Inflight proljece / spring 2015 by Croatia Airlines

PROLJEΔE

SPRING 2015

STAY BALANCED Experience Zagrebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafĂŠs, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance. The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep. The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers! ` ,:HI>C (I6N 6A6C8:9 ,:AAC:HH E68@6<: ` (I6N É&#x192; C><=IH Q (6K: É&#x192;É FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT RESERVATIONS@WESTINZAGREB.COM

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Omiš

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26

Zadovoljstvo nam je πto ste s nama i ovog proljeÊa, dobro doπli u naπ zrakoplov! S poËetkom ljetnog reda letenja, koji vrijedi od 29. oæujka do 24. listopada, za nas poËinje i vrlo dinamiËan dio godine. Novost je da prvi put izravno povezujemo Rijeku i München te Dubrovnik i Nicu, a naπi zrakoplovi ponovno Êe letjeti i u Atenu, Barcelonu, Beograd, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Lyon te Veneciju. I ove godine povezat Êemo Hrvatsku sezonskim letovima s træiπtima NjemaËke, Velike Britanije, ©vicarske, Austrije, Nizozemske, ©panjolske… Ali, nisu to sve novosti. Naime, u tehniËkom srediπtu Croatia Airlinesa u poËetku veljaËe otvoren je naπ novi, treÊi hangar. Tako su struËnjacima tehniËkih sektora otvorene joπ veÊe moguÊnosti odræavanja zrakoplova inozemnih aviokompanija, kao i bræe i eﬁkasnije odræavanje naπih zrakoplova, ukljuËujuÊi i najzahtjevnije dvanaestogodiπnje D-preglede. StruËnjaci Tehnike Croatia Airlinesa uspjeπno su obavili 20-mjeseËni pregled na naπem Airbusu 9A-CTK, te tako i funkcionalno testirali novu liniju, koja je odmah nastavila s radom. Vjerujemo da Êete u vaπim odrediπtima, na koje vas dovode naπi zrakoplovi, provesti ugodne trenutke. A, dok letite, nudimo vam i ovaj put zanimljive sadræaje iz naπega putnog Ëasopisa. Moæete proËitati intervju s nagraivanim hrvatskim gimnastiËarom Marijom Moænikom, specijalistom za preËu, po kojemu je i jedan gimnastiËarski element dobio ime. Piπemo i o novoj zgradi MuziËke akademije, smjeπtenoj na jednome od najljepπih zagrebaËkih trgova. Vodimo vas i na veliku izloæbu u zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt te predstavljamo radove arhitekta Hermanna Bolléa, koji su uvelike pridonijeli preobrazbi Zagreba u modernu metropolu. Proputovat Êemo i Gorskim kotarom, doÊi do obale, zaustaviti se u lijepome malom srednjodalmatinskom gradu Omiπu, pa onda nastaviti prema atraktivnim hrvatskim otocima, koji su pravi raj za nautiËare. Predstavit Êemo vam i jedinstvenu uskrsnu procesiju na otoku Hvaru, koju je Unesco uvrstio u svjetski popis nematerijalne baπtine kao puËki pasionski biser. Nadam se da vam let s nama protjeËe ugodno, dragi putnici, i zahvaljujem πto ste Croatia Airlines odabrali kao partnera za vaπe putovanje. Takoer, æelim vam sretan Uskrs i nadam se da Êemo vam uskoro ponovno moÊi poæeljeti dobrodoπlicu na joπ jednome od naπih letova.

Dear passengers, Welcome aboard our aircraft! We are pleased to have you with us again this spring. With the beginning of the summer schedule, which is valid from 29 March to 24 October, a very dynamic part of the year begins for us. One of the novelties is that, for the ﬁrst time, we

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

are now directly connecting Rijeka and Munich, and Dubrovnik and Nice, and we have reintroduced flights to Athens, Barcelona, Belgrade, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Lyon and Venice. Also, our seasonal flights are again connecting Croatia with the markets of Germany, Great Britain, Switzerland, Austria, the Netherlands, Spain... But these are not all the news. In early February, a new, third hangar was opened in the Technical Centre of Croatia Airlines. This will open even more possibilities to our experts in the technical sectors for the maintenance of aircraft of foreign airlines, and will make the maintenance of our aircraft, including the most demanding twelve-year D-checks, faster and more efficient. The experts of the Technical Department of Croatia Airlines have successfully completed a 20-month check on our 9A-CTK Airbus, having thus functionally tested the new line, which resumed operating immediately. We believe that you will enjoy pleasant moments at the destinations where our aircraft are taking you. And, while you are flying, we again offer you engaging texts in our inflight magazine. We are bringing you an interview with the award-winning Croatian gymnast Marijo Moænik, a specialist for the horizontal bar, after whom one gymnastics element was named. We are also bringing a piece about the new building of the Music Academy, located at one of the most beautiful squares in Zagreb. We are taking you to a major exhibition at the Zagreb Museum of Arts and Crafts, presenting the works of the architect Hermann Bollé, who contributed greatly to the transformation of Zagreb into a modern metropolis. We are also travelling through Gorski Kotar all the way to the coast, making a stop at a beautiful small town in central Dalmatia, the Town of Omiπ, and are then resuming our trip to beautiful Croatian islands, a true paradise for sailors. We are also introducing you to a unique Easter Procession on the Island of Hvar, which has been listed on the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity as a pearl of popular passion piety. I hope your flight with us is pleasant, dear passengers, and thank you for choosing Croatia Airlines to partner your journey. Also, I wish you a Happy Easter and hope that we will soon welcome you again on another of our flights.

Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Yours faithfully,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

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Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave President & CEO

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SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

6 Razgovor: Marijo Moænik

MARIJO MOÆNIK, UMJETNIK U KRALJEVSKOJ DISCIPLINI Specijalist je za preËu. Taj 28-godiπnji hrvatski gimnastiËar okitio se nizom medalja, a po njemu se zove i jedan od teæih elemenata na preËi. Interview: Marijo Moænik

MARIJO MOÆNIK, ARTIST IN THE ROYAL DISCIPLINE He is a specialist on the horizontal bar. This 28-year-old Croatian gymnast has won numerous medals, and one of the most difﬁcult elements in this discipline is named after him.

16 Umjetnost

34 Izložbe

BLISTA NOVA MUZI»KA AKADEMIJA

HERMANN BOLLÉ, ARHITEKT HISTORICISTI»KOG ZAGREBA

Nova zgrada MuziËke akademije, udaljena stotinjak metara od ZagrebaËke opere, odnedavna i svojom umjetniËki vrijednom glazbom dodatno oplemenjuje jedan od najljepπih zagrebaËkih trgova.

Hermann Bollé znatno je pridonio preobrazbi Zagreba u modernu srednjoeuropsku metropolu. Exhibitions

Arts

THE NEW MUSIC ACADEMY GLISTENS The new building of the Music Academy, situated a few hundred metres away from the Zagreb Opera building, embellishes one of the most beautiful squares in Zagreb and enriches the arts and culture scene.

ProljeÊe/Spring 2015

46 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

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GORSKI KOTAR, ZELENO SRCE HRVATSKE

HERMANN BOLLÉ, THE ARCHITECT OF HISTORICIST ZAGREB Hermann Bollé’s projects went a long way in transforming Zagreb into a modern Central European metropolis.

Gorski kotar planinski je kraj Hrvatske, koji se negdje strmo, drugdje blago, uzdiæe nad sunËanim Kvarnerom i s oËaravajuÊim pogledima na more… Continental Croatia

GORSKI KOTAR − THE GREEN HEART OF CROATIA Gorski Kotar is Croatia’s mountainous region; its slopes, above sunny Kvarner Bay, gentle in places and steep in others, command breathtaking views of the sea… 2

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62 NautiËki turizam

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

DA, ÆIVOT JE ZAISTA LIJEP! Svi hrvatski veliki i mali otoci, nastanjeni i bez stanovnika, kameni ili pjeπËani, goli i pusti ili plodni ili tamni od borova koji ih obrastaju, nautiËki su raj, reÊi Êe svatko tko je ikada tuda plovio. Nautical Tourism

YES, LIFE IS REALLY BEAUTIFUL! All Croatian big and small islands, inhabited or uninhabited, rocky or sandy, bare and desolate or fertile and covered with dark pines, make up the nautical paradise. Anybody who has ever sailed here will tell you that.

80 Obala

104 Tradicija

OMIŠ, PLAVO, BIJELO I ZELENO

ZA KRIÆEN, BLAGO KOJE ŽELI BITI OTKRIVENO

Za taj mali grad u srednjoj Dalmaciji njegovi Êe stanovnici kazati kako je gotovo idealno posloæen nudeÊi sve πto Ëovjeku moæe uljepπati æivot.

Taj biser puËke pasionske poboænosti prepoznao je i Unesco, uvrstivπi ga 2009. godine u popis nematerijalne kulturne baπtine ËovjeËanstva.

Coast

OMIŠ - THE BLUE, THE WHITE AND THE GREEN The residents of this small town in central Dalmatia will say that it is almost ideally arranged, offering everything that can brighten a person’s life.

This pearl of popular passion piety was recognized by UNESCO and included on its list of intangible cultural heritage in 2009.

130 Dogaanja

VIJETNAM, ZEMLJA PUNA RAZNOLIKOSTI I PROMJENA

ZAGREB, GRAD SA SRCEM

Meridians

VIET NAM, A COUNTRY OF DIVERSITY AND CHANGE Vietnam boasts excellent conditions for tourism development, coastline, good climate, diverse landscape, rich cultural heritage...

This is your personal copy

ZA KRIÆEN, THE TREASURE THAT SEEKS TO BE DISCOVERED

112 Meridijani

Vijetnam ima izvrsne uvjete za razvoj turizma. Dugu obalu, klimu i krajolik, bogatu baπtinu...

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

Tradition

Glavni grad Hrvatske jedan je od najstarijih europskih gradova, ali i jedna od najmlaih europskih metropola. U srediπtu je Europe pa iz svakoga europskoga grada u Zagreb moæete doletjeti za manje od dva sata Events

ZAGREB, THE CITY WITH A HEART The capital of Croatia is the youngest European Union metropolis and a little treasure trove of European culture. Located in the heart of Europe, the city is less than two-hour ﬂight away from all European ports (cities).

138 Moda

U DUHU TRADICIJE I BAŠTINE Posljednjih desetak godina svijet mode uvelike se okrenuo vlastitoj tradiciji. Etnobaπtina nameÊe se kao vrijedna nit vodilja koja jamËi dugovjeËnost i dodatnu vrijednost. Fashion

INSPIRED BY TRADITION AND HERITAGE Over the past ten years, the fashion world has been turning to tradition in its search for inspiration. Ethno-heritage has imposed itself on the scene as a very valuable guiding thread, which guarantees longevity and provides added value. 4

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RAZGOVOR MARIJO MOŽNIK

Piπe/By Siniša PaviÊ

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Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW MARIJO MOŽNIK

ARTIST IN THE ROYAL

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GimnastiËar Marijo Moænik odlikovan je Redom Danice hrvatske s likom Franje BuËara za velike sportske uspjehe kao ukupni pobjednik Svjetskog kupa u gimnastici na preËi 2010., 2013. i 2014. godine. Po njemu je nazvan jedan od teæih elemenata na preËi. I ne moæe biti nego zaËudan niz medalja kojima se, za karijere duge dvadeset godina, okitio taj 28-godiπnji hrvatski gimnastiËar, specijalist za gimnastiËku spravu koja se zove preËa. Gymnast, Marijo Moænik, was awarded the Order of Danica Hrvatska with the image of Franjo BuËar for exceptional successes in sports as the overall winner of the World Cup Gymnastics Championships on the horizontal bar in 2010, 2013 and 2014. The series of medals won in the twenty-year long career of this 28-year old Croatian gymnast, a specialist on the horizontal bar, can only be surprising for a mere mortal. Marijo Moænik has one of the more difﬁcult elements on the horizontal bar named after him. 8

brajate li se sluËajno u rijetke koji nisu Ëuli za Marija Moænika, lako se to riješi u ovo danaπnje virtualno doba. Samo utipkajte ime u kakvu traæilicu i ona Êe vas zapljusnuti fascinantnim podacima. Jer, za obiËnog smrtnika i ne moæe biti nego zaËudan taj niz medalja kojima se, za karijere duge dvadeset godina, okitio taj 28-godiπnji hrvatski gimnastiËar, specijalist za gimnastiËku spravu koja se zove preËa. Tu su odliËja sa svih vaænih svjetskih natjecanja, recimo srebro iz 2012. godine s Europskog prvenstva u Montpellieru, ili 18 medalja osvojenih na turnirima Svjetskog kupa, baπ kao i podatak da je 2010., 2013. i 2014. bio i ukupni pobjednik Svjetskog kupa na preËi. Najsjajnije odliËje ipak je ono zadnje, bronËana medalja osvojena u listopadu proπle godine na Svjetskom prvenstvu u kineskom Nanningu. Bilo je to prvo svjetsko finale Marija Moænika i bronca, tek malo loπije ocijenjena vjeæba od one u aktualnoga olimpijskoga, svjetskoga i europskog prvaka Nizozemca Epkea Zonderlanda. Po Mariju Moæniku zove se i jedan od teæih elemenata na preËi, no onom veÊ spomenutom, obiËnom smrtniku ipak bi prije maπtu moglo zagolicati to što je baπ on sa 183 centimetra visine i 80 kilograma teæine najviπi i najteæi gimnastiËar na svijetu. ■ Kad budu, za nekog leta, Ëitali ovaj tekst, lako je moguÊe da Êe Vas putnici Croatia Airlinesa i uæivo vidjeti. Samo im valja podiÊi malo glavu. − Ne mogu me fulat kad sam najviπi i najteæi gimnastiËar na svijetu. ■ A ni brojnih Vam putovanja u ovoj godini ne gine. Nova sezona samo πto nije poËela. − Nama gimnastiËarima svake je godine manje-viπe isto. Sezona poËinje u oæujku. Na proljeÊe je Europsko prvenstvo, na jesen Svjetsko prvenstvo, a prije i poslije tih velikih natjecanja nekoliko je turnira Svjetskog kupa. Svjetskog prvenstva nema samo kad je olimpijska godina. NeÊe ga biti 2016. i zato je ove godine Svjetsko prvenstvo i ono kvalifikacijsko za Olimpijske igre u Riju. ■ ZnaËi, taj golemi uspjeh, to veliko treÊe mjesto na proπlom Svjetskom prvenstvu, zapravo ne znaËi niπta, barem kad su kvalifikacije za Olimpijske igre posrijedi. − Zapravo je tako. U gimnastici je sustav kvalifikacija priliËno kompliciran. Pojednostavljeno reËeno, na Svjetskom prvenstvu, koje se ove godine odræava u Glasgowu, mi koji smo se specijalizirali za jednu od sprava, pa tako i ja, moramo osvojiti medalju da bi se kvalificirali na Olimpijske igre. ■ »ini se popriliËno frustrirajuÊe?

− Prije je bilo i teæe, na Olimpijske igre iπao je samo prvi sa Svjetskog prvenstva. Sada idu prva tri. Joπ se forsira viπeboj kao disciplina, makar je natjecanje po spravama atraktivnije. To je kao u atletici, malo tko doe na stadion pa sa zanimanjem gleda desetoboj. VeÊini je najzanimljivije vidjeti tko Êe pobijediti u utrci na sto metara. Tako se u gimnastici gleda tko Êe pobijediti na ruËama, na konju s hvataljkama, preËi. ■ Vratimo se naËas ipak na visinu i teæinu. Najblaæe reËeno, nije uobiËajeno da su gimnastiËari tako visoki i teπki. − Da sam se poËeo baviti gimnastikom u nekom velikom timu poput ruskog, ameriËkog, kineskog, sigurno ne bih opstao do seniora jer bi me u startu za selekcije eliminirali zbog visine. Ali kako u Hrvatskoj nemamo velik izbor, kod nas se svako dijete koje je talentirano i doista æeli trenirati, zadræi na treninzima, pa makar da je malo viπe. Ono πto nakon toga slijedi jest ulaganje mnogo truda i rada da bi se doπlo do svjetskog vrha. ■ PoËeli ste trenirati kao sedmogodišnjak. − Tako je, poËeo sam u dobi od sedam godina kod Æeljka JambroviÊa i s njim trenirao do 17. godine u Hrvatskom sokolu u Zagrebu. Radio sam viπeboj, vjeæbao na svih πest sprava. U dobi od 17 godina prvi sam put nastupio na seniorskom Europskom prvenstvu i nisam imao neke rezultate. Ali, na nekim spravama, izmeu ostalog i na preËi, bio sam malo iznad prosjeka. To je trenutak kad sam poËeo razmiπljati πto dalje, bih li se viπe posvetio fakultetu, ili moæda posve odustao od gimnastike. Sretna je okolnost bila da je moj sadaπnji trener Tigran GoriËki taman poËinjao trenersku karijeru. Vidio je mene i mog kolegu Marka Breza koji je trenirao sa mnom. Priπao nam je i ponudio suradnju kazavπi kako ima ideju da specijaliziramo sprave. »inilo mi se kako nemam πto izgubiti. Vidio sam da sa svojim proporcijama teπko mogu napraviti neπto u viπeboju. Pala je odluka da specijaliziram preËu, da joj se maksimalno posvetim. Trener je to mudro odigrao. ■ Bila je to velika promjena. − U poËetku je bilo Ëudno. U to vrijeme tek je nekoliko gimnastiËara specijaliziralo neku spravu. PoËeli smo praktiËki od temelja. Nakon dvije godine rada, poËeo sam postizati dobre rezultate. U dobi od 19 godina bio sam 16. na Svjetskom prvenstvu u Aarhusu. Vidjelo se da sve to ima smisla. ■ Kad Vam je bilo samo sedam godina, poËeli ste trenirati sport koji, na æalost, nikada neÊe imati tretman nogometa, u dobi od 17 godina imali ste veliku dilemu ima li smisla nastaviti dalje. Ostali ste u gimnastici. ©to je presudilo?

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− Mene su na gimnastiku upisali roditelji, da ispucam viπak energije koji sam imao. Moji su roditelji skromni ljudi, nije tu bilo neke velike ambicije. PoËinjem trenirati triput tjedno i ubrzo kao desetogodišnjak treniram od ponedjeljka do subote, Ëetiri sata dnevno. VeÊ u dobi od 12 godina imao sam prvi daleki let. Možda je to bilo baπ Croatia Airlinesom. Letjeli smo u Moskvu na pripreme u gimnastiËki centar CSKA. Bilo je to prvo veliko putovanje, prve velike, tri tjedna duge, pripreme. Nije bilo lako, ali kad jedanput u sve to krenete, gimnastika postane dio vas. Negdje u dobi od 16, 17 godina Ëak sam i prestao trenirati mjesec, dva. Æeljko JambroviÊ nekako me vratio. Nisam se vidio bez gimnastike, a i u πkoli su me veÊ svi zvali − gimnastiËar. ■ Ono πto danas radite na preËi na najviπoj je svjetskoj razini. Koliko to traæi treninga? − Gimnastika je sport koji traæi mnogo i veoma si malo moæete priuπtiti odmora. Ljeti imamo moæda desetak dana u komadu slobodno, zimi tjedan. U 12 mjeseci skupim tri tjedna bez gimnastiËke sprave. Danas imam dvadesetak sati treninga tjedno, s tim da i izmeu treninga treba provesti kvalitetno vrijeme, paziti na prehranu, odmor. ■ Zbog gimnastike ipak nikada niste zanemarili naobrazbu. Zavrπili ste Kinezioloπki fakultet i Visoku πkolu za sportski menadæment, danas ste na Kinezioloπkom fakultetu i zaposleni kao asistent. − Nikad nisam bio 100 posto gimnastiËar profesionalac. Kod nas se to i ne moæe, æivjeti i osigurati egzistenciju od gimnastike. Prioritet mi je uvijek bilo πkolovanje, a onda gimnastika. Ili, recimo to tako, jednako su mi bili vaæni. Ali, nikada nisam zbog rezultata riskirao obrazovanje. ■ PreËu zovu kraljevskom disciplinom. Zaπto? − Jer je atraktivna, opasna sprava. PreËa je gotovo tri metra visoko, a kada se rade elementi, onda se ide i do pet metara u zrak i zatim obruπava i hvata preËa. A sile koje se za vjeæbanja stvaraju, goleme su. ■ Kako je nastao element na preËi koji se zove Moænik? Izvodi li ga itko bolje od Vas po kojemu nosi ime? − Haha, dobro pitanje. Teπko je danas izmisliti neπto novo, jer gimnastika je doπla do te razine da je sve novo i veoma opasno. Malo je danas gimnastiËara na svjetskim natjecanjima, koji imaju svoj element, nekoliko njih. Trener GoriËki imao je ideju, on je autor, ja sam izvoaË. Postoji taj Pruæeni Tkachev, prelet preko preËe s pruæenim tijelom i ponovno hvatanje. Treneru je pala na um ideja da se prije

hvatanja zarotiram za 180 stupnjeva i da ne hvatam preËu ispred sebe nego da okrenem glavu od preËe i hvatam je iza sebe, praktiËki naslijepo. To do tada nitko nije radio. Bilo je nelogiËno, opasno. Pokušao sam i uspio. A onda poËinje procedura prijavljivanja elementa. Valjalo ga je na Svjetskom prvenstvu 2007. uspjeπno izvesti da bi uπao u pravilnik. NajveÊi sudaËki autoriteti dali su mu teæinu E, πto je veoma dobro. Teæina elemenata ide od najlakπih A do najteæih G. Danas se Moænik moæe vidjeti u svakom ﬁnalu Svjetskoga i Europskog prvenstva i Olimpijskih igara. ■ Jednom ste rekli da strah raa pogreπke. Je li vas ipak katkad strah kad se dohvatite preËe? − PreËa je disciplina kojom se ne moæeπ baviti ako si u strahu. Ja i inaËe imam malo pomaknutu granicu za strah. Ne samo da se bavim preËom, nego sam se u dobi od 17 godina poËeo baviti raznim adrenalinskim aktivnostima. Skupio sam priliËno takvih hobija, uvijek pomiËuÊi granice. Recimo, skoËio sam bungee jumping s MasleniËkog mosta, s 56 metara visine, uz dva i pol salta i uronom u more. ■ »ini se da taj Vaπ pomalo drugaËiji life style nije ostao nezapažen. − Baπ zbog tih svojih odskakanja od prosjeËnoga gimnastiËara, te visine i teæine, vlastitog elementa, tih adrenalinskih hobija, 2011. godine postao sam Red Bullov sportaπ. To mi je velika Ëast. Prvi sam gimnastiËar kojega su uzeli, a danas je uz mene joπ samo jedan Britanac. ■ Koliko dugo moæe trajati neki gimnastiËar, koliko dugo moæe biti na vrhunskoj razini? − Meni je 28 godina. S obzirom na moje proporcije, mogu se baviti gimnastikom sigurno joπ jedan olimpijski ciklus, a to je do 2020. godine. I moæda joπ koju godinu. ■ ZnaËi, bit Êe Rio, ali bit Êe i Tokio? − Volio bih, ali ne mogu jamËiti. O tome hoÊete li biti meu tri najbolja, zaista odluËuju centimetri. ■ Kad se gledaju natjecanja gimnastiËara, Ëini se da ste svi ljuti neprijatelji. Kako je iza kulisa? − Dok smo u natjecateljskoj dvorani, svatko misli na svoju vjeæbu i izvedbu. Koncentracija je potpuna, komunikacije je malo. Sve je ostalo lijepo, lijepo druæenje, lijepo iskustvo. »esto zajedno treniramo, sve su to prijateljstva, a ja sam sa svojim konkurentima na preËi veoma dobar. Nema u gimnastici mnogo gledanja poprijeko. ■ »esto ste na putu. Stignete li vidjeti iπta od svih tih zemalja i gradova? − Ima sportaπa koje ne zanima niπta osim hotela i dvorane. Ja sam drugaËiji. Kamo god CROATIA AIRLINES

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doem, sve æelim vidjeti, pa me Ëesto trener mora dræati pod kontrolom. Vremena ima, pogotovo na velikim natjecanjima kada smo duæe u nekom gradu. A ondje gdje smo kraÊe, navraÊamo viπe puta i, na kraju, malo-pomalo, obiemo cijeli grad. ■ Prije koju godinu dogodila Vam se obiteljska tragedija. Preminuo Vam je brat Darijo, takoer gimnastiËar. Sve svoje pobjede posveÊujete njemu. − Istina je, iznenada sam izgubio brata, ali u tom trenutku moæda me baπ gimnastika spasila od potonuÊa. Vrlo brzo odluËio sam nastaviti trenirati i joπ viπe raditi, odluËio da Êe mi baπ on biti motivacija za dalje, da Êu sve raditi za njega. ■ TreÊi ste u svijetu u vjeæbanju na preËi. Filip Ude i Robert Seligman, Tomislav MarkoviÊ, takoer osvajaju medalje. Pravo je to malo Ëudo za zemlju poput Hrvatske. − To je veliko Ëudo, ali ljudi ga nisu svjesni. Jer, mi nismo imali pripremljen teren ni nekoga da nas gura naprijed. Gimnastika je jedan od sportova kojim se sve svjetske velesile naveliko bave. Rusija, Amerika, Kina, Japan, NjemaËka, svi mnogo ulaæu u gimnastiku i oËekuju velike rezultate. Mi smo ona prva generacija koja je prokrËila put u taj svjetski vrh. Jer u gimnastici treba najprije stvoriti ime. To je najteæe. Moæda ova moja generacija to uspije promijeniti. .

f by any chance you are one of those rare few people who have never heard of Marijo Moænik, all that can be easily remedied in this time of virtual reality. Just type his name into the search engine and it will bombard you with a plethora of fascinating information! The series of medals won in the twenty-year long career of this 28-year old Croatian gymnast, a specialist on the horizontal bar, can only be surprising for a mere mortal. He has medals from all the big sporting competitions: silver from the European Men’s Artistic Gymnastics Championships in Montpellier in 2012, 18 medals won in World Cup tournaments, and in 2010, 2013 and 2014, he was the overall winner of the World Cup on the horizontal bar. His greatest medal, however, was the last one, a bronze medal won in October of last year at the World Artistic Gymnastics Championships in Nanning, China. It was the first time he was in the world finale and he won a bronze, with a score just a bit lower for the routine than that from the current Olympic, World and European champion, Epke Zonderlanda, from the Netherlands. Marijo Moænik has one of the more difficult

elements on the horizontal bar named after him, but this aforementioned mere mortal should first be intrigued by the fact that, at a height of 183 centimetres and a weight of 80 kilograms, he is the tallest and heaviest gymnast in the world! ■ While reading this text on a flight, it is very possible for Croatia Airlines passengers to see you in person. They only need to look around. − They cannot miss me since I am the tallest and heaviest gymnast in the world. ■ And you will also be traveling a lot this year? The new season is just about to begin. − Everything is pretty much the same for us gymnasts every year. The season starts in March. The European Championships are in spring, the World Championships in autumn, and in between, there will be a few World Cup tournaments. This year, the World Championships will be the qualifying event for the Olympic Games in Rio. ■ So the big, huge success, the third place at the last World Championships means nothing, at least in terms of qualifying for the Olympic Games!? − Actually, that is right. The qualifications system in gymnastics is quite complicated. Simply said, at the World Championships, which will take place in Glasglow this year, those of us who are specialists in one of the apparatus events, including myself, need to win a medal to qualify for the Olympic Games. ■ It seems pretty frustrating? − It was even harder before; only the gymnast who won first place at the World Championships would qualify for the Olympics. Now, the first three do. The all-around events are still encouraged as a discipline, although the apparatus events are more attractive. Just like in athletics, few people come to the stadium to watch the decathlon. Most want to see who will win the hundred-metre race. And in gymnastics, they want to know who will win on the parallel bars, the pommel-horse, and on the horizontal bar. ■ Let us go back to height and weight for a second. It is not the norm for gymnasts to be so tall and heavy. − If I had started doing gymnastics on one of the big teams, like the Russian, American, or Chinese team, I definitely would not have made it to seniors because they would have eliminated me in tryouts right away because of my height. But seeing as we do not have such a wide selection in Croatia, every child here that is talented and really wants to train is kept on, even if he or she is somewhat taller

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than the rest. What follows though, is putting a lot of effort and work into reaching the top. ■ You started training when you were seven years old. − That is right, I started at seven under Æeljko JambroviÊ and I trained with him at Hrvatski Sokol in Zagreb until I turned 17. I not only did the all-around events, but also trained on all six apparatus events. At the age of 17, I performed for the first time at the Senior European Championships, but I did not get such great results. However, in some events, the horizontal bar being one of them, my performance was slightly above average. That was the moment when I started to think about what I should do next − if I should either dedicate myself to my studies, or give up gymnastics completely. Luckily, my coach now, Tigran GoriËki, was just starting his coaching career. He saw me and Marko Brez who was training with me. He approached us and suggested that we work together; his idea was to make us specialists on the apparatus. It seemed as if I had nothing to lose. I knew that I could hardly do anything in the all-around events with my proportions. It was decided that I would specialise on the horizontal bar and that I would completely dedicate myself to it. The coach made a wise decision. ■ It was a big change. − At first it was weird. At that time, only a few gymnasts were specialists in each individual apparatus event.We practically started at ground zero. After two years of work, we started to get some good results. At the age of 19, I came16th at the World Championships in Aarhus. I could see that it all made sense. ■ At only seven years old, you started to train for a sport that would, unfortunately, never get the same treatment as football, and at 17, you had a big dilemma on whether or not you should continue. You stayed in gymnastics. What was it that helped you make up your mind? − I was enrolled in gymnastics by my parents to help rid me of some extra energy. My parents are simple folks; there was no great ambition or goal in mind. I started training three times a week, which then led to training from Monday to Saturday, four hours a day, at the age of ten. As early as 12 years old, I went on my first long flight. It could have, in fact, been on Croatia Airlines. We flew to Moscow for preparations at the CSKA gymnastics centre. It was my first big journey, my first three-week long preparations. It was not easy, but once you get involved in all of that, gymnastics becomes part of you. At one point, when I was 16 or 17, I even stopped training for a month or two. Æeljko JambroviÊ CROATIA AIRLINES

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somehow managed to get me back. It was hard to picture myself not being a part of gymnastics, and everyone at school was already calling me − the gymnast. ■ What you are doing today on the horizontal bar is at a world level. How much training does it require? − Gymnastics is a very demanding sport and it affords you very little rest. During the summer, we have maybe ten days off in a row, and a week during the winter. In 12 months, there are only about three weeks when I am not in the gym on one of the apparatus. Currently, I have around 20 hours of training a week. However, I also need quality time between training sessions to focus on nutrition and rest. ■ You have never neglected your studies because of gymnastics. You graduated from the Faculty of Kinesiology and from the University College of Sports Management, and today, you even work as an assistant at the Faculty of Kinesiology. − I have never been a professional gymnast a 100 percent of the time. In our country, it is impossible to make a living from gymnastics alone. My priority has always been my education and then gymnastics. Or, let us say that, they were equally important. However, I would never have jeopardized my education for such results. ■ They call the horizontal bar the king of all apparatus. Why? − Because it is an attractive, dangerous piece of equipment. The horizontal bar is almost three metres high, and when you are performing the elements, you go up as high as five metres in the air and then drop and catch the horizontal bar. And the forces created during the exercise are enormous. ■ How did you create the element called the Moænik on the horizontal bar? Can anyone perform it better than you who gave it its name? − Haha, good question. Today, it is difficult to create something new because gymnastics has reached a level in which everything is new and very dangerous. There are very few gymnasts in world competitions today, who have their own element, only a few of them. Coach GoriËki thought of the idea; he is the author, and I am the performer. There is the Extended Tkachev, a flight over the horizontal bar with the body extended and a regrasp. The coach thought that I should rotate my body 180 degrees and instead of catching the bar in front of me, turn my head away from the horizontal bar and catch it from behind, practically blind. No one had ever done that before. It was illogical and dangerous. I tried and I succeeded. And 12

then the procedure of registering the element began. It needed to be performed correctly at the World Championships in 2007 for it to enter into regulation. The greatest judicial authorities marked it with a difficulty level of E, which is very good. The level of difficulty goes from A, the easiest, to G, the hardest. Today, the Moænik can be seen in every final of the World and European Championships and in the Olympic Games. ■ You once said that fear creates mistakes. Do you sometimes feel fear when you are on the horizontal bar? − The horizontal bar is a discipline which you cannot do if you are afraid. I generally have a high tolerance for fear. Not only do I do the horizontal bar, but I started doing various adrenaline-driven activities at 17. I have done a number of those kinds of hobbies, always pushing the limits. For example, I have bungee-jumped off the Maslenica Bridge, from a height of 56 metres while doing two-and-ahalf saltos and diving into the sea. ■ It seems that your somewhat different lifestyle has not gone unnoticed. − For this very reason, of being different from the average gymnast, and due to my height and weight, as well as having my own element, and participating in such adrenalinedriven hobbies, in 2011, I became a Red Bull athlete. It was a great honour. I was the first gymnast they chose, and currently, there is only one other British gymnast besides me with the honour. ■ How long can a gymnast last; how long can he/she perform at a top level? − I am 28 years old. Considering my proportions, I can surely do this for another Olympic cycle, that is until 2020. And then maybe a few more years. ■ So there will be Rio, and Tokyo as well? I would like that, but I cannot guarantee anything. It is literally a matter of centimetres that determines your place in the top 3. ■ When one is watching the gymnastics competitions, it seems that you are all bitter enemies. What is it like behind the scenes? − When we are in the competition room, everyone is thinking about their own exercises and performance. There is full concentration and little communication. Everything else is nice, good socializing. We often train together; we are all friends, and I am close with my competitors on the horizontal bar. There is not much hostility in gymnastics. ■ You do a lot of traveling. Do you get to see any of these countries and cities? − There are athletes who are not interested in anything but the hotels and the gymnastics

room. I am different. Wherever I go, I want to see everything, so my coach often has to keep an eye on me. There is enough time, especially in big competitions when we stay longer in the city. And by revisiting the cities we spend less time in, little by little, we end up seeing the entire city. ■ A few years ago you experienced a family tragedy. Your brother Darijo, also a gymnast, died. You dedicate all of your victories to him. − It is true, I suddenly lost my brother, and at that moment in my life, it was perhaps gymnastics itself that saved me from drowning in my own sorrow. I decided very quickly to continue training and to work even harder and decided that he would be my motivation for the future, that I would do everything for him. ■ You are third in the world on the horizontal bar event. Filip Ude, Robert Seligman, and Tomislav MarkoviÊ are also winning medals. It is quite a miracle for a small country like Croatia. - It is a huge miracle, although people are not aware of it. Indeed, we had no foundation in place for us at the onset or someone to push us forward. Gymnastics is one of the sports that all the world powers take seriously. Russia, America, China, Japan, and Germany all invest a lot in gymnastics and expect excellent results. We are the ﬁrst generation to make our way to the top. In gymnastics, you ﬁrst have to make a name for yourself. That is the hardest part. Maybe my generation will be able to change that. ■

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The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, 14

Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kultur nog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, nu me ro us an ci ent re ma ins, mo nu men ts of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2014. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 13,128.416 turista, od kojih je stranih 10,948.366. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima 66,483.948 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau toce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded about 13.13 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2014, of whom around 10.95 million were foreign tourists. Tourists realized 66,483,948 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

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excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lo wing de no mi na ti ons: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage CROATIA AIRLINES

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UMJETNOST ARTS

Piše/By Zlatko Madæar Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Impresivan je popis meunarodno priznatih hrvatskih glazbenika koji su svoje diplome stekli na MuziËkoj akademiji u Zagrebu, najstarijoj i najveÊoj visokoπkolskoj glazbenoj ustanovi u Republici Hrvatskoj. Nova zgrada MuziËke akademije, udaljena stotinjak metara od ZagrebaËke opere, odnedavna i svojom umjetniËki vrijednom glazbom dodatno oplemenjuje jedan od najljepπih zagrebaËkih trgova. The list of internationally-renowned Croatian musicians, who earned their diplomas at the Music Academy in Zagreb, the oldest and largest higher education institution for music in the Republic of Croatia, is really impressive. The new building of the Music Academy, situated a few hundred metres away from the Zagreb Opera building, embellishes one of the most beautiful squares in Zagreb and enriches the arts and culture scene. 16

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otovo cijelo 20. stoljeÊe, toËnije, sve do uspostavljanja dræavnog suvereniteta, ostvarenog 1991. godine − nesamostalna Hrvatska bila je utopljena u razliËite dræavne konglomerate (Austro-Ugarska Monarhija, Kraljevina Jugoslavija, Titova Jugoslavija), zbog Ëega je na meunarodnome planu bivala posve neraspoznatljivom. Tijekom tih devet proπlostoljetnih desetljeÊa hrvatskog (ne)postojanja, dobar glas o svojoj domovini diljem su svijeta pronosili njezini istaknuti pojedinci − znanstvenici, sportaπi, likovni umjetnici i osobito proslavljeni klasiËni glazbenici, jer univerzalno razumljiv govor glazbe oduvijek je najlakπe nadilazio jeziËne i ideoloπke barijere. Impresivan je popis tih meunarodno uglednih hrvatskih glazbenih poklisara, Ëija su nezaobilazna imena ostala trajno upisana u analima njujorπke Metropolitan opere (sopranistica Zinka Kunc Milanov), BeËke dræavne opere (sopranistice Sena Jurinac i Dragica Carla Martinis), NjemaËke opere u Berlinu (bas Tomislav NeraliÊ)… Na najveÊim opernim scenama i uglednim koncertnim podijima svijeta, dobar glas o Hrvatskoj takoer su pronosili skladatelji Milko Kelemen i Ivo Malec, dirigenti Milan Horvat, Pavle Deπpalj i Nikπa Bareza, ansambl ZagrebaËkih solista, mezzosopranistice Ruæa Pospiπ Baldani i Dunja VejzoviÊ, pijanistica Branka Musulin, a sada to podjednako zduπno Ëine i kornist Radovan VlatkoviÊ, dirigent Ivan RepuπiÊ, mezzosopranistica Renata PokupiÊ, gitarist Zoran DukiÊ, pijanistica Martina Filjak… Svi spomenuti glazbenici svoje su strukovne diplome stekli na MuziËkoj akademiji u Zagrebu, najstarijoj i najveÊoj visokoπkolskoj glazbenoj ustanovi u Republici Hrvatskoj, koja je izravna sljedbenica MuziËke πkole Hrvatskoga glazbenog zavoda, utemeljene daleke 1829. godine. Na prijelazu u 20. stoljeÊe πkola je prerasla u konzervatorij, a 1922. preimenovana je u Kraljevsku muziËku akademiju. Poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata MuziËka akademija postaje visokoπkolskom ustanovom, a od 1979. Ëlanicom SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu. Osobiti pedagoπki rezultati, relevantni i na meunarodnome planu, bili su profesionalnom konstantom slavne povijesti zagrebaËke MuziËke akademije, koja je − nemajuÊi vlastitu zgradu − pune 93 godine djelovala u beskuÊniËkim uvjetima. Osim u iznajmljenim i nedostatnim prostorima Hrvatskoga glazbenog zavoda, nastava se tako desetljeÊima morala odræavati na joπ nekoliko podstanarskih lokacija raπtrkanih po gradu Zagrebu, pa su profesori i njihovi studenti, sa svojim notama i glazbalima, neprestano trËkarali 24

od jednoga do drugog mjesta… Stoga bi se njihov dosadaπnji akademski æivot popriliËno toËno mogao opisati naslovom vokalnog ciklusa Gustava Mahlera, a taj glasi: Lieder eines fahrenden Gesellen (Pjesme putujuÊeg djetiÊa). U poËetku ove 2015. godine MuziËka akademija SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu napokon se uselila u vlastitu zgradu, sagraenu prema projektu arhitekta Milana ©osteriËa iz 2004. godine. Na 12.000 Ëetvornih metara (rasporeenih na dvije podzemne i osam nadzemnih eta æa) sada su primjereno udomljeni svi strukovni odsjeci Akademije, na kojima studira 550 mladih glazbenika. Na tom zacijelo najljepπem trgu zagrebaËkoga Donjega grada, sada i susjedski zbliæeni, zajedniËki stasaju buduÊi glazbenici, kazaliπtarci i ﬁlmaši, slikari i skulptori. Naime, na tom umjetniËkom trgu, pokraj Hrvatskoga narodnog kazaliπta i Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt, smjeπtena su Ëak tri umjetniËka uËiliπta: Akademija dramske umjetnosti, MuziËka akademija te ©kola primijenjene umjetnosti i dizajna. MuziËka akademija SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu − udaljena kojih stotinjak metara od zgrade ZagrebaËke opere − odnedavna i svojom umjetniËki vrijednom glazbom dodatno oplemenjuje taj prelijepi i znaËajnim sadræajima ispunjen zagrebaËki trg. MuziËka akademija SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu bila je podstanar u zgradi Hrvatskoga glazbenog zavoda u GunduliÊevoj ulici. Kako je broj studenata rastao, tako se poveÊavao broj lokacija za odræavanje nastave, pa se − pokraj zgrade za administraciju i upravu u BerislaviÊevoj ulici − MuziËka akademija proπirila na dodatne prostore u LuËiÊevoj i Frankopanskoj ulici. U novoj zgradi MuziËke akademije sada su smjeπteni svi odsjeci osim muzikoloπkoga, πto studentima uvelike olakπava organizaciju pohaanja nastave, studiranja i vjeæbanja. Za razliku od dosadaπnjih uvjeta, studenti i profesori sada rade u modernim i adekvatno opremljenim uËionicama, na novom instrumentariju i s najnovijom tehniËkom opremom. − Srce je zgrade koncertna dvorana od 300 mjesta, a æelimo da postane novo kulturno æariπte grada, gdje Êe se odræavati koncerti, seminari, operne produkcije studenata MuziËke akademije, ali i mnoge druge javne kulturne manifestacije kojima æelimo privuÊi brojnu publiku u naπu zgradu. Ako tome joπ dodamo nekoliko manjih koncertnih dvorana i uËionica, multimedijski studio, knjiænicu i Ëitaonicu, brojne uËionice i vjeæbaonice, onda se naπa nova zgrada s pravom moæe usporediti s ponajboljim europskim i svjetskim

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akademijama − kaže Dalibor CikojeviÊ, dekan MuziËke akademije SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu. − Nova zgrada bila je san gotovo svih mojih prethodnika, a o njoj su maπtale generacije i generacije profesora i studenata. Kontinuitet te æelje bio je dug i snaæan, a konkretne oblike projekt je poËeo poprimati za mandata Frane ParaÊa, koji je naπao lokaciju, proveo natjeËaj za idejno arhitektonsko rjeπenje − na kojemu je pobijedio rad Milana ©osteriËa − te potpisao sporazum o ﬁ nanciranju gradnje naπe nove zgrade. Njegov nasljednik Mladen Janjanin, uza svesrdnu pomoÊ svog tima prodekana, osobito Dragana Sremca zaduæenoga za gradnju nove zgrade, te Marine Novak i mene, sizifovskom upornoπÊu i diplomatskom umjeπnoπÊu u ovim teškim vremenima krize i recesije uspio je završiti gradnju tako zahtjevnog objekta. Nakon viπe od stotinu sjednica Povjerenstva za izgradnju nove zgrade, mene je na kraju dopala Ëast da je otvorim i poËnem s radom u novim prostorima. Sada je na nama zadatak da zgradu sadræajno i funkcionalno iskoristimo, ali nam je potrebna ﬁnancijska potpora za otvaranje novih radnih mjesta potrebnih za opsluæivanje i odræavanje tako kompleksnog objekta − nastavlja dekan CikojeviÊ. 26

− Uz veliku podrπku Grada Zagreba, te Ministarstva znanosti, obrazovanja i sporta, Hrvatska je, unatoË teπkim recesijskim vremenima, dobila prekrasnu novu zgradu, svojevrsnu arhitektonsku i kulturoloπku ikonu koja je oplemenila jedan od najljepπih trgova grada Zagreba. I zato sada u ime svih proπlih, sadaπnjih i buduÊih naraštaja glazbenika s ponosom mogu reÊi: Imamo zgradu! Hvala cijeloj Hrvatskoj na tome. .

or almost the entire 20 th century − more precisely, until the establishment of its state sovereignty achieved in 1991 − dependent Croatia had been immersed in various state conglomerates (the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Tito’s Yugoslavia), which made it unrecognisable internationally. During those nine decades of the last century of Croatian (non-)existence, a good word about their homeland was spread by prominent individuals − scientists, athletes, visual artists and particularly highly acclaimed classical musicians, because the universally understandable language of music has always been the best way of overcoming language and ideological barriers. The list of internationally renowned Croatian

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music ambassadors, whose unavoidable names have remained permanently recorded in the annals of New York’s Metropolitan Opera (soprano Zinka Kunc Milanov), the Vienna State Opera (soprano Sena Jurinac and Dragica Carla Martinis), the German Opera of Berlin (bass Tomislav NeraliÊ), to mention but a few, is really impressive. On the world’s greatest opera stages and prestigious concerts, a good word about Croatia has also been spread by composers Milko Kelemen and Ivo Malec, conductors Milan Horvat, Pavle Deπpalj and Nikπa Bareza, the Zagreb Soloists ensemble, the mezzo-sopranos Ruæa Pospiπ Baldani and Dunja VejzoviÊ, the pianist Branka Musulin, and today just as heartily by the horn player Radovan VlatkoviÊ, conductor Ivan RepuπiË, mezzo-soprano Renata PokupiÊ, guitarist Zoran DukiÊ, pianist Martina Filjak, etc. All of the listed musicians earned their professional diplomas at the Music Academy in Zagreb, the oldest and largest higher education music institution in the Republic of Croatia, which is the direct successor of the Music School of the Croatian Music Institute, founded way back in 1829. At the turn of the 20th century, the School became a conservatory, and in 1922 it was renamed the Royal CROATIA AIRLINES

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THE LIGHTNESS ESS OF BEING ISTRIA

Vina Laguna Malvazija This is the wine that truly deﬁnes the lightnesss of being Istria. Here, where Alpine and Medi-terranean climates meet in harmony, is thee home of the Malvasia Istriana grape variety, y, though it is also found across the Italian n border. There are many types (or clones) off this variety grown, particularly around thee Mediterranean, but here, on this most north-erly Adriatic peninsula, Malvasia ﬁnds its high h point: pure, bright, fresh and fragrant.

Mundus Vini , Spring taste, Neustadt 2014. Vinagora, Budapest , 2014. IWC London, 2013.

gold medall silver medall bronce medall

Academy of Music. After World War II, the Music Academy became a higher education institution, and since 1979 a constituent unit of the University of Zagreb. Exceptional pedagogical results, which have been just as relevant internationally, have been a professional constant of the glorious history of Zagreb’s Music Academy which, although it had never had its own building, operated in barely bearable homeless conditions for 93 years. Along with the inadequate rented premises of the Croatian Music Institute, classes had to be held at several rented premises scattered all over Zagreb for decades, which made both professors and students constantly scurry from one place to another with their music sheets and instruments. In other words, their earlier academic life could be described quite accurately by the title of a vocal cycle by Gustav Mahler, which is as follows: Lieder eines fahrenden Gesellen (Songs of a Wayfarer). In early 2015, the Music Academy of the University of Zagreb finally moved into its own building, constructed following the 2004 design of architect Milan ©osteriË. The 12,000 square metres (distributed into two underground floors and eight aboveground fl oors) now house all of the professional departments of the Academy, where 550 young musicians are currently studying. At the most beautiful square of Zagreb’s Lower Town, future musicians, theatre personnel and filmmakers, painters and sculptors now grow together brought closer by vicinity. In fact, at this Square of Arts, next to the Croatian National Theatre and the Museum of Arts and Crafts, there are three additional art institutions: the Academy of Dramatic Art, the Music Academy and the School of Applied Arts and Design. The Music Academy of the University of Zagreb, situated a few hundred metres away from the Zagreb Opera building, has recently started additionally enriching this beautiful square rich in important facilities. The Music Academy of the University of Zagreb has been a tenant in the building of the Croatian Music Institute on GunduliÊeva Street. As the number of students increased, so did the number of teaching locations and, in addition to the administration building on BerislaviÊeva Street, the Music Academy expanded to additional premises on LuËiÊeva Street and Frankopanska Street. All the Departments, except for Musicology, are now located in the new building of the Music Academy, which greatly facilitates the organisation of classes, studying and

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practicing. As opposed to the conditions they had before, both students and professors now work in modern and well-equipped classrooms, with new instruments and stateof-the-art technical equipment. − The heart of the building is a 300-seat concert hall, which we would like to make the new cultural centre of Zagreb where concerts, seminars, opera productions by students of the Music Academy are held, as well as many other public cultural events, wishing to attract large audiences to our building. With some smaller concert halls and classrooms, a multimedia studio, a library and a reading room, numerous classrooms and practice rooms, our new building could rightfully be compared with some of the best European and global academies, says Dalibor CikojeviÊ, Dean of the University of Zagreb Music Academy. − A new building had been a dream of almost all of my predecessors, and a fantasy for generations of professors and students. The continuity of this wish remained long and strong, and the project began to take on a concrete form during the mandate of Frano ParaÊ who found the location, conducted a competition for an architectural project − where the work of Milan ©osteriË won − and signed an agreement on the fi nancing of the construction of our new building. With Sisyphean persistence and diplomatic skill, in these diffi cult times of crisis and recession, his successor Mladen Janjanin managed to finalise the construction of such a demanding facility with the help of his team of vice deans, especially Dragan Sremac responsible for the construction of the new building, Marina Novak and myself. After the Commission for the Construction of the New Building held over a hundred sessions, in the end I had the honour of opening it and beginning with activities in the new premises. Now, it is our task to make use of the building’s content and functions, and we are in need of fi nancial support for the opening of new jobs needed for the servicing and maintenance of such a complex facility, continues Dean CikojeviÊ. − With great support from the City of Zagreb and the Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, despite these difficult times of recession, Croatia has obtained a beautiful new building, an architectural and cultural icon which embellishes one of the most beautiful squares in Zagreb. And for this reason, on behalf of all past, present and future generations of musicians, I can proudly say that, fi nally, We have a building! I thank all of Croatia for that. W 30

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ZagrebaËka katedrala oko 1910., nakon zavrπene restauracije izvedene prema projektu Friedricha Schmidta i Hermanna Bolléa 1879.−1902./

The Zagreb Cathedral circa 1910, after the restoration works which lasted from 1879 to 1902, according to Friedrich Schmidt and Hermann Bollé’s design CROATIA AIRLINES

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IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS

Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Dragan DamjanoviÊ

Hermann Bollé jedan je od najvaænijih hrvatskih arhitekata kraja 19. i poËetka 20. stoljeÊa. Graevinama koje je projektirao, kao i djelatnoπÊu na podruËju umjetniËkog obrta, znatno je pridonio preobrazbi Zagreba u modernu srednjoeuropsku metropolu. ZagrebaËki Muzej za umjetnost i obrt u povodu 135. obljetnice svoga postojanja posveÊuje stoga ovome arhitektu veliku izloæbu, koja Êe se otvoriti 21. oæujka ove godine. Hermann Bollé was one of the most signiﬁcant Croatian architects at the turn of the 20th century. His building designs and applied arts projects went a long way in transforming Zagreb into a modern Central European metropolis. To commemorate the 135th anniversary of its existence, Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts is paying homage to this architect by holding a large exhibition, which is set to open on March 21st of this year. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Unutraπnjost svetiπta zagrebaËke katedrale/ The Zagreb Cathedral − the interior

HodoËasniËki kompleks u Mariji Bistrici/ Marija Bistrica − the pilgrimage complex

ermann Bollé roen je 1845. u Kölnu na Rajni, gradu koji je velik dio 19. stoljeÊa zavrπavao svoju katedralu, jedan od najveÊih srednjovjekovnih spomenika u Europi. U tadaπnju Austro-Ugarsku Monarhiju seli se 1872., najprije u BeË, gdje radi u atelijeru Friedricha von Schmidta, graditelja beËke gradske vijeÊnice i restauratora tamoπnje katedrale svetog Stjepana. Od 1875-76. godine poËinje raditi za Hrvatsku zbog nastojanja akovaËkog biskupa Josipa Jurja Strossmayera i prvoga hrvatskog povjesniËara umjetnosti Ise Krπnjavoga, koji su u Bolléu prepoznali talent kakav je u tom trenutku trebala hrvatska umjetnost. Kao Schmidtov pomoÊnik poËinje raditi u –akovu na zavrπavanju katedrale, a u Zagrebu na restauriranju crkve svetog Marka i katedrale, te gradnji palaËe Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti. Upravo Êe ga rad na restauriranju zagrebaËke katedrale i nagnati na selidbu u Hrvatsku potkraj 1879. godine. U Zagrebu Êe ostati æivjeti i raditi gotovo pet desetljeÊa, sve do smrti 1926. godine. Monumentalni Zagreb 19. stoljeÊa velikim je dijelom njegovo djelo. Gradom dominiraju njegovi tornjevi zagrebaËke katedrale te franjevaËke, grkokatoliËke, pravoslavne i evangeliËke crkve. Jednako tako, mnoge su kljuËne nacionalne institucije toga doba udomljene u zgradama koje je projektirao: Muzej za umjetnost i obrt i Obrtna πkola na Trgu marπala Tita, danaπnja Ekonomska πkola (prije UËiteljska πkola) u MeduliÊevoj, Knjiænica HAZU na Strossmayerovom trgu, djelomiËno i palaËa Akademije i druge. Najvaænije njegovo djelo u Zagrebu i kompleks zbog kojega je ovaj grad vaæno središte europske arhitekture 19. stoljeÊa, bez ikakve je sumnje arhitektonski okvir mirogojskoga groblja. Ni mnogo veÊi srednjoeuropski gradovi toga doba poput BeËa, Budimpeπte ili Praga nisu uspjeli sagraditi tako monumentalno posljednje poËivaliπte svojih sugraana. Po Bolléovim su projektima mirogojske arkade graene u vrlo dugom razdoblju od 1879. do kraja 1930-ih, dakle i nakon njegove smrti. Kompleks krune dviju reprezentativnih sakralnih graevina − katoliËka kapela Krista Kralja smjeπtena uz srediπnji ulaz u Mirogoj i pravoslavna kapela svetih Petra i Pavla. Sakralna arhitektura bila je podruËje za koje se Bollé primarno specijalizirao, pa mu je zagrebaËki tisak nadjenuo jednom prilikom nadimak hramograditelj. Njegov su talent prepoznale i cijenile sve vjerske zajednice, rimokatoliËka, grkokatoliËka, pravoslavna, evangeliËka i æidovska. Nakon πto je temeljito preoblikovao zagrebaËku katedralu, katoliËke æupe povjerile su mu restauraciju hodoËasniËkog kompleksa u Mariji Bistrici, crkvi u Remetama, Iloku, Jastrebarskom, Bjelovaru i mnogih drugih. Pravoslavnima restaurira katedralu u Pakracu, gradsku zagrebaËku crkvu te manastir Grgeteg na Fruπkoj gori, grkokatolicima

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Sjeverni toranj zagrebaËke katedrale/ The Zagreb Cathedral − the northern belfry

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Zgrada Zemaljske muπke obrtne πkole i Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu, prema slici Roberta Auera iz 1900. godine/ The building of the National Crafts School for Males and the Museum of Arts and Crafts, as depicted in this a 1900 painting by Robert Auer

Trg bana JelaËiÊa u Zagrebu u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa − nadesno se vidi palaËa Pongratz, a nalijevo ugao kuÊe StankoviÊ, obje djelo Hermanna Bolléa/ Ban JelaËiÊ Square in Zagreb in the early 20th century − the Pongratz Palace can be seen on the right, and the StankoviÊ residence on the left, both designed by Hermann Bollé

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i zagrebaËku gradsku crkvu i katedralu u Kriæevcima, a za æidovsku zajednicu projektira grobni kompleks na Mirogoju. Bolléa su u to vrijeme angaæirale i mnoge zagrebaËke graanske obitelji. Za jednoga od najvaænijih hrvatskih poduzetnika, Guidu Pongratza, gradi tako 1885-86. tada najveÊu najamnu stambeno-poslovnu zgradu u Hrvatskoj − na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa br. 3 (poslije sruπena). Obitelj Weiss povjerava mu pak 1890. gradnju vile na PantovËaku, nedaleko od koje Êe poslije niknuti predsjedniËki dvori, a obitelj Adrowski-UnukiÊ angaæira ga 1894. godine na ureenju svoje vile u Jurjevskoj 27. UËestalo radi i za hrvatsko plemstvo: zagrebaËke JelaËiÊe, Rauchove i Sermage, naπiËke PejaËeviÊe, valpovaËke Normanne, turopoljske plemiÊe i mnoge druge. Najreprezentativniji interijeri zagrebaËke arhitekture 19. stoljeÊa njegovo su djelo − bogato opremljene prostorije nekadaπnjeg Odjela hrvatske zemaljske vlade za bogoπtovlje i nastavu (danas Hrvatski institut za povijest) u OpatiËkoj 10, te glavna soba za primanja u zagrebaËkom nadbiskupskom dvoru. Bollé je radio u gotovo svim stilovima karakteristiËnim za kraj 19. i poËetak 20. stoljeÊa. Najskloniji je bio neogotici, no jednako je Ëesto radio i u neorenesansnom stilu, a rjee u neoromaniËkom i secesijskom. Stvorio je i svoju osobnu verziju neobizantskog stila te imao kljuËnu ulogu u pokuπaju deﬁniranja hrvatskoga narodnog stila u arhitekturi, baziranoga na tradicijskom graditeljstvu istoËne Slavonije i Srijema. U tom je stilu podigao raskoπne i pomalo neuobiËajene hrvatske paviljone na izloæbama u Trstu (1882.), Budimpeπti (1885. i 1896.) te u Zagrebu (1906.), a zanimljivo je i danas postojeÊe svjedoËanstvo toga njegova stilskog pristupa − drvena kapela svetog Antuna u Gustelnici, nedaleko od Zagreba. Hermann Bollé imao je kljuËnu ulogu u osnivanju zagrebaËke Obrtne πkole. Kao njezin dugogodiπnji profesor i ravnatelj obrazovao je niz naraštaja ne samo vaænih obrtnika (klesara, stolara, kovaËa, limara) nego jednako tako i buduÊih kljuËnih hrvatskih umjetnika, kipara, slikara i arhitekata poput Roberta Frangeπa MihanoviÊa, Rudolfa Valdeca, Vjekoslava Bastla, Viktora KovaËiÊa i mnogih drugih. ZagrebaËki majstori po njegovim Êe projektima izvoditi mnoge elemente urbane opreme: fontane, ulazna vrata zgrada, ograde balkona i stubiπta, oslike. Bolléova virtuoznost u projektiranju predmeta umjetniËkog obrta moæda najviπe dolazi do izraæaja na ilustriranom akvariju u kojemu je bila predstavljena fauna Hrvatskog primorja na Milenijskoj izloæbi u Budimpeπti 1896. godine. Joπ za posljednjih godina æivota u BeËu Bollé sklapa brak s Ana Marijom, ro. Hoffer, porijeklom iz Gornje Austrije. Nisu imali vlastite djece pa su posvojili treÊe dijete Bolléova brata Eduarda, kazaliπnog umjetnika, koji je æivio i radio u Berlinu: Hertu Elsu Mariju Bollé. Herta, roena 1881., u ranom se djetinjstvu seli u Zagreb, gdje zavrπava πkolu i gdje se, u 23. godini, udaje za pravnika Guida SoretiÊa s kojim se poslije seli u Rumu u Srijemu, gdje Êe SoretiÊi godinama posjedovati odvjetniËki ured. Brzi napredak u karijeri omoguÊio mu je 1898-99. podizanje kuÊe u ÆerjaviÊevoj 4, na rubu SvaËiÊeva trga u Zagrebu. Reprezentativna neorenesansna dvokatnica sada je naæalost veoma zapuπtena. SaËuvane fotograﬁje unutraπnjosti danas pustoga stana Bolléovih svjedoËe kako je i u svoj svakodnevni æivot Bollé unio namjeπtaj izraen u radionicama Obrtne πkole. Na zidu jedne od soba visjelo je zrcalo s okvirom koji se prije nalazio na jednome od oltara zagrebaËke katedrale. Donji dijelovi zidova bili su prekriveni Êilimima, a gornji dekorativno oslikani te CROATIA AIRLINES

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su asocirali na bogato polikromirane unutraπnjosti sakralnih i javnih graevina koje je opremio. Zbog bliskosti s banom Dragutinom KhuenHedérváryjem te opÊenito tadaπnjim vlastima u Hrvatskoj, kao i zbog toga πto mu se pripisivala krivnja za pretjerano agresivne zahvate na zagrebaËkoj katedrali i drugim spomenicima, za koje se smatralo da su uniπtile njihovu povijesnu slojevitost, Bollé je dugo bio nepoæeljna osoba hrvatske povijesti umjetnosti. Konzervator –uro Szabo isticao je tako da u Hrvatskoj joπ od Tatara nitko nije toliko toga uniπtio. Iako je nesumnjivo za æaljenje πto su barokni oltari uklonjeni iz zagrebaËke katedrale i brojnih drugih crkava, treba istaknuti da je Bollé velik dio graevina morao opseænije sanirati nakon jakog potresa koji je pogodio Zagreb i okolicu 9. studenog 1880., kao i da je radio u duhu vremena, tadaπnje teænje za jedinstvom i ËistoÊom stila. Ali restaurirajuÊi graevine, stvorio je nove vrijednosti i pruæio priliku hrvatskim obrtnicima da opreme i ukrase sakralne i profane prostore, da stvore neka od najvaænijih djela hrvatske arhitekture, umjetnosti i dizajna kraja 19. i poËetka 20. stoljeÊa. .

Ikonostas i unutraπnjost grkokatoliËke katedrale Sv. Trojstva u Kriæevcima/ Iconostasis and the interior of the Greek Catholic Cathedral of the Holy Trinity in Kriæevci

Ikonostas pravoslavne crkve u Zagrebu/ Iconostasis of the Orthodox church in Zagreb

ermann Bollé was born in 1845 in Cologne, upon the Rhine, where work to complete the city's cathedral, one of the most monumental medieval buildings in all of Europe, lasted for the better part of the 19th century. He moved to the then Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1872, and took up his first residence in Vienna, where he worked in the atelier of Friedrich von Schmidt, the architect of the Viennese Town Hall and the restorer of the Viennese Cathedral of St. Stephen. From 1875-76, he started working on commissions in Croatia where the Bishop of –akovo, Josip Juraj Strossmayer, and the first Croatian art historian, Iso Krπnjavi, recognised in Bollé just the kind of talent that Croatian art needed at that moment. As Schmidt’s assistant, he started working in –akovo, on the project to complete the cathedral, and in Zagreb, on the projects to renovate the Church of St. Mark and the city's cathedral and to construct a palace that would house the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences. His work on the restoration of the Zagreb Cathedral would eventually force him to move to Croatia in late 1879. He would remain living and working in Zagreb for the next five decades, until his death in 1926. The monumental Zagreb of the 19th century owes much of its appearance to Bollé. The city is dominated by his belfries, those of the cathedral, and those of the Franciscan, Greek-Catholic, Orthodox and Evangelical churches. Likewise, many of the key national institutions, which were first established at the time, found their homes in the buildings that he designed: the Museum of Arts and Crafts and the Crafts Schools on Marshal Tito’s

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Square, the current High School of Economics (the former Teachers' High School) in MeduliÊeva Street, the HAZU Library on Strossmayer Square, parts of the Academy Palace itself and others. His most emblematic work in Zagreb, which makes the city an important centre of 19th century European architecture, is undoubtedly the architectural complex of the Mirogoj Cemetery. Not even the much bigger Central European cities, such as Vienna, Budapest or Prague, have managed to build such monumental last resting places for their citizens. The Mirogoj arcades were built according to Bollé’s designs. The construction took quite a long period of time, between 1879 and the late 1930s, i.e. work continued even after his death. The complex is crowned by two important sacral buildings − the Chapel of Christ the King, adjacent to the main entrance to Mirogoj, and the Orthodox Chapel of St. Peter and Paul. Sacral architecture was Bollé’s forte, so much so that Zagreb’s printed media dubbed him the temple builder. His talent was recognised and valued by all religious communities, Roman Catholic, Greek Catholic, Orthodox, Evangelistic and the Jewish religion alike. Having thoroughly remodelled the Zagreb Cathedral, he was entrusted by the Catholic parishes to restore the

Kapela Krista Kralja na mirogojskom groblju/ The Chapel of Christ the King at the Mirogoj Cemetery

Hrvatski paviljon na Milenijskoj izloæbi u Budimpeπti 1896. godine/ The Croatian Pavilion at the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest in 1896 CROATIA AIRLINES

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Pompejska soba palaËe Odjela za bogoπtovlje i nastavu hrvatske Zemaljske vlade u OpatiËkoj 10/ The Pompeii Room in the palace of the Croatian National Government’s Department for Religious Education at 10, OpatiËka Street

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pilgrimage complex in Marija Bistrica, the churches in Remete, Ilok, Jastrebarsko, Bjelovar and many others. The Orthodox Church commissioned him to restore the cathedral in Pakrac, the city church in Zagreb and the Grgeteg Monastery in Fruπka Gora. The Greek Catholics hired him to refurbish their city church in Zagreb and the cathedral in Kriæevci, while he also designed the designated cemetery complex in Mirogoj on commission by the Jewish community. Bollé was also recruited by a number of Zagreb’s bourgeois families, including one of the most important Croatian entrepreneurs, Guido Pongratz, who had the biggest residential and ofﬁce building in Croatia, constructed at 3, Ban JelaËiÊ Square in 1885-86 (the building has since been torn down). In 1890, the Weiss family entrusted him with the building of their villa in PantovËak, close to the location of the future presidential palace, while the Adrowski-UnukiÊ family hired him in 1894, to decorate their villa at 27, Jurjevska Street. He also got commissions from the Croatian nobility: the JelaËiÊ, Rauch and Sermage families of Zagreb, the PejaËeviÊ family of Naπice, the Normanns of Valpovo, the Turopolje nobles and many others. Zagreb owes some of its most representative 19th century interiors to him − the opulent premises of the former Croatian National Government’s Department for Religious Education (the current Croatian History Institute) at 10 OpatiËka Street and the main reception room of the Archbishop’s residence in Zagreb. Bollé’s work spanned nearly all styles typical of the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. He was most prone to the Neogothic and Neo-Renaissance style, and somewhat less to the Neo-Romanesque and Viennese Secession styles. He created his own personal version of the Neo-Byzantine style and played a pivotal role in the attempt to deﬁne the Croatian national style in architecture, based on the traditional architecture of Eastern Slavonia and Srijem. It was in this style that the most lavish and somewhat quirky Croatian pavilions were constructed for the exhibitions in Trieste (1882), Budapest (1885 and 1896), and in Zagreb itself (1906). Interestingly enough, the wooden Chapel of St. Anthony in Gustelnica near Zagreb still bears witness to his approach to style in architecture. Hermann Bollé played a crucial role in the establishment of Zagreb’s School of Crafts. As its lecturer and headmaster for a number of years, he participated in the education of generations of not only important craftsmen (stone masons, carpenters, blacksmiths, tinsmiths), but also of key future Croatian artists, sculptors, painters and architects, including Robert Frangeπ MihanoviÊ, Rudolf Valdec, Vjekoslav Bastl, Viktor KovaËiÊ and many others. Zagreb’s master craftsmen would continue to use his designs to create many

Stubiπte palaËe Odjela za bogoπtovlje i nastavu hrvatske Zemaljske vlade u OpatiËkoj 10/ The staircase in the palace of the Croatian National Government’s Department for Religious Education at OpatiËka 10

Ograda atrija Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt/ The fence around the atrium of the Museum of Arts and Crafts CROATIA AIRLINES

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Akvarij na Milenijskoj izloæbi u Budimpeπti iz 1896. godine/ The aquarium at the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest in 1896

ZagrebaËka katedrala prije restauracije; fotograﬁja Ivana Standla s poËetka 1870-ih/ The Zagreb Cathedral before restoration; photo taken by Ivan Standl in the early 1870s

elements of urban design: fountains, building entrance gates, balcony fences and staircases, as well as wall decorations. Bollé’s virtuosity in designing objects of applied arts was probably best depicted by the lavishly-decorated aquarium which showcased the fauna of Croatian littoral at the Millennium Exhibition in Budapest in 1896. While still living in Vienna, Bollé married Ana Maria, née Hoffer, from Upper Austria. Since they did not have their own biological children, they adopted the third offspring of Bollé’s brother Eduard, a theatre artist who lived and worked in Berlin; Herta Elsa Marija Bollé. Herta, who was born in 1881, moved to Zagreb as a young child, completed her education there and then, at the age of 23, married lawyer Guido SoretiÊ with whom she moved to Ruma in Srijem. For a number of years, the SoretiÊes had a law ﬁrm there. Bollé’s career advanced so fast that he was able to build a house in 1898 and 1989, at 4, ÆerjaviÊeva Street on the edge of SvaËiÊ Square in Zagreb. A representative NeoRenaissance two-storey building is now sadly uncared for. The photos of the interior of the empty Bollé residence show that the architect brought furniture into his everyday life which was crafted in the workshops of the Crafts School. A framed mirror, which had once adorned an altar in the Zagreb Cathedral, hangs on the wall in one of the rooms. The lower parts of the walls were covered by oriental rugs, while the upper parts were elaborately decorated and thus, evoked the sumptuous polychrome interiors of the sacral and public buildings he designed and decorated. Due to his closeness to the Viceroy Dragutin Khuen-Hedérváry and Croatian authorities in general, and due to the fact that he was blamed for the excessive interventions on Zagreb’s cathedral and other monuments, which were believed to have ruined the buildings’ historical complexity, Bollé was a persona non grata in Croatian art history for a long time. Curator –uro Szabo was known to claim that nobody had caused so much destruction in Croatia from the times of the Tatars. While it is indeed regrettable that Baroque altars were removed from the Zagreb Cathedral and so many other churches, it should be said that Bollé was forced to undertake rather complex restoration works on most of those buildings after a massive earthquake affected Zagreb and its environs on November 9th, 1880; and by doing so, he respected the spirit of the time and achieved his desire for harmony and purity of style. By restoring the buildings he did, he created new value and provided Croatian craftsmen with opportunities to ﬁt out and decorate sacral and public sites and thus, created some of the most important works in Croatian architecture, art and design at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. W

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA CONTINENTAL CROATIA

Tekst i fotograﬁje/ Text and photos Goran Šafarek

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Gorski kotar planinski je kraj Hrvatske, koji se pomalo uzdiæe iz nizina srediπnje Hrvatske. Uzdiæe se negdje strmo, drugdje blago nad sunËanim Kvarnerom i s oËaravajuÊim pogledima na more, a na jugu postupno se spuπta na blago valovitu visoravan Like.

Gorski Kotar is Croatia’s mountainous region, which rises slowly from the lowlands of Central Croatia. Its slopes, above sunny Kvarner Bay, gentle in places and steep in others, command breathtaking views of the sea, while in the south its hills descend gently down to the mildly-undulating plateau of Lika.

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Mnoga lica rijeke Kupe − zabava, mir, prirodna i kulturna baπtina The many faces of the Kupa River − fun, tranquility, a natural and cultural heritage

orski kotar mnogima je samo mnogo πume i pokoje selo na putu iz Zagreba prema Rijeci, Kvarneru ili Istri. No, osim πto je godinama srediπte πumarstva i drvne industrije, taj dio Hrvatske svojom oËuvanom prirodom postaje vrlo vaæno turistiËko odrediπte. Gorski kotar planinski je kraj Hrvatske, koji se pomalo uzdiæe iz nizina srediπnje Hrvatske. Priljubljen je sjevernim dijelom na planine Slovenije, no dijelom odvojen od nje zelenim dolinama Kupe i »abranke. S druge strane uzdiæe se negdje strmo, drugdje blago nad sunËanim Kvarnerom i s oËaravajuÊim pogledima na more, a na jugu postupno se spuπta na blago valovitu visoravan Like. Gorski kotar buja i zeleni se na svakom koraku, za razliku od surovoga i πkrtog krπa Like, a osobito obale, gdje vlada suhi kamenjar. Vlaæan morski zrak, ovdje tjeran vjetrovima, plazi na vrhove planina, hladi se na visini pa iz teπkih oblaka lije mnogo kiπe, a zimi zameÊe snijeg. Ne Ëudi stoga πto je upravo taj kraj najvlaæniji u cijeloj Hrvatskoj, jer na veÊim visinama teπki i olovni oblaci izliju više od 3000 mm kiπe i snijega. Sivo nebo Ëesta je slika, a i kada je sunËano, magla Ëesto ispunjava doline veÊi dio jutra. Takoer, oπtre zime traju dugo, pa mekane i bijele padine ostaju obavijene debelim snjeænim pokrivaËem i nekoliko mjeseci. Dok se prvi turisti u Opatiji veÊ sunËaju na plaæama, na sjevernim padinama i u ponikvama joπ se bijeli snijeg. Iako su ljudi podigli mnoga mjesta i prometnice, πuma je pravi gospodar Gorskog kotara i proteæe se od rubova naseljenih dolina pa gotovo sve do vrhova. Bukva ovdje raste uz bok s kraljicom πume − jelom, njihova divovska stabla uzdiæu se visoko prema nebu. Miris crnogorice i svjeæ planinski zrak pune pluÊa divljinom dok vjetar huËi u iskonskoj igri kroz guste kroπnje s iglicama. Te πume rastu na propusnoj krπkoj podlozi koja vlada juænom Hrvatskom, no zbog obilja vlage ovdje izvrsno uspijevaju. Stabla rastu Ëak i iz kamena, na velikim strminama kao i u ponikvama, dubokim udubljenjima tako tipiËnima za krπ. Te su πume bogate biljnim vrstama, obogaÊene speciﬁËnim dinarskim vrstama, ali i onima s Alpa na sjeveru. Divne maljave cvjetove runolista nalazimo na stijenama, a Ëesto su u kombinaciji sa zapanjujuÊim krajolicima i pogledima. Ponegdje usred πuma izranjaju proplanci, s pokojim mladim stablom. Ti planinski travnjaci u proljeÊe se zaπarene proljetnicama koje ljeti buknu u punom sjaju, prepuni osobito orhideja. Nestankom tradicionalnog stoËarstva koje ih je ispaπom odræavalo, takve travnjake malo-pomalo u svoj zagrljaj vraÊa πuma, πto je velika πteta za bioloπku raznolikost. Jedino

na najviπim predjelima hladnoÊa i vjetar svojim hladnim rukama dræe πumu podalje od livada, ali uz visoku cijenu stalne i surove izloæenosti elementima atmosfere. Najviπi su takvi vrhovi Veliki Risnjak, Ëiji se kameni vrh uzdiæe poput krova, a s njega puca pogled i na more udaljeno samo petnaestak kilometara, ali i na udaljenije Alpe. SliËni su i Bitoraj i Snjeænik, no veÊina je goranskih vrhova πumovita. Ipak, stijene vladaju na jednome mjestu, i to na osobit naËin. Vitki i na suncu bljeπtavo bijeli tornjevi Bijelih i Samarskih stijena uzdiæu se desecima metara iznad πume, poput kula nekoga zaboravljenoga vilinskoga grada. U podnoæju izmeu njih nedostupna je, prava dæungla, gdje smreke izlaze iz gole stijene i gdje je groblje palih stabala. Ipak, dobro oznaËene planinarske staze vjeπto obilaze te stijene, kao i mnoge vrhove i zanimljive zakutke Gorskog kotara. Planinarenje je veoma popularno, a planinarski domovi, kuÊe i skloniπta omoguÊuju duæi boravak u prirodi. Zbog njih generacije ljubitelja prirode mogle su uæivati ne samo na svjeæem zraku, nego i u posvemašnjemu miru, tiπini, s poπtovanjem prema planini. Kasno poslijepodne i naveËer, kada planinari zagriju vatru u peÊima skloniπta, priroda vraÊa svoj mir. Nakon πto se uvjerila da je nastupio mir u πumi, medvjedica izvodi medvjediÊe u potragu za hranom. Iako su uvijek nestaπni, svaku igru prekidaju nakon majËinoga znaka upozorenja. Ris se pak nakon dnevnog odmora na preglednim liticama vraÊa do plijena koji je ulovio noÊ prije. Svake veËeri, nakon hranjenja, ponovno liπÊem i travom prekriva plijen kako ga ne bi pronaπli strvinari. Tako plijen odraslom risu potraje i do sedam dana. Gorski kotar carstvo je divljih æivotinja, pogotovo zvijeri, gdje nalazimo i medvjeda i risa i vuka, πto je zaista rijetko na starom kontinentu, gdje je taj trojac davno protjeran. Na planinski hrbat naveËer izlaze i srne te jeleni, njihove siluete jasno se naziru na zalazeÊem suncu. Ispod njih u jednakoj su mjeri oprezni na zavijanje vuka i stada podivljalih konja. Planinarske staze spuπtaju se i u strme kanjone rjeËica i potoka. Zeleni vir izvire ispod mjesta Skrad, u maloj πpilji, a iz njega nakon nekoliko slapiÊa nastaje i jezerce. Divlji potok Curak poskakuje preko brzica, a sve u raskoπnom okruæju stabala ogrnutih papratima i mahovinama. U blizini izvora spektakularni je slap visok 70 m, koji se prelijeva preko goleme litice u podnoæju koje je velika peÊina. S druge strane spaja se joπ jedno Ëudo prirode, Vraæji prolaz, gdje voda klokoÊe, pjeni se i prska dok se probija kroz veoma uzak i strmi kanjon usjeËen u gole litice. SreÊom, vrijedne su ruke Gorana sagradile stazu doslovno kroz kanjon i omoguÊile da zavirimo u najveÊu intimu

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Zeleni vir kod Skrada Zeleni Vir near Skrad CROATIA AIRLINES

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Golema Ď&#x20AC;umska prostranstva Gorskog kotara The vast woodland of Gorski Kotar

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Uživanje na Kupi Having fun on the Kupa River

Izvor KamaËnika The KamaËnik Source

Bijele i Samarske stijene The White Cliffs and the Samarian Cliffs

Rodna kuÊa pisca Ivana Gorana KovaËiÊa The birthplace of writer, Ivan Goran KovaËiÊ

najdubljih dijelova, sve do joπ jedne peÊine − Muæeve Hiæice. Ureeno izletiπte KamaËnik kod mjesta Vrbovsko kratki je, ali vrlo atraktivni pritok rijeke Dobre s brzicama i slapovima. U Gorskom kotaru izvire rijeka Kupa, u Ëudesnom jezercu do kojeg voda izvire iz podzemlja, iz dubine veÊe od stotinu metara. Zatim u prvim kilometrima hita i poskakuje preko brojnih brzica i kamenja i ulazi u prostranu i duboku dolinu i od tada tvori granicu Slovenije i Hrvatske. Usred te prirode, u dolinama ili na proplancima i najËeπÊe uz prometnice udobno su se smjestila ljupka goranska mjesta s joπ oËuvanim tradicionalnim kuÊama od kamenja i drva, materijala kojega ovdje uistinu ima u izobilju. Osim πto su daske odlazile na sve strane, Gorani su ih prije svega rabili za sebe. Jedan od najzanimljivijih proizvoda jest πindra − ruËno cijepane drvene daπËice kojima su pokrivali krovove i zidove, izraene od naboljeg drveta. I dandanas ta graevinska tradicija æivi, a dovoljno se provozati izvan glavnih cesta. Begovo Razdolje jest najviπe naselje u Hrvatskoj, podignuto na 1078 metara nad morem. Fuæine na zapadnom kraju Gorskog kotara priljubljene su na lijepo jezero, u okruæju πume na brdima, a samo pola sata od mora. Crni je lug na vratima nacionalnog parka Risnjak, velikog podruËja divljine. U ovom carstvu πume i kamena ljudi su naπli malo zemlje za obraivanje, tek koje krπko polje ili doline malih strmina dovoljne tek za vrt ili pokoje polje kukuruza. Zato su se okrenuli onome Ëega ima u izobilju − drvu i æivotinjama. Gorski kotar πumarsko je srediπte Hrvatske, a kroz naizgled neprohodne πume prokrËene su mnoge bijele πumske ceste. Zvuk motornih pila danas je zamijenio one ruËne, a suvremeni kamioni s automatiziranim utovarivaËima istisnuli su konjske zaprege koje su s mukom teglile joπ mirisne trupce. No, iako slika zvuËi destruktivno, πumari u Gorskom kotaru Ëine to pametno i odræivo. ©umari izdvajaju i pile samo odabrana stabla na nekoj povrπini, a veÊina πume opstaje. Takvo preborno gospodarenje zasniva se na jeli, a Ëuva sve ekoloπke funkcije πume. Dok su u europskim πumama nestale prirodne zajednice i saena smreka, ovdje su one u gotovo prirodnom stanju. Ujedno se spreËava pogubna erozija i bujice u planinama. Druga znaËajna aktivnost joπ je i danas lov. UnatoË velikoj i dugotrajnoj tradiciji, ovdje je najveÊa populacija velikih zvijeri (medvjeda, vuka i risa), πto znaËi da je lov odræiv i dobro organiziran. Valja znati i da odstrjel medvjeda lokalnoj zajednici pruæa odreenu ﬁnancijsku dobit, πto je svojevrsna kompenzacija za suæivot s medvjedom, koji ipak ima svoje zahtjeve, od ispravnog odstranjivanja smeÊa, ograivanja vrtova, koπnica do zaπtite stoke i suπenog mesa.

Ipak, uz te osnovne grane sve se viπe πiri turizam − onaj sportski i pustolovni. Valja uskoËiti u gumene Ëamce za rafting i poskakivati na divljoj Kupi ili brdskim biciklom krstariti po cestama kroz πume i livade, spustiti se niz brdo na skijama ili sanjkama. Onima mirnijeg duha idealna su mnoga izletiπta za obitelji, poput πume Golubinjak. Potkraj dana valja opuπteno u restoranu uæivati u gastronomskim poslasticama ovog kraja, prije svega u lovaËkim delicijama. U Lokvama je tradicija skupljanja æaba za jelo pretvorena u mali pokret za oËuvanje tih vodozemaca pa je podignut Muzej æaba, gdje se mogu saznati mnoge tajne tih πumskih stvorenja. I stoga i u ljetnim vruÊim danima isplati se odmoriti od æarkih plaæa i potraæiti osvjeæenje u mirisnim πumama, dolinama i kanjonima Gorskog kotara − zelenog srca Hrvatske. .

orski Kotar is Croatia’s mountainous region, which rises slowly from the lowlands of Central Croatia. Its northern part borders the Slovenian mountains, but it is also separated from Slovenia by the green Kupa and the »abranka River valleys. Its slopes, above sunny Kvarner Bay, gentle in places and steep in others, command breathtaking views of the sea; in the south, the hills of Gorski Kotar descend gently down to the mildly-undulating plateau of Lika. In Gorski Kotar, nature thrives and flourishes at every step, unlike the harsh and parsimonious karst of Lika or the littoral where dry rocky terrain reigns supreme. The wind-driven maritime air creeps up the mountain getting colder and colder the higher it gets. As a result, heavy clouds cause a lot of rain to fall, while winters abound in snow. Not surprisingly, this is the wettest area in all of Croatia. At higher altitudes, heavy lead-coloured clouds dispense over 3,000 mm of rain and snow over the area. A gray sky is not uncommon; even on a sunny day, fog often lingers over the valley for the entire morning. Winters are long and merciless, and the gentle white slopes remain dormant under a thick layer of snow for several months. While the first sun seekers already sunbathe on Opatija’s beaches, snow still glistens on the northern slopes and in the sinkholes of Gorski Kotar. Over time, people have constructed settlements and roads, but the forest is still the true ruler of Gorski Kotar. Forested areas stretch from the boundaries of inhabited valleys almost to the very hilltops. Beech coexists here with Queen of the Forest − the fir whose tall trees rise high up towards the sky. The fragrances of coniferous forests and fresh mountain air fill the lungs with a sense of wilderness while the

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wind roars, playing an ancient game through the thick needles of the treetops. These forests grow on entirely karstic ground, which is prevalent in southern Croatia, and due to the abundance of humidity in the area, these forests are thriving. Trees grow out of the bare stone, on steep slopes and in sinkholes − deep cavities so typical of the karst ground. These forests abound in a variety of plants, enhanced by the Dinaric and Alpine varieties. We see the exquisite fluffy Edelweiss flowers on the rocks, growing against a background of breathtaking scenery and views. Forest glades, featuring an occasional young tree, emerge from the forests. In spring, these forest meadows explode in a rhapsody of colourful spring flowers, only to come ablaze in summer, when orchids are in full bloom. There was a time when these meadows were maintained naturally, through grazing. With the disappearance of traditional livestock/cattle, they are gradually returning to the embrace of the forest, much to the detriment of biodiversity. Only at the highest levels, cold and wind manage to keep the forest at bay from the meadows, but at a high cost of constant and cruel exposure to the atmospheric elements. The highest such peak is Veliki Risnjak, whose stony top rises like a roof and commands a

view not only of the sea, only 15 kilometres away, but also of the somewhat more distant Alps. Bitoraj and Snjeænik are similarly bare, but most of the mountaintops in Gorski Kotar are green and leafy. However, rocks reign supreme in a very particular place and in a remarkable way. Slender and glistening in the sun, the White and the Samarian Cliffs tower above the forests like the fortresses of a long forgotten fairy castle. Their understory is an inaccessible jungle, which hides a cemetery of fallen trees and where spruce crawl up from the bare rock. The well-marked mountain trails skilfully avoid these rocks as well as many other hilltops and interesting nooks and crannies around Gorski Kotar. Trekking is a popular pastime. Mountain lodges, huts and shelters allow longer stays. Owing to them, generations of nature lovers have been able to enjoy not only the fresh air, but also the unspoiled peace and tranquillity of the area while paying respect to the mountain itself. In late afternoon and evening, when trekkers light ﬁres in their shelters, peace and quiet descend upon the mountain. Having ascertained for herself that the forest is again a safe place to be, a mother bear takes her cubs out on a food hunt. Although carefree and playful, the cubs will stop what they are doing as soon as

Tornjevi Bijelih stijena The peaks of the White Cliffs

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KamaËnik u dubokom kanjonu KamaËnik in a deep canyon

Daædevnjak A salamander local to the area

Parenje puæeva The pairing of two slugs

they hear their mother’s warning signal. The lynx, having spent the whole afternoon resting on a sundrenched rock, returns to the prey it killed the previous night. Every evening, after such a feast, it covers the prey with leaves and grass to protect it from vultures. An adult lynx can feed like that for seven days before it has to go out to hunt again. Gorski Kotar is a kingdom of wild game, including the bear, the lynx and the wolf, a rarity in itself on the Old Continent, from which the trio has long been expelled. In the evening, deer come out to the mountain ridge where their silhouettes are easily-recognizable in the sunset. They always stay alert to the howling of the wolves and herds of wild horses. Mountain trails descend into the steep canyons of rivulets and brooks. The source of the Zeleni vir is a little cave below Skrad. After a few cascades and little lakes, it becomes the wild Curak brook, which jumps over rapids through a lavish setting of trees covered in ferns and moss. Not far from its source, is a spectacular 70 metre-high waterfall, which cascades over a huge rock with a large cave at its base. Another wonder of nature on the other side is Vraæji prolaz (Devil’s Passage), a place where water bubbles up, foams and splatters while making its way through an extremely narrow and steep canyon carved into the bare rocks. Luckily enough, hardworking locals have literally constructed a trail through the canyon, which has allowed us to take a peek into the most intimate depths of the canyon, and reach yet another cave − Muæeva Hiæica. The well-appointed excursion site KamaËnik, near a somewhat bigger Vrbovsko, is a short but very attractive tributary of the Dobra River with rapids and water cascades. Gorski Kotar is also the origin of the Kupa River, whose source is a mesmerizingly beautiful little lake. To get to the surface, the water has to spring from a depth of over 100 metres. During the ﬁrst few kilometres of its ﬂow, it rushes and bounces across many rocks and rapids, and then enters a spacious and deep valley, which forms the state border between Slovenia and Croatia. Charming towns and villages are nestled comfortably amidst all that nature, in valleys and glades, most commonly along the roads. The traditional building materials are stone and timber, both abundant in Gorski Kotar. Besides shipping timber to the different corners of the world, the locals primarily use it for their own purposes. One of the most interesting products is shingle; its thin, tapered pieces, cut from the best bolts of wood, are used to cover roofs and walls. The tradition still lives on as may be seen by those who decide to leave the main roads. At an altitude of 1,078

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metres above sea level, Begovo Razdolje is the highest settlement in Croatia. Fuæine, in the west of Gorski Kotar, is nestled against a lovely lake surrounded by a mountain forest, only half an hour away from the sea. Crni lug is at the entrance to the Risnjak National Park, a huge wild territory. People found little arable land in this kingdom of forest and rocks; a sinkhole or an odd gentle slope here and there was barely enough for a garden or a corn ﬁeld. So, they turned to what they had in abundance − timber and animals. Gorski Kotar is the centre of the forestry industry in Croatia. Apparently, impassable forests have been cleared to make room for many a white forest road. The sound of hand saws has been replaced by the sound of mechanical saws, while modern trucks with automatic loading systems have pushed out carts and horses that used to strain under their loads of freshly-cut logs. However destructive the image may appear, in Gorski Kotar, forests have been managed in a clever and sustainable way, long before sustainability became a buzzword and before its widespread use started reﬂecting the sad reality of the modern world. Forest managers choose and fell only selected trees in a certain area, while preserving most of the forest. The thinning harvest, as it is called, is

Gorski kotar − spoj Ëovjeka i divljine Gorski Kotar − bridging man and nature

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based on fir trees, and seeks to protect all the environmental functions of the forest. While natural communities have disappeared from European forests and have been replaced by cultivated spruces, here they continue to exist in their nearly natural state. They serve to prevent perilous land erosion and forest torrents. Hunting is the other important activity. Despite a long and substantial hunting tradition, the area boasts the largest population of big game (bear, wolf and lynx), which means that hunting is sustainable and well-organized. It should be noted that the local community benefits from every bear killed and that the monies thus earned are used to compensate the locals for the price of co-habitation with the wild animal in the form of proper waste management, the maintenance of garden fences and beehives, as well as the protection of domestic livestock and dry cured meats. The revenue from these staple industries is, nowadays, increasingly boosted by sports and adventure tourism. Hopping into an inflatable boat and bouncing up and down on the wild Kupa; cruising the forests and meadows on a mountain bike; or sliding down a slope on skis or sleds is what the area offers to adventure lovers. If an adrenaline rush is not your thing, there are many family-oriented excursion sites like Golubinjak Forest. At the end of a day, you can enjoy a relaxing meal of local specialties, particularly game. In Lokve, harvesting frogs for frog-based specialties has been transformed into a proper little movement for the protection of these amphibians. The Frog Museum is where you can learn a lot about these forest creatures. Therefore, during the scorching days of summer, it pays to seek respite from the crowded beaches and find refreshment in the fragrant forests, valleys and canyons of Gorski Kotar W − the green heart of Croatia!

Samarske stijene The Samarian Cliffs

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Croatia

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turistiÄ?ka zajednica kvarnera the kvarner county tourism office 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2 t +385 (0)51 623 333, 272 988 e kvarner@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr

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Gorski kotar doživljaj koji trebaš Discover Gorski kotar

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Ivo Pervan

NAUTI»KI TURIZAM NAUTICAL TOURISM

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DA, ŽIVOT JE ZAISTA LIJEP YES, LIFE IS REALLY BEAUTIFUL

Piše/By Dubravka Belas

Svijest o beskonaËnosti, neopisiv mir, uæitak samoÊe i barem privid slobode motiv su i nagrada svakome nauti. Treba li reÊi, osobito onome koji se sretne s ljepotom hrvatske obale i mora kojim je Hrvatska tako blagoslovljena. MagiËna je brojka 1244. Toliko je, naime, na hrvatskoj strani Jadrana izbrojeno otoka, otoËiÊa i hridi, uglavnom ravnomjerno rasporeenih duæ obalne crte ukupno duge neπto manje od πest tisuÊa kilometara. This awareness of inﬁnity, an unspeakable peace, the joy of solitude and freedom (at least perceived if not real) is the motive and reward for every sailor, particularly those who are familiar with the beauty of the Croatian coastline and sea Croatia is so blessed with. The magical number is 1244. This is how many islands, islets and rocks there are on the Croatian side of the Adriatic. They are more or less evenly-distributed along the coastline, which stretches out to just under 6000 kilometres. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ivo Pervan

ako u taj beskraj moja mis’o tone, I brodolom mi je sladak u moru tom… pjevao je, nadahnut Ëeænjom, sehnsuchtom i saudadeom istodobno, Giacomo Leopardi, njeæni pjesnik koji nije stigao ostarjeti. Ta svijest o beskonaËnosti, neopisiv mir, uæitak samoÊe i barem privid slobode motiv su i nagrada svakome nauti. Treba li reÊi, osobito onome koji se sretne s ljepotom hrvatske obale. More, beskrajna voda roenja, vjerna slika æivljenja i umiranja. More-majka, more-izvor i more-utok, more umilno i prijeteÊe, plodno i smrtonosno. MoÊno more. More kojim je Hrvatska tako blagoslovljena. MagiËna je brojka 1244. Toliko je, naime, na hrvatskoj strani Jadrana izbrojeno otoka, otoËiÊa i hridi, uglavnom ravnomjerno rasporeenih duæ obalne crte ukupno duge neπto manje od πest tisuÊa kilometara. Svi ti veliki i mali otoci, nastanjeni i bez stanovnika, kameni ili pjeπËani, goli i pusti ili plodni i tamni od borova koji ih obrastaju, nautiËki su raj, reÊi Êe vam svatko tko je ikada tuda plovio. Kristalni tirkiz toploga mora usred Europe, ondje gdje Mediteran najdublje prodire u kontinent, udaljen je najviπe dva sata leta od bilo kojega europskog odredišta ili nekoliko sati voænje dobrim cestama. I zraËne su luke na toj obali pravilno rasporeene, pa ne trebate ni imati vlastitu brodicu da biste uæivali u plovidbi. Dovoljno je sletjeti na pulski, rijeËki, splitski ili dubrovaËki aerodrom i ondje, u nekoj od brojnih agencija koje se bave Ëarterom, unajmiti barku vaπih snova. Isto tako, mnogi su vlasnici jahti i jedrilica odluËili svoje brodice povjeriti brizi osoblja Ëak 56 prirodno zaπtiÊenih i strateπki sagraenih marina u najljepπim mjestima na obali, sa 16.000 vezova u moru i 8500 suhih vezova. Jedinstven na Mediteranu meu svim tim marinama lanac je od 22 ACI marine, ujednaËene, visoke kvalitete usluge, sadræaja, opremljenosti, pa Ëak i arhitekture, takoer pravilno rasporeenih na ponajboljim mjestima duæ obale. Uz osnovnu − prihvat nautiËara, nude i bogatu i raznoliku charter uslugu te brojne aktivnosti na vodi, poput ronjenja ili daskanja. Nije stoga neobiËno da je na Boot sajmu u Düsseldorfu Hrvatska spomenuta kao top nautiËko charter odredište u Europi. Uz njih, izduæena hrvatska obala nudi joπ tisuÊu i petsto zaljeva i usamljenih uvalica za sidrenje, odmor ili tek kratak zaklon, te joπ tridesetak tisuÊa vezova u luËicama i lukama. Moæete se pridruæiti i krstarenjima u asketskim kabinama nekoga od jedrenjaka oldtimera, lijepih drvenih πkuna starih stotinjak godina, koje su svoje slavnije dane odraivale prevozeÊi zaËine i voÊe iz Afrike, a danas su preureene za kraÊa krstarenja izmeu otoka. Svaka je plovidba, potvrdit Êe to nautiËari, CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ivo Pervan

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Ivo Pervan Ivo Pervan

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pustolovina i opuπtanje, stalno uËenje, ponekad i strah, uvijek izazov. One su susret s elementima u njihovu najËiπÊem obliku, tu su zrak i vjetar, voda i valovi, tu je sunce, miris joda, slane kapljice na licu. I izmeu svih tih silnih otoka, barke su i same maleni otoci, ono jedno posebno mjesto na svijetu gdje je sve po mom… gdje nikome ne treba sat, niti kome smeta izblijedjela majica ili kosa puna soli. Plovidba poduËava oprezu i strpljenju i donosi uvijek novo iskustvo, a more je moæda ono najbliæe prirodi πto si moderan Ëovjek danas moæe priuπtiti. Da je ploviti vaænije od æivota, i da plovidba katkad æivot i omoguÊuje, poduËava nas Plutarhova priËa o Gneju Pompeju, ambicioznome rimskome ratniku koji je, prije nego što je zara-

tio sa samim Cezarom, jednom otiπao po æito na Siciliju. Kad se prije povratka podigla oluja, mornari nisu htjeli isploviti. Ali Pompej se prvi popeo na brod s povikom: Navigare necesse est, vivere non est necesse. To da treba ploviti, a æivjeti baπ i ne, postalo je s vremenom geslom svih mornara, onih profesionalnih, koji doista plove da bi mogli æivjeti, ali i onih koji odvoje tek poneki ljetni mjesec ili samo nekoliko dana potkraj tjedna i otpute se πirokom puËinom ili se pak ograniËe na obilazak notornih kulturnih, povijesnih pa i gastronomskih poπti po otocima i na kopnu. A kamo god plovili istoËnom obalom Jadrana, uvijek je to pomorskim putovima koji postoje joπ od antike, starih Grka i Rimljana. O tim davnim vezama Jadrana s ostatkom Mediterana, svjedoËe mnoga nalaziπta od zapadne Istre i Pule, preko mitske Herakleje i uπÊa Neretve, do Visa, Hvara, KorËule, Mljeta. Pomorske je putove poslije nadzirao Bizant, od srednjeg vijeka Venecija, a plavim su cestama kratko gospodarili i Turci, Austrijanci, Francuzi, Ëak i Englezi koji su se otokom Visom koristili kao gusarskom i krijumËarskom bazom, i u vrijeme francuske blokade odatle trgovali kolonijalnim i britanskim proizvodima. Nije neobiËno da je Hrvatska, s tako razvedenom i dugom obalom, jedina slavenska pomorska zemlja. Oduvijek je u povijesti zemlje pomorstvo zauzimalo vaæno mjesto. Da je tako bilo i u novijoj povijesti, govori podatak da je u austrougarskoj ratnoj mornarici sa sjediπtem u Puli, sve do raspada nesretnoga carstva, sluæilo 33.000 hrvatskih mornara. I danas se gotovo 30.000 hrvatskih pomoraca na svjetskom træiπtu bori za svoj komad kruha sa sedam kora, a polovica toga broja πkolovani su Ëasnici. U 9. se stoljeÊu, toËnije 18. rujna 887. godine pred Makarskom odvijala pomorska bitka u kojoj su hrvatski mornari porazili MleËane. Nakon bitke u kojoj je stradao i duæd, moÊni su Venecijanci sljedeÊih stotinu godina plaÊali danak za slobodnu plovidbu tim podruËjem. Taj se dan slavi kao Dan Hrvatske ratne mornarice. I inaËe su, nikad pobijeeni, senjski i kliπki uskoci i neretvanski gusari kontrolirali promet u priobalnim vodama pa i onda kad su njima formalno gospodarili drugi. Hrvatska je, takoer, duæ cijele obale − od Pule, Rijeke, preko Splita i Trogira, sve do Dubrovnika, zemlja brodograditelja izraslih na naslijeu najboljih starovjekovnih brodograevnih dostignuÊa. Dubrovnik je, na primjer, u 16. stoljeÊu imao treÊu najjaËu pomorsku ﬂotu na svijetu, sa 170 brodova, koka, galijuna i karaka raπtrkanih po svim europskim morima. Nije stoga neobiËno što i kip sv. Vlahe, zaπtitnika Dubrovnika, iz toga doba dræi u ruci model Grada s prikazom brodovlja u luci. Karake bijahu veliki dubrovaËki trgovaËki jedrenjaci,

Englezi su ih nazvali argosy prema iskrivljenom imenu Ragusae (Dubrovnik) pa ih i Shakespeare spominje u UkroÊenoj goropadnici. DubrovaËki karakuni u 16. stoljeÊu bijahu najveÊi trgovaËki brodovi na svijetu, kao i njihove nave u drugoj polovici 18. stoljeÊa. Brodograditelji Dubrovnika, Ëije su naslijee padom Republike preuzeli peljeπki kalafati, nadaleko su bili poznati po umijeÊu i kvaliteti svog rada pa su brodovi s njihovih navoza, pusti brikovi i patake i pulake bili ljepπi od ostalih i duæe su plovili. I tako, naπli ste se, sami ili sa svojim druπtvom ili posadom ili vodiËem na brodu usred toga nahvaljenog mora − ljeti toplog i do 27 stupnjeva. Morske mijene na Jadranu gotovo da i nisu izraæene i ne trebate Ëekati plimu da biste isplovili. A kad isplovite, teπko Êete se odluËiti je li ljepπi onaj trenutak u zoru kad su nebo i more gotovo jedno na sivom i ruæiËastom obzoru ili su vam draæe sve nijanse tirkiza koje se izmjenjuju danju. Ili ti jedinstveni, vatreni zalasci sunca kad se crveni odsjaji razliju puËinom pa se Ëini da se i more zapalilo. Hrvatsko je more savrπene prozirnosti − ponekad prozirno do vrtoglavih 55 metara dubine. Idealne je slanosti, a veÊ su Kennedy i Gore u svojim govorima slikovito spominjali sklad sastava mora i onog ljudske krvi, znoja i suza, a povratak moru usporeivali s − povratkom kuÊi. More sad miriπe poput tek rastvorene lubenice, svjeæe i slatko, mijeπajuÊi se s dahom obale, Ëempresa, lovora i smilja… Sunce je visoko gore, u zenitu, povoljni maestral buËno navaljuje na smotana jedra, poput podsjetnika. ©to drugo nego razapeti ih, isploviti i, ispraÊeni neumornim pjevom cvrËaka, krenuti u obilazak najljepπe obale na svijetu. No oprez: vjetrovi su jedna od najvaænijih stvari za plovidbu i poput vatre dobri su sluge, a loπi gospodari. Katkad mogu uËiniti da ovo inaËe pitomo more podivlja pa je uputno poπtivati ih. Bura i jugo najpoznatija su dva jadranska vjetra. Nepredvidiva bura udara na refule, podiæe morsku praπinu tako da se Ëini da je more uskipjelo. Hladna je i suha i, osim u rijetkim sluËajevima kad se usput napuni kiπom i oblacima pa je nazivaju πkurom burom, donosi sunËano i svjeæe vrijeme. Kad nije prejaka, stanovnici uz obalu vole je i smatraju ozdravljujuÊim vjetrom. NajjaËa bura puπe u Velebitskom kanalu, osobito oko Senja, strmoglavljuje se ondje niz visoke kamene litice, kao da æeli otpuhati otoke koje je veÊ odavno ogolila svojom snagom, tako da obale Paga i Raba okrenute kopnu sliËe pustome MjeseËevom krajoliku. Bura Êe noÊu divljati, a danju se smirivati, sve do podneva kada kaæu da je otiπla na ruËak… Najgore je kod bure to πto se moæe podiÊi naglo i zagorËiti mnogu plovidbu. Jugo, koji joπ zovu i πilokom, dolazi u druπtvu s oblacima, niskim i bremenitim kiπom. Na juænome CROATIA AIRLINES

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Mario JelaviÊ

Zlatko Sunko

je Jadranu Ëesto olujno i podiæe duge i pravilne valove koji glasno kotrljaju æala, oblikuju lijepe bijele plaæe, uzimajuÊi viπe, vraÊajuÊi manje. Neugodan je katkad i lebiÊ ili garbin, jugozapadni vjetar koji, osobito zimi, naraste do olujne jaËine i uskomeπa valove, potpuno ih iskriæa, pa oni onda razbijaju obalu, lome griæe i mostove, ljudskom rukom sagraene strukture. Levant iz istoËnoga smjera ovdje je umjeren vjetar, kao i sjeverozapadni maestral koji Êe u vrele dane, uz tramontanu, biti dobrodoπlo osvjeæenje i lijepo puniti jedra. Svi Êe dobri i odgovorni pomorci paæljivo online pratiti vremenske izvjeπtaje i prognozu meteoroloπkog zavoda ili posluπati kad se triput dnevno aæurirani podaci emitiraju preko lokalnih radija i luËkih kapetanija. Napokon, kreÊete u plovidbu s najzapadnije hrvatske kopnene toËke, Savudrije, ubavoga ribarskoga mjesta koje Êe vam otvoriti vrata Istre, jedinstvenog poluotoka, terrae magicae koja kao da je uzela sve najbolje i od kopna i od mora. Ako vas ne zanimaju mala ribarska mjesta, pogledajte bar neobiËan naËin na koji ondje Ëuvaju svoje barke − ne izvlaËeÊi ih na suho za nevremena, nego ih podiæuÊi iznad valova na drvene konstrukcije zvane grue… Nastavite li dalje, tu su pjeπËane plaæe teniske meke Umaga, pa Novigrad, PoreË, Vrsar, Rovinj, Pula, nanizani na obali Istre kao biseri u ogrlici. Tu je i 14 otoËiÊa Brijuna, jednoga od tri otoËka, uz Kornate i Mljet, nacionalna parka. Zbog klime, ﬂore i faune odavno su proglaπeni rajem na zemlji. Pula sa starorimskim amﬁteatrom, uz Dioklecijanovu palaËu u Splitu, najveÊim i najoËuvanijim spomenikom iz toga doba na podruËju Hrvatske… Dalje niz obalu nanizane su raskoπne vile Lovrana i Opatije, otmjene Stare dame u kojoj je povijesno poËeo hrvatski turizam. Nastavljaju se kvarnerski otoci Cres, Krk, Rab, Loπinj, Pag i Susak, svaki posve razliËit od drugoga, kao πto su to i mala nasuprotna mjesta podno visokoga, nazubljenog Velebita na kopnu. Zatim Kornati, grupa od 150 nenastanjenih otoka i otoËiÊa razvuËenih od Zadra do ©ibenika, prelijepih kamenih gradova-spomenika. Zamislite koliko je tek na Kornatima usamljenih i tihih uvala samo za vas, za koje ne treba traæiti rezervaciju ili ih skupo platiti… Poslije Primoπtena, grada-poluotoka i Skradina, duboko uvuËenoga u kopno te malog izleta na bajkovite slapove Krke, stiæemo do Trogira, okamenjenog arhitektonskog dragulja sa zaπtiÊenom lukom zbog koje je osobito privlaËan za nautiËare. Poslije Splita, jedinoga grada Ëija je veliËanstvena antiËka jezgra mjesto nepatvorenoga svakodnevnog æivota, jedina nastanjena starorimska palaËa na svijetu, slijede otoci Hvar, BraË, KorËula, s Ëudesnim

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Brz, jednostavan i siguran prijenos novca

Od sada na 800 prodajnih mjesta Tiska diljem Hrvatske Zuverlässiger und schneller Geldempfang – jetzt an 800 Tisak-Kiosken in ganz Kroatien!

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ili πkarpinama u bijelome vinu, πurlicama s umakom od creske i krËke janjetine, oradama iz peÊnice, crnim riæotima, riæotima od rakovica i morskih jaja, buzarama od hlapova i brbavica, slasnim hobotnicama, teletini pod pekom, præenim jadranskim lignjama, hvarskim gregadama s poznate Palmiæane. Pa onda artiËoki s bobom po domaÊu, punjeni sitnim graπkom, soËni gofovi, ugori s palentom, slanuci i paπtafaæoli, ribe i povrÊe na leπo, kozletina s gradela, pjesniËki Senkovi brudeti iz kuÊe u viπkoj Maloj Trovni gdje Êete i sami, uz razgovor o knjigama, moÊi pomoÊi u spravljanju jela. Slani inÊuni i srdele s kaparima ubranima iza kuÊe i motarima iz procijepa stijena zapljuskivanih morskom pjenom, stonske muπule i kamenice, pa riblje mlijeko, pa lopudske popare, pa srdele s gradela, da jednostavnije i slae ne mogu biti… ili tek malo kozjega ili nadaleko veÊ poznatoga paπkog ovËjeg sira, s maslinama i prπutom, pokoja roæata s pravim likerom od ruæa za kraj, a sve zalijevano boæanskim nektarima, od istarskih malvazija, vrbniËkih ælahtina, primoštenskog babiÊa, viπkih vugava, hvarskih i korËulanskih plavaca, peljeπkih dingaËa… kako bi se uopÊe to sve moglo doËarati rijeËima, a ne kušati… I nevaæno je na kraju jeste li brod privezali na samoj rivi nekoga turistiËkog zvjezdanog odredišta, na korak od preplanulih, za veËeru dotjeranih πetaËa, uliËnih prodavaËa, crtaËa i sviraËa, ili ste bacili sidro neπto dalje, gdje nema drugoga svjetla osim mjeseËeva i sjaja barem trostruko viπe zvijezda nego ondje gdje inaËe æivite…Leæite na pramcu poput pulene, more je mirisno i tamno i mirno. S obale, s neke ljetne terase razlijeva se udaljena glazba, naziru se odsjaji gradova uz rub vode. Dok more jedva Ëujno, sitnim poljupcima oblizuje bokove vaπe barke, znat Êete, barem veËeras − barem sada i ovdje: da, æivot je doista lijep. .

Ivo Pervan

gradovima i satelitskim arhipelazima, poput Paklinskih otoka u blizini Hvara. Tu su i spektakularne plaæe poput braËkoga Zlatnog rata, πljunËanog jezika isturenog u more, koji vjetar danomice oblikuje i uvijek mu iznova pomiËe vrπak, ili korËulanske pjeπËane Vele Præine. Zatim udaljeni Vis osobite proπlosti, Biπevo s Modrom πpiljom, Lastovo, vulkanska puËinska Jabuka, Ëudesni otok svjetionik − Palagruæa. Joπ jedan nacionalni parkvi, otok Mljet, gusto je pokriven πumom, oËuvane, gotovo nedirnute prirode, sa dva slana jezera i najboljim prirodnim sidriπtem na Jadranu − PolaËama. Na Mljetu je i antiËka palaËa − treÊi po veliËini starorimski spomenik na Jadranu. I tu smo veÊ nadomak krunskome dragulju Dubrovniku, povijesnoj republici, gradu-dræavi, Ëije oËuvane zidine, sjajne palaËe, crkve i samostani svjedoËe o njegovoj nekadaπnjoj veliËini, moÊi, ureenosti i slobodi. Dakako, naπa priËa tu ne zavrπava; toliko je mjesta koja nismo spomenuli ni uspjeli doËarati njihovu draæest, sve mirise i boje, od srebrnih maslina, zlatne i plave tinte groæda, sitnih æutih smokava iz Ëijih se mekih utroba cijedi najslai nektar, svjeæih boja i okusa naranËi, limuna i mandarina, slatke trpkosti narova i maginja… Nismo niπta stigli reÊi o nebrojenim spomenicima kulture u gradovima na vaπoj ruti, ni o labirintima æivopisnih kamenih uliËica Ëiji su ploËnici, poput dubrovaËkog Straduna, izglaËani viπestoljetnim koracima, niπta o jedrima mirisnoga rublja koje, visoko nad vaπim glavama, povezuje dvije strane uskih ulica i kala. Nismo govorili niπta o uæicima gustoze ite, hedonistiËke gastronomske rute koja Êe vam otkriti ﬁnoÊu svih okusa hrvatskog Jadrana, od istarskih tartufa, slatkoga i Ëvrstog mesa kvarnerskih πkampi, najboljih kad su pripremljeni na æaru, na najjednostavniji naËin, zaËinjeni samo s malo dima. Niπta nismo rekli ni o kovaËima

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Ivo Pervan

o in this immensity my thinking drowns: And to shipwreck is sweet for me in this sea ... Inspired at the same time by longing − sehnsucht, and saudade, thus sang Giacomo Leopardi, the gentle poet who did not live long enough to get old. This awareness of infinity, an unspeakable peace, the joy of solitude and freedom (at least perceived if not real) is the motive and reward for every sailor, particularly those who are familiar with the beauty of the Croatian coastline. The sea - the fathomless water of birth and dying. The sea − mother, the sea − source and the sea − confluence; the sea caressing and threatening, fecund and deadly. A mighty sea. A sea Croatia is so blessed with. The magical number is 1244. This is how many islands, islets and rocks there are on the Croatian side of the Adriatic. They are more or less evenly-distributed along the coastline, which stretches out to just under 6000 kilometres. All these big and small islands, inhabited or uninhabited, rocky or sandy, bare and desolate or fertile and covered with dark pines, make up the nautical paradise, which is Croatia. Everybody who has ever sailed here will tell you that. The crystal turquoise colour of the warm sea in the middle of Europe, at the place where the Mediterranean cuts deepest into the continent, is a short two-hour flight or just a few hours’ drive by car on good roads from any European destination. Airports are wellspaced even along the coastline, so you do not have to have your own boat to enjoy a sailing holiday. All you need to do is land at the Pula, Rijeka, Split or Dubrovnik airport, go to any of the boat charter agencies there, and choose the vessel of your dreams. On the other hand, many boat and sailboat owners have decided to entrust the care of their vessels to the staff of as many as 56 marinas, wellprotected and strategically-constructed in the most beautiful places on the coast, with as many as 16,000 berths and 8,500 dry docks. The ACI chain, comprising 22 marines, is unique in the Mediterranean. The marinas are evenly-situated at the best locations along the coast and offer consistent high-quality services, facilities, equipment and even have common architectural features. In addition to their core service of accepting nautical tourists, they offer a wide variety of charter services and many water activities, such as scuba diving and surfing. Hence, it is not a surprise that at the Boot Düsseldorf trade fair, Croatia was recognised as one of the top nautical charter destinations in Europe. Moreover, the elongated Croatian littoral offers another 1,500 little bays and coves

where you can throw anchor in order to rest or find shelter, and on top of that, some thirty thousand berths in jetties and piers. You can also book an austere cabin on one of the numerous old-timer sailboats - beautiful hundred year old schooners, which used to transport spices and fruit from Africa in their heyday, and where nowadays, they have been redesigned and adapted for shorter islandhopping tours. Mariners will all agree that every sail is both an adventure and an opportunity to relax; it is a learning exercise; sometimes a source of fear, but always a challenge. To sail means to come across elements in their purest form: the air and the wind, the water and the waves; there is the sun, the smell of iodine, and the salty drops of water on one’s face. Among all these islands, boats, too, are small islands, those special places in the world where everything is the way you want it… and where nobody needs a watch, or is bothered by a faded and worn-out t-shirt or hair full of salt. Sailing teaches you caution and patience; every sail brings a new experience, while the sea is perhaps the closest to nature a modern man can afford to get. To sail is more important than life, and sometimes to sail is to live, as we learn from Plutarch’s story about the ambitious Roman warrior, Gnaeus Pompeius. Before going to war with Cesar himself, he went to Sicily on a mission to collect grain. As he was about to head home, there was a violent storm at sea and his crew was hesitant to set sail. But Pompeius was first to climb aboard, crying out: Navigare necesse est, vivere non est necesse. This means, it is necessary to sail, but not to live, and in time, this has become the motto of all sea-farers, both for professionals, who sail to earn a livelihood, and for those who can only spare a month or two in the summer, or just a few weekends to take to the open seas or to follow the trail of famous cultural, historical and gastronomic sites on the islands and along the coast. Wherever you sail along the eastern Adriatic Coast, you will find yourself on one of the maritime routes that have existed since the time of Antiquity, of the ancient Greeks and Romans. Many archaeological sites bear witness to the ancient ties that existed between the Adriatic and the rest of the Mediterranean Basin; from Pula in western Istria, across mythical Heraclea and the Neretva Delta, to the islands of Vis, Hvar, KorËula and Mljet. The maritime routes were later controlled by Byzantium, and then Venice, as of the Middle Ages. For a short time, their masters were the

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Mario RomuliÊ i Dražen StojËiÊ Ivo Pervan

Turks, the Austrians, the French, and even the English, who used the island of Vis as their pirating and smuggling stronghold from which they peddled colonial and British wares during the French blockade. With such an indented and long coastline, it is not unusual that Croatia is the only Slavic maritime state. Seafaring has been an important activity throughout the country’s history. An example from the recent past is the Austro-Hungarian navy, which was headquartered in Pula until the ultimate demise of the unfortunate empire, and which was comprised of as many as 33,000 Croatian sailors. Even today, nearly 30,000 Croatian seamen, half of which are trained officers, are competing for their share of bread with seven crusts on the global market. In the 9th century, on September 18th, 887, to be more precise, Croatian seamen defeated the Venetians in a naval battle that took place off the coast of Makarska. As a consequence in the aftermath of the battle, which had claimed the life of the duke himself, the mighty Venetians continued to pay tribute money in order to sail freely through the area for the next hundred years. The day is still celebrated as Croatian Navy Day. The undefeated pirates of Senj, Klis and the Neretva Valley controlled the traffic along the shore, even at times when they were governed by others. Croatia is also a land of shipbuilders. Shipbuilding yards exist along the entire coast, from Pula and Rijeka, across Split and Trogir, all the way down to Dubrovnik, and their shipbuilding tradition is based on the legacy of the greatest medieval shipbuilding achievements. In the 16th century, for example, Dubrovnik had the most powerful naval fleet in the world. Its 170 boats of various shapes and sizes sailed across all European seas. Not surprisingly, the effigy of St. Blaize, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, is depicted with a model of the city in his hand and ships in its harbour. Karaka was a large sailboat typical of Dubrovnik. The English version of the name is argosy, based on the mispronunciation of the name Ragusae (Dubrovnik). Shakespeare himself refers to karakas in his play, The Taming of the Shrew. In the 16th century, the karakuns, or argosy vessels of Dubrovnik, were the biggest merchant ships in the world, just like the nava of Dubrovnik in the second half of the 18th century. Dubrovnik’s shipbuilders, who were succeeded by the shipbuilders of Peljeπac after the demise of the Dubrovnik Republic, were known far and wide for the skill and quality of their work. Vessels from their slipways were more beautiful and sailed longer than others. CROATIA AIRLINES

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ALL SENSES JAZZ FESTIVAL

ADVENT IN SPLIT

International Sailing Race

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Ivo Pervan Mario RomuliÊ i Dražen StojËiÊ

Ivo Pervan

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fresh weather. When it is not too strong, the locals love it and see it as the wind that brings good health. Bura gusts are the strongest in the Velebit channel, especially around Senj; the wind rushes down the steep slopes as if wanting to blow away the islands made bare by its strength long ago. The bare shores of Pag and Rab facing the mainland are, therefore, reminiscent of the moonscape. The bura goes wild in the night. After daybreak, it continues to subside until noon, when it goes for lunch, as people would say… The worst thing about the bura is the fact that it can arise out of the blue and become the bane of every sailing expedition. The jugo, also known as πilok, arrives in the company of clouds, low and laden with rain. In the southern Adriatic, the jugo is often stormy and lifts up long and straight waves, which roll over the shores, contouring the beautiful white beaches, taking in more, returning less. A wind which may be rather unpleasant at times, especially in winter, is the lebiÊ or garbin, a south-westerly wind that can take on a stormy character and stir up waves whose paths cross and destroy the shores and man-made structures. The easterly levant is a moderately strong wind, just like the north-westerly maestral. On a hot day, together with tramontana, the latter will bring much-needed refreshment and fill up the sails with air. No serious and responsible sailor will ever ignore the weather report and forecast. They will follow it very diligently, either online, or by listening to the updated report three times a day on the local radio or to those broadcasted by harbour authorities. And finally, there you are, setting sail from the westernmost place in Croatia, Savudrija, a quaint fishing village − an open door to Istria, a unique peninsula, or terra magica, which seems to benefit from both the mainland and the sea … Even if you do not care all that much for small fishing villages, at least look at the way they protect their boats; they do not pull them ashore in bad weather, but instead, pull them above the sea, onto wooden constructions known as grue… As your expedition

Jedinstven na Mediteranu meu svim marinama lanac je od 22 ACI marine, ujednaËene, visoke kvalitete usluge, sadræaja, opremljenosti, pa Ëak i arhitekture, takoer pravilno rasporeenih na ponajboljim mjestima duæ obale. Uz osnovnu − prihvat nautiËara, nude i bogatu i raznoliku charter uslugu te brojne aktivnosti na vodi poput ronjenja ili daskanja. Nije stoga neobiËno da je na Boot sajmu u Düsseldorfu Hrvatska spomenuta kao top nautiËko charter odredište u Europi.

Ivo Pervan

And so here you are, on your own or with a group of friends or a crew, or a skipper, on a boat in the middle of a much-admired sea whose temperature in the summer can reach 27 degrees. There is almost no difference between the high and low tides, so you do not have to depend on the high tide to set sail. And once you do, you will be hard pressed to choose the most beautiful scene on your journey: that moment at dawn when the sea and the sky are almost one on the pinkish grey horizon, or the countless nuances of turquoise that replace one another during the day, or perhaps the unique, fiery sunsets, when reflections spill over the surface of the sea making it look as if it were ablaze. The Croatian sea boasts a perfect translucency; in certain places, you can see as deep as a dizzying 55 metres down. Its salinity is ideal. In their famous speeches, Kennedy and Gore painted a vivid picture of harmony found in the composition of the sea, and in the combination of human blood, sweat and tears; they drew a simile between returning to the sea and returning home. The fragrance of the sea is like the fragrance of a freshly-cut watermelon, fresh and sweet, mixed with the breath of the coast, of cypresses, laurel and immortelle … The sun is high up in the sky, at its zenith; the auspicious maestral wind makes noisy attacks on the folded sails, like a reminder. What else, but to unfold the sails wide, to set out and embark on a sailing expedition along the most beautiful coastline in the world, leaving the relentless crickets’ song behind? But beware: winds are one of the most critical elements in sailing; just like fire, they make good servants, but bad masters. Sometimes, they can make these tame waters go so wild that you had better respect them. The bura and jugo are the most well-known Adriatic winds. The unpredictable bura blows in gusts; it raises sea dust making it look as if the sea is boiling. It is cold and dry, except on rare occasions when it picks up rain and clouds on its way. That is what is called the dark bura; it brings sunny and

continues, you will sail by the sandy beaches of tennis Mecca, Umag, and then, Novigrad, PoreË, Vrsar, Rovinj, and Pula, following each other like pearls on a string. There are also the 14 islets in the Brijuni Archipelago, one of the three island national parks, the other two being the Kornati Archipelago and Mljet. Owing to their climate, ﬂora and fauna, the Brijuni islands have long been known as a paradise on Earth. Pula’s pride is the old Roman amphitheatre; together with Diocletian’s Palace in Split, this is the largest and most well-preserved monument of the era in Croatia … Further down along the coast, you will see lavish villas in Lovran and Opatija, the latter lovingly dubbed the elegant old lady and famous for being the cradle of Croatian tourism. Next on your route are the islands in Kvarner Bay: Cres, Krk, Rab, Loπinj, Pag and Susak, every one of them different from the other, just like the small settlements across the sea from them, at the foot of the rugged Velebit mountains on the mainland. And then, there is the Kornati Archipelago, a group of 150 uninhabited islands and islets stretching between Zadar and ©ibenik, two beautiful, monumental cities, made out of stone. Try to imagine how many isolated and tranquil coves there are just for you on the Kornati Archipelago alone - places for which you do not need a reservation or a lot of money... After Primoπten, the city connected to the mainland by a causeway, and Skradin, whose location is cut deep into the mainland, and after a short excursion to the fairytale world of the Krka River waterfalls, we arrive at Trogir, an architectural jewel carved out of stone, with a well-protected harbour which brings sailors to it in droves. After Split, a city, which not only has an antique-like magniﬁcence about it, but is also a throbbing centre of everyday life, with the only inhabited old Roman palace in the world, you will sail by the islands of Hvar, BraË, and KorËula, which boast breath-taking cities and satellite archipelagos, such as the CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ivo Pervan

Pakleni Islands off the shore of Hvar. You will see spectacular beaches, like the Golden Horn on the island of BraË, protruding into the sea like a pebbly tongue whose tip changes daily at the whim of the wind, or the sandy beach of Vela Præina on the island of KorËula. A bit further away is the island of Vis, boasting a remarkable past: Biπevo and its Blue Cave, off-shore Lastovo, the volcanic island of Jabuka, and the wondrous lighthouse island − Palagruæa. Another national park, the island of Mljet, is covered by dense forests. It boasts wellpreserved, almost pristine scenery, two salty lakes and the best natural harbour on the Adriatic − PolaËe. The antique palace on Mljet is the third largest ancient Roman monument on the Adriatic coast. And here we are, within the reach of the coastal crown jewel -Dubrovnik, a one-time republic, a city-state whose wellpreserved walls, sumptuous palaces, churches and monasteries bear witness to its former size, power, organization and freedom. Needless to say, our story does not end here; there are so many places which we have not even mentioned, let alone succeeded in describing − all of their individual charm, all the fragrances and colours: the silver olive trees, the gold and purple grapes, the tiny yellow ﬁgs whose entrails ooze the sweetest nectar, the fresh colours and tastes of oranges, lemons and tangerines, the sweet bitterness of pomegranates and strawberry trees… We did not have enough time or space to say anything about the numerous cultural monuments in the cities on your sailing route or the labyrinths of colourful stone-paved streets, polished by centuries of use, like Stradun, the main thoroughfare in the old city of Dubrovnik. Nothing has been said about the freshly-laundered clothes, which hang high above your head on lines, which connect the two sides of narrow streets and alleys, and look like sails. Nothing has been said about the delights that can be found on gustoza ita, a hedonistic

The ACI chain, comprising 22 marines, is unique in the Mediterranean. The marinas are evenly-situated at the best locations along the coast and offer consistent high-quality services, facilities, equipment and even have common architectural features. In addition to their core service of accepting nautical tourists, they offer a wide variety of charter services and many water activities, such as scuba diving and surﬁng. Hence, it is not a surprise that at the Boot Düsseldorf trade fair, Croatia was recognised as one of the top nautical charter destinations in Europe. 76

gastronomic sailing route, which is sure to reward your efforts with the finest of flavours the Croatian Adriatic has to offer, including Istrian truffles and the firm meat of Adriatic scampi, absolutely the best when grilled, and seasoned with nothing, but smoke. We have not said a thing about European lobster, warty Venus buzara, a delicious octopus dish, veal cooked under an iron bell, deep-fried Adriatic squid, or the famous gregada prepared at the equally-famous Palmiæana Beach on the island of Hvar. Also, there are artichokes with fava beans prepared locally in the typical fashion, stuffed green peas, succulent greater amberjack, European conger with polenta, chickpeas and pasta with beans, boiled fish and vegetables seasoned with garlic and olive oil, grilled goat’s meat, and Senko’s brudettos cooked in a restaurant in Mala Trovna on Vis where you could be discussing books and helping in the preparation of your own meal at the same time. There are salty sardines and anchovies with capers freshly-picked behind the restaurant, or rock samphires, which grow in the cracks between the rocks washed with sea foam; mussels and oysters from Ston, milt, popara fish broth from Lopud, grilled sardines full of goodness… or just a bit of goat’s cheese or widely-acclaimed sheep’s cheese from Pag with olives and prosciutto, and an occasional roæata, the Dalmatian version of crème brulée, with real rose liqueur to top off the experience, and all this washed down with divine nectars, starting with Istrian Malvasia, Ælahtina from Vrbnik, BabiÊ from Primošten, Vugava from Vis, Hvar and KorËula’s Plavac and DingaË from the Peljeπac Peninsula… How would it be possible to conjure all this up in words without having a taste… And finally, it does not really matter whether you have tied your boat on the seafront of a stellar tourist destination, just a step away from suntanned passers-by in designer clothes, headed for dinner, from street vendors, artists and musicians, or you have thrown the anchor a bit further out, at a spot where moonlight is the only light, and the sky is studded with at least three times as many stars than where you come from… You are lying on the prow as if you were your boat’s own decorative figurehead; the sea is fragrant, dark and calm. The sound of music reaches you from the terrace of a hotel on the coast; the reflections of the cities can be discerned in the water close to the shore. And while the sea gives wet kisses to the flanks of your boat, licking them almost without making a sound, you will know, at least tonight, at least here and now − that life is really beautiful. W

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OBALA COAST

Pogled na Omiπ iz zraka Aerial view of Omiπ

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Piπe/By Ružica MikaËiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

Tvrava Mirabella The Mirabella Fortress

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Detalj s omiπke Dinare The Omiπka Dinara, detail

Omiπ je bio i ostao grad na stijeni i uza stijenu. Kamene gromade nad gradom nisu Omiπu oduzele nimalo na ljepoti i pitomosti. ©toviπe. Njegovu su krajoliku dale dramatiËnost koja se rijetko sreÊe, a domiπljati domaÊini koristili su se njima kao podziem svojih srednjovjekovnih 80

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Pogled na gradsku luku i naselje View of the town port and surrounding area

graevina što i danas oduπevljavaju skladom i uklopljenoπÊu u prostor. Za taj mali grad u srednjoj Dalmaciji njegovi Êe stanovnici kazati kako je gotovo idealno posloæen nudeÊi sve πto Ëovjeku moæe uljepπati æivot. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Detalj s plaæe i pogled na BraË The beach and a view of BraË, detail

Omiπ has been and remains a town on a rock and by a rock. The boulders above the town have not taken away any of the beauty and tameness of Omiπ. On the contrary, they have given its landscape incredible dramatics, which is quite rare, and while used as the footings for medieval 82

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UπÊe rijeke Cetine The mouth of the Cetina River

buildings, they still delight by their harmony and the way they are incorporated into the space. The residents of that small town in central Dalmatia will say that it is almost ideally arranged, offering everything that can brighten a person’s life. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Balote na Punti

Sportsko igraliπte na Punti

Bocce players in Punta

The sports ground in Punta

Detalj s Velike plaæe The Big Beach, detail

MaËke Cats

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Detalj s Foπala Foπale, detail

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Tvornica tjestenine Cetina Hotel PlaĂŚa

The Pasta Factory Cetina

Agava

Jablani u kampu Galeb

Agave

Poplars at the Galeb Campsite

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Motiv trstike, rijeka Cetina Motif of bamboo canes, the Cetina River

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Uvala Vruja The Vruja Bay

Pisak

Mimice

Mimice, detalj Mimice, detail

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Motiv s plaæe The beach

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Pogled na Veliku plaĂŚu

More, detalj

View of the Big Beach

The sea, detail

Motiv iz gradske luke

Motiv s mula

The town port

The quay

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Pogled na BabnjaËu View of BabnjaËa

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Motiv s Cetine The Cetina

PaviÊa most The PaviÊa Bridge

Dobra voda, motiv iz omiπkog zalea Dobra Voda, the Omiπ hinterland

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Kruh ispod peke (restoran Kaštil Slanica) Bread baked under an iron lid (peka) (restoran Kaštil Slanica)

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Pogled na Smokvicu View of Smokvica

Crkva sv. Mihovila The Parish Church of St. Michael (Sv. Mihovil)

KuÊa Franceschi Foπal The Franceschi Foπal Villa

Ulica knezova KaËiÊa The Street of the KaËiÊ Dukes

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Trg Stjepana RadiÊa, pogled na Mirabellu i zvonik crkve sv. Mihovila The Stjepan RadiÊ Square, a view of Mirabella and the bell-tower of St. Michael’s Church

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Detalj, stari grad The Old Town, detail

Spomenik braniteljima Domovinskog rata (autor: Kaæimir Hraste)

Pogled na most i BabnjaËu View of a bridge and BabnjaËa

Foπal, detalj Foπal, detail

Monument to the Defenders of Omiπ (sculptor: Kaæimir Hraste)

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juæne strane Omiš je odredila crta nemirnog plavetnila morske obale i rijeka Cetina koja se, vijugajuÊi iz njedara krπkog zalea, baπ tu predaje moru osiguravajuÊi svjeæinu tog prostora i u najsparnijim ljetnim noÊima. A kad pogledate gore, sve je kamen. Nad njim, poput Ëuvara sa sjevera, nadvio se planinski masiv pod Ëijim se stijenama smjestila ljepota toga slikovitoga grada juæno od Splita, stijeπtenoga na uskom pojasu izmeu planine i mora. Grad uklesan u kamenu i od kamena vuËe korijene u zaseoku BauËiÊi, mjestu na brijegu sjevernije od danaπnjega grada gdje je pronaeno mnogo antiËkih ulomaka s rimskim natpisima uklesanima za vladavine rimskih careva Tiberija i Klaudija, koji se Ëuvaju u Gradskome muzeju Omiπa. Od tada preko srednjovjekovnog Olmissiuma, Almiyssiuma, a u doba mletaËke vlasti Almissa, pa sve do danas, Omiπ je bio i ostao grad na stijeni i uza stijenu. Kamene gromade nad gradom nisu Omiπu oduzele nimalo na ljepoti i pitomosti. ©toviπe. Njegovu su krajoliku dale dramatiËnost koja se rijetko sreÊe, a domiπljati domaÊini koristili su ih kao podzia svojih srednjovjekovnih graevina što i danas oduπevljavaju skladom i uklopljenoπÊu u prostor. Za taj mali grad u srednjoj Dalmaciji njegovi Êe stanovnici kazati kako je gotovo idealno posloæen nudeÊi sve πto Ëovjeku moæe uljepπati æivot, od kamenog srca grada protkanog uskim uliËicama, do zelenila uz rijeku i najveÊe pjeπËane plaæe na Jadranu, duge Ëak 800 metara. Njezin oblik prirodno je odredila snaga rijeke Cetine, koja se samo nekoliko stotina metara dalje ulijeva u more. Poe li se od Velike omiπke plaæe prema središtu grada, valja proÊi kroz predjel zvan BoriÊi, koji je generacijama bio i ostao mjesto romantiËnih sastanaka i susreta uz more, mjeseËinu i puËinu. Danas tim prostorom dominira Spomenik braniteljima Omiπa autora

Kaæimira Hraste, te bronËani Spomenik ribaru, za koji vrijedi legenda da donosi sreÊu onome tko ga pomiluje po glavi… Danaπnja prometnica koja presijeca Omiπ na dio grada uz more i dio ispod stijena, nekada je bila vodeni kanal rijeke Cetine (foπal) pa se glavna ulica i danas zove Foπal. Kada se prijee središnja ulica − Foπal i poe πetnjom prema srediπtu grada podno stijena, stiæe se do nekadaπnjeg zavrπetka gradskih zidina s trokutastim bedemom, koje vode prema gusarskoj tvravi Peovica (Mirabela), koja dominira na klisuri iznad grada. Tako je u proπlosti kontrola morskih putova s visokih izvidnica iznad grada bila osigurana, a kako je s morske strane grad bio potpuno zaπtiÊen zidinama, Omiπ je bio stoljeÊima neosvojiv. Povijesna jezgra grada tako je malena da je sve smjeπteno u samo dvije stotine metara: od gradske knjiænice, crkve, dviju ljekarni, nekoliko trgovina, trænica, ribarnica do maloga Gradskog muzeja sa zbirkom nalaza joπ iz rimskih vremena 1. stoljeÊa. ©etnjom se dalje stiæe do IstoËnih gradskih vrata, a podruËje iza njih Omiπani jednostavno zovu Vangrad. HodajuÊi uskim kamenim uliËicama i prolazeÊi uza Samostan Ëasnih sestara sluæavki malog Isusa, koje se stoljeÊima brinu za teπko bolesne, pogled valja dignuti prema kuÊama koje su na tom prostoru doslovno uπle u stijene ponad grada, pokazujuÊi svu dramatiku suæivota Ëovjeka i kamena, gradnju u kojoj se priroda prati, a æivi kamen rabi da se dobije na ËvrstoÊi gradnje. Ondje gdje se Ëinilo da ljudska ruka ne moæe protiv stijene, nastale su male oaze maslinika i vrtova kojima zastraπujuÊe klisure Ëuvaju lea, a morski zrak i osunËani jug daju toplinu i slador plodovima. U tako skuËenim uvjetima u kojima su æivot odreivale stijene, rijeka i obala, u tom uskom trokutu iskoristivog prostora, Omiπani su znali oplemeniti svaki centimetar zemljiπta otetog stijeni, a i danas su na mjestima vi-

soko iznad mora u skutima omiπke Dinare odræavani maslinici. ©etnjom dalje stiæe se do Male pjace, na kojoj je sve do Drugoga svjetskog rata bila Ëesma s pitkom vodom što je unutar grada svima bila podjednako dostupna − i vlasteli i slugama. Glavna stara gradska ulica koja je povezivala istoËna i zapadna gradska vrata danas se lokalno zove Pjaca. Zanimljivo je da je naËin urbanizacije Omiπa napravljen prije viπe stoljeÊa jednak onome koji danas ima New York. Naime, Omiπ ima dvije avenije − Pjacu i Foπal i devet popreËnih kala − ulica. Velika pjaca do koje se zatim dolazi zapravo je Trg svetog Mihovila, nazvan po crkvi toga sveca, suzaπtitnika grada, sagraenoj i dovrπenoj 1601. godine. Na toj prekrasnoj crkvi jednostavne puËke gradnje gotiËkog sloga, nailazi se i na dekorirani renesansni grb grada, a portal prati barokni oltar u unutraπnjosti. Gradskim uliËicama Ëiji su ploËnici stari oko 300 godina, raeni u vrijeme kada se poploËavalo radi transporta na magarËiÊima, stiæe se do uzviπenijeg dijela grada iznad kojega se uzdiæe omiπka Mirabela, tvrava i zaπtitni znak grada, s koje se vidi cijeli Omiπ i veÊina srednjodalmatinskih otoka. Do tog dijela Omiπa ne moæe se niËim osim − pjeπke, ali unatoË tomu, ljudi i danas æive ondje naviknuti na hodanje kamenim ploËnicima do svojih kuÊa u okrilju stijene. Zauzvrat imaju nevjerojatan mir i tiπinu u središtu toga æivoga dalmatinskoga turistiËkoga grada. Zbog uzviπenja od æivog kamena, u starom gradu stvoren je na navjerojatno malom prostoru sklop graevina ispod Gradskog sata s crkvama Svetog Duha, u kojoj se odvijaju koncerti komorne glazbe, i svetog Roka. Zid obliænje zgrade krase izvorni gradski grb s kriæem i buzdovanom te natpis Bonum Demero Bono, πto najvjerojatnije znaËi Dobro nam dolazi od Ëistog dobra ili, kako Omiπani vole reÊi, ...Dobro nam dolazi od Ëistog vina. StruËnjaci joπ dvoje oko tumaËenja…

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Crkva sv. Petra, Priko The Church of St. Peter (Sv. Petar) in Priko

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No, najbolji turistiËki slogan Omiπa nalazi se na proËelju lijepe renesansne kamene kuÊe iz 16. stoljeÊa. Na stabilnu i moÊnu graevinu od bijeloga braËkog kamena, ponosni je vlasnik iznad vrata uklesao natpis: Hvala ti Gospodine πto sam bio na ovom svijetu. Kako je Omiπ bio cijeli njegov svijet, zacijelo je Bogu bio zahvalan πto æivi upravo tu i zato se ta kuÊa do danas zove KuÊa sretnog Ëovjeka. Omiπ osobito u ljetnim noÊima postaje grad sretnih ljudi kad njegovim pjacama odzvanjaju prepoznatljivi zvuci dalmatinske klapske pjesme, koja je svoju potvrdu naπla upravo u Omiπu. Festival dalmatinskih klapa kao glavni kulturni dogaaj u Omiπu, s tradicijom dugom gotovo pola stoljeÊa, pretvara u ljetnim mjesecima Omiπ i njegovu Veliku pjacu u mjesto uæivanja u tradicionalnom viπeglasnom pjevanju tipiËnom za Dalmaciju. Potpuno drugaËija omiπka tradicija, ona gusarska iz srednjeg vijeka, iznjedrila je danaπnje turistiËke spektakle u Omiπu, temeljene na legendama i povijesti omiπkih gusara. Poloæaj Omiπa na vaænim kriæiπtima sukobljenih sila, odrediπtima morskih putova, s planinom odakle se kontrolirala plovidba, s morem kao jedinim izvorom æivota, predodredili su Omiπu srednjovjekovnu gusarsku povijest. Imao je idealne uvjete da postane gusarsko gnijezdo jer lako ga je bilo braniti, a teπko osvojiti. U to su vrijeme bili nadaleko poznati maleni i brzi omiπki plitki i uski brodovi na vesla, zvani sagita (strijela), kojima bi iz uπÊa Cetine isplovili, opljaËkali neprijateljski brod na moru i vraÊali se opet na rijeku. No, da bi se osigurali od neprijatelja, na rijeci su napravili uski prolaz i nasip zvan Mostina sa æeljeznim lancima, zbog kojih neprijateljski brodovi nisu mogli dalje u potjeru za njima. Omiπani bi se sklonili u tvravu Peovicu. Stari grad u kojemu je u to vrijeme æivio i omiπki kapetan, bio je 280 metara iznad danaπnjeg Omiπa.

Da su omiπki gusari bili pravi gospodari Jadrana, sigurna je zaljubljenica u omiπku povijest profesorica Marija KalajæiÊ. Ona je jedna od onih koja je taj dio povijesti ugraivala u pravi kulturni i turistiËki brend grada, organizirajuÊi godinama Omiπke gusarske veËeri uz poeziju i glazbu, koje se odvijaju na platoau podno nekadaπnje gusarske utvrde Mirabela. Posljednjih godina ta je manifestacija obogaÊena i rekonstrukcijom gusarske bitke, koja se organizira svake godine u kolovozu, vraÊajuÊi domaÊine i goste u vrijeme gusarskih borbi na moru. A tek nekoliko kilometara uzvodno od mjesta gdje more grli veliËanstveno zelenilo rijeke Cetine što vijuga surovim kanjonom, ulazi se u svijet vrba, topola i svjeæe kontinentalne klime i stiæe do Radmanovih mlinica. Snagom vode tu su vodene mlinice stoljeÊima mljele æito i kukuruz, a danas su pretvorene u izletiπte i restoran s najpoznatijim specijalitetima omiπkog kraja, koji miluju nepce baπ onako kao πto zelenomodra ljepota Omiπa i njegova okruæja miluje duπu svakog namjernika. .

rom the south, the town was determined by the line of the restless blue of the seashore and the Cetina River, which meandering from the bosom of the karst hinterland, surrenders itself to the sea at that very spot, ensuring freshness of the area even in the hottest summer nights. And when you look up, all you see is rock. Looming above it, like a guardian from the north, is a mountain range; below it, a town of picturesque beauty, situated south of Split, and squeezed on a narrow strip between the mountain and the sea - Omiπ. The town itself is carved in stone and has its roots in stone in the hamlet BauËiÊi, a village on a hill north of the present town, where many ancient fragments have been found,

with Roman inscriptions carved during the reign of the Roman emperors Tiberius and Claudius, which are kept in the Omiπ Town Museum. Since then, from the medieval Olmissium, Almiyssiuma, and during the period of Venetian rule until today, Omiπ has been and remains a town on a rock and by a rock. The boulders above the town have not taken away any of the beauty and tameness of Omiπ. On the contrary, they have given its landscape incredible dramatics, which is quite rare, and while used as the footings for medieval buildings, they still delight by their harmony and the way they are incorporated into the space. The residents of that small town in central Dalmatia will say that it is almost ideally arranged, offering everything that can brighten a person’s life, from the stone heart of the town of interwoven narrow streets to the greenery along the river and the longest sand beach on the Adriatic, which is 800 meters long. The force of the Cetina River, which ﬂows into the sea just a few hundred meters away, naturally deﬁned its form. If you go from the Big Beach of Omiπ towards the centre, you ought to pass through an area called BoriÊi, which has for generations been a place of romantic outings and meetings by the sea, by moonlight and in the open sea air. Today, this area is dominated by the Monument to the Defenders of Omiπ by sculptor Kaæimir Hraste, and the bronze Monument to the Fisherman, which, according to the legend, brings good luck to whoever touches its head... The present-day road which divides Omiπ into the part of the town along the sea and the part below the rocks was once a water channel of the Cetina River (foπal), which is the main reason why the main street is still called Foπal. When you cross the central street of Foπal, and start strolling towards the town centre at the foot of the rocks, you reach the end of the former town walls with a triangular

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Pogled s Mile GojsaliÊ na omiπka vrata (autor: Ivan MeπtroviÊ) The Omiπ gates, a view from the Mila GojsaliÊ sculpture (sculptor: Ivan MeπtroviÊ)

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wall leading to the pirate fortress Peovica (Mirabela), which dominates the cliff above the town. This is how sea route controllers from high lookouts above the town were secured in the past, and since the town is completely protected by walls from the sea side, Omiπ has been unassailable for centuries. The town’s historical core is so small that everything is crammed into only two hundred metres: the public library, the church, two pharmacies, a few shops, the market, the fish market and the small Town Museum with a collection of findings dating back to the Roman times of the first century. The stroll through town will then take you to the East Town Gate; the area behind it is simply called Vangrad by the townspeople. While walking through the narrow cobblestone streets and passing by the Convent of the Sisters Servants of Infant Jesus, who have for centuries been caring for the seriously ill, it is worth looking up toward the houses in that general area, which have literally become part of the rock above the town, demonstrating the dramatic nature of coexistence between humans and rocks; a construction which follows nature and uses live rock to ensure firmness of the construction. There were times when it seemed that the human hand would not be able to overcome the rock, and in places where it seemed impossible, small oases of olive groves and gardens were formed, with terrifying cliffs watching their backs while the sea air and the sun-kissed south gave warmth and sweetness to the fruits. Under these cramped conditions, in which life was determined by the rocks, rivers and coast, in the narrow triangle of usable space, the people of Omiπ were able to cultivate every inch of land taken from the rock, and even today, olive groves are maintained in places high above the sea at the foot of the Dinara. A further stroll will take you to the Small Piazza, which until World War II, had a fountain with drinking water which was equally accessible to everyone within the town − to both the lords and the servants. The main old town street which connected the east and west town gates is, today, locally called Pjaca. It is interesting that the way of urbanization of Omiπ made centuries ago is the same as the one which New York has today! Namely, Omiπ has two avenues − the Piazza and the Foπal, and nine cross streets (kale). The Great Piazza that you will then reach is actually the Square of St. Michael, built and completed in 1601, and named after the church of this saint, the town’s patron. You can also find the town’s decorated Renaissance emblem on this beautiful church of simple traditional

construction in the Gothic style, while inside, the portal overlooks a Baroque altar. The town streets of 300-year-old pavement, made at a time when paving was done to enable transport by donkeys, will take you to the elevated part of town above which, the Omiπ Mirabela, a fortress and symbol of defense, rises up to meet you. From there, you can get a great view of the entire city of Omiπ and most of the central Dalmatian islands. Although you can reach this part of Omiπ only by foot, people still live there because they are used to walking on cobbled pavement to their homes, sheltered by the rocks. In return, they have incredible peace and tranquility in the centre of this lively Dalmatian tourist town. Thanks to the elevation of the living stone, in the extremely small space in the old town, a set of buildings was constructed under the Town Clock, including the Church of the Holy Spirit, which hosts chamber music concerts and next to it, the small Church of Saint Roch. The wall of the nearby building has the original town emblem on it, with a cross and a mace and an inscription that reads: Bonum Demero Bono, which most likely means, Good comes from pure good, or as the townspeople like to say, Good comes from pure wine. The experts are still contemplating the interpretation... However, the best tourism slogan of Omiπ is located on the façade of a beautiful Renaissance 16th century stone house. On this great and stable ediﬁce, made of white BraË stone, the proud owner carved the following inscription above the door: Thank you Lord for my existence in this world. As Omiπ was his whole world, he was surely grateful to God for living at that very place; for this reason, the house has been called House of the Happy Man ever since. Summer is special, particularly in the evening, when Omiπ becomes a town of happy people and its piazzas echo the distinctive sounds of Dalmatian a capella singing, which by the way, found its acknowledgement in this very town. During the summer evenings, the Festival of Dalmatian a Cappella Singing Groups, a major cultural event in Omiπ, with a tradition of almost half a century long, turns Omiπ and its Great Piazza into a place for enjoying the traditional a cappella singing typical of Dalmatia. A completely different tradition in Omiπ is that of the medieval pirates, which have given rise to the present-day tourist performances in Omiπ, and are based on the legends and history of the pirates of Omiπ. The position of Omiπ as a crossroads for conﬂicting powers, and sea route destinations, with a navigation centre on top of a mountain, and the sea be-

ing the only source of life, were factors that predetermined the medieval pirate history of Omiπ. The conditions were ideal for it to become a pirate nest because it was easy to defend and difﬁcult to conquer. At the time, small and fast shallow, narrow boats with oars called sagitta (arrow) were very well-known. They were used by the pirates to set sail from the mouth of the Cetina, rob the enemy ship at sea and return to the river again. However, to protect themselves from the enemy, on the river, they built a narrow passage and mound called Mostina, with iron chains that disabled enemy ships from continuing to pursue them. The townspeople would take refuge in the fortress Peovica. The old town, in which the captain of Omiπ was a resident at the time, was 280 metres above present-day Omiπ. History professor, Marija KalajæiÊ, an enthusiast of Omiπ history, is certain that the Omiπ pirates were the real masters of the Adriatic. She is one of the people who made the history of Omiπ into a true cultural and tourist brand, organizing for years the Omiπ Pirate Nights with poetry and music that take place at the plateau below the former pirate fortress Mirabela. In recent years, this event has also been enriched by a reconstruction of the pirate battle which is organized every year in August, taking hosts and visitors back to the time of the pirate battles at sea. A few kilometres upstream from where the sea embraces the magniﬁcent green of the Cetina River, which can be found meandering through the harsh canyon, one enters a world of willows, poplars and the fresh continental climate and ends up at the Radman Mills. Water power allowed water mills to grind grain and corn for centuries, but today, these millshave turned into a resort and a restaurant which offers the most famous specialties of the Omiπ area, caressing the palate of patrons, just as the blue-green beauty of Omiπ and its surroundings caresse the soul of every traveller. W CROATIA AIRLINES

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U dugome i neprekinutom nizu od pet stoljeÊa,

TRADICIJA TRADITION

svake se godine, u noÊi na Veliki petak, na srediπnjem dijelu otoka Hvara, odræava procesija Za Kriæen, jedinstveni obred krπÊanske duhovnosti. U njoj se svakom dolazniku, u cjelonoÊnom ophodu kroz otoËne krajolike, mjesta i staze, pruæa moguÊnost otkrivanja veliËanstvenog prostora neznanog kraljevstva vlastita srca. U tom izriËaju duhovne tradicije prisutna je snaga izgovorene molitve, koja, uz drevni napjev Gospina plaËa, ispunjava hvarske crkve i zvonike, visoravni, polja i maslinike, teæeÊi ostvarenju Ëovjekove vjere u Cilj vlastita hodoËaπÊa. Taj biser puËke pasionske poboænosti prepoznao je i Unesco, uvrstivπi ga 2009. godine u svjetski popis nematerijalne kulturne baπtine ËovjeËanstva s otiskom rijetke osobitosti. Over a long and continuous period of five centuries, every year, on the eve of Good Friday, Za Križen, the Following the Cross procession, a unique ritual of Christian spirituality takes place in the central part of the island of Hvar. The all-night procession through the countryside, settlements and along island paths, gives each and every visitor an opportunity to discover the magnificent space of an unknown kingdom in their own heart. This expression of spiritual tradition contains the strength of prayer which, together with the ancient Lamentation of the Virgin Mary, fills Hvar’s churches and belfries,

Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Ivo Pervan

plateaus, ﬁelds and olive groves, and longs to help man in his fulﬁllment of belief, especially in the pursuit of his own inner pilgrimage. This pearl of popular passion piety was recognized by UNESCO and included on its list of intangible cultural heritage in 2009, with a status of remarkable rarity.

Doista, gdje vam je blago, ondje Êe vam i srce biti. Luka, 12:34 For where your treasure is, there will your heart be also. Luke 12:34 CROATIA AIRLINES

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ivot je Ëudo koje dopušta da se Ëuda i dogaaju. Uostalom, kako raste cvijet, vrte se planeti, zvijezde ne padaju na zemlju? Od svog nastanka Ëovjek teæi osvijestiti svrhovitost i cilj postojanja. »ini se da mu je jedini pravi posao u svemiru, otkriti svemir u sebi, uoËiti sebe u drugima te spoznajom osvijetliti beskrajni niz vidljivih i nevidljivih poveznica svoga unutraπnjega i vanjskog obzorja. Procesija i hodoËaπÊe alegorija su ljudskog æivota, koja kroz mnoge kulture i religijske nasade povezuju vanjsko i unutarnje te moralno i duhovno putovanje u kojima hodoËasnik molitveno zaziva Izvor postojanja da bi u misteriju otkrivanja vlastite nutrine dotaknuo svoj biserni Vrh, prostor s otkrivenim blagom. Ona predstavljaju i izazove vjere i predanosti s kojima se otkriva Istina o sebi te propituje vlastita povezanost sa svijetlim primjerima onih posebnika, koji su vlastitim æivotima dokazali da se i bez svjetovnih kompromisa može æivjeti ideal uzviπene Jednote. Na vjeËnom putovanju otkrivanja tko smo i kamo idemo, Ëesto se izriËe molitva kao najdublji, najsnaæniji i najsvjetliji alat srca. Ona izvire iz unutraπnje Ëeænje, a njezina upotreba, kao πto kazuju mudri, bolja je ako se upuÊuje iz srca bez izgovorenih rijeËi, nego s rijeËima a bez srca. O njoj su napisani mnogi eseji i knjige, duhovni i znanstveni radovi, ali svi se slaæu u jednome. Molitva je titraj jednine, pustolovina otvaranja, odah od intelektualnih zakljuËaka, vidik u skrivenu unutraπnjost, Vrh obzora kojem se teæi, a dostiæe se strpljivom alkemijom predanosti i poniznosti usmjerenoj prostoru Spoznaje, u kojem logika uma redovito gubi bitku s logikom srca. HodoËaπÊa postoje gotovo u svim religijama; od hinduizma, budizma, judaizma, krπÊanstva, islama. KrπÊanska hodoËaπÊa povezana su s Isusovim æivotom, Njegovim raspeÊem i uskrsnuÊem, a poËela su veÊ u treÊem stoljeÊu hodoËasniËkim putovanjima u Jeruzalem i Svetu Zemlju. Poslije, povezuju se i sa æivotima apostola, svetaca i krπÊanskih muËenika, pa 106

se u ranom srednjem vijeku razvijaju velika hodoËaπÊa u Rim, sveta mjesta u Palestini te Santiago de Compostelu. Mnogobrojni vjernici svoje duhovne teænje usmjerili su i na poznata mjesta ukazanja Blaæene Djevice Marije − u francuski Lourdes, portugalsku Fatimu, meksiËki Guadalupe Hidalgo te od 80-ih godina proπlog stoljeÊa i u Meugorje, u Bosni i Hercegovini. Na tragu svoga duhovnog izazova i pisac Paulo Coelho, u svom romanu HodoËaπÊe (1987.), jednostavnim i teËnim stilom iznosi svoja duhovna iskustva s poznate krπÊanske hodoËasniËke Rute sv. Jakova, nazvane joπ i Putem za Santiago. Taj drevni hodoËasniËki put u svojoj punoj duæini od 780 kilometara, od svakoga duhovnog tragaoca iziskuje trideset dana pjeπaËke odluËnosti, ustrajnosti i predanosti usmjerenih k Cilju. Put sv. Jakova povijesno se odvija joπ od ranoga srednjeg vijeka, kroz pitoreskne planinske staze, πume i srednjovjekovna naselja. HodoËaπÊe poËinje u francuskom Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Portu a zavrπava dolaskom u πpanjolsku Galiciju, u Santiago de Compostelu, na obali Atlantika, te se proslavlja ulaskom u njezinu poznatu romaniËku katedralu, ujedno i svetiπte apostola Jakova, u kojoj se svaki dan, toËno u podne, odræava posebna hodoËasniËka misa. Misna sveËanost osobita je jer u njoj se podiæe masivna srebrna kadionica iz 1851. godine, kojom upravlja Ëak osam osoba, a puπta se u njihanje srediπtem katedrale u zamasima do krajeva katedralnog svoda. U navedenom naslovu, Coelho uz mnoge doæivljene susrete i duhovna znamenja iskazuje da je religiozno hodoËaπÊe uvijek bilo jedno od najobjektivnijih naËina stizanja do prosvjetljenja. Jedan od naËina da se ispravi grijeh jest da se neprestano hoda naprijed, primajuÊi zauzvrat tisuÊe blagoslova koje æivot velikoduπno daje onima koji traæe. HodoËaπÊa nude duboka iskustva upoznavanja sebe, na tom putu sreÊu se i drugi tragaoci, uveÊava se sloboda odnosa s ﬁziËkim svijetom, ostvaruje sreÊa koja je veÊa od pukog veselja ostvarenih potreba s poviπenim osjeÊajima vlastitog postojanja. Jer, poznato je, ono πto se nalazi izvan nas, moæe se prodati, ali ono πto se sjedinjuje s unutarnjim biÊem, ne moæe. Na tim iskustvima stjeËe se jednostavnost koja ne istiËe svoje vrijednosti i ne zahtijeva nadnicu, ali izraæava duhovni izriËaj kao vrhunski doseg prostora u kojem obitava. StoljeÊima oËuvani vjerski obiËaji i manifestacije, tradicijski obrti te narodna glazbena baπtina tvore nematerijalnu baπtinu neke zemlje. Hrvatska je na Unescovoj listi prva meu europskim dræavama po broju zaπtiÊene nematerijalne baπtine, a na svjetskoj razini ispred nje samo su Kina, Japan i Koreja.

Dvije velike krπÊanske procesije unesene su na Unescovu listu hrvatske nematerijalne baπtine, Festa svetog Vlaha, koja se odræava u Ëast zaπtitnika Dubrovnika joπ od 1190. godine, te procesija Za Kriæen, koja se na otoku Hvaru, kao tradicionalna noÊna procesija, odvija dulje od pet stoljeÊa. PuËke pasionske procesije na Hvaru, u Velikom tjednu prije Uskrsa, vrlo su rijedak krπÊanski fenomen ne samo u krugu otoËnog dijela srednje Dalmacije ili Hrvatske, nego u sklopu europskoga i mediteranskoga pasionskog kruga. Na tragu tradicijskog, antropoloπkog, religijskog i krπÊanskog iskaza povijesna pozadina te hvarske baπtine u osobitom je izriËaju puËke poboænosti koja se nakon jednog Ëuda u gradu Hvaru razvila potkraj 15. i u poËetku 16. stoljeÊa. Pisani iskazi svjedoËe da su se u poËetku 1510. godine, u doba poznatog ustanka hvarskih puËana protiv mletaËkog plemstva, na Ëijem je Ëelu bio imuÊni puËanin Matija IvaniÊ, u kuÊi admirala Bevilaquea puËani zavjetovali nad kriæem da Êe pogubiti sve mletaËke plemiÊe. Socijalne revolucije uvijek su se najavljivale nasilnoπÊu, Ëiji se izvor pojavljivao u nezadovoljstvu zarobljenosti prostora u kojemu se æivi s pretjeranim ograivanjem, zbog Ëega se gubi perspektiva ravnoteæe i pravilnih omjera u umjetnosti æivljenja. Samo koju veËer poslije, toËnije 6. veljaËe, u kuÊi admirala raspelo s kriæiÊem poËelo je Ëudom krvariti te je, uz mnoge svjedoke i crkvenog kanonika, odmah preneseno u hvarsku katedralu, koja se ubrzo ispunila vjernicima, mornarima i trgovcima koji su se tada naπli u gradu. VeÊ sutradan okupilo se mnogo vjernika u katedrali sudjelujuÊi u prvoj procesiji na hvarskom trgu, iskazujuÊi doæivljaj Ëuda i opomene koja govori da je Bog ljubav, a ne jamac za bilo kakvo nasilje. Sveti KriæiÊ i danas se Ëuva u hvarskoj katedrali. Diljem grada i otoka Hvara od tada se poËinju organizirati procesije Za kriæen u Ëast πtovanja muke Isusove te Gospine boli. Pasionske poboænosti bitno su povezane s bratovπtinama otoka Hvara te zbog njihova trajanja do danas treba zahvaliti vjernicima laicima koji su se, joπ od srednjega vijeka, u njih udruæili te tako saËuvali brojne oblike izraæavanja krπÊanstva u molitvi, u socijalnim i karitativnim djelima te u kulturnom stvaralaπtvu, graditeljstvu, likovnim umjetnostima, knjiæevnosti i kazaliπnoj umjetnosti. Geografski prostor odvijanja procesije Za Kriæen hvarska je ravnica i podgorje na njezinom jugozapadnom dijelu. Tu su okom vidljivi osobiti krajolici i ljepota otoËkog okoliπa; morski pojas s jelπanskom i vrboskom uvalom, prostrana ravnica koja se proteæe od Staroga

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Grada do Jelse, brda i breæuljci uz ravnicu. Mirisno se ovdje objavljuje i eteriËna crnogorica te more koje se ponekad osjeti u zraku s naznakom soli. OtoËna vegetacija i ovdje skriva ili otkriva zemljinu narav, a priroda njezina bujanja ovisi o tome kako se posloæio omjer plodnog tla s kamenom. Obred Kristove muke srediπnji je sadræaj procesije koja svake godine, u noÊi na Veliki petak, nakon misnih liturgija, iz πest æupnih crkava, Jelse, Pitava, Vrisnika, SvirËa, Vrbanja i Vrboske, toËno u 22 sata, kreÊe s istodobnim ophodima. Svaki od πest procesijskih ophoda predvode posebno odabrani kriæonoπe, koji bosonogi ili u vunenim Ëarapama nose kriæ prekriven prozirnim crnim velom, teæak petnaestak kilograma, u znak posebne molitve ili zahvalnosti te kao osobni ili obiteljski zavjet. Biti kriæonoπa uvijek je velika Ëast, pa se to u æupama odreuje i godinama unaprijed, Ëesto i s redom Ëekanja. Kriæonoπu obvezno prati pomoÊnik ili zamjenik koji mu, ako iznemogne, pomaæe nositi kriæ. Tu su i pratioci s velikim baroknim svijeÊnjacima i feralima, koji hodaju uz kriæonoπu tijekom Ëitavog puta i s njim kleËe kod svake postaje; dva glavna pjevaËa, kontadura, i viπe odgovoraËa koji u formi glazbenog dijaloga pjevaju Gospin plaË, osmeraËki pasionski tekst iz 15. stoljeÊa, koji je i glavni sadræaj procesije. U svojoj knjizi Za Kriæen na otoku Hvaru fra Bernardin ©kunca istiËe: NekoÊ se pjevalo sve kitice PlaËa. U novije vrijeme pjeva se po nekoliko strofa kod ispraÊaja i kod svake postaje. Taj osmeraËki pasionski tekst, koji pripada hvarskoj inaËici plaËeva, pripada tipu koji je bio raπiren u podruËju Ëitave priobalne Hrvatske, od Kotora i Budve do Raba, Osora i Rijeke, a u novije je vrijeme potvreno da je u jednoj inaËici bio nazoËan i na Cresu. Na Ëelu procesije ide batistrad, pratitelj koji s posebno izraenim πtapom upozorava kriæonoπu na eventualne zapreke pri noÊnom procesijskom hodu dugom dvadesetak kilometara, koji se odvija bez obzira na vremenske prilike, vjetar 108

ili kiπu. Svi Ëlanovi pratnje odijevaju se u bijele bratovπtinske tunike. Iza njih pridruæuju im se brojni vjernici, hodoËasnici i gosti. ProlazeÊi kroz svih πest mjesta obuhvaÊenih procesijom, sudionici procesije iskazuju poboænosti u svakoj od mjesnih crkava gdje æupnik kriæonoπi daje blagoslov i ohrabruje ga za daljnji put dok kontaduri otpjevaju Gospin plaË. Zatim se nastavlja hod do drugog mjesta i crkve. Procesije se tijekom noÊi nigdje ne sreÊu, nego se u kruænom obilasku svih mjesta paæljivo usklauje kretanje svake od njih. Sve procesijske ophodnje obilaze sva mjesta iz kojih se krenulo, a u noÊnom kruænom ophodu pjeπaËenja kroz maslinike, staze i sela, ujutro oko 7 sati, vraÊaju se u svoja izvorna polaziπta. U sadaπnjem obliku procesija Za kriæen traje oko osam sati. U svakome mjestu osobito je sveËan ispraÊaj mjesne procesije, pri Ëemu je nazoËno mnogo vjernika te doËek ili povratak procesije s izlaskom sunca, redovito na trgu ispred æupne crkve ili u njezinoj neposrednoj blizini. U krugu procesija Za Kriæen Jelsa je mjesto s najveÊim brojem stanovnika pa je stoga i njezina procesija najveÊa. Smjeπtena u manjem morskom zaljevu, na Ëijim rubovima raste bujna borova πuma s drugim mediteranskim raslinjem, Jelsa osvaja ljepotom i jednostavnoπÊu. Joπ od nastanka, vjerski æivot toga pitoresknog mjesta vrlo je intenzivan te ispunjen vjernoπÊu prema liturgijskim i puËkim poboænostima. Poslije izlaska sunca i povratka u svoje mjesto po obiËaju, jedino jelπanska procesija posljednjih 100 metara pretrËi predajuÊi kriæ æupniku, koji ga kleËeÊi Ëeka na središnjem trgu. Takav izniman Ëin predanja uvijek duboko dirne sve prisutne. Procesije i hodoËaπÊa Ëin su predanja. Mudra predaja iskazuje kako bi se u konaËnici mogao ostvariti osjeÊaj predanosti i sebezaborava. PriËa govori o muæu koji je sa suprugom pošao u obilazak svetih mjesta, s Ëvrstom nakanom da se posvema i zauvijek posvete duhovnom æivotu. Dok su jednom kroËili hodoËasniËkom stazom, muæ, koji je hodao neki korak naprijed, ugleda na tlu krupan dijamant. Smjesta ga gurne pod pijesak i liπÊe na stazi, æeleÊi poπtedjeti æenu od pogleda na dijamant te bojazni da bi se supruga mogla polakomiti za njim, jer to bi, pomislio je, za nju bilo odreknuÊe od duhovnog æivota za vezanost za svjetovni. Taman kada je sakrio dijamant pod pijesak, naie æena i upita ga πto to radi. On stane neπto maglovito objaπnjavati, pa æena posumnja u njegov iskaz te razgrne pijesak i ugleda dijamant. Kako je shvatila muæevu nakanu, ona reËe: Zbog Ëega si se zaputio duhovnim putem, kad joπ zapažaš razliku izmeu dijamanta i pijeska?

BeskonaËna istina uvijek živi u idealu jedinstva, a kada se spozna, vidljiva je u sferi bivanja a ne imanja. Svi koji teæe tom uvidu nadilaze moralna ograniËenja svakodnevice jer odgonetka vlastite osobnosti u konaËnici nadvisuje sve druge potrebe. U trenutku kada potreba za dobrotom postane primarna, svijet dualnosti rastapa se u jedninu. Procesije i hodoËaπÊa iskaz su takve potrebe, takvog trenutka i takve Ëeænje. .

ife is a miracle which allows miracles to happen. How does a flower grow? How do planets turn? How come stars do not fall onto the Earth? Since the day of creation, human beings have contemplated the purpose of their own existence. It seems that their only mission in the universe is to discover the universe in themselves, to see themselves in others and to gain the insight that will help them shed light on the endless string of visible and invisible links between their inner and outer horizons. A procession and pilgrimage are allegories of a human life. Through numerous cultural and religious identities, they establish a link between the outside and the inside, between a moral and a religious journey during which, a pilgrim invokes the source of existence through prayer only to reach his or her own pearly pinnacle, a cove with discovered treasure in the mystery of discovering his or her own interior. They also represent challenges of faith and dedication which serve to discover the truth about oneself and to examine one’s own connection to the bright examples of those special ones who proved, by sacrificing their own lives, that one can live the ideal of divine onenesss even without material compromises. On a perpetual journey of discovery of who we are and where we are headed, prayer is often offered as the deepest, most powerful, most luminous tool of the heart. Prayer originates from our internal longing, and it works better, as wise men say, if it comes from the heart without a single word uttered, than if words are spoken, but the heart is not in it. Many essays, books, spiritual and scientific papers have been written about it, and they all are in agreement on one thing: prayer is a vibration of oneness, an adventure of opening, a respite from intellectual conclusions, a peek into the hidden interior, the pinnacle of the horizon to which one aspires and reaches through the patient alchemy of dedication and humbleness directed towards the area of cognition, where the logic of the mind is always defeated by the logic of the heart. Pilgrimages are popular in nearly all religions: Hinduism, Buddhism, Judaism, Christianity,

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and Islam. Christian pilgrimages are linked to the life of Jesus, his cruciﬁxion and resurrection. They started in the 3rd century with pilgrimage routes leading to Jerusalem and the Holy Land. Later, they became connected to the lives of apostles, saints and Christian martyrs so that in the early middle ages, big pilgrimages started to lead to Rome, holy places in Palestine and Santiago de Compostela. Many believers have directed their spiritual aspirations to well-known places where the Virgin Mary had appeared; French Lourdes, Portuguese Fatima, Mexican Guadalupe and as of the 1980’s, Meugorje, in Bosnia and Herzegovina. On the trail of his own spiritual challenge, in his novel Pilgrimage (1987), writer Paulo Coelho offers a simple and ﬂuent account of his own spiritual experiences from the famous Christian pilgrimage Way of St James. This ancient 780-kilometre long pilgrimage route requires a determination to walk for 30 days on the part of the spiritual seeker, to persevere in their dedication towards the goal. Historically, the Way of St James started in the early middle ages and led along picturesque mountain roads, forests and medieval settlements. The pilgrimage starts in French Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and ends in Spanish Galicia in Santiago de Compostela, on the Atlantic shore. It is celebrated by entering the famous Romanesque Cathedral and St. James’s Sanctuary, where a special Pilgrimage Mass is held at noon every day with the spectacle featuring 8 people who swing a huge silver thurible, dating back to 1851, from one end of the cathedral dome to the other. In his aforementioned book, Coelho says that a religious pilgrimage has always been one of the most objective ways of achieving insight. The way to correct the peccadillo is always to walk forward, adapting oneself to new situations 110

and receiving in return, all of the thousands of blessings that life generously offers to those who seek them. Pilgrimages offer the experience of getting to know oneself; other seekers are met on the journey; the freedom of the relationship with the physical world increases; a happiness greater than the mere pleasure of satisfying one’s own needs is achieved and boosted by the sentiment of one’s own existence. Afterall, it is common knowledge that what is outside of us can be sold, but what is united with our inner being cannot. These experiences lead to a simplicity that does not accentuate their worth and does not require a fee, but rather provides a spiritual expression as the ultimate achievement within the realm of where it resides. Religious customs and events, traditional crafts and popular musical heritage constitute a country’s intangible heritage. Croatia is the leader among European countries on UNESCO’s list in terms of protected intangible heritage. Only China, Japan and Korea are before it in global terms. Two major Christian processions have made it to UNESCO’s list of intangible heritage: the Fiesta of St. Blaize, which has been taking place since 1190, in honour of the patron saint of Dubrovnik and Following the Cross on the island of Hvar, a nocturnal procession whose tradition spans ﬁve centuries. Popular passion processions on Hvar, taking place during the Holy Week before Easter, constitute a rare Christian phenomenon, not only in the circle of the island part of Central Dalmatia or Croatia, but also within European and Mediterranean passion circles. In the vein of a traditional, anthropological, religious and Christian expression, the historical background of this heritage of Hvar lies in the special ex-

pression of popular divinity, which developed in the late 15th and early 16th century following a miracle that happened in the town of Hvar. Written documents prove that in early 1510, at the time of the famous uprising of the Hvar plebs against Venetian nobles, the former led by rich plebeian Matija IvaniÊ, plebeians gathered in Admiral Bevilaque’s house and vowed over a cross that they would kill all Venetian nobles. Social revolutions have always been heralded by violence, the origin of which lies in dissatisfaction, in the constraints of the place of residence resulting in the loss of the perspective of balance and the notion of the right ratios in the art of living. Only a few evenings later, on the 6th of February, to be more precise, the cruciﬁx in the admiral’s house started bleeding miraculously. With many witnesses and the church cannon present, it was immediately transported to the Hvar Cathedral, which quickly ﬁlled up with worshipers, sailors and merchants who hap-

pened to find themselves in town on that day. Already on the following day, a lot of worshipers gathered in the cathedral and participated in the first procession on the main square and thus, expressing their experience of the miracle and of a warning that God is love and not a guarantor for any kind of violence. The Blessed Cross is still safeguarded at the Hvar Cathedral. All around the town and the namesake island, there are After the Cross processions, started in honour of Christ’s passion and the Virgin Mary’s pain, together with other Passion customs, including Passion tableaus and plays, long forgotten on the island. Passion festivities on Hvar are closely connected to the local lay brotherhoods. Ever since the middle ages, laymen have formed their communities and thus, preserved numerous ways of showing their Christian feelings through prayer, social and charity work, as well as through culture, art, architecture, literature and the theatre. The theatre where the Following the Cross procession takes place is the plain on Hvar and the so-called Podgorje in its south-western part. The eye is transfixed by the exceptionally beautiful island countryside; the littoral with

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the bays of Jelsa and Vrboska, the expansive plain which stretches from Stari Grad to Jelsa, the hills and undulations around the plain. The fragrance of etheric evergreens blends with the smell of the sea and the salt in the air. The island vegetation either hides or reveals the character of the soil, while its growth depends on the ratio between fertile soil and rocks. The Christ’s Passion ritual is the central event of the procession which starts on the eve of Good Friday, exactly at 10 p.m., after evening mass, simultaneously throughout six parish churches in Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, SvirËe, Vrbanj and Vrboska. All of the six processions are led by specially-chosen cross-bearers who walk barefoot or in woollen socks and carry a cross, covered in a transparent black veil, and weighing 15 kilos. Being a cross-bearer is a special honour, which reﬂects strong devotion and reveals the gratitude of the person and his family. The selection is made years in advance, and there is often a waiting list. The cross-bearer must have an assistant or deputy who will help him carry the cross if he becomes too exhausted. There are also assistants with big baroque candelabra and lanterns who walk next to the cross-bearer throughout the journey and kneel with him at every station; two main singers, known as

possible obstacles on the procession’s 20-kilometre long nocturnal route. The assistants wear the white tunics of the brotherhood. They are joined by numerous worshipers and guests who walk behind them. As they pass through all the six places, the procession participants show their devotion at each of the parish churches where the local priest blesses the cross-bearer and encourages him to proceed on his journey, while the kontadurs sing the Lamentation of the Virgin Mary. The processions then continue making their way to the next village and the next church. Their paths never cross during the night. The circular movement through all of the villages is carefully coordinated. All the worshipers in the processions visit each of the villages, walking through olive groves, along village paths and through villages, and they return home around 7 o’clock in the morning. In its present form, the Following the Cross procession lasts about eight hours. At every place, a particularly festive event is the sendoff of the local procession, attended by a large number of people, and the welcome or return of the procession at sunrise. This always takes place on the square, in front of the parish church or close to it. Of the places comprised in the Following the Cross procession, Jelsa has the most inhabitants, which is why its procession is the largest. Situated on a small bay with pine forests and other Mediterranean vegetation growing at its edges, Jelsa captivates the eye with its beauty and simplicity. Since the very beginning, the religious life of this picturesque place has been very intense and ﬁlled with devotion to liturgical and popular pieties. At sunrise, on return to the place of origin, only Jelsa’s procession runs the last 100 metres, before the cross is

handed back to the parish priest who waits for it kneeling in the central square. This dramatic act always strikes a deep chord with everybody present there. Processions and pilgrimages are acts of surrender. One story shows how the feeling of devotion and self-depreciation can be achieved. Story has it that a husband and wife went on a tour of some holy places with a ﬁrm intent that, once and for all, they would devote themselves to spiritual life. As they were walking on the pilgrims’ trail, the husband, who was a few steps ahead of his wife, spotted a large diamond on the ground. He immediately shoved it under the sand and leaves on the trail, wishing to spare his wife the temptation of seeing the diamond and coveting it, because that, in his mind, would mean that they would forever renounce spirituality and continue to be tied to a secular life. No sooner had he hidden the diamond under the sand when the woman came closer and asked him what he was up to. He started mincing his words and his wife became suspicious. She poked the sand and spotted the diamond. Having understood his intention, she said: Why, on such a spiritual journey, can you still tell the difference between diamonds and sand? Eternal truth always resides in the ideal of oneness. Once grasped, it is found in the sphere of being and not having. All those who aspire to that, rise above the moral restrictions of everyday life because the solution to the mystery of one’s personality, ultimately surpasses all other needs. At the moment when the need for goodness becomes primary, the world of duality melts into oneness. Processions and pilgrimages are reﬂections of such a need, of such a moment, of such longing. W

kontadurs, and several respondents sing the Lamentation of the Virgin Mary, a 15th century octosyllabic verse about the passion of Christ, which is also the main content of the procession. In his book, Following the Cross on the Island of Hvar, father Bernardin ©kunca says: There was a time when all the verses of the Lamentation were sung. Nowadays, only a few verses are sung − when the procession is closing and then, at every station. This octosyllabic text about the Passion of Christ, which is Hvar’s version of the lamentation, belongs to the type that was widespread along the entire Croatian littoral, from Kotor and Budva to Rab, Osor and Rijeka. As of recently, it has been conﬁrmed that a variation of it was once known to have existed on Cres. At the head of the procession, there is a batistrad, an assistant who holds a specially-crafted stick in his hand and alerts the cross-bearer to CROATIA AIRLINES

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Vijetnam ima izvrsne uvjete za razvoj turizma. Duga obala, klima i krajolik, bogata baπtina i osobita gastronomija koja, uz kinesko, francusko i domaÊe umijeÊe, ne moæe a ne biti svjetski vrh. Osim toga tu su ljubazni i marljivi ljudi i sve bolja povezanost zemlje sa svijetom. Proπle je godine zemlju posjetilo oko 7,500.000 turista. ZaostajuÊi joπ za etabliranim turistiËkim odredištima poput Tajlanda i Malezije, taj broj kontinuirano raste. Vietnam boasts excellent conditions for tourism development − a long coastline, a good climate, a diverse landscape, a rich cultural heritage, and an excellent, globally renowned gastronomy, including Chinese, French and local cuisines. Apart from that, the Vietnamese are kind and hard-working people, while their country is becoming increasingly better connected to the rest of the world. Last year, Vietnam was visited by 7.5 million people and, while it is still lagging behind other well-established tourist destinations, such as Thailand and Malaysia, this number is on a constant rise.

rugoga srpnja 1976. pobjednici Drugoga indokineskog rata proglasili su ujedinjenu SocijalistiËku Republiku Vijetnam, preimenovavπi njegov najveÊi grad, Saigon, u Ho-Chi-Minh. Dogaaju je prethodila sveËana inauguracija na tiskovnoj konferenciji u hotelu Rex, mjestu koje je tijekom cijeloga rata sluæilo kao medijski stoæer AmeriËke vojne komande. Pogled s terase hotela, odakle su novinari i fotoreporteri, uz burbon i marihuanu, Ëesto ubijali dosadu, zajedno je s podijeljenom zemljom nestajao u jari gradske sparine. Danas se s te iste terase, preko istoga kruænog toka i bulevara Nguyen Hue, razlama slika tornjeva i poslovnih zgrada, simbola vijetnamskoga gospodarskog uspjeha. Tko ovamo navraÊa ËeπÊe, obiËno ostaje zapanjen brzinom kojom pojedine Ëetvrti mijenjaju svoje lice.

Moæda nemam pravo, no Ëini mi se da u zapadnjaËkom imaginariju o Vijetnamu, uz konusne πeπire i riæina polja, joπ prevladavaju Pulitzerom nagraivani dokumenti vremena iz πezdesetih i sedamdesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa. Htjeli-ne htjeli, kada se govori o Vijetnamu, rat je zacijelo njegov nezaobilazan pridjevak koji uvijek negdje izroni na povrπinu. On je u Vijetnamu trajao dugo i ostavio mnoge rane. Mir nije nastupio odmah 30. travnja 1975. kada su zdruæene trupe Vijetnamske narodne armije i Vijetkonga uπle u Saigon. Indokina je tijekom sedamdesetih bila joπ uzavrelo mjesto, a isto desetljeÊe zavrπava kratkim, ali æestokim Vijetnamsko-kineskim ratom. I dok vlasti nove socijalistiËke republike rigidnim planskim gospodarenjem bezuspjeπno pokuπavaju zemlju uspraviti na noge, a bujice izbjeglica, poznatih kao ljudi

Tekst/By Saša PjaniÊ Fotograﬁje/photos Saša PjaniÊ i/and Danijel Pepelnjak

Ljudsko je biÊe kao televizor s milijunima kanala. UkljuËimo li Budhu, mi smo Budha. UkljuËimo li tugu, mi smo tuga. Thich Nhat Hanh A human being is like a television set with millions of channels. If we turn the Buddha on, we are the Buddha. If we turn sadness on, we really are the sadness. Thich Nhat Hanh CROATIA AIRLINES

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iz Ëamaca, preko mora oËajniËki traæe bolji æivot, predodæbe o toj nepoznatoj zemlji, do ostatka svijeta stiæu uglavnom kroz holivudske blockbustere. Lovac na jelene, Apokalipsa i Vod smrti æanju Oscare, govoreÊi o minulom ratu s filipinskih plaæa ili iz tada joπ neiskrËenih tajlandskih praπuma. VeÊi dio osamdesetih Vijetnam je bio zatvorena i izolirana zemlja, zaboravljen na kraju i od svoga najvjernijeg saveznika, Sovjetskog Saveza, koji je tada veÊ uvelike grcao u vlastitom beznau. A onda, negdje u isto vrijeme kad i Perestrojka, na red dolazi gospodarska reforma. Grad koji je preuzeo ime legendarnoga revolucionarnoga voe, danas je najveÊe poslovno srediπte Vijetnama. Pa ipak, u kolokvijalnom govoru prevladava joπ stari naziv i sve πto bi moglo biti s njime u vezi: Saigon Beer, Saigon Hotel, Saigon Cosmetic. »ak i vozni red vlakova, najËeπÊe ispisan kredom na ploËi, njeguje staru nomenklaturu. Rijeka Saigon krivuda polako gradom, noseÊi mulj i kontejnerske teglenice u Juæno kinesko more. Na sjeveru sasvim druga rijeka utjeËe u isto more. Vode Crvene rijeke, ukroÊene nasipima i branama, natapaju nepregledna riæina polja, uleknuta u vapnenaËki krπ. To je povijesna kolijevka Vijetnama. Naziv Viet potjeËe joπ iz drevne proπlosti, a od 3. stoljeÊa prije Krista oznaËava narod razliËit od Han Kineza, koji æivi na sjeveru danaπnjeg Vijetnama. UnatoË neumoljivome povijesnom rivalstvu s moÊnim sjevernim susjedom, koje u odreenom obliku postoji i danas, Vijetnam kulturni identitet velikim dijelom duguje upravo kineskim vrijednostima. Ne vidi se to samo u arhitekturi hramova i palaËa. Briga za druπtveni sklad i posveÊenost obitelji kao temeljni obrasci etiËkog djelovanja, ideal je preuzet iz konfucijanizma. DjelomiËna sinifikacija bio je oËito proces pragmatiËnog prihvaÊanja vrijednosti onih koji su gotovo cijelo tisuÊljeÊe dominirali zemljom. No Vijetnamci nikada nisu postali Kinezi. Njihova mitologija puna je junaka koji se bore protiv osvajaËa sa sjevera. Pomalo nalik na mit o kralju Arturu ili pak filmsku sagu o prstenu moÊi, postoji priËa o Ëudotvornome maËu koji su bogovi gurnuli u ruke legendarnom LeLoju. Uz pomoÊ dara i nadnaravne moÊi, hrabri plemiÊ uspijeva poraziti vojsku kineskog cara i, proglasivπi se vladarem, vratiti prijestolje izgubljenog kraljevstva. No sada je postojala opasnost da se maË zloupotrijebi. I zato su se opet pobrinuli bogovi. Jednom prilikom, kada je novi vladar plovio Ëamcem po jezeru, pred njega je izronila velika kornjaËa i otela mu moÊno oruæje. Vratila ga je onima koji su ga i iskovali. Jezero otad nosi ime Hoan Kiem i danas se nalazi u srediπtu glavnoga grada Vijetnama. Premda dræi primat 114

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mjesta s najviπim neboderom u zemlji, Hanoi je zapravo mnogo manje grad suvremenih urbanih veduta od svoga juænog konkurenta, barem πto se srediπnjih gradskih Ëetvrti tiËe. On je definitivno grad jezera, od kojih su mnoga vrela domoljubnih priËa. Od mudre kornjaËe i Ëudotvornog maËa do krhotina bombardera B-52. Najstarija vijetnamska prijestolnica Thang Long i srediπte kolonijalne uprave Francuske Indokine, nagrada je za probirljivog πetaËa koji satima rado luta po proπlosti. Mauzolej Ujaka Hoa, naËinjen po uzoru na onaj Lenjinov u Moskvi, za poËetak moæda neÊe odavati dovoljno vremenske patine, no nesumnjivo je dobar orijentir. Kao i zgrada Narodne skupπtine, nalaze se na Trgu Ba –inh, u neposrednoj blizini stare citadele. Povijesno ishodiπte iz 11. stoljeÊa bilo je neka vrsta Zabranjenoga grada gdje su vladari, konkubine i vojna elita æivjeli odvojeno od svojih podanika. NajznaËajnija graevina iz ranog razdoblja kraljevstva svakako je Hram literature. Besprijekorno oËuvan konfucijanski hram ujedno je i najstarije sveuËiliπte u zemlji, podignuto davne 1070. g. Nakon krepke i tople juhe Phô u nekoj od bezbroj pokretnih kuhinja, meu zahihotanom mlaarijom na malim plastiËnim stolicama, nastavljam lagani ﬂânerie po gradu. Vjeπtina prelaæenja ceste, preplavljene bujicom skutera i motocikala, pomalo veÊ postaje rutina. Stara Ëetvrt, gdje se nekoÊ æivot odvijao u sjeni dvora, nudi sve; vrevu, uzbuenje, cjenkanje, jutarnje budnice s razglasa, kolektivni Tai Chi Chuan, stalni zapuh benzina, svjetske modne marke, laæne i originalne, vrhunske restorane, hotele, male obiteljske penzione, uliËne zalogajnice, usputno prijateljstvo i najjeftinije pivo na svijetu. Na mjestu koje se popularno zove Bia Hoi Junction, za 10 centa dobit Êete 2 dl izvrsnoga Ëeπkog lagera. Limit su trenutaËno zalihe baËvi ili, ËeπÊe, osobni kapacitet. Ta priËa s pivom kao uostalom i one s baguetteima, govedinom ili kavom uvijek me podsjete da je gastronomija najizravnije mjesto proæimanja razliËitih kulturnih perspektiva. Kolonijalni eklekticizam Francuske Ëetvrti slijedi sliËnu maksimu. Vile, muzeji, opera, predsjedniËka palaËa, katedrala, skladno uklopljeni u bujan gradski drvored, tipiËno su hanojski. Posljednji dan provodim u legendarnom hotelu Metropole. Sjene slavnih gostiju poput Charlieja Chaplina, Grahama Greena ili braËnog para Jolie-Pitt licitiraju vrijednost brokatnih popluna. Danas pripada grupaciji Soﬁtel Luxury Hotels i usto πto je najluksuzniji hotel u Vijetnamu, rangiran je u svjetski vrh. Vlakom nastavljam prema jugu. Kada se kaæe da je æeljezniËka infrastruktura francuska, ne misli se na TGV vlakove, nego na njezinu 118

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zastarjelost. Pa ipak vlakovi, premda spori, veoma su privlaËni i, πto je moæda joπ vaænije, udobni i jeftini. Na uskom podvozju koje odgovara πirini tramvajske pruge u Zagrebu, kockasti vagoni doimaju se kao da lebde u zraku. PutniËki odjeljci, osobito oni u spavaÊim kolima, uredni su i Ëisti, a u njima, s vrlo kvalitetnog razglasa, svira nenametljiva glazba. U takvome pokretnom ambijentu ni dvodnevni put do Ho-Chi-Minha ne Ëini se kao kazna. Ali neÊete valjda odjednom prevaliti taj cijeli put? Prva sljedeÊa postaja jest grad Hue. UpravljaËka moÊ sa sjevera bila je izrazito centralizirana preko vladara i ËinovniËke birokracije. Kako se kraljevstvo πirilo na jug, u zemlje Champa i Kmera, moÊ je Hanoja slabjela, πto bi nerijetko uzrokovalo pobune vlastohlepnih vazala. S vremenom te su razmirice nastojali iskoristiti Europljani, pristajuÊi na stranu onih Ëija bi im naklonost, Ëesto u zamjenu za oruæje, jamËila bolji probitak. U 19. stoljeÊu tome su se suprotstavili vladari iz dinastije Nguyen i ponovno ujedinili zemlju. Vladali su iz novoga glavnoga grada, Huea. Bio je to posljednji procvat imperijalnog Vijetnama prije nego πto Êe do kraja stoljeÊa potpasti pod francusku vlast. Dinastija Nguyen svoj je nebeski mandat po mnogo Ëemu uËinila veliËanstvenim, dajuÊi mu autentiËan vijetnamski peËat. Prostrana fortifikacija s brojnim palaËama, tlocrta u skladu s filozofijom feng shuija, jedinstvena je graevina takve vrste u zemlji. Po njezinim vrtovima, dvoranama i zidinama koje se uzdiæu uz Parfemsku rijeku, moæe se hodati satima. Uska svilena tunika Ao dai, dobro poznati amblem profinjene, vijetnamske æenstvenosti, nastala je od odora dvorskih dama. Kaæu da je to odjeÊa koja pokriva sve, a ne skriva niπta. Glazba kraljevskog dvora Nha Nhac uvrπtena je na popis nematerijalne svjetske baπtine. I ime Viet Nam skovano je zapravo na dvoru u Hueu i u upotrebi je od 1802. g. Rafinman lokalne kuhinje, kombinacijom namirnica, zaËina i trava takoer odraæava aristokratsku finoÊu. Bun bo Hue raskoπna je juπna delicija od mesnog temeljca, ribljeg umaka, govee pleÊke ili buta, mirodija, svjeæeg bilja i riæinih rezanaca. Kao yin-yang nadopuna raznovrsnom jelovniku grada, puËka je, izrazito vegetarijanska kuhinja. Jer u Vijetnamu upravo je Hue, grad brojnih pagoda, srediπte budizma. Je li doπao iz Indije ili Kine, budizam je u obliku Mahayana ovdje prisutan veÊ gotovo dva tisuÊljeÊa. Moglo bi se reÊi da je konfucionizam oblikovao dræavniËku elitu vladara i njegovih mandarina, a budizam, s dodatkom taoizma, πtovanjem predaka i vijetnamskih drevnih vjerovanja, najËeπÊe je bila religija obiËnih ljudi. Tijekom rata i u poraÊu, mnogi vijetnamski budisti zalagali su CROATIA AIRLINES

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se za pomirbu ideoloπkih suprotnosti sjevera i juga. Vjerojatno najpoznatiji æivuÊi vijetnamski redovnik, porijeklom iz Huea, Thic Nhat Hanu, dao je toj misiji neizmjeran obol. SljedeÊe na mom itineraru provincija je Quang Nam. ToËno na pola puta izmeu Hanoja i Ho-Chi-Minha. Poznata je po ostacima prijestolnice Champa, drevnog hindu kraljevstva koje je do kraja 15. stoljeÊa potpalo pod vijetnamsku vlast. I Ëarobnom Hoi Anu, gradu na rijeci Thu Bôn. Poznata je joπ i po Mramornim planinama, peÊinskim hramovima, Kineskoj plaæi, malim otoËiÊima i rezancima Mi Qunag sa πkampima i raËiÊima. Kada sam se tih nekoliko sati autobusom vozio uz more, Ëinilo mi se kako svakih 15 minuta prelazimo preko nekog uπÊa. Vijetnam je zemlja izduæenog oblika. Srediπte, kojim upravo prolazim, nalik je na usku prevlaku gdje udaljenost od susjednog Laosa do mora iznosi jedva pedesetak kilometara. Moj put od sjevera do juga 30 puta je duæi. Anamski kordiljeri odvajaju uski priobalni pojas od brdovite unutraπnjosti Indokine. Na njemu se monsunske bujice s planina spajaju u πiroka rijeËna korita i ljevkasta uπÊa. Vijetnam je zemlja vode. U velikim deltama Mekonga i Crvene rijeke cvale su civilizacije bronËanog doba utemeljene na uzgoju riæe i ribarstvu. I danas viπe od polovice stanovniπtva æivi od proizvodnje hrane. Vijetnam je jedan od najveÊih izvoznika riæe, papra, kave, indijskih oraπËiÊa i plodova mora. Stiæem u Hoi An, grad æutih proËelja i kupastih crjepova, Ëije je staro trgovaËko srediπte nepromijenjeno veÊ viπe od tri stoljeÊa. LuËka obala æivahna je kao i nekada, samo πto uz gatove ne pristaju jedrenjaci, nego motorne skele kojima ljudi iz πirokog estuarija dolaze u grad. Oduvijek je Hoi An bio kozmopolitsko srediπte. U 16. i 17. stoljeÊu ovdje su postojale bogate luËke zajednice kineskih, japanskih i portugalskih trgovaca. Poslije su doπli i francuski misionari. Bila su to πirom otvorena vrata inaËe zatvorenog svijeta, koja Êe mu s vremenom zapeËatiti sudbinu. No ima joπ neπto u vezi s ovim gradom. Potkraj svake godine, u doba tajfuna i visokih plima, vode Thu Bôna rastu, izlijevajuÊi se po Ëitavom uπÊu. U gradu vlada ozraËje elementarne nepogode i blagdanske euforije, objaπnjava mi jedan ugostitelj, pokazujuÊi rekordne razine koje je sam ucrtao na zidove restorana. Gotovo dva mjeseca ljudi æive u Ëamcima i u potkrovlju, no to je ovdje normalno. Neizbjeæna stihija jaËa duh zajedniπtva. Æivot kao i rijeka, uvijek ide dalje. I ja idem dalje. Rano u zoru dolazim u Na Trang. Autobus me iskrcava u središtu grada tik do plaæe. Svjeæina s mora raspiruje neispavanost. A plaæa, prava Copacabana. Dug pjeπËani æal, palme i πum valova. I svugdje 120

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uokolo planine. Mnoπtvo ljudi na obalnoj promenadi u svakodnevnom jutarnjem ritualu. Vjeæbanje na otvorenom. Ima tu svega; i Tai Chija i badmintona i sklekova. Od pomodne mlaarije æeljne pokazivanja do savitljivih bakica kojima nagaam dob. Vijetnamci su dugovjeËni i vitalni ljudi. Na Trang je grad hotela, sa æivopisnom ribarskom lukom i otoËnim arhipelagom, ni prevelik ni premalen, planinama izoliran od nepovoljnog vremena iz unutraπnjosti. Idealno mjesto za mondeno turistiËko odrediπte. Za dana plaæe se ispune gostima iz hotela. Dijeli ih samo cesta. Po noÊi oæive restorani i barovi po uliËicama uvuËenim u grad. Godine 2008. ovdje je odræano i ﬁnale izbora za Miss Universe. Vijetnam ima izvrsne uvjete za razvoj turizma. Duga obala, klima i krajolik, bogata baπtina i osobita gastronomija koja, uz kinesko, francusko i domaÊe umijeÊe, ne moæe a ne biti svjetski vrh. Osim toga tu su ljubazni i marljivi ljudi i sve bolja povezanost zemlje sa svijetom. Proπle je godine zemlju posjetilo oko 7,500.000 turista. ZaostajuÊi joπ za etabliranim turistiËkim odredištima poput Tajlanda i Malezije, taj broj kontinuirano raste. Popodnevna sijesta uvrijeæeno je pravilo za cijelu Indokinu, pa ni radiπni Vijetnamci nisu iznimka. Kada pritegne omara, zaleÊi se moæe praktiËki bilogdje; na klupu, tezgu, motocikl. U parku pod stablom ili kabanicom. Na jugu u delti Mekonga toplo je cijele godine. Zrak, i onda kada ne pada kiπa, priliËno je zasiÊen vlagom pa teπko da bismo ikada mogli govoriti o suhom vremenu. Kiπna polovica godine traje od svibnja do listopada. Ako na sve to dodate joπ i kulise od asfalta, guæve i nebodera, stigli ste u Ho-Chi-Minh. Nekad kmerska luka na rubovima velikog uπÊa, relativno je novi grad. Vijetnamci ga zaposjedaju tek u 17. stoljeÊu, no najstarije zgrade i ime Saigon potjeËu iz razdoblja francuske uprave, nakon 1859. g. Æivopisna trænica Bên Thành datira iz 1870. g. Nakon Francusko-vijetnamskog rata, Saigon 1954. postaje jedan od dva glavna grada podijeljenog Vijetnama. SpeciﬁËan i drugaËiji, suviπno je isticati da je s Hanojem uvijek bio u opreci. Najbolje se to pokazalo tijekom posljednjeg rata. Danas, toËno 40 godina nakon ujedinjenja, mnogo mladih Vijetnamaca sreÊu nastoji potraæiti baπ na ovome mjestu. TreÊina svih stranih ulaganja slijeva se u HoChi-Minhu, koji u BDP-u Vijetnama sudjeluje Ëak s 20 posto. Gospodarske reforme koje su se poËele provoditi u poratnom Vijetnamu nisu tekle bez teπkoÊa. Sovjetski Savez trebao je nestati, a partijsko kormilo preuzeti neki novi ljudi da pragmatiËnost pobijedi kruti dogmatizam. Osim toga, ponovno se uvrglo na staroga susjeda koji sada viπe nije gledao je li maËka crna ili bijela, nego lovi li miπeve. Na

tradicionalnu vijetnamsku marljivost i sklonost da se pojedinac podredi zajednici moglo se uvijek raËunati pa je tako potkraj osamdesetih pronaena i formula koja je napokon upalila. SocijalistiËki orijentirana træiπna ekonomija moæda je malo veÊ okoπtala deﬁnicija onoga πto viπe od dva desetljeÊa biljeæi impresivne rezultate. Od gladne zemlje do velikog izvoznika hrane proπlo je tek neπto viπe od desetljeÊa. Izravna strana ulaganja potaknula su industriju. ObuÊa i odjeÊa mnogih svjetskih brendova proizvodi se u Vijetnamu, a u zamahu su i usluæni sektor, turizam i IT industrija. Tu su joπ i dragocjene rezerve nafte u Juænome kineskome moru. Siromaπtvo je znaËajno reducirano, a populacija koja se bliæi brojci od 90 milijuna i upadljivo je mlada, ostavlja dojam vitalnosti i poleta. »etiri milijuna Vijetnamaca danas æivi u dijaspori, od Sjedinjenih Dræava, Australije i Tajvana do Francuske, NjemaËke, »eπke i Rusije. Da bi se shvatilo sustav koji je u Vijetnamu oËito uspjeπan, moæda treba zagrepsti dublje ispod povrπine ideoloπkoga, hladnoratovskog etiketiranja i odgovore potraæiti u tradiciji. Teπko je naÊi simbol koji bi svu raznolikost Vijetnama stavio pod jednu kapu. Æuta zvijezda petokraka ili moæda praznik Tet i πtovanje predaka? Mlada i mnogoljudna, zemlja raznolikosti i promjena. O mnogo vam Ëemu nisam govorio: o Zaljevu Ha Long, Delti Mekonga, noÊnom æivotu Da Nanga, kuÊi Marguerite Duras, Sapi i planinskim utoËiπtima. Na mnogo mjesta nisam joπ bio. Svakako, rado Êu ponovno tamo. I neÊe me uopÊe zaËuditi budem li taj isti put prevalio u nekom super brzom vlaku Shinkansen. .

n July 2nd 1976, the victors of the Second Indochina War declared a united Socialist Republic of Vietnam, and renamed its largest city − Saigon, into Ho Chi Minh City. This event was preceded by an inauguration ceremony at a press conference at the Rex Hotel − a place which served as the media headquarters for American military command throughout the war. Much like the divided country, the view from the hotel terrace, where journalists and photographers had often killed time by drinking bourbon and doing marijuana, was fading in the sweltering heat of the city. Nowadays, the view from the same terrace features the same roundabout, but the Nguyen Hue Boulevard is littered with business towers − the symbols of Vietnamese economic prosperity. Frequent visitors are often amazed at just how rapidly some neighbourhoods have been changing. I may be wrong, but it seems to me that the Western perception of Vietnam, including conical hats and rice-paddies, is still prevalently CROATIA AIRLINES

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based on the Pulitzer Prize winning material from the 1960’s and 1970’s. Whether we like it or not, when speaking of Vietnam, the topic of war will surface sooner or later. The war in Vietnam was long, and it has left many wounds. Peace did not take hold immediately after April 30th 1975, when the allied troops of the Vietnam People’s Army and Viet Cong entered Saigon. Throughout the 1970’s, Indochina was still a volatile place, and the decade ended with a short but intense Sino-Vietnamese War. While the government of the new Socialist Republic was unsuccessfully attempting to put the nation back on its feet through the implementation of rigid economic policies, and while torrents of refugees, known as the boat people, were desperately seeking a better life overseas, the impressions of this unknown land, formed by the rest of the world, were based mostly on Hollywood blockbusters. The Deer Hunter, Apocalypse Now and Platoon drew Oscars, conveying stories of the bygone war from the beaches in the Philippines or the then, still existing, Thai jungles. Throughout the 1980’s, Vietnam was a closed and isolated country, forgotten in the end even by its most trusted ally − the Soviet Union, which was by then already knee deep in its own hopelessness. Economic reforms occurred around the same time as the Perestroika. The city which bears the name of the legendary, revolutionary leader is, nowadays, the largest business centre in Vietnam. Regardless, the old name prevails in colloquial speech as well as in many brands: Saigon Beer, the Saigon Hotel, and Saigon Cosmetics. Even the train timetables, often written out by hand on a blackboard, feature the old name. The Saigon River slowly meanders through the city, carrying muck and container barges down towards the South China Sea. Up north, another river ﬂows into the same sea. The waters of the Red River, tamed by levees and dams, irrigate the endless rice paddies in the limestone karst. This is the historic cradle of Vietnam. The name Viet originates from historical times. Since the 3rd century B.C. it has been used to describe people different to the Han Chinese, who live in modern-day northern Vietnam. Despite the relentless historic rivalry with its mighty northern neighbour, which still exists to this day, Vietnam’s cultural identity is largely based on Chinese values. This is evident in the architecture of temples and palaces, but the concern for social harmony and dedication to the family as basic examples of ethical behaviour are ideals adopted from Confucianism. Clearly, partial sinicization occurred as a result of the process of pragmatic acceptance of these values imposed by a culture that 124

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dominated the land for a thousand years. The Vietnamese, however, have never become Chinese. Their mythology is full of heroes who fought the conquerors from the north. Much like the myth of King Arthur or the film-saga about the mighty ring, there is a story about a miraculous sword bestowed by the gods to the legendary Le Loi. With the help of this gift, and its supernatural powers, the brave nobleman managed to defeat the armies of the Chinese emperor, and declaring himself ruler, reclaimed the throne of the lost kingdom. However, there was a danger of the sword’s misuse so, once again, the gods stepped in. On one occasion, while the new ruler was sailing along a lake, a large turtle intercepted him and took the mighty weapon away from him, returning it to those who had forged it. Since then, the lake has been named Hoan Kiem, and today, it is located in the centre of Vietnam’s capital. Although it boasts the tallest skyscraper in the country, Hanoi is much less a city of modern, urban vistas than its southern counterpart. It is definitely a city of lakes, many of which are sources of patriotic stories, ranging from the wise turtle and the miraculous sword, to the remains of a B-52 bomber. The oldest Vietnamese capital, Thang Long, the nerve centre of the colonial administration of French Indochina, is a prize for picky walkers who enjoy spending hours wandering through the past. The Mausoleum of Uncle Ho, based on Lenin’s Mausoleum in Moscow, might not feature enough of a patina to begin with, but it is undoubtedly an excellent orientation point, as well as the building of the National Assembly, both of which are located on the Ba –inh Square, in the vicinity of the old citadel. This historic point of origin was a Forbidden City of sorts, where the rulers, the concubines and the military elite lived, separated from their minions. The most significant building from the early period of the kingdom is, undoubtedly, the Temple of Literature. The flawlessly preserved Confucian temple is also the oldest university in the country, established in 1070. After a warm and invigorating bowl of Phô soup from one of the countless mobile kitchens, I continued my flanerie across the city, making my way through laughing youngsters sitting on small plastic chairs. Crossing the roads crammed with scooters and motorcycles has already become routine and a skill I have managed to hone. The old neighbourhood, once under the rule of the monarch, offers it all: the crowds, the excitement, the bartering, morning reveilles over the loudspeakers, communal Tai Chi Chuan exercises, the permanent whiff of gasoline, world famous fashion brands − fake and original, exquisite restaurants, hotels,

small family owned housing, street eateries, casual friendships and the cheapest beer in the world. At the popular Bia Hoi Junction, one can drink 2 dl of excellent Czech lager for only 10 cents. Here, the customer is only limited by the amount of keg stock available or, what is more frequently the case, by his or her own consumption capacity. The story with beer, as well as the baguettes, beef and coffee, always reminds me that gastronomy is an area where different cultural perspectives intertwine. The same can be said for the colonial eclecticism of the French Quarter. Numerous villas, museums, the opera and the Presidential Palace, blend perfectly into a row of lush trees, quite typical of Hanoi. I spent my last day there at the legendary Metropole Hotel, where sthe lingering presence of famous guests, such as Charlie Chaplin, Graham Greene or Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, increase the value of the brocade bedding. Nowadays, part of the Sofitel Luxury Hotels group, it is the most luxurious hotel in Vietnam and one of the best hotels in the world. I continued my journey south by train. When I say that the railway infrastructure is French, I am not referring to high-speed TGV trains, but to the fact that the railway is very old. However, as slow as it may be, local trains are very charming, and even more importantly, comfortable and cheap. The tracks are of average tramway width, so the boxy carriages look like they are levitating in the air. Passenger compartments, especially those in the sleeping carriages, are very tidy and clean, and feature pleasant, unobtrusive music through a quality sound system. Such a mobile environment certainly makes the two-day trip to Ho Chi Minh City feel like anything, but punishment. Still, making an entire trip in one sitting?! Certainly not! The first stop on the way was Hue City. The governing power from the north was very centralized, through the ruler and the bureaucracy. As the kingdom expanded towards the south, into the territories of Champa and the Khmers, the power of Hanoi weakened, which often resulted in mutinies by the power-greedy vassals. In time, Europeans often tried to use these disagreements to their benefit. They sided with the party who would guarantee them greater prosperity, especially when it came to trading weapons. In the 19th century, the rulers of the Nguyen Dynasty opposed that and reunited the land. They ruled from the new capital city of Hue. It was the last surge of imperial Vietnam before it fell under French rule by the end of the century. In many ways, the Nguyen Dynasty made its heavenly mandate a glorious one, giving it an authentic Vietnamese seal. A spacious CROATIA AIRLINES

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fortification, made up of numerous palaces, constructed with the Feng Shui philosophy in mind, is a one-of-a-kind structure in Vietnam. Its gardens, halls and walls that rise up along the Perfume River, are conducive to long walks. A narrow, silk tunic, Ao dai, is a well-known symbol of elegant Vietnamese femininity, originating in the dress styles of aristocratic ladies. They say that these clothes cover everything and yet, hide nothing. Aristocratic Nha Nhac music was included on the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage. The name Viet Nam was in fact coined in Hue, and it has been in use since 1802. With its combination of ingredients, spices and herbs, local cuisine also reflects an aristocratic refinement. Bun bo Hue is a delicious soup made out of meat stock, including fish sauce and beef, as well as various spices, fresh herbs and rice noodles. As diverse as the menus around the city are, the local cuisine is exclusively vegetarian. Hue, a city of numerous pagodas, is the centre of Buddhism in Vietnam. It is unclear whether it arrived from India or China, but Mahayana Buddhism has been present in the region for almost 2000 years. One could say that Confucianism has shaped the stately ruling elite and their mandarins, while Buddhism, and some Taoism, through the honouring of ancestors and ancient Vietnamese beliefs, has most often been the religion of ordinary people. During the war, and in the post-war period, many Vietnamese Buddhists advocated the reconciliation of the ideological differences of the north and the south. Thic Nhat Han, likely the most well-known living Vietnamese monk, originating from Hue City, contributed greatly to the cause. Next on my itinerary was the Province of Quang Nam, exactly halfway between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. It is known for its remains of the capital city of Champa, an ancient Hindu kingdom which fell under Vietnamese rule by the end of the 15th century. The province is also known for the magical city of Hoi Anu that lies on the Thu Bôn River, as well as for its Marble Mountains, cave temples, the famous China Beach, many small islands, and Mi Qunag noodles with shrimps and crabs. As I rode on a bus along the coast for several hours, it seemed to me as if we were crossing an estuary every fifteen minutes. Vietnam is a country that takes on an elongated shape. The middle is like a narrow strip where the distance between neighbouring Laos and the sea is barely 50 kilometres. My journey, travelling south from the north, was 30 times longer. The Annamite Range separates the narrow coastal strip from the mountainous interior of Indochina. This is where monsoon torrents from the mountains 126

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merge into wide river beds and funnel shaped estuaries. Vietnam is a land of water. Civilizations of the Bronze Age, whose livelihood depended on the cultivation of rice and fishing, flourished in the deltas of the Mekong and Red River. Even today, more than half of the population survives on producing food. Vietnam is one of the world’s biggest exporters of rice, pepper, coffee, cashew nuts and sea food. I arrived in Hoi An, a city of yellow facades and cone-shaped tiles on the roof, whose old market has remained unchanged for more than 3 centuries. The harbour shore is as bustling as it ever was, but it isn’t sailboats that dock in the port. Instead, it is motor barges that bring people from an expansive estuary into the city. Hoi An has always been a cosmopolitan centre. In the 16th and 17th centuries, it was home to rich societies comprised of Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese merchants, followed by French missionaries. The city was an open door to an otherwise closed world, which would seal its destiny over time. There is something else about this city, however… At the end of each year, in the times of typhoons and high tide, the waters of Thu Bôna rise and overflow the entire estuary. There is an atmosphere of a natural disaster combined with holiday euphoria in town, explains one restauranteur, showing me the record levels he personally drew out on the restaurant walls. For almost two months, people can live out on boats and in attics, but that is normal here. The unavoidable flood strengthens the community spirit. Life, just like the river, flows on. At early dawn, I arrived in Na Trang. The bus dropped me off in the city centre, right by the beach. The freshness of the sea dispersed my sleepiness. The beach is very much like Copacabana, featuring a long sandy shore, palm trees and the sounds of breaking waves.

All around are mountains. Numerous people indulge in their morning rituals along the entire promenade, practicing Tai Chi in the open air, playing badminton or doing pushups. The crowd is mixed, ranging from fashionable kids showing off, to ﬂexible grannies whose age I can only assume. The Vietnamese are long-living and vital people. Na Trang is a city of hotels, with a picturesque ﬁshing harbour and an archipelago of islands. It is neither too large, nor too small, and it is shielded from bad weather from the inland by mountains. It

Višnja maraska autohtona je kultura višnje, karakterističnog tamno crvenog ploda, izražene aromatičnosti i slatko kiselog okusa koja najbolje uspjeva na uskom području Dalmatinske obale, od Zadra do Makarske.

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is an ideal, classy tourist resort. During the day, beaches are crowded by guests from the hotels located just across the road. Restaurants and bars tucked away in the city streets also come to life at night. In 2008, the city was host to the Miss Universe Pageant ﬁnals. Vietnam boasts excellent conditions for tourism development − a long coastline, a good climate, a diverse landscape, a rich cultural heritage, and an excellent, globally renowned gastronomy, including Chinese, French and local cuisines. Apart from that, the Vietnamese are kind and

Marasca cherry is an autochthonous sort of cherry, with fruit dark red in colour, characteristic aroma and sweet and sour flavor, which best thrives on a narrow area along the Dalmatian coast, from Zadar to Makarska.

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hard-working people, while their country is becoming increasingly better connected to the rest of the world. Last year, Vietnam was visited by 7.5 million people and, while it is still lagging behind other well-established tourist destinations, such as Thailand and Malaysia, this number is on a constant rise. An afternoon siesta is a custom observed throughout Indochina, and the hard-working Vietnamese make no exceptions. Once it is time to rest, they will lie down practically anywhere: on a park bench, a counter or a motorcycle, in a park under a tree or a raincoat. Down south, on the Mekong River Delta, it is warm throughout the year. Even when it does not rain, the air is saturated with moisture, so dry weather is not very common there. The rainy season falls between May and October. Once you add the asphalt, skyscrapers and crowds to the mix, you have arrived in Ho Chi Minh City. A one-time Khmer harbour on the edges of the large delta is a relatively new city. The Vietnamese inhabited it in the 17th century, but the oldest buildings and the name Saigon originate from the period of French rule, after 1859. The picturesque Bôn Thành market dates back to 1870. After the French-Vietnamese war, in 1954, Saigon became one of the two capital cities in divided Vietnam. Being specific and different, its disagreements with Hanoi were unavoidable, which was most apparent during the last war. Today, exactly 40 years after unification, many young Vietnamese people are seeking their happiness here. A third of all foreign investment pours into Ho Chi Minh City, which accounts for as much as 20% of Vietnam’s GDP. Economic reforms initiated in post-war Vietnam were not glitch-free. The Soviet Union had to disappear, and the helm had to be taken over by some new people so that pragmatism could beat strict dogmatism. This brings us back to the old neighbour who believes that it is no longer important whether the cat is black or white, but whether it can chase down mice. The traditional Vietnamese assiduity and the tendency of individuals to subject themselves to the community, which could always be relied upon, lead to the discovery of a formula that finally worked in the late 1980’s. The socialist market economy is by now an almost archaic definition of a system that has consistently been achieving impressive results over the last two decades. It has taken only a decade for Vietnam to turn from a famished land into a major food exporter. Direct foreign investments have boosted the industry. Footwear and clothing items by numerous global brands are made in Vietnam, while tourism and the IT industry are also on the rise. There are also valuable oil reserves in the South China Sea. Poverty has been significantly reduced, and the population, which is nearing 90 million, is noticeably young, leaving an impression of vitality and vigour. Four million Vietnamese nowadays live abroad, predominantly in the United States, Australia and Taiwan, as well as in France, Germany, the Czech Republic and Russia. In order to understand the system, which is obviously very successful in Vietnam, one must dig through the top layer of ideological, coldwar era labelling, and look for answers in tradition. It is difficult to pick a symbol that puts the sheer diversity of Vietnam into one boat. Will it be the yellow five-pointed star, the celebration of the Tet or a tribute to the country’s ancestors? It is a country with a large, young population, marked by diversity and change. There is much I have not written about, the Ha Long Bay, the Mekong River Delta, the nightlife of Da Nang, the house of Marguerite Duras, Sapa and the mountain sanctuaries… I have not yet been to many places. In any case, I would love to come back, and I would not at all be surprised if I do the same journey again on a high-speed Shinkansen train. W 128

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DOGAÐANJA EVENTS

Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and Photos TuristiËka zajednica grada Zagreba/ Zagreb Tourist Board

se preuzeti s mikrostranice betherezagreb. com ili preko QR koda na lecima što se mogu naÊi na svim vaænijim turistiËkim mjestima u Zagrebu. Viπe informacija dostupno je na: http://www.betherezagreb.com/

Zagreb, glavni grad Republike Hrvatske, jedan je od najstarijih europskih gradova, ali i jedna od najmlaih europskih metropola. Zagreb je ishodiπte za putovanja i doæivljaje koji se pamte. Njegov zeleni prsten ili, pak, modernim prometnicama kao i zraËnim linijama povezana obala Jadranskog mora, tu su nadomak i oËekuju vas. Zagreb, the Croatian capital, is one of the oldest cities in Europe, but also one of the youngest European capitals. Zagreb is the starting point of journeys and memorable experiences. Its so-called green ring or the Adriatic coast with which Zagreb is well connected through modern roads and direct ﬂights are within easy reach awaiting you.

agreb je ishodiπte za putovanja i doæivljaje koji se pamte. Njegov zeleni prsten ili, pak, suvremenim prometnicama kao i zraËnim linijama povezana obala Jadranskog mora, tu su nadomak i oËekuju vas. Od proljeÊa do jeseni mnoge se priredbe i izloæbe dogaaju na otvorenome te su prava atrakcija za posjetitelje i zasluæne su za osobitu atmosferu grada. Najvaænije zagrebaËke kulturne institucije i mnogi hoteli, od kojih velik dio i u sastavu meunarodnih hotelskih lanaca, smjeπteni su u srediπtu grada, u pjeπaËkoj zoni koja je − kada to vrijeme dopušta − vjerojatno najveÊi europski kaﬁÊ na otvorenome. Tu su i druge atrakcije kao πto je æivopisna trænica na otvorenome − jedna od posljednjih u Europi, apsolutno prvorazredni doæivljaj za sve koji dou u Zagreb. Iako kulturom i zemljopisnim poloæajem srednjoeuropski, arhitekturom barokni, Zagreb u mnogoËemu æivi medite130

…ne propustite… Dug popis dogaanja u Zagrebu sljedeÊih mjeseci dokazuje da grad æivi doista dinamiËno. Osim prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti koje smo naslijedili, neprekidno se dodaju i novi sadræaji. Mnoge kulturne i sportske priredbe, tradicija koja se isprepleÊe sa suvremenim æivotom, izloæbe renomiranih umjetnika, koncerti i druge priredbe najpoznatijih svjetskih zvijezda, sve bogatija gastronomska i trgovaËka ponuda... grad koji ste i do sada voljeli iz dana u dan dobiva sve ljepπe i privlaËnije lice te vas srdaËno doËekuje. ZagrebaËki vremeplov, 18.4.−3.10.2015. »im se travanjsko sunce probije kroz ostatke zimskih oblaka, zagrebaËkim ulicama poËinje niz dogaaja koji nas sve do ponovnoga jesenskog zahlaenja vraÊaju u proπlost grada. Po uliËicama Gornjega grada sretat Êete se, tako, s likovima po kojima je Zagreb poznat pjevaËima starogradskih pjesama, boemima, πestinskim kumicama, a iz zrinjevaËkog paviljona ponovno Êe se πiriti zvuci valcera i tanga. Baπ kao iz starih ﬁlmova i sa sentimentalnih fotograﬁja. www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

ranskim naËinom æivota. I baπ zbog tog spoja on je - priznaju to njegovi gosti - grad speciﬁËnoga πarma i gostoljubivih, srdaËnih ljudi. Dojmovi mnogih stranaca koji u Zagrebu æive, poslovnih ljudi i turista mogu se saæeti u jednu reËenicu: milijunski grad koji je uspio ostati romantiËan i siguran. Zagreb ima priËu i srce − veliko srce! Zagreb Be There − otkrijte ono najbolje u Zagrebu! Planirate li u razgled Zagreba? Moæda ga veÊ veoma dobro poznajete, ali æelite ga vidjeti drugim oËima? Uz aplikaciju Zagreb Be There moæete napraviti upravo to. Jednostavno odaberite put koji æelite istraæiti, prijavite se na odreenim lokacijama, podijelite svoje slike s pomoÊu hashtag #BeThereZagreb te osvojite zabavne nagrade baπ kao πto ste istraæili grad. Aplikacija Zagreb Be There dostupna je za iOS i Android ureaje, a moæe

ZagrebaËki vremeplov/ Zagreb Time Machine

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Rodin u MeπtroviÊevu Zagrebu, 6.5.−20.9.2015. Francuskom kiparu François-Augusteu Rodinu bile su 62 godine kad je u BeËu 1902. upoznao mladoga 19-godiπnjeg hrvatskog kipara Ivana MeπtroviÊa. Nakon πto je vidio njegove radove, prozvao ga je najveÊim fenomenom meu umjetnicima danaπnjice. StoljeÊe poslije, MeπtroviÊeva djela izloæena su u Parizu, a sada Êe hrvatska publika imati priliku vidjeti najbolje Rodinove skulpture. www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr Floraart − meunarodna vrtna izloæba, 25.5.−31.5.2015. Kao najva æniji zagrebaËki hor tikulturni dogaaj ova Êe meunarodna vrtna izloæba tijekom sedam dana obiljeæavati 50. obljetnicu i tako produæiti tu cvjetnu manifestaciju. Uz niz dogaaja na Bundeku, ali i lokacijama na Gornjem gradu, Floraart donosi ljepotu cvijeÊa u srce grada. www.zrinjevac.hr Ljeto na ©trosu, 25.5.−2.9.2015. Strossmayerovo πetaliπte jamËi neke od najromantiËnijih πetnji po Gornjem gradu, a u ljetnim mjesecima pretvara se u pozornicu za umjetniËke instalacije i nostalgiËnu glazbu

uæivo iz proπlog stoljeÊa. Tridesetoga lipnja odræat Êe se i proslava pola nove godine, uz popratni vatromet. www.ljetonastrosu.com Cest is d’Best, 3.6.−10.6.2015. Æivahan, zabavan i energiËan - Cest is d ‘Best najpopularniji je meunarodni uliËni festival u Hrvatskoj za Ëijeg trajanja ulice Zagreba oæive i budu preplavljene stotinama izvoaËa, glumaca, komiËara, æonglera, klaunova, glazbenika, plesaËa i joπ mnogo toga. Svatko je dobro doπao i svatko moæe sudjelovati u programu, bilo da je mlad ili star. www.cestisdbest.com Animafest Zagreb, 9.6.−14.6.2015. Kao jedan od najpoznatijih svjetskih festivala animiranog ﬁlma, Animafest Zagreb pruæit Êe potpuni uvid u meunarodnu animacijsku produkciju, ali i spojiti se sa svojim kratkometraænim izdanjem koje se dosad odræavalo svake dvije godine. OËekuju vas brojne radionice, predavanja i prezentacije interaktivnih medija, kao i popratna izloæba u galeriji ULUPUH-a. www.animafest.hr INmusic festival, 22.6.−24.6.2015. Jubilarno 10. izdanje glazbenog festivala koji se smatra jednim od najboljih na svijetu jamaËno Êe opet oduπeviti i uËiniti ga − najboljim.

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Dosadaπnji nastupi izvoaËa poput Arctic Monkeysa, Franza Ferdinanda, Lily Allen, Billyja Idola, Massive Attacka, Arcade Firea i Jamiroquaija oduπevili su posjetitelje, a uskoro slijede i najave ovogodiπnjih izvoaËa. www.inmusicfestival.com .

Gornji grad/Upper town

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agreb has many surprises in store for all walks of life: great historical and cultural sites, numerous museums, many events and musical performances, exciting nightlife, restaurants with excellent food and wines, great shopping and sports facilities, beautiful parks and above all, friendly people. Its green surroundings and its fantastic connection to the scenic Adriatic coastline, by both air and highway, are a great additional value for all Zagreb visitors. Zagreb is the city of international fairs, conventions, business meetings as well as sporting events. There are more than 6,000 beds in hotels, some of them belonging to worldfamous hotel chains (Westin, Sheraton, Double Tree by Hilton, etc.). The number of small and family-owned hotels and hostels is increasing. They all share the same level of professionalism and hospitality.

Getting around the city is easy. You can reach most of the attractions on foot as they are situated in the pedestrian zone. Public transport is well organized and there is a good and affordable taxi service. The impressions of many foreigners who live in Zagreb, business people and tourists can be summed up in a single sentence: a large city which managed to stay romantic and safe. Zagreb has a story to tell, and a heart − a big heart! Zagreb Be There - Explore the coolest paths in the city Ever wanted a city guide who will show you awesome spots known only to insiders? With Be There you’ll discover the coolest spots in Zagreb using the most insightful app available. We made discovering Zagreb easy; choose a path you want to explore, check in at locations, share your pics using the hashtag #BeThereZagreb, and claim fun rewards as you explore the city. Zagreb Be There is available for iOS and Android devices and can be downloaded from microsites betherezagreb.com or via the QR code on ﬂyers that can be found in all major tourist points in Zagreb. More information is available at: http://www.betherezagreb.com/

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…a little bit of everything… A long list of events that will be held in Zagreb in the coming months, prove that the city lives truly dynamic. Besides the natural and cultural values that we inherited, new facilities are constantly being added. Many cultural and sports events, a tradition that is intertwined with contemporary life, exhibitions of renowned artists, concerts nad other events, rich gastronomic and shopping offer… In any case, whatever you choose, you can expect an interesting, beautiful and unique city with a heart! Zagreb Time Machine, 26 April − 4 October, 2015 As soon as the April sun ﬁnds its way through the remnants of the winter clouds, the streets of Zagreb become the venue for a whole array of happenings which last until the autumn chills start, and which take us back through the history of the city. Walking through the streets of the Upper Town, the old part of Zagreb, you are certain to come across characters that made Zagreb famous − singers of old parlour ballads, bohemians or peasant women from the village of ©estine. Meanwhile, from the pavilion in the Zrinjevac park in the centre of town, the enchanting sounds of the waltz and tango will be heard again, just as depicted in old ﬁlms and sentimental photographs. www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr Rodin in MeπtroviÊ’s Zagreb, 6 May − 20 September, 2015 French sculptor Francois-Auguste Rodine was 62 when he met the young 19 year old Croatian sculptor Ivan MeπtroviÊ in Vienna, in 1902. After seeing his works, he called him the greatest phenomenon among artists today. A

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MSU

century later, MeπtroviÊ’s works recently went on display in Paris, and now, the Croatian audience gets to see the finest Rodin’s sculpts in Art Pavilion in Zagreb. www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr Floraart − The International Garden and Flower Exhibition, 25 − 31 May, 2015 Zagreb becomes a patchwork quilt of colour with the annual Floraart International Garden and Flower Exhibition. Exhibitors from Croatia and beyond present their finest flowers and plants, along with the latest equipment to keep your grass green and your roses pruned. www.zrinjevac.hr Summer on Stross, 25 May − 2 September, 2015 The Strossmayer Promenade is one of the most romantic walks in the city’s old Upper Town. In the summer months in turns into a stage for art installations and nostalgic live music form the past century. A traditional celebration, marking the half-way point of the New Year, will be held on June 30, with a fireworks display. www.ljetonastrosu.com Cest is d’Best, 3 − 10 June, 2015 Vivacious, fun and energetic − Cest is d’Best is the most popular international street festival in Croatia during which the streets of Zagreb

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come alive and are literally filled with hundreds of performers, actors, comedians, jugglers, clowns, musicians, dancers, and more. Everyone is welcomed and everyone can partake in the programme, both the young and the old. www.cestisdbest.com Animafest Zagreb − World Festival of Animated Film /short and feature film edition, 9 − 14 June, 2015 Since its establishment in 1972, this festival and its competitions, retrospectives, presentations, exhibitions, pitching forums lectures, awards, panoramas, workshops and all other additional events have consistently influenced and greatly contributed to Zagreb’s artistic life, as well as promotion of animation art throughout the world. Animafest Zagreb is a place of inspiration, creativity, exchange of ideas, innovation, communication and international diversity. www.animafest.hr INmusic festival, 22 − 24 June, 2015 The jubilee 10th edition of what is deemed to be one of the world’s top 10 music festivals is sure to once again impress, with zest, making it − the best! Previously, bands like the Arctic Monkeys, Franz Ferdinand, Lily Allen, Billy Idol, Massive Attack. Arcade Fire and Jamiroquai have rocked and bopped. Stay tuned for this year’s announcements. www.inmusicfestival.com W

Arheoloπki muzej/ Archaeological Museum

Oktogon prolaz/Oktogon passage

Strossmayerovo πetaliπte/ Strossmayer promenade

Jezero Jarun/ Jarun lake

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ZAGREB CARD Make ZAGREB CARD your irreplaceable travel companion in the capital of Croatia! ZAGREB CARD offers you unlimited travel on public transport, discounts in the city museums, reduced prices at many restaurants, shops, and much more… More information is available at: www.zagrebcard.½vestars.hr .

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Festival Rendez-vous, koji Êe se odvijati od svibnja do rujna 2015. godine, bit Êe prilika za otkrivanje suvremene Francuske, njezine kulture i umijeÊa æivljenja, sudjelovanjem u brojnim aktivnostima u cijeloj Hrvatskoj − od Varaædina do Osijeka i Vukovara, od Motovuna, Rijeke i Pule, preko Zagreba, do Zadra, ©ibenika, Splita i Dubrovnika. Festival Rendez-vous multidisciplinarnog karaktera nudit Êe dogaanja na svim podruËjima: glazbe, vizualne umjetnosti, kazaliπta, cirkusa, plesa, dizajna, arhitekture, knjiæevnosti, ﬁlma, ali takoer i dogaanja na podruËju gospodarstva, mode, konferencije o buduÊnosti Europe i nekim od kljuËnih globalnih pitanja, sporta, gastronomije, turizma, znanstvenoga i sveuËiliπnog istraæivanja… i joπ mnogo toga πto vrijedi otkriti. Nekoliko je znaËajnih dogaanja koje moæemo najaviti: velika izloæba Augustea Rodina, opera Pelléas i Mélisande Claudea Debussyja − umjetniËka koprodukcija HNK u Zagrebu i Opera-Comique de Paris, Concert spirituel Hervéa Niqueta i drugih uglednih baroknih ansambala na Festivalu barokne glazbe u Varaædinu, veliki bal 14. srpnja na glavnome zagrebaËkom trgu, kao i meunarodni simpozij o klimatskim promjenama. Ovaj istinski susret hrvatske i francuske kulture osmiπljavaju, organiziraju i predstavljaju Ministarstvo kulture Republike Hrvatske i Francuski institut, u suradnji s Ministarstvom vanjskih poslova i meunarodnog razvoja Francuske, te Gradom Zagrebom kao glavnim partnerima. .

Festival Rendez-vous which will take place from May to September 2015, will be an opportunity to discover contemporary France , its culture and art of living, through participation in numerous activities throughout Croatia − from Varaædin to Osijek and Vukovar, from Motovun, Rijeka and Pula, via Zagreb to Zadar, ©ibenik, Split and Dubrovnik . The multidisciplinary Festival Rendez-vous will offer various events: music, visual arts, theater, circus, dance, design, literature, film, as well as the events in the field of economy, fashion, conferences on the future of Europe and some of the global key issues, sports, gastronomy, tourism, scientific and university research... and much more that is worth to discover! There are several significant events that we can announce: the great exhibition of Auguste Rodin, opera Pelléas et Mélisande by Claude Debussy − in co-production of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb and the Opera-Comique de Paris, Concert spirituel by Hervé Niquet and other prestigious baroque ensembles at the Festival of Baroque Music in Varaædin, large bal on July 14 at Zagreb’s main square, as well as the international symposium on the topic of climate change. This meeting of Croatian and French culture is organized and represented by the Croatian Ministry of Culture and the French Institute, in collaboration with the Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs of France and Croatia, and the City of Zagreb as the main partners. W

∂ Opeéra-comique (photo Elisabeth Carecchio)

∂ museée Rodin (photo Christian Baraja)

Rendez-vous Festival of France in Croatia May to September 2015

∂Thierry Nava - Spectacle Groupe F

Rendez-vous Festival Francuske u Hrvatskoj svibanj − rujan 2015.

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*Pogodnost vrijedi za pristupnice primljene od 10.3. do 30.6.2015.

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Piše/By Dubravka PrpiÊ Znaor CROATIA AIRLINES

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MODA FASHION

Posljednjih desetak godina svijet mode uvelike se okrenuo vlastitoj tradiciji: megabrendovi nanovo otkrivaju vlastitu povijest, kreirajuÊi je na moderan naËin, a istodobno etnobaπtina nameÊe se kao vrlo vrijedna nit vodilja koja jamËi dugovjeËnost i dodatnu vrijednost. Upravo u skladu s tim premisama veÊ godinama u Hrvatskoj egzistira nekoliko brendova zbog kojih je ta scena itekako æiva.

Over the past ten years, the fashion world has been turning to tradition in its search for inspiration: megabrands are rediscovering history and recreating it in a modern way, while ethno-heritage has imposed itself on the scene as a very valuable guiding thread which guarantees longevity and provides added value. In keeping with the trend, there are several brands in Croatia which make the fashion scene vibrant indeed.

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kojemu radi i kÊi Marija, diplomirana dizajnerica Tekstilno-tehnoloπkog fakulteta, te sin Vid, diplomirani ekonomist (ukupno šest zaposlenih). − Naπa je vizija ponuditi kvalitetne, inovativne, unikatne i prepoznatljive hrvatske proizvode, ne samo u Hrvatskoj i hrvatskom iseljeniπtvu, nego i na globalnom træiπtu koje sve viπe prepoznaje autohtonost, originalnost i posebnu vrijednost takve vrste proizvoda − istiËe Vesna MilkoviÊ. Od poËetka rad temelje na neposrednoj suradnji sa struËnjacima iz uglednih institucija, poput Akademije znanosti i umjetnosti, etnografskih i povijesnih muzeja i Instituta za folkloristiku te razmjenjuju znanje i iskustva s druπtvima i udrugama koje se bave tradicijskim ruËnim radom. − Suraujemo − istiËe Vesna MilkoviÊ − i s drugim kulturnim udrugama u zemlji i inozemstvu, a jedna od njih je Hrvatsko-πvicarska kulturna udruga u Bernu. »esto rabimo ruËni vez zlatovez i πlinga, kao i motive starog pisma glagoljica, te uzorak pleter, kao i bordure BaπËanske ploËe. Kako bismo dodatno naglasili kulturnu snagu kreacija, glagoljicom (staroslavenskim pismom nastalim sredinom 9. stoljeÊa) na svojim kreacijama ispisujemo stihove glasovitih pjesnika poput Augusta ©enoe: Budi svoj..., Antuna Branka ©imiÊa: »ovjeËe, pazi da ne ideπ malen ispod zvijezda... Tina UjeviÊa: Ne boj se, nisi sam… Ove Êe godine na poziv Ruske akademije znanosti (Instituta za slavistiku), butik Mara u Rimu odræati prezentaciju s temom glagoljskih misala, te u istom tematskom tonu postaviti izloæbu odjevnih predmeta i suvenira, kao i reviju kaputa, haljina, majica, planera i torbi nadahnutim glagoljskim misalima. Croata Rijetko koji poslovan Ëovjek u Hrvatskoj nema Croata kravatu, koja je osnovni proizvod te kuÊe, a svilene rupce nose brojne dame. Slogan kuÊe − stil inspiriran tradicijom − naglaπava kako Croata spaja dugu tradiciju izrade i proizvodnje kravata i rubaca, dakako, od svile. − Godiπnje proizvedemo oko sto tisuÊa kravata izraenih od probrane svile i drugih materijala, preko razliËitih razvojnih i proizvodnih procesa. Velika ih je veÊina πivana ruËno i istiËu se raznovrsnim detaljima. Poslije kravata, u naπu su ponudu ubrzo uπle i koπulje, kao neizostavan dio stylinga s kravatom − otkriva Franjo BuπiÊ, direktor tvrtke, koji je prije tri godine preuzeo vodstvo od oca Marijana i njegova dugogodiπnjeg partnera Zlatka PenoviÊa. Upravo s misijom da vrate kravatu njezinim korijenima, partneri Marijan BuπiÊ i Zlatko PenaviÊ osnovali su 1990. brend Croata. − Rubac, πal, zavezan u Ëvor, zapravo je prva kravata. Tako i æenski klasiËni izriËaj poËinje rupcem ili πalom. On preobraæava i æenskoj ﬁguri daje sveËani ton i æenstvenost − istaknuo je Marijan BuπiÊ. − Osim osobite kvalitete proizvoda,

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tna Maar, Etno butik Mara, Croata, Gena Moda Croatica i Petrine pletilje imena su koja ovdaπnja (u nekim sluËajevima i svjetska) javnost veoma dobro poznaje, te ih cijene zbog njegovanja tradicijskih tehnika, visokovrijedne ruËne izrade i koriπtenja starinskih hrvatskih motiva. No, to nije sve − ovdje je rijeË i o suvremenom dizajnu, jer baπ to treba kako bi etnomoda pokazala svoju praktiËnost u danaπnjemu modernom svijetu. RijeË je o proizvodnji odjeÊe i modnih dodataka koji su naπli svoju primjenjivost u svakodnevnom æivotu, bilo da su posrijedi sveËane ili svakodnevne potrebe. Treba naÊi onu finu granicu izmeu tradicije i suvremenosti, a upravo su je autori koje ovdje predstavljamo, pronaπli. Trud se nagrauje, pa neki od autora imaju Ëast raditi modu koja ima naziv Izvorno Hrvatsko. Ne samo to, nego su ti autori sudjelovali diljem svijeta na brojnim izloæbama, revijama i predstavljanjima Lijepe Naπe. Joπ je neπto specifiËno s hrvatskim, a vjerojatno i svjetskim brendovima Ëija se filozofija i izrada temelje na tradiciji − uglavnom je rijeË o obiteljskom poslu. Etna Maar Autorica Andrijana SubotiÊ PjajËik osnovala je dizajnerski studio Etna Maar prije 11 godina i otpoËetka radi na strojevima za pletenje vlastitoga obiteljskog obrta, uz koje je odrasla. Upravo su oni obiljeæili æivotni put autorice iz Vinkovaca − zavrπila je zagrebaËki Tekstilno-tehnoloπki fakultet, a danas je i Ëlanica cijenjene Hrvatske udruge likovnih umjetnika primijenjenih umjetnosti (ULUPUH). U radu kombinira ljubav prema modnom dizajnu i tradicionalne tehnike izradbe, a njezin rad oboæavaju brojne ljubiteljice udobne, ruËno raene odjeÊe. Imala je revije i predstavljanja diljem Europe i Australije, te na Novom Zelandu. Predanim radom zaradila je stipendiju British Councila te se poslovno usavrπila u Italiji i Velikoj Britaniji, no njezin je rad vezan iskljuËivo za lokalnu tradicionalnu izradu. Tijekom karijere suraivala je i s Arheoloπkim muzejom u Zagrebu. Njezin je rad vezan uz pletivo, koje kombinira s drugim tkaninama, te dorauje bojenjem i ruËno raenim detaljima. Svake godine posjeÊuje europske sajmove, na kojima se konstantno potvruje kao autorica koja je uskladila tradicionalne tehnike svoje domovine s modernim siluetama i potrebama svakodnevne æene. Etno butik Mara Vesna MilkoviÊ veÊ se dugi niz godina bavi kreiranjem odjeÊe i suvenira koji u sebi sjedinjuju hrvatske tradicijske motive, starinsku tehniku ruËne izrade i suvremeni dizajn. Ove godine obrt slavi petnaest godina postojanja, a etno butik Mara deset godina. To je obiteljski obrt u

priËa o kravati te priËe o motivima dezena bili su kljuËni elementi diferencijacije, koji su Ëinili novi proizvod ekskluzivnim i omoguÊili mu uspjeπno pozicioniranje na træiπtu. Mi smo zaljubljeni u naπe proizvode i to kupci osjeÊaju. Uz kravate, tvrtka je godinama s vlastitim timom dizajnera i s dvije proizvodnje postupno razvijala πiroki asortiman visokokvalitetnih modnih proizvoda proizvedenih u Hrvatskoj: æenski rupci i πalovi, muπke i æenske koπulje, prsluci, modni dodaci od koæe, svile i metala, te nakit. Kolekcije modnih dodataka nude bogati izbor poslovnih torbi, novËanika, raznih etuija, remena, rukavica, dugmad za orukvice koπulja, igle za kravate i drugih dodataka, u viπe varijanti, ovisno o boji, strukturi koæe ili svile i modelu. Linija Festum nudi prsluke, sveËane kravate, plastrone, pojase za smoking i leptir-kravate. Utemeljitelj neproﬁtne organizacije Academia Cravatica, Marijan BuπiÊ, 2011. godine osvojio je nagradu Grand Prix za projekt Kravata oko Arene, a Redom Danice hrvatske s likom Marka MaruliÊa odlikovan je za zasluge za kulturu i promicanje ugleda Hrvatske u svijetu. Predsjednik RH Ivo JosipoviÊ odlikovao ga za njegove osobite zasluge u promicanju identiteta, ugleda i prepoznatljivosti Republike Hrvatske u svijetu. No, kravata je roena davno, 1630. godine, kad su hrvatski vojnici usred Tridesetogodiπnjeg rata oko vrata poËeli nositi rupce zavezane u Ëvor. Zapazili su to soﬁsticirani Francuzi i povijest je za kravatu bila zapeËaÊena. Kravata se ubrzo preselila i na dvor francuskog kralja Luja XIV. CROATIA AIRLINES

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ETNO BUTIK MARA, Photo: Jelena BaliÊ

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t C A hi CROATA Ph t

Gena − moda Croatica Trogirski modni atelijer Gena − moda Croatica Borisa BuriÊa-Gene poznat je po odijelima koja predstavljaju oËuvanje tradicije na viπe razina: ruËna izrada originalnog dizajna s tradicionalnim elementima donijela mu je priznanje Izvorno Hrvatsko te nagradu Splitskodalmatinske æupanije za oËuvanje kulture odijevanja, za doprinos na podruËju promicanja i oËuvanja hrvatske kulturne baπtine i identiteta. Njegovo odijelo dolazi u kompletu pa se moæe kombinirati ovisno o potrebi, bilo da je rijeË o poslovnoj ili nekoj sveËanijoj prigodi. Posao nastavlja obitelj. Njegova djeca Nela, Ivan i Paulina zavrπili su modni dizajn na Tekstilnotehnoloπkom fakultetu u Zagrebu i sada aktivno sudjeluju u procesima dizajna i proizvodnje. Atelijer je speciﬁËan po isticanju tradicionalnih naËina izrade i oslanja se na dizajn 19. stoljeÊa. Odijela nose imena: Pastorale, Obligato, Festoso, Semplice, Furioso, Nobile… Moda je umjetnost, istiËe Gena, tradicija i kultura, dokaz postojanosti nacionalne pripadnosti i identiteta nekog naroda. Kolekcijom se 148

istiËu jednostavnost i predanost detaljima, na temelju Ëega se, iako je rijeË o tradicionalnom dizajnu, Genina formula ispostavlja kao praktiËna, elegantna, moderna i nosiva u svakodnevnim trenucima. U Hrvatskoj je taj brend vrlo poznat po sveËanim odijelima za vjenËanja i sliËne prigode, u inozemstvu njegova odijela nose Placido Domingo, Barack Obama, Bernie Ecclestone, Francesco Cossiga… Petrine pletilje Mina Petra PetriËec iz bogate je hrvatske tradicije izabrala pletenje i vezenje, njezini proizvodi nalaze se u kategoriji Izvorno Hrvatsko. U dugogodiπnjoj suradnji s brojnim pletiljama koje ruËno rade uz pomoÊ tradicionalnih tehnika, Mina Petra stvara kolekcije moderno dizajniranih odjevnih predmeta od vune i konca, nadahnutih hrvatskim narodnim motivima. Na primjer, poslovna torba Tkanica (dobitnica brojnih nagrada) rezultat je uspjeπnoga i svrhovitog povezivanja tradicijskog bogatstva tekstilnih etnomotiva tkanice s podruËja ©ibensko-kninske æupanije i sjeverne Dalmacije s modernim dizajnom proizvoda, radi kreiranja njegove

visoke uporabne i suvenirske vrijednosti. Autorica istiËe i ceker za laptop − pravi spoj tradicije i potrebe moderne æene. Ceker za prijenosno raËunalo napravljen je u suradnji sa Socijalnom zadrugom Pruæimo ruke iz Bjelovara. Njegova vrijednost prepoznata je u javnosti, a veÊ na prvim izloæbama i predstavljanjima taj je unikatan i zaπtiÊen proizvod dobio visoke ocjene i priznanja. I kolekcije nose prepoznatljiva lokalna imena: Materina priËa, Tkanica (osim torbe, tu je i odjevna kolekcija od vune), Licitarsko srce i »ipka. Nedavno je Mina Petra predstavila i kolekciju ekoloπke posteljine i posoblja Lijepa naπa Sava. − Ekoloπka posteljina, osim πto je naËinjena od komuπine, od koje se izraivala posteljina i prije stotinu godina, kreirana je kao posve nov i moderan proizvod koji sadræava sva obiljeæja proπlosti. Narudæbe nam posljednjih dana stiæu iz svih krajeva Hrvatske, a naπu po mnogoËemu jedinstvenu kolekciju predstavit Êemo u svim krajevima svijeta − izjavila je etnoumjetnica Mina Petra PetriËec. .

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CROATA, Photo: Arhiva Croata

the direction of her career; she got a degree from Zagreb’s School of Textile Technology, and she is a member of the prominent Croatian Association of Applied Artists (ULUPUH). In her work, she combines love for fashion design and traditional manufacturing techniques. Her work is appreciated by women who love comfortable, hand-made clothes. She has held shows and presentations all over Europe, Australia and in New Zealand. Her dedication has won her a British Council grant, and she completed her education in Italy and Great Britain. However, her work is linked exclusively to local traditional production. Throughout her career, she has worked together with the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb. Knitting is the main part of her work. She combines knitwear with other fabrics and adds

finishing touches to her products by dying and applying hand-made details to them. Every year, she visits European trade fairs, where she constantly reaffirms her position as a designer who has stricken the perfect balance between the traditional techniques of her homeland and the modern silhouettes and needs of a modern woman. Mara Ethno Boutique For a number of years, Vesna MilkoviÊ has been designing clothes and souvenirs by combining traditional Croatian motifs and manufacturing techniques with modern design. This year, her business is celebrating its fifteenth anniversary, and of those fifteen years, she has spent ten of them working under the name Mara Ethno Boutique. The family business employs six people, including her

CROATA, Photo: Arhiva Croata

tna Maar, Mara ethno Boutique, Croata, Gena Moda Croatica and Petrine Pletilje are well-known brands in Croatia (and some of them abroad as well). These labels are highly-valued for the traditional techniques they use and the fact that their hand-made garments are inspired by traditional Croatian motifs. But that is not all; the designs are contemporary, as they indeed should be to allow ethno-inspired fashion to show its practical side in today’s modern world. These clothes and accessories have found their place in everyday life − as the style of choice for special occasions or for everyday use. The right balance between tradition and modernity is the key to success and the aforementioned designers seem to have found it. Hard work is also publicly-rewarded, so some of the designers have the honour of creating fashion which carries an original Croatian product label. Not only that − these designers have showcased their designs all over the world, at numerous exhibitions and fashion shows, and at special events where Our Beautiful Homeland, as Croatia is lovingly dubbed, has been presented to the world. There is another characteristic shared by both Croatian and other global brands whose philosophy and production are based on tradition: all are family-owned businesses. Etna Maar The designer, Andrijana SubotiÊ PjajËik, established the Etna Maar Design Studio 11 years ago. Ever since, she has worked on the same knitting machines that she grew up with as she came from a family whose trade was knitting. These knitting machines inspired the designer from Vinkovci when she was deciding CROATIA AIRLINES

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GENA, Photo: Archive Gena Moda Croatica

designer daughter, Mara, who holds a degree from the School of Textile Technology, and her son Vid, who has a degree in business. − Our vision is to offer high quality, innovative, unique and recognizable Croatian products, not only in Croatia and to Croatians living abroad, but also on the global market, which is becoming increasingly fascinated with authenticity, originality and the special value such products provide, says Vesna MilkoviÊ. From the very beginning, they have worked closely 150

with experts from prominent institutions, such as the Academy of Arts and Sciences, ethnographic and historical museums, and the Institute of Folklore; they exchange their knowhow and experiences with these associations as well as with other institutions that deal with traditional handiwork. Vesna MilkoviÊ says: We work with other cultural associations in the country and abroad. One of them is the Croatian-Swiss Association in Bern. We often use gold embroidery and

white work, as well as the motifs of the old Glagolitic script, the Croatian wattle patterns and the Baπka border tablets. In order to reinforce the cultural power of our creations, we decorate our creations with quotes from the works of famous poets, such as August ©enoa: Be who you are..., Antun Branko ©imiÊ: Man, small as thou are, walk tall under the stars..., and Tin UjeviÊ: Do not be afraid, you are not alone. This year, at the invitation of the Russian Academy of Science (the Institute for Slavonic Studies), Mara Boutique will be holding a presentation in Rome on the topic of Glagolitic missals, and will set up an exhibition of clothes and souvenirs, as well as organize a fashion show of coats, dresses, tops, agenda cases and bags inspired by Glagolitic missals. Croata There is hardly a businessman in Croatia who does not have a Croata tie, the company’s core product, while many ladies wear their silk scarves. The fashion house’s motto − A Style Inspired by Tradition − highlights the fact that Croata combines a long tradition of designing and manufacturing silk ties and scarves. Franjo BuπiÊ, the company’s director, who took over three years ago from his father Marijan, and his long-term partner Zlatko PenoviÊ, says: We produce approximately 100,000 ties a year. Our main material is the highest quality silk and we employ various development and production processes. A high majority of our ties are hand-made and depict various details. We have also included shirts in our product range as a logical addition to the styling of a tie-wearing man. When they established the Croata brand in 1990, the main mission of the partner duo, Marian BuπiÊ and Zlatko PenaviÊ, was to return the tie to its roots. − A kerchief or a scarf tied into a knot is actually the real tie. A woman’s classic fashion statement begins with a kerchief or a scarf. It transforms and gives the female ﬁgure a special appeal and femininity, says Marijan BuπiÊ. − Apart from very high product quality, the story of the tie and the stories of the design motifs were the key differentiation elements which were the main ingredients in the products’ successful positioning on the market. We are in love with our products and our buyers can sense it. In addition to ties, the company’s team of designers, working on two production lines, has gradually developed a wide range of products made in Croatia: women’s scarves and kerchiefs, women’s and men’s blouses and shirts, vests, silk and metal accessories, and costume jewellery. The collection of fashion accessories offers an impressive range of briefcases,

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www.dalmatia.hr info@dalmatia.hr Prilaz braÄ&#x2021;e Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

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as weddings. Individuals who have bought his suits are: Placido Domingo, Barack Obama, Bernie Ecclestone, and Francesco Cossiga… Petrine Pletilje /Petra’s Knitters/ Mina Petra PetriËec has taken knitting and needlework to be her inspiration out of a rich Croatian tradition. Her products are labelled made in Croatia. Working together with numerous knitters who hand-make their wares using traditional techniques, Mina Petra has been creating collections featuring contemporary designs, using wool and cotton thread, inspired by Croatian motifs for a number of years. For example, her Tkanica briefcase (the recipient of numerous awards) is a result of a successful combination of the traditional ethnological motif of tkanica, the traditional weaving technique from ©ibenik, Knin County and Northern Dalmatia, with contemporary product design. The result is a highly-useful product which serves as an original and highlycoveted souvenir. The designer also mentions the laptop tote, a winning combination of

tradition and the needs of a modern woman. The laptop tote was developed in cooperation with the Pruæimo Ruke (Let us open our Arms) Society from Bjelovar. It is highly-valued by the general public; this unique and protected product started receiving accolades and recognition as soon as it was showcased at exhibitions and presentations. The collections bear recognizable local names: Mother’s Story, Tkanica (apart from the tote, there is also a collection of wool clothes), the Licitar Heart and Lace. Recently, Mina Petra has presented her collection of bed linen and home textiles, made from organic fabrics, to the public under the name, Our Beautiful Sava. Besides being made out of corn husk, as it was a hundred years ago, organic bed linen is now an entirely new and modern product which features all the characteristics of past times. − We have been receiving orders from all over Croatia, and we will present our unique collection to the world, says the ethno-artist, Mina Petra PetriËec. W

PETRINE PLETILJE, Photo: Archive Petrine Pletilje

wallets, various cases, belts, gloves, cufﬂinks, tie clips and other accessories in a wide variety of colours, and variations depending on the structure of the leather or silk or the model. The Festum line contains vests, ties for special occasions, dickeys, tuxedo belts and bow ties. In 2011, the founder of the non-proﬁt organization, Academia Croatica, Marijan BuπiÊ won a Grand Prix for his project, Tie around Arena, and he also received the Order of Danica Hrvatska medal with the image of Marko MaruliÊ on it for his contribution to the promotion of Croatian culture and enhancing the country’s reputation in the world. He also received a special merit award from Croatian president, Ivo JosipoviÊ, for his special contribution to the promotion of identity, reputation and recognizability of the Republic of Croatia throughout the world. But the tie was born a long time ago, in 1630, when Croatian soldiers, engaged in the Thirty Years War, started tying kerchiefs around their necks. When the sophisticated and fashion conscious French spotted them, the future of the tie was sealed. Very quickly, the tie made its way to the court of King Louis XIV. Gena − Moda Croatica The Trogir-based fashion atelier, Moda Croatica, owned by Boris BuriÊ Geno has made its name by designing suits which preserve tradition at several levels: they are hand-made, featuring original designs and traditional elements. All of this has afforded the designer the recognition of having his products carry an Original Croatian Product label and he has received awards from the counties of Split and Dalmatia for fostering and promoting traditional clothing culture, and for his contribution to the promotion and protection of Croatian cultural heritage and identity. His suits come in sets and different parts can be combined as needed, for business or for special occasions. The family runs his business. His children Nela, Ivan and Paulina have degrees in fashion design from the School of Textile Technology in Zagreb and are now actively involved in the processes of design and production. The atelier’s main characteristic is the focus it puts on traditional manufacturing techniques and 19th century design. The names of the suits are: Pastorale, Obligato, Festoso, Semplice, Furioso, and Nobile… − Fashion is art, says Geno, tradition, culture, and proof of national existence, belonging and identity of a people. The main characteristics of his collections are simplicity and attention to detail. Although their design is traditional, Geno’s formula results in practical, elegant, modern and highly-wearable items suitable for every moment of everyday life. In Croatia, the brand is famous for suits for special occasions, such CROATIA AIRLINES

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POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT Od bugarske veleposlanice u Republici Hrvatskoj, dr. Tanye Dimitrove, æeljeli smo saznati neπto viπe o njezinom doæivljaju Hrvatske te o tome je li imala neku sliku o naπoj zemlji prije nego πto je doπla ovamo. Otvorena, pristupaËna i spremna na razgovor, dr. Tanya Dimitrova, koja je ujedno i naπa Ëesta putnica, rado je za naπ Ëasopis odgovorila na naπa pitanja. We asked Dr. Tanya Dimitrova, the Ambassador of Bulgaria to the Republic of Croatia if she could tell us more about her impressions of Croatia and if she had a vision of our country before coming here. Open, honest and approachable, Dr. Tanya Dimitrova, who is also a frequent ﬂyer on our airline, gladly answered these questions for our magazine.

TANYA DIMITROVA:

Piše/By Ksenija Žlof Fotograﬁje/Photos Nenad Reberšak

■ ©to ste prvo pomislili kad su Vam prije dvije godine rekli kako Êe Vaπ mandat biti baπ u Hrvatskoj? − Moja fascinacija Hrvatskom traje veÊ godinama. Kao doktorica etnologije i folkloristike, oËarana sam njezinom povijeπÊu i kulturom. Prije svog mandata posjetila sam neke njezine krajeve i gradove, a kad sam Ëula da dolazim ovamo, bila sam oduπevljena. Vidjela sam to kao priliku za poslovni napredak i moguÊnost da proπirimo veze i kontakte naπih dvaju naroda te da omoguÊimo joπ ËvršÊu suradnju. ■ Koje Vam je najdraæe mjesto u Hrvatskoj? Kad biste nekom prosjeËnom Bugarinu opisivali Hrvatsku, πto biste istaknuli kao najljepπe i najposebnije? − Teπko mi je izdvojiti samo jedno mjesto. Bugarska obala nije razvedena kao hrvatska i zbog toga sam oËarana Dalmacijom, Istrom i njihovim otocima, ali i gastronomijom. Katkad mi samo malo nedostaju one prostrane i πiroke pjeπËane plaæe koje imamo mi na obalama Crnoga mora. Takoer, mislim da je Zagreb jedan od rijetkih gradova u svijetu koji je saËuvao duh

i duπu nekih minulih vremena i zbog toga ga neizmjerno volim. No, srce mi zatreperi svaki put kad putujem u Slavoniju i kad ugledam one zlatne ravnice i konje vrane, koji me neizmjerno podsjeÊaju na domovinu. Zaista se ne mogu odluËiti za samo jedno mjesto. Cijela Hrvatska jedno mi je najdraæe mjesto. ■ Postoji li u hrvatskoj kulturi ili temperamentu ljudi neπto πto smatrate neobiËnim ili drugaËijim? Koliko se razlikuje rad s Hrvatima od rada s Bugarima i kako Vam je suraivati s Hrvatima? Je li temperament Hrvata sliËan temperamentu Bugara? − Mislim da su nam temperamenti popriliËno sliËni. Ipak, u Hrvatskoj je sve nekako

opuπtenije i laganije. Prva hrvatska rijeË koju sam nauËila jest polako. Bugari uvijek nekamo æure i jure. U Hrvatskoj je sve opuπtenije i laganije, a opet na kraju dana obavimo sve πto trebamo. To je karakterna crta Hrvata, koja je posve drugaËija i koju najviπe volim. ■ Dugogodiπnja ste bugarska vrlo uspjeπna novinarka i æupanica. »ime se osobito ponosite u svojoj karijeri? Da imate priliku, biste li neπto drugaËije uËinili? »ime biste se bavili da se ne bavite diplomacijom? − Kao æupanica, radila sam na EU programima meugraniËne suradnje i popularizacije bugarske kulture, na vladinom programu CROATIA AIRLINES

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Lijepa Bugarska, kao i programima vezanima uz ulazak Bugarske u Schengenski prostor. »esto mi 24 sata u danu nisu (bila) dovoljna da uËinim sve πto sam zamislila. Držim kako se uvijek moæe neπto bolje i neπto viπe. Niπta ne bih mijenjala, ali voljela bih da sam imala dovoljno vremena napraviti apsolutno sve πto sam zaæeljela. A da se ne bavim diplomacijom... ne znam. Uvijek se sjetim Majke Tereze koja je rekla kako nije bitno πto radiπ, nego koliko ljubavi unosiπ u ono πto radiπ i koliko to darujeπ drugima. ■ Koordinacija hr vatskih druπtava prijateljstva uruËila Vam je poËasno priznanje za osobni doprinos jaËanju bilateralnih odnosa i razvojnih procesa te suradnje izmeu Bugarske i Hrvatske. ©to biste joπ voljeli uËiniti na tom podruËju? − U posljednje dvije godine ostvarili smo niz uspjeπnih razmjena na najviπim razinama − predsjedniËkim, premijerskim, parlamentarnim, ministarskim i gradskim. Sustavno radim na bratimljenju gradova te ostvarivanju zajedniËkih gospodarskih i kulturnih projekata. Sada pregovaram s pet bugarskih i hrvatskih gradova oko potpisivanja ugovora o suradnji i nadam se da Êe se uspjeπno realizirati. Takoer, voljela bih ojaËati gospodarske odnose izmeu Bugarske i Hrvatske pa radim i na tome. ■ Vaπ mandat u Hrvatskoj zavrπava za dvije godine. Po Ëemu Êete pamtiti to razdoblje? − Neizmjerna mi je Ëast bila biti ovdje tijekom tako vaænog trenutka za Hrvatsku, kao πto je njezin ulazak u EU. Tim viπe πto je Bugarska oduvijek podupirala Hrvatsku na tom putu. Ovdje sam upoznala mnogo prekrasnih ljudi zbog kojih Hrvatsku vidim kao svoj drugi dom. Upravo Êu je po tome i najviπe pamtiti, po prekrasnim ljudima i divnim trenucima koje sam doæivjela ovdje. ■ Vi ste prva bugarska æena veleposlanica u Zagrebu. Je li teπko biti æena u diplomaciji? Kako vidite poloæaj æene u javnim institucijama i na visokim poloæajima? − Æena je u svakom trenutku svoga æivota i majka i kuÊanica i supuga i radnica. Ona je sve u jednom, multipraktik. Ali kad radim, ne razmiπljam o sebi kao o æeni nego kao o struËnjaku i zato mi nije lako odgovoriti na to pitanje. Sretna sam zbog toga πto vidim da u posljednje vrijeme u Bugarskoj ima sve viπe visokopozicioniranih æena. ■ Izvrsno govorite hrvatski. Je li Vam ga bilo teπko nauËiti? − Bugarski i hrvatski srodni su i vrlo sliËni jezici. Iako sam znala hrvatski prije nego πto 156

sam doπla ovamo, katkad mi je bilo teπko razluËiti πto je pravilni hrvatski, a πto je bugarski utjecaj. Zbog toga sam pohaala nastavu hrvatskog jezika na zagrebaËkome Filozofskom fakultetu, πto mi je uvelike pomoglo i dalo vjetar u lea. Takoer, smatram kako je korisno da diplomat govori jezik one dræave u kojoj se nalazi. Vidjela sam kako Hrvati cijene πto na sastancima govorim hrvatski, iako katkad neπto i pogrijeπim. Ipak, u razgovoru s njima svakodnevno vjeæbam i tako najviπe uËim. Premda mi se Ëini da padeæe nikada neÊu sasvim pravilno rabiti. ■ HoÊe li Vam nedostajati Hrvatska nakon zavrπetka Vaπeg mandata i hoÊete li se vraÊati u Lijepu Naπu? − Dakako, hoÊu i planiram se vraÊati πto Êu viπe moÊi. Vidim Hrvatsku kao svoju prijateljicu. Jer, prijateljstvo ne tvori jedna velika stvar...prijateljstvo je milijun malih, drugima nerazumljivih stvari. Iako Êu moæda u nekoj drugoj dræavi steÊi nova prijateljstva, ona se stara nikada ne zaboravljaju. .

■ What was your ﬁrst thought when you were told two years ago that your mandate would take place in Croatia? − I have had a fascination with Croatia for years. As I hold a PhD in Ethnology and Folklore, I am enchanted by its history and culture. Prior to my term of ofﬁce, I visited some of its regions and cities, and when I heard that I would be coming here, I was thrilled. I saw it as an opportunity for career development and the chance to expand connections and contacts between our two nations, as well as a chance to enable even stronger cooperation. ■ What is your favourite place in Croatia? If you were describing Croatia to an average Bulgarian, what feature would you point out as the most beautiful and most special? − It is hard for me to single out just one place. Bulgaria does not have a well-indented coastline like Croatia and that is why I am enchanted by Dalmatia, Istria and the islands, but also by the gastronomy. Sometimes, however, I miss the spacious and wide sand beaches which we have on the banks of the Black Sea. Also, I think that Zagreb is one of the few cities in the world that has kept the spirit and soul of its past and for that reason I love it immensely. Nevertheless, my heart skips a beat every time I travel to Slavonia and when I see those golden plains and raven horses which greatly remind me of home. I really cannot choose just one place. The whole of Croatia is my favourite place.

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■ Is there anything in the Croatian culture or the temperament of the people that you consider to be unusual or different? How is working with Croats different from working with Bulgarians and how do you like working with Croats? Is the temperament similar? − I think that our temperaments are quite similar. However, everything in Croatia is somehow more relaxed and slower. The ﬁrst Croatian word I learned was slowly. Bulgarians are always in a hurry and they are always running somewhere. Everything is more relaxed and slower in Croatia, and yet, by the end of the day, we get everything done. It is characteristic of Croats which is entirely different and which I love the most. ■ You are a longtime very successful Bulgarian journalist and county prefect. What are you particularly proud of in your career? If you had the chance, would you do something differently? What would you be doing if you were not in the business of diplomacy? − As a county prefect, I have worked on EU programmes for transnational cooperation and the popularization of Bulgarian culture, on the government programme Beautiful Bulgaria, as well as on programs related to Bulgaria’s entry into the Schengen Area; 24 hours a day were often not enough for me to do everything that I had planned. I believe that we could always do better and more. I would not change anything, but I would like to have had enough time to do absolutely everything I had wanted to do. And if I were not working in diplomacy...I do not know. I always remember Mother Teresa who said that it does not matter what you do, but how much love you put into your work and how much you give to others. ■ The Coordination of Croatian Friendship Societies presented you with an honorary award for your personal contribution to the strengthening of bilateral relations and development processes and cooperation between Bulgaria and Croatia. What else would you like to achieve in that area? − In the last two years, we have achieved a number of successful exchanges at the highest levels − presidential, prime ministerial, parliamentary, ministerial and municipal. I have been systematically working on town twinning and the realization of joint economic and cultural projects. I am currently negotiating with ﬁve Bulgarian and Croatian cities about the signing of a partnership agreement and I hope that it will be successfully implemented. Also, I would like to strengthen economic relations between Bulgaria and

Croatia, which I have been methodically working on. ■ Your mandate in Croatia ends in two years. What will you remember that period by? − It has been a great honor to have been here during such an important moment for Croatia, in terms of its entry into the EU, even more so, as Bulgaria has always supported Croatia on that path. Here I have met many wonderful people who are the reason why I see Croatia as my second home and I will remember it the most for precisely that reason, for the wonderful people and the beautiful moments I have experienced here. ■ You are the first Bulgarian woman ambassador in Zagreb. Is it difficult to be a woman in diplomacy? How do you see the position of women in public institutions and in high positions? − At every moment of her life, a woman is a mother, a homemaker, a wife, and a worker. She is an all-in-one, the whole package. But when I am working, I do not think of myself as a woman, but as an expert, and for that reason it is not easy for me to answer that question. I am happy to see that lately in Bulgaria, there have been more and more women in high-ranking positions. ■ Your Croatian is excellent. Was it difficult for you to learn it? − Bulgarian and Croatian are related and very similar languages. Although I knew Croatian before I came here, sometimes it was difficult for me to distinguish proper Croatian from that influenced by Bulgarian. For that reason, I attended Croatian language classes at Zagreb’s Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences, which greatly helped me and gave wind to my sails. Also, I find it useful when a diplomat speaks the language of the country in which he or she is residing. I saw that Croats would appreciate me speaking Croatian at meetings, even though I would occasionally make a mistake here or there. However, I practice it daily in everyday conversation and that is how I learn the best. However, it seems that I will never quite be able to use the cases properly. ■ Will you miss Croatia after your mandate ends and will you be coming back to Croatia? − Of course I will, and I plan to come back as much as possible. I see Croatia as my friend. For me, friendship is not made up of a single big thing...friendship consists of a million little things which are incomprehensible to others. Although I will perhaps make new friends in another country, the old ones will never be forgotten. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Otkrijte Barcelonu i Atenu s Croatia Airlinesom!

U ljetnom redu letenja Croatia Airlines vam nudi direktne letove na linijama: Split - Atena subotom (od 2. svibnja 2015.) Dubrovnik / Zagreb - Atena utorkom, četvrtkom i nedjeljom (od 9. travnja 2015.) Zagreb - Barcelona utorkom, četvrtkom i nedjeljom (od 29. ožujka 2015.) Vidimo se na nekom od naših letova!

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555

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OBLJETNICA ANNIVERSARY

U povodu 25. roendana Croatia Airlinesa organizirali smo nagradni LET 25 za naπe putnike, autore najkreativnijih prijava. Njih 25 otputovalo je na nezaboravni vikend u Amsterdam. Nagraeni putnici proveli su svoj vikend iz snova baπ onako kako su zaæeljeli u prijavi.

na PaviÊ, Andrea VincetiÊ, Antonio BiliÊ, Bojana NevajdiÊ, Dajana BenkoviÊ, Dino BakariÊ, Domagoj »ota, Dragutin Habulin, Ileana Tomrlin, Ines ©ariÊ, Iva JurjeviÊ, Ivanka Munjas, Jelena ©iπiÊ, Karla Rogoæar, Karlo

MaÊaπ, Katarina StiπÊak, Kristijan LeæajiÊ, Luka DuiËiÊ, Marina Poletto, Mario »enan, Mihaela Orlovac, Maπa MilivojeviÊ RaiË, Petar ReiÊ, Tibor KranjËec i Vedrana GreguriÊ autori su najkreativnijih prijava, s kojima je Croatia

On the occasion of its 25th birthday Croatia Airlines organized a contest, FLIGHT 25, and awarded 25 passengers with an unforgettable weekend in Amsterdam, making sure that their dream weekend was exactly as they had described on their entry forms. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Airlines odluËio proslaviti svoj roendan. U povodu 25. roendana, tvrtka Croatia Airlines organizirala je nagradni natjeËaj LET 25, koji 25 autora najkreativnijih prijava vodi na nezaboravan vikend u Amsterdam. Svatko tko je svoju kreativnu prijavu ostavio na web stranici www.let25.hr ili ispunio nagradni letak na bilo kojem letu Croatia Airlinesa, sudjelovao je u nagradnom natjeËaju i imao priliku osvojiti tu neobiËnu pustolovinu. U Meunarodnoj zraËnoj luci Zagreb uzbuenje je bilo u zraku veÊ od ranog jutra. Na avanturu za pamÊenje otisnulo se tako 25 sretnika koji su u pratnji uvijek vesele i dobro raspoloæene Ide Prester posjetili svoj grad iz snova. BuduÊi da se od svakog kandidata oËekivalo da u prijavi objasni zaπto bi upravo on trebao osvojiti ovo nagradno putovanje, Croatia Airlines je svojim nagraenim putnicima omoguÊio da vikend iz snova provedu baπ onako kako su to i zaæeljeli u svojoj prijavi, pa iznenaenjima za putnike Leta 25 nije bilo kraja. Uzlijetanje je obiljeæila pjesma kojom su sretni dobitnici Croatia Airlinesu poæeljeli sretan roendan, a vesela i dinamiËna atmosfera zadræala se tijekom cijelog putovanja. Putnicima koji su se na ovo putovanje prijavili kako

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bi se oslobodili straha od letenja, omoguÊeno je da let provedu u kokpitu, uz pilote Croatia Airlinesa. Andrea, koja se prvi put vozila u avionu, iz kokpita je ushiÊeno prokomentirala: Sada znam kako je meu oblacima. Za vrijeme leta bojaæljive je putnike za ruku dræala vesela Ida Prester, koja je i nakon slijetanja u stopu pratila sve putnike u ostvarenju njihovih æelja. Poslije slijetanja u Amsterdam i smjeπtaja u hotel, trebalo je nastaviti s ispunjavanjem æelja. Prema Mihaelinoj æelji, organiziran je posjet muzeju velikog Van Gogha, ispred kojega je postavljeno klizaliπte na kojemu djeca Ëesto zaigraju hokej, za Andreu je organiziran posjet poznatoj amsterdamskoj trænici tulipana, a neki su putnici Ëak i razmatrali ulazak u Smart shop, iako su se naposijetku ipak odluËili za razgledavanje i uæivanje u umjetnosti i arhitekturi grada. Osim klasiËnog obilaæenja grada, njegovih kulturnih znamenitosti i kultnih restorana, za Dina je dogovoren i poseban posjet Tattoo shopu, organizirane su πetnje uz kanale, ali i voænje biciklima koje je u svojoj prijavi zaæelio Tibor. Poslije povratka u zagrebaËku zraËnu luku putnike su doËekali njihovi najbliæi, s kojima su oduπevljeno dijelili svoja iskustva ne skidajuÊi osmijehe s lica. Ivanka je nakon slijetanja svima

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glasno poruËila: Sve je bilo savrπeno! Cijelih 25 sati. Od prvoga do dvadesetpetog sata stizala su nam iznenaenja. Cijelo vrijeme. Ivankin povik bio je potvrda da je tim Croatia Airlinesa organizirao roendansko slavlje koje Êe se dugo pamtiti. .

na PaviÊ, Andrea VincetiÊ, Antonio BiliÊ, Bojana NevajdiÊ, Diana BenkoviÊ, Dino BakariÊ, Domagoj »ota, Dragutin Habulin, Ileana Tomrlin, Ines ©ariÊ, Iva JurjeviÊ, Ivanka Munjas, Jelena ©iπiÊ, Karla Rogoæar, Karlo MaÊaπ, Katarina StiπÊak , Kristijan LeæajiÊ, Luka DuiËiÊ, Marina Poletto, Mario »enan, Mihaela Orlovac, Maπa MilivojeviÊ RaiË, Petar ReiÊ, Tibor KranjËec and Vedrana GreguriÊ are the winners of the most creative contest entries, with whom Croatia Airlines decided to celebrate its birthday. On the occasion of its 25 th birthday, the company organized a contest, FLIGHT 25, and awarded these 25 individuals with an unforgettable weekend in Amsterdam. Anyone who posted his or her creative submissions on the website at: www.let25.hr, or ﬁlled out the contest entry form on any of Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights, were automatically entered into the

contest and had a chance to take part in this unusual adventure. At the Zagreb International Airport, the excitement was already in the air early in the morning. The lucky 25 started an adventure to remember and were accompanied by the always cheerful, Ida Prester, as they visited their dream city. Since candidates were asked in their submissions to explain why they should win this prize, Croatia Airlines made sure that their dream weekend was exactly as they had described on their entry forms. Hence, there was no end to the surprises organized for the travelers of Flight 25. Takeoff was marked by a song, which the lucky winners themselves sang to wish Croatia Airlines a happy birthday, and the cheerful and dynamic atmosphere continued for the entire trip. The travellers who had entered the contest in order to fight their fear of flying were allowed into the cockpit, together with Croatia Airlines pilots. Andrea, for whom this was the very first flight, let out a cry of exaltation while sitting in the cockpit: Now I know what it is like to be among the clouds. During the flight, a cheerful Ida Prester, held hands with fearful passengers, and after landing, was always with them while

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their dreams came true. After landing in Amsterdam and getting settled in a hotel, they all set off to fulfill their wishes. For Mihaela, a visit to the Van Gogh Museum was organized. In front of the museum, there was a skating rink where children often play hockey. For Andrea, a visit to the famous Amsterdam tulip market was organized. Some passengers even considered going to the Smart Shop, but in the end, they decided to go sightseeing and enjoy the arts and architecture of the city instead. For Dino, along with classic sightseeing and visiting the city’s cultural attractions and famous restaurants, we organized a special visit to the Tattoo Shop; still for others, we organized leisurely walks along the canals, and a bike tour, as Tibor had asked for on his submission form. After returning to Zagreb International Airport, the travelers were welcomed by their loved ones, with whom they excitedly shared their experiences while maintaining a big smile on their faces. After landing, Ivanka loudly said: Everything was perfect! All 25 hours. From the first hour to the twenty-fifth, we were showered with surprises − the whole time. Ivanka’s words were just more confirmation that the Croatia Airlines’ team had organized a birthday party to be remembered for a long time. ■ 162

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OÆUJAK / MARCH Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings do/to 29.3., Koprivnica IZLOÆBA PISANICA OD SRCA/ EASTER EGG FROM THE HEART EXHIBITION VeÊ tradicionalno, Ëetvrtu godinu zaredom, TuristiËka zajednica KoprivniËkokriæevaËke æupanije u sklopu projekta Pisanica od srca organizira jedinstvenu izloæbu velikih uskrsnih pisanica na otvorenome, a bit Êe postavljena na Zrinskom trgu u Koprivnici./Traditionally, for the fourth consecutive year, as part of the project Easter Egg from the Heart project, the Tourist Board of Koprivnica-Kriæevci County is organizing a unique exhibition of large Easter eggs in the open air. The exhibition will take place at Zrinski Square in Koprivnica. www.tz-koprivnicko-krizevacka.hr TRAVANJ/APRIL Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 18.4.-3.10., Zagreb ZAGREBA»KI VREMEPLOV/ ZAGREB TIME MACHINE Niz dogaaja, koji nas sve do ponovnoga jesenskog zahlaenja vraÊaju u proπlost grada, moæete pogledati u proljeÊe na zagrebaËkim ulicama. Srest Êete pjevaËe starogradskih pjesama, boeme, πestinske kumice, a iz zrinjevaËkog paviljona πirit Êe se zvuci valcera i tanga, baπ kao nekad…/A series of events, taking us back throughout the history of the city, can be visited this spring on the streets of Zagreb. You will see

performers singing old-time favourites, bohemians, and village women from ©estine, who sell their products at Zagreb’s central green market, and from the Zrinjevac Pavilion, the sounds of the waltz and tango will echo in the neighbouring streets, like once long ago... www.zagreb.touristinfo.hr 11.4., Zagreb KONCERT ENNIJA MORRICONEA/ ENNIO MORRICONE’S CONCERT Slavni dirigent posjetit Êe Zagreb u sklopu svoje turneje My Life in Music (50 Years of Music − World Tour), a prestiæni dogaaj zamiπljen je kao spektakl s viπe od 200 glazbenika na sceni, predvoenih maestrom./The famous conductor will visit Zagreb as part of his My Life in Music tour (50 Years of Music World Tour). This prestigious performance of more than 200 musicians on stage is led by maestro Marricone. www.eventim.hr 23.-26.4., Zagreb DANI HRVATSKOG FILMA/ DAYS OF CROATIAN FILM U kinima Europa i Tuπkanac prikazuje se i vrednuje jednogodiπnja domaÊa filmska produkcija, a program obuhvaÊa razliËite filmske vrste. Uz festival u Puli to je srediπnji filmski dogaaj kad je rijeË o domaÊoj kinematografiji./This year’s domestic film production will be presented and evaluated in the Europa and Tuπkanac theatres; the program includes a variety of film types. Together with the Pula Film Festival, this is a central event when it comes to national cinematography. www.danihrvatskogfilma.net

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on February 15th. Allow for change after this date.

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25.4.-11.5., Zagreb FESTIVAL SV. MARKA/ ST. MARK’S FESTIVAL Organizatori festivala i za ovu godinu najavljuju nastupe domaÊih i gostujuÊih solista i ansambala na zagrebaËkome Gornjem gradu, Ëije Êe vas izvedbe ostaviti bez daha./ Once again this year, in Zagreb’s Upper Town, the organizers of the festival have announced performances of both local and visiting soloists and ensembles whose performances will leave you breathless. www.festivalsvmarka.hr 25.-26.4., Zagreb 12. FESTIVAL PLIVANJA/ THE 12th FESTIVAL OF SWIMMING Meunarodno plivaËko natjecanje u kategorijama − mlae juniorke, kadeti, mlai kadeti i poËetnici./An international swimming competition for various categories: younger juniors, cadets, junior cadets and beginners. www.pkdubrava.hr 29.4., Zagreb KONCERT THE FRAJLE/ THE FRAJLE CONCERT Obrade kojima su ta Ëetiri vokala i dvije akustiËne gitare osvojile publiku njihova su osobitost koja ih izdvaja od ostalih na glazbenoj sceni i njima su magnetski privukle publiku razliËitih glazbenih usmjerenja. Na jednom koncertu podjednako dræe publiku napetom izvodeÊi skladbe u rasponu ruske ciganske do aktualne pop-rock glazbe./The performance of four vocals and two acoustic guitars attracts a wide audience because of their unique style, which distinguishes them from other performers on the music scene. At the concert, the audience will enjoy a range of performances, from Russian Gypsy to current poprock music. www.lisinski.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 11.-12.4., Opatija FESTIVAL KAVE/ COFFEE FESTIVAL Festival kave u Opatiji predstavlja ovaj omiljeni aromatiËni napitak na stotinu razliËitih naËina, od kojih se mnogi ne mogu kuπati nigdje drugdje u svijetu./ The Coffee Festival in Opatija shows this favourite aromatic beverage off in a hundred different ways, many of which cannot be tasted anywhere else in the world. www.opatija-tourism.hr

Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 20.-26.4., Dubrovnik DUBROVNIK FESTWINE 2. REGIONALNI VINSKI FESTIVAL/ DUBROVNIK FESTWINE - THE 2nd REGIONAL WINE FESTIVAL Izloæba meunarodno priznatih vrhunskih vina DubrovaËko-neretvanske æupanije, na kojoj se predstavljaju i regionalni vinari s viπe stotina razliËitih etiketa te mnoge autohtone sorte./ Dubrovnik FestWine is an internationally-recognized exhibition of premium wines out of the Dubrovnik-Neretva County, which introduces regional wine-makers to several hundred different kinds of wine, including many indigenous varieties. www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com 10.-12.4., Dubrovnik FESTIVAL AKLAPELA/ AKLAPELA FESTIVAL Posjetite ovaj festival ponajboljih hrvatskih muπkih, æenskih i mjeπovitih klapa koje njeguju izvorno klapsko pjevanje bez instrumentalne pratnje./ Visit this festival of the best Croatian male, female and mixed a cappella groups, which present original harmony singing without instrumental accompaniment. www.aklapela.hr

SVIBANJ/MAY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 7.5.-7.6., Zagreb IZLOÆBA –URE SEDERA/ AN EXHIBITION OF THE WORKS OF –URO SEDER Moderna galerija predstavlja retrospektivnu izloæbu –ure Sedera, jednog od najznaËajnijih hrvatskih slikara hrvatske moderne i postmoderne umjetnosti. Retrospektivna izloæba prikazat Êe dvjesto najznaËajnijih djela iz svih razdoblja umjetnikova likovnog stvaralaπva./ The Modern Gallery is presenting a retrospective exhibition of the works of –uro Seder, one of most important Croatian painters of modern and postmodern art. His retrospective exhibition brings two hundred of his most important works from all periods of the artist’s creative work. www.moderna-galerija.hr

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–uro Seder, Pelivani, 1982.

and messages, whose common feature is its one-minute length. In a single minute, the ﬁlm needs to contain all the required elements of a story: plot, climax, and resolution. www.crominute.hr

9.5.-26.7., Zagreb IZLOÆBA BAUHAUS − UMREÆAVANJE IDEJA I PRAKSE (BAUNET)/THE EXHIBITION BAUHAUS − NETWORKING IDEAS AND PRACTICE (BAUNET) U Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti bit Êe odræana izloæba Bauhaus − umreæavanje ideja i prakse (BAUNET). Izloæba Êe cjelovito istraæiti i prezentirati djelovanje umjetnika iz regije, koji su se πkolovali na znamenitoj meunarodnoj πkoli za arhitekturu, dizajn i vizualne umjetnosti Bauhaus./The Bauhaus − Networking Ideas and Practice (BAUNET) exhibition is being staged at the Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art. The exhibition explores and presents the work of artists from the region schooled at the renowned international school of architecture, design and visual art − Bauhaus. www.msu.hr 15.-17.5., Zagreb 18. FESTIVAL STRIPA CRTANI ROMANI ©OU/18th FESTIVAL OF COMICS - CRTANI ROMANI SHOW Festival stripa ugoπÊuje zvijezde inozemnoga i domaÊeg stripa, koje Êe posjetitelji moÊi upoznati preko predavanja, radionica i susreta, crtanja za publiku i potpisivanja. Festivalom se pokuπava istaknuti potreba za ulaganjem u hrvatski strip, Ëiji su autori uvijek bili svjetski priznati umjetnici, a kod nas relativno nepoznati./The Festival of Comics features the stars of foreign and local comics. Visitors will be able to meet them at many lectures, workshops and meetings; the stars will be drawing for the audience and signing comic books. The festival tries to highlight the need for investment in the Croatian comics industry, most of the artists have always been world-renowned, but remain relatively unknown domestically. www.crs-festival.com/

25.-31.5., Zagreb 50. ME–UNARODNA VRTNA IZLOÆBA. FLORAART 2015./ THE 50th INTERNATIONAL GARDEN EXHIBITION − FLORAART, 2015 Zbog obiljeæavanja jubilarnoga 50. FloraArta, izloæba Êe trajati cijeli tjedan, od ponedjeljka do nedjelje. Dogaanja Êe biti u središtu grada, na Gornjem gradu, gdje je sve poËelo prije pola stoljeÊa, i na Bundeku, gdje je izloæba posljednjih nekoliko godina./Due to the 50th jubilee of FloraArt, the exhibition will be open for the entire week, from Monday to Sunday. The events will take place in the centre of Zagreb, in the Upper Town, where it all started half a century ago, and at Bundek Park, where the exhibition has been held for the last few years. www.zrinjevac.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 9.5.,Vukovar FESTIVAL DUHOVNE GLAZBE BONOFEST/SPIRITUAL MUSIC FESTIVAL - BONOFEST Na ovom festivalu duhovne glazbe predstavljaju se glazbenici i potiËu tekstopisci i skladatelji na pisanje novih duhovnih skladbi./ This festival of spiritual music presents the performances of several musicians and encourages songwriters and composers to write new spiritual pieces. www.laudato.hr 28.-30.5., Poæega HRVATSKI FESTIVAL JEDNOMINUTNIH FILMOVA/ CROATIAN FESTIVAL OF ONE-MINUTE FILMS Na festivalu moæete pogledati zbirku ﬁlmova svih æanrova, tematika i poruka, Ëija je zajedniËka nit jednominutno trajanje. U samo jednoj minuti film mora sadræavati sve zadane elemente priËe, zaplet, vrhunac i rasplet radnje./ At the festival, you will be able to see a collection of ﬁlms in all genres, themes

Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 25.5. WINE DAY- DAN OTVORENIH VINSKIH PODRUMA U ISTRI/ WINE DAY- DAY OF OPEN WINE CELLARS IN ISTRIA Ovaj dogaaj obiljeæavaju istarski vinari u osamdesetak vinskih podruma diljem Istre. Stoga doite toga dana u neki od istarskih vinskih podruma i uæivajte u kvalitetnom vinu./This event is made up of Istrian winemakers in about eighty wine cellars across Istria. Visit one of the Istrian cellars on this day and enjoy an excellent quality of wine. www.istra.hr/www.istra.com Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 3.5., Zadar GLOBALNA UTRKA WINGS FOR LIFE/WINGS FOR LIFE WORLD RUN ADRIATIKA Utrka Wings for Life World Run Adriatika kreÊe iz Zadra, grada osobite povijesti i bogatoga kulturnog naslijea, koji se smjestio na srediπnjem dijelu Jadranske obale. Utrka poËinje s Foruma, nedaleko od predivnog simbola grada − crkve sv. Donata. Staza se zatim nastavlja kroz Kopnena vrata sagraena 1543. te se penje prema Jadranskoj magistrali i pruæa do Primoπtena, toËnije, do toËke do koje zadnji trkaË ostane trËati./The Wings for Life World Run Adriatika race starts in Zadar, a city of exceptional history and rich cultural heritage, which is located in the central part of the Adriatic coast. The race starts next to the Roman Forum near the beautiful and symbolic Church of St. Donatus. The course continues through the Land Gate, which was built in 1543, rises to the Adriatic Highway and stretches all the

way to Primoπten, or any other point reached by the last of the runners. www.wingsforlife.com Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 30.-31.5., Selce 5. FESTIVAL JAGODA/ THE 5th STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL Rivijera Crikvenica bit Êe ukraπena æivahnim voÊnim proljetnim ruhom i mirisati na jagode. OËekuje vas gastronomska manifestacija namijenjena svim sladokuscima i ljubiteljima ukusnih jagoda./The Riviera Crikvenica will be decorated in lively fruit spring attire and have a scent of strawberries. This gastronomic event is dedicated to all gourmets and lovers of delicious strawberries.

LIPANJ/JUNE Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 9.-14.6., Zagreb ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2015./ 2015 ANIMAFEST ZAGREB Svjetski festival animiranog filma − Animafest Zagreb prvi put od osnutka sjedinjuje kratkometraæno i dugometraæno izdanje te za svoje nadolazeÊe, integrirano izdanje u 2015. godini najavljuje predstavljanje animiranih filmova svih duæina trajanja./ For the first time since its establishment, the World Festival of Animated Film -Animafest Zagreb has combined short and feature length films, and for its upcoming integrated release in 2015, it has announced the presentation of animated films of various length. www.animafest.hr 3.-10.6., Zagreb CEST IS D’BEST/ CEST IS D’BEST Na desetak dana ovaj festival pretvara ulice zagrebaËkog središta u vedri i optimistiËni svijet cirkusa i uliËnog kazališta. Nikada grad nije πareniji i njime se ne πiri vedriji duh nego kada njime hodaju klaunovi i zabavljaËi, koji na zagrebaËki festival dolaze iz

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cijelog svijeta./For about ten days, this festival manages to turn the streets of downtown Zagreb into a cheerful and optimistic world of circus and street theatre. The town is never more colourful, nor does it spread a brighter spirit than when it hosts an array of clowns and entertainers who come to the Zagreb festival from all over the world. www.cestisdbest.com Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 5.6.-5.7., –akovo –AKOVA»KI VEZOVI/ –AKOVO EMBROIDERY U –akovu se predstavljaju tri oblika kulturne tradicije Slavonije − folklor, gastronomija te tradicija uzgoja konja./–akovo is showing three aspects of the cultural traditions of Slavonia - folklore, gastronomy and its horse breeding tradition. www.tz-djakovo.hr 12. i/and 13.6., PitomaËa PJESME PODRAVINE I PODRAVLJA/SONGS OF THE PODRAVINA REGION MUSIC FESTIVAL Glazbeni festival koji je posveÊen njegovanju puËke suvremene pjesme. Na njemu svake godine nastupaju poznati izvoaËi hrvatske tradicionalne glazbe./This music festival is dedicated to the fostering of contemporary folk songs. Every year it hosts famous Croatian performers of traditional music.

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www.pitomacafestival.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 11.-14.6., Rijeka 16. FIUMANKA/ THE 16th FIUMANKA REGATTA Iz svih krajeva svijeta jedriliËari se okupljaju jednom godiπnje na jedriliËarskoj regati Velika Fiumanka, koja se odræava na ruti od Rijeke do Omiπlja i natrag. To je neizostavan dogaaj za sve ljubitelje jedrenja./ Sailors from all over the world gather once a year at the Great Fiumanka Regatta, which runs a course between Rijeka to Omiπalj and back. This is an essential event for all lovers of sailing. www.ﬁumanka.eu 12.-18.6., Crikvenica FESTA CRIKVENICA: CESTA PLAVE RIBE/CRIKVENICA FESTIVAL: OILY FISH ROAD U sklopu ovog dogaanja ugostiteljski objekti na podruËju Rivijere Crikvenica nude ukusna, maπtovita i raznovrsna jela od plave ribe./As part of this event, catering facilities in the Crikvenica Riviera area offer delicious, imaginative and varied meals prepared from oily ﬁsh. www.adriaticsailor.com/ 15.6., Rijeka PROSLAVA BLAGDANA sv. VIDA/ CELEBRATION OF ST. VITUS Svake godine 15. lipnja obiljeæava se blagdan sv. Vida, zaπtitnika Rijeke, kad se u crkvici odræava bogosluæje

uz hodoËaπÊe. Takoer, u gradu se odræavaju razliËite sportske, kulturne i zabavne manifestacije./Each year, on June 15, the feast of St. Vitus, patron saint of Rijeka, is celebrated, and a liturgy and pilgrimage is held at the St. Vitus Church. Also on this day, the city boasts a variety of sporting, cultural and entertainment events. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info 12.-14.6.,Ogulin 10. OGULINSKI FESTIVAL BAJKE/ THE 10 th OGULIN FAIRYTALE FESTIVAL Svake godine u Ëast Ivani BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, popularnoj spisateljici bajki što ih rado Ëitaju djeca mnogih naraπtaja, Ogulinci prireuju ovaj festival koji njihov grad pretvara u svijet bajke./Every year, in honour of Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, a writer of fairy tales popular among children of many generations, the town of Ogulin organises this festival, which turns the entire town into a world of make-believe. www.ogfb.hr Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings 11.-13.6., Pula 14. DANI ANTIKE − PULA SUPERIORVM 2015./ THE 4th DAYS OF ANTIQUITY 2015 PULA SUPERIORUM Æelite li biti dio scenograﬁ je iz bogate kulturne povijesti rimske Pule i

rimske svakodnevice, posjetite Pulu jer njezine se ulice na nekoliko dana pretvaraju u pozornice slikovitoga rimskog teatra, a Arena ponovno postaje mjesto odræavanja gladijatorskih borbi./If you want to be part of the scenery, part of the rich cultural history of Roman Pula and and see the day in the life of a Roman, visit Pula during these few days when the streets turn into a stage of the picturesque Roman Theatre and the Arena again becomes a venue for gladiator ﬁghts. www.pulasuperiorum.com Dubrovnik i okolica/Dubrovnik and surroundings 18.-21.6., Dubrovnik VIKEND FESTIVAL ANA U GRADU/WEEKEND FESTIVAL ANA IN THE CITY Tijekom festivala predstavit Êe se Ana Rucner, vrsna violonËelistica prepoznatljivoga glazbenog stila i osebujnih scenskih nastupa./During the festival, you will enjoy the performances of Ana Rucner, a superb cellist, known for her musical style and distinguished stage performances. www.anarucner.com

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 169 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

172 NOVOSTI NEWS

174 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 177 FLOTA FLEET 179 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 181 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 182 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 184 ADRESE ADDRESSES

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THE WAY TO UPGRADE YOUR TRAVEL EXPERIENCE With Star Alliance Upgrade Awards you can now use your miles or points to upgrade your entire journey across all 27 member airlines. Giving you more choice than any other alliance. staralliance.com

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Miles & More

Osnove programa Miles & More

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More je vodeÊi program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima razliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kartica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the leading frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous pos-sibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u Miles & More programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete pogodnosti

Tiers and beneﬁts By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled ﬂights operated by Croatia CROATIA AIRLINES

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prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas status Senator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Circle status.

Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus − 25 % više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji te klasi prijevoza. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja.

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Business Class counter - Increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in First Class.

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus − 25 % više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 nagradnih milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati u najvišemu ekonomskome i najvišemu poslovnom razredu - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom, 3 komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu i 4 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja - dva e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja Senator statusa te prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award - Companion Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Ac ce ss to the Luf than sa Se na tor Lo un ge as well as to the Star Gold Lo un ges of Star Alli an ce par tners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before departure in the highest booking class in Business and Economy class - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business and 4 bags in First Class - 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal. - Senator Premium Award - Companion award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - predujam od 100.000 nagradnih milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja HON Circle statusa te prilikom svake obnove statusa

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges highest waiting list priority - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended

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-dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom, 3 komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu i 4 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja

- An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business and 4 bags in First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne zrakoplovne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShop-u.

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: ﬂight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! n 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kartice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaÊajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n Osvojite joπ viπe milja − koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kartice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile n Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC ofﬁces in Croatia or abroad

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu karticu! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kartice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kartice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa n Besplatno uËlanjenje u Priority Pass program koji vam omoguÊava pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama (uz naknadu za pristup). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles − for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles − for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles − using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales ofﬁces and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa. n Free Priority Pass programme enrollment − it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges (visit charge applicable).

Collect extra award miles − by using other Diners Club beneﬁts, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc.

2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Please ﬁnd detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI

CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS

Novost je u ljetnom redu letenja da Êemo izravno povezivati Rijeku i München, te Dubrovnik i najveÊi grad na Azurnoj obali − Nicu. Tako Êemo od 29. oæujka prvi put svake nedjelje izravno prometovati na liniji Rijeka − München, a od 28. travnja i utorkom te Ëetvrtkom. Izravni letovi Dubrovnik − Nica obavljat Êe se svakoga ponedjeljka i petka od 24. travnja. Zrakoplovi Êe u meunarodnom prometu takoer ponovno izravno letjeti na linijama za Atenu, Barcelonu, Beograd, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Lyon te Veneciju. Kao i lani, kompanija raspolaæe ﬂotom od 12 zrakoplova: πest zrakoplova Dash Q400 kapaciteta 76 sjedala, Ëetiri zrakoplova A319 sa 144 sjedala te dva zrakoplova A320 sa 174 sjedala. NEWS ABOUT THE CROATIA AIRLINES SUMMER TIMETABLE

NOVOSTI U LJETNOM REDU LETENJA CROATIA AIRLINESA

Croatia Airlines tijekom ljetnog reda letenja (29. oæujka − 24. listopada 2015.) nudi nove moguÊnosti putovanja iz domaÊih u inozemna odrediπta kao i unutar Hrvatske. U ljetnom redu letenja mreæa letova bit Êe prilagoena aktualnoj træiπnoj potraænji, a okosnica poslovanja i dalje Êe biti letovi u meunarodnom prometu. U poËetku turistiËke sezone u Hrvatskoj poËet Êemo prometovati na sezonskim linijama prema mnogim europskim træiπtima, a najvaænije træiπte i ove je godine NjemaËka. Sezonski letovi uvode se i na træiπtima Velike Britanije, Francuske, ©vicarske, Austrije, Nizozemske, ©panjolske itd. 172

During the summer flight schedule (29 March to 24 October, 2015), Croatia Airlines is offering new opportunities to travel to international destinations as well as within Croatia. During the summer flight schedule, our route network will be adjusted to current market demand, and the mainstay of our operations will continue to be international and intercontinental flights. At the beginning of the tourist season

in Croatia, we will be starting with seasonal flights to many European markets; this year again, the most important market is Germany. Seasonal flights are being introduced in the markets of Great Britain, France, Switzerland, Austria, the Netherlands, Spain, and so on. The novelty in the summer flight schedule is that flights will directly connect Rijeka to Munich, and Dubrovnik to the largest city on the Cote d’Azur − Nice. Thus, starting on 29 March, for the first time, we will have direct flights on the Rijeka − Munich route on Sundays, and from 28 April, on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Direct flights from Dubrovnik to Nice will be scheduled every Monday and Friday, starting on 24 April. In terms of international travel, we also have direct flights on routes to Athens, Barcelona, Belgrade, Berlin, Dusseldorf, Lyon and Venice. Like last year, the company has a fleet of 12 aircraft: six Dash Q400s with a seating capacity of 76, four A319 aircraft with 144 seats, and two A320s with 174 seats. DONACIJA DJE»JOJ BOLNICI SREBRNJAK

U æelji da pridonese kvaliteti lijeËenja i zdravstvene zaπtite djece u Hrvatskoj, naπa je tvrtka u veljaËi zagrebaËkoj DjeËjoj bolnici Srebrnjak donirala novËana sredstva za nabavu najsuvremenijeg ureaja za dijagnostiku u otorinolaringologiji i pulmologiji. RijeË je o rinolaringoﬁberskopu, ureaju koji omoguÊuje brzu i kvalitetnu evaluaciju stanja malih pacijenata te pomaæe u donoπenju odluke o vrsti i naËinu lijeËenja dojenËadi i djece pedijatrijske dobi. Ravnatelju DjeËje bolnice Srebrnjak dr. Bori Nogalu donaciju je uruËio predsjednik uprave Croatia Airlinesa Kreπimir KuËko. DONATION TO THE SREBRNJAK CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL

In hopes of contributing to the quality of medical treatment and to the health protection of children in Croatia, in February of this year, our company made a donation to the Srebrnjak Children’s Hospital in Zagreb for the purchase of a state-of-the-art diagnostic device for otorhinolaryngology and pulmonology. The Rhino-Laryngo Fiberscope is a device which enables the fast and accurate evaluation of young patients and helps in the making of decisions on the type and manner of treating infants and children of paediatric age. The Director of the Srebrnjak Children’s Hospital, Dr. Boro Nogal, received the donation from the President of the Management Board of Croatia Airlines, Kreπimir KuËko.

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Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi. RED SJEDENJA

Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta. ELEKTRONIČKI URE AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja. Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima. .

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

Faze leta

Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet

Prijenosno Sluπalice za raËunalo suzbijanje buke

Funkcija teksta/razgovora

Ukrcavanje

Kaπnjenje u polasku

Taksiranje za polijetanje

DA*

Polijetanje

DA*

Tijekom leta

Spuπtanje

DA*

Slijetanje

DA*

Taksiranje

DA*

*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje 174

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ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inﬂight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole ﬂight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the ﬂight.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking ﬂights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s

e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the ﬂight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your ﬂight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in ﬂight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on. List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages. On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors. ■

Use of electronic devices during different ﬂight phases Flight phase

Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)

Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)

Noisecancelling Headphones

Text and phone functions

Boarding

YES

Extended Ground Delay

YES

Taxi-out for Take-off

YES

YES*

Take-off

YES

YES*

Cruise

YES

Descent

YES

YES*

Landing

YES

YES*

Taxi to Stand

YES

YES*

YES

*During critical phases of ﬂight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Renting with Sixt is always rewarding! www.sixt.com/croatia-airlines 176

CROATIA AIRLINES

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FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

•

TRONDHEIM

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau LYON

Turin

PORTO

VENICE

Genoa NICE

Madrid

RIJEKA

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners: Air France

Alitalia

Brussels Airlines

KLM

United Airlines CROATIA AIRLINES

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)O\ WR Dubrovnik

tel: +385 20 773 333, fax: +385 20 773 322 180 CROATIA AIRLINES e-mail: info@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

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ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

4 International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks) Baggage Prtljaga

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

Newstand Novinarnica

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) − Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Rijeka − Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) − Zagreb Airport − Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport − Rijeka − Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL? Dragi putnici!

Iva Bebek

Zahvaljujemo na prekrasnim fotografijama koje nam πaljete s vaπih putovanja. Neka vam proljetno sunce bude nadahnuÊe za nastajanje nekih novih snimaka. ©aljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Pobjednika Êemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa, a dva Êe dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. U ovom broju putnoga Ëasopisa, dvije povratne karte Croatia Airlinesa osvojila je autorica najbolje fotografije Iva Bebek. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Anitu Plazibat i Kim Roberts. I dalje vas pozivamo da svoj odmor planirate s Croatia Airlinesom te da nam πaljete vaπe fotografije s neobiËnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja, jer i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vas vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte!

Dear passengers!

Anita Plazibat

Novi svijet pred vaπim oËima A new world in front of you.

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us of your travels. We hope the spring sunlight will inspire you to take many new ones. Send us your photos, accompanied by a caption, which explains why you like travelling, and take part in the photo contest. We will award the ﬁrst prize winner with two round-trip tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of his or her choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Iva Bebek for having the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines round-trip tickets. Anita Plazibat and Kim Roberts have won our promotional packages. We would like to invite you to plan your next vacation with Croatia Airlines and we encourage you to keep sending us your photographs of unusual and interesting travel destinations because valuable awards await you, too, in the next issue. Visit our web page at: www.croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), read the terms and conditions, and take part in the contest!

VeËera vani ne bi nikada trebala biti dosadna... Zato volim putovati sve dok ne naem savrπeno mjesto. Dining out should never be dull... that’s why I love to travel until I ﬁnd the perfect spot.

182

Kim Roberts

Tko ne voli putovati, taj se nikada nije istinski zaljubio u æivot. If you don’t like travelling, you have never fallen in love with life.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 18:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 15:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt 60 313 Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München 85 356 München Flughafen/Airport Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Ebene 4. Büro 4.1319 Tel. (+49-89) 975-92-730 Fax (+49-89) 975-92-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr

184

ADDRESSES Paris 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka 51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Bill Clinton 32, 10031 Prishtina Tel. +381 38 233 833 Fax +381 38 245 845 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal APG - Portugal Viela da Beloura, nº7 − Quinta da Beloura 2710 - 693 Sintra Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT c/Valencia, 266, 4, 1, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 Fax +34 934 880 121 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Turska ZENITH Services Ordu Caddesi, No. 12/1, Laleli Fatih 34134 Istanbul Tel. +90 212 513 2667, gsm +90 533 738 8470 Fax +90 212 512 4234 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr ZENITH Services Istanbul Ataturk Airport Tel. +90 212 465 5023 Fax +90 212 465 4092 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th ﬂoor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Paciﬁc Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 peclpax@ms57.hinet.net

CROATIA AIRLINES

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Where Dubrovnik's timeless beauty meets perfect natural settings Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel 4*

Information and reservations: T +385 52 465 000

www.valamar.com

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offer: Spring ransfer port t free air ay 5 nights st for min

Enjoy this premium hotel on the quiet Babin Kuk peninsula, only minutes away from the world renowned Old Town of Dubrovnik. With unforgettable dining experiences, one of the best wellness centres in the city and the unique blend of authentic Croatian experiences, Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel 4*+ welcomes you any time of year.

3/12/15 12:05 PM