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FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT IN BANGKOK
March 2012 06 BIGCHILLI CAMPAIGN No more plonk at high prices! 08 INSIGHT News, letters, reporters’ notebook, and more 30 JOKES Laughter is the world’s best medicine. We’ve got buckets of the stuff here 32 SCHOOL REPORT A round up of news from Bangkok’s best international schools 41 GOURMET A round up of all the best restaurant deals and gourmet events in Bangkok 66 BEI OTTO IN FOCUS After 30 years in business here, Otto Duffner knows a thing or two about operating a successful eatery 74 FEATURE: THE DARK SIDE OF BANGKOK’S CHINATOWN Maxmilian Wechsler reveals Chinatown’s real hidden secrets 79 TIME OFF Exhibitions, performance, sport, networking – we’ve got next month’s best events all wrapped up 91 SOCIAL Last month’s best events in pictures 114 MOTORING We test drive BMW’s 730Li – its most luxury car yet 119 TRAVEL Deals and news from Thailand’s hottest destinations
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No more plonk at high prices, please. Let’s have decent wine we can afford WINE is a massive business in Thailand, and its growth is unstoppable. After being initially surprised by its huge popularity, local entrepreneurs are now cashing in on the country’s unquenchable taste for wine in an explosion of venues dedicated to all shades and styles of fermented grape juice. As recently as 15 years ago, it rarely featured at major social occasions, particularly in the major hotels, and only the best restaurants maintained stocks of wine that were invariably either wholly indifferent or horrendously expensive. It’s true that wine bars had already begun to appear on the Bangkok entertainment circuit, but they were more of a curiosity than a serious alternative to the pubs and bars. Tastings were few and far between, and so-called experts did little more than pompously regurgitate what they had just read in a foreign wine magazine. Those who thought it terribly smart to drink wine would insist on red mostly because its colour stood out in a crowd, quite unlike white wine, which could have been water. Putting a figure on the volume of wine sold in Thailand today is notoriously difficult. It’s an open secret that there are two sources of wine: one that’s duty-paid, and another that’s not. Each presents its own set of challenges. Wine attracts a bewildering host of taxes which make it so expensive that only the wealthiest sections of society can afford to indulge. For reasons that are unfathomable to most drinkers, these taxes vary according to the wine’s country of origin, despite the existence of free trade agreements that are supposed to minimize such duties. And for the record, locally produced wine does not escape the taxman’s clutches. The government’s justification for such high duties is equally unfathomable. Apart from raising funds, one of the most common explanations is the need to safeguard the public’s health. This, of course, is patently ridiculous given the widespread availability – especially upcountry – of cheap and nasty liquors that are doing untold damage to the insides of low income drinkers. Wine, by comparison, is a benign and thoroughly natural drink. Meanwhile, visitors to Thailand are invariably shocked by the high cost of wine when compared to prices back home. Depending on the venue, a glass of what can only be described as an extremely modest wine costs anything between 200 and 400 baht a glass. For better vintages, the cost can be as high as 800 baht, or more. A bottle is rarely under 1,000 baht, and there are plenty of restaurants that charge over 20,000 baht for what they consider a really top product.
Frankly, this kind of pricing makes about as much sense as the government’s taxation policies on wine. While it is certainly true that those punitive taxes ensure that it is expensive to the consumer, it is also valid to suggest that restaurants and hotels shoulder some of the blame for these high prices because of inflated profit expectations. As with other foodstuffs, F&B managers and sommeliers are instructed as a matter of course to multiply what they pay for the wine by three or four to arrive at the price their customers will be charged. So, a bottle of very ordinary wine bought by a restaurant or hotel for 400 baht is usually sold on to the customer for 1,600 baht, with tax and service charged added on the final bill. Using this system, a glass of wine (assuming that there are five or six glasses per bottle) is priced at 350 baht, or more. That’s roughly US$10. In the past, restaurants may have been able to fob off cheap wine to naïve drinkers, but no longer. Customers are getting smart and are increasingly likely to either send back inferior wines or simply not order bottles they know to be stupidly overpriced. Not all restaurants have adopted the x 4 mark-up policy. Many keep their customers happy with much lower profit margins and, as result, sell more wine, either by the glass or by the bottle. It’s now time for others, particularly hotels that pride themselves on the quality of their cuisine, to follow suit. The days of serving cheap, tasteless plonk and charging sky-high prices are over. There is yet another facet to this story, and it involves the seemingly vast volumes of wine that apparently slips through the official ‘net.’ When excessive taxes are slapped on a product, smugglers invariably appear on the scene. And in Thailand, just every wine lover “knows someone” who can get hold of the stuff at a much reduced price. Reports suggest that the practice is so rampant that some genuine importers who pay their full tax quota are discovering that ‘agents’ with connections can actually undercut them on price on their own products. Although consumers normally benefit from such underhand tactics in the form of lower prices, it is clearly unfair on bona fide wine importers. The solution to all these woes, of course, is for the government to review its tax-on-wine policies. Lower duties would make wine more affordable to locals and tourists. They might even curtail the smugglers’ activities.
T A E N WI ICE? R P Y N A
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TheBigChilli
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Publisher Colin Hastings colin1066@hotmail.com MANAGING Editor Adam Purcell adambigchilli@gmail.com Editor Nina Hastings ninabigchilli@gmail.com Associate Editor Narumol Trachoo aombigchilli@gmail.com Sales & Marketing Manager Rojjana Rungrattwatchai sendtorose@gmail.com Account Executive Thana Pongsaskulchoti thanabigchilli@gmail.com Accounting Manager Saranya Choeyjanya fatcatbigchilli@gmail.com Art & Production Arthawit Pundrikapa, Jaran Lakawat Photography Mini Bike Gang and WJ Contributing Writers Anette Pollner, DJ Tara, Johanna DeKoning, Maxmilian Wechsler, Paul Hewitt
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We are now on Twitter. Find out what’s happening around town, which events to attend, parties to be seen at, and read all the juicy gossip! Follow us at ‘TheBigChilliMag’ No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from The BigChilli Co., Ltd. The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily the views of the publishers. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the publisher, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. The editor reserves the right to accept, reject or amend any submitted artwork, photographs, illustrations and manuscripts. The BigChilli welcomes unsolicited contributions but assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of such materials damaged or lost in transit.
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INSIGHT INBOX
letters It’s your
AIR RAGE: ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE
LET OF TTER MON HE TH
■ I READ your article titled “Air Rage? Blame the aircraft designers” (BigChilli 02/12) and think it’s a little off-the-mark, or at least misses one big piece of the puzzle. Yes, seats are cramped, and there’s no argument that the seat “pitch” (or what’s known as leg-room) has dropped, but I don’t think this is the direct fault of airlines (Thai, AirAsia, etc), aircraft manufacturers (Boeing, Airbus, etc), or seat suppliers (Recarro, B/E Aerospace etc). Let’s not forget that on an aircraft it’s all about space - or real estate - and inside a cabin this space is fixed; a plane’s interior does not get any bigger or smaller, so each and every square centimeter must be accounted for. Most of the total cabin space is therefore allotted for seats – an airplane’s biggest source of income (by virtue of fares sold to occupy a seat). The remaining space is accounted for in either airline discretionary items such as galley and lavatories, or mandatory items like safety equipment and such. Keeping the sale-able space in mind, if seat space/leg room increases in this area, this then has a proportional decrease in the number of seats that can be installed. And this, in my opinion, is the crux of the issue: The fewer seats you have, the higher the fares must be to cover the costs. A classic example of this was seen when most airlines replaced their old Business Class seats, which had a recline range of about 150 degrees, to the more common true 180-flat bed seat. While the increased space was great for the passenger, the airlines had fewer business class seats to sell. This meant that if they wanted to make the same money as they did before the seat change, they would have to increase their fares. It’s the same in Economy. In the early 2000s, American Airlines launched a “More Room Throughout Coach” program and removed a few rows of seats on each of its jets, increasing leg room for passengers. The fares that were charged though were simply not supported by the passenger base, and not to the level necessary to offset the foregone revenue of the removed seats. At present, the biggest concern for the flying public (as seen in various polls) is fares. And I think that airlines, aircraft manufacturers, and seat manufacturers, have responded to this consumer movement by trying to make flying cheaper. So, whose ‘fault’ is the shrinking leg room? I don’t think it’s a fault per se, rather it is a direct result of what the flying passengers in Economy have said they want or value-- and so far, that’s been rock--bottom fares, not leg room. Frequent flyer, Bangkok
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TROUBLES AT HOME
■ LAST month’s editorial (“When a restaurant opens next door to your home, it’s a life changing experience”) was another eye-opening read which shone light on how wealthy people in Thailand can basically do what they like. My husband and I are finding this out for ourselves at the moment after several shady characters have moved in to the house next door. My husband and our kids live in a nice residential area with my husband’s extended family. Living here used to be lovely – it was peaceful and quiet and my kids could safely play out on their bikes. Now this has all changed. Our new neighbours have regular visitors who not only speed down the road in their large cars but also park them on the side of the road and block the street. They also host regular late night parties with loud music which make it impossible for my family and I to sleep. A lot of residents have complained to the local police station but for some strange reason their complaints are hardly ever followed up. I’ve seen police officers check the premises once and then scurry away. There should be some law to protect residents that want to live in peace and harmony. My new neighbours are clearly someone important, or rich, but without the decency to respect others living in the community, as people they’re worthless. It’s just a shame no one can stand up to them to tell them that. Julie V, Bangkok
WRITE AND WIN! 1,000 baht Food by Phone voucher could be yours! Have you seen or heard something interesting/strange/weird in Bangkok that you just have to share? Have an opinion/rant/rave that you want to see in print? Write to us and you could win a 1,000 baht voucher from food delivery service Food by Phone! To win, simply write what we reckon to be the best letter of the month, and we’ll send you a voucher. Write to us at: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com Deadline for April issue is March 21. For more info about Food by Phone and its partner restaurants see: www.foodbyphone.com
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INSIGHT NEWS
Stand by for the Rotarians – all 38,000 of them!
Thailand gets mighty crowded as the biggest-ever international event and money-spinner comes to town ■ THAILAND is set to host the biggest convention in the country’s history this May when more than 38,000 delegates from around the globe converge on Bangkok for the four-day Rotary International Convention. The venue for this huge event, which is expected to generate a jaw-dropping 3,000 million baht for Thailand’s tourism industry, is the IMPACT Arena Exhibition and Convention Centre, Muang Thong Thani, north of Bangkok. After a slump in arrivals last year due to the floods, hotels in Bangkok and upcountry destinations to be visited by delegates on post-convention tours are looking forward to a bumper period. Many are likely to be fully booked. Meanwhile, roads to and from IMPACT are also expected to be heavily congested. Putting together a convention of this size has required herculean efforts by co-hosts, the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (TCEB), which is providing some 270 million baht in financial support to subsidize some of the convention activities, and local Rotary clubs. Assistance has also come from a number of government departments as well as the Tourism Authority of Thailand and local Rotary clubs.
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Most of the domestic travel arrangements are being provided by three companies: SEA Tours, World Travel Service and Pacific World. These include hundreds of buses to transport delegates to and from IMPACT convention centre. With such a huge number of delegates flying to Bangkok for the event, Suvannabhumi airport will be especially busy during the first weeks of May. Airlines are similarly expected to be heavily booked at that time. Local Rotary clubs are currently working with the Immigration Department to set up special lines at the airport for visiting Rotarians. Teams of at least 70 volunteers will work around-theclock to ensure a hassle-free introduction to Thailand. Rotary International has worked closely with the almost 400 Rotary clubs in Thailand to offer visitors a comprehensive programme of events, ranging from keynote speeches by Muhammad Yunus, Nobel Prize winner of 2006, and Hugh Evans, CEO of the Global Poverty Project, to dinner cruises, cooking demonstrations and an opera ‘A Boy and a Tiger’ by Bruce Gaston. In addition, a Peace Forum will be held one-to-two days prior to the main event. Rotary is a global humanitarian organization with more than 1.2 million members in 34,000 Rotary clubs in over 200 countries and geographical areas. They comprise men and women with a shared commitment to make the world a better place through humanitarian service. Rotary’s top priority is the global eradication of polio. Since 1985, Rotary club members worldwide have contributed more than US$1 billion and countless volunteer hours to the effort. Continued on page 12...
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INSIGHT NEWS Continued from page 10
Accommodation
Rotary delegates are being offered a choice of almost 50 hotels in Bangkok, including many of the city’s top properties. Rates featured below vary within a hotel according to room quality and are inclusive of VAT and service charge. They also include full American breakfast. • Aloft • Amari Atrium • Asia Hotel • Baiyoke Suite • Lotus Sukhumvit • Banyan Tree Bangkok • Centara Lard Prao • Centara Central World • Chaophya Park • Chatrium • Conrad • Courtyard • Crowne Plaza • Dusit Thani • Four Seasons • Grand Hyatt Erawan • Grand Mercure Park Ave • Grand Millennium • Holiday Inn • Imperial Queen’s Park • InterContinental • Landmark • Le Meridien • Le Bua at State Tower • Mandarin Oriental • Montien • Montien Riverside • Narai • Novotel Impact • Pathumwan Princess • Pullman • Rama Garden • Ramada Encore • Ramada Plaza Menam • Renaissance • Shangri-La • Siam City • Sofitel Silom • Sukhothai • Swissotel Le Concorde • Swissotel Nai Lert Park • Tai Pan • Twin Towers • Vie Hotel • Windsor Suites
4,500 – 4,800 2,600 – 3,600 2,120 2,400 3,699 6,500 – 8,500 4,200 5,800 – 7,800 2,700 3,000 – 4,500 6,500 – 8,600 3,800 6,200 5,000 – 6,500 8,225 – 10,900 8,100 – 10,800 2,500 5,300 – 6,600 5,500 3,900 – 8,400 6,400 – 7,800 4,150 – 5,800 6,500 5,000 – 6,200 10,500 2,900 2,700 2,600 4,300 4,200 3,766 – 4,120 3,400 2,300 3,900 5,500 7,600 – 9,100 4,200 – 5,800 5,300 – 6,850 7,650 – 9,000 4,500 – 5,500 4,000 – 5,500 2,754 1,990 4,000 – 5,000 2,900
■ THE credibility of TripAdvisor, the influential international travel advisory, was undermined recently when a major hotel chain in Thailand asked a BigChilli writer to post positive reviews on its site in exchange for free accommodation at one of its resort properties. A senior hotel PR executive informed BigChilli staff that the company had suspended advertising in the local media. However, it would be prepared to give writers complimentary room nights if they wrote an article with “a positive slant” and sent it to TripAdvisor. The BigChilli editors immediately rejected the offer. “We were astonished by such a brazen attempt to get us to give a false review,” explained the magazine writer. “We would never consider this.” Several days later, the same PR executive contacted us again, asking if we would write a review – before we had even visited the property – based on some photos they were sending over. Naturally, we refused this offer as well. Incredibly, shortly afterwards we received a press release from the hotel announcing that one of its properties had been voted amongst the top 25 resorts on TripAdvisor. “It really brings into question the credibility of the reviews you read on the site,” said our writer. “Everyone knows the system is open to abuse, but for a big hotel chain to do this is shocking.”
Obituaries: Transportation
Rates for a one-way trip (max three people) from the airport to central Bangkok range from 1,500 baht in a Toyota Camry or similar to 2,100 baht in a Mercedes Eclass car and 1,600 baht for a minivan (max 6 people).
Tours
To Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Hua Hin, Pattaya, Koh Samui, Phuket, Sukhothai and Esarn. Photographs by Alyce Henson @ Rotary International
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Hotel offers free room nights in exchange for good review on TripAdvisor
■ DURING the past month or so, we’ve had to say a final farewell to some of Thailand’s most colorful and popular characters. They include: Liam O’Keeffe Ayudhkij, founder and chairman of Property Care Service (PCS), who passed away peacefully on February 28. He was 67. Born in Dublin, Ireland, Liam spent 40 years in Thailand and became a Thai national. Under his direction, PCS grew from five staff to 23,000 it has today. Chalie Amatyakul, 69, flamboyant and much admired chef who made his name at the Oriental, which he joined in 1975, and later wrote the hotel’s popular Thai Cooking School Cookbook. Kamthorn ‘Kam’ Chaturachinda, formerly of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, New York, and later general manager of the Montien Hotel during the 1970-80s, who proved himself one of the most effective hoteliers during Thailand’s early days as a major tourist destination. Khun Malai Sakolviphak, a former Skal International (SI) Thailand President, whose long association with the travel organization earned the nickname ‘Mr. Skal.’ His last employer was Pacific Leisure in Bangkok. Judy Fitzgerald, poet, artist and wife of popular long-time Bangkok resident Roger. All will be sadly missed.
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INSIGHT NEWS
Diners ‘tricked’ into buying 400 baht bottle of water ■ RESTAURANTS are tricking diners into ordering bottles of water and charging them as much as 400 baht for a product that can be bought for 69 baht in SevenEleven, claims a source of the BigChilli. “Almost immediately after I sat down at the table, I was asked whether I’d like some water, to which I said yes,” recalls the diner at an upmarket restaurant in one of Sukhumvit’s top hotels. “I wasn’t shown a menu indicating the water I’d be served and the wait-
ress made no mention of the price,” he continued. “I knew that the hotel sold its own-label water, and was aware of its price – about 50 baht a small bottle. So for two people, I did a mental calculation that the cost would be about 120 baht. The diner was shocked, however, when the bill was presented at the end of the meal and the charge for water, when tax and service charge were added, came to roughly 400 baht.
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EVA to trek the Death Railway for charity ■ SIX members of Bangkok’s Expat Veterans Association (EVA) are preparing to embark on a 300km trek along the infamous Thailand – Burma ‘Death Railway’ to help raise funds for charity, and commemorate the 70th anniversary of the railway’s construction. The group will set off from Three Pagoda Pass on April 18 and will tackle the journey over seven and a half days, sleeping in hammocks and lugging most of their gear with them in 20kg rucksacks. The expedition, dubbed ‘The Long March,’ is no walk in the park. Sections
“I couldn’t believe my eyes,” he said. “The bottle was still on the table beside the one we occupied and took a closer look. It was a one-litre of Evian, which is imported from France, and not the hotel’s own water. “Naturally I was very shocked and angry, not just at the price but because of the way the restaurant staff had asked me about the water – and not mentioning either the cost of the product. “I felt it was all rather underhand, and that I had been tricked by some sharp sales practice. “I later checked the price of Evian in Seven-Eleven and although at 69 baht a large bottle it is considerably more expensive than other brands, the hotel’s mark-up of about 330 baht is very excessive. “In a country where people work for 300 baht a day and petrol costs 32 baht a litre, this is simply over the top. “In future, I will ask the brand and cost of water before I order in a restaurant.”
of the trek will see the group using machetes to hack their way through narrow jungle paths. Another section, where the original track is submerged in water due to the construction of the Vajiralongkorn Dam, will see them using canoes to navigate a lake. They will also face one-and-a-half days of mountain biking, both on and off-road – all of this in 45 degree heat and 90 - 100% humidity. Along their journey the group will stop at several old Prisoner of War camps and lay poppies in remembrance of the men who worked on the railway’s construction. If all goes to plan, the group will then arrive at Kanchanaburi War Cemetery for the ANZAC day services on the morning of April 25. Duncan Diaper, ex-Grenadier Guards and organizer of The Long March, says: “Not only are we doing this challenge for three great charities – The Returned Services League, The Royal British Legion, and Thai Veterans Hospital – but more importantly it is to remember the men of all nationalities who worked on the Thailand - Burma railway, because their strength and courage should never be forgotten.” Joining Duncan on The Long March are EVA members Peter Werby, Antony Bell, Dave Haddon, and Ian Bessant. One more space is currently available, so if you think you’ve got the stamina to take part, and you’d like to do your bit for charity, send your details to Duncan at thelongmarch01@gmail.com. If you’d like to learn more about the walk, sponsor a member, or donate clothing or equipment (the group is in need of good lightweight walking trousers), you will find all the details on www.the-long-march.com. Sponsors of the The Long March include DHL, Tesco Lotus, Spice Roads Cycle Tours, Apples Retreat Kanchanaburi, and Thailand Burma Railway Center.
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ROTID MAAAK!
MOVING ON UP
Rising above the floods
A HOUSING company has just unveiled its latest design for houses that beat the floods. It’s built on stilts. Weren’t they building totally sensible houses like that 100 years ago?
Ban car parks. That’ll reduce traffic congestion
OPINION is currently divided about the decision by the management of the BigChilli offices to convert a number of prime parking spaces in our building complex into storage space. Car owners here are constantly bemoaning the shortage of available spaces, especially during the morning rush and in the afternoon when parents of students at a nearby school use the parking lot to collect their kids. So, by taking some spaces out of commission, the daily challenge to find a vacant one in our office block will only intensify. Indeed, for some it will be hopeless. Others (mostly non car owners) suggest that central Bangkok already has too many car parks. If there were less, then fewer cars could enter this part of the city because they’d know instinctively that it’s pretty much impossible to find somewhere to leave their vehicle. And fewer cars mean less traffic, which in turn reduces congestion. Or so goes their logic. In fact, for some years it’s been suggested that permits for new building projects in central Bangkok should not include permission to build parking lots in the overall design, as their presence will merely bring more cars to the city and add to the traffic congestion. Cities in other countries already impose such restrictions on new office blocks. The counter argument in Bangkok is that our mass transit system is already heavily used; both the Skytrain and underground network are packed to bursting point at the beginning and end of the working day. Until genuine alternatives can be provided, we may well have to face up to endless searches for parking spaces and inhuman traffic jams.
ON THE BALL
Soccer’s lesson for business
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HE Thailand Premier League has gone from strength to strength in recent years, attracting big crowds to the grounds and even bigger audiences to the TV. Huge sponsorship deals and vast profits have meanwhile attracted the attention of serious businessmen and politicians. Today, the TPL looks more and more like the mega leagues in Europe and South America. Its growing appeal and popularity is definitely due to the influx of foreign players; they have helped to raise standards and give the league an international character. Soccer in Thailand is thriving, which, of course, is to be welcomed. At the same time, the league has shown the way forward, if this country really wants to be a world-beater, by unhesitatingly employing skilled foreign labor. It’s a lesson other industries would do well to imitate. 16
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TWO-FACED TANTRUMS
Outrageous! Critics who are outraged by local music videos
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TRIGGER HAPPY
Air guns are still a threat
A FOREIGN colleague who recently bought an air gun to scare off, but not hurt, packs of howling dogs that roam his Soi and make sleep impossible, has decided against using it. He reckons, not unreasonably, that if he’s spotted on the street aiming the gun at these dogs, he may well be reported to the police as some ‘deranged farang.’ In these security-sensitive days, they probably wouldn’t take a chance that his weapon was just a toy.
ATTENTION JUNKIES
‘Rehab’ is a badge of weakness, not honour
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ELEBRITIES who go through ‘rehab’ are increasingly portrayed in the media as someone to be admired. Successful recovery from addiction is worn like some badge of honour, setting that person apart from and even above the rest of us. Well, it shouldn’t. Rehab, be it from drugs or alcohol, is a refletion of flaws and weaknesses in that person’s character. Admiration is the last thing it should be.
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HERE’S more than a whiff of hypocrisy about the outrage now being expressed in certain quarters of Thai society about a locally produced music video that has become an Internet hit. The YouTube video by a group of R&B artists calling themselves “illslick” features naughty lyrics and scantily-dressed Thai dancers whose sexy routine leaves little to the imagination. Reaction to the video has been astonishing. Critics, including the former chairwoman of the Association for Promoting Warmth and Happiness in Families, have called on the government to address “the issue” while a psychiatrist believes music videos with provocative and sexual scenes are produced for those “with an attention-deficiency complex.” Others have even apparently suggested the video could result in debauchery and unwanted pregnancies. What two-faced nonsense. So, using their logic, it’s ok if Thai youngsters watch highly provocative MVDs featuring foreign singers and dancers, like those streamed endlessly on music channels on TV. But it’s not ok for them to watch Thais doing exactly the same thing. Err, please explain. These critics must live with their heads buried in the sand. In Bangkok, there are countless nightclubs, bars and pubs designed exclusively for Thai males that showcase local girls in skimpy bikinis, or less, gyrating to music with heavy sexual overtones. We’re not even talking about massage parlours. Sex is a huge industry in Thailand, and these critics know it very well. What really irks them – and what they apparently don’t wish to acknowledge – is that it exists here at all. And most certainly they don’t want it to be exposed to a foreign audience.
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INSIGHT SHOPPING
Talking
Shop Hot products and stores demanding your attention
ZEN BACK IN BUSINESS
SET ablaze at the end of the red shirt protests in May 2010, Zen Megastore at CentralWorld was rendered a burnt-out black husk. But after 20 months of careful renovations, the seven-floor megashopping wonder is now well and truly back in business. As before, each floor focuses on a different department, with categories including luxury products, elegant accessories, women’s fashion, menswear, funky and edgy products, gifts and toys, and household products. Brand exclusives include alldressedup, Galliano, Just Cavalli, M Missoni, Love Moschino, Vivienne Westwood MAN and Pierre Balmain. CentralWorld (near Chidlom BTS). For more info: www.zen.co.th
TIME IS PLASTIC
THE Toy Watch brand’s timing couldn’t be better: just when durable, no-nonsense watches are all the rage it has launched a new collection called ‘Toy2Fly’ which, under the slogan ‘Time is Plastic,’ features clean, modern designs inspired by aviation. Made from a unique polycarbonate material, the watch has a large dial with a ‘T’ at the three marker and an ‘N’ at nine, as well as an inner subdial to track seconds. The straps are either stitched grosgrain textured silicon rubber or stitched silk. For women the watch is available in blue, red, purple, black and white with Swarovski’s rings, while gents can choose from black, white, red, yellow, blue and grey. The watches are B9,200 each, and available at all leading department stores. Tel: 088 022 7139 http://toywatchthailand.com
HERMÈS’ SUMMER LOOK
FOR a casual yet elegant look this hot season we recommend you check out Hermès Spring/Summer 2012 Collection. The women’s line, designed by Christophe Lemaire, takes inspiration from outfit trends from both the ’20s and the ’80s, and even hints at a touch of Moroccan and Mediterranean styles. Summer shades of white, beige, orange, cobalt blue and jade green give each outfit a striking, clean look, that’s perfect for any occasion. Taking care of the men’s line is designer Veronique
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FAT-FREE FRYING
WANT to indulge in some fried food but worried what it will do to your waistline? Then check out Philips’ new AirFryer. With its patented Rapid Air Technology, this nifty cooking machine combines fast-circulating hot air with a grill element meaning you can fry food without the need for oil. With a maximum temperature of 200C, the oven comes with a food separator accessory which allows simultaneous frying of many ingredients without mixing flavours. And no matter how pungent the ingredients, an Integrated Air Filter prevents unwanted smells filling your kitchen. The AirFryer’s removable parts (dishwasher safe) and non-stick surface means cleaning after cooking is a breeze. The AirFryer sells for B7,990 and comes with two recipe books containing 40 different dishes. Available now at major department stores and leading electrical stores. For more info, visit www.philips.co.th
COOKING WITH JUST ONE TOUCH
HÄFELE Thailand’s new ‘Touchscreen Series Oven (HG96T)’ is a great choice for wannabe cooks – especially those living in condos with limited space. The oven’s compact size means it’s good for almost any kitchen, and its 65 litre capacity means you can cater for a whole house full of people (depending on their appetites, of course). The oven won’t tell you how to cook, but with its touchscreen interface it does make cooking simple. And its Hydrolytic cleaning system is a great function for anyone who detests donning rubber gloves and diving head first into an oven to scrub it with a scourer, which, come to think of it, is almost everyone. The oven sells for B36,400. For more info Tel: 02 741 7171 www.hafele.co.th
Nichanian. His smart and dynamic outfits are created in basic colours like white, black, navy blue and dusty light green. Light fabrics like linen and cotton are used to help the wearer stay and look cool in the summer heat. Available now at Hermès flagship store at The Emporium (Ground fl.) Tel: 02 664 8353-4 or at Siam Paragon (Main fl.) Tel: 02 129 4800-1.
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INSIGHT NEWS
Publisher’s Blog
The great Sukhumvit condo riddle ■ WITH at least ten condos now under construction in the Phrakanong area of Bangkok, the question on everyone’s lips is, who’s going to buy all these new condominiums? Frankly, the maths don’t pan out. Assuming that most new buyers can afford only the minimum deposit allowed, and with the cost per square of condos in this area at around 95,000 baht per square metre, repayments on the outstanding loan are way, way higher than the going rental rates. In other words, renting makes far more financial sense than buying. What’s more, with so many units coming on to the market, the cost of renting is likely to go down. It’s kind of worrying too that the yet-to-be-built condo on the corner of Soi 50 has huge billboards offering “re-sale units,” which presumably means that one or more buyers have already had second thoughts about the project and want to get out.
Time for Gerd to relax ■ AFTER 22 years with Centara Hotels & Resorts, most recently as President, my old buddy Gerd Steeb has finally decided to retire. He’s off to the US for an extended stay before returning to Thailand and his beautiful house in Jomtien. I first got to know Gerd when he was general manager of the former Novotel Lotus in the Bukit Tima area of Singapore, and I was on one of my many assignments to the island. Back then, life was much slower and less demanding, so lunch with this extremely genial German was always a very long affair. Topics of conversation were virtually unchanged – Bangkok, where he’d enjoyed working in the 1960s, and soccer, which we both loved. Thus, it was a most pleasant surprise when he returned here in 1991, newly coiffed and looking ten years younger, to transform CHR into the country’s largest operator of hotels. And it’s been great knowing him ever since. Picture: Suthikiati Chirathivat (left), Chairman of Board of Directors, Central Plaza Hotel Public Company Limited, presents a Rolex Oyster wristwatch as a retirement gift to Gerd (right), as Pakaratee Narongrach (centre), Mr Steeb’s partner looks on.
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Frank, the inexhaustible joker ■ I WAS sad to learn of the recent death of Irish comedian Frank Carson after a battle with stomach cancer. He was 85. Famed for his catchphrases ‘It’s a cracker’ and ‘It’s the way I tell ’em,’ Frank was a regular visitor to Thailand, and helped to raise significant amounts of money for charity by playing golf and telling his jokes here. On two separate occasions, I was lucky enough to play golf in the same group as Frank. Although he had just got off the plane from an exhausting 13-hour flight from the UK, he showed no signs of jet lag when we teed off later that same day. Being a comedian was in his blood and for the entire round, he cracked jokes to anyone who’d listen, including the lady caddies who giggled endlessly, though they surely couldn’t have understood his thick Irish accent. Despite being in his late 70s, Frank continued to joke over dinner that same evening, throughout the various auctions and, of course, when it was time for him to take the stage. Where he got the energy from to keep going at his age is a complete wonder. Anyway, a final couple of jokes from Frank: “A man goes into Boots and says: ‘Have you got Viagra?’ ‘Do you have a prescription?’ asks the chemist. ‘No’, he replies, ‘But I’ve got a photograph of the wife...’” “An Irishman’s wife gave birth to twins. Her husband demanded to know who the other man was.” No one told ‘em like Frank.
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What happened to the cool season? ■ MY wish list for 2012 included a long, cool spell in Thailand to compensate for the wettest year on record in 2011 and the devastating floods that came in its wake. Well, it hasn’t happened, my wish hasn’t been granted. Next year, maybe? At least I was able to experience some really cold weather during a visit to the UK early February, when the temperature dropped below zero on my arrival and stayed that way, and worse, for the duration of my stay. Frankly, the snow and ice didn’t bother one bit, mostly because I knew I’d soon be back in humid Bangkok. And with April rapidly approaching, it’s going to get hotter. So hot or cold? Which is preferable? Right now, I’d say cold. But back in the UK, I’d have said hot. You can’t win.
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With Rotary coming, let there be peace ■ WITH 38,000 Rotarians from all parts of the world coming here in May for their International Convention, Thailand has a wonderful opportunity to showcase itself as a beautiful and peaceful nation. It’s the biggest single convention ever staged by Rotary International and the benefits to this country, both in terms of prestige and earnings, are enormous. Let’s therefore hope that whatever political differences that are smoldering below the surface in Thailand do not emerge during the visit of this peace-loving and charitable organization. Better still, let’s bury those differences forever.
3/5/12 11:54:45 AM
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REVIEW WINE CELLAR
WINE CELLAR: BRINGING WINE PRICES DOWN TO EARTH
Other wine bars we’ve been to have stocked good wines but haven’t stored them correctly, exposing them to too much heat and light. It’s always a pleasure, then, to discover a wine bar where style doesn’t rule over substance; where you can enjoy a good selection of carefully WINE culture is years, the quality of each selected wines (stored correctly), and where the booming in Bangkok wine bar varies greatly. staff have the knowledge and wine bars are Too often have we popping up faster than been into a trendy wine to find wines to suit any grapes on a vine. Most bar where we’ve asked a budget and taste. One such bar is hip areas of the city waiter or waitress to tell Wine Cellar in the S31 now have a wine bar of us more about a wine some description serving and they’ve scurried off, Hotel on Sukhumvit 31. Owned and wines from all regions of bamboozled, to try and operated by Foodcom, the world. But, like the find someone who can quality of wines stored explain more about what Wine Cellar has been importing wines for the in a cellar for many it is we’re drinking. last 12 years and is a well established player in the ever growing Thai wine market. Wine Cellar specializes in “Old world” wines and has an exclusive selection, mostly from Italy but also from all other classic wine producing countries in Europe. On the shelves are top brand names like Quintarelli, Firriato, Dr. Loosen, and Marchesi di Barolo.
Experience old world wines for as little as B99 per glass
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What we really like about Wine Cellar is that it’s not pretentious or snooty at all, and its offerings will please experienced connoisseurs just as much as folks who simply want to enjoy a glass and relax for a while. The bar’s friendly atmosphere and accessible location on Sukhumvit make it a great place to hang out, and with wine starting at only B99 per glass, a visit here is affordable for everyone. Wine Cellar owner Reinhard Murer is an avid foodie who spends his free time in Bangkok searching for rare and interesting food products, so every time you visit Wine Cellar you’re bound to see something new and tempting in the display cabinet, which is always stocked with rare cheeses and cold cuts from France, Italy and Switzerland. Adding to the eats are a small selection of hot meals like Lasagna and a traditional Swiss Barley Soup. Wine Cellar offers daily promotions on wine and food so
Monthly tastings Wine Cellar’s monthly wine tastings are great for anyone who wants to learn more about wine and meet interesting people at the same time. Every month the tasting changes, focusing either on a different region or wine variety, with seasonal themes too. Tasting dates are posted on Wine Cellar’s website (www. winecellarbkk.com). Apply for a yearly membership and the tasting fee is half price. any day is good to visit. Promotions are advertised on posters at the shop and also on its website. Wine Cellar, Hotel S31, 545 Sukhumvit 31. Open daily 11am – 11pm. Tel: 02 662 1355 info@winecellarbkk.com www.winecellarbkk.com www.foodcomthailand. com
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INSIGHT BUSINESS
KNOW MY COMPANY:
Chicky Net Social Network By Marisa Charles
Online network helps expat women make new friends and get the most out of life in Thailand ■ FROM its modest start as a Facebook group for expat women in Phuket to its prominence as a national network with nearly 2,000 members, Chicky Net has always kept a strong focus on building community. The social networking site aims to make women’s lives in Thailand easy, safe, and most of all, fun. Now, with the expansion of the site to major cities including Bangkok, connections, advice, and potential friends are all just a click away. It all began with a familiar scenario. “I just wanted more friends,” said Berthe Mandaat, the Chicky Net founder, who is originally from the Netherlands. She moved to Phuket and while she loved the culture, weather and lifestyle of island living, she found herself wondering where to find fun, interesting women to befriend. She started a small online group, organized a few events and watched the concept gather steam. “I think because my experience was representative of what so many other women were feeling, the idea of the site just grew naturally. I set up the basis of the network and the enthusiasm of the women who joined took it from there,” she explained. It is this member-driven nature that has been powering the network ever since. Encouraged by the popularity of the Phuket group, Mandaat decided to scale up to a national level. In 2009 she created the Chicky Net social networking website (www.chickynet.com) and opened up membership to women from around the country. “I knew that Phuket couldn’t be the only place where women were looking for a way to connect. Friendships and support networks are important no matter where you live,” she explained. Many ladies seem to agree. Chicky Net’s membership has more than doubled in the last six months. “The best thing about Chicky Net, for me, is that it addresses women’s interests and needs in a way that no other Thailandspecific site can do,” commented veteran “Chicky” Barbara A.K. Franklin, a Thailand-based consultant specializing in behavior change communication. She has been a member of Chicky Net since early 2010. The site offers a unique mix of social networking elements: member profiles, topical forums, event listings, classifieds, groups, photo pages, private messaging and blogs. Members can connect with other women around the country, but the site is mainly set up to encourage local connections, with subnetworks for Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phuket, and Hua Hin. By keeping things local, the site encourages members to go beyond online interactions. Women can meet up at a number of member-led events in their area include bowling, cocktail “meet and greets,” spa days, children playgroups, book exchanges, dinners and motorcycle rides. These events don’t just introduce Chicky
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Net members to new places and happenings, but also help women to find others with whom to share new experiences. “To be able to go to Chicky Net, find an event that I would like to join or create one and know that there would usually be at least one other lady out there that might want to join is great. I’m a very social person, so Chicky Net for me was a lifesaver,” said Coleen Beinert, an active Chicky Net member. Chicky Net opened its Bangkok sub-network in 2010, and it is now one of the fastest growing sub-networks on the Chicky Net site. The forum is abuzz with talk of international school recommendations, home decorating, English teacher placement agencies and the best places for coffee on Sukhumvit Road. The newest addition to the city’s groups is a Bangkok crafting group for women who knit, quilt, design and sew. A monthly meet up, to check out the hottest Bangkok bars and restaurants, helps Chickys to keep in touch. Chicky Net members have always been at the center of this network and members have played a major role in the success of the site. “I have a member working with me on the management of the site, some of our members connect us to advertisers, and most of our new member sign–ups come from word of mouth recommendations from current members,” Mandaat explained. So strong is her belief in the power of the network that she even trusts it to lead the way for the future of the site. “Where will the future of Chicky Net take us?” she mused. “I really don’t know. But the members will get us there.” Chicky Net: The Social Network for Women in Thailand can be accessed at www.chickynet.com. Memberships are free and for women only.
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INSIGHT NEWS
The rise and rise of Soi 11 ■ DESPITE being a major feeder road to and from Sukhumvit, Soi 11’s popularity continues to grow, turning it into one of Bangkok’s
busiest entertainment districts. At least nine new venues have opened here during the past year, and more are expected. Visitors seem oblivious to the heavy traffic flow and happily forgo the sidewalks – which are often jammed with either stalls or an increasing number of Volkswagen camper vans converted into makeshifts bars – to walk on the street itself. Though still boasting far fewer bars, pubs and restaurants than Soi Thonglor (Sukhumvit 55), this relatively small thoroughfare has become a major draw for both foreigners and locals. Its rise seems to have coincided with the decline of Patpong, once Bangkok’s premier playground, on the other side of the city.
Mélo
Tapas Cafe
Chez Papé
Bangkok’s first authentic Spanish tapas bar is also its best. Serving both traditional and modern tapas dishes, it’s a great place to take a group of friends and share numerous items off the menu. Open daily 11am - late Tel: 02 651 2947 www.tapasiarestaurants.com
Borrowing from France’s much-loved bistro concept, this restaurant serves classic French eats, fine wines, and boozy cocktails. Open: Mon-Sat, 4pm - 12am. Sun,11am - 11pm. Tel: 02 255 2492 www.chezpape.com
M (In ogh di ul an Ro Re om Sh sta al im ur BK ar an K S t) Ex ha Th rm pr e es a A ’ M lch s Di s (H él n o em er ala l) Sn ist ap Ch pe a r Ta rley pa B Ch s C row e af n G z Pa e al le pé r Su y k 11 Ho ste l
Internationally accomplished chef Tony Egger refines the street food concept and offers tasty creations served in an intimate urban atmosphere. Open: (Closed on Sun), Mon- Sat 3pm-12am Tel: 02 651 0137 www.letseat.at/melo
Cheap Charlie’s
SUKHUMVIT ROAD
NANA
Siam Commercial Bank
Senz Spa and Slon
Noodle stall Salons and tailors
Zanzibar
Grand President (Tower 3)
Khao Suk Restaurant Rosabieng Thai Restaurant
Raintree Spa and Salon
Old German Beer House
7/11 SUKHUMVIT SOI 11 7/11 Villa Market (Car park)
Am Plaza Bangkok Bank
Tailor Shops
Pawarchi Indian Restaurant
Travel Design Air
Kasikorn Bank
Grand Business Inn
Khana Khazana (Fine Indian Dining)
Kinnaree Coffee Shop
Shoe Shop
MRS Balbir’s
BUY BIGCHILLI HERE! A bargain at only 120 baht 28
Serving authentic Tex-Mex cuisine for over 18 years, Charley Browns is the place to go if you’re craving tortillas, tacos and corn chips. Open Tues – Sun 11.30-midnight; Mon 5pm-midnight. Tel: 02 651 2215 www.charleybrowns.asia
Car Park
Suk Spa
Charlie Brown’s Mexicana
© BigChilli Magazine
Ambassador Hotel and Climax nightclub
Kasikorn Uzuki Japanese Bank Cuisine
Snapper
Fish and chips, New Zealand style, are the highlight of this cozy restaurant. Other good choices include NZ lamb, grilled beef steak and salads. Tel: 082 6744655 Open: Mon-Fri, 5pm-12am, Sat-Sun 11am-12am : Motorbike Stand
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Zaks
Offering inexpensive wines and tasty eats in an upmarket atmosphere, this new wine bar by the same owners of Molly Malone’s and The Robin Hood is a great place to spend an evening with a group of friends. Open daily 6pm - 1am Tel: 02 651 0214
Mulligan’s Irish Pub
This sister of Mulligan’s in Pattaya and Singapore offers the same selection of international eats and a wide range of imported beers. Boasting numerous TVs, It’s a great venue for live sports. Oh, and the pool table’s free! Open: Daily, 6am-2am. Tel: 02 255 5025
Catalana Tapas and Wine
The Australian Pub & BBQ
Bed Supperclub
Imported Australian beers and a traditional Aussie Sunday Roast (395 baht,12 - 7pm) are the highlights here. It’s also a great venue for watching live sports. Tel: 02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com
Bed enjoys a reputation as being the city’s best nightclub. But not many people know it’s a great restaurant, too. Stretch out on one of its huge beds and you can dine on gourmet cuisine while watching artistic shows. Tel: 02 651 3537 www.bedsupperclub.com
Q Bar
Firehouse
wxyz bar
The Eclipse Group’s trendy tapas and wine bar offers a wide range of Spanish cuisine made using imported Mediterranean ingredients. Open: Daily, 11am-1am Tel: 02 651 0220 www.catalanatapasandwine.com
This hip New York-style lounge club has been one of Bangkok’s hottest night spots for 12 years. An extensive cocktail list is mixed by expert mixologists (the measures are huge), and the decks are regularly graced by big name international DJs. Open daily from 8pm-late Tel: 02 252 3274 www.qbarbangkok.com
Serving comfort food and delicious burgers in an unpretentious atmosphere, this is a great place to grab some eats either before or after your night out. Open: Tue-Sat, 11.30am-3am, Sun 11.30am-12am. (Closed on Mon) Tel: 02 651 3643 www.firehousethailand.com
Aloft Sukhumvit’s trendy bar serves a good selection of cocktails and hosts a different theme party every night. Open: Sun-Wed, 12pm-12am; Thurs-Sat, 12pm-2am (Closed on Mon and Tue) Tel: 02 207 7000 www.alofthotels.com/ bangkoksukhumvit11
Q Bar Le Fenix
Picture This (frames and art)
TMB
Citadines
Oskar Bistro
Bed Supperclub
Koreana Restaurant (Korean Food)
Oskar Bistro
This achingly hip nightspot packs in a young, trendy crowd every night of the week. Strong cocktails and Frenchinspired food are the highlights, as well as people watching. Open: Daily, 6pm-midnight Tel: 02 255 3377 www.oskar-bistro.com
Fraser Suites (serviced apartments)
Chilli Culture Thai Kitchen
All about massage
To Chic Hotel
Manchester United Bar
Mulligan’s
Firehouse
Marsh Mallow
SUKHUMVIT SOI 11
St Moritz (Coyote Club)
Coran Bangkok Spa
7/11
ALOFT
The Australian Pub & BBQ
Grand President and Cafe 11
Japanese Karaoke
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Federal Hotel and Coffee Shop
Ava Bar
Hillary Bar
Grace Foot Massage
Zaks
Baan Phuan (spa)
Limoncello
La Piola (Italian Restaurant)
Ananda Spa
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Jokes ENTERTAINMENT HUMOUR
Got a great joke? email us at: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com
BAR CRAWLER
HTS THOUG E H OF T MONTH
JOKE OF THE MONTH
A MAN climbs in through the window of a pub, crawls up the wall, climbs across the ceiling and crawls down the other side. He then orders a pint of cider, drinks it, and leaves the same way he came in. “That was odd,” says a customer at the bar. “Yes,” says the barman. “He usually has a Guinness.”
1. How do you anger a Pirate? Take the “P” out of him. 2. My New Year’s Resolution was to claim unemployment benefit. It’s not working. 3. I can’t believe they fired me from the clock factory after all the extra hours I put in. 4. David Cameron says he’ll put a cap on immigrants coming into the UK. That’s wrong. Immigrants should be allowed to wear what they like – Jimmy Carr. 5. I never thought I’d get a bank loan for my knitting business. But I found if I turned up wearing a balaclava… - Milton Jones.
LA LAW
MARRIAGE ISSUES
MY wife and I went to see a marriage counsellor. The woman looked at us and said: “If you’re both happy, we’ll start.” I said: “If we were both happy, we wouldn’t be here.”
CRAZY CLOTHES
A GUY walks into a psychiatrist’s office wearing shorts and Y-fronts made entirely out of cling film. The psychiatrist says: “Well, I can clearly see your nuts.”
TO find out which is the best law enforcement agency in the USA, the President sets a test for the CIA, the FBI and the LAPD. He releases a rabbit in a forest and challenges them to find it. The CIA goes in first and, after months of interviewing forest dwellers and conducting forensic tests, they deduce the rabbit never existed. The FBI go in next and burn down half the forest claiming the rabbit provoked them. The LAPD go in last and after half an hour drag out a badly beaten bear yelling: “Ok, ok, I’m a rabbit, I’m a rabbit…”
TAILOR TROUBLE
AFTER I found out my tailor had been sleeping with my wife, I screamed, “I don’t ever want to see you again!” He said, “Fine, suit yourself.”
ANIMAL ARGUMENT
THREE animals, a hawk, a lion and a skunk, are arguing about which is the most fearsome. The hawk says it’s the most fearsome as it’s the fastest. The lion says it’s the most fearsome because it’s the strongest. The skunk says it’s the most fearsome as it’s the worst smelling. Just then a bear came along and swallowed them all: hawk, lion, and stinker.
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INSIGHT SCHOOL REPORT
Berkeley comes top of class in Math competition KIS seeking entries for its art competition
KIS International School is seeking entries for its second Annual Charity Art Competition from students from all schools within Thailand. Artists are invited to first submit one image of a piece of two-dimensional ‘hanging art’ focusing on the theme of ‘Together.’ Deadline for submissions is April 4 (artcompetition@kis.ac.th). Semi-finalists will be notified via email on by no later than April 20. Pieces selected as semi-finalists and submitted will be sold for auction at nominal prices (with the artist having first option to buy back their work) and the proceeds will be donated to a KIS nominated charity. Entry winners must be present at the final awards presentation on April 27, 2012 at KIS International School. There will be three age-group categories for entry: 8-11 years of age, 12-15 years of age and 16-19 years of age. Cash prizes for each category of B5,000, B8,000 and B15,000 respectively will be awarded as well as a trophy and a certificate for each age category. For more info: http://www.kis.ac.th/art_competition
THREE Berkeley International school students scooped the school’s first trophy by coming first at a math competition, hosted recently at Pan Asia International School. The students, all boys in grades 4-7, successfully beat off competition from other schools in Bangkok to win the competition and scoop a 3,500 baht cash prize.
Bangkok Prep’s Spring Fair
BANGKOK International Preparatory & Secondary School on Sukhumvit 53 will host its Spring Fair on Saturday 17 March from 2pm-7pm. There will be food, entertainment, activities and prizes for all ages. Entry is free. Tel: 02 260 7890.
Harrow to host charity concert with Modern Dog
HARROW International School Bangkok will host a charity rock concert with Thai rock band Modern Dog on Fri 23 March. Held to raise funds for people in the Don Muang area who were affected by last year’s flooding, the concert will also feature performances by 18 of Harrow’s home grown rock bands. The event will feature over five hours of entertainment, concluding with a fireworks display at 9pm. Tickets are B350 and are available from the Harrow Music Department Tel: 02 503 7222 ext: 1236 or ext: 1109.
Shrewsbury student is Young Musician of the Year CHOMCHAT (Palm) Silarat, a Music Scholar at Shrewsbury International, was named last month the 2012 Conrad Young Musician of Thailand. She competed in the final of the competition against fellow Shrewsbury Music Scholar Gun Chaikittiwatana and two older competitors who are studying at Mahidol University. Palm, who is in Year 11, won the King’s Trophy, a cash prize of 100,000 baht and the chance to travel to London or Singapore to perform and to receive tuition from leading music professors.
St. Stephen’s opens weekend school
ST. Stephen’s International School is now offering free English classes for children aged three to four to help improve their English learning skills via fun lessons taught by qualified native speakers. The school also offers a free English placement test for students aged between five and fi fteen to assess their language ability. The tests take place every Sunday until March 25 (9am-lunch). Registration is required. Free of charge. For more info Tel: 02 513 0270 ext. 234.
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SCHOOL REPORT HARROW
HARROW RIDES FOR RAINBOW Schoolʼs charity bike ride raises half a million baht for Rainbow House Orphanage By Gordon Montgomery, Event Organiser at Harrow International School HARROW International School’s Ride for Rainbow charity cycle ride was a huge success last month, with 120 riders making the one-day journey from Ayutthaya’s famous Wat Chai Wattanaram to Rainbow House orphanage in Pak Kred. Held to raise money for the CCD (www.ccdthailand.org),
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a privately operated charity which looks after the 40 resident children at Rainbow House, and giving cyclists a chance to see the Thai countryside in a way many people never experience, this year’s event drew a larger number of participants not affiliated with the school, including a pair (with bikes) who
travelled from Bangkok by tuk-tuk. A wide range of ages (20s to 70s), experience and fitness level was also represented. A steady pace was maintained throughout the morning before the group took a short break at Wat Tha Sung, noted for its colony of large fruit bats hanging from the tall trees. The
Here they received an overwhelming greeting from the children and staff, and enjoyed a performance of the orphanage’s “Magic Show,” featured last year in the Bangkok Post. Meeting the children, some with quite severe physical impairments, provided another chance for the riders to appreciate the physical endeavour that they had undergone cold sponges and drinks in contrast to the provided made the daily challenges these chance to stop and enjoy youngsters face. the view even more This year’s Ride for appealing to the tiring Rainbow event raised cohort. half a million baht for A longer stop for CCD, taking the total lunch at a local village money raised over the brought respite and a past three years to over chance for the group to 1.5 million baht. reflect on the journey so Sponsors of the ride far - the winding roads, included RSM Thailand, klongs, bridges and Bike Zone at Amarin wildlife - before they and Active Management pressed on towards the Asia, and Spice Roads Chao Phraya. Cycle Tours. Once they reached the river’s The next Ride for edge, riders and their Rainbow will take place bikes were ferried to in September/October the opposite bank 2012. Interested parties where they followed (riders and sponsors) the last few kilometres are invited to contact to the orphanage. brian_v@harrowschool.ac.th
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SCHOOL REPORT BERKELEY
STUDENT SUCCESS; THE VANGUARD OF THE BERKELEY AQUATIC CENTER Berkeley始s state-of-the-art facility provides swimming lessons for toddlers to teens and even includes math and reading in its program. Here, Joshua Tebo, the school始s Aquatics Director and Physical Education Department Head, explains how the Center works ONE of the first things guests notice upon their arrival to Berkeley International School is the state-of-the-art aquatics center positioned at the heart of the campus nestled between the Kindergarten and Elementary buildings. The aquatics center boasts two pools accommodating all levels of swim instruction. Shade sails fly overhead providing the perfect atmosphere for students to choose between sun and shade. The shower areas provide 36
students with an intimate setting where they can change their clothes offering individuals complete privacy. The WSI program offers a comprehensive and developmentally appropriate sequence that teaches children how to swim. With several different skill levels, students are sure to find a suitable starting place within the program. The prerequisite for each level is the successful demonstration of the skills from the preceding level. Each level also includes lessons
in water safety, helping students to further understand what it means to be a safe life-long swimmer. As children complete each level, their knowledge, skills and confidence grows, making each individual student an extremely gifted swimmer. Students as young as 24 months of age are introduced to the preschool aquatics program within their first year at Berkeley. The first of three levels orientates children to the aquatic environment and helps
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activities within the water that support the homeroom curriculum, students are engaged as learners in core areas on a school-wide basis. By working with homeroom teachers, I develop lifelong learning activities that support classroom instruction and curriculum significantly improving student success within the classroom. them gain basic aquatic and students helps to With level one being the With fun activities skills. Level two helps ensure that all students most basic; it is a great that support learning, a children develop greater are emotionally and starting point for any state-of-the-art facility, independence in their physically safe, which is student to begin their and a veteran educator, swim skills. The third at the forefront of the aquatic development. the program is a great level assists children in program. After students com- success. But like all great their progression to gain The strong plete the prerequisite for programs, the backbone basic swim movement connections made during each level, they are then of the aquatics center capabilities further the preschool program challenged with new includes an extensive developing their comfort serves for a great start as skills within the next dedicated support team in the water. The prestudents head into the level. that is needed to ensure school program is the learn-to-swim program. A unique aspect the success of all students. perfect place for students As students proceed in of the WSI program at Nannies, maids and to learn to build trust the program, which is Berkeley is the inclusion teaching assistants all between themselves and comprised of six skill of core curricular subjects support the direct their instructors. The levels, they are continually such as math and reading initiatives of the aquatics establishment of trust challenged as they grow within the swim program. program. With the between the instructor into mature swimmers. By creating exciting overwhelming support
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from others and a very small student to teacher ratio (one teacher to every seven children) the student body at Berkeley will only continue to succeed in all aspects of their education. About the Author Fifteen-year veteran teacher Joshua Tebo has undergraduate degrees in Physical Education, Health Education, and Adaptive Physical Education, as well as a Master’s degree in Administrative Leadership. He is just one of the many highly talented educators at Berkeley International. Furthermore, Mr. Tebo is a Certified Lifeguard, a CPR/AED First Aid Responder, and he is certified to implement the American Red Cross Water Safety Instruction (WSI) program, which is the world’s foremost leading swim instruction program.
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INSIGHT PROBLEMS SOLVED
Ask the experts
Real Problem s Real Solution s
Expat life getting you down? Don’t suffer in silence. Send in your problems and get advice from professional counsellors Anette and Johanna Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com • Anette Pollner Adv. Dipl. Couns., is one of seven international counsellors at NCS Counseling Center in Saphan Kwai. She trained in London and the US and worked as a staff counsellor at Bart’s Hospital in London.
Confused by lack of sex drive
M
Y problem is so private that, ironically, this is the only way I can even discuss it. I am so ashamed that I don’t even think I could face a counselor. Here it is: I am a 35 year old man and I am not interested in sex. I have never felt any sexual urges, not even as a teenager. I invented endless excuses about not having a girlfriend, and in my twenties I finally tried a few relationships. All of them failed because of my lack of interest in sex. I understand that a girl feels rejected if I don’t want to be intimate with her, so I tried. I could perform if I had to but I didn’t enjoy it. Now I have been single for almost six years, with no sex. I am very social, I like going out in groups, I like chatting, working and traveling with both men and women. I like having deep conversations with good friends of both genders and I feel a sense of loyalty and love towards them. But if I am honest, I have no feelings of sexual desire, not for my friends and not for strangers, not even for images on the internet. But I feel I can’t tell anyone. I feel that people would think I am abnormal. So here is my question, because I need to get this right in my own head before I can even think of sharing it with others: am I sick? Do I have a shameful sexual dysfunction? Can I ever be a normal human being? Please help me.
Kieran, 31, from England
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Anette says: ■ Dear Kieran, I want to apologize on behalf of everyone who has given you the feeling that you are somehow ‘abnormal’ or ‘sick.’ Nobody deserves to be shamed for their sexual orientation. Because any deviance from the ‘sexual norm’ carries such stigma there is a lot of confusion around, but your experience is normally described as ‘asexuality,’ and many people now see it as a sexual orientation in its own right which can be temporary or permanent. More recently, men who feel like you have got together, mostly online, and very bravely started to talk about themselves. Most of them also talk about life long shame and fear of not being accepted by others. If what you really feel is no interest in sex, then maybe your sexual identity really is ‘asexual.’ This is part of who you are. It is not a dysfunction and it is not abnormal. It seems to be a natural variation of human sexuality, and throughout history there have always been people who lived sexless lives (and often were respected for it, too). However, asexual people are a minority in society and that creates other problems in a world that is mostly geared towards couples and families. The next question is how to deal with discrimination. If you have doubted your sexuality, then many others who have had less opportunity to reflect, may doubt it too. Maybe you need to help your friends by sharing your own feelings, challenging them to open their minds and respect you
for who you are, as you respect them. This transition period can be quite difficult and you need to choose very carefully how you manage your ‘coming out.’ But you have the power to shape this process. You say you would find it difficult to ‘face’ even a counselor and I can understand that. But if you are thinking of telling others, a professional who has ‘seen it all’ and who could offer you emotional support could well be a good person to start with. Whatever you decide to do, there is no cause for shame in being who you are. On the contrary, there is every reason to celebrate your own unique way of being human.
Money worries ruining my marriage I have been unhappy with my marriage for some years now and it all revolves around money. When my husband and I first moved here I had to give up my job so he could follow his career. I didn’t mind this, but as soon as we got here my husband took control of the bank accounts and said he would handle everything. We then started a family and I am now a full time mum with two kids. Running the household isn’t easy. Every time I need some money I have to ask my husband for it. I have to explain why I need the money and justify my decisions to him. He then starts arguing with me and usually tells me that I’m wasting money and should buy cheaper things. My husband doesn’t share his financial decisions with me, though, and I have no information about our bank accounts or savings. My husband has a wellpaid job, so I wonder where our money goes and why I am treated like this - accountable for every baht, and criticised for buying myself an ice cream. I feel terrible and have started to resent my husband. I wish I had never agreed to move here and become a full time mum (I do love my kids but would also like to work. I really loved my job). I feel almost ready to leave this marriage, but I do not have the means to support myself and my kids. Can I change things? Bianca, from Australia
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•Johanna DeKoning MS is the Clinical Director of NCS Counseling Center. She trained in the Netherlands and Australia.
Johanna says: ■ Dear Bianca, The balance in your marriage has shifted because of your finances. How did you handle this before? You say when you had your own bank account and he had his, you felt in control. But how did you divide the living costs? How well did you know each other’s financial circumstances? It seems to me that both of you have not sat down together and discussed how you would organize finances and responsibilities. But now you want to change that because you feel controlled and limited. Ask yourself first what is behind your feelings of resentment? Do you feel undervalued and unappreciated? Do you worry that the money goes somewhere else and will not benefit the family? Do you feel loved and love him and do you want to fight for your marriage? Would it be possible for you to go away together and create a positive atmosphere between the two of you? This would be a good opportunity to share how you feel about being a full time mom and being dependent on your husband and that you sometimes long
for your own job and financial independence. You could then tell him how you feel hurt when he tells you ‘it is his money’ and ask him if it could become ‘our money’ for the family, since you also work in taking care of the two kids. You want to be united in your marriage and that includes openness about finances (joint bank accounts?), raising your children together (do you involve your husband in this?) and sharing each other’s burdens. How does he perceive this? Is he perhaps resenting the fact he is now the sole breadwinner? Try to stay calm and friendly, even when he finds it difficult to engage with this topic. Tell him how important this is for you, and that is feels so painful that you sometimes wonder whether you should stay in this marriage. If your attempts only turn into fights every time then you could perhaps suggest to your husband to go to couples counseling so that a neutral party could help the two of you to understand each other better.
Contact details: ncs-counseling.com anette.p@ncs-counseling.com Tel: 02 279 8503 Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com
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Gourmet p Wine and restaurant news
Bei Ot in f to ocus PAGE 66
Escargots in traditional burgundy style with Parsley, garlic, butter, and white wine is just one of the tasty dishes served at the new D’Orsay restaurant, The Portico Langsuan.. Page 43.
What’s Cooking A round up of this month’s best gourmet deals. Yummy! Page 42
Recipe
Salmon salad is given a Thai twist, and it’s healthy and delicious Page 64
Dining out
Our favourite restaurants reviewed and listed Page 70 TheBigChilli
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GOURMET NEWS
What’s Cooking
Bangkok’s hottest dining deals and news Hot Choice!
Lobster showcase NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE, UNTIL APR 30
■ JW Marriott Bangkok’s superb steakhouse may be best known for its beef, but its seafood promotions are equally as good. For the next couple of months the restaurant’s chefs are using lobsters from the US and Phuket to create a wide range of dishes such as Lobster cappuccino salad, and Charcoal-grilled lobster. Prices start at B580++. JW Marriott Bangkok, 4 Sukhumvit Road, Tel: 02 656 7700 email: mhrs.bkkdt.newyork.steakhouse@ marriotthotels.com www.marriott.com
Afterwork Cocktails and Cones
Dream pasta FLAVA RESTAURANT & BAR, AVAILABLE NOW
■ DREAM Hotel’s all-day-dining restaurant is now offering its homemade pasta dishes for just B250 per dish. Highlights include Homemade tortellini in creamy butter sage sauce, Homemade spinach cannelloni with ricotta cheese and tomato sauce, and Squid-ink pasta with black pepper sauce. Open daily, 11.30am-10pm. Dream Hotel, 10 Sukhumvit Soi 15, Tel: 02 254 8500 email: info@dreambkk.com www.dreambkk.com
THE GLAZ BAR, MAR 28
■ A DIVERSE crowd and a vibrant atmosphere come as standard at this popular monthly event which features unique cocktails and all-you-can-eat canapés, Thai tapas, gourmet cones and Swiss Mövenpick ice cream. Pay B600 and you get four drinks coupons; pay B1,700 and you also get a French set dinner at The Reflexions Restaurant. Event starts 6.30pm. Live jazz at 8pm.
The taste of Belgium
Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel, 61 Wireless Road, Tel: 02 650 8800 ext. 4324 email: fb.bangkok@lemeridien.com lemeridien.com/plazaatheneebangkok
Tasty quote ■ “A bagel is a doughnut with the sin removed.” – George Rosenbaum
THE SQUARE, MAR 10-19
Unlimited Dim Sum LOK WAH HIN CHINESE RESTAURANT, MAR 23-31
■ FOR just over a week, Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square’s Chinese restaurant will offer its all-you-can-eat Dim Sum (Chinese dumpling) lunch for the special price of B620 per person. Price includes Chinese soup of the day, Fried rice, Noodles and Dessert. Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, Siam Square Soi 6, Tel: 02 209 8888 ext. Lok Wah Hin email: info@novotelbkk.com www.novotelbkk.com
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■ THE Square international restaurant at Novotel Bangna Bangkok is shifting its culinary focus to Belgium this month with a 10-day buffet promotion featuring the country’s most famous dishes. Highlights include Crumbed fish fillet with oat meal, Roast chicken marinated with beer, and Hochepot beef stew with pork sausage. Lunch is B600++; dinner, B700++. Novotel Bangna Bangkok, 333 Srinakarin Road Tel: 02 366 0505 ext.1431, 1432 www.novotel.com/asia
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Sunset Sundays POOL DECK, MAR 25
■ EVERY last Sunday of the month the St. Regis Bangkok is offering a ‘Sunset Sundays’ deal by its poolside on the 15th floor. Pay B480 and, from 4pm – 5pm, you get an open bar for cocktails, beer, and canapés (after 5pm you get two drinks). Alternatively, make a day of it and pay B2,650++ per person to include brunch at VIU from 12pm (normal price is B2,400++ per diner).
Parisian Afternoon Tea Buffet
St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Rajadamri Road Tel: 02 207 7801 email: fb.bangkok@stregis.com www.stregis.com
LOBBY LOUNGE, UNTIL APR 30
■ CENTARA Grand at CentralWorld has been holding some cracking food promotions recently (the Friday Seafood lunch at its Fifty Five Restaurant was superb), and this month it’s continuing the trend with a French Fauchon tea set at its Lobby Lounge featuring a good selection of classic French pastries such as Foie Gras Terrine and pineapple, and Radiccio and Blue cheese. B555++ per person. Served daily, 3pm-5.30pm. Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Road Tel: 02 100 6255 email: diningcgcw@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Wine and nibbles PLATINUM LOUNGE, UNTIL MAR 31
■ NOVOTEL Bangkok Platinum’s lounge bar is offering some good deals on wine and nibbles this month. Every Tuesday, cold cuts and a glass of Frontera Wine (Chile) is B650++ per person, or B2,400++ for a bottle. Every Thursday, cheese with a glass of Tree Line Range wine (Australia) is B750++, or B2,800++ for a bottle. On Fridays, Singha beer is B270++ per litre, and B540++ per two litres. Every night the hotel’s house band plays renditions of international hits. Novotel Bangkok Platinum, 220 Petchaburi Road, Tel: 02 160 7266 email: H7272-FB4@accor.com www.novotelbangkokplatinum.com
Tailored tacos SENOR PICO, UNTIL MAR 31
■ THE Rembrandt Hotel’s fun Mexican restaurant is giving diners the chance to order Tacos just like they like ‘em this month. Three made-to-order Tacos, featuring a choice of shells and fillings, are served for B350. Our favourites include Seared scallop and chorizo, and Grilled Aussie beef. Sangria is available at B799 per pitcher (4glasses). Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok, 19 Sukhumvit 18 Road, Tel: 02 617 100 ext. 7550 www.rembrandtbkk.com (Restaurant open daily 5pm-1am)
Just opened D’Orsay ■ INSPIRED by the cuisine of northern France, with a focus on mussels and steaks, this new restaurant at The Portico Langsuan imports many ingredients from France and does a good job of recreating the uncomplicated home-style cooking for which the north of the country is famed. Neat little touches abound: mussels come served in casserole pots with crispy baguettes for dipping into a lovely sauce; steaks are served on wooden chopping boards with a dollop of mustard; imported beers come served in flutes with wooden stands to hold them. The restaurant’s design
bucks the rustic trend and harks to cosmopolitan France, with a trendy black-and-white colour scheme and yellow-washed walls with large paintings of a woman, a fiery redhead, watching over all diners with a hypnotic stare. Highlights of the menu include Steamed mussels in Pernod, garlic, butter, parsley and shallot (B870); Pan fried 12hrs slow cooked duck leg served with mashed potato, duck jelly, rocket salad and mustard sauce (B425); Grilled Australian grain-fed beef cut served with French fries (B195/100g); and Escargots in traditional burgundy style with parsley, garlic, butter, and white wine (B245). The Portico Langsuan (BTS Chidlom) 3rd Floor, 31 Soi Langsuan, Tel: 02 650 4747, email: dorsay@dorsaybistro.com www.facebook.com/dorsay Open: (Tue-Thurs) 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-10.30pm, (Fri-Sat) 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, and (Sun) 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-10.30pm. Parking is available.
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GOURMET NEWS
Meaty treats Where to wrap your mouth around a juicy steak this month Dry aged Wagyu
From Mar 6-1, Déjà vu restaurant at Pullman Bangkok King Power is offering a three-course set menu featuring a choice of Forest Mushrooms Soup or Caesar Salad; a main course of 60-day dry aged Wagyu Prime rib of beef off the trolley with garlic roasted potatoes, assorted vegetables and Yorkshire pudding; and Profiteer rolls with vanilla bean ice-cream topped with warm chocolate fudge sauce. B1,500 per person.
8/2 Rangnam Road, Thanon-Phayathai, Tel: 02 680 9999 email: hotel@pullmanbangkokkingpower.com www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com
Wagyu specials
Until March 31, Loop Italian Restaurant at the Pathumwan Princess Hotel is offering a special menu of dishes made using premium Wagyu beef. Options include Slow cooked beef cheek; Wagyu tail parmentier, Beef consommé; Grilled rib eye; and Beef Tartar prepared tableside. Open daily, 11am-10.30pm.
New on the scene Crave ■ BOASTING a contemporary design, modern decor and floor-toceiling windows offering a view of Sukhumvit, this bright and airy restaurant at Aloft Bangkok serves a variety of eastern and western cuisines at good value for money. An open bar center stage serves a wide range of innovative cocktails, and the wine cellar stocks 3,000 bottles from more than 250 international labels. The restaurant is open daily, and offers a breakfast buffet, a semi-buffet menu selection at lunch (dishes such as Oven baked sea bass fillet with red bean curd rub and braised spring vegetables; and Beer batter fish and fries with spicy hollandaise sauce), and fresh seafood selections and daily specials for dinner. Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11, 8th floor, Tel: 02 207 7080
Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Road, Tel: 02 216 3700 ext. 20818 www.pprincess.com
Steak cuisine
From Mar 14-21, No.43 Italian Bistro will offer a special selection of meat dishes and steaks cooked in an Italian style. Highlights include Lamb chops in parmesan and parsley crust served with roast potatoes, and Grilled salmon fillet with aromatic mixed herbs served with grilled mixed vegetables.
Cape House Bangkok, 43 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Road, Tel: 02 658 7444 ext.285 www.capehouse.com
Not to miss:
Blue Spice
• Wine Pub’s steaks for sharing (see page 52)
• AmBar’s new steak menu (see page 58)
■ LOCATED on the fifth floor of the Grande Centre Point Hotel & Residence Sukumvit – Terminal 21, Blue Spice serves up a wide range of international cuisines, local favourites, and even some Thai Fusion. So alongside the usual burgers, pizzas, curries, salads, and pasta choices are dishes such as Calamari and Eringi fritters with spicy pecan; and Grilled tuna salad entrée with black olives served with an orange dressing. A good selection of desserts is also available. Open daily, 10.30am-10pm. 2, 88 Sukhumvit Soi 19 (Wattana), Sukhumvit Road, www.grandecentrepointterminal21.com
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GOURMET NEWS
Easter Sunday brunches
Chefs on the move
Celebrate the occasion with a feast (April 8) Grand Millennium Sukhumvit
Atelier’s sumptuous international brunch buffet offers an extensive range of cold cuts, cheese, Alaska crabs, foie gras, sushi, salad, desserts, and more. Activities for kids include egg-hunting and egg-painting. B1,400 per person with free-flow sparkling wine, house wine, beer, fruit juice, and soft drinks. Go four persons and pay for only two. Noon -3.30pm. 30 Sukhumvit 21 (Asoke) Road, Tel: 02 204 4161 email: fb@grandmillenniumskv.com www.grandmillenniumskv.com
St. Regis Bangkok
Three good options here: VIU’s gourmet brunch buffet featuring foie gras, shellfish on ice, slow-roasted prime rib, DOP cheeses, and more will be B3,200++per person (includes fun activities for the kids); The Drawing Room will offer two Afternoon Tea sets with top-class nibbles at B750++ (The Classic Tea), B950++ (The St Regis Tea), and B6,400++ ( The St Regis Royal Tea for two); and Italian restaurant Jojo will serve a special set lunch and set dinner priced B2,800++ per person. (All half price for kids aged 6 – 12).
Michelin magic at La Scala and Colonnade ■ INNOVATIVE French cuisine will be the order of the day when Chef Alain Passard, owner of the three Michelin star Arpège restaurant in Paris, brings his team to Bangkok to take control of the kitchens of The Sukhothai Bangkok from Apr 24-29. The event will kick-off on Apr 24 with a wine dinner at La Scala restaurant. Lunch and dinner will then be available at La Scala from Apr 25-28, before the event ends with Sunday Brunch on Apr 29 at Colonnade. 13/4 South Sathorn Road, Tel: 02 344 8888 email: promotions@sukhothai.com www.sukhothai.com
New chef for Tapas Y Vino
159 Rajadamri Road, Tel: 02 207 7777 email: fb.bangkok@stregis.com www.stregis.com
Intercontinental Bangkok
Espresso’s Easter Sunday Brunch presents a large selection of brunch favourites alongside live jazz. B2,149++ per adult (including soft drinks, tea, and coffee), B1,075++ per child aged 6-12, and free for kids under 5. Served Noon – 3pm.
973 Ploenchit Road, Tel: 02 656 0444 ext. 6430 email: dining@ihgbangkok.com www.dining-experience.com
Holiday Inn Bangkok
While adults tuck into the extensive brunch buffet kids get to enjoy their own ‘Alice in Wonderland Tea Party’ with sandwiches, milkshakes, chocolate bunnies, and games and activities. B799++ per adult (pay extra B599++ for free flow beers and wines), B599++ per child aged 7-12, and B399++ per child under 6. All kids get a free T-shirt. 971 Ploenchit Road, Tel: 02 656 1555 ext. 5401 email: holidayinn@ihgbangkok.com www.dining-experience.com
■ GRAND Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel has appointed Joan Tanya Dot as the new Spanish Chef and Restaurant Manager of its award-winning Tapas Y Vino restaurant. Chef Joan has more than 10 years’ international experience cooking Spanish cuisine for leading hotels, resorts and restaurants, including the 3-star Michelin Can Fabes in Barcelona, and La Dehesa in London. Prior to joining Tapas Y Vino, he was Executive Head Chef at a charcuterie and international tapas restaurant in Cayman Islands. Joan will oversee the operation of the restaurant as well as special events, banquet and room service involving a Spanish touch. A new menu at Tapas Y Vino will also be introduced incorporating Mediterranean dishes as well as Asian-inspired tapas. www.grandmillenniumskv.com
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GOURMET NEWS
Gourmet scrapbook Last month’s foodie functions in focus
French delights for Chaîne des Rôtisseurs ■ THE Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, Thailand began the year in style with a sumptuous dinner at the elegant riverside residence of the French Ambassador to Thailand, H.E. Mr Gildas Le Lidec. Led by Joe Prasobsook Thawilvejjakul, the Association’s President, a group of around 70 members enjoyed an eight course meal of French delights paired with fine wines from well known regions of France, namely Loire, Burgundy, Alsace, Rhone and Bordeaux. The meal was prepared by Executive Chef Norbert Kostner of the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. The Thailand Chapter of Chaîne des Rôtisseurs was established in 1974, with Rear Admiral M.L. Usni Pramoj being elected as the first Balli Delegue or the President of the society.
Sicilian Fish on the Road ■ After the success of the promotional tour “Sicilian Fish on the Road 2011,” which travelled around Italy and abroad, the Sicilian Regional Council’s Department of Agriculture and Food (SRCDAF), within the scope of the EFF (European Fisheries Fund 2007-2013), packed its bags once again to travel the world and this time added Thailand to its long list of destinations. To promote its products, the SRCDAF hosted a special dinner at the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit where invited restaurant owners, foodies, and VIP guests enjoyed cooking demonstrations and a tasty meal of Sicilian seafood. For more info: www.sicilianfishonthenet.com
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Michelin moments at Reflexions ■ French chef Jérôme Nutile, owner of the two Michelin-star le Castellas restaurant in France, arrived in town last month to take control of the kitchens for two days at The Reflexions Restaurant, Plaza Athénée Bangkok. The highlight of the promotion was a fivecourse wine dinner, which was specially paired with the uber-refined wines of Chateau Mas Neuf in the Rhône region, personally presented by their celebrated mastermind, Monsieur Luc Baudet.
Paul Harris Fellowship Dinner ■ ROTARY Club of Bangkok South held the 2012 edition of its annual Paul Harris Fellowship dinner at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok. A large number of Rotarians, including new Water Fellows (individuals who have personally sponsored at least one clean drinking water system in a rural Thai school) and Paul Harris Fellowship donors, who have donated USD 1,000 to the Rotary Foundation during the current Rotary year, enjoyed an evening of fine wines and gourmet food plus a presentation by guest speaker Khun Pichai Chuensuksawadi, Editor-in-Chief of the Bangkok Post. The Paul Harris Fellowship is named after Paul Harris, who founded Rotary over 100 years ago. The Fellowship was established in his honor in 1957 to express appreciation and recognition for a contribution of USD 1000 to the Rotary Foundation.
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REVIEW NO IDEA
NO IDEA WHERE TO EAT OUT? NO IDEA’S THE ANSWER
By Raine Grady
Enjoy a gastropub experience on Sukhumvit 22 GASTROPUB, a term coined in London back in 1991 when two mates took over The Eagle pub in Clerkenwell, breathed new life into both pub culture and British dining. Since then, the concept has taken off in the United States and in my home country Australia, where it’s a hugely popular restaurant option. Now this successful concept is catching on in Bangkok, and it’s been adopted with flair and style at “No Idea” in
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the heart of the city on Sukhumvit 22. The name might suggest otherwise, but the team behind No Idea have put considerable thought into their venue’s design, ambiance and menu. The building itself reminds me of the old Queenslander pubs I used to frequent in my old home town of Brisbane. For others it may be reminiscent of colonial Asia. The venue features big wooden entrance doors and wooden
floors, and wide terraces both upstairs and downstairs that are chilled and stylish. There’s a bar on both floors and you can choose between bar stools, casual chaise lounge seats or chunky wooden tables. This is still a pub for sports lovers and there are a selection of plasma TVs throughout offering football, rugby, golf and whatever else is in demand. The atmosphere is relaxed, the service is warm and friendly and
it’s also a great place for ladies. I ventured here with a few girlfriends for some chilled mojitos and good music. On Monday nights Rhythm Nation dish up some jazz, funk and R&B, while on Friday and Saturday it’s Yamin and the Boys with a great Blues line-up. The real draw here for many of course is the food and like all great gastropubs the menu is a work of art. There’s an all day breakfast or you can nibble on tasty tapas. Try the lamb shank skewer with olive pesto or the Green Shell Mussels gratinated with tomato salsa. I began with the Crisp Prosciutto with spinach leaves, tomato, asparagus and parmesan. The Caesar Salad with Walnuts is also a good size and delicious. There’s a great choice of soups, pastas, risottos, pizza, as well as local favourites. Like all good pubs there’s a selection of
sandwiches and burgers. The Wagyu beef burger with cheese is a real feast. The main courses are mouth-watering and served with top imported ingredients. The New Zealand Lamb Rack is a sea salted rack of lamb with fried rosemary, Spanish gazpacho, ragout and balsamic reduction. The pan fried fillet of John Dory in parmesan crust with avocado is also a must-try. Save some space for dessert. The Crème Brûlée with marinated pineapple and the Panna Cotta with fresh berries are both so wicked you won’t want to share. Whether or not this becomes your local, a girls night out, a Sunday Brunch venue or a place to watch the latest game, No Idea has the space, style and comfort to ensure you had the right idea to come here. Sukhumvit Soi 22, Tel: 02 663 6686 email: info@noideabkk.com www.noideabkk.com
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REVIEW WINE PUB
WINE PUB’S WAGYU WONDER Top quality steak dinner feeds four, comes with a bottle of wine, and is only B1,247 per person WINE Pub at Pullman Bangkok King Power has long been one of our favourite wine bars. Offering over 150 wines and a hearty selection of Tapas and Parisian bistro-style cuisine, plus a vast range of imported cold cuts, cheeses and pates, all served in a chic yet laid-back setting, there’s something to please everyone. Now Wine Pub’s given us a reason to fall in love with it all over again with the introduction of a new Wagyu steak dinner which features a 1.5kg slab of imported Australian Wagyu beef served with enough mashed potatoes and mixed veggies to feed four persons. Because the
Wagyu takes 30 minutes to cook, you also get a big bowl of mushroom soup to share first. When the huge piece of meat is placed before you in a large white platter it’s hard not to be impressed; just two slices of this meaty monster resemble some of the biggest steaks served elsewhere, and at B4,990 (only B1,247
per person), including a bottle of house wine, it’s a bargain. The quality of the meal is superb and brings to mind the homemade dinners of good countryside restaurants in England – hearty, simple food that’s been cooked to order using the best ingredients available, and just wonderful when
shared with friends. The steak’s not the only highlight here; there are delicious house specials like Grilled snow fish virgin sauce and garden salad (B990) and Free range chicken casserole with plum tomatoes, dry white wine and red peppers (B890). The
“Retour du Marche” (Fresh from the market) menu which changes every three days is also worth a look, normally featuring some lovely seafood. Everything on this menu is just B990. As for desserts, Executive Pastry Chef Vero Cyrille’s Tarte Tartin (upside down apple tart) is not to be missed. The apples, soaked in caramel, are full of sweet flavour and pair wonderfully with the vanilla cream sauce.
IT’S A DEAL
Until April 30, Wine Pub is offering a ‘Discover the world of Rosé’ promotion which offers a glass of Rosé wine (six to choose from) with two tapas for B360 per person. Daily promotions, served 6pm – 10pm, are B990 each and include a bottle of house wine. Highlights include a five cheeses and five cold cuts promo on Thursdays, and all-you-can-eat tapas on Saturdays. Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8/2 Rangnam Road, Ratchathewi Tel: 02 680 9999 www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com
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The staff at Wine Pub is friendly and efficient and knowledgeable about wines. Tell them your tastes and budget, and they’ll have no problem suggesting a wine to match. Don’t be surprised if this is a house wine (B180 per glass; B900 per bottle) – unlike many other restaurants the staff here really does consider the options and doesn’t just suggest the most expensive wine on the menu. And the house wines are far from being cheap plonk; restaurant manager Laurent Levraud personally selects them and dismisses anything that doesn’t meet his high standards. On our last visit we had a house red Concha Y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile, and alongside the steak it was great.
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Sukhumvit branch open Mon - Fri for lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm, and Dinner 5.30pm - 11.30pm Open all day Sat - Sun from 11.30am - 11.30pm. Tel : 02 259 3569. Visit: http://iltartufobangkok.com NEW BRANCH OPEN NOW! Located at the Avenue Chaengwattana. Please come and visit us. Tel: 02 574 1774
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REVIEW HEAWEN FOR BURGER DEVILS
Anake Detchai, Restaurant Manager (left), and Wiwat ChanUdon, Sous Chef (right)
DEVISHLY DELICIOUS BURGERS AT HEAWEN
fries and a drink). Other good options, aside from burgers, include Classic Fish & Chips (B180), which features fried cod with an interesting choice of batter (sake, beer, vodka, Pernod, or Sangsom); Caesar Chicken Salad (B120); and Somtam
The fast food concept is given a healthy Thai twist at Heawen for Burger Devils GLANCE at the food pictures on Heawen for Burger Devils’ menu, or take a quick peek at what’s on a diner’s plate, and you might think that this restaurant serves typical fast food burgers. But appearances can be deceiving. There are no mass-produced meat patties jammed between bread buns here. All burgers are made fresh each day using choice cuts of meat – and, to please fans of Asian cuisine, even have unique local twists.
This means you can wrap your mouth around burgers inspired by Thai tastes such as Larb, Pon Yang Kham beef, Green chicken curry and Masaman. And because all the burgers are made using low-cholesterol bread buns, they’re also a much healthier option than your usual fast food fare. In fact, each burger served has only 200 calories. Located on the second floor of K-Village Shopping Mall, Heawen for Burger Devils is owned and operated by Siam@ Siam Design Hotel & Spa. While it is essentially a fast food restaurant, it has one
IT’S A DEAL
major advantage over the competition – in charge of the kitchen, and the brains behind the recipes, is the hotel’s executive chef. There aren’t many fast food burger joints that can claim to have a seasoned chef in the kitchen, especially one with meaty international experience like Executive Chef Decha Mingkwan. But he regularly visits
Until March 31, spend 500 baht using a K-Bank debit/credit card and you’ll get a free burger.
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the restaurant to take charge of the grill and ensure his unique burger recipes, which he began developing while working for several years in Belgium, are being followed to his exacting standards. Highlights of his menu include the Ko Khun Classic Beef Burger (B109); Pork and Chicken Burgers (B99 each); a spicy Larb Lamb Burger (B150); and the new spicy Kaprao Turkey Chicken with Fried Egg Burger (B79). (Add B40 to each order for
Fruit Salad (B99). Next time you’re shopping in K-Village and fancy a nibble, check this restaurant out and you’re bound to find something to satisfy your appetite. 93-95 K Village, Second Floor (A218), Sukhumvit 26, Tel: 02 204 2001 (delivery available) email: Heawen@ siamatsiam.com Open: Daily 10am-10pm (burgers are also available at Party House One, Siam@Siam Design Hotel & Spa)
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REVIEW ZAKS WINE PUB
WINE AND ALL THINGS FINE AT ZAKS New wine pub on Sukhumvit Soi 11 offers inexpensive wines and tasty eats in an upmarket atmosphere SEEN from the outside, Zaks Wine Pub looks like it ought to be expensive. The setting inside a renovated house is striking, and the modern design, spied through the windows and illuminated with warm subdued lighting, looks just as good as any other classy wine bar in Bangkok. But there’s one big difference here – the price.
Zaks, being a ‘wine pub,’ is keen to distance itself from the usual snobbery found at most wine bars and offer wine drinking culture to all. And that means making the experience inexpensive, but without scrimping on quality. So while the wine list may not be one of the most extensive in town – it tops out at around 45 bottles – it’s
certainly one of the most carefully selected, and most affordable. There’s something for every budget, taste, and occasion, with prices ranging from only B100 for a glass of Bodega Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile) House Wine, up to B4,300 for a bottle of Telegramme (France) Chateauneuf Du Pape – a steal in Bangkok for a wine of this quality.
IT’S A DEAL
There’s also a range of innovative cocktails on offer, many of which are the unique creations of Zaks’ GM, Keoma Intravaia, a flair ‘cocktail master’ who taught mixology in his native Rome for many years before working in New York and Sydney. A former competition judge working for Absolut and Campari, Keoma uses
Zaks’ ‘Latin Night’ every Thursday offers 50% off selected cocktails. Daily Happy Hours – or, as Zaks calls them, ‘Apy Hours’ (Aperitivo Hours) – from 4pm-7pm also offer good deals. Zaks Wine Pub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Opposite Grand President), open daily 6pm-1am (02 651 0214)
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only the finest spirits to create his drinks. Sit out on the balcony (smokers welcome) sipping a zesty and bitter Sparkling Zak (B240. Prosecco and Aperol), and it’s very pleasurable indeed. If cocktails and wine aren’t your thing, you can always opt for a local beer (B100). In charge of the kitchen is American chef Albert Leach. An expert in French fine dining, chef Albert worked as Head Chef at L’Auberge Provencal in Virginia for 16 years. At Zak’s he creates a range of global tapas (B115 per dish) with delicious choices such as Homemade flatbread with hummus and baba ganoush, Peking duck pancakes, and, our favourite, Maryland crabcakes with old time ‘slaw. In addition to the tapas, Zaks also offers a good choice of thin crust pizzas cooked in a traditional wood fired pizza oven, plus a range of gourmet burgers. The signature Zaks burger, which comes burger with smoked bacon, a wonderfully sharp English cheddar, and caramelized onion, may just be one of the best burgers in town.
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REVIEW AMBAR
AMBAR: RAISING THE STEAKS WITHOUT THE COST
Four Points by Sheratonʼs rooftop bar now offers top grade beef for as little as B650 DINERS looking for good cuts of meat in Bangkok usually end up paying through the roof. But this isn’t the case at Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15, whose popular rooftop poolside hangout amBar is now offering delicious steak dinners at down to earth prices.
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Using top quality meat from the USA and Australia, such as Australian Black Angus and Wagyu, as well as US Angus, the hotel’s chefs have created a new Steakhouse Menu for amBar which features 250g cuts of Tenderloin, Rib Eye, Sirloin, and Rump. Prices range from B650 for Wagyu rump steak up to B1,700 for a Wagyu tenderloin. Top quality US certified Angus tenderloin is only B990; 240 days grain fed Black Angus rib eye is just B850; and 110 days grain fed Sirloin is a mere B650.
Extras such as Jacket potatoes, French fries and Creamed spinach can be ordered for B100 each, and there’s even a small selection of appetizers, including a very tasty Breaded fried calamari (B200) and Salade Nicoise (B250). The latter comes in a glass jar that diners can shake to mix the leaves and dressing. The more you shake, the better it tastes. Anyone that doesn’t eat beef isn’t left out because they can enjoy choices such as Lamb chops (three cutlets, B800); Baby spring chicken (B500); and Salmon steak (B550). And the dessert menu has something to please everyone – don’t miss the Coconut custard (B140), which is served in a roasted young coconut shell, or the
sweet and lovely Mango sticky rice mousse (B140). Standing at only eight storeys above ground level amBar hardly scrapes the sky – in all directions you can see taller buildings pushing their noses towards the clouds – but it’s still far enough away from the reality of the road to offer a tranquil atmosphere, and its laidback vibe, bolstered by subdued lighting, comfy couches, and chilled-out music, is hard not to love – especially when you’ve got one of the bar’s many signature cocktails in your hand, like the boozy and refreshing Passion fruit
martini (B250). Bliss. amBar’s Steak Menu is available daily 6.30pm – 10.30pm. An a la carte menu featuring sandwiches, pizza, and fusion dishes is also available. All prices are net! Sukhumvit 15, Tel: 02 309 3000, fourpoints.com/ bangkoksukhumvit15 www.facebook.com/ambar
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GOURMET NEWS
Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy
Time for Reflexions
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The BB&B dining group enjoys an exquisite lunch at Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel
HE Reflexions, flagship restaurant of Plaza Athénée Bangkok, was the venue for our second lunch of 2012. The hotel had suggested we awaited the return of the restaurant’s Chef de Cuisine, Thibault Chiumenti, from annual leave and it proved to be excellent advice. Our food spokesman, Loch Jackson, could find no fault with either presentation or content and a substantial majority of the remaining diners agreed with him. Starting as we often do with a
sparkling white wine from Yarra Valley (VIC, Australia), Domaine Chandon, our 18 guests assembled around the bar enjoying both wine and the ambience. We sat down promptly to enjoy an interesting amuse bouche (Salmon Tartar with jelly tomato salsa) and the first of two white wines chosen to accompany the first courses. Kilkanoon Mort’s Block Riesling 2007 (Clare Valley, S Australia) proved to be a controversial choice. It found favour with Simon Rindlisbacher, our wine spokesman for the day, and was a good match for the Alaskan king crab salad with old aged mustard, poached quail egg,
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raw sliced vegetables and green asparagus espuma in shell. Some however objected to the ‘petrol’ nose and were expecting the more classic taste of an Alsace riesling (more sweet, less fruit). The salad was exceptional. After a decent rest for the palate, Chef Thibault produced Crispy pig’s trotter and buttered Burgundy snails fricassee, baby mushroom,
sun dried tomato and fresh baby salad accompanied by Paringa Estate Chardonnay 2009 (VIC, Australia). James Halliday said of this wine: ‘Bright straw-green; estate-grown; a wine of great finesse and subtlety, despite its hefty alcohol; the stone fruit flavours are complexed by nutty oak, and the finish is well balanced.’ Not many could agree with this description but it tasted much better with and after the food. The dish was well-liked; the serving was generous and the dish an innovative one. After ‘granite,’ a very nice cleanser for the palate, the next wine to appear was D’Arenberg ‘Footbolt’ Shiraz 2005
(McLaren Vale, SA). It proved to be a popular choice and an average of three glasses per head vanished in no time. For the second month in a row, we dined on Beef duo: grilled tenderloin and braised cheeks this month served on a bed of green beans purée, French bean fagot and mushroom and foie gras cromesquis. The tenderloin was cooked to perfection and I found the foie gras cromesquis very enjoyable, a view shared by Loch and many others. There followed an interesting selection of French cheeses with more of the excellent bread served earlier in the meal and this was matched by a Club regular, Sandalford Founders Reserve Port. The proceedings were completed by a round of coffee and a collection for the staff. Chef Thibault was on hand to receive our thanks, accompanied by a seemingly large band of kitchen staff and our four very professional servers. Well done, The Reflexions! Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel, 61 Wireless Road, Lumphini, Tel: 02 650 8800 www.plazaatheneebangkok.com
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GOURMET Q&A
Bar Banter
This month: Khun Anyanaee ‘An’ Laokham
The bar manager of The St. Regis Bar, St. Regis Bangkok, reveals what it’s like to work at the bar and explains which days are best to visit and why When did you first join The St. Regis Bar and what made you decide to work there? I have been working in the hotel industry for almost 10 years and The St. Regis is among the world’s top brands. When I got the offer to join the property in September 2011, I took the job without hesitation. I joined the hotel not so long after its soft opening. It is a big challenge working in a newly opened place. You have to train your staff and build great team work. You have to make sure that everything is just right so that guests will thoroughly enjoy their experience at the bar and will want to return. What is the best thing about being a bartender at the bar? Bartending is an art, and there’s much more to the job than simply mixing drinks and memorizing recipes. To be a great bartender you need to be able to form an emotional connection with your customers, you need to practice your skills every day, and, to be outstanding, you need to develop your own techniques. I view every compliment I receive for my work as an achievement; much like an artist who’s just had someone compliment his or her artwork. Getting a compliment makes all the hard work worth it. What can customers expect from a visit to the bar? What are its highlights? The bar is stylish and cozy, offers one of the best views in the city, and is the perfect place to enjoy unique
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experiences and memorable moments. Our signature “Bloody Mary,” first served in the first St. Regis hotel in New York over a century ago, is a must try. We also have our own adapted version of the cocktail with Thai flavours called the “Siam Mary.” Another highlight is our Champagne sabering ritual. This is held daily at 6.30pm and demonstrates the art of separating the collar from the neck of a champagne bottle with a saber. What nights/days are best to visit and why? The St. Regis Bar has many appealing offers and each is unique and responds differently to a guest’s needs.Visit during the day, for example, and you’ll find a delightful afternoon tea set that’s perfect
for sipping while sitting and soaking up the views of the Royal Bangkok Sports Club. Come at night, and you’ll find a range of promotions designed to give you and your friends a great night out. Every Tuesday from 7pm-11pm we host a ‘Johnnie Walker Black Label Jazz Night’ which features a performance by jazz vocalist Lookpad Chollanun, plus bottles of Johnnie Walker Double Black Label (1 litre including 4 mixers) for just B1,990++ per bottle. Every Wednesday from 6pm-8pm Martinis are two for one (price starts at B330++); and Ladies’ Night every Thursday offers special prices for ladies from 6pm-9pm. The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Rajdamri Road Tel: 02 207 7777, www.starwoodhotels.com
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GOURMET NEWS
cut out and keep
Recipe of the month Sliced marinated salmon served with Ginkgo and micro sprout tossed in Northeastern style vinaigrette (serves 4) Salmon salad is given a tasty Thai twist in this healthy and delicious recipe by of Aloft Bangkok’s Executive Chef, Nachart ‘Nine’ Tengkanokkul Ingredients
Method
Fresh salmon 300g Maldon sea salt 100g Ginkgo, boiled 80g Micro herbs 30g Roasted rice powder 20g Mixed salad 200g Red onion, thin sliced and soaked in cold water 50g • Cucumber Japanese, thin sliced and soaked in cold water 100g • Half cherry tomato 80g
1. Put the maldon sea salt on top of the salmon and keep it in fridge for 20 min 2. After that, remove the salt and wash the salmon with cold water. Dry well, set aside 3. For dressing: combine the ingredients and pour into serving bottle 4. For Parmesan cheese biscuit: sprinkle grated parmesan cheese in a Teflon pan, over medium heat 5. Add some crispy rice and paprika powder. As soon as the mixture melts, remove from pan and roll it into a big round shape and set aside. 6. To serve: arrange iceberg lettuce and mixed salad on plate with tomato, cucumber, and ginkgo 7. Thin slice the salmon, add some dressing 8. Add salmon to the salad. Garnish with micro herbs and parmesan cheese biscuit
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Dressing • 2 Limes, juice/zest • 1 Chilli (large) • Small red chilli, thinly sliced 100g • Garlic 40g • Cane or dark brown sugar 200g • Tamarind juice 200g • Fish sauce 200g • Roasted rice powder 100g • 8 Rice crackers for garnish • Parmesan cheese 20g • Paprika powder 5g
About the Chef CHEF Nachart ‘Nine’ Tengkanokkul is Executive Chef at the recently opened Aloft Bangkok - Sukhumvit 11. Drawing from a Thai and Australian heritage, he boasts an impressive roster of experience and accolades achieved over 20 years working as a professional chef in both upscale eateries and hotel restaurants in Australia and Thailand. Previous workplaces include Le Méridien Bangkok, JW Marriott Bangkok, The Landmark Bangkok and both The Ritz Carlton Hotel and Park Royal Plaza Hotel in Sydney, Australia. Try Chef Nine’s food for yourself at Crave Restaurant, Aloft Bangkok - Sukhumvit 11.
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GOURMET FEATURE BEI OTTO IN FOCUS
Otto: Feeding Bangkok German fare for 28 years It may not enjoy the same high profile as Italian cuisine, but quality German food has a substantial following in Bangkok thanks mostly to one restaurant, Otto Duffner’s homely Bei Otto on Sukhumvit. And after almost three decades in business, Mr Otto knows a thing or two about operating a successful eatery
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RUNNING a restaurant in Bangkok is possibly one of the toughest businesses a foreigner can get involved in. Multiple concerns such as location, rent, staffing, equipment, and supplies can turn dark hair grey in a matter of weeks, and stiff competition from thousands of other restaurants means unpopular venues often close down in a matter of months. It’s no surprise, then, that Bangkok’s foreign restaurants are like stars in the city’s night sky – some are visible for a short time before fading from view; only a special few remain. One enduring star in Bangkok’s foreign dining scene is Bei Otto, run by German expat Otto Duffner. For an amazing 28
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By Maxmilian Wechsler
years, this notably unpretentious restaurant has been keeping hungry diners happy with generous portions of German cuisine served in a rustic pub environment. And it’s not just the restaurant that’s popular. Bei Otto also has a thriving delicatessen and café selling a wide variety of products from Otto’s own bakery and butchery, which are also sold in several local markets. Otto’s outside catering service does good business too. Photos of famous customers, including members of the Thai royal family, diplomats, prominent personalities and international sports stars, plus framed awards and articles by local and
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foreign press appear in the restaurant and delicatessen. And after almost three decades, there’s no sign of this popularity waning. So, what is the secret of Otto’s success? Can it be emulated by other foreigners setting up business in Thailand? “For foreigners, the recipe for success in business in Thailand – and this applies not only to restaurants – is to come here and get a feeling for the place first, then do your research and explore everything,” says Otto. “Don’t rush into a business, take your time to know the country, the way of life, the people, their mentality and their customs. Open your heart and mind to the Thai people and respect them. You must also find a way to be accepted by them. “Don’t expect everything to be done within a few days after you open your checkbook. Take your time, accept a different way of life, work hard, be friendly and return smiles. “For sure, sometimes there are conflicts and it is not always easy to keep your cool, especially when it comes to business. Maybe the country you came from – like my native Germany, where everyone is well organized and follows strict rules – is very different from the easy-going Thai way, whether in life or in business.” Born in 1947 in Triberg, in the Black Forest region of southwestern Germany, Otto grew up in a town near his birthplace called Königsfeld. At 14 he began a three-year apprenticeship as a cook, and then spent several years studying regional German cuisines. His hard work paid off in 1975 when the Heidelberg Chamber of Commerce awarded him the title of Master Chef. Otto left Germany for the first time in 1980 to holiday in Thailand, and he was immediately impressed by the hospitality, friendliness and culture of the Thai people. He also liked the warm climate. A few months after his return to Germany he saw an advertisement in a German business newspaper saying that the Boon Rawd Brewery needed a German chef for a position in Bangkok. He applied and was accepted. When he returned to Bangkok in 1981 it was as chef at the Singha Bierhaus on Soi Asoke. He enjoyed the work and his new surroundings, but he longed to open a restaurant of his own. His dream came true when he took over and renovated
a German bakery between Sukhumvit Sois 12 and 14. And in July 1984, with a huge debt, he opened the original 60-seat “Bei Otto” restaurant, employing 12 people. He added a butchery and delicatessen later on. Because the place was too small to accommodate his growing customer base, in 1990 Otto moved the entire business to Sukhumvit Soi 20. At present the restaurant can seat 250 and employs 75 people permanently, all of them Thai, plus some part-time staff, mainly during high season or for special events like Oktoberfest.
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FEATURE STREET GOURMET FEATURELIFE BEI OTTO IN FOCUS “I work around 80 hours per week, which deprives me of hobbies like playing soccer and swimming,” says Otto. “All I can do now is watch sport on television, when I have the time. In fact, my business is my hobby. I enjoy creating new breads, cakes, sausages or meals. “I really love having a personal connection with my customers, listening to stories about their lives, problems and so on. This kind of business relationship is not so common outside Thailand,” he said. “My philosophy is that if you work in the field of hospitality you must put your heart into it. If you are in it only for the money then you should change your profession because it is not going to work. Just on instinct alone customers can tell whether or not the hospitality shown towards them is genuine or false. They don’t want to feel like someone is only being nice to them just to relieve them of money.” “My business has developed steadily since 1984, with certain short-lived setbacks like, for example, the military coup in 2006, the closure of airports in 2009, the street unrest in 2010 and the floods last year. All of these events had some impact on my business but the effect wasn’t long-lasting.Things quickly returned to normal after each upheaval, and in some cases even improved.” During last year’s floods, when perishable items in the city were scarce, Bei Otto’s delicatessen actually increased its business. Stocks of meat, breads, pastries, dairy products, and Bei Otto’s own bottled water would sell out almost daily. Although business at the restaurant dropped off during this period, it was soon back to normal once the waters receded.
“We don’t rely much on the tourist business, which counts for between 20 to 25 per cent in high season,” says Otto. “Most of our customers are Bangkok residents. About 40 per cent are Asian, led of course by Thais, many of whom have been regular customers for years. Now their relatives, the young generation, are coming in. “The locals increasingly appreciate foreign cuisines, which is actually a worldwide trend because people are exposed to a dramatically wider choice of foods than ever before. Italian food is the most popular choice for Thais. It is harder to get Thai customers to eat German food. Japanese make up the second largest group of Asian customers – they have been coming in bigger numbers than in the past – followed by Koreans. “I have to say the quality of customers has been improving by the year, compared to the past when there were many sex tourists visiting Thailand,” Otto says.
Whoever is not really good at their business will have a hard time in Bangkok. The competition is very strong.
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Help wanted
Despite his obvious love for the business he grew from nothing, after more than a quarter of a century Otto is ready to take a less active role, at least for a while. “I have been working for many years, and it’s been very stressful. I am planning a holiday, maybe a trip around the world, to recharge my batteries. “I will hire soon a European to be the general manager. It is quite difficult to find the right person. Generally speaking – and this is something Thai business owners have also told me – when you need an expert or professional in our business, whether they are young or whatever, they will arrive in Bangkok and get distracted by the night life and it will negatively affect
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their performance. This is has always been a big problem. “It is absolutely necessary to continue to serve my customers in the best way possible, with the best quality of food and service. I need someone like me, who is willing to get up early in the morning and look after the business. My philosophy is that if you stop and lie back, this is the beginning of a downturn.” Otto’s work ethic is certainly admirable, but has it made him wealthy? “I have a good life and I am comfortable in this respect,” says Otto, pointing out that he has invested more than 20 million baht in his business. He admits his business has grown faster than he could have ever anticipated, and reckons the future could be very lucrative – provided his company can adapt to meet increased demand for Bei Otto’s food products. “We are now getting more customers and clients [for the food products], including supermarkets in Bangkok and in the provinces. This requires making lots of deliveries, which involves logistics, and bringing more products online. “I have gone from running a small family business to a big business. Therefore, I am now in the process of improving the way the company functions. I have a Swiss consultant, a former chef, who is familiar with this business. He and some others should make the business even better. “If we want to survive, we can’t carry on in the same style.
family and I are fine, and this applies also to my staff, of course.” Otto says that to organize and control the staff is his most difficult task, and takes about 70 per cent of his time, attention and energy. He confesses that sacking employees is particularly hard for him. “Unfortunately, some of my old workers just couldn’t adapt, despite all my explanations. So, with a heavy heart, I had no choice but to sacrifice them, even some who were with me for 20 years,” Otto says. A constant challenge for Otto is to find good cooks. “In this city of around 10 million people,” he says, “there are dozens of Italian restaurants but only a few German establishments, so the number of chefs with knowledge of German food is minimal. “Many Thais know how to cook pizza or pasta, but to find one with knowledge of German cooking is not easy as this cuisine involves a lot of skill and preparation,” says Otto. Otto is always mindful of the competition. “There are too many restaurants in Bangkok,” he says, “and too many hotels, taxis, massage shops and spas. Whoever is not really good at their business will have a hard time. I believe at least one or two restaurants or massage shops go bankrupt every day. They open and close, the competition is very strong. “If you work from the heart you can survive, but if you don’t care or say “mai pen rai” (“it doesn’t matter”) then you are out. Incidentally, these are the three Thai words I dislike the most.
We have to adapt to the situation and the competition. Now we are in the process of adapting.” “The most popular products are our home-made breads of different styles, made according to old recipes and methods from 40 or 50 years ago. Our sausages are also produced according to old German recipes. So we can’t use ingredients like soya powder. All ingredients are imported, including the flour for the breads. “Our prices might be slightly higher than our competitors because of the imports, but we have many customers who will pay more for our sausages, because for them quality comes first. We could make cheap sausages that contain lots of chemicals, but we want to make real German sausages. “Because I am not young anymore, I don’t want to expand to open new restaurants. I once tried to open a restaurant in Pattaya, but it was difficult to control. It gave me more headaches and hard work, so I closed it down. I am happy as long as my
Heart of the community Over the years Otto has built a loyal following of German customers who return time and again with their families, Thai partners, friends, and often with visitors from overseas. He reckons that some 10,000 German people live officially in Thailand and, aside from the Goethe Institute on Sathorn Soi 1, says there are no German clubs or associations in Bangkok for Germans to come together to eat, drink, sing or enjoy sports. So Bei Otto has become something of a home away from home. “When a guest comes into my restaurant I welcome them, take good care of them, listen to them and sometimes drink with them as well. Every day is different and interesting, and is nothing like sitting all day in a boring office with the same people around you. This is the great advantage of my profession.” Bei Otto, Sukhumvit Soi 20, Tel: 02 260 0869, www.beiotto.com
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GOURMET DINING OUT
Where to eat
Your ultimate dining companion
Recommended restaurants and bars Tapas Café •Bangkok’s first
Spanish cuisine
authentic Spanish Tapas restaurant is comfortable and lively and busy every night. Every dish on the menu has its own unique and delicious flavors – Embutidos Mixtos (A selection of Spanish ham and sausages); Gambas al Ajillo (Prawns in spicy garlic sauce); Chiperones Plancha (Grilled baby squid). Simply close your eyes and pick dishes at random; with tastes this good, you can’t go wrong. Daily lunch specials featuring three selections of Tapas are priced at B220++. And daily from 11am - 7pm sangria is two-for-one and all Tapas is buy-two-get-one-free.
Basil •This restaurant has
a modern interior, but the décor is still unmistakably Thai. There are several private rooms, making it good for a business lunch or small private function. The menu is extensive, but emphasizes light and fresh items that are easy to eat. The menu indicates the level of spiciness of each dish. The impeccable service and pleasant surroundings make this one of the best places on Sukhumvit Road for Thai food. On Sundays, Basil and its neighbouring restaurants participate in the Sheraton’s renowned Jazz Brunch Buffet. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asoke or MRT Sukhumvit) Tel: 02 649 8888
Patara •Patara is a well-managed Thai
Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS), Tel: 02 651 2947 www.tapasiarestaurants.com
Rioja •Enjoy a taste of
northern Spain at this cozy restaurant featuring authentic cuisine from Rioja province. The gazpacho, a cold pureed vegetable soup, is perfect for Bangkok’s hot and humid weather. Other delights include imported Spanish ham and some great seafood. The set lunches are great bargains. A large variety of Spanish wines are available and demonstrate why wines from the Iberian Peninsula are often a bargain. Ploenchit Rd, Central department store side, (adjacent to BTS Chidlom), Tel 02 251 5761 www.riojath.com
Spanish on 4 •This sister branch of
Thai cuisine
restaurant with a menu of delicious Thai dishes done in a contemporary style. The restaurant, the Bangkok outlet of a worldwide chain operated by S&P of Thailand, is modern, relatively small and blessed with lots of onsite parking. The spices, flavours and aromas are unmistakably Thai, but the food is unique without going overboard. Salient examples include the Slices of Raw Tuna in a Lime and Lemongrass Vinaigrette, and Braised New Zealand Lamb in Massaman Curry. 375 Soi Thonglor 19, Sukhumvit 55, Tel: 02 185 2960 www.patarathailand.com
Benjarong •The flagship restaurant
the ever popular Tapas Cafe (Sukhumvit Soi 11) is a great place to enjoy lunch or dinner with friends or a loved one. The menu offers a wide range of Spanish Tapas, imported hams and cheeses, as well as regional specials. The restaurant is modern and airy with a busy informal atmosphere and attracts a diverse cosmopolitan crowd. Enjoy all-you-can-eat Tapas every Sat -Sun (11am - 7pm) for B495++.
of the flagship hotel in the Thai owned Dusit chain. This place has got to be good and it doesn’t disappoint. The interior is substantial with subdued lighting, heavy chairs and carpeting - definitely not a place for singlets and flip-flops. A large window looks out at a waterfall with outdoor seating surrounding it. The menu consists primarily of Royal Thai cuisine dishes, although less august items are also available. The wine list is excellent and the service impeccable.
78 Silom Soi 4. Opposite Soi Convent (BTS Saladaeng), Tel: 02 632 9955. www.tapascafebangkok.com.
Dusit Thani Hotel, Junction Silom and Rama IV Rds, (BTS Saladaeng or MRT Silom),Tel: 02 200 9000
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American cuisine
Mexican cuisine Hard Rock Café •This international icon needs
no introduction to anyone. From opening until 10pm, the Bangkok version is a restaurant serving casual American food while lots of good music emits from the sound system, and an attached retail shop does a booming business selling Hard Rock memorabilia. But after 10pm, HRC morphs into a different animal. Patrons under 20 have to leave, live music comes on stage and the place begins to rock. Always popular with Siam Square regulars and tourists from all over the world, this is one of those places everyone has to visit at least once. Siam Square, Soi 11, (BTS Siam) Tel: 02 251 0792 www.hardrockcafe.co.th
Señor Pico’s •Tacos, enchiladas,
burritos and many other Mexican goodies provide the fuel for a fun night out at this popular restaurant at the Rembrandt Hotel and Towers. The atmosphere here is convivial, and drinking margaritas, having a good time, and dancing to the live Latin music is as much a part of the experience as eating. Not to miss are the appetizers Bolas De Queso Con Chiles (B240++) and Pinchos De Camarones (B290++). For mains, the Burritos at Senor Pico are always good, and we really like the Espetadas (skewers), which come with garlic potatoes and chopped zucchini with cream. Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS Asoke or MRT Sukhumvit), Tel: 02 261 7100
Coyote Bangkok²
Roadhouse Barbecue •Barbecued food from
the American south is a great antidote for the negative impression created by the pap served by American fast food chains. For excellent BBQ ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, hickory smoked beef brisket, and a lot more, try this place. There is a large exhibition kitchen, featuring an open flame BBQ and two wood smokers. Up on the third floor, you can watch sports on big screen TVs, play billiards or throw darts. Lots of fun and loads of good eats. Junction of Surawongse and Rama IV Rds (MRT Silom or BTS Saladaeng) www.roadhousebarbecue.com
Home Run Bar & Grill •The baseball-themed
Home Run Bar & Grill really hits the ball out of the park with its high-quality American food and very friendly service. You can sink beers, grab some eats, shoot some pool, and catch live American sports at the ground-floor bar. Alternatively head upstairs to sit in comfy leather seats and enjoy your food at dining tables topped with white tablecloths. The burgers (ranging B249++ – B359++) are all made from long-grain fed Angus cattle and the quality shines through in every tasty bite. Another highlight is the 300gr Home Run Wagyu Rib-Eye Steak (B1,399++), a meaty monster served with fresh veggies and a choice of Raddish mashed potatoes or spiced jacket fries. 253/2 Soi Sukhumvit 31, North Klongton, Wattana, Tel: 02 258 6250 email: ram@homerunbangkok.com www.homerunbangkok.com
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equila, Margaritas and Mexican food are what this place is all about. The tequila collection is the largest in Thailand and over 75 different margaritas are served. The menu is diverse and not only possesses the requisite Tacos, Enchiladas, and Burritos, but also more elaborate items like Empanadas Carnitas - cornmeal pastries stuffed with spicy pork and a roasted tomato salsa. Although popular at lunch, the Coyote really howls in the evening when the after work crowd stumbles in for margaritas and a bite to eat. The best news is that there are now two branches – one located on Convent road, and one near the entrance of Sukhumvit Soi 33. Coyote on Convent: Convent Road, about 100m from Silom Road, (BTS Saladaeng) Open daily 11.00 - 01.00 Tel. 02 631 2325 www.coyoteonconvent.com Ladies Night on Wednesday, 6-8pm and Saturday 10-midnight. Coyote Sukhumvit: near the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phromphong) Open daily 11.00-01.00 Tel. 02 662 3838 www.coyotebangkok.com. Ladies Night on Thursday, 6-8pm.
Tacos & Salsa •Starting out in 2008 as a
small eatery with just four tables, this restaurant fast gained a glowing reputation and had to relocate to a larger premises to meet demand. Boasting full bar service, indoor and alfresco dining, an extensive menu, and spaces to learn more about Latin American / Hispanic culture (music, movies, photography, literature etc.) the restaurant perfectly captures the essence of the expression “Mi casa es tu casa” (my home is yours). Tacos & Salsa, 422 Sukhumvit Rd, Tel: 081 381 5469 www.tacosandsalsa.com
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GOURMET DINING OUT
French cuisine
Indian cuisine
Le Normandie •The doyen of Bangkok’s hotel restaurants, Le Normandie has
been serving fine French food to royalty, tycoons and we ordinary folk since the 1950s. Elegant is the best way to describe the interior and there are great views of the Chao Phraya to boot. World famous chef Guy Martin is a consultant and what comes out of the kitchen reflects his standards. The wine list is wide ranging and features some of the world’s finest and most expensive wines. Jackets are required in the evening and children under 12 aren’t permitted. The Oriental Bangkok, (BTS Saphan Taksin, then take the hotel’s shuttle boat), Tel: 02 659 9000
Lyon •This French restaurant
keeps chugging along, fuelled by a group of regulars who continue returning to its homely comforts. Although a portion of the menu changes regularly, several signature dishes have remained for years. Favourites with many customers include Rabbit in white wine sauce, and mushrooms and frog legs sautéed with garlic and dry sherry. There is a walk-in wine cabinet where you can select your wine. The restaurant is located in a converted house with parking out front. Soi Ruam Rudee, 250m from Ploenchit Rd, (BTS Ploenchit), Tel: 02 253 8141
Paris Bangkok •French food lovers should definitely take the time to seek out
this hidden gem on Sala Daeng 1/1. Located in a wonderfully renovated town-house with a modern Asian design, it has a French chef with Michelin star experience in the kitchen and offers up a wide range of traditional French dishes with a touch of creative flair. Highlights include Warm salmon with potatoes and anchovies (B230++); Salmon and tuna ceviche with avocado and tomatoes (B380++); and Duck leg confit, new potatoes, parsley and garlic (B420++). There’s also an extensive selection of wines. 120 Soi Saladeang 1/1, Silom, Bangrak, Tel: 02 233 1990 email: dany@parisbangkok.com www.parisbangkok.com
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Bawarchi •Bawarchi first arrived
in Bangkok 13 years ago and now operates four restaurants here, as well as three in India. Its menu reflects the traditional Mughlai cuisine in North West India and the food on offer is as authentic as it gets. Skewered tandoori meats (king prawn, lamb, chicken) are a definite highlight, as are the curries – lovely and thick and bursting with flavour. Meals at Bawarchi’s flagship branch in Chidlom average at 700 – 1,000 baht per head and you really do get what you pay for. Bawarchi Chidlom, Intercontinental Hotel (President Tower Arcade) B-level, 973 Ploenchit Road, Tel: 02 656 0102-3. For a full menu see: www.bawarchiindian.com
Himali Cha Cha •Himali Cha Cha has long been
a popular choice for North Indian and Halal cuisine and now operates four branches in Bangkok. Each restaurant always draws a big crowd of diners looking to enjoy an authentic Moghul curry, and as all food is prepared with freshly ground spices and natural ingredients, they’re not disappointed. Meat from the specially designed tandoori oven is always delicious, too. For those who love their food spicy, try the Mutton Chutniwalla. There are four restaurants in Bangkok: Charoenkrung 47/1, Saphan Taksin BTS; Sukhumvit 31, Phrompong BTS; Soi Convent, Saladaeng BTS; Nana 3/5, Nana BTS. Deliveries also available
Rang Mahal •Ask a member of
the local Indian community which is the best Indian restaurant in Bangkok and the answer is invariably ‘Rang Mahal.’ The food is primarily from the Punjab with lots of items from the Tandoor oven, including always-popular tandoor chicken and a variety of Indian flat breads. The interior of the restaurant is lavish without coming across as ticky-tacky; the view from the hotel’s 26th floor is one of the best in the city and there is live Indian music to entertain in the evenings. Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday buffet brunch. Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 (BTS Asoke or MRT Sukhumvit), Tel: 02 261 7100
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FEATURE Chinatown
The dark side of Bangkok’s Chinatown
By Maxmilian Wechsler
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Working to a different set of rules, this ancient yet immensely wealthy area of the city is unrivalled in Thailand as the distribution point for all kinds of smuggled, counterfeit and pirated goods. It’s also home to countless shady deal-makers, half-hidden brothels, traditional pharmacies selling parts of endangered species and restaurants openly promoting foods shunned elsewhere
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GUIDEBOOKS would have us believe that Bangkok’s Chinatown is an exotic and slightly mysterious area packed with temples and gold shops, restaurants serving strange food, and bustling markets tucked down alleys overflowing with shops and stalls selling every imaginable type of merchandise. This is true, to a point. What these guidebooks invariably omit is that this relatively small enclave in the heart of old Bangkok has a dark side; Chinatown is also the country’s biggest and most notorious wholesale centre for smuggled, counterfeit and pirated goods, which find their way to markets right across Thailand. “Most of the illegal activities going on there are deeply rooted in a system that has been running smoothly, like a well-oiled engine, for decades,” said one law enforcement officer familiar with the area who spoke anonymously to the BigChilli. “This explains why there is such a tremendous quantity of smuggled, counterfeit and pirated goods available there. We are talking about merchandise coming in by the (ship) containerload,” the officer went on. “As a result, some people have become very rich, influential and powerful, which explains why these illegal activities continue to flourish. No one really wants to do anything to stop it, nor can they. Very few officials will even admit that this is going on,” he claimed.
Yaowarat Road is famous for its gold shops
“What’s more, drugs, prostitution and gambling are also rampant in Chinatown. This wouldn’t be noticeable to a casual visitor, but if you ask any cab or motorcycle taxi familiar with the area, they can help you find whatever you desire – if they trust you. “Chinatown operates on a system of well organized chaos, where all the participants benefit – whether they are smugglers, counterfeiters, merchants or corrupt officials. They are all bound together to help each other to make money. The customers are at the end of the chain. “In this respect, almost everyone in Bangkok knows that you can buy a wide variety of goods much cheaper in Chinatown than anywhere else. So the customers stream there by the thousands. They come from the provinces as well,” the officer said. In fact, they come in the tens of thousands, especially on Sundays, swarming in search of bargains. “The quantity of smuggled, counterfeit and pirated goods you can actually see – whether electronics, computer parts, tools, watches, toys, food items or whatever – is enormous, and so is the amount of cash changing hands. “No one can really even estimate how much this illegal trade generates, all tax free, of course, but what’s certain is that this grey economy deprives the country of billions of baht in tax revenues. Vendors sell all kinds of products on the sidewalks in Chinatown
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A busy market on Mahachak Road in Klong Thom
FEATURE CHINATOWN
Above and below: Klong Thom Center sells all kinds of consumer products
“It is not a secret that the merchants pay little or no taxes – there are no barcodes, receipts or any records with the goods bought and sold. They can declare whatever they want on tax forms, if they even bother to submit one at all,” said the officer. “Many merchants make millions of baht per month and pay only 20,000 baht in taxes – and I am talking from experience – while honest people working for a company with a salary of 30,000 a month pay every penny they owe in taxes. This is not fair.” Perhaps half joking, the officer suggested that agents from the Revenue Department or the Anti-Money Laundering Organization should stake out to banks in Chinatown on Monday morning and wait for merchants bringing paper bags. Many allegedly keep large amounts of cash stashed under their beds, he said. Not long ago I watched one distributor of various types of dangerous looking knives collect a stack of 1,000 baht notes from a retailer. After counting them, he just stuffed the notes into his handbag. I didn’t ask if he intended to pay tax on the transaction.
The Pahurat area of Chinatown is packed with shops selling a wide range of colourful fabrics and clothing
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A trip to Chinatown I HAVE been going to Chinatown for almost 40 years, and nothing much has really changed except that the volume and choice of smuggled, fake and pirated goods has increased enormously. The corrupt system that was put in place four decades ago remains intact. The traffic certainly hasn’t improved. It is worst on Sundays, as I recently found out. It’s usually easier to enter Chinatown than to get out, especially during late afternoon when almost all streets are clogged with motorists busy disregarding all traffic laws. Finding a cab or even a motorcycle taxi is no mean feat, and if you accomplish this they will probably ask a most unreasonable fare. This is exactly what happened to me several times during recent weeks. My suggestion is that visitors boycott both and walk to the MRT subway station near Hualampong railway station, where for as little as 15 baht it is possible to escape the chaos. Here’s another piece of advice for visitors: expect crowds, heat and confusion, and wear comfortable shoes. Also, be aware that some sellers can be very sensitive when someone takes photos of them or their business. I was standing on Yaowarat Road taking photos of a vendor selling colourful Chinese clothing on the footpath in front of a large shop selling traditional Chinese medicine, when a man came out of the shop and started shouting in English: “Mister, cannot take photo here.” He was joined by a woman who screamed: “You, you, no photo.” Wondering why they were so upset and suspecting that they must be up to something illegal, I asked a Thai friend to visit the shop later to have a look around. What she reported would outrage people from the World Wide Fund or the International Union for Conservation of Nature. The shop was selling medicines produced from endangered and protected animals, including tigers and rhinoceroses. Since there are many traditional Chinese medicine shops in this area, it’s a good guess that most or all sell these products. That’s not all. Almost every Chinese restaurant in the area sells shark’s fin soup, which even some restaurants in Hong Kong have stopped serving. But it seems that one prominent outlet in Bangkok’s Chinatown is unaware of the widespread condemnation of this dish by actually displaying shark fins and other parts of the animal in its front window, right on Yaowarat
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Road. A foreign tourist passing by couldn’t resist taking photos. A small bowl of the soup sells between 300 and 750 baht. Personally I find it hard to understand why anyone would pay so much money for such a tasteless dish, and several people I have talked to have said the same. Apparently those who order it want to impress their friends. I prefer a bowl of French onion for a tenth the cost, both for the taste and because it doesn’t sting my conscience. People with cameras aren’t welcome the market on Mahachak Road in Klong Thom either. Home to hundreds of stalls and shops, some situated inside a low-rise building, this market is notorious as a wholesaler of counterfeit watches, a trade that has been going on there for decades. Bundles of watches – mostly fashion with some fakes, smuggled or assembled locally – cover the walls of some shops, making one wonder who will buy them. After I took few shots in quick succession, a woman started to shout at me: “No photo, no photo” and within seconds she had mobilized other nearby sellers who had no qualms about pushing me out on the street.
The market in Klong Thom also sells electrical goods, hand tools, hardware, frames for spectacles and various household items. Thousands of remote control sets are on display, many showing well known brand names, for televisions, videos, air conditioners and other appliances.
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The market in Klong Thom also sells electrical goods, hand tools, hardware, frames for spectacles and various household items. Thousands of remote control sets are on display, many showing well known brand names, for televisions, videos, air conditioners and other appliances. The quantity is amazing. One lady was bringing basket after basket of remote sets wrapped in plastic into her shop. These sell for about 350 baht each with batteries. The lady said business is good as many people lost their remotes in the floods. She wouldn’t say where they were coming from, but claimed they are genuine. However, the law enforcement officer reckons that most of the remotes sold at Klong Thom are fakes or imitations smuggled from China. It’s easy to understand why business is brisk; some replacement remotes are hard to find, especially if the appliance is a few years old, and can be expensive. Having lost several during the flood myself, I bought an air-conditioner remote for 350 baht from the lady and it works well. When searching for the same, albeit legitimate remote, I had to go to the local brand name
head office because no one else in Bangkok had it, and was told it would cost 1,300 baht and take about two months to deliver from Malaysia. The market in Klong Thom is also a major supplier of so called “non-lethal” weapons, like spring-loaded switch-blade knives, machetes, steel retrievable buttons and knuckle dusters, all of which certainly can kill. Again, anyone browsing in one of these shops has to wonder who actually buys all the merchandise. (See “Selling trouble on the streets” in the February issue of the BigChilli). Next stop was at Saphan Lek Market, situated in a narrow lane about 200 meters long, where dozens of shops sell mainly smuggled goods. This is famous for video games, which are much cheaper than anywhere else in Bangkok, electronic goods, bootleg software, pirated VCDs and DVDs, cameras, camcorders, lenses, electrical appliances, gifts and shoes. The market also has several wholesale shops selling airsoft replica guns and accessories. The area is heavily congested with shoppers on Sundays, so it’s probably wise to wear sturdy old shoes because your feet will almost certainly be stepped on. While walking inside the narrow streets and alleys of Chinatown you might come across young girls with heavy make-up standing in front of low-rise buildings. These are brothels, and some are located just a few meters from bustling Yaowarat Road. As elsewhere in the city, there are also numerous spas, massage parlors and other businesses which serve as fronts for prostitution. Another well-known venue is the Klong Thom Centre, a huge market located, ironically enough, in the former headquarters
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Above: This shop opposite Klong Thom Center repairs and frames car number plates
of the Crime Suppression Division police. Here, hundreds of shops and stalls stock all kinds of mostly contraband consumer goods like toys, tools, low-cost electronics, vehicle parts, sex toys, counterfeit watches, perfumes, and yes, remote control sets. One section of the market selling pirated CDs, VCDs and DVDs must be the biggest of its kind in the world. On Fake perfumes a recent Sunday, it boasted no less than 118 stalls offering are sold openly in these goods, with 21 of them dealing exclusively in pornograKlong Thom Center phy. Both men and women pore over the porn without shame or embarrassment. In most stalls thousands upon thousands of covers of mostly Hollywood blockbusters are openly on display, with three or four selling for 100 baht. During weekdays the number of stalls drops down to about 70. This is where the pirate vendors from other parts of Bangkok go to buy their stocks of videos, which they sell on for around 100 baht apiece. Several shops also sell fake watches and perfumes of famous brands like Chanel and Gucci for 100 baht each. You can also purchase sex toys here, even though they are supposedly illegal. Opposite the market is one shop decorated with all types of car license plates – temporary red, military, for passenger cars, trucks, motorcycles and even for other countries. One person working there said they repair and make frames for the plates and definitely do not make fakes. This stretches the imagination, although I have to say most of the plates on display look quite genuine.
Thousands of pirated movies are sold at Klong Thom Center; (Right) One of the duplicating machines confiscated by the Department of Special Investigations
Another popular market in Chinatown called Ban Mo in Soi Thip Wari sells mainly electronic and audio devices, home appliances, toys and, of course, remote control sets. It’s also notorious as a distribution point for pornography. According to my source, vendors here make copies of porn at nearby machines. These machines can be easily bought at various places. They have 11 slots, one for the master DVD or VCD and the others for copies. The copying process takes only a few minutes, and four or five machines can be connected together. This explains why the pirated movies can be sold so cheaply. A short distance away is Phahurat Market, also known as Little India, which has many retailers of Indian descent. The narrow lanes contain hundreds of shops selling fabrics. There are also a number of fabrics wholesalers and importers in the area. Rumor has it that most of the fabrics are smuggled from abroad. The officer claimed that smuggling of fabrics in Chinatown has been rampant for years. Chinatown has a totally different ‘feel’ compared to the rest of Bangkok. Different rules and laws seem to apply here. You may not agree with what goes on in this vast grey, and in some instances distasteful, market, but a visit is certainly an interesting and enlightening experience. One last piece of advice: avoid Sundays!
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History of Chinatown MANY of the world’s major cities have districts or quarters known as Chinatown. Some of the biggest can be found in Buenos Aires, Casablanca, Havana, Johannesburg, Karachi, Lima, London, Melbourne, Milan, New York, Perth, San Francisco, Tokyo and Vancouver. Manila’s Chinatown, situated in Binondo, was established in 1594 and is considered the oldest in the world. Dubai’s Chinatown near the international airport is probably the newest. Chinatown in Bangkok is located in one of the oldest parts of the city, and was established when the founder of the Chakri Dynasty, King Rama I, decided to build his capital in the area now known as Rattanakosin on the east side of the Chao Phraya River in 1782. Chinese immigrants who originally settled on the present site of the Grand Palace were moved downriver when construction on the palace started the same year. Bangkok’s Chinatown covers about two square kilometers, and is basically the shape of a square bounded by Phadung Krung Kasem Canal to the east, the Ong Ang Canal to the west, Luang Road to the north and the Chao Phaya River to the south. Yaowarat Road is the main road and the centre of Chinatown. The construction of this and many other roads were ordered by King Rama V at the end of 1891. The path of the road is said to resemble a dragon’s curved body. Parallel to Yaowarat Road is Charoen Krung Road, which was Bangkok’s first paved road. Despite its relatively small size and population, Chinatown is unquestionably a primary centre of business in the city. Land prices around Yaowarat Road have always been the highest in the whole of Thailand due to the limited space, which is mostly owned by prominent Thai-Chinese families.
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Y O U R W H A T ’ S F O R
U L T I M A T E O N G U I D E M a r c h 1 2
What’s on pArt pPerformance pSport pFootball pMovies & Albums pBooks
Gangster rocker Hugo is bringing his sexy tunes to Bangkok. Page 82
Disney fun
Catch your favourite characters on ice Page 82
Greece girl
Olivia Newton John live in BKK Page 82
Tee time
The Charity Golf Classic returns Page 84 TheBigChilli 79
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WHAT’S ON THE ARTS
Exhibitions MAR 14 – APR 8 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY
INNOSENSE - A JOURNEY OF LOVE
BASED on the art/photo book of the same name by Nick Langat, this photo exhibition portrays a timeless journey of love through 48 countries around the world, from Argentina via Thailand to Vietnam, experienced by two young men. The photos are accompanied by poetry describing the mystery of the human soul in search of beauty and tenderness, discovering love on earth, ultimately facing death and thus reaching eternal love. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, Tel: 02 254 6040-6 www.sombatpermpoongallery.com
UNTIL APR 9 EAT ME RESTAURANT
MYTHOS AND MIME
THE latest solo exhibition of photographs by American expat Cameron Wolf features a series of playful-yet-poignant portraits of actors bringing to life the mythical creatures of the Himmapan. Wolf symbolically appropriates the duality of the sacred and ironic, accepted yet marginal, exposed yet hidden – paying tribute to the ancient but redefining myth at the end, and beginning, of a new age.
Eat Me restaurant is located next to the Carmelite Monastery, Convent Road (Sala Daeng Sky Train Station), Tel: 02 238 0931 Eatmerestaurant.com Open: Daily 3pm – 1am.
Garden Gallery, Neilson Hays Library, Open Mon - Sun 9.30am-6pm. Tel: 02 233 1731 www.neilsonhayslibrary.com www.BangkokPalette.com
CRAZILY GOOD!
919/1 The Silom Galleria, Silom Road, Soi 19, info@number1gallery.com numberonegallery.com Tel: 02 630 3381, 081 567 9671
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RETHINKING THE CANVAS
EXPERIMENTING literally within and beyond the wooden canvas frame, Bangkok-based artists Jaclyn Bain and Leilani Franklin-Apted departed from their brushes to “paint” on air by bending, hammering, twisting and stretching nails, wires and plastics into striking patterns and shapes.
MAR 15 – APR 21 NUMBER 1 GALLERY
EAST meets West in Sutee Kunavichayanont’s new series of vibrant paintings, sculptures and interactive installations which explore what happens when two cultures collide.
UNTIL MAR 25 NEILSON HAYS LIBRARY
MAR 29 – MAY 6 DOB HUALAMPHONG GALLERY
TALES FROM THE LAND OF PLATEAU PRASIT Wichaya presents drawings and sculptures inspired by his hometown in Esarn, Northeastern Thailand. His artworks explore how being brought up this rural area shaped him to become the person he is today. DOB Building 4F, 318 Rama 4 Road, Tel: 02 237 5592-4 www.dobthailand.com, Open: Tues – Sat, 10.30am – 7pm, Sun 9.30am-5.30pm (Closed on Mon)
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UNTIL MAR 31 BANYAN TREE BANGKOK
MARA
NON-profit arts organisation Wai Art and Banyan Tree Bangkok’s new series of exhibitions aimed at promoting young and up and coming artists in Thailand has launched with a collection of contemporary Buddhist paintings by Thanapon Junkasain. By drawing on traditional mythology, his works explore the concepts of right and wrong in society. For more info about Wai Art and its projects see: www.facebook.com/ pages/Wai-Art 21/100 South Sathorn Road Tel: 02 679 1200 www.banyantree.com
Q&A: KHUN PALUT MAROD
THE ARTIST BEHIND ‘THE SPIRIT OF WOMEN’ REVEALS THE SECRETS OF HIS WORK WHO ARE THE SUBJECTS OF YOUR PAINTINGS AND WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE THEM?
My mother, my wife and women around me. But I do not simply portray their portraits; I use their emotions and feelings of being women to create my own women in my works. DOES YOUR WORK CARRY A PARTICULAR MESSAGE?
VARIOUS DATES THE BRITISH CLUB, SILOM ROAD SOI 18
WATERCOLOUR WORKSHOPS
BRITISH artist Louise Truslow’s new series of watercolour workshops are suitable for beginners and people looking to refresh their skills. Workshops will be held on Mar 25, Apr 21, May 20, and June 9, priced B2,400 per day, including lunch and refreshments. For more info email: louise@louisetruslow.com
UNTIL MAR 31 PULLMAN BANGKOK KING POWER HOTEL (LOBBY)
IN SITU
FEATURING a series of traditional Thai paintings by Pakitsilp Varamissara, this exhibition presented by The Pullman Bangkok King Power and the Toot Yung Gallery is part of the La Fête French cultural festival. Inspired by the rich cultural heritage of Thailand, Pakitsilp works to reconcile tradition and modernity, most recently achieving a simplicity that borders on abstraction. Available for viewing daily from 9am - 8pm.
In my opinion, women tend to be closer to or more united with nature than men. This is probably the reason why women are perceived as “the softer” ones. Cultural Feminism and Ecofeminism also favor women’s characters: their generosity, gentleness as well as peacefulness. I like to portray women as guardian angels and carers for every family member - a role that adds beauty to the world. WHERE IN BANGKOK INSPIRES YOU MOST AND WHY?
Limoncello restaurant at Sukhumvit Soi 11 and The Secret Garden restaurant at Sathorn Soi 5. The natural atmosphere at both places inspires me to create my work. The Spirit of Women will be on display at Ardel’s Third Place Gallery From March 29 – April 29. Read more info below or visit www.ardelgallery.com
8/2 Rangnam Road, Thanon-Phayathai, Tel: 02 680 9999 www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com
MAR 29 – APR 29 ARDEL’S THIRD PLACE GALLERY
SPIRIT OF WOMEN
ARTIST and art instructor Palut Marod celebrates women and the diversity of their spirit with a series of abstract paintings, many featuring female sculptures. Sukhumvit 55, Thonglor Soi 10, Tel: 02 422 2092 www.ardelgallery.com Open: Tues – Sat, 10.30am – 7pm; Sun, 10.30am – 5.30pm (Closed on Mon)
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WHAT’S ON PERFORMANCE
10 hot choices Apr 4 and 5 Askra Theatre King Power
Hugo
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NEW York based ‘gangsta rocker’ Hugo Chulachak Chakrabongse, the first Thai artist to be signed by American rapper Jay-Z’s ‘Roc Nation’ label, will play his excellent cover of Jay Z’s ’99 Problems,’ and more singles from his international debut album, “Old Tyme Religion.’ Doors open both nights at 8pm.
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Tickets range B1,000 – 2,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com
Mar 15 - 17 Siam City Hotel
Hollywood Stars & Divas
KAMALA Sukosol, President of Siam Hotels & Resorts, will once again join her family on stage for their popular annual charity concert. Supported by the Prachin Songnow Big Band Orchestra, and featuring dancers from Aree School of Dance Arts, as well as special guest Dolchai Boonyaratavej, the show will include performances of modern and classical music with tributes to famous artists such as Judy Garland, Liza Minnelli, Amy Winehouse, and Edith Piaf. All proceeds go to the Thai Red Cross Society.
Tickets range B1,000 - 2,500 (B400 for students). Available at Siam City Hotel. Tel: 02 247 0123 www.siamhotels.com
Mar 23 BITEC
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Olivia Newton John
IT may be 34 years since Olivia Newton John burst on the international scene starring alongside John Travolta in the hit musical “Grease,” but even at 63 years of age she’s still lost none of her wow factor. With 14 albums and numerous hit singles to her name, she’s certainly not short of material, but it’s the Grease songs, we reckon, that are going to draw the biggest whoops of delight when she performs in Bangkok. Tickets range B1,500 - 6,000 from thaiticketmajor.com
Mar 21 Goethe Institute Auditorium
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A Chamber Concert for Flute, Cello and Piano D&M Music Studio presents a program of operatic arrangements and transcriptions for various combinations of flute, cello and piano. Program includes works by Friedrich Kleinknecht, Wagner, Mozart and more. Starts 8pm
Until Mar 29 Various locations
La Fete French Festival
LA Fete French Festival may be drawing to a close this month but there are still a few events to enjoy, including a French Film Festival at SF World Cinema at CentralWorld (March 9-18), an art exhibition called In Situ at the Pullman Bangkok King Power (see our Exhibitions section); and an exhibition by famous French photographer Jean-Marie Périer, who will present 60 original portraits of Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint-Laurent, Christian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood, and other fashion giants (March 29. 6pm. The esplanade of ZEN Department Store, CentralWorld). For more info and a full program see: www.lafete-bangkok.com
Tickets: B500 (Students B250) available at Robinson Piano in Siam Discovery Center 5th
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MAR 23 - 27 IMPACT ARENA
DISNEY ON ICE 2012 – “LET’S CELEBRATE!”
WORLDWIDE holidays and festivals are given the Disney treatment in this magical musical on ice. See over 50 new and classic Disney characters skating, singing, and dancing their way through Mardi gras, Hawaiian luau, Valentine’s Day, and many more international celebrations. One show will be held in English on March 24 at 11am. Tickets range B600 - 2,000 from thaiticketmajor.com
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10 APR 2 IMPACT ARENA, MUONG THONG THANI
EARTH, WIND & FIRE
LEGENDARY funk and R’n’B band EWF has sold over 90 million albums worldwide, earning them seventh place on the list of all-time best-selling American bands. Their catalogue of hits includes “September,” “After The Love Has Gone,” “Boogie Wonderland,” and “Fantasy” to name a few. Catch them as they perform in Bangkok as part of their Guiding Lights Tour 2012. Tickets range B2,000 - 4,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com
MAR 22 AND 28 HARD ROCK CAFE BANGKOK
APRIL 5 BITEC
TWO NIGHTS OF ROCK
ROCK music fans have two concerts to look forward to at Hard Rock Cafe this month. Soul singer songwriter Jayson Norris from New Zealand will perform live on stage on March 22 (8.30pm – 10pm. Tickets: B150 per person with a Campari cocktail). And on March 28, fans can catch ‘gangsta rocker’ Hugo a whole week before he plays at the Aksra theatre (9.30pm–10.45pm. Tickets: B250 per person with a pint of Singha draft). Siam Square Soi 11. Tel: 02 658 4090-3 www.hardrock.com/bangkok
TOGETHER FESTIVAL
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EVERYBODY will be shufflin’ in Bangkok when LMFAO take to the stage at the ‘Together Festival,’ along with other dance artists like Lil Jon, Afrojack, Steve Aoki, and more. The dance festival is being arranged by A.G. Productions and aims to attract around 15,000 partygoers from all different ethnic, economic and social spectrums. Starts 8pm. Ticket details will be posted soon on the BigChilli website.
MAR 16 AND 17 MAHIDOL UNIVERSITY SALAYA
TCHAIKOVSKY AND PRANGCHAROEN
ONE of Thailand’s most recognized young composers, Narong Prangcharoen, teams up with talented Thai saxophone artist Wisuwat Pruksavanich for the world premiere of Prangcharoen’s Concerto for Saxophone and Orchestra. Guest conductor Dariusz Mikulski returns to lead TPO, with a second half that features two Tchaikovsky favourites – Capriccio Italien and Sleeping Beauty. Starts Mar 16 at 7pm; Mar 17 at 4pm. Tickets: B500, B300 (Students B100) from www.music.mahidol.ac.th (for more concerts like this visit bangkokconcerts.org)
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WHAT’S ON OUTDOOR FUN
Sport MAR 17 – 23 PHRA NAKHON SI AYUTTHAYA STADIUM
WORLD THAI MARTIAL ARTS FESTIVAL MUAY Thai boxers from around the world arrive in Ayutthaya to pay respect to their teachers, and to pay homage to the legendary Muay Thai folk hero, Nai Khanom Tom. Highlights of the festival include a Muay Thai exhibition, performance, and tournament. As with all Thai festivals, expect to find lots of tasty food and interesting handicrafts on sale. For more info: tourismthailand.org
APR 22 KOH SAMUI
SAMUI TRIATHLON AND DUATHLON
THE Koh Samui Triathlon and Duathlon returns to the island in April to put international racers through their paces in the hot season sun. Entry for the Triathlon before Mar 31 is B6,000; after, B10,000. Entry for the Duathlon before Mar 31 is B2,500; after, B3,200. Register online at: www.triathlonsamui.com
PREMIER LEAGUE FIXTURES SUN 11 MARCH
Norwich v Wigan
MON 12 MARCH
Arsenal v Newcastle
SAT 17 MARCH
Aston Villa v Bolton Blackburn v Sunderland Everton v Arsenal Fulham v Swansea Man City v Chelsea Newcastle v Norwich QPR v Liverpool Tottenham v Stoke Wigan v West Brom Wolverhampton v Man Utd
SCHEDULED FOR MAR 10 FELIX RIVER KWAI RESORT AND SPA
THE AMARIN OUTDOOR UNLIMITED RIVER KWAI TROPHY INTERNATIONAL 2012 PART of the Amazing Thailand International Adventure Race Championships Series 2012, the seventh edition of this world-renowned race starts at the famous River Kwai Bridge and takes teams of two racers through an action packed course that includes running, kayaking, biking, swimming and mystery tests. As well as the racing, there’ll also be live traditional performances and a gala dinner. Around 150 teams from all over the world are expected to take part. For more info about the race and its various categories see: www.ama-events.com
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APR 1 – 7 CHIANG MAI GYMKHANA CLUB
MAR 9 THE ROYAL GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB
NOW in its 25th year, this popular tournament will once again see amateur cricket teams from Thailand and beyond arrive in Chiang Mai to compete for one of five tournament trophies. This accomodates a generally high class of cricket competing for the Sixes’ Cup and Shield, to a good average standard at Bowl and Plate level, and a ‘social cricketer’ standard in the Spoon competition.
THE 17th annual Father Joe Maier’s Human Development Foundation Charity Golf Classic, organized by Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar, will once again see golfers of all levels of talent taking to the course to help raise funds for the foundation. With a Noon Shotgun Start, the game is played to a Best two Ball Scramble within team format. Entry of B3,500 includes a buffet at Bourbon St.
SAN MIGUEL CHIANG MAI INTERNATIONAL CRICKET SIXES
For more info: www.chiangmaisixes.com
CHARITY GOLF CLASSIC
For more info: www.bourbonstbkk.com
SAT 24 MARCH
Arsenal v Aston Villa Bolton v Blackburn Chelsea v Tottenham Liverpool v Wigan Man Utd v Fulham Norwich v Wolverhampton Stoke v Man City Sunderland v QPR Swansea v Everton West Brom v Newcastle
SAT 31 MARCH
Aston Villa v Chelsea Blackburn v Man Utd Everton v West Brom Fulham v Norwich Man City v Sunderland Newcastle v Liverpool QPR v Arsenal Tottenham v Swansea Wigan v Stoke Wolverhampton v Bolton
SAT 7 APRIL
Arsenal v Man City Bolton v Fulham Chelsea v Wigan Liverpool v Aston Villa Man Utd v QPR Norwich v Everton Stoke v Wolverhampton Sunderland v Tottenham Swansea v Newcastle West Brom v Blackburn
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Read The BigChilli FREE Anywhere in the world
Tell your overseas friends and family
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WHAT’S ON sport
Football in focus
Soccer pundit Paul Hewitt examines what’s happening in the world of Thai football
Twin Qilins Rising Again BURIRAM PEA’s clean sweep of domestic trophies in 2011 certainly hasn’t gone unnoticed in Nonthaburi. Muangthong United, 2009 and 2010 champions, finished third this time round – fully 25 points behind PEA – and trophyless. But the self-styled ‘Manchester United of Thailand’ don’t intend to stay in Buriram’s shadow for another season. And they’re banking on a record-breaking sponsorship deal to help lift them back to the summit of Thai football. The deal in question is with construction giant Siam Cement Group (SCG) and is worth a massive 600 million baht over five years; 150 million will be injected in the first year alone. To put that figure into context, MTU’s claimed total budget for 2011 from all sponsors and investors was 90 million baht; this year they will be receiving nearly double that from just one of their sponsors. The deal also involves a minor name
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change: the club will henceforth be known as SCG Muangthong United. This aspect of the tie up did cause some disquiet among some of the Muangthong faithful, but many will think it a small price to pay if SCG’s money can get MTU back to trophy-winning ways. At the press conference at which the partnership was announced in midFebruary – entitled ‘Rising MTUTD’ – it was also confirmed that Muangthong will be building a new stadium. SCG, of course, will be heavily involved in the construction, firm details of which have yet to be announced. MTU’s present home, the Yamaha Stadium, was rather hurriedly thrown together in late 2009 and early 2010 and is rather basic in both design and construction. Certainly, it has been put to shame by the new i-Mobile Stadium over in Buriram (Newin’s Northeastern upstarts therefore beating MTU off the pitch as well as on
it!). The new arena will be built on land adjacent to the current stadium. Of course, as you will almost certainly know by now, it won’t be Robbie Fowler leading the second coming of Muangthong United. Fowler and the club parted company by mutual consent at the beginning of February. Fowler officially left in order to join the new PLS league in India. A decision that may have been greeted with relief in the corridors of power at Muangthong as it saved them the potentially awkward task of firing the man that they had signed in such a blaze of publicity. But was there more to the Liverpool legend’s departure than a mere desire for a big payday in India? He’s had little to say on his time in Thailand save this tweet: “The president and CEO of Mtutd know why I quit and it certainly was nothing to do with results.” Read into that what you will. In any case, Fowler has gone and in his place has come Slaviša Jokanovi. The 43-year-old Serbian played for Partizan Belgrade, Deportivo La Coruña and Chelsea amongst others. As a coach, he led Partizan to the domestic double in both 2008 and 2009. His appointment was confirmed on February 26. As René Desaeyere, Carlos Roberto, Henrique Calisto and now Robbie Fowler will testify, Muangthong like to fall out with their foreign coaches as much as they like to hire them. But if they are to knock Buriram from their perch then they need stability. Time will tell if lessons have been learnt from 2011’s humbling experiences.
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NEW SEASON IS HERE! So the 2012 TPL season will get underway on the weekend of March 17/18 just six weeks after the League Cup Final brought the torturous ‘2011’ campaign to an end. We’ve heard about the big changes at Muangthong United, but what about the other capital teams in the top flight? BEC Tero Sasana and Army United could well be the two strongest sides from Bangkok-proper. Tero have made some decent looking signings including Ekkaphan Intasen from Chonburi, and Cleiton Silva and Khaled Kharroubi from Osotspa-Saraburi. The Fire Dragons have also picked up Robert Procureur. The canny former Muangthong technical director from 2006-2011 will have a General Manager role at Tero. Furthermore, they’re boasting a budget of at least 100 million baht. Spent wisely and it could get them into the top three. Army United have also been busy in the transfer market and have brought in half a dozen experienced foreign players including German goalkeeper Bjorn Lindemann and former Championship and SPL player Danny Invincibile. The Greens have also signed Thai international striker Sarayoot Chaikamdee who will always guarantee goals, in the TPL at least. Thai Port may be on more of an even keel after a stormy 2011. The Port Authority have been injecting funds, players have been getting paid, and there are rumours of further investment from politician and
Bangkok Thonburi University president Chanchai Chairungrueng. However, Port can’t come close to the spending power of Muangthong, Tero or even Army United. And the potential for conflict between owners The Port Authority of Thailand and main investor Super Rich Co Ltd is still there. An undramatic season in mid-table would suit many in Khlong Toey. Bangkok Glass have been quiet in the transfer market at the time of writing. One big signing has been that of Teerathep ‘Leesaw’ Winothai from BEC Tero Sasana. Leesaw is a proven TPL performer but his signing isn’t a ‘gamechanger’ for BG and another season outside the top four seems likely. Police United should have enough to achieve another mid-table finish and in striker Leandro, signed from Army, they have a striker who found the net eighteen times in 2011. But the Cops may be affected by ongoing stadium issues. The severely flood-damaged Thammasat Stadium probably won’t be available again until halfway through the season. So the club is looking for a home as TPL chiefs rejected Police’s request to play all games in the first half of the season away from home. Another club on the move is TPL newcomers BBCU. The Pink Panthers groundshared with Army in 2011, but TPL regulations prohibit two teams in the same division from groundsharing. Plans to move to Air Force United’s Thupatemi Stadium or the Suphachalasai National Stadium fell through. Instead, the club
with about 300 regular fans will play their home games at the Rajamangala National Stadium, one of the biggest stadiums in Southeast Asia! It will be a bizarre atmosphere off the pitch, and on it the minnows will be glad to just avoid relegation. Exactly the same can be said for TOT. They stayed up on the final day last time around; it’s difficult to imagine them doing much better this year. Star striker Kone Muhammed has returned to Muangthong United; very little quality has come in the other way. TOT’s TPL time may finally be up in 2012. On the opening day of the season, March 17, Police are at ‘home’ to TTM (we don’t know where at the time of writing), Muangthong entertain BEC Tero Sasana, and Thai Port are away at Chonburi. Champions Buriram PEA, now known as Buriram United, host Chiang Rai United. The following day, Bangkok Glass are away at Wuachon United (a renamed Buriram F.C who may be playing in Songkhla – it’s a long story!), Army United welcome new boys Chainat to the Army Stadium and TOT are away at OsotspaSaraburi. And BBCU will play their first match at Rajamangala as ‘Isaan United’ – a renamed and relocated Sisaket F.C – visit. Plenty of Bangkok interest in Division 1, too. The second tier gets underway on the same weekend as the TPL. Air Force United, Bangkok F.C, Bangkok United, JW Rangsit and Rajpracha all hail from Bangkok or thereabouts. Of the quintet, Bangkok United are expected to be the strongest. They’ve made some excellent signings and have former Thai Port and Buriram F.C head coach Sasom Pobpraserd at the helm. The likes of Ratchaburi, Suphanburi, PTT Rayong and Siam Navy are all expected to be promotion contenders. See Paul’s website at www.clubwebsite.co.uk/koratfc
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WHAT’S ON SCREEN AND STEREO
Movies & music MAR 15 THRILLER
PREMIUM RUSH
DODGING speeding cars, crazed cabbies, open doors, and eight million cranky pedestrians is all in a day’s work for Wilee (Joseph Gordon-Levitt), the best of New York’s agile and aggressive bicycle messengers. But a guy who’s used to putting his life on the line is about to get more than even he is used to when a routine delivery turns into a life or death chase through the streets of Manhattan.
MAR 29 FANTASY
WRATH OF THE TITANS
A DECADE after his heroic defeat of the monstrous Kraken, Perseus (Sam Worthington) – the demigod son of Zeus (Liam Neeson) – is attempting to live a quieter life as a village fisherman and the sole parent to his 10-year-old son, Helius. But a struggle for supremacy is raging between the gods and the Titans, and the only hope of restoring order is if Perseus goes to war.
MAR 8 FANTASY
JOHN CARTER
MAR 22 SCI-FI
THE HUNGER GAMES
BASED on the book of the same name by Suzanne Collins, this movie tells the story of 16-year-old Katniss (Jennifer Lawrence), a talented hunter who is forced by the evil Capitol of the nation of Panem to take part in the Hunger Games, a nationally televised event in which “Tributes” must fight with one another until one survivor remains.
Movie screenings are subject to change. Keep up to date at movieseer.com
BASED on a classic novel by Edgar Rice Burroughs, this sweeping action-adventure tells the story of war-weary, former military captain John Carter (Taylor Kitsch), who is inexplicably transported to Mars where he becomes reluctantly embroiled in a conflict of epic proportions amongst the inhabitants of the planet, including Tars Tarkas (Willem Dafoe) and the captivating Princess Dejah Thoris (Lynn Collins). Carter rediscovers his humanity when he realizes that the survival of Barsoom and its people rests in his hands.
MEMORYLANE
NEW MUSIC MDNA: DELUXE EDITION
MADONNA
THE 53-year-old queen of pop shows no signs of slowing down with the release of her 12th studio album. The deluxe edition will feature 18 tracks, including the single “Give Me All Your Luvin’” (featuring Nicki Minaj and M.I.A.). (Release date: Mar 26)
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WRECKING BALL
BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN
‘THE Boss’ says his 17th studio album will be his angriest yet, covering topics such as economic justice, and will feature rock and roll influenced by hip-hop and Irish folk rhythms. The album will feature 11 tracks, including first single “We Take Care of Our Own.” (Release date: Mar 6)
SWEET SOUR
BAND OF SKULLS
PRODUCED by Ian Davenport (Supergrass, Badly Drawn Boy), the Southampton BluesGarage trio’s second album brings to mind Jack White’s Raconteurs, and is loud, fast, and exhilarating from start to finish. (On sale now)
TOPPING THE UK CHARTS MAR 1992
1. Right Said Fred – Deeply Dippy 2. Def Leppard – Let’s Get Rocked 3. Ce Ce Peniston – Finally (re-issue) 4. Vanessa Williams – Save The Best For Last 5. Mr Big – To Be With You 6. KLF – America: What Time Is Love 7. Guns ‘N’ Roses – November Rain 8. Annie Lennox – Why 9. Curtis Stigers – You’re All That Matters To Me 10. U2 – One
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WHAT’S ON BARGAINS GALORE
Tradeshows
Mar 3 – 11 IMPACT
Bangkok Wedding Show
PLANNING your big day? You’ll find wedding studio exhibits, wedding gowns, invitation cards, spa services, hotel and catering services, and much more here. Open each day 11am – 9pm. www.worldfair.co.th
Mar 14 – 18 BITEC
Thailand International Furniture Fair
10am – 10pm, Fri – Sun (and holidays) 10am – Midnight. www.homepro.co.th
Mar 22 – 25 QSNCC
Commart Thailand Summer Sale
ELECTRONIC products of all descriptions go on sale at reduced prices at this large tradeshow. Open each day 10am - 8pm. www.commartthailand.com
Mar 24 – Apr 1 BITEC
Furniture
EXPECT to find big discounts on furniture, interior furnishing Grand Sale YOU’LL find more than just products, and all related furniture on sale here. Other materials and parts. www.thailandfurniturefair.com product categories include clothing, wedding packages, jewelry, beauty products, Mar 15 – 18 electronic goods, and much QSNCC more. www.unionpan.com House Condo
Show
PLANNING on settling in Thailand? Visit this fair and you’ll find a wide range of condos, houses, and properties to choose from. www.housecondoshow.com
March 16 – 25 Impact,
Sports World Expo
HEAD to this showcase of Thailand’s sporting industry and you’ll find special discounts on local and international sporting equipment and accessories, as well as all sports related products and services. Open Mon – Thur, 11am – 10pm; Fri – Sun (and holidays), 10am – 11pm. www.impact.co.th
Mar 16 – 25 IMPACT
Homepro Expo
A ONE-stop-shop for innovative household products, featuring furniture and household accessories. Open Mon – Thur
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Mar 28 – Apr 8 IMPACT
Bangkok International Motor Show
Now in its 33rd year, this popular motor show returns with another showcase of new vehicles by top international car manufacturers. Open Mon – Fri 12pm – 10pm; Sat – Sun (and holidays) 11am – 10pm. www.grandprixgroup.com
Mar 29 – Apr 8 QSNCC
National Book Fair & Bangkok International Book Fair
Book lovers will be delighted to find a myriad of premium quality local and international books at the 40th National Book Fair and 10th Bangkok International Book Fair 2012, hosted by the Publishers and Booksellers Association of Thailand (PUBAT). Open each day 10am – 9pm. www.thailandbookfair.com
Mar 31 – Apr 1 IMPACT
Mar 30 – Apr 2 IMPACT
STATIONERY, office furniture, photocopiers, computers and much more goes on sale here. Open each day 10am – 7pm. www.oasfairs.com
INTERNATIONAL and local manufacturers/distributors of coffee, bakery and ice cream equipment gather to showcase their latest products to target buyers. Open Thurs – Fri 10.30am – 8pm, Sat – Sun 10am – 8pm. www.thailandcoffee. net, www.thailandbakery.net
Office Automation Stationery & IT Fairs
Mar 31 – Apr 1 IMPACT
BioBeauty & BioFit 2012
Asean’s international exhibition and conference on natural beauty products, fitness and wellness, is a good one stop shop for anyone working in, or interested in, these trades. www.biobeautyshow.com
Mar 30 – Apr 2 IMPACT
Thai Franchise & SME Expo
The 6th edition of Thailand’s largest franchise and SME business event gives franchisors/SME entrepreneurs the chance to meet over 40,000 investors/buyers from all regions of Thailand. Open Thurs – Fri 10.30am – 8pm; Sat – Sun 10am – 8pm. www.thaifranchisesme.com
Mar 30 – Apr 2 IMPACT
Travel Thailand Travel World 2012
Thailand Coffee, Bakery and Ice Cream 2012
Apr 4 – 8 IMPACT
Bangkok Summer Shopping 2012
This shopping extravaganza features big discounts on clothes, beauty products, gadgets, electronic goods, sportswear, toys, home décor, and much more. Open each day 11am – 9pm. www.mac-exhibition.com
The details: • Impact Convention Center, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Road, Banmai Subdistrict, Pakkred District, Nonthaburi. Tel: 02 833 4455 www. impact.co.th • BITEC, 88 Bangna-Trad Road (Km.1), Bangna, Bangkok. Tel: 02 749 3939 www.bitec.co.th • Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, 60 New Rachadapisek Road, Klongtoey, Bangkok. Tel: 02 229 3000 www.qsncc.co.th
If you’re planning a summer vacation, this is a great place to start. This huge tradeshow features great deals from airlines, hotels/resorts, and travel agents. Be warned though, it gets very busy. Open Thurs – Fri 10.30am – 8pm; Sat – Sun 10am – 8pm. www.thailandtravelshow.com
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Social ď ° Last month’s best events in pictures
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SOCIAL CHARITY EVENTBEST IN FOCUS LAST MONTH’S EVENTS
COINS ON SILOM Rotary Club of Bangkok South held its 14th Annual Coins on Silom on Friday 27 Jan 2012. Originally scheduled for 4 Nov 2011, the event was moved to the new date owing to the flood crisis in Bangkok. Despite the changes, sponsors remained loyal. And their support, together with street collections on the day, saw the club raise over B2 million for its charity projects.
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The Rotary Club of Bangkok South wishes to thank all of our sponsors and supporters of the 14th annual 3M Coins on Silom event, where over 2 million baht was raised for the Club’s charity projects.
Event Sponsor
Platinum Sponsors
Gold Sponsors
Silver Sponsors
Stand Sponsors Bangkok Patana School / Concept International Design Ltd / Emerald Fox Gourmet Wasabi Gerard Geraets / Heinz Knoke / Hirun Thurdnampetch and Family / Hong Kong Transpack Co., Ltd Jean-Marie Cattand / KIS International School / La Mer Original Design / Le Bouchon Restaurant Manpower Group / New Zealand Natural / Nitas and Associates Limited / Novatech Co., Ltd Peter Jager and Hélène Jager-Steiner / Pithan-Toyota / Plasto-Sein / Roadhouse BBQ Siam Anglo Alloy Co., Ltd / Sports Engineering and Recreation Asia Ltd / Trafalgar International Limited
We also wish to thank the thousands of people who donated on the street on the day of the event.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
MERCURE KRABI IN THE SPOTLIGHT
In a bid to promote tourism in Krabi, Mercure Krabi Deevana invited a group of Bangkok based journalists to stay at the hotel and experience the area’s natural beauty firsthand. The event was organized by Veeranat Limprasutr, Executive General Manager of Mercure Patong Phuket and Mercure Krabi Deevana, and Narongchai U-Thanang, Hotel Manager, in cooperation with Air Asia, ACCOR Asia Pacific, and Koh Phi Phi Tour and Sea Kayak at Mercure Krabi Deevana.
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Celebrate St. Patrick's Day @ The Dubliner Saturday 17th March An Irish Celebration To Remember!
Special Price for Guinness 180+Baht Discounted Prices On Your Favourite Irish Tipples
50% Discount on Your Favourite Irish Fayre - Potato Soup - Mini Fry - Irish Stew - Beef & Guinness Pie - Chicken Pate - Bacon & Cabbage - Apple Crumble - Apple Pie & Ice Cream
Quality & Quantity at its Best! ...Pure Irish...
440 Sukhumvit Road (Washington Square) ,Klongtan, Klongtoey, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel. 02 204 1841/2 Fax. 02 204 1843 www.dublinerbangkok.com Email: info@dublinerbangkok.com AD Big Chilli_March12.indd 28
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
ALOFT OPENS IN STYLE Aloft Bangkok – Sukhumvit 11 celebrated its grand opening with a party designed to reflect the brand’s chic and savvy accommodation experience. The Friday night fun kicked off in style with a mind-bending performance by a human beatbox, followed by dancers decked in LED lights. Techno music and free-flow cocktails then took the party late into the night. Special guest on the night was Brian McGuiness, Senior Vice President of Starwood’s Specialty Select Brands, who had flown into Bangkok specially to open the hotel.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
RED CARPET AT PULLMAN Thailand Tatler launched its 2012 Society and Expat Society Magazines with a red carpet theme-party at the Infinity Ballroom of Pullman Bangkok King Power. The highlight of the night was a fashion show by Fendi, Kenzo and Pucci.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
RIVERSIDE REVELRY AT ASIATIQUE Thailand’s famous trend-setter Pa’Ted Yutthana Boonaom joined forces with celebrity chef Ian Pongtawach Chalermkittichai and leading architect Duangrit Bunnag to arrange ‘Sangsom MOVEaBar,’ a pop-up bar and bistro hosted by Thai Beverage Public Company at its Asiatique shopping complex on the banks of the Chao Phrya River. Tasty food, chilled drinks, and a live performance by Tattoo Color ensured all guests had a great night.
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Chandon’s sparkling arrival Diageo Moet Hennessy (Thailand) and Wine Loft held a ‘Talk of the Town Party’ at Wine Loft’s branch on Soi Lang Suan to celebrate the Thailand debut of Domaine Chandon’s finest sparkling wines. Made with the same grape varieties used in Champagne and aged in their bottles for a minimum of 18 months, the sparkling wines are among the finest available on the market. Introduced on the night to a large crowd of VIPs and celebrity guests, the wines are now available to buy at Wine Loft branches in Lang Suan, Sukhumvit 55 and Sukhumvit 31.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
BONJOUR L’AMOUR The Bangkok Young Professionals (BYP) networking group gathered at Bonjour French Restaurant in Ekkamai to celebrate February, the month of love, with a fun-packed function called Bonjour L’amour. Held in partnership with Bangkok Matching, the event featured dating games, a live performance by Kristen Evelyn Rossi and Jinny Nilkham, a funky set by DJ Esquire, and free-flow Billabong wines, Federbrau beers, and Stoli Vodka.
TATA’S CHARITY SUCCESS Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok celebrated the success of Tata Young’s ‘Amazing Phuket Benefit Concert Series#3,’ which raised B250,000 for flood victims, by hosting a special event for the pop diva in which she presented the money to Phuket Governor Khun Tri Akradecha.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
Cocktails in Ladprao The Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, formerly Sofitel Centara Grand, celebrated its re-launch after rebranding with a cocktail party in its Vibhavadee Ballroom. In anticipation of the rebranding, which follows an amicable dissolving of the long-term partnership between Centara and Accor, the hotel was given a complete refurbishment. At the party guests were given a chance to see the new rooms and facilities. The hotel also collected donations for the Chaipattana Foundation.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
AMERICAN FUN AT LEAPFROG The American Chamber of Commerce’s Young Professionals Club was out in force for the February edition of its popular networking party. The event was held at the trendy Leapfrog restaurant at Ramada Encore Bangkok, where over 200 members turned up to enjoy swapping details while helping themselves to plenty of tapas and free-flow cocktails, beer and wine. For more info about the restaurant see: www.leapfrogbkk.com
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GOURMET GATHERING AT ARTUR
PS. I love wine, by Patsima and Supicha, welcomed the Year of the Dragon at Artur restaurant with a special wine dinner featuring the restaurant’s renowned gourmet cuisine paired with a selection of fine wines from Comptoir Francais Du Vin Co., Ltd. Adding to the atmosphere was a mesmerizing performance by opera singer Ms. Organ Prawang.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
THE TASTE OF PINOT NOIR Wine Cellar on Sukhumvit 31 shifted its focus to pinot noirs for the February edition of its popular monthly wine tastings. Among the offerings were light and subtle pinots from Switzerland, and full bodied varieties from New Zealand and Oregon. Guests also enjoyed a tasty range of snacks provided by Gourmet House. Wine Cellar’s wine tastings are held the first Wednesday of each month at 6.30pm. For more info see: www.winecellarbkk.com.
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ROSÉ DE L’AMOUR BY MOËT & CHANDON Love was certainly in the air last month when Moët & Chandon hosted a flower workshop and romantic dinner entitled “Rosé de L’amour … because I love you,” at The Bar and The Restaurant, Sukhumvit 24. Inspired by Moët & Chandon Rosé Impérial, and featuring an exquisite five-course dinner by Chef Olivier Daniel, the event was attended by celebrity couples Khun Kornkanok Yongsakul and Khun Ronnarit Tangkarawakul; Khun Krirkphol Masayavanich and Khun Natalie Chearavanont; Khun Wannaporn and Khun AtichaiPoshyanond; as well as the management team of Diageo Moët Hennessy, and a large group of VIP guests and media. For more info about the restaurant see: www.thebarandtherestaurant.com.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
CUBA SAYS THANKS
The Cuban Embassy thanked all other diplomatic missions and embassies in Thailand for their support over the past year by hosting a “Cuban Night Thank You Party” in the Rembrandt Hotel & Tower’s ballroom. The event featured the best of Cuban culture with authentic food, live music, specialty drinks and dance. Joining the party were H.E. Michelangelo Pipan, Ambassador of Italy; Dr. Jorge TorresPereira, Ambassador of Portugal; H. E. Jorge Chen, Ambassador of the United Mexican States; H. E. Javier Andrés Becker Marshall, Ambassador of the Republic of Chile; H. E. Mr. Paulo Cesar Meira de Vasconcellos, Ambassador of the Federative Republic of Brazil; H.E. Jorge Castañeda, Ambassador of Peru; and many more VIP guests.
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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS
BCCT LIFE & STYLE GARDEN PARTY British Chamber of Commerce Thailand (BCCT) members and guests enjoyed an evening of exquisite jazz, live dance, food and drinks at the British Ambassador’s Residence.
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MOVERS & SHAKERS BANGKOK The most successful corporate charity networking event of the Eastern Seaboard arrived in Bangkok for the first time last month with a superb event at the R-Bar of Renaissance Hotel. Around 180 guests, including almost 40 from the Eastern Seaboard, enjoyed making new contacts while enjoying freeflow drinks. The event was sponsored by luxury condominium developer Heights Holdings and featured an opening speech by Nigel Cornick, Director of Golden Land PLIC. The next Movers & Shakers event, sponsored by Tulip Group, will be held at St. Regis Hotel on March 27 (6.30pm – 9pm). For more info: www.moversshakerscharity.com
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FEATURE MOTORING
BMW 730Li Engine type/cylinders/valves Acceleration 0-100km/h (sec) Top speed (km/h) Average consumption (km/l) Luggage capacity (liters) Seat upholstery and trim
Price: 7,299,000 baht In line / 6/ 4 8.5 sec 235 10.2 500 Leather Dakota
Make room for the 730Li, BMW’S big beauty By Maxmilian Wechsler
BMW’s 7 Series remains at the top of its game with its most luxury car yet
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THE two BMW slogans: “Sheer Driving Pleasure” and “The Ultimate Driving Machine” perfectly summarize my impressions of the car maker’s 7 Series 730Li model, assembled here in Thailand. After taking the car on a three-day test drive, putting it through its paces on both Bangkok and upcountry roads, I found the car’s handling, performance, comfort, and safety almost flawless – an opinion that was shared by Nina Hastings
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and Adam Purcell from The BigChilli who joined me for part of the testing. Introduced by BMW in 1977, the 7 Series has maintained a technological and innovative edge over the company’s competitors ever since. Today it is the car of choice for ambassadors, politicians, business executives, company owners and other well-to-do people around the world who are looking for a luxury driving – or passenger – experience.
The equipment and technology embedded in this vehicle make it one of the most advanced cars available, and if you can afford it, worth every baht – that’s 7,299,000 to be exact. Most ‘innovative’ cars are packed with useless, hard to use gadgets and countless confusing switches and buttons, but not the 7 Series. An onboard iDrive computer system integrates most of the car’s features into a central console. In this
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particular model the iDrive is installed not only in the front console but also in the rear for the convenience of passengers there. I found that an added benefit for the driver of the 730Li was the special treatment from car park attendants and security guards. In one car park which was already full, the attendants made a point of finding a prominent spot for us right at the entrance to an office building. Few other brands would get a slot like that. Staff at one hotel allowed us to park on the ramp reserved for VIP guests and their security staff. My colleagues and I liked everything about this car, from the silver cashmere exterior to the brown interior, which is a nice combination by the way. It was a delight to play with the doors, for which the actual closing action is automatic. All the seats are electronically adjustable and fit the body like they were custom-made. Sit in the rear and you even get your own TV monitors and laptop tables, resembling those in the business class section of an airplane.
The audio system is excellent and so is the TV reception and quality of the picture, without doubt the best I have ever seen in any car. The passengers in the rear can watch TV or DVD movies uninterrupted, while in the front seat, for safety reasons, that’s only possible when the car is stationary. When moving, the video automatically shuts off, leaving only the sound on. In past reviews I have tried to avoid boring readers with too many technical details, but for this car I will make an exception because the car is packed with innovative features. Highlights include: dynamic damper control, integral active steering, dynamic driving control (with modes Normal, Sport, Sport+ and Comfort), adaptive headlights, rain sensor and automatic driving lights control, headlight beam throw control, exterior mirror with anti-glare, comfort access, cruise control, DVD changer for 6 DVDs, internal hard drive, rear-view camera, electric glass roof, side and rear window roller sunblind, and rear camera. As for safety features, these include:
airbags for driver and front passenger, head airbags front and rear, side airbags for driver and front passenger, side impact protection, active headrest front, 3-point seat belts, crash censor, antilock breaking system, including break assist, dynamic stability control, including ASC+T, 18 inch runflat tires and electronic vehicle immobilizer. The sheer size of the car – 5.212m in length, 1.902m in width and 1.478m in height – is already a guarantee you are protected on impact. The whole 7 Series experience left me without much to criticize, not even the price, because this is compensated for with prestige and other perks. Mind you, the car would cost much more if it were imported. There are, however, a few drawbacks which are unavoidable in such a large vehicle. For instance, you can’t easily grab documents or other items left on the back seat from the driver’s
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FEATURE MOTORING
“From outside the car looks huge, and it’s bold, strong design hints at presidential grace. It’s the kind of car you’d expect an important person to drive – a dominant looking machine for a dominant personality” seat; they are simply out of reach. If there’s no one back there to hand it over you have to stop the car and open the back door to retrieve the item. You must be extra careful when opening the quite large doors in order not to hit a passing car, motorcycle or pedestrian. If you drive up a multi-storey car park you must to be extra careful not to hit the wall when turning as the car is quite wide. Some of these turns are very tight, as can be seen from the scrape marks on the walls. This is good time to call in a favor from the attendant. Finally, I thought that if the 730Li were equipped with 19-or even 20-inch wheels it would improve the appearance. Nina, who spent time as both passenger and driver, gave a number of very positive impressions. “It’s a very comfortable, luxurious and prestigious car that makes anyone sitting in it – or seen sitting in it – feel impressed,” she said. “I believe a lot of business deals can be made without ever leaving the car! You have access to a table to rest your laptop, and the spacious leg area and the comfortable seats allow you to sit for hours. You can also adjust your seat at the back so that you can recline to sleep or relax, and it even turns into a massage chair!
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“Back seat passengers can have total privacy with the electric sun blinds that prevent people from looking in. “The size of the car can be a bit intimidating for people like me who are used to small cars, but once you get the hang of it, it’s a really smooth car to drive,” said Nina. “I view this car as very much a luxury vehicle, which can only be really appreciated if you have a driver so you can sit back and enjoy all the gadgets it comes with! But having said that, if you hire a driver for this ‘monster’ you would have to really trust his ability to maneuver it in small streets and roads without scratching it. Parking could also be a challenge,” she added. She also pointed out the cost when it comes time to pull the car into the petrol station. Adam, who scrutinized the car’s passenger space, had more praise for the 730Li: “I was impressed with the car’s size. From outside it looks huge, and it’s bold, strong design hints at presidential grace. It’s the kind of car you’d expect an important person to drive – a dominant looking machine for a dominant personality. “I loved the passenger seats in the rear. The leg room is vast, the seats are extremely comfortable, and I liked the ability to save my favorite seat position to the car’s onboard memory. One press of a button and your seat adjusts automatically to your preferred height and pitch. With lots of leg room, sitting in this vehicle is like kicking back on a very comfy couch. “The two personal TVs (one on the back of each front seat) are a boon for DVD junkies. The fact these screens operate independently of the screen in front is a neat feature that will keep parents of young kids happy – on a long trip you can put on a cartoon DVD to limit cries of: ‘Are we there yet?’ “The self-closing doors remove the need for ‘slamming,’ but the system takes
some getting used to. You have to push the door almost closed and hold it for a couple of seconds before the automatic door closer works. Not ideal if you want to close your door in a hurry. “Aside from the doors, convenience is king in this car. All buttons are placed exactly where they should be. Compartments open smoothly and close easily, and offer plenty of space for keeping belongings. The only thing this car lacks for ultimate convenience is a refrigerator – but maybe I’m just being too picky.” A senior sales representative of a local BMW dealership said that many important people are now changing from other brands and other BMW models to the 7 Series. “The technology of the 7 Series is much better than that of the MercedesBenz S Class. Right now BMW is No. 1,” he said, adding that well educated people in the 30-40 age range prefer BMW because they are keen on technology, while the over-60 bracket generally prefers Mercedes. “Some hotels in Thailand use the 7 Series with diesel engine because they are concerned about the fuel consumption, AOT Limousine service (at Suvarnabhumi Airport), for example. “The performance, responsiveness, handling and everything else in the car offers you the best. The acceleration is good, but when you step on the pedal there’s a short lag time before the car will respond, which is done on purpose. He said that among the available exterior colours black sapphire is the most popular, with near to 80 per cent of customers ordering it, while about 15 per cent ask for cashmere silver and five per cent for mineral white. The interior comes in beige and brown with the latter being the most popular. The representative said that people who buy 7 Series models often have chauffeurs during the week and on weekends they drive the car themselves. He remarked that in spite of its size,
the car is easy to drive because of the advanced technological features. Echoing Nina’s comments, he said that sometimes women don’t like the car’s long body at first but they soon get used to it. As for Adam’s comment about the refrigerator, the representative said that this is available in some 7 Series models, but most customers aren’t interested because it limits space in the boot. The representative noted that fuel mileage for the 730Li is much improved over earlier 7 Series models, and the car comes with a five-year or 100,000-kilometer warranty, whichever comes first. Special thanks goes to the management of Siam Kempinski Hotel in Bangkok for allowing The BigChilli to photograph the car in front of the hotel.
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Travel
p Deals and news from Thailand’s hottest destinations
The new Black Mountain Waterpark makes a splash in Hua Hin. Page 122.
Mate’s Rates
Friends or family visiting Bangkok? Let them know about these deals! Page 130
Hua Hin
Read more about the town’s best resorts and restaurants Page 122
Pattaya
A round up of hot news and deals from the Eastern Seaboard Page 126 TheBigChilli 119
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TRAVEL BANGKOK
Bangkok
and Beyond
Earth Hour Cocktail Competition and Party at amBar rooftop
AMBAR will celebrate Earth Hour on Mar 31 with the world’s first ever Earth Hour Cocktail Competition. Hosted in partnership with italasia, the competition invites would-be mixologists to send their original cocktail recipe representing the “Earth Hour” theme, and they might win a free vacation. To enter the competition, send your name, bar and the concept for your original Earth Hour drink recipe to: fbadmin. sukhumvit15@fourpoints.com. The top 10 entrants will be chosen and invited to join the Final on 31 March. The closing date for entries is Thursday, March 15. For more info: facebook.com/amBarBangkok
First International Samui Dining Festival
SIXTEEN of Koh Samui’s finest restaurants are joining forces this month to host the island’s first ever Fine International Dining Festival. Every day throughout the month each restaurant will offer a seven course fine dining menu. There will also be special one-night gala dinners and other gourmet events. Several guest chefs will be attending the event, such as Khun Nooror-Steppé, the co-owner of the Blue Elephant Group, who is in charge of the Opening Gala Dinner on March 1 at Nora Buri Resort Koh Samui; Thibault Chiumenti of the Reflexions Restaurant at Plaza Athénée Bangkok – A Royal Méridien Hotel, who will present a Gala Dinner on March 24 at Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa; and renowned chef Hervé Frerard, owner of the “Le Beaulieu” Restaurants in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, who will present a Gala Dinner at Beach Republic on March 28. For more info and a full list of participating restaurants: www.samuifinediningfestival.com
Asiatique, The Riverfront now open STAGE one of Thai Bev Company’s riverside night time shopping venue, Asiatique, is now open. Located on the banks of the Chaopraya River on Chareonkrung Road, Sois 72-76, and built to the concept of a ‘living museum,’ the complex features a large number of franchise restaurants and, once fully opened in April, will boast over 1,000 shops selling souvenirs, clothing, and decorative items, making it the largest waterfront-themed lifestyle night shopping venue in Asia. For more info: www.asiatiquethailand.com
Great deal for early birds at Bandara Samui
BANDARA Resort & Spa in Samui is offering special rates to anyone who makes a booking before March 31. Rates are B3,920 per Superior Room, B4,690 per Deluxe Room, and B7,000 per Villa. Rates are per night and include daily breakfast for two, free daily shuttle ride to Chaweng, and other benefits. The promotion is valid between Apr 1 and Oct 31. Quote ‘Early Bird’ when booking.
IN BRIEF
Tel: 077 245 795 email: rsvn@bandarasamui.com www.bandarasamui.com
Resort hotels on the block
TWO international hotels in two of Thailand’s most popular beach resorts have been put up for sale. The Courtyard by Marriott Phuket at Patong Beach and the Courtyard by Marriott Hua Hin in Cha-am have appointed CBRE to handle the sales. CBREhas also been appointed to handle the sale of the Hard Rock Café and Shop on Patong Beach.
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Good news for Thai tourism
Despite widespread flooding last year, Thailand recorded a significant increase in tourists in 2011, with visitor numbers totalling 17.1 million in the first 11 months of 2011 - an increase of 21.2%. The number of tourists from North-East Asia increased the most, with a 34.3% jump to 4.3 million arrivals.
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HUA HIN
Villa Maroc wins Boutique Awards ■ The Moroccan-inspired Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi won two gold trophies at the 2011 Thailand Boutique Awards, organized by KTC and Krungthep Turakij Newspaper. The luxury property beat off competition from over 355 hotels to come top in both the ‘Luxury Seaside Hotel for Thematic Idea & Culture’ and ‘The Most Popular Boutique Hotel Video Clip’ categories.
Golf and wine at Banyan Golf Club ■ BANYAN Golf Club Hua Hin will host a Golf & Wine Dinner on Mar 25, featuring an afternoon golf tournament (tee time at 12.30pm) and a five-course wine dinner at The Terrace Restaurant. B3,950 for golf and dinner; B2,100 for dinner only. Tel: 032 616 200 email: reservations@banyanthailand.com www.banyanthailand.com
Dining deals at Hilton Hua Hin
THERE are more dining deals than you can shake a wallet at this month at Hilton Hua Hin. Here are some of the highlights:
Black Mountain Waterpark opens with a splash ■ A NEW attraction called Black Mountain Waterpark has opened in Hua Hin offering both a water park and wakeboard park with state-of-theart facilities. Equipped with high quality equipment and operating to the highest safety standards, the Waterpark features a wave pool, lazy river, artificial beach, a 17 meter high tower with seven different slides, and more fun activities. Located next to the Waterpark, the Wakeboard Park features an 880 meter track with several jumps and obstacles, and provides fun for beginners and a challenge for seasoned riders. Black Mountain Waterpark is open 10am – 5pm. Special opening rates are B500 for adults, B250 for kids aged 5-12. Entry to the Wakeboard Park is B500 for two hour; B750 for four hours; and B1,000 for a full day. For more info: www.blackmountainwaterpark.com
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■ Every weekend and public holiday, the award-winning White Lotus Chinese restaurant offers all-you-caneat dim sum for B449 per person. ■ Lotus Sky Bar is offering three glasses of sparkling wines with three choices of tapas at B1,200 per person. ■ Every Wed, the beachfront Chay Had Restaurant is offering a 5-course dinner with a glass of wine for B1,550 per person.
Photography contest at Hyatt Regency ■ HYATT Regency Hua Hin is celebrating its fifth anniversary by holding a photography competition. To be in with a chance of winning, stay at the hotel’s The Barai Suite, take a picture, post it on facebook (www.facebook.com/TheBarai. Photocontest), and you might win a trip to Bali. Competition ends March 31. Tel: 032 511 234
■ Head to il Mercato Italian Trattoria on Wed and Fri and all-you-can-eat pizza is B599 per adult, including a no limit of pasta, and salad. On Thurs, the Taste of Siam Thai Buffet is B599 per adult. On Sat, an International Barbeque buffet is B999 per adult. ■ Hua Hin Brewing Company’s signature dishes of the month include Grilled pork spare ribs with smoked BBQ sauce served with bread dumplings and a cabbage salad at B340, and Grilled sea bass steak in a white wine sauce served with roasted pumpkins, rosemary and thyme at B480. For more info: www1.hilton.com
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TRAVEL
HUA HIN
Bangkok Governor in Hua Hin ■ BANGKOK Governor M.R. Sukhumbhand Paribatra visited Hua Hin last month to take part in the town’s inaugural Asian Mayors’ Executive Board Meeting. While in Hua Hin, M.R. Sukhumbhand stayed at Dusit Thani Hua Hin, where he was warmly greeted by the hotel’s Senior Assistant Manager, Andrew Burfoot.
Ibis opens in Hua Hin ■ IBIS has extended its property portfolio in Thailand and opened the ibis Hua Hin. Located on Khao Takiab beach, the contemporary hotel features 200 guestrooms, all-day-dining TASTE restaurant, and two meeting rooms. Special introductory room rates start at B1,080++ per Standard Room, and B1,580++ per Family Room. Rates are per night and valid until April 30. For more info, Tel: 02 659 2888, email: ibis.Erawan@accor.com www.ibishotel.com/thailand
Dune Hua Hin launches cool new menu
Accommodation deal at Cape Nidhra ■ CAPE Nidhra Hotel, Hua Hin is now offering rates starting at B6,500 per Sky Pool Suites per night, with a discount of B1,500 when staying between Sun and Thurs. email: reservations@capenidhra.com www.capenidhra.com
King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament to return in September ■ THE prestigious King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament will return to Hua Hin this year on Sept 12 – 16. Held to raise money for the conservation and welfare of Thailand’s elephant population, this fun event attracts players and spectators from all around the world. Last year’s event featured 12 teams and over 40 players, including German royals Prince Carl-Eugen Oettingen-Wallerstein, his wife Princess Anna and daughter Princess Joanna, along with members of the New Zealand All-Blacks rugby team. For more info: www.anantaraelephantpolo.com
■ IF the hot season sun is getting too much to handle you may want to check out the new ‘Cool Down’ menu being offered at Dune Hua Hin Hotel’s Dune Bar and Restaurant. Featuring lots of light and healthy eats, the menu has highlights such as Green apple and cashew nut salad; Thai pomelo salad with shrimp; Watermelon, rocket and feta salad; Seared Tuna sliders with Asian slaw and chili aioli; and the desserts such as Pineapple crumble with honey almond custard sauce served with passion fruit sorbet, and Cinnamon-Zest Banana pudding toffee sauce. Tel: 032 515 051-3 email: md@dunehuahin.com
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The Veranda Lodge Huahin
113 Soi Hua Hin 67, Petch Kasem Road, Hua Hin, Prachuab 77110, THAILAND Tel: +66 32 533678 Fax: +66 32 533679 Website: www.verandalodge.com , Email: huahin@verandalodge.com AD Veranda Lodge_Sep11.indd 1
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TRAVEL
PATTAYA
Pattaya International Music Festival
THE Pattaya International Music Festival will be held at Bali Hai Pier from March 16 – 18. Once again it will feature a series of free concerts by a range of local and international musicians. Shows will be held each day 6pm – midnight. For more info: www.tourismthailand.org
New budget hotel opens in Pattaya
BUDGET hotel operator ‘Tune’ has opened a new hotel in Pattaya. Developed by the Bangkok-based investment company Red Planet Hotels, Tune Hotel Pattaya is located on Pattaya Second Road just a short walk from the beach. Opening rates start at the very low price of B199 per room per night. The hotel is Tune’s second property in Thailand. Its first opened in Hat Yai in 2011. For more info: www.tunehotels.com
Pattaya Marriott offers new package deal UNTIL June 30, the beachfront Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa is offering special room rates starting at B3,599 per Deluxe room per night including buffet breakfast. ‘The Great Getaway’ promotion is valid for both Thai residents and holders of valid work permits.
Tel: 038 412 120 email: pattayamarriott@minornet.com Marriott.com/PYXMC
Hilton Pattaya staff join Columbia Trail Master 2012 TEAM members of Hilton Pattaya led by Mr. Harald Feurstein, General Manager (first from right, standing row) recently completed “Columbia Trail Master 2012”, the First Thailand Trail Running Championship at Kao Mai Keo, Pattaya. Hilton Pattaya Team also won the third and second runner-up trophies from the marathon. The winners were Khun Chonticha Satprasit, Assistant Spa Manager (first from right, sitting row) and Khun Phungporn Wingpad, Kid’s Club Attendant (first from left, sitting row).
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Accommodation deal at Garden Cliff GARDEN Cliff Resort & Spa, Pattaya is offering its first accommodation package of the year. Until the end of March, the ‘Sea Breeze Promotion’ is B5,999 for a two-nights’ stay in Sea View Deluxe Room inclusive of breakfast for two persons.
Tel: 038 259 333 www.gardencliffpattaya.com
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TRAVEL
PATTAYA
Centara Grand Resort & Residence launches in style
THE Tulip Group officially launched its new luxurious condo and hotel project called the Centara Grand Resort & Residence with a party at the property’s B200 million showroom. Rock bands, bikini models, free flowing drinks, a live set by DJ Nakadia, and a fireworks show were among the highlights of the glamorous occasion. Located on 20 rai of beachfront in Na Jomtien, the five-star hotel and residential property will feature three towers. One will be the Centara Grand Resort with 250 guestrooms, and the other towers will be the Centara Grande Residence featuring 283 apartment units. A major selling point of the project is that it will boast a communal area of over 20,000 square meters featuring pools, terraces, tennis courts and waterfalls. The Tulip Group’s sole agent is CB Richard Ellis.
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TRAVEL BANGKOK
s ’ e t a M s rate
Grande Centre Point Hotel & Residence Sukhumvit Terminal 21: Until March
amily f r o s d Frien kok? g n a B visiting now about k Let them e deals thes
31, this brand new hotel next to Terminal 21 Shopping Mall is offering opening rates starting at B3,100 per Superior Room per night (inclusive of breakfast for two). Tel: 02 681 9000 email: rsvn_terminal21@centrepoint.com www.grandecentrepointterminal21.com
Aloft Bangkok – Sukhumvit 11: The hotel’s ‘One Night in Bangkok’ package offers rates starting B2,811++ for a Chic room and B3,111++ for an Urban room including daily semi-lunch (for two persons), two daily cocktails, free entry to Bangkok’s trendiest clubs (Bed Supperclub and Q bar) and late check-out. Booking is available now until June 30 and the promotion is valid until the end of Oct. Quote APPKG5 when booking. Tel: 02 207 7000 email: reservations.aloftbkk@alofthotels.com www.aloftholtels.com/bangkoksukhumvit11
Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel: The hotel’s
‘City Weekend’ promotion offers 20% discount on standard room rates (includes breakfast for two) and/or 50% discount on the second night when booking before the end of March. Rates start B3,680++ per room per night. Promotion is valid until Dec 31. Tel: 02 650 8800 email: reservations.bangkok@lemeridien.com
Millennium Hilton Bangkok: A ‘Paradise Escapades’ promotion offers 20% discount on room rates and dining when booking before the end of March. Valid until Dec 31. Tel: 02 442 2000 www.hiltonworldwide.com
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Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok: Until March 31, this new hotel is
offering introductory rates ranging from B2,350 for a Superior room to B6,850 for an Executive Suite (includes breakfast for two). All rates are available for Thai residents and expatriates based in Thailand only. Tel: 02 212 3738 email: rsvnm@eastingrandsathorn.com www.eastingrandsathorn.com
Novotel Bangkok Platinum: Until June 30, this new hotel at Platinum Fashion Mall is offering introductory rates for its Superior Rooms starting at B3,300++ per room per night (inclusive of American buffet breakfast for two persons). Tel: 02 160 7111 email: H7272-RE@accor.com www.novotel.com
Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok: From Feb 15 – Apr 30, Four Seasons Hotels:
From April 13-16, the hotel’s Songkran package features a three-night-stay in a luxury room starting at B7,350 per night. Includes daily breakfast for two. Tel: 02 126 8866 www.fourseasons.com/bangkok
pay for two nights and get one free with the hotel’s ‘2+1 River Rejoice in Bangkok’ promotion. Rates start at B6,900++ per night for a Deluxe River View Room, and include an B800 spa voucher and late check out. Tel: 02 206 8788 email: reservations.slbk@shangri-la.com www.shangri-la.com/bangkok.
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CLASSIFIEDS
Tub Samet House, Rayong
For Rent Tub Samet, near Rayong, a beautiful twobedroom house with large living space, separate kitchen, balcony and private garden in private and secure compound with direct access to one of the most beautiful sandy beaches on the Gulf of Thailand. Only two hours’ drive from Bangkok. Only 20,000 baht per month. For more information email: siamdoll@gmail.com
For Sale Mooban Patara Private 3 Townhouse in a secure and quiet Mooban for sale. 2 floors, 3 bedroom, 3 bathroom plus study room. 39.9 t.w., with garden and garage with 2 parking space. The house comes with 2 air conditioner. Bangbuathong district (Nonthaburi). 2.9 million Baht.
Bang Saray condo
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Bang Saray condo, next to the beach, low-rise, large gardens, secure compound, two swimming pool and tennis courts. Ground oor, 2 A/C bedrooms and 2 bathrooms. Great community, perfect for families with children. 30,000 baht per month. For more information email: siamdoll@gmail.com
Ravi Sehgal Best Suits in Bangkok Ravi Sehgal is the best place in town to get your suits tailored. Bring this ad along to get your FREE shirt when you purchase a suit.
Catering Service Pink Honda Jazz VTEC, TOP, Year 2004, 1.5 Automatic, 2 Airbags, ABS, 1st class insurance, always serviced at Honda, low milage, good condition. Driven by woman only Baht 405,000
The Oyster thing is focused on bringing you the freshest oysters at your local favorite hangout or private events wherever the venue. Coming into our second year now we have collaborated with a handful of trendy restaurants around Bangkok with our pop-up oyster bar, and we also have weekly requests from our patrons to cater their private parties. Facebook:The Oyster Thing Contact: 087-503-6006 / 081-811-3080
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