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Chief Editor V.i.S.d.P. Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com CREATIVE Director Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com fashion Consultant Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com Graphic editor Franziska Raue / franziska@superior-mag.com Editorial Department editors@superior-mag.com Advertising advertising@superior-mag.com PR Management press@superior-mag.com CONTRIBUTORS EdItORS Cariin Cowalscii, Carla Follesa, Elsa Sonntag, Evelyn Carhuas, Kristian Barella Greve, Lisa Oke, Marie-Luise Kramer, Monika Penning, Sarah Weyers, Simon Naschberger, Victoria Richter PhOtO & VIdEO Carolin Brandt, Dominic Packulat, Jan van Zonligt, Julian Martini ARt Daria Sommer, Franziska Raue
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COVER: ALEKS KURKOWSKI Show Photo by Julian Martini
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BERLIN FASHION WEEK SPECIAL
# Editorial Dear Berlin Fashion Week lovers It’s already a habit, that after BERLIN FASHION WEEK we come out with a DIGITAL BFW Special. In this special issue you find on more than 100 pages many show reports and interviews and of course lots of photos from MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN shows, fittings and backstage as well as our visits at the trade fairs GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN, PREMIUM and SEEK. But this time there is something new. Additionally to the DIGITAL Special issue we have published our first iPad APP “SUPERIOR CITY – Berlin”. In the APP you get additional insights related to BFW like designer interviews, videos and hotspot presentations. Don’t miss to download the iPad APP – it’s free! Many thanks to the hard working team of Cariin, Carla, Caro, Daria, Elsa, Evelyn, Franziska, Jan, Julian, Kristian, Lisa, Marie-Luise, Monika, Sarah, Simon and Victoria who made the DIGITAL Special and the iPad APP possible. Enjoy our DIGITAL BFW Special & iPad APP... Best, Tom, Marc and the whole SUPERIOR team
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VISUAL ARTS
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Martina Cyman
»EARLY SPRING«
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Jana Gerberding
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MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN A/W 15
102 PREMIUM
GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN
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jacket & shirt DYN pants BARRENOIRE
photography by MartiNA CYMAN hair & make up by PETER FABRICIUS post production by SAMUI TAKESHI models JAN SIGMUND,KEIRON DEE & VINCENT WAGENMANN All Clothes Spring/Summer 2015
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jackets, shirts & grey pants DYN flower print pants BARRENOIRE
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shirt DYN pants BARRENOIRE shoes HUGO BOSS
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shirts BARRENOIRE pants BARRENOIRE & MASSIMO DUTTI shoes SAXONE & BIRKENSTOCK
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jacket & shirt DYN pants BARRENOIRE shoes BIRKENSTOCK
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Interviews (in German) with Frida Homann (DYN), Aleks Kurkowski, Thomas Hanisch, Ivan Mandzukic, Ewa Herzog in our free iPad App "SUPERIOR CITY - Berlin
CARIIN'S MBFWB DIARY IRENE LUFT REBEKKA RUÉTZ GLAW
SHOWS & BACKSTAGE GLAW IVANMAN SOPOPULAR EWA HERZOG PAPER London RIANI DYN Aleks Kurkowski thomas hanisch esther perbandt
INTERVIEW: FINN JUNIPER DENARO
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Cariin's MBFWB Diary IRENE LUFT No designer is known better for her flamboyant and sexy lace dresses than IRENE LUFT. Since a couple of years she shows up at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN again and again with awesome creations and interpretations of sexiness and elegance. Reason enough for me to take a look behind the scenes. Casting-time on Friday afternoon. I'm appointed at 3.30 pm at the L'Oreal Academy at Friedrichstraße Berlin. It´s a very nice and big place to do a casting and it must be because there is a Pro 7 RED! Team which is documenting everything that happens as well as head creative Boris Entrup from MAYBELLINE New York with a whole team. While the first 10 girls are in the waiting area outside the studio I get the chance to say Hello and get to know Irene Luft personally for the first time. What a pleasure after I have regularly used her awesome dresses for my styling work. And then the casting starts. The girls change into their heels, hand on their books to Irene’s right-hand Michael Arndt. While walking gracefully towards them the girls are asked if it´s okay to wear something transparent and how old they are. No girls at age 17 and -34-
under are allowed. The critical faces of both won´t give you any idea if they liked a girl or not. Keeping a straight face is important. „Thank you for coming, we will let you know“. Irene makes little notes on the sedcards and hands it to her assistant. After the first 15 girls Irene switches to the other room where Boris has prepared a girl with a first runway look and make-up idea. Meanwhile the next girls arrive at the academy. Again some heels. Again some books and again „thank you“. And again some minutes to talk with Boris, the interview people and to do a lot more of important preparations for the show and also for PREMIUM. A couple of hours and beautiful girls later it´s almost done. Irene made notes about every girl. I'm pretty curious to see who made it to the show on Thursday. 6 Days later - it´s show-time. We meet Irene and the whole team backstage. Everything looks already so nice when we arrive. The girls are almost finished. Dark lips and bright eyes let the girls look like divas. Irene starts to fit the girls into the dresses which just arrived today. Everything looks perfect – like expected. It´s hard to imagine you can look bad in such beautiful dresses like those Irene is going to show in a few minutes. I'm so exited to see the gowns at the runway. A last glance into Irene's direction. I wish her a good show and take my seat.
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text Cariin Cowalscii photos Jan van Zonligt
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REBEKKA RUÉTZ The Austria born designer REBEKKA RUÉTZ invited us to the casting at her apartment at Behrenstraße in Berlin-Mitte on Sunday afternoon before MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN starts. Arriving at the apartment we instantly meet the first girls and take the elevator to the 4th floor together. Most of the girls know each other and there's no hostility or disfavor at all. Excitedly they exchange their experiences about the past and upcoming castings, the designers and their bookings. A team member at the waiting area tells them not to put heels on because they won´t need them. Furtive joy comes up. All the 12 chosen models need to walk in flat boots from NEOSENS. The challenge fort them is to still look feminine and to show a strong walk. Anja Kaltenbach, Rebekka Ruétz' PR consultant, supports her to choose the right girls and shares her opinion by small head movements. Only a few nods, because only a few girls get the chance to snatch one of the rare left seats. Like the year before, most oft he girls were already casted and chosen by SP MODELS MUNICH. The last few missing girls were requested only from the agencies M4, CORE MNGT and ONEEINS MNGT to make sure to get exactly the wished look. Furtively sneaked in girls were politely but firmly asked to leave right away. -38-
The decisions about the last girls are quickly made. In an other corner of the apartment helping hands are promptly dressing the girls, pinning shoulder pads, placing accessories and write the names on the look-sheets. Faster then expected the casting is done. What a success! „Team model“ is completed. The second part of the fitting starts at 6pm with all the girls who were confirmed before. The models really look magic in their outfits – just in keeping with the topic „A Fairytale“. After 3 hours of stunning impressions I thank the team for such a great insight and say goodbye. Back outside I know –there is nothing standing in the way for a marvelous show. On Tuesday - the day of the show - I find nearly the same calm and relaxed mood at the backstage area than 2 days before. The only difference is that a lot more people are walking around and doing a lot more of things all at the same time. Make-up artists, hairdressers and all the dressers are busy. Rebekka Ruétz seems to be very eased. No surprise! The outfits are on the rails, the hair & make-up artists are nearly done and the rehearsal works without any mistake or rush. 20 minutes left. Some last interviews here and some press shots there. I whish Rebekka all the best and an awesome show and scurry away to watch the show by myself.
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text Cariin Cowalscii photos Jan van Zonligt
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GLAW For most of the people Berlin Fashion Week is just a nice social event and means a lot of parties. But for some other people in this business it means a lot of work and preparation months before. The young GLAW designer duo MARIA POWELEIT and JESKO WILKE knows exactly what we´re talking about. A few days before this year's A/W 15/16 show at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN I am welcome to visit the think tank of those talents to get a personal impression about the last important steps of such a long process. Friday morning 11 am. Across a big court you get into the building. „Glaw Casting“ is written on big sheets of paper which show the models the way. Arriving at the studio, both welcome me very warmly and seem pretty relaxed. They rely on only one agency called „MODELWERK“. Just a few minutes after my arrival the first models already show up. Eager faces on everybody. Some heel clacks here, a pose there, a short smile. Up and down. Some walk just once and others several times. It´s done. Thank you. 16 girls got the permit to walk for their show. Jesko and Maria seem very happy and relaxed. I´m happy for them too, say thanks for such an impressive first day and leave the studio, really looking forward to the fitting. Sunday morning, again 11 am. The collection is hanging on 4 rails spread in the whole studio. Immediately my eyes become bigger and -42-
do already catch favorites. A black laminated wool-coat, a bright red Marlene panty and totally matching to that a lot of classic beautiful silk blouses. „Touching allowed“ they twinkle. I don't let them tell me this twice and my fingers glide through all the fabrics. Awesome. Together with stylist Agnes Friedrich, who also invented the prints, they instantly start to combine the outfits for the show. Somebody knocks. Cheerfully, the first model steps into the studio and the team starts to drape clothes on her right away. The looks are just perfect. A short walk up and down, a Polaroid and okayed. Meanwhile a lot more press people found their way into the studio. Pictures, interviews and videos of all happenings are highly coveted. Almost incidental they go on with the styling. They don't ever seem to get troubled. The day just flies. Nonstop something is pulled here and adjusted there. Sunglasses? Maybe here the overknees. Jacket open or closed. Many things are discussed. The girls walk up and down the corridor. Picture and next outfit please. The challenge is mastered and the last outfit done. Neatly everything is packed into bags. Shoes, accessories and the whole outfits are perfectly prepared for the big show in two days. Good job guys – I´m really looking forward to the show and thank you so much for letting me be part of your business.
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text Cariin Cowalscii photos Dominic Packulat
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text CARLA FOLLESA photos JULIAN MARTINI
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SHOWS & BACKSTAGE The Berlin based designer duo Maria Poweleit and Jesko Wilke found an open gab in the market with batik leather. After graduating from the international college of art and design, ESMOD Berlin, in 2011, they started their own label GLAW. The label stands for contemporary and timeless fashion which is why both designers find their inspiration in various areas of life not focusing on what is going to become a trend. The strong woman still is and will be the central subject of their designs. „The woman as a modern goddess“ is what Maria Poweleit and Jesko Wilke took as a motto for their autumn/winter 2015 collection which they presented at MERCEDESBENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN.
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Watch the interview with Maria Poweleit & Jesko Wilke on the SUPERIOR YOUTUBE Channel
GLAW Surface structures in the form of laminated reflecting wool fabric, embroideries and prints were inspired by snakes and besides leather and silk, neoprene and fur are recurring fabrics in this collection. Feminine elements like maxi dresses and silky, flowing trousers are combined with rough biker jackets and voluminous, colored fur coats in a wide range of tones. Black and creme-white go with bright blue, coral-red and a lot of gold and make a great mix. Once again, the collection reflects the designers’ take on femininity and builds a wearable unit of Haute Couture and Prêt-a-porter.
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text CARLA FOLLESA photos JULIAN MARTINI
IVANMAN Known for his clear, uniform-like designs, IVAN MANDZUKIC exactly knows how to push classical menswear to another level. By using colorful accents and architectural elements to spice up his pieces, IVANMAN clothes are never too outrageous yet always hide a surprise. The autumn/winter 2015 collection, which has been presented at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN, is dominated by bright pink, orange and purple in the form of sleeveless tops, two-rowed waistcoats and unicolored socks that are combined with comparatively ordinary black trousers, creme-white turtlenecks and brown shirts. Ivan Mandzukic combined classical fabrics with technical materials, the sporty with the chic, and created yet another breach of style that make his clothes even more appealing. A recurring element in every outfit are the leather lace-ups with colored heels that arose out of a collaboration with the Berlin Shoe Brand SHOEPASSION. -46-
Interview (in German) with Ivan Mandzukic in our free iPad App "SUPERIOR CITY Berlin
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text CARLA FOLLESA photos JULIAN MARTINI
SOPOPULAR The menswear label SOPOPULAR is known for clean, pure cuts, timeless designs and subtle colors. Daniel Blechman, the creative head behind the label, characterizes it like that: “SOPOPULAR stands for the gap between high fashion and streetwear. SOPOPULAR wants to create fashion that outlives seasonal trends, whilst at the same time reflecting the current zeitgeist. Classic style elements of men's fashion are given unconventional forms to create our own, clearly recognizable style, characterized by culture, architecture, and especially music�. In the autumn/winter 2015 collection "Revolution Noire", SOPOPULAR presented at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN, multilayered outfits gave individual items an elaborate touch.
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By mixing classical fabrics just as merino wool and cashmere with plastic and leather in several shades from black to a crisp gray, designer Daniel Blechman not only stuck to his guns but went the extra mile and created a strong, dark collection full of contrasts that, nevertheless, forms a unified whole. All looks were completed by boots from PALLADIUM.
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text CARLA FOLLESA photos JULIAN MARTINI
EWA HERZOG Like a lot of her colleagues, Berlin based fashion designer Ewa Herzog always felt love for fashion, so she studied Fashion Design at the AMD Academy for Fashion and Design Berlin. After her graduation in 2010 she founded her eponymous fashion label EWA HERZOG. Her feminine and wearable fashion achieved success quickly and her designs stand up for clean, feminine cuts, intense colors and high-quality fabrics. Some days ago Ewa Herzog showed her autumn/winter 2015 collection at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN, which focused on a lot of lace-dresses. But also crop-tops in combination with high waist shorts and skirts, short jump-suits and capes were seen. The garment pieces in her collection come up in black, white, rose, light brown and different shades of blue. She compares short lengths to full lengths, so once again she brings together sexy and elegance in accordance
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with each other. Between those different lengths, there is a golden mullet dress which connects the different lengths and matches perfectly with a black-glitter and a black deeply dĂŠcolletĂŠ dress with golden highlights. To pick up the lace-theme she placed lace as details on necklines or hemlines. Additional materials like leather and velvet are used to underline the classiness. The used fabrics mainly come from Western Europe and are cut and sewn by two tailors, who support Ewa Herzog in production. This production concept is part of her ambition to create a social sewing-studio.
Interview (in German) with Ewa Herzog in our free iPad App "SUPERIOR CITY - Berlin
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text CARLA FOLLESA photos JULIAN MARTINI
PAPER LONDON This year’s young, talented label that got invited to MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN by MERCEDES-BENZ and fashion magazine ELLE is called PAPER LONDON. Founded by duo Kelly Townsend and Philippa Thackeray, the British brand stands for clean, crisp designs inspired by artists and architecture - mostly from their domicile and British capital London. Sculptural cuts and structured fabrics such as knitted turtleneck dresses, transparent straight-line skirts and wide clamdiggers
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are colored in combinations or all-over looks of rosé, mint and creme-white together with black, teal and anthracite. Additionally, a Mickey-Mouse-inspired dress and a jumpsuit with a perfect fit make for an even more gripping, thought-out collection and the metropolitan kind of coolness sticks out a mile.
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text CARLA FOLLESA photos JULIAN MARTINI
DYN For the third time the label DYN by fashion designer FRIDA HOMANN presented at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN. Her autumn/winter 2015 collection was inspired by Paris – city of love and worldwide fashion capital. Besides the common origination process, Frida Homann picked the way of draping fabrics on a mannequin to create beautiful new silhouettes out of clear straight-line shapes mixed with smoothly flowing passages wrapped around the body. Androgynous male models presented classical pieces just like slim suits, rectangular jackets and buttoned up shirts combined with big hats or printed silk scarves, capes and a top made of braided cord. The colors bordeaux, beige and a pale blue run like a golden thread through the collection and underline an edgy yet romantic Parisian chic.
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Interview (in German) with Frida Homann in our free iPad App "SUPERIOR CITY Berlin
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text Elsa Sonntag photos JULIAN MARTINI
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Aleks Kurkowski The German/Polish designer ALEKS KURKOWSKI continues to meet her claim by creating sustainable fashion with only natural ingredients. „I 'm straight, plain and urban“, describes the designer the style of the unisex-label which was launched in 2012. Trademark of the label is the color black. All designs are black. Alex Kurkowski just doesn’t like other colors: „Colors become boring. Black never will“! It is very important for the designer that the fabrics are from ecologically controlled cultivation or from animal husbandry. The whole collection is produced regionally around Germany and Poland. When asked what kind of women she imagines wearing her clothes, she describes them as having a strong personality, androgynous and not being vain. „It is someone who buys clothes therein to feel comfortable and to assist in its being“, describes the designer. If Aleks Kurkowski would have to choose a person who combines all of these features, it would be Tilda Swinton for example.
Creative chaos - something one would expect from a fashion week backstage area just before the show starts. Before Aleks Kurkowski´s presentation of her A/W 2015 collection at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN is relaxed
atmosphere rather than panic. 20 minutes later a hard, thunder like bass comes out of the speakers. The musical storm dismisses models in deep black on the runway, just as one would expect from the designer for two years. She sticks faithfully to her style. Black also dominates the fourth collection "Romanticism & Reality". As in the last two years, the collection, which consists out of 17 parts, blurs boundaries between the sexes. The sections form a neutral silhouette by wrapping around the body shapes instead of stress them. The jackets for both men and women are asymmetrical cut. In the male models top, high-collars dominate. Rough leather jackets, casual college jackets and shirts combine the male models with rough black boots and three-quarter pants. The female models are "easier" clothed in comparison to men. Transparent chiffon blouses combined with straight-running pants. Tight black leather leggings paired with an egg-shape-wool coat. With that the female models wear wedgeheel sandals made out of wood and leather. The collection is a combination of wool, chiffon and leather. Details such as leather straps that are tied around the wrists and accessories like black arm warmers let the models look like urban warriors. As if the models were freed from bondage.
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Interview (in German) with Aleks Kurkowski in our free iPad App "SUPERIOR CITY Berlin
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text Elsa Sonntag photos JULIAN MARTINI
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THOMAS HANISCH This season newcomer THOMAS HANISCH gave his debut at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN. He graduated 2013 from ESMOD Berlin and his collection was long awaited, since the 22-year old designer already had some huge press last year. No other than pop-superstar LADY GAGA wore some of his designs. This would have been a big compliment for any designer but especially for Thomas Hanisch since LADY GAGA is one of his Inspirations. „The woman who wears my clothes is definitely very confident and strong. She does not care what others think. No, she even wants to be looked at, because she wants to show with pride what fashion is capable of“, this was Thomas Hanisch´s answer to the question „What kind of women he imagines to wear his clothes?“ in an Interview with SUPERIOR MAGAZINE. Besides exceptional and fashionable women the young designer also seeks his inspiration from historical events. By his own account he was fascinated by Greek mythology ever since he was a little boy. His inducement is translating history into presence and to create wearable art. Clothes that you could not imagine to wear but in fact they are more then wearable.
To hard techno beats the models walked gracefully like queens on the catwalk. The looks reminiscent of royal robes from distant galaxies with a touch of punk. A symbiosis of avant-garde and prêt-a-porter. Opening look of the show was a thigh long fake fur coat in burgundy with a frame made of leather, which resembled a hoop skirt from the 18th century. These leather items ran through the entire collection. The silhouettes were drawn long with an emphasis on the neck by stiff upstanding collars, extremely high-mounted , wide shoulder pads and turtlenecks. Capes, box jackets, leather mini skirts, and straight leg pants were portable elements. Fancy dresses in mermaid style, in which the flared skirt looked at his feet, as if they were flying over the ground were the highlights. Psychedelic digital prints and stripes gave the collection a galactic-style look. The color palette consisted of raspberry, bordeaux, gray, aubergine, black, petrol and nude. Loud and warm colors, suitable for an A/W collection. The choice of materials was an exciting interplay of leather, fake fur, latex and cotton. Hair and make-up were ??the icing on the cake: The hair turned to small snails or braided in cornrows maintained by tons of golden hair clips and smeared, red lipstick. Radical and extravagant.
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Interview (in German) with Thomas Hanisch in our free iPad App "SUPERIOR CITY Berlin
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Watch the interview with RIANI's head of design Ulrich Schulte on the SUPERIOR YOUTUBE Channel
photos JULIAN MARTINI
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ESTHER PERBANDT BACKSTAGE
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INTERVIEW: FINN JUNIPER DENARO Not many models can claim that they were booked for five top fashion shows during their first season of modeling. However, that’s just what 21 year old FINN JUNIPER DENARO achieved during BERLIN FASHION WEEK A/W 2015.
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text Biki John | photos Mercedes-Benz Fashion
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I caught up with the “blue-grey sometimes green eyed” uber-energetic Australian to learn more about his recent success during BERLIN FASHION WEEK and how he intends to use his modelling career to initiate positive social changes in his community.
# What was your favourite show to walk in and why?
# Hello Finn, tell us how you were discovered.
# How did you prepare for the gruelling schedule that comes with fashion week?
Last summer, I was staying at a friend’s house in Hamburg and two of the girls who lived there happened to be studying fashion design. They liked my “long-haired, outdoorsy” look and asked me to model for their graduate collection. I had also just finished a four-year stint travelling abroad, and was looking for a job. When I asked the girls for any leads, they told me to try modelling and recommended I go to CORE MANAGEMENT. The next day I went to the agency, got signed immediately and here we are.
Before Fashion Week, I did rock climbing like crazy in “Der Kegel”. That’s how I enjoy staying fit.
# What’s your hometown? Margaret River, Western Australia. Margaret River is a very small town. It’s got huge waves which are awesome for surfing… # (Laughs): …Duuuuude, huuuuge waves maaan… (Laughs) …Yeah! Huuge waves, Cowabunga!! Margaret River is also full of bushes and tall trees which are great for rock climbing. # Berlin Fashion Week ended not too long ago, which designers did you walk for? DYN Menswear, ALEKS KURKOWSKI, RIKE FEURSTEIN, JULIAN ZIGERLI and P & C. -71-
(Laughs) … That’s easy, RIKE FEURSTEIN because I got to walk with a big, white, fluffy poodle!
# Why is that? In life we all have our long-term goals, but I think small short-term goals are equally important, as they give you the confidence you need to achieve bigger things. When you’re rock climbing and you complete the objective of clearing the top of the wall: it’s really rewarding! # Getting booked for 5 shows during your first season is pretty impressive, what do you think was the reason behind your success? I drilled myself with the objective that I was going to make it. I convinced myself that having just entered a new and foreign industry, I was going to do everything in my power to understand how the fashion industry works and master what I could do to get the best out of it. # Impressive, good strategy. What do you think about when you are walking on the runway? My mind is filled with very graphic images of poverty I’ve seen: both first-hand in my recent travels and in documentaries like, The Salt Of The Earth.
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want to discuss political or social issues? I mean I will, but we live in a world where people more or less put you in boxes. I think it is possible, during fashion week I met people all across the board - designers, models, PRs, buyers etc. - and I engaged with them on the social topics I’m very passionate about and they seemed very interested and supportive. # And what do you dislike most about modelling so far? The wrong and judgemental ideas that people have towards it. # Coming from Western Australia, how have you found settling in Sin City?
ALEKS KURKOWSKI Show
# Well, I certainly wasn’t expecting that answer. If you could name one thing you like most about modelling so far, what would it be? I like the fact that it gives me the opportunity to become well-known…famous. Because I would like to use that fame to connect with a wide audience and tackle the social changes I would like to see in society. For instance, right now, I’m working on an App that will integrate the money-raising events (e.g. busking) that happen on the street in particular areas. # If you do achieve that level of fame, as a model, do you think that people will actually listen to what you have to say when you -72-
It was a smooth transition, I’ve always used music as a way to integrate into new communities. So in Berlin, I went to open mic nights and met some cool people. # I can see your hair is ‘your thing’, how do you keep those shiny locks? I wash my hair every 2-3 days using whatever I find, and then I apply coconut oil. and looks and solutions that make the VEJAteam happy. That is how we make sure we love our products and can make our customers happy, too! # Apart from modelling, what else do you do? Via a free education platform called Khan Academy, I’m studying JavaScript programming and animation. I also write for a magazine called, Berlinlogs.com. In my free time,
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I like to play the didgeridoo, beat box, go to open mic nights... I also love to write lyric poetry and stories for kids, perhaps one day I’ll publish some.
# (Rolls Eyes) Oohhh Myyy God: Come On! Then again, you’ve been doing this for a few months, let me ask you this same question in a few years!
# How has modelling changed your personal style?
Well, that’s the thing, so far I’ve only had positivity and success, but if there comes a point where I’m getting continuous rejection, I’ll move on.
I wear a lot more black and it’s definitely made me a lot more conscious of my hair! (laughs) It’s like if I cut it off, it’s all over for me! I was also told I look good in hats and to wear one to castings, so now I wear more hats… # (Laughs) So now you’re stuck with this hat on your head for the rest of your life! Well, it’s good that modelling is developing your style. How do you deal with the rejection that comes hand in hand with being a model? I don’t see it as rejection, I see it as something I need to work on.
# Tell us something most people don’t know about you? I can run and backflip of a wall. In fact, I did that in my audition for Julian Zigerli. # Great party trick! Finally, how will you know when you’ve made ‘it’ as a model? I’ll know I’ve made ‘it’, when I don’t have to do it anymore. Then I’ll probably move on to something else, acting perhaps…
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MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN
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photography by JANA GERBERDING @ KSTIEGEMEYER photography assistants MAX RUBIN SCIBB & MALTE SEIDEL styling by ISABELLE THIRY @ BIGOUDI styling assistant NAUVA hair by HAUKE KRAUSE @ KULT ARTISTS make up by ANNA NEUGEBAUER @ BIGOUDI model MAGABI @ AM MODELMANAGEMENT
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IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, IT WILL LAST FOREVER Postbahnhof, Berlin, 19 – 21 January 15
SALONSHOW SELECTION: SUSTAINABLE FASHION INTERVIEW: OLAF SCHMIDT & MAGDALENA SCHAFFRIN
green showroom 19 — 21 january 15 Postbahnhof, Berlin
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GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN While the market of ecologically and ethically fair fashion is expanding constantly, the GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN combined their trade fairs at one location, the Postbahnhof, and therewith created a special atmosphere for eco-fashion to prove its credibility and style.
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text SARAH WEYERS | photos Timur Emek / Getty Images
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Although some of the almost 100 exhibitors were obviously in the eco fashion business and had the clear intention of displaying that fact in their design, most of the collections were very fashionable. Some brands, such as LANIUS from Cologne, were even hard to recognize as “eco fashion”. The old cliché of “eco-fashion looking eco” is obviously outdated. What is always a great aspects to the GREENSHOWROOM and the ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN is that the great variety of styles is displayed: next to sustainable sportswear from London and backpacks straight from the skating range there are also silk dresses and wool coats. “BOXX” (SILKBOXX/WALKBOXX) are the perfect example of the well working combination of opposites: light, feminine dresses alongside heavy coats – and all of it completely eco-friendly.
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The “Salonshow” was yet again a chance and platform for eco fashion to prove the diversity and modern look of ethically and socially fair produced clothes. At the catwalk more than 70 outfits were presented by 24 designers like DEEPMELLO, ESMOD BERLIN International University of Art for Fashion, FARRAH FLOYD, WALKBOXX/SILKBOXX and many more. The looks were very modern and stylish and yet again proved, how fashionable eco-design actually is. Between denim, studs, fringes and transparency there was a look for every preference – edgy, classy, feminine, business-chic; another proof for the great variety of sustainable fashion. We are already excided to see how much more green fashion will develop and what is expecting us at next season’s show.
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Read the Interviews with BOXX, DEEPMELLO, FARRAH FLOYD, FORMAT, GOODSOCIETY, KANCHA and L'HERBE ROUGE in our SUPERIOR DIGITAL January 2015 issue
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Read the Interview with Olaf Schmidt and Magdalena Schaffrin in our SUPERIOR DIGITAL January 2015 issue
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NOVEMBER 2014
The International Talent Contest for Fashion & Design Call for Entry – Motto 2015
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PREMIUM
WUNDERWERK PREMIUM IMPRESSIONS INTERVIEW: ANITA TILLMANN
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text SARAH WEYERS photos WUNDERWERK
WUNDERWERK Great design, a big variety of looks, denims, tye-dye, shirts and jackets – if nobody tells you, you would never guess: The Duesseldorf based brand WUNDERWERK is completely sustainable, vegan and eco-friendly. A normal pair of jeans usually costs the environment about 100-160 liters of perfectly drinkable water, which was also one factor for TIM BRUECKMANN and HEIKO WUNDER, manager and designer of the brand, to work on and eventually change. Another factor for the fairness and transparency of the label is buying and using yarn, buttons and other parts of the product from countries close to Germany, therewith guaranteeing a certain level of quality, the creation of workplaces and fair payment of the workers. Every crude material that is used in a WUNDERWERKproduct is either from ecological cultivation or biological animal farming.
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The brand is 100% eco. You could say that WUNDERWERK is Duesseldorf’s pioneer in green fashion. So during the BERLIN FASHION WEEK in January, visiting the label at the PREMIUM trade fair was a must. Presenting the latest collection at PREMIUM was meant as a statement, because the label’s philosophy is simple: great design, fashionable pieces, individual looks and a perfectly transparent and conscious way of producing. One wish for the future would be a completely self-evident and natural way of producing any garment, without displaying it for marketing reasons. A great product that is (of course!) made, traded and sold ethically and ecologically correct. But that is on the future… Until then, we will probably meet the two at many more Fashion Weeks; always in the Premium Segment.
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Read the Interview with Anita Tillmann in our SUPERIOR DIGITAL January 2015 issue
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SEEK
VEJA KERBHOLZ QWSTION INTERVIEW: OLIVER SAUNDERS & MAREN WIEBUS
c o n t e m p or a r y f a s hi o n t r a de s ho w
autumn / winter 2015 / 16 N E W L O C AT I O N
J a n u a r y 1 9 th - 2 1 st 2 0 1 5 ARENA BERLIN
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text SARAH WEYERS photos VEJA
VEJA VEJA has been founded in 2004 by François-Ghislain Morillon and Sébastien Kopp who creates the designs and looks. VEJA’s materials are organic cotton from Brazil as well as rubber from the Arizonian forest and fish skin and leather that otherwise would have went to waste – the animal skins do not come from leather farms, but from farms that produce meat. Sarah Weyers talked to designer Sébastien Kopp for SUPERIOR MAGAZINE at one of Berlin’s most popular fashion fairs, SEEK, to find out more about his label and the vision he has, not only for fashion, but also for the market – and the world. # Sébastien, your products are all produced fair with ecological und sustainable materials, as well as they are manufactured in Europe. Is it expensive to operate like that? No. I mean, it surely has its costs to only buy fish skin and leather that we know where
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it comes from to provide transparency, produce in Europe and use organic cotton from Brazil and wild rubber, but we have our tactics and ways to provide an affordable shoe that is completely fair – for every one. # What are these tactics? We don’t do advertising. No magazines, no posters, no commercials. We save all the money that other companies put into marketing and advertising their name and product into the production of the actual thing we are selling, which is not a logo or a brand, but a shoe. Which is why our sneakers cost about the same as any other fashionable sneaker on the market – although it is sustainable.
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# If you say your shoes are about the same price as “normal” sneakers, why do you think “green fashion” has such a bad image? People think it is too expensive or even just not fashionable at all, why do think it is that way? Because many brands that popped up and started make a “green” product focused to much on the background and not enough on the looks of it. Socially and ecologically correct products were often not fashionable and good looking, but instead only attracted the older generation that didn’t care about the way it looked, but only about the way it was made. And that changed a lot. Simply these fairs here in Berlin show how much that changed. There are fairs solely for fair fashion and here at “SEEK” and “PREMIUM” brands present their great looking collections – and they have a transparent and amazing background too. # So you would say that the market is constantly changing and becoming more aware of the backgrounds? Definitely. Taking a look at the last year and the last season is enough: so many new brands popped up and showed that it is possible to be super fashionable and stylish and green. I could name 20 in a heartbeat. Finally, the looks have become just as important as the working conditions and the ecological affects, which is great! Many brands don’t even declare themselves as “green” anymore, because the focus is on their fashion and only when you ask and start a dialogue, you find out that you can wear them without feeling bad about it.
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# You say that “now people change their attitude”. Your brand has been around for a while now though. Why did you start? It was an adventure. We were two crazy French guys with 3000 € and wanted to make a difference. We traveled through Brazil and we wanted to find materials that were different and that could make a product that could one day change the game. And we did. We use rubber from the Arizonian forest, tan our leather, which is exclusively from meatproducing farms – that way it is a product of waste and animals are not killed for their skin, but for their meat – with vegetables. So the shoes are green without looking like it! # Who designs your not-green-lookingshoes? Who does your design? I do it. I am my own customer. # What exactly do you mean by that? I mean that I design shoes that I want to wear. I design what I like – which is why I can sell my product with confidence – because I really like it (laughs). Our team from VEJA is the customer we try to please first. When we all agree or disagree on something we know it would not be successful. We all have a different taste and a different opinion on things, which is why we try to find designs and looks and solutions that make the VEJAteam happy. That is how we make sure we love our products and can make our customers happy, too!
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# My last question is how you see other brands. Do you think big brands have already changed their ways of producing and promoting their product or are in the process of doing so? Or do you think that labels that have their stand in the fashion industry are not under pressure? I think that some labels have realized the importance of sustainability and credibility but don’t do enough to make it “real”. Some declare and pretend to be fair when they are not transparent at all. Some only say that “in the future” they will take care of the problem. But making a statement and pushing your responsibility away from you is not good. Not for the brand, neither for the market. You have to have a vision and talk about things you have already done to make the world a better place, not mention what you might or might not do. Do something and then talk about it. Do something and change the world and then talk about it. # Thank you very much for your time.
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text SARAH WEYERS photos KERBHOLZ
KERBHOLZ KERBHOLZ glasses and watches have been around for a little while now. The four boys don’t only convince with their classy designs and modern interpretation of timeless trends, but also with their charming philosophy. “Giving back” is their theory. Sarah Weyers met up with three of the four guys for SUPERIOR MAGAZINE at SEEK exhibition during BERLIN FASHION WEEK and asked them what their “giving back” looks like… # Since when does the label exist and how did you guys start? What was your inspiration? We started in 2012. I (Moritz) had been studying in Mexico for a while and the south of it is basically a jungle. We started looking around and there were so many types of wood that are really beautiful so we thought it was a shame they are pretty much only used for little stuff nobody uses. We did some research and found out that during the
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70’s there was actually a trend with wooden glasses so we thought: “This might work again!” Back again we were the only brand in Europe that made wooden accessories, but that has changed quiet a lot by now. (laughs) # But you don’t only sell accessories. What is your philosophy? First of all, we are a fashion brand; a fashion brand with a vision. We are like the Bauhaus in architecture, but in accessories. And we want to give something back for everything we take from “mother nature”. # And how do you do that? For every sold product we have, which includes glasses as well as the watches, we plant one tree in Nicaragua. It’s a great project and very transparent. On the website you can even see how many trees have been
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planted. And we want to give something back for everything we take from “mother nature”. # So KERBHOLZ is that transparent that you even openly say how many products have been sold? Didn’t you have any concerns with showing that? Oh we did! (laughs) But you know, I think it is more important to stick to your promises and visions. It seemed like a logical thing to do all along – we take something from nature - the wood – and we want to give that back. Also, the website only displays the items sold during the last year; that way, it isn’t risky for us to display it at all (laughs) # Was there any emotional reason for you to connect the charity project with Kerbholz? Well, after being in Mexico for a while you kind of get a different feeling for nature again. Also, it seemed like a logical thing to do: take and give back. # After all, do you think that your social standards are one of the main reasons for your success? There is definitely a great development to a more conscious way of consuming, so I think that people are always happy to see brands participating in such projects. But overall, since that is ot what we mainly advertise with, I think that the focus is still on the design and our product – and we eventually leave a positive impression with the direct connection to nature. # Thank you so much for your time!
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text SARAH WEYERS photos QWSTION
QWSTION When the Swiss label QWSTION first stared developing their products, the question they were facing was “How do we want to produce?” And since the next question following naturally would be “where will that be?” they had to come up with a place and partner that would fit their high expectations. Since the textile industry has a bad reputation after many catastrophes (for example Rana Plaza), Asia did not seem to be a good choice – until they found the right partner. Just outside of Hong Kong, a small, independent facility of production manufactures QWSTION’s prototypes, that are designed and developed in Zurich, but: in rather Western European circumstances and conditions. As a member of the BSCI (Business and Social Compliance Initiative), QWSTION works with conditions that have been guidelines to and from the European Union and are therewith the same as in European countries. But not only the con-
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ditions for the workers are different and innovative, also the technical work is a big stead ahead of the game: A new development in the production is keeping the rest of the yarn of eco-cotton and weaves it back into the cotton fabric. This does not only create a beautiful result in terms of looks, but is also sustainable. “Rawcycled” combines individual looks and fair, modern ways of recycling. Being true to themselves, QWSTION’s perspective from day one has always been: “ask good questions and you will get good answers”. To find out more about the philosophy of QWSTION and why “Made in China” is not necessarily “made in China” Sarah Weyers talked to them for SUPERIOR MAGAZINE right after SEEK where they presented their latest collection.
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# Why do you think eco- or sustainable fashion has such a bad image and how was the feedback you got from Berlin Fashion Week? Some time ago there were barely any brands that found a good balance of fairness and good design. That is, fortunately, changing and we want to be a part of that change, that movement. Yet, the people that are conscious about where the products they consume come from, are the minority. The SEEK exhibition during Berlin Fashion Week was a great success for us. Many people from different parts of the industry told us that our individual and authentic look is a big advantage we have to other “fair” brands and the materials we use got a great feedback, too. # What materials do you use? Why did you get such a good response to them? Three years ago we started using our self-developed organic-cotton-fabric and we are constantly expanding the percentage we use of that in every collection. It’s still a long road ahead of us but we are constantly working on it, because we are so convinced of the philosophy. By now, half of our products are made of GOTS-certified cotton. # When you say that it has been such hard work to develop the cotton you use, as well as producing with GOTS-certified cotton, is the production much more expensive? Yes. Since no pesticides are used to harvest the cotton, the harvest is obviously much smaller than it is in the process of using chemicals. The problem with that is
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that the consumer needs to be willing to spend more money on a “good” product. The consumer needs to want more information. The consumer needs to want the change. We can only offer the products, but the market still offers very cheap clothes and accessories that have obviously been produced in poor conditions. The thinking and appreciation of fashion needs to change, but we are definitely going in the right direction. # The production of QWSTION is in China. While your dogma is “question the norm”, how do you question it? Producing in Asia has a terrible reputation, how are you working against that and showing that it is also possible to produce elsewise than from what the majority thinks? That is true. Our organic-cotton is from Central Asia and the manufacturing of our bags takes place close to Hong Kong. We are in the process of implementing the BSCIStandards to achieve working conditions that are confirm with EU-standards. Also, it is a small, independent production-facility, in which even the owners work every day, which is also very different from how big companies work in Asia. # Would you say that a change of mind is also a goal of your label for the future? Definitely. The process of changing someone’s attitude towards something is always hard work and takes some time. We want to make people think about where their product comes from, as well as being willing to invest in someone’s innovative idea and design. By expanding our thought we would not only create new jobs, but also change the market – step by step.
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# So you say that working with a transparent production and enough information for the consumer on how the product was made and where, that this is the first step to a “better” and “more green” industry? Yes. And reliable standards and certificates that guarantee a certain level of either working conditions, wages, fabrics and much more. # Since half of the products you have were made from GOTS-certified cotton; would you say that using these certificates has been a big factor in your success? Do people want verification and security when they buy a product? Absolutely. The number of people that are conscious about ethics and ecology is growing; still the image of being “green” is a little cliché – but we’re working on it! # Thank you for the interview.
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Read the Interview with Oliver Saunders & Maren Wiebus in our SUPERIOR DIGITAL January 2015 issue
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