Summer 2012

ryukyu star the

Editor Ayli Chong

Visual Editor Jd Banks

Copy Editor Kathryn Strong

Prefectural Advisors Ryan Ohta and Elizabeth Reuter

Published by Okinawa Prefectural Government

Contact us at ryukyustar@ajet.net

summer 2012

1‐3 Editors’ Notes Ayli Chong and Jd Banks

4‐6 A word from the PAs Ryan Ohta and Elizabeth Reuter

7‐8 The Year of Fear Ava Newell

9‐10 Ishiganto Dave Edwards

11‐14!"#$%!&'()*+!,$(-*%!./#*,0, !!"#$%&'($!)&*+$

15‐16!1-$#/-$, Sarra McMillan

17‐18!2,/,$,3-/,!456-5!456#50 Elizabeth Reuter

19‐22 Malaysia Kathryn Strong

23‐28!275!&58$59!:%65*9-$5;!(<!45/#(!975!=#(* Grant Minagawa

29‐32!=5,'#*+!#*9(!,!>50!:%65*9-$5 Angi Brzycki

33‐34!=5,'!#*9(!,!>50!?(@5 Jd Banks

35 Call for Contributors

from the editors ss the i m u o y will sun? n a w a n i ok

!"#$%&'()*+,-./ ,-#! ./($&0&! 12,3! &*#! &! 4$(54#! 6*7489! :#! 7;#$! <##=! >7$?$#@! A7! 74*! B&*(743! (3=&$@! -7'#3C! D#AC! 74*! =7>&‐ +7$! &E7*@3! 43! A-#! 7887*A4$(AD! A7! *#64=&*=D! B#$A4*#! 7E‐ shore and explore. We’re experts at leaping about.

Various stories and experiences as a result of our leaping about can be found in this summer issue of the Ryukyu Star FGHI9! J&B#! 2@0&*@K3! &*+>=#! <#&A4*#3! &3! 74*! =#&@! 3A7*D! 0(A-! an art showcase that traveled beyond physical and cultur‐ al borders. While our work as JETs largely involves us shar‐ ($6!74*!70$!>4=A4*#!0(A-!1&8&$!F&$@!38#>(?>&==DC!./($&0&IC! J&B#! @#'7$3A*&A#3! ($! &! B#*D! >7$>*#A#! 0&DC! -70! 0#! &=37! share Okinawa with other countries. Our regular contribu‐ A7*3!0-(3/!43!&0&D!7$!A-#(*!&@B#$A4*#39!L&+#!HA*7$6!A&/#3! &! @(B#! ($A7! )&=&D3(&M3! N#*-#$+&$! O3=&$@39! P*&$A! )($&6&0&! amuses us with another amazing Reiko adventure. Angi Brzycki captures the highs and joys of life through her handy =#$39! 1@! "&$/3! Q77*3! 43! &6&($! &3! B(34&=! #@(A7*C! &3! 0#==! &3! &!

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our brave editor!

1

:(A-!A-#!&**(B&=!7<!34''#*C!(AM3!-&*@!A7!<7*6#A!A-&A!37'#!=(B#3! are about to be changed. Some of us are embarking on a new >-&8A#*!($!74*!=(B#3!&3!74*!+'#!($!./($&0&!&3!./(12,3!>7'#!

A7! &! >=73#9! N#*37$&==DC! O! 8=&$! A7! *#A4*$! A7! T43A*&=(&! <7*! 7$#!

'7$A-C!A-#$!QD!R&>/!A7!1&8&$!A7!R#6($!3A4@D($6! &A! &! 1&8&‐ $#3#!=&$64&6#!3>-77=!48!7$!'&($=&$@!1&8&$9!O!-78#!'D!=#&8‐ ($6!&*74$@!@7#3$MA!3A78!A-#*#U(<!A-#*#M3!7$#!A-($6!'D!+'#! ($!1&8&$!-&3!A&46-A!'#C!(AM3!A7!=#&8!($A7!0-&A#B#*!7887*A4$(‐ +#3! &*(3#9! :(A-74A! A-(3! &VA4@#C! O! 074=@! $7A! -&B#! >-#>/#@!

7E! 3#B#*&=! (A#'3! 7$! 'D! R4>/#A! =(3A! F'&($=D! B(3(+$6! B&*(743! =7>&+7$3!&*74$@!1&8&$IW!8&*+>(8&A#@!($!37'#!&'&X($6!=7>&=!

&$@!($A#*$&+7$&=!&>+B(+#3!A-*746-!B&*(743!07*/!7887*A4$(‐ +#3W! '&@#! 37'#! =(<#Y=7$6! R4@@(#3! 0(A-! A-#! =7>&=3W! R##$! 37! much more enriched by Japanese culture and language than OM@!#B#*!('&6($#@W!7*!#B#$!R#>7'#!#@(A7*!7<!A-(3!'&6&X($#Z OA!0&3!#[>(+$6!A7!3##!&$@!A&/#!8&*A!($!A-#!GHM3!%4'8!($A7!&!A7‐ A&==D!7$=($#!#[8#*(#$>#!@4*($6!'D!+'#!&3!#@(A7*9!T=37C!07*/‐ ing on this magazine made me appreciate the broader un‐ @#*3A&$@($6!7<!\#@4>&+7$]9!T3!0#!07*/!&3!#@4>&A7*3!A7!37'#! #[A#$A!&3!12,3C!OM'!34*#!A-&A!D74!>&$!&88*#>(&A#!A-(3!'&6&X($#! &3!&$!&B#$4#!<7*!#@4>&+7$U0#!#@4>&A#!7$#!&$7A-#*!7$!74*! @(E#*#$A!#[8#*(#$>#3!&$@!($A#*#3A3!($!./($&0&9!O!-78#!A-#!<4‐ A4*#!7<!A-#!GH!>7$+$4#3!A-(3!A*#$@!&$@!A-#*#RD!>7$+$4#3!A7! build a sense of community within the OkiJET circle despite 74*! 3>&^#*#@! =7>&+7$39! O! =77/! <7*0&*@! A7! /##8($6! ($! A74>-!

0(A-!A-#!&>+B(+#3!7<!A-#!./(12,!>7''4$(AD!&3!O!*#&@!<4A4*#!

(334#3!0(A-!74*!B#*D!70$!A*&B#=!0*(A#*C!L&+#!HA*7$6C!3A#88($6! ($!&3!A-#!$#0!#@(A7*9!O!-78#!&$@!A*43A!-#*!#[8#*(#$>#!7$!A-(3! '&6&X($#!0(==!R#!&3!<4=?==($6!<7*!-#*!&3!(A!-&3!R##$!<7*!'#9

”Tandi-ga-tandi!

Thank you!”

O! '43A! #[A#$@! 'D! 4A'73A! A-&$/3! A7! #B#*D7$#! 0-7M3! '&@#!

A-(3!'&6&X($#!8733(R=#9!1@!"&$/3UD74*!>*#&+B(AD!0&3!*#>76‐ nized from the moment you entered your winning entry into A-#!./(12,!AY3-(*A!@#3(6$!>7'8#++7$9!OM'!37!6*&A#<4=!A-&A!D74! &=37!@#>(@#@!A7!6(B#!D74*!+'#!&$@!3/(==3!A7!A-(3!'&6&X($#9!GD&$!

Ohta and Elizabeth—thanks for your constant support and help in ensuring the magazine reached its audience. To our *#64=&*!>7$A*(R4A7*3!L&+#C!T$6(C!P*&$AC!F&$@!4$7_>(&==DC!"#$! )&*+$I!UA-&$/3!<7*!&=0&D3!R#($6!*#&@D!A7!?==!A-(3!'&6&X($#!

0(A-!D74*!A&=#$A39!,7!74*!7$#Y7E!64#3A!>7$A*(R4A7*3UA-&$/3! for choosing to share your thoughts and lives via the RS. And A7!A-#!./(12,!>7''4$(AD!&$@!<*(#$@3UA-&$/3!<7*!*#&@($6Z!.*C! &3!A-#!8#78=#!7<!)(D&/7%('&!3&DC!K,&$@(Y6&YA&$@(9M!,-&$/!D749

2

visual editor

Jd 2012 Summer 2012 give me chocolate uchinaaguchi thailand

Spring 2012

3

spring 2012 An OkiJET Publication

(because she’s not going anywhere) Although this is the last issue for many re‐ A4*$($6! A7! A-#(*! -7'#! >74$A*(#3C! (AM3! $7A! A-#! =&3A! +'#! A7! =#&8! ($A7! &$! &@B#$A4*#9! T;#*! &==C! beginnings are prompted only by endings. ,-#! >7B#*! <7*! A-(3! 34''#*! (334#C! `#&8C! 0&3! ($‐ 38(*#@! RD! 7$#! 7<! 'D! <&B7*(A#! <&3-(7$! '7@#=3C! G(3&9!a#*!87*b7=(7!(3!&'&X($6C!#38#>(&==D!-#*!>7$‐ 3#>4+B#! &88#&*&$>#3! ($! .66(! )&6&X($#9! .$#! 7<! her best shots from Oggi Magazine shows her leaping against a blistering‐white background as if a trampoline had been set underneath her <##A9! c3($6! -#*! &3! &! '7@#=! F84$! ($A#$@#@IC! O! >*#‐ ated the image of a person leaping over a city. c$=(/#!A-#!,($/=#!)#!N($/!(334#C!A-(3!(334#!(3!@&*/‐ #*!($!8&=#^#C!'7*#!@D$&'(>!($!('&6#*DC!&$@!'7*#! text‐loaded than before—a good departure from 8($/C!OM@!3&DZ!T$@!(*7$(>&==DC!A-#!3AD=#!($!A-(3!7B#*‐ &==! (334#! (3! B#*D! <4$! &$@! R4RR=DC! #38#>(&==D! 0(A-! all of the random graphics and side comments. ,7!TD=(C!A-#!GD4/D4!HA&*!0(==!'(33!(A3!=&A#3A!#@(A7*Z! T$@!A7!74*!$#0!#@(A7*C!L&A-*D$C!=77/($6!<7*0&*@!A7!

07*/($6!0(A-!D74Z!!)D!'#33&6#!A7!&==!A-#!*#A4*$‐ #*3d!P77@!=4>/!74A!A-#*#Z!,-#!'($@3!A-&A!D74!-&B#! changed and the memories that you have helped <7*6#!07$MA!R#!<7*67^#$!RD!A-73#!D74!-&B#!A74>-#@9

tickled pink

Ryukyu Star

'01%&'(!23!4./

a word from the PAs 5678'9:;$'<=>'?#$@ABCDE'4FGHFI

-%./01%2$#%31*45%62+,%70#%827#$9+::2$;% (0+6%<26%=17%2=%#=81*$2>+=>%19#=+=>%?1$%2%81=@#$62A1=;% !:+8#%$#9:+#,4%$270#$%603:34%.BCB%02$,:3%D=1<4%E+$4%F*67%27%9$#6#=7GG27%:#267%B%D=1<% <01%B%<26%<0#=%B%>17%*9%70+6%H1$=+=>4%I*7%B%70+=D%B%H*67%02@#%802=>#,%6#@#$2:% AH#6%6+=8#%70#=;5J% U!`#0(3!e&**7==C!T=(>#!($!:7$@#*=&$@ -K1$% >11,% 2=,% #@+:4% H2=% +6% 2% ?$##% 8$#2A@#% 69+$+7;% (0+6% 9$1,*8#6% 70#% @#$3% L*##$% <1$:,%<#%:+@#%+=4%2%<1$:,%+=%81=A=*1*6%8$#2A1=%2=,%70#$#?1$#%81=A=*1*6%802=>#% 2=,%+=6#8*$+73;J% — Joyce Cary :-(=#! 48@&+$6! A-#! !"#$% &'(% )*+,#% this past '7$A-C! O! 0&3! ($38(*#@! A7! &@@! &! 677@! -&=<Y@7X#$!

547A#3! &R74A! >-&$6#! A7! (AC! '4>-! '7*#! A-&$! -&@! been there before. Searching through the words 7<!6*#&A!0*(A#*3!&$@!<&'743!?64*#3C!O!<74$@!'&$D! 8-*&3#3! A-&A! '&@#! 3#$3#! A7! '#C! &$@! *&$6! A*4#! in a way they might not have only weeks before. ,-746-! 0#C! &3! -4'&$! R#($63C! /$70! ($A#==#>‐ A4&==D! A-&A! >-&$6#! (3! ($#B(A&R=#C! (AM3! $7A! 4$‐ +=! >-&$6#! (3! 487$! 43! A-&A! 0#! <##=! A-#! 0#(6-A! of decisions we’ve made and the future that’s >7'($69! OAM3! =(/#! R#($6! 3A4>/! ($! >#'#$A! 0(A-! &!

38##@($6C! -7$/($6! A*4>/! R&**#=($6! *(6-A! <7*! 439! a70#B#*!0#==!0#MB#!8*#8&*#@C!A-#!'7'#$A!0-#$! $7A-($6! (3! >#*A&($C! <#&*! &$@! '(3A&/#3! <7==709! ,-(3! =#&@3!A7!$73A&=6(&!<7*!&!\3('8=#*]!+'#!($!74*!=(B#3! and a clinging to the familiar. Because everyone @7#3! (AC! (AM3! >=#&*=D! &! -4'&$! A*&(A! &$@! $7A-($6!

A7! R#! &3-&'#@! 7<9! O<! 37'#! 8#78=#! @7$MA! 4$@#*‐ 3A&$@C!0#==C!O!R#A!D74!@(@$MA!#(A-#*!4$+=!A-&A!A*4>/! was right on your head. They’ll have their day. f7*! $70C! 0-#A-#*! D74M*#! =#&B($6! ./($&0&! 7*! $7AC! you’ll be saying goodbye to people you treasure.

The teacher who went above and beyond to help D74! 3#^=#! ($! 0-#$! D74! 67A! -#*#W! A-#! 3#$8&(! 12,! who helped you navigate your way through Japa‐ $#3#!>4=A4*#W!<*(#$@3!D74!@*&$/C!3A4@(#@C!&$@!6*#0!

R#3(@#!($!0&D3!D74M*#!3+==!?64*($6!74A9!O!@7$MA!/$70!

0-#*#!D74*!=(B#3!0(==!=#&@!D74!$#[AC!R4A!A-#!A-($63! they’ve taught and done for you are a part of you forever. Hold onto them as you move forward.

O<! D74M==! &==70! '#! A7! 3A#&=! 7$#! =&3A! 547A#d! \T@B#$A4*#!

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4

a word from the PAs

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A shocking thought came over me a 0-(=#! R&>/g\H7C! A-(3! (3! *#&==D! (AC! -4-h] :&3! +$/($! @&A! O! 67! *(A#! 34'+$! =(/#! e-*(3! 0#$! @7! =&3A! D#&C! 7&! 34'+$! =(M@&AC! R4A! @#$! O! 0#$! $7‐ +>#! 34'+$g/($@&! -&-@! <7! *(A#! @&! /($#C! &-h!

H7! 37**D! A7! @&! R*4@@&-3! &$@! 3(3A&-3C! R4A! A*D‐ ing fo rite in pidgin small kine too hahd fo me. `77/($6! A-*746-! &! R77/3-#=<! ($! 'D! &8&*A'#$AC! O! >&'#!&>*733!&$!7=@!>78D!7<!,-#!iTL9!OA!0&3!A-#!H4'‐ '#*!jkkl!(334#C!@(3A*(R4A#@!'&DR#!&!'7$A-!7*!37!R#‐ <7*#!O!#B#$!&**(B#@!($!./($&0&9!O$3A#&@!7<!8*7'8A=D! @(3873($6!7<!(AC!O!8*7>##@#@!A7!8#*43#!(AC!&$@!<74$@! &! '#33&6#! <*7'! A-#! #@(A7*! A-&A! O! A-746-A! &8A=D! summed up my feelings of the JET experience. So if (A!3##'3!=(/#!D74MB#!-#&*@!A-(3!R#<7*#C!'D!&87=76(#39! \)D!+'#!($!./($&0&!-&3!R##$!=(/#!&!@*#&'9!m7A!R#‐ cause everything was completely great and wonder‐ <4=! FA-746-! &='73A! #B#*DA-($6! A*4=D! 0&3IC! R4A! '7*#!

5

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a(C!./(12,3C ,-(3!(3!P*&$A!)($&6&0&C!*#87*+$6!<7*!@4AD9!OM==!R#!A&/‐ ing over Ryan Ohta as the new Ken JET PA in August.

For the newbies and those of you who may not know '#C!OM'!>4**#$A=D!&A!O3-(/&0&!HaH!&$@!e-4R4!m7*($!

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A-#!N73AYHJe!2B#$AC!&9/9&9!NY".,Z!OM==!R#!&3>#$@($6!A-#!

A-*7$#!($!'D!n*@!D#&*!7$!12,C!&$@!O!8*7'(3#!A7!>7$+$4#!

A-#!=7$6!&$@!8*738#*743!@D$&3AD!7<!a&0&((!12,!*4=#Z "4A!3#*(743=DC!A-(3!D#&*!0#MB#!R##$!=4>/DW!A-#*#!-&B#$MA! been any crises and everyone’s adjusted well. Next D#&*C!A-#*#M==!R#!&!0-7=#!=7A!7<!$#0!12,!R4$@=#3!7<!%7DC! 0(A-!7887*A4$(+#3!A7!6#A!A7!/$70!37'#!6*#&A!8#78=#! &$@!7B#*>7'#!37'#!-46#!>-&==#$6#39!!`#AM3!84A!74*!R#3A! feet (or paws) forward and welcome them together. `77/($6! <7*0&*@! A7! 07*/($6! 0(A-! D74! 377$Z

6

the year of

d!

i’m scare

FEAR

(0+$73%,236%0270%E#97#HI#$ !9$+:4%&*=#%2=,%M1@#HI#$ !::%70#%170#$6%02@#%70+$73G1=# 'N8#9A=>%K#I$*2$3%2:1=# /0+80%026%I*7%7<#=73G#+>07%,236%8:#2$ !=,%7<#=73G=+=#%+=%#280%:#29%3#2$OO ,X'!YQ'RFZ?[\

7

Do you remember this gem from kindergarten @&D3h!O!3+==!A*#&34*#!(A!&3!&!43#<4=!*#'($@#*!0-#$‐ #B#*!O!&'!($!&!54&$@&*D!&3!A7!A-#!$4'R#*!7<!@&D3! ($!#&>-!'7$A-9!i#AC!O!$#B#*!<7*6#A!0-#$!(A!(3!&!=#&8!

D#&*9!O!&$+>(8&A#!&!=#&8!D#&*!&3!\A-#!D#&*!A7!<#&*9] K"#! >&*#<4=9! OAM3! &! =#&8! D#&*CM! O! 0&3! &@'7$(3-#@! *#8#&A#@=D! 0-#$! O! 0&3! &! >-(=@9! KJ7$MA! A-*70!

3A7$#39! J7$MA! 999CM! &$@! A-#! =(3A! >7$+$4#3C! ($?‐ nitely. There seems to be something mysteri‐ 743! &R74A! &! =#&8! D#&*C! &$@! A-#! #=@#*3! '&@#! $7!

R7$#3! &R74A! (A9! f*7'! 6#$#*&+7$! A7! 6#$#*&‐ +7$! 8&33#A-! A-#! /$70=#@6#! 7<! #$(6'&+>! 7>‐ >4**#$>#3! 7$! &! =#&8! D#&*9! H74$@3! 3877/DC! $7h H7!O!0&3!>-(==#@!A7!A-#!38($#!0-#$!O!07/#!=&A#!7$#!

'7*$($6!A-(3!D#&*9!)D!<#&*!6*#0C!&$@!$7A!7$=D!R#‐ >&43#! O! '&D! $7A! 6#A! A7! 07*/! 7$! +'#9! ,-#! 8=&>#!

0&3!&!A*(Q#!@&*/!&$@!A-#!&(*!0&3!3+==9!H7'#A-($6!

0&3$MA! *(6-AC! O! A-746-A! &3! O! =#&8A! 4$A7! A-#! R&=‐ >7$D9! .4A3(@#C! 0&3! &! -(@#743! 6=77'! R#$#&A-! a shadowy sky reminiscent of a thunderstorm. ,-#! 34$! -&@! =73A! (A3! '&6$(?>#$>#! *#34=+$6! ($! &! dreary atmosphere. Was this a sign of the end 7<! -4'&$(ADh! ,-#! T*'&6#@@7$! 7*! A-#! .'#6&h! f#&*=#33=DC! O! 3#&*>-#@! &'(@3A! A-#! *&($! >=74@3! A7! =7>&A#! A-#! R&==! 7<! ?*#C! 7$=D! A7! R#! *#0&*@#@! 0(A-!

A-#! '73A! >*4#=! Q&3-! 7<! =(6-A! A-&A! &$D7$#! >74=@! ('&6($#9! .4>-Z! !"#$%N&8&**&X(ZZ! G4$ZZ :#==C!O!>74=@!*4$!R4A!O!>74=@$MA!-(@#9!)D!<&A#!@(@$MA! =(#! ($! 'D! -&$@39! m7! '&$! >&$! #3>&8#! -(3! @#3+$D9! :#! %43A! -&B#! A7! &>>#8A! A-#! 6(B#$9! T$@! D74! &$@! O! /$70! O! 0&3$MA! @#3+$#@! A7! R#! &! >#=#R*(ADC! -#$>#!

A-#!8&8&**&X(!0&3!74A!7<!A-#!54#3+7$9!O!=#&8A!<*7'!

A-#! R&=>7$DC! *4RR#@! 'D! R4*$($6! #D#3! &$@! >7$‐ soled myself that this occurrence could not be A-#!#$@!A-&A!37!'&$D!0#*#!&$[(743=D!&$+>(8&+$69! ,-(3!37=&*!#>=(83#!0&3!7$=D!A-#!?*3A!7<!A07!'&%7*! phenomena that have been predicted this year. .$#! @70$C! A07!

A7!

679!

,-#*#!0&3!'&6(>!($!A-#!&(*9!O!>74=@!<##=!'D!-#&*A! &>>#=#*&+$69! H4>-! 870#*! &$@! #$#*6D9! O! >74=@! &='73A! -#&*! "##A-7B#$M3! \.@#! A7! 17D]9! O! =#&8A!

&*74$@! A-#! *77'C! #$@#@! 'D! @&$>#! 0(A-! &! 8(*‐ 74#^#C! &$@! *#'&($#@! (''7R(=#9! ,-#*#M3! 434&==D! a calm before a storm. So in this period of tran‐ 54(=(ADC! O! *#%4B#$&A#@! <7*! A-#! $#[A! 8-#$7'#$&9!!

OM'! ('8&+#$AC! R4A! OM==! -&B#! A7! 0&(A! K+=! 34''#*!

0-#$! '&$D! $&+7$3! 0(==! =#&8! <*7'! &==! >7*$#*3! 7<!

A-#!07*=@!A7!>7$B#$#!($!`7$@7$!<7*!&$!#B#$A!A-&A! -&88#$3!7$=D!7$>#!#B#*D!<74*!D#&*39!T>A4&==DC!#B‐ #*D!=#&8!D#&*9!.$#!'&D!R#6!A-#!54#3+7$C!KO3!A-#*#! &$DA-($6!8-#$7'#$&=!&R74A!A-#!.=D'8(>!P&'#3hM! 2-C! @(E#*#$A! 3A*7/#3! <7*! @(E#*#$A! <7=/39! "4A! O! >&$! reassure you that this is the only event with an in‐ >*#@(R=#!&'74$A!7<!&@*#$&=($!&$@!($A#$3#!*(B&=*DC! yet lacking warfare. There’ll be non‐stop television >7B#*&6#!*#34=+$6!($!&$!#3>&=&+7$!7<!>74>-!87A&‐ A7#3C! &3A*7$7'(>&=! #=#>A*(>(AD! >7$34'8+7$C! &$@!

4$<7*6#^&R=#C!($>7$>#(B&R=#!$#0!&A-=#+>!*#>7*@39! a70! '4>-! <&3A#*! 0(==! A-#3#! &A-=#A#3! *4$h! a70!

'4>-!-(6-#*!&$@!=7$6#*!0(==!A-#D!%4'8!&$@!A-*70h .-! 0-&A! &! <##=($6ZZZ! OM'! #48-7*(>! &3! O! &$+>(‐ 8&A#! i#=#$&! O3($R&D#B&! &$@! o#*7$(>&! e&'8R#==Y "*70$! =#&8($6! A7! A-#(*! A-(*@! >7$3#>4+B#! .=D'‐ pic gold medals in the women’s pole vault and A07! -4$@*#@! '#A*#! #B#$A3! *#38#>+B#=D9! :(A-!

A-(3!R#($6!&!\D#&*!7<!<#&*]C!('8733(R=#!(3!$7A-($69 H('4=A&$#743=DC!A-(3!34''#*!A-#*#!0(==!R#!12,3!=#&8‐ ing in and out of Okinawa. To ye all remember that KA-#!*&>#!(3!$7A!7$=D!<7*!A-#!30(;C!R4A!<7*!A-73#!0-7! >&$!#$@4*#9!M!P*&38!A-#!>-&==#$6#3!&-#&@C!3#A!$#0! *#>7*@3C!*#37$&A#!0(A-!a#$*D!)(==#*C!KT==!6*70A-!(3! &!=#&8!($!A-#!@&*/C!&!387$A&$#743!8*#'#@(A&A#@!&>A! ...’ Acknowledge that the future is a mystery and <&A#!(3!D74*!'&3A#*9!"4AC!K"#!>&*#<4=9!OAM3!&!=#&8!D#&*9M m70C!

6#A!

7$!

D74*!

'&*/39!

H#A9!

`#&8Z!

P1<,3;% Q3% =2H#% +6% !@2% &;% M#<#::;% B% 02+:% ?$1H% 70#% :2=,% 1?% R#>>2#% H*6+8% 2=,% S:*#% Q1*=72+=%T1U##;%K1$%70#%9267%70$##%3#2$6% B5@#% I##=% <1$D+=>% 27% 70#% V$261#% E#=+1$% P+>0% E8011:;% B% 69#=,% H3% 692$#% AH#% $#2,G +=>4% <2780+=>% 691$76% W81280+=>% ?$1H% H3% :+@+=>% $11H4% 711X% 2=,% :+67#=+=>% 71% H*6+8;

8

ishiganto

One of the challenges of living abroad in a new and A7A&==D! @(E#*#$A! >74$A*D! (3! A-#! @(_>4=AD! 7<! 3-&*‐ ($6! D74*! #[8#*(#$>#3! 0(A-! 7A-#*3! R&>/! -7'#9! O$!

A-#!>&3#!7<!./($&0&C!(AM3!37!<&*!&0&D!&$@!#[8#$3(B#!

A-&A!<#0C!(<!&$DC!<&'(=D!&$@!<*(#$@3!&*#!=(/#=D!A7!B(3(A9 .$! A-#! 7A-#*! -&$@C! >4=A4*&=! #[>-&$6#! 7$! A-#!

JET Programme doesn’t only have to be about coming to Japan and learning about it here.

OA! >&$! &=37! R#! &! >-&$>#! A7! A&/#! &! 8&*A! 7<! 1&8&$! back to our own countries and share it there.

T$! #[&'8=#! 7<! A-(3! (3! A-#! KO3-(6&$A7M! #[-(R(+7$! 7$! @(38=&D!($!N#*A-C!:#3A#*$!T43A*&=(&C!($!)&D!jkpj9!)D! wife Cynthia came over to visit me in Okinawa for A-*##! '7$A-3! ($! =&A#! jkppC! &$@! A77/! R&>/! #$746-! ideas and raw materials to put a show together. :#! -&@! 8*#B(743=D! >7==&R7*&A#@C! R#<7*#! O! >&'#! A7! ./($&0&C! 7$! &! '7B(#! >&==#@! Kf(*3A! ,('#! T*74$@M! R&3#@! 7$! 74*! D#&*! =(B($6! ($! "43&$C! H74A-! L7*#&C! &$@! A-#! <7==70($6! A*(8! &>*733! T3(&C! G433(&! &$@! A-#! "&=/&$39! OA! 3>*##$#@! &A! A-#! m#0! q#&=&$@! f(='! T*‐ >-(B#! ($! f#R*4&*D! jkppC! &$@! 0#! &>>7'8&$(#@! (A! 0(A-! =(B#! '43(>(&$3! &$@! &$! #[-(R(+7$! 7<! &*+<&>A39 ,-(3!+'#!&*74$@C!$70!R&3#@!($!N#*A-C!eD$A-(&!'#A! local gallery director John Maranavich. John had 38#$A! &! =7A! 7<! +'#! ($! ,&(0&$C! 0&3! ($A#*#3A#@! ($!

9

,X']!^.'C_`!6]&

Taiwanese art and had been involved in exchanges A-#*#9! a#! 0&3! $&A4*&==D! >4*(743! &R74A! ./($&0&C! &$@! commissioned a show for his Queen Street Gallery ($! f*#'&$A=#! &;#*! 3##($6! 37'#! 7<! eD$A-(&M3! 3&'8=#39 Many of the pieces were based around pencil rubbings of /&$%(!<*7'!'7$4'#$A3C!>7==#>A#@!7$!74*!A*&B#=3!&*74$@! ./($&0&Y-7$A7C!O3-(6&/(!&$@!O*(7'7A#9!,-#!'73A!>7''7$!>-&*‐ acters seen around Okinawa are !"#7*!O3-(Y6&$YA79!

O3-(6&$A7!&*#!4R(54(A743!A-*746-74A!./($&0&!Y!A-746-! not mainland Japan ‐ and are most commonly found at A-#!($A#*3#>+7$!7<!A07!3A*##A39!O3-(6&$A7!*746-=D!'#&$3C! \&!3A7$#!A-&A!(334#3!&!>-&==#$6#!A7!74A3(@#*3]9!T$7A-#*! theory is that it is the name of a seventh century Chinese -#*7C!0-73#!$&'#!-&3!A-#!870#*!A7!0&*@!7E!#B(=!38(*(A39!!

T>>7*@($6! A7! e-($#3#! R#=(#<C! #B(=! 38(*(A3! A*&B#=! ($!

3A*&(6-A! =($#3C! 37! 8=&>($6! &$! O3-(6&$A7! &A! A-#! ($A#*3#>‐ +7$! 8*#B#$A3! A-#'! <*7'! >7$+$4($6! 8&3A! A-#! #$@! 7<!

A-#!*7&@!($A7!A-#!-743#39!O!('&6($#!A-#!877*!#B(=!38(*‐ (A3!@77'#@!A7!0&$@#*!A-#!3A*##A3!7<!./($&0&C!&=0&D3!

R74$>($6! 7E! A-#! O3-(6&$A7! =(/#! ($! &! 8($R&==! '&>-($#9 a&B($6! &$! #[-(R(+7$! A7! 07*/! A70&*@3C! eD$A-(&! @#‐ cided to present her works in a modern context mixing the rubbings with other elements. The co‐ =74*<4=! "($6&A&! >=7A-3! 7<! ./($&0&! '&@#! ($A#*#3+$6! <*&'#39! ,-#! 8*#3#$A&+7$! %4[A&873#@! A07! A*&@(+7$&=! #=#'#$A3! <*7'! ./($&0&! ($! &! $7$YA*&@(+7$&=! 0&D9

Cynthia had also made a number of other rub‐ R($63C! &$@! #$=(3A#@! A-#! -#=8! 7<! A07! N#*A-YR&3#@! ./($&0&$! 3A4@#$A3C! ,&/&-(/7! a(*&3&0&! &$@! J&$(#=! e4R&! F&$! ./($&0&$! N#*4B(&$IC! A7! =#&*$! A-#! '#&$‐ ings of the kanji. Takahiko consulted his moth‐ er in Naha via Skype to translate the rubbings.

The rubbings became more intriguing once translated. f7*!#[&'8=#C!A-#!*4RR($63!<*7'!O*(7'7A#!A7=@!A-#!3A7*D! 7<!@(E#*#$A!&^#'8A3!A7!8784=&A#!A-#!(3=&$@9!T$!&R&$‐ doned village on the island was located near a coal '($#! &! >#$A4*D! &67C! R4A! A-#! 3#^=#*3! @(#@! 7<! '&=&*(&! &$@! A-(3! 0&3! $7A! @(3>7B#*#@! 4$+=! A-#! >7&=! @#=(B#*(#3!

3A788#@9!,-#!(3=&$@!0&3!3#^=#@!&6&($!&;#*!:7*=@!:&*!OO9 Another rubbing from near Kadena turned out A7! R#! <*7'! &! '7$4'#$A! A7! A-#! ($A*7@4>+7$! 7<! sweet potatoes from China to Okinawa in 1605. ,-#!#[-(R(+7$!&=37!($>=4@#@!&*+<&>A3!34>-!&3!&!*#&=!O3-(‐ 6&$A7!3A7$#C!8(#>#3!7<!>7*&=C!&!8&(*!7<!H-(3&C!8-7A76*&8-3C! and two of Cynthia’s original Okinawa‐inspired paint‐ ($639!,-#!78#$($6!$(6-A!0&3!&!34>>#33C!0(A-!3&/#!&$@! #(3&!'43(>C!&$@!37'#!7<!74*!B(@#73!<*7'!./($&0&!F3##!

0009?E@('#$3(7$9>79$XI!8*7%#>A#@!7$!A-#!0&==!7<!A-#!

78873(A#!R4(=@($69!!H#B#*&=!8(#>#3!37=@C!0(A-!A-#!O3-(6&$‐ A7!<*&'#@!RD!"($6&A&!>=7A-!8*7B($6!8&*+>4=&*=D!8784=&*9 ,-#! 8*7>#33! 7<! 84V$6! A76#A-#*! A-#! #[-(R(+7$! -&3! deepened our understanding of Okinawa’s rich history &$@! >4=A4*&=! -#*(A&6#C! &$@! -&3! R##$! &$! 7887*A4$(AD!

A7!3-&*#!(A!0(A-!8#78=#!($!N#*A-C!0-(>-!(3!'D!$#[A! @#3+$&+7$!&;#*!12,9!OAM3!&=37!R##$!&!0&D!A7!'##A! some local Japanese and other people who’ve lived ($!1&8&$C!&$@!A7!78#$!48!37'#!$#0!8733(R(=(+#3!&3!

O!'&/#!A-#!=#&8!7$>#!&6&($!A7!&$7A-#*!$#0!>74$A*D9

Y2@#%',<2$,6%+6%2%M#<% Z#2:2=,% &'(% <+70% 92$G A8*:2$%+=7#$#676%+=%H*6+8% 2=,%2$7%?$1H%2$1*=,%70#% <1$:,4%2=,%#=@+$1=H#=G 72:%68+#=8#;%P+>0:+>076%1?% [D+=2<2% 02@#% +=8:*,#,% #N9:1$+=>% 70#% F*=>:#6% 1?% B$+1H17#4% 6<+HH+=>% <+70% 6#2% 7*$7:#6% 1=% Z2G H2H+4%@1:*=7##$+=>%<+70% 70#% [D+=2<2% '=@+$1=G H#=7%T:*I4%2=,%7#280+=>% M202% \1D*62+% 67*,#=76% 71% 9#$?1$H% 2% 02D2;% P+6% =#N7%,#6A=2A1=%+6%/#67G #$=% !*67$2:+24% <0#$#%

0#% 2+H6% 71% <1$D% +=% #81:1>+82:% $#671$2A1=; T3=70+2% T119% +6% 2% &'(% 2:*H=+% ?$1H% M#<% Z#2G :2=,4% <01% 69#=7% 70$##% 3#2$6% +=% \2>2<2% ]$#G ?#87*$#4% E0+D1D*;% E0#% :#2$=#,% 71% 9:23% 70#% 602D*0280+% 70#$#4% 2=,% 2:61% #=F136% +D#I2=2% 2=,% 601,1;% E0#% +6% =1<% +=% /#67#$=% !*67$2:+2% <1$D+=>% 26% 2% H2$D#7G +=>% >*$*% 2=,% #H#$>G +=>% 2$A674% 2=,% +6% 7$2+=G +=>% 71% I#% 2% 81*=6#::1$;

10

bird spotting

around Okinawa ,X'BFK'aQbTK

..

i see you.

Okinawa has many things to do &$@! R#&4+<4=! 8=&>#3! A7! 3##! R4A! lately my eye has been ever more drawn to the birds of Okinawa. My photographic skills are amateur &A! R#3AC! R4A! (A! (3! &! <4$! >-&==#$6#!

A7!A*D!&$@!>&8A4*#!A-#!B&*(743!QD‐ ing animals around us. Since Oki‐ $&0&! =&>/3! &! =7A! 7<! =&*6#! $&+B#! &$('&=3C!A-#!R(*@3!&=37!7E#*!37'#! uniquely Okinawan experiences.

Here are a few of the birds OMB#! R##$! &R=#! A7! >&8A4*#! =#&8‐ ing around Okinawan islands. i74M==! &=37! 3##! 38&**703C! >*703C! 70=3C! &$@! &==! /($@3! 7<! 7A-#*!

R(*@39! P77@! =4>/! 7$! A-#! -4$AZ

S#=F2H+=% Q2$A=% +6% 2% ?1*$70% 3#2$% !^(% 8*$$#=7:3% 1=% \*H#G F+H2;% % P+6% =1@#:% E2H*$2+% !<2DG #=+=>% <+::% I#% 9*I:+60#,% I3% (*_:#% ]*I:+60+=>% 1=% [87% `a;% 0_9bcc F+76*>#=62H*$2+;81H% % P#% 2:61% $*=6% 70#% I:1>% Q1$#% (0+=>6% &292G =#6#% 1=% T*:7*$#4% M#<6% 2=,% K11,;% 0779bccH1$#70+=>6F292=#6#;81H

!"#$%&

:-(A#!#D#@C!6*##$!R(*@!7;#$!387^#@!($!>-#**D!A*##3!0-#$!A-#D!R=77'9!L4'#%('&

'"()*+,-./+, %012,345678 ,-#!<#'&=#!(3!6*&D!&$@!3##'3!A7!#$%7D!#&+$6! worms from my garden. Kumejima.

()*+,-./+, %012,345678 The male of the species is blue and reddish brown.

Kumejima.

(9:;95$<,=612 O'87*A#@!@4>/3!A-&A!=(B#!($!GD4A&$!87$@!74A3(@#!7<!H-4*(!e&3A=#9!./($&0&9

12

D$#E T!8-#&3&$AY=(/#!R(*@!A-&A!#$%7D3!*4$$($6!A-*746-!346&*!>&$#!?#=@39!L(A&@&(A7

>?@(?< AB95%?C

%F0GH"I

JK9:L, MNL

.LC!37!$7A!&!R(*@C!R4A!A-#!P(&$A!"&A3!&*#!3+==!('8*#33(B#!QD($6!>*#&A4*#39!L(A&@&(A79

13

>RQ*+,OJPOL T!$7*'&==D!0-(A#!R(*@!3=(6-A=D!3'&==#*!A-&$!A-#!O$A#*'#@(&A#!26*#A9!OA!6&($3!&!R*70$(3-!R=43-!@4*($6!'&+$6!3#&‐ 37$9!e&^=#!26*#A!=(/#!A7!<7==70!<&*'#*3C!8(>/($6!($3#>A3!&$@!07*'3!74A!7<!<*#3-=D!>-4*$#@!#&*A-9!L4'#%('&9

.EQ*+,OJPOL An elegant white bird with a black beak and legs.

OA!(3!7;#$!<74$@!($!3'&==!877=3!&$@!=(/#3!A7!?3-9!

Kitadaito.

$:H"5!O=KNH+, OJPOL H'&==#*!A-&$!A-#!6*#&AC!(A!-&3!&!'7*#!*74$@#@!-#&@C! '4=+Y>7=7*#@!R#&/!F@4*($6!'&+$6!3#&37$IC!&$@! wispy plumes. Kitadaito.

JPONL,OJPOL T!AD8#!7<!-#*7$!A-&A!(3!&==!0-(A#!0(A-!&!D#==70!R(==!&$@!R=&>/!=#639!OA!-&3!D#==70!#D#3!&$@!A-#!R(==!A&8#*3!($A7!(A3! head. Kitadaito.

14

purikura

,X'c!L6Q' ad9e[f!K

O!38#$A!'D!# &*=D!jkM3!&3!& $!./(12,9!O!& port at 10:3 **(B#@!&A!m& 0 on a humid -&!O$A#*$&+ December $&A#3IC!jp!D 7$&=!T(*‐ n ight (shout #&*3!7=@!&$ o ut to my oth @ !>7'8=#A#=D ?*3A! <#0!0# er alter‐ !<2D2$+H26 #/3!0#*#!& #=‐ing Japa !R=4*U&!>7 R=4*9!T>A4&== n e $<43($6C! &$ se. The DC! A7!R#!<&(* [(#ADY($@4> C! A-#!=&3A! <# >7$<43($6C! ($6C! 30#&AD 0!D#&*3!-&B %43A! &3! &$[ ! #!R##$!&!R=4 (#ADY($@4>($ m70C!O!&'!A4 *! F%43A! &3!

6C! &$@! @#? *$($6!jrC!-# $(A#=D! %43A! &@($6!R&>/!A A4*#!O!=#;!R &3! 30#&ADI9 7!e&$&@&!A7 #-($@C!&$@!* ! !<2D2$+H26 #A4*$($6!A7 #= the cul‐ !3>-77=!A7!R #>7'#!T!G# O!0&$A!A7!3& &=!,#&>-#*9!

D!37'#A-($ 6!'#&$($6<4 A-(3!#[8#*(# =!&R74A!-70 $>#!-&3!R## !($>*#@(R=D!< $W!-70#B#*C 3&$@!07*@3 7*'&+B#! !F&3!A-#D!3&D 9!OM'!8*#^D!3 I! & !8(>A4*#!3&D 4*#!&!9*$+D* sand. ]*$+D* 3!&!A-74‐ $2 picture s $2%R77A-3!ays at least &B#!R##$!&!> O! ?*3A! 3A#88 tw o thou‐ 7$3A&$A!($!' #@!($A7!7$# D!1&8&$#3#!= !FJ#>#'R# >707*/#*3!> (< *! # jn*@C! jkks C!3($>#!

-&$ I9!HA4@#$A3 but 9*$+D*$2 6#!3>-77=3C!#B#*D!T46 !6*&@4&A#C! 43A!&!$#0!R %(3!&=0&D3!A&A>-!7<!T`,3 #*#9!OMB#!>-& 3A#88#@!7E !&**(B#g! $6#@!&!=7A!3 !A-&A!8=&$#!F ($ ' >#!A-&A!jpYD D!-&(*C!'D!=# 78($(7$3!&R # 337$!8=&$3C! 74A!T'#*(> 'D!>-7(>#!($ &*Y7=@! &$3IC!R4A!OMB !' #!$#B#*!3A7 #$C!'D! 88#@!=7B($6 Thank you !8 *( $ A! to all the >=4R9! people w $2! R77A-! 0 ho have s (A-! '#W! D7 tepp 4! '&@#! ' D! #&*=D! jkM3 ed into a 9*$+D*G ! &'() *+!!.

チーズ, Sarra！

E2$$2% Q8Q+::2=% +6% 2% d$,W+60X% 3#2$% !^(% 27% 2% 0+>0G:#@#:% 282,#H+8% 0+>0% 68011:% +=% M202;% /0#=% 60#56% =17% 9:23+=>% 7#280#$4% 60#% +6% 72D+=>% 9*$+D*$2% W8:#2$:3X4% :+=#G,2=8G +=>4% e=,+=>% 2::% 70#% 2::G31*G82=G#27% $#672*$2=76% 60#% 82=4% 2=,% $2=A=>% 2I1*7% 018DG #3;% !*>*67% <+::% e=,% 0#$% +=% f2=81*@#$4% #2A=>% $2H#=% 2=,% 67*,3+=>% ',*82A1=;

16

takarazuka revue

a play review

17

resurrection

,X'?#$@ABCDE'4FGHFI

O$!A-#!H8*($6!(334#!7<!A-#!GD4/D4!HA&*C!O!0*7A#!&$!($A*7‐ @4>A7*D!&*+>=#!&R74A!A-#!,&/&*&X4/&!G#B4#C!A-#!8*#'(#*! &==Y<#'&=#!1&8&$#3#!*#B4#!>7'8&$DW!3##!(A!<7*!@#A&(=3!7$!

A-#!>7'8&$DC!?B#!A*748#3C!&>A*#33#3!&$@!8=&D!3>-#@4=#9

($A7!8*73+A4+7$!&$@!%&(=#@9!:*&>/#@!0(A-!64(=AC!J'(A*(! tries to save her from prison...but the moment he sets -('3#=<!48!&6&($3A!A-#!870#*<4=!<7*>#3!-#M@!3#*B#@C!-#! =73#3! -(3! 8=&>#! ($! A-#! #=(A#! 37>(#AD! A-&A! @#?$#@! -('9!

Most Takarazuka shows are split into two acts: an hour‐ &$@Y&Y-&=<!=7$6!'43(>&=!8=&DC!<7==70#@!RD!&$!-74*Y=7$6! *#B4#!3-709!F,7!B(34&=(X#C!A-($/!R(6d!6=(^#*($6!3#A3!&$@! huge musical numbers performed by dozens of girls in lavish costumes). Flower Troupe’s latest is in this formu‐ =&C!0(A-!&!8=&D!>&==#@!\G#34**#>+7$]C!37!$&'#@!R#>&43#!

(AM3!R&3#@!7$!`#7!,7=3A7DM3!$7B#=!G#34**#>+7$C!&$@!&!*#‐ B4#!>&==#@!\e&$7$Z]C!37!$&'#@!R#>&43#!(A!374$@3!>77=9

G#34**#>+7$! 07*/#@! 7$! &==! =#B#=3! &3! &! 8=&D! *&A-#*!

A-&$! %43A! &3! &! $7B#=! &@&8A&+7$W! A-&A! (3C! (A! A77/! 7$! &! =(<#! 7<! (A3! 70$9! ,-#! 3A7*D! Q70#@C! A-#! &>+$6! 0&3!

677@C! &$@! A-#! '43(>! 0&3! R#&4+<4=C! #38#>(&==D! A-#! '&($! A-#'#! 0-(>-! <#&A4*#@! &! A-($C! -&4$+$6! *#‐ <*&($9!OA!@(@$MA!&=0&D3!'&A>-!48!A7!A-#!$7B#=!&$@!*7‐ '&$+>(X#@! &! =7A! 7<! A-($63! Y! 8&*+>4=&*=D! J'(A*(C! 0-7C! *&A-#*! A-&$! &! 387(=#@C! #$+A=#@! &*(3A7>*&A! R#>&'#! &! *7'&$>#! $7B#=! \8#*<#>A! '&$]! <7==70($6! L&AD43-&!

0(A-! @#B7+7$! Y! R4A! A-#! A-#'#3! 0#*#! *#A&($#@! &$@! well presented in a way that suited musical theater.

,-#!?*3A!34*8*(3#@!'#9!,7=3A7DM3!$7B#=!(3!&!$(6-A'&*‐ ish trek through a Siberian prison featuring scenes of children buried in dung piles and innocent men con‐ B(>A#@! A7! <*##X#C! 4$?V$6! 7<! ,&/&*&X4/&M3! 6=&'7*743! ('&6#9! O! 0&3! =#33! 34*8*(3#@! A7! 3##! -70! ,&/&*&X4/&!

-&$@=#@!(Ad!A-*70!74A!&==!A-&A!\6*733]!3A4E!&$@!6#A!A7!

A-#! *7'&$>#Z! :-(=#! &! A-($! #[>43#! <7*! A-#! 8*(37$! #[‐ >4*3(7$! ($! A-#! $7B#=C! A-#! =7B#! 7<! $7R=#'&$! &$@! 37=‐ dier Dmitri (played by Flower Troupe’s star male ac‐ tress Ranju Tomu) and his maid Katyusha (star female actress Ranno Hana) took precedence here. Occa‐ 3(7$&==DC! &! *#B7=4+7$&*D! 074=@! *4$! &>*733! A-#! 3A&6#! in a less‐extravagant costume to remind the audi‐ #$>#! A-&A! 37'#! 8#78=#! 0#*#! 877*! &$@! 788*#33#@W! then Dmitri would make eyes at Katyusha again.

H+==C!A-#!3A7*D!7<!G433(&$!67B#*$'#$A!>7**48+7$!(3!A7=@!

A-*746-!L&AD43-&9!H-#!R#6($3!&3!J'(A*(M3!=7B#*C!R4A!&3! &$!&*(3A7>*&A!-#M3!<*##!A7!A-*70!-#*!&0&DC!&$@!(AM3!3-#!

0-7M3!?*#@!<7*!8*7'(3>4(ADC!=#&@($6!A7!-#*!R#($6!<7*>#@!

e&$7$ZC! A-#! *#B4#C! (3! '7*#! @(_>4=A! A7! #[8=&($9! G#‐ B4#! >74=@! R#3A! R#! @#3>*(R#@! &3! \38#>A&>=#]C! &==! &R74A! ?$@($6! A-#! 38&*/=(#3A! >73A4'#3! &$@! A-#! loudest music and the most eye‐popping sets and dances. Think opera. Think melodrama. Think Ve‐ gas raised by wolves on acid and bred with anime.

O<!D74!3##!A77!'&$D!($!&!*70!A-#D!R=4*!A76#A-#*C!R4A!7$#! every once in a while is fresh and fun. Flower Troupe >4**#$A=D!=&>/3!&$D!R(6!8#*37$&=(+#3C!&$@!($3A#&@!<4$>‐ +7$3! R#3A! &3! &! R=#$@#@! 0-7=#9! e&$7$Z! 07*/#@! 0(A-!

A-&AC!6(B($6!&!3#*(#3!7<!54(>/C!Q&3-D!3>#$#3!0(A-!&!=7A! 7<! &>A*#33#3! >*#&+$6! <&$A&3+>! 7B#*&==! ('8*#33(7$39!

H#*(743!87=(+>&=!@*&'&!R&=&$>#@!RD!&$!-74*!7<!>&A>-DC! #$#*6#+>! '43(>&=! $4'R#*39! ,-(3! 7$#! 6#A3! &$! T9

!%<$+7#$%0#$6#:?%W*$I2=%?2=7263%Y#H1=%1?%R#=2+662=8#% Y$+@#4%0#$%e$67%=1@#:4%+6%1*7%26%1?%M1@#HI#$%ga``X4%':+hG 2I#70%+6%2%I+>%?2=%1?%671$37#::+=>%+=%+76%@2$+#,%?1$H6%2=,% 026%:+D#,%(2D2$2h*D2%?1$%2I1*7%2%,#82,#%=1<4%<0+80% H2D#6%0#$%?##:%,#9$#66+=>:3%1:,4%61%,1=57%H#=A1=%+7;

18

malaysia ,X'ghDiLjK'cV67Uk

3S+,N=T":UVP+ TA!t!&9'9!A-#!37;!R4XX!7<!'D!<&$!&R*48A=D!3A7839!T! <#0!'($4A#3!=&A#*C!O!3A&*A!A7!3+*!<*7'!A-#!788*#3‐ 3(B#! R=&$/#A! 7<! -7A! 30&'8D! &(*! A-&AM3! 3#^=($6! ($!

'D!*77'9!O!30&A!(@=D!&A!&!'7354(A7!R4XX($6!&R7B#! '#C!$7A!>&*($6!A-&A!O!'(339!T;#*!R#($6!@#B74*#@!

'D!?*3A!$(6-AC!O!$70!3=##8!0(A-!&!=(R#*&=!>7&+$6!7<! pkku!J##A!7$!&==!8&*A3!7<!'D!R7@D9!O!6*&R!&!*&$@7'!

R(/($(!A78!&$@!R7^7'!<*7'!A-#!=($#C!A-*70!A-#'!

7$C!&$@!OM'!@*#33#@!<7*!A-#!@&D9!O$!A-#!R&A-*77'!

O!A4*$!7$!A-#!A&8!&$@!R*43-!'D!A##A-C!A-#!0&A#*!

38=&3-($6! 7$! A-#! Q77*! &$@! *4$$($6! @70$! ($A7! &!

-7=#!($!A-#!>7*$#*C!0-(>-!@*&($3!@(*#>A=D!($A7!A-#!

83#4@7Y=&/#v30&'8! R#=70! A-#! -73A#=9! ,-#! ?*3A! $(6-A! -#*#C! O! 3&0! &! A-*##Y<77A! =(X&*@! 30(''($6! &*74$@!($!(A9!H($>#!A-#$C!OMB#!>-#>/#@!>&*#<4==D!#B‐ #*D!+'#!O!>*733!A-#!*4$7E!3A*#&'!Q70($6!A7!A-#!

7>#&$9!O!*#&88=D!A-#!J##AC!6*&R!'D!34$3>*##$C!&$@! padlock the door behind me. The hardest deci‐ 3(7$!O!-&B#!A7!'&/#!&==!@&D!(3!0-&A!37*A!7<!*7+C!&! doughy pastry served with a chili sauce for break‐ <&3A! ($! )&=&D3(&C! O! 0&$A! A7! 7*@#*! <7*! R*#&/<&3A9! e7'($6! <*7'! ./($&0&C!(AM3!#&3D!A7!R#!=4*#@!($A7! skipping the island highlights of Southeast Asia.

T;#*!&==C!O!=(B#!7$!&$!(3=&$@!'D3#=<9!O<!O!0&$A!A7!67!A7!

R#&>-#3C!3-74=@$MA!O!%43A!67!A7!A-#!7$#!&!R=7>/!&0&D! <*7'!'D!&8&*A'#$Ah!J7!D74*3#=<!&!<&B7*!A-746-C! &$@!@7$MA!7B#*=77/!)&=&D3(&M3!N#*-#$+&$!O3=&$@39 T!<#0!@&D3!R#<7*#!A-(3C!O!-&@!R746-A!&!38##@R7&A! +>/#A!<7*!=#33!A-&$!jCkkk!D#$!&$@!nk!'($4A#3!=&A#*!

O!3A#88#@!7E!7$A7!7$#!7<!A-#!8#*<#>A!0-(A#!3&$@!

R#&>-#3! 7<! N#*-#$+&$! L#>(=9! ,-#! 3'&==#*! 7<! A-#!

A07!N#*-#$+&$!O3=&$@3C!(A!(3!&=37!A-#!>-#&8#*!7$#9!! "#3&*C! A-#! =&*6#*C! (3! 483>&=#C! 0(A-! @#=4[#! *#37*A3! popping up all around the coast. Kecil retains its underdeveloped backpacker’s charm and price tag. Most of the guesthouses don’t take reser‐ B&+7$3C! @7$MA! -&B#! &(*! >7$@(+7$($6C! &$@! 7$=D! generate electricity 12 hours a day. Wandering

A-#!R#&>-C!&3/($6!&*74$@C!O!#B#$A4&==D!<74$@!&! >-#&8! 78#$! *77'C! &$@! A77/! (A9! H4*#C! A-#! -73‐ A#=! >7$3(@#*#@! &! 3($/! &$! 4$$#>#33&*D! =4[4*DC! R4A!D74!6#A!0-&A!D74!8&D!<7*C!&$@!O!@(@$MA!8=&$!

A7! 38#$@! '4>-! +'#! -7=#@! 48! ($! 'D! *77'9!! ,-#! (3=&$@3! -&B#! 07*=@Y>=&33! @(B($6C! ($>=4@($6!

A07!0*#>/3C!7$#!&>>#33(R=#!A7!R#6($$#*3C!R4A!'D! A*&B#=($6! >7'8&$(7$! 0&3$MA! @(B#! >#*+?#@C! 37!

0#!<7*0#$A!A-73#!#[8#*(#$>#39!O$3A#&@C!7$!74*! ?*3A! <4==! @&DC! 0#! 0#$A! 3$7*/#=($6! 0(A-! &! 64(@#! whose enthusiasm more than made up for his limited English. He drove in no discernable pat‐ A#*$C! 3A788($6! &A! 3##'($6=D! *&$@7'! 8=&>#3C! &$@!@#'&$@#@!A-&A!0#!67!($C!A#==($6!43!A-($63! =(/#C!Ki74!0(==!3##!m#'7CM!F34*#!#$746-C!-#!-&@!

3A788#@! *(6-A!7B#*!&!B#*(A&R=#! ?#=@! 7<! &$#'7‐ $#C!#&>-!?==#@!0(A-!R*(6-A=D!>7=7*#@!>=70$!?3-!

30(''($6!R#A0##$!A-#(*!A#$A&>=#3I!&$@C!K"&RD! 1&039M! ! F)&'&! 1&03C! O! *&$! ($A7! A-#! $#[A! @&D9I \.4AZ! ! .c,Z]! -#! D#==#@! 7$#! +'#C! -&=+$6! A-#! boat instantly in the middle of the channel be‐ tween the two islands. Feeling like a SWAT team '#'R#*C!O!4$54#3+7$($6=D!%4'8#@!7B#*R7&*@9! a#!6#3A4*#@!&A!&!R(6!3-&@70!4$@#*0&A#*9!O!7R#‐ @(#$A=D!3A4>/!'D!-#&@!4$@#*0&A#*!&$@!O!<74$@! myself less than 5 meters from a giant sea turtle.

T3!-#!30&'!&0&DC!O!@7B#!@70$!@##8#*C!=70#*($6!

'D3#=<!A7!-(3!=#B#=9!O!0&A>-#@!-('!30('!7EC!<&@‐ ($6!($A7!A-#!A-(>/!R=4#!0&A#*C!R#<7*#!34*<&>($69!

"D!A-#!+'#!0#!*#A4*$#@!A7!@7>/C!'D!R&>/!0&3!

34$R4*$#@! ($! A-#! 3-&8#! 7<! ?$6#*+83C! &$@! A-#! *#@! 34>+7$! '&*/3! <*7'! 'D! '&3/! 07*#! @##8! tracks around my eyes. Exhausted and elat‐ #@C! 0#! A-&$/#@! 74*! 64(@#C! &$@! 0&=/#@! &! <#0! paces down the beach before sinking down into the white sand and closing our eyes.

20

A5)*+! 275$5B! P#V$6! A7! )&=&D3(&! (3! #&3D9! )73A! 12,3! 3-74=@$MA! $##@! &! B(3&9! P#V$6! A7!

A-#! N#*-#$+&$3! (3! &! R(A! A*(>/(#*9! f*7'! L4&=&! `4'84*C! D74! 3-74=@! A&/#! #(A-#*! &! A*&($! 7*! &! long distance bus (faster and cheaper) to Kota Bharu. You can catch these from the down‐ A70$! 3A&+7$C! 0-#*#! A-#! &(*87*A! >7''4A#*!

3A7839!f*7'!L7A&!"-&*4C!(AM3!#&3D!A7!&**&$6#!&! *(@#!B(&!&!3-&*#!A&[(!@70$!A7!A-#!%#^D!($!L4&=&! "#34A9!,-#*#!&*#!@(*#>A!L4&=&!`4'84*!A7!L4&‐ =&!"#34A!R43#3!&3!0#==C!=#&B($6!&A!s!&9'9!&$@!s!

89'9!<*7'!N4A*&!,*&($!HA&+7$9!f*7'!A-#!%#^DC! you take a 30 minute speed boat to the islands.

A5)*+! :$(-*%B! O$! )&=&D3(&! ($! 6#$#*‐ &=C! R43#3! &*#! &! R#^#*! R#A! A-&$! A*&($3C! &=‐ though there is a train running from the $7*A-! A7! A-#! 374A-C! 0-(>-! (3! 43#<4=! <7*! 6#A‐ +$6! ($A7! ,-&(=&$@! 7*! H($6&87*#9! .$! A-#! (3‐ =&$@3C! D74! >&$! 0&=/! #B#*D0-#*#C! 7*! A&/#! a taxi boat if you’re changing islands.

1$#85B! TA! A-#! +'#! 7<! 0*(+$6C! pCkkk! D#$! was buying about 38 ringgit. A typical night at a guesthouse would be 30 ringgit for a 8*(B&A#! *77'9! T! R7^=#! 7<! 0&A#*! >74=@! R#! bought for 1 ringgit from a vending machine. :88(@@(%,C(*;B! Guesthouses and hostels &*#!&'8=#C!R4A!54&=(AD!B&*(#3!(''#$3#=D!<*7'! =7>&+7$!A7!=7>&+7$C!&$@!(AM3!07*A-!'&/($6!&! *#3#*B&+7$!(<!D74!0&$A!A7!64&*&$A##!&!>#*A&($!

3A&$@&*@9!,-&A!R#($6!3&(@C!7$!A-#!N#*-#$+&$3C! A-#!7$=D!8=&>#3!&>>#8+$6!*#3#*B&+7$3!A#$@!A7! be the resorts. You’ll have to try your luck un‐ less you want to spend over 100 ringgit a night.

RS s fierce edit

21

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22

The Secret Adventures of

Rekio the Lion

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part seven: the lion city G#/(7! A-#! `(7$! (3! &$! &0#37'#! =(^=#! OA&=(&$! H-(3&! m($%&! <*7'! a7$6! L7$6Z! a#M3! 7$! &$! #8(>! '(33(7$! A7! ?$@! -(3! =7$6! =73A! <&'(=D! 7$! A-#! <&*YQ4$6! A*78(>&=! (3=&$@3! 7<! ./($&0&9 OAM3! R##$! $#&*=D! A07! D#&*3! 3($>#! 74*! -#*7! ?*3A! >&'#! A7! A-#! (3=&$@! ($! 3#&*>-!

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23

G#/(7! =#&*$3! 7<! &$! #$+AD! >&==#@! A-#! 2@(A7*C! 0-7! -&3! A-#! 870#*!

A7! >-&$6#! A-#! 0&D! A-($63! &*#! 0*(^#$9! a#! 3#&*>-#3! <7*! A-#! 'D3‐ A#*(743! R#($6! ($! A-#! 374A-#*$! '#A*787=(3! 7<! i7$&R&*4C! 0-#*#! he meets the Eroded‐Face Shisa. Through the Shisa’s garbled -&=<Y'74A-C! -#! -#&*3! 37'#A-($6! &R74A! (A! >-&$6($6! ($A7! &$‐ 7A-#*! 8#*37$C! 7*! '7B($6! &0&DC! 7*! R7A-9! ,-(3! (3! A77! >7$<43($6Z

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Tiger. Though Shisa and Tigers don’t always 6#A!&=7$6C!A-#!+6#*!A#==3!-('!A-&A!A-#!8&A*7$3! of a secret lion‐only café might be able to help.

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24

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0&3!&=37!64(@#@!RD!A-#!`(7$!HA&(*!H-(3&!A7!-#*!@*#&'!%7R!7<!=(6-A‐ ing the way for her ever‐lost master and helping those in need.

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-#*7!(3!?==#@!0(A-!$#0!(@#&3!&$@!(3!$7!=7$6#*!8&D($6!&^#$+7$9

Rekio arrives in Hong Kong and hits the ground hopping.

G(6-A! &0&DC! -#! 8($87($A3! A-#! 374B#$(*! 7*8-&$&6#! A-&A! -(3! master said he was adopted from. His heart sinks as he ?$@3!A-&A!A-#*#!&*#!$7!H-(3&!A-#*#!&$D'7*#9!a#!A*(#3!37'#!

8=&>#3! 74A3(@#! A-#! &(*87*AC! R4A! A-#*#M*#! <76Y>=74@3! #B#*D‐ where and mean Shisa like the Googly‐Eyed‐Monastery H-(3&9!.4*!-#*7!6#A3!R&>/!7$!&$!&(*8=&$#!&3!<&3A!&3!-#!>&$Z

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A-&A!(AM3!R#D7$@!07*@3Z!,-#!&$‐ >(#$A! )#*=(7$! A#==3! G#/(7! A-&AC! although it cannot help in the =(^=#! =(7$M3! 54#3AC! -(3! 8&*#$A3! were once great heroes who protected all the Shisa of Hong Kong. He suddenly hears the words of the Shisa Muses as the Merlion tells him that he too could be a hero among Shisa.

Rekio knows what he must do.

26

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27

GI YCKI

GI YCKI

I

ANGI 沖 BRZYCKI 縄

leaping into a new adventure I

ANGI 沖 BRZYCKI 縄

artistic takingangi leap! the

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0(A-!O$3A&6*&'9!O!0&$A#@!A7!?$@!74A!<*7'!&!=7$6Y standing photographer if he thought 'keitai' im‐ &6#3! 0#*#! =#6(+'&A#9! L(A&%('&! 0&3! @*&0$! A7! the photographs and told me to only print my photos 3x3 in size. He told me that they were '7*#! ($A#*#3+$6! A-&A! 0&D9! TA! ?*3A! O! A77/! 7<‐ <#$3#C!R4A!*#&=(X#@!(A!0&3!&!>7$?*'&+7$!A7!3A&*A! &!8-7A7!8*7%#>A!0(A-!(N-7$#vO$3A&6*&'!8-7A739 )7$A-3!=&A#*C!&!<*(#$@!7<!'($#!($A*7@4>#@!'#!A7!

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30

for the newbies

leap into a new home ,X'01'3!2g&

:-#$! D74! ?*3A! 6#A! &>54&($A#@! 0(A-! D74*! $#0! 1&8&$#3#! -7'#C! D74! <##=! -&8‐ 8DU#=&A#@C! #B#$9! "4A! &3! D74! 6#A! 3#^=#@! ($C! A-#! <##=($6! R#6($3! A7! 0&$#C! &$@! D74M*#! =#;! =77/($6! &A! &$! &8&*A'#$A! A-&A! =&>/3! D74*! 8#*37$&=(AD9! ,-#!434&=!54#3+7$3!>7'#!48d!O!>&$MA!84A!-7=#3!($A7!A-#!0&==h!:(==!J&(37!&@-#3(B#3!R#!

7/h!T$@!-70!A-#!-#>/!@7!O!3A7*#!&==!A-(3!3A4Eh!,-&$/<4==DC!A-#*#!&*#!&!<#0!A-($63!D74!>&$! get that will help turn your Japanese home into a comfortable sanctuary with style.

X)YZ,[\O;]

One of the biggest problems people run into ‐ whether (AM3!($!1&8&$!7*!&$7A-#*!>74$A*D!Y!(3!*#$+$6!&!8=&>#!A-&A! @7#3$MA! &==70! -7=#3! ($! A-#! 0&==39! O<! D74! -&B#! &$! 7=@#*!

8=&>#! 0(A-! 077@#$! 0&==3C! &! -7=#! ($! A-#! 0&==! >&$MA! R#! covered with some white paint. Command adhesives &*#! &$! &=A#*$&+B#! A7! $&(=3C! @#873(AY34>/($6! -7=#3C! &$@! wall‐peeling Daiso hooks. They come in two pieces: a A07Y3(@#@!&@-#3(B#!A-&A!R7$@3!A7!A-#!0&==!&$@!&!8=&3+>!

-77/9! ,-#D! >7'#! ($! @(E#*#$A! 3(X#3! &$@! 3+>/! <7*! &! =7$6! +'#9!,-#3#!&@-#3(B#3!>&$!/##8!D74*!8(>A4*#3C!8&($+$63C! &$@! R4==#+$! R7&*@3! 7$! D74*! 0&==! 3&<#=D9! 143A! '&/#! 34*#!

A7! >=#&$! A-#! 34*<&>#! ?*3A! R#<7*#! 43($6! A-#3#! &@-#3(B#39 D75$5!

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E-FB! e&($XC! )#(/4'&$ :6(#%B! Daiso hooks that look similar to Command ad‐ hesives and tapes since they remove wall facades.

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D74M*#!R#^#*!7E!3>*&88($6!(A9!T$!&==Y($Y7$#!<4*$(A4*#!

(A#'! -&3! '7*#! A-&$! 7$#! <4$>+7$! ($! A-#! -7'#9! f7*! ($3A&$>#C! &! R77/3-#=<! A-&A! >&$! @74R=#! &3! &! ,o! 3A&$@! will stretch your yen and simplify the space in your -7'#9!f7*!3'&==#*!38&>#3C!43($6!3('8=#!($A#*(7*!@#3(6$! secrets—like using a transparent or glass‐top table as a desk and dinner table instead of a bulky wood‐ en desk—can nearly double space in your home.

D75$5!

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E-FB! ./($&0&D&*@3&=#39>7'C! e&($XC! m(A7C! )#(/4'&$C! &$D! *#>D>=#! 3-78

33

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Are you an expert or enthusiast of anything?

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