Dining
Dining
He started with sea grapes because they thrived in Aruba’s harsh climate, and locals were already using them to make jelly so why not wine? After a lot of experimentation, such as adding other na tural ingredients like cashew juice, he finally came up with some drinkable wine. But it was hard going as sea grapes contain very little juice. So Vicente decided to branch out and make “real wine”. He planted some cuttings of popular European varieties like Merlot, Sauvignon
The Wine Wizard
Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and even some Mediterranean types, and surprisingly found the island’s inherently sandy soil was a blessing rather than a curse. He says, “Grapes seem to prefer poor quality soil.” But he also found he had to pamper his exotic produce. He gives them only na tural fertilizers, lots of water, and dotes on them daily by pruning and protecting and even talking to them. “You have to have a love of the art and really persevere!” says Vicente.
Once the grapes are ripe, they are fermented in large wooden barrels and later transferred to large glass bottles. Once clear of sediment, they sit in stainless steel containers for a few months. It can take close to a year from vine to glass! “Vino Vince”, as locals call him, now has over 100 vines that produce around 800 bunches per harvest and yield ap proximately 400 bottles. And though he has had interest from international wine tasters, he has no plans to export or expand. “It’s purely a labor of love,” he explains; but he does love to share the fruits of his labors. Tasting before purchase is a must, although you never know what variety you might sample because Vicente loves to experiment. You can be sure that whatever he serves will be delightful, unique, and created with the kind of instinctual wizardry that marks a true master vintner. K
Tours are offered on Monday and Thursday at 10 a.m. in Santa Cruz (Sombre 22-A). Call 585-3995 or 567-6623 for an appointment and directions.
by Susan Campbell Aruba’s desert-like climate means you have to possess almost supernatural powers to coax anything to grow here. But this man seems to have the magic touch when it comes to growing grapes. Meet Aruba’s only vintner – Vicente Kock.
It’s worth the road trip out to Vicente’s home in the Santa Cruz countryside, that locals simply call mondi, to witness the winemaking wizard at work. And you’ll be expected to tour before you taste! Behind the house, 73-year-old Vicente patiently walks you through his little vineyard, anticipating questions and enlightening you on the different varieties of grapes while explaining the many challenges of grow ing them here. Besides the arid climate, pests and birds eager to get at his juicy treasures plague Vicente’s vineyard. “I have an ongoing war with these birds,” he says. “They watch me from atop the cactus, waiting for me to leave so they can swoop in! But I’m smarter now.” He points to the plastic bottles surrounding the grape bun ches. “I figured out how to keep them away from my precious plants!” 68 Nights
So when did this unlikely interest in winemaking begin? “When I was a young boy, I admired the vine in a neighbor’s yard, and really wanted to pick and taste the fruit, but the elderly man was always home so I could only admire them from afar.” Even though Vicente had a career in real estate for most of his adult life, he
never forgot that alluring vine and vowed to grow his own grapes one day. The day came 25 years later when an American tourist who published a magazine for amateur winemakers gave him a wine starter kit as a gift. That was all the encouragement Vicente needed to begin the hobby that would become a lifelong passion. E
Photos by Roy Maduro
Photos by Roy Maduro
Nights Photos by Roy69 Maduro