Spioenkop Pinot Noir

Not all Benelux winemakers are growing grapes on our local soils. Some have ventured far and wide, seeking fortune in distant lands, with different climates and distinct grape varieties. Many are now making wines – and waves – all around the globe.

Like Koen Roose, a Flemish engineer, who, after sommelier training and starting a wine import business, worked as an assistant winemaker in Burgundy and on South African estates. While searching for a plot of land to build a holiday home, he found a vacant 50-hectare farm in South Africa’s Elgin Valley. This is where, in 2008, Spioenkop Wines came to life, producing its first vintage in 2011.

Koen is a rebel at heart; wilful and outspoken. Yet his wines exude an elegance, nuance and purity that reveal a poet’s soul. The en- tire ‘Spioenkop’ range, also featuring Chenin Blanc, Riesling and Pinotage, is splendid. But my wine of choice for June is his Pinot Noir –an excellent ambassador for the Elgin Valley’s cool yet sun-kissed growing conditions.

The 2015 vintage is at peak maturity now, offering enticing aromas of violets, forest fruits, black pepper, coffee and baking spices. Savoury notes of cloves, autumn leaves, charred wood and smoky bacon provide further depth. With smooth tannins and a modest alcohol percentage, this is a classy, food-friendly wine with a seductive personality. Just in time for the prime barbecue season!

Vintage 2015. 12.5% alcohol. Serve at 14-16°C.

Ageing recommendation: drink now. Points of sale are listed on www.spioenkopwines.co.za

Van Gogh in Auvers. His Final Months is on show at the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, and runs until 3 September 2023.