Myanmore Magazine - No.41/ March 2020 by MYANMORE

No.41 / March 2020 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free!

A REVOLUTIONIST BEHIND THE KITCHENS

CHEF ORNG AN IRISH PAINTER IN BURMA WOMEN IN TOURISM

RANGOON RHYTHM: PHYO PYAE SONE

YANGON AIRPORT SPECIAL

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

No. 41/March 2020

magazine Managing Director Andreas Sigurdsson Managing Editor Min Ye Kyaw Editorial Assistant Hsu Myat Lin Naing Cover Photo Zwe Wint Htet Illustration Ben Hopkins Photography Belpearl Myanmar Khiri Travel Contributors Adam Perrell Christian Gilberti Mary Banfield Melissa Tan Nay Thiha Art & Production Win Zaw Htun Publisher MYANMORE Magazine Pyit Thiri Thaw Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited Permit No. 01588

12 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On 6

Rangoon Rhythm 39

Cinema 8

Eat & Drink House Of Tea 33 New Openings 34

The Tea Shop 10

Arts 37

Tech Talk 42

Printer Rhythm Force Offest Permit No. 01588

Sports 41

Sales & Advertising sales@myanmore.com 0977 900 3701 / 3702

Cover Story Chef Orng : A Revolutionist Behind The Kitchens 12 Feature An Irish Painter In Burma 16 Pearls Of Wisdom 26 Travel Women In Tourism 18

Disclaimer No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from Myanmore. All details are deemed correct at the time of print. The editor, employees and contributors cannot be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur.

About Myanmore Myanmore is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited providing digital and print publishing as well as creative services. Myanmore is managing the leading online city guide www.myanmore.com and printed publications Weekly Guide, EnjoyIt, KnowIt. We also work closely with the team of DRIVE, the first and only premium car magazine in Myanmar. Recently, we have launched application Sarmal (for finding restaurant & bars in Myanmar). The mission is to provide great content and experiences for residents in Myanmar.

www.myanmore.com www.facebook.com/myanmore www.issuu.com/myanmore

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

What's on Activity

Mundo Lingo (Yangon #77)

Every Tuesday of March 2020 They organize events every week where around 100-120 of them come together to practice languages, make new friends from different cultures, and all that while enjoying a beer or a drink. Free entrance. No registration needed. Happy Hour 50% on drinks between 7:00 and 8:00pm. They recommend arriving during this time to get your free flag stickers, especially if you're new. Havana Bar at Urban Asia Centre 48street, Maha Bandula Road, Yangon | 7 pm

occasion, the French Myanmar Chamber of Commerce is organizing a Regional French market, with the most famous names of French gastronomy in the city. Spend a few hours tasting their specialties and participating in the different activities : pétanque with the Amicale des Boulistes de Yangon, make-up workshop for children, sports tournaments, treasure hunt. French fashion designers, inspired by Burmese fashion, will also come to present their creations. At sunset, the French-Burmese band Where is Charlie? will perform outdoors and conclude this day with great music. Lycée Français International de Rangoun - 61 Inya Myaing Road, Bahan Tsp, Yangon | 2 pm - 8 pm

from, book with Rose Garden Hotel Yangon with its Shwe Daw hall on the 7th floor, boasting with the spectacular and magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda, the Inn Gyin Ballroom with a capacity for over 1000 wedding guests; the hotels experienced catering department, and the uniquely designed rooms and Honeymoon Suites is the ideal, number one wedding venue in Yangon. Lucky couples who will sign up for their wedding during the wedding fair will have a stand to walk away with amazing lucky draw prizes. Attendees will also experience a professionally choreographed fashion show displaying the latest wedding fashions and performances by top Myanmar musicians. Rose Garden Hotel - Yangon - No. 171 Upper Pansodan Road, Yangon | 8 am - 7 pm

AustCham's Networking Evening 26th March 2020

Join a relaxing evening where you will network with business leaders in the Australia-Myanmar business community. This will also be a great opportunity to meet with the new AustCham’s directors. Cost: US$ 20 for members / US$ 30 for non-member (fees include free flow drinks and canapés).

V Color Festival 7th March 2020

The grand V Color Festival will be held in the open area parking lot of the Vintage Luxury Yacht Hotel with local & Indian artists, singers and dancers will be performing. In addition to entertainment programs, there are also Color Festival, Rain Dance, Hindi & Bhojpuri Tunes, Thandai Counter, Food & Drink stalls. The entrance fee is 6,000 kyats. To buy tickets, call 019010532/ 33/34/35, 019010555, 09250846974. Vintage Luxury Yacht - No.6, Botahtaung Jetty, Botahtaung Tsp, Pagoda, Yangon | 10 am - 6:30 pm

Open House day at French international school & French market 7th March 2020

The French International school opens its doors for an afternoon of campus tours and team meetings. Campus visits, presentation of the French education system, and discussions with the Primary and Secondary schools teams are awaiting. On this

Rose Garden Hotel - Yangon - No. 171 Upper Pansodan Road, Yangon | 6 pm - 8 pm

Wedding Fair 2020 Rose Garden Hotel Yangon 21st, 22nd March 2020

The Wedding Fair brings a home of wonderful memories made more accessible in one location together with various wedding-related services and providers as a one-stop wedding showcase saving couples all the hassle. At the event, special packages and discounts for wedding receptions and dinners with different entitlements, such as complimentary limousine service, complimentary Honeymoon Suite Stay, ice carvings by its famous artists, exclusive flower arrangements and new delicious menus with International and Asian dishes that brides and grooms-to-be can choose

elusive moments, while Maung Day juxtaposes images composing visual stories. Marc’s photos depict roads, rivers and people in motion. His photos are vignettes that tell us stories of people randomly encountered in the city. In contrast, Maung Day’s photos tease at the surface, revealing historical layers. His images strive to connect the materiality of the urban landscape to its emotional and social soul. Ultimately, Marc Nair and Maung Day’s pairs of photos and poems question the nature of progress and reinvigorate a space to dream. This exhibition is made possible with the support of the Singapore Tourism Board and Rosewood Yangon. Rosewood Yangon - 14 Strand Road, Yangon | 10 am - 10 pm

Arts

Tempo(rary) by Marc Nair and Maung Day 4th March - 1st April 2020

Tempo(rary) was first presented at the Chin Tsong Palace in Yangon during the Singapore Festival 2020, as an installation consisting of 10 pairs of Fine Art Prints associated with 10 metronomes that map the fleeting nature of time as expressed through the various rhythms of our lives. Tempo(rary) is a dialogue across poetry and photography between two artists; Marc Nair living in Singapore, and Maung Day in Yangon. Inspired by the changes of the urban landscape in their respective cities, Marc captures

Van Gogh in Yangon: Painting Workshop 8th, 9th March 2020

Many artists have visited Yangon in the past and left with books, paintings, and poetry filled with inspiration they found while living in Myanmar. Vincent Van Gogh lived in many places during his lifetime and in this workshop, they MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

will create paintings based on his work as though he had lived in Yangon and painted what they saw while living here. Fees: $55 early bird if registered and paid by March 3, 2020. After March 3, fees are $65.

Nightlife

Every Friday of March 2020

Yangon Yoga House - 36 Alan Pya Pagoda St, Yangon | 1 pm - 4:30 pm

Dining

2 For Tuesday

Every Tuesday of March 2020 Because good things always come in pairs, enjoy Buy One, Get One Free on any Pizza at Parami Pizza Downtown every Tuesday 11am-11pm! Choose from their wide range of award winning pizza such as the classic Parami Pizza topped with tomato, mozzarella, bell pepper,

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Aperol Flirty Friday

crispy bacon & soft egg, the Diavolo topped with pepperoni, jalapeĂąos, mushroom & garlic, the Tartufo e Funghi (V) with Truffled Mushrooms & Mozzarella and many more. T&C applied. Parami Pizza Downtown - 42 Strand Road Left Hand Corner of The Red Cross Building Botatung, Yangon | 11 am - 11 pm

FAB 101 - Yangon's Queer club night 14th March 2020

Find the Maze at East Horse Race Court Road in Tarmwe. The Maze is not on Grab. Search for 'Myanmar Distribution Group' or 'Polo Club'. They are next door.

You will love sipping on this beautiful and refreshing Aperol Cocktails and listen to the unplugged performance by Yadanar Wine and Shwe Sin. Enjoy it with your lovely friends on Every Friday Night at Time Out Sport Bar. FREE bottles of sparkling Wine for Every 4 LADIES coming from 8 pm onwards. For reservation, please contact Win Min Than 09 444 088 885 or Facebook messenger. Time Out Sports Bar - 459, Pyay Road, Kamayut Tsp, Yangon | 8 pm - 12 am

The MAZE CLUB - 51/B/1 East Horse Race Course Road, Yangon | 10 pm - 3 am

Cinema

Now Showing The Invisible Man Horror, Sci-Fi

Trapped in a violent, controlling relationship with a wealthy and brilliant scientist, Cecilia Kass escapes in the dead of night and disappears into hiding, aided by her sister, their childhood friend and his teenage daughter. But when Cecilia's abusive ex commits suicide and leaves her a generous portion of his vast fortune, Cecilia suspects his death was a hoax. As a series of eerie coincidences turns lethal, threatening the lives of those she loves, Cecilia's sanity begins to unravel as she desperately tries to prove that she is being hunted by someone nobody can see.

"Onward" introduces two teenage elf brothers who embark on an extraordinary quest to discover if there is still a little magic left out there. Cast: Chris Pratt, Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Tom Holland and more.

Coming Bloodshot

Action, Adventure, Fantasy

Onward

Based on the bestselling comic book, Vin Diesel stars as Ray Garrison, a soldier recently killed in action and brought back to life as the superhero Bloodshot by the RST corporation. With an army of nanotechnology in his veins, he's an unstoppable force -- stronger than ever and able to heal instantly. But in controlling his body, the company has swayed over his mind and memories, too. Now, Ray doesn't know what's real and what's not -- but he's on a mission to find out.

Set in a suburban fantasy world, Disney-Pixar's

Cast: Vin Diesel, Eiza Gonzalez, Sam Heughan, Toby Kebbell and more.

Cast: Elisabeth Moss, Aldis Hodge, Storm Reid, Harriet Dyer and more. Action, Adventure, Animation

A Quiet Place II Horror

Following the deadly events at home, the Abbott family (Emily Blunt, Millicent Simmonds, Noah Jupe) must now face the terrors of the outside world as they continue their fight for survival in silence. Forced to venture into the unknown, they quickly realize that the creatures that hunt by sound are not the only threats that lurk beyond the sand path. Cast: John Krasinski, Cillian Murphy, Emily Blunt, Noah Jupe and more.

Mulan

Action, Adventure, Drama When the Emperor of China issues a decree that one man per family must serve in the Imperial Army to defend the country from Northern invaders, Hua Mulan, the eldest daughter of an honored warrior, steps in to take the place of her ailing father. Masquerading as a man, Hua Jun, she is tested every step of the way and must harness her inner-strength and embrace her true potential. It is an epic journey that will transform MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

her into an honored warrior and earn her the respect of a grateful nation...and a proud father.

Love Aaj Kal

Cast: Yifei Liu, Donnie Yen, Jet Li, Jason Scott Lee and more.

Spanning from 1990 to 2020, the movie portrays two love stories from widely different eras facing widely different obstacles. One couple battles society’s restrictions while the other must learn to balance work with love, but both portray the same true and unfiltered feelings of love.

Naan Sirithal Drama, Comedy

Gandhi is an IT guy who suffers from Pseudobulbar and he uncontrollably laughs during stressful moments. He is taken to a Shiva temple and tied with a holy ornament, which is very strong, but it would bring a threat to him if separated. Cast: Hiphop Tamizha Adhi, Iswarya Menon, K.S. Ravikumar and more.

Vanguard Action

Covert security company Vanguard is the last hope of survival for an accountant after he is targeted by the world’s deadliest mercenary organization.

Drama, Romance

Cast: Sara Ali Khan, Kartik Aaryan, Randeep Hooda and more.

Padauk Ka Tae Ghita Drama, Romance

This movie indicates the struggles faced by a young girl who has to try hard for her strict parents to approve her relationship with a famous singer.

Cast: Sai Sai Kham Leng, Poe Mamhe Thar, Kyaw Thu and more.

Cast: Jackie Chan, Yang Yang, Miya Muqi and more. MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Tea Shop

THE TEA SHOP Illustration by Ben Hopkins.

Government Applies Mrauk-U as World Heritage Site The government listed Mrauk-U to UNESCO to be recognized as a World Heritage Site. Mrauk-U, one of the most ancient and archaeologically important cities in Myanmar, was once the capital of the powerful Arakan Kingdom between the 15th and 17th century. However, some of the areas are generally restricted to visit for security reasons and in January 2020, the government submitted the application to UNESCO and the application is expected to be decided in April. If

Mrauk-U becomes recognized as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, it will be the 3rd place, with the recognition of the Ancient Cities of Pyu and Bagan in 2014 and 2018 respectively.

The Internet Black Out in Rakhine State Due to security concerns, the Transport and Communications Ministry directed telecom companies to suspend internet in conflicted five townships in Rakhine and Chin states- Maungdaw, Buthidaung, Rathedaung and Myebon in Rakhine

and Paletwa in Chin state. The shutdown started on 3rd February and will continue for 3 months. There are already 4 other townships without the internet for over half a year- Ponnagyun, Nraul-U and Kyauktaw and Minbya.

Island in Ayeyarwady named after Daw Aung San Suu Kyi An island in Ayeyarwady region was named after the State Counsellor Daw Aung San Suu Kyi for her continuous fight for the country. Pan Ta Pwint island which is located 16 kilometres from Chaung MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Tha beach will be renamed as Daw Aung San Suu Kyi Island. A nine-foot tall statue of her will be erected in commemoration of her efforts to fight critism of Myanmar. The decision to change the name of the island started with the petition from one of the island’s residents.

First India-Myanmar Cross-border Bus Service To Operate in April After planning for over 17 years, a cross-border bus service from Mandalay to Manipur, the northeastern part of India, is expected to start MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

operating in April. Shwe Mandalar Express Co. Ltd from Myanmar came to an agreement with India’s Seven Sisters Holidays Co., Ltd and signed a memorandum of understanding in Mandalay on 14th February. The 17 seat bus will run once a week and will pass through Monywa, Gangaw, Kalay and Tamu in Sagaing regions with border checks at the Moreh checkpoint.

Restrictions to Climb Bagan Temples Leave Tourists in Frustration

stupas in Bagan, security has been increased around the area. After the recognition as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in July 2019, there have been guards around the area to prevent visitors from climbing Bagan’s temples. Some tourists have claimed that this has made it difficult for them to choose a proper place to see the magnificent sunrise in Bagan. However, the process will keep going for the preservation of the centuries-old holy structures in Bagan.

In order to preserve the ancient temples and

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Cover Story

CHEF ORNG:

A REVOLUTIONIST BEHIND THE KITCHENS Words & interview by Adam Perrell. Photos by Zwe Wint Htet. “In the first six months there were countless occasions where we had to cut the loss, we had to call it off, there was no money; there were a few nights a month with zero turnover. We had to sleep in the restaurant. We could not afford the flat.”

he chef looked to his staff, his family, closing up the restaurant.

“A lot of people said, ‘Oh, you are very brave.’ Actually, it was not brave. It was naïve and stupid, and we had no clue about business coming from a kitchen background. You think you can cook food, you are passionate about the food, then you open the restaurant. No. That is wrong. Wrong. We are very fortunate and very lucky.” Chef Orng introduces his awardwinning restaurant, ORNG Kitchen, as a fluke, a bit of lightning caught in a bottle, but when you taste the variety and creativity in his dishes you realize that the man is very humble and a little genius. The res-

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

taurant survived in its early days, not because of luck or fortune, but because Chef Orng and his staff dedicated all they had, never compromised on ingredients, and delivered great culinary experiences time after time. The chef and his team have come far since their rough start in 2017. In February of 2018, Chef Orng won the MYANMORE Chef of the Year, which was a surprise launch into the limelight. “Everyone was coming, jumping on me; I was delayed for like three to four minutes. I couldn’t believe it. My regulars back at the restaurant, they opened champagne for me.” The restaurant moved just as the industry began to struggle; it was

expanding as the economy was shrinking. Chef Orng gives a lot of credit for his survival to winning the Chef of the Year. The rest of the credit goes to his team and his family. “Although they may not agree with me, they have been very supportive throughout. Financially, psychologically, mentally: they’ve been very supportive. The following year ORNG Kitchen continued to impress and won the 2019 MYANMORE Restaurant of the Year award. “We didn’t expect it. There was a lot happening in 2019. I got married in 2019. I got more business-oriented. There were plans to expand the business. The team had been with me for over two years and I could step back a little bit.”

Success created some breathing room, and the man who worked every day to keep his restaurant going could start looking forward to the future. He began sending his employees out for training and job experience. “They need to know what is outside their own kitchen. I just wanted to give them the message: ‘your life is not just ORNG Kitchen.’ When I worked for someone before, it was never my intention to work for someone for the rest of my life. I worked there for my future. I said to them, ‘You’re not working here for me. You’re working here for your future. This is a stepping stone. When you find something better, you have to move.”

Cover Story

When I worked for someone before, it was never my intention to work for someone for the rest of my life. I worked there for my future. I said to them, ‘You’re not working here for me. You’re working here for your future. This is a stepping stone. When you ﬁnd something better, you have to move.

Chef Orng does more than prepare amazing food; he prepares amazing people. When a hotel needs a cook, he is first with a recommendation. He wants the people who work with him to grow as much as his restaurant and opportunities are growing. He gives everyone a chance and if they take that chance and they give their best, they are family. Chef Orng wants the best for his family. Looking forward to 2020, Chef Orng has big plans and his team is at the heart of them. New projects invite veteran employees to be shareholders, allowing a level of ownership that allows them to grow. He hopes to prepare the restaurant for five-day weeks, giving staff members more time with their family. He envisions a seasonal daily menu that replaces the set menu; he would like the adventure of adapting to the ingredients available rather than keeping stock. With his changes, he will face challenges, but as he and his team overcome them, they will all prosper together. Chef Orng might be well known for ORNG Kitchen has his Myanmar inspired French-style cuisine, but he has a lot more going on. He is working with a friend on a Thai restaurant, Lemongrass Thai, which is located off of Min Ye Kyaw Zwa Road downtown. He is also partnering with The Envoy to cook up some delicious comfort food. With three projects in as many years, it is safe to say that Chef Orng wasn’t lucky with his first restaurant in 2017, he dedicated, passionate, and hard-working. 2020 will bring a lot of changes to ORNG Kitchen and the people dedicating their love and energy to the food and service it provides. Foodies will delight in the creativity and mastery of the chef, staff members will enjoy more time with their family and more learning experiences, and Chef Orng will continue to push himself and the boundaries of the restaurant industry in Yangon.

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Feature

Sir Gerald Festus Kelly, painter.

AN IRISH PAINTER IN BURMA: SIR GERALD KELLY Christian Gilberti

friend, the writer W. Somerset Maugham, that Kelly went to Burma in 1908, in the wake of a failed love affair.

Born with a silver spoon in his mouth, Kelly’s father was a vicar and his mother an heiress.

Maugham himself would later travel to the country, his recollections of which would be published as The Gentleman in the Parlour (1930).

ir Gerald Festus Kelly (18791972) was an Irish painter who became famous for his enchanting and colorful pictures of Burmese dancers and Shan princesses.

He attended Eton and Cambridge, and then, at the age of twenty-two, departed to study painting in Paris, the centre of the avant-garde. While in the “City of Light”, Kelly hobnobbed with the best and most cutting-edge French artists of his day, including Rodin, Monet, Renoir, Degas and Cézanne. But Kelly was not a radical, and, to those around him he was an upper middle-class symbol of the establishment. It was at the insistence of his great

Kelly was enthralled by the landscapes, traditions and people of Burma. In Rangoon, he was the guest of Daw Mya May (the wife of nationalist U May Oung), a well known socialite and patron of the arts. It was likely in her house that he met the Burmese dancers Ma Si Gyaw and Ma Sein Nu, whom he would later paint. Kelly’s fame as an artist, however, was cemented by his series of portraits of the Shan Princess Sao Ohn Nyunt.

In 1931, the young woman accompanied her cousin Sao Ohn Kya, the Sawbwa of Hsipaw, to London to attend the Roundtable Conferences on constitutional reform in Burma and India. Kelly wrote that the princess was homesick for her Shan state, and that, when he encountered her at a reception, she was nearly “bored to tears” by England and its abominable weather. Enchanted by her beauty, and no doubt reminded of his visit to Burma twenty years before, Kelly asked the princess to sit for him. She agreed, and Kelly made sketches and photographs, from which he would later go on to produce a number of oil paintings. Even when he was court painter to the Royal Family during WW2, none

of his paintings would earn him more acclaim than the 20 portraits of Sao Ohn Nyunt that he would paint over the course of the next 30 years. Posters of these works would go on to sell more than 50,000 copies and are still available today. Kelly was able to complete the pictures in London largely through the help of Bilat Pyan Ma Than E, a well known Burmese singer, who posed as a stand-in for Sao Ohn Nyunt. Apart from his fame as an artist, Kelly (now Sir Kelly for his service to the Queen) was known for his rambunctious personality and his acerbic wit. When asked why he had painted over 40 portraits of his wife, he once explained: “I paint her because I don’t think anyone has a prettier wife.” MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Maugham based a number of characters in his books on Kelly, including Lionel Hillier in Cakes and Ale, Frederick Lawson in Of Human Bondage, and O'Malley in His Excellency. In them, we see a portrait of a young man with a high opinion of himself and his art, as in the words of Frederick Lawson: “What has nature got to do with it? No one knows what's in nature and what isn't! The world sees nature through the eyes of the artist... if we paint grass red and cows blue, it'll see them red and blue, and, by Heaven, they will be red and blue.” His close friend Jonathan Savill said that Kelly was above all frank: “Nobody was quicker to admit something was very bad if he’d done something very badly, and nobody was also quicker to say that something was very good if he’d done something very good.” His straight-talking demeanor landed him a gig as a presenter on British television in the 1950s, placing him amongst other art historical personalities such as the late Sir Kenneth Clarke.

An elderly Sao Ohn Nyunt sits with Gerald Kelly's portrait of her.

the physique of women in his paintings belied his work, and his portrayal of Burmese scenes and people could be criticized for their idealized, Orientalist representa-

Moreover, Kelly’s photo-realistic style meant that he was able to capture a great deal of the humanity of his subjects. His work also serves as a document of the hairstyles and fashion of 1920s Burma.

“If the signatures on Kelly’s early Burmese work were hidden, connoisseurs of Burmese painting would still be able to identify the work as Burmese in a flash.”

And get out they did. The morning after his first television broadcast, he passed the queue to the Royal Academy from which he had been presenting the night before. It snaked around the block. The taxi driver turned around and said to him: “I reckon you did that”.

Whether or not a work by a British artist can rightly be called Burmese, Kelly had a profound influence on later Burmese artists such as U Lun Gywe, creating an entire subgenre of dancer paintings.

At the same time, he could be cantankerous and rude. Born to privilege, he was spoiled by everyone around him - including Lady Kelly. “If anything irritated him, he was like a petulant child,” remembered one BBC producer. “But he was also a brilliant actor.”

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Nevertheless, his art has remained popular in modern-day Myanmar (the painting Sao Ohn Nyunt V was

purchased by Burmese businessman U Thet Paing Soe in 2011).

The late American author Andrew Ranard wrote that “one curious point about Kelly’s Burma work is how strongly his color compositions reflect a “Burmese sense.”

But, unlike Clarke, Kelly was rarely analytical in his praise for a picture. Instead, he preferred laconic statements such as “bloody good painting” or “work of genius” which had the effect of encouraging his audience to get out and view art.

Kelly’s misogynistic quips about

tions of the “Far East”.

In any case, the Irishman was a man who loved life and was clearly aware of his good fortune.

Sao Ohn Nyunt V by Gerald Kelly.

“I really do believe that I am the luckiest man that I have ever known,” Kelly once said in a radio interview. “Things have turned out marvellously well.”

Travel

WOMEN IN TOURISM Melissa Tan

nternational Women’s Day – 8th March – celebrates the achievement of women and focuses on global gender equality. We wanted this issue to highlight some of the female characters that shape Myanmar’s tourism industry. Burmese hospitality is famed for genuine warmth and it’s often the women who have a knack for easily making guests feel at home. From leading teams and creating great experiences, to starting and managing hotels or restaurants, we’ve identified a few communities or women with interesting stories behind them:

1. E Thi (ET) was a famous female

fortune teller who passed away in 2017. She was popular with local women and inspired other female fortune tellers who have now set-up shops around the

Shwedagon Pagoda. Visit them for your draw on life and love, or simply to find out the most auspicious flower you should be offering at the pagoda.

2. Tour guiding has traditionally

been a male dominated career but we’re seeing the rise of ambitious young ladies across the country. They provide a different perspective on life and culture in Myanmar, along with homely anecdotes passed down from mother to daughter. Ask your travel agency for a female guide next time.

3. Ann is a remarkable native Intha woman at Inle lake who is always coming up with new ideas to sustainably develop and protect her home at the same time. Between her efforts in conser-

vation, waste collection and management, helping with the development of the lotus weaving industry, and managing 2 hotels (Ann Heritage Lodge and Shwe Inn Thar), Ann does it all.

4. The long-neck Kayan women

from Panpet village may be the most famous one, but we celebrate the many others here as well. Travel to a region south of Loikaw and meet tribe women wearing bands of strings covered in lacquer, elaborate silver jewellery or decorated head pieces. During excursion with a village community guide, learn about their different cultures, beliefs and practices. Despite their tough lives, the women are gregarious and funny, with big smiles and home-made rice wine in hand.

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

5. Nothing beats mum's cooking!

9. Rarely written about in guide

6. Theingi is a vibrant author,

Led predominantly by Burmese women, Khiri Travel is passionate about creating sustainable opportunities for women across the country. From setting up cooking classes in a stilt home, to a kayak rental business, to supporting over 50 women in their leg-rowing competition practices, the team keeps an ear to the ground for projects and initiatives to help with.

Home-cooked food has an irreplaceable quality and is difficult to find as a tourist. Khiri Travel develops excursions which often invites you to be a guest at a local family’s home, and have a meal prepared by the best cooks – the women! Aside from the delicious experience for guests, the income helps women earn their keep without having to leave their home and kids behind. food lover, artist and former secretary of Aung San Suu Kyi. Originally a solo-exhibiting painter, she courageously stood with the opposition movement in the uprising of 1988 before being arrested and put in Insein Prison for 3 years. Her spritely manner never wavered and she published a humorous book of her time there, “Nor Iron Bars a Cage”, along with 19 other titles over the course of her writing career.

7. The women of Chin state are

known for their facial tattoos and complicated weaving techniques. Visit towns like Mindat or Kanpetlet to relive their tattoo stories and learn to identify different tribes based on their inkwork. For intricate hand-woven pieces, the journey can be far easier. Sone Tu Chin Weavings, founded by Mai Ni Ni Aung, on Bogalay Zay Street tirelessly works to preserve the fading tradition with pieces exhibited in museums around the world.

books, Pakannge (little Bagan) is just 1.5 hours’ drive South of Bagan. The village of Salay is rural Myanmar life untouched and Salay River View Inn takes in all of its charm. Together with her husband, Win Thida Khine has created this beautiful riverside boutique guesthouse with 14 rooms, providing a quiet escape and job opportunities for young locals from the surrounding villages.

Melissa Tan is General Manager of Khiri Travel Myanmar and has been sharing her experiences travelling in Myanmar in our monthly column. Khiri Travel 01 375 577 melissa@khiri.com khiri.com

8. Visit the Shan palace in

Hsipaw and meet Fern who receives visitors daily. She tells the romantic and eart-wrenching family history of Inge Sargent, the Austrian lady who became the Mahadevi (queen consort) of the Shan State Hsipaw. Travelling within permitted boundaries of Hsipaw with a licensed guide remains entirely safe.

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Airport Special

Yangon International Airport (YIA)handled 6.5M passengers in 2019.

YANGON INT'L AIRPORT HANDLED 6.5M PASSENGERS IN 2019 Yangon, 26 February, 2020 –

daily flights from Kolkata, India.

angon Aerodrome Company Limited (“YACL”), the Airport Management company of Yangon International Airport (“YIA”), announced today that the main aviation gateway of Myanmar closed 2019 with a record high of 6.5 million passenger movements, lifted by new routes across Asia.

Among YIA’s markets in 2019 (compared to 2018) China grew fastest, rising 36%. This was followed by Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia and Vietnam.

Air passenger movements in 2019 are the highest since YACL took over YIA operations in 2015, rising 7.9% compared to 6.03 million in 2018. YACL said international passenger movements in 2019 rose 7.9%, supported by new airlines and additional routes, mainly from the Chinese and Indian markets. December 2019 was the busiest month of the year, recording 685,910 passenger movements and 7,425 air traffic movements (“ATM”). During the year, YIA welcomed 10 new international airlines and added seven new destinations. YACL has been actively targeting new markets to expand YIA’s international routes. The most recent additions are flydubai’s daily scheduled flights from Dubai, UAE, and IndiGo Airlines’

While passenger traffic increased, air traffic movements decreased to 71,988 landings and take-offs in 2019 from 72,242 in 2018. This reflects a trend of carriers upgrading their fleet to bigger aircraft. YACL implemented several initiatives in pursuit of operational efficiency, safety and service quality at the airport. YACL had commissioned the Global Safety Network Diploma Programme conducted by Airports Council International internally with the participation from the Department of Civil Aviation. A total of 85 personnel participated in various modules of the Programme with 6 graduating with Gold Diplomas and 5 with Silver Diplomas. YACL had also signed an MOU with Lux-Development S.A., Luxembourg’s aid and development agency, to provide Student Internship Programmes aimed at local tourism

and travel students interested in aviation and airport operations. YACL hopes to create a pool of aviation professionals capable of meeting the growing demands of the industry. The airport also added the Mingalar Sky Lounge, Myanmar’s first- ever 24-hour premium service lounge, in August 2019. It offers dedicated, round-the-clock services for travelers, including those on transit. Mr. Ho Chee Tong, YACL’s Chief Executive Officer, said: “It has been a very busy year for YACL. The Myanmar Government’s proactive stepsto raise tourism awareness internationally and the relaxation of visa requirements have boosted the growth of YIA’s passenger numbers. We will continue our collaboration with the various Ministries and stakeholders as well as raise the capability of our colleagues to improve on the airport’s safety, efficiency and service quality.” “In view of the recent spread of COVID-19 that has significantly impacted the travel industry, we will continue to ensure public health safety for our airport users,” he added.

About Yangon Aerodrome Company Limited (YACL) Setting the standard for high performance Yangon Aerodrome Company Limited (YACL) operates and manages Yangon International Airport (YIA), the gateway to Myanmar. As the company responsible for Myanmar’s busiest airport, YACL sets the standard for YIA as a high-performing aviation hub, built on a foundation of daily excellence in infrastructure, operations and management. Strategically located between India and China, Myanmar is less than six hours by air from two-thirds of the world’s population. With Myanmar gaining popularity as a travel destination, YACL is committed to scaling up YIA’s handling capacity for visitor traffic while continuously providing quality experiences for passengers and airlines alike. YIA has 47 retail and service stores and 23 F&B outlets. With 37 international airlines connecting Myanmar to 38 destinations, YIA served a total of 6.5 million passengers in 2019.

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Airport Special

A GUIDE TO RESTAURANTS AT YANGON INT’L AIRPORT Airport cafes and restaurants have been saviors for those facing hunger issues after a long flight. Here is a list of cafes and restaurants that you can find at the Yangon International Airport to fill up your tummies. Terminal 1 Bon Voyage Airport Bar This airport bar provides various types of wine, cocktails, alcohol and coffee from around the world plus local and imported beer. You can also enjoy grilled food, salad, pasta, desserts and many more while waiting for your flight. Cafe’ de Yangon Cafe’ de Yangon offers light food plus breakfast and dinner for the passengers to simply relax in their chilling atmosphere. Yamagoya Ramen A ramen restaurant for Japanese food lovers to enjoy their meal with its delicious ramen. Craft Cafe You can get a wide range of Asian and European food at this small cozy cafe. Located in the public area of terminal 1, Craft Cafe is always crowded with passengers waiting for their flights. Burger King Everyone’s favourite burger shop is now at the airport- tantalizing the taste buds of fast food lovers. Kel’s Kitchen Kel’s Kitchen serves authentic Asian cuisines where you can find the taste of Asia. The Cocoa Trees If you are a Chocolate lover, you should visit The Cocoa Trees where you can find a wide range of international chocolate brands in one place. Espace Cafe’ and Bar With its spacious and contemporary MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

decoration, Espace provides different kinds of breakfast, lunch and dinner to the customers. Swensens A place for sweet tooth lovers- Swensens will offer you a wide range of ice cream and sundaes of your favourite.

Terminal 3 (Domestic) Gloria Jeans Coffee Gloria Jeans serves varieties of specialty coffee and cakes and you can also get European and Asian food such as Mohinga, Palata, etc. Monster Cheese A place where you can find Cheese specialties items with great quality and reasonable price. Cafe’ Corner You can get Asian and European breakfast, lunch and food & drinks at Cafe’ Corner. J’ Donuts J’ Donuts is here at the airport to

comfort your donut cravings with its unchanging taste.

dining experience with their delicious Thai cuisines.

Red Orchid Enjoy your delicious Asian and European food with various refreshing drinks at Red Orchid.

Gongcha One of the most popular boba tea shops in Yangon is now available at both domestic and international airports.

The following restaurants can be found at both terminals; T1 & T3. Thai Express Thai Express will give you a good

The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf This cafe with cool vibes provides varieties of coffee, cake and light bite where you can spend time waiting for your flight. KFC KFC is here at the airport for fast food lovers. Parisian Cake and Coffee You can find varieties of pastry items and delicious coffee and tea at this cozy cafe’. myNEWS.com Grab anything you want from this Malaysian franchise grocery store. You can see a wide selection of books, magazines, food & drinks and many more.

Airport Special

THE YANGON INT’L AIRPORT SHOPPING GUIDE Who doesn’t love shopping at Duty Free shops? At Yangon Int’l Airport, many retail shops such as Calvin Klein, Coach, Fossil, Furla, Lacoste and many others await you to give you an experience of luxury shopping at one-stop. Aigner Discover leather goods, fashion and accessories at Aigner Brand Store of Duty Free while traveling at Yangon International Airport. Artisan Artisan store is offering a broader array of Myanmar’s souvenirs. Travellers can shop the various souvenirs conveniently. Calvin Klein A global lifestyle brand that offers modern, sophisticated styles for women and men including apparel, handbags, footwear, underwear, fragrance and home furnishings with bold, progressive ideals and a seductive, and often minimal, aesthetic. Cavalli Class Taking iconic elements from the Heritage of the Cavalli history and translating them into elegant ease. A go-to Brand for women and men who don’t renounce style to face the challenges of everyday life. Charles & Keith A lifestyle brand that embraces a culture of innovation. All ladies including teenagers in Myanmar buy almost all Charles & Keith brand products. Coach Shop an exclusive American luxury fashion & lifestyle collections innovated with unparalleled quality and craftsmanship. Desigual Desigual is a clothing brand headquartered in Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain, which is notable for its trendy patchwork designs, intense prints, graffiti art, asymmetrical designs and flamboyant splashes of color.

Diesel Enjoy exclusive deals for your fashionable travels that you don’t want to miss at Diesel! ! Only at Duty Free Yangon International Terminal. Dunhill Alfred Dunhill, Ltd is a British luxury goods brand, specializing in ready-to-wear, custom and bespoke menswear, leather goods, and accessories. E-Gadget Located on the 2nd floor, E-Gadget offers the latest devices in town, including cameras, phones and other electronic devices. Elegant Gems Elegant Gems offers quality pieces of jewelry made from Myanmar Natural Gems. Buy exclusively yours. Ermenegildo Zegna An Italian luxury fashion house that makes men's clothing and accessories.

Jim Thompson Explore a wide array of Thai silk products including unique gifts and have a pleasant time shopping before visiting friends or flying back home at our latest store in the Departures area. Kate Spade Kate Spade is a global life and style house filled with handbags, of course. Also, clothes, shoes, jewelry, home décor, tech accessories and so many other things that you use every day. Kinokuniya Ever entrepreneurial and embodying the spirit of kaizen, Books Kinokuniya is committed to provide excellent services and create a pleasant ambience amongst our bookstores, so as to satisfy and delight all our customers. Kipling Kipling offers a colorful array of designer handbags, backpacks, luggage, wallets, messenger bags, travel accessories & more.

Mont Blanc Discover the timeless beauty of Montblanc watches, writing instruments, jewelry, leather goods, fragrance and eyewear. Pandora Discover unique range of jewelry including hand-finished charms, bracelets, necklaces, rings and pendants to match your style and personality. Paul & Shark Shop Paul & Shark, the luxury Italian sportswear brand. Samsonite The most durable & innovative luggage, business cases, backpacks and travel accessories. Shanghai Tang Shanghai Tang is a pioneering created by Chinese luxury brand recognised internationally for its authentic craftsmanship and unique designs served with a dash of humour, irreverence and disruptive edge.

Fossil Fossil is an American watch and lifestyle company creatively rooted in authentic, vintage and classic design. With each of our signature watches, leather accessories and other products, we strive to create high-quality designs that preserve the best of the past while updating it for today.

Lacoste Deliver classic, modern clothing inspired by sport & French elegance since 1933.

Furla Discover the Furla collections: bags, wallets and accessories. Visit Furla store and get benefits from exclusive offers.

Longines Swiss Luxury Watch Maker, Longines provides you with its expertise, built on tradition, elegance and performance.

United Colors Of Benetton Buy Italian Style clothes & accessories from United Color of Benetton for men and women.

Mandarina Duck A lifeStyle brand of Mandarina Duck offers designer luggage and travel accessories, made of fabric leather.

Versace Cute, funny, beautiful, or smart? Why not be all four. Shop Versace Jeans Collection on your next trip to Duty Free Yangon T1.

Galleria Bally brand is an ideal brand for both men and women starting from outfits to well-known shoes.

Levi’s The origin of jeans. Stylish and authentic, Levi's has the best fitting blue jeans, pants, shirts and outerwear for men, women and kids.

Swarovski Explore the world of Swarovski crystal. Shop now for jewelry, figurines, ornaments, watches, fashion accessories & more. Tumi Shop for premium luggage, bags, backpacks and travel accessories for men and women.

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Feature

PEARLS OF WISDOM:

MYANMAR’S UNIQUE GOLDEN PEARLS, AND THEIR VALUE Words & interview by Mary Benﬁeld. Photos by Belpearl Myanmar.

n ancient times golden pearls embodied the idea of power and prosperity. “Today, they say elegance, wisdom, compassion, intelligence, a woman who knows how to handle poorly behaving "men",” said Betty Sue King, Pearl Goddess. As travelers glide through Yangon’s jewellery stores there’s that question, am I paying a fair price? Establishing the value of a pearl seems anything but scientific but there are some basic rules that distinguish high-end from quality and then the others. While white pearls are revered throughout the world, Golden Pearls are less well known. In 2019 Myanmar exported 901,233

pearls, most of which were natural golden pearls, produced by the Golden Lipped Pinctada.

The remaining 92% of annual pearl production, 80,000, are considered as “export quality”.

These Oysters thrive only in the Southern Seas of Indonesia, the Philippines and clean waters of the Mergui Archipelago in southern Myanmar.

Those pearls will be shipped to auction houses, and divided into ‘Commercial’, ‘Mid-Jewellery’ Grades and around 40% will be ‘High-Quality Jewellery’.

“What makes Myanmar’s golden pearls stand out, in one word, is quality,” said Michael Hajjar, Belpearl. “Our pearls from Myanmar have the finest mirror surface, are larger and produce the deepest golden color.” The story of valuing pearls begins on the farms. At Belpearl’s Shwe Kyun (Golden Island) 3% of production is “Trash”; between 3-8% are low quality and shipped to India for ordainment production.

Auction days are big business with pearls sold in lots up to 10,000. Here wholesale and jewellery buyer’s sort through trays that are divided by color, size, lustre and weight and then bidding begins.

Grading Pearls By Categories Weight Of Pearls: The weight of a pearl is measured in Momme’s. One Momme being around 3.75grams.

Myanmar Atlantic, one of Myanmar’s largest farms on Thayawthatangyi Island (Elephant Island) calculates that on average at action a commercially graded pearl will sell for $200 per Momme; a low-grade commercial around $120 and Jewellery grade $300 said Si Thu, Planning Director, Myanmar Atlantic.

Pearls With Lustre: Chinese mythology saw pearls as children of the full moon. Today pearls that reflect the moon on their surface are held in high esteem. A pearl’s Surface Quality is measured by the combination of two main factors: surface and lustre. That includes being ‘inclusion free’, MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

with no craters, blemishes or wrinkles. ‘Lustre’ falls into six categories, with pearls of unparalleled qualities classed as ‘Gem Grade’. That’s just 5% of production, with no inclusions and a simply flawless surface. Under Gem Grade sits AAA, then AA+, AA, A+ down to A. The lowest Grade, ‘A’, indicates that 40% of the pearl’s surface is flawless, still has an impressive lustre, however, has deep inclusions. The less inclusions the higher the grade, up to AAA, with 90% of the surface being flawless said Si Thu. “There are some pearls where you look into the surface and see yourself reflected like a mirror. That’s lustre and something quite special,” said Sarkis Hajjar, Belpearl.

after, with values drifting down as the color fades. “We find that Dark Golden Pearls sell on par, or above white pearls. ‘Gold gold’ colors are a personal choice, and there is a huge disparity in the value of light-yellow pearls selling well below par with white,” said Sarkis Hajjar.

The Shape Of Pearls: “We work on the premise, and work towards getting perfectly round pearls, as this is classically what people chose,” said Michael Hajjar. “Various shapes are sold on the market. ‘Round’ holds the highest value, scaling down to ‘semi round’, ‘drop’, oval/button shaped, ringed (circle shaped) and finally Baroque,” said Sarkis Hajjar.

That maybe the general market but no rule sets the rules. “Unusual shapes can look stunning in a pendant or necklace.” said King.

Pearls, Big Is Beautiful: From the house of Belpearl size is everything, almost. The average pearl produced on Shwe Kyun is between 9-11mm in diameter. In the auction houses the smallest pearl is 7mm, and rarely can a pearl grow over 16mm. There was one, memorable pearl, that took Michael's breath away. A 19mm brilliant golden pearl. “This pearl was priceless. It was a force of nature. You simply couldn’t put a price on that, it’s one of a kind.”

Breakout: Artiﬁcially Enhanced Pearls: Pearls can be tested to check if they’re imitation, natural, or cultured or color treated. For anyone investing significant money, color and lustre can be graded. However, choosing the appropriate lab is essential. “Testing for pearl quality manipulation requires standard and advanced technology”, said Win Wai, Gemmological Institute of Myanmar. Contact the Gemological Institute of Myanmar at http://www.gi-myanmar .org for more details.

The Perfect Color Pearl: At Belpearl Auctions, Dark Golden Pearls are highly sort

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Sponsored

A BID FOR COMPETITIVE AUCTIONS To this day, private auctions seem strange to Myanmar people. Myanmar Auction Company is trying to establish a competitive auction system and educate people about it. Nay Thiha sat down with one of its directors Ko Ko San, also known as Ko Thet, to talk about potentials and challenges of the industry.

ounded in late 2018, the company is managed by four like-minded entrepreneurs with love for rare artefacts. Despite its young age, the organisation has arranged five auctions, with recent one in mid-January. “The first auction was for cars. After holding three automobile auctions, we’ve focused more on paintings and rare pieces. Now we had held two auctions and will organise the third one at the end of March,” says Ko Thet.

Problems and solutions Collecting and assessing artefacts and paintings is a very complicated job. When the advertisements calling for sellers to auction were

announced, people from all corners of Myanmar had flocked to the company to present their Items. “Some people had expected too much. So, we have to tell them the real worth of their belongings after the detailed assessments.” From Konbaung-era paintings to porcelain from the Ming dynasty, the company’s collections are treasure troves of rare items from different regions and periods. The upcoming auction will be displaying nearly 150 paintings and curios. But, Myanmar cultural items are not for sale, just for exhibition. When you are dealing or collecting rare pieces, you have to be aware of swindlers.

“One guy brought Nat (deity) sculptures from banyan tree shrines and wanted to sell them as rare pieces!” the auctioneer says with a laugh, continuing: “We have to consult with experts for the paintings and rare items. They appraise each of them based on their experiences and the look of it. We do not have the equipment for carbon dating and this is a problem we have here. Therefore, we do not give any guarantee for authenticity on rare items due to technical weaknesses and requirements.” Some items have particular markings that are evident of their authenticity. For example, the gifts from a British governor to a Hsipaw Sawbwa have engravings that tell the exact date.

“The set includes a sword, a silver cup used in eating eggs and other cutlery. They’re dating back to the reign of King Thibaw, so over 100 years old.” The rare pieces can be gained from anywhere – some were salvaged from the water and some dug out of the ground. So, the auctioneers have to consult with experts from different areas of knowledge every Saturday weeks before the auction. Still the pricing of an exclusive piece is not set by default. The highest price that a buyer is willing to pay does not always meet the lowest price that a seller is willing to accept. “One time, a gentleman won a bid MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

at Ks 8 million. But the seller wanted Ks 10 million. So we couldn’t sell it and the bidder was upset. The problem was the sellers expected a price so high that the bidders couldn’t meet.” Currently, there is no service fee and the sellers have to pay 25% as a commission only after their items are sold. The auctioneers have a plan to start asking for 2% of the asking price as a service fee.

“The 2% will be collected as a service fee upfront. The consignors have to pay off the remaining 23% if their items are sold. This is to keep our business sustainable and also to encourage the sellers to set more realistic prices on their items.”

Believe in the future The auction is held in conjunction with a public exhibition that showcases freeholders’ curios and

paintings. Art historians, for instance, will have a chance to observe a painting by prominent Kongbaung-era artist Saya Chone. Many people in Myanmar are unfamiliar with private auctions and the rules. The company wants to build a constructive communication with bidders through edification. “We want to organise competitive auctions with transparency. To this

end, bidders have to follow a set of rules. Many people don’t know they have to register and deposit some cash in the registration counter. Some know but don’t want to follow. They prefer buying the items off the shelf.” The auctioneers had asked the bidders to make Ks 500,000 or US$ 300 in the deposit counter for auctions. But since no one complied, the auctioneers yielded and let them bid through registration. Ko Thet wants bidders to know that establishing an auction system needs their cooperation. Despite many obstacles, the auctioneer is optimistic about the future: “Building up a system from scratch is never easy. That’s why we had eased the rules at the beginning. We will restrict the rules from upcoming auctions. Eventually, everyone will get used to them.” Even if you are not interested in bidding, you can still learn the rich and diverse cultures of Myanmar through freeholders’ curios and paintings at the exhibition. Visit the website (myanmarauction.com) or follow Facebook (@myanmarauctioncompanylimited ) for more info.

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Eat & Drink

HOUSE OF TEA: MAKE YOURSELF AT HOME In the olden times in Myanmar, the community would discuss social matters like marriages, donations, etc, over tea and pickled tea-leaf salad at the bench just outside homes. The plaintiff and the defendant would have tea-leaf salad as an act of accepting the verdict of the court. In traditions, a bag of tea leaves can also serve as a wedding invitation.

ere, tea-leaf salad can be a side dish or main depending on the number of assortments. It can also be added to the meat and fish to enhance the flavours and boost nutritional values. House of Tea is a peculiar place downtown. Although it opened just three weeks ago, the small eatery has already garnered attention on social media among locals and foreigners alike. Perhaps its ubiquitous use of tea in all of its dishes attracts curious diners all over Yangon. Behind this culinary concept is Aung Soe Min, the acclaimed owner/ curator of Pansodan Gallery. He was born in Kyaukpadaung in upper Myanmar, where the ancient traditions and rural cultures can still be observed broadly to this day.

The menu of the restaurant reflects his purpose. Meals are priced around Ks 5,000 and drinks below Ks 1,500, appealing to people with different levels of budget. If you want to taste the tea-leaf salad in its most original form, start with the salad set. We order two of the signature dishes fried fish and grilled mutton sets paired with tea-leaf salads and assortments like fried garlic, peanuts, sesame, etc. You can also have beef and chicken options. All are Ks 5,000. Each set comes with tea-leaf salads in three flavours: original, spicy and sour. Adding the citric taste to the

tea is risky since most people cannot tolerate it. The trick here is the starfruit as it is milder than the lemon. “I had to think of various methods to meet different tastes. By adding the starfruit cutlets into the tea, it reduces the bitterness and makes it more savoury,” says Aung Soe Min. The fried tilapia has natural sweetness without the help of MSG. The chef applies peanut oil to the grilled mutton before eating. The mutton is crunchy and goes well with spicy tea leaves. If you like big lunches, order turmeric fried rice. Another way to enjoy the salad is to pack the meat, tea leaves, mints and

preferred assortments in the lettuce. After the meal, observe the paintings with a cup of tea. Or, grab a book from the nearest shelf since the restaurant shares the room with the antique book store, Myanmar Matika. If you are tired of fine diners and want to discover a simple and unpretentious food culture, House of Tea is a place to be. Address: 37th Street (middle block), closer to the Maha Bandula Road, Kyauktada Tsp, Yangon Tel: 09 513 0846 Hours: 9 am – 6 pm

His first step into the F&B industry, Pansodan Scene Art Café, combines arts with traditional food and coffee. You can find a similar idea in House of Tea. There are benches with mats outside the restaurant in the fashion of a village home. You can also sit on the small chairs and tables inside. “I always felt Myanmar people think art is for a certain class of individuals. Commoners rarely visit galleries and exhibitions. I believe that everyone can enjoy art. So I decided to bring art closer to the people through my eateries,” he explains. MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Eat & Drink

What’s new this month? The March update on new openings of restaurants and cafes in Yangon. Share us your feedback!

Omnivore by Sharky’s Omnivore, another side project of Yangon’s much loved Sharky’s, specializes in wine and steak pairing. Australian Wagyu beef and lamb are the special items of Omnivore, which you can either buy in portions or taste the cooking of Omnivore chefs at the place. A perfect place for those who love to taste the best meat in town! No. 81, Pansodan Street, Between Maha Bandula Road & Merchant Road, Yangon Tel: 09 264 589 615 Hours: 11 am - 10 pm

Bistropedia Bistropedia offers Asian and European fusion cuisines. With a mini sport space on the 2nd floor, you can enjoy Bistropedia’s signature dishes such as Grandma Beef Stew, Pork Knuckle and a lot more with its health-oriented drinks. No.77-79, Baho Road, Thiri Kaymar Ward, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon Tel: 09 443 355 773 Hours: 7 am - 11pm

Find out more at myanmore.com/new-openings/

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Northern Old Skool Another venture of Radio Bar, the new Northern Old Skool can be found in front of Yangon International Airport. Decorated as an old garage with a giant on top, it is a place where rock stars from the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;80s gather and perform on the stage. Enjoy your drinks and feel the rock vibes at Northern Old Skool! In front of Yangon International Airport, Yangon Tel: 09 452 924 073 Hours: 5 pm - 12 am

Cafe Salween @ 6.5 Miles

Naw Tayar Probably the only restaurant in Yangon that specialised in Karen cuisine. The place is suitable for health-conscious diners since its dishes have little to no cooking oil. Karen traditional Talapaw soup is a must. Adventurous foodies will also have a chance to try boar, wild cat and frog. But as these meats are rare, call them first for availability before you go. The minimum spending for two people is around 10,000 Ks but depends on what you order. No. 35, Aye Street, Ahlone Township, Yangon Tel: 09 792 243412 Hours: 10 am - 10pm

Cafe Salween of Urban Asia Center has opened its second outlet at 6.5 Miles Marketplace, bringing an extensive drinks menu. It has been loved by both locals and foreigners for its unique presentation of Myanmar traditional snacks with a twist of European style. No.69, 6.5 Miles Marketplace by Citymart, Hlaing Tsp, Yangon Tel: 09 425 830 657 Hours: 9am - 9pm

Cocky Bar Located on the busy Strand Road and in front of Rosewood Yangon, Cocky Bar comes with a concept of open-air style in the container lying on the side of the road with various dishes, drinks, cocktails and Shisha at reasonable prices with a relaxing atmosphere. No. Corner of Sule Pagoda Road & Strand Road, Kyauktada Tsp, Yangon Tel: 09 796 150633 Hours: 3pm till late

MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Arts

THE CITIES IN SKETCHES

A group of sketchers roam the streets of Yangon. Their sketches tell the stories of the city from its busy bazaars and magnificent monuments – from Yangon’s iconic High Court to heritage buildings and stunning landscapes – on white cartridge papers. Nay Thiha sat down with two of the sketch artists to find out more deeper what they are up to.

he idea of an urban sketchers community is nothing new. From Scotland to Singapore, sketcher societies are sharing the visual stories of their cities through social media and transnational exhibitions. It was Aung Htut Khaung and a dozen of sketchers that gave Yangon its own community. “We became friends on Facebook and first met up in December 2018. We organised the first group show in May 2019,” recalls Aung. They are everywhere – from crowded streets of Chinatown to the busy jetty of Botahtaung. They regularly gather on Sunday evenings and walk around Yangon. Their works, however, are not limited to Myanmar’s largest city. They also travel to important cultural centres like Bagan, Mandalay and Mrauk-U. “At first we met in the rainy season. It was a bad idea since all our water colours were washed away by the rain and canvas turned to pulp,” says Aung with a giggle. The sketchers have held two group shows with the most recent one in early February. The exhibition Sketching Walkers 2.0 showcased over 80 paintings of the eight artists. MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

Unlike oil and watercolour paintings, sketches are somewhat underrated in the arts scene. But they come up with their own perks. What’s most important here would be the simplicity and economical ease. You do not need vast knowledge in colour theories and artistic principles. With a pencil and a piece of paper, you can produce a drawing. The paint is just complementary. Win Htoon Thant, the sketcher who is also a cartoonist-cum-tattooist, says: “Sketches can be explored in different ways. About 10 per cent of my works are just strokes and lines. They have their own expression.” Win took interest in the arts from a young age. Like many prestigious painters, his first drawings were about the things in his surroundings. He graduated from the University of Arts and Culture in 2004 with a bachelor’s degree in painting. “I also make commercial drawings. But the feeling is very different. In commercials, I draw for my clients and thus my creativity is limited. I feel more alive when I draw for whatever I want.” Win’s drawings are chiefly about ancient buildings and pagodas. The works are made unique by his attention

to details from compositions to colours. Take the mossy building for example. It is the painting of the abandoned Thone Pan Hla Monastery from the Pyu era which is located in Pyay. You can even trace the small green patches on the concrete structure in it. With the blurry background made up of pale blues and greens, the painting gives you the first-personview of the monastery on one misty morning. People in front of the monastery add a sense of life to the aging building. In comparison, Aung’s works are more minimalistic. In one painting, you can see a small ferry in a narrow waterway between the forests. In another, you find a line of four boats in pastel colours. His use of light colours is wonderful and makes you feel like you are looking at a scene in an animated film. At the second show, the majority of his works cover boats and shipyards. “Some people take photos of the subject and draw in the comfort of their home. We prefer live drawing,” says Aung. The group welcomes both local and international artists. You do not have to be an expert to join their meet-ups. Their group is also an opportunity to learn and share experience with the seasoned artists.

“The sure-fire way to learn drawing is to draw as much as you can. You will become more confident. It also helps you find your own style,” says Win. Now the group is trying to get in touch with the global urban sketcher community. Aung says they will become an officially recognised member of the global community “very soon”. Being a part of this network means Yangon can host the annual AsiaLink Sketch Walk, a regional exhibition that gathers thousands of sketches and hundreds of sketchers. The latest one held in the Vietnamese capital of Hanoi in 2019 saw nearly 400 artists! “We really want to make it happen in Yangon since it’s a great way to promote tourism and share experience with international artists,” says Aung. In their spare time, Yangon’s sketchers are drawing the colonial buildings on the Strand Road between 1st Street and 64th Street. The project is to show the beauty of “Rangoon” through an exhibition and a hardcover book. If you feel like walking and drawing with the urban sketchers, follow their Facebook page (@uskyangon) or join their group, Urban Sketchers Myanmar.

Music

RANGOON RHYTHM: PHYO PYAE SONE “I went to medical school since it’s my folks’ demand for me. But I’ve decided to be a musician as my professional career so I think I’ll be spending the rest of my life singing songs and making music.” said Phyo Pyae Sone, the winner of 2010 Melody World vocal contest who is now one of the most successful vocalists in Myanmar. The songster of Mhyaw Naing Tha Mya, which became a major hit song in Myanmar, talked about his life, career and perception of music.

hyo Pyae Sone did not realize that he had been interested in music until he auditioned in Melody World in 2010 to test his musical talent. Living with uncles and aunts, he used to listen to the songs of singer Sai Htee Saing, May Sweet and Haymar Nay Win while doing chores at home at a young age. “You remember those 30-second commercials on TV? I knew the songs of all those commercials by heart.” he laughs. Phyo Pyae Sone did not have any prior experience in singing before entering the contest since he was busy with the school. However, he joined a vocal training course by Sayar U Saw Nu for 3 months during the audition period and it somehow helped him understand the concept and theories of singing. The audition also gave him a chance to extend his community in the entertainment world since he got a chance to meet famous judges through the audition such as singer Nwet Yin Win, composer Myint Moe Aung and many more. “Being part of Melody World was a great experience for me but I also had to face a lot of difficulties during the audition.” About 5 months before auditioning the 2nd level of the contest, his mom suddenly passed away which was such an unexpected

turn of events for him. However, he decided to do it till the end with the support and encouragement of his relatives. Despite those unfortunate events, he somehow became 1st runner up with the song “Mae Lite Kya Ma Lar” by Zaw Paing then moved to 3rd level with “A Thel Yat Sat Tal” by Tu Tu and eventually, he became the winner of 2010 Melody World. Then after 5 years, he released his very first album “Mhyaw Naing Tha Mya” , which made people recognize him as Phyo Pyae Sone. He mostly listens to pop music so he prefers singing pop songs. “I also like fusion music like pop rock or electro pop. My favourite artist is Tin Zar Maw. I’m always amazed by her talent. I feel like we have the same singing style and most of my songs are inspired by her music.” Among international artists, he listens to Celine Dion, Beyonce and Mariah Carey and finds inspiration from their work. “Whenever I record a song, I release it only if I’m 100 percent satisfied with it. I prefer recording more than lives because I get the chance to prepare or edit or do whatever I want with it before releasing. But I also love to perform on stage. I love it

MYANMORE magazine #41 #40 March February 2020 2020

when the audience sings along with me and have fun together with me during the performance.” The singer mentioned that those moments can make him forget all of his problems and focus on the present. Phyo Pyae Sone rarely writes his own songs and he admitted that he doesn’t have talent in writing lyrics. He has written about 5 songs on his own but he still doesn’t have enough confidence to show them to the public. He just sings what others have written and lately, he’s been working together with composer Wai Gyi. “He’s a great lad. The songs he writes for me make me feel something special and I think they match me the best.” Among the songs that he has sung throughout his career, La Yate is his favourite one. Being a vocalist sounds fun but it actually is not an easy job. The most important thing in every vocalist’s career is the voice since they make a living using it. Phyo Pyae Sone admitted that he doesn’t really take care of his voice and doesn’t do warming up exercises for his vocal stamina. “I recently had to go to Bangkok to check my throat and it turned out that I have throat allergy. But it’s getting better now and I’m trying to learn how to take care of my voice from my fellow vocalists.”

Besides singing, the famous singer likes cooking and loves to share the food he made with his loved ones. He also loves making handicrafts - “I don’t know much about handicrafts but I have been interested in it for so long and will definitely try making them one day.” he said. Phyo Pyae Sone has got a lot of plans and activities for 2020. His 2nd solo album that he has been preparing for 3 years, together with the famous Iron Cross band, will be out and he will release a cover song for Thingyan festival plus a duet album with singer Jewel, in which a song that he wrote with the help of composer Wai Gyi will be included. “Music plays a very, very important role in my life. I’ve already chosen this path as my professional career so I’ll make my fans proud and think of what I can do to make more progress in my music journey.” said the talented musician who undoubtedly has determined to continue singing songs as much as he can. Follow Phyo Pyae Sone on Facebook @phyopyaesonepage.

Sport

BOZHENA “TOTO” ANTONIYAR: THE ROSE IN THE RING If you see Bozhena Antoniyar in the street, you might have dismissed her as a pretty petite girl. But when you see her in the ring, she is a force to be reckoned with. Nay Thiha e-interviewed the rising mixed martial arts star who is presently training in Bali.

ntoniyar, better known as Toto in and outside the arena, started boxing at the young age of 16. She was just 23 when knocking out the opponent in just 24 seconds at the first round of her ONE Championship debut. It was recorded as the fastest knockout in ONE women’s history. Stands at 155 centimetres, Toto is not tall at all. But her stature hardly presents an obstacle. Toto’s bullet punches and firm grappling give a hard time to every opponent she faces inside the ring. With 3 wins and 2 losses in her ONE career, Toto has become one of the most promising Myanmar female athletes in a short time. On being a woman in the men’s world, Toto says: “The combat sport is very tough. As a woman, I got to try very hard to compete with male fighters. My body is kind of tiny compared to others. So when I fight, I have to struggle more than usual. But I never get depressed and try as hard as I can.” Grew up on a farm in a village in Kayah State, Toto’s journey to sport MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020

stardom is an unusual one. As a child, Toto took interest in singing and playing musical instruments. When she was done with the school, her dream was to move to Yangon and make a living as a musician. But her parents were worried for their youngest daughter and did not permit her to move out. She tried to pursue a football career, but again, had to give it up because of the same reason.

instructor and boxing coach at Transcend Gym and it was when she learnt jiu jitsu (Brazillian martial art) to diversify her fighting style. Through her local boxing matches, Toto’s talents caught the attention of ONE Championship. When she was offered an opportunity to fight in ONE Championship: Quest for Gold, she jumped at it. One thing led to another and she is now training with the Bali MMA.

Then, Toto found a new passion – and her true calling – boxing.

“Every bout I fought was full of challenges. Accepting a match means facing the challenge. The most challenging and toughest opponent is Bi Nguyen.”

“Since I was young I wanted to be successful,” Toto recalls. “When I was living in Kayah, there was a state boxing competition and the officials selected me to represent our state in the ring. It was the first step of my combat career.” Her parents did not approve of boxing, either. But Toto moved to Yangon and decided not to return home until she made a name in boxing. She lived in the capital city of Nay Pyi Taw briefly to train for the 2013 Southeast Asian Games. In 2017, she had worked as a fitness

She faced her Vietnamese-American opponent in July 2019. Their intense, full-round bout was five minutes long and Toto emerged victorious by a split decision of the judges. Spectators recognised her ability to shift between offensive and defensive stances in the ring. Her jiu jitsu skills were praised by acclaimed MMA fighter Aung La Nsang himself. “I agree that losing is a part of the game. But I don’t like losses and don’t want to be a loser. After losing

a match, I feel so sorry. But I pick myself up and train for the next match,” she says, reflecting on her career. When Toto is not training, she comes back to her hometown Loikaw and spends time with her family. Her parents have now made peace with her career. She may be found listening to music or playing some instruments in her spare time. The Kayan woman believes MMA is a way to promote her country and heritage. She considers opening a training school when she retires from the ring. As a headstrong woman herself, Toto also wants the youths to follow their dreams without having second thoughts. “I want to advise the next generation of fighters to try hard and be ambitious. Everybody will face difficulties and struggles. But don’t give up easily. If you want to be successful, you have to endure hardship. When you consider choosing this career, I suggest you walk till the end.” Follow Toto @bozhena.antoniyar. 10 on Facebook.

TECH TALK Asus ROG Phone II If you are looking for a gaming smartphone, the latest ROG Phone II from ASUS would be your perfect choice. The second generation GameCool II cooling system in it has a newly designed 3D vapor chamber that’s even more effective at removing heat from the phone during fullspeed operation. ROG Phone II takes gaming visuals to the next level with the world’s first 120Hz/1ms AMOLED 10-bit HDR display, a truly magnificent 6.59 inch screen that delivers unbelievably fluid, blur-free gaming and entertainment. It won’t let you down in the heat of battle, no matter how long victory takes.

Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8.0

Keep on top of everything in your head, whether it’s movies to watch or the details of your project. The app is designed for busy people who live by making lists to stay on track at work and home, in which you can create Action Cards to note things you do not want to forget that take care of the scheduling, reminders and notifications. You can swipe on Action Cards to complete them, delete them and set reminders. So, master your calendar events and ypur to-dos with the ultimate productivity app!

File Manager Explorer - File Browser

Doing what you love is easy when the Galaxy Tab A does it all. Take in a dramatically wider picture on an HD display and browse and stream for hours with a long-lasting battery and expandable storage. Samsung Flow connects your Galaxy Tab A and your Samsung Smartphone with a touch. You can also share files wirelessly and receive and respond to notifications and messages from third party and native apps. So, enjoy your day and make your work done with Samsung Galaxy Tab A 8.0.

Realme Buds Air The all-new realme Buds Air offers a truly wireless experience that is free from the shackle of cables, giving you true music freedom. Elevating true wireless freedom to the next level is the custom R1 chip with Bluetooth 5.0 that enables an instant and stable connection between the earbuds and the phone, better battery performance and accessible smart controls. The realme Buds Air can be paired with a simple press of a button, and once paired, whenever you open the case cover, the realme Buds Air recognizes and connects to your phone instantly, giving you a seamless music experience and comes in 3 colors: black, white and yellow. Address: Win Mobile World, No.48(A), Ground Floor, Shan Kone Street, Sanchaung Tsp, Yangon Contact: 09 785 222 888

Actions by Moleskine

ES File Explorer is a great tool for managing files and programs. The program allows android users to easily manage their files, being able to access anything on their mobile device and share it. The application comes with all of the necessary features, with a variety of options to help you manage your files and datas.

AirDroid

AirDroid allows you to access and manage your Android phone or tablet from a PC. Once the app is installed on the Android device as well as on your PC, you can easily share files and mirror your Android screen on your PC. You can also see notifications, messages and many more from your PC, connected to your Android device. MYANMORE magazine #41 March 2020