Dining
Dining
Out of the Blue by Michele Peterson & Susan Campbell You never know what surprise Neptune will offer up each day on this island. But one thing you can be certain of is that Aruba’s talented, creative chefs know just how to prepare it so you’ll think it came straight from the heavens instead of fresh out of the sea!
Aruba’s sustenance existence has always been tightly tethered to the sea, and even today, many local fishermen don’t operate all that differently than they did centuries ago. Many still only use the handline method where there’s nothing between you and the fish but the boat and the line. It’s the purest form of fishing dating back to the ancients. Though there are larger operators using more modern equipment now, this style is still practiced by those who seek a more personal connection between their skills, the fish, and the sea. Last year, one local fisherman caught a whopping 385-pound grouper that way. Mind you, he needed help from two other fishermen nearby to get it into the boat! You’ll see their boats moored along the piers outside of Hadicurari Restaurant, between MooMba and the Marriott’s Surf Club on Palm Beach, and you can buy fresh catch off them as they come in. Nos Clubhuis, above Hadicurari, is also the location of the Aruba Reef Care Foundation, one of the groups tasked with protecting the reefs. They also spearhead the island’s important lionfish eradication program. This invasive species doesn’t belong here, and without natural predators they are eating everything in sight! Thankfully many chefs on Aruba have jumped in to find clever ways to serve up lionfish; it’s light and flaky, and you can help by ordering it whenever you see it on a menu. You’ll see lionfish ceviche, lionfish fritters, and even lionfish sushi
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as just some of the options. Eat ’em to beat ’em is the motto. Look for them on the chalkboard specials as well. Though some of the small operators moor in the Oranjestad marina as well (it’s where the major large deep-sea fishing charters depart from), historically, most of the fishing has revolved around Savaneta along the island’s southwestern coast. You’ll note lots of little shacks dotted around that region on little uninhabited atolls, and that’s where they store their gear. Common catches include wahoo, mahi-mahi, red snapper, kingfish, bonito, barracuda, black tuna, yellowfin tuna, and sometimes grouper. If you want to see the process in action, you can watch them unload their fresh treasures at Zeerovers, in Savaneta, where you can sample them fried up on the spot at their surfside pier restaurant. It’s become a very popular lunch spot for visitors during the week, and on weekends it’s a favorite local haunt. Go native or go fancy
Arubans typically eat their fish simply grilled or fried, topped with a rich red creole sauce and spiced with fiery papaya pepper sauce. The regional specialty called keri keri takes advantage of leftovers; it’s a dish of shredded whitefish, sometimes shark meat, and seasoned with annatto and peppers. And the locally caught rock lobster is definitely a treat. It’s different than Maine lobster as it’s smaller, firmer, and sweeter and holds up better than its larger counterpart on a grill. E
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Dining
Though simple and fresh is delightful, Aruba’s chefs like to get creative with both domestic and imported fish and seafood. They serve them up with sumptuous sauces, surprising seasonings, and prepare them in avant garde ways. Ceviche is the fastest track to fancy here – a popular mix of lime-marinated fish or shrimp with cilantro and onion – and you’ll find many different variations of the classic Latin style often featuring the distinctive and fiery Madame Jeanette pepper. Aruba’s Asian heritage can be seen sometimes with the combination of sesame oil and ginger. Playful extras can include fresh-popped popcorn, coconut milk, and diced green apple for crunch; some places will make it tableside so you can watch the process. On the more international front, typical sauces to add flair to fish and seafood include lemon garlic sauce, a perennial favorite when it comes to pan-fried or grilled fish as the caramelized butter gives a boost of flavor. Creamy red curries are ideal for adding some heat to mild fish such as grouper. Sturdier fish such as salmon, swordfish, and shark are often grilled and paired with a creamy risotto. But your best bet is to trust what the chef comes up with as the special of the day.
Catch your own dinner
Seafood surprises
For those seeking bigger fish to fry, this island also has great deep-sea fishing, and catches can include wahoo, mahi-mahi, kingfish, albacore, yellowfin tuna, black tuna, barracuda, and marlin. You can actually have your own catch fried up for your dinner that very night in a restaurant if you go with Driftwood Fishing Charters. That’s what frequent Aruba visitor Krista Ahlers from Minnesota did with her group of six family members. She says, “Driftwood has been one of our must-visit restaurants since we started visiting the island, and last time we finally did a deep-sea fishing charter with them. It was an excellent experience, and my 19-year-old daughter was thrilled to catch a 35-pound wahoo! The chef at Driftwood served it up to our entire group in four different variations as a huge communal platter. It came pan-fried Aruban style with creole sauce, sautéed with wine, Pernod, and garlic, blackened with Caribbean peach sauce, and with their house white wine sauce. The entire adventure was first-class from the scheduling, communication, booking, fishing, preparation, and dining. I highly recommend it.” You can also choose your preparation preferences and your server can recommend the best way depending on your catch. For example, barracuda is best blackened, and wahoo would be better served up with a creole sauce.
Of course, there are scads of seafood dishes available on this island served up in as many incarnations as one can imagine. How about shrimp piña colada or panseared scallops with bacon, pumpkin, and hazelnut oil? Stews and soups are popular options for enjoying a wealth of seafood in one bowl. And for a tropical touch, coconut milk adds flair to a classic bouillabaisse. You can also go absolutely overboard raiding the island’s humongous raw bars. Dive into big buffets overflowing with everything from oysters, clams, and mussels to smoked salmon, tuna tataki, and crab legs. Superbly prepared squid, octopus, and escargots are on offer and Maine lobster as well! Aruban restaurants provide seafood lovers the best choices not only from local waters but also from the oceans around the world. You can sample Aruba’s bounty of fish and seafood in so many enchanting settings; it won’t matter whether you’re inside in modern air-conditioned comfort or surfside with your feet right in the water. The incredible ocean cuisine served here will transport your taste buds straight to heaven every time. K
Courtesy of Driftwood
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