WFM 39 Paris/New York SS2012 Lite

Page 1

2011 No. 39 EURO !18.00 Italy only

AUD $28.00 (INC. GST)

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ITALY !18.00

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2012 Spring / Summer

PARIS NEW YORK

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Champagne BOLLINGER Bollinger Presents ‘Life can be perfect’ Bollinger is one of the last remaining independent Champagne houses. B o l l i n g e r h a s c re a t e d t h e l u x u r y champagne segment in 1829 after its first launch in France. To celebrate 50th anniversary of Madame Bollinger’s quote and to promote the brand’s motto “Life can be perfectâ€?, Bollinger held the luxurious champagne party on October 17, 2011 at the hottest club in town – Tazmania Ballroom. ฝϏ ιؒŕ¨?c%ROOLQJHU ŕ —á“ Ď­ĘŒĘ‹ ಳ Ü° Ëž य़ પ ဳ ŕŹ‰ ‍ ؿ‏ʿ β á‹&#x; Í“ ຤ á?Şe ‍޾ ݯ‏ Ö¨0DGDPH %ROOLQJHUΊĚ?‍ ؿ‏՚ιcÔŽ ŕŠ€ “ /LIH FDQ EH SHUIHFW â€? ‍ۂؿ‏ಜ˚ᕀೕ๔ (from left) Mr. Gavin R. Jones,Division Director of Jebsen & Co. Ltd., Mr. Guy De Rivoire, Export Area Director of Bollinger & Mr. Donny Ho, General Manager of Jebsen Beverage Co.Ltd

ÍŽÉŁc%ROOLQJHUॄ‍ Ë‚ כ‏ˀৼ Éťá?ˇá†… á’¨7D]PDQLD %DOOURRPcá?žĎˇ/LIH FDQ EH SHUIHFWâ€Ťŕž§Ý˘â€ŹcᜑȹଠෲΡŕŻ…ŕĽ›ŕ —á“ â€ŤŘżâ€ŹÉ¤ÉĄá ¤ â€ŤŮƒâ€ŹÉŻcသੱ‍ۂ‏Ꭵ%ROOLQJHUŕ —á“ e

(from left) Mr. Kevin Chan, Miss Rabeea Yeung, Mr. Jason Chan & Miss Jasmin Chan

(from left) Mr Kevin Wu, Mr Donny Ho, Mr Kevin Chan

Champagne Special CuvĂŠe

Models were presenting A.D.M.J hand bags during the party

(from left) Mr. Guy De Rivoire, Miss Ankie Beike, Mr. Gilbert Yeung

Bollinger Special CuvĂŠe is the reference for the Bollinger style. It is the result of painstakingly blending three hundred different wines and ageing on the lees for at least three years to give a powerful, rich, distinctive Champagne. www.champagne-bollinger.com


Dsquared2 Dsquared 2

Christophe Guillarme

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Christophe Guillarme

CONTENTS !"#$%&'('&)*+) 04

AFVandervorst

06

Alexander McQueen

08

Andrew GN

10

Ann Demeulemeester

12

Atsuro Tayama

14

Balenciaga

16

Balmain

18

Barbara Bui

20

Cacharel

22

Celine

24

Chloe

26

Comme Des Garcons

28

Costume National

30

Christophe Guillarme

32

Damir Doma

34

Dior

36

Dries Van Noten

38

Emanuel Ungaro

40

Gaspard Yurkievich

42

Givenchy

44

Guy Laroche

46

Hermes

48

Jean Paul Gaultier

50

John Galliano

52

Junya Watanabe

54

Kenzo

56

Lanvin

58

Leonard

60

Lie Sang Bong

62

Loewe

64

Louis Vuitton

66

Maison Martin Margiela

68

Miu Miu

70

Moon Young Hee

72

Nina Ricci

74

Rick Owens

76

Rochas

78

Ruedu Mail

80

Stella McCartney

82

Talbot Runhof

84

Valentino

86

Viktor & Rolf

88

Vivienne Westwood

90

Yoji Yamamoto

92

Yves Saint Laurent

,-.&/0#1&'('&)*+) 94

31Philip Lim

96

Alex Herchcovitch

98

Alexander Wang

100

Altuzarra

102

Anna Sui

104

BCBG

106

Betsey Jonhson

108

Calvin Klein

110

Custo Barcelona

112

Cynthia Rowley

114

Derek Lam

116

DKNY

118

Donna Karan

120

DVF

122

Jason Wu

124

Lacoste

126

Marc Jacobs

128

Oscar De La Renta

130

Peter Som

132

Ports1961

134

Ralph Lauren

136

Rebecca Taylor

138

;VTT` /PSĂ„NLY

140

Vera Wang

142

Y3

144

Zac Posen

146

Badgley Mischka

147

Carlos Miele

148

Bess

149

Carmen Marc Valvo

150

Charlotte Ronson

151

Christian Siriano

152

Doo Ri

153

Douglas Hannant

154

Cut 25

155

Emerson

156

Jen Kao

157

Jenny Packham

158

Jill Stuart

159

Marc Jacobs by Jacobs

WFM Fashion from the Runway S/S 2012


AF Vandevorst

Paris S/S 2012

Inspired by Kenyan warriors, An Vandevorst and Fillip Arickx sent out a collection in dark hues that simmered with subtle tribal references. Striking, feathered helmets were interspersed with chunky, mottled scarves and ornamental fringing that draped about the neck. Soldierly looks also abounded, with belted, army-green jackets, tasselled layers and majestic, military braiding that adorned silky dresses and structured, cropped vests. $Q 9DQGHYRUVW՗)LOOLS $ULFN[੣̛ٛԓኝɡ੡Է᜙෰cஉ߮ˮᘤф஫ໃ ࣩࢠ‫ؿ‬ดϳሁӡͶeፚ͌‫ؿ‬ϡˉ፾ଜၤ‫ؿࠇڴ‬ᔵϳ௼ɲ˞ʥฆΕ୑ɥɐ ‫ؿ‬໦ཚ‫ݚ‬ᘣ‫ܮޚ‬ιመe߶ɁѼോɖˈˈ‫ܰޑ‬c৖ȿҢ੓‫߶ؿ‬၆ϳіК՗ ‫ݚ‬ᘣᄙ˞̔cඐ৩‫߶ؿ‬ԑᇁᓱ‫ذ‬ɖ໦ᒨട೻ሔடϸ໣՗٦β೛߇ʶe

4 4


5


Alexander McQueen In true McQueen style, Sarah Burton staged a brilliant extravaganza that was as rich in texture as it was in drama. Veiled models paraded Z[YLHTSPULK Z\P[Z ^P[O Y\MÅLK hems and corset belts, trailing, black, lacy dresses and shiny, see-through sheaths etched with vine-like graphics. As the show progressed, so did the McQueen wildness, ^P[O Z^LLWPUN Y\MÅLK NV^UZ and fanciful, feathered creations in glimmering white and coral pink. 6DUDK %XUWRQ‫ֻو‬भ̳‫ؿ‬ 0F4XHHQࠓࣟcΕၦ̎ɐ੓ ԞཫᎻჱȹᅚሔ෰ᔔఒ‫ؿ‬၀੟ ଞผeᎼടࠍ॓‫ؿ‬ᅡऋԫࢄ ͐ȿ੓τᑗᖾɎᒻ‫ؿ‬ᓯ޸Ϲ ໦dҢຼຶ੓d੓τ٦ᖾ‫ؿ‬ ඣϳ࠳‫ٽ‬டϸ໣c˞ʥͿτ ᇛᙧ‫ر‬ၿԳ࣐྇d৐ᘚྔ͌ ‫ؿ‬஦഼၇Ӹϸe፭ട‫ٲ‬࿫‫ؿ‬ ૯Ƀcஉ߮࢑੓Ԟ࠳‫הٽ‬Δ ‫ؿ‬ᑗᖾᓤ‫ר‬՗੓τϡˉ‫ؿ‬թ ऋА‫ۂ‬cߗᒔߗଊ‫͉ؿ‬ϳ՗ ‫ݿ‬๢॑ϳ‫ࣂؿ‬໦˥0F4XHHQ ‫ؿ‬யֲ੡Է൬ȹүࢄଊe

6 6


7


Andrew Gn Working primarily with embossed fabrics, Andrew Gn created pieces that were at once sculpted and elegant. Crisp, white, boxy coats with three-quarter sleeves effused garden-party charm, while belted suits accentuated the feminine form. A romantic thread was woven through the collection, with delicate-lace bodices and draping, puffed sleeves, culminating in silk shifts and beautifully-beaded, ethereal bridal wear. Ⴔ‫ן‬Ꮯ˚߬ઔ͂Ꭶ٦ࠍࢿ௚Аˮ‫ܫ‬෍ѼɌ᎚ඏ‫ࣂؿ‬໦e੓τȼʗ୿‫ؿ‬૜ ณ͉ϳʿѼɣϸౙೕˮ༝්ผ‫ؿ‬ቤɈcϤҢ੓ࡨ໦ޯˮɤֲ‫ؿ‬ᄒఊӸ ҥe࣯࿾஑ޮ‫כ‬ኬ࠯ӡͶɾɻc˳‫ܢ‬੓τ၀ᆽ٦ᖾ‫ؿ‬၇Ӹॳϸ՗࠳‫ؿٽ‬ ጗጗୿cϤ೻ሔ‫ق‬೭βடϸ໣˞ʥ੓τ࿴‫ڋ‬ϻक‫ؿ‬ജᗫณ࡬‫ר‬໦ҡੀ஛ ࣯ͫ࿾ೕ౎Էรߎe 8 8


9


Ann Demeulemeester Adhering to her favoured, dark palette and gothic looks, Ann Demeulemeester sent out wild-haired models wearing slouchy hats to parade black, buttoned coats, wide cut pants and open, velvet jackets. Some light was shed on the darkness, with trailing, white skirts and draping, beige gowns, while exposed shoulders and sweeping, translucent tops infused a sensual allure. $QQ 'HPHXOHPHHVWHUਠ‫ܛ‬ԯ‫ڇ‬๻‫ؿ‬૯ϳϳሁ՗ࡐऋβ̔ᜮeΕԯࣂ໦ Ӟɐc፾ቡᔵඤdᎼട‫ۍ‬ᖾசఞ‫ؿ‬ᅡऋԫࢄ͐ȿ੓τख़κ‫ؿ‬ඣϳɣϸd ᄖၠጭ˞ʥʨᕖ೷඀ᖦіКe‫ה‬Δ͉ϳ೛໣՗࠳‫ؿٽ‬ϝϳᓤ‫ר‬Εȹː૯ ϳɾɻ‫ڈ‬੒‫ڋ‬ଡcϤ࠳‫הٽ‬Δ‫ؿ‬ᚉ٘˸஦‫ע‬ɐϸ‫ڬ‬ౙೕˮֲ෰႖ఫɈe 1010


11


Atsuro Tayama Atsuro Tayama presented a cool collection that resounded with VYPNPUHSP[` -SVYHS ISV\ZVU KYLZZLZ ^LYL YLKLÄULK ^P[O SLH[OLY IPIZ while classic trenches were reworked with fur collars and dazzling, tangerine, handkerchief hems. Asylum visions crept in, with white, nurse-like tunics, followed by belted, straight jackets and buckled bodices. Deftly countering these restrictive images, Tayama added SHUN\PK RUP[^LHY HUK Å\PK Z[YPWLK KYLZZLZ ̈́ɬ૔࣍੓ԞรԮዟ௚ֲ‫ؿ‬τ‫ێ‬ӡͶeᇠຶɤ߫Ε͊ࠎ௼৵ᚼμɎၤП ɺ΃cϤˉეஉ߮˞ʥ‫ؿ͌ݮ‬ኸϳʹ֔Ɏᒻ˥຤԰ࠓϸ๖ೕˮณዀe͉ ϳ‫ؿ‬ᙶɡຫ߫੓Ԟᔢ৑ঁ‫ؿ‬෰ᘨc፭‫܃‬ˮ௿‫ܰڬؿ‬Ң੓‫ق‬೭іК˞ʥκ ੓β၇Ӹॳϸë́ɬ૔࣍Εஉ߮ɻ˱Ƀ྿ᕥ‫ؿ‬ৌᓱϸ‫˞ذ‬ʥᘽ൫‫॔ૈؿ‬ டϸ໣c̝ќɻ՗ȿɐ߸‫ڔڡؿ‬Ѽോe 1212


13


Balenciaga The atmosphere at Balenciaga was charged with futuristic promise, as Nicolas Ghesquiere sent out innovate, spongy jackets as well as Samurai-styled dresses that were crafted from padded bodices in russet and A-line skirts in muted silver. A luxe, retro feel was imbued by tops cut from silky scarf prints and high-waisted pants, while scoop shorts cast from high-tech fabrics reaffirmed Balenciaga’s place in the future. ʱቭ˖ࡼ‫ࣂؿ‬໦Ӟ˨࿶ȿ̰Ԟ˚ຮࣩࢠc1LFRODV *KHVTXLHUH੓Ԟȿณ ዷ‫ࣵؿ‬၍іК˞ʥˀ̯‫؁‬ɡࠓࣟ‫ؿ‬டϸ໣cԯɻ‫˞ّܰ܃‬ඡᇱϳ‫˨ිؿ‬ ၇Ӹॳϸ՗ਊႺϳ‫ؿ‬$Υ໣ႇАϤιeС͂೻ሔ௼ɲ৸സϤι‫ؿ‬ɐϸၤ ঢ়ຶጭ˨࿶ȿਫജdన̀‫ؿ‬෰ᘨcϤС͂ঢ়ޫҌࠍࢿ৸സϤι‫ؿ‬෋ɟ೛ ጭʹωᆢցȿʱቭ˖ࡼΕ̰Ԟࣂ໦‫ؿވ‬ȹ࢐ɾΔe 1414


15


Balmain A chic collection of slim-line silhouettes overlaid with western references took to the runway at Balmain. New creative director, Olivier Rousteing, paired studded, patch-pocket shirts with printed jeans and skin-tight pants with super-cool, fringed jackets. Bustier tops, appliquéd jackets and metallic embroidery crept away from the frontier, while broad-buckled belts and cowboy boots continued the Wild West allure. Ε%DOPDLQ‫ؿ‬Њࢄ̎ɐcߛૈረྰ̔ࠍޮട‫ؿ‬Ϲβ‫ר‬໦˥ኬ࠯ӡͶ‫ڈ‬੒ Пᆽeณͨ௚෮ᐢဟ2OLYLHU 5RXVWHLQJੀ੓τཁোஉ߮՗໤Ȼɟ஁‫ؿ‬ᚼ ϸၤͿ٦˒ˠጭฆ৉঴ԞcϤ၇Ӹጭၤ൚τ‫ݚؿێ‬ᘣіК‫ޚ‬੡ऩྴe၇ Ӹɐϸdൎ٦іК՗‫ټ‬ᙔԶᓵ஢࿺૗ˮϹ஫঄ய߇ౡcϤᄖκ͊੓՗˒ ˠཏᘗᙩౙೕടӔயϹ஫ቤɈe 1616


17


Barbara Bui Barbara Bui presented sportswear-inspired pieces imbued with M\UR` ÄUPZOLZ ;YHJR WHU[Z JSVZL Ä[[PUN aPWWLYLK QHJRL[Z HUK YHJLY backs engendered a fresh, easy-to-wear look. Adding zest to these minimalist basics, Bui incorporated standout, leather-fringed jackets. White dresses with gossamer overlays lent the collection a dose of feminine fragility that was quickly countered by rigid, patchwork tops and deconstructed vests. %DUEDUD %XL˞༜৽‫ר‬໦‫ݯ‬᜙෰cઐˮ̊ᗘЎτ‫ؿێ‬உ߮e༜৽ጭdൎ Ӹ‫ּؿ‬ᗆіК՗‫߇߇܃‬੓໦஭੓Ԟ૜ณϤ‫ޮכמ‬ട‫ؿ‬෰ᘨe%XLΕӡͶ ɻ˱Ƀፚ͌͊ࠎ‫ݚ‬ᘣіКc‫ݯ‬஛Ԓรᓯ˚ຮ‫ؿ‬ਥ̯‫ר‬໦ᄈ૚‫ݠ‬Ɉe͉ϳ டϸ໣՗ಌ೻̔ࡨ‫ݯ‬໮ӡͶ੓Ԟȹ೻ܹ࢕ɾ޻cЎೝӸ‫ؿ‬ᔵϳɐϸ՗໬ ࿚˚ຮ‫߇ؿ‬ʶӾ஠ɻ՗ȿ஛ိ෰ᘨe 1818


19


Cacharel For their debut collection at Cacharel, Chinese designers Ling Liu and Dawei Sun sent out pared-down pieces with subtle, feminine charm. Simple shifts were cinched-in with bow details and whip-like ILS[Z ^OPSL [HUR [VWZ ^LYL V]LYSHPU ^P[O Å\[[LYPUN L[OLYLHS ÄUPZOLZ A sensual touch was infused by delving necklines and sheer panels, while richly-coloured, impressionist florals reinstated traditional Cacharel muliebrity. ɻਝஉ߮࢑ჳ࠾՗ࡸɣ‫ݯ‬Εԯ‫&ݯ‬DVKDUHOஉ߮‫࠯ࠖؿ‬ӡͶɻ੓ԞфၫϤ ˨࿶ɤֲቤɈ‫ؿ‬ᓯ޸‫ר‬໦eᓯ௰‫قؿ‬೭βடϸ໣ઔ͂Ңຶஉ߮cԎ৉˞ ᇥᇦ೶ୀ஫՗ᔼ‫͊ر‬੓cϤ၇Ӹ೛߇ʶၤᘽ൫Ϥജᗫ‫ࡨ̔ؿ‬ฆ৉ޮടe Гეஉ߮՗஦‫ע‬ᔵϳ̠ૈ‫ݯ‬໮ӡͶ؇Ƀȹ೻ֲ෰cϤᔿϳᒠ᜔‫Ϳؿ‬ോ‫ݢ‬ ٦˹࣐྇ࠇଊȿ&DFKDUHOඨ଻‫޻ܹؿ‬ऋሔe 2020


21


Celine Focussing on form and volume, Phoebe Philo crafted a structured collection of architectural pieces. Elongated jackets with large patch pockets and oversized, rounded sleeves were buttoned to the waist or drawn in by striking, broad-banded belts creating sublime, sculptured images. Tempering the strict, minimalist approach of previous seasons, Phoebe infused a romantic sensibility, with leather WSLH[Z IHZX\L [VWZ HUK WLWS\T ÄUPZOLZ 3KRHEH 3KLOR؇ࠇ̔ᜮ՗᛽ዶc၀ʶஉ߮ȿ‫ۺ‬ዾࠓࣟ‫ؿ‬٦βӡͶe৉τ ɣൎ஁՗൚ɣ෋୿ɥ‫ٽ࠳ؿ‬іКΕຶ஫˱ɐख़κֶّ˞ፚ͌‫ؿ‬ᄖɣ͊੓ Ңടc௚஥ˮ፯ཫঁ‫ؿ‬᎚޻Ѽോe‫ݯ‬ȿɻ՗‫ک‬డտᗲᔑ‫ؿ‬รᓯ˚ຮࠓ ࣟc3KRHEHઔ͂ȿ͊ᑗdʱ౜Кɐϸ՗໦ཚ೛໣உ߮c‫ݯ‬໮ӡͶ؇Ƀ ࣯࿾ੱᕤe 2222


23


Chloe In her new role as Chloe’s creative director, Clare Waight Keller paraded a stunning collection of charming, ultra-feminine pieces. Backs were laid bare in gorgeous, fluid dresses that radiated in stripes of fawn, pink and Persian green. High-necked suits were crafted from tantalizing, punch card fabrics, floral embroidery emblazoned loose-fit pants and shirts were overlain with sheer, plunging shifts. А‫&ݯ‬KORHณͨ௚෮ᐢဟc&ODUH :DLJKW .HOOHUࢄ͐ȿቤɈಲࠉdรԯ ᄒఊ‫ؿ‬ӡͶc˥Ɂ᛹ᅪeജᗫϤᘽ൫‫ؿ‬ᚉ߇டϸ໣Ϳτቘϳd॑޴ϳ ՗ؐ౜၆ϳૈ॔c᜔ͮ̒ࢂeঢ়ეϹ‫˞ר‬ᗘЍޮʬ˺ː‫ؿ‬၀ᆽࠍࢿႇ АϤιc٦˹Զᓵ໦ᒨടᄖᕌ‫ؿ‬ጭɥcϤᚼϸɐࠍࡨടรᑁ‫ؿ‬஦‫قע‬ ೭βடϸ໣e 2424


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Comme Des Garcons Having mastered the art of segueing drama into physical pieces, Rei Kawakubo staged a fashion spectacular that revolved around haunting, bride-like images. 18th century visions came to mind, as models wearing stylized, white wigs and moulded headpieces WHYHKLK M\SS ZRPY[LK KYLZZLZ ^P[O WYL[[` IV^Z HUK MLH[OLY` Ă…V\YPZOLZ Elongated sleeves and hoop-skirt overlays infused a sense of JVUZ[YHPU[ ^OPSL NYHMĂ„[P HKKLK HU LSLTLU[ VM NY\UNL É­É”â€ŤŢ Ú“â€Źŕą ŕą‹ČżÎ•ŕŹŠྡྷâ€Ť×¨â€ŹŕťŚÉťÖ?á™ŠáŽťáƒąŕ “ŕŁ&#x;‍ؿ‏ᖚ୺cÎ•á ŚĚŽÉ?ࢄÍ?ȿ˞ ඨ଻ณॏџŕľ‹â€ŤÝŻâ€Źŕ¤‹Ďłâ€Ť×¨Řżâ€ŹŕťŚe Ë–Ţľâ€ŤŘżâ€Źá‚ŠŕąĄŕŁşŕŹŠÎ•ພࣾcᅥऋԍ᎟ŕ´&#x;೥ βĘ?‍͉ؿ‏ϳৼብ՗Κ‍ێ‏á?žŕ˝šcࢄÍ?ȿ৉τ࿴‍ڋ‏ᇼᇌ೜՗ϥˉٌཚ‍ؿ‏ᄖ໣ ŕŽ&#x;ϸ໣eŕ łâ€Ťŕ­żŮ˝â€ŹÉĽŐ—⣰ŕŠ“໣߇ʜ๙ೕˎ޸Ңâ€ŤŘżâ€Źŕˇ°á˜¨cϤŕˇ?á‰Šá„ˆŕŤšČżŐ&#x;Ń‘ ฎ࿏‍ؿ‏Ę?༖e 2626


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Costume National Dressing a chic, contemporary woman, Ennio Capasa paraded streamlined silhouettes with feminine appeal. Adroit tailoring took to the runway with beautifully-crafted, double-breasted jackets and cuffed, centre-pleat pants. Bright bursts of summer cut through, with slashes of hot pink and rose-tinted spectacles, while strappy heels and matching clutches underscored the collection’s sophisticated allure. (QQLR &DSDVD‫ࣂݯ‬ֆଊˤɤֲࢄ͐ȿ˨࿶ᄒఊቤɈ‫ݚؿ‬ᇃ‫ێ‬ረྰe உ߮࢑‫ؿ‬ᄐᆃ৸സ‫ݯ‬Њࢄ̎੓Ԟȿ၀޻‫ؿ‬ᔶખκіК՗ɻʶᑗᆙᓺᖾ ጭeϤᆅई॑޴ϳધᇃ՗‫ع‬ပϳሁ‫ؿ‬ଡᗂ‫ݯ‬໮ӡͶ੓Ԟ৒৒ࡧˀ‫ڋ‬ ϳcϤᖎ੓ঢ়།቎՗ฆ৉‫ؿ‬ಲ੓͊˳ޯˮȿ໮ӡͶ‫ؿ‬ιᆃቤɈe

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Christophe Guillarme Staged at Balajo, Christophe Guillarme’s short, contour-hugging dresses competed for the limelight with sweeping goddess gowns. The designer worked with silky, scalloped edges, tulle overlays, beaded panels and intricate embroidery to craft a collection that brimmed with feminine details. By contrast, tougher images emerged with spiky epaulettes trimming shoulders and crystal-dusted T-shirts glamourising slashed jeans. Ε%DODMRէᐢผᐾϷ‫ؿ‬஛௿ೕЗผɐc&KULVWRSKH *XLOODUPH‫ؿ‬ൎӸ೛ட ϸ໣ၤ‫ݚ‬ᇃѼ‫ັؿ‬ᅳ‫߫ٽ‬ᘏ‫᜔جޚ‬eஉ߮࢑ઔ͂ȿӴಆѼ‫ؿ‬೻ሔᖾᇂd ᑁ॓ຫ߫dϻक̠ૈ՗ᇲᔵԶᓵc௚஥ˮ˨࿶ɤֲʝୀຝ‫ؿ‬ӡͶeၤɾ Ѽιᒠ‫ܰؿˈྦྷע‬cά‫ٽ‬Ѽ٘௃dˋౠཚ‫ۂ‬ᒨ၈‫ؿ‬7‫߫ܔ‬՗඀ɟ˒ˠጭ ޯᛷȿਠඕɺև‫ؿ‬Ѽോe 3030


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Damir Doma The starting point for Damir Doma’s latest collection was the weighty jewellery that was used as the grounding force for a flighty collection of ethereal fabrics. On the runway, collars of gold fanned across toga-styled dresses, while heavy, stone-set neckbands dramatized minimalist coats worn over fragile fabrics, trailing ensembles in yellow gold and structured collars that fell into beautiful, rich, cordovan folds. 'DPLU 'RPD‫ؿ‬௖ณӡͶ˞รԮͫ൴‫ؿ‬कᗸ඀௿c˞ϊሁ՗˞ജᗫࠍ ࢿႇι‫ؿ‬թऋӡͶc ΕЊࢄ̎ɐcᄖᕌ‫ؿࣟࠓ஀ٽ‬டϸ໣৉τඡ‫̨ټ‬ ஥Ϥι‫ؿ‬ეɥcϤ˞͏፾ႇι‫ؿ‬ეਜԚ੡รᓯɣϸรԮᎻჱʝc΃ࣂ ฆ৉ܹ՗ࠍࢿd‫ټ‬ඡϳ‫ٽ࠳ؿ‬டӸϸc˞ʥ੓τᒠ᜔ቤɈޫဍΛ̿ᑗ ᆙ‫ؿ‬٦βϸეe 3232


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Christian Dior As acting head of design, Bill Gaytten sent models along a glimmering runway to parade feminine silhouettes steeped in nostalgic charm. Amid the hourglass figures in dropped-waist dresses and gathered skirts, racier elements surfaced, with gripping leather paired with chiffon shirts and gleaming mosaics finishes. To underscore the collection’s retro appeal, dress coats and bold shades were paired with stylish, cloche hats. А‫ݯ‬ˤଉஉ߮ᐢဟc%LOO *D\WWHQ‫ݯ‬ᅡऋԫๅௐȿȹૈߗᒔߗଊ‫ؿ‬Њࢄ ̎cࢄ͐ȿรԮᕤᓿቤɈ‫ؿ‬ɤ໦А‫ۂ‬e৖ȿГຶடϸ໣՗̨ㅌ໣ֺ෍஥ ‫ؿ‬ќਅςᇃɾ̔cஉ߮࢑ҡੀൎӸ͊ࠎၤு॒ᚼϸ˞ʥᘚଡ‫ؿ‬৛ᑩКࠍ ཚฆ৉঴Ԟcеଊˮҡ˱႖Ɂ‫ؿ‬ʏॖe̊̔cϳሁɣᐺ‫ؿ‬ᓤ‫ר‬ɣϸၤࣂ ֆᒉѼఞ‫ޚ‬੡ऩྴcޯᛷȿ໮ӡͶ‫ؿ‬న̀ቤɈe 3434


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Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten experimented with patterns and proportion to create a stellar collection that reverberated with originality. Steering away from traditional fabrics, the designer crafted his own striking prints by splicing hand-coloured studies of nature with modern photographs of cityscapes. These prints were then wrought into varying shapes, from sharply-tailored shirts and shorts, to brilliant, asymmetrical dresses and billowing smocks. 'ULHV 9DQ 1RWHQྦྷΈိ࣐྇՗ˈԝ൬Ϸ໰᛻c௚஥ˮรԮࡈ௚ֲ‫ؿ‬ᘚ ଡӡͶeஉ߮࢑‫ૃׇ‬ȿඨ଻ࠍࢿcઔ͂ԯऋτ‫ؿ‬ፚ͌Ϳ٦cੀϬಳࠓࣟ ‫ʹؿ‬ᖒউ྇ၤଊˤࠓੱ‫ؿ‬๑ː‫ܙ‬અ঴Ԟeઅടஉ߮࢑ੀ஛ԒͿ٦̨஥ι ɺ΃Ѽ‫ر‬cੀԯ༜͂ԷรԯൎӸ‫ؿ‬ᚼϸ՗೛ጭdɺྦྷီ‫ؿ‬ജᗫடϸ໣˞ ʥ࣯ؐѼ‫ؿ‬ຫ߫ɾɻe 3636


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Fashion from the Runway

fashion from the runway

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