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NO
15
TIMELESS
ISS UE
PHOTOGRAPHY Barbora Kmetkova
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Co-Founded by Megan Breukelman and Olivia Bossert Atlas (Print) ISSN 2056-5836 Atlas (Online) ISSN 2056-5844 Produced by Kwintus Publishing Ltd. The opinions expressed in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher. Although all material is checked for accuracy, no liability is assumed by the publisher for any losses due to the use of material in this magazine. Copyright Š. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form without prior written permission of Kwintus Publishing Ltd.
PHOTOGRAPHY Hayato Takahashi
PHOTOGRAPHY Tereza Janakova
ARTICLES
ASTORY TELLS US THEIR STORY
By Olivia Bossert Page 12-17
THE MODERN WOMAN’S TIMELESS WARDROBE
By Emma Lavelle Page 58-65
THE MEASURE OF A MOMENT: CLOCKMAKER ROSIE KIRK
By Rosa Furneaux Page 96-99
FASHION REVOLUTION
IT’S YOU
ANOTHER KIND OF WOMAN
SPROUT
ROMANTIC
MAGIC
QUEEN ALEXA
CLASSIC DARKNESS
I’VE GOT THE WORLD ON A STRING
By Barbora Kmetkova Page 18-25
By Hayato Takahashi Page 26-33 By Reka Liziczai Page 34-41
By Tereza Janakova Page 42-49 By Nicole Corbett Page 50-57 By Kiu Ka Yee Page 66-73
EDITORIALS
By Momo Chen Page 74-81
By Janina Fleckhaus Page 82-89
By Efimtcev N. Page 90-95
PHOTOGRAPHY Janina Fleckhaus
EDITOR IN CHIEF
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
ONLINE EDITOR
Olivia Bossert
Jessica Bailey
Jasmin Rauha
Slovakia / Russia / China / Germany / USA/ Australia / Hungary / UK
CONTRIBUTORS
Astory Barbora Kmetkova Hayato Takahashi Reka Liziczai
Tereza Janakova Nicole Corbett Emma Lavelle Scott W Mason Kiu Ka Yee
Momo Chen Janina Fleckhaus Efimtcev N. ` Rosie Kirk
D
ear Readers,
I was recently asked where I thought the future of fashion photography was going. That’s quite a tricky question to answer, because who actually knows? Photography is more accessible than ever before, yet the best of the best will always stand out. Moving image is becoming more and more essential to brands and magazines, and the demand for new, fresh, exciting imagery is higher than ever, thanks to the exponential growth of social media. People are reaching for film again, and we’re receiving more submissions in film than ever before. Is that because people are wanting to prove that they’re photography masters? Who knows. All I know is that I adore the quality of film. One thing that I think everyone always strives for, and always will? Timeless images. Timeless-ness (is that even a word?!) is the theme of this issue. That’s quite a tricky thing to tackle really, because everyone’s perception of what is timeless, and what isn’t, will be different. However, thanks to the submissions we received from photographers and creative teams from around the world, I think we’ve managed to put together an issue which is Timeless, but in varied and exciting way. I hope you’ll agree with me. Thank you all, as always, for taking the time to read our issues, to get inspired by what it is that we do, for sending us your work, for liking our photos, and for sticking with us! Enjoy The Timeless Issue. Love, Olivia
PHOTOGRAPHY Momo Chen
ARTICLE
ASTORY TELLS US THEIR STORY FROM UK
PHOTOGRAPHY Ian Lishman From Juice Images
Whether you’ve just finished your degree, or you’ve been working a 9-5 for 20 years, it’s never to late to think about starting your own business. We did it with Atlas, and Charlotte Ham has done it with her brand new designer label, Astory. Get inspired by this incredibly talented and ambitious young designer.
What were you like growing up? I grew up in a small village in Somerset, England. I have two sisters, and I was the shy one. Not to big myself up, but I have always been well behaved and never really got into trouble. I loved to play sports and being involved in teams during school. Art was also a strong subject of mine, I really enjoyed painting as a hobby. I grew up around a family building business, which I guess is why I have always been interested in architecture.
INTERVIEW Olivia Bossert
When did fashion first start to become interesting? I can’t remember a time when I wasn’t interested in clothes. Other than cutting up my jeans or adapting old dresses into new garments, the first real garment I made for myself was my prom dress in secondary school. Since then I set my studies on become a designer. When I was little I always had to choose my own outfits. I have been told I used to refuse to where trousers, even when it was cold outside. The solution was to where a skirt over them, which seemed to please both my mum and myself.
Did you always know you wanted to be a fashion designer? Well, when I was around 8 years old, like everybody else, I wanted to be a popstar, but I could never sing. Yes, I have always been an arty person. I loved to sew, cut up old clothes, and sketch. I guess some influence came from my mum who always used to make her own outfits which really inspired me.
What steps did you take towards make your dream a reality? As I knew what I wanted to do when I was young, I set my steps to get there in the best way possible. I studied BA (Hons) in Fashion Design at Falmouth University. I then moved to London to study an MA in Fashion Design at Kingston University. It wasn’t until my Masters degree when I found my signature with I C E by Astory. I call it the “premium sister” to Astory. These collections are influenced by
concept and are not always so wearable, but they are so fun to create. I can experiment loads with collaborations and materials. We receive a lot of interest with these kinds of collections. I decided to create Astory because I wanted the brand to be accessible to my customers, I wanted them to be able to afford them and wear them.
What has it been like starting a business? It has been a challenging experience. It really opens yours eyes up to how much there is to think about. You have to be very patient and not expect things to go as you has planned straight away. I’ve learnt a lot already. I still have so many things to achieve and advice to listen to. Astory is still very new, we still have lots of things to do to keep us on track, but it’s great to achieve new things. You have to be very dedicated to your dream, which I am and it really motivates me.
Where do you draw your inspiration? Architecture, whether it’s old or new. Anything in buildings can inspire me. I can look at a building and think it’s beautiful. I don’t just look at the aesthetics, I look into the concepts and structures too, which can really bring something new to fashion when researched in depth. On a previous collection I used a particular term that Architects use, ‘VOID’. When researched down to the core it proves to be extremely interesting: Reflections of light, shadows, colour. Your body and emotions and how they can react to a space within buildings. Everything small and large can inspire me. It’s the shapes and structures that I adore and I believe fashion and architecture complement each other really well.
ARTICLE Astory
PHOTOGRAPHY Ian Lishman From Juice Images
PHOTOGRAPHY Thang Le
ARTICLE Astory
Can you tell us more about Astory and what it symbolises? Astory is an online contemporary womenswear fashion brand from London. At Astory, we are motivated by creating affordable fashion, with contemporary design, without compromising on quality. All our garments are exclusive and currently hand-made in London. At Astory we are really inspired and motivated into giving our customers modern, on-trend, timeless fashion with love, attention and innovation. Our vision is to build a community, allow our customers to feel loved and aspire to our brand not just our products.
Where do you hope to take the brand next? We are hoping to run with Astory and are looking at stocking our garments within boutique stores so that our customers can touch and feel the clothes and try them on in person, rather than buying just online. We want to bring the concept of shopping back to life not just over the internet. Eventually, with time to come, we would like to be a platform for other start-up designers just like us. We would like to invite designers from different crafts to join our community.
Where can our readers stay up to date with you? Take a look at our website: www.astorylondon.com Follow us on social mediaFacebook : Astoryfashion Instagram: @Astoryfashion Pinterest: Astory London
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INTERVIEW Emma Lavelle
ARTICLE
THE MODERN WOMAN’S TIMELESS WARDROBE
Everyone needs a capsule wardrobe, even those of us who prefer an eclectic chaos of print and colour when they open their closet doors. Whether you’re a wannabe minimalist or simply need to refresh your basics, having a collection of simple staples in your wardrobe can make getting dressed in the morning that little bit easier. Think of a capsule wardrobe as a curation of contemporary classics that you can mix and match to create numerous different looks, rather than a monotonous monochrome wardrobe that you may tire of. It’s up to you whether you strip things back to just the basics or if you pad out your staples with an explosion of printed and colourful statement finds. Look to Instagram for inspiration, where a whole new tribe of women are championing well-crafted contemporary classics over blink-and-you’ll-miss-it trends. Leading this group of modern women, you’ll find Brittany Bathgate and Charlie May who invest in well-cut, often oversized garments that breathe a new lease of life into modern minimalism. So what are these magical wardrobe essentials that will instantly create a wardrobe filled with opportunities? Some may tell you to invest in an LBD and a crisp white shirt, but we’re thinking a little more outside the box. Here are our twelve contemporary wardrobe staples that will help you to achieve a modern timeless style.
ILLUSTRATIONS Scott W Mason
A perfectly fitted pair of jeans Every girl needs a pair of jeans in her life, regardless of her personal style. Perfect for those days when you just need to pull on something comfortable or when you want to cover up your legs, a pair of well-fitted jeans that compliment your body shape will instantly make you feel great. If you’re a dedicated advocate of a skinny fit then by all means go for it, but we are rejoicing over the return of a more relaxed silhouette. Cropped wide-legs, up-and-down straight legs and billowing flares have all made a resurgence recently, and are incredibly flattering fits. Your staple pair of jeans should fit well around the waist, regardless of what you eat for dinner, and should be purchased in a wash that you can wear on a day to day basis. Consider longevity and invest in a quality brand. Leave the bleached ripped variety on the sale rack.
A Striped Breton T-Shirt The striped Breton t-shirt has never really waned in popularity; enjoying a spike in trends in the Sixties, becoming ever present in the subsequent decades, and nowadays being an item that almost everyone you know owns. The beauty of this garment is its versatility. Go casual by teaming it with a pair of jeans, or slip on a pinafore dress over it to transform into a completely different look. You can channel your favourite Sixties icon, whether you prefer gamine Jean Seberg or screen siren Brigitte Bardot, without a hint of pastiche. A good striped t-shirt is instantly distinguishable from a poor imitation, so it is worth going for quality over quantity and purchasing one well-crafted top rather than several cheaper options. Stick to navy or black with white or cream stripes for a style that will complement the rest of your wardrobe.
A Denim Shirt You don’t need a white shirt, unless your office requires it. These days, a well-fitted denim chambray shirt will get much more usage. We love pairing denim with denim in contrasting washes and teaming your denim shirt with your jeans, but a stylish shirt will look just as great worn with a pair of tailored culottes or a pair of A-line shorts in summer. The key here is to not look like you’re in a Western film. Avoid any gimmicky details such as studs, rivets, frills or patches and opt for a clean-cut style that skims your figure without hugging it too tightly or billowing oversized. Don’t be scared of dressing up a denim shirt; with the right minimal jewellery and a pair of simple heels you could even wear it to work.
ARTICLE Timeless
A Pair Of Black Ankle Boots How does anyone survive the winter months without a pair of classic black ankle boots? Besides keeping your feet warm and dry, they are a stylish staple that you can wear day or night, and can even look great with bare legs. The style that you choose is up to you - Chelsea boots or lace-up’s, flats or heels - but opt for a style that you can dress up or down and get the most wear out of. Boots that are cut lower on your ankle work just as well with trousers as skirts, instantly doubling their wearability.
ARTICLE Timeless
An Everyday Cosy Jumper Knitwear doesn’t have to be a boring jumper that you pull on when the temperature plummets, ruining your outfit. There are plenty of knitwear brands out there that offer simple and stylish designs in high quality soft wools that you’ll want to wear every day. Choose the colour that suits you best and invest in a well-crafted (preferably hand-knitted) jumper that makes you feel just as stylish as it does cosy. Opt for slightly slouchy fits that look just as good layered over a dress or skirt as they do when worn with jeans.
A Linen/Cotton Dress That Can Be Dressed Up Or Down Natural materials are key to our entire list - you’ll find no polyester here - and linen and cotton rank highly as two fabrics to invest in. Rather than purchasing a traditional little black dress, consider what you are likely to want to wear in any season and for any occasion. A simple yet stylish linen or cotton dress in a neutral hue will prove to be your saviour on those days when you don’t know what to wear. Throw it on, add a couple of interchangeable accessories and see how you can style it for winter, summer, work or play. Opt for a style that flatters you and feels comfortable, such as a shirt dress, shift dress or long-sleeved design.
A Pair Of Comfortable Trainers Trainers no longer reside in the realm of sportswear. You can wear a simple pair (no neon pink Nikes for us, thanks!) to dress down an everyday dress or a pair of tailored culottes. Ever since trainers were spotted on the feet of everyone in the FROW at fashion week, they’ve become perfectly acceptable for everyday wear. Dress down a pair of tailored trousers with trainers and a simple white t-shirt, or add an edge to your favourite dress by teaming it with a pair of classic runners. Steer clear of pairing your trainers with anything that looks like actual sportswear and use them to challenge the rules of what you can and can’t wear together.
A Pinafore Dress The pinafore shows no sign of going anywhere, which is great for those of us that have embraced this versatile wardrobe staple. Combining the ease of a dress with the versatility of being able to style with an infinite amount of tops, a classic linen or denim pinafore dress will become one of your most beloved garments. Wear with bare legs and t-shirts in summer, then layer over woollen tights and thin roll-neck knits when the temperatures drop. We especially love the look of a slightly oversized dress that skims your figure, allowing for a flattering silhouette.
A Classic White T-Shirt You can’t go wrong with a simple white t-shirt, as long as you take care to invest in a high quality design in a natural fabric. Choosing the cut, colour and material is key, as it is important to opt for a style that is easy to wear and will stand up to repeated washes. Purchase from a quality brand and look for a style that sits just above your hips, avoiding cropped or baggy designs that may date. Thicker natural materials are best for longevity, as synthetic materials tend to bobble, fade or come apart at the seams over time. The perfect white t-shirt can be worn with a pair of jeans, culottes, A-line skirts or beneath a pinafore dress, making it one of the most versatile garments in your capsule wardrobe.
ARTICLE Timeless
A Silk Shirt Whether you need to instantly dress up an outfit or float around cool and serenely in summer, an ethereal silk shirt is an essential item for the modern woman’s timeless wardrobe. Add a punch of colour here, if you like, opting for a hue that you’ll get repeated wear out of and that will complement the rest of your wardrobe. Alternatively, choose a neutral shade that can form the basis of any outfit. Stay clear of synthetic fabrics and buy the real deal for a lightweight silky shirt that will keep you cool in summer.
A Pair Of Tailored Trousers Or Culottes You can’t go wrong with an easy-to-wear pair of tailored trousers or culottes that can be dressed up or down dependent on the occasion. Culottes are great for exposing a bit of skin in warmer temperatures and look great worn with sandals, heels or streamlined trainers. If you’d rather wear a longer style, pegleg trousers or loosely-tailored silhouettes are both extremely flattering. You may think that you won’t get that much wear out of a pair of trousers, but you’ll be surprised at the options of styling them for work, play or weekend wear.
A Pair Of Birkenstocks / Similar Style Sandals Trends may come and go, but the humble Birkenstock looks set to stick around as a modern style classic for a while longer. The beauty in these sandals is in their simplicity; there are no gimmicks that you may become bored of. On warm summer days or holidays, they are so easy to slip on and their supercomfortable soles ensure that your feet stay happy even if you’re walking around for long periods of time.
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Another Kind of WOMAN
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ARTICLE
THE MEASURE OF A MOMENT: CLOCKMAKER ROSIE KIRK
FROM United Kingdom
After graduating with a one-of-a-kind degree in horology, this prizewinning clock-maker is breaking the mould.
Rosie Kirk is an excellent timekeeper. “No horologist is ever on time,” she tells me. “But I’m always on time, even when I try to be late. It drives me mad.” Some might think that horology, the study of time and the art of clock-making, is all about punctuality, but Rosie’s story – and the philosophy behind her award-winning timepiece, the Horizon Clock – is one of patience. If she is persistently prompt now (I was late to our interview; she logged on early) it is natural eagerness, not urgency, which drives her. She knows better than most the benefits of following your own path, and taking your own time.
Dreams and Limits “It’s not something you hear about in school,” Rosie says, as she talks about her start in clock-making. In fact, it would take five years, two further education courses, and a (literal) dream before Rosie began her studies in horology. After leaving school, Rosie began an Art Foundation course at the University for the Creative Arts in Canterbury. “I was interested in working with my hands, maybe with jewellery. My parents are artists and they said the Art Foundation was fun, and you get to do a bit of everything.” She knew she didn’t want to be an artist but, feeling pressured to put herself on a track, she took up a degree in Religious Studies at the University Winchester. A year later, she
dropped out – and thought back to a revelation she’d had as an eighteen-year-old. “It sounds really corny, but I dreamt that I was a watchmaker. When I woke up I thought, wow, look, this combines everything in me in a really nice way. I really like the history, and a bit of maths and science, and creativity. And working with my hands. I always felt like my creative flair had a bit of a limit, so when I came across [horology] I thought, this has creativity but with limits. Well, not limits but… structure.” Everything fell into place, and at 23 she began a Horology degree at Birmingham City University, the only course of its kind in the world.
WRITTEN Rosa Furneaux
Bright Horizons Rosie Kirks do not come about very often. Women watchmakers, described by the Wall Street Journal as “a rare breed”, are less visible than their male counterparts – especially in the upper echelons of the fine watchmaking industry. Finding a young woman to interview for this piece was a challenge, and I was actively searching for someone who fitted ‘very loose’ requirements: successful young female clockmaker. The only girl in a class of thirteen, Rosie has been used to standing out since she started training as a horologist – but there was plenty more that set her apart from her classmates. She had blue hair, and she won international prizes. Most recently, her final year project has been put on show at the Science Museum, London. For the project, she says, “we were meant to make a simple clock. It’s my own fault that mine wasn’t that simple.” This is an egregious
understatement. Rosie’s project was called the Horizon Clock, and its aim was to show how our understanding of time is directly linked with the natural cycles of the earth. The Horizon Clock works on a 24-hour dial which shows a full day, or one rotation of the earth. Two makers represent the time of sunrise and sunset. The clock hand represents the sun. When it’s nighttime, the hand will fall below the markers, while in the day it rises above. The clock isn’t designed to be easily or accurately read – Rosie points out how it would be hard for anyone to say precisely what the time was at any given moment. But it indicates how much daylight we have left, and how soon darkness might be coming. As the seasons change, the sunrise and sunset markers must be moved manually to accommodate the lengthening and shortening daylight hours.
ILLUSTRATION Eliza Kinchington
Living by Light Her clock is a reminder of how far modern culture has pushed our understanding of time away from its natural roots. In the age of the iPhone, when every homescreen displays a clock, we perceive time as something rigid, mechanised, and unyielding. The idea that time might be somewhat flexible, that it is dependent on culture and nature and geography, is strange in our urbanised societies. The Horizon Clock takes us back to basics. “In the old days the sun was really important for telling the time,” Rosie says. “Peasants needed to know how much time was left to work, or to get home safely before you fell in a ditch in the dark.” Although she has found early clocks which show similar lines of thinking, including one that dates as far back at the 1700s, Rosie points out that her Horizon Clock might not have been much use to those living by the light of the sun. “Before clocks were invented they didn’t have dials at all; they were mostly sounded bells. That’s because it’s hard to read a dial, especially if you’re a medieval peasant, but you can count a bell.”
Turns of the Earth Some cultures, both modern and ancient, have sought to design clocks which more practically utilise the rising and setting of the sun. One system still in use in Swahili Time. In East Africa, Swahili-speaking counties rely on the sun’s fixed rising and setting time to set their clocks. Because of their closeness to the equator, these countries experience
sunrises and sunsets at one consistent time throughout the year. A sunrise at 6am in June will mean a sunrise at 6am in December. Less simple is the Prague Astronomical Clock. Installed in 1410 and still operating in the city’s Old Town Square, this astronomical clock is one of the oldest of its kind, and one of the most confusing. The clock utilises Old Czech Time, a system in which 24 is the time of sunset. Realistically, of course, sunset in Prague can vary from anywhere between 4pm and 8pm, depending on the season. The clock moves the 24-hour ring to compensate for the difference throughout the year. If you know how to read it, the clock will always tell you when the sun will set – but, in my view, Rosie’s Horizon Clock is a smidgen easier to use. When I admit this to her, she warns me not to look up traditional Japanese timekeeping and their notion of temporal hours… Talking to Rosie, you get the sense of a girl on a mission – though one for whom the destination is of less interest than the trek. Patience and persistence are common motifs in her stories, as she talks about the designing and creation of her Horizon Clock, and her current work as a restorer in London. Taking apart, meticulously cleaning, and putting back together the tiny mechanisms in a timepiece requires a specific skillset. Some of that can be learnt in a lecture hall, some in a workshop, but the rest comes from an inherent respect for the job at hand and the time it needs. “A beautiful clock is made by attention to detail. Bits that needn’t be done, but have been done, little flourishes.” A willingness to linger. At one point Rosie says, “I think I will have to completely redesign my clock at some point to make it work better.” She’ll need to ask the London Science Museum for it back first.
ARTICLE Clockmaker
Crafting Your Path For now, Rosie is enjoying her time in the pitter-patter workshop of a clock restoring shop not far from central London. After graduating with First Class Honours she was awarded the prestigious international AHCI Young Talent Prize for her Horizon Clock, and saw it exhibited at the Clockmaker’s Museum. She is, she thinks, the only woman with work on show there. When questioned on what the future might hold, Rosie is contemplative. Initially she had hoped to design clocks commercially, but she’s found her work as a restorer rewarding and beneficial to furthering her specialist knowledge. Far from holding her back, her time in the workshop is preparing her for challenges ahead. “I’m learning a lot about the context of all these pieces. I want to be an expert, and put that expertise into making good clocks. But I do really enjoy the fixing side of things. It’s hard to say.” She pauses. “I think I need a bit more time.” Rosie’s personal philosophy, though, is constant. “I don’t think about time as a constraint. I think more about fixing clocks in term of the mechanics and the creativity and the craftsmanship.” Wonderful things can come from crafting your own track. I’m filled with an optimism, after speaking to Rosie, about the reliability of one’s own calling. It’s true that nature and life take their own time coming, and that the shifting horizon-lines that dominate our twenties can seem fickle and frustrating. But it is also true that patience, persistence, and hard work pay off. Be attentive to detail. Follow the tick-tock beat in your chest. And see your winding path not as constraint but as creativity. You’ll get there in your own sweet time. You can find Rosie Kirk’s Horizon Clock in the Clockmakers’ Museum at the Science Museum, London. Follow her on Twitter @degrubbelies and Instagram @ rosiekirk_horologist.
THE
AURA ISSUE Submissions Open September 1st 2016 October 31st 2016
Read our submission guidelines at www.theatlasmagazine.com Submit your work to submissions@theatlasmagazine.com
PHOTOGRAPHY Janina Fleckhaus
