2012 No. 13 EURO !18.00 Italy only
AUD $28.00 (INC. GST)
HK $90.00
ITALY !18.00
RMB 짜140.00
USA $31.50
PHP $500.00
THB $620
SGD S$30.00
WON $22,000
TWD NT$420.00
RP $204,000
2012-13
Autumn/Winter
!"#$%"#&'$()*"&+&www.wfm.hk
MILAN PARIS
2012 No. 13 EURO !18.00 Italy only
AUD $28.00 (INC. GST)
HK $90.00
ITALY !18.00
RMB 짜140.00
USA $31.50
PHP $500.00
THB $620
SGD S$30.00
WON $22,000
TWD NT$420.00
RP $204,000
2012-13
Autumn/Winter
!"#$%"#&'$()*"&+&www.wfm.hk
MILAN PARIS
vii Emporio Armani
Bernhard Willhelm Autumn | Winter 2012-13
Dsquared2 Louis Vuitton
,\YVWL :VSL +PZ[YPI\[VYZ ( 0 , : 7 ( Via A. Manzoni, 12 20089 Rozzano, MI Tel: +39 02 575 3911 Fax: +39 02 5751 2606 email: info@aie-mag.com
0[HS` Messaggerie Internazionali S.P.A. Via A. Manzoni 8 - 20089 , Rozzano, MI Tel: +39 02 57512612 Fax: +39 02 5751 2656
Published by Enews-Asia.com Limited
:\IZJYPW[PVU +LW[ email: info@wfm.hk
Publisher Wilson Chau Tel: 852-3171 4788 e-mail: wilson@wfm.hk
Printed by Paramount Printing Co., Ltd. 3 Chung Kwong Street Tseung Kwan O’Ind. Estate Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2896 8688
USA AROUND THE WORLD, INC. 28 West, 40th Street, New York, NY 10018 Tel: (212) 575-8543 Fax: (212) 575-8552 www.aroundtheworldnyc.com
Australia SPEEDIMPEX AUSTRALIA PTY LTD Unit 3, 123 McEvoy Street, Alexandria, Sydney, NSW 2015 Tel. +61 2 9698 4922 Fax: +61 2 9698 7675 info@speedimpex.com.au
:PUNHWVYL 4HSH`ZPH Carkit (Far East) Pte Ltd. 3 New Industrial Road #04-02B/C Kimly Building (Off Paya Lebar Road) Singapore 537126 Tel: (65) 6282 8618 Fax: (65) 6282 7098 email: carkit@singnet.com.sg
Thailand Asia Books Co.,Ltd. 65/66,65/70 Chamnan Penjati Business Center Building, 7th Floor, Rama 9 Road,Huaykwang,Bangkok 10320 Tel: 02-715-9000 Ext 5802 Fax:02-715-9197
2VYLH Jeong Eun Corp. 166-4 Sukchon-dong Songpa-gu , Seoul, Korea Ms Jungeun KIM Tel: 822 420 8272 Fax: 822 420 8272
0UKVULZPH PT INDOPROM INDONESIA Jl. Komodor Halim Perdana Kusuma No. 12 – Jakarta Timur 13610 Ph: 021-8011296, Fax: 021-80877837
Taiwan Chain Link Co., Ltd. No.20, Baogao Rd., Xindian City, Taipei County 231,Taiwan (R.O.C.) TEL: 0800-295-666 FAX: (02)8219-3320
/VUN 2VUN HUK 4HJH\ Available at the following locations: Circle-K, PageOne, Dymocks, HMV, Joint-Publishing, Relay, Newslink. All Bookshop and newsstand outlets in Hong Kong and Macau. Available at the following newsstands in HK Hotels: Mandarin Hotel. Conrad Hotel. Island Shangri-La Hotel. Renaissance Harbour View Hotel. Renaissance Kowloon Hotel. Intercontinental Grand Standford. Intercontinental Hotel. IFC Development (Hotel)
/LHK 6MĂ„JL Rm., 2806 Paul Y Centre, 51 Hung To Road, Kwun Tong. Kowloon, Hong Kong. Tel: 852-3171 4799 Fax: 852-2528 3991 Fashion Editor Fiona Kanaley .YHWOPJ +LZPNULY Agnes Chung Jessie Law 7OV[VNYHWOLY Terence Chan Raymond Chan 79 4HYRL[PUN Valentino Wan
+PZ[YPI\[PVU CLT Newspaper & Magazine Distribution Limited 2/F., Central Industrial Building 57-61 Ta Chuen Ping Street Kwai Chung, Kowloon Tel: 852-2720 8888 Fax: 27862627 +PZ[YPI\[PVU +PNP[HS ,KP[PVU Zinio, LLC 2 114 Sansome Street, 10th Floor, San Francisco, CA 94104, USA www.zinio.com (K]LY[PZPUN /V[SPUL Tel: 852-3171 4799 Fax: 852-2528 3991 email: info@wfm.hk
:HSLZ 4HYRL[PUN Tom Tong Trademark WFM is a registered trademark of Enews-Asia.com Limited. Copyright @ 2012 by WFM All Rights Reserved (SS 9PNO[Z 9LZLY]LK Reproduction of any part of WFM+MEN without the express written consent of the publisher is strictly prohibited 2012 >-4 4,5 PZ W\ISPZOLK PZZ\LZ WLY `LHY 4HYJO HUK :LW[ ^^^ ^MT OR
fashions from the runway Emporio Armani
Dolce & Gabbana
CONTENTS Milano Moda Uomo A/W 2012-13
Mode a Paris A/W 2012-13
04
Bottega Veneta
46
Moncler Gamme Bleu
80
3.1 Phillip Lim
134
Walter Van Beirendonck
06
Burberry Prorsum
48
Moschino
82
Agnes B
136
Yohji Yamamoto
08
Calvin Klein
50
Neil Barrett
84
Ann Demeulemester
138
Acne
10
Canali
52
Nicole Farhi
86
Bill Tornade
139
Adam Kimmel
12
Dirk Bikkembergs
54
Ports1961
88
Christian Lacroix
140
Ami Alexandre Mattiussi
14
Dolce & Gabbana
56
Prada
90
Comme des Garcons
141
Backlash
16
DSquared2
58
Pringle Of Scotland
92
Damir Doma
142
Boris Bidjan Saberi
18
Emporio Armani
60
Roberto Cavalli
94
Dior Homme
143
Cerruti
20
Enrico Coveri
62
Salvatore Ferragamo
96
Dries Van Noten
144
Julius
22
Ermanno Scervino
64
Siviglia
98
Givenchy
145
Qasimi Hommes
24
Ermenegildo Zegna
66
Versace
100
HenrickVibskof
146
Wooyoungmi
26
Etro
68
Vivienne Westwood
102
Hermes
147
Y Project Yohan Serfaty
28
Frankie Morello
70
Z Zegna
104
Issey Miyake
148
Allexis Mabille
30
Gazzarrini
72
Corneliani
106
Jean Paul Gaultier
149
Kolor
32
Giorgio Armani
73
Costume National
108
John Galliano
150
John Lawrence Sullivan
34
Gucci
74
Daniele Alessandrini
110
Junn J
151
Bernhard Willhelm
36
Iceberg
75
Diesel Black Gold
112
Junya Watanabe
152
Victor & Rolf
38
Jil Sander
76
Missoni
114
Kenzo
153
Yves Saint Laurent
40
John Richmond
77
Philipp Plein
116
Kris Van Assche
154
Songzio
42
John Varvatos
78
Roccobaroocco
118
Lanvin
155
Raf Simons
44
Les Hommes
79
Trussardi
120
Louis Vuitton
156
Maison Martin Margiela
122
Mihara Yasuhiro
124
Thierry Mugler
New York A/W 2012-13
126
Paul Smith
157
DKNY Men
128
Rick Owens
158
Rag & Bone
130
Rynshu
159
;VTT` /PSĂ„NLY
132
Thom Browne
WFM+MEN Fashion from the Runway A/W 2012-13
MILAN A/W 2012-13
Bottega Veneta A dark aesthetic with a rebellious edge took to the runway at Bottega Veneta. Zippered bombers were worn over cool leather trousers and ebony pants were paired with structured jackets in black, white and shimmering silver. Thomas Maier also reworked tailored suits, with slim-fit jackets instilling a youthful air, while contrasting panels gave a sleek, OPW ÄUPZO 寶緹嘉時裝發布會的伸展台上展現了一種 帶有反叛風格的黑暗美學。拉鍊飛行服罩 在酷感十足的皮革長褲和黑檀色短褲外 面，與一體式的黑色、白色和亮銀色夾克 搭配。托馬斯•梅爾還重新設計了西式套 裝，同時貼身的夾克帶來了一種青春的氣 息，而與之形成鮮明對比的雜色布條形成 了一種圓滑、時尚的感觀。 !
!
Burber ry Prorsum With flashes of light illuminating a figure caught in the pouring rain, the Burberry Prorsum show revelled in its quintessential Englishness. To cope with the inclement weather, models toted umbrellas with ornate handles and sported an array of stylish flat caps. Steering clear of a conservative look, slate-grey skinny pants were recharged by spotted ties, voluminous trenches banded with strips of colour, funky, striped knitwear and studded, black gloves. 在傾盆大雨下若隱若現的燈光襯托出的 背影中，博柏利•珀鬆時裝發布會展現 了純粹的英倫情調。為了應對惡劣的天 氣，模特們手握有著絢麗把手的雨傘展 示了一系列時尚的平頂帽。為了避免形 象過於保守，採用斑點圖案的領帶、飾 以色條的蓬鬆雙排鈕外套、另類的條紋 針織衫以及帶有飾釘的黑色手套來裝點 石板灰修身窄腳褲。 !
!
Calvin Klein Working from a palette dominated by black, grey and camel, Italo Zucchelli created a chic collection of pareddown classics. Unadorned, boxy coats and simple, crewneck tops paired with baggy, centre-pleat trousers radiated a harmonious appeal. Meanwhile, accelerating the show’s smart casual finesse, trim, streamlined suits were worn with unfussy knits and gleaming lace-up shoes. 伊塔羅•祖切利採用以黑色、灰色和駝 色為主的色調形成了一個簡潔風格的別 緻經典系列。未經裝飾的箱形外套以及 簡單、圓領上衣與寬鬆、中心褶皺長褲 散發出調和的魅力。同時，為了增強時 裝發布會靈動的休閒風格，剪裁整齊的 流線形套裝與簡約的針織衫和閃亮的繫 帶鞋搭配。 !
!
Canali Reinterpreting English elegance, the Italian house of Canali paraded tailored, pinstriped suits and double-breasted coats amid 60s-inspired graphics, rollnecked sweaters and lashings of velvet. Silk ties and pocket handkerchiefs fuelled the collection’s dandy aesthetic, while sweeping, army-styled coats, rigid bomber jackets and studded belts hinted at a tougher regime. 來自意大利的品牌康納利重新詮釋了英 倫典雅氣質，展示了剪裁得當的細條紋 套裝和採用靈感源於上世紀60年代圖形 的雙排扣上衣、翻領毛衣和大量的天鵝 絨服裝。絲質領帶和手帕賦予了整個系 列華麗的美感，而風格飄逸、軍裝樣式 的上衣、硬質飛行夾克和鉚釘皮帶暗示 著這是一個風格剛勁的系列。 !"
!!
Dirk Bikkembergs For his debut at Dirk Bikkembergs, South-African designer Hamish Morrow presented a diverse collection of casual looks. Loose-fit leather pants were followed by black, double-breasted jackets and carnation pink sweaters. For a striking contrast, sporty nuances rippled through the show with the addition of baseball-like caps and gripping tops, while military-inspired coats infused a sense of structured rigidity. 首次為Dirk Bikkembergs 操刀的南非設計 師哈米西•莫羅呈現了一個風格多樣的便 裝系列。在寬鬆的皮革短褲之後，黑色雙 排扣夾克和康乃馨粉色毛衣相繼出場。為 了形成強烈對比，整個時裝發布會充滿了 動感色調，同時增加了仿壘球帽和引人注 目的上裝，而靈感來自軍裝的上衣形成了 有機的剛勁感。
!"
!"
Dolce & Gabbana With their show entitled ‘Tailoring Baroque’, Dolce and Gabbana employed traditional Italian fabrics and tailoring techniques to create modern pieces steeped in nostalgia. Before a backdrop of draping curtains, twinkling chandeliers and gilded chairs, models paraded dapper suits and sleek, double-breasted coats. To capture the LZZLUJL VM [OL VSK ^VYSK S\_L ÄUPZOLZ were incorporated, with silky prints, velvet touches and shots of fabulous, dusted-gold embroidery accentuating the collection’s brilliant, antique fervour. 在以“巴洛克裁剪”為主題的時裝發布 會上，杜嘉班納采用了意大利傳統布料 和裁剪方法設計出了沉浸於懷舊思緒中 的現代感服裝。在褶皺窗簾、閃閃發光 的枝形吊燈和鍍金椅子的背景下，模特 們展示了整潔的套裝和圓滑的雙排扣上 衣。為了捕捉舊世界的精髓，採用了奢 華的配飾，並且通過絲質印花布、天鵝 絨裝飾和少量絢麗的金色刺繡突顯了整 個系列亮麗、古樸的風格。 !"
!"
DSquared2 To the beat of Pink Floyd’s ‘We Don’t Need No Education’, models at DSquared2 peeled themselves away from a classroom backdrop to parade ULV JSHZZPJHS SVVRZ (\[OVYP[H[P]L ÄN\YLZ striding the catwalk in slim-fit suits and nonchalant ‘students’ clad in distressed jeans and cropped jackets created skinny, retro silhouettes. Meanwhile, narrow ties, diamond-knit vests and furtrimmed parkas gave the collection a distinctly-60s feel. 在平克•佛洛伊德《我們不需要教育》節 拍中，D二次方時裝發布會上的模特們從 教室樣式的背景中走出，展示了新古典主 義的形象。舍我其誰的身影在伸展台上大 步走過，穿著緊身套裝和冷豔的“學生 派”破洞牛仔褲和短款夾克形成了瘦削的 複古形象。同時，窄版領帶、菱形編織背 心和毛皮鑲邊的防風大衣為整個系列賦予 了獨特的上世紀60年代感覺。 !"
!"
Emporio Armani Romantic images took to the runway at Emporio Armani as models donned sweeping coats, chic berets and widebrimmed fedoras. A minimalist look prevailed, with pared-down tops and unfussy knitwear worn over loose-fit pants. Meanwhile, stiff leather jackets gave rise to a hard-lined aesthetic that was mellowed by velvet pants and draping, tactile scarves. 當模特們身著風格飄逸的上衣、別緻的 貝雷帽和寬邊淺頂軟呢帽現身時，安普 里奧•阿瑪尼時裝發布會的伸展台上呈 現出浪漫的形象。整個系列以簡約形象 為主，簡潔的上裝和針織衫與寬鬆的短 褲搭配。同時，硬質皮夾克形成了硬線 條的美感，並以天鵝絨短褲和懸垂的觸 感頭巾進行調和。 !"
!"
Enrico Coveri There was a collegiate feel to Enrico Coveri’s latest collection, with models showcasing dapper suits in slate-grey and bold checks. Accentuating the show’s preppy look, hooded, casual jackets sported toggled closures and reading glasses were paired with subdued bowties. Meanwhile, a 60s aura was imbued by roll-necked sweaters, cuffed, skinny pants and boxy coats in vibrant tangerine and deep powder blue. 恩里科•卡文裡的最新系列有一種學院 派的感覺，模特們展示了石板灰醒目方 格圖案的整潔套裝。連帽休閒夾克採用 牛角扣，低調的蝶形領結配以近視眼 鏡，突出了時裝發布會的預科生形象。 同時，鮮豔橘紅色和深粉藍色的翻領毛 衣、翻邊修身窄腳褲和箱形外套滲透著 上世紀60年代的氛圍。
!"
!"
Ermanno Scervino For the coming season, Ermanno S c e r v i n o c re a t e d a c o o l , c a s u a l collection where the focus was on its fabulous knitwear. Contemporary argyle prints spanned sweaters in grey, green, black and dazzling cornflower blue. Buttoned, ribbed cardigans were paired with elegant fedoras and highnecked pullovers stood out in creamy ridges and bold, nautical stripes. Ermanno Scervino為下一季設計了一個酷 感十足的休閒系列，其中最引人注目的 是絢麗多彩的針織衫。灰色、綠色、黑 色和耀眼的矢車菊藍毛衣上穿插著富於 現代感的多色菱形印花布。帶鈕扣的棱 紋開襟羊毛衫與雅緻的淺頂軟呢帽和高 領套衫搭配，上面的奶油色凸紋和航海 條紋十分醒目。 !!
!"
Ermenegildo Zegna Set against a backdrop of falling snow and flickering flames, Ermenegildo Zegna showcased a relaxed collection perfect for that weekend retreat in the mountains. Smart, casual trousers were paired with simple, roll-necked sweaters and unbuttoned shirts. For ventures beyond the cabin, embossed leather and lashings of shearling promised to keep out the cold, while a myriad of sleek, plaid suits heralded a return to city dwelling. 以漫天飄落的大雪和閃爍不定的火焰作 為背景，傑尼亞展示了非常適合週末在 山岳之間休假的休閒系列。剪裁靈巧的 休閒褲與簡約的翻領毛衣和無鈕襯衫搭 配。如果要到戶外探險，壓花皮革和大 量的綿羊革可以抵禦嚴寒，而多種多樣 的超炫的格子花呢套裝預示著回歸城市 生活。
!"
!"
Etro Billed as ‘The Great Flight’, Kean Etro’s show saw models stride between theatrical images of Pegasus, taking o n l o o k e r s o n a m y t h i c a l j o u r n e y. The result was a fabulous, giddy mix of feathery details, from striking cummerbunds and tactile vests to fine scarf fringing and bold, whirling prints. Dramatic, Aztec-inspired designs crept across jackets, traced the length of coats and engulfed svelte suits, printed shirts and standout ties. 金恩•艾特羅的時裝發布會以“偉大的飛 行”作為宣傳口號，模特們在具有戲劇效 果的飛馬形象之間穿梭，帶著觀眾們踏上 一段神話之旅。羽毛細節以天外飛仙、眼 花繚亂的方式搭配，從醒目的寬腰帶和充 滿觸感的背心到精緻的頭巾緣飾和引人注 目的漩渦形印花布。靈感來自阿茲克特文 化的誇張設計樣式充斥著各款夾克、上 衣、貼身套裝、印花襯衫和亮色領帶。
!"
!"
Frankie Morello Ever the showmen, for their latest venture, Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti captivated with a brilliant, glittering extravaganza. Envisaging the darkness found in a metropolis, spiked with images of tarmac and metal, the duo created jet black pieces, covered in trailing masses of studs. With the coming of dawn, so too came traces of the Orient with fringing, embroidered smocks and draping beads to purify the soul. 作為長期的秀場達人，Maurizio Modica與 Pierfrancesco Gigliotti的最新作品簡直就是 一場絢麗多姿、光彩奪目的華麗表演。整 個系列以都市中的黑暗作為出發點，展示 了柏油碎石和金屬的形象。二人組設計了 烏黑色的服裝並採用大量鈕扣加以點綴。 隨著拂曉的來臨，通過帶有緣飾的刺繡罩 衫和垂懸的串珠使得東方的印跡也逐漸顯 現，體現出淨化靈魂的主題。
!"
!"
Gazzar rini Gazzarrini presented a pareddown collection in sombre shades, punctuated by vibrant shots of deep turquoise and hot pink. Playing with proportion, Marco Ciampalini paired fitted jackets with baggy, cropped pants and clean-lined suits with elongated, zippered tops. Unfussy b o o t s re i n f o rc e d t h e m i n i m a l i s t aesthetic, while patterned cardigans and mottled scarves infused the show ^P[O Z\I[SL ÅHTIV`HU[ ÅV\YPZOLZ Gazzarrini呈現了一個色調幽暗的簡約系 列並採用少量鮮豔的深青綠色和亮粉色 作為點綴。馬克•恰帕里尼非常注重比 例協調，將貼身夾克與寬鬆的短褲、線 條清晰的套裝和加長拉鍊上裝搭配。簡 約的靴子增強了極簡主義的美感，而花 紋開襟羊毛衫和雜色頭巾為時裝發布會 注入了巧妙、艷麗的華彩。
!"
!"
Giorgio Armani Adhering to a dark palette, Giorgio Armani created an array of striking, casual looks that radiated with an air of sophistication. Fitted, black leather jackets grazed draping, grey pants and cool, fingerless gloves brushed smartly-tailored overcoats. Marle knits and buttoned vests instilled nonchalant touches, while stylish berets, sapphire ZPSR ZOPY[Z HUK M\Y JVH[Z YLHMÄYTLK [OL collection’s luxurious undercurrent. 在延續一貫暗色調的基礎上，喬治•阿 瑪尼設計了一系列醒目的休閒形象，散 發著強烈的成熟感。貼身黑皮夾克配以 懸垂的灰色短褲，酷感十足的無指手套 與裁剪精巧的大衣相映成趣。灰色編織 衫和鈕扣背心帶出冷豔的觸感，而時尚 的貝雷帽、天藍色絲質襯衫和皮大衣再 次突出了整個系列奢華暗湧的主題。 !"
fashion from the runway
www.enews.com.hk www.wfm.hk