The Bangkok BigChilli. November 2013.

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FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT IN BANGKOK

November 2013 08 INSIGHT News, letters, gossip and more 16 BRITISH AMBASSADOR Downsized embassy is busier than ever, says HE Mr Mark Kent 22 THE MAN WHO MAKES US SMILE With Stephff’s cartoons, the joke’s on us 26 DARK SIDE OF ONLINE PHARMACIES Buyers of drugs through the internet beware 31 GOURMET A round up of all the best restaurant deals and gourmet events in Bangkok 61 EXPAT WOMEN Health, shopping, people, advice, and fiction from the BWWG 87 WHAT’S ON Exhibitions, performance, sport – this month’s best events all wrapped up 82 HUMAN TRAFFICKING How Thailand is stepping up its fight against the crooks 101 SOCIAL Last month’s best events in pictures 123 DIPLOMATS Meet the Luxembourg Ambassador 129 HUA HIN Deals and news 139 PATTAYA Hot news from the Eastern Seaboard

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Opinion

New tax on wine – why it’s hard to swallow By M.J. Hargreaves

that same bottle at 3,500-6,000 baht on Who benefits from the recent its wine list. the wine business (and some consurge in duty that’s doubled the Effectively, the legal market for sumers in the know) here in Thailand wine just cut its wholesale price off regarding the new tax regime and the cost of wine? Certainly not the 599 baht. Wines over 600 baht will news is all bad. The Excise Department Revenue Department, argues a atdisappear or be limited as the demand in Thailand has declared war on the is likely to plummet. The only wines we wine industry. It’s an easy target. Wine European importer, as drinkers will see in the short-term are those that is a small but growing market here will shun expensive wine for retail for less than 799 baht, or on the with no large domestic producers to fight back against this severe increase. cheaper varieties – or even trade wine list for less than 1,600 baht or so. Everything else will be so expensive First, let me explain what will happen down to local whiskies that demand will dry up. in the near future and then tell you The question of why this was done is complicated, but the why it will be so bad for you, the consumer. Excise Department will tell you that it is a combination of Excise is a domestic tax. Duty, collected by Cushealth-related issues (alcohol) and a luxury tax (any wine toms, is for imported goods only. Domestic wines pay the over 600 THB). In truth, neither is the real reason. Moving same taxes as imported, minus the duty. The maximum to a flat tax scheme is very smart as it should eliminate duty for Thailand is 54% of the value of the goods, including the “gray” issue of valuation and the undervaluing that is shipping costs or CIF. This neatly fits under the 60% maxirampant in the industry. That should have generated more mum which is the limit under the agreements of the World revenue for the Excise Department. Trade Organization. Many individual free-trade agreements However, the health related issue for alcohol in Thailand have lowered this or are in the process of scaling down the is not wine (or beer) related but the percentages over a 10-year period (Australia, New Zealand and, multi-billion baht local whiskey busirecently, Chile). I mention this as there is no point complaining ness which dominates the market and is to any Embassy about this as they have no say in a domestic tax not facing much of any increase in taxes. applied to local producers as well. This is not a trade issue, but a Meanwhile, the Excise Department will domestic tax issue and, therefore, not open to discussion with not be able to collect the luxury part of the any foreign government. taxes as importers will not bring wines in Prior to September 4, 2013, excise was collected by that wholesale over 600 baht for the short Customs and calculated at a percentage or multiplier of and medium-term. Consumers will not pay the the CIF value. Now, the rate will be flat and represents difference from one day to the next and volumes a massive increase in the amount of excise tax collectwill plummet, resulting in less tax collected. If ed. For every litre of wine with a wholesale value less this were truly a health-related issue, then the than 600 baht, a flat 225 baht will be added (168.75 baht for a local whiskey brands would be concerned. Tell750ml bottle). This should work out to another 100-150 baht ingly, Thai Bev, which is traded on the Singapore per bottle on a retail shelf. Exchange, is on a strong “buy” recommendation Worse, for any wine sold to a wholesaler (restaurant, from most analysts in the market. hotel, upcountry wholesaler, Beer will also face this etc) that is priced over 600 baht new tax scheme, and per bottle, another 36% of the wholewe are starting to see sale value will be added. So, any wine that, increases across the board for example, sold by a wholesaler for 1,000 on all beer and a shortage of baht previously, an increase of imported beer as importers around 100 baht PLUS another are unclear as to the impact it will 360 baht will be added to the have. All of this points to cost, driving the price to the significant increases in the hotel to 2,000 baht. cost of a beer and a bottle For you, this will mean hotels of wine. For most consumthat may have charged you in ers, this will mean trading the past anywhere from 1,600down to local whiskey. For wine 3,000 baht, will – if they keep the drinkers, it will not be pleasant. same mark-up as before – price

■ THERE is a lot of talk going on in

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PUBLISHER Colin Hastings editorbigchilli@gmail.com MANAGING EDITOR Adam Purcell adambigchilli@gmail.com EDITOR Nina Hastings ninabigchilli@gmail.com ASSISTANT EDITOR Chutinanta Boonyamarn nanbigchilli@gmail.com SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Rojjana Rungrattwatchai sendtorose@gmail.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Thana Pongsaskulchoti thanabigchilli@gmail.com ACCOUNTING MANAGER Saranya Choeyjanya fatcatbigchilli@gmail.com ART & PRODUCTION Arthawit Pundrikapa, Jaran Lakawat PHOTOGRAPHY Mini Bike Gang, David Heischrek and WJ CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anette Pollner, Johanna DeKoning, Judith Coulson, Martine Olthof, Maxmilian Wechsler, Paul Hewitt, M.J. Hargreaves

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We are now on Twitter. Find out what’s happening around town, which events to attend, parties to be seen at, and read all the juicy gossip! Follow us at ‘TheBigChilliMag’ No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from The BigChilli Co., Ltd. The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily the views of the publishers. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the publisher, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. The editor reserves the right to accept, reject or amend any submitted artwork, photographs, illustrations and manuscripts. The BigChilli welcomes unsolicited contributions but assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of such materials damaged or lost in transit.

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letters Inbox|Have your say

Insight

WHERE THE STREETS HAVE NO SHAME

■ I LIVE on Sukhumvit near Soi 15 where I often witness BMA officers trying to ‘extort’ money from tourists who carelessly drop cigarette butts or chewing gum on the sidewalk. While littering is an offence and punishable by a fine (as it is in other countries), I can’t get used to the fact that BMA officers apply this law to an extent which I would consider extortion. From what I know, the maximum fine for littering is B2,000, which is what you would apply for disposing your garbage on the sidewalk. According to a high-ranking politician who recently touched on that subject in an event at the FCCT, dropping a cigarette warrants a fine of approximately B200. Usually when I walk in this tourist area I come across a scared and confused foreigner sitting at a made-up desk below the only littering warning sign I can find on this stretch of Sukhumvit – and the foreigner is being forced to pay B2,000. When I make the nervous tourist aware of the disproportionate fine, and the fact that the officers are not actually police, the officers often settle for much less or even let the foreigner go with a warning. Obviously, the officers know that they can take advantage of the fact that

foreign tourists don’t know the Thai law. What really concerns me is that: 1. BMA officers present themselves as ‘BMA police.’ I don’t believe the word police can be used if you are not actually a police officer (however, I’m not an expert on this). But it is certainly purposely misleading for a tourist. 2. BMA officers state the fine is normally B10,000 but, for a small offence, they charge only B2,000. For an officer to state the law incorrectly in order to extort money is, to my knowledge, illegal. 3. BMA officers don’t hesitate to use physical force to bully and intimidate an offender, with a number of officers called up to intimidate the tourist. 4. BMA officers claim that this law applies to everybody and in any part of the city. However, I only see them in tourist areas (I actually only know of Sukhumvit Soi 5 and 15) which makes this a very questionable practice.

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5. BMA officers refer to Singapore in order to justify their actions but seem to ignore the fact that the streets there are actually clean and well maintained. Around the officer’s desk on Sukhumvit, you’ll spy many cigarette butts and other litter which makes this whole circus even more laughable. In a recent event I witnessed I decided to call the tourist police and ask for their assistance. Not surprisingly, they refused to get involved and mediate. Since my business relies on foreign tourists, I’m deeply concerned how they feel when, after squeezing their way between countless shops and temporary bars on the ever-dirty sidewalks of Bangkok, they are then forced to pay a disproportionate fine for dropping a cigarette butt. Is this how Thailand wants to improve its image and welcome more tourists? I understand this is not a new subject and it has been used as a story before. But in my opinion, it remains a pressing issue which shows how personal gains hurt the image and progress of this country. Roger, Bangkok We couldn’t agree more, Roger. Read our feature article about the problem at http://bit.ly/1c6eCBh

WHY THE SECRECY? ■ THE item ‘Fish off the menu’ in the September issue by an expert on the fishing industry was of wide interest and attracted several letters. You followed up with a second piece in October on ‘Overfishing is “yesterday’s myth” (p.10) giving the alternative view of another expert. Sadly, neither expert was named and no background info on them was given so we readers were unable to assess their credibility. This is essential when radical views are presented. Can you please include this information in future presentations on controversial topics. R.W.A. Thanks for your letter. The experts we contacted for the stories you mention asked to remain anonymous, citing company policy. We don’t aim to mislead with our articles, and will always name our sources when possible.

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NICE RIDE ■ I ENJOYED your article about motorcycle taxi drivers in the October issue (p.56-60). The inside stories of the drivers made for fascinating reading, and I really admire how these Bangkok dwellers manage to earn a living while facing hardships. I hope you will include more stories like this which highlight the many interesting walks of life to be found in Bangkok. I really appreciate all your hard work. Thanks. U Aye Saung, Myanmar

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Insight

News|Gossip

Out for the count – Lumpini Boxing Stadium is floored ■ ONE of Bangkok’s best-loved landmarks and tourist attractions will disappear when the Lumpini Boxing Stadium on Rama 4 Road closes for good at the end of the year. Since its opening in 1956, this famous indoor arena has been known as the symbol of modern ‘Muay Thai,’ or Thai boxing. Contests are held every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday from about 6pm. Most of the country’s top-rated boxers have fought at Lumpini. Proceeds from the fights go to the Thai Army, which owns the stadium. A new venue for Muay Thai is being built in the Ram Inthra district of Bangkok.

Farewell to the Tavern ■ LOVERS of Witch’s Tavern on Soi Thonglor, one of Bangkok’s oldest pubs, better get down there quick before it closes. Owner Eddie has sold a 30-year lease on the land and the Tavern will disappear early next year. In its place will be a Centre Point serviced apartment. Eddie is also looking to sell Witch’s Oyster Bar on Soi Ruamrudee.

Thieving caddie is nabbed ■ IT was only when he’d got home that a golfer realized he had lost or left his mobile somewhere on the golf course. Fortunately he was quickly able to locate its whereabouts, lying close to a tree on the 14th, thanks to an app on his wife’s mobile. Keeping a close watch on the mobile during their journey back to the golf course, the couple was alarmed to see it suddenly move, obviously by someone who had found it under cover of darkness. Continuing to trace the mobile, they eventually caught up with it in a local market for second-hand goods. And the person trying to sell it was – somewhat predictably – the golfer’s caddie earlier that day. She’s now lost her job. 10

Weaker beer coming? ■ WHILE the main focus of the recent duty increases on alcohol has been on wine, beer is also affected by the changes. To avoid big increases in retail prices, brewers are apparently planning to lower the alcohol content of their beers. Does this mark the end of Thailand’s famously strong beers?

Road for condos ■ A NEW road has suddenly appeared as a link between Sukhumvit Soi 36 and 38. In the past, traffic could only enter either of these sois via the main Sukhumvit or Rama 4 roads. The reason for this new link has nothing to do with easing traffic or for the convenience of residents, but as a way of getting permission to build high-rise condos along its way.

Restaurant discount scam ■ WATCH out for certain restaurants offering hefty discounts to diners who come in groups of four. While the price per person is reduced, by as much as half, the VAT and service charges are calculated on the full price basis. As a result, the savings are not as generous as promised by the restaurant. It’s a practice that is almost certainly illegal, and also very misleading. Luckily, only a few restaurants do this.

Heard on the street

Hot gossip from the sois of Bangkok

How pubs score with the Premier League ■ PUBS and restaurants screening UK football are facing some hefty fees by Cable Thai Holding (CTH), sole broadcaster of the English Premier League. But it’s apparently not uncommon for one outlet to pay a different amount to another. While there are indeed sliding payment scales according to the number of screens showing the matches, some pub owners have bargained down the fees to a fraction of what CTH originally demanded.

Price is right for the penthouse buyer ■ THE prospective buyer of a penthouse in one of Bangkok’s most expensive condos shocked the salesman when he had the temerity to ask for a discount that was several millions below the project’s ‘best price.’ Offering his apologies and saying such large discounts were not possible, the salesman was further shocked when the buyer offered his own apologies and said he wasn’t talking about a discount on one penthouse, but TWO. A contract was quickly signed.

No check on the cheques ■ A FOREIGN investor recently discovered to his considerable cost why it’s so important to have a shareholder-partner in your company who you can really trust. The hapless fellow proved powerless when his partner and major shareholder in his venture decided to pay herself huge amounts of money from the company funds. As the sole signatory of the bank account, she was perfectly entitled to do just that – and all he could do was watch the money drain away while waiting for a court injunction. Or bankruptcy.

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Insight

Feature|Q&A

Thailand’s remarkable Mrs Duckworth A former ISB student who suffered terrible injuries during the Iraq War makes her mark as a US politician with strong views about America’s military missions

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OVERSEAS Thais rarely make a splash internationally. Ladda Tammy Duckworth is an exception, and a truly remarkable one at that. In addition to being the first member of US Congress born in Thailand, she’s also the first disabled woman to be elected to the US House of Representatives, having lost both of her legs in 2004 when the helicopter she was piloting was hit by an RPG during the Iraq War. In 2009, President Obama appointed Mrs Duckworth – who carries the rank of Lieutenant Colonel – as Assistant Secretary in the US Department of Veterans Affairs. As a politician, she is known for her straight-talking, especially in regard to provision of veterans’ care and US government defence spending. She has also said publicly that the presence of coalition troops in Iraq was exacerbating the conflict. In Bangkok recently, Mrs Duckworth spoke to the BigChilli about her life, her visit to Thailand and her disabilities. How was your recent visit to Thailand? It was fantastic! I traveled to Thailand to advocate for US businesses and help reaffirm the great friendship between the United States and Thailand. Who did you meet while here in Thailand? I met a lot of people, including the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Veterans of Foreign Wars, Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn and Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra. Are you at liberty to disclose what you and Mrs Yingluck spoke about? We discussed reaffirming the great friendship between the United States and Thailand.

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Insight

Feature|Q&A

What sparked your interest in politics? After I sustained my injuries serving with the US military in Iraq, I made a commitment to my buddies who saved me to make every moment of my life count. In 2006, I was appointed Director of the Illinois Department of Veterans Affairs, and then went on to work as an Assistant Secretary for the United States Department of Veterans Affairs in 2009. I truly felt that my service to this country was not over after I recovered. I wanted to advocate for servicemen and women who dedicated so much to our country. We often forget that our responsibility to this America’s service members does not end when they come home. Why did you volunteer for militar y duty? While in graduate school at George Washington University, in Washington, DC, I found that my peers and those whose values I most respected were all Veterans or active members of the military. I eventually enrolled in ROTC and fell in love with the military.

Do you support the American government’s foreign policies - especially in recent years with regard to the Middle East and the current situation in Syria? In regards to Syria, under the current conditions, I believe the United States should not place American Servicemen and women on the ground in Syria in any capacity. I will not support an open-ended use of force without clear end goals, and I want to know whether our allies will commit resources and actively participate in any action; the United States cannot bear the burden of opposing the Assad regime on our own. What have you learned about life as a result of your combat wounds? I’ve learned that you have to make the most of the circumstances you find yourself in. Life is too short to worry about what could have been (the ‘what ifs’). Is there anything the US can learn from Thailand, and vice versa? It’s essential that the US Congress enact policies that empower businesses to export overseas to countries like Thailand. Southeast Asia provides numerous opportunities for businesses throughout our country and I look forward to advocating for policies that help American exporters seize these opportunities. I am confident that the 180 years of Thai-American relationship will continue to grow as both countries continue to work together. Do you have any plans to visit Thailand again? Of course! I look forward to visiting Thailand in the near future and continuing to strengthen the partnership between the United States and Thailand.

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Life, times and a Purple Heart LADDA Tammy Duckworth was born on March 12, 1968, in Bangkok, Thailand, to a mother of Chinese heritage and a father of British descent. Because her father did refugee work for the United Nations, Duckworth’s childhood took place against varied backdrops – spanning Thailand, Indonesia, Singapore, Cambodia and Hawaii. As a teenager Mrs Duckworth, along with her mother, Lamai, and her father, Franklin, moved to Hawaii. After high school, which included a short period at the International School of Bangkok (ISB), Duckworth earned her undergraduate degree at the University of Hawaii. Afterward, she obtained her Master of Arts in International Affairs at George Washington University. Relocating later to Illinois, she enrolled in a political science Ph.D. program at Northern Illinois University. In 2004, Mrs Duckworth was deployed to Iraq as a Blackhawk helicopter pilot for the Illinois Army National Guard. She was one of the first Army women to fly combat missions during Operation Iraqi Freedom until her helicopter was hit by an RPG on November 12, 2004. Duckworth lost her legs and partial use of her right arm in the explosion and was awarded a Purple Heart for her combat injuries. Mrs Duckworth spent the next year recovering at Walter Reed Army Medical Center. As one of the highest-ranking patients, she quickly became an advocate for her fellow soldiers and testified before Congress about caring for our Veterans and wounded warriors. Still believing in the worthiness of her mission amid questions of whether she felt her sacrifice was for naught, Duckworth responded, “I was hurt in service for my country. I was proud to go. It was my duty as a soldier to go. And I would go tomorrow.” Referring later to her injuries, she said: “Right now, I’m living in what I call my ‘bonus time,’” she said. “I should have died in a dusty field in Iraq when my helicopter was shot down, but my buddies saved my life. This lets me be fearless.” Following her recovery, Mrs Duckworth ran for Congress in 2006. After a narrow loss, she became Director of the Illinois Department of Veterans Affairs. In Illinois, she worked to create a tax credit for employers who hired Veterans, established a first-in-the-nation 24/7 crisis hotline for Veterans, and developed innovative programs to improve Veterans’ access to housing and healthcare. In 2009, President Obama appointed Mrs Duckworth to be Assistant Secretary of Veterans Affairs. At VA, Duckworth led an initiative to end homelessness among Veterans. She created the Office of Online Communications to improve the VA’s accessibility, especially among young Veterans, and also worked to address the unique challenges that Native American and female Veterans face. Mrs Duckworth ran for Congress in 2012 to advocate for the practical solutions and cooperation needed to rebuild the e conomy and ensure that every American has a chance to achieve the American Dream. Mrs Duckworth lives in Hoffman Estates with her husband Bryan, an Army Major. Since her recovery, Mrs Duckworth has taken up scuba diving, surfing, skydiving and flies as a civilian pilot. Fulfilling a promise she made at Walter Reed, she has also completed several marathons. She has resumed her Ph.D. studies at Northern Illinois University and is also working toward a Ph.D. in Health and Human Services at Capella University.

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Insight

Q&A|Ambassador in focus

INTERVIEW: HE Mr Mark Kent

Downsized embassy is busier than ever, says British Ambassador The compound may have shrunk and several key services outsourced, but Britain’s diplomatic mission has its hands full these days with responsibility for trade, investment, visas, crime, defence and lobbying on behalf of British residents

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MARK Kent’s first day at the British Embassy in Bangkok, on August 15, 2012, coincided with an interesting moment in history, for exactly 400 years ago to the day, a British ship called The Globe sailed up the Chao Phraya River, docked in Bangkok and officially established relations between Siam and England. A more auspicious start to a new posting, especially in superstitious Thailand, is hard to imagine. Four centuries later much has changed, of course, including the relocation in 1926 of the original British embassy on the banks of the Chao Phraya River to its present site on Wireless Road. Today, the once-sprawling compound famed for its giant rain trees, lush lawns and statue of HM Queen Victoria is literally overshadowed by a giant hotel and shopping complex being built on land sold off several years ago by Britain’s Foreign Office under the Labour government, much to the widespread disapproval of the local British community. Recent years have also seen the embassy outsourcing a number of its traditional services, most notably the issuing of UK passports and the visa application process, although all decisions to grant or refuse visas are still taken by qualified embassy staff. At the same time, certain

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“I am under obligation to report any British nationals involved in bribery or corruption.”

By Colin Hastings

commercial activities have been handed to the government’s UK Trade & Investment (UKTI), which in turn has linked up with the British Chamber of Commerce of Thailand (BCCT) to promote business between the two countries. The UK’s physical presence here may have diminished, but with an increase in regional services and responsibilities the workforce is bigger than ever, with about 120 local employees and 50 UK officials. Meanwhile, relations between the two countries remain extremely cordial, with lots of shared interests and benefits accruing more equally to both parties nowadays. The importance of this relationship is reflected in the visit last year of Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra to the UK, where she met HM Queen Elizabeth and Prime Minister David Cameron. In the same month, British Foreign Secretary William Hague visited Thailand. Recently, the deputy foreign ministers of both countries held the inaugural meeting of the Strategic Dialogue covering a wide range of issues, including trade, defence, visas and crime. Compared to his two immediate predecessors who witnessed political turbulence and courted controversy, Ambassador Kent so far has a fairly smooth run as Britain’s ‘man’ in Thailand. >>

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Insight

Q&A|Ambassador in focus

Every bit the archetypal Englishman – wiry in build, conservative in dress and generally understated – he is in fact a highly educated, well-travelled, multi-lingual diplomat who spent more than a year studying at three Thai universities to learn the local language and to understand the complexities of Thai culture and politics. He’s also remarkably affable, and is increasingly winning over the local British community with his back-to-basics approach to embassy operations. He jogs in Lumpini Park, supports Arsenal and has even been known to turn out for the embassy football team. The major focus of his four-year term here is on trade and investment, promoting them in both directions. Bilateral trade between the two countries was worth around 250 billion baht last year. The UK is one of the largest EU exporters to Thailand and many UK companies have a strong presence in the kingdom, including Tesco, Boots, Rolls-Royce and PCS. Linking the UKTI to the BCCT is expected to enhance British interests here. “Thailand is one of 20 countries pinpointed by the UK government outside the established markets where the UKTI works with the local chamber of commerce. It’s an arrangement that provides British companies with a mix of benefits by working with the embassy, the UKTI and the chamber. “Most British businesses are familiar with what is required to sell into, for example, Belgium. In other countries outside the EU they need more assistance, and that’s why we have a bigger staff than before,” explains Mr Kent. Unquestionably, one of the biggest dilemmas facing British companies operating in Thailand is their compliance with the

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“We have made clear that we want to open up investment possibilities in Thailand, and that includes property ownership.”

UK Bribery Act, which states unequivocally that bribery of any kind is regarded as a crime under British law. How can they operate effectively when corruption and bribery are now widely acknowledged as a growing component of everyday business life here? The ambassador’s advice is simple, though arguably unrealistic. “Walk away from corruption, and say you can’t be bothered with it.” He’s serious on this issue and cautions that even bribing traffic police is an offence under the Bribery Act. To back his words, Mr Kent adds solemnly: “I am under obligation to report any British nationals involved in bribery or corruption.” Crime committed in and from Thailand is handled by a full-time officer. These range from the activities of boiler rooms and internet scams to pornography and child sex offenders. The ambassador admits that prosecution is often difficult because the crimes are not committed on UK soil and are therefore under the jurisdiction of Thai authorities. In addition to contract workers in various departments with regional remits, the embassy has officers covering bilateral and multilateral cooperation, consular affairs, economics, crime, and staff from the Home Office covering visas. The position of defence attaché has been switched from Kuala Lumpur back to Bangkok. The issuing of visas remains a core responsibility of the embassy. As part of its growing role as a regional hub, it also covers this particular function for Burma, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia as well as Thailand. The embassy’s visa section almost certainly comes in for more criticism than any other department, usually and unsurprisingly from people whose applications have been rejected. A number of reasons are given for rejection; common ones include a person’s inability to persuade the immigration officer that he or she would return to Thailand after visiting the UK or their inability to show they can support themselves whilst in the UK.>>

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Q&A|Ambassador in focus

Mr Kent admits he has no statistics on the number of Thais who have actually failed to return, though offers to obtain it at a later date. He defends his embassy’s overall performance, citing that “95% of Thais who apply have their visa granted. It’s all about striking a balance between ensuring we have the right checks while making it as easy as possible to apply for a visa. We judge each case on its merits.” He adds: “Thais, along with Chinese tourists, are the biggest-spending visitors in the UK, so we want to do all we can to encourage them to visit the UK.” He also is keen to dispel rumours that the visa fees are somehow split with VFS, the Dubai -based company owned by travel giant Kuoni of Switzerland which manages the visa application centres here in Thailand and elsewhere across Asia. “The visa fees go to the UK government. VFS revenue comes from two sources – from their contract with UK Visas and Immigration for the administrative services they provide in handling visa applications and from the added-value services they offer in their centres,” he insists. “The government wants to ensure a proper visa system is in place. We’re always looking at the visa service from a customer standpoint – and if people have something to say, we’re keen to know, and to look at the problem so that we can refine our service. Last year we launched a priority service, which has been a great success, and this week we will expand this service to more customers, including anyone travelling for business, investment or work purposes.” Turning to the subject of rules, regulations and fee structures for a host of other embassy services, he says: “We’re a bit like the Post Office, in that we don’t have discretion on many issues, which are global rules or prices. The decision-making process is entirely with the British government.” He also distances the embassy from responsibility for the rigorous questioning and health checks required of students applying for visas to study in the UK. “It’s all about global standards set by the government,” he says. “And whilst we don’t set the rules, they are about helping to control abuse of the UK’s immigration system and making sure those going to the UK won’t pose a health risk. “The questioning of students during the application process is a very simple, short process of just a few questions and the TB test requirement is in line with World Health Organisation recommendations and consistent with what other countries ask of anyone going to work, study or live in their country for a long period.” Asked why students are given a choice of only two hospitals in Thailand to test for TB, the ambassador explains that visa applicants can only use health clinics that are accredited by UK Visas and Immigration and that the International Organisation for Migration manages the TB testing process on the embassy’s behalf in Thailand. With nearly 900,000 British nationals visiting Thailand every year, tourism is another major consideration. This is especially valid as this country now ranks second in the world (after the Philippines) in terms of the number of British nationals needing consular assistance in proportion to the number of visitors and residents. The ambassador has been at the forefront of recent attempts to make travel here safer with his appearance on a nationwide TV campaign to tackle tourist scams such as jet-ski rip-offs. He’s also visited popular resorts like Phuket to raise awareness of

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British holidaymakers about safety on the roads and sea, and to stress the need for proper travel insurance. It’s a delicate balancing act, he says, between creating awareness and overplaying the dangers to British nationals. “This embassy and other EU embassies offer regular travel advice updates on their websites.” Some would argue that Britons living in Thailand either as local employees or retirees need assistance with regard to such domestic matters as visa regulations and even land ownership. If the embassy is prepared to lobby on behalf of major UK companies, as it did in the case of the Scotch Whisky Association over counterfeiting, why doesn’t it also look after the little guys? “Actually we do,” says the ambassador. “Apart from promoting fair and ethical business practices, we lobby on local issues such as bureaucracy, including the 90-day reporting rules and documentation to see if it can be streamlined. If there are other issues related to British citizens, we can also assist. “Thailand has its own laws regarding property ownership, I haven’t lobbied personally on this particular issue, but we have made clear that we want to open up investment possibilities in Thailand, and that includes property ownership.” Embassy Facebook: www.facebook. com/ukinthailand / Embassy Twitter: twitter.com/ukinthailand / Ambassador twitter:@Kentbkk / Embassy website: www.gov.uk/world/thailand

Mark Kent in focus Born 1966. Married with two children.

Career

August 2012 – Present: Ambassador, British Embassy Bangkok Nov 2010 – Aug 2012: Full-time Thai language training, London and Thailand (Khon Kaen University, Chiang Mai University, Chulalongkorn University and Sumaa Language Institute) Dec 2007 – Nov 2010: British Ambassador Hanoi, Vietnam 2005-2007: Deputy Director Migration, FCO London. 2004-2005: International Affairs Adviser to Supreme Allied Commander, Europe (NATO - Mons, Belgium). 2000-2004: Commercial Counsellor and Consul General, British Embassy Mexico City. 1998 – 2000: FCO Spokesman covering Middle East and Kosovo conflict. 1993-1998: First Secretary (External relations) UK Permanent Representation to the European Union, Brussels. 1989-1993: Second Secretary Press and Political, British Embassy Brasilia. 1987-1989: Assistant Desk Officer, Near East and North Africa Dept, Foreign and Commomnwealth Office (FCO) London

Qualifications • MA (First Class Hons), Law, Oxford University (1983-1986) • Licence Speciale en droit europeenne, Universite Libre de Bruxelles (1986-1987) • Postgraduate Certificate in Business Administration, Open University (2007) • Languages: Thai, Vietnamese, Spanish, French, Dutch, Portuguese

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Insight

Art|The man who makes us smile

With Stephff’s cartoons, the joke’s on us ■ HE’S this country’s best known and best-loved foreign cartoonist by a long shot, with drawings that brilliantly capture the fun side of expat life and the community’s often hapless but thoroughly amusing attempts to understand the complexities of Thai society. Occasionally he veers off course to take a light-hearted dig at Thai politicians, knowing full well that satire – especially from farangs – usually doesn’t go down well in such lofty circles. But after 24 years in Thailand, Stephff is very aware of how far he can go and the barriers he faces with his singular brand of humour. Happily for us, Stephff is a regular contributor to The BigChilli (see page 98). A testament to the cartoons’ enormous popularity are the number that have been cut out and pinned on the walls of pubs and bars (and probably private homes too) right across town. They’ve even gone international, appearing in no less than 15 publications around the world as well as The Nation and Le Gavroche here in Thailand. Earlier this year Stephff opened his own art gallery on Soi Yenakat, where he creates and sells what he calls “tribal graffiti” – exotic inked images of medicine men, alien-looking creatures and abstract swirls that come unmistakably from his hand. “One day I just decided that I would give it a go,” explains this 47-year-old Frenchman. “So I basically picked up the ink and all these images started flowing. I really don’t know where they come from, but I guess it’s got to do with collecting tribal art for so many years.” These unique works of art sell for a maximum of just 5,000 baht. His original cartoons sell for less and are snapped up very quickly by his legion of admirers. Stephff, who married a Thai lady last year, is now hoping to expand his repertoire further with drawings and graphics for the movie industry. Until then, expats and appreciative Thais can continue laughing at his wonderful sense of humour. Stephff’s Gallery is open Mon-Fri, 2pm-7pm; Sat-Sun 1pm-7pm (or by appointment). Stephff’s gallery, Supreme Ville, 38/56 Yenakat Road Tel 02 6713535 email: stephff@loxinfo.co.th

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Insight

Feature|Online pharmacies

Dark side of online pharmacies

By Maxmilian Wechsler

Buyers of drugs through the internet beware – they may not be what they seem and you could also face a hefty fine, or much, much worse

International, a leading law firm in Thailand, explains here some of the pitfalls when dealing with online pharmacies.

No place in Thailand

W WITH their eye-catching designs and grandiose promises, websites are increasingly luring people to buy all kinds of drugs and medicines from online pharmacies. But there’s a dark side to many of these sites, as ordering drugs from them could seriously harm your health and leave you vulnerable to credit card fraud. You might also find yourself in hot water with the Thai authorities. Dr Atthachai Homhuan, who has 15 years’ experience as a pharmacist and currently works as a senior consultant for the Regulatory and Intellectual Property (IP) Affairs division at Tilleke & Gibbins

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“Online pharmacy websites are extremely popular in Thailand with the booming of the internet and the social media,” said Dr Homhuan. Every business would like to go to the electronic market because it is faster and direct to the consumer. We don’t know how many websites there are but there are a lot. “To set up an online pharmacy is very easy. Anyone can do it from any location, acquire drugs from anywhere, including pharmacies in Thailand, and ship them anywhere,” Dr Homhuan said. “An online pharmacy is an establishment that operates over the internet and sends medicines to customers by post, shipping companies or couriers. They can be divided into three categories: Legitimate pharmacies operating within the same country the person is ordering from; legitimate pharmacies operating in a second

country; and illegal pharmacies involved in various criminal activities, including the sale of counterfeit medicines.” Crucially, the operation of any online pharmacy within Thailand – whether it sells legitimate medications or otherwise – is illegal here, added Dr Homhuan. This is not the case in many other countries, including the United States, where they can operate legally without a fixed location. The Thai Drug Act B.E. 2510 (1967) explicitly prohibits the operation of online pharmacies as it requires that drugs be dispensed only by pharmacists on duty from a fixed address. Therefore the Drug Act does not allow a “virtual pharmacy” system. It also says that pharmacies must have suitable facilities and equipment, such as machines to dispense and count tablets and refrigeration units. The law covers only the sale of pharmaceuticals like medicines, but not health supplements such as certain vitamins, fish oil, and whey proteins. “Thailand doesn’t have a law governing the online sale of pharmaceutical products because the Drug Act came into effect in 1967, before the internet and even personal computers existed. The Drug Act is very outdated

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and amending it has not been a priority for the Thai government. I hope that, in the future, online pharmacies can operate legally in Thailand and be effectively monitored by the government,” said Dr Homhuan. The Thai Food and Drug Administration (FDA), an organization under the Ministry of Public Health, is operating under the guidelines of the 1967 Drug Act while a newer act written in 2003 is in the final stages of promulgation. When it becomes effective, many features will be changed accordingly, said Dr Homhuan. “Many people in Thailand are now taking advantage of loopholes presented by a lack of regulation and selling counterfeit medicines that may contain dangerous ingredients and create deadly risks for patients. The medicines are normally placed in packages labeled as gifts or samples and posted through registered and express mail to customers in Thailand and especially abroad. “In Thailand online websites consist mostly of advertisements with an e-mail address so the customer can contact them. From my experience, they operate without good ethics. Drugs should be prescribed by a doctor and dispensed by pharmacists. If someone who doesn’t have the knowledge can sell products like this it is very dangerous for the patient.” He added that legitimate pharmacies in Thailand can and do operate websites, both in Thai and English, but even if they have all necessary permits and licenses they can’t advertise or give any information about the drugs available in their store. “This is illegal. What they can do is promote their store and present advisorials; for example, on the value of exercise, how to prevent hypertension, control blood sugar and so on. They can publish the address of the store as well as email address, telephone and fax numbers. “Illegal online websites originating in Thailand are offering drugs banned or restricted by the FDA. The drugs could also be counterfeit, expired or go bad during transport which cause serious harm or even death. What’s more, customers are at risk of legal action being taken against them by the FDA or Customs if banned or restricted drugs addressed to them are found, for example at a post office. Credit card information

can be stolen because most of the people running illegal online pharmacies are criminals. Another problem is that minors can order controlled substances. “Ordering drugs banned or restricted in Thailand, which may be legally ordered online in other countries like Canada, the UK or US, won’t excuse customers from prosecution in Thailand,” Dr Homhuan warned. “Some Thai pharmacies promote their stores on social media like Facebook or Twitter and use this channel as an online pharmacy, but if the FDA finds out about them they may be prosecuted, especially if they are offering risky drugs.

“Apart from that, many medicines offered by pharmacies online are intended to treat sexual dysfunction. Medicines like Viagra should be prescribed by a doctor. In addition, there are a number of medicines, like those for allergy rhinitis, which are banned in Thailand or only available with a doctor’s prescription. “I want to emphasize that online pharmacies commonly dispense strong drugs classed as narcotics, like for pain relief, and also psychotropic medications and sleeping pills. These drugs are often misused and as a result create social problems. They are also extremely dangerous when mixed with other medicines. “However, you can find all of these products offered in Thailand on the internet, usually in the form of a spam email.”

D

The government is watching

Dr Atthachai Homhuan

“In addition, they need to be careful about advertisements. For example, they cannot say that they sell oral contraceptives or drugs for erectile dysfunction. “The FDA can’t do very much against websites that originate abroad but they can take action against those originating in Thailand.”

Dangerous drugs

The FDA is also watching online pharmacies that send out illegal and potentially dangerous medicines that induce abortion. “These are used by women with an unwanted pregnancy and who are afraid or ashamed to consult a doctor. Almost all illegal online pharmacies offer these medicines,” Dr Homhuan said.

Dr Homhuan said the FDA coordinates with the Ministry of Information and Communication Technology (MICT), which takes care of electronic websites and also with the National Broadcasting and Telecommunication Commission (NBTC) to monitor the advertisement of healthcare products via the internet. “Recently, the FDA hosted a seminar with the NBTC regarding the advertisement of healthcare products via electronic media. The seminar was beneficial for entrepreneurs and other business people working within the healthcare sector. Attendees discussed what kind of advertisements should be allowed on the internet, radio and television. “Some Thais order drugs from online pharmacies based abroad or websites like eBay or Amazon because they can’t find them in Thailand or they are more expensive here. “On the other hand, people in the United States or Europe say that some products available in Thailand, made by the company holding the patent are identical in quality and much cheaper in Thailand than in their own countries.” In fact, the purchase of veterinary drugs and vaccines for animals in Thailand by foreigners has long been a topical issue and many foreigners are now looking to buy these products from online

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Feature|Online pharmacies

operators in Thailand. Dr Homhuan cautioned that drugs for animals or people that are imported to Thailand must be registered properly with the Thai FDA. If a specific product is not registered it is illegal to sell it in Thailand. “It is not only medicines people are ordering online but also cosmetics and health supplements. “This is another ‘grey area’ because the products can be imported, then advertised on social media and the business can start. Websites offering cosmetics and health supplements aren’t illegal but the products must also be registered correctly with the Thai FDA as a safeguard to ensure safety, quality and effectiveness of the products.”

Dead on deliver y

via the general postal service, and if the person ordering is lucky the parcel will go through. Some packages are opened and checked by the post office or Customs. If Thai authorities find banned or regulated medicines, especially narcotics, they will seize them and find

Operation Pangea VI

ACCORDING to INTERPOL, some 100 countries took part in a recent global operation to disrupt the criminal networks behind the illegal sale of medicines online, resulting in 58 arrests worldwide and the seizure of 9.8 million potentially dangerous medicines worth around US$41 million. As the largest ever global internet-based operation focusing on illicit websites selling fake or counterfeit medicines, Operation Pangea VI engaged police, customs and national regulatory authorities to target websites supplying fake and controlled medicines. Operation Pangea VI, held between June 18-27 this year, was coordinated by INTERPOL, the US FDA, the World Customs Organization, the Permanent Forum of International Pharmaceutical Crime, Europol, other law enforcement organizations and medical organizations, as well as companies like Visa, MasterCard and PayPal.

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the person the parcel is addressed to and punish them according to the law. “However, if it is not an illegal drug and the person can provide evidence they need the product, no legal action will be taken. If the person – and this applies mainly to foreigners – orders a drug which is only available on prescription in Thailand, he or she can show proof of prescription to the FDA and Customs. The buyer then has to pay a tax and the product will be delivered to them. However, in most cases the products are destroyed.” International courier companies operate under strict regulations and if they suspect a shipment could have some problems they may reject it in the first place. “As for deliveries from online pharmacy distributors to customers in Thailand, the buyer will transfer the payment to the seller’s bank account. After the seller has received the payment, the seller will schedule a date with the buyer for delivery of the products. Frequently, sellers will request deliver of the products via messenger or motorcycle taxi. “In contrast to other online businesses, it is not common for the buyer to use credit cards and expect that their orders will be delivered to their homes. This is because online pharmacies in Thailand are considered an illegal business.”

Be careful when you consider buying drugs online. Do not think just in terms of saving 100 or 200 baht. These products can be harmful as we don’t know what is in them. It is very difficult to establish the quality of drugs and medicine.

“Imagine, when you order a medicine from another country it will pass through many steps,” said Dr Homhuan. “Variations in temperature alone can cause the product to deteriorate. What’s more, online sellers can give the customer anything – it may be expired or counterfeit. It is very difficult for the customer to really know what he or she is buying. The packaging could say, for example, Viagra, but inside contains something else. “Many times the Thai FDA has found products sent to customers that were counterfeited and contained

A

totally different ingredients which could endanger health or even life. Therefore, the Thai government is trying to educate people to avoid consuming or ordering medicines through the internet. “Medicines ordered by customers in Thailand are usually sent by parcel

Insight

A dedicated operations centre at INTERPOL’s General Secretariat headquarters in Lyon, France served as a centre for information exchange among the participating countries and agencies. During the week-long operation, more than 9,000 websites linked to online pharmacies were identified and shut down. In addition the operation resulted in the suspension of payment facilities of illegitimate pharmacies and the disruption of a staggering number of spam messages. As well as the raids at addresses linked to the illicit pharmaceutical websites, about 522,000 packages were inspected by customs and regulatory authorities, of which 58,000 were seized. Among the fake medicines seized during Operation Pangea VI were antibiotics, cancer medication, anti-depression pills, food supplements and erectile dysfunction medications. “Transnational criminal networks are taking advantage of the internet to deceive consumers into buying fake and often dangerous medicines

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T Counterfeit control

The role of Tilleke & Gibbins is primarily to assist their corporate clients in monitoring counterfeit products. “We coordinate with the patent-holding company and if we can find the source of the counterfeits we inform them and help provide appropriate measures to prevent and eradicate the problem,” explained Dr Homhuan. “Sometimes dissatisfied customers of online pharmacies will also contact our law firm.

“In either case we will contact the FDA through our IP department and try to work out a solution. The FDA works with other organizations such as the Department of Special Investigation and MICT that have the authority to investigate internet-related crimes. The FDA is very strict in Thailand but they don’t have enough manpower, especially

now when the lawbreakers can take advantage of advanced technology.” Dr Homhuan said the majority of pharmacies in Thailand comply with the Drug Act but some persist in selling counterfeit products because they can make a lot of money. He warned, however, that there are tough penalties for those who violate the Drug Act by running online pharmacies, including high fines. “At first the offender will be charged under the Drug Act. The FDA will investigate whether or not the particular website advertised anything illegally. If they find that it did, they will impose the relevant penalties. If the case impacts on the health and safety of the consumer, penalties under other laws such as the Psychotropic Substances Act and the

with a wanton disregard for the health risks this poses to unsuspecting buyers,” said INTERPOL Secretary General Ronald K. Noble. Aline Plançon, Assistant Director of INTERPOL’s Medical Products Counterfeiting and Pharmaceutical Crime Sub-directorate, said: “Ultimately, we hope that by increasing public awareness of the risks associated with illegal online pharmacies, people will take greater care the next time they turn to the internet to purchase medicines.” Raids in Thailand and the US AS a part of Operation Pangea VI, Thai FDA agents together with police last June seized counterfeit Viagra tablets produced illegally in Bangkok worth more than 10 million baht following a raid on the offices of an illegal online pharmacy in a building off Sri Nakharin Road. Other kinds of counterfeit medications were also found. The raid followed a complaint received by the FDA.

Narcotics Act can be imposed.” In closing, Dr Homhuan had this advice for potential online pharmacy customers: “Be careful when you consider buying drugs online. Do not think just in terms of saving 100 or 200 baht. These products can be harmful as we don’t know what is in them. It is different from products like clothes, which you can judge the quality by the workmanship, or foods, which you can taste and smell. It is very difficult to establish the quality of drugs and medicines. “If you suspect you have beeen given a counterfeit product, contact the FDA or our law firm. We will contact the company that makes the legitimate product to investigate the matter. We are working closely with the FDA, and if we can overcome this problem we can improve the quality of life in Thailand.”

The police arrested one man who was allegedly in charge of the operation. He faces four charges related to production and marketing of medications without a license. According to the police, the suspect was marketing the medications through two US-based websites. Thai authorities say the suspect distributed his medications to a licensed pharmacy which has had its operating license temporarily suspended. In another action, the US FDA together with other agencies closed down the websites of 1,677 illegal online pharmacies in the US during the crackdown in June. Many of the closed sites were allegedly offshoots of an organized crime network and displayed counterfeit medical licenses to convince people that the medications they were buying were legitimate. This operation also targeted websites selling unapproved drugs that might pose health risks because of uncertainties in their ingredients. The operation involved the screening of medicines intercepted in international mail facilities.

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Insight

Business|Marketing

Languages of Love – in business! Pacharee Pantoomano-Pfirsch, co-founder of Brandnow.asia, explores how the lexicon of romance can also work wonders for your job ■ THE first time I heard the phrase “The five languages of love,” a multitude of images came to mind: a walk on the beach, a bouquet of flowers, a candlelit dinner. But the friend who introduced the concept to me stopped me in my train of thought. He went on to explain that Gary Chapman’s book outlines the five languages of love and these are 1) Quality Time, 2) Gifts, 3) Words of Affirmation, 4) Acts of Service, and 5) Physical Touch. From that discussion, I thought about how this pertains to our daily interactions with customers, colleagues and their language of love. To find out more, I visited the website www.5lovelanguages.com and ended up taking a quiz to see what my number one language of love was. Before revealing my answer, I want to share with you the interpretation of the language of love. Quality Time For some, quality face time is paramount. This is especially true for a new potential customer. To make these prospects feel secure and relaxed before solidifying the business relationship, multiple meetings, including some over a meal, may be required. After sealing the deal, consider scheduling recurring meetings to ensure regular quality time. Gifts A gift in the professional setting comes in many forms. You may want to send a hamper to your client for the holidays or give them something they could use in the office like a thumb drive, or a store value card from the local coffee shop. Another kind of gift could be an industry report or a news article that’s important to the customer. By taking this action, you’re showing that you’re keen to nurture the relationship. Words of Affirmation Generally speaking, everyone likes

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to be appreciated. Words of praise from suppliers, colleagues, and supervisors can do wonders for the person who values affirmation as a language of love. To make this person happy, give compliments or surprise them with a thank you card to show your gratitude.

Act of Ser vice This language of love is about being helpful. If a friend at the office is overloaded with tight deadlines, offering a helping hand would mean the world to them. If

Not to miss! Networking at its best IF you are looking for a fun, exciting and effective way to meet with local professionals in Bangkok, don’t miss Bangkok Now (BNOW)’s Speed Networking evening on Thurs, Nov 21 at Hemingway’s Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 14 (BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit) from 7.30pm-10.30pm. B550 for BNOW members and B750 for nonmembers. Incl. appetizers and a welcome drink sponsored by Hemingway’s Bangkok. Successive drinks at happy hour prices. Book your seat before Nov 15 for 10% discount on event fee. Non-member special: book and prepay for two seats and pay membership price. Email: bnow@bnow.org http://bnow.org/event_new.html#speed

a customer has forgotten a file in your meeting room, offering to drop it off to them on the way home insures that you have a loyal customer that will return to do more business with you. Physical Touch In Asia, physical contact is often considered taboo. In the course of doing business in Bangkok, instead of the wai, we sometimes shake hands. There are those who approach the shake with gusto and others who oblige with a few limp fingers. By doing the latter, the person who values physical touch may think that lack of contact shows that you’re cold and may be unwilling to do business, though this may be far from the truth. In addition to the five languages of love defined by Chapman, there has been an argument to include food as a language of love. I tend to agree. Think of the expression, “A way to a man’s heart is through his stomach.” In many Asian languages, a guest is often asked “Have you eaten?” For many families, a meal at home or out with friends and family is a way of showing love. At this point, you may be wondering what’s your partner’s or key customer’s language of love. To know, simply listen. Do they talk about the gifts they received from another person? Do they frequently ask for face-to-face meetings? Consider how they treat you and others. Your partner or customers will give love in the same way they want it reciprocated. As for me, my number one is Act of Service. Pacharee Pantoomano-Pfirsch is a co-founder of Brandnow.asia, a boutique marketing and PR agency. Feel free to express love by sending business referrals to pacharee@brandnow.asia. Thank you!

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Gourmet p Wine and restaurant news

Dine like it's the 'Roaring Twenties' at New York Steakhouse's new Secret Society Sunday Brunch. See page 34.

What’s Cooking A round up of this month’s best gourmet deals. Yummy! Page 32

Meet the chef We speak to Chef Chanya Sangfai of Ping's Thai-Teochew Page 42

Dining out

Our favourite restaurants reviewed and listed Page 50 TheBigChilli

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Gourmet

Dining|News

What’s Cooking

Bangkok’s hottest dining deals and news Wine & Tapas Delights

UNTIL NOV 30 AT MARRIOTT EXECUTIVE APARTMENTS SUKHUMVIT PARK

■ SWING by Bistro M on Fri or Sat between 6.30pm-10pm and you can indulge in a Wine & Tapas promo featuring tasty nibbles and a selection of mains alongside free-flow wines for B990++ per person. Sukhumvit Soi 24 ☎ 02 302 5555 :marriott.com

Reminiscence of Sichuan

NOV 4-15 AT CONRAD BANGKOK

■ XIE Zheng Jie, Head Chef of the award-winning Sichuan Court at Hilton Shanghai, is coming to town to showcase his cuisine at the Conrad Bangkok’s Liu Chinese Restaurant. Sample signature Sichuan dishes such as Marinated chicken salad with spicy peanut sauce, Smoked duck with Chinese tea and herbs, and “Ma Po” bean curd. Alongside the a la carte dishes, a Dim Sum set lunch menu is B870 per person on weekdays, B900 on weekends. An eight-course set dinner menu is B1,500 per person. On Nov 8, a six-course Single Malt Whisky Dinner is B4,888++. 87 Wireless Rd. ☎ 02 690 9999 :conradhotels.com

Vietnamese specials NOV 22-30 AT ZETA CAFE

Top chef debut NOV 9 AT PARK SOCIETY, SOFITEL SO BANGKOK

■ CHEF Alain Pégouret of the Michelin-starred Restaurant Laurent in Paris makes his Bangkok debut this month with a gala dinner paired with Château Palmer’s finest wines. B17,600+ per person. 7.30pm onwards.

2 North Sathorn Rd. 02 624 0000 :sofitel-so-bangkok.com

■ ALL kinds of Vietnamese treats will be served at Zeta Cafe, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, when guest chefs Duong Cong Hung and Binh Dinh Duy from Crowne Plaza Danang take control of the kitchens to cook up signature dishes such as Banana Flower with prawn and herbs salad, Vietnamese hot and sour fish soup, Steamed whole fish Vietnamese style, and more. Buffet lunch, Mon-Sat, B399++. Daily Buffet Dinner, B599++. Prices incl. soft drinks. Sukhumvit 22 ☎ 02 683 4888 :holidayinn.com/bangkok22

Michelin talent at The Reflexions NOV 26-30 AT PLAZA ATHÉNÉE BANGKOK, A ROYAL MÉRIDIEN HOTEL

■ EXPERIENCE French-Japanese fusion cuisine at its finest when Chef Laurent Peugeot, owner of the one Michelin-starred Le Charlemagne Restaurant in Burgundy, France, arrives for a five-day stint at The Reflexions. B6,500 per person for a sixcourse dinner paired with wines. On Nov 30, a cooking class followed by lunch is B3,600 per person. 61 Wireless Rd. ☎ 02 650 8800 : plazaatheneebangkok.com

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Friday feast

UNTIL NOV 30 AT NORTHGATE RATCHAYOTHIN

■ AN indulgent treat is guaranteed every Friday night at Two Forty Eight Café & Bar, where a “Wine Buffet, Canapé and Tapas” promotion features two hours of free-flow house wine along with all-you-can-eat tapas for just B599. Served 6pm-10pm.

☎ 02 939 7949

248 Ratchadapisek Road :northgatebangkok.com

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Gourmet

Thanksgiving Dinner

Dining|News

NOV 28 AT THE IMPERIAL QUEEN’S PARK HOTEL

■ PARKVIEW restaurant is set to go all out this

Loy Krathong specials NOV 17 AT VARIOUS VENUES

■ IN honour of the late Supreme Patriarch Nyanasamvara Suvaddhana, who passed away last month, this year’s Loy Krathong celebrations are expected to be more low key. Traditional festivities will still be held at Bangkok’s top hotels though, including Krathong floating, Thai dance performances, and a range of gourmet feasts. Here are just a few of the options on offer:

Thanksgiving with a twist

NOV 28 AT NOVOTEL BANGKOK ON SIAM SQUARE

■ THE Square Restaurant is giving the traditional Thanksgiving Day feast a Seafood Twist this year by serving up an extensive buffet of seasonal favourites such as Roasted turkey, Smoked Texas BBQ pork ribs, and California BBQ chicken, alongside an abundance of fresh fish and seafood, Japanese Sushi and Sashimi, and house-smoked salmon. B1,050 per person.

☎ 02 209 8888

• Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok: International and Thai buffet dinner, Thai classical dance and live music, complimentary krathong. River Barge and Pier 28. B2,999++ for adults and B1,499++ for kids aged 6-12. ☎ 02 307 8888 or :chatrium.com. • Novotel Bangkok Bangna: Thai and international buffet dinner. The Square Restaurant. B890++ with complimentary Krathong. ☎ 02 366 0505 • Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside: “Ancient Sukhothai Evening.” Enjoy colourful cultural performances, entertaining live bands, the beauty of the Noppasmas Pageant, and an International Gala Dinner Buffet. B3,000 per person (half price for kids aged 5-12). ☎ 02 688 1000 :ramadaplazamenamriverside.com • Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers: Nang Noppamas beauty contest, modern Thai classical dance and music, and international buffet and BBQ dinner on the Riverside Terrace. B2,999++ per adult and THB 1,499++ per child. ☎ 02 266 9214 or :events.rosh@sheraton.com • The Siam: Enjoy a northern style market festival and live music, plus a traditional shared table four-course dinner of nine dishes. B6,500++ per person (incl. a bottle of house wine). ☎ 02 206 6999 :thesiamhotel.com

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Thanksgiving with a sumptuous buffet spread featuring Whole roast Butterball turkey with walnut and apple stuffing, sweet potatoes, Boston Bay clam chowder, an extensive selection of seafood, and more seasonal dishes for B1,600 per person (add B150 per person for free-flow soft drinks; B700 per person for free-flow wine, Champagne, and beers). 6pm-10.30pm. Sukhumvit 22 ☎02 261 9000 :imperialhotels.com

Siam Square Soi 6 :novotelbkk.com

Oyster treats at Wine Pub UNTIL DEC 31 AT PULLMAN BANGKOK KING POWER

■ FRESH from his visit to an oyster farm in Vendée, France, Chef Cyrille Vero is offering a special Fine de Claire Oyster No. 4 menu priced B388 for six pieces; B744 for 12. Enjoy the oysters served on crushed ice with lemon wedges, with a home-made French baguette with salted butter, and alongside a selection of traditional and Asian-inspired sauces.

8-2 Rangnam Rd. 02 680 9999 :pullmanbangkokkingpower.com

Secret Society Sunday Brunch AVAILABLE NOW AT THE NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

■ INSPIRED by the glimmering glamour of The Big Apple during the American Prohibition, the new Sunday Brunch at JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok’s New York Steakhouse – hidden behind two unmarked doors, ssssh! – is a classy affair that’s well worth a look. Rewind to the ‘Roaring Twenties’ and feast on a selection of fine steaks and seafood served straight to the table alongside a selection of exclusive wines. B2,400++ per person (add B1,350++ per person for free-flow wines and cocktails; or B950++ for three glasses of wine or cocktails). Advance booking is a must. 4 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 2 ☎ 02 656 7700 :marriott.com

New dishes at Firehouse AVAILABLE NOW

■ HEARTY burgers made with top quality beef have long been the order of the day at Firehouse Pub & Restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 11, but a few new menu additions have just made selecting a meal here that little bit more difficult. After all, it’s hard to resist the allure of new dishes such as the Meatball Mayhem Sandwich (B250++), Go Sloppy (sloppy Joe mix with shredded cheese topped with an onion ring in a freshly baked bun) and PickleO’s – beer-battered fried pickles, served with a side of ranch (B90++). Decisions, decisions… Sukhumvit Soi 11 ☎02 651 3643 :firehousethailand.com

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Pics|Events

Gourmet scrapbook

Last month’s foodie functions in focus

Indian wine showcase at Maya ■ INDIAN wines arrived in Bangkok in style with an exclusive pairing dinner jointly hosted by H.E. Mr. Anil Wadhwa, ambassador of India to the Kingdom of Thailand, and Mr. Harry Thaliwal, General Manager of Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, at the hotel’s Maya Restaurant. A five-course menu featured dishes from Maya’s ‘Inspired’ selection, with highlights such as Tandoor glazed duck tikka with crispy rocket and mesclun greens; and Mustard marinated salmon with prawn pickle, radish salad and olive naan crisp; alongside wines from India’s Sula Wines, Reveilo Wines, Renaissance Winery, and Grover Vineyards. The dinner was attended by editors and writers from Thailand’s leading magazines and newspapers.

Culinary accolades for Novotel ■ NOVOTEL Bangkok Platinum Pratunam’s culinary team scooped four medals and one certificate at ‘“Thailand’s International Culinary Cup in Food & Hotel 2013.” Led by Executive Chef Somkiat Buranachakorn, the team included Watcharee Anukhorwittaya, who received the Bronze Medal for “Pasta Cooking Style;” Pastry Chef Anutin Trivutti, who received the Bronze Medal for “Free Style Pastry Showpiece Display;” Kittima Watket and Sittisak Chatphacharakowit, who both received Bronze Medals for “Dress the Cake Live” (Cake Decoration); and Sompong Wisunray, who received a certificate for “Meat Cooking Style.”

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Beers with an Asian twist ■ BANGKOK’S new-found love for craft beers came to the fore in a superb beer dinner held at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, Siam Kempinski Hotel, where visiting Chef Henrik Yde-Andersen (founder of the Michelin Starred Kiin Kiin Restaurant in Copenhagen) presented a series of innovative Thai dishes paired with a new range of craft beers made exclusively for Sra Bua by the famed Mikkeller brewery. A feast for all the senses, the six-course menu was simply stunning, wowing diners with unique creations such as Egg Kiin Kiin (mushrooms fried with holy basil garlic and chilli, served in an egg shell) and Soy-glazed sweet pork ribs (served with ginger and caramelized cauliflower and five-spice fermented cabbage). The beers went down a treat too, especially the Thailand-inspired Kiin Kiin (lemon and lime), Dimsum (lemongrass and coriander) and Ricemarket (ginger and honey), which are now sold exclusively at Sra Bua. The dinner was attended by H.E. Mikael Hemniti Winther, Danish Ambassador to Thailand, and his wife, Ratanawadee, as well as media representatives and many food enthusiasts.

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Gourmet

Pics|Events

Jacob’s Creek brings ‘Wah’ to Bangkok ■ AUSTRALIAN and Japanese tastes met to delightful effect when Jacob’s Creek launched Wah, its tri-varietal blended white wine, with a special dinner party at Shintori Japanese Restaurant (18th floor, ZenWorld). Attended by numerous Bangkok celebs, the glitzy event featured servings of Salmon Sashimi, Ama Ebi Sashimi, Hamachi Sashimi, and more tasty dishes alongside Jacob’s Creek Wah Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc.

Festa Italiana arrives in Ratchaprasong ■ THE 2013 edition of the annual Taste it all@Ratchaprasong food festival was launched at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok with a mouthwatering showcase of Italian cuisine. Held until the end of November, this year’s event has a ‘Festa Italiana’ theme and will see chefs at the area’s seven top hotels (Centara Grand at CentralWorld, Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, InterContinental Bangkok, Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam, Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong and The St. Regis Bangkok) dish up special Italian menus priced B3,800++ per person. For more info see www.heartofbangkok.com.

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Dining|Insight

Absolutely Fabulous

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Michael Moore meets wine and lifestyle guru Benjawan Wisootsat and discovers she’s bubblier than a newly opened bottle of Champers A CONVERSATION with Benjawan Wisootsat will soon destroy any of those negative stereotypes you might be carrying around about Thai women. During our interview, I had the uneasy impression Ben was a couple of steps ahead of me and knew the questions I was going to ask before I did. Insightful, quick to understand and mildly conniving, she has a mind like a steel trap. She’s made her mark in Bangkok as the owner and managing director of fin – ‘fabulous is needed’ – a lifestyle company she and partner Jan Ganser formed back in 2003. Fin, which Benjawan says was created for people with “taste, class and individual lifestyles,” attacks the business world on several fronts: organising events, specialised catering, unique travel experiences, and importing wines from ‘boutique’ wineries. Although fin is probably best known as a wine importer, during our interview at least, it was organising events that seemed to dominate Ben’s fertile mind. When asked what type of events fin creates, her eyes lit up. “We do almost anything,” she says. “Private parties, corporate events, weddings, wine dinners and tastings – we do them all. We even do travel tours for small groups who want to see and do something different. We aim to create events that make an impact because of a stunning location, celebrity guest, outstanding food and wine – we want to do something unique and different.” I was surprised at her answer when I asked who did the cooking when fin caters an affair. “It is usually me,” she replies with a touch of vanity. “I love to cook and have enjoyed cooking and eating since I was very young. When we have an event, I try to create something that will satisfy our clients, but still 40

communicate that we are in Thailand. I spend a lot of time on research so we can have a menu that is unique, but still satisfying to the guests at the party. “At a party for the Minister of Finance for Germany, I created a noodle dish similar to khao soi because the German’s enjoy noodles. I combined

several German ingredients like Black Forest ham with the Thai sauce. It was popular because it had flavours with which everyone was familiar and like the party was a combination of German and Thai cultures. “When I travel, I make a point of eating local food and drinking local wine. I often try to find an apartment near a market so I can buy local food and experiment with it in the kitchen. It’s a great way to learn about food and ingredients and a great way to meet local people.” Since wine plays such a significant part of fin’s business, I asked Ben how she acquired an interest in wine. “I enjoy it and drink a lot of it,” she laughs. “Over the years I developed a strong sense of what I like and dislike and I found most of the wine sold in Thailand a big bore.” “What do you mean?” I ask. “Well, a few years ago drinking wine in Thailand was all about mass-produced wine from a few large companies based in a handful of countries. The wine was almost always red, and most likely,

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Cabernet Sauvignon. I found it boring and started drinking different wines when I could get them. I found I especially enjoyed white and rosé wines and that these wines were actually better matches for Thai food. “At fin,” she continues, “we look for quality wines from smaller wineries. We are on the lookout for good wines with something about them that makes them unique. We import wines from about 80 producers located in 18 different countries. And we only sell to 5-star hotels, resorts and restaurants. Our wines aren’t available in retail shops. We are a niche company and retail sales aren’t a part of our niche.” But why the interest in smaller wineries? After all some of the world’s most famous wines are from large wine producers. “Of course, but they also produce a lot of wine that all taste alike,” she retorts. “At fin we aren’t looking for assembly line wine. We are looking for something different and for wine that

"Private parties, corporate events, weddings, wine dinners and tastings – we do them all. We even do travel tours for small groups who want to see and do something different." has been produced with passion. This is why we sometimes import wines from areas that aren’t generally known for their wines – places like Lebanon, Greece and Switzerland. When I ask what she currently finds exciting about wine, Ben suddenly seems to wakeup. “Organic and biodynamic wines,” she says leaning forward in her chair. I know organic wines are made from grapes grown according to the same principles as other organic produce and that there is controversy over whether wines with sulphites added during production can be called ‘organic’. But I haven’t a clue about biodynamic wines.

Ben straightens me out. “Biodynamic wines,” she says, “are a lot like organic wines, but with even stricter requirements. When I met Nicolas Joly, the ‘godfather’ of organic wine, he told me that it is all about letting nature speak and not interfering with natural processes. It sees everything as a natural whole, including the phases of the moon and the positions of the planets.” I wasn’t quite sure I really understood what she meant, but it really didn’t matter. My chat with Benjawan Wisootsat had been a real eye-opener. Gone were many of the stereotypes with which I had started and in their place was the realisation that I had just chatted with a remarkable woman. For more info about fin see: www.fin-wine.com

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Gourmet

Chef in focus|Chef Chanya Sangfai

SERVING UP

All-time favourite restaurant? Yim Yim Yaowarat

Chef Chanya Sangfai Favourite cookbook? I love learning new techniques and dishes so I like every cookbook - especially ones with Thai recipes What is healthier – salt or soy sauce? Depends on the quality and quantities you add in to each dish

Ping’s Thai-Teochew Seafood Restaurant’s Assistant Head Chef talks about his favourite ingredients, signature dishes and VIP guests

Worst habit of local diners? Ordering too much food and then cancelling some of the dishes after they are full

Signature dish? Fried fish Maw with tiger prawns

Favourite utensil? Clay pot

Cool tempered or volatile in the kitchen? I am very cool and smooth; I never like being volatile or aggressive

Cooked for any VIPs or celebrities? Princess Soamsavali and Korean popstar Rain, among others

Favourite ingredients? Fish Maw, jumbo crab, and Chinese herbs

Worst kitchen disaster? When a large group of customers came to the restaurant and we didn’t have enough food to feed them all!

Traditionalist or modernist in the kitchen? A bit of both – traditional cooking techniques with modern presentation

Chef Chanya in focus ■ CHEF Chanya, also known as Kwan, grew up on a farm in Sakhonnakorn province, northern Thailand. When he turned 19 he travelled to Bangkok for the first time and began lodging with his relatives who worked at a Chinese restaurant. In a twist of fate, Kwan was also offered work at a Chinese restaurant – Ping’s in Asoke – where he started off as a kitchen hand and “never thought about becoming a chef.” Ten years later and he’s one of Ping’s top chefs and cooking is his number one passion. “The buzz and excitement of the kitchen just got to me,” he says with a laugh. “So I spent a lot of time learning recipes and techniques from the chefs and did all I could to become a good cook.” Kwan is now based full time at Ping’s Thai-Teochew (Pathumwan Princess Hotel), where he cooks up a wide range of authentic Chinese dishes, including his signature Fried fish Maw with tiger prawn. Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Rd.,

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☎ 02 611 4755 :pingsrestaurantgroup.com

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Dining|News

Bar Banter

Khun Wayo Kuhatasanadeekul

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The Bar Manager of Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam talks cocktails and bartending philosophy When did you first join Novotel Bangkok Platinum and what made you decide to work there? I joined the Novotel Bangkok Platinum team two months before the hotel first opened in November 2011. Novotel is a well-known brand of Accor group and it was my first preopening experience. It was a great challenge! What is your role at the hotel? As a Bar Manager, I lead the Platinum Lounge and Pool Bar operations; managing a team of six bartenders. Serving guests, creating and promoting cocktails are part of my daily routine. When did you first become interested in the F&B trade, and how did you set about making it a career? It’s like a fairytale; I was always looking at passionate bartenders creating cocktails when I was little. It was fascinating to see how the guests loved it and how cocktails can sparkle social evenings; it became my inspiration and I decided to pursue this career. Best thing about being a bar manager? Definitely customers’ satisfaction! You won the Thailand Classic Bartender Championship 2009, and in 2008 you reached the finals of both The Best Thailand Wine Sommelier and Mocktail Challenge competitions. What’s the secret to being an award winning bartender?

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It required long hours of preparation, dedication and a lot of practice to compete against the best bartenders of the country. My secret weapon was “creativity” to surprise the jury! Do you create lots of unique cocktails at Novotel Bangkok Platinum? When joining the Novotel Bangkok Platinum team, I was asked to create some signature drinks for the Platinum Lounge menu: “Platinum cocktail” was born. It’s a unique blend of Absolute Vodka Blue, Peach Schnapps and Apple Juice; it’s very popular amongst our regular guests. I create many other cocktails too, such as “Blue Sapphire” and “Refreshing Lime,” which are our welcome drinks. Best nights to visit the hotel for a drink? Saturday nights are great fun with the “Latino Caliente” promotion at Platinum Lounge. We serve up 10 varieties of my secret-recipe Mojitos like “Tom Yam” and “Icing,” and we have a Mexican Tavern backdrop where guests can take pictures. If they post and share their images on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, they will receive a complimentary Mojito. Finally, do you have a bartending philosophy? “Stimulate the mind and please the senses.” 220 Petchaburi Road, Ratchathewi :novotelbangkokplatinum.com

☎02 160 7100

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Dining|BB&B

Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy The BB&B dining group enjoys classic and rustic French favourites at Le Beaulieu

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NCE more, Chef Hervé joined Bangkok Beefsteak and Burgundy to present a great lunch to a full house of 20 diners. Proceedings commenced at the bar and patisserie where Thomas Nowak and Bruno Huber introduced us to a new cocktail, Pisco Sour aka Peruvian aguardiente (grape brandy) with lime juice. This made a great start to the meal, served with canapés for which Hervé is justly renowned. After the group was divided into two tables of 10, we were then served Original Tempura (Japanese mackerel) accompanied by Dr Bürklin-Wolf Riesling Trocken 2011 (Pfalz, Germany). Both were enjoyed by the guests. Roy Dean (wine spokesperson) found that the Riesling improved in the glass and that it was an excellent match to the Sous vide foie gras soulard served with figs and port. Our food raconteur, Simon Rindlisbacher, was duly impressed by the foie gras, and the delicious figs. Our original choice of wine to accompany the foie gras (Fox Creek JSM 2001 ‒ McLaren Vale South Australia) was held aside until later. A popular choice, the wine was adjudged to be the best of the day, notwithstanding

the label recommending its immediate consumption back in 2002! We then found Baked morteau sausage, heirloom tomato and lentil stew, bellpepper jus and Xerès vinegar, a tasty combination earning praise from all. Roy, however, was justifiably disappointed by the accompanying Chateau Ste. Michelle Merlot (Columbia Valley WA, US) with its shallow finish. The main course, Slow-cooked oyster blade, ratte potato and truffle jus, was excellent. The sauce was praised by Simon in his well constructed address and I learned that La Ratte potato is a favourite of French chefs, ideal for roasting and boiling. As with the merlot, Roy and a majority of drinkers did not find the E.Guigal Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone, France, to their liking, citing the harsh finish to the predominantly Syrah wine.

The dessert, Baked vanilla millefeuille and vanilla ice cream, provided a sweet conclusion for some; Taylor’s Port was at hand for those who also enjoy a sweet wine. The home-made millefeuille was delicious. Blue cheese stilton (young and old) followed, accompanied by 2001 Villa Matilde Falerno del Massico Vigna Camarato, Naples, Italy. I enjoyed the two servings of cheese and also the freshly baked bread available at each course. The last of the day’s wines was adjudged to be excellent; Campania, like many Italian regions, is home to an impressive array of grape varieties, some of which are found almost nowhere else on earth and its most important variety is arguably Aglianico. In customary style, we presented our thanks to Chef Hervé for a very special lunch and a collection of gratuities for his attentive and professional team of servers. Finally, OAP Grahame Fox generously shared with our gourmands a recent investment he made in malt whisky (20 year Dewar Rattray Cask Collection) to bring a successful conclusion to the proceedings. Le Beaulieu, Ground Floor, Athénée Tower, 63 Wireless Road 02 168 8220 :le-beaulieu.com

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Dining|Recipe

cut out and keep

Gourmet

Recipe of the month Seafood Nage (broth)

Enjoy a gourmet treat at home by following this delicious recipe by Gilles Poitevin, Executive Chef at Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa Ingredients Nage (broth) • Fish stock • Scampi’s head & shell • Carrot • Onion • Celery • Leek • Water • Whipping cream • Lemon

• Thyme • Butter • Fish stock • Salt • Vanilla pod • Espelette pepper • Pepper • Tarragon Oil

Seafood • Scampi flesh • Bouchot mussels • Scallop • Thyme • Bay Leaf

Nage (broth) • On medium heat, caramelize the scampi shells and vegetables. Cook until they soften. Pour the fish stock over the caramelized vegetables. Use the hand mixer to blend everything together, and then strain the stock through a fine sieve. Add a little bit of whipping cream. Season with unsalted butter, lemon juice and sea salt.

Glazed Vegetables • Carrot • Red Radish • Sugar • Butter • Salt Vanilla espilette beurre blanc • Shallot • White wine

Method

Seafood • Poach all the seafood in nage (broth); the bouchot for 90 seconds, scallops for 60 seconds, and scampi for 45 seconds (the flavours of seafood will be infused into

the Nage). Remove from the Nage and finish with unsalted butter, salt, and lemon. Glazed vegetables • Preheat a small pot over medium heat. Start with sugar, half cooked vegetables, butter, salt, and pepper. Cook until the vegetables are soft. Vanilla espelette beurre blanc • Caramelize shallot over medium heat, then deglaze with white wine. Reduce it by

quarter, then turn off the heat. Start to gradually incorporate the cold butter, piece by piece, into the hot pan. The butter will melt slowly; keep whisking it gently. Meanwhile add the vanilla seed and espelette pepper, and let them infuse into the creamy butter sauce. The sauce should be served warm and thick as a cream sauce. Serve everything together and finish the dish with a touch of Tarragon oil.

About the chef

Chef Gilles Poitevin 48

GILLES Poitevin is Executive Chef of Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa. After learning his trade alongside top chefs such as the multi-award winning Joël Robuchon, and furthering his career at international five-star hotels like Santiburi Beach Resort Golf & Spa in Koh Samui, Chef Gilles creates what he calls ‘gourmet art cuisine’ artfully presented dishes which take traditional French cuisine (made with the finest imported ingredients) and give it a modern spin. For more tasty dishes like the one featured here head to La Vue, Siam@Siam’s stylish French restaurant which, alongside its gourmet cuisine, also boasts a great view of Bangkok. Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa, 865 Rama 1 Road, Opposite National Stadium ☎ 02 217 3000 :siamatsiam.com

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Gourmet

Where to eat

Recommended restaurants and bars Japanese cuisine

American cuisine

Hard Rock Café

•This international icon

needs no introduction to anyone. From opening until 10pm, the Bangkok version is a restaurant serving casual American food while lots of good music emits from the sound system, and an attached retail shop does a booming business selling Hard Rock memorabilia. But after 10pm, HRC morphs into a different animal. Patrons under 20 have to leave, live music comes on stage and the place begins to rock. Always popular with Siam Square regulars and tourists from all over the world, this is one of those places everyone has to visit at least once.

Great American Rib

•Ribs, pulled pork and BBQ

chicken, staples in the Southern United States, are the specialities at this casual spot. Accompaniments include cornbread, curly fries and the city’s best coleslaw. Although there is an a/c dining room, most people opt for the authentic picnic tables outside, cooled by giant fans. Portions are gargantuan, the management amiable and the beer never stops flowing: an ideal spot for the entire family to spend a casual night on the town – American style. Sukhumvit Soi 36, midway between Sukhumvit Rd and Rama IV Rd 02 661 3801 (BTS Thonglor)

Siam Square, Soi 11 (BTS Siam) 02 658 4090-3 :hardrock.com

•This modern, but comfort-

able-feeling spot is packed into a compact and cozy building. There are three floors, two bars, an outdoor terrace, a walk-in wine cellar, and a

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Hagi

always offer a fun-packed culinary show, with chefs performing magic tricks, juggling salt shakers, and even throwing ingredients into the air before catching them in their hats. The food’s just as impressive, and alongside the sizzling meats (set menus range from B455++ to B4,500++) you’ll find an extensive selection of handcrafted sushi, sashimi and other raw seafood delicacies such as lobster, crab and oysters. Don’t miss the Fireball (B350++), a spicy tuna tartar and avocado roll laced with Thai sriracha hot sauce, spicy mayo and shaved scallions.

design to its extensive selection of sushi and sashimi made using fresh fish from Tokyo, Hagi has been delicately crafted from the floorboards up to offer a thoroughly authentic Japanese dining experience. The regular a la carte menu offers over 50 authentic dishes, featuring highlights such as Blue fin tuna ‘Maguro’ sushi (B190 for two pieces), Sashimi Mori Awase (assorted local raw fish. B320), and Pork Yakinuku (fried thinly sliced pork loin with onions and Yakinuku sauce. B145). On weekends and holidays, the restaurant offers an all-youcan-eat a la carte buffet for just B705 per person.

•Benihana’s Teppanyaki tables •From its elegant traditional

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn 02 476 0022 (compliRoad, mentary shuttle boat from Saphan Taksin Skytrain station every 20 minutes), Open daily 11.30am – 2.30pm, and 6pm – 10.30pm.

Circle

Benihana

walk-in cigar humidor. The cuisine is modern USA with Cajun/Creole dishes and some items best described as ‘Californian.’ The blackened halibut and the shellfish bisque with prawn and crab cake garnish make a visit here worth the effort. Circle is slowly gaining popularity with locals who drop in after work for drinks and tasty eats. Ruam Rudee Village, Soi Ruam Rudee (BTS Ploenchit) 02 650 8047 :circlebangkok.com

Shintori

•Japanese cuisine is taken to

new heights at this achingly hip establishment on the 18th floor of Zen World. Designed by Thai architect Duangrit

Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm 02 541 1234 ext. 4081 : centarahotelsresorts.com/cglb

Bunnag, the restaurant revels in its own minimalist splendor – a black and grey colour scheme, polished concrete walls, a sweeping glass wall offering a panoramic view of downtown Bangkok, and a large open kitchen where a team of 24 chefs prepares a wide range of sushi, sashimi and à la carte dishes with European flair. Zen World, Level 18. Open daily from 02 100 9000 5pm till late :shintoribangkok.com

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Italian cuisine

La Gritta

Operated by the Amari Hotel chain, this restaurant is open from breakfast till late. The menu covers the breadth of Italy and loads of seasonal dishes and promotions are offered. Although mildly upmarket, and the menu extensive, this is a great place for pizza and pasta. Conveniently located to the action on Sukhumvit Road; it fills with shoppers at lunch and revellers in the evening. Sukhumvit Soi 19 (BTS Asoke or MRT Sukhumvit), 02 255 7350

Angelini

Not just another Italian restaurant, Angelini has a large menu, excellent food, and a feeling of verve and excitement that is punctuated with live music in the evening. The restaurant is enormous, but the servers are courteous and attentive. The menu is contemporary and exciting and often strays far from what is typically Italian, but always includes traditional pizza and pasta favourites. A bar near the entrance is an integral part of the restaurant and serves a great selection of drinks and snacks. The Shangri-la Hotel, (BTS Saphan Taksin) 02 236 7777

Spasso

•Spasso is a Chameleon: It’s filled with

shoppers and office-types at lunch, family diners in the early evenings, and revelers late at night when the entertainment starts. It offers set lunches and numerous Italian dinner options, including signature dishes like roasted lamb loin in herb crust. Don’t want a full meal? There’s a large selection of appetizers, pizzas and pastas. The cocktail selection is enormous and several beers are available on tap. Cigar smokers appreciate the humidor with 25 different cigars. After 10pm, except on Sunday, the live entertainment starts, often with bands from North America. Lower level of the Hyatt Hotel at Rajdamri and 02 254 1234 Ploenchit Roads (BTS Chidlom)

Asian cuisine Voilà!

T Vientiane Kitchen

•Upmarket Laos and Isaan

food served in a bamboo restaurant constructed around a giant tree. Wildly popular with Japanese and Korean tourists who enjoy the beer, funky Isaan music and dance, and the chance to nibble on Lao-style eats. Although the spice level is toned down, the ingredients are from up country. Items like frog, duck’s beak and ant’s eggs are readily available should you be interested. This restaurant is always fun and a great place to take someone from out of town. Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS Thonglor) 02 258 6171

China House

•Without doubt China

House is one of the city’s best hotel-based Chinese restaurants. Aside from an incongruous clump of glass out front, the design of China House is as exciting as anything done recently in the Big Mango. The food could be horrible - it’s not - and people would still flock to the restaurant. The interior somehow manages to combine Chinese elements with a two-story central vault that is reminiscent of a medieval cathedral. Exciting stuff that’s going to be hard to beat. The Oriental Bangkok, (BTS Saphan Taksin, then take to hotel’s shuttle 02 659 9000 boat)

HE Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s signature all day dining restaurant Voilà! serves international buffet lunch and dinner to a superb ‘Cuisine on Stage’ concept – which basically means you can order most of your food from live cooking stations, including a Parisian-style rotisserie and an artisan La Cornue stove. The amazing selection of dishes on offer ranges from fresh seafood and oysters on ice to Parisian bistro selections (soups and casseroles), flame grilled rotisserie meats, Italian pasta, fresh pizzas, Asian favourites, and decadent desserts. A cheese room boasts a wealth of premium quality cold cuts and delightfully pungent cheeses from around the world, and there are even 100 bottles of wine to choose from, including 25 choices by the glass. Spoilt for choice? You bet it. Buffet lunch is B995; dinner is B1,450; and Sunday Brunch is B3,999 with free-flow sparkling wines, cocktails and house wines; or B2,600 with soft drinks.The last Sunday of the month a special Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brunch is B4,999. Every Fri and Sat night a Seafood Buffet is just B1,999. (Half price for kids aged 6-12).

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15 (between Nana and Asok BTS stations). 02 126 9999 ext. Voilà! :sofitel.com

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Gourmet

Dining out|Enoteca

Review

Enoteca Italiana Bangkok

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Small in size, big in character, this delightful restaurant provides plenty of pleasant surprises

DINERS looking for the authentic taste of Italy certainly aren’t spoilt for choice in Bangkok. Close your eyes and stab your finger at a map of the city and chances are you’ll point near an Italian restaurant; there’s literally hundreds of them. Problem is, the majority all ply the same selection of pastas, pizzas, and risottos ‒ tasty, yes, but hardly exciting. “If you really want to stand out as an Italian restaurant in Bangkok you must offer something unique,” says Nicola Bonazza, owner of Enoteca Italiana on Sukhumvit 27. “Our philosophy is to offer dishes you won’t find elsewhere in the city ‒ not fusion, not pizza, but authentic traditional dishes that wow diners with modern presentation and gourmet flair.” This may sound like the kind of spiel spun by any enthusiastic restaurateur, but Nicola is a man of his word: his slim two page menu, created by two-times Iron Chef champ Stefano Merlo, who has experience working alongside Michelin Star chefs such as Alfredo Russo, features many regional favourites rarely found

outside of Italy, each made with imported ingredients and served with the kind of presentation that delights all of the senses. The Golden onion cooked in salt filled with braised quail (B590), for example, is based on a hearty stewlike dish popular in Piedmont. Given the gourmet treatment here, the dish features a full onion, sliced across the top, packed with tender meat and bursting with flavour. Simple and delicious, it’s a triumph. Then there’s the Beef Carpaccio (B690), a staple at any decent Italian restaurant, given a unique twist at Enoteca thanks to the addition of a napkin that’s been boiled with lemon juice, cinnamon, star anise, and other herbs. You don’t eat the napkin, of course; you simply wipe your hands with it before picking up the meat and eating it. The scent on your hands adds an earthy complexity to the flavours, taking a wellknown dish to whole new levels of taste. “Many of our dishes require instruction before eating,” says Nicola with a laugh. “The idea is to offer a

39 Sukhumvit Soi 27, North Klong Toey (between Asok and Phrom Pong BTS stations)

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pleasant surprise with every dish we serve, giving diners a truly memorable experience.” Another such surprise is the Lamb rack roasted in herbs with violet Italian eggplants (B990++), which is served in two parts: veggies on a plate first, followed by lamb in a hot-pot over toasted rosemary. Expect rich, delicious flavours with every bite. Surprises aren’t only limited to the a la carte menu, either. Enoteca also offers set degustation menus, which feature new dishes every week, ranging from B1,500++ to B2,800++. The restaurant also boasts one of the most extensive selections of Italian wines in Bangkok ‒ over 400 bottles, including 29 Barolo reds. Set within a wonderfully renovated house fronted by a well-maintained lawn, Enoteca Italiana is a secret garden of sorts. Seating just 28, it features four floor-to-ceiling arched windows, exposed brickwork, a polished wooden floor, and mahogany tables topped with crisp white tablecloths ‒ think fine dining with a cozy atmosphere, and cracking service too.

☎ 02 258 4386 :enotecabangkok.com

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Insight

Business|Hotel talk

TURNING HOSPITALITY INTO ART: PRATARNPORN PHORNPRAPHA The Assistant Managing Director of Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa talks about the brandʼs creative approach to hospitality and what to expect from its latest project – the soon to open Siam@Siam Design Hotel Pattaya When did you first realise you had a passion for the hospitality industry, and what attracted you to it? My passion for the industry was born when I actually started working within the field – the art of hospitality is all about creating memorable experiences for people, and I immediately found this very rewarding. I was lucky as before taking on my role here I wanted to be an art major, and the Siam@Siam brand is all about flair and artistic content – enhancing experiences and redefining the essence of a modern hotel through creativity. We hear that you’re the mastermind behind the overall concept of Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa’s hip Party House One. Where did you get your inspiration? The idea was to create a metropolitan hang out where music enthusiasts can enjoy their time after work. So we created a venue which delights all of the five senses through live music, delicious food, artistic decor, and good value drinks. It’s a fun place to visit any night of the week. Does your talent for design come naturally or is it something you’ve learned? I’ve always been interested in art, although interiors was new to me when I joined the hotel. Thanks to our strong creative team, though, working on design concepts is always a pleasure. In fact, it’s one of my favourite parts when working on a new project. One of the projects you’re involved in is the up and coming Siam@ Siam Design Hotel Pattaya. Please can you tell us more about this property, as well as any other exciting developments you’re working on? The creation of Siam@Siam Design Hotel Pattaya was one of our main projects last year. We were lucky to find land in a prime location in Pattaya, which we snapped up, and began working on the concept right away – a concept which will be one step up on our current designs

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on the market, featuring unique and unusual decor as well as stunning restaurants and bars. The hotel will open its doors this December and we’re very much looking forward to welcoming our first groups of guests. Other than that, we’re constantly updating our products so that they remain fresh and exciting for guests. Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa Bangkok, for example, will relaunch The Roof restaurant and bar this November with the addition of the Play Zone (where guests can relax with snacks and drinks in a green rooftop area with great views) and our new French Restaurant, La Vue, led by our ex-Joel Robuchon chef, Gilles Poitevin. This year we also have the addition in Bangkok of Mode Sathorn Hotel, a 201 room property with five different food and outlets which has opened its doors and will have a full Grand Opening next year. How do you envisage the Siam@Siam brand developing over the next five years? We are currently rebranding and plan to launch the results after the opening of the Pattaya property next year. The brand is continuously being developed both from the software side as well as the hardware. We believe in constant reinforcement in creating a brand that is able to provide unique experiences for our guests. From next year onwards we will start taking management contracts under the name Siam@Siam Design Hotels. We are looking into management contract deals within the next couple of years before finding a suitable destination for our next owned project. Finally, when you’re not busy planning projects how do you like to spend your free time? Diving, yoga, reading, sometimes trekking too. I like to get outside of Bangkok and do activities where I can really see the other side of nature – such a contrast to Bangkok. Travelling is always top of the list whenever a break is needed, followed by good company to share the experience with. Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa, 865 Rama 1 Road (near National Stadium BTS) 02 217 3000 :siamatsiam.com

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Insight

Q&A|Mercure

Mercure man with a plan: Khun Veeranat Limprasutr

As GM of both the Mercure Krabi Deevana and Mercure Phuket Deevana, Khun Veeranat is one of the busiest men in the trade. His key to success? Foolproof planning…

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When did you first fall in love with the hospitality industry and what attracted you to it? I was introduced to the tourism industry at a young age; my grandfather owned a crocodile farm which he opened to visitors, and I’ve been involved with tourists ever since. Operating two hotels at the same time must be exciting but difficult. How do you split your time between the two? It is difficult but it is possible. I always plan my itinerary in advance – up to a year if possible – and I always have a minimum three months’ plan for both properties. Even if I have to revise these plans at the last minute, at least my team know in advance what their objectives are, and at which hotel I will be based. I also have my Hotel Manager in Krabi, my Hotel Manager in Phuket, and my Director of Sales and Marketing, who all do a great job of ensuring the objectives I set are achieved. I have opened many hotels before, but the Mercure Krabi Deevana, which opened in 2011, is the first property I have opened which actually allowed me to make plans for its opening two years before it was even constructed. As a result, this has made operating the hotel a much smoother process. When you joined Accor Asia Pacific in 2007 you were the group’s first ever Thai general manager. A proud achievement? It was a challenge to take up this position as I felt like I had a lot to prove. But I worked hard and have helped the hotels become successful so I am very proud. What’s more, since my appointment, more and more Thai GMs have now been employed by the company.

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What do you like most about your job? Shaping the hotels into successful businesses is one element I love, but what makes me happiest is helping the hotel staff to learn new skills and improve the quality of their lives. Visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to hotels in Phuket and Krabi. What sets your hotels apart from the competition? Accor has its own standard at all of its hotels around the world, and guests can expect great quality every time they stay in a hotel carrying the Accor brand. In Ao Nang, Mercure Krabi Deevana is the first and only property in the area managed by an international hotel operator, so in terms of staff training and quality of products we offer, we are much better equipped than other local hotel operators. The hotel also has the largest and most comprehensive meeting facilities in Ao Nang. As for the Mercure Phuket Deevana, this property is located in the heart of Patong Beach within walking distance of the Night Bazaar, entertainment areas and Jungceylon Shopping Mall, and provides something to suit all types of guests, be they individuals, couples, families or business travellers. Your schedule is obviously very hectic. How do you like to spend your free time, if any? When I do get free time my wife and I love to travel. I also travel a lot for business, especially in Europe and Asia, and everywhere I go I try to take a one day break to recharge my batteries, which, in this business, is always important. For more info see: ::mercurephuketdeevana.com ::mercurekrabideevana.com

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Insight

Business|Hotel talk

MEET THE GM: HARALD FEURSTEIN The General Manager of the Conrad Bangkok talks about his life and work in Thailand I am lucky to have been working with Hilton Worldwide for 15 years. My exciting career spans across several countries in Asia, including Japan, Korea, China, Malaysia, The Philippines and most recently, Thailand. I was appointed General Manager of Conrad Bangkok on October 24, 2012. Before my arrival to Conrad I served as General Manager of our new hotel, in Pattaya, the Hilton Pattaya, which I had the privilege to open and establish. Conrad Bangkok is recognized as the best convention hotel in Asia Pacific, so not surprisingly, our guests are predominantly from the field of international business; however, guests also do like to let their hair down at times and enjoy the vibrant side of Bangkok. So, regardless of where we are at, for us hoteliers, there is hardly a dull moment. Bangkok is one of Asia’s most cosmopolitan cities with so many exciting sights and sounds, not to mention the fantastic culinary experience all around. Complemented by the friendliest people in the world, it really has something for every type of traveler: ancient temples, luxury shopping malls, river cruises and exciting bars and restaurants. You haven’t really lived unless you have experienced the electricity of Bangkok. And the increasing numbers of tourists visiting Bangkok are testament to this. My family is with me here and my wife really loves life in Bangkok as much as I do. How could you not love Bangkok — it simply has got so much to offer and quality of life is very, very good. One aspect of Bangkok I’d like to see improved though is, without doubt, the traffic ‒ it takes forever to get around by car. Luckily, Conrad is located right in the heart of Bangkok and a two-minute walk to the Skytrain, which is essential for travel throughout the city. Hilton group is a wonderful company to work for, providing Team Members at all levels with rich experiences, learning and development opportunities and a solid career path. Engagement is key to motivating employees and Hilton takes great care to foster that engagement and trust.

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Hotels and hotel companies are constantly seeking ways to innovate and to improve upon our services. At Conrad Hotels & Resorts we have just taken it a step further: we recently launched the new Conrad Concierge App, which allows you to pre-check in before you even arrive at our hotel, pre-order food, beverages and other amenities and to generally tailor your specific requirements right from your smart phone or tablet before you even arrive. You can download this app by searching for Conrad Concierge and all your needs will be taken care of and ready for you by the time you arrive at Conrad Bangkok. At Conrad Bangkok, we seek to exemplify and deliver smart luxury. This we combined with the recognition we earned as the best convention hotel in Asia Pacific and our downtown location in the heart of Bangkok. Our bar and restaurants are well known, and for anyone who likes quality Jazz and R&B, the Diplomat Bar is the perfect venue for high quality evening entertainment and cocktails after a hectic day at the office. The hotel’s 7th floor is dedicated entirely for leisure and boasts lush gardens, the biggest hotel swimming pool in this area, two tennis courts, a rooftop jogging track, Seasons Spa, and Bodyworx fitness center. A real oasis of calm in the middle of a bustling city. Yet we are only minutes away from Lumpini park, which of course offers additional opportunity to retreat and relax in the lush greens or to keep even more active on the long jogging track or the many other forms of exercise on offer at the park throughout the day. Conrad Bangkok presents our guests with the luxury of being yourself. The wonderful thing about Thailand is that it is so diverse. You can be on the most beautiful beaches in the world one day, and elephant trekking through dense jungle the next day. I got into this industry because I love travel, so travelling is what my wife and I do in our free time. With Photography as one of our hobbies, we truly are in paradise as Thailand offers so many beautiful sights waiting to be captured. In between I do try to keep fitt, so if anyone would like to join me on the running track, you will find me in Lumpini Park early in the morning for a good run to start the day! See you there! ☎

87 Wireless Rd. 02 690 9999 :conradhotels.com

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Insight

Nightlife |Promotion

Hangovers be gone! Wake up feeling fighting fit thanks to the power of RESET

What’s the best way to take RESET?

■ IF, like many residents of always buzzing Bangkok, you’ve found yourself burning the candle at both ends a bit too often, consuming too many glasses of wine on your nights out, and usually waking up with a wooly head and no idea how you’re going to manage a full day of work – then you may want to check out RESET. A 100% natural dietary supplement manufactured in the United States, RESET helps to break down and eliminate alcohol and other toxins in our bodies, helping to mitigate or even prevent the usual after-effects of excess consumption of alcohol: the Hangover.

How does it work? The core ingredient of RESET is “Triclyst,” a powerful blend of probiotics, enzymes and small molecule metabolites that serve to rapidly increase the body’s natural metabolic processes. Although our bodies can already metabolize alcohol at a certain rate, anyone who enjoys drinking more than two or three glasses of alcohol a night is at risk of experiencing common symptoms of over-intoxication, such as a hangover, the next morning. These symptoms are even more intense once our bodies get older, as the liver works less efficiently with age when metabolizing toxins such as alcohol. RESET is ideal for productive nightowls; those who love to work hard and play hard, but also want to take care of

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themselves. Professionals of all ages who have to socialize at night but need to be ready the next day will also benefit from consuming RESET.

How safe is this technology? RESET has been certified and approved as a dietary supplement that is safe to consume by the Thai Food & Drug Administration. In addition, the “Triclyst” technology has undergone several tests internationally, with results validating that there are no detrimental effects to human health in the short or long term.

The main question: Does it really work? The “Triclyst” Technology in RESET has been scientifically proven to reduce blood alcohol levels in the body by up to 69% over 40 minutes. By breaking down alcohol, RESET is actually mitigating and preventing a hangover, not just masking or hiding the hangover’s symptoms.

The most effective way to consume RESET is to chew all three tablets after the drinking session or night is over, followed by a glass of water. Depending on body mass, metabolism and alcohol consumption, one pack of RESET might not be enough for heavier drinkers. Having two-three packs over the night will definitely do the trick!

Where can I buy it? RESET is for sale in leading pharmacies nationwide, such as in Watson’s, KS, Safe & Save, U-Care, Health Club by Wuttisak, Yaa Neung, Vitamin Club and Health & Pills. RESET is also available in many independent or local pharmacies in major cities across the country, as well as selected franchises of convenience stores such as Tops Daily, and selected hotels, bars, pubs and clubs in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Look for the trademark RESET arrow display! RESET is now available in leading pharmacies in Singapore, and will soon be available in Malaysia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. Contact us directly for more detailed information or access to all our research, science and validated studies! www.resetparty.com

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Expat WOMEN p Put your feet up and indulge

Bangkok’s make-up market is set to be given a vibrant boost this December with the arrival of Sephora. Page 70

BWWG

Enjoy the latest slice of fiction from the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group Page 74

Shopping

Hot new products and stores demanding your attention Page 70

Health

Nutrition expert Judith Coulson on diet pitfalls and how to avoid them Page 78 TheBigChilli

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Expat Women

Q&A|Expat Entrepreneur

Dance studio for rising stars ■ OPENED in 1996, Rising Star Dance Studio has trained thousands of Thai, Japanese, and international students in the art of ballet and dance. The owner, Fay Pansaringarm, is a professional ballet dancer from New York with more than 40 years of experience in both the local and international scenes. She brings to her studio cutting-edge techniques in producing a safe, natural, and expressive style of dance. The studio accepts students from the age of three through to adults. Rising Star offers related disciplines to supplement a dancer’s education, and each year produces a full-length professional ballet production.

Q. What is the nature of your business? A. Rising Star is a dance studio, focusing on classical ballet dance supplemented with jazz, flamenco, belly dance, rhythmic gymnastics and Pilates. Q. Are you 100% the owner? A. My husband and I are the owners and directors of the company.

Q. Where is your business currently based?

A. Fifty Fifth Thonglor building, third floor at 90 Soi Thonglor (Sukhumvit Soi 55). Q. When did you launch your business? A. 1996.

Q. How many students currently go to your dance school?

A. Approximately 250 students, of more than 30 nationalities, study at the studio and several hundred more in outside programs. Q. After ‘graduating’ from your school, where do students go to continue their ballet career? Do you help them? A. Statistically around the world only about 1 in 10,000 go on

to have a professional career, so for a professional career there are very few. With these special few I use my connections at the Rock School (Philadelphia), personal contacts in New York City, and I help students with recommendations and application videos to professional schools. A lot of people continue semi-professionally and may go into dance/theatre in university so I would also help them with recommendations and video auditions. Q. Any famous ex-students?

A. Maho Mashimo – who attended the Rock School for professional training for two years and is now dancing with the San Diego Ballet. 62

Fay Pansaringarm

Q. Was this your first business venture in Thailand? What gave you the idea?

A. This was my second business venture, I was freelance teaching and doing direct sales when I first came to Thailand, then I realized that I could and wanted to open my own business with my own studios and my own method of teaching. I think that I should have done this many years earlier but I didn’t have the guts to do it in a foreign country. Q. Did you have any experience in the dance sector before opening your business? A. I started dancing in 1974, and had over 20 years of experience dancing. I founded and directed a dance company in New York, so I was experienced in choreographing, fundraising, booking performances, and working with production before I even came to Thailand.>>

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Expat Women

Q&A|Expat Entrepreneur

Q. How long did you live in Thailand before you set up your business? A. Nine years.

Q. Was it difficult to start up your business here in Thailand? A. Well, there are always legal

requirements anywhere so it’s a standard procedure. My husband is Thai and I have Thai citizenship. If you get a good accountant and a good lawyer you know what you have to do. As for advertising/marketing, I didn’t have to do that because I had over one hundred students before I opened my business, so it was word-of-mouth – which is the best advertising of all. Q. How many people do you employ? Are they all suitably qualified?

A. I don’t employ a lot of people; I have a small number of teachers of high quality because I am only running one studio. Q. How difficult was it to find appropriate premises? A. With the amount of retail space available in Bangkok right now it shouldn’t be hard to find a space for anything. Location is everything and with children and families coming in and out it has to be easily accessible. What’s more important is to have enough space and then (for a dance studio) you build in what you need. Q. Is Thonglor still financially viable for a small company like yours, or are you considering moving? A. Absolutely viable with lots and lots of customers.

Q. Given your experience here, what advice would you give to others thinking about opening a business here? A. Do not overextend yourself in any business in the beginning. As you make your money, you reinvest it into your business and then you are financially solid.

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Q. If you could go back in time, would you do it all over again?

A. Sure – I would have done it sooner.

Q. What is the most rewarding part of running your business?

A. Watching people grow and improve.

Q. What or who has been the most valuable source of assistance for you as a small entrepreneur? A. The expat community, the Bangkok Guide, and local international schools. Q. How do you promote your business? A. Word-of-mouth promotion and through annual performances. Q. How do you see Thailand as a business base over the next 10, 20 years? A. If you don’t overextend in a business, there are fluctuations anyhow – you can ride the waves. Economy will go up and down anyway, and there seems like there are still many opportunities to happen here.

Fay in focus Born: 1958 Moved here: 1987 Training: Full scholarship: Harkness House for Ballet Arts, NY School of Ballet Performing: US Tersichore (NYC), Maryland Ballet, New Jersey Ballet Founded and Directed: RockVille Dance Company in New York City Thailand: Trained Contestants of Miss Thailand World 1992-2002. Numerous industrial shows, fashion shows, TV shows, concerts. Organizer for talent for APEC 2003. Lead role in Prince Yukol’s film “Sie Die 2.”

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Expat Women

Volunteering|NMV

The NMV: Making Thai history accessible to all For hundreds of newcomers and long-term residents of Thailand, common admiration of Thai art, history and culture has inspired them to join the National Museum Volunteers (NMV) to gain deeper insights into the workings of their host country. Who are the volunteers and what do they do? Ines Ehrlich explains ■ STOP by the National Museum Bangkok on a Wednesday or Thursday morning and you may be somewhat surprised to discover a group of trained expat and Thai English-speaking guides eagerly waiting to take you on a free guided tour of the museum. Twice a week, whether rain or shine, the dedicated National Museum Volunteers (NMV) await curious visitors to whom they passionately impart their knowledge on Thailand’s art, culture, religion and history, ultimately playing a unique role in promoting Thailand’s artistic, historical and cultural heritage. Formerly known as the Bangkok Museum Work Study Group, established in 1969, the National Museum Volunteers are a group of vibrant individuals made up of expats and Thais who share a love of Thailand’s art, culture and history. Through their voluntary work they have extended the National Museum to foreign visitors through the group’s core activity of guided tours which are offered twice a week in English, French, German and Japanese. Additionally, under the patronage of The Fine Arts Department (FAD) and the National Museum Bangkok (NMB), the

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NMV offers year-round cultural and educational activities to its members and the public at large. Activities include study groups, cultural excursions throughout Thailand and neighboring countries, symposiums, docent training, monthly lectures and an annual lecture series on art, culture and history. The group, a three-time recipient of the Thai National Heritage Preservation Award, also publishes books and runs a specialized library carrying more than 6,000 books on Asian Arts, and the culture, history and religion of Asian cultures. Beyond bringing a fervent group of like-minded people together to learn and share the knowledge of their host country – each at his or her own pace – members have forged lifelong friendships with fellow members that have long outlived their sojourn in Thailand. Members returning to their home base stay abreast of NMV activities through personal contacts, the NMV newsletter and the impressive website that is continually updated with new activities. >>

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Expat Women

Volunteering|NMV

Reunions of past and present members of the NMV family have taken place far and wide in locations such as Washington D.C, Tokyo, Paris, Munich and Frankfurt. For most, “Once a Member Always a Member” is no empty slogan, and membership in the NMV has been a most rewarding experience.

How it all began Looking back over four decades, it all began with the foresight of Chira Chongkol, the founder, adviser, supporter and inspiration behind the NMV group from 1969 until her passing in 1987. As a young curator at The Fine Arts Department, Ms. Chira incorporated her thesis on Educational Services to Museums into the National Museum system, and due to its enormous success it was decided to also extend it to foreign visitors.

To achieve this, Khun Chira approached a small group of women from the American Women’s Club urging them to become guides at the museum. They were immediately joined by an international group of friends who were inspired by the spirit and enthusiasm of this new endeavor. Looking back, it’s hard to envision the impact this small group eventually had on Thai museums and Bangkok society and the impressive scope it attained. Khun Chira’s later appointment as the first director of the National Museums’ Division of The Fine Arts Department in 1975 was instrumental in forming the strong bond between the NMV and Fine Arts Department that still prevails today and which is evident in many joint projects.

A fun way to learn To train as guides, the early group of expat museum volunteers was required to familiarize itself with the museum’s vast collection of artifacts. To do so, the group sought the help of noted Thai professors and scholars. Prince Subhadradis Diskul, dean of the Faculty of Archaeology, Silpakorn University became the NMV’s patron and mentor, and willingly shared his wealth of knowledge of Southeast Asian art with them in lectures and programs. Prince Subhadradis Diskul, the son of Prince Damrong, took great pleasure in impart-

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ing his deep knowledge to the volunteers. His student, Smitthi Siribhadra, followed in his footsteps as patron of the NMV. Dr Piriya Krairiksh, Dr Dhirawat na Pombej, and the current patron, the esteemed M.R. Chakrarot Chitrabongs, have all inspired and contributed to the group’s growth, sharing their time and wisdom with NMV members. Currently, NMV guides hold annual Guiding Workshops in English, Japanese, French and German for members wishing to become guides.

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NMV Special Projects For the past 45 years the NMV has been involved in numerous projects including renovation of the pre-history gallery in the late 1980s, followed by the history section, the gift shop and ticket office and culminating in the textile gallery’s renovation in 2009. To enable the blind, visually impaired or sighted to enjoy the treasures of the museum, NMV members designed a program that uses touch and verbal description. The program covers topics such as Buddhism, Thai architecture and Thai history and reflects the growing recognition of the rights of people with disabilities to access cultural learning when visiting museums. To reach out to an even broader audience, particularly those living outside of Bangkok without easy access to cultural pursuits, the NMV recently opened a branch in Pattaya, which has been warmly embraced by local residents eager to learn and

share knowledge of their host country. The latest and most challenging of the NMV’s projects, however, is the joint FAD and NMV curator training project designed to train museum curators to guide foreign visitors in English. Following two highly successful sessions, this ambitious project has now been extended to the 44 national museums nationwide. Keeping on the path set by the founding members since 1969, the NMV hopes to continue supporting The Fine Arts Department and the National Museum Bangkok by focusing on its core activity of training new guides to guide foreign visitors throughout the National Museum Bangkok. In its aim to increase awareness and knowledge of the artistic and cultural heritage of Thailand, the NMV will also look for new perspectives to attract interested audiences from among the local and foreign communities to join its ranks. For more info about the NMV, see: www.museumvolunteersbkk.net

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Expat Women

Shopping|New products

SEPHORA MAKES ITS MOVE ■ BANGKOK’S make-up market will be given a vibrant boost this December with the arrival of Sephora’s first flagship store in Thailand. Owned and operated by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH), Sephora is known for offering unique brands from around the world, highlighting trends and giving expert beauty advice. Among the exclusive names it stocks are Josie Maran, Stila, Tarte, Peter Thomas Roth, For Beloved One, Ciate, Butter London, Nails Inc., Percy & Reed – all of which will be available in Bangkok for the first time. The shop will be located in Siam Center (near Siam BTS).

SCENT OF SUCCESS ■ YOU’VE seen her in movies, in magazines, on TV, and

Talking

SCOOT IN STYLE

Shop Hot products and stores demanding your attention

■ A LONG-time favourite of European commuters who like to scoot in style, Italy’s iconic Vespa has celebrated the opening of its flagship store in Bangkok (A Square, Sukhumvit 26) by launching its Vespa LX 125 3Vie Vintage Edition 2556, a twotone beauty available in “Green Soda” (Green/Beige) and “Blue Kamron” (Baby Blue/Beige). Only 300 models of each colour are available. If you miss out on that range, check out the new Vespa 946, a lightweight, high-performance model (available in black or white) inspired by the very first Vespa released in 1946. Vroom, vroom. For more info: www.vespa.co.th

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plastered across billboards, and now Thai celeb Cris Horwang, star of “Bangkok Traffic Love Story,” is channeling her talents to launch her very first perfume – Secret. Produced in partnership with Bel Perfumes, the scent is inspired by Cris’s personality – sweet, bold, and sexy to boot – and features a unique blend of Mandarin, Cranberry, and Red Berry notes topped with Cherry Blossom, Magnolia, Gardenia, and a touch of caramel. The perfume starts at B1,450 for a 100ml bottle. Available at all leading department stores, all branches of Mist 1000 Parfums, at SkyShop on Air Asia flight, and www.celeb-perfume.com/ cris-horwang

GET BACK TO NATURE ■ THE cool season’s here (well, kind of) so why not pack your bags and head to Khao Yai for some good ol’ fashioned trekking? After all, now that Thailand’s Equinox Outdoor Store has just released its latest collection of modern outdoor wear, and also inked a deal to stock products from Lowe Alpine, known throughout the world for its high quality outdoor clothing and equipment, the usual excuse of “I would go trekking but I can’t find the right gear” is now flimsier than a 20-year-old tent. Trekking packs, Hiking packs, and Fast and Light packs are just some of the items now available at Equinox’s flagship store, located on the third floor of Siam Discovery. Enjoy! www.equinoxextreme.com

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Expat Women

School Report |The Arts Thanyapura Challenge Junior Triathlon

YOUNG athletes are being given the chance to shine this year in the Laguna Challenge Tri-Fest 2013, which, as part of the event, will feature the Thanyapura Challenge Junior Triathlon. Open to kids aged between 6-14 (divided into three categories), the event will give young athletes the chance to experience the world class sports facilities at Thanyapura Sports Club, Phuket, including its 50m Olympic standard outdoor pool with biking and running routes set within the surrounding nature of Khao Phra Thaew National Park. The triathlon will be held on Sat Nov 30. www.challengelagunaphuket.com

Ploenchit Fair at Patana

Scottish fun at The British Club

THE St. Andrew’s Society in Association with the British Club recently held a “Family Fair with a Scottish Flair” which delighted visitors young and old with highlights such as haggis racing, tug RUAMRUDEE International School (RIS) of war, tossing the caber, Scottish dancing, and a performance by the will celebrate its 60th anniversary on Sat Dec 7 with a glittering gala dinner at British Club Pipe Band. the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Held in honour of Fr. Travis and his six decades of devotion to the RIS community, the event will bring together star pupils past and present for a night of fine dining and entertainment. Tickets are B5,000. Donation packages for RIS’s Fr. Travis Endowment Fund are also available. For more info contact sasiwimonc@rism. ac.th

RIS turns 60 next month

IPN EVENT

THE traditional British fun fair is returning to Bangkok Patana School on Sat Nov 23, featuring Christmas shopping, bargains galore, international and pub food, Champagne and Beer bar, live entertainment, kids’ rides and games, and thousands of prizes. The fair is organized by the British Community in Thailand Foundation for the Needy, which, since 2000, has donated over B55 million to Thai charities. Entry is B150 for adults; B50 for kids. 10am-8pm. 643 La Salle Rd.(Sukhumvit 105) Tel: 02 398 0200 (Skytrain to Bang Na Station and free shuttle bus station to Bangkok Patana School). Parking available at the school. Tel: BCTFN 02 204 1587 www.ploenchitfair.org www.bctfn.com

Family Fun Fair with Operation Smile

OPERATION Smile will celebrate Universal Children’s Day on Nov 16 by hosting its first ever Family Fun Fair. Held at The British Club Bangkok (Silom Soi 18) from 11am-5pm, the event will feature games and activities, fun performances, and an extensive choice of food and drinks. Entry is B50 and all proceeds will go towards Operation Smile. For more info contact annie.hansen@standrewsschools.com

Tips for parents: What to do about bullying? THIS month’s International Parenting Network (IPN), to be held on Nov 26 at the FCCT, will feature Dr. Chakriya Theeranate from Bumrungrad International Hospital discussing the effects bullying has on children. Topics covered will include: What is bullying? Why does bullying occur? How to recognize signs of bullying; and what advice parents can give to their child if he

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or she has been bullied or if their child is bullying others. Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand (FCCT), The Penthouse, Maneeya Centre, Ploenchit Road (BTS Chidlom). 6.30pm8.30pm. Free for IPN cardmembers and B550 for nonmembers (includes presentation, handouts, dinner, soft drinks, juices and wine). Tel: 081 826 2399 RSVP: ipn@ipnthailand.com

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

Monsoon Midnights Special places in Bangkok, as experienced by the Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group Dear reader, Welcome to ‘Monsoon Midnights’, a brand new series of stories by the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group. The storytellers of the BWWG come from all over the world but they all have a special place in this city, somewhere surprising, obscure and unexpected, as yet undiscovered. Follow us to these hidden places right here, month after month. 74

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NIGHTFALL OVER BANGKOK THERE are some very high places in Bangkok. Places where you can look out and see the city laid out like an interactive map beneath you. I look at the darkening sky above. It is dark tonight; the moon has not yet risen. The city is quiet, as if lost in memory. Many people have left in a great wave of traffic, and now I can hear the call of the night birds, long and haunting. Are you there? Are you there? I follow their calls, I try to listen, but I can’t answer. I don’t know. The ground smells of water. Still, old, brown water, here for hundreds of years, just below the tarmac, just below the grass. If you build a big house in Bangkok, chances are you will have a pond next door. The water takes its ground back. Tonight it is time to take a long tail boat, the motorcycle of the canals. It is loud, it is dangerous, it throws you around and makes you hold on for dear life, and it is fast. Very fast. We slip around the corners, we stir up dirty slick, and if anyone should be as bold as to follow in our wake, we’ll dowse them with the spray from our stern. We pass many piers and jetties, but we all disdain them. Until, just slightly east of the city centre, we suddenly swing around and bump against a jetty, deserted at this late hour, no, only almost deserted, because, illuminated by the faint light from the temple behind her, I can see a slight figure, sitting very still.

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Tonight’s storyteller, Bhavna Khemlani, is waiting for me here. She looks dreamily at the dark roofs and shimmering reflection of the temple. A native of this city, she feels a strong connection to the tragic young woman whose spirit is said to rest here. If ‘rest’ is indeed the right word… I sit next to Bhavna and listen. It seems that Bhavna is listening, too. When she speaks, I realise that it is in another voice, speaking from another place altogether. But it’s a very lively voice… A Mystifying Evening

By Bhavna Khemlani

BEING a full-time ghost is a pain! There I was sleeping calmly when the noise of worshipers whispering woke me up. With that, who would need an alarm clock? Squinting away, I wake up to a chant of prayers. Glancing at people shows me the changing years. I sit on this cement pavement all by myself. I can see the world’s upbeat motion take off, rapidly leading me down memory lane. There was a time when I lived and my life flourished until I was captured and sent away. Today all I can do is sit and sometimes saunter around the temple which is a tribute to me. I am Mae Nak and now a neighbour who is visited by many regularly. My heartbeat increases to the thrill of life which I once manifested. I watch the passing long-tail boat, gazing at old shacks, wooden homes, and two ducks. The serene neighbourhood swallows me with its antique charm. My hair rejoices in the movement of the breeze, and ripples are formed continuously on this summer afternoon. Perfect timing for a picnic. But where can I find a hamper that would allow me to indulge by the lake? I am caged. I feel like a bird with imaginary chains fastened around its ankles that is allowed a limited moment of liberation. However, today my story seems to fascinate the television and movie industry. Taking a bow to the twenty-four-hour television set in front of me, it grants me the opportunity to take a dip into the sea of modern cinema. I see how movie makers have incorporated my life into soap operas, movies, and comedy shows. The glimpse of posters and billboards on television shows me how I am portrayed because I loved my husband dearly. It’s simply all on my face. How well others portray me brings an insight into my life where I wish I could take the pleasure of popcorn and criticize the art of creativity, too. Many stories have come and gone. But who knows how I really was? Or what I even went through or how I even felt? Sigh, as I walk past old benches, rows of fortune tellers, I see various aquariums. Several types of fish are waltzing through the water. Pla Tubtim, i.e. Nile Tilapia symbolizes love and when released for merit brings tranquillity. What a pity! It denies my command but tunes into the music other people play as they have the ability and I can’t anymore. The armies of lottery vendors at the temple startle me all the time. I would have surely become a millionaire if they had been there in the past. I march straight ahead in awe. The tangy smell signals an unpredictable sneeze, and then I see a pack of dogs indulge in play-bite activities. The playful nature doesn’t invite trouble as they slowly calm down and sit in comfortable positions. How about me? The anxiety suffocates me. The nectar of harmony has spread a red carpet over someone else’s life so the other could parade to the joyful moments whilst I can only dream.

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Wheeling around, on the inner perimeter, I see a row of small shops selling toys and colourful Thai costumes to be used as offerings. Inside the area various portraits of me are facing the canal side. The artistic strokes my followers present to me allow me to relive my youthful days. I was seen as too possessive and harmful, but today faith has danced into many lives understanding my possessiveness and passion for my love, my husband and child. I am more appreciated today than ever! Several garlands are decorated from one end to the other paying respect to me. I leap in joy to see the humble gestures. I hadn’t known my true worth before, but the respect people give me feels like a feast of celebration every day. Purple Orchids are smoothly arranged in front of me as if it was my birthday every day. I miss tasting creamy cake. The melting of chocolate down my fingers would be delightful and having a bite would surely tempt me to have another slice. I grin and slouch towards the picture of Lord Shiva and Parvati. A heart is drawn on it. The titter tatter of my heart awakens a youthful feeling of compassion once again. I also loved and still love and will always be in love. I pace further and see the huge trunk of the Bo tree covered with colourful lengths of cloths forming a string of multihued ribbons. Anxiously, I stride away surveying the temple area. I take a glance at young ladies praying. I tiptoe to see how they clench their incense sticks and garlands. Twirling strands of my hair, I squint at an elderly man sitting inside a white hut. I stroll in his direction and take a careful look at all the costumes. On the right side of the hut, lotuses, orange and white flowered garlands are placed on a silver tray. I pick it up – he doesn’t notice – and pace inside the temple. Even if I am a ghost, I can still touch, feel, and inhale the fragrance. The mischievous act of hide and seek from my devotees is worth a play. With a loud thump, I comfortably sit on the floor placing the lotuses aside. Viewing the shrine in honour of me sends electrifying goose bumps over my whole body. Then surveying the interior of the room fascinates me. Several portraits that depict me are placed on a shelf. Below is a glass cabinet with folded Thai dresses. The colourful dresses speak to me with a tender voice. How each silk cloth crawls towards me makes me a fashion victim again. I want to take each costume and be enveloped by the soothing silk flaunting my beauty. Oh, how I wish to be alive. I had a beautiful body. I miss being admired by my husband. My beauty spoke a million expressions. Life was fascinating and I had the grace to promenade in the walks of fashion. No one praises me anymore. Sigh!

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

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HE Bangkok Women’s Writers Group, led by Anette Pollner, founded in 2001, is where creative women from all over the world meet to workshop their writing in a supportive and inspiring environment. Many of our members are published and prize winning authors, but we are open to all women who are passionate about writing, including complete beginners. The BWWG has published a Thai-English language bestseller, ‘Bangkok Blondes’ and various pamphlets. We regularly give readings around town and have been part of international festivals and cultural exchanges. Please contact bkk_writers@yahoo.com for more information. This month’s story teller is Thai writer Bhavna Khemlani, author of ‘The Wisher’s Well’ (2010), ‘Maples: Rejuvenating Cocktail’ (2011), and ‘The Wagging Tail of Bliss’ (2012) as well as numerous articles, short stories, and poems. Bhavna is a Lecturer in Principles of Marketing, and Creative Writing. She believes that our heart and mind are beautiful, and that we have the ability to pen down our thoughts into wonderful writing, and share that inspiration to others.

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As I glance downwards, I can see the statue representing me wearing a pink Thai traditional dress covered with gold leaves filled with a range of circular bands of flowers and lit candles. The elegant pose of me in red lipstick carrying my infant covered with gold leaves reassures me that I belong in this temple. Tears trickle down my eyes, memories of birth, losing my baby, b aby, and compassion towards women swirl up like a typhoon. Men M en stumbling, children galloping, pregnant women sauntering make m ake me pout with pride. The cheerful sounds of children leave me feeling alienated. I stand up instantly. I pace backwards and trip. The gloomy, then numb thoughts pull me further to take a glimpse of the pregnant women praying for a smooth birth. I wish I could whisper in their ears that everything will be fine. I know how they feel. Words are meandering on the tip of my tongue. Can someone hear me? A golden plated bowl on a glass box draws my attention. The bowl seems to be rooted to my soul where I don’t feel like an alien anymore. The tears of joy and the silent plea echo endlessly. I can feel the love. This is my home! I belong here! Vases of red roses are smiling at me. They comfort my soul and remind me of a home that is never closed, welcoming everyone as expected visitors. I am welcoming everyone. I twirl around and stand under a roof of tree branches. Droplets of water are drizzling down the twigs. The shelter diffuses an earthy fragrance which rejuvenates misty senses. The nostalgic presence of several pale-green leaves uplifts a lethargic soul. As the earthy scent subsides it makes room for the aroma of Oleang and Oolong Tea from a small wooden restaurant. A lady is waiting for her Iced Tea to be served. When she gets her glass, I wait under the tree to see what the street vendor does next. The vendor effortlessly places two tablespoons of coffee in a stainless muslin filter over a saucepan. Then he lifts the filter and moves it over a wide cup. He pours the liquid coffee into a saucepan. He repeats the sequence once again and adds three tablespoons of white granulated sugar into a glass. The coffee is then poured into a steel glass with sugar. As he stirs, a blend of a tradition diffuses reminding me of my childhood days outside school. The taste of

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coffee would be divine; the sight of three tablespoons of white sugar gives me the hiccups. Does anyone know of diabetes? If I was alive to consume this every day, I know what I could have died of. The street vendor pours the coffee into a glass filled with crushed ice. Stirring again and adding milk simultaneously, he closes the glass with a plastic lid and serves it with a brown straw. I would forget I even saw the three tablespoons of sugar and how I want to taste the coffee. A droplet of the creamy drink would quench a spirit’s thirst for a lifetime. For now, I only desire one droplet of pleasure that is evaporating into the cloudy skies. The sound of thunder reminds me that I should make a move. Pacing ahead a few metres, I spot a black-grey gong outside a Buddha Temple. At the doorstep, I fold my hands to pay respect. The white wall, an old shaded white-brown ceiling fan and a bronze chandelier echo their presence for years. I feel like a neighbour living next door. I sit down and notice many wooden boxes for donations when an old woman comes inside and chants something silently. A fleeting thought – time to leave – shakes up my lazy nervous system. Bowing respectfully, I step out and hit the gong – again nobody notices – and rejoice in the sound of my presence there. I pause and look at the road that leads to a magnificent historical tale. There are dark, mysterious places in this city, and they all have their own story. Some stories catch the hearts and imagination of her people, and those stories live on in many forms, on many nights. The moon has risen, late tonight, as I return to my place high above the city. Soon the sky will lighten, getting ready for the fast tropical dawn, and the birds will call again, long haunting calls that no one ever answers. Are you there? Are you there? I will see the moon over Bangkok again next month, when I visit the next storyteller, waiting for me already, somewhere, in an undiscovered corner of the city. Let me take you on that journey!

TheBigChilli

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Health|Dieting

Weight loss blunders

(part 2)

Judith Coulson, Executive Director of BKK-Health.com, on diet pitfalls and how to avoid them 1. Problem: Not snacking at all While mindless snacking can pad your waistline, thoughtful snacking may do just the opposite. People who eat several small meals and snacks a day increase their chances of controlling hunger and losing weight. Snacking helps keep your metabolism in high gear, while going hungry does just the opposite. Tip: Quality snacks Whole foods such as fruits paired with protein make excellent snacks. Nuts, seeds, and fruits or raw cut vegetables are a good, high-protein, vitamin-rich choice. Research suggests people who snack on nuts and seeds tend to be slimmer than those who don’t.

2. Problem: Loading up on low-fat products Low-fat products can play an important role in your diet, but remember that lowfat is not the same as low-calorie, and does not give you license to take second and third helpings. If you pile your plate with low-fat cake, you may end up eating more calories than if you had a smaller slice of regular cake. Tip: The low-fat yogurt food fraud Most low-fat yogurts contain high amounts of added sugar. Some brands add 30 or more grams of fructose, sucrose, or other sweeteners. Compare plain to fruited yogurts to see the difference between naturally-occurring milk sugar and added sugar listed on the nutrition label. 3. Problem: Sipping too many calories When counting calories, many of us tend to overlook the calories in our drinks. This is a big mistake when you consider that some

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fancy coffees and alcoholic beverages contain more than 500 calories. Even the calories in fruit juice and soda can add up quickly. Tip: Limit alcohol to weekends Alcohol contains empty calories: a fiveounce glass of wine has 125, a bottle of beer about 153. Because our bodies do not use those calories well, they usually get converted directly into fat. Enjoy your favourite alcoholic beverage on weekends only, with just one drink for women per day, and two for men. 4. Problem: Keeping empty calories in storage If you have chips in the pantry and ice cream in the freezer, you are making weight loss harder than it needs to be. Reduce temptation by purging the cupboards of fattening foods. Want an occasional treat? Make sure you have to leave the house to get it, preferably by walking. Tip: Stock your kitchen with healthy, convenient foods. Having ready-to-eat snacks and meals-inminutes on hand sets you up for success. You will be less likely to order a pizza if you can throw together a healthy meal in five or ten minutes. Here are some ideas of ingredients to keep on hand: frozen vegetables and fruits, whole-grain pasta, pre-cooked whole grain rice or other grains, quinoa, dried mushrooms, pre-cooked tomato sauce, onions and garlic, canned beans, tuna, sardines, pre-cooked grilled chicken breast, whole grain tortillas or pitas and ready-washed and trimmed salad.

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5. Problem: Weighing yourself ever y day Weighing yourself daily is a recipe for frustration, and does not yield useful information. It is more important to look for long-term trends with weekly weighins. If your goal is to lose one or two pounds per week, you will be satisfied to see those full pounds drop when you step on the scale. The result is more motivating than the confusing swings that may accompany daily weigh-ins. 6. Problem: Setting unrealistic goals Telling yourself that you will lose five pounds your first week is probably setting yourself up for failure. If you know you will not be able to do it, you may never start your diet in the first place. If you diet and lose two pounds in a week, instead of celebrating, you may feel discouraged that you did not reach your goal. A realistic goal is vital to successful dieting. If you are not sure what your goal should be, talk to a nutritionist. Tip: Celebrate your success You lost three pounds this month and walked every other day? Time to celebrate! Rewarding weight loss success really can encourage more success. Set a prize for the next milestone. Just make sure that you do not celebrate with ice cream, chocolate cake, or deep fried chicken! 7. Problem: Avoiding exercise When you do not exercise, you place the entire burden of weight loss on your diet.

The key is finding an exercise that you enjoy. If the treadmill seems too boring, try swimming, dancing, biking, or tennis. If you become more active, you can eat more of the things you like, and still lose weight. The key is finding an exercise that you enjoy. If the treadmill seems too boring, try swimming, dancing, biking, or tennis. Spend time at different activities until you find one you want to do on most days of the week. Tip: Control cravings: Take a walk during break times There is evidence that brisk walking can help you eat fewer sweets. In a study published in the journal Appetite, participants who took a 15-minute walk were half as likely to eat chocolate at their desks compared with those who took a 15-minute rest. Contact Judith@bkk-health.com for further information how to create a balanced diet plan. Judith Coulson is a Medical & Lifestyle Nutrition Coach available for private coaching sessions and corporate wellness workshops.

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Advice|Problems solved

Ask the experts Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Mar r iage thr eatene d by an g r y so n

Expat life getting you down? Don’t suffer in silence. Send in your problems and get advice from professional counsellors Anette and Johanna I AM writing to you about a friend of mine. She talks to me a lot and is desperately looking for advice.

dealing with his depression and the root causes need to be addressed. Is it My friend has been a single mother for many years. Her husband left her because of the family situation or are when their son was six years old. The son always wanted his natural father there other issues (even before the to look after him but this man never cared. He has had no part in the boy’s marriage)? Could he be clinically life and this, I feel, made her son, now 17, an angry young man. My friend has depressed? Some couple counseling worked hard to make enough money so that she can give her son all he needed. may be helpful. Thirdly, the son needs help with Now my friend has found a new love and last year she married him. Her son doesn’t anger management. Maybe there accept the situation and makes life very difficult. He even throws tantrums in are all kinds of good reasons for his which he destroys furniture and punches holes in the walls. The son and the anger, but it is not ok to terrorise new husband have very bad arguments. someone else’s life and destroy their belongings. With help of a profesMy friend is completely confused about what to do. Should she choose for her sional he needs to accept ‘his fate in marriage or for her son? She feels torn apart and wonders whether life’ and look beyond that fate to the she made the wrong decision. She phones me often, and then she cries positive aspects. and feels hopeless. Your friend also needs to confront him with the consequences of his behaviour. Her present husband also has problems and reacts by being He needs to know that next time he dedepressed and withdrawn. She feels very alone. stroys something, his mother may call the police for help (the ‘tough love’ principle). What can I say to her? Your friend has the choice to cry and sacrifi ce herself (and her new marriage) Tanya, 36, from Russia Dear Tanya, or she can firmly but lovingly confront ■ You are a him with his real-life situation. She can real friend by listening tell him she did her utmost best to give to the agony of your friend and looking him what he needed and that she too is for a way to help and advise her. The sitsorry how life went regarding his natural uation you describe is very complicated father, but that’s how it is. She will have and probably requires professional help to decide that she is not willing to be the on different levels. victim of the past. The son is 17, so he First of all your friend needs help in has to make up his mind what he wants becoming more decisive so she can make for his own life. He is old enough to take the right choices. Certainly she needs responsibility for his behaviour. to get rid of her feelings of guilt. The To stand firm your friend needs othnatural father left his wife and son, so she ers to support her and I do hope you will should not take the blame for that. She be willing to continue to be her friend and tried and allowed her son to connect with let her cry on your shoulder. his natural father, but this man was not Your friend should keep in mind that by interested. Also, there is nothing wrong letting her new husband go no one will win. with finding a new love in her life. The son will not learn to control his anger, This new man could have become nor learn to accept life’s difficulties, and an asset into the son’s life but seemingly your friend will end up losing her new love the son is not willing to receive a positive and her son. In the end most young men male father figure in his life. will most likely leave their mothers at some Second, the husband needs help point and find the love of their own lives. That would be healthy, so your friend has • Johanna DeKoning MS is the to take this also into consideration. Clinical Director of NCS Counseling Center. She trained in the Netherlands and Australia.

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Car eer ru ine d by com pany bu yo u t

ways, getting additional training, even changing careers altogether. This will be difficult for your family, too, so you will need their support here. Your family can also give you a sense of self and a sense of meaning. Who Last year, the company was bought by a larger competitor and since then are you when you are not everything has changed here. Some of my former co-workers were let go, and then working? Maybe you have the real fun started. neglected that part of your life until now. Our teams were ‘re-shuffled,’ and I found myself in a much less responsible If you are already position. I also earn less money now. In fact, although it was phrased fantasising about ‘leaving it differently, it was a demotion. All my in-house career options are now blocked by all behind,’ I would suggest people from the other company. A few years ago, I would have been able to move you take your pain seriously. to another company, but now that has become quite difficult. It won’t just go away. You need to face your situation, and talk My life has changed so much for the worse. I dread going into work. about it, with your wife, with a I’ve started to question my performance. There are days when I hate myself. friend, maybe with a counselor. I wish I could leave and sometimes I fantasise about not going in and You are still young enough to make disappearing somewhere on the next flight. a fresh start, and you need to make some decisions. You don’t have power But I have a wife and two children to support, and my career over the fate of companies, but you do would be over forever. have some power over your own life How can I survive? I HAVE been working at the same company for seven years now and although my job is not easy, I have been able to advance in my career steadily. I thought I had a path mapped out for myself. I know I am good at what I do, better than many others, in fact, and I thought the company appreciated me. Unfortunately, I was wrong.

Kit, 41, from Bangkok

• Anette Pollner Adv. Dipl. Couns., is one of seven international counsellors at NCS Counseling Center in Saphan Kwai. She trained in London and the US and worked as a staff counsellor at Bart’s Hospital in London.

Dear Kit,

■ This is really tough. Like many people, you identify with your job. Your fulfilment in life and even your sense of self-worth are closely connected with it. But, also like many people, you confused your profession with your career. And while you have power over how you work, and what you do, and the way you do it, you have very little power over your employers, how they see your job, how they see you, and of course all the outward elements that rule for example a company take over, where you, as an employee, are just a number that needs to be re-adjusted. You say you felt appreciated by your original company, and that reinforced your sense of self-worth and also your identification with the job. Your old company no longer exists, but you are still the same person. It is hard to retain a sense of self when the feedback from the outside changes so radically. But you are now

forced to re-assess who you are and what you are doing. You can apply the outside valuation to yourself – first good, now very bad. But you can also try to get your sense of self from other sources. If you feel you were good at what you did, you probably still are good at the same things. You are just not valued any more. This may be part of the new company’s different philosophy, or it may just be part of the unequal consequences of the two companies joining together and discarding people and positions. Whatever the reason, you now have to ask yourself how you value yourself, from the inside. It is very difficult to sustain a wide divergence between self-valuation and outside valuation in the long term. So maybe it would be a good idea to look for alternatives in spite of the difficult labour market, maybe even to consider moving side-

Contact details: ncs-counseling.com, anette.p@ncs-counseling.com, Tel: 02 279 8503 Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com TheBigChilli

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Feature

Insight|Human Trafficking

s i d n a l i a h T How e l t t a b s t i p u g n i p p e st s r e k c ffi a r t n a m u h h t i w Facing criticism from the US, the Department of Special Investigation is leading efforts to tackle a serious global problem affecting the kingdom. Maxmilian Wechsler reports HUMAN trafficking is a form of modern-day slavery. It involves the use of force, fraud or coercion to take advantage of and exploit other human beings for sexual purposes or for labor under conditions few would willingly accept. In almost every country on the planet the traffickers have created an international market for the trade of men, women and even children, usually targeting people with limited employment opportunities who hope for a better life. The lengthy and detailed US Trafficking in Persons (TIP) 2013 report takes a dismal view of Thailand’s anti-human trafficking efforts, and alleges that corrupt practices by Thai government officials in some government agencies are directly responsible for letting traffickers off the hook (see sidebar). The language is unusually strong and definitely not diplomatic, but some in the Thai law enforcement questioned the accuracy of the report. To put a focus on the scourge of human trafficking and what Thailand is doing about it, The BigChilli spoke to Paisith Sungkahapong, Senior Special Case Inquiry Official (Level 9) in charge of the Anti-Human Trafficking Center (AHTC) at the Department of Special Investigation (DSI).

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Mr Paisith explained that the Thai government put human trafficking on the national agenda as a priority in 2004. The Ministry of Justice assigned the DSI to study the problem in 2005 and in 2008 the DSI set up the AHTC within the Bureau of Foreign Affairs and Transnational Crime. In the beginning of 2011, corresponding with the new structure of the DSI, the antihuman trafficking division was set up under the supervision of the Director-General of the DSI. Mr Paisith was appointed to his position in April 2011.

Trafficking definition “The 2008 Anti-Trafficking in Persons Act gives a precise definition of human trafficking,” said Mr Paisith, “but there is misunderstanding as to what it actually is on the part of many if not most Thai people, the media and even some authorities. Trafficking is often mixed up with smuggling, illegal labor and prostitution. “The definition of human trafficking is clearly stated in sections 4 and 6 of the Anti-Trafficking Act,” he explained, “and there are three elements involved: the act, or what is done; the

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means, how it is done; and the purpose, or why it is done. The act entails procuring, buying, selling, transporting, detaining or confining, harboring, or the receipt of human beings. “The means involves threats or actual use of force, abduction, fraud, deception, abuse of power, or of giving money or benefits to achieve control of another person. “Purpose concerns exploitation by seeking benefits from prostitution, production or distribution of pornographic materials and other forms of sexual exploitation; slavery causing another person to be a beggar, forced labor or service; coerced removal of organs for the purpose of trade; and similar nefarious practices, regardless of whether consent is given by the person affected. “So in order to make a case for violation of the AntiTrafficking Act, these three elements must be present to separate it from human smuggling or prostitution. Let’s take an example: If you are bringing somebody from another country to Thailand and they agree to go with you and pay you to take them, and upon arrival you take their money and let them go, this is not human trafficking, but human smuggling, because the person came voluntarily and wasn’t forced or deceived. “However, if you lure someone to come to Thailand and promise them a good job beforehand, like working in a restaurant, but instead force them to work on a fishing trawler, in a brothel or do anything else they are unwilling to do, then it is human trafficking.”

“We are also working with the United Nations Inter-Agency Projects (UNIAP), an organization established in 2000 with a mandate to facilitate a stronger and more coordinated response to trafficking in the Greater Mekong Sub-region. “We also cooperate with COMMIT Process, an association of six nations in the Greater Mekong Sub-Region – Cambodia, China, Lao PDR, Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam committed to eradicating human trafficking in the region. Other groups we are working with are the Asia Regional Trafficking in Persons Project, an organization run by the Australian government; Interpol, the US Federal Bureau of Investigation (FBI), and US Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE), along with other law enforcement agencies including the Myanmar Police, Australian Federal Police (AFP), and the Serious Organized Crime Agency (SOCA).” Mr Paisith said that his unit receives many tips and information regarding human trafficking from various NGOs who also provide assistance in terms of dealing with victims.

Thailand’s central role Thailand is a source, transit point and destination for human trafficking in Southeast Asia. “The first point involves mostly Thai women who are trafficked to work as prostitutes in other Asian countries and in Europe,” said Mr Paisith. “As for transit,

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Concerted effort

Mr Paisith noted that the AHTC unit currently has more than 20 officers stationed in Bangkok, with more staff expected in the near future. “In addition, we can get assistance from other DSI bureaus. There are operational units which can support us when we go on search, arrest or rescue missions and so on. “Human trafficking has been recognized as a major problem by the government and there are in fact many agencies working together to counter it. The DSI and the Royal Thai Police (RTP) are law enforcement agencies with a duty to enforce the law of the land, and a number of other government agencies play different roles. The main agency dealing with human trafficking in Thailand is the Ministry of Social Development and Human Security, which basically takes care of the victims by managing rehabilitation efforts and looking after their general welfare. “The DSI and the RTP are the only two law enforcement agencies working on human trafficking cases in Thailand. We have an agreement separating our responsibilities. The DSI is responsible for special cases of a complicated nature, transnational cases and cases involving organized crime and/ or influential figures, and the RTP is responsible for everything else. “The DSI conducts investigations, suppression and arrests, and works with social workers on the cases. We also cooperate with the Office of the Attorney General (OAG), which plays a part in the prosecution stage, and we work with international organizations such as the United Nations Office on Drug and Crime (UNODC). They have enhanced capabilities and a sizable budget for anti-human trafficking efforts. At the moment, DSI is working with the UNODC and the US government on a major anti-trafficking project.

Paisith Sungkahapong, Senior Special Case Inquiry Official (Level 9) in charge of the Anti-Human Trafficking Center (AHTC) at the Department of Special Investigation (DSI). TheBigChilli

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Feature

Insight|Human Trafficking probably a foreigner, like the owner of a bar, etc. “We have found that most of the recruiters and brokers are nationals of the same country of origin as the victims. For example, fishing trawlers often use the labor of unwilling Myanmar workers, and there’s always someone who can speak their language and who controls them as well.”

Trafficking penalties and complications

These images, courtesy of DSI, show just some of the victims of human trafficking the DSI has rescued in its raids

that is likely to involve foreigners coming from countries like Bangladesh, Iran or Pakistan who want to go to a third country. They are smuggled to Thailand first and then on to countries such as Australia, Canada and the US. “As a destination – and this is the biggest problem – many nationals from neighboring countries like Cambodia, Lao PDR and Myanmar, especially Tai Yai [a Myanmar ethnic minority] women are being trafficked to Thailand and forced to work here as prostitutes in massage parlors, karaoke bars, brothels and so on. As well, laborers from these countries are forced to work in factories in Bangkok or in Samut Sakhon, on fishing trawlers out of Chonburi or southern Thailand or as beggars on the street. The latter category includes many Cambodians. “There are over one million illegal migrants in Thailand, and a fair number of them are victims of the human trafficking gangs, which are controlled by crime syndicates based both in Thailand and abroad,” said Mr Paisith. He explained that some of the gangs are small, consisting of just a few individuals operating mostly in Thailand, while others are quite large, with extensive links in the criminal underground. “One broker will take the victims to Thailand and another will pick them up and take them to the final destination. This could be Bangkok, South Thailand or provinces in other parts of the country. There’s no one boss for all the syndicates, and sometimes the entire business is done by only two brokers. In any case, Thai criminals almost always play a major role in human trafficking in this country,” Mr Paisith said. “However, in the case of Thai women being trafficked and exploited outside of Thailand, the boss is

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“The penalty for human trafficking in Thailand is a minimum of four years and a maximum of 20 years for one count, but we often charge suspects with many counts that make the punishment more severe. Human trafficking is a big problem facing Thailand and we need all the deterrents at our disposal. We also need the help of concerned citizens and the media. Sometimes we ask a television news crew to accompany us on a raid. We want to show the public how we work, and what we are up against, and that will help in terms of prevention as well.

“Human trafficking is related to other crimes like passport and document forgery. Many of those trafficked will stay in transit in Thailand for a few days or weeks before their passport is ready. We have arrested some forgery gangs already. We have evidence that information in the passports of some of the victims has been altered, especially their ages. This makes it difficult to work cases like this because we have to prove that victims are either underage or forced to work in the venues we raid, otherwise it is difficult to charge the owners and other people behind the racket (according to Thai law, a person aged under 18 is automatically considered a victim, regardless of whether or not they agreed to the work they are doing).”

Some major AHTC operations Mr Paisith mentioned a long list of operations the AHTC has conducted and the following are some major examples: In 2011 the AHTC investigated a case in Narathiwat province involving sexual exploitation. The AHTC received a request from the Lao PDR embassy and one local NGO to rescue two Laotian girls forced into prostitution at a karaoke bar in Sungai Golok. With the assistance from the Thai military and the police, the two girls were rescued together with 41 other Laotians, 20 of whom were determined to be victims of human trafficking. Five people were arrested and two of these have

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US report’s finger-pointing

been sentenced, each given jail sentences of over 50 years. The other three suspects are awaiting the conclusion of legal proceedings. Last year the AHTC and the Royal Thai Navy searched a fishing pier in Samae San Sub-District of Chonburi province and rescued 28 Myanmar fishermen, 11 of whom were determined to be victims of trafficking. One Myanmar broker and two Thai fishing boat owners were arrested. The first broker was sentenced to 33 years in prison. The other two cases are in the trial process. This year the Myanmar Police Force and the United Nations Inter-Agency Projects requested assistance from the AHTC to rescue Myanmar victims who were forced to work in a corn canning factory in Kanchanaburi province. Fourteen male Myanmar victims were rescued; two Myanmar brokers, arrested.

Rohingya problem

DSI on a raid with various agencies

Mr Paisith stressed that the case of the Rohingya from Myanmar who end up in Thailand belongs in the human smuggling category and, unless they find evidence to suggest otherwise, are not considered victims of human trafficking. “They are trying to find better place to live, so they sail boats from Myanmar. Actually, they don’t want to come to Thailand but sometimes they are stuck here when their boat sinks off Thai waters. This means that the Thai government has to look after them on humanitarian grounds. “We would like the Rohingya in Thailand to go somewhere else, but since no one wants to accept them, they have become our responsibility. The international organizations are unable to resettle them yet and they would like to set up camps in Thailand, but the government and most Thais feel that we have too many refugee camps already,” said Mr Paisith.

US applies pressure and assistance

Mr Paisith acknowledged that in the latest TIP Report released by the US State Department, Thailand receives a lot of blame for the global human trafficking problem and is given a Tier 2 ranking. The State Department classifies each country into one of three tiers based on the extent of their governments’ efforts. Tier 1 is the highest ranking, though this designation does not mean that a country has no human trafficking problem. Tier 3 is the lowest classification. “The TIP report is accepted worldwide, so we have to take notice. The US warned us that if we don’t improve in 2014 Thailand will fall down to Tier 3 which could result in sanctions. Therefore, we are working very hard in order to improve our ranking to Tier 2,” said Mr Paisith, noting that his unit now has 15 cases under investigation. He added that the US is not only directing criticism at Thailand, but also giving assistance, especially in terms of training. For example, last July they brought a group of Thai senior officers from the DSI, the Royal Thai Police, and the OAG agencies to the US for observing in methods for suppressing human trafficking.

EXCERPTS from the TIP report: “The government of Thailand does not fully comply with the minimum standards for the elimination of trafficking. The government has not shown sufficient evidence of increasing efforts to address human trafficking compared to the previous year; therefore, Thailand is placed on Tier 2 Watch List for a fourth consecutive year. Thailand was granted a waiver from an otherwise required downgrade to Tier 3 because the government has a written plan that, if implemented, would constitute making significant efforts to meet the minimum stand for the elimination of trafficking and is devoting sufficient resources to implement that plan.” Under headline “Recommendations for Thailand,” the report makes these recommendations, among others: “Significantly improve efforts to proactively identify victims of trafficking among vulnerable populations, particularly undocumented migrants and deportees; provide incentives for law enforcement officials to increase the numbers of victims identified; increase efforts to prosecute and convict sex and labor trafficking offenders; consider the prosecution of trafficking cases; increase efforts, particularly through the Department of Special Investigation and the establishing a dedicated court division, or take other measures to expedite Office of National Anti-Corruption Commission, to investigate, prosecute, and convict officials engaged in trafficking-related corruption; restrict bail to alleged trafficking offenders to prevent flight.” Under the subtitle “Prosecution”, the report says: “The Thai government prosecuted and convicted fewer trafficking offenders in 2012 than it did in the previous year. The government reported investigating 305 trafficking-related cases in 2012, an increase from 83 in 2011; similar to previous years, it did not provide sufficient information to determine how many of these cases actually constituted trafficking. Despite the increase in potential investigations, the number of prosecutions significantly decreased from 67 in 2011 to only 27 in 2012; the government convicted 10 offenders in four trafficking-related cases, compared with 12 convicted in 2011. Sentences for convicted offenders ranged from three to 19 years’ imprisonment.” “Corruption remained widespread among Thai law enforcement personnel, creating an enabling environment for human trafficking to prosper. Allegations of trafficking-related corruption persisted during the year, including in cases of sex trafficking and forced labor of migrants. There were credible reports that corrupt officials protected brothels, other commercial sex venues, and seafood and sweatshop facilities from raids and inspections, colluded with traffickers, used information from victim testimony to weaken cases, and engaged in commercial sex acts with child trafficking victims. “In addition to the well known corruption of local-level police officers, there were also protective relationships between central-level specialist police officers and the trafficking hotspot regions to which they were assigned. Thai police officers and immigration officials reportedly extorted money or sex from Burmese citizens detained in Thailand for immigration and sold Burmese migrants unable to pay labor brokers and sex traffickers.” Several Thai officials involved in anti-human trafficking admitted that there’s a lot of work to be done in the field in Thailand but called the TIP report “too harsh, biased and one-sided.” They questioned the accuracy of the information in the report and said some sources may have a hidden agenda, without elaborating. One official said: “Thailand has been very generous towards the Rohingya by allowing them to stay in Thailand as other countries would push their boats back to the sea. Even Myanmar wouldn’t repatriate them. Maybe this should be also mentioned in the report as well.”

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Y O U R U L T I M A T E W H A T ’ S O N G U I D E F O R N O V E M B E R 1 3

What’s on pArt pPerformance pSport pFootball pMovies & Albums pBooks

Irish indie favourites Two Door Cinema Club will perform on Nov 28. Page 90.

Dance fest

The Friend’s of the Art Foundation’s popular annual festival returns Page 90

Kick off

The Phuket Soccer 7s brings international teams to the island Page 92

Sailing away Over 100 vessels expected at this year’s King’s Cup Regatta Page 92

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What’s On|The Arts

Exhibitions

NOV 16 – DEC 21

LA LANTA FINE ART

ERO GURO KAWAII: SHIN KOYAMA IN ARITA

BORROWING from the Ero Guro concept found in Japan’s art and literature in the early 1900s, and blending it with the country’s recent Kawaii (a.k.a. ‘cute’) fetish, Shin Koyama’s manga-style motifs on porcelain sculptures mix elements of the erotic, the grotesque and the cute to create comic narratives and absurd dramatic scenes. His sculptures are all handmade in collaboration with local artisans in Arita, home of Japan’s famous blue and white porcelain 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm 02 204 0583 :lalanta.com

NOV 14 – JAN 5

100 TONSON GALLERY

THE DISCIPLINE OF SUBJECTIVITY

THE first solo exhibition in Southeast Asia by Austria-based contemporary artist Erwin Wurm features work from his famed One Minute Sculpture series, which employs everyday objects, chance participants, and found, or site-specific backgrounds. Wurm’s works are part of prestigious collections worldwide, including Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, Musee d’Art Contemporain de Lyon, and the Centre Pompidou, among others. 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm 02 684 1527 :100tonsongallery.com

NOV 20 – DEC 20

TRIBECA RESTOBAR

THE DREAMER

THE latest series of contemporary acrylic paintings by Bangkok-based Thai artist Suthirak Rithraksa capture the essence of nature as perceived in her dreams, featuring remarkable and often whimsical use of colour. Catch the opening reception on Wed, Dec 20 from 6pm-9pm. Tribeca Restobar (Ground Floor of Nihonmura Mall), 85 Thonglor Soi 13. Open daily 9am-Midnight. Email: yvliang555@gmail.com (curator Yvonne Liang)

NOV 12 – DEC 20

DOB HUALAMPHONG GALLERY

IN PUCHONG’S WORLD

COMBINING painting and drawing techniques, Narong Naga’s unique artworks bring Mother Nature to life in all her glory through vibrant renditions of trees, flowers, the sun and moon, and eye-catching geometrical forms. DOB Building 4F, 318 Rama 4 Rd. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (closed Mon) 02 422 2092 :ardelgallery.com

NOV 14 – DEC 7

NUMBER ONE GALLERY

WHEN I WAS JUST A LITTLE BOY

THAI artist Poom Pechavanish cast his mind back to his younger days for his latest body of comic-book-inspired work, which explores just how confusing sex and sexual imagery is to adolescent boys who are too young and innocent to make sense of it all. 919/1 The Silom Galleria Bld. Silom Road Soi 19. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm

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NOV 7 – DEC 15

ARDEL GALLERY OF MODERN ART

HEAL

CRACKED glassware carefully repaired with brightly coloured braids takes centre stage in this exhibition of sculptures by fledgling Thai artist Thanistha Nuntapojn, whose work explores the healing process Thai society has undergone since the 2010 demonstrations. Boromratchonnee Rd. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (Closed Mon). 02 422 2092 :ardelgallery.com

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What’s On|Performance

Performance DEC 7 & 8

BONANZA, KHAO YAI

BIG MOUNTAIN MUSIC FESTIVAL 5

NOW in its fi fth year, Thailand’s biggest annual outdoor music festival returns once again with a genre-hopping line-up of local and international artists. Missing the tents ‘n’ beers camaraderie of summer festivals back home? Get yourself a ticket and join in the fun.

NOV 28

Tickets: B1,900 for two day pass (buy five get one free). Camping starts at B450 :thaiticketmajor.com

BITEC

TWO DOOR CINEMA CLUB

WITH two hit albums under their belt, numerous world tours, tons of critical acclaim and a fan base that would give Bono a run for his money, Two Door Cinema Club look set to put on a cracking show when they bring their impossibly catchy tunes to Bangkok. Support from Kyoto Protocol (Malaysia) and Tabasco (Thailand). Tickets: B2,000 or B2,500 :thaiticketmajor.com

DEC 6 & 7

Show starts 7.30pm.

THE INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE, CHIANG MAI

DEC 2

BANGKOK CONVENTION CENTRE, CENTRAL PLAZA LADPRAO

CHIANG MAI JAZZ FESTIVAL NO. 3

ENGELBERT HUMPERDINCK LIVE THE world-famous British pop crooner is set to make hearts swoon with charming renditions of his smash hits Quando Quando Quando, Release Me, The Last Waltz, Am I That Easy To Forget, Spanish Eyes, Les Bicyclettes De Belsize, and more. Tickets range B2,500-B5,000 :thaiticketmajor.com

Show starts at 8pm.

NOV 21 – DEC 5 NOV 16

K VILLAGE, SUKHUMVIT SOI 26

INVITATION TO THE DANCE

CONDUCTED by Chulayuth Lochotinan, the Bangkok Charity Orchestra (BCO) will perform an afternoon of dance music from Bach to Shostakovich – all in the aid of Childline through Plan International. The orchestra consists of music professionals and experienced amateurs who, since 2010, have raised a whopping B4million for charity. Impressive. Tickets: B1,000 (B700 Students) :charityorchestra.org Show starts 3pm.

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BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE

THE INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVAL 2013: THE ROAD TO ASEAN

PRESENTED by the Friends of the Arts Foundation, the 13th edition of this popular annual festival will bring together dance companies from around the globe for a series of performances and workshops. Among them: the breathtaking Vertical Dance Company ‘Il Posto’ from Italy; legendary Israeli choreographer and dancer Rina Schenfeld and her company, The Rina Schenfeld Dance Theatre; and the Maya Dance Theatre from Singapore. :dance-festival.info/?p=288.

FINE wines, tasty bites, and performances by over 50 local and international artists are just three of the reasons why this annual festival pulls in hundreds of spectators. Join them and you’ll also enjoy great views of Chiang Mai Night Safari’s stunning grounds. See thaiticketmajor.com for a full round up of performers. Tickets: B750 per day or B1,300 for a two day pass :thaiticketmajor.com Performances each day 6pm till midnight

NOV 13

CENTRALWORLD LIVE

RICHARD CLAYDERMAN LIVE

THE celebrated German pianist, also known as “The Prince Of Romance,” has recorded over 1,200 melodies, sold 90 million records, and, according to one German music journo, “has arguably done more to popularise the piano around the world than anyone since Beethoven.” Take a hanky; it could get emotional. Tickets range B1,800-B4,500 :thaiticketmajor.com

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What’s On|Outdoors

Sport NOV 16 – 17 & 23 – 24

THANYAPURA SPORTS AND LEISURE CLUB, PHUKET

SOCCER 7S IN PHUKET

KICKING off eleven years ago with just two visiting teams playing on a vacant lot between two buildings, the annual Phuket Soccer 7s tournament (Nov 2324) now draws in up to 80 teams from 20 different countries. The Andaman International Soccer 7s (Nov 16-17), its twin tournament, is just as popular,

and this year The BigChilli is even getting in on the action by entering a team (hosted by Tune Hotels and sponsored by GS Battery). Here’s hoping that, alongside their hangovers, our underdogs have what it takes to bring back the coveted trophy. :Thai7s.com

DEC 12 – 15

AMATA SPRING COUNTRY CLUB CHONBURI

THAILAND GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP 2013

THE third edition of the Thailand Golf Championship will host some of biggest names in world golf, including defending champion and 2011 Masters winner Charl Schwartzel; 2013 US Open champion Justin Rose; and 2012 Masters winner Bubba Watson, as well as Sergio Garcia and Henrik Stenson, who recently claimed both the Tour Championship and FedEx Cup crowns. Tickets range B300-B800 :thaiticketmajormajor.com

NOV 24 & DEC 1 NOV 17

BANGKOK

STANDARD CHARTERED BANGKOK MARATHON

JOIN runners from all around the world and push yourself to the limit in this popular annual marathon. Half marathon and fun run categories are also available. :bkkmarathon.com

DEC 1 – 6

KATA BAY, PHUKET

KING’S CUP REGATTA

ASIA’S biggest and most popular regatta returns next month for its 27th annual outing, bringing together over 100 vessels comprising full-scale racers, International Grand Prix racing boats, racing catamarans and a vast fleet of diverse sailing, cruising and racing craft, to compete for Asia’s most coveted prize in competitive sailing – the famed King’s Cup. The five days of highly charged racing are complemented by six beachside parties hosted by some of Phuket’s most recognisable names in hospitality, including host venue Kata Beach Resort & Spa, with close to 2,000 guests attending nightly. :kingscup.com

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LAGUNA PHUKET RESORT

LAGUNA PHUKET TRIATHLON & CHALLENGE LAGUNA PHUKET

ATHLETES have two competitions to look forward to in Phuket this month. On Nov 24 the Laguna Phuket Triathlon (20th edition) will feature a unique 1.8km swim, 55km bike and 12km run through spectacular tropical scenery. Then, on Dec 1, the inaugural Challenge Laguna Phuket will bring a half iron distance event to the same stunning surroundings. :challengelagunaphuket.com

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What’s On|Sport

Thai football in focus

SOCCER PUNDIT PAUL HEWITT EXAMINES WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE WORLD OF THAI FOOTBALL

Iron Bulls and Port Lions fight it out!

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THE battle for promotion between arguably the two biggest clubs in Bangkok-proper, Singhtarua FC and Bangkok FC, had been steadily coming to the boil for months now. It had become increasingly clear that Air Force FC and PTT Rayong would take the top two places in League 1 leaving the ‘Port Lions’ and the ‘Iron Bulls’ to fight it out for the third and final promotion spot (PTT however fell away a little and going into the final matchday of the season were still yet to guarantee their place in the 2014 TPL). Unfortunately “fight it out” was taken too literally by fans after the match between the two on October 5. The game had been billed as a ‘promotion decider’ (in truth it was never that) and the honours were taken by home side Bangkok FC as they recorded a fairly comfortable 2-1 win over the men from Khlong Toey in front of 6,390 fans –

approximately 2,000 following Singhtarua. The build-up to the match included the police taking centre stage as they held a meeting, to which the media were invited, with representatives from the TPL and both clubs regarding the policing of a match which had ‘powder keg’ written all

over it. Unfortunately, despite the police’s best intentions, the day failed to pass off peacefully to say the least as fans did battle inside and outside the Bang Mod Stadium in Thonburi. We’ve managed to get several eyewitness accounts.

Lillian Suwanrumpha (photographer and Singhtarua fan)

“I didn’t see what started the incident in the stands, but as far as I know a few of the away support blew off some fireworks behind the home stands after the final whistle and the home support retaliated by throwing stuff at them from above. Throughout the second half, opposing support were already shouting and gesturing at each other despite having a barricade of police in between them. For some reason the majority of the police force were still in the stands even as supporters began to leave the stadium, so it was an uphill struggle to keep supporters separated from that point onwards. It’s difficult to say what happened as I was too far away to see anything apart from a few supporters from each club running at each other haphazardly and throwing flags and plastic bottles at each other. I didn’t witness physical contact but as far as I know, three people were hurt; one allegedly fell out of the stands whilst running. There were rumours amongst the Singhtarua fans that there was going to be trouble regardless of the outcome. It’s hard to say if all of the troublemakers were real supporters or not – I don’t know the BKK FC support well, but many of the Singhtarua support are usually quick to spot total strangers wearing their colours at PAT stadium and tend to deal with them in-house (either by wrestling them out of the stands or throwing them onto the pitch). But I also find it difficult to believe that they wouldn’t be able to spot anyone who didn’t belong there that day so I’d have to conclude that a few of the regular support may be taking their frustrations out after an unwelcome result.”

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Malky (neutral, football blogger at bkkfootballblog.blogspot.com)

“Before the match the away fans were in good spirits and the atmosphere was friendly. However, having watched a lot of both sides frequently, I had a nasty feeling that it would kick off at some point. The combination of alcohol mixed with the sensitive side of Thai people doesn’t bode well. Also they don’t take defeat too kindly. There were lots of police and security present, and during the match they seemed to have things under control. There were a few shouts of ‘kee gohng’ etc but that’s the norm for most matches. Coming out of the stadium you could feel it was going to turn nasty. I’m just grateful we got a cab quickly as my mate had his four year-old-son with him. We didn’t see any trouble but it must have kicked off moments after we left.”

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Sven Beyrich (neutral, webmaster at www.thai-fussball.com)

“The riots broke out while I was talking to Tarua player Patrick Reichelt inside the ground on the far end of where everything happened. What we saw first was that people from the middle of the stand were chasing others. We soon discovered they were Tarua fans. Bangkok fans fled to the left-hand end (seen from the main stand) but couldn’t escape. Apparently the exit there was closed, meanwhile some fans tried to jump off the terrace. We didn’t know what really sparked it, but apparently it wasn’t from inside the stadium. Later I asked some people outside the ground, but still no one could really say who and what started it. To be honest, as a Westerner, I never felt I could get in trouble or danger. But that was inside the stadium. The strange thing was that during the game all gates were closed and everything was well segregated. Only two gates were open in the grandstand, the far end at BKK FC side and the far end at the Tarua end. Even between both sides two blocks were left empty and security was sitting in the empty area between the two fan groups. So the only explanation to me is either Tarua fans were able to get to BKK fans from their end directly or after the game when all gates were open in order to let people go out.”

Dominick (Singhtarua fan)

“Both sets of fans were spoiling for a fight. Some Port [aka Tarua] fans were hitting random bikes parked at the ground then in response BKK fans were throwing stuff from their stand on to the Port fans walking past. These missiles caused the main fight where Port fans rushed the away stand. Policing was concentrated between the main covered stand and the away stand neglecting the fact that the only route away fans would have out of the stadium passed the uncovered home stand, where the more hardcore fans were. There were some random clashes outside. As always a minority on both sides going a bit nuts after a tense and important game.”

At the time of writing, the penultimate round of matches has just been played. Air Force were confirmed as champions but the battle for the final two promotion places will go down to the final day. Singhtarua host champions Air Force whilst Bangkok FC and PTT, the other two teams still in the hunt, play each other! It’s fair to say that both of these matches can be considered high-risk off the pitch. Full details of all the ups and downs from the final day of the TPL and League 1 will be covered in the December issue.

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What’s On|Screen And Stereo

Movies & music NOV 28

COMEDY/DRAMA

DON JON

NOV 21

ACTION/ADVENTURE/ THRILLER

THE HUNGER GAMES: CATCHING FIRE

SHE may have won the 74th annual Hunger Games, but Katniss Everdeen (Jennifer Lawrence) isn’t free from trouble just yet: while a rebellion is starting to brew, the evil President Snow (Donald Sutherland) is very much in control and the next edition of his Games could change Panem forever. Cue lots of fighting and moody stares.

DEC 12

ADVENTURE/FANTASY

THE HOBBIT 2: THE DESOLATION OF SMAUG

ENJOY more beardy adventures in Middle Earth as Bilbo Baggins (Martin Freeman), Gandalf (Ian McKellan) and the thirteen Dwarves led by Thorin Oakenshield (Richard Armitage) continue their epic quest to reclaim the lost Dwarf Kingdom of Erebor.

NOV 28

ACTION/COMEDY/SCI-FI

THE WORLD’S END

WRITTEN, directed by, and starring the super talented Joseph GordonLevitt, this rom-com puts porn addiction in the spotlight, exploring how a sex obsessed fellow like Jon Martello (Gordon-Levitt) – nicknamed Don Jon by his buddies – struggles to find love with a bright, beautiful, and old-fashioned girl called Barbara Sugarman (Scarlett Johanssan), who was raised on romantic Hollywood movies.

THE final movie in Edgar Wright’s so-called Three Flavours Cornetto Trilogy (Shaun of the Dead, Hot Fuzz) starring Simon Pegg and Nick Frost is, thank the gods of comedy, actually coming to cinemas in Thailand. A science-fiction laugh-fest which sees five childhood friends attempt to recreate an epic pub crawl they had 20 years earlier, only to find themselves fighting aliens, the movie scored an impressive 89 percent on review aggregator Rotten Tomatoes. Cosmic. Movie screenings are subject to change. Keep up to date at movieseer.com

MEMORY LANE

NEW MUSIC AVRIL LAVIGNE

ART POP

(Release date: Nov 5)

(Release date: Nov 11)

AVRIL LAVIGNE

FREE YOUR MIND

BAPTISED

(Release date: Nov 5)

(Release date: Nov 19)

CUT COPY

DAUGHTRY

THE MARSHALL MATHERS LP 2

MIDNIGHT MEMORIES

(Release date: Nov 5)

(Release date: Nov 25)

EMINEM

ONE DIRECTION

SNOW GLOBE

BRITNEY JEAN

(Release date: Nov 11)

(Release date: Dec 3)

ERASURE

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BRITNEY SPEARS

TOPPING THE UK CHARTS NOV 1973

1. New Seekers – You Won’t Find Another Fool Like Me 2. Gary Glitter – I Love You Love Me Love 3. Alvin Stardust – My Coo-Ca-Choo 4. Marie Osmond – Paper Roses 5. Donny Osmond – When I Fall In Love 6. Gilbert O’Sullivan – Why Oh Why Oh Why 7. David Essex – Lamplight 8. Barry Blue – Do You Wanna Dance 9. Mott The Hoople – Roll Away The Stone 10. Roxy Music – Street Life

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Entertainment|Humour

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Send your jokes to thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Jokes Just for fun

Entertainment|Humour

SHOCKED BOY

HTS THOUG E H OF T MONTH

A FAMILY is given some venison by a friend and the wife cooks the deer and serves it up for dinner. “What is this?” asks their young daughter. “Is it beef?” “No,” says the father. “Is it pork?” asks their young son. “No,” replies the father. “I’ll give you a clue. It’s what mum sometimes calls me.” “Spit it out, sis!” yells the boy. “We’re eating a*****e!”

1. LeAnn Rimes. No it doesn’t. – Matt Winning 2. I want to have a picture of a tall homeless guy, just so I can say, “Does my bum look big in this?” – Paul Pirie 3. I live in the green-belt area, which means I’m crap at karate. – Alex Horne 4. I farted the other day and decided to Shazam it. It came back with One Direction. – Paul Zerdin 5. A man asked me if I had a faith book. I couldn’t work out if he was religious or just had a lisp. – Mark Smith

SOMETHING FISHY

A MAN walks into a fishmongers carrying a large salmon under his arm. “Do you make fishcakes?” he asks. “Of course we do,” replies the fishmonger. “Oh good,” says the man, “it’s his birthday.”

NAMED AND SHAMED

A PSYCHIATRIST is conducting a group therapy session with four young mothers and their small children. “You all have obsessions,” he observes. To the first mum, Angie, he says: “You are obsessed with eating. You even named your daughter Candy.” He turns to the second mum, Sarah: “Your obsession is with money. Again, it manifests itself in your child’s name, Penny.” He turns to the third mum, Laura: “Your obsession is alcohol. This too manifests itself in your child’s name, Brandy.” At this point, the fourth mother, Sophie, gets up, takes her little boy by the hand and whispers: “Come on, Dick, we’re leaving.”

JO OF TKE MO HE NTH

NICE MOVES

A MAN goes into a bookshop. He approaches a woman behind the counter and says: “Do you keep stationery here?” “No,” replies the woman. “Sometimes I wriggle about a bit.”

GIVE US FIVE GARY DELANEY 1. Fun idea… Not got kids? Hire a baby-sitter anyway, say your kid is asleep upstairs and not to be woken. On your return, ask where your child is. 2. I just bought an alcoholic ginger beer. He didn’t seem best-pleased. 3. What do we want? Time-travel. When do we want it? Doesn’t matter. 4. I think the most disappointing thing about being sent to a POW camp would be finding out it’s not where they teach you to fight like Batman. 5. I just got a parking ticket outside the Children’s Television Workshop. Apparently it’s Kermit holders only.

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Social p Last month’s best events in pictures

FIGHT NIGHT’S ANOTHER KNOCKOUT SUCCESS A SELL-out audience of almost 400 enjoyed Operation Smile Thailand’s third annual Fight Night fundraiser at the Dusit Thani Hotel. Some three million baht was raised for one of Thailand’s worthiest charities at this popular adrenaline-charged event, which featured four bouts of “white collar” boxing as the keynote and sometimes bruising entertainment. Boxers included corporate leaders from the oil and gas, hospitality, transportation, project

management and media industries. All trained for months in order to compete in what is now Bangkok’s must-attend event. Event Chair and OST board member Therese Beauvais along with OST’s Shannon Blocker and Dyan Zimmerman ensured Fight Night was yet another pulsating success. They were helped by boxing trainer Craig Somerville and his team. Putting aside business matters to put on boxing gloves and compete in the ring

were David Shackleton, Richard Cohen, Matt Christensen, Richard Bell, Les Weaver, Franck Marin, Jon A. Nutt and The BigChilli’s Colin Hastings. Main event sponsors were Chevron, Chang Export, JVK International, Foamtec International, Hemaraj, Bourbon Street Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Jelly Belly, Weatherford International, RSM Advisory (Thailand), Loscam Thailand, Bank of Ayudhya and Dusit Thani Bangkok. TheBigChilli 101

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

EDNA O’BRIEN SPEAKS AT SEA WRITE AWARD A packed house enjoyed the 35th annual SEA Write Award Ceremony and gala luncheon presided over by Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn in the Ballroom of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. All 10 ASEAN countries participated in the award, with writers from each giving a short speech. Irish author Edna O’Brien, whose acclaimed novels include The Country Girls and The Light of Evening, was the keynote speaker.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

SPECTACULAR OPENING FOR KU DÉ TA CELEBRITIES, models, and socialites of all nationalities were out in force for the grand opening of Ku Dé Ta Bangkok, which fuelled the party with free-flow champagne, tasty nibbles, and live entertainment. The luxurious venue is located on the 39th and 40th floors of Sathorn Square Building.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

MOVERS AND SHAKERS AT HILTON SUKHUMVIT ANOTHER great night of networking was enjoyed by executives from Pattaya, Bangkok and beyond at the September edition of the popular Movers and Shakers charity networking event, which was sponsored by Kingdom Property and held at the Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok Hotel.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

PINK-TASTIC FUN AT HARD ROCK HARD Rock Cafe Bangkok marked the return of the brand’s annual Pinktober breast cancer awareness programme with a party night featuring free-flow drinks, a performance by American singer TOMA, a live auction of stunning pictures by celebrated French photographer Daniel Cordonnier, and a boogie-inducing show from the top-secret dance performance team.

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THE ART OF HOSTING WITH CHIVAS

CHIVAS Regal celebrated the ‘Art of Hosting’ with an exclusive party at Long Table, Column Tower on Sukhumvit 16, where it brought together the city’s most popular male celebs and leading businessmen to share their experiences with a large crowd of VIPs.

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IN BED WITH SPACE

THERE was double the fun when In Bed With Space, the legendary party from Ibiza, arrived in Bangkok with two simultaneous parties at Q Bar and Bash Club. Photographs by David Heischrek.

BLUES AGE REVIVAL

HOTEL Muse celebrated the grand opening night of its “Blues Age Revival in Langsuan” concert series at Medici Kitchen & Bar with an exclusive show by famous Thai musician Khun Jirapan Ansvanunda, who shared the stage with Danny California’s Allstars Blues Band and Derrick Big walker. For details of upcoming performances see hotelmusebangkok.com.

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A TASTE OF SURF AND TURF

AMBAR Steakhouse at Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15, held a sneak-preview dinner to showcase its new ‘Surf & Turf’ promotion, which will be available at the restaurant from Nov 1 onwards. Diners wrapped their mouth around top quality steak and the freshest local seafood, leaving with full stomachs, big grins, and vows to return for more.

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DRAUGHT MASTERS CELEBRATED THE Thailand final of the Stella Artois World Draught Masters 2013 competition saw bartenders from the city’s top bars putting their beer pouring skills to the test at Wine I Love You on Sukhumvit Soi 26. Winning the top three places and landing a chance to represent Thailand in the regional final were Pankorn Taksinbut from HOBS Rain Hill, Samart Nhongmesup from Hyde & Seek Gastro Bar, and Supatra Wicharapote from Beerosophy 101.

PINTSMAN’S STELLA SHOWcASE BEER fans packed The Pintsman Pub on Silom Road when it held a ‘Pour It Yourself’ event hosted by Stella Artois, whose representatives were on hand to show punters how to pour the perfect pint and also offered their beer at special prices. Adding to the fun was a live performance by Rockability, who played a range of international rock hits.

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BRAZILIAN STEAKHOUSE BRAZILIA, the city’s only Brazilian steakhouse and Churrascaria, located on Sukhumvit Soi 29, celebrated its grand opening with a fun party featuring free flow drinks, snacks, pizzas and a showcase of the mouthwatering meats off the restaurant’s Brazilian style rotisserie. Capping the fun was a thrilling Samba dance performance by genuine Brazilian dance queens.

SPOOKY BIRTHDAY AT WITCH’S EARTH Saiswang, president of the Hotel PR Association of Thailand, celebrated her birthday with a “Halloween Party” at Witch’s Tavern (Thonglor 8-10). The party was attended by a big crowd of celebrities, Hotel PR executives, singers, and many close friends. A mini concert featuring Toon Hiranyasab, Charas Feungarom, and more performers added to the fun.

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ART FOR HeARTS ART lovers flocked to the Pathumwan Princess Hotel for the opening of ‘Water Colour for Children’s Heart,’ a special exhibition by Santi Kittimahatham, Jerawats Putong, and Arunee Triroj, arranged to raise funds for the the Cardiac Children’s Heart Foundation under the patronage of HRH Princess Galyani Vadhana’s sister, Krom Luang Narathiwat.

GLiTTeRiNG oPeNiNG FoR GAySoRN

THe management of Bangkok’s Gaysorn Shopping Centre marked the opening of its luxurious Gaysorn Diamond Lounge with a special event attended by many Thai celebrities and ViP guests. open exclusively to Gaysorn Diamond Members, the Diamond Lounge features a MoeT bar, massage service by THANN Sanctuary, and walk-in-closet dressing room complete with all amenities.

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ROTARIANS CELEBRATE OKTOBERFEST ROTARY Club of Bangkok South held its Oktoberfest lunch at Bei Otto German Restaurant, Sukhumvit Soi 20.

ALL CHAMBERS SUNDOWNERS EXECUTIVES and entrepreneurs of all nationalities enjoyed swapping contact details and stories at the latest All Chambers Sundowners event, which brought together members of all of Thailand’s Chambers of Commerce for a night of networking at Queen’s Park 1, The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events DJ Lab at W Hotel

Fashion Night Thursday at Axis & Spin

KuDeTa Grand Opening Fashion Night Thursday at Axis & Spin

KuDeTa Grand Opening

PARTIES AT A GLANCE PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID HEISCHREK

Fashion Night Thursday at Axis & Spin

Squire Fashion Label Launch at Pullman G Hotel

Squire Fashion Label Launch at Pullman G Hotel

KuDeTa Grand Opening Fabulous Pinktober Charity Event at Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok

Fabulous Pinktober Charity Event at Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok

Fashion Night Thursday at Axis & Spin

Fabulous Pinktober Charity Event at Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok

Fabulous Pinktober Charity Event at Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok

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Social|Around town

MOUNTAIN DEW GOES NEON

PEPSI-Cola (Thai) Trading Co. Ltd officially introduced its refreshing carbonated soft drink “Mountain Dew” with a special launch event which showcased the drink’s unique ‘neon bottle.’ PepsiCo hopes the drink will make a big splash in the Thai flavoured carbonated soft drink market, which last year was valued at a whopping 13 billion baht.

BRAND NOW GETS DOWN TO BUSINESS STCC TURNS 20 IN STYLE THE Singapore Thai Chamber of Commerce (STCC) celebrated its 20th anniversary by hosting a charity gala dinner at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. An auction and raffle raised a total of 900,000 baht, which was donated to charities supported by STCC.

BNOW (Bangkok Now) gave an interactive dinner talk at the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Thailand (FCCT) on how to successfully plan a marketing and PR campaign. Pacharee Pantoomano and Kittima Sethi, co-owners of boutique marketing and PR company Brand Now Co., Ltd, presented the framework of a marketing and PR plan. They shared the process on how to plan a marketing and PR campaign, how to create a roll-out timeline and how to work with the media to maximize awareness and gain PR coverage

RADISSON BLU TAKES FLIGHT

THE pre-opening management team of the upcoming Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok got together to celebrate their first ‘Radisson Blu Day,’ an annual initiative held at the 40 Radisson Blu hotels and regional offices in Asia Pacific featuring special activities for hotel guests, corporate clients, employees, key stakeholders and media. Staff of the Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok marked the occasion by announcing the official opening date of the property (February next year) as well as by launching the Wow Chula, a star-shaped traditional kite. The hotel is currently being constructed on the corner of Sukhumvit 27. For more info: www.radissonblu.com/plazahotel-bangkok.

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Social|Around Last Month’s town Best Events

NOK AIR LINKS WITH YANGON

NOK Air celebrated the launch of its first international flight from Bangkok-Don Mueang International Airport to Yangon, Myanmar. The low-cost airline now offers one flight per day on Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sun. Throughout December it will offer two flights on the days mentioned, and from January 1 onwards will offer two flights daily. All flights will be served by a Boeing 737-800 with 189 seats. Passengers can enjoy traveling with 15kg baggage allowance, selected snacks on board and free seat selection. For more info: www.nokair.com

BIg ScreeN FuN WITH TOYOTA

THAILAND’S top movie directors and stars flocked to Paragon cineplex for the final round of The Style by Toyota 9FilmFest 2013, where panelists Prachya Pinkaew, Brian Bennett, Pop Areeya, and Ananda everingham handed the Best Film Award to short-film maker Disspong Sampattavanich for his movie, guardians. For his cinematic efforts, Disspong also received a brand new Toyota VIOS. For more info: www.9filmfest.com

cOKe geTS PerSONAL

AFTer enjoying huge success in europe and the States, coca-cola’s “Be Fizzy, Be Bold, Share a coke” campaign was introduced to Thailand with a special event attended by many Thai celebs who all enjoyed showing off cans of coke with their nicknames scrawled on the side. Over 250 million cans and bottles with various Thai nicknames and complimentary words are now available in stores throughout the kingdom, with top collectors able to win prizes such as special tour packages to watch the World cup in Brazil. For more info: www.icoke.co.th

LAND SecurITIeS LAuNcHeS uK PrOPerTY INVeSTMeNT OPPOrTuNITY

LAND Securities, one of the largest commercial property companies in the uK, revealed one of its most luxurious and prestigious projects to date with a press conference at All Season Place. The development, called Kings gate, consists of 100 elegant apartments across 14 floors in Victoria, London, and is due for completion in January 2015. Shrewd non-British investors may be pleased to know that leases offered are 999 year lease agreements – a typical British lease that offers a lease for generations to come. For more info: www.kingsgatesw1.co.uk

VeSPA zOOMS INTO TOWN

ScOOTer fans’ dreams came true last month when the much-loved Vespa officially opened its Flagship Store at A Square, Sukhumvit 26, by launching its Vespa LX 125 3Vie Vintage edition 2556, a two-tone limited edition beauty available in “green Soda” (green / Beige) and “Blue Kamron” (Baby Blue / Beige). For more info: www.vespa.co.th

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DIPLOMATS p Meet the people uniting nations

HE Mr Marc Thill

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Diplomats

HE Mr Marc Thill|Luxembourg

Luxembourg: Small nation at the heart of Europe with big ideas in Thailand By Maxmilian Wechsler

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EVERY foreign embassy in Bangkok boasts a display designed to capture the essence of the country and make an impression on visitors. The embassy of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg succeeds with an impressive range of huge photographs depicting Luxembourg’s countryside on some of its walls. The significant role of the monarchy is also emphasized with a large photo of HRH Grand Duke Henri, Luxembourg’s head of state, placed prominently near entrance to the embassy, alongside a group photo of royal personages from all over the world who attended the 60th anniversary celebration of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s accession to the throne in 2006. Despite its relatively small size and population – about 530,000 people in an area slightly more than 2,500 square kilometers – Luxembourg occupies an important position within the 28-member European Union and maintains strong relations with many countries around the globe, a point stressed by His Excellency Marc Thill, Ambassador of Luxembourg to the Kingdom of Thailand. Asked about the embassy’s attractive interior on the 17th floor of Q House Lumpini on Sathorn Road, Mr Thill said it was inspired by a Thai designer, while the large photographs came directly from Luxembourg. As for his background, the Ambassador said: “I was born in very small village in 1953. I attended secondary school in the capital, the city of Luxembourg, as at that time we didn’t have too many secondary schools around the country. I furthered my education abroad, obtaining a degree in law from Liège, Belgium, because, again, at that time there were no universities in Luxembourg. I then earned a diploma in European Studies at the College of Europe in Bruges, also in Belgium, in 1976,” said Mr Thill. A year later he started work at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA) as a civil servant and rose rapidly despite his youth. “In the beginning, I worked with Gaston Thorn, who

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served in high positions both domestically and internationally, including as prime minister from 1974 to 1979, president of the United Nations General Assembly in 1975-76 and president of the European Commission from 1981until 1985.” Mr Thill left the MFA in 1986 because he wanted to practice law. He went to work at the European Court of Justice of the European Union, which is seated in Luxembourg, returning to the MFA in 2003 when he had the opportunity to become director of European Affairs and International Economic Relations for the ministry. In 2005 he was appointed as ambassador and representative of Luxembourg to the Organization for Security and Co-operation in Europe in Vienna, Austria, and concurrently accredited as ambassador to Hungary and the Slovak Republic, positions he held until he was appointed ambassador to the Kingdom of Thailand in 2011. Mr Thill speaks Luxembourgish, French, German and English, but said that, unfortunately, he finds the Thai language a little too difficult. He is married with two children, aged 28 and 30. His wife is an active member of various clubs, including the well-known Spouses of the Heads of Mission, who have regular activities in Bangkok.

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The world’s leading satellite operator, SES, which has its headquarters in Luxembourg and operates around 50 satellites, has good business links in Thailand.

“My first visit to Thailand was in 2006. At that time I combined a professional visit to attend a conference with tourism. I stayed a little longer in order to visit the northern part of the country and spend a few days on the beach. “However, I should point out that the professional reason I first came here may seem a little strange, because the conference was held by the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe. Why did the meeting take place in Thailand? Thailand was and is one of the organization’s ‘Asian partners,’ and a very active one at that. In fact Thailand frequently hosts seminars and conferences for this and other European organizations. “My next trip to this country was after I was appointed ambassador, when I arrived on September 1, 2011,” said Mr Thill, adding that he doesn’t consider himself an expert on Asia. He has learned a great deal in a relatively short time, however, as he is concurrently ambassador to Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam, ASEAN (headquartered in Jakarta) and, since September 25, to Myanmar. The scope of the assignment reflects the obvious confidence his ministry has in him. As a small country, Luxembourg has understandably streamlined its diplomatic service. “We have only four embassies in Asia and only one in Southeast Asia, in Thailand. The other embassies we have in Asia are in China, Japan and India. “I am very happy with our embassy in Bangkok, which is relatively small. We are located in a very nice, modern building in a good environment close to Lumpini Park and not far from my residence. We have four diplomats here from Luxembourg, including myself, and a few local employees – three secretaries and one consular assistant who works a half day, and the embassy drivers.

Turning to Thailand

“We have a very small team at the embassy, which means it is not difficult for me to lead because we are so few, but on the other hand, we have to take good care of a little bit of everything. As mentioned, we are in charge of almost all Southeast Asia, and we also have to take care of the embassy’s consular, trade, political and cultural sections, as well as the budget. Sometimes we travel a lot and must be out of Bangkok for several weeks at a time. “I am always saying that we have only seven days in a week and eight, ten or twelve hours a day, so we have to focus on the priority at the given moment. If something special is going on which is of interest to us in one of Thailand’s neighboring counties, then we have to take care of it first. If our minister is coming to Thailand or to Indonesia, for example, then we have to focus on this matter and cannot follow absolutely everything occurring in other countries on a daily basis,” said Mr Thill. “For example, during the last year I focused a lot on Singapore because our prime minister paid an official visit there. I also focused a lot on Myanmar – even though at that time I was still waiting to present my credentials there – because our minister of foreign affairs went there and we have an economic mission in Myanmar as well. “However, Thailand must always be a primary focus and we follow very closely what is going on here in order to be able to look after our citizens who live here as well as Thai people wishing to visit Luxembourg, whether for business or otherwise. “We also have to look after our nationals who are living in other countries under this embassy’s jurisdiction, like Indonesia. This is sometimes difficult, but it helps that Luxembourg has arrangements with our neighboring countries of Belgium and the Netherlands, who are our longtime partners. We have a close cooperation with them on visa, consular and other matters. We also have in each of the countries under my jurisdiction honorary consuls and foreign trade councils who are also very helpful,” said Mr Thill. “As for Luxembourg nationals living in Thailand, the exact number is difficult to estimate because our citizens don’t have to register with our embassy. My estimate is that 120 Luxembourg nationals are living in Thailand permanently. This is a high number in comparison to the population of Luxembourg and the Luxembourg nationals living there. In fact, it would be equivalent to about 32,000 Germans, taking into account the German population of 80 million. I should also point out that the number of our citizens living in Thailand is increasing as more people come for retirement. There are about 400 Thais residing in Luxembourg. “As head of our Bangkok embassy, I receive a lot of information from different sources and from various countries. I have to say that I have a rather big administrative burden, so I don’t have as much time as I’d like to reach out and make contact with Thai society. I am doing my best to participate and meet people in seminars and meetings, but sometimes this is difficult as we are a small team with many responsibilities.”

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HE Mr Marc Thill|Luxembourg

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Bilateral relations and trade

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Thailand and Luxembourg celebrated 50 years of diplomatic relations in 1959, though the first ambassador of Luxembourg to actually reside in Thailand arrived in September 2007, and the embassy was officially inaugurated by Luxembourg’s Minister of Foreign Affairs in May 2008. “Beforehand, our embassy in Southeast Asia was located in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. We decided to transfer the embassy to Thailand because Thailand is one of the biggest economies in Southeast Asia, and there are so many of our citizens here. Thailand is also geographically better located to serve all the countries. “Relations between our two countries are excellent, but that doesn’t mean we can’t do better, for instance in the trade sector. Thailand is our second largest trading partner in Southeast Asia after Singapore. Of course the trade of goods – because of its modest level – depends a lot on individual contracts. “It happens that in one year trade may increase a lot, and then fall down again the next. It is important that we stabilize

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this on a positive trend. As far as exports from Thailand to Luxembourg are concerned, we have noticed that these decreased with the European economic crisis in 2008 and 2009 and since then have risen but haven’t came back to levels before the crisis. So it is important that Thais rediscover the Luxembourg market. “Luxembourg’s economy is based on services, mainly financial services. In this area we have a good relationship with Thailand, but it is also stagnating a little. Therefore, we should work together to make progress, and we are very hopeful that we can do so. Recently, in November 2012, we signed an important agreement between our countries’ financial regulators, on the Luxembourg side the Commission de Surveillance du Secteur Financier and on the Thai side the Securities Exchange Commission,” explained Mr Thill. “The bilateral agreement of cooperation was signed to promote relations in the financial sector and we are also putting a lot of emphasis on the ongoing EU-Thai free trade agreement, which will cover not only goods but also services

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and investment. There could be an agreement in the negotiations liberalizing trading services somewhat, and if so there certainly would be big opportunities for Luxembourg’s financial service operators and investors to have more of a presence in Thailand. “The main business focus of Luxembourg’s companies at present is in the Eurozone and neighboring countries, which account for 85 percent of our foreign trade. We have only half a dozen big players who have a global presence and have headquarters or factories in Asia. Some of them are based in Singapore, a very important country for Luxembourg. “We also have some large companies operating in Thailand, for example Cargolux, our national air freight carrier, which has had an office in Bangkok for 30 years and flies four to five times a week between Bangkok and Luxembourg. The goods they bring into my country are not all meant for our market – because we are centrally located in Europe, we are a gateway for Thai products dispatched to neighboring countries. “ArcelorMittal is the biggest steel company in the world, with headquarters in Luxembourg. They were interested in buying a factory in Thailand, but it didn’t happen, largely because of the economic and financial crisis. However, in the past Luxembourg steel has been used to build important buildings here, including, apparently, the popular MBK. I believe that in the building our embassy is located, one Luxembourg firm was involved in the construction by providing marble. A Luxembourg firm also participated in the construction of the first blast furnace in Thailand. “The world’s leading satellite operator, SES, which has its headquarters in Luxembourg and operates around 50 satellites, has good business links in Thailand. We have major companies operating here, but we have difficulties in establishing a presence for smaller enterprises. Even when they happen to have an office here, they are more likely to be importing goods and distributing them rather than producing here. For example, Rotarex has an office here and provides automotive parts to Thailand’s motor industry.”

Banking and tax laws

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On questions concerning Luxembourg’s banking and tax laws and regulations, Mr Thill replied: “As one of the world’s leading financial centers, Luxembourg has always been very supportive of all initiatives, not only European initiatives, in favor of a transparent, safe and fair financial sector. Luxembourg has taken all the necessary measures recommended by the Financial Action Task Force, of which it is a member since 1990, in order to criminalize all money laundering activities and all activities which might contribute to the financing of terrorism. “Luxembourg’s banking practices are not secretive, even though we have always considered that client privacy is – and remains - an important value also in the banking sector. Luxembourg has a large network of non-double taxation treaties around the world, also with Thailand, consistent with

the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) model and the exchange of information on demand, on a case-by-case basis. “Luxembourg’s legislations and its subsequent banking and tax regulations are strictly compliant with existing EU legislations. The European Commission, as a guardian of the successive EU treaties, and the European Court of Justice (ECJ) are there to guarantee the application of European law and the statistics published by both institutions as well as the case-law of the ECJ easily show that Luxembourg is indeed among the first in class when it comes to honoring its European commitments. “Luxembourg is also a member of the Global Forum on Transparency and Exchange of Information for Tax Purposes and is strongly committed to implementing the highest standards in tax transparency and thus combating tax fraud and tax evasion.”

Cultural exchanges and tourism Mr Thill noted that His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej and Her Royal Highness Queen Sirikit visited Luxembourg in 1960, one year after the establishment of formal diplomatic ties, and relations between the two royal families remain excellent. “His Royal Highness Grand Duke Henri, who became the Grand Duke in 2000, used to come to Thailand on a regular basis when he was the Crown Prince. In the 1990s he came at least three times on official visits. In 1996 he attended the festivities of the 50th anniversary of the King’s accession to throne and he came here for the 60th anniversary in 2006 as well. Every time he comes to this region, he wants to come to Bangkok. The last time he visited Bangkok was in 2011 while on the way to a state visit to Vietnam. “In the past two or three years there haven’t been many toplevel visits on our side, but this is probably due to the economic problems we have had in Europe and also because our prime

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HE Mr Marc Thill|Luxembourg

minister was for several years presiding over the Eurozone-Group of ministers of Finance. However, there have been important visits, for instance from our minister of foreign affairs, in 2006, 2008 and in 2009. An economic mission in 2008 was headed by our minister of economy. Contacts are regular, but we are looking for more opportunities for exchanges at the ministerial level.” Mr Thill said that out of a population of about 530,000 in Luxembourg, only around 300,000 are citizens, so about 45 percent are foreigners, the highest proportion of any EU country. Therefore he was only able to give statistics on tourism relating to Luxembourg citizens who have passports. “Thailand is the main destination of Luxembourg tourists outside of Europe, and the number is increasing. “The final figures I have are for 2011, when 4,000 of our citizens came here. This may sound like a very modest figure, but keep in mind our small population – again, compared to the overall population of Germany, this figure is equivalent to more than one million tourists. I must also say that the Luxembourg tourists coming here are highly disciplined and very rarely cause or have any problems. “Giving exact figures for the number of Thais visiting Luxembourg is a little more difficult because they normally visit Europe on a Schengen visa. “Did you know,” mused the Ambassador, “that Schengen is a village in Luxembourg in the Moselle region? Schengen was chosen in 1985 by the founding members of the Schengen scheme – Belgium, France, Germany, Luxembourg and the Netherlands – as the place to sign the agreement because the village is located where the borders of France, Luxembourg and Germany meet. In many ways Luxembourg is a sort of European cultural ‘melting pot.’ “The official language of Luxembourg is Luxembourgish, which has a lot of similarities with Mosel-Frankish dialects spoken in Germany. At the age of six, children start to learn German and French as these languages have an official status in Luxembourg. For instance, my reports to our MFA are written in French, as are our laws. But German is the language of some newspapers and other print media, and all the people in government can write and speak in French and German as well as in Luxembourgish. So in effect we have three official languages in Luxembourg,” Mr Thill said. “We are trying to organize more cultural exchanges. A famous Luxembourg pianist performed here last year and this year we are trying to bring an often-rewarded Luxembourg vibraphone musician to Thailand. We are working on other events, but unfortunately, there’s always the question of distance and the cost of bringing the people here. “Luxembourg-made movies regularly participate in film festivals in the region. This year we were in the privileged position of having a movie produced and filmed in Luxembourg presented to open the European Film Festival in Bangkok, with the actors speaking Luxembourgish. Many movies with international stars are produced in Luxembourg as well.”

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Praise for Thailand “As for diplomatic and governmental relations with Thailand, everything is going fine, and the officials of the Thai Foreign Ministry are very helpful, taking the initiative to inform foreign embassies on a regular basis on important topics. If you have any special concerns they are always open and available for appointments. “What I like the most in Thailand are the people, who are truly friendly. I don’t want to use the cliché that Thai people are always smiling, but they are not only smiling, but also very helpful. I can honestly say that I have never worked with more good-natured people. Our local staff is excellent, and my experiences outside the embassy have also been great. “What I don’t like much – and this is probably because I come from a small country whose capital has only about 100,000 people, including the surrounding area – is the traffic situation in Bangkok. But as in big cities around the world, one must adapt. “As I have to share my time between Thailand and other countries under my responsibility, I don’t have as much opportunity for travel in Thailand as I’d like. I have managed to visit some places in the North and Northeast, including Chiang Mai and Udon Thani, and I also went to Phuket recently with other ambassadors from EU countries.” Mr Thill said he was very much impressed with Myanmar during a trip there in February 2012. “I had the responsibility of preparing the way for a visit by our minister of foreign affairs to Myanmar where we had the opportunity to meet ‘the Lady,’ Aung San Suu Kyi. We also met with Prime Minister Thein Sein, the minister of foreign affairs and other officials. It was a big achievement for our embassy staff. At that time I was still waiting to present my credentials in Myanmar, and Luxembourg and Myanmar didn’t even have formal diplomatic relations. Nevertheless, we managed to organize the visit and we are grateful to the Myanmar authorities who were so welcoming. “When we met with Aung San Suu Kyi she hadn’t yet been elected to the parliament – the elections took place in April. The main focus of the discussion was the campaign and the elections, along with the prospects of the country for progress. “I still have two or three years to go in Thailand, so I am sure that I will have the opportunity to visit other regions of the country,” said Mr Thill, adding that the term for an ambassador of Luxembourg is normally four to five years, but can even be extended a bit in certain circumstances. “I love to travel, and there are so many places in Thailand and Asia I have yet to see. I also very much enjoy reading and listening to music in my spare time.” In closing, Mr Thill declared: “For me it is always a great honor to be invited to the Royal Palace in Thailand to participate in various events like the birthday celebrations of His Majesty the King, Her Majesty the Queen or HRH the Crown Prince and other members of the royal family. Such occasions are always for me a very big day.”

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HUA HIN

Cha Am • Pranburi • And beyond...

Enjoy a thorough pampering with Villa Maroc’s new Moroccan Spa Package. Page 132.

News & deals

Hua Hin’s hottest promotions and deals await inside Page 130

Wine Safari

Learn more about Thai wines and see wild animals too! Page 132

Mate’s Rates Friends or family visiting Bangkok? Let them know about these deals! Page 138

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H ua H i n

News and Deals

New Executive Chef joins Hyatt AUSTRIAN national Christoph Trocker has been appointed as the new Executive Chef of the Hyatt Regency Hua Hin Resort. With over 19 years’ cooking experience, the talented chef has worked at top hotels in Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Dubai and China. Prior to moving to Hua Hin, he was Executive Sous Chef at Hyatt on the Bund in Shanghai. “I am happy to work and live in Hua Hin, as this will give me an opportunity to learn more about Thai culture and people,” says the chef, “and I will endeavour to help enhance the quality of food at Hyatt Regency Hua Hin to make a difference to the dining experience of our guests.”

Art classes with Elsie Evans

Classic cars come to town CLASSIC and vintage car fans are in for a treat this month as the 11th annual Hua Hin Automobile Concours will roll into town featuring a fun-filled programme of fundraising activities and gourmet dinners, most of which will take place at Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin. Held from Nov 29 to Dec 1, the event will bring together more than 50 classic cars, including visual treats such as a 1928 Packard 626; a 1964 Corvette Stingray, which was used in the movie “Stingray;” and a Rolls-Royce Silver Dawn, an exclusive model built in England during 1945-1955 which was used by Queen Elizabeth II during a state visit to Thailand. Music and dining is scheduled at the end of the first day’s event at The Venezia and Majestic Creek Hua Hin, and a gala charity dinner will be held on Sat Nov 30 at Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin. Part of the proceeds generated from the Concours will be donated to the Chaipattana Foundation. Tel: 032 512 021-38 email: proffice@chr.co.th

SCOTTISH Artist Elsie Evans, owner of Attic Studios in Bangkok, will this month launch her new series of art classes in Hua Hin at Cool Breeze Café and Bar. Open to nervous beginners and enthusiastic painters, classes will be held twice a day, every Tuesday, beginning Nov 19. The morning session, 10am-1pm, will focus on oil painting for all abilities including intermediate artists. In the afternoon, 2-5pm, students will be given the opportunity to explore and experiment with a variety of media and materials. Tel: 083 301 1314 email: elsievans@gmail.com

Dune opens new Pool Suite TRENDY boutique hotel Dune Hua Hin has launched its newly remodeled Pool Suite with two special rates - B8,900 per night on weekdays (Mon-Thurs); and B10,900 per night on weekends (Fri-Sun). Featuring a contemporary décor inspired by the beach, the room comes equipped with LCD cable TV, DVD player, Nescafe dolce gusto coffee machine, free Wi-Fi, and more modern conveniences. Tel: 032 515 051-3 email: md@dunehuahin.com

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Hilton helps the community IN celebration of Hilton Worldwide’s second annual Global Week of Service, last month more than 100 volunteers from Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa led by GM Michael Schmitt took part in building a School Backyard Garden Project for Bann Kok Chang Pattana School.

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H ua H i n

News and Deals

Sheraton Villas opens with a deal

THE brand new Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas in Prachuap Khirikhan is offering special grand opening room rates for its luxury accommodations. Whether you stay in a One-Bedroom Pool Villa or Duplex Pool Villa Suite, all options feature a private swimming pool, sun lounge, rain shower in the garden, LCD flat panel television, DVD player, spacious work area, and more luxury amenities. Special rates start at B8,000++ for a Pool Villa, ranging up to B16,000++ for a sumptuous Pool Suite Villa. Rates include gourmet breakfast. Tel: 032 708 080 www.sheraton.com/huahinpranburi

Wine Safari with Hua Hin Hills OENOPHILES can immerse themselves in nature, enjoy tasty Thai cuisine, and learn all about Thailand’s fledgling wine industry by joining Hua Hin Hills Vineyard’s new Wine Safari. The one day tour starts with food and Monsoon Valley wines at the Vineyard followed by a trip to Kui Buri National Park, where guests can spot elephants, banteng, and more wild animals. The day is capped with a hearty picnic in the midst of the forest. Splendid. For Wine Safari rates and more information Tel: 081 701 8874 (or 081 904 3888) email: reservation@huahinhills.com

Anniversary fun at Rest Detail REST Detail Hua Hin will celebrate its fifth anniversary on Nov 25 with a big party open to all. Visit the property and you’ll find a special dinner, live entertainment, and lucky draw prizes. Only B755 per person. 6.55pm-10.55pm. Tel: 03 254 7733 www.restdetailhotel.com

Moroccan spa package at Villa Maroc Resort Golfers set their sights on Dubai TALENTED golfers Steve Brighton, Ampika Sangwichai, and Alan Thomas have been invited to participate in the Golf Citizen Open Series Thailand Grand Final after winning the top three places in the second qualifying round. The top three places of the final, which will be held at Banyan Golf Club on Dec 14, will win a VIP trip to play alongside European tour pros in the 25th Anniversary Omega Dubai Desert Classic Pro Am. www.golfcitizen.com

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UNTIL Nov 30, Sherazade Hammam & Spa at Villa Maroc Resort is offering a ‘Moroccan Pampering’ spa package priced B3,500 for two. The 90-minute treatment features Moroccan bathing, Moroccan Black Soap scrub, and a choice of “Rejuvenate Body Massage” or “Thai Massage.” Tel: 032 630 771 email: spa@ villamarocresort.com

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H uaH i n

W here to sleep

Hua Hin Where to sleep The Cape Nidhra Hotel, Hua Hin ■ Located in the heart of Hua Hin right next to the beach, this luxury hotel combines comfort and convenience for the perfect escape. Each suite is well-furnished in stylish décor and each has its own private swimming pool. General facilities include a fitness center, a swimming pool, steam rooms, spa, library, and meeting functions. Rocks Restaurant serves up a wide range of international dishes and local favourites, while the beachside bar, and the cigar and whisky bar, mix up some excellent cocktails.

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa ■ This imposing resort in the centre of Hua Hin is regarded as one of the best family hotels in the region. Accommodation features comfortable rooms and suites, providing guests with a living space that exhibits contemporary Thai design flair and good in-room amenities. There are also 11 Spa Suites available. The awardwinning White Lotus on the 17th floor of the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa offers sky-high dining at down to earth prices. 33 Naresdamri Road. Tel: 032 538 999

97/2 Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 516 600

Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin ■ Set within 13 hectares of landscaped gardens, the property dates back to 1923 and is one of Southeast Asia’s most renowned hotels. The luxurious colonial-era beachfront resort features 207 beautifully appointed guestrooms and suites, each one offering comfort and convenience. The Pool Villas include four Deluxe Spa Villas with queen sized twin bed, lounging area, bathroom with rain shower, and oversized Jacuzzi bathtub. Refined dining is available at Sala Thai, Hagi, the Railway Restaurant, and Palm Terrace. Guests can unwind in the Elephant Bar. 1 Damnernkasem Road, Hua Hin. Tel: 032 512 021-38

Evason Hua Hin and Six Senses Spa ■ This resort-spa is situated at the heart of 20 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens and faces the Gulf of Thailand. Pool villas and guest rooms are connected by a series of wooden walkways that meander between lush greenery. This is a retreat for those seeking time to relax and recharge. In The Restaurant guests can sip exotic cocktails, ice-cold beer or boutique wines while watching chefs cook and construct creative appetizers. The award-winning Earth Spa is one of the most visually striking in Thailand.

Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi ■ Inspired by Morocco’s distinctive architecture, Villa Maroc combines Thai beachside living and service with some of the most luxurious furnishings from the North African Kingdom, making it a unique addition to Southeast Asia’s accommodation scene. The resort is located in Pranburi approximately 30 kilometers south of Hua Hin town. You can tuck into European, Middle Eastern and Thai cuisine at Casablanca, enjoy cocktails and shisha pipes at the Sisha Bar, relax in bliss at Sherazade Hammam & Spa, and much more. 165/3 Moo 3 Paknampran, Pranburi, Tel: 032 630 771 email: rsvn@villamarocresort.com

Baan Bayan

■ This fine resort features one of Hua Hin’s finest examples of early 1900’s architectural style. The beachfront resort has been faithfully restored to its former glory by the family who once lived there. Guests staying at Baan Bayan can experience the glory of a bygone era in its colonial style structure, yet without sacrificing the modern day comforts and amenities. It has 21 rooms comprising of three suites, 10 sea view rooms and 16 rooms with views of the courtyard or tropical garden. 119 Petchkasem Road. Tel: 032 533 544

9/22 Moo 5 Paknampran Beach, Pranburi. Tel: 032 632 111 134

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H uaH i n

W here to eat

Hua Hin Where to eat Papa John’s Grill Restaurant & Beer Garden

La Paillotte

■ In business for over 13 years, this popular diner has established a large and loyal clientele of locals and returning holidaymakers. The secret to the restaurant’s success is the owner’s welcoming nature and an extensive menu of good honest well cooked food. Papa John’s is a spacious open-sided restaurant with a bar area ideal for pre-dinner drinks while you survey the excellent selection of dishes on the menu. Try the fillet, T-bone or rib-eye, each very reasonably priced. The ideal venue for European comfort food and a drink with friends.

■ This charming French restaurant is the ideal place to enjoy an evening of fine food in relaxed surroundings. The fresh and colourful décor brings to mind citrus-scented Mediterranean evenings, as do the excellent range of aperitifs, wines, beers and digestifs. Although the culinary roots of La Paillote’s cuisine are classically French, the kitchen team enhances a rich culinary tradition with contemporary touches. An a la carte menu and nine set menus are available. Open daily from 11am till late.

1/54 Soi Moobaan Khao Takiab, Nong Kae, Hua Hin Tel: 032 514 295

174/1 Naresdamri Road, 77110 Tel: 032 521025

Chom Talay

■ This delightful beachfront restaurant is a great spot for alfresco dining. Pushed up against the water’s edge it has an easy going charm, good food and drink. The menu features a wide selection of delicious seafood dishes. Of note is the stir fried mud crab with X.O. sauce. A piquant tom yam with fresh prawns, pineapple and the flesh of young coconut offers an interesting variation on a classic dish. Open from 11am till 10pm. Phetkasem Road, Hua Hin, (next to the airport). Tel: 032 547 253-4

White Lotus

■ The Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa’s signature Chinese restaurant serves up a wide range of authentic Szechuan and Cantonese dishes, including a signature Roast Peking Duck with pancakes, which is a must try. Factor in the restaurant’s elegant contemporary design and breathtaking views of the ocean and mountains, and it’s no surprise that it never fails to impress first time visitors. Dinner is served Tues-Sun 6pm-10.30pm; Dim Sum Lunch on Sat, Sun and Public Holidays from 11.30am-2.30pm. Tel: 032 538 999 Email: fb.huahin@hilton.com

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Mcfarland House

■ FAMOUS for its history, McFarland House is a two-storey open-sided traditional Thai house set on the beachfront. This casual bar and dining pavilion offers snacks, Thai and Western cuisines served tapas-style and element set menus. A wide range of fresh fruit juices, cocktails and wines by the glass are available. The relaxed and chilled-out atmosphere is complemented by background lounge music. McFarland House is also an excellent choice for Sunday Brunch. 91 Hua Hin, Khao Takiap Road Tel: 03 252 1234 www.huahin.regency.hyatt.com

The Veranda Grill ■ The Veranda Grill offers both a relaxed outdoor atmosphere on the beachfront, as well as an indoor dining experience, featuring exceptional views across the Gulf of Thailand. The setting is perfect for sampling some of the sea’s freshest delights. You can choose from a wide selection of authentic Thai cuisine along with continental dishes, all of which are carefully prepared to the chef ’s exacting standards. Veranda Lodge, Hua Hin Beach, 113 Soi Hua Hin 67, Petch Kasem Road, Prachuab 77110 Tel: 032 533678 email: huahin@verandalodge.com www.verandalodge.com

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Travel

Deals and Promo t i o n s GLOW Pratunam: Until Dec 31, the hotel’s

s ’ e t a M s rate

‘GLOWing Weekday’ promotion offers 20% discount on stays of two nights or more between Mon-Thurs. Rates start at B2,400 per night for a Deluxe Room. Rates for Deluxe Corner Room and GLOW Suite are also available. ☎ 02 257 3999 :glowbyzinc.com/pratunam

Hua Chang Heritage Hotel: Until Dec 31, the hotel’s ‘Family

amily f r o s d ? Frien hailand t T g n i t i vis w abou o n k m Let the e deals thes

Getaway’ package features one night’s accommodation in Suite adjoining Premier Deluxe room for two adults and three children (under 12), complimentary daily breakfast buffet, Wi-Fi access and more. B12,500. ☎ 02 217 0777 :huachangheritagehotel.com

GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai Resort: From now until Dec 20, the ‘Advance Purchase’ promotion offers 15% discount when booking 14 days in advance for a Superior Villa (starting at B4,165 per night); and 20% discount when you book 30 days in advance (starting at B3,920 per night). Also valid for Deluxe Villa and Beach Front Pool Villa. ☎ 087 808 3838 email: rsvn.kohyaoyai@glowbyzinc.com

Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok: The hotel is celebrating its 3rd anniversary with a deal. From Nov 29 – Jan 12, Single rooms are B3,333++ per room per night, and Double rooms are B3,633++ per room per night. The package includes daily buffet breakfast, in-room Wi-Fi, two birthday cupcakes (per stay), and a bottle of the hotel’s Best Brews (per person per stay). ☎ 02 309 3000 :starwoodhotels.com/fourpoints/index.html

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Regent Phuket Cape Panwa: Until Dec 22, a ‘Winter Bliss Offer’ features three special room rates: B8,888 per night for Pavilion, B12,888 per night for Regent Suite, and B20,888 per night for a Pool Villa. The deal includes daily breakfast for two, complimentary usage of iPad, Wi-Fi & Broadband, access to infinity edge pool, selected non-alcoholic mini-bar, and more. Receive 20% discount when booking 45 days in advance, and 15% discount when booking 30 days prior to the check-in date. ☎ 076 200 800 :regenthotels.com/en/Phuket/Exclusive-offers/Winter-Bliss-Offer

The Eugenia Hotel & Spa: The hotel’s ‘Exclusive Package’ offers a two-night stay starting at B11,044++ for two adults. The deal includes daily breakfast for two, a half day city tour, two-hour spa treatment for two and a high tea set for two. The rate applies to a minimum stay of two nights and is available through online booking only at www.theeugenia. com/offers.html.

Northgate Ratchayothin: Until the end of the year the hotel is offering a ‘Stay 2 Weekend Nights & Save 20%’ promotion on its Studio Rooms (between Fri-Sun). Rates start at B1,760 for two persons. ☎ 02 939 7949 :northgatebangkok.com

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COAST CO PATTAYA

Kok Chang • Wong Amat • Jomtien • Bang Saray • Sattahip • Rayong

Enjoy fine Italian cuisine and wine at Acqua Restaurant’s upcoming Collavini Dinner. Page 140.

News & Deals

The Eastern Seaboard’s hottest dining and hotel promotions Page 140

Boat show

Pattaya’s only marinafront lifestyle boat show returns next month Page 140

Bavarian fun A round-up of pics from Hilton Pattaya’s Oktoberfest By The Sea Page 142

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P a t t aya

News and Deal s

Ocean Marina Pattaya Boat Show PATTAYA’S only marina-front lifestyle boat show returns to Ocean Marina Yacht Club on Nov 22-24 bringing together boats, supercars, beachfront property, and all the products and services one could need to embark on a luxury yachting lifestyle. Great fun for landlubbers and sea dogs alike, the event also features a packed program of onshore and on-water activities and entertainment, including free sailing trials, free kayak trials, lucky draws, cocktail parties, Dragon Boat Races and a marina-side beer garden and festival with live band. Over 3,000 visitors are expected to attend. www.oceanmarinaboatshow.com

Italian tastes at Eastin Pattaya ITALIAN dishes take centre stage this month at Eastin Pattaya’s The Glass House, where you can enjoy the chef’s latest two signature creations, Classic beef lasagna cooked with thickened cream and cheddar cheese; and Roasted red snapper fillet served with organic vegetables, eggplant and capsicum sauce. B200 each. Tel: 038 427 120-9 www.eastinpattaya.com

Fireworks spectacular

Collavini wine dinner at Acqua OENOPHILES and foodies should make a beeline for Acqua Restaurant, Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya, on Nov 19. Chef Alberto Bruni will use the finest imported ingredients to cook up a five-course menu specially created to pair with wines from the house of Collavini from Corno Di Rosazzo, Collio Del Friuli Region of Northeast Italy. B2,300 per person. Tel: 038 301 234 Ext. 4266 www.centarahotelsresorts.com/CMBR/

Loy Krathong at Kantary Bay A MEMORABLE Loy Krathong is guaranteed at the delightful Kantary Bay Rayong, which will mark the ‘Festival of Light’ with an open air buffet dinner and Thai classical dances. B750 per person (half price for kids under 12). Tel: 038 804 844 www.kantarycollection.com

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THE Pattaya International Fireworks Festival will elicit plenty of oohs and aahs when it lights up the city skies from Nov 29-30. Especially for the festival, the Hilton Pattaya Hotel is offering a series of wining and dining promotions at its panoramic venues, Edge, Drift, Shore, and HORIZON. Highlights include the ‘Explosive Evening at Edge,’ which features a seafood buffet dinner at B1,800 per person (add B1,150 per person for an extensive wine buffet); ‘Sizzling Seats at Drift,’ which offers free-flow wine, beer, pouring spirits and soft drinks at B1,450 per person; and ‘Explosive High Flyer at HORIZON,’ which features a set menu for guests arriving before 8pm for B2,500 per person (B1,850 per person after 8pm inclusive of free-flow drinks). Advance booking is essential. Tel: 038 253 000 Email: pattaya.info@hilton.com

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News and Deal s

Oktoberfest By The Sea HILTON Pattaya, in partnership with Paulaner, celebrated ‘Oktoberfest By The Sea’ for the second year in a row with an evening of authentic German cuisine, enticing cool beers, and traditional German music by the ever-popular German/Austrian troupe ‘Anton & The Funny Guys.’ The event, held at the Seaboard Ballroom, was opened by Khun Chanyut Hengtrakool, Secretary to the Minister of Education, and Mr. Markus Hesse, Assistant Food & Beverage Manager, Hilton Pattaya, with a traditional ‘Beer keg hammering’ followed by a night filled with celebration, together with games and competitions on stage.

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P at t aya Promotion Hilto n Pat t ay a

Review

Horizon Restaurant & Bar

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Hilton Pattaya’s rooftop hangout oozes class and style aplenty

PATTAYA’S nightlife isn’t all about Walking Street and bars steeped in a red glow. Over the past few years the city has been rapidly moving up-market and, alongside the usual vest-wearing thrill seekers, now caters for the needs of highend visitors who prefer their evenings to have a touch of class. Need proof? Simply head straight for the Hilton Pattaya, where rooftop bar Horizon offers uninterrupted, panoramic views of the city as well as an extensive menu of gourmet cuisine and innovative cocktails, all served in stylish and tasteful surroundings. Spread over 1,390 square meters of indoor and outdoor space, Horizon comprises three private dining rooms with floor-to-ceiling glass panels, and the open-air Infinity Bar and Stargazer Lounge, where guests can literally spy the stars through a circular opening in the overhanging roof.

Designed by the world-class, Bangkok-based architecture and interior design firm DWP, Horizon looks simply stunning, oozing up-market appeal thanks to its sleek, clean lines, subdued lighting, and muted colour scheme of black, grey and blue ‒ shades of the night brought to life with the occasional neon glow. “Pattaya is already well-known for its wide selection of dining options so we sought to differentiate our offerings at Hilton Pattaya by providing a ‘modern twist’ to the food and drinks served,” says the hotel’s GM, Rudolf Tröstler. “We wanted Horizon to be at the top of every visitor’s ‘To Do List’ when they visit Pattaya.” Looking at the food and drinks on offer it’s fair to say that Hilton Pattaya has succeeded. Executive Sous Chef Shaun Venter’s menu has an emphasis on choice cuts, globally inspired flavours and fused influences. His recipes, original

Open daily (Infinity bar 5pm-1am; Restaurant 6pm.11.30pm)

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and authentic dishes cooked with contemporary techniques and flair, are culinary works of art which delight all of the senses ‒ there’s really nothing else like it in Pattaya. There are many unique drinks to enjoy too, including, among them, eight signature cocktails (Sea Breeze, Siam Sunray, Ginger vs Vodka, A Tribute To Yellow, Berry Fizz, Cederberg, and Pattaya Sling) which can be sampled in one go thanks to the ‘Horizon 8 Shot Tower,’ a steel tree presenting a serving of each signature concoction ‒ a steal at just B1,100. (Daily from 5pm-7pm signature cocktails and selected beers are also twofor-one). Factor in DJs spinning atmospheric beats, well-trained staff providing swift and efficient service, and a fashionforward clientele, and Horizon has all the ingredients for a great night out.

☎ 03 825 3000 :pattaya.hilton.com

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P at t aya Promotion New Re so r t

Review

Grand Luxury for Pattaya

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Centara Grand opens new five-star hotel in the exclusive Phratamnak Hill district

THE brand new Centara Grand Phratamnak Resort Pattaya is now open for business offering luxury accommodation only a few steps from the untouched beautiful Cozy Beach and the Royal Residence. Designed to an 'underwater world' concept, the elegant resort has the feel of a luxury, private club, and features 165 guest rooms and suites, each boasting a private balcony and decked out with top quality furnishings and fittings, including the finest cotton sheets, Jim Thompson pillowcases, and Harnn bathroom amenities. Family residences include a large lounge, separate bedroom and a children's room that can sleep two kids easily, and includes a complete wrap-around balcony

with sun-beds and dining table. Head to the rooftop and, next to a large swimming pool, you'll find 'Ruffino,' a branded Italian restaurant which offers gourmet takes on traditional dishes and boasts stunning views across Pattaya Bay. Other highlights at the hotel include the all-day-dining restaurant Oceana, and French bakery “Espresso,” which serves delicious treats alongside the world-famous 'Illy' coffee. The interior and exterior of the building is clad in imported Italian marble and all furniture in the hotel is imported, including a wide range of items from the renowned furniture maker 'Fendi Casa,' whose elegant tables, chairs and other decorative pieces add visual flair to the hotel's lobby, guest rooms,

Phratamnak Soi 5, Pattaya

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and main dining room – the latter of which also wows guests with a stunning aquarium backdrop: a 'predator tank' swimming with black tip sharks, stingrays, groupers, and other kings of the sea. Extending the underwater feeling at the hotel is another aquarium in the hotel's lobby, this one themed as a coral reef teeming with all kinds of exotic species, including angel fish, butterfly fish, and other friendly creatures of the deep. Light spills from this tank adding a serene, sub-marine ambience to the hotel's ground floor areas. As one of the most exclusive hotels to be built in Pattaya, the Centara Grand Phratamnak Resort is intimate, luxurious and great place to get away from stresses and strains of daily life.

☎ 03 830 6337 :centarahotelsresorts.com

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P at t aya Promotion Holid ay I n n Pat t ay a

Review

Havana Bar & Terrazzo Restaurant

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Cuban style, Italian flavour ‒ two great reasons to visit Holiday Inn Pattaya’s beachside bar and restaurant

THIN crust pizzas, innovative cocktails, and two very different atmospheres await at Holiday Inn Pattaya’s Havana Bar & Terrazzo Restaurant. Located beachside at the front of the hotel, Terrazzo Restaurant lives up to its name by offering an alfresco poolside terrace where diners can enjoy all kinds of Italian treats plus more than 20 pipinghot pizzas fresh from a pizza oven. Behind the restaurant, meanwhile, in a striking open-plan room fronted by floor-to-ceiling windows, Havana Bar channels the retro spirit of Cuba thanks to a design scheme that blends classic furniture, exposed brick walls, and a hodge-podge of vintage ornaments. Adding plenty of party flavour every Mon-Sat is the House Band, ‘Power Jam,’

which plays a wide range of international hits; while out at Terrazzo, acoustic guitarist Adam performs soulful tunes every Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun night from 6pm-10.30pm. The same extensive food menu is available at both venues, including highlights such as Tiger prawn salad (B380), Chicken BLT burger (B350), and Salmone affumicato con panna (B400). Want to share some food with friends? Wrap your mouth around the Havana Platter Uno (B720), a hearty serving of five appetizers which includes Vietnamese fresh spring rolls, chicken satay, sun-dried beef, prawn cakes and deep-fried spicy pork fritters. The Nacho chips (B295), topped with chilli sauce

Havana Bar and Terrazzo, Holiday Inn Pattaya, 463/68 Sai 1 Rd. (Beach Rd.), Nongprue Banglamung

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and melted cheddar cheese and served with tomato salsa and guacamole; and Tom yum goong pizza (B395), are also great options for sharing. For desserts, the Rustic apple tart (B200), topped with vanilla ice-cream and vanilla anglaise, is a must try. And cocktail fans shouldn’t miss the Havana signature mojito (B260) ‒ a boozy treat that’s bound to give you the confidence to get up and boogie when Power Jam takes to the stage (just make sure you don’t eat too much!). This month you may want to visit the restaurant for an early dinner ‒ every day from 4pm-6pm all traditional and signature pizzas are half price. Now that’s a bargain. ☎ 038 725 555 :holidayinn.com/pattaya

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