The Bangkok BigChilli. October 2013.

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LIFE ON THE HORIZON

S´Cape Resort Condominium, Koh Samui comprises 76 exclusive freehold condominiums on a stunning 2.8-acre hillside destination just minutes from Samui International Airport. One- and two-bedroom units feature impressive Jacuzzi balconies and the super luxurious Penthouses have private pools. All units are overlooking stunning sunsets and picturesque views. S'Cape is located in Plai Laem, one of the most sought-after locations in Samui which is close to Chaweng, Fisherman's Village and some of the island's top hotels and restaurants.

Image produced is for advertisement purposes only.

T : M: E : W:

Image produced is for advertisement purposes only.

Image produced is for advertisement purposes only.

+66 (0) 77 430 327 (Samui) +66 (0) 909 656 414 (Bangkok) info@s-capesamui.com www.s-capesamui.com facebook.com/SCapeSamui

Disclaimer: Project Owner & Developer: Samui Sands Co., Ltd. whose office is located at 3/15 Moo 1 Bo Phut-Plai Laem Road, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand Registered Capital: 240,000,000 baht - fully paid. Project Location: 99 Moo 5 Plai Laem Soi 7, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320 Thailand. Sales Office: Construction Site. Expected Completion: 1st-quarter of 2014. Information presented is deemed accurate at the time of publication. The Developer reserves the right to change any information and/or condition without prior notice.

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FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT IN BANGKOK

October 2013 08 INSIGHT News, letters, gossip and more 12 GAME FOR A LAUGH How German Expat Fabian Wiener plans to boost board gaming culture in Thailand 24 ANGEL OF THE SLUMS Prateep Unsongtham Hata and her amazing work in Klong Toey 29 GOURMET A round up of all the best restaurant deals and gourmet events in Bangkok 56 BANGKOK’S TRAFFIC BEATERS All you ever wanted to know about the city’s motorcycle taxis 61 EXPAT WOMEN Health, shopping, people, advice and an interview with Bangkok’s Broadway Babe! 83 WHAT’S ON Exhibitions, performance, sport, networking – we’ve got this month’s best events all wrapped up 93 SOCIAL Last month’s best events in pictures 125 DIPLOMATS The German Ambassador talks about her country’s rich relationship with Thailand 131 HUA HIN Deals and news 143 PATTAYA Hot news from the Eastern Seaboard

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LM fiasco: Who’s to blame? THE catastrophic collapse of LM Investment Management (LMIM) in Australia continues to send shockwaves through Thailand’s expatriate community, some of whom have lost their life’s savings in the scheme and now face a future of monumental uncertainty. Months after being told their investments were to all intents and purposes worthless, many are still reeling from the shock, unsure whether to blame LM for the failure, the independent financial advisers who sold them the fund or the regulators back in Australia for their negligence in safeguarding investors’ money. Or themselves for being overly trusting. Certainly LM and its head honcho Peter Drake must shoulder much of the responsibility for the collapse of the fund – poor management, unrealistic returns on investment forecast and some questionable loans to its senior personnel. One must also raise the possibility that it increased its commissions in the latter stages of an inevitable collapse in a last-minute attempt to rescue the company. This is speculation only, but the high returns it paid for a while had echoes of a classic ponzi scheme. The role of the IFAs is extremely contentious as well. Some investors are amazingly charitable, saying they were only doing their job, selling what they believed was a sound investment; others, however, are far less understanding, insisting that no diligence was carried out, the IFAs were interested only in their commissions and none raised a warning flag when LM’s problems began to emerge. To illustrate their ineptitude, or shameless greed, some of these advisers were offering LM funds just days before going into administration. They in turn are pointing fingers at the Australian regulatory system, which they claim has not only failed in its responsibilities but also done irreparable damage to the country’s image as a safe haven for investors. Can the investors themselves take any blame? Of course not. Many of LM’s victims were conservative, a little naive and wholly reliant on IFAs for financial advice. The fall-out from this fiasco is huge and industry-changing. It’s also desperately sad, with scores of people left shocked, penniless and with virtually no means to recover. As for the IFAs, there’s already evidence that a shake-out has begun, with some of these so-called financial advisers fleeing the scene to escape potential legal battles, their pockets full and with every intention of repeating their dubious business practices elsewhere.

Abhisit’s new voice HAS Democrat Party leader Abhisit Vejjajva been taking lessons on how to address a Thai audience? Anybody who’s heard him speaking English, which he does perfectly and in a rather gentlemanly British manner, would certainly believe so if they’d heard him recently at a rally for his supporters in Bangkok’s Yannawa district. Gone is the soft English and in its place a far more aggressive tone and labored pronunciation. Referring in his speech to his great rivals, Abhisit bellowed slowly for maximum effect: “Ying…luk Shin-a-wat-ra” and her brother “Thak…sin Shina-a-watra.” Lots of feeling there, and miles from the way he’d say their names in English. So, yes, Abhisit is clearly taking a leaf from his more boisterous political rivals.

OK to be grumpy

IT’S not just the hot weather or the rain or the sheer drudgery of the job that make motorcycle taxi drivers occasionally grumpy. As is pointed out in our story this month on Bangkok’s two-wheel taxis, the drivers have to ‘buy’ their jobs in the form of a vest that distinguishes them from other motorcyclists and allows them to pick up passengers. The fee they have to pay for that all-important piece of clothing can be as much as 140,000 (and sometimes even more) for the privilege of driving up and down a few streets, day and night, in return for 10-20 baht a ride. That’s one heck of an expensive vest.

Correction

IN the September issue of The BigChilli it was inaccurately reported that Gianni Ristorante would be relocating from its current premises on Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road to the Dusit Thani Bangkok. This information is incorrect. Gianni Ristorante has absolutely no plans to move from its present location. The BigChilli apologizes for any damage this story caused Gianni Favro and his Restaurant. So all of Gianni’s customers should rest easy that their favourite restaurant is not moving.

Our rare mistakes

SOMETIMES we make a mistake. It doesn’t happen very often – in fact, hardly at all. Which, given the fact that we write as many words per month as you’d find in a decent novel, is not a bad record. Beyond that, The BigChilli is in the business of entertaining and informing our readers; we’re not interested in blackening anyone’s reputation for the sake of it. We’re far better off maintaining the good relationship we enjoy with 99.9% of our readers and advertisers. If the odd error does creep in to an article, then maybe it should be balanced against all the good work we’ve done for our audience over the past 14 years.

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TheBigChilli

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Publisher Colin Hastings editorbigchilli@gmail.com MANAGING Editor Adam Purcell adambigchilli@gmail.com Editor Nina Hastings ninabigchilli@gmail.com Assistant Editor Chutinanta Boonyamarn nanbigchilli@gmail.com Sales & Marketing Manager Rojjana Rungrattwatchai sendtorose@gmail.com Account Executive Thana Pongsaskulchoti thanabigchilli@gmail.com Accounting Manager Saranya Choeyjanya fatcatbigchilli@gmail.com Art & Production Arthawit Pundrikapa, Jaran Lakawat Photography Mini Bike Gang, David Heischrek and WJ Cover photography this month by David Heischrek Contributing Writers Anette Pollner, Johanna DeKoning, Judith Coulson, Martine Olthof, Maxmilian Wechsler, Paul Hewitt

Our online handle is ‘thebigchillimagazine’. Simply type this into Facebook’s search box, find the image of our magazine, then just click add.

We are now on Twitter. Find out what’s happening around town, which events to attend, parties to be seen at, and read all the juicy gossip! Follow us at ‘TheBigChilliMag’ No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from The BigChilli Co., Ltd. The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily the views of the publishers. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the publisher, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. The editor reserves the right to accept, reject or amend any submitted artwork, photographs, illustrations and manuscripts. The BigChilli welcomes unsolicited contributions but assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of such materials damaged or lost in transit.

The BigChilli Company Ltd., 1/7 5th Fl. Room 504, Siboonrueng Bldg. 2, Convent Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02 233 1774-6, 02 266 7141 Fax: 02 235 0174 e-mail: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com AD Foodland_May13.indd 1

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letters Insight

Inbox|Have your say

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HAVE YOUR SAY! Write to us at: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

TIME TO READ THE SMALL PRINT

■ PEOPLE who invest in funds that claim to offer six or seven, or even more percent on their investment are incredibly naïve, and have only themselves to blame if the scheme collapses. Apart from such unrealistic expectations (when banks are giving minute amounts on savings), they should read the small print, which invariably states that rates may go up or down. As they say, fools and their money are easily parted. J.S. UK

TAXI TO THE PAST

HAMMER TIME

■ I ENJOYED your story about Bangkok’s

taxis. The photographs of taxis from the old days brought back all kinds of memories – good and bad. Good because they were, and still are, an incredibly cheap way to get around town. But bad when I recall the days before they were air-conditioned. Sitting in a taxi stuck in an endless traffic jam (and they were awful back in the ’70s) with no cooling was torture, especially as the seats were covered in thick plastic and the open windows let in clouds of diesel fumes and other horrible gases from the other vehicles. Boy, did we love it when they finally installed air-conditioners. David James, Bangkok

TAXI TIPS ■ YOUR story about Taxi drivers in the September issue was interesting (P.80-85). I have used taxis in Bangkok most of my life and, despite the introduction of the BTS and MRT in Bangkok, I still find them the most convenient way to travel in Bangkok. Having said that, there are things that I find really annoying; such as when drivers don’t have any change (how convenient) or refuse to take me where I want to go. Isn’t that illegal? A bit of advice: Striking up a conversation with the driver always ensures a better ride for you and the driver. Oh, and a small tip goes a very long way! N. A. Bangkok

■ I RECENTLY had a great day out at the Pattaya auction you mentioned in the last issue of your magazine. Browsing the incredible assortments of goods for sale was fascinating. How on earth did a German army uniform end up here in Thailand? The auction was fun too, with debonair John Collingbourne taking things in his stride. Another question: how come almost everybody at the auction is western – don’t Thais like auctions? Daisy M. Thonburi Thai people generally don’t like second-hand goods or property, though that seems to be changing albeit slowly – Ed.

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News|The Big Debate

The Big Debate

Overfishing is “yesterday’s myth” Presenting an alternative view of one of the major issues of our time

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■ OUR article in last month’s BigChilli

‘Fish off the menu’ prompted numerous responses from readers of the magazine. Some roundly applauded the story and its warnings about overfishing, while others disputed its content. To get an alternative view on the matter we contacted a member of Australia’s seafood industry, who, in a letter to us, suggested that the situation isn’t as bad as some would have us believe. To present this alternative view, we are publishing here an edited version of his major criticisms. He begins by insisting that allegations of overfishing are “yesterday’s myths” and most have been “resoundingly disproven in recent years, or have been overtaken by remedial actions decades old.” He also comes to the defence of farmed salmon, saying that “farmed fish are not only the most sustainably raised food animals in the world, and are feeding the planet – they are the solution to not over-fishing wild stocks.” He goes on: “All the scare stuff about salmon was trendy ten years ago when the greenies who knew nothing about the subject started hypothesizing about all the things that could go wrong (led along by wild salmon producers – the farms’ competitors). “Most salmon farms are now

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certified as sustainable and ethical (to internationally agreed standards) or they can’t find markets. Even the major green NGOs no longer oppose the industry.” He then turns his attention to Boris Worm’s ‘End of the Line’ book/movie which received massive public attention when it appeared several years ago claiming the last fish would be eaten in 2048. “Guess what?,” he asks. “Boris has since recanted and now agrees fishing can be sustainable – and is making a new movie about that.” Destruction of mangroves due to shrimp farming is another myth, he says. “The number of ponds has been significantly reduced due to productivity improvements and Thailand’s mangrove forests are expanding due to replanting.” The correspondent also rejects the once widely-held belief that Atlantic Cod would be the big disaster of them all – that cod would be the first giant fishery to flip its ecosystem and never return regardless of what bans were imposed. “It’s true that it was massively overfished and collapsed leaving tens of thousands out of work and the stock in big trouble. Twenty years later, not only are the fish not extinct, or not being fished. People are now talking – not recovery – but ‘abundance’ again, already. “We have learned from the ’60s to

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’90s era and today most large fisheries are well managed (some in Asia/ Africa are not) and either recovering or operating at maximum economic yield. You cannot catch fish to extinction – they will always recover if you stop fishing. It’s the recovery time that is the issue – and the time to when you can recommence harvesting, sustainably. “Farm production has now overtaken wild catch in the world and we are learning how to replace the wild fish component in feeds with land based proteins – and still keep the marine nutrition (eg omega-3s) values.” These assertions can be verified, he adds, at some of the certification NGO websites – MSC, ASC, GlobalGAP, GAA. Finally, he writes: “I’ve just finished five days’ filming sea-cage aquaculture in Vietnam where they use underwater cameras to permanently monitor impacts on the surrounding waterways, as well as at control sites for 20 kms around. It’s a different world now.” Meanwhile, another writer claims that information on the issue of overfishing is as confusing as it is with regards to climate change. “You never know who or what to believe. Many of the so-called experts have vested interests and will always present their side at the expense of the other.”

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The Observer Interesting snippets of life in Bangkok, as witnessed by our team The increasing number of untoward incidents involving taxi drivers recently is being blamed on newly released criminals who apparently can rent a taxi with little or no background checking. Despite all the warnings on Youtube and by travel agencies, some tourists are still unaware of the trickery in which jet skis are deliberately set up to fall apart shortly after they take to the water. Tourists renting the skis are then confronted by the operators who demand outrageous sums to repair the machines. If the tourists object, they are threatened physically or the jet ski operators call the police, who are invariably and conveniently close at hand. The two groups observed, one Russian and another Chinese, both agreed to cough up exorbitant amounts to avoid police involvement. Most passenger automobiles and motorcycles are bought on a hire-purchase basis. When the car owner is unable to pay the car is repossessed. Reliable sources say the rate of repossession is climbing fast, almost certainly a result of buyers who took advantage of the government’s cut-price car scheme who later find themselves unable to pay the monthly installments. Look out for some real bargains at upcoming auctions.

Be careful when leaving your car at car washes and repair shops as there have been cases where the staff make copies of keys. An accomplice then follows the driver and steals the vehicle when an opportunity arises. One such gang was operating at a car wash at a major store on Rama 4 Road in Klong Toey until it was closed following complaints by motorists. The police determined that thefts were organized by car wash staff. An expat businessman who dozed off in a taxi after a night of fairly heavy drinking awoke as the vehicle came to a halt to discover that his bag and belongings, including a mobile, money and various cards, had all gone missing. At that moment, the car’s back door opened and standing not looking very friendly was the driver demanding his money. The fellow was absolutely certain that the bag had been in his possession as he entered the taxi – and no one else had been in it with him. The conclusion? Suitably intimidated by the driver, he had no choice but to nip indoors for the fare – convinced he knew who had whipped his belongings while asleep.

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News|Business

Game for a laugh How German expat Fabian Wiener plans to boost board gaming culture in Thailand

By Adam Purcell

■ IN a world obsessed with all things

digital – iPads, laptops, smartphones and the like – it’s no surprise that many people think the traditional board game is dead. When the opportunity to play games with people all around the world is just the click of a button away, what’s the point in spending time and effort actually getting friends and family around a table? “Board games will never die!” says gaming fanatic Fabian Weiner as he rolls two dice to kick start a session of The Settlers of Catan, a popular strategy game from Germany. “There’s something so magic about the experience – you learn, you compete, you socialise in the real world. iPads and digital games can not compete with that.” Fabian, 32, figuratively rolled the dice in the business world last year when, together with Dong, his brother from his former Thai host family, the duo established Ninive Games and began importing a Thai version of Catan, as it’s best known, to Thailand. “Catan is one of the world’s bestloved board games,” says Fabian. “To date it has sold over 18 million copies worldwide; it’s been mentioned on cult TV shows like The Big Bang Theory; and it’s available in 30 languages. The Washington Post even called it ‘The board game of our time.’ “Its focus on trading natural resources –

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stone, wheat, sheep, wood – make it unique and a great learning tool for kids. We knew we could make it a hit in Thailand.” Kosmos, the German publishers of Catan, granted Ninive Games the rights to import a Thai version of the game after Fabian met representatives of the company in Stuttgart, Germany. “They wanted to know that me and my brother were truly passionate about the game,” he says. “They wanted to know that we had the talent to make it a success. I guess they like what they saw because they agreed to produce a Thai version and that was that – we were officially bringing the game to Thailand.” Prior to establishing Ninive Games, Fabian, a fluent Thai speaker, was a lecturer at a Thai university. Not entirely happy with his job, he was delighted that, in running his own company, he’d finally be investing his time and energy into

something he is truly passionate about. “Let’s just say there’s a lot of politics involved in teaching here,” he says. “So it was great to finally be my own boss. Yes, a lot of hard work is involved – especially in Thailand where board game culture isn’t as big as Europe or the States – but it’s very rewarding, especially when you see a group of Thai kids playing the game and loving it.” To promote sales of Catan Fabian has travelled the kingdom visiting schools, youth organisations and shopping malls.”You wouldn’t believe how many times I’ve played this game over the past year,” he says with a laugh. “I can even tell you what cards I’m holding without having to look at them.” He holds up a Catan card, a picture of a sheep on it. “Wood,” he says. “Ah. Okay. I got that wrong...but at least I managed to get things right on the business front – Catan is now on sale in over 30 stores throughout Thailand, with many more to come.” To boost his cash flow while establishing the game in Thailand, Fabian has opened a small store on the corner of Rama IV and Sukhumvit roads (near Phra Khanong BTS Station), where board game enthusiasts young and old can drop in to play Catan (English and Thai versions) and other board games while enjoying drinks and food, including delicious pizzas cooked in a wood-fired oven. Fabian even offers delivery of the pizzas, priced B250 to B350, to local condominiums. “The idea is to establish a place where expats and Thais who enjoy board games can hang out and make new friends,” he says. “We’ve got a decent selection of games for people to play, including classics like Diplomacy and Carcassone, 7 Wonders, Tikal. “Of course, we hope everyone who visits would love to buy a game of Catan too,” he adds with a laugh. With three tables inside surrounded by Thai and foreign children playing Catan, another table outside where parents sit drinking beers and challenging each other at Gobblet Gobblers, a new strategic take on noughts and crosses, Fabian’s store proves there’s still life in the traditional board game. “You just have to disconnect to reconnect,” he says, pointing at an iPad. “The pleasure you have playing a real game with real people will be more than worth it.” Ninive Games is open daily 2pm-late. Catan is priced B1,750 (English); B1,600 (Thai). All board games are free to play. www.ninivegames.com www.facebook.com/ ninivegamestore

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Expat Entrepreneurs|Designer in focus

Designing a future in Bangkok Dutch design guru Casper Oplaat explains how he built a career in interior design in Thailand By Martine Olthof

■ WITH its haphazard wiring, buildings springing up in every

available space, and spaghetti-like roads confusing even the best GPS systems, Bangkok is to most observers an unplanned mess where chaos rules over order. In short, it’s not the kind of habitat you’d expect to appeal to an interior and product designer whose work revolves around clean lines and carefully considered structure. But it’s exactly this kind of heady environment that Dutch designer Casper Oplaat thrives on. No stranger to change and disorder, Casper became a global citizen at an early age. His parents worked worldwide for Philips and would move on average every three years, so he quickly learned to enjoy all the sensory pleasures that moving to a new culture affords. In the process he also became a polyglot, picking up German, English, Portuguese, French, Italian, Spanish and Thai – a talent which has allowed him to quickly take on board the design trends of every country he’s set foot in. For Casper, Google is a verb in no less than eight different languages: “Being able to tap into the design trends and traditions of different countries really does help me to be a better-rounded designer,” he says.

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Casper, who studied his Master of Business Administration degree at IESE Business School University of Navarra, Spain, made the move to Thailand in 2010, when his partner began working for advisory services company KPMG Bangkok. Prior to the move the couple had lived in Lagos, Nigeria, where Casper was involved in redesigning the Dutch Embassy. He also created his own cane furniture for the couple’s home – a concept that was soon copied en masse by the locals. Upon moving to Thailand Casper began studying Interior and Product Design at Accademia Italiana Bangkok where, among other tools of the trade, he learned technical drawing. During this time he was also approached by his first clients several expats all looking for cost effective ways of sprucing up their apartments. Since then, 45 year old Casper has created a unique bag for the Vespa scooter which fits behind the bike’s windscreen; has given the teakwood mansion at the Dutch Embassy a complete makeover (he also designed the concept for the embassy’s lavish garden party to celebrate the inauguration of the new Dutch King, Willem-Alexander); and has also built up a network of clients who he can work with from a distance thanks to a nifty 3D computer programme which simulates the different rooms in a house and calculates the space, allowing Casper to create his designs from any location. >>

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Expat Entrepreneurs|Designer in focus

Casper is now in the process setting up his own design consultancy business and hopes to establish a company that not only offers interior design, but which integrates design disciplines such as fashion, architecture, web, products, and more. The BigChilli recently met Casper to talk about his company and hear his thoughts about the future of design. Here’s what he had to say: What first attracted you to the world of design? I have always been curious why a product is the way it is, and whether or not it could be better in quality, use, look or materials. It’s the same with my surroundings I think it’s because my brain functions in an analyzing way. See, deconstruct and reconstruct. Where do you draw inspiration for your designs? Everywhere! Websites, books, magazines, fashion, TV, art, the

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street, traveling, people – everything that captures my attention for being different. I take a lot of pictures, scribble down notes, tear pages out of magazines, and when I look at everything later it all combines to create a base from which I can make a new design.

Is it difficult for a foreigner to establish themselves as a product/interior designer in Thailand? For the local market it is, yes. It’s not so easy to penetrate the higher circles because these are quite closed. On the other hand, this makes it easier to enter the expat market because there aren’t as many Thai designers aiming at this sector. What are the biggest challenges you have faced? Communication is definitely a challenge. Be it language, although I speak some Thai, or technical communication like drawings. Some of the painters or carpenters I have dealt with did not believe that a Farang could know technical details. But, given time, these problems are soon ironed out. Is the approach to design here ver y different to Europe? Absolutely. North-Central Europe’s 1930s Bauhaus mantra of ´form follows function´ is just the other way around in Asia! That’s why Asian designs in general are more ornate, colourful and many times more ´bling.’ Products and designs often get away with less-than perfect function here, as long as they look good. Take for instance, the back-lit staircases seen in many five-star hotels. These are hardly user friendly (it’s difficult to see where

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you’re putting your feet), but because the whole design is seen as spectacular, then this problem is regarded as just a minor blib. Does Bangkok offer designers a good environment in which to flourish? There is a lot gong on in construction and the middle class is growing so for the future it is promising. It would be nice if design would be integrated from the start of a project which so far is not always the case. On the product design level it is a little more difficult – copies from abroad or traditional designs are still preferred over new original ones, but there is improvement and a few designers are establishing themselves in the Asian and international market. Which designers have had the biggest influence on you? Designers such as Alvar Aalto, Rietveld, Bauhaus group, Armani, Bertone, Droog Design group, Vitra Designers, and of course New Thai Design at Siam Center Mall. Most inspiring place in Bangkok? Definitely the Chatuchak area. The market and its surroundings along Kamphang Phet Road where traditional, tourist, copied, furniture, fashion, food, and vintage products are peddled is a treasure trove of inspiration. The combination of products on offer combined with the buzz of all those different people is amazing. On every visit I always see something new. What projects are you working on at the moment? I am redesigning the residence of the New Zealand embassy and also working on several apartment projects, ranging from making a small apartment spacious by changing its floor plan and natural light flow, to modifying a large, and very luxurious condo unit so that it reflects more of the owner’s personality. What interior design trends are popular at the moment, and how do you see things evolving through 2014 and beyond? After the Black, white and taupe interior trend, more and more colour is becoming a design factor. Not like the seventies use of colours, but more as a support of a simple colour palette – think one basic colour in different shades, solid colors and patterns in the same series based on a white interior. Finally, what can you see yourself doing/creating in five years’ time? I really would like to see more integrated design concepts and work in teams to create everything from house interiors and apps to kitchen appliances and fashion. It’s happening with some brands already – Armani into home and architecture, Mini into kitchen appliances, Porsche into clothing and apparel. It’s still all very brand based but I’m sure it will move to a more individual style, and I would love to be a part of that. For more info and examples of Casper’s work see dbcnconsulting.com

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Business|RSM

RSM World Day a big hit in Bangkok It was smiles all round when RSM Thailand visited the Human Development Charitable Foundation armed with cakes, toys, clothes, and games – and a cheque for 100,000 baht ■ RSM Thailand hosted an RSM WORLD

DAY CHARITY EVENT at the Human Development Charitable Foundation at the Mercy Centre on Thursday 12 September 2013 for the slum kids of Klongtoey. The “RSM World Day” initiative was commenced by RSM International out of its London Head Office last year, whereby each office in the 102 countries that RSM network firms operate from was entrusted to put on an event or activity to benefit their individual communities. Such was the success of this activity that RSMi were recognized with an Editor’s Special Award at the International Accounting Bulletin Awards ceremony held in London on 14 March 2013. RSM Thailand staff visited the slum kids at the Mercy Centre and donated 100,000 Baht for their education and other needs. In addition, RSM staff members and friends donated clothes, toys, games, books, electronic equipment,

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Gareth Hughes explained to the kids what the RSM World Day signifies before presenting a 5kg RSM Thailand World Day Cake to them. The cake was then shared with a further 250 slum kids attending classes at the Human Development Foundation and who were not present to meet and greet the RSM staff. Father Joe Maier stated that this was a fantastic occasion for the kids of the Mercy Center, who were mainly around the ages of five and six, and that other RSM offices globally would be envious of what the RSM Thailand Office had achieved.

Histor y of RSM Thailand RSM Thailand is a member of RSM International the world’s seventh largest worldwide network of independent accounting, business advisory and consulting firms driven by a common vision of providing high quality professional services. RSM Thailand has existed in Bangkok since April 2001 and has 100 staff in its Bangkok Sathorn based office. www.rsmthailand.com

stationery and food supplies. There were 70 slum kids present (10 of whom are orphans and 10 of whom are infected with the HIV aids virus). The staff of RSM Thailand each introduced themselves and in return the kids, led by their teachers and Khun Prawina Sompong, sang a number of Thai songs including nursery rhymes to RSM.

Top left picture shows (from left): Khun Vanida Traitodsaporn – Associate Audit Director; Mike Holloway – Recruitment Director; Khun Prawina Sompong – Human Development Foundation; Father Joseph Maier, Director – Human Development Foundation; Gareth Hughes, Managing Director of RSM Thailand; Khun Panida Chookul – Audit Manager; Khun Pardorn Suchiva – Legal Director.

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Insight

Property|Promotion

All images are for advertisement purposes only.

Property

S’Cape ‒ “Life on the Horizon”

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Own your own slice of paradise in the north of Koh Samui

IF, like many people, you’ve ever dreamed of owning a luxury home away from home in a tropical island paradise, the new S’Cape Resort Condominium in Koh Samui could help you make those dreams come true. Located on a peninsula known as “Plai Laem” on the north of the island, this 2.8 acre hillside is one of the most sought-after locations in Samui. Chaweng, Choeng Mon, and BangRak beaches are just a short drive away, and just across the bay is Bo Phut, a wonderful fishing village boasting a plethora of boutique shops and beachfront restaurants. The project comprises 76 exclusive

freehold condominiums divided between one bedroom (starts at 75sq.m) and two bedroom (starts at 137sq.m) units, as well as a penthouse (301sq.m) and duplex penthouse (332sq.m). One and two-bedroom units feature impressive Jacuzzi balconies and the super luxurious penthouses have private pools. All units overlook picturesque views and the sunsets are simply stunning. Facilities at the project include fully equipped fitness centre; S’Café; Day lounge; a large secluded swimming pool; direct beach access; and much more. Samui International Airport is also just a short drive away.

99/9 Moo 5 Plai Laem Soi 7, Bo Phut, Koh Samui

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S’Cape Resort Condominium is well under way with over 90% of its structural work already completed presale. This establishes and differentiates S’Cape from other developments on Koh Samui by allowing potential buyers to see the finished product before they make a purchase (interested parties can visit almost-complete units to select from). Phase one of S’Cape Resort Condominium is scheduled to be complete by the end of this year, while the entire project has an expected completion date of Q1 2014. Samui Sands Co., Ltd, the owner and developer of the project, can be contacted using the details below.

☎ 077 430 327 H 090 965 6414 * info@s-capesamui.com :s-capesamui.com

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Insight

Business|Marketing

Identifying your company’s brand ambassadors PR Consultant Kittima Sethi explains how brand ambassadors – celebrities, employees or customers – can be instrumental in adding value to your business ■ IF you feel you are always seeing the

same face of a certain model or presenter on billboards, BTS train wraps, TV ads and posters plastered around town, you are probably not wrong. In Thailand, it is not uncommon for the same person to be featured as a presenter for several products at the same time, or even in competing products! Welcome to Thailand’s brand ambassadors’ bandwagon, where companies are constantly on surveillance, keeping vigilance on not just the next big Thai actor or actresses, but even celebrities or winners of the next reality game show or talent competition who could potentially endorse their products or services. Brand ambassadors are employed by companies to increase brand awareness and to strengthen the customer/product relationship to increase consumption and sales. Because brand ambassadors act as the company’s spokesperson, they play an important and proactive role in adding value to the business. This is why identifying the most suitable brand ambassador is crucial for companies. Brand ambassadors must have a thorough understanding and knowledge of the product and brand so that they are able to answer any queries from media or consumers. They must appeal to the brand and the product’s target audience. Most importantly, they must be passionate about the brand or else they will appear to be inauthentic. Psychology plays an important factor in the relationship between a brand ambassador and the product or service he or she is representing. From the consumer’s perspective, the brand ambassador must be emotionally engaging, convincing and motivating. International watchmaker Omega selects ambassadors that embody their values, which is: unparalleled class, bold style and elegant performance. Some of the ambassadors include star athletes,

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award-winning actors and successful entrepreneurs such as actors George Clooney, Nicole Kidman and swimmer Michael Phelps. Nike is known for focusing on the greatness of the athletes who they appoint as brand ambassadors and in building their image to sell products. Take NBA player Michael Jordan, (MJ) for instance. After appointing MJ as its brand ambassador, Nike created a series of ‘Air Jordan’ basketball shoes which remain a hit today. In Thailand, Thais are fascinated and obsessed with TV soap stars and celebrities, who are poached to become brand ambassadors of multiple products. This brings to mind the question of how authentic and passionate they are about the products they represent. Take Thai superstar Artiwara “Toon” Kongmalai of the band Bodyslam. He was recently appointed as a presenter for Pepsi. Prior to that, he appeared in a TV commercial for the M-150 energy drink. Early this year, he was also selected to represent Dutchmill, a milk producer, which surprised many reporters, considering his rock and roll personality.

Most Thais tend to show loyalty to a brand and product based on their attraction to the brand ambassador. Unilever Thai Group of Companies earlier this year reported that their Walls’ Magnum ice cream enjoyed a 400% increase in sales. Actor Ananda Everingham and other celebrities acted as their brand ambassador. Coca-Cola Thailand recently announced the launch of its first herbal drink, Habu, in Thailand, introducing popular comedian Charoenporn ‘Kohtee’ Onlamai and actor Tanawat ‘Pope’ Wattanaputi as their two brand ambassadors. Instead of approaching A-list stars, a company’s owner or top management can also act as a brand ambassador. Having a celebrity status helps. If not, companies can begin to identify a spokesperson within their company and groom them by providing them with media training and PR opportunities. Having an interesting and exciting story to share is certainly an added value. Sir Richard Branson of Virgin Group, Air Asia CEO Tony Fernandes, Pepsico’s CEO Indra Nooyi, and Thailand’s Ichitan green tea founder Tan Passakornnatee are some examples. Employees and customers can also

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be your brand ambassadors in the form of brand evangelist. Employees who are happy at work and treated fairly can be a company’s most valuable presenters. It is important for companies to effectively communicate their brand values to their employees and keep them engaged. Employees can humanize a company and project an image you would like to be communicated to the outside world. If they have a blog or are active on social media, they are more likely to share their experience. According to the 2012 World’s Best Multinational Workplaces published by Great Place to Work, the top 5 companies in their list of 25 included the IT Company SAS Institute, Google, Neap, Kimberly-Clark and Microsoft. Employees from over 5,700 companies around the world participated in this employee survey.

Likewise, if customers are impressed with your products or services, they are more likely to share their experience with friends both online and offline. Such testimonials are powerful and priceless. This is a great way to gain publicity and promote a positive image to your target audience. Even a tweet by a satisfied customer can have an incredible and magnifying effect. Did you know that the Coke Facebook fanpage was not created by Coca-Cola, but by two Coke fans from Los Angeles in 2008? While brand ambassadors are a great way to raise profile and add credibility to your brand and company, keep in mind that the key lies in selecting someone who embodies your brand and who can communicate effectively to your target audience. Do your research to ensure there is synergy between your selected brand ambassador and product. Be mindful when selecting a brand ambassador from a star who is an “overnight success” unless you are confident of that person. Remember to also acknowledge your employees and customers. If you can make them fall in love with your company, you have succeeded in connecting with them and they can become your brand ambassador for life. Kittima Sethi is a PR Consultant with Brand Now Co. Ltd., and when she is not busy searching high and low for a brand ambassador for her clients, she can be contacted at Kittima@brandnow.asia

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Insight

Interview|Prateep Unsongtham Hata

The fight goes on for Bangkok’s ‘Angel of the slums’

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Despite the international awards and celebrity status, Prateep Unsongtham Hata continues a lifelong battle to improve the lives of her fellow residents in Klong Toey By Maxmilian Wechsler

SHE is one of Thailand’s most recognized personalities, but unlike the vast majority of ‘celebs,’ it’s not because of her involvement in movies, music or even politics. Prateep Ungsongtham Hata has earned widespread recognition and awards through her work to help poor people in Bangkok’s sprawling Klong Toey community where she was born and has lived all her life. The former senator for Bangkok is the secretary-general of the Duang Prateep Foundation (DPF), which she founded in 1978. Living and working as she does in the Klong Toey slum, Mrs Prateep has seen much more than her share of the hard side of life, but when she speaks about her work, politics, Thailand or any other subject, she is full of energy and optimism. There’s something very special about her, and her nickname of “Slum Angel” seems most appropriate. Even people who disagree with her political views and affiliations tend to genuinely respect her for her achievements and hard work for the poor. I first met Mrs Prateep many years ago, and since that time there has been no change in her spirit, attitude or behavior. Through her foundation Mrs Prateep has helped thousands of underprivileged people, especially children, and for that she has received praise and awards from governments and international organizations. In Thailand she is immensely popular and somewhat of a celebrity, not only in Klong Toey but throughout Bangkok and also up-country. A walk through a Bangkok shopping mall invariably attracts considerable attention, with people asking friendly questions or wishing her well. Parents tell their children to say “sawadee” or to wai her. It’s an incredible reception for someone who’s not in the entertainment business. Far from it: her mission is very serious, but she approaches it with grace and good humor.

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Early life Mrs Prateep was born and raised in Klong Toey. As a youngster, she took on all kinds of jobs to help her family financially, including chipping rust from the sides of ships in the port and selling sweets. Early on she became devoted to helping her neighbours in Klong Toey with their difficulties, and in 1976, at the age of 24, she established the DPF as a formal instrument for improving the community. The foundation runs many projects in the areas of education, child abuse, HIV/Aids, and welfare of the elderly and youths living in the slum. Her good work caught the attention of people worldwide. In 1978, Mrs Prateep won the Ramon Magsaysay Award for Public Service. Two years later she received the John D. Rockefeller Youth Award for Outstanding Contribution to Mankind. With the prize money she established the Foundation for Slum Child Care. In 2004 she received the World’s Children’s Prize for the Rights of the Child and the Global Friends’ Award. In 2000 she was elected to the Thai Senate representing Bangkok and served on several government committees, but lost her seat following the military coup in September 2006. Over the years many foreigners have volunteered to work at the foundation, including the man who was to become Mrs Prateep’s husband, Professor Dr Tatsuya Hata, who is a full-time lecturer at Kinki University in Osaka. He came to Thailand in the early 1970s with a group of volunteers to help Cambodian refugees along the Thai-Cambodian border. After visiting Mrs Prateep in Klong Toey, they fell in love and married in 1987. The wedding received a lot of media attention in Thailand and Japan. The couple has two sons.

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Klong Toey slum

the walkways were made of wood, but now they are almost all concrete. Before, we didn’t have an adequate water supply and there weren’t enough electricity connections, but now we have plenty of running water and electricity is supplied everywhere. The slum residents have also changed; now there are many who came from neighboring countries like Myanmar and Cambodia.” Mrs Prateep noted that the land on which Klong Toey slum is located belongs to the PAT, but noted: “They can’t evict the 100,000 people living here.” Despite the vast number of inhabitants, the Klong Toey community lacks the air of danger that fills the slums of Manila, Rio de Janeiro and other mega cities. Generally, outsiders are easily accepted – provided they don’t take photos of the residents. “People might be surprised to learn how little crime there is here,” said Mrs Prateep. “Usually it involves minor offences like stealing laundry from washing lines, especially jeans, mostly by drug addicts. The lines are strung high up so the thieves can’t reach them easily. “We don’t have big mafia here, only small crooks. You can see some people with tattoos all over their bodies. They look scary but are actually harmless. They are not dangerous or cruel and we can communicate with them.” She does not deny there is a problem with illegal drugs and addiction in Klong Toey, but says: “Only small quantities of drugs like ya ba (methamphetamine) pills, ‘ice’ (crystal methamphetamine) or marijuana are available here. The police will usually make the big busts of narcotics outside the slum – maybe one or two million ya ba pills outside the slum compared to just 1,000 or 2,000 pills seized inside the slum. This is a big difference.” Mrs Prateep said that in all the years she has been in Klong Toey, only the government of former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra (2002-2006) was able to really make a dent in the

“Despite the vast number of inhabitants, the Klong Toey community lacks the air of danger that fills the slums of Manila, Rio de Janeiro and other mega cities.”

Klong Toey slum covers an area of about two square kilometers and is home to an estimated 100,000 people, according to Mrs Prateep. It is the biggest and one of the oldest slums in Thailand. The National Housing Authority reported a few years ago there are about 5,500 slum communities throughout the country. Klong Toey slum dates back to the early 1950s when impoverished rural migrants, mainly from the Northeast, came to Bangkok looking for a better life. Some of them were employed by the Port Authority of Thailand (PAT) on construction projects at the Bangkok port. They formed a makeshift community and after the work was completed many of them decided to stay. “The immigrants could find work on a daily basis in the port, loading and unloading ships or at one of four nearby oil refineries Bangchak, Caltex, PTT and Shell. They could also find work at Klong Toey market, where farmers from more than 30 provinces bring their produce, or in constructions, in small factories or as street vendors,” explained Mrs Prateep. Numerous improvements have been made in the basic infrastructure of the Klong Toey slum over the years. “Before,

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Insight

Interview|Prateep Unsongtham Hata Duang Prateep Foundation

Mrs Prateep’s foundation is currently involved in several projects, sponsoring education, kindergartens, HIV/ Aids treatment, credit union and assistance for the old and young. Details about these projects and other information are on the DPF website: www.dpf.or.th. The website is in four languages – Thai, English Japanese and German. “We also have a number of training programs. For example, we train people in fire protection and also on how to make playgrounds for the slum kids. We train young people who aren’t going to school in various skills so they can become more valuable in the job market and make better money. “Before there were many fires in drug trade. “When he was prime Statistics on Numbers of Drug Cases the Klong Toey slum but now there minister, drugs, addicts, pushers and Offenders throughout the Country aren’t many. One reason is that we and drug mafia almost disappeared train young people and also women from Klong Toey slum, and it was During 1999 – 2011* on what to do when a fire occurs and reduced drastically throughout Thaihow to prevent it from spreading. land as well. This is a fact. Official Numbers of Numbers of “We have some small fire trucks in Year statistics from the Office of the Cases Offenders the slum. The operators are volunNarcotic Control Board clearly show teers. In fact, within few days we will the trend then and now (see box). 1999 206,170 223,294 receive another small fire truck with “Especially during 2004 and 2000 222,614 238,380 hoses and other equipment to combat 2005, the price of ya ba skyrocketed, fires in this crowded environment. 2001 207,447 220,525 to over 300 baht per pill. It was very Big trucks can’t enter many areas in 2002 208,817 220,106 difficult to find any drugs at all here, the slum. so the number of addicts plum2003 102 334 102,334 108 315 108,315 “As for water supply when a fire ocmeted. Sadly, following the 2006 2004 55,423 60,669 curs, we don’t have hydrants like you military coup, ya ba came back, see on the streets of Bangkok, but we 2005 71,539 78,508 the price dropped, other types of have a supply of dirty water that can 2006 82,864 90,845 drugs appeared and the number of be used to combat fire. We are always addicts increased. Since then there 2007 106,599 116,333 prepared for emergency situations has been a small improvement here 2008 140,567 152,184 such as fires.” and throughout the country, but the 2009 155,013 168,083 Mrs Prateep said that the Bangkok situation remains serious. Just look Metropolitan Administration is very 172 025 186 266 2010 172,025 186,266 at the news now on the number of active in Klong Toey to prevent disbig drug busts,” Mrs Prateep said. 2011 208,174 222,049 ease carried by mosquitoes. “We have “It wasn’t only the illegal drugs that very few dengue fever cases here, and the Thaksin government reduced, but also the sale of cigarettes no malaria. We are running a program to deal with Aids issues. and alcohol to minors,” she added. The number of infected people is not as high as it was in the late “We don’t see as many policemen as in the past patrolling 1990s,” she said. inside Klong Toey slum, because during the past six years they have been assigned to maintain security for demonstrations Highlights and disappointments instead of combating crime. There used to be many motorcycle patrols around here, but now there are very few.” Asked about her biggest achievements and biggest disappoint Changing the subject, Mrs Prateep went on: “We have ments, Mrs Prateep replied: “In the past we didn’t have schools Westerners living in the slum. Some work for different religious in the slum. In the beginning, I opened an illegal school. It took organizations. They rent a small room or house to enable them 10 years before it was accepted by the government. I am very to be close to their followers. They organize various activities proud of this. Also, I am happy that now water and electricity are according to their faith and so on. There are also some homeless available to slum dwellers. Of course, I didn’t do it all by myself, foreigners living in the slum, but not so many. Most of them live but with help and support from many people. on the sidewalks.” 26

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“We can certainly improve the education system for poor children in the slum, she added. There are many children born in this and other slums in Bangkok who don’t have birth certificates and so aren’t able to access the education system. Those children should also have a chance to go to school and receive a proper education. The mothers often don’t have birth certificates or house registration numbers themselves, and many children don’t have birth certificates because they weren’t born in a hospital. The mothers may not be able to afford it. Sometimes this is difficult for the Thai authorities to understand.” An unforgettable experience, said Mrs Prateep, was meeting with the Dalai Lama in Japan seven years ago. “We were both attending a seminar and staying in the same area, and I had a chance to speak with him. “As for disappointments, I have had many, but the biggest is that Thailand still has not achieved real democracy. Therefore, there are many problems that can’t be solved in the long term. When we achieve something, as in the drug prevention and suppression I mentioned before, things return to the way they were under another administration.”

The recent Prateep Ungsongtham Hata Award 2013 Presentation Ceremony, where Pol. Lt. Col. Somkiet Simakoop was recognised for his effective drug eradication programmes

What about her venture into politics? “In 2000 I was elected to the Senate. I lost the position following the military coup in September 2006. You asked me if I am going to run for a Senate seat in the next elections due next year. I don’t think so because it will be a waste of time. There’s only a slim chance to win a seat because of the current Constitution. The whole of Bangkok has only one seat to be chosen by the electorate, so it would be very difficult.” According to the Constitution of Thailand drafted by the military-led interim government in 2007, the Senate is composed of 150 senators, with one directly elected from each of the 76 Thai provinces and the remaining 74 appointed by seven member Senate Selection Committees. At any rate, said Mrs Prateep, she has plenty of work to do. “I will continue to hold the position of chairman of the foundation until I am 65 years old, in line with the foundation regulations. Afterward, I can be an adviser. As for our funding, it is always a struggle,” she said without elaborating. “I don’t think the Klong Toey slum will be here forever. The current government has designated an area to build housing for the slum people. If they are satisfied with the new accommodation, they will be free to move there.”

Prateep Ungsongtham Hata in focus • 1952: Born on August 9 in Klong Toey slum • 1959: Began four years of primary education, at the same time working as a vendor to help with school fees • 1963: Left school to work at a firecracker factory in Klong Toey, chipped rust off ships at the Bangkok Port, and saved money from wages to continue education in evening classes • 1968: Opened an informal school in the slum, continuing her studies at the same time • 1970: Awarded a place at Suan Dusit Teacher’s college • 1976: The Port Authority of Thailand (PAT) posted eviction notices on her home community and her school. Mrs Prateep pushed for a compromise solution and the PAT made a new site available one kilometer away. The government finally recognized her school, called Pattana Village School. Mrs Prateep was appointed principal and the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration took over management • 1978: Received the Magsaysay Award for Public Service. She used the prize money to establish Duang Prateep Foundation, and became its Secretary-General • 1979: Named outstanding teacher of the year by the Department of Education • 1980: Left full-time teaching in order to head the Duang Prateep Foundation. Became the first Asian citizen to receive the John D. Rockfeller Youth Award for Outstanding Contribution to Mankind. With the prize money she established the Foundation for Slum Child Care • 1982: Received a Bachelor’s degree in education from Ban Simdej Chaopraya Teachers college. • 1983: The PAT sought to relocate the “Pattana Village Community.” Mrs Prateep persuaded them to enter a land sharing agreement with the slum community and the National Housing Authority (NHA). In August 1985 the entire Pattana Village Community (more than 3,000 people), the school, and the Foundation headquarters moved to a new site • 1987: Married Dr. Tatsuya Hata PhD, Director of Japan Sotoshu Relief Committee • 1989: Appointed adviser on urban policy to the Prime Minister. Awarded an Honorary Masters Degree by Ramkhamhaeng University, Bangkok • 1992: Became a committee member of the Confederation for Democracy and one of the leaders of the opposition to the military dictatorship of the time • 1993: Appointed to the Parliamentary Advisory Committee on Education for the poor • 2000: Won a seat in Thailand’s first elected Senate • 2004: Received the World’s Children’s Prize and the Global Friend’s Award from Queen Silvia of Sweden • 2005: Received Master’s Degree in Political Science, Sukothai Thammathirat Open University • 2007: Honored on U.N International Women’s Day as an Outstanding Woman in Buddhism by an international committee of scholars and Buddhist clergy. Became chairperson of the Confederation for Democracy • 2010: One of 13 recipients of the World’s Children’s Prize for the Rights of the Child • 2010: Received “The Golden Scale Award” as an outstanding person on welfare action from the Corrections Center, Ministry of Justice • 2011: Received the “Heart of Giver” Tara Award • Present: Mrs Pateep remains as Founder/ Secretary General of Duang Prateep Foundation, Founder/ Committee Member of the Foundation for Slum Child Care, and President of Thai Women’s Empowerment Fund *Source: Office of the Narcotic Control Board

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CONGRATULATES

Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Boutique Hotel on its

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ANNIVERSARY!

Bourbon St. has advertised in every single issue of The BigChilli since the magazine ďŹ rst launched in 1999

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Gourmet p Wine and restaurant news

Sample innovative dishes at Fifty Five Restaurant when Chef Norbert Niederkofler comes to town. See page 30.

What’s Cooking A round up of this month’s best gourmet deals. Yummy! Page 30

Meet the chef Anurak Khoononyang of Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside Page 36

Our favourite restaurants reviewed and listed Page 46 TheBigChilli

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Gourmet

Dining|News

What’s Cooking

Bangkok’s hottest dining deals and news

Dining for a good cause

ALL THIS MONTH AT THE BLUE ELEPHANT RESTAURANT

■ THE Blue Elephant Restaurant is raising funds for the Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer (QSCBC) this month by serving a highly-nutritious, six-course ‘Pink Ribbon’ menu featuring innovative dishes such as Clear beef consommé of tenderloin beef, sweet potatoes flavored with Thai holy basil and sweet basil; and Rambutan stuffed with minced free-range Chicken and organic prawns, Ivy gourd and Soursop leaves. B1,980++ per person (available for lunch and dinner). All proceeds raised from the sale of the menu will be donated to QSCBC.

Exclusive Italian wine dinner NOV 6 AT CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD

■ CHEF Norbert Niederkofler of the two Mi-

chelin Starred Restaurant St Hubertus in Italy is set to cook up his signature dishes in an exclusive wine dinner at Fifty Five Restaurant. Sample exquisite creations such as Ravioli with liquid goat cheese, eel and pine wafers, each dish paired with one of the finest wines from Cantina Terlan. B7,555++ per person. 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. ☎ 02 100 6255 :diningcgcw@chr.co.th

Indian Brunch at Maya

EVERY SUNDAY AT HOLIDAY INN BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT 22

■ FOR Sunday brunch with an Indian twist, head to this new trendy establishment and you’ll find plenty of spicy treats to choose from, including Peshawari spice filled Malai Paneer; Spiced potato and sago pearl patties with mustard seed; Boneless chicken marinated in Kashmiri chillies, mustard oil and fenugreek, and much more. B700++ per person for adults; B350++ per person for kids under 12 years old. Add B400++ for freeflow drinks. 1 Sukhumvit Soi 22 02 683 4888 :mayathailand.com

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233 South Sathorn Rd. 02 673 9353 :blueelephant.com/bangkok

New menu for Leapfrog

AVAILABLE NOW AT GALLERIA 10 BANGKOK

■ LEAPFROG rooftop bar and grill has introduced a delicious new menu featuring an exciting mix of international cuisine and grilled and tapas-like specialties. To celebrate the launch of the menu, and mark Halloween, the restaurant is offering a ‘Pumpkin Patch’ set dinner menu (available Oct 1-31) featuring three courses of all things pumpkin for B590. The pumpkin stuffed Lasagna is great. 21 Sukhumvit Soi 10 ☎ 02 615 0999 :galleriatenbangkok.com

Gourmet Japan Festival OCT 8-16 AT THE CONRAD BANGKOK

■ EXPERIENCE Tappanyaki food at its finest when visiting Master Chef Masami Inoue comes to town to take control of the kitchens for an eight day stint at KiSara Japanese Restaurant. Among the menu highlights: Asian herb infused foie gras mousse; Teppanyaki Kobe beef sirloin with red wine and green pepper sauce; and Teppanyaki king crab and mushrooms with crab sauce. Spend B5,000 or more for a chance to win a one night’s stay, spa treatment vouchers, and more. 87 Wireless Rd. ☎ 02 690 9999 :conradhotels.com

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Gourmet

Dining|News

Michelin tastes at Elements

Oktoberfest specials

OCT 15-19 AT THE OKURA BANGKOK

VARIOUS DATES AND VENUES

■ CHEF Thomas Kammeier from the

one Michelin Star Hugos restaurant in Berlin will take control of the kitchens at Elements Restaurant this month to cook up a four-course lunch menu (B2,200++) and six-course dinner menu (B4,500++). Expect to sample dishes such as Goose foie gras with a Pattaya mango sorbet and braised Wagyu beef ‘teppan-yaki cut’ served with celeriac and Périgord truffles; and European seabass prepared in his unique signature style. Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Road ☎ 02 687 9000 :okurabangkok.com

A night of Cheese and Wine OCT 18 AT ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON HOTEL & TOWERS

■ AS an extension of its global signature wine program, Sheraton Social Hour, the hotel now offers a Cheese and Wine evening the third Friday of each month at Sambal Bar & Grill. From 6.30pm-8.30pm enjoy gourmet cheeses alongside fine Italian wines such as La Gioiosa Merlot Delle Venezie DOC and La Gioiosa Pinot Grigio Vento. B599++ per person. 2 Charoenkrung Soi 30 ☎ 02 266 9214 :royalorchidsheraton.com

Caviar specials at L’Appart OCT 13-19 AT SOFITEL BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT

■ FOR one week only, L’Appart is offering a special ‘Caviar and Vodka’ menu and a ‘Caviar and Champagne’ menu, priced B3,499 and B4,999 respectively. Designed in the style of a luxury Parisian apartment, L’Appart is a great venue for any occasion.

189 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 13-15 02 126 9999 :sofitel.com/gb/hotel-5213-sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit/index.shtml

Halloween Treats

OCT 31 AT NOVOTEL BANGKOK ON SIAM SQUARE

■ EXPECT lots of spooky fun on offer at The Square Restaurant’s Halloween-themed buffet, which will offer special dishes like Monster salad, Traditional pumpkin soup, Pan-fried salmon on Bloody Mary Sauce, and more monster-inspired goodies for B1,050++ per person. 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 02 209 8888 ext. The SQUARE :novotelbkk.com

Tasty Thai buffet

DAILY AT PATHUMWAN PRINCESS HOTEL BANGKOK

■ FOR a Thai buffet at great value, Citi Bistro is well worth a look. Every night the dinner spread includes a wide range of delicious options plus dishes cooked fresh to order. Simply select your favourite meats, seafood and veggies, and the chefs will cook up whatever you desire. B950 per person. 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Rd. 02 216 3700 :pprincess.com

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■ JOIN Germans the world over in celebrating Munich’s annual Oktoberfest festival by heading to enjoy the following promotions: • Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside: Head to the Terrace@72 to tuck into German beers and traditional favourites like pork knuckle, available each day as part of the restaurant’s international lunch and dinner buffets. www. ramadaplazamenamriverside.com • Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok: All this month the hotel’s lobby bar will serve a variety of German Beers, Bretzels and Bratwurst, plus special prices on Weihenstephan (an original, dark and special Oktoberfest brew) from 7pm-1am. rembrandt.warwickhotels.com • The Grand Fourwings Convention Hotel Bangkok, Srinakarin: Grand Café has put together a special Bavarian menu this month featuring more than 10 kinds of German foods, including Crispy German pork knuckle, German sausages, and Delicacy Munich ham. • Novotel Bangkok Bangna: Head to the hotel’s Kinnary Poolside on Friday nights to enjoy a ‘Beer Garden’ atmosphere featuring free-flow Oktoberfest beer and freshly Grilled roasted pork knuckle, salad and a selection of meals. B690 per person. Go 4 pay 3.

Italian feasts

AVAILABLE NOW AT THE CONTINENT HOTEL

■ DUE to the popularity of its superb lunch buffet, the elegant Medinii Italian Restaurant now offers a dinner buffet every Sun-Thurs at B799++; and Fri-Sat at B999++ (6.30pm-10.30pm). The generous spread features a wide range of seafood and meat dishes (including some mouthwatering Wagyu beef) as well as a good selection of desserts. 413 Sukhumvit Road (near Asoke BTS and Sukhumvit MRT stations) 02 686 7059 :thecontinenthotel.com

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Gourmet

Dining|Insight

T

THERE is, as you can imagine, a rather good reason why Steven Craig decided to call his recently opened shop on Soi Ekamai ‘The Accidental Butcher.’ And yes, it’s all because he got into his profession by accident rather than by choice. “It happened 30 years ago,” recalls Steve, who was born and raised in Canberra, Australia. “At that time, the guy over the back fence had a double degree while my older brother was a car upholsterer, and neither could find a job. It was a bit ironic really – two blokes, one over-educated and the other undereducated, both unemployed. “Actually I wanted to become an architect, but this was obviously going to be difficult, so when I was approached out of the blue about becoming a butcher’s apprentice, I jumped at the chance.” Steve stayed with the trade for four years before switching careers at the age of 20 to work in the construction industry. After “making loads of money and spending loads,” he headed off to New Zealand to trace his Maori roots. It wasn’t a particularly happy experience. With help from his Maori grandmother, he discovered family ties dating back 870 years and celebrated that remarkable lineage by having a traditional tattoo known as a Ta Moko, which includes details of a person’s ancestry and place of birth. Overall, though, his quest was not the enlightening return to his ancestral

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Butcher ‘by accident’ takes on Bangkok

Three decades after becoming a butcher’s apprentice, Aussie Steve Craig is putting his extensive experience into a shop and independent supplier called The Accidental Butcher that offers customers quality meats from Tasmania and Thailand By Colin Hastings

homeland he had expected. “In fact, it was bloody depressing, learning how the Maoris signed a document effectively giving away their rights to their own land.” Rather than returning to Canberra, in 1992 Steve flew to Singapore where he resumed his career in butchery and other fresh foods. Over the next sixteen years, he worked for a number of leading supermarkets like Carrefour and Cold Storage, as well as meat and seafood supplier Indoguna, and an Australian government initiative aimed at boosting food exports to Singapore. In 2008, he was lured to Thailand by Siam Food Services, one of this country’s biggest food suppliers. His all-round industry experience was ideal for the burgeoning food business here. After three hectic years, Steve was transferred into the parent company, Siam Makro PLC, the giant cash-and-carry company. By now, he was married to a Thai lady, Khun Rudee, and the couple had two children. It was time for a break from the corporate world and a business of his own. So in August 2012, he left Siam Makro and less than a year later, The Accidental Butcher was launched.

He was motivated by what he saw as a clear opening in the local meat market – an independent butcher and charcuterie offering quality products, good service and personal knowledge that he wants to pass on to his customers. Some 70% of Steve’s meat products – including Angus and Wagyu beef and lamb – come from Tasmania, Australia, while pork and poultry are bought locally from established suppliers such as S-pure. Thai meats are used in the shop’s sausages and bacon, which Steve makes himself. Currently, most of his walk-in customers are expatriates, but Steve thinks The Accidental Butcher’s highend products will eventually appeal to the local market, especially as the shop is located in the heart of one of Bangkok’s most affluent residential areas. Other customers include several of Bangkok’s best known French and Italian restaurants. Steve expects this sector to grow rapidly. But he’s not actively chasing the hotel industry, at least for now. “Suppliers have to bid every month, which means you have to have large and expensive stocks in case you get the business. If you don’t, then you’re stuck with that stock. It’s a pain. “Then there are the payments terms demanded by the hotels, which work against small suppliers like me who can’t afford to wait months to be paid. “It’s not like this in Singapore, where you get your money after 30 days, on the dot.” Despite the many hurdles independent suppliers like Steve face, he’s confident that The Accidental Butcher will prove a success. “Quality always sells, eventually,” he says. The Accidental Butcher. 53 Soi Charoenmitr, Sukhumvit 63, Bangkok. 089 923 2253

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Gourmet

Chef in focus|Chef Anurak Khoononyang

• We offer a wide variety

SERVING UP

The best experience of dining options, focusing of my career so far was on both local and internaworking alongside a threeChef Anurak Khoononyang tional flavours. Our buffets star Michelin Chef for the feature Western, Japanese, opening of a renowned Chinese, Indian and Thai French restaurant in Bangdishes, with roast and kok. I learned so much in carving stations, monthly that short time and will highlights featuring a la minalways be grateful to have ute cooking, and impressive been given that incredible salad and homemade desopportunity. sert spreads. Our a la carte selection offers a range of the traditional and the modern, My all-time favorite ingredient has to be extra virgin local and international favourites to suit every palate. olive oil. I lavishly use for most of my cooking as it wonderfully elevates the flavours. I am currently working on redeveloping and implementing specialized training for my team My cookbook bible has to be Chef Ian Kittiwhere they will be regularly exposed to a wider chai’s ‘Kitchen Revealed.’ His recipes are simple range of products and ingredients obtained yet very modern in style and techniques. locally and internationally. I am happy to say that the training progress so far has been evident in Fusion food can be wonderfully surprising. our restaurants as the kitchen brigade’s training Roasted Thai eggplant salad with ripe mango, in these areas also include advance introduction shrimps and green onions served with foie to product knowledge, food handling, style of gras terrine, sounds like it shouldn’t work, cooking and presentation techniques. but it’s absolutely delicious!

Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside’s Executive Chef on fusion food, culinary trends, and the hotel’s culinary highlights •

• My signature dish is Braised lamb shank in

massaman curry with potatoes and shallots cooked in Thai style. Very well received, this dish combines local and international ingredients to delicious effect.

• In conjunction with the Oktoberfest celebrations, this month we are featuring the traditional German Pork Knuckle as part of our daily buffets. Diners have the opportunity to enjoy tender and flavorsome pork knuckles cooked to our own special recipe, in a variety of different styles

• The biggest influence on

my career has been my family. I come from a family of cooks, and I started to appreciate cooking from a very young age.

• My cooking philoso-

phy is to cook from my heart and to make my diners appreciate what they eat. So, to make it simple, I cook with passion keeping in mind the respect to satisfy the diners.

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• Thai cuisine is already well known inter-

nationally but these days a lot of modification is made to a dish, and this loses its authenticity.Thai cuisine is on par with other cuisines such as French or Italian as it has its own character and the food indirectly reflects the Kingdom’s culture and history. Using natural traditional ingredients and methods of cooking will further enhance our cuisine’s uniqueness – a great reward for any diner.

• At Ramada Plaza

Bangkok Menam Riverside I have already made changes to the daily buffets and the room service menus, and I am now working on revamping the outlet menus, bringing in more of my own creations. Diners can also look forward to impressive festive season menus for Loy Krathong, Christmas and especially New Year’s Eve, when the food on offer is guaranteed to be innovative, exciting, and created specially with the festivities in mind. Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside, Charoen Krung 72/-1 02 688 1000 :ramadaplazamenamriverside.com/

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Gourmet

Pics|Events

Gourmet scrapbook

Last month’s foodie functions in focus

Lucaris Master of Wine Seminar ■ LUXURY crystal wineware maker Lucaris brought in Ned Goodwin, one of four Masters of Wine in Asia and the 1st Master of Wine in Japan, to present In Vino Veritas: ‘The Truth in and around the glass,’ at the 14th World Gourmet Festival at The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok. Attended by oenophiles from Thailand and abroad, the event featured a range of fine wines served in the Lucaris Tokyo Temptation glass range.

A taste of Argentina at the Rembrandt ■ ARGENTINEAN food and wine took centre stage in a gourmet barbecue event cooked up by visiting Chef Matias Aldasoro, from Santa Julia, at the Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok’s da Vinci Restaurant. Diners enjoyed a sumptuous selection of top grade meats paired with a selection of award winning wines from Zuccardi. The master of ceremonies for the evening was Ambassador of the Republic of Argentina, H. E. Ana Maria Ramirez.

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1.

2.

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Gourmet

Pics|Events

World Gourmet Festival ■ THE 14th annual World Gourmet Festival at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok was a huge success, raising more than 1.7 million baht for the Save A Child’s Life From AIDS project under the auspices of HRH Princess Soamsawali and the Thai Red Cross. The event brought together top chefs from around the world for a week-long series of lunches, dinners, and cooking demonstrations, and was thoroughly enjoyed by foodies of all nationalities.

Michelin chef at Le Beaulieu ■ MICHELIN star Chef Nicolas Isnard from Dijon, France, treated a small group of appreciative diners to his special brand of gastronomy and selected wines at Le Beaulieu restaurant at Athenee Tower. On hand to assist was Beaulieu’s resident Chef Herve Frerard.

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Gourmet

Dining|BB&B

Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy The BB&B dining group finds plenty to rave about at Luce

W

E were well rewarded by our first visit to Luce, the Italian-style restaurant located on the 14th floor of the Eastin Grand Sathorn Hotel. Early arrivals found themselves surrounded by bikini-clad maidens at the restaurant’s entrance ‒ the deck of the swimming pool ‒ but the serious bon viveurs of Beefsteak & Burgundy gave their undivided attention, of course, to the canapés (Seared tuna with olive, cherry tomatoes with ricotta cheese filling and marinated anchovies) and to Domaine Des Granges De Mirabel 2011 (France) before proceeding inside. Dining in earnest began with a generous helping of Salmon tartare with saffron flavoured aged ricotta, accompanied by Santiago Ruiz Albariño 2011 (Spain). Both were excellent with just one or two diners suggesting that a little more lime and/or spice might have improved the dish yet further. Thomas Boedinger, a veteran of B&B’s Shanghai chapter, provided informed comments in his inaugural role as Bangkok’s wine spokesman, and found this to be a fruity wine that might have been served a little colder. The pasta course, Rigatoni with

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sous-vide cooked Wagyu beef cheek ragü, was enjoyed by one and all; food spokesman Mark Guthrie (and one or two others) confessed for once to being unable to finish his helping. The pasta was well matched with Best’s

Great Western Pinot Noir 2005 (West Australia). The main dish, Slow roasted Australian lamb leg marinated in Mediterranean herbs, roasted potatoes with garlic, shallots, olives and cherry tomatoes, and a colourful summer salad, preserved well the texture and flavours of the lamb, though the meat was not quite as rare as we B&B regulars have come to expect. Thomas B praised The Colonial Estate L’Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (Barossa Valley, SA) served with this, but some (myself included) thought the wine needed more time in the glass to achieve its full potential. Tuscany cheese platter with honey and mustard fruits came next along with Ridge Lytton Springs 2007 (California - 74% Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah, 5% Carignan) generously sponsored by birthday boy OAP Grahame Fox. The selection of cheese proved to be exceptional. The meal finished with a serving of Apple cake served with croccantino ice cream (something different that was appreciated by those few diners with appetites remaining) and that old favourite of the Swiss members of BB&B, Domaine du Mont d’Or Crete Ardente Malvoisie du Valais 2007 (Switzerland). Proceedings concluded with a toast and words of thanks for a truly excellent meal to Executive Chef Andre Buser, Chef Edoardo Bonavolta, and Khun Wanrudee and her hard-working team of servers.

33/1 South Sathorn Rd. 02 210 8100 :eastingrandsathorn.com

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Dining|Recipe

cut out and keep

Gourmet

Recipe of the month

Lamb Chops ‒ Bawarchi style! Chef D.S. Rana from Bawarchi Indian Restaurant reveals how to make his signature lamb chops Ingredients (serves 4) • 900g lamb chops • 2-3tbsp. butter • 3tbsp. lemon juice For marinade • 100ml natural yogurt • 1 lime, juice only • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 2.5cm ginger piece, grated • 1tsp. ground cumin • 1tsp. ground coriander • 1tsp. garam masala • Pinch of paprika • Salt For mint and coriander dip • 3 green chillies, chopped • 6 spring onions, chopped • Large bunch of coriander, chopped • Large handful of mint, chopped • 2 limes, juice only • 1 tsp. sugar • 300ml natural yogurt • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method For lamb chops 1. Place the lamb chops in a shallow bowl. 2. Mix all the ingredients for marinade together and pour over the lamb. 3. Cover and chill for 12 hours. 4. Remove the lamb from the marinade and grill until cooked (8-10 minutes), but still slightly pink in the center. 5. Turn halfway through the cooking time and baste with lemon and butter.

For mint and coriander dip 1. Put chillies, onions, coriander, mint, lime juice and a tablespoon of sugar into a food processor and whiz to blend. 2. Stir in the yogurt and season the taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. 3. Serve straight away with the lamb chops.

About the chef

Chef D.S Rana 44

COOKING as a hobby turned into an avid passion for Chef D.S Rana at the age of 16. Determined to become a top chef, he enrolled at the PCTE Institute of Hotel Management, Ludhiana, and kick-started his career after graduation by working under several Head Chefs at popular restaurants in India. Fascinated by the excellent hospitality and service orientation of Thailand, he decided to move here and he now uses his talents to create a wide range of delicious dishes at the flagship branch of the popular Bawarchi Indian Restaurant chain. Bawarchi Chidlom, InterContinental Hotel (President Tower Arcade) B-level, 973 Ploenchit Road 02 656 0102-3 :bawarchiindian.com

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Gourmet

Where to eat

Recommended restaurants and bars French cuisine

Thai cuisine

Patara

Benjarong

The Reflexions

Lyon

Thai restaurant with a menu of delicious Thai dishes done in a contemporary style.The restaurant, the Bangkok outlet of a worldwide chain operated by S&P of Thailand, is modern, relatively small and blessed with lots of onsite parking.The spices, flavours and aromas are unmistakably Thai, but the food is unique without going overboard. Salient examples include the Slices of Raw Tuna in a Lime and Lemongrass Vinaigrette, and Braised New Zealand Lamb in Massaman Curry. A variety of wines are available, including several from Thailand.

flagship hotel in the Thai owned Dusit chain.This place has got to be good and it doesn’t disappoint.The interior is substantial with subdued lighting, heavy chairs and carpeting - definitely not a place for singlets and flip-flops. A large window looks out at a waterfall with outdoor seating surrounding it.The menu consists primarily of Royal Thai cuisine dishes, although less august items also appear on the menu.There are numerous set menus to help Thai food neophytes.The wine list is excellent and the service impeccable.

contemporary French food in modern surroundings. It’s open for casual lunches and relaxed, but mildly elegant, dinners. There is live music from 19.00 – 22.00 each evening to add ambience. Don’t expect traditional French dishes, the menu is contemporary with a great deal of emphasis placed upon presentation. The service is efficient and friendly. The entertainment and atmosphere make this a good place to spend the entire evening.

keeps chugging along, fuelled by a group of regulars who continue returning to its homely comforts. Although a portion of the menu changes regularly, several signature dishes have remained for years. Favourites with many customers include rabbit in white wine sauce, and mushrooms and frog legs sautéed with garlic and dry sherry. There is a walk-in wine cabinet where you can select your wine. The restaurant is located in a converted house with parking out front.

•Patara is a well-managed

375 Soi Thonglor 19, Sukhumvit 55, 02 185 2960 patarathailand.com

Red Pepper

•While most Thai restaurants

at hotels in town play it safe – toning down their dishes to suit the palates of foreigners who find a cup of Yorkshire Tea too spicy for their tastes – Red Pepper is brave enough to shun such expectations and be a little different, serving

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•The flagship restaurant of the •The Reflexions offers

Dusit Thani Hotel, Junction Silom and Rama IV Rds, (BTS Saladaeng or MRT Silom) 02 200 9000

Plaza Athenee Bangkok, Wireless Rd, 200m from Ploenchit Road (BTS 02 650 8800 Ploenchit)

Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm; and 02 261 7100 5pm-11pm rembrandtbkk.com

Soi Ruam Rudee, 250m from Ploenchit Rd, (BTS Ploenchit) 02 253 8141

food which, when it says it’s spicy, is actually spicy. Topped with the slogan “Seafood at its best,” the menu boasts a wealth of fish and shellfish prepared just as you like, plus a choice of salads, soups, appetizers, mains, noodles and rice dishes. Standout selections include the Sautéed rock lobster with green curry (B665++), and Whole sea bass steamed with a spicy lime juice dressing, (B495++. 500g).

•This French restaurant

D’Sens

•This restaurant puts to rest

arguments Bangkok is a backwater restaurant town. Dusit Thani Bangkok has teamed with Jacques and Laurent Pourcel, operators of a twostar Michelin restaurant in Montpellier, France, to create D’Sens. Located on the top

floor of the hotel, the restaurant is lavishly decked out in red and has beautiful views of Lumpini Park and the city. The food, as expected, is expensive, but superbly executed and presented. The wine list at 550 bottles is one of the most extensive in the city. Dusit Thani Hotel, Junction Silom and Rama IV Rds (BTS Saladaeng or MRT Silom) 02 200 9000 ext. 2449

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Steakhouse

Fireplace Grill

This restaurant has been at the same location for eons, but underwent radical surgery along with the renovation of the hotel. The interior is no longer that of an English country inn but is now ultra chic, modern and subdued with an open grill featuring loads of gleaming stainless steel. It serves excellent steaks and seafood, has a massive wine collection, and great service to match. InterContinental Hotel/ Holiday Inn on Ploenchit Rd (BTS Chidlom) 02 656 0444

RR&B Rib Room and Bar

The Rib Room and Bar has taken grill restaurants in Bangkok to new heights. Located on the 31st floor and decked out in Ferrari red, its interior is stunning and the views provided spectacular. Steaks from Australia, the USA, Japan and Thailand prepared in an open kitchen and accompanied by a delicious supporting cast are what this place is all about. Expensive, but the good food and rush provided by the setting make it worth the price. Landmark Hotel, Sukhumvit Rd between Sois 4 02 254 0404 and 6 (BTS Nana),

Prime

•Magnificent views of the Chao Phraya,

prime US and Australian beef, over 2000 wines, a fabulous selection of desserts, and a modern, but seductively warm interior, Prime has it all. If you’re in the mood for a memorable and romantic night on the town, this restaurant is hard to beat. If you and the apple of your eye are confirmed carnivores, you can share a 1080gm Aussie Porterhouse for Baht 3,900. But it is not all beef at Prime; there are numerous other items on the menu, including primo lobster and fresh oysters. Millennium Hilton on the Chao Phraya (BTS Saphan Taksin then complimentary hotel shuttle 02 442 2000 boat)

Indian cuisine Voilà!

T Himali Cha Cha

Himali Cha Cha has long been a popular choice for North Indian and Halal cuisine and now operates four branches in Bangkok. Highly recommended by the Lonely Planet, each restaurant always draws a big crowd of diners looking to enjoy an authentic Moghul curry, and as all food is prepared with freshly ground spices and natural ingredients, they’re not disappointed. Meat from the specially designed tandoori oven is always delicious, too. For those who love something spicy, try the Mutton Chutniwalla. There are four restaurants in Bangkok: Charoenkrung 47/1, Saphan Taksin BTS; Sukhumvit 31, Phrompong BTS; Soi Convent, Saladaeng BTS; Nana 3/5, Nana BTS. Deliveries 02 259 6677 also available himalichacha.com

Rang Mahal

•Ask a member of the local

Indian community which is the best Indian restaurant in Bangkok and the answer is invariably ‘Rang Mahal.’ The food is primarily from the Punjab with lots of items from the Tandoor oven, including always-popular tandoor chicken and a variety of Indian flat breads. The interior of the restaurant is lavish without coming across as ticky-tacky; the view from the hotel’s 26th floor is one of the best in the city and there is live Indian music to entertain in the evenings. Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday buffet brunch. Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS Asoke or MRT Sukhumvit) 02 261 7100

HE Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s signature all day dining restaurant Voilà! serves international buffet lunch and dinner to a superb ‘Cuisine on Stage’ concept – which basically means you can order most of your food from live cooking stations, including a Parisian-style rotisserie and an artisan La Cornue stove. The amazing selection of dishes on offer ranges from fresh seafood and oysters on ice to Parisian bistro selections (soups and casseroles), flame grilled rotisserie meats, Italian pasta, fresh pizzas, Asian favourites, and decadent desserts. A cheese room boasts a wealth of premium quality cold cuts and delightfully pungent cheeses from around the world, and there are even 100 bottles of wine to choose from, including 25 choices by the glass. Spoilt for choice? You bet it. Buffet lunch is B995; dinner is B1,450; and Sunday Brunch is B3,999 with free-flow sparkling wines, cocktails and house wines; or B2,600 with soft drinks.The last Sunday of the month a special Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brunch is B4,999. Every Fri and Sat night a Seafood Buffet is just B1,999. (Half price for kids aged 6-12).

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15 (between Nana and Asok BTS stations). 02 126 9999 ext. Voilà! sofitel.com

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Gourmet

Dining out|Signor Sassi

Review

A

Signor Sassi

From London to Bangkok, this iconic restaurant offers Italian dining at its best

AS one of London’s most popular Italian restaurants, Signor Sassi has the finedining formula down to a tee. Food made with only the best imported ingredients? Check. Signature dishes you won’t find elsewhere? Check. Sumptuous surroundings and celebrity clients? Check and check. The good news is that you don’t have to fork out for a flight to the UK to enjoy all this because, since opening in September 2012, the Bangkok branch of Signor Sassi has been painstakingly developed to provide everything that makes the London flagship so popular, right here in the City of Angels. Located on the 37th floor of the Anantara Bangkok Sathorn, a five-star hotel close to Chong Nonsi BTS station and Arkhan Songkhro BRT station, this standalone restaurant boasts elegant décor with classical elements ‒ think tables topped with crisp white tablecloths, silver cutlery polished so well that it gleams, and service staff dressed to impress. Photos of Thai celebs who’ve dined at the restaurant line the back walls, while the vast expanse of the city, spied

through floor-to-ceiling windows which sweep between the dining room and a large outdoor terrace, puts on a dazzling performance every night. Executive Chef Filippo Pagani, a Signor Sassi veteran whose past experience includes opening two international franchises of the brand in Kuwait, creates around 90% of his dishes (the same menu as the London branch, plus a specials menu unique to Bangkok) using top quality produce imported from Italy. Among the imports: the famed Morelli mushroom, a wild, truffle-like delicacy which costs B6,000 per kilo and adds plenty of rich flavour to dishes such as Scalloppine Morrelli (veal scaloppine with a creamy sauce. B1,680++). While Signor Sassi snubs pizza ‒ normally a ubiquitous Italian restaurant staple ‒ in favour of more refined dishes, that’s not to say that the cuisine on offer is complicated. The reason the London branch has been doing a roaring trade since it opened in 1984 is due in large part to its simplicity ‒ ingredients retain their natural integrity (no molecular-style tinkering here) and food on the plate is

Anantara Bangkok Sathorn (37th floor), Narathiwat-Ratchanakarin Rd. Open daily 12 Noon-2.30pm; 6pm-11pm

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instantly recognizable. The Venice-inspired Cod pâté (Pate di Baccala alla Venezia. B510++), spread on toasted home-made bread, is simply irresistible, delighting the palate with a wonderfully smooth, creamy texture and taste, the results of expert blending with olive oil and a touch of milk. The Spaghetti Lobster (B1,625++), a Signor Sassi classic, is just as good, wowing with its rich bisque-like flavour, perfectly cooked angel hair pasta, and succulent pieces of fresh lobster. Other highlights include the signature Caesar salad with chicken (B640++); Monk fish with white wine, tomato and Radicchio sauce (B1,370++); and Lamb Noisettes with gravy mint sauce (B1,520++) ‒ all simple yet delicious dishes which showcase Chef Filippo’s talent for harmonizing the vibrant flavours of each ingredient he uses. Rounding out the experience are a good selection of antipasti, soups, salads, grilled meats, and home-made desserts (try the Tiramisu. B360++) and, as you’d expect from a restaurant of this caliber, an extensive wine list featuring some of Italy's finest labels. ☎ 02 210 9011 or 02 286 9688 :signorsassi.co.uk

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Gourmet

Dining out|M Pub

Review

S

M Pub

Sathorn Road’s first European-style pub offers imported beers and international eats at great value for money

SATHORN Road’s entertainment offerings have been given a great boost with the arrival of this new gastro-pub on the ground floor of the Ascott Hotel. Owned and operated by 2 The Big Mango Group, the same company behind the popular Pintsman and After Hours pubs on Silom Road, M Pub has taken what’s great about its sisters and built on the concepts ‒ offering a whopping 100 imported beers by the bottle, an extensive international food menu, and a roster of nightly entertainment that includes a live acoustic duo on Mon-Thurs and Sat-Sun, and a live band on Friday nights. Polished wooden floors, blondetimber furniture, subdued lighting, and a neck-craning ceiling supported by three illuminated columns ensure the atmosphere is distinctly modern; while a hodgepodge of decorative elements

‒ plates from Holland, portraits of the Duke of Wellington, humorous plaques with slogans like “Alcohol: I only drink it to make you more interesting” ‒ inject plenty of European flavour. The pub’s chef, a Thai national, began his career over 15 years ago working in the kitchens of O’Reilly’s Irish pub. Since then he’s worked at several high-end hotels and expat-owned bars so he knows exactly how to please discerning western palates, cooking up everything from Traditional Irish stew (featuring huge, succulent chunks of lamb in a deliciously thick soup. B250++) and Mixed grilled seafood (featuring cod, salmon steak, skewered squid, skewered prawns. B490++; or B390++ without salmon), to Beef tenderloin steak (200g. B500++) and Pork ribs (smeared in a divine, sweet and spicy BBQ sauce. B320++).

G Floor, Ascott Sathorn Bangkok, Sathorn Road. Open daily 10am-1am

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Local tastes are rewarded, meanwhile with delicious dishes such as Chicken green curry (B220++), Spicy minced pork balls (B190++), and Chicken with cashew nuts (B220++). To wash the food down there are the aforementioned beers, with a nationhopping selection that ranges in price from B130++ for Beer Lao, to B600 for the famous Estrella Damm Inedit from Spain. An extensive cocktail list is also on offer, as well as a good selection of wines. Daily Happy Hours from 4pm8pm offer 20% off imported bottled beer, Heineken pints at B100++ and selected imported pints at B180++. A Four-course set lunch menu, starting at B159++, is available daily from 11am-3pm, Bar snacks (think Spinach gratin, Onion rings, and Cheese nachos) are B150++ from 3pm-9pm, and every Mon-Fri there’s 20% off cake.

☎ 02 676 6676 facebook.com/thempub

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Experience Italian cuisine at its best Enjoy exquisite dishes cooked with care and presented with flair by Chef Stefano Merlo- a two-times champion of Iron Chef Thailand! Authentic flavours guaranteed Top quality imported ingredients bring the real taste of Italy to Bangkok Superb atmosphere Our wonderfully renovated house has a real homely ambience

39 Sukhumvit soi 27 north klongtoey Bangkok 10110 Tel: 02 258 4386

Email: enotecabangkok@gmail.com www.enotecabangkok.com AD Enotica_Oct13.indd 1

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Gourmet

Dining out|DoubleTree

Review

Sunday Brunch Dee Lite

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DoubleTree by Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok all-day-dining restaurant is the perfect venue for a family feast

IN a hospitality world obsessed with modern, contemporary cool, it’s always a pleasure when you come across a hotel brand that’s unafraid of also embracing the past in its design and core concepts ‒ especially when these revolve around family. Take the DoubleTree by Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok, for instance. Designed to reflect the art-deco-style of the early twentieth century, complete with rotary dial telephones, record players and old-fashioned candy dispensers as ornaments, the hotel also harkens back to more innocent days by offering each guest who checks in a freshly baked and still warm chocolate chip cookie. The culinary equivalent of a great big hug, this sets the scene for an accommodation experience that’s homely, family friendly, and wonderfully unpretentious, too. The same can also be said about the

hotel’s dining options, particularly the all-day-dining restaurant Dee Lite, whose weekly Sunday brunch boasts one of the best family-friendly set ups in town. What makes it so special? Well, while mum and dad tuck into a hearty selection of international and local cuisines, the kids can burn off steam jumping on a bouncy castle, get to grips with face painting, cookie baking, and T-shirt making, and even lounge around on beanbags in their own cinema room. Knee-high tables present a wide range of foods created specially just for them, and they even get their own live entertainment in the form of The Cookie Clown. All activities are supervised by trained nannies leaving parents free to catch up on some well-deserved R&R, which is best started here with a glass or two of the hotel’s signature Chocolate Cookie

18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26

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Martini, followed by several plates of Dee Lite’s delicious offerings (don’t miss the roasted carved meats ‒ succulent and packed with flavour). As you would expect from a hotel under the Hilton Worldwide umbrella, all food at Dee Lite is made using the finest ingredients available and cooked with care by the talented culinary team. Service is swift and efficient and, true to the spirit of the DoubleTree by Hilton brand, genuinely friendly too. Sunday Brunch is B1,500 for adults (includes welcome drink) and B750 for kids aged 5-12 (includes all activities and freeflow of juices, soft drinks, and milkshakes). Kids under five eat for free. Diners can enjoy their meal out on the terrace or in the air conditioned dining room, which features diner-style seating and comfortable private booths. Ample parking is available.

☎02 649 6666 :sukhumvitbangkok.doubletree.com

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Dining out|Axis & Spin

Gourmet

Review

Axis & Spin

A great place to relax, dine, and party, The Continent Hotel’s rooftop bar boasts stunning views, innovative cocktails, and some delicious Italian cuisine

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AT 6.45pm, 38 floors above Asok junction, the inner-workings of Bangkok are laid bare for all to see. The roads, no longer just thoroughfares for cars, become vibrant veins of red and white light as commuters head to and from the city’s commercial heart. Buildings fire up like neurons revealing just how vast and complex the metropolis is, and the sun, a tangerine smear on the horizon, slips unconscious into the night. It’s a heavenly view indeed ‒ and, at Axis & Spin, it’s just one of the highlights on offer. Spread across two floors connected with a spiral staircase, this trendy establishment boasts an intimate drinking den complete with comfy couches downstairs, and a minimalist-style bar with outdoor terrace above. Floor-to-ceiling windows in both locations ensure wherever you sit you’ll enjoy the same great view, and each area serves the same extensive drinks and food menus.

Expert mixologists create a wide range of tempting cocktails, ranging from tried-and-tested classics such as Long Island iced tea (B300++), to ‘Prohibition-era’ cocktails like Mary Pinkford (B280++) and unique signatures such as the vodka-based Hello Kitty (B400++). Anyone who’s visited The Continent Hotel’s popular Italian restaurant, Medinii, will be familiar with the cuisine on offer ‒ a wide selection of authentic Italian dishes with just a dash of Asian flavour. In fact, since Medinii has now adopted a buffet concept full-time (see What’s Cooking, page 32) much of the restaurant’s former à la carte menu is now served exclusively at Axis & Spin. Pasta fans will love the Carbonara (B420++), a thick and creamy triumph which has plenty of flavour without being overly rich, and the Aglio E Olio (B350++), which has a tongue-tingling blend of garlic,

The Continent Hotel, 413 Sukhumvit Road. Open 11am-1am

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spicy chillis and sundried tomatoes. For fish, the Crisp-skinned Pacific Ocean snow fish (B890++) is a highlight, coming with potato fondant, and baby carrot with Bordelaise sauce; and the Tasmanian wild salmon (B790++) is tasty too, featuring a deliciously meaty portion of fish with sautéed vegetables and berry sauce. If you prefer traditional Italian staples you’ll find a great selection of salads, pizzas, pastas, and risottos to choose from. And meat lovers shouldn’t miss the Beef tenderloin steak with ratatouille and chargrilled Wagyu striploin‒ a melt-inthe-mouth treat of top grade beef topped with foie gras. Axis & Spin is open daily 6pm-1am and is within walking distance of Asok BTS and Sukhumvit MRT stations. Enjoy two-for-one selected drinks every Tues-Sat between 1pm-8.30pm; and the same deal until 1am on Sun-Mon.

☎ 02 686 7000 :thecontinentdining.com :facebook.com/AxisandSpinBangkok

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Feature

Insight|Street life

Bangkok’s traffic beaters

Motorcycle taxis offer the quickest way around the city streets. And with congestion getting worse, they’re in a surprisingly well regulated business that shows no signs of slowing down. Maxmilian Wechsler meets some of the drivers to get their views on a vital service that has no shortage of critics

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SINCE the introduction of motorcycle taxis, or “motorsai rabjang,” in Bangkok more than 30 years ago, this two-wheel form of transport has developed into a multi-billion baht industry that continues to grow. It is estimated there are 4,800 motorcycle taxi stands, or “win,” with approximately 200,000 individual riders, or drivers, in Bangkok alone, while the total number in the provinces is probably more than double that. Motorcycle stands are everywhere on street corners, outside markets and shopping centers, at mass transit stations and anywhere else people may be looking for a way to beat

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the traffic over a usually short trip. The drivers are easily recognizable by the colorful vests they wear - orange, pink, green, blue, green or red, each with the district, the rider’s number and the exact location of his or her win. The motorcycle taxi business has never experienced a decline, even in the midst of economic crises and recurrent allegations of mafia involvement, dubious political affiliations, and the drivers’ disregard for traffic laws. Complaints about their reckless conduct are common, particularly the heart-stopping way they zig-zag through lines of cars and buses, and on occasions even drive against the flow

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of traffic, endangering themselves, their passengers as well as other motorists and pedestrians. Female passengers often say they don’t feel comfortable riding ‘side saddle’ when wearing long dresses, though it is reckoned to be marginally preferable to sitting astride the machine and hanging on to the driver for dear life. Despite all the negatives, motorcycle taxis are an increasingly vital mode of transport for people of all ages, gender and position in society. Indeed, one Thai celebrity who made a decent living from her paid appearances at hi-so parties found the only way she could get from one event to several others on the same night was on the back of a motorbike. Diplomats and businessmen are also known to have made appointments only by virtue of a two-wheel taxi. In Bangkok, there are three categories of motorcycle taxis: Those wearing vests and registered with the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA); those wearing vests but not registered; and drivers who don’t wear vests and aren’t registered. Motorcycle taxis are also present in other countries including Brazil, Cambodia, Cameroon, China, France, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Nigeria, South Africa, Sweden, Uganda, United Kingdom and Vietnam, though not in such large numbers. The practice was introduced in 2011 in Los Angeles and New York.

Pioneering days As Bangkok grew and its roads became more congested, people were forced to look for new ways to beat the traffic and the most effective solution turned out to motorcycle taxis. The first ones appeared in 1979 at Soi Ngam Duplee in the Sathorn district of Sukh Soi 4 Bangkok. At that time, there were several communities inside the soi, quite far from Rama 4 Road. The mostly lower income residents had to travel to the main street to reach bus routes and many couldn’t afford to pay for a tuk-tuk or taxi. Some enterprising locals in the soi started a motorcycle taxi service that quickly became very popular and was duplicated in Don Mueang, Bangkapi and other Bangkok districts, as well as in a number of Thai provinces. In the early years, with more and more people using motorcycle taxis, the business operated in unregulated conditions that caused problems for drivers and passengers alike. Before 2005 every win team was organized independently by influential people such as politicians and those wearing uniforms of various colours. Every driver had to pay a fee ranging from 700 to 3,000 baht a month depending on the area to the group’s leader, who passed the money along to the gang that controlled the area. In 2005, the Thai government intervened, imposing regulations that included the registration of taxi drivers and guidelines on fare rates. Every motorcycle taxi was supposed to register at the local district office of the BMA. They were given

an orange vest for free. However, many people who bought the vests sold them on, often to the old influential people. Some bought dozens and resold or rented them. The trade in the vests continues to this day and is highly lucrative, with prices up to 250,000 baht (see sidebar) and includes not only orange vests but other colours as well. Government efforts at regulation have only been partly successful, although the situation is definitely improving as various authorities, including the BMA, try to suppress the mafia gangs that still operate and extort money from motorcycle taxi operators in some Bangkok districts. Many districts are free of mafia influence and the motorcycle taxis can keep all their earnings for themselves. This was confirmed by many drivers interviewed by The BigChilli.

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Motorcycle taxis tell their stories Out of 12 taxi motorcycle taxis approached, only four agreed to an interview on record. The rest spoke freely but didn’t want their names and photographs published, fearing reprisals that could result in dismissal from their win, or even physical harm. The four who spoke on record said that they have nothing to fear as no mafia elements are present in the locations they work. Prasert Chalernsisuk, 46, is native of Bangkok, single, and has been a motorcycle taxi driver for 15 years. He is now a team leader of 13 motorcycle taxis based at the front of Lumpini Park View condominium on Rama 4 Road in Sathorn district. He rides a Suzuki Smash 110cc, bought on a hire-purchase arrangement for 45,000 baht. “I like this job because I am independent and can choose my working hours. I prefer to drive a motorcycle taxi rather than a cab. I don’t have to pay rent for the cab every day, I don’t get stuck in traffic jams and I spend less for fuel. Motorcycles are also much more maneuverable than taxis. I can go around and between cars, although this can be dangerous when drivers deliberately block my way,” Mr Prasert said. He works from 9am to 8pm and earns up to 500 baht a day. His only expense is 80 to 120 baht for gasoline. Other income comes from renting motorcycle vests to his 13 team members. Eleven of them pay 300 baht a month per driver, while the other two pay 100 and 150 baht respectively because they have been with him for a long time. On the day of this interview he had only made 200 baht by the evening. He said he charges the same fares for Thais and foreigners, regardless of them being regular customers or not. “I always wear a helmet and try to make sure my passengers do too. Sometimes customers, especially the ones going far will ask for the helmet even before I do, but there are some who don’t like to wear a helmet at all. When a customer is making a short trip, like inside the soi, I won’t insist on the helmet, but for a long trip it is a must because there could be a police checkpoint along the way,” Mr Prasert said.

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Feature

Insight|Street life

After ferrying the customer to his or her destination, he returns to his win, but will pick up a customer on the way back. However, he must be careful if the pickup is not close to his win because this could create problems for him. “This is a general rule for all motorcycle taxis anywhere in Bangkok. It is like stealing customers. Sometimes groups of motorcycle taxis have disputes and confrontations over accusations of stealing customers,” Mr Prasert said. He explained that to become a motorcycle taxi driver the applicant must be at least 20 years old and possess a motorcycle license to carry passengers. The driver must find a win and get permission to work from the win team leader and the other riders. If everyone agrees the leader will go with the new member to the local BMA district office to register. The new rider will then receive a vest that allows him or her to work only at the designated win,” Mr Prasert said. “Sometimes police will ask motorcycle taxis to watch for suspicious people or activities, but this doesn’t mean they won’t stop and fine us for traffic offenses, which is the perception of some people. The local police are usually more lenient but the Traffic Police Division [they wear orange helmets] is very strict. For example, if passengers don’t wear a helmet the fine will be 400 baht. From the information Mr Prasert written on our vest, a policemen Chalernsisuk will know where the motorcycle (Serd) taxi is based.

Mrs Ananyada Waipojanat

Mr Pichai Weerasitthichok (Ped)

“I also deliver parcels and documents, but before accepting I check the contents to make sure there’s nothing illegal like drugs inside. If the customer won’t allow me look inside, then the deal is off. I charge a little bit more for the delivery because often I have to spend extra time to bring the item to a company or person inside an office or condominium,” said Mr Prasert.

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“I also get jobs where a woman asks me to follow her boyfriend or husband, and this is when I can make good money. But I must be careful that the man doesn’t see me. I’ve never been asked by a man to follow his girlfriend or wife.” Asked about taxes on his earnings, Mr Prasert said: “According to the law a person making less than 15,000 baht a month is exempted from paying tax. Normally, none of us reach this amount.” “While taxi drivers may consider us competitors, along with the Skytrain, subway or minibuses, we really have no competition. In fact, we get many passengers from the subway as one Lumpini entrance is located close to our win.” Mr Prasert said he rarely has problems with Thai customers, but foreigners can be a different story. One asked him to take him to a certain location and after getting there he complained about the price, saying that he had paid less with other motorcycle taxis before. “I explained that different groups of motorcycle taxis charge different fares. Foreigners may not know that the prices vary depending on the particular team. Often it is a language problem, because most taxi drivers can’t speak English. “Thais normally don’t ask the price before getting on the motorcycle because they know how much the fare is, but I must say that they ask more often than foreigners,” Mr Prasert said. He said he likes the job very much and doesn’t know when he is going to retire. “Motorcycle taxis continue to be popular because of traffic jams, especially during rush hours. However, I think that there are now too many motorcycle taxis in Bangkok competing with each other.” Witthaya Chaisiriwongsawang, 42, is also from Bangkok. He is married with two children. He has been a driver for two years, and is stationed at Sathorn Road Soi 10. He rides a Honda Wave 110cc. “I like my job because I am free and independent; I have no boss and can work when I want. I used to work for a jewelry company as a messenger, so I know Bangkok very well and can satisfy my customers,” Mr Witthaya said. “I work from 7am to 10pm and can earn up to 600 baht a day, but sometimes it is only 300 baht. Fuel costs me about 100 baht a day, but this is my only expense because I eat at home.” Mr Witthaya rents his jacket for 1,000 baht a month and has applied for registration with the BMA’s Bangrak district office, but is waiting for approval. His motorcycle still has a white number plate which makes it illegal to carry passengers and makes him vulnerable to police checks and fines. After his application is approved, he will get a yellow number plate and says he will be able to relax then. He said local police Mr Witthaya had asked him to observe Chaisiriwongsawang and report on suspicious (Hua) people, as is common. Sometimes the police also

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The district in which each driver operates is always displayed at the top of the vest.

The driver’s number

The location of the driver’s win (motorcycle taxi stand). These can be quite detailed. In this case: “Intersection near 7-11 on Sathorn Soi 10.” Soi Ngam Du Phli

ask drivers to help with locating specific people who are suspected of criminal behavior. “I will continue in this job until I am old and I believe I have a good future. I wear a helmet and tell my customers to wear one as well, but it is up to them; I can’t force them. Some will, some won’t,” said Witthaya, who also delivers parcels and packages. When asked about problems with customers, Mr Witthata said: “Sometimes they don’t have enough money and promise me that they will pay next time, which they usually do. As for foreigners, they often think they are being overcharged, which is not true; I charge Thais and foreigners the same price.” Pichai Weerasitthichok, 29, was born in Bangkok and is still single. He rides a Honda Wave 125cc bought on hirepurchase for 45,000 baht after trading in his old motorcycle. He joined the ranks of motorcycle taxis only five months ago and is stationed at Sathorn Road Soi 12. He hasn’t registered with the BMA as yet. “I used to be a motorcycle messenger for a company and left because of disagreements with the boss. My friend suggested I try driving a motorcycle taxi. So far I really I like the job. I feel free, and I hope that I can work for a long time,” Mr Pichai said. He rents his jacket for 1,200 baht a month starts work at 7.30am and finishes around 9pm. He’s off on weekends. “Maybe it sounds like I work long hours, but I don’t ride all the time. I don’t feel really tired because I am happy with the job. I can make up to 500 baht a day. Besides jacket rental, my expenses are about 80 baht a day for

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AVERAGE PRICE LIST FOR VESTS IN CENTRAL BANGKOK POSING as potential motorcycle taxi drivers, two investigators approached motorcycle stands in central Bangkok asking for job. They were told the following price: Location

Price in Baht

Petchburi Road

50,000 - 250,000

Sukhumvit Road

70,000 -140,000

Silom Road

50,000 -120,000

Soi Ngam Duplee

70,000 -100,000

Rama 4 Road

40,000 - 200,000

Sathorn Road

70,000 - 80,000

Chan Road

20,000 -100,000

Rama 1 Road

70,000 - 90,000

Note: In comparison to a survey conducted in December 2008, prices have hardly changed since that time.

gasoline, and once a year I have to pay a fee of 100 baht to extend my driving license at the local Department of Land Transport, the same as all motorcycle taxis. “I usually pick up and drop off my customers within a radius of about two kilometers of my win. I can pick up customers on the way back to the win but must be careful it is not in proximity of another motorcycle taxi stand because this could get me in trouble. “I always wear a helmet. I don’t insist that passengers wear a helmet but when going far and on major roads with many traffic lights and police, I will give them a helmet. Often when they are going a long distance, the passenger asks for the helmet themselves.” Mr Pichai described himself as a careful driver. “I always ride on the left side of the road and go slowly. Also, I keep going between cars to a minimum. I am very careful sometimes passengers ask me to go faster.” He suggested that the information on the vest should be written in English as well as Thai. “I hope this will happen in the future, so foreigners can find and contact a motorcycle taxi for whatever reason, like in case of an accident.” Ananyada Waipojanat, 43, was born in Bangkok and is married with two children. She started driving her motorcycle taxi about two years ago and rides a Honda Wave 110 cc which belongs to her husband. “My win is located on Sathupradit Road Soi 23 in Yannawa district. I usually carry Thai passengers in the vicinity of Sathorn Road. I don’t have too many foreign customers. “Before I was working for a jewelry company, but the money wasn’t enough to look after my children and my parents, who live near my home. However, I still work for the same company part-time,” Mrs Ananyada said.

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Feature

Insight|Street life

“I work every day from 6am to 9pm. I like the job because I am independent and can choose my working hours, and also because I meet many people. I registered with the BMA two years ago in Yannawa district and it cost me only 250 baht for the jacket. I was lucky because there was a vacancy at that particular location. I cannot change locations because the vest is just for that win. Now it is very hard and expensive to buy a jacket from the owner. Not many want to sell, but renting one is not difficult. “I make around 300 baht per day and don’t have to pay anyone at all. The only expense I have is around 80 baht for gasoline a day. However, every motorcycle taxi must spend some money from time to time for motorcycle repairs but as far as I know not much goes wrong with our motorcycles. There are seven of us at the stand and I am the only woman there. It is quite rare to find women drivers. “I didn’t have any training but haven’t had any accidents so far and haven’t had any problems with the police either. I am very careful. I transport only people, no deliveries. “I wear a helmet all the time, and I tell every customer to wear one as well. They will usually comply. I don’t have trouble with customers, but one woman told me to stop because she was afraid while I was going between cars. Normally, I ride slowly. “I would like to work at this job for a long time. I am happy and everyone working in my win is happy as well,” Mrs Ananyada concluded.

Motorcycle fare meters It is compulsory to have fare meters installed in taxi cabs, but there’s no such regulation for motorcycle taxis. There has been some movement in that direction

Drivers from Soi Ngam Du Phli

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but nothing concrete as yet. However, if such a regulation were imposed it would definitely bring big changes for this big and profitable industry. According to press reports, one company has been testing motorcycle meters developed by two American expats residing in Thailand. The developers have been in contact with Thai authorities, and therefore no one should be too surprised if one day they are required, something drivers agree would be a game-changer. Of 12 drivers BigChilli asked about this innovation, all were against it with one saying “it will make it fairer for the customers…” Mr Prasert said it would be hard to implement because gasoline prices keep increasing while presumably the meter price would remain the same. “I don’t think I would like to have a meter because my income would drop when fuel goes up. I don’t think the customers would like it either because sometimes the fare for a long distance is negotiated.” Mr Witthaya said motorcycle taxis would lose money on short distances and the customers wouldn’t like it if going a long way because it would cost them more than what they could negotiate for. Moreover, he said, there’s really no need for meters. Mr Pichai agreed that it would be nearly impossible to implement the installation of meters on every motorcycle taxi. Also, as motorcycle taxis are exposed to rain and are likely to have minor accidents that might damage the meter, it would be up to the driver to make repairs. Overall, he said, meters are “impractical.” Mrs Ananyada said: “I don’t know if it is good for us, but I think it’s practical because it will make it fairer for the customers since some motorcycle taxis take advantage of the customers. Other drivers said they might The prices on full lose income because they couldn’t display near the negotiate with the customer. Some Indonesian Embassy even admitted they can make good money by charging foreigners more and, in some situations, charging Thais more as well. One old-time motorcycle driver who heard about the meter and a saw clip from the trial on YouTube said: “Just because someone wants to make a lot of money from selling motorcycle meters and someone else might be willing to make the meters compulsory, maybe for financial rewards, doesn’t mean the motorcycle drivers will accept it just like that. When everything is going well and smoothly, why create complications for something that is not necessary?” he asked. Anyone observing a particular motorcycle stand on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 24 during rush hour would probably agree with him. It is impressive to see how well organized both drivers and passengers, Thai and foreigners, can be. They wait patiently for a few minutes in the queue until motorcycles arrive at short intervals to take them to their destination. There is no argument or discussion about the fares because everyone knows what to expect. The passengers jump on the motorcycle and tell the driver where to go, as if part of a well-oiled machine.

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Expat WOMEN ď ° Put your feet up and indulge

Bangkok’s Broadway Babe talks about her life as a performer in the City of Angels. Page 64.

Inspiration

Meet the American expat who turns old rice bags into fashion accessories Page 62

Shopping

Hot new products and stores demanding your attention Page 66

Health

Nutritionist Judith Coulson on weight loss blunders and how to avoid them Page 78 TheBigChilli

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Expat Women

Business|Carry On

From rice bags to handbags

How American expat Linda O’Connor Jennings found her inspiration in Thailand By Chutinanta Boonyamarn

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SOME entrepreneurs believe that passion is the most important ingredient in building a successful business. But there’s another, equally vital, element that goes into establishing a winning trade – a keen eye for inspiration. American expat Linda O’Connor Jennings is certainly evidence of this. She first spotted the inspiration for her business around 30 years ago when travelling to the once secluded, culturally-rich province of Chiang Rai. And, although it’s taken almost three decades to get her resulting business, called Carry On, off the ground, her eco-friendly and unique handbags have been definitely worth the wait. Although Linda’s education background is in design, she spent most of her early career working as a flight attendant for an international carrier – a job that would take her all around the world and foster her love for collecting trinkets of all descriptions, including stickers, posters, and vintage hatboxes, which, upon returning to her then home-base of Honolulu, Hawaii, she would sell in a vintage design shop she ran for five years with friends. Featured in Travel & Leisure and the NY Times, Linda’s shop was edgy, cool, and in her own words “ahead of its time.” Just one glance at the shelves lined with all kinds of retro relics and you’d know immediately she had a keen eye for detail. It’s no surprise, then, that during a flight layover in Thailand in the mid ’80s Linda would discover an idea for a product which she now sells to customers all around the world – rice bags turned into chic fashion accessories. “I travelled to Chiang Rai and visited a small market where hill tribes came together to sell their wares,” she says. “And here I saw two hill tribe women carrying their worldly possessions in two large rice bags with wonderful red rooster graphics on them. “I thought the bags looked great, so I asked around and eventually found a place that sold rice bags with graphics about everyday life in the Land of Smiles. So I bought a couple and took them back to Honolulu where I asked one of my friends to use the material to make a simple grocery bag.” Linda soon realized the bag’s potential went way beyond simply carrying fruits and veggies. Due to its durable, waterproof material, and striking design, it made for a great beach bag too. And when she flaunted the stylish bag on the sands, it wasn’t long before her friends asked her to make them one too. 62

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As the tired business cliché goes, a business person smells what’s selling. And these bags had the scent of success all over them. However, despite the early interest in the bags and a few sales in her shop in Honolulu, it wouldn’t be until 2003 that Linda would begin to turn the idea into a business. This was the year that, after a stint in Hong Kong, Linda and her family relocated to Bangkok following her husband’s job.

“I wanted to carry on doing something to keep me busy,” Linda says, “so I discovered all kinds of interesting bags from around the region, including Rattan bags from Chiang Mai, and I decided not just to make bags, but to wholesale them too.” For eight months Linda operated a store in Chatuchak market, an experience which required a lot of hard work and which didn’t warrant repeating when, at the end of her contract, the market wanted to up her rent. “It was just too expensive,” she says. So instead she decided to close down the store and focus her efforts on charities and events held by the American Women’s Club. During this period she also rediscovered her love for rice bags and the creative possibilities they offered. Finding rice bags suitable for Linda’s creative needs proved to be difficult at first because the quality of the bags varied immensely. Poor materials, uninspiring graphics, and stubborn vendors who wouldn’t let her choose the designs she liked, meant bargaining for what she wanted was a chore. But Linda prevailed, and eventually she met a vendor who not only provided everything Linda wanted, but who also gave her the contact details for a seamstress who once worked for Jim Thompson, and who now sews many of Linda’s bags. The rest of her designs are sewed by a group of underprivileged women with whom Linda has forged close links. “I love going to pick up my bags from these women and know that I am contributing to their welfare and self esteem,” says Linda. “The goal of my business is to support the local community and I’m happy to help when I can. “In every item I produce I include a small card which has ‘Women Helping Women – a reason to buy the bag’ written on it. And this is true: every chance I get I will work with the underprivileged women to help improve their lives somehow.” Bourgeoning demand for Linda’s uniquely designed rice handbags led her to establish Carry On as a company in 2010. In the beginning, Linda wanted to emphasize the rice bags’ unique pictures and logos – cultural slices of authentic Thai culture. Later, however, she began focusing on ‘up-cycling’ (that is, adding value to) her bags, by adding interesting handles, fittings, nicely finished pockets, zippers and snaps. Linda’s product range now includes bags to suit every occasion – be it a casual holiday at the beach or afternoon tea at an upscale hotel. What’s more, on top of handbags, she now offers everything from luggage tags and wine insulated bags to jewelry and yoga mat holders – all made from recycled rice bags. Products range in price from B120 for a luggage tag up to B1,600 for a handbag with tribal handles. Every item in Carry On’s collection is unique and this really means that no two bags are the same. Even if the patterns on a bag are similar, they will each have a different handle or a different shape. There really is something for everyone. When asked about her future plans, Linda says that besides participating in two fairs each month, the International Creators’ Fair and Bangkok’s Farmer Market, she hopes to expand her travel line, including cosmetics bags, small bags and shoes bags, as well as to see her products being used in small hotels in Thailand.

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For more info about Carry On and its products Tel: 087 008 6291 www.carryonltd.etsy.com www.facebook.com/CarryOnLtd

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Expat Women

Insight|Q&A

Bangkok’s American expat Kristen Evelyn Rossi talks about her life as a performer in Bangkok When did you first come to Bangkok and what brought you here? I first came to Bangkok in 2006 on a whim really. I was in between my third and fourth year at acting school and thought, “there’s got to be more to life than head shots and monologues,” so I volunteered for three months at Pattaya Orphanage. When I returned to the States I decided I would graduate early and move out to Thailand for a year or two; have an adventure!

When did you establish Broadway Babe and what’s the philosophy behind it? Have you always had a love for Broadway-style entertainment? Justin Brooks (the Creative Director) and I started Broadway Babe at the end of last year and launched our first show in March 2013 at The Hop in Bangkok. The concept is to bring/share Broadway style to Southeast Asia. I have loved musical theater since I was a child. From as long as I can remember my mother was showing me old musical films or singing lullabies from famous shows (Rogers and Hammerstein, etc). Growing up in New York I also had the privilege to see lots of Broadway shows. We would go twice a year, usually at Christmas and then for another occasion. Most influential artist? Madonna. She is fierce and tenacious and follows through with what she believes in. I am the same. If I have something I believe in I am committed to the very end. What can we expect from one of your own shows? The shows are one-hour musical revues. The series is called Vintage Nights and each show is different. Different cast, music, storyline, venue, etc. The upcoming show, to be held from November 7-9, is called ‘Swingin’ On Nothing.’ Set in 1941, it is a story about a family in NYC during WWII, swing dance which brings them together and the war which ultimately tears them apart. The cast is small, four performers, one pianist and Justin running lights and sound backstage. The show will have a lot of swing dance (hence the title), which I am Photo by Izzi.T

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excited about as it’s a passion of both mine and my co-star David Fiske’s. We haven’t confirmed the venue yet, but it will be posted on our website. Do you ever get nervous before going on stage? If so, how do you deal with it? I get nervous, JUST before I go out for the opening number. Once I’m on stage and have sung/spoken a few lines then no, focus/adrenaline kick in and I go on autopilot. (Thank goodness!) Worst experience you’ve ever had on stage? I can’t remember one if I’m honest! Maybe my subconscious has blocked it from my memory! For the most part, things have gone smoothly. There was one instance a few years back... I started a song up an octave, but luckily fixed it after a line or two. That was a little embarrassing. And the best experience? That is an even harder question... there are great moments in every show. A look with someone in the audience or a connection with another character. It’s that connection that drives me and each time it’s different but equally wonderful. What are the biggest difficulties you face when planning a show here? Ugh! Well this time it has been getting a venue that fits with our show theme/ style and in general, budget. We want to keep upping the bar but that requires more financial backing and getting sponsorship is hard when the production is small. A lot of sponsors want to reach audiences of hundreds of people each night and that is just not our niche. We want to keep Vintage Nights intimate...so getting all the financial backing we need is hard. BUT, we shall persevere; we will get it. When you’re not busy performing, how do you like to spend your free time? When I am not working on Broadway Babe I sing at a few hotels including Riva Surya Hotel on Phra Athit Road (Thursday and Sunday) and The Plaza Athénée on Wireless Road (Friday and Saturday). I also teach musical theater twice a week after school at Bangkok Patana School and I am a freelance voice over artist/ TVC/film actress. When I am not working AT ALL, I am swing dancing, teaching myself how to play the guitar and deciding what other goals I want to pursue. For more info see www.broadwaybabeasia.com www.kristenevelynrossi.com

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Expat Women

Shopping|New products

LEVI’S LAUNCHES ECO-FRIENDLY JEANS ■ THE innovative designers at Levi’s have come up with a great way of recycling plastic bottles and food trays – by turning them into jeans! Called Levi’s Waste<Less, the innovative denim collection features products made with a minimum of 20 percent post-consumer recycled content, or, on average, eight 12 to 20-ounce bottles per jean. The colour of the bottles used adds a beautiful undertone to the denim fabric creating a unique finish in the final product. The women’s range includes Levi’s® Boyfriend Skinny jeans and Skinny jeans. Available in Levi’s stores nationwide. www.levisthailand.com www.facebook.com/levis

UNDERWEAR UPDATE ■ THAI fashion brand Asava has teamed up with lingerie maker Kyra to create a new range of underwear that offers plenty of class and style and a super comfortable fit. Called ‘Asava for Kyra,’ the collection is inspired by the fashion capitals of Paris, Tokyo, New York and London, and is divided into these four categories. Imagining the cities as unique women with different needs and styles, the collection has something for everyone, whatever their size and shape. In short, it’s sexy, sassy and modern, and a great addition to any underwear draw.

Talking

Shop Hot products and stores demanding your attention

MAKE A STATEMENT ■ TEN year’s into his collaboration with

adidas Originals, eccentric fashion designer Jeremy Scott has proved once again that, when it comes to making unique and inventive clothing and footwear, he’s definitely the man to go to. His Fall/Winter 2013 Collection riffs on pop culture from the past to the present and plays with bright prints, unexpected shapes, surreal designs, and, on the footwear, his famous JS Detachable Wings. To really make a statement on the streets, slip on a pair of the punk-inspired JS Wings Opart (B7,290) or the JS Wings Wedge Hi (B9,290), and finish off the look with the Opart TR Dress (B7,990). Snazzy. www.adidas.co.th

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THINK PINK WITH HARD ROCK ■ HELP raise funds for breast cancer

charities this month by paying a visit to the Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok. As part of the brand’s annual Pinktober program, the Bangkok branch will host a series of special events in aid of local breast cancer foundations. What’s more, a special range of fundraising merchandise will be on offer, including a collector’s edition pin (B590), Pink T-shirt (B1,300), Pink bracelet (B900), Pink scarf (B900) and more. All products will be sold exclusively at Hard Rock Cafe. Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok, Siam Square Soi11 Tel: 02 658 4090-3 www.facebook.com/ hardrockbangkok

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Expat Women

School Report / News

Family Fun Fair with Operation Smile

OPERATION Smile will celebrate Universal Children’s Day on November 16 by hosting its first ever Family Fun Fair. Held at The British Club Bangkok (Silom Soi 18) from 11am-5pm, the event will feature games and activities, fun performances, and lots of food and drinks. Entry is B50 and all proceeds will go towards Operation Smile. For more info contact annie.Hansen@standrews-schools.com

SuperCity Pre-School now open

RIS set to turn 60 in style

RUAMRUDEE International School (RIS) will celebrate its 60th anniversary on Sat Dec 7 with a glittering gala dinner at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Held in honour of Fr. Travis and his six decades of devotion to the RIS community, the event will bring together star pupils past and present for a night of fine dining and entertainment. Tickets are B5,000. Donation packages for RIS’s Fr. Travis Endowment Fund are also available. For more info contact sasiwimonc@rism.ac.th

IPN EVENT

SIAM Singapore International School (SSIS), Bangkok’s newest tri-lingual International school offering a full English language program using the Singapore curriculum, has now opened its SuperCity Pre-School. Designed from thoroughly researched early childhood development concepts and brought to life right inside the school, this theme-based interactive play-zone enables students to creatively absorb information while discovering the world around them. Centered upon the self-guided interests of the children, SuperCity Pre-School teaches the principles of respect, responsibility, and community through exploration and discovery in a supportive and enriching environment. www.siamsingapore.com

IN celebration of its sixth anniversary, Prinncipal IELTS Institute in Bangkok is now offering full scholarships for courses that prepare prospective Thai IELTS candidates for the rigors of the IELTS test. Otherwise known as the “International English Language Testing System,” the IELTS is used to determine a person’s ability to read, write and speak English. It also establishes a person’s ability to listen to the spoken language. The test is owned by the British Council, IDP: Australia and University of Cambridge ESOL Examinations, and over the last decade it has become the de facto English language testing standard for people wishing to study and work abroad. For more info about the scholarships and available courses visit www.ieltsthai.com

“How to raise healthy kids in a weight-obsessed world” THE International Parenting Network returns this month on Oct 29 with an event focused on eating disorders and how to spot them in children. Guest speaker Dr. Anuttara Pothikamjorn from Bumrungrad International Hospital will discuss the factors that trigger eating disorders in children, strategies for preventing eating disorders in children, and how to cultivate healthy attitudes

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Scholarships up for grabs at Prinncipal

about food, body and exercise with children. Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand (FCCT), The Penthouse, Maneeya Centre, Ploenchit Road (BTS Chidlom). 6.30pm-8.30pm. Free for IPN cardmembers and B550 for nonmembers (includes presentation, handouts, dinner, soft drinks, juices and wine). Tel: 081 826 2399 RSVP: ipn@ipnthailand.com

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Expat Women

School Promotion|Harrow

Talented twins shine at Harrow School celebrates as three pairs of twins achieve top grades ■ TWIN power came to the fore at Harrow International School recently when three pairs of twins each achieved exceptional results in their exams. Twin sisters Vanessa and Kayleigh, who joined Harrow Bangkok two years ago, did brilliantly in their IGCSE examinations with Kayleigh achieving seven A*s, an A and a B grade in a broad range of subjects, whilst Vanessa’s efforts were rewarded with seven A*s and two As. What’s more, the sisters’ success has not just been limited to academics. During their time at the school they have both been actively involved in the wide range of House and extra curricular (Leadership in Action) events that take place each year, allowing them to broaden their experiences, develop their talents and grow as young adults. “I love how Harrow is like a big family, not just with your friends but also in the way teachers treat you,” says Kayleigh, who plans to study law at University in the US. “They all truly want the best for you and are willing to put in 100% to make sure you achieve what you’re capable of doing.” Vanessa shares the same sentiments, adding: “I love the wide range of activities and House events which create the true Harrow Spirit. I also feel like my teachers are always ready to answer all my questions about lessons and always make sure students fully understand everything that’s taught.” Twin brothers Smile and Smart, Kayleigh and Vanessa

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Another set of graduating twins are Gift and Guy. They arrived at Harrow Bangkok in April 1999 when they were dropped off, no doubt nervous, on their first day in Kindergarten. Since then they have witnessed many changes and, from House Camps and expeditions to community trips and Model United Nations Conferences, both of them have enjoyed a multitude of experiences designed to prepare them for leaving the Harrow nest. Gift studied Chemistry, Physics, Mathematics and Further Mathematics for A-Level and achieved the impressive feat of an A* in each of her subjects. She has recently joined Imperial College, London to study Chemical Engineering.

Guy and Gift

meanwhile, recently graduated having completed their A-Levels and are both now studying Mechanical Engineering at Imperial College London. The brothers joined Harrow Bangkok as Sports Scholars in Year 9 and were very active within Suriyothai House, with Smile being Sports Captain and Smart, House Captain. Their passion for their House is clearly evident, with Smart saying “the House System is really great. It gives each student the opportunity to be a leader, to be a follower, and to interact with people from different year groups.” Smile says the kind, supportive nature of the teachers is another great element of the school, adding: “If you have a passion in something, say sports or drama, the teachers here will give their full support and help you in any way they can. They are really great at what they do.”

Smart and Smile

Her brother, Guy, also achieved A*’s in each of his four A-Level subjects but he has chosen a very different career path and has just joined King’s College London to start a Medicine course, an apt place to study given that he will do much of his training at Guy’s Hospital, near London Bridge. Both Guy and Gift were in Byron House, named after the famous British poet and Old Harrovian, Lord Byron, so perhaps it is appropriate to end on a line from what many consider to be his greatest work, Don Juan: “All who joy would win must share it. Happiness was born a twin.” For more info about the school see www.harrowschool.ac.th

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Expat Women

Bumrungrad|Living in Bangkok

Another great year for Living in Bangkok â– EXPATS new and old were out in force for the 2013 edition of the popular annual Living in Bangkok event, which was held at Bumrungrad International Hospital on Sept 7. Specially designed to help expats settle in and make the most of their time here, the event once again brought together organizations, resources and people who help make living in Bangkok a more fulfilling experience for expats and their families. A wide range of entertainment was on offer too, including special performances by students from local international schools and community groups.

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights NIGHTFALL OVER BANGKOK

Dear reader, Welcome to ‘Monsoon Midnights’, a brand new series of stories by the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group. The story tellers of the BWWG come from all over the world but they all have a special place in this city, somewhere surprising, obscure and unexpected, as yet undiscovered. Follow us to these hidden places right here, month after month.

There are some very high places in Bangkok. Places where you can look out and see the city laid out like an interactive map beneath you. I look at the darkening sky above. Tonight, the moon is very pale. It struggles to come out from the clouds, and then immediately hides again behind a thin, half transparent mist like an old-fashioned lady’s face veil. And like the gentlemen of the time, I can’t look away. Capricious. Yes, I get it. The play between veil and face is intriguing, the ash grey light seems refined and delicate. So wan and delicate that I almost don’t see it: a slim slant of moonlight falls onto my hands. I try to catch it although I know I never will. It’s part of the play, I think. We respond, she withdraws...But when I look again I see that this is not just moonlight. A thin, sepia coloured piece of paper barely touches my fingers. I can see it is fragile, if I close my hand I might crush it. So I don’t. It floats away with the next breeze. So I have to follow. The moon comes out again, showing her face more fully to me. I take it as encouragement. The delicate sheet of paper flutters in the wind, always just a little beyond my grasp as I run after it, down the dangerous streets with their many potholes and loose pavement tiles. I slip, I stumble, I catch myself before I fall. But not the paper, oh no, it is always a few steps ahead of me and my hopeful fingers. So, slowly, at a faltering human’s pace, we dance our way through the city. I can’t really spare a lot of attention for the scenery, I have to keep my eyes fixed on my papery guide. So I only realize where we are when it slowly, elegantly floats to the ground, just in front of a beautiful building in a rare, historic, European style.

Monsoon Midnights

Special places in Bangkok, as experienced by the Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group

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Tonight’s story teller, Tracey Martin, is somewhere inside that building. The fragile paper shakes itself a bit, maybe to get rid of the city dust, and slips underneath the door. But what about me? I can’t follow there... The moon casts a silvery shadow over me. Once again, I take it as encouragement. Maybe, in the light of that pale moon, I can...

I

A Night at the Librar y...........By Tracey Martin It was easy. I just hid in the toilet. Nowadays most people use the modern toilets outside but those of us who have been coming for a long time know there’s one in the library itself, near the children’s section. It’s the original one, the one the ladies in their inappropriate clothes must have used when they needed to freshen up and dab the sweat from their faces in the days when the library first opened. My bare legs and flimsy skirt would have shocked them terribly. But I wanted to look my best. This Saturday the fine building with its Italian-style cupola and old wooden floors was hosting a children’s event. It was easy to put my shoes in my bag instead of outside the door and slip in towards the end of the day without the staff noticing. I found a place to sit near the little drawers that hold the index cards with the titles and authors on them. I love to flick through the typed and handwritten cards imagining the women of The Bangkok Women’s Library Association wiping away their sweat as they neatly wrote the cards with the old wood and rattan ceiling fans whirring above them. The library has air conditioning now and there’s no doubt that makes it a lot more comfortable to sit and read in. But I would have loved to be here back then. Life must have been so glamorous. To stay inside after the library closed, I had to time it right. I went to the toilet twice. Once just after the children had gone while the staff were tidying up. Then again just as they are closing up. I was afraid one of them would try the door so I left it unlocked but closed and positioned myself where I wouldn’t be seen if they peeked in. I heard the staff saying their goodbyes, speaking more loudly than they do when the library is open. The airconditioning juddered to a halt and the bar of light shining under the door disappeared. Then I took my torch out of my bag, opened the door and stepped out. The torch flung shadows up on to the books and walls. The place felt quite different to how it does in daytime, books seemed to shuffle on their shelves, floorboards creaked and groaned. I hesitated for a moment, felt my skin prickle, then took a deep breath and walked towards the

book that brought me here. I knew where it was, on the top shelf on the right-hand side in the biography section, third from the end. I lifted it down. It was written in 1950, the memoirs of a man who spent 40 years in Bangkok working for a company that traded in rubber. The last time it was taken out was ten years ago but I guess it’s kept because of its connection with the library. The author’s wife was a member of the Library Association. I opened it at the pages of photographs in the middle and turned to the fourth page. It was here that two weeks ago I found a slip of paper, crisp with age. On it, in copperplate handwriting of a kind not taught in schools for many decades, were the words ‘Come to me at the full moon.’ Even in the air-conditioning I’d broken out into a sweat on seeing those words. They seemed meant for me. I looked at the photograph on the page. It showed a young Thai man, dressed in Western clothes and wearing a straw boater, standing in front of the library. But what struck me most was his look. There was no mistaking this look, though I’d not seen it directed at me for many years. It was love. There was longing in his eyes, there was passion. And he was looking at me. The caption said ‘Young Thai nobleman, outside the Neilson Hays library, c. 1925.’ I read the brief note again. Who had written it? How long had it been in the book? Then I looked again at the young man. His eyes burned into mine. I was mesmerised. My heart beat faster. Several times over the next few weeks I returned to the book, and each time the note was still there. There was no doubt about it. The man wanted me. And, mad though it now seems to have a passion for a man who must have been dead for many years, I realised I wanted him. The note and the location of the photograph seemed to mean only one thing. So I laid my plans. But now, alone at night in the library, when I opened the book again, the note was no longer there. I was sure I’d slipped it back between the same pages the last time I had looked, but it was gone. I flipped through the pages but there was nothing. I turned back to the photo of the young man. The torch made his eyes blaze even more and it seemed to me his smile was wider. ‘Where are you?’ I said out loud, talking to the man in the photograph. ‘What do you want with me?’ There was no answer. I continued to stare into the man’s eyes, waiting for something to happen. The silence was like the sound of paper rustling. Then suddenly, a different noise. The door at the old entrance, the one that isn’t used anymore, was opened. A ray of

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

T

he Bangkok Women’s Writers Group, led by Anette Pollner, founded in 2001, is where creative women from all over the world meet to workshop their writing in a supportive and inspiring environment. Many of our members are published and prize winning authors, but we are open to all women who are passionate about writing, including complete beginners. The BWWG has published a Thai English language bestseller, ‘Bangkok Blondes’ and various pamphlets. We regularly give readings around town and have been part of international festivals and cultural exchanges. Please contact bkk_writers@yahoo.com for more information. This month’s story teller is Tracey Martin, who works for international development organisations and is mostly a poet. Her poems have been published in Aesthetica, Poetry Life, and Poetry Society News. Tracey has lived in Thailand for 20 years. She translates Thai poets and leads workshops on “Poetry in Thai” at the London Poetry Translation Centre.

moonlight slipped across the floor and then disappeared again as the door closed. I sat up and leaned forward towards the gap where I was sure the man I’d been waiting for would appear. But before I could call out to him, someone else spoke. ‘Arun?’ It was a woman’s voice, whispering. She was breathing heavily as though she had been running. ‘Arun, are you there?’ I was confused. Where was the man? And what was this woman doing here in the middle of the night? ‘Bessie,’ said a man’s voice, stressing the last syllable of the word and giving it a falling tone in the Thai way. It seemed to come from behind me. I turned round, pointing my torch towards the bookcase. Nothing, only the books, rows and rows of them. But I knew it was the voice of the man in the picture. ‘Arun!’ cried the woman. ‘Is it you at last, after all these years?’ She began to weep. I couldn’t see her. My view of the door was obscured by a bookcase. But I could hear her skirt swishing against her legs and the click of her shoes on the floor. I stared at the gap where I was sure she would appear. I wanted to move but I couldn’t. My limbs were heavy. I felt as though I was glued to the chair. And it seemed to me I felt Arun’s breath on my neck. I heard footsteps, right next to me. Someone was moving towards the woman. Then from behind the bookcase I heard a sigh and what was, unmistakably, a kiss, a long kiss. I wanted to shout ‘No!’ but my voice didn’t seem to be working. I felt a terrible jealousy. Arun was mine. I had found him after all these years, I had done what he asked and for what? So that he could meet some other woman? I pulled myself up from the chair and walked slowly towards the gap between the bookcases and now I could see the two figures locked together in the dark. I swung my torch so that it shone into their faces. There was a terrible scream and I saw to my horror that the woman’s face was very, very old. But the man’s face was still young and beautiful. And his expression now was one of shock as he looked from me to the woman in his arms. ‘Why didn’t you come?’ she wept. ‘Didn’t you get my note? I would have left him. We could have gone away together. I waited for you but you never came.’ As she spoke both of them became transparent until all that was left was the weeping that went on and on. I ran back to the

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table and put my hands over my ears, willing it to stop. When I woke up the sun was already shining through the high windows. My cheek was pressed against the old varnished wood of the table. I lifted my head and saw the book, closed now, lying there, close to my head. I opened it. I turned to the list of photographs, then skimmed the preface and then finally, I found what I was looking for. In the acknowledgements the author thanked Elizabeth Smythe ‘for allowing her to use the photographs taken by her mother, Bessie Smythe, who had enjoyed many happy years in Bangkok in the ’20s. I hid round the corner when the cleaners arrived, then slipped out quickly as they headed to the bathroom to fill their buckets. But I was back in the library later that day. ‘Can you tell me anything about a woman called Bessie Smythe?’ I asked the librarian, ‘She had something to do with the library I think, in 1925.’ My request didn’t seem to surprise her at all. She went into the back room and returned with a book of old photographs of the library committee over the years. In the one for 1925, six ladies were seated in front of the library squinting into the sunlight. We looked at the names listed below and there she was, second second from the right, Mrs Elizabeth (Bessie) Smythe. She had a beautiful ‘English rose’ face and from her eyes and the smile playing playing across her mouth I knew without a shadow of doubt that she she was in love with the person taking the photograph. And I knew, even before I looked at the photo credit below, that the name of the photographer was Arun. ‘Is that what you were looking for?’ asked the librarian. Then she started, seeing the expression on my face. ‘Madam,’ she said, grasping my arm. ‘Are you all right?’

M

There are dark, mysterious places in this city, and they all have their own story. Bangkok is a place where past and future merge, where relationships are complex and obscure, where people appear and disappear. The moon has almost set when I leave the library, and the night is waning. Still, it guides me on my way. I will see this moon again next month, when I visit the next storyteller, waiting for me already, somewhere, in an undiscovered corner of the city. Let me take you on that journey!

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Expat Women

Health|Dieting

Weight loss blunders

(part one)

Judith Coulson, Executive Director of BKK-Health. com, on diet pitfalls and how to avoid them ■ SIMPLE diet mistakes can derail your best efforts to get back into that favourite pair of jeans or dress. If the scale seems stuck, or your weight drops off only to bounce back up again, there is a chance you could be making one of these weight loss blunders. 1. Problem: Relying on Crash Diets Determined to lose pounds fast, you turn to a crash diet. Perhaps your plan calls for nothing but pineapple or cabbage soup each day. You slash your daily calories far below your daily metabolic needs and sure enough, some pounds melt away. But when you eat so few calories, you train your metabolism to slow down. Once the diet is over, you have a body that burns calories more slowly, which increases the chance you will regain the weight you lost in the beginning, and likely additional pounds. Tip: Simply eat more vegetables and some fruit The best ‘diet’ is one where you get to eat more food, not less. If you eat more vegetables and some fruits, you should not feel as hungry, because these nutrient-rich foods are high in fibre and water, which can give you a feeling of fullness. Snacking can be a good thing as long as you choose smart snacks. Fibre aids digestion, prevents constipation, and lowers cholesterol, and can help with weight loss. Good fibre sources include oatmeal, flaxseeds, sesame seeds, nuts, beans, whole grain foods, and a variety of fruits and vegetables Extra tip: Spice it up. Add spices or chilies to your food for a flavour boost that can help you feel satisfied. Food that is loaded with flavour will stimulate your taste buds and be more satisfying, so you will not eat as much.

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2. Problem: Drinking Too Little Water This is one of the simplest diet blunders to fix. Water is essential for burning calories. If you let yourself get dehydrated, your metabolism drags, which leads to a slower weight loss. Research suggests that adults who drink ten and more glasses of water per day burn more calories than those who drink less. So try adding a glass of water to every meal and snack. Tip: Water against craving Before you tear into that bag of potato chips, drink a glass of water first. People sometimes confuse thirst with hunger, and end up eating extra calories when an ice-cold glass of water is really all that was needed. If plain water does not appeal to you, try drinking sparkling water flavoured with a slice of lemon, or a cup of fruit-infused herbal tea. 3. Problem: Skipping Breakfast Skipping breakfast seems like a simple way to cut calories, but the result can be increased hunger throughout the rest of the day. This may lead to unplanned snacking at the office and eating a supersized portion at lunch. But breakfasts that are balanced and high in fibre can reduce hunger throughout the day. In fact, studies show that people who eat breakfast every morning eat fewer calories during the day.

4. Problem: Losing Track of Your Snacks Maybe you count calories meticulously at every meal, but what about all those nibbles in between? There is the bag of pretzels at your desk, the little slice of cake at an office party, and the taste of your child’s ice cream cone. All of this mindless munching adds up, and could sabotage an otherwise well-planned diet. Tip: Keep a food diary. A simple pen and paper can dramatically boost your weight loss. Studies show the act of writing down what you eat and drink tends to make you more aware of what, when, and how much you are consuming. This awareness can ultimately lead you to consume fewer calories. One study found that people who kept a food diary six days a week lost about twice as much as those who only kept a diary one day a week or less. Read Weight Loss Blunders (part two) in next month’s BigChilli. Contact Judith@bkk-health.com for further information how to create a balanced diet plan. Judith Coulson is a Medical & Lifestyle Nutrition Coach available for private coaching sessions and corporate wellness workshops.

TheBigChilli

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Expat Women

Ask the experts

Advice|Problems solved

Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Expat life getting you down? Don’t suffer in silence. Send in your Bor ed of being problems and get advice from a househu sba nd professional counsellors I MOVED to Bangkok last summer when my wife got an excellent Anette and Johanna job opportunity here. We decided that I would quit my job and

would become the primary caretaker of our two children. We have two maids: one for cleaning and one to take care of the children. But after three months I am just wondering ‘what on earth am I doing here.’ The days are long and boring. At the pre-school I see only women, who chat with each other and go shopping. I feel I made a huge mistake by leaving my job (and perhaps my future career) and following my wife. She has to work long hours and regularly goes on business trips which take her away for up to a week. She is very happy in her job, feels great, and seems to be on top of things. But I am beginning to feel down more and more; I’m losing my confidence and my ‘happy self.’ I feel bored and even the things I used to like don’t appeal to me anymore. I just feel tired and very annoyed with this stupid overcrowded and unorganized city. What is happening? I told my wife how unhappy I feel but she brushes it off and tells me “we have all we want” and says she is not going to let this golden opportunity go. She tells me to adapt and suggest that I develop my skills in photography and art instead of moping. She even says that if I decide to go back, she will manage her life with the children here in Bangkok. But I don’t want to separate; I want to be with her and my family. What can I do to have her change her mind? Hugo, 42, from France Dear Hugo,

■ What you describe is classic culture shock. You are experiencing a lot of changes and loss. Although you and your wife decided this move together, you could never have imagined the consequences it would have. Here is a list of your losses: 1. Your job, which gave you a position and a certain routine 2. Your culture 3. Your privacy and freedom (now two maids have taken over the responsibilities at home) 4. Your family time as your wife has a demanding job. Moving to another culture can bring stress and even a sense of grieving. This can result in feelings of depression. Depression takes away our creativity, energy

and joy. I think one way to help yourself is to be honest and acknowledge that this transition is hard for you. You ask me how you can change your wife’s mind, but, of course I have to say: “You cannot change someone else.” If you want to change your situation you have to start with yourself. Write down your options. All of them, even those that seem ridiculous. Then make two columns: good things in your life right now, and not so good ones. Then ask yourself if there is anything you would like to do that you never had the time for when you were working. I think you need to find a way to meet other men. You could join a club (sport, theatre, music etc.) or develop a hobby. Many groups are on the internet and in the Bangkok Guide. You could start to initiate more family time and, remember, you decide how you want to organize your family life (not the maids). I am thinking of family meals, bed times for the kids, who tucks them in, what games to play, the daily routine. You can also plan special activities like a movie evening at home, crafts, excursions etc. When your wife is home invite her to join. If she shows no interest then it is time to talk together about your shared vision for your family. When you do nothing but complain about Bangkok, she will brush you aside and will see you as a threat to her career (and possibly jealous of her!). But when you actually start to enjoy parts of your life here (let her know!) she may start to realize what she is sacrificing by making work such a priority. Together you can then look into time management and how to enjoy your life as a couple and as a family.

• Johanna DeKoning MS is the Clinical Director of NCS Counseling Center. She trained in the Netherlands and Australia.

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S ick and t ire d of ‘ backst a bbing’ v olunt e ers WHEN I came to Bangkok as a ‘trailing wife,’ I thought: what an opportunity! I’m going to take two years to follow those interests that will never make me any money but will enrich my life. So I joined a large cultural organization (I won’t say which one!) and prepared to enter a world that I hoped (or perhaps even expected to be) very different from the corporate world. But I was disappointed. In fact, I am shocked. The work of the organization is beautiful and meaningful but it is run by a system of committees who seem to be working against each other, and many people seem to be positively spiteful. We are all volunteers and this is supposedly what we enjoy doing!

you want and are determined to create the right space for it. Luckily, Bangkok has many different groups and societies, and many different circles, some of them no doubt originating from a similar experience as yours. Rather than focus on your disappointment you could embark on a journey of discovery where you will meet many people and do many interesting things. Maybe you could even go a little outside your comfort zone and select more for the people than for the activity. That way, whatever happens, you will enrich your life!

My husband suggested that I may just have been unlucky, so I joined a few other clubs around town (social, cultural, arts), but unfortunately I found a similar atmosphere there. A lot of in-fighting and nasty gossip! I really don’t want to become nasty myself, so I don’t know what to do. I really have two questions: one, why is this happening? It makes no sense to me. Why are people fighting and making life difficult for each other? There are no livelihoods at stake...My other question is, obviously, what to do about it. I don’t want to ‘give up,’ but on the other hand, I don’t want to waste my time repeating destructive experiences ‘for free’ – I want to do something I love in a constructive, • Anette Pollner Adv. Dipl. Couns., is one perhaps even enjoyable environment! of seven international counsellors at NCS Bettina, 37, from Germany

Counseling Center in Saphan Kwai. She trained in London and the US and worked as a staff counsellor at Bart’s Hospital in London.

Dear Bettina,

■ You are asking two very good questions, and I’m sure other people have asked themselves these questions before (although not as publicly...). To your first question: although you are entering a different sphere of life, you are still working with the same kind of people you encountered elsewhere. It is a commonly held assumption that organisations in the arts and culture are somehow ‘softer’ and more pleasant than others. But that is not true. In fact, people sometimes have a tendency to fight even more when there is less at stake. For some people, it is now all about their own personal importance (even vanity sometimes), and because they don’t depend on it financially, they feel they don’t have to make any compromises. I suspect that many who join these clubs and societies are looking for self-development, just like you, but what they find is that they can’t escape the old

patterns of (mis-)communication and power play. Others are maybe a little unhappy with their situation here (recent retirees who find it difficult to adjust to a life without the recognition a profession can bring, people who are suddenly confronted with a new and unflattering perspective on their lives and relationships, people who have never held an office of influence in any organization and don’t know how to deal with it...and live out their frustration. I’m afraid you are seeing a darker side of expat life, and disappointment is one of its main features. To your second question: what to do about it? I think I would agree with your husband here: this is probably a game of numbers. After all, there are also great people in every walk of life, people who want what

Contact details: ncs-counseling.com, anette.p@ncs-counseling.com, Tel: 02 279 8503 Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com TheBigChilli

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Y O U R U L T I M A T E W H A T ’ S O N G U I D E F O R O C T O B E R 1 3

What’s on pArt pPerformance pSport pFootball pMovies & Albums pBooks

American rockers Matchbox Twenty are coming to town on Nov 6. Page 86.

Adam Green

Catch the American Antifolk music hero in an intimate acoustic gig Page 86

Fight Night

Operation Smile’s immensely popular fundraiser returns Page 88

MMA

Expect brutal showdowns galore in Dare’s latest outing Page 88 TheBigChilli 83

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What’s On|The Arts

Exhibitions

OCT 10 - NOV 9

NUMBER ONE GALLERY

ME MY MIND

THAI artist Mani Srisuwan delves deep into his subconscious in his latest series of paintings thought provoking and haunting works which see the artist wrestling with various emotions and desires. 919/1 The Silom Galleria Bld. Silom Road Soi 19. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm 02 630 3381

UNTIL OCT 24

LA LANTA FINE ART

YOUNG PROGRAMME 2013

ESTABLISHED to discover and promote the work of fledgling artists from countries in Asia, La Lanta Fine Art’s Young Programme returns this month with an exhibition featuring 22 works of art from five talented Thai artists, including: Sinit Sae Jia with his installations of found objects, lights and Japanese clay; Pitch Tangpun presenting a series of oil on brass plates, Wipoosana Supanakorn showcasing a series of abstract compositions on canvases; Aranya Khunchawattichai creating figurative paintings with references of human’s relationship with animals; and Jiratchaya Pripwai with her illusive and fluid drawings on paper. 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm ☎ 02 204 0583 lalanta.com UNTIL OCT 27

DOB HUALAMPHONG GALLERY

LIFE IN NATURE

THE beauty of nature is explored in vibrant fashion in this new exhibition featuring mixed-media prints by Jerawit Surtsit; silk screen prints by Joshua Parry; colourful woodcuts by Chaiya Wannalert; and refined woodcut prints by Surasak Sornsena. DOB Building 4F, 318 Rama 4 Rd. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (closed Mon) Tel: 02 422 2092 ardelgallery.com

UNTIL NOV 3

100 TONSON GALLERY

KARMA POLICE

YUREE Kensaku, one of Thailand’s most internationally recognized artists, is well known for the distinctive way in which she uses vivid colours and a diverse range of textures and materials to create her work, such as painting on trays, pans, TVs, and other household objects. Here she shares her experience of being cheated by a construction contractor, a situation which left her homeless, studio-less, and contemplating the laws of karma. 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm 02 684 1527 100tonsongallery.com

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UNTIL OCT 20

ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART

GLOBAL WARMING

FEATURING both realistic and surrealistic oil paintings and drawings, Lampu Kansanoh’s latest exhibition explores how the passage of time impacts on human behavior and leads to discrepancies between generations. Boromratchonnee Rd. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (Closed Mon). 02 422 2092 ardelgallery.com

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What’s On|Performance

Performance OCT 28

M THEATRE (NEW PETCHBURI RD.)

TOMMY EMMANUEL & MARTIN TAYLOR LIVE IN BANGKOK CATCH respected Australian guitarist Tommy Emmanuel, a two-time Grammy nominee, performing alongside multi award-winning guitarist and composer Martin Taylor in what’s sure to be a thoroughly entertaining show. Tickets range B1,000-B5,000 thaiticketmajor.com

NOV 6

VOICE SPACE

HYH MINI FESTIVAL

HAVE You Heard’s latest festival will bring together American dream pop band Wild Nothing, England’s indie pop outfit Veronica Falls, and Aussie rockers Last Dinosaurs, for a day of fun and music at Voice Space. facebook.com/ HaveYouHeard.Live

NOV 9

SECRET LOCATION

THE CRIBS

INDIE favourites The Cribs are flying in from the UK for a gig but, sssshhh, the venue’s a secret. To be in with a chance of snagging tickets and learning the location, hit: th.topman. com.

OCT 14

THAILAND CULTURAL CENTER

BANGKOK’S INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF DANCE AND MUSIC

THE 15th edition of this popular annual festival draws to a close on Oct 14 with a performance of Romeo and Juliet by ballet dancers from the Grand Theatre de Geneve. Tickets range B700-B2,500 thaiticketmajor.com

OCT 19

MONGKOL RCA STUDIO

ADAM GREEN: ACOUSTIC CONCERT

AMERICAN Anti-folk music hero Adam Green, best known as one half of The Moldy Peaches, is coming to wow music lovers with his witty lyrics and acoustic guitar talents in an intimate gig at Mongkol RCA Studio. Support from Wednesday and Part Time Musicians Tickets: B950 on door (incl. one drink) supersweetlive.com Doors open 8pm.

NOV 6

IMPACT ARENA

MATCHBOX TWENTY

RECENTLY reformed after a 10-year hiatus, the American rockers are coming to town to perform back-catalogue hits such as Push, 3 AM, and Back 2 Good, as well as new hit singles She’s So Mean and Overjoyed. Tickets range B1,500-B3,500 thaiticketmajor.com

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• The Magic of The Musicals: Catch The New Broadway Company performing songs from great musicals in the St. Regis Hotel Bangkok’s Lobby Lounge (Oct 11, The Mikado; Oct 18, My Fair Lady; Oct 25; The Phantom Of The Opera). 8pm-10pm. B1,650 www.stregis.com • The 3rd Tango Fiesta: Enjoy Tango performances, dance workshops and more at Dream Hotel Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15, on Oct 27 from 6pm-midnight. B750 (incl. one drink). Tel: 02 254 8500 or email: info@dreambkk.com • The Rocky Horror Show: Get ready to do the Time Warp again at Checkinn99 (Sukhumvit Rd. between sois 5 and 7). From Oct 30-Nov 2, a full cast will perform an adapted version of Richard O’Brien’s classic show – a great party is guaranteed. Tickets: B1,200, or B2,000 with dinner and three drinks. www.checkinn99bkk.com • No Holds Bard: Shakespeare on a Shoestring: Bangkok Community Theatre presents an evening of Shakespeare-themed skits, sketches, scenes and songs aimed to appeal to both Shakespeare fans and the Shakespeare-phobic. Nov 8 and 9 at The British Club, Silom Soi 18. B500 (incl. food and a drink). www.bct-th.org

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What’s On|Outdoors

Sport OCT 12

CLUB INSANITY (SUKHUMVIT SOI 12)

DARE: REBELS OF MMA

DARE returns this month with an International Mixed Martial Arts (MMA) event with a total of seven high-octane full-contact fights. Warm-up party starts at 4pm, doors open at 5pm, and fights start at 6pm. Why did Dare bring the event back? “Because seeing guys getting kicked in the face rocks!” Tickets range B2,000-B5,000 darefightsports.com

OCT 29 – NOV 3

KARON BEACH, PHUKET

FIVB PHUKET OPEN

NOW in its eighth annual outing, this women’s FIVB Beach Volleyball event is expected to bring together the top six teams in the world rankings, including world No. 1 team, Taiana Lima and Talita Antunes from Brazil; world No. 2 team, Katrin Holtwick and Ilka Semmler from Germany; and world No. 3 team, sisters Marie Clara and Carol Salgado from Brazil. Admission is free tourismthailand.org

OCT 17

DUSIT THANI BANGKOK

OPERATION SMILE FIGHT NIGHT

OPERATION Smile Thailand’s annual White Collar Benefit Fundraiser will once again see several well-known expats get in the ring to box each other in the aid of charity. Free-flow drinks, gourmet food, and live entertainment add to the fun. Tickets range B3,300 per person to B41,000 for a ringside table of 10. Proceeds to benefit Operation Smile Thailand 09 2774 9327 operationsmile.or.th

OCT 27

RAYONG

PTT GROUP MARATHON

STARTING and finishing at Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn Herb Garden Rayong (Suan Samoon Prai), the 7th edition of this popular annual event will offer a choice of Marathon, Half Marathon, Mini Marathon, or Fun Run and Walk. goadventureasia.com

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OCT 19

BANGKOK

AMARI WATERGATE & BMW THAILAND CHARITY MIDNIGHT RUN

HELP raise money for Chalerm Prakiat HRH Princess Sirindhorn School, and Baan Gerda, a children’s village project in Lopburi, by taking to the streets at midnight to compete in this popular annual run. Split between 6km and 12km distances (along Petchburi and Sukhumvit Roads), the run gives participants the chance to win airline tickets, hotel stays, and more great prizes in the grand raffle. goadventureasia.com

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What’s On|Screen And Stereo

Movies & music

NOV 7

ACTION/ADVENTURE

THOR 2: THE DARK WORLD

FORGET aliens in Manhattan. Thor’s eagerly awaited return to the big screen will see him embark on his most perilous and personal journey yet — one that will reunite him with Jane Foster and then force him to sacrifice everything to save us all.

OCT 31

ACTION/SCI-FI

ENDER’S GAME

OCT 17

ACTION/THRILLER

ESCAPE PLAN

RAY Breslin (Sylvester Stallone) is the world’s foremost authority on structural security; he has analyzed top high security prisons and equipped them with everything they need to stop prisoners from escaping. It’s a huge blow, then, when he finds himself wrongly imprisoned in the world’s most fortified prison where, along with fellow inmate Emil Rottmayer (Arnold Schwarzenegger), he must beat his own ingenious protocols to escape.

OCT 23

COMEDY

THE KINGS OF SUMMER

A RUNAWAY success at the 2013 Sundance Film Festival, this coming-of-age comedy centers on three teenage friends who, in the ultimate act of independence, decide to spend their summer building a house in the woods and living off the land. Free from parents’ clutches, their summer quickly becomes a test of friendship as each boy learns to appreciate the fact that family is something you can’t always run away from.

Movie screenings are subject to change. Keep up to date at movieseer.com

MEMORY LANE

NEW MUSIC INNOCENTS

NEW

(Release date: Oct 1)

(Release date: Oct 15)

MOBY

FADE AWAY

(Release date: Oct 7)

(Release date: Oct 22)

BEST COAST

BANGERZ

PRISM

(Release date: Oct 8)

(Release date: Oct 22)

MILEY CYRUS

KATY PERRY

SPLINTER

REFLEKTOR

(Release date: Oct 15)

(Release date: Oct 29)

GARY NUMAN

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PAUL MCCARTNEY

DYNAMICS

HOLY GHOST!

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IN the near future, a hostile alien race called the Formics has attacked Earth. If not for the legendary heroics of International Fleet Commander Mazer Rackham (Ben Kingsley), all would have been lost. In preparation for the next attack, the highly esteemed Colonel Hyrum Graff (Harrison Ford) and the International Military are training only the best children and find the next Mazer — and that’s when they find Ender Wiggin (Asa Butterfield), a shy, but strategically brilliant boy who they pull out of school to join the elite. But does he really have what it takes to save planet earth?

ARCADE FIRE

TOPPING THE UK CHARTS OCTOBER 1983

1. Billy Joel—Uptown Girl 2. Paul McCartney & Michael Jackson—Say Say Say 3. Lionel Richie—All Night Long (All Night) 4. Duran Duran—Union Of The Snake 5. Siouxsie & The Banshees— Dear Prudence 6. Adam Ant—Puss ‘N Boots 7. Men Without Hats— The Safety Dance 8. Rocksteady Crew— (Hey You) The Rocksteady Crew 9. Cure—The Love Cats 10. UB40—Please Don’t Make Me Cry

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Send your jokes to thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Jokes Just for fun

Entertainment|Humour

APPETITE FOR DESTRUCTION

LAST night I was sitting on the sofa watching TV when I heard my wife’s voice from the kitchen, “What do you feel like for dinner my love…chicken, beef or lamb?” I said: “Chicken, please.” She replied: “You’re having soup you fat b*****d, I was talking to the cat!”

JO OF TKE MO HE NTH

GIVE US FIVE, TIM VINE

1. I’ve just been on a once-in-alifetime holiday. I’ll tell you what, never again. 2. You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windscreen, it said ‘Parking Fine’. So that was nice. 3. I took part in the sun tanning Olympics – I just got Bronze. 4. Last night me and my girlfriend watched three DVDs back to back. Luckily I was the one facing the telly. 5. I don’t like my hands. I always keep them at arm’s length.

HTS THOUG E H OF T MONTH

1. This bloke told me he once got his dog to retrieve a stick from 100 miles away. I said, that’s a bit far-fetched. 2. I asked the hotel receptionist for a wake-up call. The next morning, the phone rang and a voice said, “What are you doing with your life?” 3. I never know whether to be angry or impressed when I can’t get the lid off a tube of superglue. 4. During my round the world trip recently, I was asked how I’d made it from Turkey to Afghanistan so fast. Easy – Iran. 5. The shampoo and conditioner trade must be absolutely booming these days. Every time I ask a girl out, she’s washing her hair.

LIGHT HUMOUR

A DOCTOR is making the rounds of a mental home when he comes across a room with two new patients in it. One patient is sawing an imaginary plank in half while the other is hanging from a roof beam. “What’s your friend doing up there?” asks the doctor. “He thinks he’s a light bulb,” replies the patient. “Shouldn’t you get him down?” says the doctor. “He might hurt himself.” “What?” replies the patient. “And work in the dark?”

SHE SHOOTS, SHE SCORES

A MAN and wife are at a volleyball game when they notice a very affectionate couple who are running their hands over each other passionately. “I don’t know whether to watch them or the game,” says the man. “Watch them!” says his wife. “You already know how to play volleyball.”

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Social  Last month’s best events in pictures

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Chandon’s Backyard Party CHANDON and Roof Hideaway at Muse, Thonglor Soi 10, held a chilled-out “Backyard Party” to mark the official launch of the new Limited Edition Chandon Brut, which is being imported into the kingdom by Diageo Moët Hennessy (Thailand).

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Spoofers after 25 years

THE 25th anniversary of the Bangkok Gentlemen Spoofers was marked in suitable style with a gathering of old and new members for a special championship on the lawn of the British Club. Four members of the original spoof, also held at the British Club, joined the event – Jim Howard, Vince Swift, Andrew McDowell and Colin Hastings. Organising the anniversary was Co-chairman of the BGS, veteran spoofer Walter Kreutzner.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

The Taboo Experience BASH nightclub was packed with revelers having a great time when Taboo, one of the founding members of the Black Eyed Peas, took control of the decks for a night of dance floor filling tunes. Photography by David Heischrek.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

THE KIWI IS BORN THE Kiwi Sports Pub & Grill on Sukhumvit Soi 8 celebrated its grand opening with an open bar and free barbecued eats. Located in the premises which formerly housed Soi 8 Pub, The Kiwi is now open seven days a week offering an extensive selection of grilled meats (and other international cuisine) plus a good choice of imported beers.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Sillyfools rock Mulligans ROCK music fans were given an auditory treat at Mulligans Irish Pub, Khao San Road, when Thai indie favourites Sillyfools took to the stage for a special performance.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

LUXURIOUS LAUNCH FOR MAYA

MAYA Restaurant and Bar on level 29, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, celebrated its grand opening with an exclusive party attended by celebrities, models, and business luminaries who were treated to a selection of the restaurant’s North-Indian cuisine and innovative cocktails, as well as a live performance by New Delhi rap artist and singer Heaven Khalifa. For more info about the restaurant see www.mayathailand.com

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

SPECTACULAR OPENING FOR HEAVEN PARTIES in Bangkok don’t come much bigger than the amazing event put on last month by Dining Zensations Limited and ZEN Lifestyle Trend Megastore, which celebrated the launch of the group’s new rooftop bar, Heaven, by hosting a huge party at all four of its upscale dining and entertainment venues – ZENSE Gourmet Deck & Lounge Panorama, Shintori Japanese Art Cuisine & Sake Bar, HORIZONS International Tapas Cuisine & Bar, and HEAVEN-on-ZEN.

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Movers & Shakers at Muse MOVERS & Shakers is well known for holding its monthly corporate networking events at trendy venues and the bar was raised yet again last month when it headed to Hotel Muse, bringing together over 180 people for a night of food, drinks, and contacts-swapping fun at Su Tha Ros Thai restaurant. The event was sponsored by Kingdom Property.

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Pathumwan Princess turns 17 PATHUMWAN Princess Hotel marked its 17th anniversary by hosting a cocktail reception to open “The Gallery of Wishes” – a multi-media display of wishes by local and international celebrities, singers and movie stars. The display was opened at the event by Arthorn Vanasantakul, Deputy Managing Director for Finance and Administration; and Supanit Vimooktanon, Deputy Managing Director for Operations and Marketing of MBK Hotels and Tourism Co., Ltd.

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Roaring start for Red Tiger

FREE flow beers, tasty pub snacks, live entertainment, and a pool showcase by Jimmy White were just four of the factors that went into creating a superb party atmosphere at The Red Tiger’s opening night. Tucked away on Sukhumvit Soi 20, just a short walk from Asok BTS and Sukhumvit MRT stations, the pub boasts nine premium draught beers, such as IPA and Speckled Hen. For more info see www.theredtigerbangkok.com.

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A night of wine at Leapfrog

GALLERIA 10 Bangkok and Independent Wine & Spirit (Thailand) hosted a wine tasting event at Leapfrog restaurant and bar, where oenophiles Thai and foreign got to sample Hayes Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (USA), Hayes Ranch Chardonnay (USA), Scrubby Rise Shiraz/ Cabernet Sauvignon/Verdot (Australia), Scrubby Rise Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon/ Viognier (Australia) and Fleur de France, Blanc de Blanc Brut (France).

Windsor Terrace Showcase

THE Windsor Terrace on Sukhumvit 18 invited a group of VIP guests, food lovers and press to experience the hospitality and cuisine of its newly opened restaurants.

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HEINEKEN REBORN HEINEKEN marked the launch of its newly redesigned ‘Star Bottle’ with a celeb-studded ‘Star Is Reborn’ launch party at Horizons bar on the 19th floor of Zen World at CentralWorld.

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Anniversary fun for Rotary ROTARY Club Bangkok South celebrated its 52nd anniversary with a special event at Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park.

Korean Thanksgiving at Parkview

THE Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel Bangkok marked Korea’s Chu Suk Festival by flying in Guest Chefs Lee, Sang Hack and Myeong, Hyeonji directly from Seoul to cook up their celebrated dishes at Parkview Restaurant. Highlights included Spicy Bay-Top Shell salad, Spicy Fried Crab, and Roasted Pork Rib.

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BeerVault’s BavariAn bash FOUR Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15 introduced its Oktoberfest promotions at BeerVault with a big party featuring free-flow beers and a wide variety of German eats. Until Oct 31, all imported German beers are two-for-one all day; and the pub’s delicious German sausage platter, just B300.

All in good taste at Hilton HILTON Sukhumvit Bangkok marked its grand opening with a special cooking demonstration by Executive Sous Chef Egidio Latorraca, who presented some of the dishes now available at the hotel’s Scalini restaurant. On hand to welcome guests were GM Chris Ehmann, as well as brand ambassadors Ploi Horwang and Khunying Mangmoom.

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Bed Supperclub Closing Party

Bed Supperclub Closing Party

Underground Party at Pullman G Hotel

PARTIES AT A GLANCE PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID HEISCHREK

HE by Mango Store Opening at Central World

Miguel Migs at QBar

Bed Supperclub Closing Party

Miguel Migs at QBar San Pellegrino Event at Spasso in Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel

Underground Party at Pullman G Hotel

Heaven Bangkok Opening at Zense

Salvatore Ferragamo Store Opening at Siam Paragon

HE by Mango Store Opening at Central World

Heaven Bangkok Opening at Zense

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Social|Around Last Month’s town Best Events

Ramada marks anniversary with community projects

RAMADA Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside celebrated its 27th anniversary by undertaking several community projects in its efforts to promote its green and community welfare causes. A Blood Donation Drive was organized in partnership with the Chareonkrung Pracharak Hospital; and the hotel also arranged “Tree Planting with Love,” which saw the the hotel’s directors, management team and staff organize for 100 trees to be planted in the gardens of Puttamonton Park in Nakhon Pathom.

Rotary’s Lunchtime Diplomacy

H E Mark Kent, British Ambassador to Thailand was recently guest speaker at Rotary Club Bangkok South (RCBS) on the topic “Lunchtime Diplomacy: Gastronomic Contributions to Good Relations.” Pictured left to right: Past President of RCBS, Mark Butters; President of RCBS 2013 / 2014 Michael Schulz; HE Mark Kent; and Past President of RCBS John Quarmby.

Zooming to success JUST Drink It Co., Ltd, producers of Angry Birds Fruit Juices, held a press conference at Flow House Bangkok to announce its partnership with former Formula 1 Champion Mika Hakkinen. This is first Angry Birds drink product in Thailand and Just Drink It Co. Ltd. expects to sell around 10 million units in the remainder of 2013 through its partnership with 7-Eleven as well as other outlets nationwide.

Tasty anniversary for Two Forty Eight

TWO Forty Eight Café & Bar at Northgate Ratchayothin celebrated its 3rd anniversary by inviting journalists to sample a range of new delicious dishes specially created for the restaurant by Executive Chef Teekanun Mandachitra.

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Promoting personal development

THE Hotel Public Relations Association (Thailand), led by its president Earth Saiswang, organized a one-day “Image and Personality Development Workshop” at the Amari Atrium Hotel on Petchburi Road. More than 100 members of the association attended the workshop, facilitated by Pranome Thavornvej, managing director of the John Robert Powers Institute.

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Jaguar F-Type arrives in style

CITY Automobiles Co., Ltd, the only authorised distributor of Jaguar in Thailand, showcased the Jaguar F-TYPE for the first preview in Thailand at the St. Regis Hotel Bangkok. The two-seater convertible, which starts in Thailand at B8.5m, made its debut to distinguished guests and business leaders including H.E. Mark Kent, the British Ambassador to Thailand, and celebrities. The event was sponsored by Beluga Vodka which hosted a bar serving premium Russian Vodka and F-Type special signature drinks, along with Fine de Claire No.4 oysters. AD Destination_Dec12.indd 1

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1: Cultural ushers at the 2012 WHLA event. 2: Award winners at the 2012 WHLA Gala Ceremony in Kuala Lumpur. 3: Mrs Marinique presents a trophy to an award winner. 4: Entertainment at the 2012 event. 5&6: This year's host, Indigo Pearl Resort Phuket

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The World Luxury Hotel Awards

Top international hotels to be awarded at glitzy ceremony in Phuket

THE world’s best service orientated hotels are set to be acknowledged in a glittering Gala Ceremony Presentation hosted by the World Luxury Hotel Awards at Indigo Pearl Resort, Phuket, Thailand on November 1, 2013. The World Luxury Hotel Awards is a leading Awards initiative recognizing the luxury hotel industry for outstanding service delivery. Also referred to as the “Oscars” of the hotel business, the Awards’ Gala Ceremony Presentation not only helps to encourage and raise service standards, but it also presents top decision-makers of the world’s finest hotels with the opportunity to network and celebrate their achievements. Marinique de Wet, Director of the World Luxury Hotel Awards, believes that Thailand (hosting the Gala Ceremony Presentation for the third time since its

establishment in 2006) is an integral part of the Awards initiative’s success because top hoteliers want to celebrate their achievements in a destination that is focused on outstanding service delivery ‒ something that the kingdom offers again and again at resorts such as Indigo Pearl Resort, Phuket. “I am delighted after many years of successful Gala Ceremony Presentations to bring this prestigious event to Indigo Pearl, a resort known for attracting the most sought after travellers,” de Wet said. The Awards are voted for by hotel guests, and this year hospitality organizations from 87 countries will be competing for the prestigious accolades on offer. Just a few of the names set to attend include Meritus Hotels & Resorts, Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts, Pan Pacific Hotels & Resorts, Sofitel Luxury Hotels, and

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InterContinental Hotels & Resorts. The winners, deemed by voters to have made the greatest contribution in terms of service delivery over the past year, will be announced and celebrated in front of an illustrious crowd of senior decision-makers, international celebrities, tourism and government leaders, and more luminaries from the hospitality trade. Expect a full round up of pictures in the December issue of The BigChilli.

Attendance of the event is strictly by invite only. For more info see: :luxuryhotelawards.com

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Diplomats p Meet the people uniting nations

HE Mr Rolf Peter Gottfried Schulze The German Ambassador talks about his country’s rich relationship with Thailand Page 118

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Diplomats

HE Mr Rolf Peter Gottfried Schulze|Germany

Ambassador Schulze forging even stronger links with Thailand With plans for a new Thailand-European FTA, plus investment here by major firms like Mercedes-Benz and BMW, the future looks By Maxmilian Wechsler extremely buoyant

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THE German embassy on busy Sathorn Road is an oasis of green that’s home to a number of animals some quite large you’d hardly expect to encounter in the centre of Bangkok. Asked about these delightful inmates, the German ambassador, His Excellency Mr Rolf Peter Gottfried Schulze, is naturally very accommodating. “Within our embassy we have giant turtles, and once in a while a python will visit us. There are plenty of large monitor lizards (varans) here as well. Until recently there were three peacocks here, but unfortunately, there’s only one left. We love him dearly and consider him a friend. He communicates with us every day. We are an open society here, everyone is welcome,” explains the ambassador. He adds that the animals move freely around the adjacent Austrian and Danish embassy compounds which are separated in some parts from the German mission only by a small fence. After discussing the wildlife inside the compound, Mr Schulze began talking about himself. “I just turned 60 in June and still feel strong and energetic. I am married to a lovely Dutch lady and am the father of three children, two daughters and a son. One daughter is working as a scientific adviser to a German foundation in Hanoi and the other studies law in Berlin. Our third child is with us in Bangkok. He goes to school, where he will take his International Baccalaureate Diploma next year. We are a happy family, and I have all the prerequisites to be a happy man. “I was born in southern Germany in the Black Forest city of Karlsruhe, near the border with France. Karlsruhe is a mid-size city, but because of its location in the Black Forest it has a lot to offer. The city is famous as the seat of the two highest German tribunals the constitutional court and the highest civil court in the land. “I never left my hometown until I was 18 years old; by then I wanted to escape as quickly as possible. I remember very well when, in 1972, a friend and I boarded the night train to Paris at midnight. I enrolled at Sorbonne University, where I studied French literature. I spent a year in France and then came back to Germany to study the classics. Again, after a couple of years,

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I got restless, so I went to Cambridge Downing College in England and studied there.” After a broad education specializing in linguistics and classical literature, Mr Schulze joined the German Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1980. He now has worked more than 30 years with the ministry and has travelled extensively in the performance of a wide variety of duties. He has been assigned to posts in Tokyo, Madrid and Beijing and for four years was the head of the Southern Caucasus and Central Asia Division desk in Berlin. “Asia keeps popping up in my professional career over and again,” said Mr Schulze, who was the German ambassador to Vietnam for four years before taking over at the embassy on Sathorn. “I had visited Thailand a few times in the 1980s as a tourist before I arrived here on August 22, 2011, as the German ambassador. It was a very memorable moment as on this particular day I was German ambassador to two countries. In the morning, I was still behind my office desk in Hanoi and in the afternoon I landed here in Bangkok. According to the German regulations, as soon as you touch ground of your new host country, you are the ambassador there. “Presently, as ambassador to the Kingdom of Thailand I have plenty to do. Germany has ambassadors in all ten ASEAN member states. My term is four years, so Thailand has to cope with me until 2015,” said Ambassador Schulze with a broad grin.

Link to Germany

“I am the voice and the face of Germany in Thailand. I represent the German president and the German government in Thailand, and therefore in any official dealings with the Thai government I am the link to Germany. However, I think my duties go beyond that. For one thing, I also consider it my job while here in Thailand to present a realistic picture of my country, in all its variety and richness. The intergovernmental link is one aspect of my job and the interpreter of modern-day Germany in Thailand is another.

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Ambassador Schulze in focus • 1972: Secondary School (Bismarck Gymnasium) in Karlsruhe • 1973 - 1979: University studies (classics, linguistics) in Paris (Nouvelle Sorbonne), Trier, Freiburg and Cambridge (Downing College) • 1980 - 1982: Attaché, Foreign Office, Bonn • 1982 - 1985: German Embassy Port-of-Spain: Desk officer, press department • 1985 - 1989: German Embassy Tokyo: Desk officer, political department • 1989 - 1992: Foreign Office: Desk officer in the political department • 1992 - 1995: German Embassy Madrid: Head of the press department • 1995 - 1999: Foreign Office: Deputy Head of Division (political department) • 1999 - 2003: German Embassy Beijing: Head of the political department • 2003 - 2007: Foreign Office: Head of Southern Caucasus and Central Asia Division • 2007-2011: Ambassador in Hanoi • August 2011: Ambassador in Bangkok TheBigChilli 127

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Diplomats

HE Mr Rolf Peter Gottfried Schulze|Germany

Frankfurt am Main ©Vincent Isore/IP3 press

“I represent my country in the areas of culture, civil society, social affairs and so on. The embassy’s support of German companies in Thailand is extremely important. There are 600 German firms in Thailand. Within the European Union, Germany is by far the biggest trading partner of Thailand. We are approaching a trade volume of 10 billion euro this year – this is my forecast for 2013 based on the first months of this year. There’s hardly a week that I don’t participate in the opening of a German factory here. “Another important element of my work and of the embassy as a whole is consular work lending support to German citizens and catering to the needs of Thai citizens travelling to Germany. We are an important Schengen visa embassy and I am extremely proud of the visa section of our consular department. “If Thai applicants have papers ready to apply for a visa to the Schengen area, within a couple of days more than 90 percent of them will get their visa without any problem whatsoever. “So to summarize, the main areas of my work are intergovernmental contacts, public diplomacy through cultural work, support to German companies and consular and visa work. “We have 30,000 Germans who live permanently in Thailand. They gave up their home in Germany and migrated to Thailand. This is a sizeable group and whenever I am out of the embassy, I try to meet and talk to them and listen to their needs and wishes. “Speaking for our embassy consular department and for myself, my fellow countrymen expect us to lend them an ear and to help with their big and small problems. I am very willing and prepared to do this.” Mr Schulze noted that Germany has honorary consuls in Chiang Mai, Pattaya and in Phuket to help with this duty. “We have 700,000 German tourists visiting Thailand every year, so

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We have 30,000 Germans who live permanently in Thailand. Whenever I am out of the embassy, I try to meet and talk to them and listen to their needs and wishes.

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Town Zell at the Mosel river in Germany ©colourbox

there’s a constant need for consular advice to our citizens. The embassy in Bangkok cannot do it alone; we need the support and experience of the honorary consuls.” Mr Schulze travels outside Bangkok as often as he can. “Staying in this office in Bangkok does not really give you an experience of what Thailand is like. I have come to realize that Bangkok is a great place but it is not at all representative of the country as a whole. Therefore, whenever I can, I will escape to the North, South, West or East to meet people from all walks of life, visit projects, meet my fellow countrymen and establish contacts with the local governments.”

Bilateral relations

“Last year we celebrated the 150th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Germany and Thailand,” said Mr Schulze, adding that during this jubilee year there were many events in honor of the bilateral relationship held in both countries. “We have extremely close, friendly, deep-rooted, productive relations that are beneficial to both countries, and in all these years we have never had any kind of serious problem. Germany was never a colonial power, and I dare to say that we are highly respected here and vice-versa. Thailand enjoys a very high reputation in my country.” Mr Schulze mentioned the German embassy in Bangkok is “sizeable” for this region. “We have now 101 persons; about half are Germans from headquarters and the other half are local employees. We are privileged to have excellent local staff. They are highly qualified and loyal and most of them can speak German. Without our Thai employees this embassy would not be in a position to fulfill the many tasks that we have,” said the ambassador. “Regarding official visits, they are constant, from both sides. On August 2012 Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn visited Germany. A month earlier Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra paid an official visit to Germany, where she met Chancellor Angela Merkel and invited her to visit Thailand.

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The Hofkirche stands as one of Dresden’s foremost landmarks. ©colourbox The Marienburg Castle in Lower Saxony.

Rothenburg ©colourbox Brandenburger Gate in Berlin illuminated at Night. ©colourbox

“The German ministers of foreign affairs and finance, as well as members of parliament and other officials have visited Thailand in recent memory. There’s a stream of visitors going both directions,” said Mr Schulze, adding that supporting these visits is an important part of embassy functions. This includes making preparations for their stay here, accompanying them to official meetings, coaching and briefing them and so on. “This keeps us very busy. There’s nobody at the Bangkok airport as often as me,” the ambassador joked.

‘Thai-EU FTA is win-win’ “Regarding our trade relations, Thailand has a slight trade surplus that makes us a very attractive partner here. Germany imports a whole range of Thai products like automotive parts, gems, information technology components, hard disk drives, fishery products, agricultural and aquatic products, garments, footwear and other items. On the other hand, Germany exports to Thailand automobiles, machinery, chemical products, electronics, kitchen and other equipment. “German firms like Mercedes-Benz and BMW in Thailand are investing in assembly plants for luxury cars and training employees, which creates value for Thailand,” Mr Schulze said. Of the Thailand-European Union Free Trade Agreement negotiations which began in Brussels in May, Mr Schulze said: “The FTA will be a win-win scenario for both sides. This future agreement will be beneficial to both EU member states and to Thailand. We are very ambitious. We hope to get a comprehensive agreement and we hope to move ahead with the negotiations in a constructive way. It is difficult to predict the development of these negotiations, but let’s put it this way: By the end of 2015 the ASEAN Economic Community will enter into force, so if the negotiation could be concluded around that date I think it would be a big achievement. “The FTA will lower or completely abolish import tariffs, meaning products coming in and out of Thailand will be cheaper, as they are with products coming from countries with which Thailand already enjoys FTAs with, including Japan and

Maiden steeg on the inner alster, Hamburg. ©Erwin Wodicka

Korea. The FTA will increase EU capital into Thailand as well. “Now Thai products enjoy preferential tariffs on goods exported to the EU, but Thailand has been categorized by the World Bank as a higher middle-income country (meaning that per capital income per year in Thailand is more than US$6,000). Thailand is no longer a developing country, and therefore next year will automatically graduate out of the generalized system of preferences of the EU. Unless there’s a trade agreement, Thai exports to the EU will become more expensive and less competitive. I think that this is strong incentive for the Thai government to move ahead with the FTA negotiations speedily. From our contacts, we know that the Thai government is aware and prepared to approach negotiations in a constructive spirit,” Mr Schulze mentioned.

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Cultural flow

Mr Schulze said there is a constant flow of high-profile cultural attractions coming to Thailand from his country. “For example, last year the Berlin State Ballet was here with two performances of Swan Lake performed before about 2,000 visitors each night at the Thailand Culture Centre. In October we are expecting the ballet troupe from my hometown Karlsruhe in the south of Germany, again with two performances. These are just two wonderful examples. “We have in the neighborhood of our embassy a Goethe Institute, which offers language and cultural programs and events in the fields of music, literature and so on. We have a German school in Chiang Mai and we are closely cooperating with the Swiss School in Bangkok. “More and more Thai people would like to learn German. Recently I had a meeting with the Thai minister of education and we agreed to expand the network of Thai schools with German offered as a foreign language. German universities maintain more partnerships with Thai universities than in any other country in Southeast Asia, altogether 150 universities. This is something. Our bilateral cooperation in the fields of culture, academics and science makes us extremely productive and fruitful.” TheBigChilli 129

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Diplomats

HE Mr Rolf Peter Gottfried Schulze|Germany

Tourism and sport “Thailand is a prime destination for German tourists. As I have said, last year 700,000 Germans from all walks of life visited Thailand. They visited all over the country – Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, Bangkok, Pattaya, Hua Hin, Phuket, Koh Samui and elsewhere. Thailand is very popular with German tourists and their numbers are increasing constantly. “As for Thais visiting Germany, we issue about 40,000 visas a year. “There are 20,000 Thais living in Germany. You will find excellent Thai restaurants in every major German city. However, I feel that very good Thai cuisine is served also in the residence of the German ambassador in Bangkok. We have a wonderful chef. Nobody can beat him in Thai and Asian cuisine. “Until very recently the Thai national football team had a German coach, a very close friend of mine, Winfried Schäfer. He is an excellent coach with a high international reputation. He worked with the Thai national team for two years and did an excellent job in my opinion. This shows that the links in football between our two countries are close. We are privileged that we can watch Bundesliga live on Thai television, which I do together with my son. I think that German football is very popular in Thailand. Clubs like Bayern München and Borussia Dortmund are tremendously popular here.”

Big fan of Thailand

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The ambassador also mentioned with obvious sincerity that he is a big fan of Thailand, the hospitality and friendliness of the people and also of the countryside. “I get on very well with the climate and I am a big admirer of Thai food, maybe too much. Thai food is really one of the major cuisines of the world. My favourite restaurant in Bangkok is the “Blue Elephant” with its wonderful setting, exquisite menu and charming owners. “As for German food in Thailand, there are some wonderful German restaurants. In Bangkok you have Bei Otto, which is an authentic German place, the Old German Beerhouse and also Pauline’s German Bakery which is excellent. Now I am trying to promote German wine. I will host a big event in February 2014 with the owner of the Schneider Vinyard in Rhineland-Palatinate. “My life here is full of wonderful experiences, every week and every day, but the most memorable so far was in October 2012 when the Berlin State Ballet performed Swan Lake at the Thailand Cultural Centre in front of 2,000 enthusiastic guests. It was a really moving experience. Another unforgettable experience was in January of this year, when my close friend Kuku Uberoi organized an open air concert, performed by the Israeli state orchestra and conducted by Zubin Mehta, in front of the Royal Palace.” Mr Schulze said that the biggest achievement of the German Embassy team over the last two years has been

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successfully moving forward cooperation in vocational training between Thailand and Germany, which is a top priority for both countries. “We have signed two MOUs, in October 2012 and May 2013. We established a pilot project between three German companies and the Thai Ministry of Education offering professional training according to the German curriculum. That means classroom training and on-the-job training, and after three years students receive a certificate issued by the GermanThai Chamber of Industry and Commerce here in Thailand and a job guarantee from one of the three German companies.” “Mr Schulze confessed that he has only one big disappointment with his life in Thailand “that we can’t conduct this interview in Thai. I am trying hard to learn Thai. Three times a week in the morning I have a teacher coming to the embassy, but I am not yet as good as I would like to be. My ambition is that if you visit me again next year we can speak Thai to each other. “Thai is a beautiful, tonal language. I consider it a big challenge to learn. I have the will to learn and have made it my objective to do so, first to speak and then to read and maybe to write as well.” Given his determination and linguistic background, the odds are good that Mr Schulze will be fluent in Thai before long. Besides German and English, he speaks several other languages including French and Spanish. “I spent four years in Spain. My wife is Dutch, so I speak Dutch. I studied Japanese and can speak pretty well. I worked for four years in China when I was somewhat younger. Let’s say that when I was there I could speak Chinese, but this is an extremely complex language that requires daily practice which I don’t have time for now. So if you ask me if I can speak Chinese, I must say less and less. “I am a classicist by training so I can read Latin and Greek. I love languages. Some people hate dictionaries and grammar books but I just love them.” As for other interests away from the job, the ambassador said he is “addicted” to golf and admitted: “I am a lousy player. Nevertheless, I play whenever I have the chance. There are so many golf courses in Thailand. You have a big choice. They are all beautiful, well kept, with good management, and they all treat me well. I also try to go to the gym in the RBSC a couple of times a week and I am an avid reader of literature of all kinds.” At the close of the interview the ambassador had high praise for Thailand and the Thai MFA: “Thailand has excellent diplomats who are on the same footing with diplomats of other major countries. Thailand can be honestly proud of their diplomatic service. They are extremely knowledgeable, helpful and we have daily contact. They are really first class. “I want to say thank you to Thailand, to the government and the people for receiving me in such a friendly way. I am an ambassador of Germany, but I always try to take into account the interests of my host country as well.”

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HUA HIN

Cha Am • Pranburi • And beyond...

Cape Nidhra Resort is now offering special rates for mid-week stays. Page 136.

News & deals

Hua Hin’s hottest promotions and deals await inside Page 136

Mom Lak

How Mom Lak used her personality to create an award winning business Page 132

Mate’s Rates Friends or family visiting Bangkok? Let them know about these deals! Page 148

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H ua H i n Insight

Mom Lak’s secrets for success How M.L. Laksasubha Kridakon used her own Personality to build an award-winning business BURSTING WITH CHARACTER

By Adam Purcell

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STACK of international design magazines, post-it notes tacked to many of the pages, is the first indication that M.L. Laksasubha Kridakon, affectionately known as Mom Lak, is an ideas junky. Piled high on a coffee table in her beachside home, the magazines suggest hours spent poring over the pages, each image carefully considered before being marked as official inspiration. Mom Lak’s schedule, however, doesn’t permit for such lengthy perusals. As the owner, manager, and glamorous face behind Hua Hin’s award-winning Baan Laksasubha Resort, a secluded beachside retreat at the heart of which lies her home, Mom Lak is the lifeblood of the resort’s success – on call 24/7 to tend to guests’ needs, motivate staff, and shape a personalized resort that, devoid of any international branding, offers a five-star accommodation experience without sacrificing any of its own unique Thai character. In between all this, she’s also a loving mum, a doting daughter, and member of both the Australian Chamber of Commerce in Bangkok and The Rotary Club of Royal Hua Hin. Put all these responsibilities together, and Mom Lak’s time with her favourite magazines is understandably short. But design periodicals are just one source of inspiration for this vivacious and independent entrepreneur. She draws the rest of her ideas from life itself, and boy, has she led an interesting one. The daughter of Khun Abha and M.R. Suttiswat Kridakorn, a diplomat, Mom Lak has been travelling the world since the age of two, when her father was posted to the Thai embassy in Paris, France. “My upbringing was very interesting,” she says in the kind of well-spoken, semi-American accent normally associated with third-culture kids. “We’d move on average every three to five years. So from Paris we went to Buenos Aires, Argentina for five years; then to Canberra, Australia. It was a great experience for me, and gave me a great chance to learn how different cultures operate.” In Australia Mom Lak began following in her father’s footsteps by studying Political Sciences at the University of Canberra, and when she returned to Thailand in the early ’80s she began working for the UN. For seven years she conducted research for the social development division, which focused on women’s roles and specialized youth schemes, and this fostered in her a real love for helping to make a difference in people’s lives.

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During this time she also met Dr.Kobsak Chutikul, an up and coming star in foreign affairs whom she married in 1987. A daughter, Abhasiri, and son, Thira, soon followed, and then, in 1991, Dr.Kobsak received his first ambassadorial posting which took the family to Czechoslovakia – just after the Velvet Revolution had restored democracy, and just before parliament peacefully dissolved the country and formally separated it into the Czech Republic and the Slovak Republic. “Now those were definitely interesting times,” says Mom Lak, breaking into a wide smile. “So many big changes for the country. "They were very happy times too,” she continues. “I forged a close friendship with Mrs Livia, the wife of President Vaclav Klaus (a special bond which still exists today), and my father was Ambassador to Hungary, meaning my parents were just a five-hours’ drive from Prague and they’d visit the kids most weekends. “Life was just perfect. Two beautiful kids, great friends, parents close by. Just wow.” But then tragedy struck. “Good things never last,” Mom Lak says, wistfully. “My father went to a European Ambassadors’ meeting in Brussels and he never made it back to Budapest; when he returned to Prague to pick up my mother he was terribly ill. Post Velvet Revolution, medication in Prague was sparse, so, after a frantic two weeks of doing border runs to Germany to get medication for him, I arranged for him to be taken by Air Ambulance to London. But when he arrived it was too late for him to be saved.” Losing a father is a huge blow for anyone, but for Mom Lak the loss hit her twice as hard – more than just a dad, he was also a source of much inspiration. “Dad really taught me how to live my life as a humble person,” she says. “And despite all the hi-so hobnobbing, and close ties with luminaries from many countries, that’s what I’ve always aspired to do.” Mom Lak, the great-granddaughter of HRH Prince Nares, certainly isn’t your typical hi-so Thai. There are certain class

indicators when we meet her – a Louis Vuitton Handbag clutched under her arm, a magazine award for best dressed woman on top of a cabinet – but as anyone who’s ever met her can attest, she’s the human equivalent of tea and toast – warm, down to earth, and instantly comforting. “Life is not about being trendy or having the best handbags,” she says, waving her Louis Vuitton with a chuckle. “The value of a person is not what you see on the outside but what’s projected from the inside. Being humble, being morally correct, being willing to help others and make a difference – that’s what my father taught me. That’s how he raised me. And following this is what makes me happy.” A huge chunk of happiness was torn from Mom Lak’s life the day her father died, replaced, instead, with a gloomy void which cast a dark shadow over her usually bright demeanor. In the darkness she worried about her mother being alone, and she worried about the future. But, then, a ray of light: the chance to establish herself as a successful businesswoman. “In 1993 I returned to Thailand as a single mum to take care of my own mother, and not long after returning I was

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H ua H i n Insight contacted by Mrs Livia who told me she missed me and that she had a great idea for a business venture – importing Czech crystals into Thailand. “So she introduced to me to various crystal manufacturers, my mum and I opened a shop in Bangkok on Sukhumvit 33, and we began importing crystal products reflecting the Rama V period. Business was good, and I spent a lot of time flying between Thailand and the Czech Republic. “After a year or so I saw that my mum was much happier and I began reflecting again on what I wanted to do. I mean, I love designing products, but I hated sales. I had dreamed of owning a pre-school of my own since my kids were young – a place where I could really make a difference. So at the end of 1994 I did just that: together with a teacher from Bangkok Patana, I opened the First Steps preschool on Sukhumvit 43.” The First Steps preschool began its operations that year with 30 pupils. When Mom Lak sold it 16 years later, in 2010, it had 140 pupils and a reputation for being an essential stepping stone for any child about to enter one of Thailand’s best international schools. “Running the school was one of the best things I’ve ever done,” she says. “I felt like I was really making a difference to the kids’ lives and I guess I can proudly say I was – some of the kids from way back then have contacted me to tell me how much their time at First Steps has influenced them and their lives. This is really lovely to hear.” uring her time at the school, Mom Lak wasn’t just influencing other people’s kids, of course, but also her own. Juggling the roles of being a soccer mum for her son, and a source of guidance for her daughter, she played tough but fair, and nurtured the same kind of traits in her kids that her father had instilled in her. “I didn’t want my kids growing up in a hi-so bubble so I ensured that they were kept thoroughly grounded,” she says. To do this, she insisted that, instead of spending their time after school glamming it up with friends in posh coffee shops, they should actually get behind the counters and do some work themselves. “My daughter got a job in Au Bon Pain and I was so proud to see her in there, mopping the floors, picking up trash, and closing up shop just like anyone else. I thought this was the only way I could really teach my kids what life is about; give them the kind of street smarts they’d need to survive in the real world.” Take a look at her kids now and it’s certainly been a case of mission successful. Both graduated from university in Australia and Abhasiri, 25, is now a therapist for autistic children at Merak Clinic

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in Bangkok, while Thira, 23, pursues a career in drama and film. Throughout the kids' lives Dr.Kobsak has remained a supporting factor, too, initially providing their education at Bangkok Patana School. So how does Baan Laksasubha Resort fit into the picture, especially considering Mom Lak’s ties with the school, the crystal shop, and being a full-time mum? “Well, the prime beachfront lands the resort stands on originally belonged to my great grandfather, Prince Nares [who, fact fans, actually gave Hua Hin its name]. I inherited the land when my father passed away in the early '90s, and in 1994 I built our family home here. “As for the resort – well, I like to think of myself as a serial entrepreneur and I always like to do two things at one time, that way I stay balanced. “So, in 2007, when the crystal shop wasn’t doing so well and we decided to let it go, I found myself looking for a new challenge. We had six rais of land available next to the house here in a prime location, so I thought, why not use it to build a hotel? So just like I did with the school, I jumped right in, got to work, and built the resort you see today.” Superbly located in the heart of Hua Hin’s main beach, Baan Laksasubha features 16 villas set within beautifully manicured gardens lovingly tended to by Mom Lak’s mum, a sprightly 80-year-old whose green fingered tinkering results in beautiful works of floral art. At the sand’s edge, the resort’s Oceanfront Restaurant serves up a wide range of international and Thai dishes (including a delicious pork green curry), while the Beachfront L bar, located next to an infinity pool, serves a decent selection of beers, wines, and cocktails. “In building the resort I’ve tried to take the best bits of western hotel philosophy and blend it with Thailand’s world renowned hospitality,” says Mom Lak. “And I’m constantly looking at ways of making things better too – hence the big stack of design magazines.” One thing’s for sure, there’s one key factor of Baan Laksasubha’s success that the resort’s competitors will never find inside the pages of a design magazine – Mom Lak’s heart and character. This kind of magic can’t be bottled, packaged, or sold. It can only be fostered through time, care, and love. And if Mom Lak’s dad were around to see her resort today, he’d be a very proud man indeed. Baan Laksasubha Resort Hua Hin, 53/7 Naresdamri Road, Hua Hin Tel: 03 2514 525-3 www.baanlaksasubha.com

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H ua H i n

News and Deals

Mango – High Tea style MANGO is being given the high tea treatment this month at Hyatt Regency Hua Hin’s McFarland House, where a new afternoon tea set features mango tartlet, mango pudding, scone with mango jam, and much more, all complemented by rich aroma tea. Available daily from 2pm-6pm. B300 per person and B500 per couple. Tel: 032 521 234 www.huahin.regency.hyatt.com

Mid-week break at Cape Nidhra

Fajita Mania

Weekday getaway at Villa Maroc

HOT and spicy Mexican fajitas take centre stage this month at Dune Hua Hin’s Sky Bar. Choices include Grilled imported steak or sizzling tiger prawns, and both come served with a combination of sautéed bell peppers and onions, a special blend of spices, and a generous topping of Monterrey Jack cheese. B595++ for two persons. Tel: 032 515 051-3 www.dunehuahin.com

UNTIL Dec 31, the Moroccan-inspired Villa Maroc Resort in Pranburi is offering 25% discount to anyone who books a room/villa for two consecutive nights or more from Mon-Thurs. Rates start at B6,000 per night for a Pool Court, including breakfast for two and in-room mini bar with non-alcoholic drinks. A Pool Villa and Two Bedroom Villa are also available. Quote “Moroccan Weekday” promotion when booking. Tel: 032 630 771 www.villamarocresort.com

Asian tapas delights LOOKING for a place to enjoy some tapas? Check out Sundara Lounge at Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa, where Asian-style tapas will be prepared fresh each day including mouthwatering selections such as Cheese tikki from India, Cha gio Vietnamese style spring rolls, Chicken yakitori from Japan, and much more. Available daily from 11am-11pm throughout Oct. Tel: 032 270 8000 www.starwoodhotels.com

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UNTIL Oct 31, Cape Nidhra Hotel Hua Hin is offering a ‘Luxury Weekday Breakaway’ package featuring two-nights’ stay in a Sky Pool Suite for B12,000 or Garden Pool Suite for B14,000. The package includes breakfast for two, two drink vouchers at On the Rock Bar, and one 45-minute Siamese Touch Massage (or one set dinner for two). Tel: 032 516 600 www.capenidhra.com

Golf and stay at Banyan Hua Hin THROUGHOUT Oct, a ‘Super Green Season’ package at Banyan The Resort features a two-nights’ stay in a One Bedroom Villa for B15,500 (for two persons) or five-nights’ stay in a One Bedroom Villa for B37,100 (for two). Package includes breakfast, 1/3 round of golf at Banyan Golf Club for two, Thai or oil massage, a set of afternoon tea, 3pm check out, and more. Tel: 032 538 888 www.banyanthailand.com

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H ua H i n

News and Deals

Polo for a great cause THE 12th annual King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament trundled into town last month with another action packed tournament attended by teams from all over the world, as well as celebrities, VIP guests and many Bangkok and Hua Hin residents. Alongside the main competition, which was won this year by newcomers Bangkok Bank, the event also featured a Hollywood-themed opening party, a Ladies’ Day with great prizes, a Children’s Day with fun activities for kids, and a Gala Dinner at Anantara Hua Hin Resort & Spa (organizers of the event), where a gathering of top dignitaries and celebrities took part in an auction which raised over four million baht for various elephant conservation projects in Thailand. Lead sponsors for the event were Audemars Piguet, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) and Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas. For more info: www.anantaraelephantpolo.com

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Hua Hin

Review|Oktoberfest fun

Review

Bavarian fun at the Hua Hin Brewing Company

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October has arrived and for beer fans this means just one thing ‒ it’s time for Oktoberfest!

LOOSEN your belts, take off your ties, and get ready ‒ Hilton Hua Hin is joining Germans the world over in celebrating Munich’s annual Oktoberfest festival by hosting three fun-packed party nights at the hotel’s Beer Garden next to the Hua Hin Brewing Company. Held from Nov 7-9 (6pm till late), the Oktoberfest celebrations will feature traditional Bavarian food such as Bratwurst, Thueringer, Roast Pork knuckle, onion soup and much more, alongside home-brewed and imported beers like the original Paulaner Hofbraeu Beer 2013. Hilarious live entertainment will be provided by the world famous Anton & The Funny Guys, and guests can also take part in drinking contests, sawing and hammering games, and more Oktoberfest-inspired activities. Can’t wait that long for some

Bavarian-style fun? Don’t worry. The Hua Hin Brewing Company has long held a reputation for being one of Hua Hin’s best nightspots, and you’ll find plenty of evidence of this inside the beerhouse, where a live band takes to the stage every night after 9pm to belt out renditions of international hits, followed by a DJ spinning beats till the early hours. Fuelling all the fun are some deliciously boozy cocktails, home-brewed beers (try the Dancing Monkey Lager), and an extensive selection of international eats, including highlights such as Pork cordon bleu (B150), Braised lamb shank (B450), Fish and chips (B350), and Australian Angus steaks (prices start 750 baht for a 250gr Sirloin). The Hua Hin Brewing Company isn’t just for adults and party animals, though. Before 10pm it’s also kid friendly

The Hua Hin Brewing Company, Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa, 33 Naresdamri Road,

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and a great choice for any parent who’s looking to treat his or her family to a feast without breaking the bank. A kids’ menu features a variety of dishes ranging in price from just B160 – B190, and includes popular choices such as Chicken nuggets with sweet chilli sauce (B160); and Cheeseburger with fries and salad (B190). Wonderfully anti-modern, the pub is decked out with a pirate-pleasing blend of mahogany tables and chairs, ships’ masts, oak barrels, and old thick rope. Even an entire Thai fishing boat makes up part of the pub’s large street-side terrace. But the theme’s not just nautical: there’s also all the trappings of a traditional European style pub ‒ a darts board, large TVs showing sports, and a wide selection of international ales. In short, all the ingredients for a great night out.

☎ 03 253 8947:huahin.hilton.com

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H ua H i n

W here to sleep an d e at

Hua Hin Where to sleep Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi

Hua Hin Where to eat Oceanside Beach Club Cocktails

■ Inspired by Morocco’s distinctive architecture, Villa Maroc combines Thai beachside living and service with some of the most luxurious furnishings from the North African Kingdom, making it a unique addition to Southeast Asia’s accommodation scene. The resort is located in Pranburi approximately 30 kilometers south of Hua Hin town. You can tuck into European, Middle Eastern and Thai cuisine at Casablanca, enjoy cocktails and shisha pipes at the Sisha Bar, relax in bliss at Sherazade Hammam & Spa, and much more.

■ Set in the beautiful Putahracsa Hua Hin resort, this relaxing beachfront restaurant offers a great selection of international food, drinks and music. You can tuck into seafood with piquant Thai sauces or devour huge slabs of meat fresh from the grill. The Jumbo Tiger prawns, Rock lobster, and New Zealand lamb chops score particularly good marks here. Other bonuses include a great sea view, and a long list of delightfully boozy cocktails. Open 5pm onwards.

165/3 Moo 3 Paknampran, Pranburi, Tel: 032 630 771 email: rsvn@villamarocresort.com

22/65 Nahb Kaehat Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 531 470

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa ■ This imposing resort in the centre of Hua Hin is regarded as one of the best family hotels in the region. Accommodation features comfortable rooms and suites, providing guests with a living space that exhibits contemporary Thai design flair and good in-room amenities. There are also 11 Spa Suites available. The awardwinning White Lotus on the 17th floor of the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa offers sky-high dining at down to earth prices. 33 Naresdamri Road. Tel: 032 538 999

S’MOR Spa Village & Resort ■ S’MOR Spa Village & Resort is always a great choice for a relaxing holiday. Located in the center of Hua Hin yet in the peaceful area overlooking the Khao Takiab Mountain with a long beautiful beach, this alfresco resort features six bungalows and eight bedrooms, each well-equipped with all the mod-cons you could need. The seafront bungalow offers you a choice of private outdoor Jacuzzi or indoor Jacuzzi. The resort’s spa is exclusive and distinctive with an extensive list of treatments including traditional Thai massage. For eats, the beachfront S’MOR Spa Beach Bar & Restaurant serves a wide variety of international and local cuisines.

Beach Cafe Restaurant

■ After a hard week of work in Bangkok you deserve a treat! Watch the perfect day on the beach transcend into a unique candlelit dining experience with your loved one. The restaurant offers excellent steaks and seafood plus an unrivaled choice of cocktails and outstanding wines at reasonable prices. The only non-hotel affiliated restaurant on Hua Hin’s main beach offers great value for money. Soi Hua Hin 75/1 by the sea, Prachaubkirikhan 77110, Open Mon – Sun 10am – 10pm. www.beachcaferestaurant.com

La Paillotte

■ This charming French restaurant is the ideal place to enjoy an evening of fine food in relaxed surroundings. The fresh and colourful décor brings to mind citrus-scented Mediterranean evenings, as do the excellent range of aperitifs, wines, beers and digestifs. Although the culinary roots of La Paillote’s cuisine are classically French, the kitchen team enhances a rich culinary tradition with contemporary touches. An a la carte menu and nine set menus are available. Open daily from 11am till late.  174/1 Naresdamri Road, 77110 Tel: 032 521025

122/64 Takiab Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 536 800 142

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COAST CO PATTAYA

Kok Chang • Wong Amat • Jomtien • Bang Saray • Sattahip • Rayong

Centara Resorts in Pattaya have some great deals on offer this month. Page 144.

News & Deals

The Eastern Seaboard’s hottest dining and hotel promotions Page 144

Boat show

Pattaya’s only marinafront lifestyle boat show returns next month Page 144

Pinktober

Help raise funds for breast cancer charities at the Hard Rock Hotel Page 146 TheBigChilli 143

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P a t t aya

News and Deals

Centara offers special rates

Ocean Marina Pattaya Boat Show

UNTIL Dec 13, Centara Grand Phratamnak Resort Pattaya (located in Phratamnak Hill residential district) is offering rates starting at B2,960 per night. In North Pattaya, meanwhile, Centara Grand Modus Resort Pattaya is offering 30% discount off its rates until Dec 24. www.centarahotelresorts.com/special_offers

Buffet Dinner at Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa LOOKING for sumptuous buffet dinner? Check out the Garden Café at Pattaya Marriott Resort where a special Come 4 Pay 3 deal is now on offer. B850 per person. Available daily from 6pm-10pm. Tel: 038 412 120 www.marriott.com

SEAFARING folk take note: Pattaya’s only marina-front lifestyle boat show returns this year on Nov 23-24 at Ocean Marina Yacht Club. The event brings together all the products and services one needs to embark on a luxury yachting lifestyle, featuring boats, supercars, beachfront property, and much more. There are also lots of onshore and on-water activities and entertainment planned, including free sailing trials, free kayak trials, lucky draws, luxury cocktail parties, Dragon Boat Race and a marina-side beer garden and festival with live band. Following the successful inaugural event in 2012, organisers are planning for it to be even bigger and better this year. Already 60% of the in-water display area is booked and reservations for the 2,600sqm of onshore display space are strong, with marine businesses, luxury automobile brands and upmarket real estate in the offerings. Over 100 exhibitors and 3,000 visitors are expected to attend. www.oceanmarinaboatshow.com

The King of Swing returns to Silverlake LEGENDARY Dutch Swing Band ‘Big to the Future’ (B2F) is returning to Silverlake Wine & Grill on Oct 15 for what’s sure to be another fun-packed sensational live show. The evening kicks off with welcome drinks at 6.30pm, followed by dinner at 7pm, and the show at 8pm. B1,300 per person (dinner and show included). Tel: 089 896 5166 www.silverlakevineyard.com

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Hilton fosters hospitality talent HILTON Pattaya joined forces with UNICEF last month to host a Youth Career Development Program which gave selected trainees the chance to learn a wide range of skills needed for success in the hospitality industry. The event was a huge success, with the trainees all taking home lessons that will stand them in good stead for furthering their careers in Thailand.

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P a t t aya

News and Deals

Ice-cream treats at Café Kantary Junior suite promotion at Garden Cliff UNTIL Oct 31, Garden Cliff Pattaya is offering its Junior Suites at just B4,999 per room per night, inclusive of breakfast for two. Book a minimum of two nights and kids under 12 stay for free (the hotel will provide one extra bed, and breakfast for a maximum of two kids). Tel: 038 259 333 www.gardencliffpattaya.com

HOP by Café Kantary any day this month and you and your kids can enjoy the adorable end-of-school-year treat, ‘Oh Bunny, Oh Teddy’. The ice-cream sundaes come in two flavours, strawberry cheesecake bunnies and double chocolate teddies. B95 each. www.kantarycollection.com/kantarybay-sriracha

Get the name right for a dream trip to Surfer’s Paradise

Hard Rock Hotel Pattaya goes pink HARD Rock Hotel Pattaya is raising funds for breast cancer charities in Thailand this month with a series of ‘Pinktober’ promotions. Room rates start at B3,824++ per room per night (Sun-Thurs) and B4,079++ per room per night (Fri-Sat). Twenty-five percent of the room revenue will be donated to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF) and Thanyarak Foundation. Package includes daily buffet breakfast for two, free ‘Pink Cocktail’ for two, buy one get one free for any massage treatment at Rock Spa, and much more. Tel: 038 428 755-9 www.pattaya.hardrockhotels.net

Movers and Shakers Charity Gala Event THE Movers and Shakers Charity Networking Group will hold the 2013 edition of its annual Gala Event at the Centara Grand Mirage & Spa on Sat Nov 2. This huge corporate networking event promises to offer exquisite food and drinks, and top quality live entertainment. For more info see www.moversshakerscharity.com

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KINGDOM Property is offering a free trip to Surfer’s Paradise in the heart of Australia’s Gold Coast for the person(s) creating the ultimate name and/or tag line for its luxury condominium project on Wongamat Beach, Pattaya. The winner will receive Business Class return tickets for two and a five-night stay at the newly refurbished five-star Sheraton Mirage Resort & Spa Gold Coast. Key points for the Wongamat project: Absolute beachfront; Pattaya’s most exclusive project; High-quality and innovative design elements; Distinguished developer and development team track record; Over 50 stories of spacious residences on a generous 8,000 square meter site. For a chance to win this superb Aussie vacation, submit your entry at www.kingdomproperty.com before Oct18.

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Travel

Deals and Promo t i o n s • Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside:

s ’ e t a M s rate

Throughout Oct, the hotel’s ‘Riverside Retreat Offer’ deal starts at B4,500 for two nights stay in a Deluxe River view room. The offer also includes buffet breakfast for two. ☎ 02 688 1000 ramadaplazamenamriverside.com

amily f r o s d ? Frien hailand t T g n i t i vis w abou o n k m Let the e deals thes

• Kantary Hotel Kabinburi: Available until Dec 31, the hotel’s ‘Golf Package’ starts at B2,000 per person (Mon-Thurs) or B2,700 per person (Fri-Sun and public holidays), and includes accommodation for one night with breakfast and green fees for two rounds at a choice of two of the area’s best golf courses. ☎ 037 282 699 kantarycollection.com

• Pullman Bangkok King Power: Throughout Oct, the hotel’s

• Ascott Residencies: Ascott Limited is offering a ‘Weekend Package’ deal at its participating residences in Bangkok. Available for a minimum booking of two nights and valid for stays on Fri-Sun through Dec 31, the package starts from B1,500 per night and includes daily housekeeping service, daily breakfast, late check out, and more. ☎ 02 344 2500 the-ascott.com

‘Delicious Escapade’ offers rates starting at B3,319++ per night for a Superior room, and includes breakfast for two, 10% discount card for shopping at King Power Duty Free Mall, B500 credit to spend at the hotel’s restaurants, and 3pm check out. ☎ 02 680 9999

• Rayong Marriot Resort & Spa: Until Oct 31, the hotel’s ‘Honeymoon Package’ offers rates starting at B7,476.63 for accommodation in a Studio suite, including breakfast for two, a bottle of wine, in-room honeymoon set up, a Thai set lunch and a romantic candlelight dinner for two. ☎ 038 998 000 bit.ly/1b4FyTw

• The Sukosol Bangkok: Available until Dec 31, the hotel’s ‘Executives Package’ offers a two-night deal for two adults in a Club Siam Deluxe room for B9,400++. The deal includes daily breakfast, signature drink at Sapphire Bar, 3pm check out, and one way airport transfer. Receive 25% discount when booking an extended night. ☎ 02 247 0123 ext. 1103-1108 sukosolhotels.com

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• S.M. Grande Residence Bangkok: From now until Dec 31, the “Advance Purchase” promotion offers 15% discount when booking 14 days in advance for Deluxe, One Bedroom or Two Bedroom rooms (starting at B2,593 per night); and 10% discount when booking seven days in advance (starting at B2,745 per night). ☎ 02 656 0818 smgrandebangkok.com

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