Culinary Artists by Susan Campbell Aruba’s ongoing love affair with fine food is reflected in the vast amount of culinary talent that flocks here from all over the world. But what separates a good chef from a great chef? Many things.
It takes much more than talent in the kitchen to become a great chef. There are many personality traits and solid work skills that are inherently important to becoming a success in this profession. Though creativity, imagination, artistry, and a proclivity for risk-taking are all part of what separates the wheat from the chaff, there’s also a great need for patience, persistence, and determination to succeed. It’s a very competitive arena. A good chef must also be a good teacher, trainer, and often a mentor to lead the next generation of culinary talent into the spotlight. And they must be budget conscious as well. There’s seldom a time when the sky’s the limit for exotic ingredient purchases, so they need to be resourceful and learn to work around limitations without compromising on quality, creativity, or consistency. It’s a tough balancing act.
16
A great chef is often also keenly in touch with the emotional appeal of food. They know that flavors can stir all the senses, rekindle a fond memory, transport to another place or time, awaken a buried longing, or satisfy a deep craving. They should be able to tap into their own emotional vault in order to recreate these feelings in their creations and share them with others. On Aruba, the culinary talent comes not only from this island, but also from all over the world with the food offered spanning more than 90 different nationalities! And though each individual chef brings their own background and experience to the table, one thing the great ones all have in common is a burning passion for their craft. Let’s meet a few of this island’s best… !
17
Chef Patrick van der Donk
Chef de Cuisine Luis Malagon
AMUSE SUNSET RESTAURANT
BLT STEAK, THE RITZ-CARLTON, ARUBA
Growing up in Holland’s “Duke’s Forest,” Patrick van der Donk learned early the importance of using imagination when cooking as so much depended on seasonal availability. After many years studying culinary arts under famous chefs in the Netherlands and Australia, Chef Patrick moved to Aruba and met his wife, professional sommelier, Ivette, and opened Amuse Bistro on the Palm Beach strip. They have since relocated to a gorgeous new seaside oasis and rechristened it Amuse Sunset Restaurant due to the views. This is now where you’ll find the duo creating delightful three and five-course surprise menus paired with wines while raising their very energetic threeyear-old triplets! (Chefs in training, perhaps?)
Chef Luis found his first taskmaster in the kitchen tough to please – it was his mother! An excellent home cook, she taught him well, which inspired him to attend Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts program in Arizona. After graduation, he honed his skills at Marriott hotels in Laguna Niguel before transferring to The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba, to become chef de cuisine of their restaurant, BLT steakhouse. The BLT concept is designed to replicate a classic New York style steakhouse. But being an international brand, it’s their famous weekly “Blackboard Menu” that allow their chefs to incorporate local and regional flavors and use their imaginations to create spectacular offerings well beyond world-class steak. S I G N AT U R E D I S H
Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb Though delighting with innovative surprises is this chef ’s specialty, one dish always on the menu that keeps customers raving for more is his rack of lamb. It’s a melt-in-your-mouth preparation of meat coated in mustard, thyme, rosemary, and Parmesan cheese, topped with rosemary sauce and served with sweet potato gratin.
S I G N AT U R E D I S H
Porterhouse 36 oz (for two) Though large enough to share, fanatic carnivores might not be willing to once they taste this succulent cut of USDA 28-day, dry-aged beef naturally aged for ultimate tenderness. But you can always share the signature warm popovers, and the excellent dipping sauces and spectacular sunsets are easily shareable too!
Chef Dennis Hoekstra
Chef Urvin Croes
QUINTA DEL CARMEN
WHITE MODERN CUISINE
Chef Dennis began cooking alongside his grandmother in the tiny town of Harlingen in the Netherlands. He later studied the culinary arts, and then did his last year of working internship on Aruba. Soon after his return to the Netherlands, he missed Aruba’s weather so he moved back to the island and began working at Barefoot restaurant. When the owners opened Quinta Del Carmen he transferred there. He says he especially shines when he can work with fresh seafood, and lately he’s begun experimenting with American style barbecue like slow roasted meats. “But every week my colleagues and I are experimenting, creating different specials, and trying out new things. I love it here.”
Urvin Croes left his native home of Aruba to study culinary arts in the Netherlands. He worked in many Michelin-star restaurants and then returned to introduce the island to his new passion: molecular gastronomy! He loves the reactions he can produce with food via science, but he also promotes true traditional Aruban cooking, so he combines them both to create a brand new taste experience. You can sample his artistic, avant-garde dishes at his indoor/outdoordining venue, White Modern Cuisine, at the Gold Coast Clubhouse. Or watch the molecular master at work up close in an intimate open setting called The Kitchen Table by White at the Blue Residences. S I G N AT U R E D I S H
Shrimp Piña Colada Inspired by Aruba’s happy hours, Chef Dennis says the Shrimp Piña Colada is just one of the unique specialties that draws diners to their unique restaurant. It incorporates the perfect blend of tropical sweet, island spicy, and is topped by a spirited coconut-pineapple sauce that tastes like the famous cocktail. 18
Top left photo courtesy of Amuse Sunset Restaurant. Other photos by Steve Keith
S I G N AT U R E D I S H
Hoisin Glazed Duck Though the chef prefers you let him delight with his three- and five-course sampling menus, he does recommend this fan favorite appetizer that’s always available: pan-fried hoisin glazed duck breast served with apple and orange compote, pickled cucumbers, crispy rice chips, hoisin and maple glaze, and a peanut powder. 19