Tales and Trails - Spring Summer 2023/2024

Page 1

HOLIDAY INSPIRATION / TRAVEL ITINERARIES / TOWN GUIDES / LOCAL TALES / EVENTS & WHAT’S NEW 06 | spring & summer 2023/24 MARGARET RIVER • BUSSELTON • DUNSBOROUGH • AUGUSTA FREE MAGAZINE
OPEN DAILY 11AM - 5PM | 61 THORNTON RD | YALLINGUP | WA | (08) 9750 1111
3 W W W . A R A V I N A E S T A T E . C O M

WADANDI BOODJA

The Wadandi people are the traditional custodians of the South West of Western Australia. Wadandi Boodja means Saltwater People’s Country. ‘Whilst living, travelling, visiting and holidaying on Wadandi Boodja, we ask that you respect the area and walk softly on the country taking time to listen to Boodja (Country) as she Wongi (talks) of the season, and leave nothing but footprints.’

wadandi SEASONS

Kambarang / October - November

Kambarang is known as wildflower season (the season of birth). The rain starts to ease and Boodja (Country) is warming. Acacias, banksias and other delicate flowering plants including the kangaroo paw and orchids come to life. One of the most striking displays of flowers will be the Mooja (Christmas tree or Nuytsia). The bright orange and yellow flowers of this tree signal that heat is on its way. Animals will awaken from hibernation at this time too, and birdlife will abound.

Thank you to all our contributors

birak / December - January

Birak is characterised by arid easterly or north easterly winds in the mornings and a coastal sea breeze in the afternoon. The wanajet (peppy flowers) have fallen, letting us know the rains are easing up. The sun shines hotter and the days are longer. With calmer, warmer waters, the larger djiljit (fish) species come closer. Groper, abalone, and crab are plentiful in the seas. The kaarak (red tailed cockatoos) are chewing away, dropping marri maada (honky nuts) from the trees.

bunuru / February - March

This is the hottest part of the year with little or no rain. Hot easterly winds continue with a cooling breeze most afternoons if you are close to the coast. Traditionally this was, and still is, a great time for living and fishing by the coast, rivers and estuaries. Freshwater foods and seafood made up a major part of the diet of the Wadandi people at this time.

Learnmoreatundalup.com

Anna Froederberg, Bo Wong, Bonita Grima, Brian Hoehn, Cally Browning, Cassandra Charlick, Dan Avilva, Dianne Bortoletto, Dylan Alcock, Elements Margaret River, Emily Kurys-Romer, Holly Winkle, Jacinta Keeble, Jarrad Seng, Jenny Lee, Julia Keller, Kassie Lee, Kingsley from Photocoffee, Lauren Trickett, Lewis French, Lisa Ikin, Lizzy Pepper, Maddy Lyons, Matt Deakin, Maureen Kollman, Nathan Dobbie, Paris Hawken, Rachel Claire, Reece Penn, Russell Ord, Ryan Murphy, Sarah Robinson, Sarina Kamini, Scott Slawinski, Sean Blocksidge, Sharnae Watson, Shot by Ovis, Taya Reid, Tim Campbell, Tom de Souza, West Beach Studio, and Zac White.

Cover image: Tim Campbell, Southern right whales at Point Picquet.

Tales and Trails is proudly brought to you by the Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association, Vanguard Publishing and Vanguard Print. For advertising enquiries contact Natalie Du Preez: natalie@vanguardpublishing.com.au

4
Pibulmun Wadandi Yunungjarli Elder Dr. Wayne Webb
No material published in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the permission from the publisher. The views expressed in Tales and Trails are those of the retrospective contributors and every endeavour is made to ensure information is correct at time of print but may change afterwards. Please visit margaretriver.com for the most up to date information.
TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com
The Wadandi people follow a six-season calendar. This spring and summer you’ll experience Kambarang, Birak and Bunuru Nuytsia Tree Yallingup Beach Red Tailed Cockatoo

who we are

Kaya / Hello

Our magazine is very proudly crafted for you by the Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association (MRBTA). We’re Australia’s largest Local Tourism Organisation (LTO) and have over 50 years’ experience in supporting the Margaret River Region to thrive through tourism. It is our vision that tourism in the Margaret River Region will be an experience that delights visitors, stimulates the regional economy, contributes to rich social and environmental values, and supports a vibrant local Aboriginal culture.

Our Tourism Division supports 650+ member businesses, undertakes destination management, marketing, and provides visitor information under the official Margaret River Region brand.

Our Capes Foundation Division invests in projects throughout the region which grow economic, environmental, social and cultural outcomes for our community through tourism. Capes Foundation also provides visitors experiences at the Ngilgi, Mammoth, Lake and Jewel Caves; Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin Lighthouses; Forest Adventures; and Eagles Heritage.

Follow what we do:

margaretriver.com

MargaretRiverWineRegion

margaretriver

MargaretRiver

5 Visit the #1 Winery in Margaret River The Real Review - Top Wineries of Australia 2023 Cellar Door | Open Daily | 10am to 5pm BYO picnic + wine by the glass stellabella.com.au || 9757 6377 205 Rosa Brook Road, Margaret River
TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 6 WHAT’S NEW PAGE 8 WHAT’S ON PAGE 12 WHAT’S INSIDE Best Family Friendly Beaches 14 Your Guide to Farm Foraging 18 Busselton Jetty’s Underwater Sculpture Trail & Artificial Reef 22 Ancient Wonders Above & Below Ground 28 Best Breakfasts in Margaret River & Cowaramup 34 Ellensbrook on Mokidup: A Sacred Site 38 Regenerating Wadandi Boodja 42 Local Favourite: Simone Horgan 46 Anniversaries in Art 48 All That Sparkles: The Sparkling Wine Guide 50 Conserving our Creatures 54 Behind the Gate: The Region’s Fresh Producers 60 Sustainable Stays: Six Unique Retreats 64 BUSSELTON 68 Map & Things to Do 69 Rocky Ridge: The Farm that Became a Brewery 70 DUNSBOROUGH 74 Map & Things to Do 75 Dunsborough Yallingup Graze & Bathe Trail 76 Three Scenic Hikes in Dunsborough 80 MARGARET RIVER 84 Map & Things to Do 85 The Birds of Eagles Heritage 86 Wine Trails on Two Wheels 88 AUGUSTA 92 Map & Things to Do 93 Tucked Between Two Oceans: Reset & Renew in Augusta 94 GETTING AROUND 101 OUR BACK STORY 102

ON WADANDI BOODJA

For over 60,000 years the Margaret River Region has supported one of the world’s longest, unbroken human occupations, resulting in an immensely deep cultural knowledge and connection to the land.

It is the traditional land of the Wadandi (Saltwater) People.

The Margaret River Region is a living and breathing embodiment of ancient geography and Wadandi song lines. Natural beauty, abundance of space, fine wine and fresh coastal air make a holiday here the remedy to modern life.

Telephone: (08) 9780 5911

Email: welcome@margaretriver.com

Web: margaretriver.com

MAP

7
Discover the southwest with Avis. Explore everything this region has to offer with our latest model vehicle, and wide range – including people movers and SUVs. Plus, ask about our one-way rentals with unlimited kilometers. Bun B ury | Busselton | Busselton-Margaret r iver a irport avis.co M .au | 1800 679 880

WHAT’SNew

A stylish brewhouse, underwater sculptures and 600 million years of stories above an ancient cave – there’s plenty of new experiences in the Margaret River Region. Here’s a wrap up of musttry new tours, dining and shopping to discover.

// TOURS AND EXPERIENCES

Busselton Jetty have installed 13 huge sculptures below the end of the jetty, creating a fantastic underwater sculpture trail and artificial reef for octopus, cuttlefish and other curious sea creatures.

Ancient Lands Experience at Ngilgi Cave is a new interactive and accessible above-ground bush walk experience that brings to life 600 million years of stories. Josh Whiteland of Koomal Dreaming will have a new meeting place for his excellent Aboriginal cultural tours, too.

Augusta’s thriving abalone ranch, Rare Foods Australia, has commenced tours of its sustainable and uniquely innovative fishery. Guests can stay a while at the site, which includes a café and Ocean Pantry overlooking the pristine waters of Flinders Bay and Augusta Marina.

Forage Safaris have expanded their foodie farm tours with two tasty new options. There’s a new hands-on cooking experience, teaming up with Wildwood Valley Cooking School. And a full day touring Rare Foods’ abalone ranch followed by foraging on the farm at Glenarty Road.

Busselton Library has unveiled an interactive story time trail the whole family can enjoy during a coastal walk or bike ride. The

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 8
Private Properties’ new ‘Flametree’ Ancient Lands Experience at Ngilgi Cave

Storytime Way features 20 panels spanning 1.6km of foreshore from near Busselton Primary School and finishing at Longlands Park, Geographe. The panels will be updated seasonally so kids can get excited about a new story.

// WINE PARADISE

Timber hangar doors roll open to reveal Matilda the Tiger Moth at the entrance to Edwards Wine’s sumptuous new cellar door. It’s a deliciously dark industrial-luxe space with panoramic views across Chardonnay vines and an oversized map showing Brian Edwards’ flight path from London to Perth in the gleaming yellow biplane. Taste a range of premium wines and explore works by renowned photographer in the new Russell Ord Gallery.

The Valley Margaret River is set to throw open the doors to their cellar door later this year, sharing their small batch single vineyard wines, award winning experimental craft beers and slice of Sebbes Road

9
Willow Wood Glamping Retreat
Edwards Wine’s sumptuous cellar door is a deliciously dark industrialluxe space with panoramic views across Chardonnay vines

paradise with visitors. The vineyard has been producing fine wines since the 70s, and new owners Rhys and Kate are putting their fun, modern spin on the place.

// DINING

Dunsborough’s much-anticipated Southcamp has opened at last, with coffee, cabins and a continental deli set to open. It’s a sleek social space centred around an alfresco green, with cabins placed nearer the creek line. Locals have embraced it already – and we love that they’ve kept the beautiful old marri trees. Go for a drink and a bite to eat.

The Goose reopened in winter following a 2021 fire and complete rebuild, bringing back breakfast, lunch and dinner with Busselton’s best bay and jetty views. Built to the same footprint, inside there’s a comfortable new interior and plenty of favourites returning to the menu – seafood chowder, crab linguini and fish and chips.

After five years slinging cheeseburgers, fried chicken and triple cooked chips from his food truck Normal Van, Canadian chef Rob Webster has opened a permanent venue on the main street of Margaret River. Think quality North American fare, fun wine and beers and great hospitality.

The Scullery is a new restaurant on the main street of Margaret River. “It’s rustic food with flair – a playground for me as a chef,” says Daniel Schoenmakers. It’s a one-chef operation with a small team including Daniel’s mum, and an eclectic share plate menu that will change regularly.

// ACCOMMODATION

Private Properties has a luxurious new holiday home, Flametree, with expansive bay views on the beach at Quindalup. Simply walk across the lawn, through the namesake trees and down to the shore where you’ll find

a sandy stretch of beach perfect for swimming or fishing. It’s perfectly positioned for exploring the wine coast, but comfortable enough that you could easily while away day without leaving the house.

Little House Republic recently unveiled two tiny off-grid cabins surrounded by dense bushland east of Scott River and Augusta. Aiming to actively regenerate the land, the cabins are solar powered yet luxurious, private and remote.

Willow Wood Glamping Retreat is an adultsonly escape positioned on an idyllic farm between Busselton and Margaret River. Book a massage – owner Amber is a trained masseur – and sip a glass of wine gazing at birds and kangaroos from your deck.

Rústicoq Bed & Breakfast breathes glamour and life back into the original Cowaramup bakery with a stylish French farmhouse renovation. The name is a cheeky reference to the rusty coq (rooster) sculpture hanging from the old sign, and the owners’ excellent other venue, Rustico @ Hay Shed Hill restaurant. You can book a room and enjoy shared open living spaces with cocktail making facilities, a gin bar and lawn games, or rent the entire property for up to 10 guests.

East Augusta Earthship is an off-grid, selfsustainable recycled home, and it recently opened for short stay accommodation. Send them a DM on Instagram for details@eastaugustaearthship

// ART, CRAFT & SHOPPING

Two sections of Yallingup Galleries’ new Sculpture Trail are open, with superb natural shapes and forms designed to look great in your garden. Featuring works by many Australian artists such as Emily Jackson, Alan Meyburgh and Denise Bending, the trail will eventually wrap around the gallery and up the hill.

Tucked amongst towering karri trees on Caves Road south of Boranup Forest you’ll find Hamelin Bay Furniture Gallery. The studio is filled with Ben’s handcrafted timber pieces, Dani’s wildlife photography plus raw timber available for purchase or commissioning.

Josh Whiteland’s latest artworks are available as prints, canvases and on giftware at Margaret River and Busselton Visitor Centres, Ngilgi and Lake Cave. A Wadandi cultural custodian, Josh shares his art, culture and stories on his Koomal Dreaming tours, based at Ngilgi Cave and Cape Naturaliste.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 10
It’s rustic food with flair – a playground for me as a chef. Daniel Schoenmakers, The Scullery
The Goose Southcamp Normal Van

Crafting premium wine on our family vineyard since 1975

Gralyn Estate have been quiet pioneers of aged port styles for over forty years, alongside highly regarded expressions of regional cornerstones, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Artizan Rare Muscat Wine of the Year London Wine Competition

Gralyn Estate’s sought-after vintages are exclusively available from our cellar door and through our online store.

4145 Caves Road, Wilyabrup |

Open Daily 10.30am - 4.30pm | Tastings | Sales | Experiences
gralyn.com.au

Spring and Summer is prime party time across the Margaret River Region. Book festival tickets and stays in advance. Sign up for the monthly What’s On send-out for the most up-todate event information.

WHAT’S

on

Cape to Cape MTB // 19 – 22 October

From Cape Leeuwin to Cape Naturaliste, this epic ride takes you along the coast through forest and farmland, and finishes each day at the region’s brillliant breweries and wineries. capetocapemtb.com

NOVEMBER

Eagle Bay Epic Adventure Race // 4 November

The ultimate off-road adventure race which starts and finishes at Eagle Bay Brewery. Courses for every age and ability. eaglebayepic.rapidascent.com.au

SEPTEMBER

Margaret River Region Open Studios // 9 – 24 September

Over 150 artists, artisans, galleries, sheds, and home studios have their doors fling open for 16 days allowing visitors to meet the creator of the art and purchase original works. This event won Gold at the 2022 WA Tourism Awards in the Festival & Events category and celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. mrropenstudios.com.au

OCTOBER

Strings Attached Festival // 6 – 8 October

Guitar makers, players, enthusiasts, and collectors unite for exhibitions, performances, masterclasses, and workshops strung out over three epic days. Expect big things for the 2023 festival! waguitarfestival.com.au

Fine Vines Festival // 20 – 29 October

Fine Vines brings together more than 30 unique wine experiences over 10 days to celebrate the people, passion, and places that make the Margaret River Region the renowned winemaking region it is. finevinesfestival.com.au

Geo Bay Cool Water Classic // 11 November

Geographe Bay is home to WA’s newest open water endurance event. Swim 20km of pristine waters between Dunsborough and Busso Jetty or offer your support at one of the beach parties along the course. geobayswim.com.au

Perth International Jazz Festival - On Tour

// 11 – 12 November

Enjoy some of Australia’s finest Jazz performers by the Jetty, in a vineyard and even inside a cave, when PIJF hits the road as part of its regional southwest tour. perthjazzfest.com

DECEMBER

Yallingup Malibu Classic // 2 – 3 December Margs might have the Pro, but Yalls is home to

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 12
Scan the QR code for more events: Yallingup Malibu Classic Fine Vines Festival Busselton Jetty Swim

the iconic Yallingup Malibu-Longboard Classic, WA’s premier longboarding contest. facebook.com/yallingupmalibuclassic

Ironman WA // 3 December

A world-class event popular with athletes and spectators. Smaller events are also running over the weekend. ironman.com/im-western-australia

JANUARY

Festival of Busselton // All January

A program packed full of free family events and activities in the Busselton CBD and foreshore. festivalofbusselton.com.au

Karnidale Circus Festival // 19 – 20 January

A weird and wonderful line-up of circus, comedy and magic with live music, bars and onsite camping. lunarcircus.com/the-festival

FEBRUARY

Busselton Jetty Swim // 10 – 11 February

A WA premier sporting event open to novices, professionals, and swimmers with disabilities. busseltonjettyswim.org.au

South West Craft Beer Festival // 17 February

A wonderful excuse to sip and savour craft beers, taste enticing cuisine and hear local music on the Busselton foreshore. swbeerfest.com.au

MARCH

Dunsborough Arts Festival // 1 - 4 March

An annual celebration of free evening concerts and arts markets plus the muchloved Sculptures by the Bay.

Augusta River Festival // 3 March

Held each year on the Labour Day long weekend. Includes the Blackwood regatta, fireworks, market stalls, and live entertainment for the whole family. augustariverfestival.com.au

Undalup Bunuru Festival // 9 March

A celebration of the South West’s rich Aboriginal cultural heritage, our beautiful country and pristine environment. Includes workshops, cultural dance performances and entertainment by Indigenous artists.

Outdoor movies

Run throughout the spring and summer months with programming suited to children and adults. Movies at Cape Mentelle: capementelle.com.au Lentedal Outdoor Movies: lentedalwine.com.au

designs in nature

designs in nature

jewellery designed and handmade in Margaret River

jewellery designed and handmade in Margaret River

Mon - Sat, 10am - 4pm 611 Boodjidup Road 08 9757 6885

info@payetgallery.com.au

www.payetgallery.com.au

Mon - Sat, 10am - 4pm 611 Boodjidup Road 08 9757 6885 info@payetgallery.com.au www.payetgallery.com.au

13
Augusta River Festival Strings Attached Karnidale Circus Festival

BEST FAMILY FRIENDLY BEACHES

The Margaret River Region is home to some of the most famous and stunning beaches on earth.

Many world class events are held here including fishing, surfing, swimming, triathlon and boating competitions. There are also some beautiful and unique places to go diving and snorkelling in the area.

If it’s clean, clear, and calm family friendly swimming beaches you’re after, you’re spoiled for choice.

Bunker Bay, Dunsborough

Bunker Bay is a stunning piece of coastline just outside of Dunsborough.

The long stretch of beach is strikingly beautiful with pearly white sands and turquoise blue clear water framed by rugged green bushland. Most of the time Bunker Bay is shallow and calm but it can get rough in certain conditions, so during the summer months there are surf life savers patrolling the beach. For your safety, always swim between the flags.

Point Picquet, Dunsborough

Point Picquet is located between Eagle Bay and Meelup Beach, and reveals itself in summer when the tides change and the white sand reappears. The water is a pure turquoise blue, contrasting with the burnt red rocks on the shore, and in-between, there are plenty of places to lie and contemplate life.

Busselton Foreshore, Busselton

One of the ultimate family friendly destinations to go swimming in the Margaret River Region is at the Busselton foreshore. During the warmer months the beach is shallow, clear and calm –almost like glass.

At the beach there is a little jetty with ladders, which people like to walk along or jump off. It is on the left-hand side of the iconic Busselton Jetty and Underwater Observatory.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 14
GUIDE TO:
WORDS | Jacinta Keeble

Aquatastic, a big inflatable water playground, can often be found further up along the beach on the left-hand side of both jetties during summer school holidays. For more floating fun on the foreshore, rent a stand up paddle board at SUP Life Busselton, or head out on a boat with Adventure Sailing

on Leeuwin Road but it can be a bit hard to find, keep your eyes peeled for the sign that is roughly painted on one of the barriers in the car park. Even when the weather is windy and other beaches are a bit rough, you can count on Granny’s Pool to still be no more than waistdeep and calm.

Hamelin Bay, Karridale

REST, RELAX, RECONNECT

Centrally located in the world-class wine region of Margaret River, Forest Rise Chalets & Lodge has earned its place as an award-winning escape for those seeking the very best in secluded accommodation.

Romantic, secluded couples’ retreat in self-contained chalets with candlelit sky-view spas, kingsized beds and tranquil forest outlooks, on 240 acres of natural beauty.

Secluded, quiet, and peaceful, the crucial ingredients for your next well-deserved getaway. Book Direct and enjoy our Spring Special.

Rest - Relax - Reconnect this Spring at Forest Rise

Day Caravan Park

The whole family, including any furry family members (read: pets), can stay within a stone’s throw from the glassy water by holidaying at affordable Busselton Lazy

Cowaramup Bay, Gracetown

Nestled in the peaceful coastal community of Gracetown lies the tranquil Cowaramup Bay. The beach in the bay is calm and quite sheltered from strong winds, making it a popular swimming place for families with kids and/or dogs. Cowaramup Bay is a great place to go snorkelling and it also has a pontoon a few meters off the shore. Further out you can find large swell and some legendary surf breaks, and the lookout is a great place to sit and watch the surfers.

Flinders Bay, Augusta

Located a few minutes’ drive from the Augusta is the picturesque Flinders Bay. It has a grassed area over-looking the water with a playground, swing set, BBQ facilities, picnic tables, seating and public toilets.

The tranquil lagoon below is crystal clear and has a small jetty with stairs that takes you directly into shallow water.

It is not only a fantastic place for kids to go swimming; you will also often see people at Flinders Bay swimming laps and stand up paddle boarding, too.

Granny’s Pool, Augusta

Just around the corner from Flinders Bay in Augusta, you will find Granny’s Pool. It is located

One of the best hidden gems is Hamelin Bay. On the left-hand side of the boat ramp there are the sculpture-like remains of the Hamelin Bay Jetty and on the right-hand side is a long stretch of white sandy beach and crystal blue water. The real treasure is in the shallow waters surrounding the boat ramp: beautiful and wild Eagle Rays. Just keep in mind that they are wild animals and a protected species; Hamelin Bay is a sanctuary zone for these beautiful creatures and there are big penalties for people

WWW.FORESTRISE.COM.AU WWW.FORESTRISE.COM.AU
Granny’s Pool, Augusta

that deliberately try to catch or injure them. Never touch or feed wild animals and keep at least 3 meters away.

Overlooking the picturesque Hamelin Bay is Hamelin Bay Holiday Park: a little piece of paradise with accommodation from camp and caravan sites to cabins and cottages.

Meelup Beach, Dunsborough

There’s just something special about Meelup Beach.

Meelup Beach is a rare and beautiful treasure because it is located in a bio-diversity hotspot (Meelup Regional Park), and it faces northeast which protects it from the wind allowing dense bushland, huge trees and grass to grow right down to the water’s edge in some areas.

There are also public toilets, showers and BBQ facilities overlooking the water. During the warmer months surf lifesavers patrol the area and you can usually find a good food truck

or two in the carpark. Another great familyfriendly option for a meal is Eagle Bay Brewing Co, located just a stone’s throw from the beach.

Yallingup Beach, Yallingup

Magical Yallingup is one of the most spectacular places in the region. There’s a moment when you will drive alongside the beautiful bushland and you will turn a corner, and all of a sudden you will see Yallingup’s glittering ocean. It’s sure to make your heart surge every time.

The Yallingup Nature Based Playground

overlooking the beach is not only fun and interactive but beautifully made to compliment the surroundings. There is a shaded grassed area next to the playground with picnic tables and on the other side of the beach staircase, there are public toilets and showers.

Yallingup Beach is not only a famous surfers’ paradise, it also has a stunning calm lagoon which is perfect for swimming and snorkelling.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 16
Summer equals ice cream. Kids (and adults) will be all smiles at Simmo’s Ice Creamery in Quindalup, and Millers Ice Creamery in Cowaramup. Busselton Foreshore Bunker Bay Meelup Beach Yallingup Beach

10:30am saturday. the meeting is in session.

It’s holiday time and the gang is back together. Your parents are busy poring over maps, trying to determine whether to visit a brewery or winery next. Urgent action is needed to present them with an alternative itinerary. The ideas are coming thick and fast. The maze. The caves. Kayaking on the river. Going fishing. Beach cricket. Anything but bushwalking. For holiday planning, there’s no place like Dôme.

domecoffees.com

17
bcells50099
Perth Metro,WA Regional: Albany, Bunbury, Busselton, Dunsborough, Esperance, Geraldton, Katanning, Kalgoorlie, Newman, Northam, Port Hedland, Rottnest

Farm Foraging in Margaret River

There’s something satisfying about sitting down at the table and not only understanding the journey of the meal in front of you, but also knowing you’ve played an active role in it reaching your plate. You could say it’s instinctive. As humans, we’ve been foraging for food from the very beginning, as hunter-gatherer societies before transitioning to farming communities.

In terms of farm foraging experiences in the Margaret River Region, here’s our pick of the bunch.

Forage Safaris

Jan Stewart is what you might call an expert farm forager. Growing up on a beef, cotton and maize farm in Zimbabwe, Jan’s love of the land was nurtured from a young age before she turned her attention to tourism, working in the African safari industry before making her way to Australia.

Continuing to work as an international travel agent in the South West, it wasn’t until the end of 2020 that she combined two of her

greatest loves.

“Covid gave me the chance to develop what I saw as a gap in the local market and test out the foraging tours,” Jan says. “During that time, people were excited to get out, visit local farms, and learn how to reconnect to the land.”

Specialising in small, all-inclusive experiences within her network of over 200 producers in the region, Jan tailors her tours to her guests’ special interests and needs.

“I love taking the back roads to some of the smaller cellar doors and producers,” Jan says. “I think it’s important for people to see where their food comes from and understand the value of it.”

While full and half day tours might have you participating in truffle farm walks, listening to abalone diving talks, or tasting and picking your way through orchards and groves – such as those at Chestnut Brae or Whirlwind Olives –Forage Safaris’ new Sunset Wine Experience will see you strolling through vineyards with a

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 18
YOUR GUIDE TO
There’s a growing number of locals who are passionate about producing food sustainably, opening farm gates to give visitors a behind-the-scenes taste.
Forage Safaris
WORDS | Bonita Grima

winemaker, and enjoying a gourmet picnic at a boutique cellar door.

Burnside Organic Farm

Lara and Jamie McCall’s sustainable living dream began 25 years ago when they moved to Margaret River to start a family and set up Burnside Organic Farm. Today their adult sons are also involved in the mixed business which includes an organic farm, winery and luxury farm stay accommodation.

“Being self-sufficient and living sustainably has always been important to us,” Lara says. “Jamie’s family had a little farm near Perth and I grew up with a Polish mother who was always growing and fermenting things, so we wanted our children to experience that too.”

The McCalls invite others to share in that

lifestyle also, with the property containing two luxury style bungalows for guests to stay and experience everything the certified biodynamic farm and vineyard has to offer, including guided walks through the farm’s market gardens and avocado orchard, organic wine tastings, animal viewings, and foraging for fruit, herbs and vegetables for use in the evening meal.

“Kids especially love the garden. We have produce like Mexican cucumbers, apples and cherry guavas for them to fill their buckets with or eat on the spot,” Lara says.

But of course, it’s not just children that get a buzz out of foraging. Lara says adults who’ve lost their connection with food and seasonality often find the inspiration and knowledge they need while staying with them.

“People want to learn more so they can grow their own and we can provide that knowledge, with everything from starting a worm farm to the responsible recycling of waste,” she says. “We get them thinking about the bigger picture too – about food miles and how buying local, seasonal food, and supporting ethical farming practices ensures a more sustainable future.”

Fair Harvest

Just 4km from Margaret River’s town centre, Fair Harvest is not only an award-winning permaculture farm, but also an ecocampground, events space, café and outdoor classroom. But most importantly, for Jodie Lane and partner Dorothee Perez, Fair Harvest is a labour of love.

Purchased by Jodie’s parents back in 1987, the farm sits on 160-hectares of ex-dairy country that was once karri and jarrah forest.

19 177 Gale Rd, Metricup, WA 6280 beerfarm.com Open Daily from 11am For kitchen hours head to A brewery unified in the belief of doing things differently.
Burnside Organic Farm Forage Safaris

Rehabilitating the land ever since, the tireless efforts of Jodie, her family, and community of like-minded environmental activists, has resulted in its success.

“Permaculture is not only about caring for the earth, it’s about caring for ourselves and each other,” says Jodie. “Over the years, we’ve endeavoured to create a living experience where guests can both observe and be part of the systems we’ve put in place.”

Whether that’s participating in a course or retreat, helping at harvest, joining a cooking class, or camping at Fair Harvest’s campsite, Jodie says there’s plenty for visitors to do.

“People are welcome to use our composting systems, eat our home-grown produce, walk in the forest, or just relax and enjoy the farm,” she says.

Glenarty Road

This fifth-generation farm in Karridale, run by Ben McDonald and wife, Sasha, not only boasts what’s considered to be one of the country’s best paddock-to-plate restaurants – it also provides some of the finest farm foraging experiences in the Margaret River Region.

Glenarty Road’s Forage on the Farm and Vino in the Vines invites you to journey through the vineyard, and macadamia, hops

and vegetable gardens of the regenerative farm – foraging for food and spotting roaming sheep and pigs as you go. As well as tasting up to 10 wines at the source, a four-course feast comprising of seasonal produce, house-made charcuterie, farm snacks, and fresh bread is provided as you learn the farm’s history. Alternatively, dig around Glenarty Road’s kitchen garden with the Where Good Things Grow experience, to discover how to start your own garden, before being guided through the cellar door’s small-batch wines, accompanied by a selection of house-made cheeses and food foraged fresh from the farm.

Permaculture is not only about caring for the earth, it’s about caring for ourselves and each other Jodie Lane, Fair Harvest
Glenarty Road Fair Harvest
1 9/8/2023 9:12
Cape Lodge - Tales & Trails 103x230mm Press BLEED Art 3.pdf
am
21 www.shelterbrewing.com.au shelterbrewingco

Busselton Jetty’s Underwater Sculpture Trail and Artificial Reef: Embracing Art and Biodiversity

You may have heard of sculptures by the sea, but what about sculptures under the sea?

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 22

The new Busselton Jetty Underwater Sculpture Trail and Artificial Reef links marine conservation with the arts, in a celebration of storytelling and marine biodiversity.

Let’s take a dive and check out what’s beneath the surface of this exciting new installation.

Busselton

Jetty Facts

• The Busselton Jetty is the southern hemisphere’s longest timber-pile jetty, located on Wadandi Boodja where the Wadandi (Saltwater) people have had close spiritual links to the ocean, for thousands of years.

• The iconic 1.8 km jetty has been named one of Australia’s top ten shore dive sites due to its diverse marine life - over 300 marine species, including green sea turtles, live in the pristine waters of Geographe Bay.

• Following a fire in 1999 that destroyed 70 metres of the north end of the jetty, burnt piles were removed as part of the refurbishment in 2011.

• Removing the old piles reduced the functional marine habitat and availability of food for fish, so creating an artificial reef to restore the ecosystems was the perfect solution.

23 Vasse Felix 1/2 H MARGARET RIVER’S FOUNDING WINE ESTATE TASTING BAR - WINE LOUNGE - RESTAURANT - MUSEUM - ART GALLERY - TOURS Caves Road (Cnr Tom Cullity Drive), Cowaramup WA 6284 Phone 9756 5000 Restaurant Reservations 9756 5050 OPEN DAILY 10AM - 5PM
Below: White Barred Boxfish at Busselton Jetty. This colourful male was curious about his own reflection in Brian Hoehn’s camera.

Artificial Reef

In 2018, Environmental Manager Sophie Teede, and the team at Busselton Jetty began research into building an artificial reef to provide marine vertebrates and invertebrates with functional habitat where natural reefs no longer exist.

The decision to have artists create underwater sculptures to form the reef was made early in the planning process. When we chatted with Sophie, she said the artificial reef was first and foremost an environmental enhancement and “including artists turned out to be a fantastic decision in terms of the project outcomes and being able to not only achieve the benefits for the environment, but also contribute back to our immediate community, especially the arts community.”

Getting Artists Onboard

The response to expressions of interest from artists was amazing, with over 60 artists submitting ideas Australia-wide. The 25 shortlisted artists, chosen for their experience in creating outdoor artwork, submitted detailed plans that were presented to a panel. Unfortunately, they only had a permit for 13 artworks and chose the final 12 artists from Perth and the South West of Western Australia.

The sculptures, designed to have a lifespan of 30+ years, are constructed from various chemically stable materials, including concrete, bronze, steel and ceramics. Sophie says the materials were chosen to be durable while benefiting the marine habitat. For example, when steel breaks down it provides marine life with iron, a part of their dietary needs.

The Underwater Sculpture

Trail and Artificial Reef is an immersive experience for anyone who likes to dive, snorkel or swim in the bay.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 24
Clockwise from above: Old wives and marine life at Busselton Jetty; “Occy” by Daniel Fisher; Blue ringed octopus, Geographe Bay; Common (weedy) sea dragon
25 OPEN 7 DAYS 10:00am - 5:00pm 248 Tom Cullity Drive, Cowaramup www.bettenaysmargaretriver.com.au 08 97555539 PREMIUM TASTINGS FROM BETTENAY'S SINGLE VINEYARD WINERY. PLUS HOME TO MARGARET RIVER NOUGAT AND LIQUEURS To find us NOW OFFERING Casual dining by the lake ******* Vineyard share boards, li g h t b i tes & s w e e t t r e a t s
The Mermaid’s Muse by Daniel Fisher

Over the past three years, the environmental team at Busselton Jetty has worked with the artists to complete and install the underwater sculptures on the seabed (8m below the surface) at the northern end of the jetty. The biggest sculpture in the collection is a life-sized southern right whale!

Marine Tourism

Marine scientist Sophie Teede has seen many changes in her 12 years working at the jetty, five of those years as Environmental Manager. Sophie said the project aims to connect to the public through marine tourism and environmental conservation initiatives. She hopes the project “helps people to become better stewards and develop knowledge about their marine environment because WA’s oceans are pretty unique, and the jetty is quite a safe place to be able to experience that.”

Significant Marine Species

Geographe Bay and the surrounding waters of Busselton Jetty accommodate several marine creatures of national significance. Species include

loggerhead, green and leatherback turtles, weedy sea dragon, and widebody pipefish. Geographe Bay is also a known path for migratory cetaceans, including humpback whales and endangered southern right and blue whales. The artificial reef will provide a habitat and food for the significant species while also catering to the local marine life. According to the Busselton Jetty Fish Finder, sea stars, nudibranchs, octopuses, sharks, rays, and dolphins are common in this part of the world.

How Can I Experience the Artificial Reef?

The Underwater Sculpture Trail and Artificial Reef is an immersive experience for anyone who likes to dive, snorkel or swim in the bay.

While those unable to access the water or who prefer to stay on land, can view some of the sculptures and marine life from a jetty platform. You can walk or swim to the end of the jetty, or jump aboard the Stocker Preston Express, an electric solar-powered train.

While you’re there, join a tour of the Underwater Observatory, which is one of only six in the world.

Jetty Day Passes, Train tickets and Underwater Observatory Tour tickets can be purchased from the Interpretive Centre and Museum situated at the beginning of the Jetty. Then as the sun sets in Geographe Bay, finish the day with a refreshing brew and bite at Shelter Brewing Co. overlooking the Jetty.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 26
Top left: The Postmaster by Georgia Zoric. Top right: Marine wildlife at Busselton Jetty Right: Southern fiddler ray, Geographe Bay
27 Visit our website to book summerstar.com.au
Riverview Tourist Park Margaret River Riverview Tourist Park Margaret River Tourist Park Busselton Lazy Days Caravan Park Riverview Tourist Park Busselton Lazy Days Caravan Park Margaret River Tourist Park Perth (270kms) Walpole (250kms)

Ancient Wonders

Above and Below Ground 28

Ancient Lands Experience at Ngilgi Cave is an immersive journey through native bushland, which traces the 600-million-year evolution of this unique land that now forms the southwest Capes, from Naturaliste in the north to Leeuwin in the south.

The goal of the new experience is ambitiousto tell the story of millions of years of geological transformations, evolving vegetation, and the intricate formations of the magnificent caves located below the coastal ridge of limestone. Local not-for-profit tourism operator, Capes Foundation, is behind the project, and here the team shares insights into the process of taking on a project of such scale.

During the design process, Assets & Environment Manager, Mark Delane dedicated extensive time to connecting with the ancient landscape, with the aim of allowing nature to be the guide. “My goal was to capture the inherent beauty of the site and create an environment where visitors can fully connect with what makes it special.”

“I spent countless hours immersed in the

bush, sitting in stillness, listening to the sounds of nature, and envisioning the layout and what visitors might be able to experience here.”

The resulting experience unfolds via a boardwalk which gracefully meanders through the bushland, mirroring the underground pathways that visitors follow below ground inside the cave.

Interactive installations stationed throughout the journey provide a sense of discovery and adventure, allowing the whole family to explore at their own pace. Some visitors will gravitate towards the limestone cave simulation, pumping water by hand to create rainfall and tracing the waterdrops as they cascade into the model cave. Others may choose to delve deeper into the cave’s fascinating history following the abundant interpretive signs that narrate its story.

One surprise that will catch most off-guard is the sudden revelation of how close you are to the ocean, as a glimpse of the coastline appears unexpectedly behind one of the many bends. Wherever you find yourself, you get the

ENJOY A TASTE OF MARGARET RIVER’S FINEST

We invite you to join us for a tasting, among some of the oldest vines in Margaret River, at our famous Redbrook vineyard.

OPEN EVERY DAY 10.30AM – 5PM CORNER CAVES & METRICUP ROADS WILYABRUP, MARGARET RIVER, WA

Mention this ad for your COMPLIMENTARY glass of wine. (To the value of $10)

We have also partnered with a local platter company, The Art of Grazing, offering you the perfect accompaniment to your wine tasting experience. Simply pre-order your gourmet platter and it will be waiting for you at our cellar door (24 hrs notice required).

EVANSANDTATE.WINE PHONE 08 9755 6244
INFORMATION WINE & CHEESE
SCAN FOR FURTHER
Set above-ground at the site of the historic Ngilgi Cave, Ancient Lands Experience takes visitors on a journey to discover 600 million years of stories associated with the land and its people.

feeling that you are being invited to pause, breathe, and take it all in, before continuing your journey to the next discovery.

Tod Kearns, who has been a guide at Ngilgi Cave for 12 years and now manages the site, has witnessed the gradual progress of this project, which has been seven years in the making. Reflecting on the visitor experience, he expresses, “It was important to us to ensure that Ancient Lands was accessible to everyone, including people in wheelchairs, families with prams and those who may not feel comfortable underground. The result is that all visitors, irrespective of their abilities, can now have an awe-inspiring experience of being immersed in the bushland.”

As visitors reach the midway point of the Ancient Lands Experience, it is time to venture underground. Ngilgi Cave is still at the heart of the experience, enhanced by each of the thoughtfully curated elements encountered along the above-ground journey.

Beyond the cave, interactive features invite

visitors to play and experiment. Cave models and 3D imagery simulate the underground experience, while bird song samples and animal tracks add deeper context to this beautiful habitat and its diverse array of resident species. Informative signs offer a glimpse into the rich heritage and significant role that Ngilgi Cave, along with its surrounding historical landmarks have played in shaping the region’s development and its enduring appeal to visitors worldwide.

Sustainability, minimal interference with nature and the use of recycled materials have been a common thread through the construction process. As Tod highlights, this echoes the core values of the Capes Foundation. “The Ngligi Cave site has been entrusted in our care in perpetuity, and it’s our job to conserve it for future generations. We wanted to honour that with the construction of this new experience, and investment into solar technology and retaining water from the roof significantly reduces our carbon footprint.”

One notable highlight of the experience is a display that showcases the profound connections of the Wadandi people, the Traditional Owners of the land, and their ancestral ties to the region. Centred around their traditional six-season calendar, the educational plates beautifully illuminate the traditional Wadandi way of life and their intimate connection to the land throughout the year.

Wadandi custodian, Josh Whiteland operates his Aboriginal tourism business, Koomal Dreaming, from the Ngilgi Cave site, offering separate bookings for captivating experiences that provide insights into a culture spanning over 60,000 years.

The journey finishes how arguably any adventure should: playtime. A beautifully constructed nature playground invites visitors to engage with loved ones and nature itself. Let your imagination wander, bask in the gentle sunlight filtering through the trees, and reflect on the amazing wonders you encountered above and below ground.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 30
Ngilgi Cave is exquisitely decorated with stalactites, stalagmites, helictites and coloured shawls.

Consistently Awarded. Highly Regarded.

Winner of Best Value Winery Halliday Wine Companion 2023

World’s Best Cabernet Decanter World Wine Awards 2022

Number One Australian Wine James Suckling 2022, Reserve Chardonnay

Jimmy Watson Trophy Winner Best Young Red Wine, Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Winner of Best Cabernet Sauvignon Halliday Wine Companion 2020, 99 points

Max Schubert Trophy x 2 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Visit

31
our cellar door and mention this ad for your COMPLIMENTARY tasting.
cellar
is located at 889 Commonage Road, Yallingup.
Our
door

We are all about celebrating all things Eagle Bay and beyond. Working and playing in WA’s epic outdoor backyard. Chasing sunsets in the south west and bonding over good food, good wine and good beer with friends. Our XPA is your perfect summertime companion. Hazy, juicy and only 3.5% ABV.

eaglebaybrewing.com.au

Eagle Bay Brewing Co is a family owned and operated brewery, open 7 days a week, 11am – 5pm. Bookings can be made online or you can contact us on (08) 9755 3554. Limited space for walk ins available. 252 Eagle Bay Rd, Eagle Bay WA 6281.

@eaglebaybrewingco eaglebaybrewingco

33

MARGARET RIVER & COWARAMUP

Best Breakfasts

These two towns serve more than just amazing waves and wines. Here’s your ultimate guide to the best breakfasts in Margaret River and Cowaramup.

The Margaret River Region has got it all from breathtaking beaches to iconic wineries and stellar surf. With so many activities and adventures at your fingertips, you’ll need a good solid feed each morning to fuel your fun. The good news is that with the epic line-up of cafés and coffee shops dotted around Margaret River and Cowaramup, this coastal hotspot has got you sorted.

With its delicious specialty coffee and killer bagels, Sidekick has got the early AM goods. Whether wandering through the centre of town or popping into IGA for a shop, Sidekick is the perfect spot to grab a quick coffee on the go. Pair that cup of joe with a savoury muffin or almond orange slice. This cool café has got java even the pickiest of coffee snobs will love, not to mention the famed The Holy Bagel Co bagels. Opt for the Everything bagel with jalapeno cream cheese for a spicy way to start your day.

Smack dab in the middle of main street, Riversmith is an open and bright eatery specialising in scrumptious breakfast and brunch, served up 7 days a week. With plenty of tables and lots of space, this is the perfect place to bring the whole crew. With savoury staples like Poached Eggs & Bacon and Tomato Shakshuka as well as a cabinet full of homemade delicacies, Riversmith is the ultimate place to kick off your weekend. Plus, the central location makes it ideal for sitting back and watching the world go by.

You can’t miss Drift Café, a cosy breakfast spot set just off the main drag in the converted Old Shire Library on Willmott Ave. Partly

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 34
Drift Café White Elephant Riversmith WORDS | Maddy Lyons

because it’s got a bright yellow exterior, but mainly because it serves up some seriously delicious food in a homey, casual setting. With a healthy and wholesome menu, there is something for everyone, even fitness fanatics and health nuts. The menu covers breakfast classics like Eggs Florentine and Avocado Toast, as well as epic vegan and paleo options. This café pulls out all the stops to make sure anyone who walks through the door can have a yummy, balanced breaky.

Head to where all the sporty types grab some morning grub, The Hairy Marron

35
Sidekick Hairy Marron Scan for more *T&Cs apply. 1. Promotion Code 211182 must be quoted at the time of reservation. 2. Offer available only for rentals commencing between 1st September 2023 and 29th of February 2024, unless sold out 3. Offer available at Busselton Airport and Busselton DT locations. 4. Minimum rental period of [1] consecutive days applies, with a maximum of [15%] off Time & Kilometre Charges only, for a Maximum rental period of [28] consecutive days. 5. Rental days are based on a twenty-four (24) hour period. 6. A fifty-nine (59) minute grace period is allowed for returns. Returns outside the grace period will be charged up to an extra day rental fee. 7. Offer excludes taxes, fees, optional products and services, fuel, additional charges such as airport taxes and sundry fees and the GST that applies to these charges. 8. This offer may not be combined with any other offer, discount promotion, special offer or coupon. 9. Offer is not applicable on pay now, contract, tours, government or insurance replacement rentals. 10. Offer applies in Australia to all vehicle groups . All vehicles are subject to availability at time of booking. 11. Hertz standard terms and conditions, driver, rental and credit qualifications in effect at the time and place of rental apply. 12. Age requirements vary dependent on vehicle reserved. 13. Vehicle models may differ and specifications may vary by location. Vehicles can be reserved by car group only and not by particular car model or colour. Fleet subject to change without notice. 14. One way rentals are available between selected locations. Blackout periods may apply please check at time of Reservation 15. Special conditions may apply. Promotional terms and conditions subject to change without notice.
The 15% Off* Base Rate of the Day

baked

and some savoury treats. If you are looking to rent a bike for the day, you can grab your rentals after a coffee and then hit the tracks for an action-packed day. The folks in the shop have all the best recommendations as well as trail maps.

Stroll to the Margaret River Farmer’s Market on a Saturday morning to peruse the stalls showcasing all the best local farmers, producers, and bakers. With the Local Squeeze’s fresh juices, Claudio Biscotti’s Italian treats, Harlequin Desserts’ delicious doughnuts, plus a few less conventional breakfast options like Má Là’s mouth-watering dumplings or Mario’s Garden Produce’s giant, cheese-filled arancini balls, there is plenty to choose from.

Missed the Saturday market? Check out Blue Ginger Fine Foods & Cafe for a gourmet breakfast. Then browse the local and international treats and treasures that fill the shelves.

Feeling peckish after an early morning swim at Gnarabup? Head to the newly renovated White Elephant for a Brekkie Burger or Spanish Eggs with some of the best views in the region. Sit outside on the terrace, perched right where the sand meets the sea and sip coffee while taking in the beautiful scenery and fresh ocean air. Speaking of breakfast views, a stone’s throw from Gnarabup you’ll find The Sea Garden Café, strategically located high up on the ridge, marked by its iconic surfboard fence and Indian Ocean vistas. They’re one of the only licensed venues in Margaret River with ocean views, so we say: bring on the mimosas!

Gourmet Food Merchant is Cowaramup’s very own hidden gem for all things fine foods. This gorgeous shop has all manner of gourmet fare, gifts, and local treasures that run the gambit from chutneys to ceramics, to homewares. While you shop, indulge in a freshly brewed coffee adorned with a flourish of latte art. If you are hungry, opt for a breakie toastie or delicious homemade cake.

For a berry-packed brunch that all members of the family will enjoy, head to The Berry Farm in Rosa Brook. A kid’s paradise, The Berry Farm has a dedicated children’s menu, playgrounds galore, berry-picking, and cuddly farm

animals. The menu features all the freshest produce topped with homemade berry-filled condiments. For those with a sweet tooth, try the Buttermilk Pancakes, Boysenberry Pie or Adult Ice Cream with Berry Farm Liqueur. Those looking for a savoury start to the day opt for a Sausage Roll, Seasonal Vegetable Tart or the famous Beef and Red Wine Pie. Unequivocally the most important meal, breakfast is hands down the best way to jump-start your day. With this stellar line up of AM options, you can be sure to make the most out of your morning meal in the Margaret River Region.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 36
Located right beside Rotary Park, at the intersection of the region’s most spectacular trails, it offers house-made cakes, freshly muffins,
Unequivocally the most important meal, breakfast is hands down the best way to jump-start your day.
The Berry Farm Margaret River Farmer’s Market Gourmet Food Merchants
37 A Private Properties holiday home provides the perfect setting for families and loved ones to enjoy some downtime. From pre-arrival planning, to inspiration on what to do, together, we'll make sure you have a holiday that’s unique to you. www.privateproperties.com.au The perfect holiday does exist. Private Properties
1994
Since
Serene Shores, Eagle Bay

Ellensbrook on Mokidup – A sacred site

38
Down a winding road in Mokidup on Wadandi Boodja within the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park stands what has been called since 1857 Ellensbrook homestead. This is known to the Wadandi people as Meekadariby, the name given to the place “Where the Moon Bathes”.
WORDS | Wadandi Pibulmun WRITER | Sharnae Watson

For thousands of years the Wadandi people used Mokidup as a summer camping ground, using the spring fed brook and the soak as a source of water which later became relied upon by Ellen and Alfred Bussell for their domestic use and for their gardens and cattle farming.

In 1857 Alfred and Ellen Bussell decided that because of the fresh water and fertile soils, this would be the perfect location for their home and ideal for farming beef and dairy cattle. With the help of the local Wadandi people and the Bussell servants, the Ellensbrook homestead was built.

Ellen’s daughters Edith and Franny Bussell

lived and managed the farm from 1898 to 1917 and in 1899 Edith Bussell opened her ‘Ellenbrook Farm Home’ for Aboriginal children which ran for 17 years.

Working for the Bussells were Wadandi people Samuel Yebble Isaacs, Ngilgi, Nannup, Janie Lowe, David Nannup, Edican, Lizzie Fisher, Jimmie (Jemmy), Ralph and George Long.

Samuel Yebble Isaacs has great ties to the history of this area, living at Ellensbrook through his teens into young adulthood when he then moved to Wall Cliff house and worked as a stockman. While he was working as a stock man in December 1876, he discovered the sinking SS Georgette (Steam Ship). Along

Set amongst vines and native bushland, Howard Park Cellar Door offers the perfect backdrop to enjoy a range of luxury wine experiences.

Taste wines from Margaret River and Great Southern paired with a local, gourmet platter or book ahead for an in-depth seated wine experience.

Whether you are beginning your wine journey or you’re already a true connoisseur, discover the power, poise and purity of Howard Park Wines.

Open daily from 10am-5pm

Scan to discover what’s on at the Cellar Door

39
543 Miamup Road, Cowaramup
Left: Ellensbrook Homestead

with Grace Bussell’s help they were able to save people who were aboard the ship, and for this he received 100 hectares of land and received the bronze medallion for bravery from The Royal Humane Society.

In more recent times there has been a change to acknowledge his ties to the area such as Isaacs road, Yebble road, and since 2021 the locality Yebble is named after him which is spread near the hectares that he was awarded.

The area surrounding Ellensbrook homestead has archaeology dating back 12 thousand years to 17 thousand years, sharing so much throughout both Aboriginal and European history over this period.

We have been told through the generations many stories of significance to Wadandi history including the story of Waljin and her love for flowers and singing, which lead to the battle between Wolghine the Ocean Spirit who was jealous and wanted to keep Waljin in his sea cave, and Lilgi the Land Spirit who flow Waljin across the sky saving her from Wolghine creating a rainbow. It is said that you can see the footprints left by the spirits during the battle in the reef in front of the Ellensbrook homestead, just south of Wolghine’s cave.

As well as the history of Meekadariby, the story of Gnoocarnban and Ngorble. Gnoocarnban and Ngorble fell in love but they

The history is strong in Mokidup and at Ellensbrook homestead, with the stories being passed down throughout generations

were not promised to be married through lore and the skin group system.

Gnoocarnban feared the old man she was promised to, she said he had “Meel Karla Djedal” – eyes of fire coals. So, her and her love Ngorble ran away from the tribe. They ran up past the spring where they would hide away in a cave only coming out when the moon was full to hunt for their yongar (kangaroo) and collect meren (fruits and vegetables).

One day a clever old man came across the cave, when he returned, he told all the tribe that they were hiding there. That night when Ngorble went out hunting, the clever old man speared him through the koort (heart) ending Ngorble’s life.

The demma gnarnka (grandmothers) all dragged Gnoocarnban from the cave back to where the homestead now stands, where they began to prepare her for her marriage to the one she was promised to – the man with eyes of fire coals. The preparation for her marriage took many days, the old women worked Gnoocarnban so hard that one day she did not rise, and they say that her janga wiern (spirt dead) resides within the cave that her and the one she loved hid: “Where the Moon Bathes”, Meekadariby. It is said that around the cave, on nights of the full moon, you can hear her cry.

Ellensbrook homestead was donated to the

National Trust in 1979 and in 1984 the trust began a six-year program to restore the site and convert it into a museum. It was also added to the states register of heritage places in 2012 and in 2016 a Lotterywest grant allowed the homestead to have more restorations and the property was re-opened in February 2019. The history is strong in Mokidup and at Ellensbrook homestead, with the stories being passed down throughout generations. Not only are people now able to visit the homestead where they can find lots of its rich history shared throughout the building, but the local Wadandi people still utilise it and its surrounding area to educate younger generations of the great history of both Aboriginal and Europeans that walked on the Boodja of Mokidup.

Remember to respect and care for Boodja (Country) and in return Country will care for you.

Ellensbrook at Mokidup homestead is open Thursday to Saturday from 10am-4pm. On Sundays and public holidays there are tours at 10.30am. Grounds are open daily.

Visit nationaltrust.org.au/places/ ellensbrookfor more information.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 40
CAVES RD BREWPUB 4259 CAVE S RD, WILYABR UP CHEEKY HQ TAPHOUSE 44 COMMERCE RD, VASSE CHE EKY MONK EY .COM.A U

Regenerating Wadandi Boodja

The Margaret River Region is home to a community which, for generations, has nurtured a deep reverence for the land on which we live.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 42
WORDS | Taya Reid

Like a wine-making venture, the simultaneous appreciation and preservation of Wadandi Boodja is a matter of balance. The unique terroir is a jewel in Western Australia, and for this reason, admirers flock to enjoy the wonder of its delicate composition. Caring for it means walking the line between pleasure, intervention, and restraint. The well-intentioned adoration of any natural setting comes at a cost, resulting in death by a thousand individually invisible cuts, be they footprints, emissions, snapped saplings, plastic waste or any other traces we tend to leave, no matter how careful.

Gradually, and now with some momentum, our collective realisation has occurred.

Sustainability practices ingrained in Australian Indigenous culture, in fact the oldest known civilisation, for thousands of years, now has a modern name – regeneration. So, in the face of climate change and the ever-increasing tourism traffic, how do we ensure our jewel remains pristine while enjoying what’s on offer?

Winemaker Vanya Cullen’s parents paved the

way for an energetic pursuit of environmental preservation, and Vanya strives to maintain that legacy. The Cullens were instrumental in halting the bauxite mining and oil drilling threatening the coast between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin in the late 1960s. Since then, the family has progressed ahead of the curve in soil health science, pioneering organic agriculture in the region.

Today, Cullen Wines is a certified biodynamic, carbon neutral winery, and has offset its emissions since 2006 by funding and implementing the planting of trees. Vanya says, “Sustainability is everyone’s responsibility. Australia has lagged, but we are seeing now that neglect can be irreversible, so it’s begun to change in a positive way.” Vanya tells the story of the land in wine, with a mantra of giving back, rather than taking away from the abundant resources and beauty. Cullen wine is the product of the family’s deep reverence for the near-perfect maritime conditions the region offers.

Valuing nature as a number is a sentiment

43
Left: Drew McKenzie, Nature Conservation Margaret River Below and bottom: Cullen Wines

that echoes through conversations about sustainability in the region. Funding and resources are scarce, but a mindset shift to factor in the environment when crunching numbers is helping. Likewise, breaking down the seemingly insurmountable task of protecting the land and its treasures into practical, achievable goals is another way we’ve improved.

Drew McKenzie from Nature Conservation Margaret River Region is putting that

concept into practice with locals, organising and facilitating working groups so that those who want to help can do so in an effective and organised manner. Residents gather on beaches and in the national park, combining forces as a community to tackle the devastation of bushfire, human negligence, or environmental hazards.

An example of this targeted specificity is the battle against the arum lily, an introduced environmental weed Drew says is outcompeting the native understory, transforming the structural habitat with its dominance. “We now have 1500 land holders taking ownership on their own properties, while simultaneously working with the national park and the shire to create a coordinated response. It’s about creating a culture of custodianship.”

One of the emerging struggles Drew sees is the increased visitation of tourists in social media “go to” spots, hosting hundreds of visitors a day in places previously considered local secrets. The parking, pathway and facilities infrastructure is not in place to support the traffic, and with each photo-seeking traveller treading their own track to access the more remote vistas, there is a devastating toll. Together with a vast and porous national park – no official entry points or ticketing officesthe access all areas mentality is a distinct and contemporary problem.

To combat the illusion of an always pristine tourism landscape, the Capes Foundation have flipped their attitude to restoration and maintenance around the region’s caves. Where once such projects were hidden from public

view, the vacuuming and cleaning is now in plain sight, and conservation discourse is an integral part of the foundation’s communication strategy. Visibility serves as a reminder to the public that every dust particle, fibre and skin cell has an impact, and it takes careful work to reverse that.

With similar transparency, visitor dollars are being put to use by the Foundation in touristtangible ways, such as the Eagles Heritage’s birds of prey sanctuary, receiving and caring for injured and orphaned birds. Entry fees to the sanctuary are fed directly back into the care of the wildlife, with the ultimate goal of release back into the wild. Steve Harrison from the Capes Foundation says, “It shows a direct relationship between tourism and local conservation. It helps when people connect to a story and can relate to it through their enjoyment of nature.”

In order to tread lightly during your stay “down south”, it helps to have an environmentally conscious place to stay. Margaret River Retreat is one such offering, an eco-accredited glamping and chalet hideaway nestled on the edge of breathtaking national park. The owl-friendly retreat is in the heart of a wildlife corridor with two creek systems flowing to the Blackwood River. Wedgetail eagles, redtail cockatoos and possums frequent the organic, untouched land. There is a communal kitchen and recreation area, and plenty of space between the tents for privacy and tranquillity.

Owners Nick and Sonia Edwards apply best practice agricultural and waste management systems beyond the bottom line. Nick says not only are guests appreciative of being secure in the knowledge they are leaving a minimal footprint during their time in the region, but it’s also almost an expectation that accommodation providers will be conscious of that impact.

It seems clear that what has previously been an effort to maintain the quality of the natural environment of Wadandi Boodja has stepped up to a loftier goal – to improve upon it for the future. Like vine fruit left to display its own intrinsic qualities, with specialised nurture and care but minimal intervention, it is better equipped to age well and bloom.

For more sustainable travel tips, visit margaretriver.com/things-to-do/ sustainable-travel

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 44
Smiths Beach Wildlife at Mammoth Cave
@SWINGSYALLINGUP

Local Favourites

Simone Horgan

Vines, fine wine and family connect Leeuwin Estate’s Simone Horgan to the heart of Margaret River Region wine country.

There’s never a day when Simone Horgan isn’t thinking about what’s occurring and evolving within the Margaret River Region landscape — source of some of the world’s most recognised premium wines. Running the family wine business, Leeuwin Estate, alongside her brother means being in touch with all aspects. Rainfall. Hours of sunlight. Soil condition. The timing of the annual Marri flowering. Each element of nature as vitally important as sales figures and wine exports.

When you’ve had your fill of Chardonnay, take the opportunity to retrace some of Simone’s favourite experiences.

What’s your favourite beach?

Redgate beach, it’s where we learnt to swim and surf as kids and has always been one of my favourite beaches in the world!

Where do you always take your visitors?

For a walk through the spectacular old growth Karri trees in the Boranup Forest, finishing at the dramatic cliff coastline of Contos beach.

Top 3 local food or wine experiences?

I can’t go past having lunch on the Leeuwin Estate restaurant verandah, as there’s no better way to connect with our wines than to enjoy them on the land where they were grown! It celebrates our passion for fine wine, art and locally sourced food, while showcasing our sense of place. I also enjoy visiting other Margaret River cellar doors, to enjoy a tasting experience and discover their winemaking philosophy. On Saturday mornings, the Margaret River Farmer’s Market offers a wonderful opportunity to meet regional food producers and inspire the purchase of ingredients for some great weekend home cooking.

The best fun to be had by families?

A family adventure to Augusta, with lunch from the Augusta Bakery, a visit to the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and seeing where the Indian and Southern oceans meet. Stopping along the way at Hamelin Bay for a beach walk to watch the stingrays.

What’s your favourite time of year?

Every season has its special attributes, but I really love April and May. It’s post vintage, the vines start turning their spectacular golden colours and there is a wonderful celebratory energy in the winemaking community.

The must-try wine varietals?

Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are the benchmark must-try Margaret River varietals, but the evolution of Shiraz from the region is really exciting me.

The best spot to watch the sunset?

An isolated beach down the end of a dirt track, or sitting on the crest of a hill in a vineyard.

You can’t leave the Margaret River Region without doing what…?

Going down to the ocean, visiting the Rivermouth and stopping at Surfers Point.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 46
Top left: Simone Horgan; Top right: Contos Beach Above: Deliciously paired wine and seafood at Leeuwin Estate WORDS | Sarina Kamini

Chardonnay

47 (bookings essential for workshops) 135 Puzey Road, Wilyabrup WA | Ph. (08) 9755 6111 www.vassevirgin.com.au Open daily SOAP & SKINCARE | GOURMET FOOD | EXPERIENCES DISCOVER THE ULTIMATE OLIVE OIL EXPERIENCE SOAP FACTORY & WORKSHOPS
and Cabernet Sauvignon
the benchmark
Margaret River varietals.
are
must-try
Surfers Point, Prevelly Leeuwin Estate

Anniversaries

Artists are attracted to beautiful places. Places that inspire, calm the mind and provide space to enable the flow of creativity. The stunning Margaret River Region is a hive of artists and artisans and while some celebrate milestone anniversaries, others have planted roots.

John Miller Design

Celebrating 50 years

Artist and metalsmith John Miller has been crafting gold and silver jewellery by hand using traditional techniques for 50 years.

According to John’s silver suppliers he is the largest buyer of silver for jewellery in Australia, making him possibly the country’s largest producer of silver jewellery. Over five decades, he has amassed a large and loyal following for his distinctive hand punched and engraved designs. A master craftsman, John still derives joy from setting diamonds, rubies, sapphires, opals and pearls.

John has brought new life to several oldworld and classic jewellery making techniques. He employs 17 staff and teaches traditional techniques to his young jewellers, skills that are no longer taught in the classroom.

“This is my village and my community,” John said. “Being able to train staff and see them grow and make people happy provides me with enormous satisfaction.”

“I have always tried to keep away from what everyone else is doing. You could say I’m the rebel of the jewellery industry in that I don’t follow trends but instead stay true to myself and my designs, processes and style.”

John is a Fellow of the Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia, which means he is regarded as a maker of individual jewellery to a consistently high standard. As a Fellow, John has his own makers mark struck on each item of jewellery John Miller Design produces, allowing his jewellery to be identified in

in Art

perpetuity. His marks are also registered in London. A special 50th Anniversary hallmark will be added to all jewellery produced in 2023/24 to mark his milestone.

John Miller has two studios, his original in Yallingup and a new showroom and workshop in Margaret River. Visit johnmillerdesign.com for more.

While visiting John Miller’s studio in Yallingup, make your own creative trail and weave in Yallingup Galleries, and The Studio Gallery in Dunsborough too.

Margaret River Region Open Studios Celebrating 10 years

Over the past decade, Margaret River Region Open Studios has grown to become Australia’s largest regional open studios event. This year, a bumper 10th Anniversary event is planned from 9 to 24 September across the region.

More than 167 artists, 44 of whom will be new to the event, will throw open their studio doors and invite you in for a peek into their creative worlds.

Hobbyist, emerging and professional artists will share their usually private spaces and happily recount their stories to visitors. Kilns will be firing, lathes turning, oil paints daubed on palettes, printing presses cranking, fabrics stretched, precious metals tempered, glass blown, and mosaics cut in front of the art inquisitive.

The free Margaret River Region Open Studios event is one to mark in your diaries. It won the 2022 WA Tourism Awards for Festivals and Events and has garnered a reputation for being interesting, inclusive and inspiring.

Chair Jim Davies said this year would be a special celebration with almost one third of the participating artists new to the program.

“And these are of course not all necessarily artists who have recently taken up art, but rather artists who have chosen to call the Margaret River Region home in recent years. And why wouldn’t they? We are surrounded by natural inspiration.”

From Busselton to Augusta, artists will open their studio and showcase an impressive array of artforms including ceramics, drawing, glass,

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 48
John Miller Angus Watkins Wilyabrup Studio

jewellery, mixed media, mosaics, painting, photography, pottery, printmaking, sculpture, textiles, upcycling, and woodwork.

John Miller Design has participated in all Margaret River Region Open Studios events, and Russell Ord will be participating in his first.

“The natural beauty of the Margaret River Region is a significant influence on local artists and inspires event visitors,” Jim said.

Margaret River Region Open Studios will soon have a new website for a deeper dive into the creative talent pool. It will also make it easier for visitors to plan their artistic adventure, following a trail of their favourite artists or art styles, or discover new talent.

Visit mrropenstudios.com.au for more information and inspiration.

Russell Ord

Award winning photographer opens a new gallery

A professional photographer for over 20 years, this is Russell Ord’s first year with a bricks-andmortar gallery at Edwards Wines, and it will be his first year participating in Margaret River Region Open Studios.

The acclaimed Australian photographer is known for his breathtaking surf and ocean images. The stunning gallery space displays a rotating collection of images that capture the raw beauty of the Western Australian coast.

Russell has built a reputation for his fearless approach to photography, often placing himself in dangerous situations to capture the perfect shot.

“As a photographer, I want to remember myself for taking that ‘one’ photo, not because of the surfer’s name or reputation, but because of the position I put myself in to capture the moment in time.”

Russell’s bravery, advanced waterman skills and photographic talent captured the violent twist of the Indian Ocean known simply as ‘The Right’. The hard-won image was the focal point for his documentary called ‘One Shot’.

His work has been featured in leading international publications such as The Surfers Journal and Tracks, and he has won numerous awards for his photography.

Russell’s ocean photos beautifully capture the majestic power of giant waves. Staring at the enormity of a mountainous fat slab of water leaves me wondering how he got out of there alive.

You can see them for yourself. After a wine tasting in the architecturally impressive cellar door in the adjacent building, wander through the gallery. You may even meet Russell who is always happy to share insights into his creative process.

“This area has always been a great source of inspiration for me, and I’m excited to share my work with visitors to our region and to Edwards Wines.” Russell said.

The near-new gallery space is light filled and spacious, the walls adorned with Russell’s limited-edition prints, including some of his most iconic images of big wave surfing along with new works that showcase the region’s natural beauty. For more information visit russellordphoto.com

KICK BACK & RELAX WITH US GREAT BEER, FOOD AND SERVICE IN THE HEART OF MARGARET RIVER. MARGARETRIVERBEER.CO @MARGARETRIVERBEER.CO | 35 BUSSELL HWY. MARGARET RIVER or FIND YoUr NEA r EST r ETAILE r HE rE >>>> GRAB SOME TAKEAWAYS TO ENJOY ANYWHERE LOVE OUR BEER?
Every day I discover more and more beautiful things. It’s enough to drive one mad. I have such a desire to do everything, my head is bursting with it.”
- Claude Monet
Russell Ord

All That Sparkles:

THE SPARKLING WINE GUIDE

This is your guide to some of the best sparkling wine in the Margaret River Region.

Well known as an epicentre for stand out Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, the growing depth of sparkling wine production ticks yet another box for wine travellers and wine lovers who love a little bubble in their bottle.

Though by no means an exhaustive list, these six wineries offer a place to begin your journey.

1. Vasse Felix

The OG

The Margaret River Region’s founding wine estate Vasse Felix has been producing sparkling wine since the 1980s, but the 2018 first vintage of Ideé Fixe — a dedicated label for sparkling — has taken things up a notch.

Made using the traditional method and sourcing Chardonnay from its cooler climate Karridale vineyard, Ideé Fixe is a showcase for Blanc de Blanc: sparkling made using one hundred percent Chardonnay grape sparkling

wines. The Premier Brut is a classic: all green apple aroma and an exuberant bead that makes this the perfect aperitif or celebration fizz. Add a little bit of Pinot Noir and you have the Brut Rosé: playful, balanced and just the right amount of dry to finish.

Keep an eye out for the specialty Blanc de Blanc cellar door and restaurant at the sparkling house’s winery just south of the Margaret River township.

2. Fermoy Estate

The Hidden Gem

Though a well-known local player, Fermoy Estate flies a little under the radar for the region’s visitors. Which is why we’re placing it front and centre as an example of a Margaret River Region sparkling worth celebrating.

Pop the cork on the 2017 Vintage Brut Premier — winner of the Champion Sparkling Wine of Show award at the recent 2022

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 50
WORDS | Sarina Kamini Howard Park

who love a little bubble in their bottle.

Australian Small Winemakers Show. A blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, it’s a rich example of a classic aperitif wine.

A great choice, in other words, to lead a BYO picnic on the grounds of the Fermoy Estate, or to kick off a weekend with friends in the winery’s luxe and fully equipped four-bedroom lodge. And you can’t forget the Vintage Brut Rosé, it’s a delicate blush of sparkling for those that love a little pink.

3. Firetail A Rare Find

The beautiful and plump red-eared firetail finches can be difficult to spot in their native habitat in the Jarrah, Marri and Tuart forests. Unique to the southwest of Western Australia, seeing one is always cause for celebration.

While a bit of signage will help you navigate the drive to Firetail’s cellar door, the sense of specialness at arriving is the same. A family

affair, owners Rob Glass and Jessica Worrall have five hectares of estate owned vines over the Margaret River and Geographe regions, including their award winning 2016 Sparkling Chardonnay. The Silver Medal winner at the 2022 Australian Sparkling Show is a traditional method sparkling aged for 72 months on lees.

But even if you’re not a sparkling fanatic, it’s worth the drive to Rosa Glen just to experience the space: set deep in the bush, the cellar door building is handcrafted from jarrah and used French oak barrels. That The Berry Farm with its famed scones is right up the road is an added bonus.

4. Howard Park The Classic

Howard Park Wines has been one of the Margaret River Region’s most known producers of traditional method sparkling for quite some time. Its elegant cellar door is the flagship space showcasing the family-owned winery’s Margaret

Vasse Felix
... the growing depth of sparkling wine production ticks yet another box for wine travellers and wine lovers

River Region and Great Southern focus.

The Jeté range is a tiered offering of four styles of sparkling within the frame of straight Chardonnay and dominant Chardonnay and Pinot noir blends: a bar tasting is a great intro for newcomers on how region, ageing, and blending affects the end glass.

And when all is said and done, you can choose your favourite bottle and make for the sheltered lawn with a pick-your-own cheese and charcuterie board. Lawn games are on hand to keep the kids entertained.

5. House of Cards Single Origin

From 100 percent hand-picked Sauvignon Blanc grapes, husband and wife team Travis and Elizabeth Wray makes a Pétillant Naturel

sparkling that’s all about orange marmalade, sherbet and pineapple, and made to drink now. The pet nat style is great for those looking for a bit less of a formal fizz.

If you get hungry after wine tasting it’s worth noting that House of Cards has an equally famed neighbour—the lauded and locally loved Chow’s Table run by talented Chinese Malay super chef, Mal Chow.

6. Credaro Wines

Gentle Mousse

Crafted from 100% Chardonnay fruit grown in the Credaro Family Estate Vineyards, the Kinship Blanc de Blanc 2021 is a popular favourite amongst the range. Made in a traditional method, the wine reveals a gentle mousse with layers of lemon tart and apples. The palate unveils a lively complexity, showcasing brioche, honey, and toasty undertones. Rich lees creaminess gives way to a clean saline finish. For the ultimate experience, savour this sparkling wine with family and friends at Credaro’s Yallingup cellar door while enjoying breathtaking views over the Wildwood Valley.

MORE NOTEWORTHY SPARKLES TO TRY

THIS SUMMER are Aravina Estate’s Chenin Blanc, Clairault Streicker’s Blanc de Blancs, and Swings & Roundabouts’ Pinot Chardonnay.

LEAVE THE DRIVING TO SOMEONE ELSE

The Margaret River Bubbles Tour is the only winery tour in the region specialising in sparkling wine, and the owner Mark will take you on a great day out combining sparkling wine tastings and gourmet food.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 52
Howard Park Credaro Wines House of Cards

Conserving our Creatures

PROTECTED SPECIES IN OUR CARE

Catching a glimpse of the wildlife that call the Margaret River Region home is truly something special; from elusive marsupials and shy slithering reptiles to the sweeping rays and dolphins that swim close to the shores. But more and more of these remarkable creatures are dangerously dwindling, with many at critically endangered levels.

The three species of stingray that call Hamelin Bay home are the smooth stingray, black stingray and eagle ray. All of them are protected by the Ngari Capes Marine Park, so visitors can admire them from afar, without making physical or close contact. If an angler accidentally catches one, you must let it go immediately.

Whales are another majestic ocean animal in need of our protection. Their populations were seriously reduced by whaling, especially during the 20th Century. Director of Western Whale Research, Chris Burton, says southern rights were hit the hardest because of their slow movement. They’re now classed as endangered almost everywhere, and recovery is slow.

“They’re very inquisitive and would literally come up to a boat, then, that’s it,” he says.

Chris has been researching blue, humpback and southern right whales in the South West for nearly forty years. Since 2003 he has been working with a large group of committed volunteers, who collect important data

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 54
Image Russell Ord

on whales in Geographe Bay.

“I remember [photographing] one that really blew my mind,” he says.

“I was monitoring whales aboard a small boat in Eagle Bay in 1996, and photographed a female southern right with her little calf. Last year while going through the catalogue I saw this image and thought, I think I’ve seen this before!”

Chris discovered it was the same whale, nine years later with another calf, in the same area off Busselton. This is the first evidence that southern rights in the region are returning to the same bays to give birth and nurse their calves. But disturbances, like loud engine noises, can scare them away.

“We might see a mum every day, then all of a sudden we see jet skis or boats speeding through, and you can actually see the whales change direction and behaviours,” Chris says.

“And they might just leave and not come back.”

Chris says that when whales don’t feel threatened, they’re more likely to engage.

“Sometimes you’ll see a couple of blows a few hundred metres away, and the next thing you know they come up behind you and scare you to death,” he says.

“And that is amazing because you know they’re just interested and innately curious.”

The hooded plover, affectionately known as the hoodie, is another critically endangered species that calls the South West home. These small shorebirds get their name from their distinguishable black hood and throat. They also like to bob their heads constantly when standing still.

General Manager of Nature Conservation

Margaret River Region (NCMRR), Drew McKenzie, says hooded plovers usually nest in a simple scrape of sand on the beach, just above the high tide mark.

“This nesting habit makes them particularly vulnerable to a range of threats, including four wheel drives, dogs, feral cats, foxes, simple foot traffic and modified dune systems,” he says.

“Only around 11 pairs of hoodies are known to nest and raise their young on beaches between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin.” Educating people about how to reduce their

impact is a big part of what the NCMRR does. They have worked with students from Margaret River Primary School, who researched the hooded plover and presented their findings to local councillors.

“We have been very fortunate to have had Christine Wilder from Birdlife Australia work with our local primary school students as part of our environmental education programs,” he says.

“They studied the species in detail, including building nesting shelters, educational materials

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 56
Left: Chris Burton, Director of Western Whale Research. Below: A woma python. Hooded plover

Chris says that when whales don’t feel threatened, they’re more likely to engage.

57 Breakfast - Lunch - Events
café is a welcoming bush hideaway where you’ll find tasty, daytime dishes that are full of local flavour. 278 Hayes Rd Quindalup goannacafe.com.au
| 08 9759 1477 info@goanacafe.com.au
Goanna
@goannacafe
Dolphins playing in the waves

and engaging animations on how we can look after hoodies.”

Christine Wilder formed BirdLife WA’s Cape to Cape Bird Group in 2005. BirdLife Australia, alongside state and local governments, have been protecting the hooded plover along the coast of the capes region. This work has involved hundreds of local volunteers and through more recent programs with Parks and Wildlife during the beach nesting-birds breeding season.

“When the hoodies are nesting, fencing and signage is erected to alert beachgoers to the vulnerability of this endangered species. Beachgoers can assist by moving quickly past nest sites, walk close to the tideline to avoid disturbance, and put their dogs on lead.” says Christine.

Discover Deadly is another incredible organisation committed to educating visitors about native animals in the region. Co-owner and manager, Becca Bolton, says there are a few non-venomous slithery friends that need conservation help, like the woma python, which was listed as endangered in 1996.

“Two of the main ones are being mistaken as venomous so are sadly killed, and intensive agriculture practices destroy their habitat,” she says.

“This species used to be seen in the South West, but there has been no recordings of live individuals for many years.”

The non-venomous South West carpet python is now the only python species in the region.

“They can grow up to 3m, and we take delight in telling locals that they probably have one in their roof without even realising,” she says.

“But that’s a good thing as they are less likely to have a problem with rats and mice.”

Becca says the illegal export of reptiles is

probably the biggest threat to their existence, as animals are taken from the wild then transported out of the country into the illegal pet trade. Reporting suspicious behaviour is the best way to thwart the efforts of illegal reptile traders.

“We can do our bit to help reptiles in the wild too,” Becca says.

“By gardening with care, not using baits and leaving them alone when we come across them.”

If you’d like to discover and learn more about the incredible native creatures of the South West, plan a visit to one of the many wildlife conservation centres doing amazing work in the region.

Where to learn more

Western Whale Research

Discover more at souwest.org/research/ western-whale-research

Whale Watching

Tours depart from Busselton and Dunsborough from September to late November/early December. margaretriver.com/whales

Discover Deadly

Visit the reptiles at 10 Wildwood Rd, Carbunup River

Nature Conservation

Margaret River

Head to natureconservation.org.au for more on their work

COME AND VISIT OUR CELLAR DOOR Open 7 Days from 11am to 4pm BIODYNAMIC VINEYARD TOURS • COMPLIMENTARY WINE TASTINGS • FAMILY DOG FRIENDLY 28 Whittle Road, Yallingup - a stone throw from Smiths Beach - info@marriwoodpark.com.au Family run. Hand picked. Biodynamic. No chemicals. No pesticides. No fertiliser.
Humpback whale
59 Cellar Door & Vineyard Kitchen wine tasting - lunch - wine blending experience - vineyard picnic 3277 Caves Road, Wilyabrup 08 9755 6225 | bookings@clairaultstreicker.com.au www.clairaultstreicker.com.au

Behind the

Gate:

Connecting with the Region’s Fresh Producers

Fresh local produce is key to many South West award-winning restaurants and has been feeding the region’s visitors and locals for centuries. Here’s how to connect with the people growing it, and how you can bring some home for yourself.

When Simon Creagh sent some of his cattle to the Dardanup Butchering company, he was surprised when it came back with a certificate. The certificate was a Meat Standards Australia (MSA) top 50 award grading his meat in the top 50 producers in the state. I mean, he knew his produce was good, but this validated all the hard work he had put in over the past few years starting an organic butchery from his Karridale home.

“I was pretty chuffed when it came back,” he says.

“One other thing that impressed me too was that a few other guys around the corner got certificates too. There were four of us in total, right here in Karridale. I suppose that says a lot about

the quality of the agricultural conditions we have here. It really is some of the best in the state.”

Margaret River is home to a number of fresh producers like Simon, and since Covid, many have cut out the middleman and begun selling direct to the public. For the consumer, it means they are able to build a relationship with the people who grow their food, and have direct access to some of the best and freshest food in the state.

You’ll find these producers at places like the Blue Manna Bistro, Margaret River Farmer’s Market, Western Growers Fresh, Chris’s Sea to You Seafoods, Origins Market, Gathered Organics, and Leeuwin Grassfed Beef

A lifelong farmer, Simon had always dreamed

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 60

of beginning his own organic butchery from his Karridale home, and in 2017 he quit his full-time job managing a vineyard in WA’s South West and set about working and living entirely from his land.

With wife Nat and four kids, they planted a 24-bed market garden beside their Nillup home, and began planning to build an adjoining butchery to process and sell grass-fed meat from the 500 sheep and 100 cattle they run on their 580-acre block.

While they established the garden and acquired permits, Simon worked occasional contracting jobs on neighbouring farms to supplement their income. Finally, in 2020, Simon and Nat were ready. They found a new opportunity and purchased Leeuwin Grassfed Beef, but unnervingly, this acquisition coincided

Explore Australia’s South West coastal marine parks on an informative and fun guided tour.

When you see the fascinating geology and stunning views, you’ll understand why this is one of the most popular attractions in the Margaret River region.

Book online now!

dunsboroughjetskitours.com.au

Ph: 0448 086 886

Quindalup Boat Ramp 371 Geographe Bay Rd, Quindalup

One and two hour tours depart daily. No experience or licence required.

The beauty of the Margaret River Region is the quality of the local produce, and the easy access that consumers have to producers like Simon.
Simon Creagh outside his farmgate in Karridale.

with the arrival of the Covid pandemic.

Simon and Nat were worried about how Covid might cruel their dream, but things changed in a way they never could have imagined.

“It has changed the landscape forever, especially with food. People have had more time at home, they’re valuing local producers, and they’re looking at ways they don’t have to go out to get their food,” says Simon.

“One of the really great things about this kind of transaction is that it’s building relationships. The customer can ask you all sorts of questions: what the animals are fed, what they’re not fed, everything, right down to your philosophies on life and how that translates into how you treat your animals. They know the farmer. They can come and have a look at what we do, if they want.”

“For me, it’s also the best thing about my job. I get to see where my product goes. It’s bloody hard work doing this, but the feedback I get makes it all worthwhile.”

The beauty of the Margaret River Region is

the quality of the local produce, and the easy access that consumers have to producers like Simon. After initially planning to only wholesale to restaurants and commercial outlets, Simon began selling direct to the public and offering home delivery as demand for these services boomed.

Covid and associated lockdowns have also caused a fundamental reset in the way in which people interact around food, says Margaret River former celebrity chef and TV presenter, Ian Parmenter.

“There is a theory: we’re all consumers and we’re all citizens. What happens is that people are consumers during the week and citizens on the weekends,” says Ian.

“What that means is that on weekends people take time to buy their food, they go to the delis and the markets, and they get their recipes out of papers and magazines and so on. And they go home and prepare food properly, and they take it seriously. They sit around the table as a family. And that’s beautiful. But

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 62

during the week, all of that is often thrown out of the window for convenience, and many people go back to being consumers.

“What Covid has done is given people time. Families could actually get together, and the kids could get involved with cooking. People were cooking their own food, baking their own bread.”

Equally as vital as appreciating food and cooking as a communal event is cultivating a relationship with the people who grow it, says Ian.

“I think it’s everything. It’s what we were meant to do back in the day.”

LOOKING FOR THE REGION’S JUICIEST BEEF BURGERS?

may vary by location. Vehicles can be reserved by car group only and not by particular car model or colour. Fleet subject to change without notice. 14. One way rentals are available between selected locations. Blackout periods may apply please check at time of Reservation 15. Special conditions may apply. Promotional terms and conditions subject to change without notice.

63 15% Off* Base Rate of the Day Offer available from 1/09/23 – 28/02/24 Scan for More *T&Cs apply. 1. Promotion Code 101970 must be quoted at the time of reservation. 2. Offer available only for rentals commencing between 1st September 2023 and 29th February 2024 unless sold out 3. Offer available at Busselton Airport and Busselton DT locations 4. Minimum rental period of [1] consecutive days applies, with a maximum of [15%] off Time & Kilometre Charges only, for a Maximum rental period of [27] consecutive days. 5. Rental days are based on a twenty-four (24) hour period. 6. A fifty-nine (59) minute grace period is allowed for returns. Returns outside the grace period will be charged up to an extra day rental fee. 7. Offer excludes taxes, fees, optional products and services, fuel, additional charges such as airport taxes and sundry fees and the GST that applies to these charges. 8. This offer may not be combined with any other offer, discount promotion, special offer or coupon. 9. Offer is not applicable on pay now, contract, tours, government or insurance replacement rentals. 10. Offer applies in Australia to all vehicle groups . All vehicles are subject to availability at time of booking. 11. Thrifty standard terms and conditions, driver, rental and credit qualifications in effect at the time and place of rental apply. 12. Age requirements vary dependent on vehicle reserved. 13. Vehicle models may differ and specifications
Swing past Margaret River Brewhouse, Normal Van, and Burger Baby. You won’t be disappointed.
Margaret River Brewhouse Blue Manna Bistro

Sustainable Stays:

Unique Retreats

Unique accommodation from tiny houses to houseboats and glampavans.

Have you ever scrolled through beautiful photos of unconventional, unique accommodation?

You know the shots we mean: scrunched doonas and steaming hot mugs of coffee inside architectural cabins or isolated cottages. Turns out that the Margaret River Region has a few of these Insta-worthy gems tucked away. Think sustainable tiny houses, houseboats, ‘glampavans’ and more.

So why not add a little something extra to your holiday and go a wee bit left-field? Here are six unique accommodation options.

Petit Eco Cabin –Windows Estate Yallingup

An architecturally designed and sustainable cabin in the midst of an organic vineyard? Where have you been all our lives! Tucked among the trees and alongside a lake on the Windows Estate property, this is the perfect private retreat to get away from it all. Waterfall windows let the stars in at night, and day beds inside-and-out allow for 24-hour lazing. Other amenities include a vintage outdoor bathtub, fireplace and baker’s oven.

The timber heavily featured in the cabin was milled by the owners; members of the Davies family itself. The cabin captures all its own rainwater, its grey water is recycled onto nearby fruit trees, and a solar hot water system.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 64
WORDS | Emily Kurys-Romer Tree Chalets

Glampavan and Off-Grid Cottage Margaret River Heartland

Margaret River Heartland boasts two accommodation options to fulfil all your country frolicking fantasies: a bohemian, artistic “glampavan” and an eco-aligned, rustic timber cottage. It is a charming farm property located (as the name suggests) within the latticework of wineries, cheese, nougat and chocolate factories among other delights. The glampavan was once a worker’s accommodation unit and has been lovingly renovated over three years as an artistic expression of the owner, Anita Revel.

Eclectic and vintage touches are peppered through the intimate space, including a record-player (!) to serve as a backdrop to the farmland and vineyard views. Settlers Rest is an entirely off-grid wooden cottage with a rustic country charm, right down to its oven/fireplace and piano. The property is replete with the Wilyabrup Creek meandering through, private forest trails, outdoor art and sculpture and even the option to host weddings.

Barn Hives Yallingup –Barnyard 1978 Yallingup

The striking eco-friendly pods at Barn Hives lie just minutes from Smiths Beach, with views down to the water and delicious food at the doorstep thanks to Yallingup’s well-loved Barnyard 1978 restaurant. Taking inspiration

from the beehives that are dotted around the property, the accommodation plays into the owners’ “casually classy” ethos, providing a touch of luxury on their vineyard and bee farm.

The pods are solar passive with crossventilation crucial to their design, and are selfsufficient with rainwater collection and solar panels. A pellet-fire heater warms in winter, while fans circulate those down south summer breezes. Each pod has a private deck with views (and barbecues!) and a fully equipped kitchen, while the upper storey is devoted to an elegant master suite. The restaurant makes its own pasta daily and provides tastings of its honey and wine.

Not a keeper of bees but rather of unique works of art, head up the road to John Miller Yallingup and browse his beautifully handmade jewellery. Favourites are of course the Bee On Honeycomb silver pendant and the Beeautiful tapered bangle with 18ct yellow gold rivet.

Tree Chalets Busselton

The two award-winning cabins at Tree Chalets are eco-luxury at its best. Stroll the surrounding trails, enjoy a languid soak in the cast iron outdoor bath, or just take a moment to soak in the serenity – all in the knowledge that your stay has been carefully designed to ensure a gentle footprint. Single use plastic? You won’t find any here, with dispensers in the bathroom

• Over 60 udderlicious ice cream flavours created from local full-cream milk.

• Vegan options available.

• Picnic & BBQ area.

• Adventure Playground.

• 18 hole mini-golf – get a group going.

• Barista coffee and toasted paninis.

• Wonderful waffles and sensational sundaes.

We’re open every day 10am to 5pm. 161 Commonage Road, Dunsborough.

65
Soak up the sunshine at Simmos.
Glampavan

for the toiletries and a breakfast hamper of fresh local produce. It may even include fruit freshly picked from the orchard.

Tucked away in a Rose Gum forest, the view from the private deck through the silvery trunks of the soaring trees is truly unique.

Blackwood River Houseboats

Augusta

Add this to your bucket-list. What could be better than putting along the Blackwood River, dining under the stars and lazing on the top deck of your very own houseboat? Cruise up to 28 kilometres of the Hardy Inlet and national park (or even further in your dinghy tender!), relax, kayak, bushwalk, birdwatch or spot

wildflowers and wild river dolphins.

Blackwood River Houseboats has 2, 4 or 6 berth boats available, and no skippers ticket is required, with the vessels easy to drive. The dinghies can be moored at the Augusta townsite at other jetties along the river for day trips or popping back for creature comforts (or a meal with spectacular views at the Augusta Hotel). If ‘staying on location’ while fishing is your scene, you can look forward to king george whiting, black and bream, crab, tailor and mullet.

Walk Talk Taste

Gourmet Glamp

Margaret River

This is bush luxe at its finest – a true Margaret River immersion experience by campfire in the heart of premium wine country. Sumptuously furnished for comfort, intimacy and warmth, generously stocked with the region’s premium artisan produce for your relaxed enjoyment. Everything is included in your stay.

This special and exclusive experience is all about the best Margaret River has to offer: premium wine, craft gin and beer, artisan produce, and exclusive access to a huge and luxuriously appointed bell tent, private outdoor shower, campfire, wildlife and trails – all within walking or riding distance of Voyager, Leeuwin and Xanadu Estates.

There’s one tent only and as much privacy or guiding from your host Walk Talk Taste Margaret River as you desire.

Blackwood River Houseboats Walk Talk Taste Gourmet Glamp
68
UNDALUP

BUSSELTON

Busselton’s city precinct and foreshore offers the perfect fusion of coastal and city life. Spend the morning perusing quality shops, cafés and pubs along Queen Street, then, find perfect views of the famous jetty and of breaching whales along the foreshore where playgrounds, skateparks, and eateries abound.

Busselton Jetty: Built in 1865, the Busselton Jetty has always been the centre of activity in this vibrant beach town. Along its 1.8 kilometre timber piling and in the waters beneath, locals and holiday-makers alike walk, fish, swim and snorkel.

Crafty Pints: Busselton is the unoffcial home of craft beer in the South West, with urban, seaside and bush-block breweries - all of which welcome the whole family - offering up a taste of the region’s best.

Free Events: The event capital of Western Australia, Busselton has a calendar packed full of arts, cultural and sporting events. Don’t miss Fine Vines, Festival of Busselton and Busselton Jetty Swim this summer!

ArtGeo Cultural Complex: This is where Busselton’s art and heritage meet; experience historical tours, witness working artists’ studios and wander galleries and exhibitions.

Geographe Bay: The seclusion and safety of Geographe Bay defines holidays in Busselton. From exploring rock pools and sand-castle-making, to long walks with the dog. Fishing, crabbing and boating are shared through the generations. And if you don’t catch anything, there’s always fish and chips on the foreshore!

Eating Out: Busselton’s cuisine is a constantly evolving smorgasbord of distinctly local flavours. From the delicious tasting bars, street food vendors and take-home meals at Origins Market, to soul warming cafés and brew-pubs, there is a sumptuous mix of options to choose from.

TOWN MAP

Visitor

69
Centre Gallery
Supermarket
Pedestrian/cycle path
Dining/shopping precinct
Shop Green Space HIGHLIGHTS MARINE TCE BUSSELTON JETTY SIGNAL PARK Orana Cinema Hilzees Subculture Avis Car Rental BUSSELTON FORESHORE Skate Park Playground ArtGeo Complex BUSSELL HWY ArtGeo Gallery Weld Theatre Bistro Breton Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop Esplanade Hotel Spice Odysee Rocky Ridge Brewing Co Equinox Restaurant and Bar The Goose Shelter Brewing Co Busselton Museum Woodturners & Pottery Origins Market Busselton Central Shopping Centre Fusion Jewellers Phil Hollett Gallery Villa Carlotta Travel Jetty Train Tours Dive Busselton Jetty Merenj Boodja (bush food garden) To Perth QUEEN ST 20 min 1.4 km To Dunsborough McDonalds
Restaurant
Café
Bar
Gift

Rocky Ridge: The farm that became a brewery

For five generations, the Coates family have made their living as dairy farmers in Jindong. But when Hamish Coates was a broke university student in Perth, he stumbled into an idea that changed the farm’s future forever.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 70

When fifth generation Jindong dairy and cattle farmer Hamish Coates was studying geology and physics at the University of Western Australia, he didn’t have much money. But he didn’t allow this to stop him from having fun.

Having grown up on a farm, Hamish was always practically minded and had a strong sense of initiative. When he couldn’t afford to buy beer, he began brewing his own instead.

The completion of his degree coincided with the mining downturn, and instead of the highpaying mining geology job he envisioned, he was forced to return home to his family farm. Determined not to let what he had learned at uni go to waste, Hamish began brewing beer. Lots of beer.

He studied brewing online and then at Edith Cowan University’s Joondalup campus, before starting as an assistant brewer at Cheeky Monkey Brewing Co under head brewer Ross Terlick.

With the dairy industry doing it tough, he soon convinced his old man that there were better margins in grog, and together they launched a commercial brewery on the family farm.

Nicknamed Rocky Ridge for the ridge of ironstone that runs beneath their property, the Coates have been running dairy and beef cattle here for over 100 years. Now, it is one of WA’s largest exporters of craft beer, selling almost 150,000 litres per year to suppliers in Southeast Asia.

Hamish released his first beer under the label in 2017, and quickly grew the company into one of WA’s major breweries. Six years since Rocky Ridge first began, and the brewery have increased their output thirty-fold, from 50,000 litres to 1.5 million.

“It was a fortunate set of circumstances,” says Hamish. “At the time I didn’t feel very fortunate, but now it’s cool.”

Rocky Ridge remains an operating dairy and beef farm, with Hamish’s brother Colin

71 Tales & Trails / 71
BOOK OUR TIME FOR WELL-BEING PACKAGE AT PULLMAN BUNKER BAY RESORT INCLUDED IN YOUR TWO NIGHT STAY: • BREAKFAST BUFFET • 30% OFF ANY SPA TREATMENT (OVER 60 MINUTES) • HEALTHY SNACKS AND DRINKS ON ARRIVAL • COMPLIMENTARY ACCESS TO THE RESORT’S WELLBEING FACILITIES OUR WORLD IS YOUR PLAYGROUND BUNKER BAY ROAD, CAPE NATURALISTE WA. 08 9756 9100 BUNKER BAY RESOR T MARGARET RIVER REGION PULLMANHOTELS.COM – ALL.COM Enter Promo Code ‘TRAILS’ to receive a bottle of Margaret River Wine on arrival.
BUNKER BAY EXPERIENCE ACTIVE TIME OFF

managing that side of the business. But on the 1200-acre home block, they’ve also established an orchard and hops yard.

“I love being back on the farm,” says Hamish. “It was always the place I wanted to end up, I just thought it was going to be a much longer journey getting there.

The five generations that the Coates family have spent working the land has inculcated in them a strong respect for their environment. Many of the principles that have defined their farming practices have also transferred across

to the brewery: treading lightly, supporting local, says Rocky Ridge co-founder Mel Holland.

“That agricultural mindset is woven into everything we do. The brewery is naturally different, but the methodology is the same as the dairy farm. Values have stayed the same. Sustainability ethos is the driving force behind who we are and what we do. That comes from Hamish growing up on the farm and seeing the impact of climate change firsthand.”

Rocky Ridge are also Australia’s first certified sustainable and carbon neutral brewery, and

Rocky Ridge are also Australia’s first certified sustainable and carbon neutral brewery, and are committed to net zero emissions from their brewing process by 2025.

are committed to net zero emissions from their brewing process by 2025. To achieve this, Rocky Ridge have set up a carbon dioxide reclamation plant, recycle their wastewater, and utilise a large solar power and battery system.

They have also maintained their standing as an integral part of their local community and remain mostly a family affair. They work with local producers and community groups, and aim to be an exemplar of responsibility, restoration, and respect for the land on which they live and work.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 72
today. a rare experience awaits. visit our ocean pantry www.rarefoodsaustralia.com.au Augusta
Road Augusta WA 6290 +61 8 6181 8820 | marketing@rarefoods.com.au
truly one-of-a-kind experience
you and your family
Boat Harbour, Leeuwin
A
awaits
at Rare Foods Australia’s Ocean Pantry.
Discover our origins and innovations, savour some of the South-West’s locallysourced premium products and enjoy a barista-made coffee whilst soaking up ocean views of the pristine Flinders Bay from the Augusta Boat Harbour.

“We do whatever we can to make a difference, buying fruit seconds from local farmers to produce our beer. It’s about local first, wherever we can. As farmers, we remain an integral part of the local community, and we’re about

making a difference to the planet and setting an example, showing that even as a small business, the little things can make a difference.”

Visit Rocky Ridge Taphouse in the heart of Busselton at 10 Marine Terrace. Open 7 days a week from 11am.

Make it an epic craft beer crawl

Whether you’re a craft beer connoisseur or just curious about the craft beer phenomenon, why not make it into a craft beer crawl? The craft beer industry is booming with 13 epic breweries in the region alone, each of them with a unique take on their brews and glorious views.

Arguably the best way to do a beer crawl: let the locals take you on a dedicated brewery tour. Check out Margaret River Brewery Tours or Bushtucker Tours, or hire a private chauffeur.

For the freshest ale around the northern end of the region, don’t miss The Sophisticated Beast, Southcamp, Shelter Brewing Co., The Grove Distillery & Brewery, Eagle Bay Brewing Co., Cheeky Monkey Brewing Co., Wild Hop Brewing Co., Beerfarm, Black Brewing Co., and of course, Rocky Ridge Brewing Co

Exploring more south? Swing past Cowaramup Brewing Co., Margaret River Brewhouse, and CBCo Brewing

QUEDJINUP

74

Dunsborough town centre is a coastal community located within walking distance from Geographe Bay, with a distinctly different vibe offered at the shopping district than at the casual beachfront. The town is bursting with bakeries, bars and fashion boutiques while the beach is perfect for a bike ride and a splash in the turquoise waters.

Yallingup: Yallingup is surrounded by the ruggedly beautiful Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. Here the calm waters of Geographe Bay give way to a dramatic coastline, famous for its surf breaks. So good are the waves here, pro surfer Taj Burrow calls it home.

Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse: A casual 59 steps to the top of this working lighthouse rewards visitors with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean and Meelup Regional Park. Bookings recommended.

Ngilgi Cave: An ancient and sacred place, Ngilgi Cave is the site of an Aboriginal creation story that’s shared with visitors by Traditional Owner Josh Whiteland (Koomal Dreaming). The resonating silence and intricacy inside the cave leaves its mark on all who bear witness.

Picturesque Drinking & Dining: Elevated casual is Dunsborough’s definition of meal time – restaurants, wineries and breweries offer a taste of the region’s best, with nature’s beauty the backdrop.

Intimate Moments: Intimacy takes on new meaning here – whether you’re travelling solo or as a couple, family or friends, there’s a sense of seclusion and natural indulgence in Dunsborough that draws you closer to what’s important.

Boutique Shopping: From handmade wares and art to clothing and jewellery, shopping here isn’t an exercise in excess but a way of getting into the rhythm of Dunsborough’s alluring lifestyle.

Whale Watching

In spring there are humpback whales in Geographe Bay and along the Cape to Cape coast. By this stage, the whales often travel with a calf on the southern migration, and as a result tend to stay close to the shore.

75
DUNSBOROUGH BEACH LIONS PARK SEYMOUR PARK CAVES RD DUNN BAY RD NATURALISTE TCE GEOGRAPHBAYRD
To Margaret River
Lighthouse CENTENNIAL PARK
CAPE NATURALISTE RD ShoeBeDoo Dunsborough Cellars SquidLips Fish & Chips Nina’s Jewellery Blue Manna Bistro Bike Shed Dunsborough MR Refund Southcamp Yahoo Surfboards Bungalow Social Yarri Dunsborough Bakery Bayside Burger Bar Hillzeez Occy’s Har Bar Bay Village Resort & Spa Naturaliste Charters 10 min 0.6 km TOWN MAP Restaurant Café Bar Gift Shop Gallery Accommodation Supermarket Pedestrian/cycle path Dining/shopping precinct Green Space HIGHLIGHTS DUNSBOROUGH
To Cape Naturaliste
To Quindalup Boat Ramp

Dunsborough & Yallingup Graze and Bathe Trail

WORDS | Sarina Kamini Smiths Beach Resort

There’s a polish to the coastline surrounding Dunsborough and its sister town Yallingup. The ocean is Tahitian-blue, the sand a little whiter, and the climate a little milder than the region’s southern townships.

From $350 per night based on a 4-night stay in a Grove House, subject to availability. Perfect for up to 10 guests.

It makes for a resort feel reflected in the style of venues, and camera worthy opportunities to dip in myriad lagoons and sheltered coves that—despite their beauty— remain relatively unfrequented by the masses.

Start at the top and work your way south with a day (or two or three) of saltwater, epic vistas, and A-team hospitality experiences of the kind that build lasting memories.

Here’s where to start:

The Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse is the feature of the northern most tip of the famed LeeuwinNaturaliste ridge—the defining landmark of the Margaret River Region. But around that lighthouse is a world of walking trails that leave the pace and the destination to you. Take an early morning approach to appreciate the quietude and the views that extend in every direction: vegetation is scrubby due to prevailing winds and ancient soils, a visual reminder of the age of this landscape. Guided lighthouse tours run from 9.30am to 4.30pm every day.

Sugarloaf Rock has got to be one of the most

photographed sunset spots along this part of the coast. But just 100 metres or so from the busy carpark is a pathway to a lesser-known piece of paradise—the Aquarium. Walk the dirt track (on the right heading towards Sugarloaf Rock) a kilometer-or-so to arrive at a sheltered pool that teems with marine wildlife. In summer it’s an incredible secret-ish swimming spot for snorkel fans keen to get their fish spotting count. In the colder months, it’s a relatively sheltered coastal walk with incredible views and an irresistible allure for the wild swimmer who doesn’t need hot temperatures to heed the call of the ocean.

3. Smiths Beach Resort

Smiths Beach is perfect for swimming, strolling, surfing and colourful sunsets, and Smiths’ small luxury resort offers no less. With its spacious and beautifully designed bedrooms, living areas, and balconies (some with panoramic ocean views!), infinity solar heated swimming pool, tennis court and gourmet deli, Smiths Beach Resort makes it an easy choice for anyone craving the ultimate beachside escape.

4. Koomal Dreaming

An understanding of the region is incomplete

Beach Front, 25-metre Infinity Pool, Spa & Steam Room, Full Size Tennis Court, Private Boat Moorings and Gymnasium.

77
to our luxurious Busselton beachfront resort
Welcome
www.theaquaresort.com.au 603-605 Bussell Hwy, Broadwater WA (08) 9750 4200 | @theaquaresort BOOK ONLINE NOW
1. Cape Naturaliste 2. The Aquarium Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse

location—the ocean rushes between the rocks underneath the walk bridge made for ocean proximity.

without immersion into Wadandi Country. Josh Whiteland of Koomal dreaming will take you there. As a Wadandi custodian, Josh uses story, food, landscape, and silence to connect visitors to Country. Tours are diverse. Experience native foods and fire making. Transport with stories of the Dreaming spirits. Experience the wonder of walking in the literal steps of Josh’s ancestors as he walks you through an understanding of traditional land care. Still to the magic of Josh’s didge in a private after-hours twilight tour of the Ngilgi Cave. With a sense of humour as sharp as his eye for salmon, Josh will have you seeing this landscape through fresh eyes.

5. Canal Rocks

Back to the ocean. And with a bang. This is more of a ‘gaze’ than a swim location—the ocean rushes between the rocks underneath the walk bridge made for ocean proximity. It’s a thrill during big swells. There are areas for rock clambering for the adventurous, and walking trails: take the two-kilometer hike to the Wyadup Cliffs for an elevated view of this

part of the coast. And when the sun’s out you can snorkel and swim in the designated areas. Just pay heed to the signs.

6. Eagle Bay Brewing Co.

Continuing with sweeping views over rural landscape and now also the Indian Ocean, Eagle Bay Brewing Co. is a microbrewery, restaurant, veggie garden and vineyard tucked away on a family farm. The family have lived in Eagle Bay for 66 years and established the brewery in 2010, making it one of the oldest independent breweries in WA. Enjoy a vibrant environment and spectacular view at their place over a brewery lunch or late afternoon drinks. All beers are naturally brewed with 4 key ingredients: rainwater, malt, hops, and yeast. All sunshine powered thanks to the brewery solar panels!

7. Wills Domain

Wills Domain Winery in Yallingup has stunning panoramic views of the vineyard through to the rolling hills of the Gunyulgup Valley. The

alfresco deck is arguably one of the best spots to have lunch in the region. Soak-up the relaxing ambience, breath taking views, award winning wines, sumptuous cuisine and great coffee. For more camera opportunities – consider booking your stay the Wills Domain Homestead for a taste of the good life in an unforgettable vineyard setting.

8. Yallingup Lagoon

In a list of eight “graze and bathe” Dunsborougharea experiences, it seems only fitting to finish with the kind of outdoor spot encapsulating this part of the cape’s particular brand of charm—a natural ocean lagoon set inside protective reef with views over the wild ocean beyond. A popular local swimming spot in summer, it’s a sheltered cove to watch sunsets or take fish and chips and a blanket for an easy end of day bite.

For the full Graze & Bathe Trail and more drive trail inspiration, visit driveyourstory.com

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 78
Koomal Dreaming Wills Domain Eagle Bay Brewing Co.
[Canal Rocks] are more of a ‘gaze’ than a swim
79 FISH ‘N’ CHIPS WITH A MEDITERRANEAN TWIST DUNSBOROUGH Phone (08) 9759 1799 Dunsborough Centrepoint Shopping Centre Shop 27A, 55 Dunn Bay Rd Visit us at our NEW website squidlipsduns.com.au WEBSITEADD-ON MENUCATERING SERVICE NEW NEW NEW AUTHENTIC ITALIAN PASTAS AUTHENTIC GREEK MOUSSAKA The perfect take-away option for the beach or the river. Enjoy some today!

Scenic hikes in Dunsborough

As you travel through the Margaret River Region, you’ll notice dramatic changes in the landscape. From the scrubby banksia forests and limestone ridges of the north to the towering karri forests and granite boulders of the south, this is a region of epic biodiversity.

Walking allows you to experience those changes in depth and detail, says local legend Rod Bennett. At 64 years old, Rod has intimate knowledge of many of the region’s best trails, and shares this knowledge through his website, Margaretrivertrails.com

The variation in the landscape is so great, says Rod, that even these three separate walks mentioned below can feel as if you are in a different country.

From the sheltered, azure coves on the

Geographe Bay side, to the raw and wild limestone clifftops of Yallingup, to the dramatic granite outcrops around Canal Rocks, these are three of the most diverse trails in the northern half of the Margaret River Region.

The suggested routes are for independent walkers. For a guided experience, Cape to Cape Explorer Tours, Edgewalkers, and Walk into Luxury all offer guided walking tours about the region and have extensive knowledge of its history and walking trails.

Please keep to existing paths to support growing vegetation and nesting wildlife; tell someone where you are going and when you’re expected to return. Always carry water.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 80
| Tom de Souza

Meelup Beach to Eagle Bay

A 3.3km one way walk, or 6.6km return. Allow one hour one way, or two return.

From Meelup Beach to Point Picquet, the walk is easy, following a limestone tread along the coast. Beyond there, the difficulty increases slightly, and the path is a mixture of limestone, gravel, and granite outcrops.

It passes Gannet Rock, a popular snorkelling spot, and is streaked with white from the resident gannet droppings. It’s a well-known fishing spot, and if you keep an eye out from March through to May, you might see dark black patches of schooling salmon in the azure waters.

Point Picquet is named after SubLieutenant Picquet, who was part of the French exploration crew that in 1801 sailed through this region.

At Point Picquet, the walking trail crosses the Eagle-bay Meelup Road and continues through bushland to Riedle Park.

“It’s quite a long walk, and a little bit harder than you would think. There are a few crumbling surfaces, and a little bit is uphill,” says Rod.

“It’s very scenic though, very beautiful, especially on a nice day. Around every corner there is a postcard view of the ocean. You’re also walking through some low forest, which offers shelter and is quite beautiful.”

81 BUNKERSBEACHHOUSE.COM.AU | 08 9756 8284 FARM BREAK LANE, BUNKER BAY, WA 6281 VISIT BUNKERSBEACHHOUSE.COM.AU FOR TIMES AND MENU OFFERINGS. Book now at A modern beachfront dining experience
Eagle Bay, Dunsborough

Sugarloaf Rock to Yallingup

A 10 km coastal walk through some of the northern Margaret River Region’s most beautiful coast.

It’s a popular misconception that Yallingup, an Aboriginal place name, means “Place of Love”. This is a myth perpetuated by Caves House in the early 1900s to advertise the hotel as a honeymoon destination. In fact, Yallingup means “Place of Land Falling Away”, according to Wadandi elder, George Webb, in his book Noonyabooghera.

This etymology is obvious as you walk along the top of the narrow limestone ridge from Sugarloaf Rock to Yallingup. The track is narrow, challenging and rocky in parts, hard limestone in others. From Sugarloaf Rock, the track climbs the Leeuwin-Naturaliste ridge and looks down at the wild Kabbijup Beach. A few kilometres along, it arrives at the Three Bears surf break where there is a toilet block, a lookout, and stairs leading down to the beach. There is untreated drinking water at the Mount Duckworth camp site.

“This walk is very different. You’re right on the cliff face all the way. You drop down onto the beach at one point, but you’re on top of the limestone cliffs all the way. It’s a great part of the coast, it’s ocean scenery all the way. It’s relatively easy walking, not too many steep hills. Very different to the Geographe side, no forest, and exposed to the weather,” says Rod.

Further along, the track looks back to the Yallingup township, voted by Australian Traveller in 2019 as the best town in Australia. Treat yourself to a cold drink at the Caves House Hotel, or one of the famous lentil burgers at the old top shop, Yallingup General Store

Smiths Beach to Wyadup Rocks

A fairly challenging 4 km that skirts around the Canal Rocks headlands

This has some of the most incredible coastal views in the region, says Rod.

“Of the whole Cape to Cape Track, this is one of the most spectacular parts. I picked it out for my sister when she came from New Zealand. There are steps, and quite a bit of climbing, but it’s worth it for the views. You look back at Canal Rocks and Smiths Beach, which in summer is drop dead gorgeous, best beach in the area, just ridiculous.”

The track starts near the Aquarium, a secluded little nook of rock pools that offers safe snorkelling in summer. From there, it passes the dramatic granite outcrops of Canal Rocks, before climbing up onto the Leeuwin-Naturaliste limestone ridge.

A couple of benches make a great spot to stop for a quick snack or drink, before the track crosses the Wyadup Brook and finishes at the Wyadup Rocks. Here, look for the natural spa in the rocks, or in summertime drop down to the beach at Wyadup for spectacular views back to the Injidup sand dune.

Once you’ve walked up an appetite, try nearby Lamont’s Smiths Beach, Barnyard 1978, and Blue Manna Bistro for a welldeserved bite to eat.

CARING FOR OUR TRACKS & PARKS

The Friends of the Cape to Cape Track Inc. and The Meelup Volunteers are notfor-profit, volunteer community groups who generously donate their time to assist Parks and Wildlife Services to maintain and develop our Margaret River Region parks and tracks.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 82
Sugarloaf Rock, Yallingup The Friends of the Cape to Cape Track Inc. Volunteer Group

Taste

83 CAVES ROAD, YALLINGUP BYO PICNICS CREDAROWINES.COM.AU
our award-winning range of wines and experience how four generations of farming and winemaking led to the glass in your hand.

WOODITJBILYUP

84

MARGARET RIVER

It comes as a surprise to some visitors that Margaret River’s bustling town centre sits roughly 8km from the coast. But the main street never disappoints. There is an indelible buzz to the town centre with a mix of artisan stores and galleries, public street art, diverse drinking options and a good selection of retail shops.

Wineries & Gourmet Dining: Margaret River’s fertile environment gives way to some of the world’s finest wines and produce that good chefs dream of.

Mountain Biking Trails: Margaret River, with it’s rich biodiversity and abundance of space, has garnered attention worldwide as an outdoor recreation mecca particularly for MTB enthusiasts.

Mammoth Cave: The ancient cave system that exists within Margaret River’s costal limestone ridge gives insight to Wadandi and natural history, and the true wonder of this land.

Margaret River: The lifeblood of the town’s fruitful environment, the Margaret River flows through here and culminates at the Rivermouth.

Surfers Point: Generations of professional and amateur surfers alike have flocked here to surf the region’s famous point break - and it’s a good spot to eat fish and chips at sunset, too.

Cowaramup’s Arts Scene: Inspired by the landscape, local artists have put their stamp on Cowaramup. Explore artisan stores, galleries and studios in this unexpectedly creative little town.

TOWN MAP

85
MARGARETRIVER To Augusta Farmer’s Market ROTARY PARK To Cowaramup BUSSELL HWY WALCLIFFE RD FORREST RD CARTERSRD River Walk To Prevelly & Gnarabup Beaches Margaret River Fudge Factory The Little Farm Margaret River Wellness Centre Miki’s Open Kitchen Riversmith Squidlips Fish’n’Chips Hillzeez Subculture Settlers Tavern The River Hotel Sidekick Café Margaret River Liquor Merchants Hillzeez Down South Surf Shop Swings and Roundabouts Margaret River The Local & Cafe Mosaic Pearl’s Bar Normal Van Vasse Virgin Skuhplt Pilates Studio Drift Café Margaret River HEART Margaret River Historical Society Margaret River Distilling Company Margaret River Brewhouse Hairy Marron Cafe John Miller Design Morries Life Cycle Bikes Blue Ginger Fine Foods The Garden Basket Organic Garden 45 min 2.4 km Skate Park
HIGHLIGHTS
Visitor Centre Gallery Restaurant Supermarket Café Pedestrian/cycle path Bar Dining/shopping precinct Gift Shop Green Space

A Curious Compendium: THE BIRDS OF EAGLES HERITAGE

Amazing Grace is a wedge-tailed eagle and resident at Eagles Heritage, a 29-acre sanctuary dedicated to the care and rehabilitation of injured, orphaned and displaced birds of prey. Like most of the birds at Eagles Heritage, Amazing Grace arrived wounded and in urgent need of care. He was found in a paddock near Meekatharra, a town in the Mid-West Region of Western Australia, young, vulnerable, and completely blind. For 15 years, founder Phil Pain provided the necessary care to nurture and rehabilitate Amazing Grace back to health, and he has since regained 80% of his vision.

Phil and Kathy Pain established Eagles Heritage in 1987, and for over 30 years, they rescued, rehabilitated, and released several hundred birds of prey and raised awareness about the importance of birds of prey among thousands of visitors. For the birds that were unable to return to the wild, Phil provided them with refuge, care, and a permanent home, amidst the tranquil native bushland of Eagles Heritage in Margaret River.

After Phil and Kathy’s retirement, the exceptional commitment to conservation and education continues with the Capes Foundation, a not-for-profit organisation dedicated to sustaining their legacy and

continuing the ongoing protection and preservation of birds of prey. More than forty birds of prey call Eagles Heritage their permanent home, and a self-guided journey along the Birds of Prey Forest Walk will introduce you to most of them.

Nestled under towering eucalypts and surrounded by a rich diversity of native plants and wildflowers, Amazing Grace’s home is the first of many humble abodes dotted along the walk trail. Owls, eagles, falcons, and hawks are each provided with a unique environment designed to meet their individual lifestyle requirements, offering visitors a rare and extraordinary opportunity to encounter these magnificent birds of prey up close.

As the trail meanders through the sanctuary, visitors have the privilege of meeting a diverse range of birdlife, including Annie and Chase, peregrine falcons renowned as the world’s fastest animals. This remarkable pair receives ongoing care for their respective injuries, with

Chase having been wounded by a gunshot and Annie sustaining injuries to her wing. Further along, and keeping a watchful eye on every visitor, is Mrs. Brown and Mr. Bebe, the black-breasted buzzards. They keenly observe onlookers from their meticulously adorned nest constructed with sticks and fresh greenery. Terry, the white-bellied sea eagle, is equally captivating with strikingly glossy feathers and a piercing gaze.

Continuing along the trail, you’ll soon encounter the elusive owls and frogmouths. Behold the tawny frogmouths - Huey, Louie, Dewey, and Daphne – showcasing their mastery of disguise by effortlessly masquerading as branches and seamlessly blending into their surroundings. The bush resonates with a rhythmic duet of barking owls as Woofer serenades and tenderly tends to his partner, Twisty. Despite Twisty’s injuries from a car collision, there is hope for potential offspring in the future. The vital breeding programs hold

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 86
Booey the boobook owl Jemimah the tawny frogmouth

promise for yet another successful season. With grey goshawks now laying on eggs, sooty owls roosting in their purpose-built hollows, and a glimmer of hope for the courting grey falcons, Australia’s rarest species of falcon.

Eagles Heritage stands as a testament to the unwavering resilience and dedication of individuals who work tirelessly to ensure the ongoing protection of birds of prey. These remarkable apex predators are not only astounding to encounter and observe but also play a vital role in maintaining the ecological balance of our natural world. Eagles Heritage actively addresses the challenges faced by birds of prey through ongoing rehabilitation and release programs, species-specific breeding initiatives, research, and education programs.

By supporting the conservation efforts of Eagles Heritage and raising awareness about the importance of protecting birds of prey, we can collectively make a significant difference in the survival of these species and the preservation of their habitats. Your visit to Eagles Heritage directly contributes to the ongoing rehabilitation, conservation, and education initiatives dedicated to protecting and preserving birds of prey. To learn more about Eagles Heritage and the Capes Foundation, please visit capesfoundation.org.au.

Eagles Heritage is open to the public Monday to Thursday 10am - 4pm, or 7 days a week during school holidays. Make sure to book ahead for the Birds of Prey Encounter, running twice daily.

87 Open daily from 10:00am - 4:30 pm 422 Harmans Mill Road Wilyabrup Ph: 08 9755 6726 Email: cellard oor@fishbonewines.com.au A unique wine experience, Japanese inspired dining, Located in the heart of Margaret River wine region fishbonewi ne s .c om.au
“I can’t quite take my eyes off him. He is majestic, inquisitive and just like all of the birds at Eagles Heritage, he has a unique tale to tell.”
Tara with Striker Snap a photo with a Bird of Prey at the twice daily Bird of Prey Encounter.

Wine Trails on Two Wheels

How many cellar doors can you hit in one day? Depends how quickly you can pedal!

Love wine but also like to earn those delicious drops of Cabernet? Don’t want to get stuck inside a car all day when the sun is out, and you are surrounded by rolling vineyards and native bushland?

Well, it’s time to ditch the gasoline and power up via some pedal action instead. Cycle tourism is growing in popularity around the globe and it’s here to stay. Not just for mountain bike enthusiasts and those training for triathlons, there are plenty of benefits to getting around on two wheels on holiday. Can’t ride? Now is the perfect time to pick up a new skill!

Do It Yourself

For the ultimate free-wheeling trip, start at The Hairy Marron or Life Cycle Bikes in Margaret River. Chat to the knowledgeable staff who will guide you towards the best option for your skill level and cycling plans. Choose from hard tail or full suspension mountain bikes, or for a completely leisurely option you can have an added boost with an e-bike (electrically assisted). Perfect for beginners, e-bikes will also help make easy work of those hills and any

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 88
WORDS | Cassandra Charlick With over 100 cellar doors dotted across the region, you’re spoilt for choice. And convenient rest breaks.
89
Cape Mentelle

patches of gravel you might encounter on your chosen route.

Cowaramup is perfectly situated to hit the road. Just a few kilometres away lies the Tom Cullity Drive wine trail; complete with 8 wineries and local producers such as the Margaret River Nougat, Margaret River Chocolate Factory, and Providore Gourmet Foods. Start from the top of the trail at Harmans Mill Road and work your way through a number of boutique, family run wineries including Juniper Estate, Montague Estate and Thompson Estate. Each of these cellar door experiences are intimate and will give you a chance to chat with the families that are behind the wine you are tasting. Finish the wine side of things with a different tasting experience at Vasse Felix, the region’s founding winery. With an award-winning restaurant on site, it’s the perfect stop for a bite to eat too. The full loop is about 20km of cruising.

integrity and sustainability are the mantras lived and breathed here under the meticulous stewardship of winemaker Vanya Cullen. Adjoining the vineyard outside, there is a selfguided spiral garden that teaches about the biodynamic processes and principles.

Domaine Naturaliste

The space here is quite literally the domain (pun intended) of acclaimed winemaker Bruce Dukes and is designed for ultimate relaxation. It’s the perfect setting for Domaine Naturaliste’s wine flight: six wines presented at a seated tasting with personalised guidance from cellar door staff. Charcuterie and cheese boards are available.

Fermoy Estate

surrounded by tall gum trees that offer shade on a warm summer day. Inside, seated wine tastings take place alongside a vineyard kitchen that turns out modern casual dining.

Woody Nook Wines & Nookery Café

A mudbrick cottage nestled against a backdrop of marri and jarrah forest and brimming with country charm. The vineyard and winery property, prides itself on being family-owned, small and unpretentious, but achieving consistent acclaim for its premium wines. The Nookery Café has a rustic relaxing atmosphere with both cosy indoor seating and an all weather alfresco dining area. It serves breakfast and delicious, wholesome lunches including a popular loaded taste plate.

experience at Cape Grace Wines – the basket pressed red wines are a highlight. Karri-Davies family has a history in the area spanning back to 1875, including the founding of Margaret River and the building of Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse.

Cullen Wines

For those that like to head a bit further afield, you can jump on the Wadandi Track or ‘rails to trails’ as it is also known. The route follows where the old railway used to run so it’s beautifully flat and very easy to navigate. From Cowaramup travel all the way to Margs and back (15km each way), or steer towards the ocean, where Passel Estate is a beautiful stop on the way. Heading north? Make sure to stop in at Gralyn Estate, the region’s very first cellar door. There are plenty of wineries an easy distance from the centre of Margaret River on bike too. Follow the cycle path along Wallcliffe Road out to Cape Mentelle, or take Boodjidup Road along to Xanadu, Voyager Estate and Leeuwin Estate. The Darch Trail runs from the river along the back of the town and with a short detour you can pop by the Stella Bella

Cullen Wines is one of the most awarded wineries in Margaret River, and one of the founding estates in the region. Quality,

With its buildings painted a Mediterranean hue of salmon, and surrounded by olive trees, Fermoy Estate is a landmark on Metricup Road. Is this the South of France, Italy? It seems like it! The grounds are best enjoyed with a glass or bottle of wine at the picnic tables, or with a grazing board.

Howard Park Wines

One of the most striking, architecturallyawarded cellar doors in Margaret River, noted for its Feng Shui design principles. The vast lawn and grounds provide the perfect backdrop to enjoy the range of tasting experiences - including some knockout private seated, museum wine tastings.

Clairault Streicker Wines

Clairault Streicker features one of the lushest and greenest cellar doors in the area, with manicured grounds and vineyard views

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 90 TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 80 welcome to our table RUSTICO AT HAY SHED HILL CELLAR DOOR RESTAURANT WEDDINGS www.rusticohayshedhill.com.au welcome to our table RUSTICO AT HAY SHED HILL CELLAR DOOR RESTAURANT WEDDINGS www.rusticohayshedhill.com.au
Woodlands Wines red wine of their own. The cellar door is home to the highest international gongs for its Cabernet Parterre wine range at picturesque locations along the way.
Whether you choose to hit the tarmac or cycle trails, there is no doubt about it: a tour by pedal power has more perks than the gears on your bike.
Margaret River Mountain Bike Tours

Where to Stay?

Cape Lodge

The epitome of luxury accommodation in Margaret River, with the appearance of a private country estate, but the trappings of a world-class boutique hotel. The rooms are centred around a picturesque lake and forest, surrounded by manicured grounds, pool, a waterside restaurant and vineyard.

Eight Willows Retreat

The entry into Eight Willows Retreat is striking; a winding driveway that crosses a lake, surrounded by native bushland, with a scenic gazebo perched over the water. Here, 25 self-contained chalets are set on 75 acres of pristine nature, with each positioned for maximum privacy.

Thisarticlewasoriginallypublishedon margaretriver.comandadaptedforprint.

Is this the South of France, Italy? It seems like it!

Get Off The Beaten Track (And Into The Cellar Door)

Those that like to get off the beaten track will appreciate a guided tour with a local mountain bike tour company, taking you to all the hidden spots.

Margaret River Mountain Bike Tours have a range of different tours on offer including Ride to Wine, Ultimate Ride to Wine and Dine, Trails to Ales.

Michael, or better known by the local biking community as ‘Brooksey’, is a nationally credited mountain bike coach and is passionate about sharing his love of biking. Anyone can learn, and with the help of e-bikes it is possible to take families and ‘non-riders’ out to feel the joy of life in the saddle.

Whether you choose to hit the tarmac or cycle trails, there is no doubt about it: a tour by pedal power has more perks than the gears on your bike. From the environmental benefits, health pluses, the post-exercise high, the sense of accomplishment from with trying a new sport…the list goes on. Above all though, cycling is all about slowing down and living in the moment. Exactly what a holiday should be made of.

Book ahead for a guided tasting at Passel Estate, Cowaramup. Passell Estate
92
TALINUP

Augusta town centre often flies under the radar but those in the know love its quirk and charm. Take a stroll down the street and you’ll find eclectic vintage shops and cafés, and a pub with arguably the best view in WA. The Augusta folk are a chatty bunch too and it’s the local pearls of wisdom offered along the way that can make a visitor instantly smitten with the place.

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse: Maritime legend abounds at the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia, situated at the most south-westerly point of Australia where the Southern and Indian Oceans meet.

Hamelin Bay: Share a tranquil moment with a stingray in pristine Hamelin Bay.

Blackwood River: Fish, swim or soak in the serenity to your heart’s content along the Blackwood River, the region’s most significant water source and the longest river in the South West.

Walking Trails: A network of walking trails connects river, bush and sea in and around Augusta, forming pathways into the town’s unique history, flora and fauna.

Eat Abalone: Forget the trims of fine dining; sink your teeth into a piece of locally farmed abalone at The Colourpatch restaurant or at Glenarty Road winery, or pick up fresh abalone from Rare Foods Australia’s Ocean Pantry at the Augusta Boat Harbour.

Whale Watching: Flinders Bay becomes a nursery for the next generation of southern right whales and humpbacks from MayAugust, and whales can be seen in all their glory from boat, beach and lookout.

Boranup Forest: Witness the sheer beauty of the forest, as the rays of the sun glimmers through the majestic karri trees.

93
AUGUSTA
PARK ALLNUT TCE HARDY INLET HILLVIEWRD Boat Ramp To Margaret River To Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse 10 min 1.1 km LIONS PARK Pioneer Memorial War Memorial Turner Caravan Park Augusta Escape Deckchair Café BP Augusta Skate Park Centennial Hall Augusta CRC Blackwood River Houseboats Augusta River Tours The Colourpatch Cafe & Bar BLACKWOOD AVE TOWN MAP Information Hub Accommodation Restaurant Supermarket Café Pedestrian/cycle path Bar Dining/shopping precinct Gift Shop Green Space Gallery
CIVIC
HIGHLIGHTS AUGUSTA Augusta Historical Museum Augusta Hotel Motel

Between Two Oceans: Reset & Renew in Augusta

If you’ve been seeking a way to escape from the fast pace of the modern world, you may just find your perfect retreat in Augusta. Tucked between the Southern and Indian Oceans, Augusta offers serenity in spades. But the unique drawcard of this locale is the perfect opportunity to truly reset and renew in some of WA’s most laid back and environmentally conscious retreats.

The Little House Republic: A

Regenerative Retreat

Nestled in the heart of Scott River, just north of Augusta, The Little House Republic is a prime example of regenerative and sustainable living. It’s more than just a place to stay; it’s a haven for conscious living and environmental harmony, offering guests a chance to reset their pace and focus on the essentials.

The Little House Republic embodies minimalism without sacrificing comfort. Utilising off-grid technology such as solar power, rainwater collection, and composting toilets, LHR demonstrates that living in sync

with the environment doesn’t mean giving up modern conveniences. Its tranquil surroundings – a beautiful mix of coast, forests and meadows – provide ample space for nature walks, bird watching, and stargazing.

Mornings at The Little House Republic begin with the sun gently creeping through the windows, the soundtrack of chirping birds serving as a gentle alarm. Guests can spend the day exploring the surrounding trails, practising yoga on the deck, or simply enjoying a good book by the large picture windows. This is a place that encourages you to disconnect from digital distractions and reconnect with yourself and nature.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 94
WORDS | Rachel Claire The Little House Republic The Shipwright’s Mistress

The Shipwright’s Mistress: Unplug in Style

The Shipwright’s Mistress in Augusta is a true testament to rustic elegance, combining the charm of a maritime theme with the comforts of modern design. Situated right on the banks of the Blackwood River, this in-town accommodation feels remoteand is the perfect spot to renew your spirit while soaking up breathtaking river and forest views.

In keeping with its unplugged and laidback energy, a television is deliberately absent from The Shipwright’s Mistress to provide a more ‘switched off’ experience. Environmentally conscious features include solar power as well as a water-efficient bathroom.

Days at The Shipwright’s Mistress are all about embracing serenity and calm as guests ground themselves by the banks of the Blackwood. Enjoy fishing and kayaking nearby, or venture into Augusta for a taste of local cuisine and seafaring history. If resetting in seclusion is more your thing, get cosy by the woodfire and enjoy a tea while sinking into the peace and quiet that Augusta has to offer.

Getting there is half the fun

Kick back, relax and explore the scenic Margaret River region on one of our luxury road coaches.

Western Australia’s South West is rich in history, culture and stunning natural landscapes.

Our five-star road coaches are fully accessible and air conditioned, with on board entertainment, including on demand entertainment streaming services to your own device, USB ports and toilet facilities.

We travel between Margaret River and Perth 12 times a week and offer a variety of concessional discounts.

Unwind and enjoy the scenery while we do the driving.

Plan your journey by visiting transwa.wa.gov.au or call 1300 662 205.

95
The Shipwright’s Mistress

Molloy Hideaway Holiday Park: The Ultimate Off-Grid Adventure

For the adventurous at heart, an expedition off the beaten track as close to Molloy Island as you can get, presents an unforgettable off-grid camping experience. Molloy Hideaway Holiday Park is located on the mainland side of the Blackwood River and is a secluded paradise offering an unspoiled environment for the ultimate digital detox.

The perceived isolation of the holiday park fosters a deep connection with nature, where time seems to slow down, allowing one to fully absorb the peaceful ambiance. Its rugged beauty, complete with coastal walks and a variety of native flora and fauna, provides the perfect backdrop for camping under the stars and simply reflecting amidst nature’s wonders.

Reflecting on this corner’s natural wonders, embed in your venture to cruise the lower Blackwood River onboard Augusta River Tours

Their tours are a must for birdwatchers and nature lovers as you cruise the peaceful, silky water from the River mouth to Molloy Island and enjoy the scenery and unspoilt wetland ecosystem. Your guide Graeme will share stories and local tell-tales while pointing out species of birds as they rest on the shallow sandbank, and dolphins and fish as they joyfully play in the wake of the quiet boat.

Boogaloo Camp: Detoxifying Body and Mind

Tucked down the southern end of the cape, you might have guessed from their name

that Boogaloo Camp is a top pick for active glampers. The campsite is full of gorgeous bell tents, all ready and set up for you on arrival. All you need to do is unpack, roll out your yoga mat and get your zen on.

Experience Augusta

When planning your holiday abode in Augusta, worth checking too is EXPERIENCE AUGUSTA. Offering a range of quality stays from budget to luxury, there’s something for everyone in this unique little coastal town.

The campsite is unpowered, so this is one for nature lovers who really want to slow things down and have a peaceful stay. All linen is included for up to four people, along with an esky with refreshments. You’ll be able to enjoy hot showers and toilets in a rustic sea container, and if you’d prefer to pitch your own tent that’s fine too.

With a yoga and massage yurt nestled amongst the accommodation, you’ll be able to roll from your mattress to your mat in record time. If you find tranquillity amongst the froth, then grab a surfboard and hit the waves just down the road.

Private Properties: The Flinders Bay House

The Flinders Bay House’s high elevation takes full advantage of its views with large windows and balconies looking out to the Bay. The casual and relaxed living areas make it the perfect space to reconnect with family and friends and the generous, well-appointed bedrooms and bathrooms mean that everyone has their own space. This very special holiday home has been designed to ‘bring its visitors back to the physical world’, and one thing’s for sure, after time well spent at Flinders Bay House you’ll feel a million miles away from everyday life.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 96
Augusta River Tours Boogaloo Camp

At Experience Augusta, we pride ourselves on supplying you with a wide choice in holiday and family accommodation in Augusta WA, and can assist you with your holiday needs, whatever they may be. With over 35 properties available, from budget to luxury, we aim to make your stay in Augusta memorable.

The holiday houses and apartments are well set up for families, couples and many are even pet friendly. Ocean and river views are available in many of the holiday houses and all are self-catering.

97
Pet-friendly accommodation available! experienceaugusta.com.au Ph: 0492 288 086 experience augusta Holiday and short term accommodation

SALES • SERVICE REPAIRS •

From your child’s first bike to the latest and greatest racing machines. Whether it be road, mountain or current E-bikes and tech, we strive to cater for everyone. If there is something you need to know about bikes or cycling in Dunsborough,

BIG VALLEY CAMPSITE

NESTLED AMONGST THE HILLS OF OUR FAMILY OWNED WORKING SHEEP FARM, JUST TEN MINUTES SOUTH EAST OF MARGARET RIVER.

The farm encompasses a beautiful secret valley secluded from the outside world by natural forest. Bring your Caravan, Motorhome or Tent to relax and enjoy the open space, amazing nights skies, friendly farm animals and the family friendly atmosphere. Pet friendly.

Ph 08 9757 5020 bigvalleymargaretriver.com.au

DUNSBOROUGH BEACH COTTAGES

ABSOLUTE BEACHFRONT ON THE SHORES OF GEOGRAPHE BAY

Dunsborough Beach Cottages is situated on the pristine waters of Geographe Bay just 2.5 hours south of Perth. We offer beautifully appointed self-contained 2 & 3 bedroom resort style cottages, including our adults only beachfront cottages.

From here you can walk to the Dunsborough town centre or within a short distance you can experience a range of award winning wineries, galleries and restaurants, making

Ph 08 9756 8885

info@dunsboroughbeachcottages.com.au

Dunsborough Beach Cottages the ideal choice for families, couples or anyone looking to enjoy a beachfront escape in the Margaret River region.

Be sure to visit our website for the latest offers and rates.

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 98 T&T / DIRECTORY Unit 1, 10 Clark Street Dunsborough WA 6281 08 9759 1495 bikesheddunsborough.com.au
HIRE
Yallingup or
Bay, Bike Shed
first stop.
Glamping Experience Self-contained Villas Outdoor Pool, Games Room, Swings and Playground Glampers Kitchen and BBQs Easy access to beautiful Geographe Bay 163 Bussell Hwy, Busselton
08 9752 1175 info@escapetobusselton.com.au busseltonvillasandglampingvillage.com.au www.peppybeach.com.au 48 Peppermint Grove Rd, Peppermint Grove Beach WA 6271 PO Box 639 Busselton WA 6280. Email: holiday@peppybeach.com.au Bookings: 0439 737 791 or 0439PEPPYI Features Include: 60 x Powered and 14 x Unpowered Camp Sites Studios with Ensuites Cooking Facilities for studios in large kitchen/dining area Catering Options available to groups in studios Laundry Camp kitchen and BBQs Mini Golf and Tennis Playground Shop with coffee, homewares and clothing LIQUOR STORE with local wines, beers and spirits GOOD RANGE, GOOD PRICES Bookings: 0439 737 791 or 0439PEPPYI 48 Peppermint Grove Rd, Peppermint Grove Beach holiday@peppybeach.com.au 60 x Powered & 14 x Unpowered Camp sites Studios with Ensuites & Cooking Facilities Laundry Camp kitchen & BBQs Mini Golf, Tennis & Playground Onsite shop & Liquor store peppybeach.com.au
Busselton, Margaret River,
Eagle
Dunsborough is your
Luxury
|

HAMELIN BAY HOLIDAY

PARK

OFFERING UNIQUE BEACHSIDE ACCOMMODATION IN A RELAXED NATIONAL PARK SETTING.

Set on a beautiful bay and taking in the picturesque South West coastline between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, the Holiday Park is 15kms north of Augusta and 30kms south of Margaret River. Choose from well appointed camp sites, caravan sites, cottages and cabins.

bookings@hamelinbayholidaypark.com.au

Ph 08 9758 5540 www.hamelinbayholidaypark.com.au

WISTERIA COTTAGE

REST, RELAX, EXPLORE.

Whether you are here for rest and relaxation or to explore our amazing atttractions we hope you enjoy the peace and tranquility that is Wisteria Cottage. A one bedroom self contained cottage.

31 Dekkers, Rd Deepdene WA 6290

M 0407 084 086 wisteriacottageaugusta@gmail.com

Peace, Love & Cold Beer

Whalers Cove Villa a fabulous beachfront location with 16 self-catering villas, only a short stroll to Dunsborough’s stylish shops and cafes. Make this your base for exploring the Margaret River Region.

whalerscove.com.au

(08) 9755 3699

Old Butter Factory Precinct 76 Peel Terrace, Busselton

Step back in time and see our Busselton Heritage Wednesday - Monday (closed Tuesday) For opening hours, visit busseltonmuseum.org.au

Locally made natural skincare with a focus on chemical free, plant-based ingredients.

Handmade • Small batch • Essential oils Moisturisers • Soaps • Mud masks

Candles • Bath salts • Homewares 31 Dunn Bay Rd, Dunsborough

(opposite Post Office) 9759 1419 • corrynnes.com.au

John Streater has been a pioneer in the West Australian art industry for over thirty years. His bespoke furniture is showcased alongside other internationally recognised artists at his gallery in Yallingup Siding.

99
Wisteria Cottage STREATER GALLERY IS A MUST SEE John Streater Fine Furniture Open: Mon - Sun 10am to 4pm. Ph 08 9755 1211 105 Blythe Road, Yallingup Siding streatergallery@bigpond.com www.streaterfinefurniture.com
COVE VILLAS
3 Lecaille Ct, Dunsborough WHALERS

Origins Market, Shop 5, 86 West Street, West Busselton www.subzerogelato.com.au

Opening hours: Thursday & Sunday 10am - 6pm Friday & Saturday 10am - 9pm

WINE TOURS OF DISTINCTION

MARGARET RIVER’S ORIGINAL AND BEST WINERY TOURS

Half Day and Full Day Gourmet Wine & Dine Tours We visit a selection of the following wineries; Leeuwin Estate, Xanadu, Voyager Estate, McHenry Hohnen and Brown Hill. Full Day tours include lunch at Xanadu. All tours include tasting fees at cellar doors and samples of Margaret River cheeses & chocolate.

Ph: 0419 917 166 info@margaretrivertours.com www.margaretrivertours.com

TALES & TRAILS | margaretriver.com 100 T&T / DIRECTORY
Rivendell WINERY ESTATE Yallingup WA @rivendellwineryestate rivendellwinery.com.au 1172 Wildwood Rd, Yallingup WA
for kids aged 1 to 12 years old. You don’t need to book online before coming in, just remember to bring clean socks. Please see our website for our class timetable and party room availability.
weekdays 9am to 5pm and Saturdays 10.30am to 3.30pm Contact Natalie Du Preez • natalie@vanguardpublishing.com.au TO ADVERTISE IN THE NEXT ISSUE of Tales & Trails
3/40 Station Road, Margaret River 08 9757 9075 ninjasinmocean.com.au Suitable
Open

GETTING AROUND

BY COACH

TRANSWA

Transwa travels from Perth to Margaret River daily with optional drop-offs along the way and returns to Perth the same day, or keep hold of your ticket and return to Perth at a later date. transwa.wa.gov.au

South West Coach Lines

Catch the express coach service connecting Perth, Perth Domestic and Perth International Airport terminals with Busselton, Dunsborough and Margaret River. asouthwestcoastlines.com.au

BY CAR

Margaret River Rent a Car

To see the best of the region, hire a car or people mover form Margaret River – all you need is an interstate or international driver’s license. margaretriverrentacar.com.au

Avis Southwest Car Hire

Explore the beautiful Margaret River Region at your own pace with a rental from Avis Southwest Car Hire in Busselton. One-way rentals are available back to Perth. avis.com.au

Hertz Busselton

Hertz has a great range of cars, people movers, buses and 4WD vehicles to suit all requirements while holidaying in the Margaret River Region. hertz.com.au

Northside Rentals

Located in Busselton and offering an extensive range of vehicles at a good rate. northsiderentals.com.au

IN STYLE

Guided Tours and Private Chauffeurs

Without a doubt, the best way to fully relax and experience the Margaret River Region scenery and attractions is letting someone else to the driving and planning. Let the region’s local experts and guides show you around their own backyards; pick from fully inclusive tours and charters with ultimate curated itineraries, to private chauffeurs with your own hand-picked destinations and pick-ups. margaretriver.com/plan-your-trip

101
Discover the southwest with Avis.
avis.com.au
our locations at Bunbury, Busselton and Busselton-Margaret River Airport.
1800 679 880 |
With
Kombi Cruz

Our Back Story

Tens of millions of years ago, long before humans walked the earth, something happened in this remote corner of the planet.

The continents of Australia, India and Antarctica were joined at one point in the supercontinent of Pangea. As Pangea divided, a piece of Australia began to pull away from the mainland as the continents of India and Antarctica divided. A geological island-within-an-island was formed, surrounded by three seas; connected to the rest of Australia by a land bridge.

This island was spared the ravages of ice during the ice ages and desertification during drier periods. This land became a sanctuary for an exceptional abundance of plants and animals to survive, thrive and evolve. Life here flourished.

For over 60,000 years this land has supported one of the world’s longest, unbroken human occupations, resulting in an immensely deep cultural knowledge and connection to the land. It is the traditional land of the Wadandi Aboriginal people; the Saltwater People.

The Wadandi have lived here through the last ice age. They have adapted and survived through tens of thousands of years through an intrinsic knowledge of how to care for, and benefit from, the abundance of this refugium.

This land has changed in many ways during this long history. Yet, today, it remains a place of immense significance and of rich biodiversity. People come to share in the culture and environment of this place, and to gain from an appreciation and understanding of nature and life at its best.

This place is known today as the Margaret River Region on Wadandi Boodja.
1/16 Cyrillean Way Dunsborough Tel: (08) 9786 5051 WWW.BLUEMANNABISTRO.COM.AUW W W . A R A V I N A E S T A T E . C O M
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.