VISION China : Chihuahua 5 by Raechel Running

CHIHUAHUA

嗨，奇瓦瓦！ text & photo Raechel Running

这是一次视觉的长途旅行，一次对墨西哥奇瓦瓦州境内大卡萨斯（Casas Grandes）流域的探索之旅。位于美国和墨西哥边境向南100英里，沿途路程不足50英里的这片土地，就像一扇通往另一个世界的窗口，鲜有人提及。我所看到的，是美丽的自然景观和别具特色的文化——正张开双臂，热情拥抱每一个到访的客人。

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情系奇瓦瓦 text & photo Raechel Running

奇瓦瓦是墨西哥北部最大的一个州，与美国的新墨西哥州与得克萨斯州接壤。提到这里，很多人的头脑中只会想到沙漠，他们并不知道，其实奇瓦瓦拥有全墨西哥最大面积的森林，还有分布于火山两侧的大面积草原和农田所组成的一条条宽阔而富饶的走廊。事实上，在去奇瓦瓦之前，我对它惟一的了解就是那只体型微小、眼睛大大的说着西班牙式英语，头戴墨西哥宽边帽，卖墨西哥玉米卷饼快餐的小狗形象。我并不了解有关这个地区的历史和其它事情，甚至根本没有注意过它的存在以及与古文化的关系。然而当真的到了奇瓦瓦，我便一下子沉浸在它丰富的文化、历史以及神秘的过去之中。

¡¡¡ AYYY CHIHUAHUA!!! 是一种表达惊奇与喜悦之情的方式，可以说恰如其分地表达了我对奇瓦瓦的第一印象。一片土地的胸怀究竟能有多么宽广？我对奇瓦瓦的感觉就像是墨西哥流浪艺人演唱的古老的爱情歌曲那样，“想要回来，不想离去”——有些时候，尽管你听不懂歌词的意思，它却依然能扣动你的心弦。那是一种充满强烈的爱和渴望的情绪，在深夜十分，当月亮挂在高空，沙漠期待水神的时候，缭绕在你的心头……

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This is a visual odyssey, an exploration of the Casas Grandes Valley in Chihuahua, Mexico. It covers an area less than fifty miles down one stretch of road a hundred miles south of the US/Mexico border. It is a window into another world rarely reported and seldom seen. Beyond the fear and warnings issued by my country the United States, what I have discovered is a landscape and a culture that willingly opens it’ s arms and embraces visitors with curiosity and personal interest. ¡¡¡ AYYY CHIHUAHUA!!! Is an expression of amazement, delight and surprise. What is the size of a heart as big as the endless horizon? The sentiment for Chihuahua rolls out like old Mariachi love songs, I hate leaving and love returning-the music resonates within the core of the heart even if you don’ t know the meaning of the words. It is full of passionate sentiment of love and longing, playing late into the night when the moon goes down and the desert dreams of water gods. This is the land of ancient winds and feathered serpents at the crossroads of the Americas. The only Chihuahua I was familiar with was the miniature, large eyed, Spanglish speaking dog with a sombrero selling fast food tacos. I embarked on my first journey to Chihuahua not knowing anything about the region or it’s historical significance; I had never considered it’s existence nor it’s important connections to the ancient cultures of the Greater Southwest. It is the biggest state in northern Mexico and shares the United States borders of New Mexico and Texas. Most people envision only a desert. But what most people don’t know is Chihuahua has more forests than any other state. It has corridors of vast prairies and agricultural farms flanked by volcanic mountain ranges. The western edge of the Sierra Madre Occidental is a part of the backbone of the American Cordillera a mountainous seam that runs from Alaska all the way to the end of South America. I am entranced! I find myself enfolded into this rich culture steeped in history and the mysteries of the past.

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PAQUIME： THE ANCIENT ONES

帕魁姆

古老的传奇 text & photo Raechel Running

在美国和墨西哥之间还没有确立国界之前，这里曾被西班牙人称为“Gran Chichimeca”，在那瓦特语中的意思是“富饶之地”。地理范围包括今美国西南的外围和墨西哥北部地区，这个区域的中心便是大卡萨斯（ C a s a s G r a n d e s ，西班牙语意为“大家族”，也就是P a q u i m é）。考古学家查理·迪·帕索与艾杜阿多·康切拉斯在 1958 与 1961 年间发掘出土的部分土坯建筑与输水管道系统被认为是目前在美洲发现的最复杂的设计之一。在西班牙人到来前的 100 多年，帕魁姆是由各种商人（包括牧师、工匠、艺术家等等）所组成的复杂的宗教社会的圣地。在 Medio（AD1060–1340）的鼎盛时期，他们的贸易足迹遍及整个中美洲以及美国西南部。现已发现的为祭司礼仪、居住和储存用途而建的多室结构建筑就有 900 座以上。而那些龙舌兰酿造室、球场，还有羽蛇、鹦鹉的雕塑等，依然在这美丽的光影迷宫之中保持原样。同时，这里的建筑特色也与美国西南地区的古普韦布洛（Puebloan）文化有着密切的联系。如今，对于先人留下的伟大遗迹的历史价值的界定，依然是学术界不断的争论话题。

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Before border lines were imposed between the two countries the region was known by the Spaniards as the Gran Chichimeca, a Nahuatl word for “the land of Milk”. It encompasses the greater southwest of the United States and Northern Mexico. At the heart of the region was Casas Grandes (the Spanish word for Great Houses; also known as Paquimé). Partly excavated by archaeologists Charles Di Peso and Eduardo Contreras between 1958 and 1961, the adobe architecture and aqueduct system has been recognized as one of the most complex designs discovered in the Americas. A hundred years before the Spaniards came, the ancient trading center of Paquimé was the mecca of a complex religious society of Puchtecas -trader priests, craftsmen, artisans, and aviculturists connected to extensive trade routes throughout Mesoamerica and the Greater Southwest at the height of the Medio period (AD 1060–1340). More than nine hundred multi-chambered structures were organized into ceremonial, living, and storage areas. Agave roasting pits, ball courts and effigy mounds in the forms of a plumed serpent, a parrot, and a directional cross still hold their positions in this beautiful maze of shadow and light. The architectural features have synchronistic connections to the migratory Ancient Puebloan cultures of the southwestern United States in sites throughout Arizona, Utah, New Mexico and Colorado. The majestic profile of worn adobe, a shadow of its former greatness, still inspires awe and fierce debate regarding it’s historical importance amongst scholars.

THE MUSEUM OF NORTHERN CULTURES

北方文化博物馆

北方文化博物馆在 1998 年被评为世界文化遗产，它藏有古墨西哥最美的考古藏品之一。这座现代化的当代建筑与古老的城市和周围的自然环境实现了完美的融合。这里收藏了最精美的古代墨西哥文物珍品，圆形的大厅里展示了难以计数的史前古器物，包括贝壳与软体动物、绿松石、铜铃、精美的陶器，还有火鸡与金刚鹦鹉的标本以及各种磨盘。

The Museum of Northern Cultures was declared a World Heritage Site in 1998. The contemporary architecture of the new building is harmoniously sensitive to the aesthetics of the ancient city and the surrounding environment. It co-exists with nature and the municipality of Casas Grandes. Hosting one of the most beautiful archeological collections from ancient Mexico it is an active archeological site. Artfully displayed in the circular hall of the museum the numerous artifacts include millions of seashells and mollusks, turquoise beads, copper bells, figurative ceramics, turkey and macaw relics and stacks of metates.

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通往大卡萨斯的道路 text & photo Raechel Running

当通过最后一道边防检查站，就到了门诺派教徒的地盘。映入眼帘的是大片的草原和苜蓿、玉米、小麦和辣椒田纵横交错。东边是门诺派教徒聚居地，Capulín草原和Corralitos大农场向远处延伸，逐渐消失在紫色山峦之中。西边是一片片雨云和平顶山。更远处的南面，是新兴的城市新大卡萨斯（Nuevo Casas Grandes）。城里的现代混凝土建筑常常还结合了旧时土砖房屋的元素，并且粉刷成各种鲜艳的颜色。路边有售卖靴子和玉米卷饼的店铺，也有一些流动的摊贩兜售各种东西，比如传统的药草、新鲜的土豆片和牛仔帽。老大卡萨斯与古城帕魁姆毗邻，是一个单独的整体区域，包括中心公园、教堂和地方政府办公室。再往南，穿过大量的农田，是三个自治区：Colonia Juárez，Cuahutemoc和Colonia San Diego。最后，在Palanganas河畔新铺设的马路的尽头，Indio山脚下，便是著名的陶艺工匠村Mata Ortiz。这个拥有着丰富的动植物种类和多变地貌的区域，也有着同样斑斓多彩的文化。除了本土种族塔拉乌马拉人（Tarahumaras）和说犹特阿兹特卡（Uto-Aztecan）语的阿帕奇印第安人后裔之外，还有西班牙、巴斯克人、苏格兰人、犹太人、中国人和日本人的后代，以及说西班牙语的本土人。既有白皮肤、蓝眼睛，说德语方言的第三代孟诺派教徒，也有同时说英语和西班牙语的墨西哥籍美国人。这些不同的种族在同一片土地上共存着，在保持各自特有的文化与语言的同时，也过着各自不同的生活。而他们的各种礼节、宗教仪式、音乐、舞蹈以及饮食都与当地的农耕、牧场以及马文化息息相关。可以说，大卡萨斯地区的历史和文化传统，正反映出了墨西哥人所特有的那种胸怀宽广、无限热忱的精神与革命灵魂。 332 VISION

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The last military checkpoint begins with Mennonite cheese stands. The landscape’s grasslands interweave with fertile fields of alfalfa, corn, wheat and chillis. To the east, the Mennonite colonies, Campo Capulín and the ranch land of Corralitos disappears against the distant horizon into purple mountains. To the west are rain clouds and mesas. Further south the municipality of Nuevo Casas Grandes, the main township, is newer. Concrete architecture is mixed with odd elements of old adobe peppered with colorful streets fronts of boot shops, taco stands, specialty stores and street vendors selling everything from traditional herbs, fresh potato chips and cowboy hats. Old Casas Grandes, referred to as el Pueblo Viejo. It shares the same neighborhood with the ancient city of Paquime. Emcompassing a one block area it contains the central park, the church and the local goverment offices.

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Further south, through more agricultural lands, are the three municipalities: Colonia Juárez (the Mormon township), Cuahutemoc and Colonia San Diego. The Cerro Montezuma is an ancient observatory, an atalaya which overlooks the region of farmlands and vast orchards. Lastly, at the end of the newly paved road along the Palanganas River, at the base of the stoic faced mountain, El Indio, is the small artisan village of Mata Ortiz. The variegated geography with its natural flora and fauna is as diverse as the cultures it supports. Indigenous tribes--the Apache and the Tarahumaras speak their own languages. Mexicans, who are descents of Spanish, Basque, Scottish, Jewish, Chinese, Japanese and indigenous tribes, speak Spanish. Fair skinned, blue-eyed, third generation Mennonites speak an old dialect of German. Mormon Mexican-Americans are bi-lingual and speak both Spanish and English. All these communities co-exist and yet retain their unique cultures and languages. People and families celebrate the seasons of their lives. Rites of passage, religious ceremonies, music, dance and cuisine are all enmeshed with local traditions of farming, ranching, and horse cultures. The legacy of the Casas Grandes region of Chihuahua reflects the spiritual and revolutionary soul characterized by the expressions ”Con GANAS! “(with balls!) and the “Gran Corazon!” (the big heart!)

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美丽的奇瓦瓦 text & photo Raechel Running

CHIHUAHUA

无论年龄、等级、男人、女人还是孩子，奇瓦瓦人拥有属于自己的独特风格：勇敢、传统、与众不同。墨西哥的每一个人和每一样东西都是色彩缤纷的，与沙漠的沉闷形成鲜明的对比。在所谓粗糙的背景下，光线仿佛看上去更明亮，生命的丰富多彩显而易见。男人们走起路来昂首阔步，腰杆挺直，很像西方老电影中的人物，身上穿的牛仔裤和其它装束仿佛成为身份的象征。女人则总是优雅而镇静。她们有时穿着保守，有时候则穿得像墨西哥电视剧里女主角的戏服一样，将身体曲线展露无疑，即使是在一个偏远地区的土路上行走，也将自己打扮得像要去T台走秀一样。这里几乎每个人都穿牛仔靴，并且一般人都有几双不同颜色的靴子，用来搭配不同的帽子和带有硕大银色皮带扣的腰带。牛仔帽也随处可见，或白色，或黑色，或新或旧，不同的个性决定了帽子的款式。有时，人们还会改变传统墨西哥宽边

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帽的造型，以适应不同的天气和场合。当然，这里也一定程度上受到来自美国街头文化的影响，在一些运动场和其它地方，也都能看到带有醒目 LOGO的超大号T恤、运动衫、宽松的牛仔裤以及翘着帽沿的棒球帽。在周日下午和节假日，各个年龄层的人们都会聚集在中心公园漫步。路过的轿车与卡车的音响中传来变了调的北方歌曲和传统音乐，民间舞蹈者与音乐家竞相吸引人群的注意力。临时架起的扬声器大声叫卖着家庭自制的煎玉米卷、汉堡包、热狗以及烤玉米。还有些摊位上出售几乎所有你能想到的商品：二手服装、复制 C D 、手工艺品、烘焙食物、烹调用具，甚至还有来自中国的塑料玩具。年轻的男女成群结队地聚在一起，说说笑笑，年轻的夫妻手牵手地散步，后面跟着自己的孩子。老人们坐在长凳上，看着眼前这周而复始的人生……

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each profile is defined by the character of the wearer. You still see the symbolic icon of Mexico, the sombrero, reshaped to fit the personality or the need depending on the weather or the occasion. At sporting events and in the fields, the influence of the United States comes south in the form of urban rap culture. People sport American and Mexican designer logos on their super size T-shirts, sweatshirts, baggie jeans and wear their baseball caps tilted to the side.

No matter the age, class distinction, man, woman or child, Chihuahua has a style all it’s own. Bold. Classic. Distinct. Everyone and everything Mexican is a riot of color blooming out of the muted tones of the desert earth. It is a visual feast. The light seems brighter against what some would consider harsh backgrounds; the richness of life is unmistakable. The faces and the style are classic and distinctively western reflecting the resilient spirit of the country’ s diverse heritage. The men swagger and walk tall just like characters in old western movies as if the jeans and overalls they wear define them. The women are always elegant and poised. They may dress either conservatively or celebrate their curves with all the dramatic bling of a soap opera queen, styling even when walking down a dirt road in the middle of nowhere as if it were a catwalk in Paris. Everyone wears cowboy boots and has several pairs in every color of the rainbow with matching hat bands, and belts sporting huge silver buckles. They wear cowboy hats--white or black, weather worn or new;

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On Sunday afternoons and holidays people of all ages stroll around the central park in the social tradition of the “paseos.” It is a culture clash and the dance of life. Distorted brassy Norteños and Ranchero music blast from circling car and truck stereos. Folklorico dancers and musicians compete for the attention of the gathered crowd. Giant speakers are set up alongside makeshift family food stands which sell homemade tacos, hamburgers, hotdogs, and roasted corn. Tables and booths sell anything and everything: used clothes, duplicated cds, handmade crafts, baked goods, cookware and even plastic toys made in China. Young men and women walk and court each other in groups and pair off shyly. Young couples (known as novios) walk hand in hand followed by families with children. The older generations sit on benches watching the parade of life go round and round. Everywhere there is a mixture of sensuality and piety, a fine line expressing the reverence, tension, freedom and confidence of being connected to the world. Fashion is a bold statement celebrating the life force with joyful expression and the courage to live fully and say to life, “Look at me! I am here!”

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风中的蜡烛 text & photo Raechel Running

在墨西哥，信仰是日常生活的一部分，生活中到处可见人们信仰的表达，而不仅仅是在周日。

总体上说，墨西哥是一个以天主教为主，同时带有一些本土信仰与传统的国家。在庭院、起居室、厨房、餐馆、工作场所以及汽车的仪表盘上都可以看到自制的祭坛。圣母玛利亚的各种肖像如瓜达露佩圣母、露德圣母、七苦圣母、圣心圣母，还有圣婴像和圣 · 裘德、圣·弗朗西斯、圣·安东尼奥等的肖像常常和家庭照片一起放在钱夹里、相册里，或是悬挂在墙上，仿佛所有的成员共同组成了一个大家庭。神龛的形状和大小多种多样，也有的时候就是一个简单的十字架。人们虔诚地将神像挂在心爱人的脖子上以祈求神灵的保佑，为生者与死者祈福。当一个人行驶在空荡荡的马路上、山丛中或是田间的时候，有了耶稣的陪伴，你就不会感到特别孤独。

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生活中的一切都以祈祷开始。每到宗教节日和其它节日的时候，人们都会向保佑这方土地的神灵致敬。一年到头，人们常常会因为各种原因聚集在户外。不仅仅在教堂，有时候可能是祖母花园里的一棵大树下，或是在某条路上，山顶上，也可能是在烛光点缀的墓园。

Semana Santa（圣周）的时候，人们会重现耶稣受难的情景：赤脚走上山，遭受鞭打和侮辱，一次次地跌倒在路上，直到最后被钉在十字架上，悬于干涩的山谷之上，蓝色天空之下……一切仿佛梦境一般。男男女女们肩上扛着巨大的十字架，他们互相帮助，把这沉重的信仰的标志抬上山。随后，人群慢慢散去，等待周日的时候耶稣复活。每年11月1日和2日是纪念死者的“万灵之日”。墓地的气氛有点像一场生者与逝者之间的野餐会，喜庆而悲伤，掺杂着泪水与欢笑，生与死连在了一起，孩子们在坟墓间愉快地嬉戏…… 空气中充满了蜡烛燃烧的味道与潮湿的土气。家人与朋友重新团聚，有些人特意从异国他乡回来清理并重新装饰亲人的坟墓。他们手挽着手，相互称赞对方的手艺，一边吃着已故亲人最喜爱的食物如辣椒、甜面包、玉米与甘蔗糖等，一边分享彼此的故事，用记忆填补失落的空缺。在落日余辉的照耀下，坟墓的轮廓呈现出各种色彩的剪影。祖母们轻轻抚摸着孙子们的头，祖父们引吭高歌，唱着有关爱与失去的歌，传递着手中的龙舌兰酒，大声地说着祝酒词，轻轻地握手——等待着孩子们的亲吻。万灵之日

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到了冬季，当白昼越来越短的时候，墨西哥人于 12月12日迎来了瓜达卢佩圣母节。宗教舞者以跳舞的形式为当地人祈福、求雨。事实上，人们很多精神上的诉求都与雨水和土地相关。当西班牙人带着基督到达墨西哥之后，“谷母”、“大地之母”、阿兹特克人的“富饶和再生女神”最后都转化为对瓜达卢佩圣母的崇拜。1531 年12 月，这位拥有褐色皮肤的圣母身着一件天蓝色的星罗棋布图案的披风，在一个名叫Juan Diego 的西班牙和印第安混血青年身上显灵。作为仁爱之母和耶稣的母亲，瓜达卢佩圣母在整个美洲都备受爱戴。过节的时候，人们相聚在午夜时分，点起篝火，设立祭坛，吃喝、祈祷，热烈庆祝他们对心目中最重要的两位神灵——瓜达卢佩圣母和耶稣的热爱。

复活节

瓜达卢佩圣母节

Faith is like a candle in the wind. Spirituality is expressed everywhere and not just on Sundays. It is a part of everyday life. Mexico is primarily a Catholic country mixed in with indigenous beliefs and traditions. Homemade altars are found in peoples' yards, living rooms, kitchens, restaurants, workplaces and on the dashboards of their cars. Divine images of Mary in all her guises(Our Lady of Guadalupe, Our Lady of Lourdes, Our Lady of Sorrow, Sacred Heart of Mary, and Jesus(the Santo Nino, and the Bleeding heart), St. Jude, St. Francis, St. Antonio and a host of others coexist alongside family photographs in wallets, photo albums, and wall displays as if everyone were one big family. The shrines come in all shapes and sizes or it may be just a simple cross. Images placed in reverence and hung around a loved ones neck implore divine intercession and protection for the living and the dead. Traveling along stretches of empty roads, mountain passes and the fields one feels never completely alone with Jesus on your side. Everything begins with a prayer. Death, like Life, is celebrated with reverence. Feast days and holidays honor the patron saints of the communities. It is not uncommon for people to gather and hold mass outdoors under the sky embraced by the elements throughout the seasons. Besides church, mass maybe given under a tree in a grandmother’s garden, on the road, up on a hill, or held in local cemeteries with candle light. Semana Santa (Holy Week)is the celebration where death becomes life. In this elaborate Catholic re-enactment of faith people of my pueblo gather under colorful umbrellas to protect them from the sun. They hold each other close like it was a cold day. They have come to witness and walk the stations of the cross accompanying Jesus as he walks. He is barefoot walking up the mountain; he is whipped and ridiculed; he stumbles and falls along the road more than once. He will later be crucified most likely by friends playing their parts before the crowd to fulfill his final destiny. His body hangs over the dry valley against the blue sky, a surreal experience of time and metaphor. Huge crosses lie heavy on the shoulders of both men and women as they help one another carry the heavy symbol of faith up the golden foothills of the Sierras that could easy be mistaken for Israel.The crowd is left in contemplation and slowly dissipates. Smaller groups hold hands and walk down the hill. Jesus is taken down, puts on his civilian clothes and

joins the others in the descent. At the end the lone ice cream seller follows. All that is left are the empty silhouettes of crosses on the hill. Jesus will be resurrected on Sunday. Dia de Las Muertes(Day of the Dead)Celebrated November 1st and 2nd they honor their dead. In the local cemeteries the ambiance is like a community garden picnic with introductions to their living and deceased family and members who are no longer of this world. It is festive and sentimental, a mix of tears and laughter, life and death hand in hand, a metaphor as children play through the graves. The air smells of burnt candles and wet earth. Families and friends reunite, and some return from the United States to clean and redecorate the shrines of their loved ones with new floral arrangements. They walk arm in arm admiring each others handiwork, visiting and sharing stories while eating the favorite foods of the deceased. Red chill, sweet bread, pasolé, corn and sugarcane sweeten and fill the empty spaces of loss with memories. A man sells balloons with Disney characters and grandmothers hands caress their grandchildrens’ heads. The graves are alive with color in silhouette of the setting sun in a play of shadow and light. The old grandpas hold court, singing songs of love and loss, passing bottles of tequila, toasting out loud,shaking hands softly- waiting for kisses from all their grandchildren. In the winter month in the waning of the light the Feast day of Our Lady of Guadalupe is held on December 12th. Matachines (Religious dancers) dance for the well being of the community and to bring rain to the fields. Water and everything spiritual is related to the cycle of rain and the bounty of the land. After Christianity arrived with the Spanish, the great Corn Mother, Tonantzin, Aztec Goddess of fertility and renewal was transformed into the Virgin of Guadalupe. The dark mother earth donned a sky blue mantle star-studded with corn amidst a plethora of roses when she appeared to the humble mestizo(a person of mixed Spanish and Indian race) Juan Diego. She is greatly revered throughout all of the Americas as the compassionate Mother and is the image of faith giving birth to the sweet baby Jesus on December 25th. Their feast days commemorate the return of light and once again people gather for midnight masses and bonfires, creating altars to eat, pray, drink and celebrate their love for Guadalupe and Jesus, the two most important icons of their collective heart.

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牛仔的领地 text & photo Raechel Running

奇瓦瓦是 1910 年墨西哥大革命的发生地，是民族英雄Pancho Villa诞生的地方。 1500 年，西班牙人入侵美洲的时候将马带到了这里。墨西哥人、西班牙人后裔、阿帕齐人和野牛猎者是北美地区最好的骑手。在奇瓦瓦，似乎每个人都知道怎样骑马，或者看上去很会骑马。马文化塑造了墨西哥人的个性，成为人们日常生活的一部分。你经常可以看到人们骑着马穿过附近的街道，穿过农田，放牧的牛群、羊群，穿过空旷的马路或直接穿过整个城镇。

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This is the land of Pancho Villa where the Mexican Revolution was born in 1910. Mexicans, descendents of Spaniards, Apaches and buffalo hunters are some of the finest horsemen in North America . Everyone seems to know how to ride a horse in Chihuahua or looks like they do. Horses came with the Spanish invasion of the Americas in the 1500s migrating north during the conquest upward to the southwest and into the great plains of America with the buffalo hunters. Horse culture defines Mexican identity and is a part of everyday life. It is not uncommon to see people riding down neighborhood streets, across fields, herding cattle, goats and sheep down empty stretches of road and right through town.

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大多数的周末以及每一个节假日，人们都会举行各种跟马有关的活动。

Cabalgata， Rodeo， Jaripeo 和Charreria马术，竞技表演，马展以及骑术，都成为墨西哥人表达对历史、传统、土地以及这个国家的热爱的方式。

Community celebrations have horse events most weekends,at every festival and on national holidays. Cabalgatas, rodeos, Jaripeos, and Charrerias are expressions of love for Mexican history, traditions, land and country.

RODEO

CABALGATA

Cabalgata是指由一群骑手组成的马队或是朝圣队伍，通常是用来在特定的活动场合再现某些重要的历史事件。在举行仪式的时候，各城镇的人们都会热烈欢迎这些骑手，给他们提供食物等各种供应品。Cabalgata Binacional Villista是为了纪念1916年3月9日Pancho Villa 领导人们反抗美国入侵，活动将持续十多天，总行程 397 公里，最终到达位于墨西哥和美国边境，在新墨西哥州哥伦比亚的Pancho Villa国家公园举行庆祝仪式。

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A Cabalgata is a procession or religious pilgrimage of a company of riders often reenacting an important historical event with the participation of the communities. Each township welcomes the calvade of riders in a ceremony and provides food and provisions to the riders. The Cabalgata Binacional Villista commemorates the March 9th 1916 invasion of the United States by Pancho Villa's men. It is over a ten day journey traversing over 397 km and ends at the Mexican/US border with a celebration at Pancho Villa State Park in Columbus, New Mexico where Mexicans and Americans commemorate their shared history.

R o d e o 是指骑术表演比赛，整个西部的牛仔们都会前来参加这项比赛，既为了他们对于这项运动的热爱，也为了赢取奖金。比赛通常分为地方、州、国家以及国际几个等级，项目包括公牛骑术、有鞍野马骑术、分组套牛以及绕桶赛马。比赛的场面非常壮观，帅气的牛仔们精心地打扮自己，昂首阔步劲头十足。时而紧张激烈，时而优雅灵活，充足的勇气支持他们奋力坚持以获得更多的分数，从而有机会进入决赛。

Rodeo cowboys make the circuit from all over the west for the love of the sport and the winning purse. Rodeos are held at local, state,national, and global competitions with bull and saddle bronc riding, team roping, and barrel racing. It is a pageantry of handsome cowboys preening and swaggering, nerves and tension, grace and agility and the sheer courage to hang on with a prayer for a eight second ride coveting as many points as possible and a chance for the finals.

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JARIPEO

CHARREADA Charreada被称为是墨西哥的国民运动。1921年，在墨西哥革命爆发以及粉碎了庄园制度之后，传统的马术运动得到保留和发扬。在当时的墨西哥电影里，经常可以看到这样的情景：头戴宽边帽，留着一撇小胡子的英俊骑手，抱着吉他弹唱兰切拉（一种传统的墨西哥歌曲），表达对他的家乡、马、牧场以及他所爱着的令他着迷的有着美丽的黑色眼睛的女人的爱慕之情……

Jaripeo是小规模的竞技表演，一般在地方的村落举行，是勇敢的年轻人证明自己的方式。露天的体育场常常坐满了人，旁边有乐队演奏，人们纷纷穿上节日盛装。小贩在人群中兜售薯片、可口可乐、啤酒、龙舌兰和 S o t o l 。前来看比赛的人把自家的卡车排成圆形，车厢面向竞技场，车上装着椅子、啤酒冷却箱、自制食品、烧烤、墨西哥玉米卷，老人和孩子们也参与其中。在其中一个比赛项目中，身手敏捷的牛仔们以最快的速度疾驰驶向埋在土里的公鸡，然后猛地弯下腰去抓住鸡头，如果失手并且公鸡仍然活着的话，来自四面八方的孩子们会冲上前去追逐公鸡，直到它被抓住并重来一次。

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Jaripeos are smaller rodeos often taking place in the local colonias and villages. It is a right of passage for the daring young men. The stadium fills up, the band plays on and everyone is dressed in their western best. Vendors sell their wares-chips, coca cola and beer, tequila and sotol flow unsparingly. Families park their trucks in a circular formation with their truck beds facing into the arena. Packed with chairs, beer coolers, homemade food, BBQ, tacos and tamales, grandmas and grandpas and babies observe and participate in the festivities of sport and games. In one event, dexterous cowboys ride at full gallop upon a buried rooster, swing down from their saddle and swoop down to grab the rooster by the head. If missed and the rooster is still alive it is chased by a swarm of children running in all directions until it is caught and then they do it again.

Charreada is considered the national sport of Mexico. In 1921, after the Mexican revolution and the breakup of the haciendas, Charrería was developed to preserve the horsemanship of the hacienda ranching traditions. It captured the country’s imagination when it became a popular motif in Mexican Cinema with the hero, a handsome, mustached Charro, donning his sombrero and singing rancheras on his guitar about love for his country, his horse, his ranch, and swooning, beautiful dark-eyed señoritas whom he loves and leaves . Participants in the charreada wear traditional Charro attire distinguishing the competitive teams of men and women who wear the iconic sombrero. Teams will compete regionally and nationally. They are given points for their attire and performance in the nine events demonstrating, dexterity, timing, finesse and strength which include bull dogging, bull and bronc riding, roping the front legs, and roping the back legs of the running horses, while simultaneously doing fancy rope tricks.

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参加骑术比赛的骑手都穿着传统华丽的传统马术服装，通过头上带着的帽子来区分男女比赛队伍。参赛队伍要先后参加地区性和国家性的竞赛。评委将根据他们的服装以及在 9 个项目中的表现给予评分，其中包括队列展示、动作的灵敏性、技巧、时间和强度，比赛包括搏牛、公牛和野马骑术、套马前腿、套马后腿以及使用绳索的技术。男骑手身着繁复的、定型的夹克衫、衬衫以及由各种复杂图案和形状的皮革装饰的裤子。女骑手的存在为赛事增添了更多的色彩与优雅。由8至12名女性组成的队伍将会表演各种危险而精彩的骑术技巧，有点类似于花样游泳，不同的是她们穿着色彩艳丽的裙子骑在马背之上，驰骋于赛场之间。看台上的观众时而欢呼，时而唏嘘。孩子们跑来跑去，男人们站在赛场边上。到处布满了灰尘。商贩巡回兜售着浸在冰桶里的掺有番茄汁、辣椒与青柠檬的 Tecate啤酒。兰切拉音乐和比赛报道响彻整个赛场，一直到太阳下山。当最后一项比赛结束之后，人们便四散而去。

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The men, the Charros, wear intricate, stylized jackets,shirts and pants embellishedwith intricate patterns cut of leather, and chaps. The women, the Escaramuzas, add the color and elegance to the event. Teams of eight to twelve women, perform a variety of breakneck precision riding techniques akin to the patterns of synchronized swimmers but instead ride sidesaddle on horseback dressed in colorful Adelita dresses interweave patterns of colors across the arena. Ranchero music plays during the play by play commentary until after the sun goes down. The stands fill up with families collectively oohing and ahhing their approval or disappointment. Children run around everywhere, the men gather behind the shoots and on the sidelines. The patina of dust covers every surface. Tecate beers sometimes mixed with tomato juice,chilli and limes and ice cold drinks are sold in buckets of ice by roving vendors; The hot sun grows into long shadows until the last event when everyone makes their way home, heading in all directions under the Chihuahua sky.

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牧场

CHIHUAHUA

text & photo Raechel Running

伴随着咖啡和夹着菜豆的玉米饼的香气，牧场的人开始了他们新的一天，尽管天还没亮。他们将马鞍扔到货车和拖车上，迎着太阳出发了，一路向东，穿过一片小麦和玉米田。随着绿色逐渐消失在贫瘠沙漠的灌木之中，天与地相互交融。华莱士家是第三代牧民，也从事国际贸易，而他们的办公地点就是奇瓦瓦沙漠。这种生活方式非常具有象征意义，传统而现代，延续着根深蒂固的传统价值、辛勤劳动、自由以及辈辈相传的家庭传统。既体现了家族的价值，也反映出人与这片浸濡在墨西哥丰富历史遗留之中的土地之间的关系。到达目的地之后，牛仔们将马鞍卸下，随后，将畜群赶进畜栏。在两天之内，将有 250 头小牛被打上标记，打针并阉割。母牛为它们的孩子们悲鸣。

Quezada家的人在中午时分聚餐烧烤，吃的有肉排、玉米饼、烤辣椒以及帮助这些食物下咽的桔子汽水和可乐。午饭后，工作开始了，他们把烙铁放入火中，将牛群分离，剩下的就是一系列的重复：捆绑，撕扯，打结，烙印，带血的内脏……这就

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Roundups and brandings: Morning starts in the dark with coffee and frijoles rolled in tortillas. Saddles are thrown into the back of the pickups and horse trailers. Heading into the sun,the drive is bright, to the east through Mennonite wheat and corn fields. The green disappears into desert mesquite. Earth and sky blend. Saddles are cinched and the cowboys fade into the distance. Later, one hears the braying of gathered cattle moving to the corrals. In two days 250 calves will be branded, inoculated and castrated. Mamas cows cry for their calves. They’ll soon be set free to roam in the grasslands. The Wallace men, are third generation ranchers and farmers. They are international businessmen. Their office is the Chihuahuan desert. The image is iconic, timeless, classic. mythic and contemporary. It exemplifies family values and a relationship to the land steeped in the rich heritage of Mexican history. It resonates deep seated traditional values, hard work, freedom and the traditions passed from father to sons. It has real guts, dirt and blood. The first gold of autumn is just a tinge in the late blooming yellow flowers. After driving the cattle in, The Quezadas’ extended family gathers in the middle of the day, for a BBQ picnic of ribs, tortillas and roasted green chilli and an and swallowing it all down with orange soda or Coca Cola. After the eating , at the the corral the branding irons are put in the flame and the real work begins. It’s all about timing on a hot afternoon in summer... Cowboys separate the calves and mothers from the herd and fathers teach their sons. It’s a circus of roping, wrangling, tying, branding, cutting, blood guts and dust; it is ranch life passed down from one generation to the next.

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大地的果实

CHIHUAHUA

text & photo Raechel Running

露天的炉火上，蓝色的火苗不断拍打着已经被熏黑了的锅。没有什么能够比拟篝火与咖啡发出的味道。到了户外，仿佛一切都变得更加美好。红辣椒、烤肉，混合着炊烟的味道，着实让人迷恋。这里的山川、草原，还有远处的高原、峡谷以及金色的平原，都是先人们开垦出来的土地。恍惚间，感觉他们并没有离开多久。位于Valle de Las Cuevas玉米田的历史遗迹被保护得很好，看起来依然像是一千年前的样子。番茄、豆、辣椒和可可都是美洲的特产。根据玉米的种植，可以推测出4000年前，人们从南墨西哥的玛雅古城到今天美国科罗拉多高原的迁移过程，从而可以看出玉米的演变与当地文化之间密不可分的关系。大卡萨斯峡谷是墨西哥最主要的农业产地。门诺派种植小麦、玉米与苜蓿，摩门人则大范围培育果园种植浆果。男女老少用褐色的双手除草、灌溉、采摘，照料大片种植着山核桃、苹果、桃、葡萄、辣椒、番茄、洋葱、玉米等作物的田地。土地因生命的到来而被赋予了生气。“我们热爱我们的土地，就像热爱我们的国家一样”一位农业工程师望着一望无际的田野说道。摘一个番茄，用手指把它碾开，你会不由得赞叹它的色泽、结实、形状、重量以及鲜嫩的表皮。闭上眼睛，想像那一望无际的绿色田野。辣椒花看上去就像点缀田间的工作人员，小小的、明亮的花朵在一片柔软的绿色海洋中时隐时现。雨水泛滥的季节，田地会变得特别潮湿，人们为了保护庄稼只能一桶一桶地向外舀水。今天他们在除草，一个月后就可以收获成熟的绿辣椒，再过一个月红辣椒就也成熟了。采摘之后，辣椒将被送到工厂，加工成有机沙拉品牌，供应西南部和其它一些地区的大型食品市场。回到美国之后，当我想念墨西哥的时候，我的手就会情不自禁地伸向各种形状、大大小小的鳄梨、番茄、木瓜和芒果，沉浸在这些绿色、红色和金色的果实当中，我仿佛摸到了墨西哥的轮廓。闭上双眼，深深地吸口气，闻着辣椒和洋葱的味道，耳畔依稀传来那绿色田野的晨曦中若有若无的墨西哥情歌的旋律。我又看到了那片田野、那片天空，以及相识的面庞，看到了那些在辣椒加工厂工作的人，一边贴着“墨西哥制造”的标签，一边被辣得流着眼泪

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A rider on horseback in a pristine wilderness speaks to the the spirt of freedom and it tastes good. There is nothing like the smell of a campfire and coffee. Blue flames lick the blackened pot brewing on an open flame. Everything tastes better outside. These are the wild mountains, prairies, vistas of plateaus, canyons and the golden plains where the antipasados (those who’ve come before) cultivated the land in their migrations. The smell of red chilli, roasted meat and smoke rises seduces the senses. It doesn’t seem that long ago when they left their fires burning and carried new seeds north. Along ancient archeological sites in the Valle de Las Cuevas corn fields are tended just as they were a thousand years ago. Tomatoes, beans, corn,chilli and chocolate are native crops grown within the Americas. Corn cobs have been dated back over 4,000 years showing paths of migrations from southern Mexico’s Mayan country to the Colorado Plateau in Arizona. It shows how indigenous cultures and the evolution of corn evolved together. The majority of Mexico’s agricultural production comes from the Casas Grande valley. Mennonites grow wheat, corn, and alfalfa. The Mormons grow extensive orchards and berries. The brown hands for men, women, children, weed, spray, pick, sort and tend great fields of pecans, apples, peaches, grapes, chillis, potatoes, onions, corn, chillis; the fruits of the earth. The fields are green with new life. “We love our fields like we love our country...” says the agricultural engineer as he embraces the fields with his eyes. Pick up a tomato. Roll it between your fingers, admire it’s color, it’s firmness; shape, weight, tender skin; Unblemished and perfect. now close your eyes and imagine how did it get here? Imagine fields of green against the horizon. The tomato in your hand was tended and picked by another hand; many hands. Chilli flowers look like workers in the fields. Small and bright in a sea of green soft laughter and teasing jokes begin row after row. I can still hear Mexican love songs sung in and out over the rows in the early morning light. The sun grows strong. It’s particularly humid from the deluge of rain. The Pecadors(the pickers) once had to hand drained the field bucket by bucket to save the crop. They are weeding today. In another month they will pick the green, fully mature chillis. In another month they will pick the red. It will go to a processing plant, be transported across the border and to be turned into an organic salsa brand served throughout the southwest and mega food stores. When I am back in the United States and I miss Mexico I find myself being drawn to into the produce department. My hand reaches out to avacados, tomatos of all shapes and sizes, papaya, mangos; I caress the curves of Mexico as I am drawn into the shades of green, red and gold. I close my eyes and I inhale deep. I smell chilli and green onions. I can still hear Mexican love songs sung in and out over the rows of green in the early morning light. I see the fields; the sky; the faces I have known flash by me. I see the label Hecho En Mexico(Made in Mexico) stuck on by some poor soul whose job it is to get it here and feel a chili inspired tear.

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CHILLI TODAY HOT TAMALE CHILLIES

CHIHUAHUA

SOTOL：THE DRINK OF THE GODS

龙舌兰——众神的饮品 text & photo Raechel Running

热辣墨西哥 text & photo Raechel Running

当我们说hot的时候，一般是指两种意思，“热”和“辣”。不管是天冷还是天热，吃点辣椒都不错！奇瓦瓦北部的食物常常会带有烟熏的甜味和柑橘味，新鲜、温暖而柔和——还有就是辣！几种简单的原料所调制出来的丰富口感成为奇瓦瓦的饮食特色。通常来说，奇瓦瓦人烹调所用的食材有辣椒、玉米、南瓜和豆类；面粉或玉米粉；各种辣椒比如鲜辣椒、干辣椒、熏辣椒、红辣椒、绿辣椒和墨西哥胡椒；蔬菜有卷心菜、小萝卜、黄瓜和胡萝卜；肉类一般是用火烤过或是炖了 24 小时的牛肉、猪肉和鸡肉；调料有盐和青柠檬；辅菜是薯片和沙拉。主食有炭烤玉米卷，烧辣椒包肉馅，鲜虾玉米饼，还有搭配洋葱和墨西哥胡椒的汉堡、烤土豆。周日的菜单则是玉米卷和蛋糕、烤肉和肉汤、牛肚汤配以新鲜的青柠檬。此外还有鳄梨酱和辣茄汁、生洋葱和胡荽，墨西哥特色干酪 Asadero和Queso fresco、煮玉米、马铃薯片、酸奶水果，各种坚果，芒果和用红辣椒染色的切成花朵形状的菠萝等。喝的东西有 Agua Dulce（一种由甜瓜、青柠檬、西瓜等新鲜水果做的果汁），用米、牛奶和肉桂做成的 Ho r c h a t a ，朗姆酒， T e c a t e 啤酒和橙汁。无论是在山间的篝火旁，还是在家、饭馆或是路边摊，人们精心烹制的食物那丰富的口感和清新的气息都会让你觉得十分美味！无论是看一看还是尝一尝，都是非常美妙的享受！

There are two kinds of hot; hot in temperature and hot as in spicy! Chilli is good to eat when the weather is hot or cold. Northern Chihuahua cuisine is a flavor explosion of smokey sweet, and fresh and citrusy, warm, ,mild, HOT and spicy,!!! The simpleness of the ingredients underlies the complex flavors brought out in Chihuahua cuisine. People cook with the basics; Chilli, corn, squash and beans. Flour or corn tortillas. Chillis of all degrees of fresh, dried, smoked; Red Green; Chipotle and Jalapeno chillis. Fresh Ingredients. Cabbage; Radishes; Cucumbers; Carrots. Meat beef, pork, chicken, best flame grilled, or simmered for 24 hours. Add salt and lime. Everything is served with a side of chips and salsa. Tacos Carbones. Chilli Rellenos. Shrimp tacos. Hamburgers and baked potatoes served with onions and jalapenos. Tamales and tortas; BBQ & Consomé; Menudo on Sundays served on the side with fresh cut limes. Guacamole with tomatillo sauce. Fresh onions and cilantro. Local cheese; Mennonite, Asadero and Queso fresco. Fresh Corn on the cob. Fresh potato chips. Cups of fresh Fruit with yogurt. Mixed nuts. Mangos, pineapples cut like candy flowers tinted with red chilli. To drink: Agua dulces (sweet waters made with fresh fruit melon, lime, Jamacia, watermelon and lime; Horchata made with rice, milk and cinnamon, Cervezas(beer)-- Carte Blanca, Tecate, Dos XX, Coca Cola, Orange Crush. Whether over an open fire in the sierras, at home, a restaurant or a roadside stand the flavor and personal attention given to food and it’s freshness makes it melt in your mouth. It is beautiful to look at and tastes divine!It is food made to feed the soul! Pompeii: Elegant dining in the Nuevo Casas Grandes is inspired from the traditional food of the region specializing in turkey inspired dishes with cream sauces, Moles and tequila.

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像高山的琼浆一样顺滑，像母亲的乳汁一样甘甜。它是阿兹特克人的龙舌兰女神赐予人类的礼物。

S o t o l 最初是一个家族秘方，曾经有一个女人在山里一家酒厂背后的马路上兜售这种酒。如今在大卡萨斯的Pueblo Viejo可以买到用龙舌兰的 “心”酿造而成的烈酒。酒被储存在一个巨大的玻璃容器中，闪亮的液体看上去比水要重些；一条盘在容器底部的响尾蛇好像在看着你。 Sotol的口感甜甜的，还有点烟熏的味道，喝一口下去，辛辣的刺激之后，会感觉到一股热流迅速从嘴里蔓延至全身，一直到脚趾。如果只是随便地把酒装在龙舌兰的空瓶或是随便一个塑料水瓶里，与朋友们分享时，一旦他们知道自己所喝的是龙舌兰酒时，他们一定反应强烈，露出非常惊讶的表情！门诺派认为这种美酒可以医治癌症与糖尿病以及风湿性关节炎，同时对呼吸与循环系统也非常好。

Sotol与这片土地之间的故事，或许可以归结为“荒漠中的甜蜜”。

Smooth like silver from the mountains and sweet as mother’s milk. The drink was a gift to humankind from Maguey the Aztec Goddess of agave nectar. Once a family secret, it was sold by a woman out of a house on a back road from a distillery in the mountains. Pueblo Viejo Galley in Casas Grandes sells the local moonshine made from the heart of a sotol plant. Sold from a large glass container, it’ s glistening liquid looks heavier than water; a coiled rattlesnake dead at the bottom of the jar looks you in the eye; interned while alive it lies in motionless suspension. Smokey and sweet it plays and bites the tongue warming the mouth all the way down to your toes. Serving it from a refilled tequila bottle or a reused plastic water bottle underestimates it’s quality when shared amongst friends much to their surprise and reaction when they learn what they’ve been drinking! Mennonites believe the elixar cures cancer and diabetes, and rheumatoid arthritis. It is also good for the respiratory and circulation. Sotol, a story connected to the land called the honey of the desert.

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你是否观察过斗鸡的眼睛？那眼神仿佛明白自己要接受一些不可避免的事情——它们看上去英勇无畏。

Have you ever looked into the eyes of a fighting cock? Theirs' is one of knowing acceptance of their inevitable - they look unflinchingly and directly without fear. The rooster is an icon in Mexico, a symbol of male prowess, of raw machismo. Cock fighting known as “Palenque,” like bull fighting is a dance blurring the edges of life and death. One does not exist without the other. It is a tradition passed on by generations of men who have come of age in the ritual of this blood sport reflective of Mexican culture. Its roots go back to Aztec warriors whose blood sacrifices fed the Sun Gods to support the continuation of life as well as Spaniards justifying killing in the name of their own God.

死亡之舞 text & photo Raechel Running

在墨西哥，公鸡象征着男性的勇猛和天然的男子气概。斗鸡像斗牛一样，也是一场生死之间的较量，不是你死就是我活。斗鸡作为墨西哥成年男子的标志性运动代代相传，其根源来自阿芝特克献出自己的鲜血来供奉太阳神，以及西班牙人以神的名义所进行的杀戮行为。斗鸡场的布局跟马术竞技场很像。在这里，你会看到很多亚洲面孔，斗鸡在亚洲已经有了 3000 年的历史，早在西班牙人到来之前就已经在亚洲移民中出现。赛场亦如同现实生活，直接而残酷。如今的斗鸡比赛是一项有着明确的规定与准则的文明的社会活动，富人和穷人、身份显贵的人和中产阶级、工人在赛场的圆圈中相会，展开角逐。四面八方不断传来公鸡的啼叫声。在观看比赛

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的人群中，你会惊奇地发现，观看斗鸡居然也成为一项家庭集体活动，很多小孩子也出现在赛场周围。参加比赛的人细心地照料和抚摸着斗鸡身上那彩色的羽毛，然后打开笼子，像拳击教练为选手包裹手臂一样给鸡的爪子缠上线，随时准备入场战斗。当自己的鸡不幸送命的时候，那表情不比看到耶稣受难轻松多少。

The Palenque arena is adjacent to the rodeo grounds. Many of the faces in the arena have distinct Asian features going back to this 3000 year old tradition from Asia that speaks of migrations before the Spaniards arrived. In the arena, as in life fully lived, is a proud display which is completely raw and honest. It is a social sporting event made civil by rules and regulations. It is a sport leveling the playing field of the rich and poor where the prestigious, the affluent, the middle and working class men who meet in the circle and bet on life. Clusters of men drink more soda and bottles of water than beer. The crowd gathers and, surprisingly, it is a family event. Children run up and down the stairs. Roosters crow in choruses from all sides. Next to a dead rooster, a baby sleeps soundly in his mother’s arms. There is an expression of love and care bestowed on the warrior birds that is reminiscent of boxers preparing to go into the fight ring. Men groom and fondle the iridescent feathers carefully attending to their birds. They open velvet lined boxes which hold the deadly silver spurs. These will be tied to the rooster’s back claw in the same manner a trainer wraps a boxer’s hands before he goes into the ring. Both men and birds punch the air and prepare to meet flesh. The resignation and anticipation of meeting one’s fate is not much different than observing the re-enactment of the crucifixion. There is a calm in the storm of a flurry of rising feathers and gloves. Boxers retire to their corners. A man puts his mouth over his rooster’s head to re-inflate the lungs for another round. The wheel spins.The bell rings. The blood of roosters, men, and Jesus spills red on the ground. The games comes to it’s end.

在羽毛的起落之间，赛场上也会出现片刻暴风雨前的平静。有时候，鸡会暂时失去斗志，退到回角落里。这时，鸡的主人就会到它身边给它鼓劲儿，准备下一轮的比赛。随着铃声一次次响起，鲜血溅了一地——游戏结束了。

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土、火、水，用双手铸造，用心灵体会梦想。时间，像一条线，巧妙地分割了空间。强有力的手，将光明与黑暗，这永恒的旋律，用一种细腻的方式，印在了陶器的表面——这就是我们的世界。图案也许是一条鱼，一只鸟，一条蛇，一个男人，一个女人它们是一切神话的来源。先人将自己的思绪表达于此，留下我们思考其中的意义。这里曾出产过很多的陶罐，有些毁坏了，丢失了，被带走了。但古人的灵魂依然在风中细语。一个又一个新的陶罐诞生，空缺的地方逐渐被填满……

得天独厚的艺术 Earth. Fire. Water. A dream shaped by hands and seen and felt with the heart.

text & photo Raechel Running

A single line drawn delicately divides space. Time. The strong hand renders a sensitive pattern of dark and light, the eternal dance, on the olla’s surface that is the world. The contour becomes a fish, a bird, a snake, a man, a woman, the animus and the communion, the foundation of myth. People share their expression and we are left to wonder the meaning of it all. Many pots have been made. Many broken, lost, carried away. Still the spirit of the ancients speak on the wind. The pot is formed over and over again. The empty space becomes full. Nothing and everything.

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陶艺大师

CHIHUAHUA

MASTER POTTER, JUAN QUEZADA

许多人把这个故事称为奇迹，就像在没有下过雨的沙漠中发现水一样。这是关于自然的灵感与美的故事，两个来自不同世界的人，Spencer Mac Callum和Juan Quezada，走到一起，共同铸造命运。一个捡到古代陶片的男孩是在什么样的精神驱使下，决定从此与泥土为伴，选择一条很少有人选择的道路？事实证明，这一选择不仅仅改变了他本人的命运，还给他所在的地区本身带来了繁荣。如今，Mata Ortiz的陶艺家们对这种诞生于墨西哥北部古代历史之中的制陶技术的艺术革新已经获得了国际上的认可。

This is a story some call a miracle, like water in the desert after no rain. It is about the inspiration and beauty of nature; and how Spencer MacCallum and Juan Quezada, two people, worlds apart came together and the alchemy of destiny. What spirits called to a boy who picked up ancient pot shards and became the man who dug clay inspired by what he found? Following a path less taken, the gift of observing changed not only his own life but he helped his community to flourish and sustain itself. The Mata Ortiz ceramics have brought international recognition to the artistic innovation born from the ancient history of northern Mexico. The legacy lives on speaking to the world beyond the river valley of Mata Ortiz.

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新一代的陶艺家

CHIHUAHUA

THE NEW GENERATION OF POTTERS

随着新一代陶艺家的成长， Mata Ortiz的陶艺风格得到持续繁荣的发展。艺术家们不断推动制陶艺术的创新和改革，令人惊叹的设计和造型不断吸引着来自世界各地的艺术收藏家们。 The Mata Ortiz style continues to flourish with the new generation of potters who are pushing the boundaries of ceramic innovation and still captivating art collectors world wide with their visually exciting design and form.

SABINO AND VERONICA VILLALBA Sabino和Veronica Villalba是一对夫妻组合，他们的作品属于传统的大卡萨斯拉莫斯彩饰风格。父亲Andres Villalba去世后， Sabino继承了他的事业，根据古代陶器的审美学，创作具有典型大卡萨斯风格的精美陶器。 Sabino and Veronica Villalba, husband and wife follow the traditional Ramos Polychrome style characteristic of the Casas Grandes culture. After the death of his father Andres Villalba, Sabino continued the tradition of creating magnificent Casas Grandes effigies following the designs and aesthetics of the ancient potters.

DIEGO VALLES Diego Valles因创新地采用了不同的制陶技术从而改变了陶罐的结构和实体空间而获得了奖项。 2008年，他代表墨西哥出席了在德国柏林举行的第40届年度国际旅游博览会。 Diego Valles has won awards for his innovative use of different pottery techniques pushing the boundaries of form and negative space to new limits. In 2008 he represented Mexico at the 40th annual International Tourism Fair in Berlin, Germany.

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GLORIA HERNANDEZ SILVEIRA MOTHER（母亲） GOYAN SILVEIRA&GRACIELA MARTINEZ QUEZADA SON & DAUGHTER IN LAW （子女）

GLORIA HERNANDEZ SILVEIRA

Hernandez Silveria家的三代人都是陶艺家，并且拥有各自独特的创作风格和表现方式。从精细的几何图形到具有象征意义的动物图案，位于家中的收藏室里展示着各个家庭成员风格迥异的艺术作品。 Goyan Silveira & Graciela Martinez Quezada Son & daughter in law. The Hernandez Silveria family represents three generations of artists with their own unique creative expression. From detailed geometrics to the figurative and animal motifs, their gallery within their home showcases the extended family’s diverse work.

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ARMANDO RODRIGUEZ & OLIVIA MORA DE RODRIGUEZ FATHER AND MOTHER（父亲与母亲） LUIS ARMANDO RODRIGUEZ MORA SON（儿子）和村子里的很多其它家庭一样， Rodriguez-Mora家既是农场主也是陶艺师。 Armando和Olivia一起制作陶器，而Luis Armando Rodriguez的作品则是从古代明布雷斯人的传说中汲取灵感，并结合了当代的粗体几何线条，讲述了一对孪生兄弟为了保护迁移过程中的族人的安全而杀死恶魔的神话故事。 The Rodriguez-Mora family like many in the village are ranchers and potters. Armando and Olivia collaborate on pots and Luis Armando Rodriguez work is a synthesis of contemporary bold graphic lines inspired by the ancient Mimbres story designs depicting the history and myths of the hero twins who helped slay monsters making the migration paths safe for the traveling clans.

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艺术之花盛开的大卡萨斯 text & photo Raechel Running

MATIZ 光的色彩

当一个人在一个地方生活了一段时间之后，必然会与这个地方产生某种关联。大卡萨斯的艺术家们用各自不同的方式来表现自己所生活的这个地区的自然和历史。他们创作的原料垂手可得，那就是泥土、树和珍贵的石头。艺术创作没有空间和时间的界限。几百年来，大卡萨斯的文化和历史不断吸引着世界各地的画家、收藏家、学者和游客，从而逐渐推动了这里当代艺术的繁荣。 The artists in all their mediums respond to nature and the history of the region. The materials to create are at hand; earth,clay, trees, precious stones. There is a connection to place when one lives with the seasons. Seven hundred years later the history of Casas Grandes culture has given rise to the new contemporary artistic florescence in the region drawing artists, collectors, scholars and visitors from all over the world. The light and the land like the clouds move across the landscape. Creative expression knows no boundaries of space or time.

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Matiz的意思是光的色彩。 Micky Vanderwagen生长于新墨西哥州祖尼的一个商人家庭， 40多年的时间里，他一直跟著名的祖尼镶嵌珠宝打交道。在他的引导下， Mata Orti诞生了新一代的珠宝匠—— 其中包括他的兄弟Ariel，Samuel，还有Felipe Rentería Veloz和Lázaro Ozuna Silveira。他们开创了一种新的家庭手工业形式，从大卡萨斯的文化中寻找灵感，以当地的矿石和宝石为原料，通过镶嵌和沙铸等方式将珠宝首饰设计推向新的领域。

Matiz means a hue of light. Micky Vanderwagen grew up in the family trading post at Zuni, New Mexico where he help facilitate the renowned Zuni inlaid jewelry for over 40 years. In Mata Ortiz he is mentoring a new generation of jewelers, brothers Ariel, Samuel, and Felipe Rentería Veloz, and Lázaro Ozuna Silveira. They are evolving a new cottage industry inspired by the ancient Casas Grandes cultures innovating new designs using inlay and sand cast using local gems and minerals.

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THE BARRERA BROTHERS 山脉的色彩 Jesus Armando和Jose Barrera的设计灵感是马德雷山脉的不同色彩。他们取材当地的岩石、矿物、宝石以及陶艺，设计风格优雅而现代。此外，他们也制作石雕和大型动物神像。兄弟二人在大卡萨斯和塔斯科都有工作室，设计作品经常在各地展出。 Jesus Armando and Jose Barrera are also inspired by the palette of the Sierra Madres. The brothers create contemporary elegant jewelry inspired by the local rocks, minerals, precious stones and Mata Ortiz ceramics. They also carved stone sculpture and larger animal fetishes. The brothers have workshops in Casas Grandes and Tasco and participate in gem shows through out the region and the southwest.

REGELIO ALMERAZ HERNANDEZ 每条裙子都有个故事在Regelio的记忆里，让他印象最深的就是孩提时代的自己在户外作画的场景。家乡的水土孕育了他的艺术天赋，他成了一名自学成才的艺术家。 Regelio相信，每一条裙子都有一个故事。整个创作过程，设计、缝制、绣花以及其它装饰都由他自己独立完成。他的客户主要是当地人和一些文化活动的需要。

Regelio的远房表妹Denise Acosta正在展示他设计的裙子——这条裙子的灵感来源正是表妹成长的地方，西班牙风情的庄园。

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Regelio’s first memory was making drawings in the air as a child. He is a self taught artist inspired by the landscape and history of the region. He believes every dress has a story. He designs, sews, embroiders and embellishes his dresses for local clients and cultural events. Denise Acosta, a distant cousin, modeled his dress inspired by the Hancienda San Diego where she grew up. Her great grandmother worked in the hacienda during the Mexican revolution. Both artist and muse cite their love and connection to their personal histories and families; the people and the land they call home.

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ROBERTO HERNANDEZ 自然奇想 Roberto在他的“自然奇想”中倾听树的歌唱，有鱼、羊、鸡和小狗的陪伴。他的作品主要是木雕和家具，还有刚刚成型的新工作室，既环保又能与自然充分融合在一起。他要把它们在自然与持续的设计中勾画成新的表现形式。受到艺术家Sam Maloof和George Nakashima的启发， Roberto选择了一种自然的方式来表现木头的原始美。这是他从父亲那里学到的东西，并且如今正在与自己的儿子和家人一起分享。 Roberto正在计划将其中一间工作室改装成旅馆兼陈列室，招待那些到这里旅行的人。 Roberto listens for the song of trees in his “caprichos naturales.” There are fish ponds, goats, chickens and puppie. His wood sculpture and furniture and his newly constructed studio takes form and building to a new expression in natural and sustainable design. Inspired by artists Sam Maloof and George Nakashima, Roberto takes a natural approach to express the natural beauty of the wood. It is a passion he learned from his father and now shares with his sons and family. He plans to open the alternative studio as a hostel and showroom for people traveling through the area.

GRICEL ORTIZ 流动的壁画 Gricel 是San Miguel Allende地区一位成功的艺术家。她的梦想是重新回到家乡大卡萨斯，在帕魁姆遗址旁建立自己的家园。作为一名艺术家，她希望通过自己有限的艺术力量为当地的文化事业做出一定的贡献。 Gricel的作品不在画廊，她的壁画装点了当地的教堂、葬礼以及街区。并且，她还组织当地艺术家开展了一项主题为“流动的壁画”的活动。在Gricel家里，可以明显看出她对青铜、雕刻、光与结构的喜爱。对她来说，艺术创作的过程也是一个她表达对上帝的感激的过程，感谢上帝赐予她的一切。 Gricel was a successful artist in San Miguel Allende. Her dream was to return to her family roots in Casas Grandes build her home next to the ruins of Paquimé. A humble artist with vision she believes wants to make an artful contribution to enrich the community through art. Instead of galleries her fresco murals adorn the local church, funerary and neighborhood streets and she has organized a walking mural project with local artists. Her home expresses her love for bronze, sculpture, light, and form; The creative process for her is her way of thanking God for all that he has shared.

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COWBOY COMFORT: RANCH STYLE 庄园风格家具在一家名为Bobbie Fieste的木材店里，可以目睹制作精美的农庄风格家具的技艺。工匠们用胡桃木、枫木和牛皮打造出一件件古典而精致的家具，高超的技艺使古老的庄园风格得以完美重现。他们向顾客提供超过100种款式的家具包括椅子、床、桌子，甚至马鞍等。这些家具价格不菲，也许你会在某些富裕的家庭中看到它们。

The craft of fine ranch furniture is expressed in the wood shop of Bobbie Fieste. A team of craftsmen,mentors and mentees recreate the spirit of the west in replicated designs of the old ranch families in Texas and the haciendas. Classic, fine wood. Walnut. Maple. Calf skins and cowhides. A custom line of a hundred pieces of furniture; chairs, beds, tables, and saddle displays will find homes in some of the most affluent homes in America.

MALCREADA BOOTS 牛仔靴牛仔帽与尖头牛仔靴可以说是奇瓦瓦的象征。牛仔靴的颜色和款式多种多样，质地有鸵鸟皮、鳄鱼皮、蛇皮以及上等牛皮等等。如果你听说一位男士或女士拥有7双或更多这样的靴子，一点也不用感到奇怪—— 因为这里有太多的颜色和款式可以选择，像这种古典款式的靴子，走到那里都会十分引人注目。在Norteno（一种墨西哥音乐风格）乐队的影响下，牛仔靴逐渐在各地流行起来。它也像当地很多其它东西一样—— 天然、原始且富有创造力。穿着它奔跑一定感觉不错！ Cowboy hats and pointy toed cowboy boots should be the emblem of Chihuahua. They come in every shade and color and kind of leather. Ostrich, Crocodile, Manta Rey, Snakeskin, and good ol’ cow. It is not uncommon for a man or a woman to own more than seven pairs of boots as it is amazing to observe the variations on the theme; it’ s classic style observed at every gathering. The Norteno Bands made them popular. like everything that is creative,bold,creative,classic in the region, there was a good idea and they ran away with it!

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在我出发去墨西哥的途中，不断听到有关近期不要去墨西哥的警告。穿越两国边境的时候，我的心情是复杂而莫名的。边境的形势有些紧张，多年以来，问题变得越来越复杂，很难找到一个简单的解决方式。一条2000公里长的围栏像一道伤疤印在美国和墨西哥的土地上——两国的国旗在天空中各自随风剧烈地摆动着。鸟儿们丝毫不理会什么警告，成群结队地飞过铁丝网，去完成它们的迁徙，一如数千年前人类在这片土地上的迁移。从精神层面上来说，艺术创作和人类的仁慈怜爱之心是没有边界的，不分国家和宗教。为了打破头脑中的界限，我们需要不断旅行，与更多的人交流。作为一个来自异乡的客人，我在大卡萨斯受到了非常热情而友好的款待。当地人邀请我到他们家中，在餐桌上一边喝着速溶咖啡、吃着玉米卷，一边说着他们的风俗传统和故事经历。奇瓦瓦人是坦诚而自豪的，他们在精神上非常富足。他们让我懂得了人与人之间是没有界限的，我们都是人类大家庭中的一员，应该回到自然之中、土地之上……我仿佛在倾听一首雄浑有力的生命之歌！

RAECHEL RUNNING BIO: RAEchel Running's work expresses the spirit of the west. Running's passion for her work goes beyond borders. From Peru to the American southwest, and the Caribbean she explores cultural and environmental issues. A published photographer for over twenty five years Running's work has been internationally recognized. Her strong visual concepts combine digital imaging and mixed media techniques to create evocative visual explorations imbued with a sense of mystery, space and visual poetry, images that explore the pathos and beauty of the human soul. Raechel was born in Flagstaff, Arizona and is of Trinidadian (Chinese and African) and American (French Canadian, Swedish) descent. She is currently a third year artist in residence living bi-nationally between the Northern Arizona and Northern Mexico. She exhibits her fine art and enjoys teaching visual literacy.

http://www.raechelrunning.com

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