SEOUL (March 2014) by Seoul Selection

MARCH 2014 ￦ 5,000 / US$ 4.99

www.seoulselection.com

ISSN: 1599-9963

ISSUE NO. 128

NEW YORK WHOLISTIC P.22 CARE

BANYAN TREE CLUB & SPA P.34 SEOUL

AHN TRIO CONCERT

P.37

MUSIC SHOW WEDDING

P.38

P.10-11

EXPLORE NORTHEAST SEOUL SPRING IN JINHAE

P.14-15

P.13

DESIGN PLAZA & PARK EATS OF MARCH

P.20

CAMPING IN STYLE

P.23-25

HAIR DESIGNER

P.26-27

CHA HONG P.35

LEARN KOREAN AT ONE WORLD SEOUL SELECTION BOOKSHOP

P.36

CONTENTS NO. 128

March 2014 About the Cover Model Choi Dami in itaewon. Coordinated by Shin Yesol Photographed by Ryu Seunghoo

EXPLORING SEOUL

SEOUL TRAVEL BITS

SPECIAL REPORT Healing Pain

TRAVEL Jinhae

Nowon-gu

SHOPPING Camping…with Style

Exploring the old and new in northeastern Seoul

KOREA TRAVEL BITS

INTERVIEW Hair Designer Cha Hong

HISTORY WALKS The yi Tae-jun House

---28

SEOUL SUB—›URBAN Seodaemun Station 20

DINING & NIGHTLIFE The Eats of March

GOINGS-ON AROUND TOWN Previews, Listings, & More 32

EXPAT BUZZ 40

MAPS & GUIDES

Publisher seoul selection President Kim hyung-geun (hank Kim) Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Deputy Editor felix im, Choi Yong-shik Producer/Coordinator/Writer Kim hansol Art Director Jung hyun-young Head Designer Yu hye-joo Designer Cynthia fernández Photographer Ryu seunghoo Advertising & Sales Min Jae-won Kim Yunjung, Koo Yongsung Contributors Daniel gray Merissa Quek Robert J. fouser gabriel Pettyjohn Rajnesh sharma

Address 2nd flr., 43, bukchon-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, seoul 110-210, Korea Tel 82-2-734-9567 Fax 82-2-734-9562 E-mail hankinseoul@gmail.com Website www.seoulselection.com Registration No. 서울 라 09431 Copyright by seoul selection Printed by (주) 평화당 (Tel 82-2-735-4001) All rights reserved. no part of this publication covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise — without the written consent of the publishers. sEoUL welcomes letters, faxes and e-mails to the editor (pubco@seoulselection.com) regarding press releases, specific articles and issues. All correspondence may be edited for reasons of clarity or space. seoul selection also offers a free online newsletter, sEoUL WEEKLY, which tells you where to go, what to do, and who to see while you are staying in seoul. for details, see http://magazine.seoulselection.com.

광고 문의 정기구독 안내

SPECIAL SUBSCRIPTION OFFER! T

No-haggle pricing 광고가는 정찰제입니다 To advertise in SEOUL, call (02) 7349567 or email hankinseoul@gmail.com sense@seoulselection.com

Huge reductions on domestic subscriptions to SEOUL magazine!

To subscribe, call (02) 734-9567 or email sense@seoulselection.com.

• 6 months: KRW 30,000 → KRW 14,000 • 12 months: KRW 60,000 → KRW 25,000

For the latest Seoul-related news and events, follow Seoul Selection on Facebook and Twitter! And don’t forget to sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, look up past SEOUL articles, and browse through our on-line bookshop at www. seoulselection.com

FREE postage for international subscribers

international subscription rates: •6 months: US $30 •12 months: US $59

Seoul Selection

@seoulselection

Exploring seoul

A Day in Nowon-gu Exploring the old and new in northeastern Seoul Written by Gabriel Pettyjohn Photographed by Robert Koehler

angnam has a trite song heard worldwide. Hongdae has the nightlife that draws crowds. Other districts have markets, temples, and palaces. But have you ever been to Nowon-gu? Probably not yet. The district of Nowon-gu is the most densely populated and decidedly middle-income residential area of Seoul. The district is a concrete maze of the twenty to thirty story apartment blocks that dominate the housing choices for most citizens of Seoul. Chances are that if you haven’t lived in the Nowon district, you haven’t had a reason to visit until now. There are two reasons to plan a visit Nowon-gu soon: the recent opening of the newest branch of the Seoul Museum of Art and the upcoming demolition of the last “moon village” left in Seoul. Seeing both will fill a day.

Buk Seoul Museum of Art, with the peaks of Bukhansan National Park in the distance

11 A museum for the community The Buk SeMA, or Buk Seoul Museum of Art (T. 02-2124-5201, http://sema.seoul.go.kr), was planned as a project to provide a community distant from the center of Seoul with access to the fine arts. The environmentally friendly building rises like a small grass-covered hill at the north end of the Deungnamu Park, surrounded by walls of apartments. Designed by Korean architecture firm Samoo Architects & Engineers, the museum won the 2013 Seoul Architecture Award. As one enters the expansive and brightly lit lobby, the sounds of the inflating and deflating of the hanging plastic sculptures Laputa by Lee Byeong-chal fill the space with sounds similar to wind gently blowing through trees. The bright and bold art displayed is primarily work by contemporary Korean artists and appropriate for all members of the family. The galleries show rotating mixed collections of work: photography, paintings, sculptures and video art loosely based around general themes such as “I love Seoul”, “New Scenes” and “Beyond Korean Painting”. The result is one of the most enjoyable small displays of a wide variety of modern Korean art in Seoul. With parents in mind, the museum provides a playroom, nursing room, free strollers, a small children’s gallery, a café, restaurant, art library, and underground parking. The bottom floors of the museum are a cultural center with classrooms and an auditorium providing space for community arts classes and performances. Buk SeMA opens at 10 AM and is closed on Mondays. With winter hours in effect, the museum currently closes at 6 PM. Admission is free and staff is stationed throughout the galleries to discuss works with visitors.

The last “moon village” A reminder of the Seoul that once was, Baeksa Village was founded in 1967 by former residents of Cheonggyecheon and Wangsimni who were forced by the government to relocate due to large urban renewal projects. The city allocated land for resettlement at the western base of Mt. Buramsan, and such settlements became known a “moon villages,” or daldongnae. These types of low-income areas throughout Korea were called moon villages due to the sweeping views of the sky provided by looking out from the low buildings, often built into undesirable hillsides. Baeksa Village is the last such remaining moon village in Seoul. Murals scattered along walls tell the story of the history of the village and its struggles. Many of the village’s winding, narrow alleyways and humble cinderblock homes have fallen into disrepair. The majority of residents are now elderly. Problematically, much heating is still done by burning charcoal. Fires, dilapidation, and the passing of a generation have resulted in an increasing number of abandoned homes. In attempts to conserve cultural history, the village has been thoroughly mapped and residents interviewed. To explore this village is to step back into Seoul’s past. But time is running out to see Baeksa Village. It will be demolished in April of this year, and two thirds of the land will become high-rise apartments. Single story, low-income housing will be built on the remaining third of the land, and much of the organic layout of the village’s small streets will be recreated. The new developments are scheduled for completion in 2016.

While in Baeksa Village... 1. Be sure to get permission before taking photographs of people. You should do this everywhere in Korea, but especially here. And please, keep the noise down. Remember—people live here. 2. Be sure to watch out for cars, mopeds and people, even in the tight alleyways. 3. When you meet local residents, be polite and say hello, preferably in Korean.

Baeksa Village

Two months remain to meet the residents of Baeksa Village, explore, and perhaps photograph before demolition begins. The Buk SeMA: Hagye Station 하계역 (Line 7), Exit 1 Walk for 5 min. until you see a large rainbow-painted pedestrian bridge and the museum just beyond. Baeksa Village: Sanggye Station 상계역 (Line 4) Exit 4 Cross the pedestrian bridge, take a right, walk 20 meters, cross the street and take a left and walk 20 min. to the bus stop. Catch the 1142 bus and get off at the stop just after the bus makes a U-turn and you’re there. To leave, catch the 1142 at that same stop to return to Sanggye St. Near the 1142 bus stop at the base of Baeksa Village is the restaurant Yetgol Hanwoochon Saengogi (T. 02-9309284), a beef restaurant specializing in excellent 24-hour-simmered beef broths. It’s a perfect place to chat with locals over a hot bowl of soup before a walk exploring the village.

Dining & nightlife

Written by Daniel Gray

Samcheongdong area

Wasabi Gimbap Rolls Joseon Gimbap! 조선김밥 This classic gimbap restaurant in the Sogyeok-dong area has been around for over 20 years. Walking through their classical hanok door, you’ll enter their tiny restaurant that sits about 12 people. Joseon Gimbap is known for their high-quality rice rolls and noodles. Their odeng gimbap is made with poppy rice, fresh veggies, crunchy pickled veggies, egg, ham and wasabi-sauced fish cake. The wasabi is an inspired addition, for the sharp taste complements the savory sesame oil. They also have noodles which come bubbling to the table in a spicy fish broth. The noodles are delicate and should be eaten quickly, or they get soggy in the soup. There is also the creamy pork bijijang. This pot stew dish has creamy tofu with pork and tart kimchi. It is a perfect complement to the rice rolls. The place is only open until 4:30 PM each day so go there early for lunch or a midday snack. Joseon Gimbap

조선김밥

T. 02-723-7496

10 AM–4:30 PM

KRW 3,500–7,000 [ Map 3 B3]

City Hall area

Long Noodle Love at Yulim Myeon

유림면

The noodles at the 50-year-old Yulim Myeon are works of art. Theirㅜnaembi guksu comes bubbling to the table with a soft-poached egg with gooey yolk, a generous amount of fish cake and some fresh mugwort leaf. The noodles come out silky and long. They don’t cut the noodles here, for the length of the noodles lets guests know the chef’s skill and symbolizes long life and prosperity. Their buckwheat noodles are world class: silky with a light buckwheat flavor. The noodles are perfectly al dente. The secret is in the sauce. Their red chili paste is sautéed with ground pork and other seasonings and topped with ground sesame seed, pickled cucumbers and spinach. The flavor is a little spicy, with plenty of sesame flavor throughout. With noodles this skillfully made, this restaurant has a bright long future ahead. Yulim Myeon

유림면

T. 02-755-0659

[ Map 1

KRW 7,000–9,000

B4] City Hall Station 시청역 (Line 1 & 2), Exit 12.

Itaewon area

Healthy, MSG-free Chinese food at Dae Han Gak 대한각 This health-focused and locally sourced Chinese restaurant prides itself in making their food without MSG. The restaurant grows many of their ingredients on their own farm. They are especially famous for their yellow cherry tomatoes, which have a brightly tart flavor. Diners can choose either their ala carte option or to do a coursed meal. The restaurant can do classic Chinese dishes, but I find their fusion menus to be more interesting. Dishes range from their delicious fried prawns with tangy tomato sauce, braised sea cucumbers with pig’s trotter, sautéed organic greens, and braised shark fin with papaya. For those looking for something familiar, their MSG-free jjajamyeon and jjampong are delicious. My personal favorite is the tomato beef noodle. The beef is ever so tender and the broth is so bright and warming, you'll be licking the bowl. Dae Han Gak

대한각

T. 02-798-9990

[ Map 8

B4]

KRW 7,000 and up

11 PM–10 PM

11 AM–9 PM

Shopping

It’s Camping… with Style A Crash course in looking and feeling like a glamper, er, camper

Written by Deanne Nguyen

any people don’t realize that camping—or “glamping” (glamorous camping)—in Korea is in fact a sporting event and, like most fullcontact sports, equipment prices can be unkind. This may be because, according to the Joongang Daily, popular foreign brands such as North Face hike up their prices as a reaction to the Korean market demand, though said-companies did not explicitly state reasons why. Regardless, for cheaper options, even stepping into camping markets like Shinjin (신진시 장, Jongno 5-Ga) and being greeted with stall after stall of unsorted tents, lanterns, sleeping bags, travel bags, and a number of other accessories could be considered. To alleviate qualms about the overwhelming array of camping gear, Seoul hosts it’s own International Camping Fair from Feb. 27 to Mar. 2 at the KINTEX exhibitions hall. The fair is geared towards camping aficionados and chobo’s, or beginners, alike; revealing the latest in equipment, brands, trends, and even cooking techniques. Here, would-be campers are encouraged to invest in the newest model of La Fuma tents—averaging about KRW 1.5 million— while others consider upgrading to a two burner portable grill from Snow Peak, upwards of KRW 600,000. Whatever happened to grilling hotdogs by the fire pit or sleeping under the stars? Amidst the eager attendants, the discord between the rugged, roughin-it image of Western camping and the curated, manicured version of the East is even more deafening. Clothing brands have also acknowledged and adapted the camping craze into

their own diffusion lines. Bean Pole, popular for its colorful preppy aesthetics, has taken it a step further with it’s own outdoor label, thereby simplifying the entire outdoor experience altogether. Several times throughout the year, the company hosts “Glamping Festivals” (2 nights, 3 days) and opens its “Glamping Villages” at various locations, all celebrating the pastime in luxury: room-y tents with a view, gas powered steel grills, dinner table place settings, and even wine ready for future “glamping-holics.” Celebrity attendance, naturally, is common; last year’s guest was Suji from miss A.

Interview

A Step Ahead Hair designer and beauty expert Cha Hong focuses on the individual Written by Kim Hansol

ha Hong not only gives you her undivided attention but makes sure you know it. When you speak the folds of her huge baby-like eyes deepen and her upper torso slightly tilts forwardâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;her body language makes every suggestion that she follows you word-for-word. Her attitude is almost studious. She is a star hair designer and a beauty director, but you would trust her with a lot more than your hair.

Goings-on around town

PREVIEWs

Baths Rolling Hall Mar 8, 11pm T. 02-325-6071, http:// KRW 40,000–45,000 [ Map 7 E1] lasrevinu.org

Tanztheater Wuppertal Pina Bausch Vollmond (Full Moon) LG Art Center Mar 28–Apr 3 T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com KRW 40,000–120,000 역삼역 (Line 2), Exit 8. Walk into the first alley on your left and you’ll see it.

Yeoksam Station

The late legendary choreographer Pina Bausch’s Tanztheater Wuppertal is presenting Vollmond (Full Moon) in Seoul. It is one of the last pieces she choreographed before dying in 2009, aged 68. Full Moon is a work full of delightful moments and ecstasy, like her other pieces. At the same time, it is complete with danger and the anxiety of life, just like the way we hurt each other and ourselves by accident or on purpose. The 150-minute work is divided into two acts, each featuring a series of extremely short overlapping dance sketches. The first act is charged with libidinal energy and high on outsized emotion and an eagerness for experimentation. Couples form and part, flirt and punish, and occasionally yell at the audience. The second act shifts to the more general problem of community building. Typical of Bausch’s work, there is much running and leaping and clutching, some of it joyful.

The Hongdae indie scene is ready to give a hearty welcome to American electronic musician Will Wiesenfeld, who is better known by his stage name Baths. With his 2010 debut album “Cerulean,” he soared his way out of the oversaturated electronic and club scene in LA. Thanks to his arty, experimental, yet humanist approach on glitch-pop. Wiesenfeld is now seen as a friendly wunderkind of digital pop music, even though “Cerulean” is often comfortably categorized under the loose “chillwave” umbrella of Toro Y Moi and Washed Out. Baths’s recent effort “Obsidian” is an altogether more stark, introspective affair than “Cerulean” in both tone and songwriting, shaped partly by Wiesenfeld’s depressed disposition. In 2011, he was struck down by a dire bout of E. coli, leaving him bedridden for months on end.

Musashi by Yukio Ninagawa Concert LG Art Center

Mar 21–23

T. 02-2005-0114, www.lgart.com

KRW 30,000--70,000

Yeoksam Station 역삼

역 (Line 2), Exit 8. Walk into the first alley on your left and you’ll see it.

Celebrated Japanese director Yukio Ninagawa returns to the LG Arts Center with his masterwork Musashi that questions the samurai ethos and cult of violent retribution. Set in early 17th century Japan, the play focuses on the rivalry between two legendary swordsmen who meet again at a Buddhist temple. They agree to fight another decisive duel in three days’ time. In the interim, they are regaled with songs and stories by the monks who seek to end the cycle of violence. Although the production, played in Japanese, runs for three hours, it is remarkable for its lightness, speed and benevolent pacifist instinct. ENGLISH BOOKING

T http://ticket.interpark.com/global

MUSEUMS

Classical music

Cheonggyecheon Stream, 1930 Special Exhibition Hall, Cheong Gye Cheon Museum Thru Mar 3

Sound of Spring with Nanse Gum & Euro-Asian Phil Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 2

Free T. 02-2286-3410 www.cgcm.go.kr Sangwangsimni Station 상왕십리역 (Line 2), Exit 2. Take maeul bus no. 8, get off at Seongdong Welfare Complex.

KRW 20,000–60,000 T. 02-3473-8744 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Jongga, the Head Family of a Respected Clan National Folk Museum of Korea Thru Mar 3 T. 02-3704-3114 www.nfm.go.kr [ Map 3 A2]

The Habsburg Monarchy and Hungarian Aristocratic Society National Palace Museum of Korea Thru Mar 9 Free T. 02-3701-7500 www.gogung.go.kr [ Map 1 B2]

Ahn Eak Tai Memorial Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 3 KRW 50,000–200,000 T. 02-576-3332 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Bachsolisten Seoul `Johannes Passion ` Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 4 KRW 20,000–50,000 T. 02-541-2512 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Spanish Heart Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 5 KRW 30,000–120,000 T. 02-3487-0678 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Opera La Boheme Opera Theater, Seoul Arts Center Mar 5–7 TBA T. 02-518-0154 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Viennese School Series ‘Opening’: Son Yeol Eum & Arie Vardi Duo Kumho Art Hall Mar 6 KRW 30,000–40,000 T. 02- 6303-1977 www.kumhoarthall.com [ Map 1 B3]

London Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 10 KRW 60,000–300,000 T. 02-599-5743

www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Il Giardino Armonico Concert Hall, Seongnam Arts Center Mar 12 KRW 40,000–100,000 T. 031-783-8000 www.snart.or.kr Imae Station 이매역 (Line Bundang), Exit 1

VIDEO CONCERTO No.1 LG Arts Center Mar 13 KRW 30,000–70,000 T. 02-2005-0114 www.lgart.com [ Map 11 C3]

Michel Plasson Conducts Berlioz Symphonie Fantastique Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 14 KRW 10,000–70,000 T. 1588-1210 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429. ´

Steve Barakatt Opera House, Seongnam Arts

Center Mar 14 KRW 33,000–88,000 T. 031-783-8000 www.snart.or.kr Imae Station 이매역 (Line Bundang), Exit 1 Don Giovanni CJ Towol Theater, Seoul Arts Center Mar 12–16 KRW 20,000–80,000 T. 02-586-5282 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

German Chamber Orchestra Berlin (DKO) Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 17 KRW 50,000–150,000 T. 02-585-4055 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Three Tenors Romanza Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 18 KRW 40,000–100,000 T. 1661-1605 www.sac.or.kr

Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

The National Chorus of Korea the 152nd Regular Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 20 KRW 10,000–50,000 T. 02-587-8111 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Mathieu Dufour Invitation Concert Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 22 TBA T. 031-392-6422 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Prades Pablo Casals Festival in Korea, 2014 Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Center Mar 23 KRW 20,000–60,000 T. 1544-5142 www.sac.or.kr Nambu Bus Terminal Station 남부 터미널역 (Line 3), Exit 5. Transfer to shuttle bus, or green bus No. 4429.

Maps & guides 39

Food/beverages SHERATON SEOUL D CUBE CITY HOTEL

쉐라톤디큐브시티호텔

Sindorim

www.sheratonseouldcubecity.co.kr, T. 02-2211-2000 Sindorim Station 신도림역 (Line 1 & 2), Exit 1.

Accomodation W Seoul Walkerhill Hotel

March

HOT SPOTS

The lounge bar at Sheraton Seoul D-Cube City Hotel is now holding its “All About Strawberries” event every Friday until the end of March, between 2 and 5 in the afternoon. Feast on a variety of strawberry-based delights—from scrumptious strawberry macarons to strawberry fondue spilling from our exquisite chocolate fountain—all while taking in the glorious view of Seoul from 41 stories above. Top off the decadence by indulging in one of their cakes from the Strawberry Buffet. (KRW 27,500 per person, tax not included.)

Gwangnaru

W호텔

The W Seoul-Walkerhill Hotel is now offering its guests the perfect way to say goodbye to winter’s cold and usher in spring’s warmth with its “W Hot Spring” package (KRW 315,000 per person, for 2 people). This lavish spa experience offers guests a restful night in one of WOW's sensibly decorated rooms, after which they can wake up to a sumptuous breakfast buffet. Guests are then treated to a “waterzone” pool overlooking Seoul’s Hangang River. To top it all off, free admission is offered to the hotel’s “10th Anniversary Mini Cake” celebration.

SEOUL’s PICKS OF PLACES AROUND TOWN

www.facebook.com/Wseoulwalkerhill T. 02-465-2222 Gwangnaru Station 광나루역 (Line 5), Exit 2. Take the shuttle to W Hotel which arrives every ten minutes.

8 9 12

Beauty

Madison Avenue Nail and Spa

메디슨 에비뉴 네일 앤 스파

Apgujeong

Madison Avenue Nail & Spa goes beyond the traditional nail salon, staying true to the “spa” in its name: calm music and elegant art form a peaceful atmosphere where customers can not only freshen up their nails but find true relaxation. After operating a chain of successful salons in Manhattan, CEO Park Gyeongmi decided to return to Korea to create a whole new type of nail salon, offering massage therapy and other beauty treatments for a fuller experience. Named after the famous “Madison Avenue,” this is where ladies go for some real downtime.

Map

Seoul’s old downtown

Map

www.madison-nail.com, 02-3448-2444 Apgujeong Rodeo Station 압구정 로데오역 (Line Bundang), Exit 4. It's a five minutes walk but use this address as a reference: Apgujeong-ro 80 gil 38

Insa-dong A whimsical neighborhood of Korean antiques and art galleries

Map

Samcheong-dong / Bukchon

Map

차홍 아르더 아르더

Cheongdam-dong

At Chahong Ardor Beauty House, customers are treated as unique individuals with aesthetic potential. CEO and founder Cha Hong believes that hair-stylists are creative artists, or hair designers—a philosophy she puts into practice when training her stylists. Prospective designers are encouraged to express themselves while simultaneously perfecting their own technique. Every cut is its own masterpiece. Customers are offered an array of reading material, from magazines to novels, and are exposed to therapeutic aromas for a truly relaxing experience. Interiors for all three branches are based on the theme of “atelier + artist” with a Northern European feel.Try visiting the latest addition to the Chahong family, the Chungdam Branch. http://www.chahongardor.com, T. 02-557-8520~1 Shops in Gangnam, Apgujeong and Cheongdam. See website for directions.

Myeong-dong

Map

Dongdaemun Feel the energy in the city’s largest market

Map

Hangangjin Quickly turning itself into the trendiest spot in town

Map

Yeouido The Manhattan of Seoul

Map

Sinchon / Ewha Two of Seoul’s hippest college town areas

Itaewon The heart of Seoul’s multicultural community

The lively commercial district where shopping and history meet Map

Hongdae Drink, dance and be merry in Seoul’s university district

Tradition and modernity in beautiful harmony

beauty Chahong Ardor

Gwanghwamun Area

Gangnam Area Dynamic business district south of the river

Map

Jamsil Area Lotte World and beyond