Myanmore Magazine - No.38/December 2019 by MYANMORE

No. 38 /December 2019 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free!

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CELEBRITY UNMASKED

PAING ZAY YE TUN

THE YANGON CHRISTMAS GUIDE ACTIVE HOLIDAYS! CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

New Year’s Eve Set Dinner + Countdown Party

5-COURSE SET DINNER INCLUDING A GLASS OF BEER OR WINE 6.30PM-1AM (COUNTDOWN PARTY STARTS AT 10PM) $60 NET PER PERSON (DINNER + COUNTDOWN)

New Year’s Eve Countdown Party

10PM-1AM | $25 PER PERSON FREE FLOW CANAPÉS, SOFT DRINK, BEER & WINE

dj kandi k

dj midnite

Christmas Day Buffet Dinner Join us this festive season at our annual Christmas Day Buffet Dinner event.

Christmas Eve Set Dinner

Feast on an international spread of dishes including free flow of soft drink, beer and wine, along with welcome cocktails and canapés.

Feast on a 5-course festive set dinner inclusive of a glass of wine.

Live band music accompanies your festive evening, and be sure to take part in our lucky draw for a chance to win attractive prizes.

This Christmas Eve, join us at our Christmas Eve Dinner event decked with the trimmings.

Live jazz music accompanies your festive evening. 24th December 2019 | 6.30pm–10.00pm | $49 net per person

25 December 2019 | 6.00pm–10.00pm | $39 net per person th

(+95) 1 371 992 / (+95) 9 263 440 500

info@theroseyangon.com

www.theroseyangon.com

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019 (+95) 1 371 992 / (+95) 9 263 440 500 info@theroseyangon.com www.theroseyangon.com

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

magazine

No. 38 /December 2019

Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson

Editor

Min Ye Kyaw

Sub Editor

Megan Grace Clark

Editorial Assistant Hsu Myat Lin Naing

Cover Photo

Zwe Wint Htet

Location

Yangon Excelsior

Photography

Khiri Travel Luke Davies Susan Bailey Wai May Kyaw

Contributors

Edwin Briels Gam Seng Maw Mary Banfield Min Pyae Sone Morris Averill Nay Thiha Sam D. Foot Susan Bailey Tom Sanders

Art & Production Zin Wai Lin Phyo Thu Kyaw

Publisher

Cinema 8

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Cover Story

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Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On 6

Paing Zay Ye Tun: Celebrity unmasked 12

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Sales & Advertising

Feature

sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

The Yangon Christmas Guide 16 Christmas & New Year Celebration 18 The Yangon Vegetarian Survival Kit 24

Disclaimer

Travel

Active Holidays! 20

Eat & Drink

Pan Cherry Noodle House & Cafe 26 Spruce Pansodan 28 New Openings 29

Arts 30

Sports 32

Rangoon Rhythm 31

Tech Talk 33

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur.

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MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

What's on Uncaged with James Leatham and Muttiah Ashnim

FAB #95 - Yangon’s queer club night

Pocari Sweat Run 2019

14th December 2019

15th December 2019

Uncaged is back at LEVEL 2. Time to unleash your demons. Don’t forget your dancing shoes.

FAB is going to say goodbye to this amazing year with two parties on Saturday the 14th and Saturday the 28th. Come and celebrate with us.

Pocari Sweat Run 2019 is coming to all runners in a short time. Register here http:// bit.ly/2mmKhjn to participate in the event naming “That’s Why We Run” on Dec 15th.

The MAZE CLUB - 34/C , East Horse Race Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon | from 9:30 pm

Shwe Htut Tin - East Horse Race Course Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon | 4:30 am - 12 pm

The Secretariat 130th Anniversary Celebration

Myanmar International Fashion Week

As a Celebration of the Secretariat 130th Anniversary, join for a weekend of shopping, exhibitions and entertainment.

The biggest fashion show in Myanmar, organized by John Lwin, the founder of Star Event Production and Stars & Models International will take place from the 20th to 22nd of December at the Central Boulevard.

13th December 2019

LEVEL 2 - Yangon International Hotel Compound ,Dagon Township, Yangon | from 11 pm

Sunset Boat Party 14th December 2019

In a return to its roots, the boat party will feature the finest selection of Yangon DJs playing compelling sets of the latest music. Join this dancing on the newly renovated boat. DJs will play swelling beats from House Music to Gypsy, Breaks to Hip Hop and Electronic music. Ticket Price is 15,000 Kyats (1 free Beer). Tickets are available at ROOT Kitchen, Gekko Restaurant Yangon. Botahtaung Jetty - Near Botahtaung Pagoda, Seikkan Tsp | 4:30 pm - 8 pm

Eat for Climate Change

14th December 2019 Chefs from Parasol & Satay Shack will prepare a sustainably curated dinner, complete with locally-sourced seasonal ingredients and traditional flare. The four-course dinner, plus canapes, will be plant based with line-caught seafood and include a cocktail pairing at each course. 30% of proceeds from ticket sales will support Golden Ground - Myanmar Organic Farmer Field School in Thar Mai San Village, Shan State. This small, grassroots organisation is working to help local farmers and the environment. For more information, email inquiry@conyatcreate.com or call 09 892 007441. Parasol - Inside the French Institute, No.340, Pyay Road, Sanchaung Township, Yangon | 7:30 pm - 10:30 pm

GLAM

14th December 2019 Let’s rock to the best of the 80’s with DJ Andro. Chill downstairs or dance the night away upstairs. Either way, you’re guaranteed to have an amazing night. Give away for best dressed 80’s costumes. 5,000 kyats entrance fee. Knob N’ Knockers Bar & Grill - KaBaAye Pagoda Road, Pearl Condo Tower D, Unit G-12, Bahan Township, Yangon | from 8 pm

14th & 15th December 2019

The Secretariat - No.300, Thein Phyu Road (Middle Block), Botahtaung Township, Yangon | 9 am - 5 pm

The Strand NEW YEAR’S EVE COUNTDOWN PARTY 31th December 2019

As 2020 approaches, The Strand Yangon will be transformed into a lavish party venue that The Great Gatsby himself would be proud of. From 7pm onwards on 31st December, there will be live music in the Sarkies Bar, while in the lobby, clips from nostalgic black and white festive films will be projected onto the walls, before a clock appears to count down the final hours, minutes and seconds to midnight. From 10pm onwards, a sextet live band will play in the lobby and revellers will be invited to toast the arrival of the New Year with a glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne. The countdown party is open to guests of The Strand Restaurant, Café, Sarkies Bar and in-house guests. For reservations or more information, contact 01 8 243377 Strand Hotel - No.92,Strand Rd,Kyauktada Tsp | 6:30am - 10pm

Yangon Zay x Food Panda | A Pink Christmas 14th & 15th December 2019

Sustainable concept market featuring exciting foods, vendors as well as other exciting pop-ups curated especially for family fun weekends. .

20th to 22nd December 2019

The Central - Corner of Kabar Aye Pagoda Road & Kan Bae Road, Yankin Township, Yangon

Saigenji from JP in YangonYangon 21st December 2019

Saigenji is in Yangon for the first time. From Japan, Saigenji will bring you passionate jazz, soul and Brazilian tunes. You don’t need to go all the way to the Fuji Rock Festival this time see him right here in YangonYangon. YangonYangon - No.339, Bo Gyoke Aung San Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | From 7 pm

Promotions Eat, Drink & Be Merry at Babett At Babett, we understand that Festive time is a period best shared with family and friends, so our Executive Chef Christophe Buzare has created a menu filled with joy and deliciousness. From 15th December to 10th January, enjoy a selection of Festive dishes and drinks such as Quail and Foie-Gras Tourte, French Oysters, Smoked Salmon Mille-Feuille, La Cote de Boeuf Charolaise, Violet Macarons and a very poetic Purple Rain Gin & Tonic... just to name a few! Babett - No.5,Alan Pya Pagoda Road, Dagon Tsp | 7am - 11pm

The Tea Factory - No.2, Kanyeiktha Street, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Mayangone Township, Yangon | 12 pm - 8 pm

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Sedona presents: Symphony at the Lounge Delight in classic sounds by the Chromatic Orchestra, an 18-piece strings orchestra as you savor exquisite selections from delectable high tea buffet. Happening all Saturdays of November and December from 3:00pm to 5:00pm for US$ 28nett at Lobby Lounge. For reservations, please call +95 1 8605377. No-1 Kabaraye Pagoda Road, Yankin Tsp, Yangon. | 3pm - 5pm

Ocean Pride New Menu for Sweet December Ocean Pride introduces their new set menu for Sweet December which includes Ocean Pride Seafood Grill Platter with the taste of Saint Grand Rouge Red Wine for adding the delicious aroma of the roast and vinaigrette. Both of Ocean Pride Seafood Grill Platter and Saint Grand Rouge Red Wine with only 35000 MMK is a worth to try as Ocean Pride is waiting to serve you with a taste of delicious Seafood roast and wine. No.20, Thukawaddy Street, Yankin Tsp, Yangon. | 10am - 10pm

Enjoy your meal, Enjoy your time The Heaven Bistro is a unique place for those who would like to enjoy a variety of food & drink. The nightscape of the Heaven Bistro is filled with Special Promotions. One who has a taste Beer Tower, will be served delicious Bite Platter with FOC for each and every Myanmar Beer Tower. There will also be a 20% discount for all types of cocktails & mocktails. For those who prefer Food, there will be a 10% discount for all menu items.

The Strand’s Elegant and Modern touch to December The Strand Yangon yet again brings an elegant and modern touch to the traditional Christmas and New Year celebrations, from a large Christmas tree made of champagne bottles in the lobby, and Moët & Hennessy cocktails in the Sarkies Bar from 2nd of December, 2019 until 6th of January, 2020. This Christmas Eve at the Strand Restaurant, Chef de Cuisine Xavier Fauvel has curated a six-course Christmas Eve dinner menu that includes a welcome glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne priced at US$ 98 per person. At the Strand Café, celebrate Christmas Eve with a special four-course menu including a welcome glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne priced at US$ 49 per person. On Christmas Day, a festive brunch will be served at The Strand Café, including dishes such as foie gras, house-smoked salmon, oyster, ceviche, salmon gravlax, salt-crusted barramundi, roast Australian beef, and dessert favourites. The Christmas Day brunch is priced at US$ 49 per person and includes a welcome glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Ring in 2020 in style with a six-course gastronomic dinner menu curated by Chef de Cuisine, Xavier Fauvel at The Strand Restaurant priced at US$ 129 per person that includes a glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne on arrival. At the Strand Café dine on a four-course dinner that includes a welcome glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne priced at US$ 69 per person. All prices include tax and service. The Strand Cafe - Strand Hotel,No.92,Strand Rd,Kyauktada Tsp | 6:30am - 10pm

No-4 Wingabar Street, Bahan Tsp, Yangon. | 11am - 10pm

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Cinema

Now Showing Last Christmas

Comedy, Drama, Romance

Nothing seems to go right for young Kate, a frustrated Londoner who works as an elf in a year-round Christmas shop. But things soon take a turn for the better when she meets Tom, a handsome charmer who seems too good to be true. As the city transforms into the most wonderful time of the year, Tom and Kate’s growing attraction turns into the best gift of all – a Yuletide romance. Cast: Henry Golding, Emilia Clarke, Michelle Yeoh & more.

Coming The Aeronauts

Action, Adventure, Biography

In 1862 headstrong scientist James Glaisher and wealthy young widow Amelia Wren mount a balloon expedition to fly

higher than anyone in history. As their perilous ascent reduces their chances of survival, the unlikely duo soon discover things about themselves – and each other – that help both of them find their place in the world. Cast: Felicity Jones, Eddie Redmayne, Himesh Patel & more.

Star Wars: Episode IX - The Rise of Skywalker

knowledge of generations behind them, the final battle commences.

Action, Adventure, Fantasy

The surviving Resistance faces the First Order once more as Rey, Finn and Poe Dameron’s journey continues. With the power and

Cast: Adam Driver, Daisy Ridley, Billie Lourd & more.

Jumanji: The Next Level Action, Adventure, Comedy

In Jumanji: The Next Level, the gang is back but the game has changed. As they return to Jumanji to rescue one of their own, they discover that nothing is as they expect. The players will have to brave parts unknown and unexplored, from the arid deserts to snowy mountains, in order to escape the world’s most dangerous game. Cast: Dwayne Johnson, Jack Black, Kevin Hart & more.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Spies in Disguise

Animation, Action, Adventure

Super spy Lance Sterling and scientist Walter Beckett are almost exact opposites. Lance is smooth, suave and debonair. Walter is not. But what Walter lacks in

The Aeronauts

social skills he makes up for in smarts and invention, creating the awesome gadgets Lance uses on his epic missions. But when events take an unexpected turn, Walter and Lance suddenly have to rely on each other in a whole new way. And if this odd couple can’t learn to work as a team, the whole world is in peril. Cast: Karen Gillan, Will Smith, Ben Mendelsohn & more.

Cats

Comedy, Drama, Family

A tribe of cats called the Jellicles must decide yearly which one will ascend to the Heaviside Layer and come back to a new Jellicle life. Cast: Idris Elba, Taylor Swift, Ian McKellen & more.

Ip man 4: The Final

Action, Biography, Drama

Martial Arts master, Donnie Yen is back for the final installment of the Ip Man Universe franchise in Ip Man 4: The Finale, directed by Wilson Yip. Ip Man’s life remains unchanged after his wife’s death, MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

but he and his son are slowly drifting apart. To seek a better future for his son, Ip Man decides to travel to the U.S. only to find the stable, peaceful life abroad is only skin deep. Underneath lies a deep rooted racial discrimination that is far worse than he has expected. Ip Man re-examines his position and ponders on the reason he took up martial arts in the beginning. Cast: Scott Adkins, Donnie Yen, KwokKwan Chan & more.

Tie

Drama, Romance

A Burmese romance and drama film by Nyi Nyi Aung Myanmar with a story from Min Khite Soe Zan and Htet Myat Naing Zin. Cast: Nay Toe, Thet Mon Myint, Shwe Thamee & more.

Check out more updates on myanmore.com/cinema.

Airline of the Year for fifth time Our passengers are our first priority and at the heart of everything we do. It is with great pride that we have been awarded Airline of the Year for the fifth time - a world-first for any airline â&#x20AC;&#x201C; along with Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Business Class, Best Business Class Seat and Best Airline in the Middle East as voted by 2019 Skytrax World Airline Awards. Thank you for making us your airline of choice. qatarairways.com/mm Call +(95-1) 925 5040 Contact your preferred travel agent * Skytrax is acknowledged as a global independent aviation industry monitor. Results of the 2019 World Airline Awards are derived from more than 20 million passenger surveys involving passengers from around the world.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Cover Story

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

PAING ZAY YE TUN: CELEBRITY UNMASKED Words by Sam D. Foot We are deep into the second episode: the intrigue is tangible and the spectacle is bizarre to say the least. Zawgyi has performed a memorable duet with zego bird, the dragon, tiger and alien have repeatedly medlied, and Phoe Wa Yote’s performances have been as perky as his mythical character. A raucous exchange of jokes and questions from the judges and it is decided that the tiger’s journey is over. The slender man dressed from head to toe as a silky feline stalks carefully to center stage. After an eternity of teasing, he lifts his hood to uncover a plume of perfectly coiffured long dark hair. Everyone in attendance goes absolutely berserk as Myanmar’s biggest heartthrob reveals himself. We are watching the country’s latest hit television show, Channel ME’s The Mask Singer, and I am sat with its host, Paing Zay Ye Tun. “I really am extremely proud of Paing Takhon. What he has done for Myanmar in other countries is amazing.” The enthusiastic outburst in reference to The Mask Singer’s first revealed star - the tiger, model Paing Takhon - is

Paing Zay’s first in fluent English. Through his careful and famously handsome gaze bursts a serious glow: no doubt he sees much of his younger self in this rising star. The Mask Singer is a light-hearted spectacle celebrating New Myanmar’s love of joshing around, singing, and celebrity. It is also host to the latest incarnation of Paing Zay Ye Tun, one of the most publicly discussed Burmese celebrities of the past twenty five years. Adapted from the much loved American format featuring Robin Thicke, Nicole Scherzinger and co., the Myanmar version similarly sees judges and audience vote on the singing abilities of outrageously costumed celebrities, then guess their identities before each is eliminated. The Myanmar version is, in keeping with the whims of the nation, more offbeat, light hearted and humorous than its American counterpart. Charismatic and charming, Paing Zay keeps the energy going with a star studded line-up of judges that includes eminent comedian Ah Yine, hugely popular actress Khine Thin Kyi, singer-actor Tun Tun, and youthful starlet Yadanar My.

Myanmar Celebrity The franchised show is incredibly well-suited for Myanmar, a country which equally cherishes and villifies celebrity status, and one which lives for a song and a joke. Paing Zay Ye - the Phoenix-like sportsman, actor, host, and businessman - typifies this particularly Burmese phenomenon of ‘cele’ more than most. No matter what career path he has followed, fame, success, and public attention have never been far behind. Now, at forty-two, over half of his life has been lived under this spotlight.

smooth as velvet persona, Paing Zay Ye Tun was a born scrapper - determined, gritty, and realistic from the go. Growing up in a rural area within which his father, a soldier, was posted, his circumstances changed dramatically when the family breadwinner lost a leg after an incident in the unrest of the late 1980s, forcing a relocation to Yangon and leaving the young Paing Zay to fight for his place in the city. His father’s role in providing for their family in the face of disability instilled morals which have defined the actor’s career; tenacity, integrity and family.

“My career has not been linear, and although I always see myself succeeding, I am never sure what comes next,” says Paing Zay. “It has been a story of luck, and of being in the right place at the right time and of making the right connections,” he adds, humbly. Indeed, the host’s is a tale of survival, of accidental fame in an uncertain period for Myanmar celebrities.

At nine years old, Paing Zay found an outlet for his competitive nature and sporting abilities, discovering his early passion, Taekwondo. “After competing in Taekwondo for only eight months, I entered my very first contest. I won and received a Sony cassette player as a prize. I was so happy and proud. From that moment I always tried harder to be a champion.”

Fighting Fame

From here, the young Paing Zay rose to become Myanmar’s preeminent Taekwondo competitor. By his mid-teens he was defeat-

Despite the razzamataz and glitz of The Mask Singer, and its host’s

Photo by Gerhard Joren.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

ing all challengers en route to the Chiang Mai SEA Games of 1992. Then fate played its hand. “In the Chiang Mai tournament I broke my leg. I was about seventeen years old and, since then, my life was never the same.” The broken leg proved a crossroads in his life. Always practical, this injury convinced him that he could never make a living as an athlete in Myanmar. Fortunately, he was not allowed to dwell on his misfortune for too long. In his Taekwondo class was a young Naing Lu (now an actor famed for his villainous roles). Naing Lu was adamant that his own future lay in showbiz, particularly modelling. Whilst Paing Zay was working as a clerk at No.1 Ministry of Industry - for 1600 Kyats per month - He escorted Naing Lu to an audition. Yet, instead of the chubby Naing Lu, it was Paing who was talent scouted. The accidental model accepted the job on the proviso that he was paid ten thousand kyats - “I didn’t even know what a model did, but this was a huge pay increase!” Paing Zay’s famous career in front of the camera began through pure circumstance.

Paing Zay’s second break came in his first modelling pageant - the “Biggest Show in Myanmar” - held at the old Trader’s Hotel. From here, the Sinma Furniture Company approached him to be the face of their brand on television. The accidental model became the accidental actor and, soon after, actress Kyi Lai Lai Oo signed him for more television work. “From here, the work just flowed.” remembers Paing Zay, “I had no intention to be famous, and I had no idea if I would enjoy it or not. I was doing it to make a living, and it relied on my good luck.” After achieving huge popularity with the ‘Great Wall’ traditional medicine commercials, the big time beckoned; “In 1997 I signed a contract with a production house to commit to between eighty and one hundred and eighty movies” - a huge number for a young star. “However, in these days there was no support and no training schools. I had nobody to guide me and I was still young and a bit wild. I reneged on the contract after a few years - I had become an actor by chance

and was not really committed to it at this stage.” Regardless, the few films that Paing Zay managed to star in became huge successes with urban audiences. “A film I made twenty years ago was recently recreated by the same director. After it aired, he called me and said ‘Paing Zay Ye Tun - you played it better!’ - this meant a lot to me especially as the director, Maung Thi, was my childhood hero, Lwin Moe’s brother.” During this period he also put out a film which he considers his favourite work: the comedy Swal Sarr Pa Lite Tot (“Just Do It”) - which also gained significant urban acclaim. All of this stardom, he says modestly, was a result of luck and not natural talent. Comparing his story to those young celebrity talents exhibited on Myanmar’s new range of television shows, he is full of both praise and caution. “I came up in the last generation of Burmese celebrities - and many of those are no longer on the scene. The notable exceptions would be people like Nine Nine and Sai Sai

Kham Leng. We are self-taught and tough. These new Myanmar stars are trained from birth. Even in shows like Myanmar Idol, those that come out on top are natural talents that have been nurtured a lot more than my generation… however, many do not seem to have the same kind of originality or longevity as before, and maybe that is a symptom of the new system.” A Very Public Romance Dropping into a discussion of celebrity lifestyles, Paing Zay reflects: “People like Sai Sai did well because they had a great PR team and never married. They were focused on their image and chasing this career.” This contrasts with a crucial theme in his story, and at this point the actor begins discussing his own high profile marriage to Zin Thae Naing. The outward displays of wealth and affection between the two put them firmly amongst the most publicly influential couples in the New Myanmar. “When I became famous, every single person in Myanmar want-

“When I became famous, every single person in Myanmar wanted to know who I was going to marry. At the time, Thae Thae was young - she was 18 and I was 28 - so we eloped. She always supported me - especially my acting career - despite me not being entirely convinced. Even in the dark times, times when I made unforgivable mistakes, she forgave me. She is everything to me.” 14

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

ed to know who I was going to marry. At the time, Thae Thae was young - she was 18 and I was 28 so we eloped. She always supported me - especially my acting career - despite me not being entirely convinced. Even in the dark times, times when I made unforgivable mistakes, she forgave me. She is everything to me.” In this vain, the couples’ romantic social media exchanges are, predictably, extremely popular with the public. Renewed public interest after his marriage once again thrust Paing Zay into the celebrity spotlight: “After marriage we quickly had two children. After our children were born, the focus came back to us and producers once again wanted to make a contract. I signed it, returned to the screen, made a few movies, and left the industry once again.” By the late 2000s, Paing Zay Ye Tun was once again one of Myanmar’s most loved celebrities, yet acting was no longer his priority. “I am lucky that my fans have always had great affection for me as a celebrity. I don’t make movies continuously and there’s always a time gap between my movies, yet the audience always remembers me and I’m still treated as an experienced actor. However, I have always wanted to prioritise other sides of my career. Being a CEO or MD has always been most rewarding to me - I was never a party boy, I was fond of sport - of health, wealth, and family.” Paing Zay Ye Tun, CEO Business success and wealth for his family has always been the endgame for Paing Zay Ye Tun. He and his wife have successfully begun the transition from celebrity to notables in Myanmar’s business community, but this has not always been a smooth road largely thanks to the critical eyes of the general public. Five years back, Paing Zay took a call from Phoe La Pyae - grandson of U Than Shwe, singer, and great supporter of the art and pop culture scene in Myanmar. This led to him accepting the lead roles in Phoe La Pyae’s early music videos - many of which were covers of Enrique Inglasias numbers. “Phoe La Pyae called and said I was one of his favourite actors. From then on we became like brothers. Even now he is the landlord of the

building from which I operate my business.” Around the same time, Paing Zay’s wife established the successful gem and jewellery company, Julia’s Collection Gems. Last year, the export arm - Art and J Myanmar - began operations. Paing Zay himself is director of a portfolio of companies including real estate and automobile ventures and his new event planning businesses Channel 39 and Mega 39.

“When I was young, I wanted to be successful in my career so I greatly desired other people’s attention. As I have matured, I have tried to keep a lower profile - tried not to affect people with

However, the rise of his entrepreneurial family has not come without a degree of unwarranted scrutiny. In a country where celebrities are at once very close to the public yet are also elevated above them, the pervasive role of social media is a huge double-edged sword.

my actions as a celebrity, or to be af-

“When I was younger, the media attention was absolutely unbearable. There were not many famous actors back then, and every single time I left my house the paparazzi would hound me - they had very little news to write about and needed to find something juicy. It is better now, as social media creates all kinds of news on a huge number of celebrities - it is easier to be yourself these days if you keep a low profile on social media.”

up, fame was a necessity that got me to

fected by harsh words against me - and to focus on my businesses. When I was younger, sport was my fun. As I grew where I am today. Now I am older, my businesses are what will provide for the future of my family - my wife, my children and my parents.”

Cele: Generation Next

Mask Singer is one prime example. Myanmar Idol, MasterChef, Model Academy, and Myanmar’s Got Talent thrive on people’s incessant interest in the career trajectories and stories of those participating. Paing Zay says that it is a relatively new phenomenon - with one notable exception; “I did enjoy Myanmar Idol, but I think it is more crafted and produced than previous Myanmar talent shows. The decade old “Melody World” was my favourite. Talents like Ni Ni Khin Zaw have lasted the test of time, and I believe are more authentic. However, Aung Htet, winner of Eain Mat Sone Yar has really convinced me of his great talent since releasing an original album. In this respect, it pleases me that Myanmar is now developing the systems to nourish and hone the talents of these young stars - it is different to how it used to be.”

The Myanmar public’s intense interest in celebrity is typified in the new wave of show of which The

And, with this new raft of celebrities coming through, what is next for Paing Zay Ye Tun? “When I

Despite this, the family found themselves subjects of an intrusive nationwide witchhunt a few months ago, with massive speculation being generated by the chattering netizens of Myanmar concerning business affairs and Paing Zay’s family. “People put a lot on facebook without even thinking... anything really. So news spreads fast. My wife and I refuse to post anything on Facebook except posts that are not controversial. Three of four months ago my wider family got drawn into a public debate on Facebook - but it’s all exaggerated fake news.” He reflects. He makes a point of saying that throughout his career it has been imperative to uphold his dignity whilst followers of celebrity consistently hunt out weak points and slipups.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

was young, I wanted to be successful in my career so I greatly desired other people’s attention. As I have matured, I have tried to keep a lower profile - tried not to affect people with my actions as a celebrity, or to be affected by harsh words against me - and to focus on my businesses. When I was younger, sport was my fun. As I grew up, fame was a necessity that got me to where I am today. Now I am older, my businesses are what will provide for the future of my family - my wife, my children and my parents.” Expect to see Paing Zay Ye Tun continue to host upcoming seasons of The Mask Singer. However, in his own words, it will be his last TV show. Crucially, prepare to see him adopt the mask of ‘businessman’ more often in this next phase of his glittering career.

Feature

THE YANGON CHRISTMAS GUIDE Tis the season, Yangonites! Christmas time is here. We know everyone will be busy while getting their jobs done before the holidays arrive. Some of you may have planned ahead for a joyful Christmas Eve but some may not. For those who have yet to make plans, this is our essential guide for feeling festive in Yangon during the Christmas season.

Buy A Christmas Tree A Christmas tree is a must in every household, whether Christian or Buddhist. It’s almost 2020 - come on guys! Grab one from CityMart supermarkets or, if you live in Sanchaung or Pazundaung, head to Spirits Accessories or Sweet Heart Fancy Shop for your desired size of Christmas tree. These stores will also offer all necessary colorful ornaments and lights accessories in one place. The moral of the story: it’s not so hard to get a Christmas tree in Yangon nowadays (despite the fact that many, if not all, of them are artificially made...) Prices start from 16,500 Kyats.

Queue Up Your Christmas Playlist It’s like a cigarette and a lighter. It won’t feel as complete as Christmas unless you have a Christmas playlist. These days, international music subscription services such as Spotify, Amazon Music, Apple Music, JOOX and Youtube offer a huge number of playlists of all genres. Sort out one of these subscriptions and curate your own cheesy playlist for the yuletide. JOOX and Youtube are free in Myanmar. Here is the list of the most famous Christmas songs of the decades. All I Want for Christmas Is You - Mariah Carey Last Christmas - Wham! It’s Beginning To Look Like A Christmas - Johnny Mathis Feliz Navidad - Jose Feliciano Jingle Bells - Love to Sing Mistletoe - Justin Bieber Santa Tell Me - Ariana Grande Jingle Bell Rock - Bobby Helms

Make Gingerbread Cookies Ever wondered how to make these Christmas gingerbread cookies? Well if you’ve tried before, I bet you absolutely love Christmas holidays. For those of you who haven’t tried yet, don’t worry! There are tutorials all over the internet - simply jump into your kitchen and get baking! I recommend www.gimmesomeoven.com. Here’s where to get your ingredients and supplies in central Yangon: Baker’s Mart Myanmar - 69/131, Maha Bandula Road, Botahtaung Tsp Tel: 09973346256 STK Bakery Supply Shop - B4, Aung San Stadium (North), Gyo Phyu Street, Mingala Taung Nyunt Tsp Tel: 09 260 247 771 Star Bakery Equipment Supplier - 277, Bo Aung Kyaw Road, Middle block, Kyauktada Tsp, Tel: 01 381075

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Cook Dinner If you are feeling more adventurous than simply baking cookies, why not go all the way and cook a Christmas dinner for your family. There are many Christmas classics, and I’m sure everyone has a good idea of what they’d like to prepare. Roasted meats, pies, potatoes, hams, Foie Gras and many more rich and decadent treats - with Christmas fast approaching, it’s time to think about what you are going for. When serving delicious appetizers to sweet desserts be warned! If you serve your loved ones these tasty dishes as part of your holiday spread it is highly likely that they will demand to have it back year after year. Here’s our few ideas, take a look at the internet for recipes. To buy your ingredients, I recommend Marketplace by Citymart. Dry-Brined Lemon-Rosemary Roasted Turkey Glazed Sweet Potatoes Tangy Cranberry Meatballs Mini Hasselback Potatoes with Chive Butter Red Pepper Jelly and Orange Glazed Ham Sour Cream Smashed Potatoes with Bacon Crumbs Roasted Tomato and Garlic Tart Chicken Drumsticks and Vegetables in Mustard-Tarragon Sauce

feature many vendors with a variety of fusion food and snacks, accessories, clothing, entertainment, a playground for kids, and, of course, a giant Christmas tree! On 23, 24 & 25 December, Yangon City Christmas Festival will be set from Holy Trinity Anglican Church (in front of Junction City) to Bogyoke Road, Bo Aung Kyaw and Thein Phyu Roads from 6:00 pm - 11:00 pm with entertainments, music, feasts from charible associations to all comers including 6 stages in total all the way. Concurrently, the festival will also be held at Thakinmya Park, Ahlone township and Insein Park, Insein township.

Go Ice Skating Although Christmas in Yangon is typically a hot and humid affair, you can still choose to feel the chill and go ice skating. Royal Sportainment Complex, an indoor stadium consisting of ice-skating rink and bowling alley, has provided a new recreation space for Yangonites since it’s recent opening in May 2019. The very first Ice Skating stadium in Myanmar includes cafes and restaurants for your refreshment options. It is open for skaters of all levels – from first-timers to the more advanced - but fees are fixed for all ages. Children under eight years old must be accompanied by a parent. One session lasts 90 minutes and costs 15,000 Kyats per pax.

Make A Selection Of Christmas Movies

Royal Sportainment Complex - Taw Win Road, 9 Mile, Yangon Tel: 09 677 788893

Whether outgoing Christmas party animal, or cosy Christmas hibernator, one vital thing that everyone will revert to at some point over the festive season is a list of romantic Christmas movies to see at your place while putting a blanket, with cozy vibes and a glass of hot ginger ale or hot chocolate. Here’s my suggestions from 90s’ to today’s all time favourites. And if you love going to the theater, Last Christmas starring Emila Clarke and Henry Golding is showing on Yangon’s big screens.

Wear Ugly Sweaters

Home Alone (1990) Love Actually (2003) The Holiday (2006) Bridget Jones’s Diary (2001) Holiday Inn (1942) Christmas in Connecticut (1945) White Christmas (1954) It’s a Wonderful Life (1946) The Knight Before Christmas (2019) Klaus (2019) The Santa Clause (1994) The Nightmare Before Christmas (1993)

Go to the Christmas Markets Christmas markets (or Christkindlmarkt as they are known in festive Germany), are not typically found in Yangon.... Until now! BKK Night Market Group hosts it’s monthly special Christmas Market from 19 to 30 December at the Junction Square promotion area. It promises to

While no one may want to take the credit for ugly clothes, this tacky kind of holiday cheer has become a widespread festive tradition across the world. So, friends and couples, why don’t we celebrate it in Myanmar? The National Ugly Christmas Sweater Day is celebrated annually on the third Friday of December each year - this year falling on Friday the 20th. Rock your sweater with pride, all day and all night, from the time you wake up till the time you sleep. No breaks. No cop outs. No excuses. The sweater must stay on. Get yours before the holidays arrive. Aliexpress/ Alibaba/ Amazon now ship to Myanmar.

Go Out For A Festive Walk After battling the Christmas feast, you may feel like taking a walk to explore Yangon’s Christmas lights and decorations - most of the major landmarks and churches have now begun putting up installations for the festive season. Giant Christmas tree or glittering lights, here’s a roundup of where to see those in Yangon. Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon (Outside) Junction City Sule Square Mall Mahabandula Park People’s Park St. Mary’s Cathedral, Yangon Myanmar Plaza Shopping Mall Junction Square Promotion Area Novotel Yangon Max

Throw A Party If you’re out of ideas, why not throw a cosy Christmas Eve Party at your place! In Yangon, you never know what’s going to happen with these house parties! Grab some packs of beer, sausages, snacks and keep the neighbours awake with your cheesy music playlist. Decorate with Christmas lights, play board games, beer pong, Truth or Dare - or just sing Carols and keep it traditional! Whatever your Christmas vibe, simply gather your friends, family, and colleagues on this special occasion that promotes goodwill to all. Marketplace by Citymart has everything you need for a house party.

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Feature

CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS

CHRISTMAS DINNER Christmas Eve Set Dinner | 24th December 2019 Gather your loved ones to celebrate Christmas Eve at Rose Garden Hotel Yangon on the 24th of December with mouthwatering and exquisite dinner prepared by a unique team of exceptionally talented and passionate culinary chefs. Indulge yourself to a 5-course dinner including a glass of Red or White wine while listening to the splendid tune of jazz music for only $49 net per person. Get your tickets now at our Hotel Reception. For reservations, call 01 371992. Rose Garden Hotel - No.171, Upper Pansodan Street, Near Kandawgyi Lake, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 10 pm

Olea’s Festive Dinner | 24th December 2019 Olea’s Spanish chef has prepared a unique menu for the Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve. Dinner at US$65 net per person, including unlimited sparkling wine, red & white wine, beer and soft drinks. Please call 01 934 5000 to reserve your table. Melia Yangon - No.192, Kabaraye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 6:30 pm 10:30 pm

Elegant Christmas| 24th and 25th December 2019 Celebrate Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with your loved ones at Le Cellier restaurant, located on the 14th floor of Novotel Yangon Max. On this special occasion, unwind and make unforgettable memories while indulging a 5-course menu with a glass of wine or bubbly to choose from for US$ 69 net per person. Available for Lunch or Dinner on Dec 24th and Dec 25th. Le Cellier - 14th Floor of Novotel Yangon Max, No.459, Pyay Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon | 12 pm - 2:30 pm and 6 pm - 10:30 pm

Christmas Dinner Buffet | 24th and 25th December 2019

Christmas Day at Savoy Hotel Yangon | 25th December

2019

Relax and celebrate with a scrumptious 5-course set menu by the pool, surrounded by Christmas cheer, the twinkling of lights and sparkle of decorations. SANTA might show up this year. The menu including drinks package 5 course set menu with amuse bouche US$ 80 (net per person) US$ 65 net per person (vegetarian) including welcome sparkling wine, red wine, white wine & coffee and tea. Contact us for reservations at 01 526289. Savoy Hotel Yangon - No.129, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 12 pm 10:30 pm

SKY Christmas | 25th December 2019 Christmas time is here. Yangon Yangon hosts the event for Christmas Night with Shin Phone, Khin Bone and Yuzana. Ticket price is 20,000 kyats with free flow beer and snacks. For ticketing please contact 01 255131, 01 255255. YangonYangon - No.339, Bo Gyoke Aung San Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 7:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Bubbly X’mas JAZZ evening with Bamboo Trio | 25th December 2019

It’s time to celebrate festive evening with belated friends and family. Gather around with your friends at Atlas and enjoy our special offer while Bamboo Trio is playing cool Jazz & christmas songs throughout the evening. Contact for reservations 09 767 419413. YangonYangon - No.339, Bo Gyoke Aung San Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 7:30 pm - 10:30 pm

Christmas Day Buffet Brunch at The Strand | 25th

December 2019

Celebrate this Christmas in style with your loved ones and indulge in Yangon’s most dazzling Christmas Dinner Buffet Feast at Emporia Restaurant. US$ 60 net per person including free-flow red/white wine and draught beer. For more information or to place your order, please call 95 1 544500.

On Christmas Day, a festive brunch will be served at The Strand Café. This brunch buffet includes dishes such as foie gras, house-smoked salmon, oysters, ceviche, salmon gravlax, salt-crusted barramundi, roast Australian beef, and dessert favourites such as Christmas Yule log and fruit tart. The Christmas Day buffet brunch is priced at US$ 49 per person, plus tax and service, and includes a welcome glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne. Call 018 243 377 for reservations.

Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon - No.40, Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 10:30 pm

The Strand Café - The Strand Hotel, No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 11 am - 2:30 pm

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NEW YEAR COUNTDOWNS Myanmar Premium CountDown | 31st December 2019

Thuwunnabhumi Event Park - Thanthumar Road, Between Shwe Ingyin Housing & Chanthar Gon Yaung Housing, ThinganGyun Township, Yangon | 4 pm - 12 am

an experience of Earth where you will get to enjoy hearty & earthy food such as stewed and roasts, continuing with taste of Air including of light foods and snacks, then the heat and spiciness of Fire such as hot grilled meats will be served to you warm and lastly, a taste of Water which include fresh seafood, delicious soup and water based desserts will be served to you. Free flow alcoholic beverages such as beer, wine and 4 Elements themed cocktails and mocktails and free access to New Year’s Eve Pool Party are included as well. It will be a New Year’s Eve experience like nothing else. For reservation call 09 444088881.

The Mandalay Countdown 2019 | 31st December 2019

Novotel Yangon Max - No.459, Pyay Road, Kamayut Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 10:30 pm

Brave Entertainment brings the brand new Countdown Festival to Mandalay on December 31, proudly supported by Bawdar Beer.

New Year’s Eve at The Strand Restaurant | 31st

The biggest New Year Countdown Party in Yangon, “Myanmar Premium Countdown 2020” is set on 31st December at Thuwunna Bumi Event Park. Time to Dance, Peace, Love, Unite and Celebrate the New Year’s Eve with the Top Names in the Electronic Dance Music.

Yadanarbon Event Park - Mandalay | From 4 pm

December 2019

Celebrate your New Year’s Eve at Savoy! Let’s dine and smile as we say goodbye to the old year and say “hello” to the New Year that will come. Enjoy dinner while our unplugged band The Bucket List is playing blues and slow rock songs throughout the evening. Contact for reservations at 01 526289.

Ring in 2020 in style with a 6-course dinner menu curated by Chef de Cuisine, Xavier Fauvel and his team at The Strand Restaurant priced at US$ 129 per person that includes a glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne on arrival, plus tax and service. Open to guests dining at The Strand Cafe or The Strand Restaurant on New Year’s Eve, bring in the New Year 2020 in unique style in The Strand Hotel Lobby. Enjoy this New Year’s Eve countdown party with a glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne on the house and dance 2019 away with live band, New Direction’s exquisite tunes. Contact 018 243 377 for table reservations.

Savoy Hotel Yangon - No.129, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Township, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 1 pm

The Strand Restaurant - The Strand Hotel, No.92, Strand Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon | 6 pm - 11 pm

The Light of Wyndham Grand - New Year’s Eve Party 2020 | 31st December 2019

New Year’s Eve Set Dinner & Count Down Party 2020 | 31st December 2019

Wyndham Grand Yangon organizes “The light of Wyndham Grand” New Year’s Eve party with R Zarni, Wai La, Ni Ni Khin Zaw, Project K and DJ Bay Tar. Ticket price is US$ 110, US$ 130 and US$ 150. For ticket information please contact 01 937 7188.

New Year’s Eve is one of the biggest celebrations of the year for many people. It’s a great time to spend together with your family and friends as you say goodbye to the old and welcome the new. Featuring a 5-course dinner and a glass of wine or beer on the 31st of December along with a complimentary entry with New Year’s Eve Countdown Party – Crazy Joker Night Theme featuring DJ Kandi K. For reservations, please call us at 01-371992.

New Year’s Eve ‘20 Countdown dinner | 31st December 2019

Wyndham Grand Yangon Hotel - No.11, Corner of Kan Yeik Thar Road & U Aung Myat Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon | From 7 pm

Chatrium MET GALA - New Year Countdown 2020| 31st December 2019 Celebrate the end of 2019 and welcome 2020 in grand style at the Chatrium Metropolitan New Year Countdown with an amazing international buffet dinner with free-flow wine, beer and soft drinks so you can celebrate this most special time of the year with friends, family and all your loved ones and make memories to treasure forever at Yangon’s top New Year’s Eve event. Ticket Price are USD 120, USD 100 and USD 80. For party tickets, please contact to 01 544 500 (or) E: sales.chry@chatrium.com. Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon - No.40, Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township, Yangon | 7:30 pm - 11:59 pm

Welcoming 2020 | 31st December 2019

Rose Garden Hotel - No.171, Upper Pansodan Street, Near Kandawgyi Lake, Yangon | 6:30 pm - 10 pm

LOTTE Countdown 2020 | 31st December 2019 Electro-Light Music Night Countdown 2020 with singers Phyu Phyu Kyaw Thein, Hé Lay, Eint Chit and more entertainment to be participated. Plus, fantastic lucky draw and amazing fireworks. All priced at US$ 110 per person includes special Buffet Dinner with wine, beer and soft drinks. For accomodations, spend US$ 300 in Junior Suite with breakfast and dinner for two persons, New Year Countdown tickets for two persons and entitled to purchase Deluxe Room including breakfast with US$ 100 voucher. Valid stay from 1 December to 31 December 2019. LOTTE HOTEL YANGON - No.82, Sin Phyu Shin Avenue, Pyay Road, 6½ Mile, Ward 11, Hlaing Township, Yangon | 8 pm - 12:30 am

Novotel New Year’s Eve buffet will be themed 4 Elements where they willl be bringing you the essentials of life – Earth, Air, Fire and Water. For Us$ 59 net per person, New Year’s Eve at the Square will give you

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Travel

ACTIVE HOLIDAYS! Are you already planning on your New Year’s resolution for 2020? For many people, New Year’s resolutions include starting a healthier lifestyle and doing more exercise, hence this month’s column is all about active holidays in Myanmar. Till not so long ago, visiting Myanmar was thought as going to see temples which is no longer the case. It’s definitely possible to have a fantastic 2 weeks holiday in Myanmar without visiting any temple, pagoda or monastery (although I would argue that you should certainly include the Shwedagon pagoda in a trip to Myanmar). Active holidays in Myanmar include various options including trekking, biking, water based activities, and some unique sports. The list below is just a fraction of what’s possible and I hope it inspires you for the next holiday in Myanmar.

Walks through Kayah village

Trekking – Shan State, Kayah, Chin and Rakhine state Hiking, trekking, tramping or simply going for a walk; basically the same word for using your legs to transport yourself from A to B while enjoying the landscape, villages, people, and fields along the way. Considering Myanmar’s climate, it’s best to go for trekking in the mountains where the temperature is a bit cooler. A very popular route among backpackers is the 2 or 3 days trekking from Kalaw to Inle Lake. It is an easy walk with beautiful scenery which can be a bit crowded in the overnight village. Quieter alternatives are trekking in Hsipaw and Kyaukme area in Northern Shan state with stunning scenery, friendly and welcoming Shan and Palaung villages and, as an extra bonus, the spectacular train ride over Gokteik viaduct. Just make sure you always go with a licensed guide and don’t wander into restricted areas. In southern Shan state, the Pindaya area offers fantastic views with colorful patterns of different crops scattered across. There, you can choose for a day walk or continue for up to a 5 – 6 days trekking close to the Ywa Ngan coffee plantations. Trekking can even be focused on your interests: People into orchids can do special orchids walks in Ywa Ngan, while people looking for tribes could do a trekking along the 3 lakes (Inle, Samkar and Pekon) to visit PaO and Lisu tribes and if you are interested in the work of a forest ranger you can walk with the rangers in Minzontoung to see the Burmese star tortoises. A bit further south the Loikaw area invites for some good day walks through Kayak villages including the famous long neck women. In for some more off the beaten track areas? Consider Chin state with tattoo faced ladies or the Rakhine Mountains (I once did an overnight trekking arriving 2 days later in Thandwe in search for beautiful hornbills). When organizing a trekking trip, always make sure you have a good local guide who knows the area and local conditions as the weather can quickly turn around, road (or path) conditions can change and in case you twist an ankle or run out of drinking water it’s always good to have a local person with you to communicate with and arrange a safe return. Check the trekking package conditions; are you supposed to bring a clean sheet, is food included, will luggage be transported separately, how to get to starting and ending point etc. And as always in nature, keep the area clean and leave nothing than your footprints behind.

Water based activities As Myanmar has a long coastline, several lakes and rivers, there are possibilities for water based activities and I do hope more entrepreneurs will look into this opportunity to create more activities to do in the future. Kayaking can be done in Hpa An area (it’s pedaling through the paddy fields and very much focused on enjoying the scenery rather than a sport) and on Inle Lake. Some rafting operations have started in Kalaw and in Northern Kachin state and there are professional diving operations in Ngapali, Ngwe Saung and Myeik Archipelago. While Myanmar coral reefs aren’t like the Great Barrier Reef, it’s still fun going on a snorkel trip while visiting Ngapali or Ngwe Saung or the southern island.

Kayin State

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Biking Growing up in the Netherlands, I always assumed that everybody knows how to use a bike (how else are you supposed to go to school, office, get your groceries etc.?). I now know that some people consider it a sport yet I personally still think it’s simply a good way to move forward and it’s excellent to do some sightseeing and stop wherever you want. So before even continuing about the topic “biking”, make sure you tell your guide / travel company that you want to do biking for fun and as part of the sightseeing and NOT consider participating in a biking race. Bikes are popular for day trips and excellent to discover more of the temples of Bagan (as an active alternative to the popular electric bikes) and to go around in Mandalay. Other fun day trips with a guide are in Dala (across the river from Yangon) getting to Inle Lake (from Aung Ban or Thaung Lay Lone) or biking around Inle Lake. Several companies organize multiple day trips on a bike (and transport your luggage separately to the next point) and these companies do know the routes to avoid biking on a busy road. It’s possible to bike all round Myanmar, from Yangon to Kaw Thaung or even onwards to Singapore (ask Jochen from Uncharted Horizons about his trip!). Most people have little time so doing Mandalay to Bagan by bike, Nyaung Shwe to Samkar Lake or a 2 days trip from Bagan to Salay and return by boat all makes sense and is a very different way to get to know Myanmar countryside. Always check what kind of bike you will get (a good mountain bike versus a simple Chinese made bike makes a lot of difference in comfort but also in budget), make sure you know how brakes and gears work and clarify there is no “backtracking” involved in the trip as biking back the same way always kills the fun of the trip.

Trekking in Northern Shan State (3)

Local sports to try In search for more activities during your holiday? Try to participate with some of the local sports like Chin Lone, kicking a bamboo ball with the legs or head, it has professional competitions held in Mandalay once a year or the more casual games with friends in a circle played in every village around Myanmar towards the end of the day. Lethwei boxing is a form of Burmese boxing getting more popular thanks to the Myanmar champion Aung La; the Kayah or Kayin version of this sport is very interesting as well or try to participate in the practice for the festive boat races held for example in Bagan, Inle Lake or Mrauk U. Having friends or family coming over to Myanmar or planning a long weekend with the family? Get away from the classic temples sightseeing and consider an active holiday instead! Edwin Briels is MD of Khiri Travel Myanmar and has been working for over 15 years in travel in Myanmar and will share his experiences travelling in Myanmar in a monthly column. Khiri Travel 01 375 577 khiri.com – edwin@khiri.com

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019 Biking - @Grasshopper Adventures

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MIA RUBY: UNIQUE DESIGNS, LOCALLY MADE, SUPPORTING MYANMAR WOMEN As I enter a beautiful jewellery store at 79 Pansodan Road, I’m greeted by a lovely little girl bouncing around the store, trying to get her hands on the sparkly merchandise. Her name is Mia Ruby, and she is the name sake of her mother Amber Cernovs’ jewellery store. Amber, an Australian development worker, lived in Yangon for over four years and when her daughter was born, she wanted her middle name to reflect the beautiful country that had touched her heart. She decided on Ruby as a “keepsake and memory for having spent her early years here,” says Amber with a broad smile. This middle name selection exercise led her to ponder the possibilities of buying rubies – the world’s best – in the country of its origin. Thus began the ruby research and the origin of her jewellery store, Mia Ruby.

It’s hard to find gems that are responsibly sourced these days and until the end of 2016, the US government still had sanctions on Myanmar rubies because of the military control of ruby mining in the country. So Amber was left with a quality quandary - she really didn’t know what to buy or if she was looking at red glass instead of real ruby stones. This got her started in gemological studies at the Gemological Institute of America; which has a campus in Bangkok.

The uniqueness of Mia Ruby’s gems comes from the Mogok family they trade with. Their stones are neither heat-treated nor coloured, Mia Ruby also asks the family to only source their

stones from non-military owned mines. The gems are cut in Mogok itself, which provides a livelihood to Myanmar gem cutters. The majority of Myanmar’s gems are smuggled out of the country and

This sparked a deeper interest in Myanmar’s gems and led to a visit to Mogok in central Myanmar, which has been famous for centuries for having the best rubies. The marble and rock formation has occurred in a way that leaves the stones with the richest color in the world. Experts say the best rubies in the world come from this one valley in Myanmar.

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most get cut in Thailand, meaning local artisans miss out on benefiting from this hugely valuable natural resource. “I want to add value to Myanmar” says Amber. Every product in Mia Ruby is sourced, designed and made in Myanmar, giving more opportunities to local Myanmar people and adding value to the economy. Once she had sourced the very best gems, Amber then began designing her jewelry, which is modern but with a Myanmar twist, a product that appeals to everyone. The Mia Ruby shop was a natural next step and it is now located on Pansodan St, right next to Rangoon Tea House. When the time came for her to leave Myanmar and travel back to Australia, Amber encouraged

Mia’s two nannies to expand their horizons and take a chance on a new career; an opportunity that they embraced! Like so many Myanmar women, Kry Sar and Mee Chaw were smart, keen and hard-working but faced a mountain of social and economic barriers that stopped them being able to take charge of their own lives. Amber was blown away by their willingness to learn the business and within a year of having launched Mia Ruby she decided it was their time to take over the shop. “I really want to give them an opportunity to have a better life too,” she says with tears in her eyes.

draw their inspiration from, she says that although it’s a modern take, the designs are inspired by Myanmar culture. For instance, the Mandalay-weave design; taken from the royals’ attire and crafted into an intricate ring or necklaces with words such as “love” and “happiness” written in the Burmese script, sprinkled with a few jewels for a touch of positive affirmation. Recently they have added “Yangon” and “Mingalaba” to the collection, as well as a tribute to the rare orchid flowers of Myanmar. These floral inspired designs stand as a recognition for Myanmar’s natural beauty.

Amber still helps the team to design Mia Ruby’s jewelry and regularly travels back to Yangon. When asked about where they

When talking about the process of designing and finally creating a product, Amber animatedly points to their drawings, which they send to the workshop where the jewelry draftsmen redraw the image perfectly. The design is printed via a 3D printing software into a wax mould, into which, liquid gold is poured, once the jewelry is cast, the gems are then set by hand. Mia Ruby’s silver jewellery is hand-made by Myanmar women. This focus on empowering Myanmar women is a perfect match with Mia Ruby’s values. For example they are collaborating with Khin Thida Khine, a single mother who runs K.K Designs with her amazing handcrafted works. Another product of Mia Ruby, is a new line of handcrafted spinel pieces in 18k yellow gold.

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At Mia Ruby only Myanmar gems such as rubies, sapphires, spinels and peridots are used to create their beautiful jewelry. Amber tells us that in purchasing a coloured gem, there are the 4 C’s to be aware of - color, clarity, cut and carat. When purchasing a ruby, or any coloured gem, colour is the most critical of these. Myanmar rubies are known to be the best in the world because of their rich-red coloring “Pigeon’s Blood” which is sold at the highest prices. What sets Mia Ruby apart is their modern designs with a local twist, their passion for more responsible and sustainable approaches to making jewelry, and a mission to empower Myanmar women. So the next time you want to treat yourself or buy the perfect keepsake from Myanmar, make Mia Ruby your first choice. Responsibly sourced, beautifully designed and made locally, a true reflection of Myanmar jewellery.

Address: 79 Pansodan Road, Kyauktada Township, Yangon. Tel: 09 253 675 518 Hours: 9:30 am – 5:30 pm

Feature

Photo by Wai May Kyaw and Luke Davies.

THE YANGON VEGETARIAN SURVIVAL KIT Beware Yangon, for a worldwide vegetarian revolution in on the table. For locals tempted to join this mass movement, for lost vegetarians and travellers, here is your Yangon Survival Kit with advice from nutritionists, vegetarians and chefs on how to stay meat-free in Yangon. In many nations, Israel, Australia, India and Sweden over one in ten people are vegetarian and the number is rising year by year. Myanmar is no exception as an increasing number of locals and expats seek a healthier and socially responsible diet. The green sprouts are shooting throughout Yangon as a host of vegan or vegetarian friendly restaurants realise the commercial value of a diverse menu. Even so, there are challenges for vegetarians, it’s still not that easy.

Eating Out

Five years ago, to ask for a meat free dish in a restaurant “would raise eyebrows,’’ said vegetarians Wai May Kyaw and Luke Davies. “While it’s easier today, it’s still tough to eat like a vegetarian, especially keeping it somewhat healthy and not only filling up on rice and noodles!” said Breanne Baildon, a nutritionist. Online Information: The international service, HappyCow.com is your best resource for a vegetarian, or vegan meal from New York to Shanghai. Twenty-two restaurants in Yangon are listed as vegetarian or vegan friendly.

Favourite restaurants:

Taj Indian-Nepali Vegetarian Restaurant, offers traditional Indian and Nepali dishes. Soe Pyi Swar Vegetarian Centre offers an extensive menu of traditional Burmese dishes. The Old Eain Café has a selection of breakfast or lunch dishes, and also supplies traditional Myanmar snacks and sweets, such as jaggery that is made from the sap of toddy palm trees. For contemporary vegetarian dishes try Healthy Me, Sprouts, & Nourish Café. Language: It’s not always easy to find a restaurant that has a clear vegetarian option but there are ways to ask for a meal without meat or fish. “‘That That Loot’ is the word for vegan”, meaning ‘free from killing

lives’ says the Myanmar Vegan Society. For those of us who are not fluent Burmese speakers try various pronunciations. That’s is not completely foolproof. “From what I understand most restaurant staff don’t consider oysters or shrimp sauce to be vegetarian.” Saying: “No ‘ngan pya yay’ (fish sauce); No ‘nga-pi’(fish paste) and No ‘ka-yoo-see’ for Oyster sauce. Try your best but don’t get upset if it doesn’t work, ``said Baildon. Vegetarian Myanmar Dishes: Most traditional salads are reliably vegetarian. Try Tea Leaf, Pennywort, Silky Burmese Eggplant Salad or egg rolls or for a snack try Moat. Become a regular: Once you’re a regular at a restaurant the waiters will know your favourite dishes and how to make them. When you find a place that’s respectful of your dietary needs then stick to them. Home Delivery: For a lazy night at home use yangond2d.com for a home delivery from your favourite vegetarian restaurant. Check the menu at the door: I you walk into an unfamiliar restaurant ask for the menu before sitting down. If there are no vegetarians option, you can subtly walk away. Otherwise a waiter may pick up that you need help if you stand looking intensely at the menu. Use Images Not Words: An image has no language barriers. Find an image that says, ‘no meat, no fish’ and show it to the waiter. Home Vegetarians: Yangon Farmer’s Markets are held at Karaweik Gardens in Lake Karaweik, one of three markets held around Yangon. It’s here you you can pick and choose the healthiest veggies. For those who are time pressed the Go Green shop offers healthy food options and is open every day. Alternatively, Kokkoya Organics delivers vegetables from the farmer to your door. Since opening in 2017 the service has become highly popular and reached maximum capacity. In early 2020 Kokkoya will be expanding and until then anyone is welcome people to add their names to a waiting list. MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Eat & Drink

PAN CHERRY NOODLE HOUSE & CAFE: SERVING MANDALAY’S BEST NOODLES SINCE 1978 When it comes to dining, Mandalay residents have no shortage of options. The city has, according to most, Myanmar’s best food. From morning till night, foodies can feast on delicious noodles, traditional snacks, fresh barbecue and more at a reasonable price. But as rent prices go up and lifestyles have changed, many of Mandalay’s smaller dining institutions have been replaced by fast-food shops and convenience marts.

northern Shan State, to Mandalay. With only a few kyats to his name, U Kyaw Zawl found an old garage on a side street and set up a small shop he named Pan Cherry Noodle House. He began selling Shan noodles from dawn till dusk and quickly word spread about his delicious dishes. But the early success did not cause him to rest on his laurels. He pushed on, determined to make Pan Cherry the best noodle shop in the area.

But Pan Cherry Noodle House & Café has stood the test of time, recently celebrating its 40th year anniversary. The humble shop, a simple two-story building with an open-air ground floor and a small air-conditioned cafe above, belies the intricate flavors and textures of their signature Shan noodles. It’s because of these tasty bowls of noodles that Pan Cherry has a legion of fans, in Myanmar and overseas. What many of the fans don’t realize, however, is the backstory of how the restaurant came to be.

‘The old man is the most hard-working person I have ever known’, remarked his son, Nay Win Oo, who went on to sing the praises of his mom who worked alongside U Kyaw Zawl. ‘She is the only person in the world who can match his dedication. She raised all four of her children in her baby sling while making noodles.’

It all started in 1978 when U Kyaw Zawl moved from Kyauk Me, in the

As the family grew, so did the business. In the late 90s, they moved Pan Cherry around the corner to its current location on 25th Street. The ground floor was used as the café and kitchen and the family lived upstairs. The hard-working couple served enough bowls of noodles and

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

saved enough money to eventually send their son, Nay Min Oo, to the United States for university. While his parents were running Pan Cherry in Mandalay, half-way around the world Nay Min Oo met May, another Burmese student. The two were studying at separate universities in the state of Virginia but happened to meet at a special semester program. The state’s slogan ‘Virginia is for Lovers’ turned out to be true- they fell in love and, after graduating, the young couple married. Upon moving back to Mandalay in 2015, the newlyweds first stop was at Pan Cherry for a bowl of Shan noodles. To Nay Min Oo, the shop felt like home but for May, it was her first visit to the family business. ‘I was very curious why this restaurant has existed for nearly 40 years and what made it so special that old customers come every morning for a bowl of noodles’, May said. She quickly found the answer to Pan Cherry’s longevity and popularity: the food! In a city filled with tea shops and noodle stalls, it is the food at Pan Cherry attracts regular customers. One couple, who runs a stall at nearby Zaycho Market, has been coming nearly every morning for decades. Another group of retired ladies have been dining at Pan Cherry so long that they remember when a bowl of noodles cost only a few kyat. And countless tourists have made Pan Cherry a daily pit stop on their Mandalay itinerary- they come once for a meal and find themselves returning the next day and the next! For May and Nay Min Oo, seeing these loyal customers and other enthusiastic diners sparked their interest. Although they never had any intention of getting involved in the family restaurant business, they saw Pan Cherry as a way to blend their love of food with their entrepreneurial spirit. And fortunately, the timing was perfect. U Kyaw Zawl handed over the management of the restaurant to his son and daughter-in-law not long after their return to Myanmar. Since then, the shop has continued to thrive. While much has remained the same, there have been some small, subtle changes over the last few years. New items have been added to the menu such as chicken wings, which are now one of the most popular items. The upstairs of the shop has been converted to a coffee-shop style setting, ideal for students or friends looking for a quiet respite from the Mandalay traffic and heat. May has been hands-on in helping to improve the dining experience without shaking up the low-key vibe of Pan Cherry. ‘When I started managing this restaurant, I learned about new ingredients, recipes, and cooking techniques. I also shared my home-cooking techniques with our kitchen staff. This mutual learning has led to a great improvement in our dishes,’ May adds. Being involved in the business has also provided May with the answer to her original question: What is it about Pan Cherry’s noodles that make them stand out from the others? Although sourcing the freshest and best quality ingredients is important, she has discovered that ingredients, only, are not enough. ‘Just like Mr. Ping from the movie Kung Fu Panda said, ‘’there is no secret ingredient’’. Every noodle shop in Mandalay uses the same basic ingredients; however, every one of them has its own ways of preparing Shan noodles,’ May states. The recipes and methods used by U Kyaw Zawl in 1978 has been perfected over time and that is why every dish from the Pan Cherry kitchen is delicious. With the young, enthusiastic couple now at the helm and the Pan Cherry reputation continuing to grow, it’s very possible that the restaurant will be around for another 40 years. May and Nay Min Oo are planning to open a second branch with bigger space and more artistic decoration soon. But the original shop will remain open, a family legacy that is one of a kind in Mandalay city. Address: 25th Street between 82nd x 83rd Streets, Mandalay Tel: 09 797194038 , Opens at 7am – 8pm MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Review Review

SPRUCE PANSODAN: HIDDEN GEM WITH A JAPANESE FLAIR Nested at the top of a luxury block of flats opposite the Rose Garden Hotel, The Spruce is hardly the kind of place you would stumble upon. In fact, it took me the better part of fifteen minutes to find it, wandering through what appeared to be a construction yard, groping blindly and calling out fearfully. Eventually, I stumbled into an apartment building, into a lift and was hoisted to the top floor, where lo and behold, there it was. The Spruce is part of a Singaporean chain that has now opened its first branch here in Myanmar, perhaps because of the better electricity supply, according to one Myanmar minister. Although the restaurant was deserted when I arrived, the staff told me they get some traffic from the wealthy inhabitants of the housing estate, as well as Japanese diners looking for a taste of home. The effusive manager of the Spruce explains that the restaurant identifies as Japanese European fusion, offering distinct breakfast, lunch and dinner menus. The menu itself is impressive in its breadth, and caters to a wide variety of potential diners. Find yourself thirsty at 8am? You can get a glass of red or white wine for only four dollars. In the mood for an English breakfast? No problem. Ramen more your thing? The Spruce have you covered. I decided to swing by for the lunchtime options - available from 11am to 2.30pm. The Spruce offers a gourmet set lunch for ten dollars, starting with a soup, and ending with the chef’s daily dessert. One dollar more will get you a homemade coffee or tea. The Japanese/Asian options include a variety of gyoza, bento boxes, Japanese style curry and spicy pork ramen, while pasta lovers can get beef cheek tagliatelle or chicken carbonara. Meanwhile, the “Spruce Specialties” include the Spruce Burger and Fish and Chips. Naturally, I felt obligated to order myself a fish and chips. Furthermore, I asked for a Kirin at 12pm and was served a pint, which argued well and set the tone for the rest of the meal. Let’s take a quick moment to appreciate the Spruce’s selection of drinks. Guinness (notoriously hard to get due to Myanmar booze licensing laws) and Hoegaarden are available by the bottle, as are about twenty whiskeys ranging from ten to two thousand dollars (for the Hankey 40 year Bannister.) Despite repeated requests, this reviewers

drinks budget could not be stretched to accommodate the 12 year Hakushu at a cool 450 dollars a bottle. Wine aficionados will also find themselves well catered for, with French, Italian, American, Aussie and Argentina varieties available by the bottle. My partner ordered the Salmon teppanyaki (US$ 7). The flavor of the fish itself was very good, and the salmon well cooked and moist. The accompanying vegetables were also perfectly cooked, and the miso soup was warm and savory, umami notes. If it’s anything to go by, the Japanese menu is of a high quality. Through the meal, we enjoyed excellent service from the attentive waiters, perhaps because the restaurant was expertly concealed at the top of a building, like a secret Star in Mario 64. The staff went out of their way to cater for our needs and desires, spoke excellent English and regularly checked in to make sure we were happy with the food and service. This was Singaporean service in Yangon, and anyone looking to make a good impression on a date without dramas over incorrect dishes could do much worse. I returned to the Spruce a week later, keen to sample the breakfast menu, pulled in by a desire for poached eggs and multigrain bread. This time I ordered the full British breakfast (US$ 8) – not English, mind you, but British.This included two eggs (I had poached) pork sausage, baked beans, smoked bacon, sautéed mushrooms, hash browns, grilled tomatoes and multigrain toast.) While the ketchup and beans were both a little sweet, in the American style, the overall dish was very solid, even if the bizarrely huge plate on which it was served threatened to overshadow the meal itself. With warm staff, great views and a really nice selection of food, Spruce is a great up-market choice for late night dates, Brits abroad with a craving for a decent British breakfast, anyone looking for upmarket Japanese food with a good view and whiskey lovers searching for elusive bottles. Worth the struggle to find it and a good alternative to the Yangon standbys. Address: 137 Upper Pansodan Road, Block (M8)#13-01, Mingala Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon Tel: 09 752 341301 Open 6:30 am – 12 am

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

New Opening

The Myst Bar & Lounge Yangon

What’s new in Yangon? The December update on new restaurants and cafes in Yangon. Check them out and share your feedback!

Nam Su Nam Su is another culinary concept by Rangoon Tea House group, a Shan-inspired restaurant with wide choices of homemade recipes and signature cocktails available at one place. Here, you can taste delicious Shan cuisines prepared by the head chef with warm heart. So if you’re craving for Shan food in bustling downtown Yangon, Nam Su is a must go place for those who miss homemade Shan dishes. Address: No. 116, 118 Bogalay Zay Street, Botahtaung Township, Yangon Tel: 09 894 120277, Hours: 11 am – 11 pm

Sharky’s Myanmar (La Pyae Wun Plaza) Sharky’s needs no introduction to Yangon people. With ‘Food and Passion’ as their tagline, Sharky’s has won the hearts and stomachs of Yangon’s dwellers with its slow-cooked treats. Passionate about making their ingredients in-house, owner Ye Htut Win is always willing to share his experience about the food that is grown and prepared in the country. It has now opened its outlet in Yangon on busy Alan Pya Pagoda Road just beside Parkroyal hotel. Address: La Pyae Wun Plaza, Alan Pya Pagoda Road, Dagon Township, Yangon Hours: 8 am – 10pm

Dice Society Dice Society is a board game cafe in Shwegondaing that provides an alternative social space for casual gamers, geeks, and people looking to have unconventional fun. Recently opened last week, the cafe is now serving drinks to its customers with affordable prices during its soft opening period and everyone can feel free to play their wide selections of board games to choose from hundreds. Address: Shwegondaing Road, Bahan Township, Yangon Tel: 09 752 534320, Hours: 9 am – 5pm

The Myst Bar & Lounge Yangon

This new chilling place in town is on the privilege for the Yangon nights. The interior has a modern look with some lavish decoration. The bright flavors cocktails and a long list of food menu will make this spot your favorite one. Plus they have live dj music every week so that you can beat off the seat. Address: 25, 27 New University Ave Road, Bahan Township, Yangon Tel: 09 788 881899, Hours: 6 pm – 2am

Ietsu Sushi & Soba

Formerly known as Yhet’s which is hidden in a side street off Merchant Street and now it moved to Urban Asia Center - Ietsu provides a quiet and intimate space that is perfect for an escape from the hustle and bustle of downtown Yangon. Sushi is served at room temperature with fresh ingredients are imported from Japan without fail. They claim that the fish they import are asleep, not dead, which ensures unbeatable freshness and the most amazing sushi in town. Their soba noodles are handmade in Yangon. Address: G-60A, Urban Asia Center, 48th Street × MahaBandoola Road, Botahtaung Township, Yangon Tel: 09887667668, 09968166899 Hours: 10 am - 11 pm

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Check out more on myanmore.com/restaurant-directory.

Arts

BEAUTY THROUGH CHAOS: TIN HTET PAING Tin Htet Paing is a senior reporter at English/Burmese news outlet Myanmar-Now. Alongside her articles, she makes use of photography to build a more definitive piece. Min Pyae Sone finds out more. Following her membership and participation in an all-female local photography initiative The Thuma Collective, she has been exploring her relationships with Yangon’s urban landscape through strong displays of both intellectual and artistic content. Rather than describing her photography and photography in general as just a singular art form, she tries to look at it as a tool to capture and document reality from what basically is “the eye of the beholder.” More than just aesthetics, it something more than a genre defined by looselybased characteristics. Our conversation revolved mostly around what it means to be “contemporary” in Myanmar where the classification of art in its various forms is not wellestablished, let alone carried out. I observe what seemed to be both hesitation and discomfort in defining her own work. Tin Htet Paing believes photography as an art form should not be categorized easily as most of them contain intricate layers of meaning. With that, I agree. Tin works in one of the more investigative news outlets in Myanmar. That alone, in my

opinion, sparks a more out-ofthe-box attitude that seemingly reflects in her work – compared to more personal takes that can be seen through the contemporary photography scene. Rather than just a hobby, photography serves as a tool to communicate with whether it be to an audience or with the subject in the frame. There is a lack of human figures in most of her pieces, while a lot of her colleagues from the Thuma Collective have more personal projects. This provides an element of isolation and maybe even some satire, as such in her piece about an overhead bridge that no one even uses and everyone is seen using the road anyways. In Myanmar, it is important to set our priorities straight and with baby steps, figure out whether to go with all these trends simultaneously emerging to promote a sense of ‘creativity,’ or to set firm standards and categories. For Tin, the latter doesn’t seem too appealing. Here’s why in her words: “Globally, there are so many things that are regarded as contemporary like photography and documentaries. With all these labels, it’s just too confusing for me. Maybe I don’t have enough artistic maturity to understand all these. To be able to ‘breathe,’ I think we need a sort of relaxed setting for arts to develop here.” “When it comes to professions, Myanmar people tend to add

‘Sayar’ or master to terms like photographers or painters, for example, ‘Dat Pone Sayar’ or ‘Ba Gyi Sayar.’ For me these are kind of offsetting, don’t you think? I prefer to regard myself as someone who takes photographs. That’s it.” When it comes to photography, Tin Htet Paing prefers pieces that tell a story almost like a documentary but instead of delivering plain facts and information, it helps the viewer understand it more deeply by simply observing the artist’s narrative.

process will eventually be over. Another abnormal concept expressed by this series is the leapfrogging development of Yangon’s infrastructure but it’s not necessarily in a good way. Tin has described this ‘transitional’ period as ‘chaotic’ and a result of rapid development without a long term plan. “A building is like a human being, eventually it will perish. Another one will take its place.”

An example would be one of Tin’s favorites, Min Myo Nyan Min, a documentary photographer based in Yangon. Widely known as Ko Myo, he has extensively developed award-winning projects that revolve around illicit poaching and the lives of Myanmar’s wild elephants. This is apparent in her latest series, “Beautiful Chaos.” It is a series that portrays the intrapersonal connection she has with Yangon’s physical identity. For me, this series sets my mind in the right direction when it comes to a collective identity or rather a “Yangon Identity.” The series also explores specific concepts of gentrification and urban development in relation to how Tin is slowly becoming visually numb seeing the same construction nets and fences for long periods of time and when the

Architectural photography, by nature, is often intended for commercial purposes, and buildings/architecture has been one of the main subjects for photography since technology made it possible. As mentioned by Tin, this series isn’t a statement or a question by any means for the audience. This is “a conversation between [her] and the buildings.” Still exploring new boundaries and all the different things photography has to offer, Tin is developing a better sense of artistic maturity and her best work is yet to come. It is already looking good now, I cannot wait to see what will be conceptualised in her future projects. She can be contacted via her email tinhtetpaing@gmail.com. Stay updated with The Thuma Collective’s facebook to keep track of upcoming exhibitions.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Music

RANGOON RHYTHM:

OUT OF THE RULE In the last week of November, Myanmore has special guests in the building. They were talking, laughing, some of them were excited and recalling the memories about how they met. Hein Htet (rap), Poe Gyi (melodic & screaming), Abel (guitar) and Paul (bass) visited us for this Rangoon Rhythm of the month. Four of them are a part of modern Nu metal rock band Out Of The Rule. Min Ye Kyaw took notes to make this article comes alive. Hein Htet met Poe Gyi in the first place when he started thinking of a band. He wanted to make it different from what he was into before, a rapper with huge volume of Hip Hop background. Then he gathered the remaining candidates, and eventually they became “Out Of The Rule” from scratch with two more members – A Shay Gyi (guitar) and Sann Moe Htet (sound tech and drum). The band name came from something that they wanted to do which has no boundaries and breaks the rules.

“And the logo isn’t something special, just a head of deer hanging at my house. But we are discussing our official logo now,” Hein Htet explains. And their rule is simple. They don’t go under particular genre. They are all interested in Nu metal, Alternative rock, Rap rock, Modern rock or whatever they feel like they are going to make. But the whole band admitted that they have a big influence of Linkin Park – everyone’s favourite American rock band. Poe Gyi added, “Aside from Linkin Park, we listen to Bring Me The Horizon and a few Nu metal bands.” The rest appended that Idiots and Lay Phyu are their favourite local artists. Together, they have released a total of 9 singles including their first EP in 2015. And four performances. “We usually make the music/ sound first and when the mood comes in, we write lyrics,” Hein Htet claims. Mostly, he writes most of the songs at his place but

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

sometimes, he needs help from others. So it appears to them that the studio is the only place they went to record because most procedures took place at Hein Htet’s place all the time. “We are all happy when we are together and making music. We put all our efforts there,” says Abel. Well that makes sense for a band. When I asked them about the most memorable moment of their music journey, they all agreed to the same answer. “At our first show of Voice of the Youth in 2017, one of the guitar strings broke when we were about to perform. Everyone in the band had gone crazy. Poe Gyi even thought about running off from the stage. But we managed to borrow a new guitar from our friend who lives nearby. But we did feel desperate to continue our performance at that time,” laughter continues.

of Yangon music industry in his words. “We are not really struggling though. Everything is going with the flow because one music genre can’t persist at a certain era. First, it was rock, then pop and hip hop. And they bring EDM here, and it’s still gushing for now. And it will move on, like I said. It’s an evolution. Cause there are always good and bad. We have optimism. Thus, everything will come when it’s time. So we are good, innit.” Out Of The Rule has lots of plans for 2020. To focus on their album, they admitted they need to push their limits since it’s been delayed for years. “Everything’s good now. Like our latest single “Have Fun” that indicates our current mood,” Abel ends the story having a smile on his face. Listen Out Of The Rule on Facebook @OX2TR.

And Paul clarified the collision

Sport

BURMESE GHOULS:

VIRTUAL LIVES, REAL CHALLENGES With the global esports phenomenon overgrowing in every country, Myanmar didn’t fall behind at all. When the Shanghaibased Moonton Technology held its first ever World Championship of Mobile Legends: Bang Bang (MLBB) last month in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, the homegrown team Burmese Ghouls was a part of the challenge and ended up at the fourth place among16 participating teams. Nay Thiha sat down with team members to talk about their virtual and real-life hurdles.

with a US$ 250,000 prize pool. But their journey didn’t go well without obstacles since an integral member of the Ghouls had dealt with passport problems and he couldn’t join the game. The Ghouls had to change their playing style to keep up with the substitute player.

“The question is how many people are willing to spend money for watching someone play video games. We have received income through partnerships with some brands. But how long it is going to support us? I don’t think we can make a living from games in Myanmar yet.”

“We found it more challenging than usual to play with the new formation. I’m not saying the new player was bad. We did not have enough time to train with him,” reflects Waiyan.

When I arrived at their apartment, the five-strong team was two members short as they went on vacation after a stressful week. The team was represented by Waiyan Myint who seemed to be more senior than his fellow teammates.

Even the most liberal parents can be conservative when it comes to gaming in Myanmar. When asked about the team members’ family dynamics, Waiyan replies: “Of course our parents are not pleased. I left my home and stayed at the campus and some teammates have dropped out. We have chosen gaming as our way of life, so …”

Competition-wise, however, esports is now an official medal tournament at the 30th SEA Games in the Philippines. At the biennial event, six medals will be contested in esports and there are three categories: PC, console, and mobile. Each of them features two video games. All the Asean countries, except Brunei, have participated in this esports from 5th to 10th December.

“It was two years ago we met online and started playing Mobile Legends,” the 24 years old recalls. “It was just Ghouls back then. Our first experience abroad was the MSC (MLBB Southeast Asian Competition) in 2018. And we changed our name to Burmese Ghouls.” After winning the first and third seasons of MPL (MLBB Professional League) Championship locally, the team was invited to represent Myanmar in the M1 World Championship

An increasing number of gamers internationally have made a living from streaming on various gaming interfaces or use a channel called Twitch, an online platform for watching and streaming digital video broadcasts. They livestream their gameplays and earn money via donations or subscription fees. When I ask if this is true for local gamers, Waiyan slowly shakes his head.

The Ghouls have sent a representative team to compete in the Arena of Valor (AOV), one of the two games featured in mobile game category and the other one is MLBB. “We have a plan to expand the team to challenge in other popular games. Now we have teams MLBB, AOV and Dota 2. We’re also looking for talented players to join our PUBG (a mobile shooting game) team,” says Waiyan. The Ghouls have huge support from lots of netizens especially younger people and they even met with fans in Yangon a few

days after they came back from Malaysia. They shared their experience at the championship and tips and tricks with the eager fans. Waiyan offers a health advice for aspiring gamers: “Having enough sleep is important because it is the best way to take care of your eyes and it also helps you concentrate. During the precompetition period, we had to train as long as eight hours a day. So, you need some shut-eye.” As a closing remark, I ask his point of view on the local gaming industry. He pauses for a moment and replies: “I think most parents nowadays are not too strict with their children’s pastime. So, they have more freedom than we did. And today, some local enterprises have supported professional gamers. As the prizes increase and it’s growing, more people will find it easier to make a living.” Waiyan is a student from Yangon Technological University and he is now preparing to go back to his study. Furthermore, Waiyan and the Ghouls are looking forward to get excited in second MLBB World Championship in Jakarta, Indonesia, next year. Follow Burmese Ghouls on Facebook @beghouls.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

TECH TALK Powerbeats Pro (U$D 249.95) Powerbeats Pro earphones are built for workout junkies. This wireless headphones offer greater freedom of movement and sound fantastic, with a vibrant, lively character and well-balanced system. The design is built for sweat- resistant and water-proof. With adjustable, secure-fit ear hooks, you can count this little one for comfort and stability.Plus,each earbud has impressive battery life which stands for 9 hours, and with the charging case, you will get 24 hours of combined playback.

JustWatch Just Watch is an app that keeps track of the latest offerings from 37 different streaming services, showing you where and when to watch a particular TV show, covering big names like Netflix, Hulu, HBO Go, and Amazon Prime Video. You can search for a particular series or browse through what’s new. The app also offers latest movie trailers and showtimes for your daily update.

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Huawei Mate 30 Pro The Huawei Mate 30 Pro is the latest smartphone from its Chinese company, comes with a 6.53-inch OLED display, and Huawei’s brand-new Kirin 990 chipset. The best thing about this phone would be its killer camera which is 40 Mega Pixels. This one allow you to record Ultra Lowlight, Ultra-slow Motion and Ultra Wide Angle Time-lapse videos. Huawei Super Charging System is pretty impressive as its innovative design. So, this phone is reviewed by others as outstanding performance.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019

Unified Remote Unified Remote helps you control your PC from an Android device. With Bluetooth or Wifi connected, it supports Windows, Linux, and Mac, and requires a server program to be installed. All the necessary features of this app – screen mirroring, keyboard and mouse, media player controls, etc – are available within one place. The paid version unlocks a multitude of useful features, including custom remotes and functions for Android wear.

MYANMORE magazine #38 December 2019