WFM 36 Milan/London Fall2011

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Sportmax

CONTENTS MILANO MODA DONNA 04

Aigner

06

Alberta Ferretti

08

Albino

10

Alviero Martini 1a Classe

12

Anteprima

14

Antonio Marras

16

Aquilano Rimondi

18

Blugirl

20

Blumarine

22

Bottega Veneta

24

Brioni

26

Byblos

28

Carta e Costura

29

C’N’C Costume National

30

Chicca Lualdi BeeQueen

31

Cristiano Burani

32

D&G

34

Dolce & Gabbana

38

Dsquared2

40

Emilio Pucci

42

Emporio Armani

44

Ermanno Scervino

46

Etro

92

Marni

134

Central Saint Martins

48

Fendi

94

Massimo Rebecchi

136

Mulberry

50

Francesca Liberator

96

Maurizio Pecoraro

138

Paul Smith

52

Francesco Scognamiglio

97

Marco De Vincenzo

140

Pringle of Scotland

54

Frankie Morello

98

MaxMara

142

Topshop Unique

56

Gabriele Colangelo

100

Mila Schon

144

Vivienne Westwood Red Label

58

Gaetano Navarra

102

Missoni

146

Amanda Wakeley

60

Gianfranco Ferre

104

Moschino

147

Acne

62

Giorgio Armani

106

Moschino Cheap & Chic

148

Alana Hale

64

Gucci

108

Numero 21

149

Antonio Berardi

66

Haute

110

Paola Frani

150

Caroline Charles

68

Iceberg

112

Prada

151

Christopher Kane

70

Jil Sander

114

Roberto Cavalli

152

House of Holland

72

Jo No Fui

116

Roccobarocco

153

ISSA

74

John Richmond

118

Salvatore Ferragamo

154

Jonathan Saunders

76

Just Cavalli

120

Silvio Betterelli

155

Julien Macdonald

78

Kristina Ti

122

Sportmax

156

Matthew Williamson

80

Krizia

124

Versace

157

Nicole Farhi

82

Laura Biagiotti

126

Versus

158

Orla Kiely

84

Les Copains

LONDON FASHION WEEK

159

Todd Lynn

86

Lorenzo Riva

128

Aquascutum

160

Temperley London

88

Love Sex Money

130

Betty Jackson

90

Luisa Beccaria

132

Burberry Prorsum

Fashion from the runway

Fall 2011-12


Milan FA L L

2011

Aigner Maintaining her reputation for classic cuts, for the coming Autumn/Winter, Etienne Aigner paraded elegant daywear. Silky shirts, elongated vests, slim-fit trousers and simple dresses took to the runway in camel, cream and wintry hues. Pieces in striking vermilion sent ripples of bright colour through the collection, while long leather gloves and wrappings of fur instilled a sense of timeless glamour. Etienne Aigner延續了她的經典剪裁風格,在今年秋冬季推出優雅日裝。 絲質襯衫、修長背心、薄而貼身的 長褲加上簡潔的連衣裙,為伸展台增添了一份駝色及奶油色的冬季色調。朱紅色的設計令整個系列泛起豔色 漣漪,而皮革長手套和皮毛外套帶出永恆的魅力。

4


5


Alberta Ferretti Sensual, romantic pieces with a strong 60s vibe defined Alberta Ferretti’s latest offering of shift dresses, silky prints and pared-down suits. Embellished, fluttering halter-necks and delicate gowns bolstered the collections feminine appeal, while bursts of colour and texture were injected with tinselly, cobalt blue dresses, shimmering, black pantsuits, orange-red overcoats and cool, over-the-knee boots in purple velvet. Alberta Ferretti最新推出的直筒連衣裙、絲質印花圖案以及簡約的西服均充滿著感性、浪漫的60年代風格。 用於點綴的靚麗露背設計加上精緻的禮服令該系列更顯嫵媚,設計師更將不同色彩及質地搭配起來,帶來以 金箔裝飾的鈷藍色連衣裙、閃閃發光的黑色褲套裝、橙紅色大衣,以及型格的紫色天鵝絨及膝靴子。

6


7


Albino Albino D’Amato’s latest collection was defined by bold cuts and gravelly autumnal shades interrupted by streaks of cerulean. Adroitly-tailored outerwear drew attention to the waist with broad, contrasting panels on overcoats and standout, fur trim on cropped jackets. The hard lines of the collection were beautifully tempered by dashes of colour on pretty, tactile tops, doublecollars on sheer shirts and fur finishes on split dresses. Albino D’Amato的最新系列採用大 膽剪裁,秋天色調的厚重陰影與天藍色 的條紋相互錯開。量身定做的外衣突顯 腰部線條,與大衣上的寬布條形成鮮明 對比,短夾克上則有顯眼的毛皮飾邊。 極具觸感的上衣印有彩色虛線,加上透 明襯衫的雙層衣領以及分叉禮服上的皮 毛裝飾,巧妙地中和了該系列的硬朗線 條。

8


9


Alviero Martini 1A Classe 1A Classe Alviero Martini presented sophisticated tailoring with a rebellious undertone. Wintry ensembles radiated in deep olive and cool skirts with kilt-like finishes were worn with matching overcoats. A retro feel was woven into the collection with fur-trimmed capes and antique-floral prints, while a renegade look emerged with fabulous, wild fringing that engulfed jacket sleeves, tops and swirling, seductive skirts. 1A Classe Alviero Martini推出融合反叛底色的成熟剪裁。深橄欖色的冬季連身衣非常奪目,蘇格蘭短裙式的 型格裙子與相襯的大衣相得益彰。 毛皮飾邊披肩與古老的花卉圖案為該系列帶來復古的感覺,而漂亮的狂野 流蘇包裹著夾克衣袖、上衣以及性感的捲曲裙子,透出一絲叛逆。

10


11


Anteprima Izumi Ogino created the image of a mysterious woman, as models with dark lips took to the runway in wintry hues. Knitted cardigans and dresses with netted inserts, draping jackets and trailing tops gave the collection a fluid look that radiated warmth. Sculpted sweaters and defined capes added structure, while the melange of brown and grey was disrupted by slices of glacial white and vivid flashes of electric blue. 塗著黑色唇膏、身穿冬天色調服裝的模特兒走上伸展台,展現出荻野泉所創造的神秘女性形象。 針織羊毛衫 及連衣裙搭配網狀墊片以及修長的夾克與上衣,為該系列帶來充滿暖意的流暢感覺。 造型毛衣及輪廓分明的 披肩令線條更加分明,而混雜起來的褐色與灰色被雪白色的片段以及電藍色的耀眼亮片分隔開來。

12


13


Antonio Marras Set to the stirring music of PJ Harvey’s ‘The Glorious Land’ and in direct contrast to its lyrics, Antonio Marras presented a feminine collection in honour of his mother, Nannina. Dark fabrics strewn with roses were crafted into long dresses and chiffony overlays, knits were drawn in with ribbon belts and soft pleats whirled in champagne dresses. Meanwhile, seamed stockings, corsages and vintage handbags reinforced the 40s vibe. 在PJ Harvey震撼人心的“The Glorious Land”音樂襯托下,Antonio Marras帶來與音樂旋律形成鮮明對比 的女裝系列,向其母親Nannina致敬。 以玫瑰圖案點綴的深色布料被製成長裙和薄紗外套,絲綢腰帶上的精 美針織以及香檳色連衣裙上的柔和皺褶更添魅力。此外,有縫襪、胸衣以及舊式手袋更加增添一份了40年代 的感覺。內衣及短小的花邊筒靴,造型獨特。

14


15


Aquilano Rimondi Aquilano and Rimondi sculpted pared-down pieces from heavily-treated materials. Overcoats were finished with contrasting fabrics, gilded bands and fur collars, while dresses were crafted from velvet fused to satin and shimmering, gold trim. Deconstructed houndstooth prints and square collars hinted at 60s style, while studded pieces in burnt sienna, periwinkle and glimmering pewter, conjured images of Medieval armour. Aquilano & Rimondi采用厚實材料剪裁出簡約的服裝。 大衣以對比鮮明的面料縫製,並配以鍍金鑲邊和毛 領,而天鵝絨製作的連衣裙則由綢緞及閃爍的黃金飾邊加以襯托。解構主義的犬牙印花及方形領口隱約帶出一 點60年代的風格,而燒土色的铆钉件以及長春花形狀的閃亮白蠟圖案則共同營造出中世紀盔甲的形象。

16


17


fashion from the runway

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