The Beauty of Brunch by Susan Campbell The all-you-can-eat brunch buffet is a culinary cornucopia that can make any Sunday a superbly special occasion.
Brunch beginnings Have you ever wondered how breakfast collided with lunch to evolve into this midday extravaganza we call brunch? On Aruba, the all-inclusive Sunday buffet was introduced by American visitors, but “brunching” is actually a British innovation. Though Sunday brunch really took root in North America in the 1930s, the concept originated in Europe in the 1800s. In fact, the word “brunch” (the blend of the terms breakfast and lunch) was first coined in 1895 by Guy Beringer, a British writer who penned an article in Hunter’s Weekly magazine entitled “Brunch: A Plea”. He pleaded for the introduction of a new meal that began around noon to replace the early, heavy after-church Sunday repast so as to make life brighter for “Saturday-night carousers”. He also predicted that brunch would“sweep away the cobwebs and 8
the worries of the week”. His plea seems to have been heard, as evidenced by an article that appeared a year later in the British magazine Punch that stated “to be fashionable nowadays we must ‘brunch’”. Through the ages, the freedom to partake in feasts of bacchanalian proportions at a leisurely pace was a privilege reserved for the most affluent. But as the average family income increased, the practice eventually extended to the middle classes where the ability to put out lavish, eclectic spreads for Sunday guests became a symbol of spiraling status. As cosmopolitan hotels and restaurants in America began serving it, going out for brunch became an opportunity for friends and family to gather and a perfect way to give women a break from their domestic duties, especially on Mother’s Day. 왘 Top photo by Kelly Cline. Facing page photo by John Keith
9
Great egg-spectations Even as more meats, fowl, fish and seafood began infiltrating the basic brunch menu, good old egg dishes have always been, and still are, one of the most important parts of this meal’s appeal. Brunch would not be what it is without those oval-shaped chameleons that can accommodate almost any savory ingredient so well. Eggs – sunnyside up, over, scrambled and whipped into French toast or folded into interesting omelets – are all de rigueur brunch fare. But the classiest stars of the brunch venue are more complicated creations like eggs Benedict – a poached egg nestled atop a slice of back bacon and an English muffin and covered in hollandaise sauce – or eggs Florentine made in almost the same way except also featuring spinach and cheese. But the best-loved, egginspired brunch dishes (for cooks, anyway) are those that can be baked ahead and reheated at serving time without compromising texture or flavor. Quiche is one of these. Today, there are
10
many variations of quiche, but the original single-crust French tart called quiche Lorraine was a 16th-century recipe calling only for a mixture of egg, smoked bacon and cream custard. Other make-ahead egg favorites include the Italian-style frittata, a pan-fried mishmash of ingredients that is later broiled to give it a crust, and strata, a baked egg casserole distinguished by different layers of other ingredients. Pan pleasures We have ancient civilizations to thank for the pancakes and crepes that grace most brunch buffets. Using hot rocks as Mother Nature’s very first frying pans, humans soon learned that blending ingredients such as ground oats, wheat, barley, rye and even potatoes with eggs and milk and topping them with flavorings like wild honey made for some great eating. Almost every culture has developed its version of pan “cakes”, from potato latkes, to blinis, flapjacks and even tortillas. France’s very thin pancakes, called crepes, often do double duty at brunch. Filled with meat, seafood, cheeses, vegetables and rich sauces for the main affair, they switch easily to fresh and preserved fruit drizzled in sweet syrups and slathered in whipped cream for dessert. The Dutch enjoy crepes filled with their signature cheeses while Curaçao locals prefer to flavor their pancakes with pumpkin. On Aruba, Johnny cakes (plain pancakes) have been widely adopted as a local dish though their original recipe is West Indian. Whatever they are flavored or filled with, pan and griddle goodies are integral components of an authentic brunch. 왘
Top left photo by Oliver Hutton. Bottom left photo by Elena Elisseeva. Bottom right photo by Floortje
Brunch beverages Brunch is one of the few occasions where cocktails before happy hour are not only accepted, but expected. Champagne, bloody Marys and Caesars and mimosas (orange juice and Champagne) are all part of the perfect brunch experience. For those who prefer not to tipple as they taste, fresh-squeezed fruit and vegetable juices are customarily served along with coffee, tea, sparkling waters and soft drinks. The beauty of brunch As our love affair with brunch continues, more international flavors and new culinary trends become part of the tradition. So don’t be surprised to see raw bars, sushi and even chocolate fountains sitting alongside standards like bacon and eggs and home-fried potatoes.
But that’s the whole idea. The true beauty of brunch lies in the vast variety of its choices. From selective grazers to the all-you-can-eaters, there’s bound to be something satisfying for all. Bon Probecho! 쮿
HOST YOUR OWN BUFFET BRUNCH! Here are a few savory suggestions to help you host a magical brunch in your own home. Mix and match these ingredients to create a bountiful banquet.
MEAT bacon, sausages, assorted cold cuts, roasted meats such as ham, roast beef or lamb SEAFOOD shrimp cocktail, smoked oysters, clams; conch fritters are an Aruban favorite FISH smoked salmon, sardines, pickled herring VEGETABLES tossed green salads, home-fried or roasted potatoes CHEESE every kind of cheese goes well with brunch and don’t forget regular and flavored cream cheeses BREADS muffins, croissants, bagels, baguettes and homemade breads. Aruban pan dushi (sweet, raisin-laden rolls) make excellent brunch buns
12
EXTRAS yogurts, flavored syrups, jams and jellies, peanut butter, honey, pickles, hot peppers, butter and flavored butters, spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg DESSERTS cakes, pies, custards, puddings, French pastries… anything goes for brunch dessert, but tropical fruit salad is a perfect way to end a heavy meal EGGS Last but not least, eggs! In fact, why not set up a make-your-own omelet station? Provide guests with pre-chopped and prepared fillers and ingredients beside a good quality frying pan over a kerosene burner so that they can create their own specialties. After all, you don’t want to slave over a hot stove all day… brunch is supposed to be a leisurely occasion enjoyed by all… even the host!
Top photo by Roberto Adrian. Left photo by Kelly Cline. Middle photo by Alex Brosa. Right photo by Floortje