NO.5 Editors ROBERT JONES ANNELISE SEALY DANIEL LEE HARVEY SORAAN LATIF
WRITERS DANIEL LEE HARVEY
FRONT COVER TILMANN ZITZMANN
ROBERT JONES SARAH TALLEY ANNELISE SEALY
CONTACT
JAKE KITE
7shadesmagazine@gmail.com
JESSE KRSTEVSKI
facebook.com/7sobm
VEEBS SABHARWAL
7sobm.tumblr.com
NICOLE MARSHALLSAY SORAAN LATIF
SPECIAL THANKS
Designers
THE SEVEN SHADES OF BLACK TEAM ALL THE CREDIT FOR THIS
NICOLE MARSHALLAY
ISSUE SHOULD BE GOING TO
AUSTE KUZMICKAITE
YOU GUYS / MIKE LAWLEY AS
KARISSA SPARKES
ALWAYS / AARON NELSON / NICOLE
AARON NELSON
MARSHALLAY / KRISTIAN BERGE
SORAAN LATIF
/ MY BROTHER ALEX O'CONNOR / ANDY ROBEY / DANIEL LEE HARVEY
contents ART & DESIGN 05
TILMAN INTERVIEW
10
BAUHAUS REVIEW
68
Laura Redburn
MUSIC 16
DAILY CLASSICS
18
HALEY SMITH INTERVIEW
24
VINYL ARTICLE
26
SOFTWAR INTERVIEW
054
FASHION 30
ASOS INTERVIEW
34
MANISH ARTICLE
38
SOPHIE ALEXANDERA TRAYNOR
44
HOUSE OF H
51
BJORN ARITCLE
photography 54
GASTON TORRES
62
ESDRAS HILGADO
A graphic designer who has become increasingly popular over the past month or two thanks to his daily geometry blog which showcase his talents via the sheer simplicity of his illustrations and style. He took some time off for us to answer a few questions about his work, process and thoughts upon his posts.
INTERVIEWED BY SARAH TALLEY
O
Do you ever run out of ideas or become bored with working in this specific area of design?
Of course that was exactly what I feared when I started Geometry Daily. My first goal was to make it to 100 pieces, now I got past number 160 and hopefully my fuel will last for the rest of the year. So far ideas are not a problem at all! Every idea I work out easily leads to ten more ideas. It feels like I explore an endless multi-dimensional space of possibilities, with beautiful findings at every step I take. And then there are those vast
n your blog you say that you create a new piece
sources of inspiration everywhere. From nature,
every day, that’s pretty ambitious, what made you
arts, design, technology, mathematics to the
decide to start this project?
most unusual places like astrology or the chaos of daily life. They act like shortcuts to even more
I am currently taking a year off from normal work
starting points of exploration. So this might seem
at the agency to look after my two little kids. (On
like a rather specific area of design, still it is so
a side note: Every father should consider leaving
deep, I feel like I hardly scratched the surface.
work for some time. Kids are awesome. Watch them closely and learn from them!) Therefore I
How does the process begin for each piece, do
was looking for a way to channel my creative
you design them on paper first, or do you have
energy otherwise. Something that fits between
any sort of preparation you do?
household work and playground time. Something that challenges me. Something free from clients’
First, I try to catch every bit of inspiration
constraints. Something that is already inside of
somewhere. Working on geometric designs on
me and wanted to get out.
a daily basis made me sensitive to absolutely anything that could lead to a visual idea. I take
Simple geometric designs always appealed to
a photo, I sketch, I write down.
me, so I developed the idea to daily create and publish a minimal graphic composition. I hoped
On paper, on my iPhone, on the MacBook. That
to be able to do that in the 15 to 30 minutes I
leads to huge messy heaps of inspirational bits
have available each day.
everywhere, in the analog as in the digital realm.
Yes. Working with such talented young people
a large part of Geometry Daily happens digitally,
at the university is a blessing for me and my
from inspiration and ideation to development
work. First, they ask the relevant questions
and publishing.
and are full of fresh and extraordinary ideas. It keeps me on my toes to keep up with what they
I’m also an amateur photographer and sometimes
have in mind. Also, teaching forces me to deal
I sketch a bit.
with the very basics of design: Questioning, thinking, development, graphics, composition,
Your work has a lot of postmodern elements,
typography, layout. It does not generate ideas
specifically like those of the De Stijl. Do you find
directly, but switching between creating and
that previous artists influence your work at all?
teaching surely is a huge help to keep my mind fresh. On my laptop’s hard drive there is a series of
Absolutely. De Stijl, Bauhaus, constructivism, hard-edge painting, Swiss design, etc., etc. There
Adobe Illustrator files that I work on whenever
Do you have any other forms of media or
are so many artists and designers who I admire
I have some minutes free. All the ideas end up
subjects that you like to use outside of your
and who got me working in this field.
here side by side in a happy colorful crowd. The
current project?
rough development and selection happens here.
What do you hope to convey to those viewing
Then each daily artwork is put into a separate file,
Actually I am an interaction designer, working
then brought over into Photoshop, processed,
mostly on online projects for years. Websites,
then the JPG is uploaded to Tumblr.
apps, digital media. But excellent interaction
I started it because I wanted to create something
design also needs excellence in many other
relevant and beautiful and share it with the world.
Do you find that your teaching ever generates new
visual disciplines, from layout to graphics and
After several months I slowly realize that I picked
ideas for your art? What has been your experience
typography. That is why I try to be a good designer
geometry for a reason: There is a certain set of
as both a teacher and a creator?
overall. I am driven by the endless possibilities of
rules I can rely on. If I draw two overlapping
digital networked tools. It feels natural to me that
circles, their edges will always cross in exactly
your work?
two points. If I draw two equal shapes or more, they always create a rhythm. The angles in an equal-sided triangle are always 60 degrees. These rules feel simple, but create infinite possibilities, a multi-dimensional space to explore. I see endless beauty in these rules. It feels like all the beauty is already there, I just need to make it visible. That is what I want to do with Geometry Daily.
Rather than more traditional methods, you display
your work through your blog. What has been your
up the daily schedule. And I don't want to spoil
experience with having others follow your work
this fun project with mediocre quality.
on a daily basis? Have you had any interesting responses to your work, either positive or negative?
The feedback has been absolutely staggering. On Tumblr alone over 1.900 people are following, many more on Facebook, Twitter and RSS. It blows my mind that so many want to see the next daily post. It's incredibly motivating.
Also I'm floored by how many great like-minded people I meet. There is hardly a day without somebody writing from any corner of the world. Just to say hi, get in touch, give feedback, ask for advice. Surprisingly, there is a great number of musicians and producers who ask for a composition to use it for the cover of their next album, digital release or even tape.
Publishing on the internet was the perfect way to go, a free and easy way to publish world-wide. All the attention I get, I owe it all to the kind people that re-blogged, tweeted, and blogged the hell out of Geometry Daily. Thank you very much! Please keep it up, tell your friends!
Do you have further plans for the future of Geometry Daily?
Many have asked for real prints of Geometry Dailies, as well as t-shirts. I am still looking into the possibilities of digital or manual printing. There will definitely be a way to buy stuff in the near future, at the moment I'm just busy with keeping
Tilman Zitzmann's tumblr
Bauhaus Art as Life Written by Soraan Latif
Bauhaus Art as Life is a time capsule exhibiting the first steps and the fall of one of the most influential and revolutionary design institutions ever created. Teachers at the institute included some of the most important artists and designer within the past century including Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky and Theo van Doesburg. From graphic design, architecture, interior design and even textiles they have had a huge effect on current designers and artists. They were the driving force behind modernism and tried to change society through design in the aftermath of WWI. Split into ten sections, the exhibition guides you through each of these phases and sections within the history of the Bauhaus.
Farkus Molnar Design for a single-family house, 1922 Tempera over pencil on paper Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin Photograph: Markus Hawlik
The exhibition started naturally with the creation of the school when Walker Gropius founded the school by merging the Academy of Fine arts and the School of Arts and Crafts in 1919, Weimar. This was at a period of time when Germany were still coming out of the ruins of WWI, social and political changes were happening across the country. Art was also undergoing its own revolutionary changes around this period with cubism, futurism and constructivism cropping up across Europe within the early parts of the twenty century. Their radical ideas and thinking influenced the early illustrations that started to shape the Bauhaus style. Rather than making realistic illustrations they were more interested in shapes, lines being bold and assertive. I also learnt lots of new things within the first few rooms of the exhibition for instance that I never associated with Bauhaus. I never knew for instance that they were so involved in crafts, material, textiles and sculpture.
Whenever I think about Bauhaus I always think about grids, typography and architecture but of course this had to take time to develop, years in fact, viewing the stages within the progressions
of the school you can really appreciate how long it takes to create a distinct style. It would be hard to initially tell that one of these earlier pieces are created by Bauhaus, I personally wouldn't have guessed it in a million years. Yet there are still signs of the style, even in the early stages. There's a lack of texture and a flatness to some of the earlier pieces which links up perfectly with their graphic design later on for instance or the futuristic shapes and geometric casing of the kettle on the right. Its great to see the progression as you walk around the exhibition, it's exciting to see so many years of art and design flow and link together perfectly. The area that really caught my attention within the early parts of the exhibition was third section entitled, Salute to the Square. There is a clear jump forward in the schools approach and designs within the period after 1921 when Theo van Doesburg joins the school, bringing with him the De Stiji style that he created. A few years later you have Hungarian artist L谩sol贸 Moholy-Nagy also join the school in 1923. After this point you can view a greater rise to a more geometric approach to the arts and crafts they produce.
Marianne Brandt Tea service, 1924 Tombac, nickel silver, silver and ebony Klassik Stiftung Weimar, Bestand Museen
Herbert Bayer Postcard no. 11 for the Bauhaus exhibition in Weimar, summer, 1923 Colour lithograph on cardboard Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin Photograph: Markus Hawlik
Walter Gropius Diagram of the Bauhaus curriculum, 1922 Letterpress Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin
The main attraction to me though as a graphic design student was the fourth room, Instruments of Communication. This is where all the typography,
László Moholy-Nagy Prospectus cover for 14 Bauhaus books, 1928 Black and red print on white paper with wire binding Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin
layouts, grids, advertisements and posters are.
There were so many pieces that I hadn't seen
This is what our perception of Bauhaus is today.
before too like the the Kanden logo created by
It truly opened my eyes while I was gazing upon
Herbet Bayer for instance. With no exaggeration
their work, I knew already that they were years
what so ever, this could have been designed
ahead of themselves but seeing these pieces in
yesterday. It's bold, perfectly circular shape with
the flesh makes a vast difference. You can see
a clean, crisp and modern typeface all in black
the pencil marks that have created the Universal
with a light cream background. It still amazes
typeface for instance. It looks so modern, even
me how this was done over seventy years ago.
now, but to think that it was created over eighty
There are so many hidden gems like this throughout
years ago. The typographic logos created for
the exhibition with over four hundred pieces of work
a small soap company, the packaging. All of it
on display there is no way in my mind any
was and still is beautiful. Lásoló Moholy-Nagy
designer who knows anything about Bauhaus
helped create and developed a unified style of
could miss this. This is such a rare experience
design, one that was clear and provide efficacy.
to see all of this work within one space, it was a
Everything became more simplistic, from the
privilege to spend a few hours there. Make no
use of colour to the amount of information on
doubt about this, you have to see this exhibition,
the work, even breaking up the design with the
it would be incredibly foolish not to. I haven’t
use of bars and lines. Right now at university
even mentioned the rest of the exhibition which
this is exactly what we are being taught now,
takes a closer look at photography, artichectire
how to communicate a message effectively. The
and interview design. The exhibition covers
principles that they created then still exist today.
everything about Bauhaus, including the letter to the students informing that the school was being closed down. By far one of the best exhibitions that I've been to in the past view years.
Bauhaus: Art as Life at Barbican Art Gallery, London 3 May – 12 August 2012
AILY CLASSICS WRITTEN BY DANIEL LEE HARVEY
Everyone connects differently to music; certain
something of their own without following the rest
mind open to as many sounds as possible, I
tracks we tune into can stern feelings that
of the tribe, the artists that sang with no fear, the
believe everyone should show respect to the
relate to our childhood, it can even stimulate
producers that understood every element there
past, all the genres we listen to now, started a
specific senses like a smell, a taste to picturing
was in music, who conducted and bought out
journey somewhere, a individual looked upon
a mental image in our minds. We control our
the best of the people they worked with to the
the industry and took the opportunity to define
own frequencies, we as individuals decide what
musicians and djs that encapsulated a essence
a change, to create something that would then
music we listen to and we as individuals will use
and channelled it out to a open audience. I
create a movement for others to follow. Everyone
it to influence our thoughts as well as our image.
wanted it to be an integral element to the music
should appreciate that, we as lovers to music
section of the magazine. I thought to myself that
understand that the industry yearns and turns
Music has a constriction on the most of us, it
this would be a brilliant opportunity to show
for fresh substance, it changes, it evolves and
follows our everyday sequences, we use it to
admiration to the artists of the past and offer
rebounds depending on what is popular in the
energise, to reminisce, to show reflection of
an insight into their work.
current market, but for me, the legends we have
ourselves to simply winding down in relaxation.
made by following and connecting to their art will
Music is a language, a voice that changes
I started the process right at the very beginning
never be emulated, they will remain intact and
depending on its location, its audience and the
while issue 1 was still in the pot waiting to be
they will influence others for many generations
message it injects upon society. We aslisteners
stewed in creativity. I approached Soraan with
to come no matter what happens.
channel an energy similar to the onethe artists
the idea and he decided to take it on and ever
have felt while creating it. The reason why we
since it has become a rock for all that we do
In essence, this is my way of showing who has
connect to a piece because it has stimulated
here. Seven Shades of Black is a magazine
had a huge impact on me, to show unsung and
a sensation within, a sound, a voice, a lyric
that aims to give people a projection into
forgotten heroes and to give a projection into a
to the projection of a artist when it comes to
underground talent, that shows respect and
variety of genres and records that injected the
expressing can trigger a whole globe of opinions
admiration to the innovators of the media and
industry with innovation. This is only my tastes
and thoughts. I love the connection people make
arts industry and allows writers, designers,
though and I wanted to see what other people
to artists and I love the impulse effect it can cause
photographers, the whole team to be who they
would do, I selected a team of writers and I’m
to other people particularly at events. You stand
want to be, we don’t believe in barriers, we
hoping they will give you a good glance into
waiting in a crowd in anticipation, the curtains
believe in freedom, the freedom to express
their music tastes, I just love seeing people
are closed, the spotlights are reflecting upon the
openly and to give others a portal to connect
establish a connection to a piece of music and I
many faces of smiles, the curtains arise and a
to our words and images. I have loved my time
think it’s only right to see another person illustrate
crescendo of noise shoots through your body,
here and it has given me the space to flow and
it. I’m glad to see so many of you enjoy it, but I
the artist walks on stage showing a appreciation
to talk about subjects and concepts I have had
think it’s my time to let go of it slightly and allow
to everyone in the venue and begins to sing, that
stuck in my head which I felt difficult to express
it to grow and shoot down a different path, just
first note is when you begin the connection, the
with other magazines without following their
remember though to keep open to as much as
link between yourself and them.
conventions of writing, but here it’s open and I
you can and to share those records we consider
respect that hugely.
as classics to the rest of the planet!
At Seven Shades of Black, I thought it would only be necessary to start something in relation
The Daily Classics has received huge amounts
to what I’ve been describing, a daily classic
of support from blogs that have reposted our
and by classic, I mean a record that has had a
content and it has become a highlight to many,
great impact. Pioneers, innovators, people that
something I am incredibly grateful for. I do
glanced upon the scene and decided to create
it for the love of music and I try to keep my
HALEY SMITH WRITTEN BY DANIEL LEE HARVEY PHOTOGRAPHY BY BLUEBIRD PHOTOGRAPHY STYLING BY LESLIEPENNEL
I love it when I find pure souls floating around
like Alicia Keys and John Mayer really impacted
on the internet and Haley Smith is one of them.
me, I experienced more things in my life which
Her voice is like a bonfire, a singe of warm and
I could relate to through the lyrics of their songs
crisp flavours. Haley uses her pool of influences
so that helped me to push myself when it came
to create a sound that is exclusive to her.
to creating music of my own.
Her album ‘‘A Baby and A Queen’’ is a three track splendour. The opening song Poison
You’ve released a 3 track E.P called A Baby
Apple is soaked inemotional integrity. It has
and a Queen; it’s has a concoction of jazz and
all the traditional elements, the lyrics that tell
folk sounds, what were your influences while
a narrative, a key instrument that overshadows
creating it?
the leaps and jumps in the vocal range and of course the voice which is packed with feeling
I was listening to a lot of Janis Joplin, she has
and depth. The second song on this album
influenced me a lot when it comes to artistry, I
however is the one that caught me off my feet.
read her biographies, listened to her tapes and
It’s an acapella, there is no flaunts or added
sobbed, she was a beautiful soul, pretty much all
dimensions, it just her. I haven’t experienced
I listened to while I was writing it. I loved her then
the hustle and bustle of 1940’s New York or the
and I will love her now, a true inspiration of mine.
spotlight shows in smoky jazz cafes but that track can take you there. Singers have the
Janice was a huge soul artist who injected a
aptitude to teleport you to a time in the past or in
message upon society and with your tracks,
the future. I admire her compassion and respect
they reflect more on the inner-being and how
for such a complicated art and she shows real
our emotions can often constrict ourselves
gratitude for all the support she can get. I decided
when wrapped up in love or hate, what was your
it would only be necessary to hold an interview
innovation?
with her and here’s the proof. I believe in keeping it true, stick to what you know, When did your passion for music start?
I write what I feel and if people can relate to that then I’m only thankful.
Ever since I was little, I had a lot of respect for artists like Aaliyah and listened to her music a
In today’s market, there’s a lot of soul artists,
lot to the point I became obsessed with her, I
people like Adele are holding the beacon up to a
was really upset when she died. I started music
lot of these upcoming singers and then there folk
lessons when I was about 11 or 12 and that’s when
like Amy Winehouse who didn’t restrain herself,
I really started to get into it. 14 and 15 was the
she just allowed it to flow out without it being
age I started to precipitate different artists, people
filtered, when I watch earlier performances of
her, she reflected different mannerisms of these
But I like that about an artist, it shows their
I’m going to say it anyway, What is your approach
1960’s Motown acts but still manages to keep it
human, I rather see someone connect with you
to song writing?
in time with our generation, when it comes to you
on an emotional level instead of the way they
performing, do you think about what’s happening
look physically or the way they hit notes like they
I can’t sit down and force myself to write
in today’s market and how singers are doing it now
have been told before the show to do it, it’s very
something, I really have to be in the thick of a
or do you try to keep in touch with the past and
mechanical and it makes me think are they more
emotion to find a narrative, I wrote something
remain to show reflection to soul and jazz legends?
about the music or the theatrics of a performance?
the night before this interview and it’s something I’m very proud of, it just flowed out of me, I was
Wow, that’s a very good question haha; I don’t
Yes I agree with that, I don’t believe in overdoing
writing what I was feeling and thinking and it
really have a conscious on what I do, I just keep
it or acting in a certain way just to please the
portrayed the exact message I had wrapped up
it open and depending on the audience and the
guideline measures, I balance between the two,
in my emotions. I wish I could write faster, but I
venue, I will connect differently but I don’t over
try to remain on top of my emotions and the way
can’t and I believe forcing something out instead
think it, it can often numb creativity. I’ve been told
I conduct myself to a crowd of people.
of allowing it to come out naturally can often ruin
that I look very confident when I play but inside, it’s like a brick wall falling, I get very nervous.
the quality and the meaning. I was suppose to say this question earlier on but
In terms of the subjects you cover in your songs, I
jealous I felt and I was never a jealous girl, I felt
every music journalist has asked at some point
felt a lot concepts revolved around love, am I right?
terrible at the time, it just wasn’t who I was, I
of their career, but here it is anyway, if your house
was pulling one of these b girl faces just saying
was in a burning blaze and you could only take
Yes, the songs on my E.P were all about the same
what to myself, but yeah I have evolved from
one record with you, what would it be and why?
guy and I don’t feel that way about him now.
that and I feel that love can be one of the most
One of your songs is called Poisoned Apple, you
powerful emotions to express, even if it has slight
I would take my Janis Joplin Pearl vinyl; I got it at
ingestions of jealousy!
this rustic store in downtown Atlanta and it means a lot to me and at the time I was experiencing
planning on killing him?
Haha it’s more he poisoned me, I remember how
I’m going to ask you one of the most clichéd
emotions similar to her own and I instantly made
questions imaginable which I’m pretty certain,
that connection with her. She is a beautiful woman
and I have huge pocketfuls of respect for what
often reflect the content of the music, but yeah
huge audience compared to someone who is
she did and what she stood for during her reign
like you already mentioned, artists like Erykah
the opposite?
as an artist.
stood out of the industry because they were so elaborate and different on what they did, almost
That varies really, some are doing singing
I know the guitar is your key instrument when it
like she was from another planet telling us the
because of the way the media has compacted
comes to constructing your music, but if you had
vision she had depicted in her head and with
it in advertising, oh so and so is a singer, I’m
the opportunity to expand, would you?
Amy Winehouse, she was nostalgic and echoed
going to try it kind of thing without actually taking
many female Motown singers, so there is a divide
it into serious consideration, it does anger me
Yes actually, there are so many instruments in
there but that’s only 2 out of the package so I
when people on that level will result to do other
records that I would hear and ambient sounds
can’t decide haha!
things in order to get a audience of clickers but
that my ears get attracted to, it would be good to
hey it isn’t my worth to complain, I just respect
start experimenting and getting other members
You first started posting on YouTube, doing covers
the people that work hard and do it purely for the
on board, but yeah I really need to start opening
of songs with a microphone and your guitar, as you
love and appreciation of music.
up my horizons when it comes to learning new
know, YouTube is very competitive and there are
skills that will help me develop my sound. I loved
many others out there striving to get recognition
The 1960’s was very interesting for music,
the time when I was working with beat maker
for what they are doing, do you have any advice
particularly because it brewed a lot of controversy
Languid; he produced a lovely remix of one of
you can offer to them?
and activism in music, soul and rock & roll artists
my tracks Heavy Heart.
were labelled as messengers from hell, the music Just be true to yourself, don’t get manipulated
that can turn the normal everyday people into
With soul, there’s a duality of moods and narratives,
or disheartened because no one understands
crazed party animals, but it wasn’t like that, it’s
artists like Erykah Badu often take influence from
your work first, you can’t expect everyone to love
the lack of knowledge and understanding that
a subliminal force, a world that revolves around
it straight away, just keep on releasing music
made them label it in such a way and I feel it’s
futuristic concepts, she draws in these emotions
as much as you can and make sure to show
the same for a lot of underground music out there,
and relates it to political methods and then there’s
appreciation to what is around you, speak to artists
people will touch base upon it and that will be it
others that will only induce themselves on love,
on a similar level to yourself and comment and
until seeps through onto the commercial market,
Amy Winehouse for example, who foretold the
critic each other’s work. I’m not big at all on this
what are your thoughts about this?
biography of her live, speaking of relationships,
YouTube thing and there are people out there who
drinking to doing drugs to giving a foresight of
have millions of followers, I’m just happy people
It is sad when that happens, white people of
her tragic end. She used her art as a mirror to
follow my work and I can just be me.
the 1960’s who like black music were accused as devils because the rest of society was into
her habits and addictions; do you feel that there is a divide when it comes to expression in this
Going back to that millions of followers statement,
something else, we take everything in turns, if
particular genre of music?
do you feel that some of the artists are almost
something is popular, people tend to keep on
constricted to a trait, let me explain that better,
top of it no matter the content being produced
It depends really on the person, everyone comes
say there’s a girl who has a good appearance
and for everyone who is into the underground
from different backgrounds and ages and that can
and not a so good voice yet manages to pull a
scene, you need to search for it harder and I
believe that you’ve already made a connection
glad of all the support I have received of them,
to that artist for battling through everything else
my whole family in general, lovely people.
just to listen to their material. And last of all, do you have any new material in You’re a multi-talented artist who has the capability
store that our readers can check out in the future?
to write, play and sing, is your family musical at all? I have, I have written a few songs that have quite Ha why thank you! More my dad’s side really,
a strong folk feel to them, but there’s still a lot of
my dad plays piano and sings in a choir and my
soul there and soul will always be the foundation
grandma too sang in a choir and played piano
for what I do, in terms of themes I will talk more
and there’s a piano kept in their house in Alabama
about my experiences when overcoming certain
so yeah and my mum’s side of the family was
points within my life and the process of growing
more the listeners to the music, the people that
up, I’m excited about it and it should hopefully
perceived and loved it for what it is, both me and
be ready very soon.
my mum are excessive listeners and she shares music with me and I share music with her, I’m
Haley Smith's soundcloud
L s p i
e G h c
t e y a
' t s l
Two fresh faced disc jockeys came bounding up
it from downloading. It removed the process of
market trader will give you a deal, know you by name
to a friend of mine recently, eager to bend his ear
flicking through a rack, deducing if a record was
and keep an eye out for the records you are after. And
into giving them a chance to prove themselves at
decent from limited clues, holding it, perhaps
all simply because you show loyalty to them, even if it
a local club night in town. Knowing people that are
having a listen and a traditional bit of shop dealer
is only ÂŁ20 every couple of weeks! It is their living and
just starting out on that journey is encouraging -
chit chat. Being told of this belligerent purchase
they cannot afford to just chuck a random box of vinyl
evidence that records still stir something deeper
style was a disappointment at first, but the real
at you like some bloke on eBay clearing out his "Liquid
in a listener, keeping independent shops alive
concerns passed me by until an excursion to
Dubstep" phase - they show the same passion for it as
and record markets popular. But during this
Spitalfields Market.
the buyer.
perception of these keen lads - the monolithic
The market is always worth the time and effort
Two newcomers buying a few boxes filled with random
marketplace of "eBay" had been uttered. It is the
to get there - traders that know how everything
dance records are not going to be the downfall of record
perfect place to track down elusive records and
in their stock sounds and deliver a service to
shops and market dealers, but it is harmful if these
gauge the going price for current gems, which is
encourage you back again. The general hubbub
people never experience buying records physically. The
something I massively appreciate about it. The
at Spitalfields beats the split second moment of
collector and trader are in the uphill struggle together,
two DJs stood before me were a new breed,
hope as you search eBay for that missing piece
but it manages to keep ticking over regardless due to
however, with no favourite record shops or distant
to your collection. The issue with bulk buying from
this unique buying experience. Of course you cannot
markets used for sourcing. Instead, they swore
members of the public online is simple to see, but
ignore the financial importance of buying from the
by a method of aggressive bulk buying akin to a
costly to alter now it is such a well-established
market traders or local record stores, simply to throw
cash and carry warehouse, purely thanks to eBay.
method for us to shift unwanted gear. Markets
the independent industry a lifeline. It is a sad thought,
allow you to put money back into the system,
though, when people with a burgeoning interest in
They revealed a ruthless method and condensed
sometimes more visibly than a record store with
records seek it only in its online form of trading. Get to
it into a series of steps:
a rapid turnover of stock. Markets should always
the shops, the market; get to know your local dealer. If
1) Search eBay for boxes of records
offer you a bespoke service when searching
you stay tapping away for vinyl online it becomes hard
2) Narrow it down further into genre-specific
for records too; competition around them is so
to see what separates a record from a download with
collections
similar in terms of knowledge and stock, and
all the personal bells and whistles removed.
3) Buy boxes of 500+ records only
only a great service can differentiate them. One
4) Repeat until a desired collection has formed.
bad experience can put you off a trader for a
Written by Robert Jones
long time. By handing over money to a faceless
Photography by Harry Lawford
conversation I had a revelation that changed my
It sounded cold to me, detached completely from
member of the online public you gain no service
the process of purchasing records that separates
and build no real contacts for further buying. A
Softwar Interviewed by Jesse Krstevski
zoftwar consists of Myles Du Chateau and Jeremy Lloyd. Hailing from Sydney, they have been making waves on Australian beaches and abroad with their new release This Time Around, released on the influential local label Future Classic. Softwar
musical influences you were channelling when
are attracting attention from all the right people,
making the EP?
with their most recent effort being included in disco tastemaker The Magician’s monthly Magic
Yes yes there is definitely a 90's vibe. We often
Tape as well as being featured on a Kitsuné
find ourselves mixing a lot of this type of stuff into
compilation. Having remixed the likes of Azari &
our live shows and mix tapes, so it was always on
III, Two Door Cinema Club, Groove Armada, Bag
the cards. As for musical influences this would be
Raiders and The Temper Trap, the hard work is
guys like Azari & III, Wolf and Lamb, Tensnake
now being rewarded with regular slots at music
& Inner City to name a few.
festivals and monthly club residencies. We were lucky enough to speak with Softwar about music,
As expected, the release has received warm
vinyl and parties.
praise from the likes of Azari & III, Toby Tobias, Slow Hands and the Melbourne Deepcast crew.
You two met in 2005 and it's now 2012, were many
Super pleased to have guys like this supporting
of these seven years spent working on the This
the EP, a little surreal to be honest.
Time Around EP? You use vinyl during some DJ sets, do you have Haha, would kind of like to say yes, but it’s not
a large record collection?
true. We practically started working on the EP mid-2011 as a rough draft kind of thing then
We indeed do. We have a fairly decent sized
fortunately had the final proof just after Christmas.
collection as is, but it’s growing day by day. Our
A belated Christmas gift if you will.
last trip to New York was spent mostly in record shops, only downfall was the cost to bring them
The title track features some very 90's vocals
all back!
and piano, can you tell us about which What is your favourite record and what is the one record want the most?
Too many to name!
On the topic of vinyl, so much of its appeal is the
- Its the kinda party you promise not to stay up
exported, whether it be Future Classic, the
visual aspect. The stylish Future Classic white
too late but always get home at 6am… always
aforementioned Melbourne Deepcast, and various
sleeves come emblazoned with the logo in gold.
delivers. As for overseas we are hoping to hop
Modular artists such as Beni, Cut Copy and
What are the best 3 vinyl cover artworks you've
onto a mediocre airline mid-2012 to do a smallish
Canyons.
come across?
European/US trip. The scene is very good. Lots of parties and heaps
Mystery Meat records from NYC, Lets Play House
Is there a place or a club that you'd like to play
and instruments of Rapture are pretty nice
at most?
of new acts on the rise, it’s good to be part of it.
Thanks to Myles and Jeremy for their time. The Slowblow parties in Sydney are lucky enough
Morocco somewhere suss.
to have you every month and you were in New
You can listen to Softwar’s ‘Orange’ Colour Flight
York last September, have you got any more
What are your views on the current music scene
international ventures planned?
Down Under?
Thanks. Yeah its always fun to play at Slowblow
It seems like there's boundless talent being
Mix here.
ASOS and the little guy the rise of an empire, the fall of local design. Written by Jake Kite
'A spectre is haunting Europe - the spectre of ASOS'
Undoubtedly, most readers will have come across the once-modest brain child of Nick Robertson and Quentin Griffiths. Based in Camden Town – with a second home in Barnsley – ASOS and its 2,000-strong base of employees is now synonymous with value, prompt delivery, and accessibility, setting a new benchmark for online customer service and quality. At an unprecedented rate of growth, ASOS has developed into the UK’s largest online-only fashion store, earning a cool £339.7 in the 2010-2011 financial year. The ASOS empire, by way of providing free shipping, an original brand, and taking enterprise in the affordable labour markets of developing nations, such as India, has forced many of its local and international competitors to pull up their socks – but as ASOS stocks persistently rise and the brand continues to stretch its wings, does it threaten to stifle local industries that cannot face up to the fashion world’s new Goliath.
'Quality, cool, and cost-efficient'
ASOS has managed to avoid an age-old curse of the fashion industry: polarising its target demographic. Many fashion-savvy consumers would be happy to turn up their nose at a brand that slashes the retail value of its products in a market where being able to charge exorbitant prices reflects upon the brands idea of self-worth; despite this, ASOS has managed to become the guilty pleasure of many and the affordable alternative for thousands. Often when a brand sells cheaply, it carries with it a certain stigma – a bad taste that cannot be easily removed. How is it, then, that ASOS has managed to get around this problem, widening its market from the everyday consumer and to the bargain-hungry fashionista? Much of ASOS’s fame can be owed to its decision in 2004, 4 years after its initial inception, to launch its own ASOS brand. The ASOS own brand for women was warmly received by critics for its surprisingly high quality products that sold for prices that didn’t match their exceptional build; this line threatened to usurp the then king of affordable fashion, Zara, segueing an ASOS own line for men three years later, and allowing the brand to survive a warehouse fire in which it lost £5m of stock.
With such growth, there come many benefits for consumers and the fashion world alike: Firstly, high style is more accessible to the masses – the average punter will have access to a market which previously may have been out of their grasps. Sure, whilst ASOS cannot single-handily increase the purchasing power of individuals, it does give a variety of alternatives to consumers that, despite desiring to dress in a more fashion-conscious manner, may have shied away from the idea of buying a pair of chinos that retail for £150;
S
econdly, ASOS’s London design houses give rewarding opportunities to local designers who
made, insisting that products made on home soil
otherwise may have
are made with greater care, precision, and are
been lost in the sea of
more reliable; however, this only results in prices
competition – changing
of locally produced garments being much higher
and employing a variety of designers from all over
than those of companies like ASOS, in a bid to
the capital allows ASOS to be flexible, to react,
make a profit after the higher wages paid to first-
and change as the designers and their influences
world employees, not just for the luxury of having
change, an aspect which is reflected in ASOS
the brand name. It’s not hard to see why cheap
wide range of designs and directions of style.
online shopping has suffocated local industry;
Most of all, fashion should allow for the youth
for example, I, from my house on the North of
to come through, to let their presence be felt;
Melbourne, can order 3 pairs of trousers from
Lastly, it puts pressure on some of the high-end,
ASOS that will arrive within a working week for a
haute couture based fashion entities to react in
price that would scarcely get me a pair of jeans
a positive way – for instance, if a consumer can
produced in Australia by a Melbourne designer.
find a jacket and/or dress of similar design and
Inevitably, local brands will sink under the
craftsmanship, what draw card other than a
pressure, and understandably so – at the end
brand’s name does the more expensive alternative
of the day, they exist to make a profit. This lack
have? Such reactions to the problem are starting
of industry only exacerbates the problem in
to appear between the formally untouchable
the sense that if the government doesn’t see
moguls of design, which, in the end, only benefits
potential of growth, they are unlikely to bolster
us – the consumer. But, as you may have guessed,
the textile and design industry with government
ASOS’s new dominance isn’t all roses for the
subsidies, above all in the past turbulent months
fashion world.
of Eurozone Crisis.
'There's no place like home'
So, what now are will be the overarching consequences of seeing our local fashion
Life’s hard enough for local designers – high
economy brought to its knees? And what are
rises in the minimum wages for textile workers
some of the things keeping the local scene afloat?
in first-world economies has resulted in most
One of the last bastions of local designers is the
manufactures looking east towards a cheaper
shopping experience. The shopping experience
solution. In a bid to sustain the weltering textiles
will simply never be replicated by any website,
industry, many designers have been defiant in
no matter how hard it tries. All the memberships
their decision to remain ‘UK’ and ‘Australian’
and discount codes in the world will never replace the joy of conversing with a designer or shop assistant about a piece of locally made clothing, a piece that reflects the local scene, like how an individual landscape is reflected in painting of a
valley. Coffee in hand, there’s simply nothing more
same thing as you – globalisation of this sort
succumb to their power. Local designers should
satisfying that trying on a new jacket, falling in
only demonstrates the importance of fashion
learn from ASOS, updating their business and
love with it, and wearing it out the very same night.
as an artistic landscape. Creativity such as this
advertisement methods in a bid to rejuvenate
Interactions of this sort are what make fashion
cannot be simply beaten down by a price war; it
the local industry and perhaps even use ASOS
beautiful – the parties, events, photoshoots,
is for some designers the greatest avenue of self
a springboard for their own careers. They should
new friends. These things cannot exist without
expression, of communication. Mass production
infuse their unique fashion landscape with the
local support. Individuality is another benefit of
cannot overthrow something as power as this.
business tools that are available to them, and
local fashion industry. As an art form, fashion cannot help but reflect the local environment. In
take the fight back to the Zara’s and ASOS’ of 'If you can't join 'em, beat 'em'
this regard, when I travel and take some locally
the world. Recent emergences and success of locally based online stores such as The Grand
made items with me, I take with me a little bit
At this rate, companies such as ASOS won’t be
Social is testimony to this. The big businesses
of my city, my life back home. ASOS ships to
going anywhere, so we should acclimatise to them
may have the upper hand right now, but David
over 100 countries, and in each one of those
in an attempt to reap the maximum benefits for
did beat Goliath.
countries, somebody could be purchasing the
the local fashion scene from them, rather than
Manish Bansal A/W '12
Of Indian origin, Manish Bansal moved to London in 2001 to complete a Bachelors degree in Fashion Design at Middlesex University. Upon graduation, he worked his way from the position of Assistant Menswear Designer to Senior Menswear Designer at various well-known high street names such as Tesco and Ted Baker. In 2008, being granted permanent residency in the U.K., he made the move into freelance work due to the desire to explore other aspects of fashion and culture abroad. Eventually, his craving to further his knowledge of tailoring led to the decision toreturn to university studies and complete a Masters degree in Menswear at the London College of Fashion. This training has enabled him to launch his very own label, incorporating his experience in casual wear with British tailoring expertise.
the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. This in turn led to the discovery of the “Game keeping role," a job involving the upkeep and nurturing of the British countryside and wildlife. This image, coupled with outdoor sports such as shooting, generated the idea of using a technique called ‘felting’ on the surface traditionally tailored silhouettes. Bansal’s prior knowledge of Indian textiles and embellishments tied in supporting this concept.
Traditional tailoring, a skill necessitating perfection, is juxtaposed against the destructive felting technique. This produces a “play of perfection” and a sharp contrast within the garments. Felting involves a needle punch machine that is hard to control, resulting in an imperfect, though unique, fabric surface. Bansal explains that his methodology attempted to tame the result of the felting process to make it as perfect as possible. This in turn destroyed the impeccable tailored surface of a jacket or coat.
Manish Bansal's Website Written by Annelise Sealy
Photographer – Sukriti (www.csukriti.com) Photographic Assistant – Fen Newman Models – Primo Baker & Benjamin Warbis at Premier Model Management Hair & Grooming – Kenny Leung Styling – Manish Bansal Styling Assistance – Santiago Romero
SOPHIE ALEXA TRAYN
E ANDRA NOR WRITTEN BY ANNELISE SEALY
Sophie Alexandra Traynor is a 21-year-old
It was more that I just started taking photos and
photographer from Huddersfield, Yorkshire.Her
absolutely loved it. I never studied Art – I definitely
study in Photography began in college, and she
can’t draw. Photographs are the only way that I
has now gone on to study it at Norwich University
am really able to communicate creatively.
College of the Arts. Our FashionEditor spoke to the woman behind the images to see what drives
Do you believe in the expression “a picture is
and inspires her.
worth 1,000 words”?
At what stage did you become interested in
Yes and no. I believe that some images
photography?
have the power to speak volumes that can’t be communicated with words; everything is
I did work experience at a photography studio
subjective, after all, and the beauty of an image
when I was in high school. One of my assignments
is that you can take it from it whatever you want.I
was to restore some prints for an old lady, photos
do, however, think that sometimes people trytoo
of her and her husband, and they were beautiful.
hard to read into the ‘meanings’ behind images.
From that point on I haven’t stopped taking and
Sometimes they are just beautiful images and
working with images. My job is to take beautiful
that is all that matters.
people and beautiful objects and capture them, show them to people, I just love it.
Do you think that a person must possess talent in order to capture emotion and expression in a
Who or what influenced you to become a
picture?
photographer? I suppose so…there are lots of things that matter I don’t think there was one specific person or thing
when you’re trying to capture emotion – you need
that made me want to become a photographer.
to be able to make that person feel comfortable
and sometimes you need to be able to do the
In your opinion, what makes Photography an Art?
opposite. There is no camera that can do that. Photography is subjective; the thing that I will Does the price of a camera matter in the way that
love about an image might be the thing that
it affects the quality of the picture?
someone else hates. The personal experience you have when looking at a photograph is what
It’s all relative really; if you sat me in front of the
defines it as Art to me.
most expensive piano in the world, I wouldn’t be able to play it any better than I would a £30
Do you think film photography will eventually be
keyboard. It’s not what you’ve got; it’s how you
completely replaced by digital?
use it! Film will never disappear – there’s something In the past did you just consider photography to
about the process of creating a photograph on
be a hobby?
film that digital photography will never be able to achieve. It’s a labour of love, and it’s hands
I guess so. Although, in fairness, it hasn’t ever
on. However, I am a digital baby at heart. I work
really felt like how I expected a ‘job’ to feel and
by eye, and the speed of digital photography is
I hope that it never will! I think if you can turn
a huge factor in the way that I work.
what you love doing into what pays the bills then you’re onto a winner.
Finally, what motivates you to do what you do?
This is going to sound cheesy, but I genuinely can’t imagine doing anything else.
Sophie Alexandra Traynor's Flickr
HOUSE OF HERLIHY
text: 1234567890-= design: kristian hjorth berge photo: dave kai piper
Sinead O’Herlihy, a 21-year-old Fashion and Innovation student at Leeds College of Art, is the creative energy behind British luxury womenswear label House of Herlihy. Only in its second collection, the brand has already shown at Manchester Fashion Week and been featured by several blogs and fashion websites. O’Herlihy has big plans for her label, and says she aims to get it into high-end department stores “in the near future” (watch this space!).
For the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, the designs were inspired by French as well as the Indian architecture and kaleidoscopic digital prints. In addition, she studied the Indian Holi Festival, also known as the Festival of Colours. This comes through in her use of vibrant tones such as blood orange, royal purple and jewel turquoise.The feminine silhouettes of the dresses are constructed with silk chiffons, silk habotais and crêpe de chine.
House of Herlihy's website
photo assistant - mark evans models - laura brown & sarah jones makeup artist: -samantha mercer styling - house of herlihy jewellery -swarovski
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How to up your street cred Britain’s weather is as unpredictable as Kanye West’s next infamous TV moment, so naturally, I was delighted to receive a pair of black moon boots. Effortlessly cool enough to make Napoleon Dynamite proud. My new moon boots have a quilted effect, drawstring at the top and a branding that isn’t so unfamiliar: Björn Borg.
The brand smashed onto the scene good and proper with their lights off party on the eve of London Fashion Week at Battersea Power Station earlier this year, showcasing their AW12 collection in amazing Swedish style. Put your hands together and say Ja!
You might have seen a kaleidoscope of BjörnBorg
he achieved it in: being the winner of 11 Grand
available now, is supported by the premium
underwear enhancing the shelves of selected
slam titles in the space of 8 years. He said that
Heritage Collection, a range of shoes celebrating
UK retailers like Selfridges. NowHarrods has
towards the end of his tennis career, his “spark”
all this about Borg, courtesy of an ergonomic
joined the club and will be officially launching
for the game had gone. That spark that is now
and fashionable design. With his blonde locks,
an exclusive in house Björn Borg shop in mid-
synonymous with his fashion label instead.
fiercely blue eyes and a headband for a crown,
September. With apparel, footwear, underwear
Borg nailed that Prince Charming look hands
and bags, the whole brand will be showcased.
Don’t be trippin’ if you haven’t already gotyourself
down. Now you can trend set vicariously through
The vibe, however, is totally starting to be about
a hip pair of the brand’s sneakers, just hurry up.
his trademark footwear. For the new collection,
their footwear.
This season, we can get our kicks from one fine-
inspiration was drawn from all aspects of his life
tuned array of shoes retailing at an affordable £50
to create end products of near perfection. The
To read about the sports star online, you would
to £120. Swedish born tennis prodigy Björn Borg
key features of a shoe from the heritage collection
take a mouse journey that looks something like
attracted fans left, right and centre for, not just his
include headband details in the linings, a portrait
this: Google>Wimbledon>Heritage>History>
style of playing, but also his style of dress. The
of Björn’s face on the tongue and a stitched
Legends> Björn Borg. Legend is right; Borg
swede was dapper and seemed to be oblivious to
signature on the outside of the shoe. Only the
achieved a lot in proportion to the amount of time
it. The new Björn Borg Footwear SS12 collection,
finest of materials have been sourced to form
each shoe: pliable suede, premium napa and
and boots. Big love for the navy and yellow Anders
right by the age of 25, before retiring to become
unfinished canvas to name a few.
Heritage shoe, retailing at £89. As if Summer
something even bigger: a family man. One should
couldn’t be more exciting, there’s also the added
only wear his career inspired footwear with the
With the 2012 Olympics drawing ever closer, it’s
option of chic, minimalist wedges for ladies. The
utmost respect.
time to start injecting some of the sportswear and
Swedish brand stresses quality and luxury for all
futuristic looks that were sprinkled all over the
its models – what more is needed? The summer
Bjorn Borg's website
runways at London Fashion Week SS12 into your
collection is peppy and playful; a moment please
Written by Veebs Sabharwal
wardrobe. If you’re not quite ready to rock the lycra
while I pencil the sand coloured Flavia wedges
or neoprene then there’s no better way to channel
on to my wishlist (and the suede Thomas shoes
the trend than investing in a pair of psychedelic
in grey for all my guy friends).
Björn Borg sneakers from the main footwear line instead; one that can only be described with 3
So don your brightly coloured headphones, bust
Cs – creative, colourful and contemporary. The
out some classics, and rule the streets with your
line has a heavy mix of sneakers in low and mid
shiny new shoes – laces done up and everything.
versions as well as a selection of flats, flip-flops
Björn Borg became a phenomenon in his own
Gaston T
o
r
r
e
s
LAURA REDBURN “Snapshots from dreams and other worlds� is how Laura describes her collages - and indeed, the colourful combination of surrealism, nostalgia, science fiction and romance in question couldn't be put into words any more aptly. The artworks possess the same poetic ring, but however paired with a kind of quirkiness lose their seriousness to an original and friendly edge.
The artist's love for animals, flowers and old films clearly shows, as they are recurring protagonists in her compositions. Yet unlike Salvador Dali's highly complex theoretical dream worlds, Laura's collages are based on a more easygoing and natural manner of work. Often starting with one image she might want to use, the artist from Wales relies on instinct and spontaneous ideas about combining colours and shapes. Folders of cut- outs and books with illustrations and photos provide the visual repertoire, as Laura
will use digital means only for finishing touches.
of surrealist anarchy. The lighthearted pieces,
“There's something about working with actual
leaving plenty of room for personal interpretation,
paper, cutting with scissors that you can't recreate
often have a sort of mystery about them. Some
working on a computer and I'm a very tactile
appear to convey childhood memories and
person, so I like to work with my hands as much
innocence, others seem slightly humourous or
as I can.”
sarcastic. Having created an animation recently, Laura says she would like to explore this medium
Throughout the œvre, her favour of expressionism,
further, “particularly doing things by hand” and
dada and surrealism are reflected in the choice of
continue to be prolific as “I definitely feel best
themes, faible for colour and embraced freedom
when I'm creating something”.
Laura Redburn's website Written by Nicole Marshallsay
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Just wanted to say a quick thank you to everyone who has helped me get this far from Daniel, Peter, Alex and some 15 year old kid to right now a group of 26 including Aaron, nicole and Rober and to everyone else how has helped inbetween. Its crazy to be quiet honest, you guys deserve more credit for this magazine than I do. Thank you Soraan Latif Editor of Seven Shades of Black