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VFW S/S 15
# VALENCIA FASHION WEEK S/S 15
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SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Meet creative people from the scenes of fashion, design, lifestyle, art & culture
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PREMIUM IntERnatIonal FashIon tRadE show
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# I m p r i n t
SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com Publisher
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Chief Editor V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com CREATIVE Director Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com PhotographER Marc Huth editor Kristian Barella Greve Graphic editor Franziska Raue / franziska@superior-mag.com Editorial Department editor@superior-mag.com Advertising advertising@superior-mag.com PR Management press@superior-mag.com
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COVER: Eugenio Loarce Show photo by Marc Huth
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IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, IT WILL LAST FOREVER ewerk Berlin, 19 – 21 January 15 -11-
green showroom 19 — 21 January 15 Hotel Adlon Kempinski, Berlin
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RUNWAY SHOWS @ VFW S/S 15
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INTERVIEW: PEDRO FERNÁNDEZ
VALENCIA FASHION WEEK S/S 15 40 FASHION FILM CONFERENCE BY Miguel Angel Font Bisier
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VALENCIA FASHION WEEK DIARY BY MARC HUTH STREET STYLE @ VFW S/S 15
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SHOWS @ VALENCIA FASHION WEEK S/S 15 -14-
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Jara Maldonado ALEXIS CARBALOSSA Anel Yaos MARIA BARAZA AMABEL GARCIA MARIA COZAR Eugenio Loarce NAOKO BENAVENTE GABRIEL SEGUI Pedro Fernåndez / INTERVIEW When one talks of fashion, cities like New York, Paris, London or Milan pop up in peoples brain. We have been conditioned to think of these cities as not only the capital of fashion but also the beacons of taste and talent. If you’ve made it there you became a real designer. By this assumption we often forget that fashion is nothing more than the artistic representation of a Zeitgeist, a person, a region. Therefore it is mandatory for fashion editors, stylists and other representatives of the the fashion industries to look toward the regional differences and so the smaller fashion weeks. Considering the explosion of creativity at the Fashion Clash, the edge delivered in Berlin or the
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vanguard interpretation of culture delivered in New Delhi, we were utterly excited when Nadia Nae invited us to Valencia Fashion Week. Like we said in our announcement, we had no idea about Valencia, nor its fashion. But being a region which has a long and rich tradition in the manufacturing of precious fabrics and elaborated pattern which they inherit mostly from arabic merchant, Valencia has always been a beacon of quality and exclusivity. In the following issue, we are going to present you the finest designers Valencia has to offer and some intel about the Fashion encountered by Marc and Kristian.
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Jara Maldonado Maldonado’s collection started with a look out of the window. The fog was covering the city and dipping everything into an absolute and pure white. She wasn’t able to detect any shapes, nor spot any form of life. Everything seemed white. Or did it? The longer the designer looked at it the more she realised that the white fog was filled with different shades. Nothing is really white. Starting off with this realisation, Maldonado wanted to explore the depth and riches hidden behind white. Jara Maldonado studied Fashion Design at the Fachhochschule Trier - a little town in Germany, that is known for bringing forward two men that shaped Europe’s history, but not really its fashion. After her studies she went on working with Loewe in Madrid, had a brief venture in London, to return to Madrid, where she developed this collection. One can clearly spot the international influences in Maldonado’s collection. The choice of material was very contemporary and reminded one of some conceptual collections that waked the Londoner’s catwalk.
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The cut reminded one a lot of the old Western European classics and the styling was clearly inspired by Westwood. Maldonados collection did not excel in its creativity, but in the way she managed to combine different influences in one coherent collection. By playing with different textures and very subtle nuances, the collection’s forte were the clear and minimalistic cuts. The play on transparency in addition to its references to the puritan settlers (seen in collar or in the Westwood inspired hats) or the boots that were reminiscent of the Victorian era, gave the collection the spice it needed to set itself apart. Winning the free slot for the next edition of Valencia Fashion Week was therefore no surprise. It was even welcomed by the critics that hope to see more of that young and talented designer in the future.
text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE photos JARA MALDONADO
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Alexis Carballosa
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photos ALEXIS CARBALLOSA
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Anel Yaos Being the most controversial designer on a fashion week is usually a good thing. One gets lots of press, people talk about your stuff and usually have a very strong opinion about your aesthetic and the value of your work. In Anel Yaos case all of the above is true. The andalusian designer rose hell on this season’s Valencia Fashion Week with his collection 2255 which was as we mentioned in our recap before, the attempt of creating new shapes and redefine boundaries in menswear by playing with the notion of sensuality, was a major subject of discussion. We therefore decided to dig a little deeper and analyse his work in detail. Anel Yaos started out studying art in Sevilla, where he specialised in window dressing. But as with all great minds that passion did not last long, then as soon as he graduated from that he started with his Fashion Design studies. Still enrolled in a fashion marketing class, that young designer that has been featured in Spanish and Sritish Vogue, has won with his very vanguard way of perceiving gender and creating a truly unisex aesthetic very prize he set out to get. He was for example the winner of Valencia Fashion Weeks young designer award 2013 which enabled him to show his spring / summer collection this year. Anel Yaos is not a man that goes for the obvious. When his inspiration usually lies in the mist of the unknown and is highly conceptual.
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This year's collection focussed on the number 2255. In a brief talk about his work and his collection the designer revealed that “The number twenty two and fifty five has always played a role in his life and became a sign which has been carried by signs or journeys. This number has for me alway hidden a contradiction. A concept that became the inspiration of my collection” Thus the designer showed a collection in which the fabrics seemed to fight against each other to create what he called “a perfect fusion”. A disturbing fondness of the darkness and mysterious lust conflicts with an active but nearly romantic appreciation of the body. Challenging us to accept the fact that clothes are sexless, he indulged in a variety of colours as black, red, orange, fuchsia, brown, copper, blue adding them to metallics and a variety of textures like satin, leather, silk, net and plastic which clash. Anel wishes for an “audience without any prejudice. One that is tired of the commercial and bored by seeing the same things again and again”. His person would be one striving for synergy of all elements and actually not really caring if he looks like a male prostitute. But jokes aside. Anel Yaos has a very interesting and strong point of view that is highly refreshing! One has to wonder if he does not incorporate a little hint of humour and the wish to change peoples conception to something lighter, maybe even greater.
text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE photos ANEL YAOS
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photos MARIA BARAZA
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Amabel Garcia Knitwear is a difficult subject matter. Dividing the brightest brains in fashion critic, the traditional craftsmanship was the basis of Amabel Garcia collection. Considering the 17th edition of Valencia Fashion Week was aiming spring / summer 2015 it was rather an unorthodox choice. But her collection is based on an entire different approach to designing, which makes the dichotomy between spring/summer and autumn/winter obsolete. She created an elaborate way to reflect the complexity of ones personality in her designs. Each characteristic and personality trait is expressesd in one visual concept. For instance a rationalist is rather straight stiff and geometric, whereas an introvert would have a more cocoon shaped appearance. The idea behind her collection is that the fashion business is not marketing directly to peoples needs or personality but enforces them to adopt traits that they usually would not have. With that fashion is a way to
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portrait the person you want to be, or society wants you to be but not the person you truly are. She offers with her concept a new approach to fashion and style in general which one should may think about applying in the future. But besides a powerful and extremely interesting concept, she knows what she is doing. The sculptural and extremely graphic approach to the knitwear, and its beautifully though through shapes and cut-outs, made every doubt disappear. One can appreciate that collection even without knowing the concept, which makes it even more beautiful. Amabel has her way with subtile lines and knows how to use knitwear to not only protect the body but to expose it too. A talent that is rather seldom. text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE photos AMABEL GARCIA
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Maria Cozar
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photos MARIA COZAR
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Eugenio Loarce Eugenio Loarce was the most anticipated designer. With his bold use of colours and prints, the designer decided for this edition to go with a bucolic theme: The cock. The inspiration came to him when he woke up by the sound of a cock and looked out of the window. The colours appeared like a kaleidoscope in the flower studded yard. Using nature as a source of inspiration is a very common thing for Loarce who already based collections on the stripes of a zebra or the elegance of the swan. But this time he decided to hit it closer to home and to focus on his grandmothers gardens, where the cock is the king and awakes the world every morning. Being a leitmotiv that was born out of his childhood memories, the prints the designer used recalled illustrations in a children's book. Highly stylised the rooster finds his way on shirts and skirts, whereas the flowers of the garden decorate the outerwear. Blending the rather colourful prints with blues and blacks, the designer manages to create a calmness to the outfits. They are not overpowering the viewer nor the wearer. His rounded collars, which remind one of the classical shirts worn by peasants, and the yokes he added to the shirts underline the pastoral approach to his collection. We wished he would have stuck with the wonderful separates, which were properly constructed, and the use of his prints, rather then attempting to add draperies into some of the outfits and by that -28-
watering the powerful aesthetic down (the same goes for the feather embroideries on one look). Nevertheless Eugenio Loarce deserves the attention payed to him, even more the admiration some people in the audience have. He knows how to sell a collection and how to work prints and colours into harmony. Another thing one has to talk about is the presentation. Eugenio Loarce is known for the fact that he strives to make women elegant and men handsome. This time though he overdid himself. Considering the common perception that high heels have the quality of rendering a woman’s body a little more graceful, Loarce chose sky heels for his girls. One has to admit that the shoes looked rather pleasant, but this said, they were way to high resulting in the audience demanding the models to end their suffering and take them of - which they did under the flaming applause. This created a strong and memorable moment between the models and the spectator, a moment that one will not forget that easily. We confronted Eugenio with the “shoe gate�, as people have been calling it after the show. Deploring that the shoes were hurting the models, he explained that they were not suppose to be that high and that he has gotten them a few hours before the show which made it impossible to find a decent substitute. He took a risk whilst being aware of the backlash it could have, but is happy that the girls were fine and applauds them for trying to walk in them. All in all, the shoe problematic did not even matter. Eugenio Loarce showed an astonishing collection filled with life and vibrance, which even exceded the expectations.
text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE photos EUGENIO LOARCE
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photos NAOKO
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Benavente As we said in the recap, Benavente’s melancholic dark romantic transported one to the funeral of an old spanish baron, which made us analyse his collection a little further. Benavente has always had a fascination for the dark an the morbid. While coming up with his collection, the young designer, that founded his label 2012, wandered through Spain looking at ruins. Everything for him was drown into a sea of deep sorrow, only with a hint of bitter air coming up. The collection should captivate a certain amount of sadnes, darkness and defeat. That is why he upped for a monochrome collection. With delicate head pieces and very classical cuts, the young designer caught the attention of renowned spanish stylists that assured some of his pieces for her future shoots. Those head pieces reminded one of the veils worn by a moarning widow. Or the opening scene of Evita in the Madonna movie. When talking about the garments, Benavente merged draping with meticulous constructions. The trousers reveal plural layers, even though at first sight they look flat and rather
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usual. He plays with transparencies without revealing much, but still everything looks like it just came out of Mortia Adams closet. And I believe that this is his strong point. The designer plays with different notions. Fuses the aspect of halloween costumes with the elegance of the spanish nobility, but without forgetting a certain sensuality that is intoxicated. And this without discriminating the sexes. The only thing he really missed out on was the ornaments. Maybe out of financial distress or just bad taste, he opted for rather cheap looking plastic flowers to cover his shoes or accentuate the veils. This is extremely sad considering that those exaggerated ornaments were not required to underline his strong point of view and his beautiful perception of the human body.
text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE photos BENAVENTE
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Gabriel Segui
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photos GABRIEL SEGUI
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Pedro Fernández Valencia Fashion Week has for many years been Spain’s main gate way for young designers to showcase their talent. Pedro FernÁndez is one of these young talents for whom this Fashion Week was created. With his 26 years of age, the Vigo born designer has dedicated himself and his life to his passion for fashion. Working as a costume designer on movie sets, being the fashion editor of FirstFmag, that young man shows the will and perseverance to become a major player. His S/S 2015 collection was baptised L.U.C as a reference to the word luck. The name was chosen as talisman form the young designer, that with this collection would like to step up his game and start a new chapter in his career. Never has the designer made an entire collection, which made him want to mark this one with the utter most personal flavour. This is easy to see in the use of pastel colours and the elegant black to counterpart the greys he chose to match it with. One feels Pedro’s meticulous touch in every outfit. Every millimetre of every look has been studied and tested, changed and improved sometimes which shows until the last moment. The geometric lines were all evenly proportioned and the flow of the
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fabrics nearly mandated. He knows the female body and works not against it, as young men usually do, but with it. His silhouettes are meant to please a woman and help her being chic without loosing her sportive edge. This is though not something that makes a collection win any prizes. The reason behind his success in Valencia lies not in the meticulous way he styled the models, the attention to details and the rather well thought through silhouettes, but in his personality. As you will realise in the interview we had with the young designer, he is a genuine person, that works hard and grows fast. He understood combining different elements he has seen in other successful labels into his aesthetic without copying it. That is why his collection L.U.C. seems so international and nearly outlandish in the Valencian context. Pedro Fernández Atelier is a label on which we all should keep an eye on.
text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE photos PEDRO FERNÁNDEZ
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Pedro Fernández
INTERVIEW # You are quite young. How did you manage to build up a fashion label so fast? I spend the last 5 years working in the fashion industry, as a stylist, costume designer for TV series and movies, and at the side I designed various capsule collections that were well received. My passion and calling is designing, that's why I decided to jump into the water and hope by taking it slow to succeed at the end. # Who is endorsing you? My family and friends are my greatest supporters, but foremost my strength and persistency.
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# As we heard you were born in Vigo and live in Madrid. How come you chose Valencia as your platform? Valencia Fashion Week has always been the catwalk on which young and uppercoming designers were endorsed. From here came many names that have made a mark. I think it comes from the attitude of the catwalk and the fashion industry. # In an interview with FirstFmag you said that you would love to show in Paris. Would you consider another city? Of course. One should never dismiss any kind of opportunity, because usually those
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come from where you least expect it. Paris is a dream, but not the only one. # You are the Fashion Editor at FirstFmag. Does your work in a magazine influence your designs? Being in daily contact with fashion influences one, but it mostly enriches one and gives you the opportunity to see things you wouldn’t see walking the streets. # Where do you source your materials for your garments? As we are at the beginning of your project, we try to set ourselves apart by relying on small vendors that offers interesting materials. # Where is your client base? In Spain, especially people seeking to have something different and see your product as something interesting.
# You won the jury prize at Valencia Fashion Week. How does it feel? And what does winning such a prize mean to you and your future? I was happy, but I could not believe it at the same time. My face basically said it all. But above all I am extremely grateful! The award fills me with pride and considering that it was my first shot, it is a big recognition and incentive to keep on fighting. # Do you have any advice for young designers? If you really believe that this is your way to go, fight with tooth and nails. It isn’t an easy road, nor a lovely industry but it's very satisfactory. # What do you wish for in the future? I want to work in fashion, see someone unknown wearing my designs and keep on creating and be able to survive by creating.
# When was your last holiday? Holidays? I think I forgot the meaning of that word, but before starting L.U.C I took some time off. # Did you always want to work in fashion? The power of creating something beautiful for someone or for all has always fascinated me.
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text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE photo Israel Duró
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AUGUST GETTY
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FASHION FILM CONFERENCE
By Miguel Angel Font Bisier -56-
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Valencia Fashion Week did not only focus on the display of garments and show casing emerging designers, but offered a broad variety of panels and discussions which were mainly held in Spanish. One conference which especially caught our attention was the one by Miguel Angel Font Bisier, the first spanish Fashion Film director and a pioneer in the art of Fashion Film.
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text KRISTIAN BARELLA GREVE | photo Edgar Bahilo RodrĂguez
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Miguel Angel ended his career in audiovisual communication in 2010 to dedicate himself to a project that would become his first and best known film: Eiénesis. At the time he collaborated with a Spanish fashion blog and decided to merge his expertise about visual arts and the world of fashion that he “knew nothing about”. From that moment on he began looking for designers that would create a collection especially for this fashion film. This said every costume or design that appeared in his award winning trilogy was created once the designer knew the script. For Angel this “made the fashion reenforce the storyline, not like in 90% of the other fashion films that focus to much on the product”. For Angel the product is not the goal of the video, but only initiate the creation. The fashion films duty is to tell a story.
not able to separate them from this habit and have a hard time telling a story with the clothes. That is the main reason he discards the role of a stylist and endorses the presence of a costume designer on set, who is acting as a stylist. Furthermore he feels like fashion film should be shot by real directors. Photographers are usually asked to create fashion films, which comes from the idea that they are used to capture the essence of fashion in a moment, so they should be able to do the same in a given time frame. Angel firmly disagrees with that. He feels like fashion photographers have no idea of cinematography, nor of movement and pictures. The fashion film, so Angel, needs a new set of talents and people and can not be continuously produced by the people that are already shaping the editorial eye.
The fashion film has therefore to be separated from any kind of editorial. An editorial has the goal to place a product and make it interesting for the eye. The value of an editorial is not strictly artistic, but the advertorial purpose is highly present. The consequence emerging from this is that people who are usually working on editorials in fashion are
With these very strong opinions, Angel created a division in the audience. We personally are not supporting his point of view, but are content with the fact that people are trying to comprehend the concept of fashion films and are by that forming strong opinions which in the end are going to be the fuel on which an art form depends.
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Miguel Angel Font Bisier : Aeterna - In search of love
Miguel Angel Font Bisier : Heraion - In search of life -60-
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Miguel Angel Font Bisier FASHION FILMS
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Pedro Fernรกndez
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jacket Benavente shirt Vintage pants zara shoes Reiss
overall, belt & necklace Benavente shoes dr.Martens
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shirt Topman shorts H&M socks Kitty pelt sunglasses & bag Asos shoes Vintage
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shirt Bershka bag CUstOm made jeans leVi's shoes Dune sunglasses Ray-ban
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necklace benavente shirt h&m pants pepe jeans watch Dolce & Gabbana shoes & bag Zara
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dress & bag Zara shoes Zendra x el corte ingles watch Dolce & Gabbana
Piluca Santos
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pants Zara dress cUstOm made shoes Giaro bag vintage
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shirt & pants Zara bow tie Brackish blazer cUstOmized Zara bag Bershka shoes Asos
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shirt Asos cap Bershka pants H&M shoes Adidas
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outfit ZARA shoes VINTAGE
Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com
coming out on October 31st 2014
# NOVEMBER 2014