Guatavita www.colombia.travel

H

Cesar Giraldo www.cesargiraldo.com.co

Hay Festival www.hayfestival.com/cartagena/en-index.aspx

Cholao Santi www.facebook.com/cholaosanti70

Helistar www.helistar.com.co

Ciudad del Rio www.ciudaddelrio.com

Hotel Boutique Don Pepe www.facebook.com/hotelboutiquedonpepe?_rdr=p

CopaAirlines www.copaair.com Criterion www.hermanosrausch.com

D Deep Blue www.hoteldeepblue.com Donostia www.elorigendelacomida.co/donostia

E EasyFly www.easyfly.com.co

116 The Cultured Traveller February/March 2016

I Independence Of Cartagena www.srtacolombia.org International Tango Festival www.festivaldetangomedellin.com

L La Tienda www.latiendaparrandabar.com LAN www.lan.com

Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants www.theworlds50best.com/latinamerica/en

Per Se www.olgapiedrahita.com

Leo Cocina Y Cava www.leococinaycava.com

Popayan Easter Procession www.semanasantapopayan.com

Little Indian Superstar www.facebook.com/littleindiansuperstar

Q

Loto del Sur www.lotodelsur.com

Queen Victoria www.facebook.com/queenvictoriabar

M María www.mariacartagena.com Market Kitchen www.marketkitchenbogota.com Matiz www.matizrestaurante.com Merecumbe Hotel www.merecumbehotel.com/en Mi Viejo www.miviejo.co Miss Colombia Pageant www.srtacolombia.org Monserrate www.cerromonserrate.com Movich Buró 51 www.movichhotels.com/esp/Pages/home-movich.aspx Museo de Antioquia www.museodeantioquia.co Museo de Arte Moderno www.elmamm.org

S San Alberto www.cafesanalberto.com/en Satena www.satena.com Sazagua www.sazagua.com Sites www.en.siteshotel.com Sofitel Legend Santa Clara www.sofitel-legend.com/en

T The Orchids www.theorchidshotel.com/home/es

V

Museo del Oro www.banrep.gov.co/museo

Vallenato Legend Festival www.festivalvallenato.com

N

Vida Augusta www.vidaaugusta.com

Naan www.naansaboresdeindia.com

VivaColombia www.vivacolombia.co

O

W

Ocio www.restauranteocionline.com

W Bogota www.wbogota.com

Opera In The Park www.filarmonicabogota.gov.co/newsite/etiquetas/ope ra-al-parque

World Salsa Festival www.mundialdesalsa.com

Osea www.oseamed.co

P Pablo Tobón www.teatropablotobon.com Parque Biblioteca España www.discovercolombia.com/spain-library-metrocable Parque Explora www.parqueexplora.org

Z Zipaquirá Salt Cathedral www.catedraldesal.gov.co/en

Situated on the northern shores of the Dead Sea, set an amazing 400 metres below sea level on the shores of the world’s deepest salt lake and in a land teeming with history.

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Remarkable and stunning.