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STAY BALANCED Experience Zagreb’s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafés, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance. The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep. The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers! • Westin Stay Balanced Wellness package • Stay 2 nights | Save 20% FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT RESERVATIONS@WESTINZAGREB.COM
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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com
Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko
Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof
Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ∆ulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ
Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ
Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ
Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ
Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek
Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr
Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec
ISSN 1330-6278
Za nama je još jedno ljeto, puno zanimljivih događaja. Bilo je dinamično, a slična će nam biti i jesen, u koju smo već zakoračili. Hvala vam što ste našu kompaniju odabrali kao vašeg partnera na ovome jesenskom putovanju. Najranije u povijesti tvrtke, 15. srpnja ove godine, prevezli smo našega milijuntog putnika. Dosad je taj rekord držao milijunti putnik zabilježen 18. srpnja 2012. godine. Osobito smo ponosni što su među našim putnicima ovog ljeta bili i naši sjajni sportaši te osvajači medalja na Olimpijskim igrama. Od srca im čestitamo na njihovim uspjesima i zahvaljujemo im što tako predano predstavljaju boje naše zemlje, ma gdje se natjecali. Drago nam je što sve više putnika prepoznaje Hrvatsku kao idealno odredište, ne samo za ljetni odmor, nego i tijekom cijele godine - za upoznavanje naše kulture, umjetnosti, gastronomije, običaja, uličnih festivala i načina života općenito. Stoga ćemo vam i u ovom broju našega časopisa predstaviti hrvatsku baštinu te prirodne ljepote. Naš glavni grad posljednjih je nekoliko godina pojačao gastronomsku ponudu izvrsnim inovativnim i atraktivnim mjestima s domaćom hranom, o čemu možete čitati u našem časopisu. Također, sigurni smo da nećete požaliti ako i ovog prosinca posjetite Zagreb, koji se već etablirao kao nezaobilazno odredište u vrijeme adventa. A možete se zaputiti i do Lipika u Slavoniji, grada s poznatom ergelom lipicanskih konja i termalnim lječilištem. I do Kopačkog rita, prelijepe oaze netaknute prirode. Povod posjetu kontinentalnoj Hrvatskoj također mogu biti mnoge manifestacije, koje se organiziraju tijekom cijele godine, o čemu se možete informirati u našoj stalnoj rubrici Događanja. Volite li više more, zašto ne biste ove jeseni svratili do Lošinja, otoka zdravlja i vitalnosti, čija je blaga klima pogodna za posjet u svako godišnje doba, i ujedno ondje razgledali jedinstveni muzej Apoksiomena, nedavno otvoren? Ili do Šibenika, koji upravo ove godine s novim optimizmom slavi svoj 950. rođendan? Koji god bio razlog vašeg putovanja, veseli nas što prema odredištu letite s nama. Sretno!
Dear passengers, Another summer, filled with interesting events, is now behind us. The summer was dynamic, and the autumn, which has already started, will be no different. Thank you for choosing our company as your partner on this autumn journey. On July 15, the earliest in the history of the company, we recorded our one-millionth passenger. Before that, the millionth passenger was recorded on
D. FabijaniÊ
Alan Grubelić
Poπtovani putnici!
July 18, 2012. We are particularly proud that this summer, our great athletes and Olympic medal winners were also our passengers. We sincerely congratulate them on their success and thank them for their commitment to the sport and for representing the colors of our country during the Olympics, and in future competitions. We are glad that more and more passengers are recognizing Croatia as an ideal destination, not only for summer holidays, but also throughout the year - a place where they can get to know our culture, art, gastronomy, customs, street festivals and lifestyle in general. Therefore, in this issue of our magazine, we are featuring articles of Croatian heritage and natural beauties. In recent years, the Croatian capital has enhanced its gastronomic offer due to the many excellent, innovative and attractive places offering local food, which you can read about in our magazine. Also, we are sure you will not regret visiting Zagreb this December. It has already become renowned as a must-see destination at Advent time. You can also visit Lipik in Slavonia, the city with the famous Lipizzaner Horse Farm and a thermal spa. Or Kopački Rit, a beautiful oasis of untouched nature. Another reason to visit continental Croatia is the many events organized throughout the year; more information on these can be found in our regular Events column. If you prefer the sea, why not stop by Lošinj, the island of health and vitality, this autumn? Its mild climate is suitable for a visit in any season. You can also visit the unique, recently-opened Museum of Apoxyomenos. Or you can go to Šibenik, which is celebrating its 950th birthday this year with a sense of new optimism. Whatever the reason for your journey, we are happy to escort you to your final destination. Good luck! Vaš, Sincerely yours,
Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO
SADRÆAJ CONTENTS
6 Razgovor: Numen Hrvatski dizajneri među najboljima na svijetu Instalacija Tape, spoj arhitekture, umjetnosti i dizajna, posljednjih nekoliko godina jednako fascinira publiku europskih, azijskih i australskih gradova. S njezinim autorima na vrhuncu međunarodne karijere razgovarali smo za naš časopis. Interview: Numen Croatian Designers among the Best in the World For the last several years the Tape Installation, combining architecture, art and design, has equally fascinated European, Asian and Australian audiences alike. We have interviewed the creators of this work who are at the peak of their international career.
Jesen/Autumn 2016 www.croatiaairlines.com
20 Baština Jedinstveni muzej Apoksiomena Turisti koji posjećuju otok zdravlja i vitalnosti odsad mogu uživati u jedinstvenome Muzeju Apoksiomena, utemeljenome upravo zato da bi se posjetiteljima Lošinja što bolje predstavio taj nevjerojatni kip.
30 Obala Šibenik, nova mladost Krešimirova grada Spomeničko blago Šibenika nisu samo tvrđave i nadmoćna katedrala Jurja Dalmatinca, nego i slikoviti mali trgovi, živopisne uličice, patricijska palače...
Heritage A Unique Apoxiomenos Museum Tourists who visit the island of health and vitality now have the opportunity to experience the unique Apoxyomenos Museum which was established to present this incredible statue to visitors of Lošinj.
Coast Šibenik, The New Youth of Krešimir’s City Monument treasures of Šibenik are not just forts and the impressive Cathedral of Juraj Dalmatinac, but also the small picturesque squares, lively narrow streets, and patrician palaces...
54 Prirodne ljepote Čudesni Kopački rit Poplavno područje između Dunava i Drave na istoku Hrvatske jedno je od najpoznatijih močvarnih područja u Europi i živi dokaz kako prirodne očuvane rijeke stvaraju nevjerojatnu prirodnu baštinu. Natural Beauties The Wonder of Kopački Rit The flooded area between the Danube and Drava rivers, the easternmost part of Croatia, is one of the most famous wetlands in Europe. Kopački Rit is living proof that naturally preserved rivers create an amazing natural heritage.
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64 Kontinentalna Hrvatska Lipik vas čeka! Danas se Lipik možda najviše povezuje s termalnim lječilištem i glasovitim perivojem. Sve više turista posjećuje Slavoniju pa na toj turi redovito razgledaju i poznatu ergelu lipicanskih konja. Inland Croatia Lipik is waiting for you! Lipik is, nowadays, probably the most wellknown for its thermal baths and its renowned park. An increasing number of tourists have been visiting Slavonia recently and their tour often includes the famous Lipizzaner Horse Farm. 76 Meridijani Saharom u prolazu Pustinja kao da briše nepravdu i razliku. Ondje je naizgled moguće pobjeći od svega. Ondje ste samo vi i pusta divljina... Saharom u prolazu u svom najspektakularnijem izdanju.
94 Gastronomija Gastro Zagreb Posljednjih nekoliko godina Zagreb je pojačao gastronomsku scenu odličnim, inovativnim i atraktivnim mjestima s domaćom hranom, organskim sastojcima i prefinim receptima.
Meridians Passing through the Sahara The desert seemingly erases injustice and personal differences. It seems as if it is possible to get away from everything. It is just you and the desolate wilderness... Sahara in its most spectacular edition.
Gastronomy Gastro Zagreb Zagreb has improved its gastro scene over the last several years with innovative and attractive restaurants offering local homemade food, organic ingredients and numerous tasty recipes.
108 Zagreb Moj Rokov perivoj Možemo li u tom odmjerenom, diskretnom perivoju danas vidjeti obećanje, tražiti uzor za neki budući mogući dom? Je li nam dom, kao svim pravim lutalicama, samo ondje kamo još nismo stigli, tek mala oznaka na karti... Zagreb My Rokov Perivoj Can we, nowadays, see the potential for a possible future home in this balanced, harmonious, discrete park? Like for all true wanderers, is not home only a place we have not yet reached, a small mark on a map?
Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy
122 Umjetnost Boris Bućan, pomicanje granica Njegov rukopis odavno je postao prepoznatljiv i priznat i izvan granica naše zemlje, a njegovi radovi nalaze se u svim najvažnijim muzejima i galerijama svijeta. Art Boris Bućan, pushing the boundaries His signature handwriting has long ago become widely-recognized even beyond the borders of our land; his work can be seen at the most important museums and galleries throughout the world.
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Dubrovnik, StraDun - Placa 1, HrvatSka (FrancHiSee Max Mara) MaxMara.coM
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RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW
Christoph Katzler, Sven Jonke, Nikola Radeljković
Piπe/By Tatjana Bartaković
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Fotografije/Photos Numen/ForUse, Aurelije Cenno
Instalacija Tape, spoj arhitekture, umjetnosti i dizajna, posljednjih šest godina jednako fascinira publiku europskih, azijskih i australskih gradova. S njezinim autorima razgovarali smo za naš časopis. A njihov je stav jedinstven - dizajn u svome širem poimanju može mijenjati okoliš i društvo nabolje. For the last six years, the Tape Installation, combining architecture, art and design, has equally fascinated European, Asian and Australian audiences alike. We have interviewed the creators of this work. Their attitude is unique - in a wider sense, design can better the environment and society.
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Naslonjač Oblique Armchair Oblique (Prostoria)
Idealan je primjer instalacija Tape - spoj dizajna, arhitekture i umjetnosti - koja posljednjih šest godina jednako fascinira publiku europskih, azijskih i australskih gradova. Hibridni karakter Numena/ForUse pogonsko je gorivo za njihova praktična istraživanja različitih disciplina, čije konvencionalnosti brišu nadograđujući se iskustvima. Pasivne konzumente instalacija i predstava, kao i same kazališne aktere - podižu u stanje povećane senzibilnosti stilom koji je punih 15 godina jednako precizan, dosljedan i nadosjetilan, pogađajući duboku strukturu teme kojom se bave. Već vrlo rano, odmah nakon fakulteta, kao grupa izdvojili ste se po zrelom stavu o dizajnu i snažnoj filozofiji rada, koja je možda karakterističnija za umjetnike, nego dizajnere.
Instalacija Tape u Palais de Tokyo, Pariz Tape Installation in Palais de Tokyo, Paris
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a vrhuncu dotadašnje desetogodišnje međunarodne karijere, austrijsko-hrvatski dizajnerski kolektiv Numen/ForUse dizajnirao je namještaj za prestižne dizajnerske brendove poput Capellinija, ClassicCona, Magisa, MDF Italije, Moroso, Interlubke i Zanottu. Naslonjač Satyr, koji je britanski časopis Wallpaper 2007. godine proglasio najboljim komadom namještaja na svijetu, izabran je za glavni motiv interijera uglednoga hrvatskog dizajn hotela Lone u Rovinju. Ali, stojeći na tom raskršću uspjeha, dizajneri Sven Jonke, Christoph Katzler i Nikola Radeljković, sami su sebi odlučili izmaknuti poznato tlo pod nogama zakoračivši u domenu projektiranja kazališnih scenografija i umjetničkih instalacija, koje su ih potpuno oslobodile profesionalne i društvene stege. 8
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Scenografija za predstavu Rat i mir L.N. Tolstoja Theatre scenography for Leo Tolstoy's War and Peace
U predstavi Kralj Lear korištena je fotelja Oblique (Prostoria)
Urbani namještaj za splitsku rivu Urban equipment for Split waterfront
Domagoj Blažević
Oblique Armchair (Prostoria) was used in the King Lear theatre performance
Instalacija Net Rovinj u predvorju novog hotela Amarin Net Rovinj installation in the foyer of the new Amarin Hotel
- Ono što nas je u tom trenutku, negdje u početku tisućljeća, odvojilo od hrvatskog prosjeka bio je svjesni i dosljedni prekid s eklektičnim postmodernizmom koji je tada neutemeljeno harao hrvatskom arhitektonskom i dizajnerskom praksom. Postmodernizam, barem po našemu mišljenju, ima smisla samo u sredinama u kojima je provedena i proživljena modernizacija, a kao što znamo, u Hrvatskoj to nažalost (ili nasreću) nije slučaj. U tim smo formativnim godinama i pretjerivali s rigidnošću prema naručiteljima, sadržaju i kontekstu, ali baš smo zbog te dosljednosti i tvrdoglavosti postigli priznanje i prepoznatljivost. Ali tijekom proteklih petnaestak godina
Namještaj za Design Hotel Lone u Rovinju Furniture in Design Hotel Lone in Rovinj CROATIA AIRLINES
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naučili smo izlaziti ususret naručitelju, ulaziti dublje u kontekst, igrati se. Paralelno smo razvili i određenu dozu autoironije. Ono što se nije promijenilo jest naš stav da dizajn, u svome širem poimanju, može mijenjati okoliš i društvo nabolje, a da dizajner ne može raditi svoj posao dobro na temelju imaginarnih, objektivnih parametara, istraživanja tržišta i trendova, nego da stalno i uvijek mora imati na umu svoga najzahtjevnijega i najkritičnijeg korisnika, samog sebe. Svojim dizajnom uspjeli ste zainteresirati najznačajnije europske dizajnbrendove u sferi namještaja, o Vama su pisale respektabilni strani mediji, a onda - gotovo na vrhuncu tog probitka - okrenuli ste se razvoju instalacija i kazališnih scenografija. Što se dogodilo?
komercijalnih uporabnih predmeta. Uz to nas je privukla i mogućnost slobodne interpretacije teksta, humora i ironije. Prostorni eksperimenti poput instalacije Tape, koji su nastali naknadno kao izravni nusproizvodi bavljenja scenografijom - otvorili su nam nove kreativne i poslovne perspektive te nas dodatno oslobodili stega i konvencija svih disciplina. Približite nam Vaše gledište na hibridnost kojom se koristite kao svojevrsnim pogonskim gorivom za rad u različitim disciplinama i što vam je ona donijela. - Hibrid je vrsta koja nastaje mješavinom različith vrsta, a ima karakteristike i jednog i drugog roditelja. Nešto što izmiče jednostavnoj i jednostranoj definiciji. Za nas je hibridnost prije svega pitanje identiteta. Za početak sva smo trojica hibridi čiji su se osobni identiteti razvijali
i zbog toga je bitno kontinuirano propitivati smislenost granica disciplina. Specijalizacije su donijeli ljudi koji su stručnjaci u svojim partikularnim poslovima, ali njihova znanja nemaju stvarnih, opipljivih rezultata, jer zadržali su se u sklopu svog stručnog kruga. Jedan od najboljih primjera transdisciplinarnosti naših projekata jest instalacija Tape, koja je počela studijom scenografije za nepostojeću predstavu. Ideja je bila da plesači ostavljaju trag svog kretanja u prostoru, tako da rezultat predstavlja trodimenzionalnu mapu koreografije. Izrađujući modele od selotejpa, zapazili smo da se omatanjem osnovnih tetiva stvaraju kompleksne organske forme, a nakon prve realizacije u galeriji Hrvatskoga dizajnerskog društva shvatili smo da kompozit slijepljenih slojeva selotejpa ima čvrstoću dostatnu za
Instalacija Tape
Stolac YY za Moroso, 2011.
Tape Installation
YY Chair for Moroso, 2011
- Došli smo do točke u kojoj bi najoportunija odluka bila trajno preseljenje u Milano i otvaranje studija sa stalno zaposlenim suradnicima, a nama se ta perspektiva nije previše sviđala. Istodobno smo dobili prigodu realizirati u Madridu spektakularnu scenografiju za predstavu Tomaža Pandura, kojega, nažalost, više nema s nama. Uslijedile su druge suradnje u kazalištu, s Ivicom Buljanom, Paolom Magellijem, Januszem Kicom i najviše s Aleksandrom Popovskim. Sve to vrijeme mi smo i dalje dizajnirali proizvode, ali s manjim intenzitetom i opsegom. Osim toga što smo bili zasićeni dizajniranjem stolaca, rad u kazalištu pomogao nam je u smislu oslobađanja od nekih samonametnutih načela kojih smo se u jednom razdoblju slijepo pridržavali. Otvorio nam se prostor igre i eksperimenta, nedostupan u sferi dizajna 10
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u raznim državama, društvima i okružjima. Dizajn je kao poziv a priori hibridan jer uvijek povezuje različite profesije bez kojih se projekti ne mogu realizirati. Nama je predstavljalo ugodno osvježenje komunicirati i surađivati s drugim ljudima iz drugih disciplina, a kako ne pripadamo ni u jednu interesnu skupinu, scenu ili školu, nismo bili obvezni ponašati se i raditi stvari sukladno ustanovljenim obrascima ponašanja i uzusima. Drugim riječima, hibridnost nas je oslobodila profesionalne i društvene stege koja gotovo uvijek rezultira vladavinom, u najboljem slučaju, mediokriteta. Kakvo je u praksi primjenjivanje ideja i metodologija karakterističnih za jednu disciplinu u drugoj? - Često su zamisli neostvarive unutar postojećih profesionalnih modela i konvencija
nošenje težine ljudskog tijela. Tako smo od scenografije prešli na privremenu arhitekturu. Paradoks je nastao kad smo, nakon nekoliko realiziranih instalacija, dobili prigodu realizirati projekt u izvornom kontekstu, kao scenografiju koja nastaje tijekom predstave, a rezultat je, nažalost, bio ispod očekivanja. To znači da ideja u svom izvornom kontekstu nije adekvatno funkcionirala, ali kad je prešla u drugi medij, ostvarila je svoj puni potencijal. Ima li porijeklo Vaših instalacija analogni ili digitalni predznak? Naime, njihov finalni izgled nalikuje na savršenu analognu kopiju digitalnog renderinga. - Mi stalno boravimo na granici između analognoga i digitalnoga. Sve naše instalacije - Numen Light, Tape, Net - izgledaju superdigitalne, kao da su nastale iz renderinga, ali
nisu. Smatramo da ih je čak lakše napraviti analogno, kao što mi radimo, koristeći se metodologijom izrade prototipa iz sfere produkta dizajna. Prvo nastaje koncept koji najčešće polazi od nekoga banalnoga, jeftinoga i dostupnog materijala od kojega, metodom pokušaja i pogreške, pokušavamo proizvesti strukture koje mogu postati privremena ljudska nastamba. Poigravanje percepcijom, provociranje intelektualnih i osjetilnih senzora posjetitelja namjerni su i svjesni. Veza između analognoga i digitalnoga nije posljedica naše namjere nego suvremene dominacije virtualnih slika. Nakon što smo otkrili tu povezanost, namjerno je potenciramo i problematiziramo, poigravamo se njome, naglašavajući mogućnost postizanja spektakularnih prostornih senzacija najjednostavnijim, svima dostupnim
titelji su u startu inkomodirani, ali i uzbuđeni, i to uzrokuje razbijanje društvenih okova. Ulazak u naše privremene prostore početno izaziva nelagodu koja nastaje kao posljedica uskraćenosti imaginarne sigurnosti, kojom smo svakodnevno okruženi. Sigurnosni standardi, koji se u razvijenom svijetu stalno povećavaju, izrazito su represivni i stvaraju naraštaje koji su nesposobi za funkcioniranje u stvarnim prirodnim uvjetima što nikad nisu statični i nepromjenjivi. Mislim da je naš primarni cilj uvijek neka provokacija autoriteta u arhitekturi, dizajnu pa i šire, u društvu. Na jednak način u kazalištu pomičete granice shvaćanja i projektiranja scenografije. One postaju aktivni dinamički elementi predstave i snažno vizualno izražavaju unutrašnji život teksta i cjelokupne predstave. Kako to postižete? - Počinjemo iz pozicije da predstavu gledamo kao metaforu, a scenografiju kao opredmećenje jednoga ili više njezinih aspekata, koji mora biti konceptualno jasan. Naša je scenografija poput stroja koji dajemo na korištenje glumcima i redateljima, čije funkcije oni istražuju, često rabeći elemente scenografije za namjene za koje ih mi nismo predvidjeli. Naša je uloga potaknuti cijeli ansambl da otkrije nešto novo u sebi, kao da je scenografija neko pojačalo glumačke energije.
A Instalacija Net Net Installation
sredstvima, bez nužnosti primjene najsuvremenijih, sofisticiranih tehnologija. Ideja Vaših instalacija nije isključivo u pasivnom promatranju, nego interakciji uza svojevrstan katarktički doživljaj, kao u kazalištu. Kako to uspijevate postići? - Naše su instalacije bez posjetitelja prazne ljušture, vulgarni pokušaji monumentalne plastike. Kad se korisnici nasele u svoje privremeno obitavalište, instalacije dobivaju smisao. Katarza tu nastaje u trenutku kada promatrač ili publika postaju akteri javnog performansa, što kod većine ljudi rezultira oslobađajućom regresijom, potiče na problematiziranje uvriježenih prostornih i društvenih dogmi. Naše instalacije funkcioniraju na principu walk-in koji počinje u trenutku ulaska, prilikom kojega posjetitelj gubi stabilnost pod nogama. Posje-
t the peak of their ten-year international career, the Austrian-Croatian design collective, Numen/ForUse, has designed furniture for prestigious design brands such as Capellini, ClassicCon, Magis, MDF Italy, Moroso, Interlubke and Zanotta. The Satyr easychair, which the British magazine, Wallpaper, proclaimed as the best piece of furniture in the world in 2007, was chosen as the main motif for the interior of the renowned Croatian design hotel - Lone in Rovinj. However, standing at the crossroads of success, designers Sven Jonke, Christoph Katzler and Nikola Radeljković decided to step out of their comfort zone into the domain of designing theatre scenography and art installations, which completely freed them from the constraints of their professional and social discipline. An ideal example of this is the Tape installation - a mix of design, architecture and art, which has fascinated the public in European, Asian and Australian cities alike for six years now. The hybrid character of Numen/ ForUse is the fuel for their practical exploration of various disciplines whose conventionality they erase by building on experience. They put the passive consumers of installations and plays, as well as the theatre performers them-
selves, into a state of increased sensibility with a style that has been equally precise for 15 years now - consistent and super-sensory, indicate the deep structure of the theme they work with. Very early on, straight out of university, as a group, you stood out with your mature attitude towards design and a strong work philosophy, which might be more characteristic of artists than designers. ∑ What separated us from the Croatian average at that time, back at the turn of the millennium, was our conscious and consistent separation from eclectic postmodernism, which had then been, unfoundedly, dominating Croatian architecture and design practices. In our opinion, postmodernism only makes sense in societies which have undergone modernisation and, as we already know, this is unfortunately (or fortunately) not the case in Croatia. During those formative years, we were overly rigid in our approach towards clients, content and context, but that consistency and persistence is what we were acknowledged for, and what gave us recognisability. However, over the last fifteen years or so, we have learned to be more flexible towards clients, to get deeper into the context and play around. We have developed a certain amount of auto-irony. What has not changed is our position that design, in its wider context, can change the environment and society for the better; designers cannot do their job well based on imaginary objective parameters, market research and trends, but they must always take into consideration their most demanding and most critical user - themselves. Your designs have managed to intrigue the most significant European furniture design brands, and respectable media publications have written about you, but then - almost at the peak of your success, you turned to the development of installations and theatre scenography. What happened? ∑ We came to a point where the most opportunistic decision would have been to permanently move to Milan and open a studio with full-time employees, but that prospect did not interest us too much. At the same time, in Madrid, we got an opportunity to create spectacular scenography for a play by Tomaž Pandur, who is, unfortunately, no longer with us. We, then, worked with Ivica Buljan, Paolo Magelli, Janusz Kic, but mainly with Aleksandar Popovski. The entire time, we continued to design products, but with lesser intensity and scope. Apart from the fact we were fed up with designing chairs, working in CROATIA AIRLINES
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theatre helped us in terms of freeing ourselves from some self-imposed principles which we had once blindly adhered to. We created space for playing and experimenting, a condition not available in the design of commercial and practical items. Apart from that, we were attracted to the possibility of free interpretation of text, humour and irony. Spatial experiments, such as the Tape installation, which were created additionally as direct by-products of our scenography work, opened up new and creative business prospects for us, and freed us from the restraints and conventions of all disciplines.
Naslonjač Polygon / Polygon Armchair (Prostoria) / Excellent Product Design 2015 Winner, German Design Council
Tell us more about your view of hybridity, which you use as a fuel of sorts in your work in various disciplines, and what it has given you. ∑ A hybrid is a mixed thing that has the characteristics of both parents. It is something that does not have a simple and one-sided definition. For us, hybridity is a question of identity above all. For starters, all three of us are hybrids whose personal identities have developed in different countries, societies and environments. Design as a calling is, a priori, a hybrid, because it always connects various professions without which, particular projects could not be realized. For us, it was pleasantly refreshing to communicate and work with different people from other disciplines, and since we do not fall into any interest group, scene 12
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or school, we did not have to behave and do things in accordance with the determined patterns. In other words, hybridity freed us of our professional and social restraints, which almost always results in mediocrity at best. What does applying ideas and methodologies characteristic of one discipline in a different one look like in practice? ∑ Oftentimes, ideas are unrealizable within the existing professional models and conventions, and that is why it is important to continuously push the boundaries. Specialists were brought in, experts in their respective fields, but their knowledge did not lead to real, tangible results because they remained within the framework of their area of expertise. One of the best examples of how interdisciplinary our projects are is the Tape installation, which started off as a study for scenography for a non-existent play. The idea was that dancers in the play leave a trace of their movements in the space, so the result would be a three dimensional map of the choreography. Building Tape models, we noticed that complex organic forms were created by wrapping the basic tendons, and after the first realization at the gallery of the Croatian Design Association, we realized that the composite of layers that were stuck together had enough strength to support the weight of a human body. That is how we switched from scenography to temporary architecture. Paradoxically, after several realized installations, we got an opportunity to realize the project in its original context, as scenography created during the play, but the result was, unfortunately, below our expectations. That means that the idea in its original context did not function adequately, but when it switched to another medium, it realized its full potential. Does the origin of your installations have an analogue or digital prefix? I ask because their final look is like a perfect analogue copy of a digital rendering. ∑ We are always on the border of analogue and digital. All of our installations - Numen Light, Tape, and Net look super digital, as if created from a rendering, but they are not. We think it is even easier to make them in an analogue way, like we do, by using the methodology of creating prototypes from the sphere of product design. First, a concept is conceived, which usually begins with a banal, cheap and widely-available material, and through trial and error, we strive to create structures that can become a temporary accommodation for humans. Playing with perception and provoking the intellectual and sensory sensors of visitors are deliberate and conscious. The connection between the analogue and digital
is not a consequence of our intention, but a contemporary domination of virtual images. After we discover the connection, we intentionally potentiate it, we play with it, accentuating the possibility of achieving spectacular spatial sensations with the simplest, most widely-available means, without the necessity of resorting to the most contemporary and sophisticated technologies. The idea of your installations is not only about passive observation, but also about interaction with a cathartic experience of sorts, like in a theatre. How do you manage to achieve this? ∑ Our installations are empty shells without visitors, just vulgar attempts at monumental plastic. When the users move into their temporary habitat, the installations achieve their purpose. The catharsis occurs at the moment the observer or the audience becomes a participant in a public performance. For most people, this results in a liberating regression, it encourages the problematizing of widely-accepted spatial and social dogmas. Our installations function on the walk-in principle, which begins at the moment of entry, when visitors lose stable footing. At first, the visitors are disturbed, but also excited, which causes the breaking of social shackles. Entry into our temporary spaces initially causes an unpleasant feeling, which is a consequence of the lack of an imaginary safety, which we are surrounded by every day. The safety standards that constantly increase in the developed world are extremely repressive and they create generations that are incapable of functioning under real natural conditions, which are never static and unchanging. I think our primary goal has always been to provoke the powers that be in architecture, design and beyond - in our society. In the same way, you move the boundaries of understanding and design scenography in theatre. It is an active designing, dynamic element of any play and it visually expresses the inner life of a text and the entire play. How do you achieve this? ∑ We begin from the standpoint of looking at a play as a metaphor, and we look at scenography as an itemization of one or more of its aspects, which has to be conceptually clear. Our scenography is like a machine we let the actors and directors use, and whose functionality they explore, often using the elements of the scenography for purposes that we had not anticipated. Our role is to encourage the entire ensemble to discover something new in themselves, as if the scenography was an enhancer of the actors’ energies.
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The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.
To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijal- nog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvat skoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. pro sinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the of ficial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cul tural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, 14
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Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, na tural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.
Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spome nicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povije snih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËk i spome nici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sak ralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeurops kog a kulturnog krug a i istiË e se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvor cima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spo menicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Diok lecijanova palaËa, pregra ena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazili ka u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park Plit viËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent even ts of history and the interlacing of influences of dif ferent cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influe nces of Mediterranean culture, num erou s anc ie nt rem ai ns, mon um ents of the Rom an era and early Midd le Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of dis tinc tive Med iterr an ea n urb an entitie s that have been preser ved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, for tres ses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian citie s and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocleti an, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik.
Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sre dozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2015. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 14,343.323 turista, od kojih je stranih 12,683.179. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima 71,605.315 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog aviopri jevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautoc esta Hrvats ka je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su po srijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has bee n a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and in ternational experts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded about 14,34 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2015, of whom around 12,68 million were foreign tourists. Tourists realized 71,605,315 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing
excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kun a je na z iv novË an e jed in ic e Rep ub like Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim karticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.
Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kun a (kn). In circ ul at io n are bank notes in Kun a and coins in Kun a and Lip a (lp) ∑ one hund red th of a Kun a. The bank notes are issue d in the foll ow ing den om in at io ns: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kun a, while the den om in at io n struct ur e of the coi ns is 1, 2 and 5 Kun a and 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lip a (100 Lip a = 1 Kun a). Paym ents can be mad e by cred it card (Din ers, Vis a, Amer ic an Ex pres s, Eur oc ard and Mas terc ard), as well as euro-check s. Cas h can be with drawn from ATM s.
ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer
motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage CROATIA AIRLINES
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Croatia KVARNER
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turistiÄ?ka zajednica kvarnera the kvarner county tourism office 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2 t +385 (0)51 623 333, 272 988 e kvarner@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr
Croatia’s best kept secret
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Baština Heritage
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JEDINSTVENI MUZEJ APOKSIOMENA U LOŠINJU A UNIQUE APOXYOMENOS MUSEUM IN LOŠINJ
Piπe/By Slobodan Bukvić CROATIA AIRLINES
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V Turisti koji posjećju otok zdravlja i vitalnosti, kako često nazivaju Lošinj, odsad mogu uživati i u jedinstvenome Muzeju Apoksiomena, utemeljenome upravo zato da bi se što bolje posjetiteljima predstavio taj nevjerojatni kip, kao savršena
jerojatno je to bila igra sudbine kada je jedinstveni kip Apoksiomena pronađen nakon više od 2000 godina upravo u Lošinjskom arhipelagu. To predivno otočje na sjevernom Jadranu, kao i kip Apoksiomena, simbolizira zdravlje i vitalnost. Očito se uplela uzajamna sudbina, ali i povlastica, kako za poznati hrvatski turistički dragulj Lošinj, tako i za arheološki vrlo vrijedan brončani kip Apoksiomena, koji je odnedavno stalno izložen u suvremeno uređenome Muzeju Apoksiomena u Malom Lošinju. Ova nevjerojatna pripovijest o jednome lijepom otoku i jedinstvenom kipu Apoksiomena počela je 1997. godine kada je belgijski turist − sportski ronilac slučajno otkrio pokraj nekog otočića u Lošinjskom arhipelagu neobični kip prekriven školjkama i morskim travama. Nakon što je pažljivo obavljena detaljna stručna priprema za vađenje toga zanimljivog otkrića iz podmorja, kip je ugledao svjetlo dana 1999. godine.
Naziv Apoksiomena dolazi od grčke riječi apoxyomenos, što znači onaj koji se struže. U duhu antičkog vremena i njegovanja zdravog duha u zdravom tijelu, često su se održavala natjecanja u borilačkim vještinama mladih atleta. Ovaj brončani kip Apoksiomena visok je 192 cm i predstavlja sportaša u trenutku kada čisti svoju strugaljku, poslije vježbanja ili natjecanja, od prašine, ulja i znoja. Iako u svijetu danas postoji još osam primjeraka ove vrste antičkih kipova, ovaj lošinjski jedinstven je po tome što je pronađen gotovo u cijelosti. Njegov najbliži brončani primjerak pronađen je 1896. godine u Efezu. Rekonstruiran je iz gotovo 234 sitnih dijelova i danas se nalazi u Povijesno - umjetničkome muzeju u Beču (Kunsthistorische Museum, Wien). Muzej Apoksiomena u Malom Lošinju svečano je otvoren potkraj travnja ove godine. Nalazi se u središtu Malog Lošinja, na Rivi, u lijepoj Palači Kvarner, koja je također vrlo zanimljiva. Riječki arhitekti Idis Turato i Saša Randić preu-
Nakon prvoga pažljivog skidanja morskih naslaga, desalinizacije i osnovne restauracije, moglo se prepoznati da je riječ o vrlo dragocjenom arheološkom nalazu. Kip je predstavljao prototip grčkog Apoksiomena iz 4. stoljeća prije Krista. Procjenjuje se da je toga lošinjskog Apoksiomena izradio nepoznati autor iz 2. ili 1. stoljeća prije Krista. U to vrijeme bila je vrlo razvijena pomorska trgovina, između ostaloga, i grčkim originalnim antikvitetima te njihovim kopijama. Pretpostavlja se da je ovaj kip Apoksiomena bio bačen u more iz neke galije u Lošinjskom arhipelagu tijekom nevremena zbog prekomjernog tereta ili kao žrtva bogovima za spas galije i ljudi. To se dogodilo najvjerojatnije u 1. stoljeću prije Krista.
redili su vrlo kreativno i maštovito unutrašnjost Palače u modernome i futurističkom stilu. Svrha stvaranja tog Muzeja bila je da vješto arhitektonski i dizajnerski prezentira taj jedinstveni kip Apoksiomena kao savršena skulptura koja se nalazi izvan svakog vremenskog i fizičkog konteksta, te istodobno izvede uzbudljiv i razumljiv suvremeni muzejski postav. U Muzeju Apoksiomena vrlo se uspješno dočarava Apoksiomenova priča od njegova pronalaska, restauaracije pa do veličanstvenog povratka na svoj otok zdravlja i vitalnosti. Muzej se sastoji od devet specifičnih programskih prostorno i vremenski oblikovanih scena, ali s dovoljno izraženim naglaskom na ono najvažnije i najvrednije - arheološki
skulptura koja se nalazi izvan svakoga vremenskoga i fizičkog konteksta te kako bi istodobno uživali u uzbudljivome i razumljivome suvremenome Fotografije / Photos: Maja Bosnić & Ivan Dorotić za Muzej Apoksiomena/ Maja Bosnić & Ivan Dorotić for Apoxyomenos Museum
muzejskom postavu. Tourists who visit the island of health and vitality, as Lošinj is often called, now have an opportunity to experience the unique Apoxyomenos Museum, which was established to present this incredible statue to visitors, a perfect sculpture beyond time or physical context; it’s also where visitors can enjoy other exciting yet understandable contemporary museum exhibits.
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UNDERGRADUATE PROGRAMS | 240 ECTS > Economics and Management > Business Law and Economics > Business Mathematics and Economics
GRADUATE STUDY PROGRAMS | 60 ECTS > MBA Program > Executive MBA Program > Executive MBA in HRM
SUMMER PROGRAMS | 4–12 ECTS > Summer School > Summer Negotiations Languages instruction: 24 of CROATIA AIRLINES Croatian and English Apply at www.zsem.hr.
postav muzeja, originalni kip Apoksiomena. Već ulaz u muzej i njegovo Plavo prizemlje naviješta osobit ugođaj i doživljaj koji slijedi. Posjet muzeju predviđen je u manjim skupinama, s točno određenim slijedom, tako da se učinkovito i edukativno te zanimljivo prezentira njegov sadržaj. Najvažnije mjesto u muzeju jest programski nazvana Bijela soba, u kojoj se nalazi originalni brončani kip Apoksiomena. Uistinu je naglašena, najviše što je moguće, ljepota, skladnost i savršenost izrade tog kipa nepoznatog autora. Posjetiocima zaista zastaje dah od ushićenja te istinskog divljenja pred tim remek-djelom bezvremenskog prostora. Savršenstvo izrade očituje se i u detaljima na usnama Apoksiomena, koja su izrađena od bakrenih umetaka crvenkaste boje. Ugođaju savršene prezentacije kipa pridonijela je i arhitektica Vanja Ilić, dizajnerskim i svjetlosnim efektima. Zbog uloženoga timskog rada vrijednih restauratora iz više zemalja ne može se ne spomenuti takozvani Prolaz maslina na ulazu u Bijelu sobu, gdje se nalazi nagrada Europa Nostra, koju je još 2007. godine dobio Hrvatski restauratorski zavod za ovaj projekt, nazvan Hrvatski Apoksiomen. U Žutoj sobi muzeja postavljeni su svi do sada objavljeni članci i prilozi o Muzeju Apoksiomena u domaćim te stranim medijima. Taj prostor već je premalen za sve do sada objavljene medijske priloge. Kolika je popularnost jedinstvenoga lošinjskog Apoksiomena svjedoči i podatak da je već prije stalnog izlaganja u Muzeju u Lošinju doživio veličanstvenu pohvalu u svjetskim i renomiranim umjetničkim prostorima i muzejima poput Palazzo Medici Riccardi u Firenci (2006./7.); Musee du Louvre (2012.), British Museum (2015.) i J. Paul Getty Museum u Los Angelesu (2015.). Osobito je zanimljiva inventivno dizajnirana Šarena soba, u kojoj se prikazuje dokumentarni fim o slijedu postupka vađenja Apoksiomena iz mora u Lošinjskom arhipelagu te njegova višegodišnja stručna obrada i restauracija.
U programskoj Crnoj sobi prikazani su samo neki od ukupno osam drugih kipova Apoksiomena, poput već spomenutoga, najsličnijega brončanog kipa iz Efeza, koji se nalazi u Beču, zatim mramorni kip atleta u Firenzi, atlet sa strugaljkom iz Bostona te kip atleta iz Vatikana. Lošinj ima i mnoge druge povijesno-kulturne znamenitosti poput Gradskog muzeja u palači Fritzy, koja je zanimljiva jer je iz 15. stoljeća. Zatim Muzej Kula i Galerija nu Velom Lošinju, mnoge crkve i kapelice, renesansne vile te one iz vremena Austro-Ugarske. Istodobno uza sve te povijesno-kulturne znamenitosti postoje i životne priče tih znamenitosti, ispunjene vječnim ljudskim motivima i sudbinama povezanih sa strahom, ljubavlju i nadanjima. No Muzej Apoksiomena i njegov veličanstven brončani kip uistinu je specifična i jedinstvena pripovijest.
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t must have been destiny when a unique Apoxyomenos statue was found after more than 2000 years in the Lošinj archipelago. These beautiful islands in the northern Adriatic, as well as the Apoxyomenos statue itself, symbolize health and vitality. It is clearly a case of mutual destiny and privilege for the renowned jewel of Croatian tourism - Lošinj, and the archaeologically valuable bronze statue of Apoxyomenos, which has recently been exhibited in the modern Apoxyomenos Museum in Mali Lošinj. This incredible story of a beautiful island and a unique Apoxyomenos statue began in 1997, when a Belgian tourist and recreational diver accidentally discovered an unusual statue covered with shells and sea algae next to a small island in the Lošinj archipelago. After meticulous and specialized preparations for the recovery of this interesting find from the sea, the statue surfaced in the light of day in 1999. After undergoing cleaning, desalinization and basic renovations, it became clear that the statue was a very valuable archaeological discovery. The statue is a representation of a
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prototype of the Greek Apoxyomenos dating back to the 4th century B.C. It is estimated that the Apoxyomenos from Lošinj was made by an unknown sculptor in the 2nd or 1st century B.C. Maritime trade was very well developed at the time, and popular items were original Greek antiques as well as their replicas. It is assumed that this Apoxyomenos statue was thrown overboard from a ship in the Lošinj archipelago as extra weight in bad weather, or as a sacrifice to the Gods in hopes that the ship and crew would be spared. This most likely occurred in the 1st century B.C. The Greek word apoxyomenos means the scraper. In the spirit of antiquity, and nurturing a healthy spirit in a healthy body, young athletes oftentimes participated in martial arts competitions. This particular bronze Apoxyomenos statue is 192 centimetres tall; it represents an athlete who is using a special tool, called a strigil by the Romans, to scrape dust, oil and sweat from his body after a workout or a competition. Although there are eight other examples of this sort of antique statue in the world today, the one from Lošinj is unique because it was discovered almost entirely intact. The most similar bronze example was discovered in 1896 in Ephesus. It was rebuilt from almost 234 tiny pieces and is, nowadays, exhibited in the Museum of Art History (Kunsthistorische Museum) in Vienna. The Apoxyomenos Museum in Mali Lošinj was opened in late April this year and it is located in the centre of town, housed in the very interesting Kvarner Palace on the promenade. The interior of the palace was renovated into a museum in a modern, futuristic style by the architects from Rijeka - Idis Turato and Saša Randić. The goal and intention behind the museum was to present this unique Apoxyomenos statue, with its skillful architecture and design, as a perfect sculpture outside any physical context of time, and to present an exciting and comprehensible contemporary museum exhibit. The Apoxyomenos Museum successfully tells the story of the Apoxyomenos since its discovery and renovation to its return to the island of health and vitality. The museum consists of nine specific scenes in space and time, but with emphasis on the most important and valuable aspect - the museum’s archaeological exhibit - the original Apoxyomenos statue. The entrance to the museum and its blue ground floor embody a particular atmosphere and foreshadow the experience which follows. Visits to the museum are intended for smaller groups, which pass through the museum in a specific order so that visitors can experience it in the most efficient and educative manner. 26
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The most important place in the museum is the so called White Room, which houses the original bronze Apoxyomenos statue. The beauty, harmony and perfection of this statue by an unknown creator are truly accentuated. Visitors are left breathless and in genuine awe of this timeless masterpiece. The statue’s perfections are evident in the details on the Apoxyomenos’ lips, which were sculpted with reddish copper inserts. The perfect presentation of the statue, with design and lighting effects, can be credited to the architect Vanja Ilic. Due to considerable teamwork by diligent renovators from several countries, we must mention the so-called Olive Passage at the entrance to the White Room, which houses the Europa Nostra award, won in 2007 by the Croatian Conservation Institute for this project called the Croatian Apoxyomenos. The museum’s Yellow Room features articles about the Apoxyomenos Museum, published in Croatian and foreign media, which has already proven too small to contain all the materials published thus far. The unique Apoxyomenos of Lošinj is so popular that it has been exhibited in several globally renowned museums, such as the Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence (2006/2007); the Musee du Louvre (2012), the British Museum (2015) and the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles (2015), before being put on permanent display at the Lošinj museum. The inventively designed Colourful Room is particularly interesting; it features screenings of a documentary film, which depicts the Apoxyomenos’ recovery from the sea, and its specialized renovations over several years. The Black Room features images of just a few of the total eight known apoxyomenos statues, including the aforementioned bronze statue from Ephesus, exhibited in Vienna, the marble statue of an athlete in Florence, an athlete with a strigil from Boston, and a statue of an athlete from the Vatican. Apart from the Apoxyomenos Museum, Lošinj has many other historic and cultural landmarks, such as the City Museum located in the Fritzy Palace, which is interesting because it dates back to the 15th century. Furthermore, there is the Tower Museum and Gallery in Veli Lošinj, numerous churches and chapels, as well as villas from the Renaissance period and the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. At the same time, apart from all of the historic and cultural landmarks, there are also life stories of all of these sites, filled with eternal human motivations and destinies all intertwined with fear, love and hope. However, the Apoxyomenos Museum and its magnificent bronze statue truly are a unique story. 28
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EXPLORE PULA AND MEDULIN WITH PARK PLAZA
Discover the natural beauty of the Istrian Peninsula at four outstanding Park Plaza beach resorts overlooking the crystal-blue Adriatic. parkplaza.com arenaturist.com #parkplazamoments
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NOVA MLADOST KREŠIMIROVA GRADA THE NEW YOUTH OF KREŠIMIR’S CITY Šibenik 950. obljetnicu obilježava novim optimizmom. Odrekao se industrijaliziranog sivila, a tek otkriva golemi prirodni, kulturni i spomenički potencijal u borbi za što veći komad turističkog kolača. Šibenik is marking its 950th birthday with new optimism. It has denounced the industrialized greyness, and has been discovering its natural and cultural potential in the struggle for as large a piece of the tourism cake as possible. Piπe/By Davorka Grenac Fotografije/Photos Alan Grubelić
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OBALa COAST
Pogled na Šibenik i okolicu s tvrđave Barone View of Šibenik from Barone Fortress CROATIA AIRLINES
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Pogled na Šibenik s plaže Banj View of Šibenik from Banj Beach
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e siječanjske večeri četiri snopa laserskih zraka, odaslanih s četiri drevne tvrđave, križale su se nad nebom Šibenika. Uz mnogobrojne goste, prigodne govore, pjenušac i pogled na noćni Šibenik, svečano je otvorena jedna od njih, obnovljena tvrđava Barone, starim Šibenčanima poznata kao Šubićevac, a sada preimenova po barunu Degenfeldu, Nijemcu u službi Mletačke Republike, vođi obrane Šibenika od navale Osmanlija. Nasađena na brdu Vidakuša, danju s nje seže najljepši pogled na Kanal svetog Ante, šibenski arhipelag i kupolu poznate katedrale. Savršena atrakcija za turiste koji svakom godinom sve više naviru u Krešimirov grad. Uz tvrđavu Sv. Mihovil, obnovljenu i pretvorenu u ljetnu pozornicu prije dvije godine, grad je s pomlađenom Barone, sagrađenom sredinom 17. stoljeća, ušao u jubilarnu 2016., kada bilježi 950 godina od prvog spomena svoga imena u darovnici hrvatskog vladara Petra Krešimira IV. Da nije bilo tih tvrđava i one Sv. Ivana sagrađene istodobno kada Barone, te Sv. Nikole u Kanalu sv. Ante, s kojih se grad branio od provale Osmanlija na obalu, povijest bi u ovom dijelu Dalmacije vjerojatno krenula drukčijim tokom. - Šibenik je za mene bio tek zamorni predah između vlakova i brodova. Odmah nakon
svitanja naporna utrka od kolodvora do broda za Zlarin, pa tek onda ono pravo sunce, more, druženje i ribarenje, vino i masline. Za tvrdoglave bodule Šibenik je oduvijek bio samo stanica, luka i tržnica, za nestrpljive turiste tek zagušeni odvojak na magistrali između Vodica i Primoštena, a za umišljene sveznalice puka talionica aluminija za priučene težake. Neka Dalmacija bez prave Dalmacije, ili surovo kopno koje se samo slučajno naslonilo na more... - opisao je novinar i diplomat Dražen Vukov Colić svoje davne susrete s Krešimirovim gradom, na putu do svoga odredišta za ljetni odmor. Tako je i on, priznaje, desetljećima bio žrtvom jedne od najgorih hrvatskih predrasuda, jer kaže: - Šibenik nije kićen poput Dubrovnika, ali njegov kamen odjekuje izvornijom dušom. Šibenik nije samouvjeren kao Split, ali ostaje mnogo postojaniji u svojim dugoročnim povijesnim utemeljenjima, Šibenik nisu gazili poput Zadra, ali s mnogo više samozatajne trpnje preživio je sve one poslovične kuge, požare, potrese, prekrajanja i prisvajanja, raseljavanja i priseljavanja. Mlađi od Dubrovnika i Splita, ali najstariji samorodni hrvatski grad na Jadranu, Šibenik nema spektakularne ostatke antičkih vremena
Ulica kralja Tomislava King Tomislav Street CROATIA AIRLINES
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Spomeničko blago Šibenika nisu samo tvrđave i nadmoćna katedrala Jurja Dalmatinca, nego i slikoviti mali trgovi, živopisne uske uličice, patricijske palače s portalima, grbovima i arhitektonskom dekoracijom. Kao i drvene barokne vratnice od ariša, portali, kapelice, balkoni, skalinade, rešetke i stupovi plemičkih palača, 3300 dragocjenih detalja, zbog kojih je stari Šibenik jedna od najsačuvanijih i najvećih srednjovjekovnih starih gradskih jezgara u Hrvatskoj. Monument treasures of Šibenik are not just the forts and the impressive Cathedral of Juraj Dalmatinac, but also the small picturesque squares, lively narrow streets, and patrician palaces with portals, emblems and other architectural decorations. The wooden Baroque door frames made from larch, the portals, chapels, balconies, staircases, bars and posts on the palaces, with 3300 valuable details, make the old town of Šibenik one of the largest and most well-preserved medieval city centres in Croatia.
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Katedrala svetog Jakova The Cathedral of St. Jakov CROATIA AIRLINES
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Rozeta na katedrali svetog Jakova A rosetta on the Cathedral of St. Jakov
Restauratorski radovi u katedrali svetog Jakova Interior of the Cathedral of St. Jakov - restoration works
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kao što Pula ima Arenu, a Split Dioklecijanovu palaču. U tih prvih tisuću godina, kako piše novinar i publicist Ivo Jakovljević u svojoj najnovijoj knjizi Europski Šibenik, grad je prošao dramatičan put od ilirsko-hrvatskog naselja, te rimskog i bizantskog castruma, pa preko hrvatskoga gusarskog uporišta te ugarskog i Šubićeva izlaza na more, do mletačkog posjeda i kršćanskog predziđa, a za Osmansko Carstvo neosvojiva bedema... Poslije udara kuge 1649. godine, grad je s 12.000 opao na manje od 1500 stanovnika, a od 150 plemićkih obitelji spasilo se samo deset. Nakon takve kataklizme i na granici sukoba civilizacija, očito je mogao odoljeti svim drugim iskušenjima, koja su Šibenčane - kako neki kažu - učinile iracionalno samokritičnima, punima crnoga humora i s mentalitetom koji su otac i sin, Ivo i Vinko Brešan, najbolje ocrtali u svojim dramama i filmovima. Nakon godina kada su turisti zaobilazili talionicu aluminija za priučene težake iz doba socijalizma, bitke za grad i njegove izoliranosti u vrijeme Domovinskog rata, te depresije i recesije u dobu tranzicijskog poraća, Šibenik 950. obljetnicu obilježava s mnogo više optimizma. On se odrekao hiperindustrijaliziranog sivila iz druge polovine prošloga stoljeća, a tek posljednjih godina otkriva golemi prirodni, kulturni i spomenički potencijal u borbi za što veći komad turističkog kolača. Unatoč prirodnim ljepotama kakve se rijetko mogu vidjeti na jednoj mikrolokaciji, turizam tu nije bivao prva opcija. Uoči Prvoga svjetskog rata prvi i rijetki gosti, uglavnom talijanska i austrougarska elita (na krstarenjima jedrenjacima vidjelo se Čeha), prolazili su gotovo nevidljivi kroz Šibenik, zainteresirani samo za katedralu sv. Jakova, staru jezgru i kupanje na obližnjem Zlarinu ili kupalištu Jadrija s kabinama u nizu. Tek stari hotel Krka na samoj obali, koji danas napušten čeka obnovu, svjedoči o tome da su ovdje navraćali stranci. A i kako bi do njega došli? Prije stotinu godina tim se prostorima najsigurnije prometovalo parobrodima austrijskog Lloyda na liniji Trst - Kotor, a u poraću nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata u Šibenik se iz Zagreba drndalo cijelu noć vlakom s dugom stankom u Kninu i presjedanjem u Perkoviću ili u prvim Fićama kotrljalo preko Velebita. Izgradnjom Jadranske magistrale i šibenskog mosta u početku šezdesetih procvjetale su obližnje Vodice, Primošten i Murter, a Šibenik na jugoistočnom rubu grada dobio je tek jedno izolirano turističko naselje Solaris. Gledajući ga s obližnjih otoka, grad je nekada, zbog teške industrije, lebdio u auri ružičastosive izmaglice. Jer, njegov razvoj i sudbinu u doba socijalizma nisu odredile spektakularne prirodne ljepote, nacionalni parkovi Kornati,
Glavni brod katedrale svetog Jakova
Krka i obližnji Park prirode Vransko jezero. Određivalo ga je podzemno prirodno blago u njegovu zaleđu - rudnici boksita, željezne rudače i ugljena. Dok su drugi jurili u turističke vode, prodajući kristalno čisto more i umiljato sunce, ovdje je nicala Tvornica elektroda i ferolegura, u kojoj su radile generacije Šibenčana, Tvornica lakih metala zapošljavala tisuće radnika, nicao je moćan trgovački koncern, tvornica plastične ambalaže, remontno brodogradilište, tvornica tekstila, brodarska kompanija, vinarija, drvoprerađivači, a sve je zapečatio golemi vojni kompleks na ulazu u Šibenski kanal. Pod rastućom patinom iz tvorničkih dimnjaka u staroj jezgri tavorilo je spomeničko blago, među kojim se nezainteresiranosti nadmoćno otimala katedrala sv. Jakova (od 2000. godine na popisu svjetske kulturne baštine Unesca), ali grad je zato bio središte megaindustrije s brdom zaposlenih i rastućim neboderima s radničkim stanovima. Vezan više uza zaleđe, nego povezan s morem, tek nakon okončanja talijanske okupacije 1921., kada je priključen Kraljevini SHS, a Zadar ostao u Italiji, Šibenik je kao najbliži spoj
Interior of the Cathedral of St. Jakov - the main nave
Detalj s katedrale svetog Jakova - Jurjev vijenac od ljudskih glava Detail of the Cathedral of St. Jakov - Juraj Dalmatinac’s human heads
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Pogled na Šibenik s gradskog kupališta Banj View of Šibenik from Banj Beach
Palača Divnić Divinić Palace
Trg palih šibenskih boraca Fallen Heroes Square - Šibenik
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Top na tvrđavi Barone Barone Fortress canon
Obala prvoboraca Bay of Veterans
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Gradska vijećnica na Trgu Republike Hrvatske City Hall on the Republic of Croatia Square
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Katedrala svetog Jakova The Cathedral of St. Jakov
Figura Eve na kapitelu iznad Lavljih vrata katedrale Eve's figure on the column above the Lion Gate
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sa željeznicom u Dalmaciji preuzeo većinu lučkog prometa, razvijajući se u značajnu luku. Iako je oborita riba oduvijek carevala Kornatima, Šibenčani baš i nisu ribarili, nisu imali ribarske lađe, ni lovili na otvorenome moru, sve dok nije zbog turskih osvajanja u 15. stoljeću bila prekinuta veza sa zaleđem, gdje su uzgajali stoku, lovili divljač i bavili se poljoprivredom. Ono što je za većinu jadranskih gradova bila barka, za Šibenčane je bio kar, zaprežno vozilo koje su vukli magarci, mazge ili konji, piše Jakovljević. Sve to danas zvuči nevjerojatno, kada vam na pazaru u uvijek krcatoj peškariji nude zubace i ugore kapitalce, brda mirisnih srdela, gavuna, lokardi i orada tek koji sat prije izvučenih iz mora. U luci grada, koji nikada nije bio tipičan lučki grad, sada s vrha poluotoka Mandalina u zaštićenoj šibenskoj uvali, poput pramca luksuzna broda, diskretno izranja D-Resort hotel s 4 + zvjezdice, s luksuzno opremljenim sobama, apartmanima i tri ekskluzivne vile (vlasništvo turske Doǧuș grupe). Dio je to jedine hrvatske marine s pet sidara i jedina marina u Hrvatskoj za superjahte. Šibenčani i njihovi gosti odnedavna su napokon dobili gradsko kupalište Banj, a uređena je nova trajektna luka u koju je sa starog mula, uz
mrmljanje bodula, premještena i brodska linija za susjedne otoke. Obnovljen je hotelski kompleks Solaris s vodenim parkom, minigolfom i obiteljskom plažom. Jedna od zgrada pretvorena je u luksuzni dječji hotel Andrija, prvi tematski hotel u Hrvatskoj za najmlađe, a u sastavu je kompleksa i Dalmatinsko etno selo s maslinikom od 2000 stabala, gdje ih kasno ujesen turisti mogu sami češati (brati) i cijediti vlastito ulje. Obližnji otok Obonjan, nekada poznat kao Otok mladosti, na kojemu su ljetovali školarci iz nekadašnje cijele Jugoslavije, sada ekskluzivnom ponudom po ekskluzivnim cijenama ugošćava prve VIP turiste. U starom gradu uređeno je na stotine novih apartmana i privatnog smještaja. Prije tri godine dovršena je šetnica kroz Kanal svetog Ante, od uvale Panikovac do moćne tvrđave sv. Nikole. Na šest kilometra dugom lungo mare nalazi se vidikovac, špilja s podzemnom kapelicom i nekoliko uvalica za kupanje i privez, a pješke ili biciklom može se sve do impresivne nekadašnje čuvarice grada na jedinom pomorskom ulazu u Šibenik. Građen u 16. stoljeću, impresivni, ali oronuli Sv. Nikola jedan je od najznačajnijih fortifikacijskih spomenika na hrvatskom dijelu Jadrana i, uz tvrđavu Sv. Ivan, sljedeći na redu za obnovu, koju Šiben-
Vizura staroga grada i Tvrđave svetog Mihovila View of the old town and St. Michael’s Fortress
čani poglavito financiraju na temelju znalačkog povlačenja sredstava iz EU-fondova. No Šibenčani su shvatili da spomeničko blago nisu samo tvrđave i nadmoćna katedrala Jurja Dalmatinca, nego i slikoviti mali trgovi, živopisne uske uličice, patricijske palače s portalima, grbovima i arhitektonskom dekoracijom. Kao i drvene barokne vratnice od ariša, portali, kapelice, balkoni, skalinade, rešetke i stupovi plemičkih palača, 3300 dragocjenih detalja, zbog kojih je stari Šibenik jedna od najsačuvanijih i najvećih srednjovjekovnih starih gradskih jezgara u Hrvatskoj. Toliko ih je nabrojio šibenski restaurator Ivo Šprljan u projektu za njihovu obnovu nazvanom STANADI (Starine naše divne), započetom uoči Domovinskog rata, a restaurator Marko Grbelja bio se uključio u posao, osobito ponosan obnovom kruna četiriju bunara na rekonstruiranom srednjovjekovnom vodocrpilištu. Spomen-grad na Jurja Dalmatinca, Fausta Vrančića, Ivana Lukačića ili Jurja Šižgorića, tako izrasta u suvremenu, urbanu cjelinu, kroz koju se više ne samo prolazi nego i zadržava, a glavnom ulicom Kalelargom ljeti teku rijeke turista s kruzera, jahtaši i azijski turisti. Grad koji je iznjedrio plejadu glazbenika, od neponovljivog Arsena Dedića i Vice Vukova, do Đanija
Stipaničeva, Miše Kovača, pijanista Maksima Mrvice i violinista Tonka Ninića, pretvorio se u pozornicu tradicionalnih i suvremenih glazbenih zbivanja i festivala. Uz diskretni Festival dalmatinske šansone, osnovao se festival elektroničke glazbe Terraneo, čiju buku i masovnost Šibenik ipak nije mogao progutati, pa se sada oslanja na manja, ali brojna glazbena događanja, od onih na tvrđavi sv. Mihovila, do onih u noćnom klubu Azimut, u kojemu se, uz alternativnu glazbu, dočekuju jutra. Sami Šibenčani pak shvaćaju da njihov grad ne može biti samo grad-pozornica, nego da uz turizam moraju razvijati suvremenu industriju koja će poštivati pravila samoodrživosti i visoke standarde zaštite prelijepog okoliša. Premda se stanovnici stare jezgre počinju iz nje iseljavati zbog ljetne gužve i buke, Šibenik je ipak još daleko od toga da postane gradkulisa, kao što se to dogodilo nekim drugim turističkim središtima. Od nostalgičnoga klapskog poja do glazbene alternative, od ribara i težaka do vrhunskih intelektualaca, od skromne gostionice Penkala koja godinama nudi neponovljive janjeće dropćiće (tripice), do vrhunski uređenih restorana s ekstravagantnim jelovnicima, Krešimirov grad tako nastoji povezati i tradiciju, i europski duh,
Figura Adama na kapitelu iznad Lavljih vrata katedrale Adam's figure on the column above the Lion Gate
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i globalizam, koji ni njega ne mimoilazi. To se najbolje vidi po golemim trgovačkim centrima na rubovima grada, gdje možete kupiti sve što kupujete bilo gdje drugdje. Ali na pazaru žene iz zaleđa još danas prodaju vijence bijelog luka i suhih smokava, tu još možete naći domaće usoljene kapare, janjetinu, kozji sir, med, opojno začinsko bilje, mišancu, rajčicu i fažolete. Nema više maslinovih grana obješenih iznad vratnica betula, znaka da na tome mjestu možete kupiti domaći babić i plavinu u rinfuzi, sada se prodaju u finim bocama s dizajnerskim naljepnicama. Ali zato će vas na pazaru prodavač pršuta iz Konjevrata počastiti bićerinom travarice dok čekate da vam nareže desetak feta za najbolji sendvič na svijetu, od toploga domaćeg kruha i najbolje dalmatinske poslastice.
O Unutrašnjost crkve sv. Nikole Interior of St. Nicholas Church
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n that January evening, four laser beams launched from four ancient forts, intertwined in the sky above Šibenik. With numerous guests in attendance, various speeches, champagne galore and a spectacular night view of Šibenik, one of the forts - the renovated Fort Barone, known to elder residents of the city as Šubićevac, but now renamed in honour of Baron Degenfeld, a German in service of the Republic of Venice,
who oversaw the defence of Šibenik from the Ottoman Turks, was ceremonially opened to the public. Lodged atop Vidakuša Hill, during the day, it offers the best views of the Channel of St. Ante, the Šibenik archipelago and the dome of the city’s famous cathedral. It is a perfect attraction for tourists who increasingly flock to Krešimir’s city every year. With the Fort of St. Mihovil, renovated and adapted into a summer stage two years ago, and the recently renovated Fort Barone, built in mid-17th century, the city has entered the jubilee year of 2016, and is celebrating 950 years since the first mention of its name in a charter by Croatian ruler Petar Krešimir IV. Had it not been for these forts, as well as the forts of St. Ivan, built at the same time as Fort Barone, and the Fort of St. Nikola in the Channel of St. Ante, from which the city fended off Ottoman attempts to conquer the coast, history in this part of Dalmatia would most likely have taken a different turn. - For me, Šibenik was but a long-awaited break in between trains and boats. Just after dawn, it would be a strenuous race from the train station to catch a boat to Zlarin, where I would enjoy sunshine, sea, socializing and fishing, wine and olives… For stubborn islanders, Šibenik has always been just an
Ulica fra Nikole Ružića Fra Nikola Ružić Street CROATIA AIRLINES
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in-between spot, a port and a market; for impatient tourists, nothing more than a hectic stopover place on the road between Vodice and Primošten; for conceited know-it-alls, it is merely an aluminium foundry for apprentices. Dalmatia, but not the real Dalmatia, or rough terrain that has coincidentally merged with the sea… - This is how journalist and diplomat Dražen Vukov Colić described his onetime experience in Krešimir’s city on the way to his summer holiday destination. He admits, however, he was one of the many victims of one of the worst Croatian prejudices for decades: - Šibenik isn’t as elaborate as Dubrovnik, but its stones resonate with an original soul. Šibenik is not as confident as Split, but it remains more persistent in its long-term historic foundations. Šibenik has not been as devastated as Zadar has throughout history, but it has endured much more quiet suffering in terms of the plague, as well as fires, earthquakes, occupations and migrations. Younger than Dubrovnik and Split, but the oldest native Croatian city on the Adriatic coast, Šibenik does not have spectacular remains from the late Antique period, such as Pula’s Arena or Diocletian’s Palace in Split. According to the writings of journalist and publicist Ivo Jakovljević in his latest book European Šibenik, in the first thousand years, the city endured a dramatic past as an IllyrianCroatian settlement, a Roman and Byzantine castrum, a Croatian pirate stronghold, a sea port for Hungary and the Šubić family, part of the Republic of Venice, the bulwark of Christianity and a fort unconquered by the Ottoman Turks… After the plague epidemic of 1649, the city’s population declined from 12,000 to less than 1,500 citizens, and only 10 of the 150 noble families survived. After such a cataclysm, and Lavlja vrata šibenske katedrale The Lion Gate - Šibenik Cathedral
Obala palih omladinaca Bay of the Fallen Youth
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GUCCI, CÉLINE, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, CHLOÉ, AZZEDINE ALAÏA, VITA KIN, STELLA MCCARTNEY, MARNI, ROCHAS, MISSONI, MONCLER, MONCLER GAMME ROUGE, MAISON MARGIELA, M2MALLETIER, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, IVI JEWELRY, ACHERALI KNOFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, ERICKSON BEAMON, TOM BINNS, GIANVITO ROSSI, LINDA FARROW LUXE, VICKI SARGE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr CROATIA AIRLINES
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Vidikovac Kamenjak iznad Vranskog jezera Kamenjak lookout above Lake Vrana
Tvrđava sv. Mihovila i stari dio grada St. Michael's Fortress and the old town
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on the verge of the clash of civilisations, it was obvious it could resist any ordeal, which some say, has made the citizens of Šibenik irrationally self-critical and full of dark humour, with a mentality that father and son, Ivo and Vinko Brešan, so perfectly portray in their plays and films. After years of tourists avoiding the aluminium foundry for apprentices during socialism, the battle for the city and its isolation during the Homeland War, and the depression and recession in the transitional post war period, Šibenik is marking its 950 th birthday with much more optimism. It denounced the hyperindustrialized greyness from the second half of the 20th century, and over the last several years, it has been discovering its natural and cultural potential in the struggle for as large a piece of the tourism cake as possible. Despite the natural beauties rarely found in one micro-location, tourism was never the first option in Šibenik. Before the First World War, rare first visitors, mostly Italian and the AustroHungarian elite (Czechs liked sailboat cruises), walked around Šibenik almost unnoticed, stopping only to take a look at the Cathedral of St. Jakov and the old city centre, or take a dip at nearby Zlarin Island or the Jadrija Beach
with cabins. Only the old Krka Hotel, located on the seafront, nowadays abandoned and awaiting renovation, stands witness to the time when foreigners used to visit the city. How would they get there? A hundred years ago, the safest way to travel in the area was by steamers belonging to the Austrian Lloyd Company, en route between Trieste and Kotor. In the period after the Second World War, people arrived in Šibenik on board an overnight train from Zagreb, with a long stopover in Knin and a train change in Perković. Even later still, many visitors arrived with their very first car, the popular Fićo, across the Velebit Mountain. With the construction of the so-called Adriatic Highway and the Šibenik Bridge in the early 1960’s, nearby Vodice, Primošten and Murter underwent a renaissance, while an isolated tourism complex, Solaris, sprung up on the south-eastern edge of the city. Looking at it from the nearby islands, thanks to its heavy industry, the city once glowed with an aura of pink-grey mist. Its development and destiny during socialism were not influenced by spectacular natural beauties such as the national parks of Kornati, Krka and the nearby Vrana Lake Natural Park. Instead, it was defined by underground natural treasures in its hinterland - the bauxite, iron ore and coal
mines. While others dived into tourism waters, selling the crystal clear sea and warm sun, Šibenik was home to the factory of electrodes and ferroalloys, which employed thousands of workers from numerous generations of Šibenik citizens. There was also a major retail concern, a factory of plastic packaging, a service shipyard, a textile factory, a shipping company, a winery and an industrial wood production site, as well as a huge military complex at the entrance to the Channel of Šibenik. The monumental treasure of Šibenik’s old centre was wilting under a growing patina from factory chimneys. The Cathedral of St. Jakov successfully defied this fate and has been included on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2000, but the city has always been a centre of mega-industry, with heaps of labourers and many skyscrapers housing workers’ apartments. More closely connected with the hinterland than the coast, only after the end of Italian occupation in 1921, when it was included into the Kingdom of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs, while Zadar remained in Italy, Šibenik became a significant port for the first time as the closest link with the railway in Dalmatia. Although fish have always been abundant in the waters around Kornati, the Šibenik locals
Pogled s tvrđave Barone na tvrđavu Sv. Mihovila View of St. Michael's Fortress from Barone Fortress
Ukrasna rešetka na prozoru Detail - ornamented window grills
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never fished much; they had no fishing boats nor caught fish in the open sea; and this was the way it was until the 15th century, when the Ottoman Turks severed Šibenik’s contact with the hinterland, when they farmed cattle, hunted for wild game and turned to agriculture. According to Jakovljević, most citizens of coastal towns used boats, while Šibenik locals used carriages drawn by donkeys, mules and horses. All of this sounds incredible nowadays, as the bustling fish market offers a variety of fish, including the common dentex, conger, heaps of pilchard, sand smelt, mackerel and bream pulled from the sea just hours earlier. In the port of the city, which has never been a typical port city, the four-star D-Resort Hotel, with luxurious rooms, suites and three exclusive villas, all owned by the Turkish Doǧuș Group, emerges like a bow of a luxurious liner from the tip of the Mandalina Peninsula, in the sheltered Bay of Šibenik. It is part of the only Croatian marina with five anchors, and the only marina in Croatia which can accommodate super yachts. As of recently, the citizens of Šibenik and their guests can also enjoy the city beach of Banj, while there is also a new ferry port, which is now also the departure point for boats to neighbouring Prozor na Gradskoj vijećnici / City Hall window
Trg palih šibenskih boraca Fallen Heroes Square - Šibenik
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islands, instead of the old pier. The Solaris Resort has also been renovated, and features an aqua-park, mini-golf course and a beach suitable for families. One of the buildings of the complex has been turned into a luxurious hotel for children - Hotel Andrija, the first of its kind in Croatia; the complex also consists of a Dalmatian Ethno Village with an olive orchard containing 2000 trees, which tourists can pick and make oil from in late autumn. The nearby Obonjan Island, once known as the Island of Youth, where school children from all over the former Yugoslavia went on their summer holidays, is now ready to be host to its first VIP group, offering tourists an exclusive package at exclusive prices.
The old town, nowadays, features hundreds of new apartments and private accommodation facilities. Three years ago, a walkway through the Channel of St. Ante was completed, stretching from the Panikovac Lagoon to the mighty Fort of St. Nikola. Along the six-kilometre boardwalk there is a viewpoint, a cave with an underground chapel and several lagoons ideal for swimming or docking; one can also walk or cycle to the impressive onetime guardian of the city at the only naval entrance to Šibenik. Built in the 16th century, the impressive albeit rundown St. Nikola is one of the most significant fortification monuments on the Croatian side of the Adriatic, and along with the Fort of St. Ivan, it is next in line for renovation, which the citizens of Šibenik are financing thanks to a resourceful use of EU funds. However, the citizens of Šibenik have realized that their monument treasures are not just the forts and the impressive Cathedral of Juraj Dalmatinac, but also the small picturesque squares, lively narrow streets, and patrician palaces with portals, emblems and other architectural decorations. The wooden Baroque door frames made from larch, the portals, chapels, balconies, staircases, bars and posts on the palaces, with 3300 valuable details, make the old town of Šibenik one of the largest and most well-preserved medieval city centres in Croatia. That is how many of them were counted and listed by a renovator from Šibenik, Ivo Šprljan, in a renovation project called STANADI (Starine naše divne - Our CROATIA AIRLINES
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Restoran Gradska vijećnica City Hall Restaurant
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Wonderful Antiquities), begun on the eve of the Homeland War; renovator Marko Grbelja was involved and especially proud of the renovation of the crowns on the four wells of the reconstructed medieval water well. The city of Juraj Dalmatinac, Faust Vrančić, Ivan Lukačić and Juraj Šižgorić is thus turning into a contemporary urban centre, which is no longer just a stopover, but a final destination, with its main street Kalelarga packed with tourists from cruise ships and private yachts. The city that gave us an array of musicians, from the one and only Arsen Dedić and Vice Vukov, to Đani Stipaničev, Mišo Kovač, pianist Maksim Mrvica and violinist Tonko Ninić, has become a stage for traditional and contemporary music events and festivals. Apart from the discreet Festival of Dalmatian Chanson, there was the Terraneo Festival of electronic music, but Šibenik could not handle its noise and size, so it now relies on smaller, more numerous music events at the Fort of St. Mihovil and the Azimut Nightclub, where fans of alternative music enjoy themselves until the early hours of the morning. The citizens of Šibenik, however, realise that their city cannot be just a large stage, but that tourism and contemporary industry must be developed, and that the laws of sustainability and the highest standards of conservation for the beautiful environment must be upheld. Although the citizens of the old town are mostly leaving it due to summer crowds and noise, Šibenik is still far from becoming a coulisse city, which has been the case with some other tourism centres. From nostalgic klapa sounds to alternative music, from fishermen and farmers to superb intellectuals, from the modest Penkala eatery, which has been offering fantastic lamb tripe for years, to top-class restaurants with extravagant menus, Krešimir’s city strives to connect tradition with the European spirit and globalism, which it has not become immune to. This is most evident in large shopping centres on the outskirts of the city, where one can buy anything that can also be found and bought in other places. However, on the market, women from the hinterland still offer chaplets made from white onions or figs, homemade salted capers, lamb, goat’s cheese, honey, various herbs and seasonings, tomatoes and beans… There are no more olive branches hanging above the door, an indication that the establishment sells homemade wine in bulk, in glass bottles with designer labels. However, the prosciutto seller from Konjevrat will always treat you with some travarica as you wait while he cuts ten slices or so for the best sandwich in the world - Dalmatia’s best treat in warm home-made bread.
JEDINI SLATKOVODNI AKVARIJ U HRVATSKOJ I U OVOM DIJELU EUROPE U srcu Hrvatske, na obali rijeke Korane u centru grada Karlovca, nalazi se nova jedinstvena ekološka, obrazovna, znanstvena i turistička ustanova, koja prikazuje ihtiofloru i faunu hrvatskih rijeka, te tradicijski život uz rijeke. U 25 akvarijskih bazena, naći ćete preko 100 vrsta riba koje obitavaju u hrvatskim rijekama, 40 endemskih vrsta, sveukupno preko 5.000 jedinki. Naše su rijeke naše veliko bogatstvo, upoznajte ih u karlovačkom akvariju! Projekt: "Slatkovodni akvarij i muzej rijeka - KAquarium" „Sadržaj ove publikacije isključiva je odgovornost Grada Karlovca” Projekt je sufinancirala Europska unija iz Europskog fonda za regionalni razvoj
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Prirodne ljepote Natural Beauties
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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Goran Šafarek
Poplavno podruËje izmeu Dunava i Drave na istoku Hrvatske jedno je od najpoznatijih moËvarnih podruËja u Europi. Slike moËvara i prirodnih kanala, stada jelena i Ëopor divljih svinja, tisuÊe ptica za migracija i gnijeæenja poznate su πirom svijeta. The flooded area between the Danube and Drava rivers, the easternmost part of Croatia, is one of the most famous wetlands in Europe. The images of wetland and natural channels, herds of deer and wild boar, thousands of birds migrating and nesting, are well-known around the world.
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J
elen je glasno zarikao, njegov se topli dah maglio na svjeæem rujanskom zraku. S golemih rogova visjele su mu mlitave travke πaπa koje je upravo zagrebao s povrπine. Zatim je golemi sisavac naÊulio velike uπi i poËeo trËkarati prema nekoliko koπuta u blizini. I sve se to odigrava u Ëudesnom ambijentu KopaËkog rita: nepregledna polja πaπa i trske, proπaranih mozaikom tamnozelenih πumaraka bijele vrbe. Ovdje se teπko moæe pjeπice, nego jednim od prirodnih vodenih kanala prostrane poplavne nizine Dunava. Takvi prizori nestali su u veÊem dijelu Europe, davno izoranoj ili urbaniziranoj. Igra povijesnih okolnosti oËuvala je poplavnu nizinu tog dijela Dunava kod Osijeka, pa je ljudi nisu pretvorili u obradive povrπine, a rijeka je poπteena od regulacija koje su uguπile ostale europske rijeke. Bilo je to uvijek elitno loviπte, najprije za aristokraciju pa predsjednika Tita, a poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata Dunav i njen pritok Drava bili su hladnoratovske granice prema sovjetskim tenkovima i bunkerima u Maarskoj. Preostalo je srednje Podunavlje, na dodiru Maarske, Srbije i Hrvatske, jedan od posljednjih æivih rijeËnih sustava u nizinskoj Europi. NajveÊi dio, 17 000 hektara, zaπtiÊen je kao park prirode KopaËki rit, dragulj u kruni europske Amazone, kako nazivamo Unescov Rezervat biosfere Mura-Drava-Dunav. KopaËki je rit i na Ramsarskom popisu meunarodno vaænih moËvarnih podruËja. To je dom za orlove πtekavce, jelene i druge rijetke i ugroæene vrste koje nalaze dom u prostranom poplavnom podruËju, πto je zaista rijetka slika na starom kontinentu. Rit je pojam za povremeno plavljenu poplavnu nizinu, ovisno o vodostajima Dunava i Drave, dvjema arterijama parka prirode. U proljeÊe se snjegovi tope s Alpa i obje rijeke nabujaju, obogaÊene i proljetnim kiπama. Vodeni val tako stiæe do ravne Slavonije, a sva suviπna voda koju korita rijeka ne mogu zadræati, prelijeva se u nizak i plitak KopaËki rit, najniæi dio Baranje.
Nastaje golemo jezero iz kojega vire smei Ëuperci trski i zelena stabla vrba. I kad splasnu rijeke, voda se u ritu zadræava joπ tjednima, prosjeËno 100 dana u godini, na 23 000 ha koliko zauzima park prirode. Voda pomalo isparava, ali u depresijama ostaje plitka voda, ostaje moËvara. Rit se puni dunavskom vodom velikim prirodnim kanalima dunavcima. One su i jedino sredstvo kretanja kroz unutraπnjost parka, jer ostatak je ili pod vodom ili je prava, teπko prohodna dæungla. Bujna je vegetacija iz okolne πume, oko kanala vlada cvrkut ptica, pjesma æaba, πuπtanje vjetra… Nerijetko se sa stabla u visinu vine iznenaeni πtekavac, a u daljini nekoliko zaËuenih jelena s obale elegantno poskoËi u πumu. Dok Ëamac glatko klizi, a valiÊi lelujaju biljke uz obalu, Ëovjek se nae u nevienoj nizinskoj divljini usred Europe. NajveÊi je Hulovski kanal, dugaËak πest kilometara a πirok mjestimice i do 34 metra. Jedan je od najveÊih unutarnjih kanala »onakut, koji povezuje dva velika jezera: KopaËko i Sakadaπko jezero, gdje je pristaniπte turistiËkih brodova. Poplavama su se prilagodile mnoge biljke. Ovisno o koliËini vode i vremenu njenog zadræavanja, razvilo se Ëak 40-ak biljnih zajednica. Nastanjuju od otvorene vode do suπe, ali joπ poplavne πume. LopoË i lokvanj vladaju povrπinom dublje vode, a æuti cvjetovi plavuna, zeleni listiÊi vodene leÊe, vodene mahovine i vodene paprati dominiraju neπto pliÊim barama. Ispod povrπine vode prava je πuma mrijesnjaka, krocnja i drugih podvodnih biljaka. Gdje se voda bræe povuËe, ostaju trπËaci s rogozom te prostrani πaπici. Ovdje nemilice ljeti præi sunce, no hladovine se ipak nae u poplavnim πumama vrba i topola, a izvan dosega poplavnih voda tu je i moÊni hrast luænjak. Ovakvo veliko i oËuvano prirodno staniπte prigrlile su mnoge æivotinje, pogotovo πto nema uznemiravanja ljudi. KopaËki rit najznaËajnije je mrjestiliπte riba u cijelom dunavskom slijevu. I
KopaËki je rit æivi dokaz kako prirodne oËuvane rijeke i njihove poplave nisu πtetne nego stvaraju nevjerojatnu prirodnu baπtinu. Kopački Rit is living proof that naturally preserved rivers and their floodplains are not disastrous; rather, they create an amazing natural heritage. 56
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dok jeleni za poplave bjeæe na poviπene dijelove, u rit ulaze jaz, podust, bolen, uklija, deverika, πarani, somovi, smuevi i ostale ribe koje se pridruæuju stalnim stanarima poput πtuke. KopaËki rit zbog toga je prava riznica ribe. ©arani u æaru razmnoæavanja prirede katkad pravu prskavu predstavu u pliÊacima, potpuno
nesvjesni bilo Ëega. U poplavnoj vodi i zaostalim πumskim lokvama poËinju se leÊi komarci. Malo-pomalo, generacija za generacijom, oni postaju pravi vladari rita, ali i πire okolice. Njihovo nesnosno zujanje izluuje svakoga, a u nekim godinama gotovo je nemoguÊe boraviti na otvorenome bez debele odjeÊe na sebi, koliko
god bilo vruÊe. Neke vrste mogu preletjeti i 30 kilometara od poplavnih podruËja na kojima su se izlegli. No, ostali kukci, izuzevši obada, nisu, nasreÊu, tako naporni. Obilje beskraljeænjaka prostrt je stol gmazovima i vodozemcima. Barska kornjaËa roni u pliËini i samo za tren izroni glavu. Poslije se masovno odmaraju i griju na
starome, palom drveÊu. VeÊ iz daljine Ëuju se u proljeÊe zborovi æaba mukaËa, zelenih æaba, gatalinki. Zmije bjelouπka i ribarica vrebaju na njih, gmizeÊi u guπtiku ili po vodi. Sve to paæljivo nadgledaju ptice grabljivice, od kojih je najveÊi πtekavac. Taj orao najveÊa je grabljivica u ritu, nezamjenjiv sa svojim bijelim i kratkim repom. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Ne bira previπe hranu, lovi sve πto moæe, a ni strvine mu nisu strane. »ak dvadesetak parova πtekavaca gnijezdi na podruËju parka. U parku se ukupno pojavljuje 285 vrsta ptica, od kojih oko 140 gnijezdi. Prizor od stotina ili Ëak tisuÊa ptica ostavlja bez daha. Najbrojnije su Ëaplje, patke, æliËarke, vranci, Êurlini, rijeËni galebovi… U proljeÊe i ljeti KopaËki je rit veliko gnjezdiliπte. Guske veÊ u travnju vode guπËiÊe po plitkoj vodi, ali uvijek u blizini vodene vegetacije za pravodobno skrivanje. Poslije se na sliËan naËin gnijezde patke, a sive Ëaplje i gakovi gnijezde u buËnim kolonijama na visokim
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stablima vrba ili jasena. Gotovo da nema kutka gdje razliËite vrste neÊe sviti gnijezdo, osobito u trsci, poput glasnih trstenjaka. Meu zadnjima su gnjurci i bjelobrade Ëigre, obje vrste ptica koje gnijezdo grade od vodenog bilja na plitkoj povrπini vode. Obje su vrste i vjeπti ribolovci, no dok gnjurci zaranjaju s povrπine, Ëigre patroliraju s visina i kad vide ribu, bacaju se za njom naglavaËke poput bombe. Jesen je pak doba najveÊe guæve, za vrijeme selidbe sa sjevera Europe na jug i kada se sjati na stotine æliËarki, pataka, ptica pjevica, Êurlina i ostalih ptica moËvarica. SliËno se zbiva na zimovanju, kada ptice bjeæe sa zaleenih rijeka i jezera na sjeveru Europe. Mnoge joπ viπe fasciniraju jeleni, Ëesto cijela stada tih æivotinja koje mirno pasu u debelom πaπu. Jeleni su zbog bogate lovne tradicije uvijek imali istaknutu ulogu u ritu, a rana jesen, kad poËinje rika jelena, jedna je od najpoznatijih slika rita. Danas KopaËki rit nudi jelenima izvrsna hraniliπta i rikaliπta, a najvaænije je πto u njemu nema lovaca. Te velike æivotinje prilagoene su dunavskim poplavama, redovito posjeÊuju rit i dobro plivaju, a mogu Ëak preplivati i veÊe rijeke poput Dunava i Drave. Za vruÊina vole se hladiti u vodi te braniti od komaraca i obada. KopaËki rit dom je i ostalim sisavcima poput vidre, divlje maËke, lisice, kune, jazavca, lasice… Divljih
svinja, iako ne karizme jelena, vrlo je mnogo. U proljeÊe izlaze brojne krmaËe s praπËiÊima na otvoreno, rujuÊi po vlaænoj zemlji u potrazi za gomoljima, gljivama, gujavicama i ostalim slasticama. Park prirode πtiti æivotinje, ali, joπ vaænije, staniπte te fenomen plavljenja, nekad gledano kao πtetno djelovanje voda. Upravo suprotno, rit poput suhe spuæve upija visoke vode Dunava, spaπava tako nizvodne gradove i stoga je uËinkovita prirodna zaπtita od poplava. Takoer, park prirode postaje meka koja privlaËi mnoge ljubitelje prirode u Baranju te postaje pravi turistiËki brand.
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he red deer roars loudly, its warm breath visible in the crisp September air. From its giant antlers hangs a few stems of limp sedge, which it has just lifted off the ground. The large mammal then pricks up its big ears and runs towards a group of does nearby. All this is taking place in the magical setting of Kopački Rit: vast sedge and reed fields, sprinkled with a mosaic of dark green and white willow groves. It is difficult to reach the area on foot; it is better to use one of the natural water channels in the spacious floodplain of the Danube. Scenes
like this have disappeared from the largest part of Europe, cultivated and urbanized long ago. Through a happenstance of historical circumstances, the floodplain of this part of the Danube near Osijek has been preserved, not converted into arable land; and the river has been spared from regulation, a condition that has suffocated Europe’s other rivers. This was always an elite hunting ground, first for the aristocracy, and then for President Tito; after World War II, the Danube and its tributary, the Drava, were also the Cold War-era borders with the Soviet tanks and pillboxes in Hungary. The remaining central Podunavlje region, where the borders of Hungary, Serbia and Croatia meet, is one of the last living river systems in lowland Europe. Its largest part, covering 17,000 ha, is protected as part of the nature park Kopački Rit, a crown jewel of the European Amazon, nicknamed UNESCO’s Mura Drava-Danube Biosphere Reserve. Kopački Rit is also included on the Ramsar List of internationally significant wetlands. It is home to the white-tailed eagle, deer and other rare and endangered species, which have found shelter in the vast floodplain, which is indeed a scene rarely seen on the old continent.
Rit is a term denoting an occasionally flooded plain, dependent on the water levels of the Danube and Drava, the two arteries of the nature park. In spring, snow from the Alps thaw and both rivers well up, enriched also by spring rains. The water flow then reaches the plains of Slavonia, and the excess water, which the riverbeds cannot contain, spills over into the low and shallow Kopački Rit, the lowest part of Baranja. This creates an enormous lake with brown wisps of reed and green willow trees sticking out of it. Once the rivers subside, the water stays in the floodplain for weeks - on average, 100 days a year, on the nature park’s 23,000 ha. The water slowly evaporates, but depressions, which hold shallow water, remain as marshes. The large natural channels of the Danube’s floodplain are called dunavci. They are also the only way to move through the inner areas of the park, since the rest is either underwater or is an impenetrable jungle. With earthy shores, hosting lush vegetation from the nearby woods, the channel is surrounded by the chirping of birds, the calling of frogs and the rustling wind… Often, there is a startled white-tailed eagle flying off a tree into the sky, or several surprised deer jumping gracefully CROATIA AIRLINES
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into a distant wood. As a boat glides smoothly by, and plants sway along the shores, you find yourself all alone in the midst of incredible wild lowlands in the middle of Europe! The largest channel is Hulovski Kanal, 6 km long and at some points up to 34 m wide. One of the largest inner channels is Čonakut, connecting two large lakes: Kopačko and Sakadaško, which hosts a port for tourist boats. Many plant species and as many as 40 plant communities have adapted to the floods, the species varying depending on the quantity of water and duration of overflow. Their habitats range from open waters to a drier, but still flooded wooded area. The water lily and yellow water lily dominate the surfaces of deeper water, while the yellow flowers of the fringed 60
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water lily, the green leaves of duckweed, water moss and water fern are predominant in somewhat shallower puddles. Beneath the water’s surface is a forest of pondweed, water-milfoil and other submerged plants. In places where water withdraws more quickly, there are reeds with rushes and expansive sedges. In the summer, the sun is scorching hot, but there is still shade in the flooded willow and poplar woods, while the mighty pedunculate oak grows beyond the reach of any floods. This large and well-preserved natural habitat has been embraced by many animals, especially since they are not disturbed by people here. Kopački Rit is the most significant fish hatchery in the entire Danube catchment area. While deer, during floods, flee to elevated land, ide, common nase, asp, carp, catfish, pikeperch and other fish species come to the floodplain, joining permanent residents, such as the pike. This makes Kopački Rit a true fish treasury! At the peak of mating season, carp sometimes put on a sprinkling show in shallow water, completely oblivious to their surroundings. Mosquitoes start to hatch in the flood waters and the remaining puddles in the woods. Little by little, generation after generation, they become masters of the floodplain, and of the wider surroundings. Their annoying buzz is enough to drive anyone crazy; some years, it is virtually impossible to be out in the open without wearing thick clothes, regardless of the heat. Some species can fly as far as 30 km from the flooded area where they were hatched. Fortunately, other insects, with the exception of horseflies, are not so bothersome. An abundance of invertebrates makes for a feast for reptiles and amphibians. The European pond turtle dives in shallow water, its head emerging only for a moment. Later, they rest and warm up in great numbers on old, fallen trees. As early as spring, distant choirs made up of fire-bellied toads, green frogs and tree frogs can be heard. Grass snakes and dice snakes stalk them slowly, crawling along the thicket or in water. All this is observed by vigilant raptors, the largest of which is the white-tailed eagle. This eagle is the largest bird of prey in the floodplain, unmistakable with its short white tail. Not a picky eater, it preys on everything it can, and will not shy away from carrion. As many as twenty white-tailed eagle pairs nest in the park. A total of 285 bird species are present in the park, about 140 of which are engaged in nesting. Seeing several hundreds or even thousands of birds will leave you breathless. The most numerous are herons and egrets, ducks, spoonbills, cormorants, waders, the
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black-headed gull... In the spring and summer, Kopački Rit is a large nesting ground. Already in April, geese take their young into the shallow water, never going far from the water plants which offer them timely shelter. Later, ducks nest in a similar fashion, while the grey heron and the night heron nest in noisy colonies on tall willow or ash trees. There is almost no corner where a species could not be found nesting, particularly in reeds, like reed warblers. Among these are the great crested grebes and the whiskered terns, both of which build their nests from water plants on the water’s shallow surface. Both species are also skilled fishers, but while grebes dive in from the surface, terns patrol around in the sky, and when they see a fish, they plummet for it like a bomb. Autumn is the most crowded period, as birds are migrating from the north of Europe towards the south, with hundreds of spoonbills, ducks, passerine birds, waders and other waterfowls flying into the area. A similar situation happens during winter, when birds flee the frozen rivers and lakes in the north of Europe. Many people are even more fascinated by the red deer; often entire herds of these animals can be seen, grazing peacefully in the thick sedge. Due to a rich hunting tradition, deer always had a prominent role in the floodplain, and in early autumn, when deer roaring starts, it is one of the floodplain’s most well-known images. Today, Kopački Rit offers excellent feeding and roar sites for deer, and the most important thing is that there are no hunters. These large animals are well adapted to the Danube’s floods which often occur in the floodplain, and they are good swimmers, able to even swim across larger rivers like the Danube and Drava. During hot weather, they enjoy cooling themselves in the water, which also shelters them from mosquitoes and horseflies. Kopački Rit is home to other mammals like otters, wild cats, foxes, martens, badgers and weasels… Wild boar, although lacking the deer’s charisma, are also numerous. In spring, many sows take their young out in the open, digging in the moist ground in search of bulbs, mushrooms, earthworms and other treats. The nature park shelters animals, but is even more important as a habitat; this flood phenomenon, which was once seen as a disastrous overflow of water has proved to be the opposite. The floodplain absorbs the Danube’s high waters like a dry sponge, thus saving cities downstream and acting as an efficient natural flood protectant. Also, the nature park is becoming a Mecca attracting many lovers of nature to Baranja, and a true tourist brand… 62
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DIGITAL TRANSFORMATION AND INNOVATION CALLS FOR NEW TYPE OF LEADERS In a technology dominated world, organizations need a new type of leaders who will accomplish business objectives using technology Despite high levels of unemployment, Europe is faced with a significant shortage of people capable of leading transformation and innovation to deal with and capitalise on advances in information and communication technologies. It is estimated that the shortage of digital professionals and e-leaders will reach over 800,000 and 200,000 respectively by 2020. This is why e-leadership skills have come to focus of the European Commission initiative and welcomed by stakeholders. The first initiative on e-Leadership was launched in 2013 focusing on the needs of adjusting educational system for decision-makers and professional leaders at larger enterprises in the digital economy.
NOVI VOĐE U DOBA DIGITALNE TRANSFORMACIJE I INOVACIJE U svijetu kojim dominira tehnologija organizacijama treba novi tip lidera koji će ostvariti poslovne ciljeve uz pomoć tehnologije Unatoč visokoj stopi nezaposlenosti Europa se suočava sa značajnim nedostatkom ljudi koji su sposobni voditi organizaciju kroz transformaciju i inovaciju te kapitalizirati napredak informacijsko-komunikacijskih tehnologija. Procjenjuje se da će na tržištu rada u Europi do 2020. nedostajati 800.000 digitalnih profesionalaca i 200.000 e-Vođa. Iz tog razloga je Europska komisija pokrenula inicijativu usmjerenu na razvoj e-Vodstva koju su dionici spremno dočekali. Inicijativa je pokrenuta 2013. godine s naglaskom na važnost prilagodbe obrazovnog sustava za voditelje kompanija u digitalnoj ekonomiji.
e-Leadership MBA program In the EU there are only four MBA programs which meet the criteria of digital education leaders, e-leaders, including strategic leadership, understanding of digital technology and understanding of the business processes. IgBS e-Leadership MBA program at Algebra University College in Zagreb is the only such program in SEE region. It has leadership strongly embedded in all of its modules. „Emerging companies struggle naturally, that is state of starting up. Real leaders understand that nothing comes overnight. Businesses don’t exist in a vacuum, they have competitors, they have challenges. E-leaders understand that because they have knowledge of both worlds – business and technology – and they have a powerful combination to counter competition“ states IgBS e-Leadership MBA professor Keith G. Dayton from the Kelley School of Business and Indiana University. The program will commence in November 2016 and will be managed by the Algebra University College in close cooperation with faculties from the Kelley School of Business and Indiana University. For more information about the Program please visit our website www.e-leadership.mba.
e-Vodstvo MBA program U EU postoje samo četiri MBA programa koji zadovoljavaju kriterije obrazovanja digitalnih vođa, e-vođa, a uključuju strateško vodstvo, razumijevanje digitalne tehnologije i poslovnih procesa. IgBS e-Leadership MBA program na Viskom učilištu Algebra u Zagrebu jedini je takav program u regiji jugoistočne Europe. Vodstvo se prožima kroz sve programske module.
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“Borba za opstanak je prirodna u fazi pokretanja tvrtke. Pravi vođe shvaćaju da ništa ne dolazi preko noći. Tvrtke ne posluju u vakuumu, postoje konkurenti i razni izazovi. E-Vođe to razumiju jer imaju znanje iz oba svijeta – poslovnog i digitalnog i to je snažna kombinacija za konkurentsku utakmicu” poručuje Keith G. Dayton s Kelley School of Business na Sveučilištu u Indiani. Program počinje u studenome 2016. godine na Visokom učilištu Algebra u suradnji s Kelley School of Business i Indiana University. Više informacija o programu pronađite na web stranici programa: www.e-leadership.mba. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Kontinentalna Hrvatska Inland Croatia
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Piπe/By Anika Rešetar Fotografije/Photos Saša Pjanić
Danas se Lipik možda najviše povezuje s termalnim lječilištem i glasovitim perivojem. Sve više turista u posljednje vrijeme posjećuje Slavoniju, pa na toj turi redovito razgledaju i poznatu ergelu lipicanskih konja. Zainteresirani će svakako saznati više o gradiću i običajima odluče li se za stručno vođenje uz kostimiranog vodiča na Jelkinoj stazi, a povod posjetu mogu biti i mnoge manifestacije raspoređene tijekom cijele godine, od kojih u hladnom razdoblju ističemo Miris Božića. Lipik is, nowadays, probably the most well-known for its thermal baths and its renowned park. An increasing number of tourists have been visiting Slavonia recently and their tour often includes the famous Lipizzaner Horse Farm. Anyone interested will surely find out more about the town and customs from an expert guide in costume on Jelka’s Path. Reasons to visit are the various events scheduled throughout the year, including the Scent of Christmas in the wintertime. ∑ Ma vidi lipih beštija! ∑ usklikne muškarac srednjih godina iz Splita. - Aaaaa ∑ odgovara s mnogo odobravanja njegova sugrađanka. ∑ Asti, nisu ko naši tovari! ∑ dodaje punašan muškarac. Sve se to čuje u razgledu Državne ergele Lipik, bivšemu Izidorovcu, nazvanu po osnivaču i vlasniku, grofu Izidoru Jankoviću (1789. ∑ 1857.). Splitski posjetitelji znatiželjno motre razigrane životinje na pašnjaku nakon što su posjetili konjušnice. U prvom su dijelu vidjeli pastuhe, a u drugom kobile i konjiće. Sve u urednim i čistim prostorijama u kojima miriše svježe doneseno sijeno. Na zanimanje je naišao i bazen za kupanje konja, u kojemu se radnici ergele brinu za čistoću konja i redovito ih kupaju. Sve to pobuđuje daljnje komentare Dalmatinaca koji u posljednje vrijeme češće posjećuju Slavoniju, pa na toj turi redovito razgledaju i poznatu ergelu lipicanskih konja. Slučajno smo tijekom njihova posjeta i mi sudjelovali u razgledu s Ivanom Pleše, zaposlenicom agencije Lira (Lipičke razvojne agencije) u vlasništvu grada. Pisani podaci, istaknula je, govore da je grof Izidor 1843. osnovao vlastitu ergelu na imanju od 600 jutara nedaleko od Lipika. Ondje je uzgajao rasne konje specijalizirane za poljoprivredne radove, potrebe vojske i policije, za vuču i
jahanje. U to su se doba za uzgoj konja dobivali državni poticaji jer konji su sve do parnog stroja i benzinskog motora bili glavno prijevozno sredstvo i radna životinja, služili su u lovu, a u vojsci i policiji bili udarna snaga. Njegov sin Julije naslijedio je vlastelinstvo 1849. godine, ali ga 1861. godine prodaje. Novi značajniji vlasnik postao je 1906. godine Stjepan Layer iz Virovitice, a na dobru je tada bilo dvadesetak čistokrvnih kobila lipicanske, nonius i angloarapske pasmine te tri pastuha. Već se tada pomno pazilo na čistoću rodosovlja i ugled ergele. S manjim prekidima ergela radi sve do danas, iako je kontinuitet na vrlo ružan način prekinuo Domovinski rat 1991. godine. U jeku srpskih napada na Lipik, 26. rujna 1991., radnici ergele pustili su konje van iz staja, a 27. rujna staja je zapaljena granatama. Od 118 konja u ergeli, od kojih većinom lipicanske pasmine, njih 80-ak odvedeno je na okupirano područje, 35 konja je ubijeno, a ekshumirani su u veljači 1992. godine. U godinama nakon rata, sve do 2007., trajali su pregovori vlada Republike Hrvatske i SR Jugoslavije pa Srbije oko povrata konja. Vlada RH posredovanjem Ministarstva kulture ulaže sredstva u iznosu oko milijun kuna za obnovu srušene zgrade, koja je nakon pre-
tvorbe u vlasništvu Poljoprivrede Lipik d.d. U listopadu 2007. godine konji su se napokon vratili iz Srbije, kući u Lipik. Od 118 grla, koliko ih je bilo na dan napada na Lipik, na ergelu je vraćeno 66 konja - 25 kobila i 21 pastuh lipicanske pasmine, 20 toplokrvnih konja te dva ponija. Uredbom Vlade Republike Hrvatske iz 2010. godine određeno je spajanje Hrvatskog centra za konjogojstvo - Državna ergela Lipik s Državnom ergelom lipicanaca iz Đakova. Na ergeli vladaju prozračna čistoća i red, na svakome se koraku osjeti rad dobro organiziranoga i radišnog tima. Preko puta staja park je s visokim stoljetnim hrastovima. U njemu su udobni stolci koji služe za domjenke i kulturne manifestacije. Unatoč vrućini u njemu vlada hlad posve drugačiji od onoga koji tvore tende kafića ili klimatski uređaji. Čovjek poželi da u njima sjedi pa tek onda krene dalje. U njima se odmaraju i Splićani i čude se ljepoti hlada i šuma na obzoru. Svuda uokolo mir i tišina, spokoj i skladno kretanje konja i elegantne kretnje radnika koji se za njih brinu. Manjež je prazan, ali u njemu se može jahati za 100 kuna po satu, a uz prethodnu najavu može se organizirati i vožnja kočijom. Ergela je u predgrađu Lipika ako dolazite iz smjera Kutine. Tijekom vožnje do središta gradića
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Državna ergela Lipik Lipik State Stud Farm
OPG Pintarić, ljekovito i začinsko bilje Pintarić Family Farm, medicinal and culinary herbs
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Etno kuća, OPG Božić Ethno house, Božić Family Farm
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prolazi se pokraj tvornice stakla Lipik Glas. Kupci stakla iz pogona Lipik Glasa su Bentley, Lamborghini, McLaren, Aston Martin, Jaguar, BMW, Audi, Rolls-Royce, a u Lipiku su proizvedena stakla za Aston Martin u kojemu se vozio James Bond u najnovijem filmu. I tu su začetnici poslovanja grofovi Janković, koji su potkraj 18. stoljeća počeli s proizvodnjom stakla u Lipiku jer je u obližnjem Blatuškom brdu nađen kremeni pijesak, a majstore staklare uvezli su s obiteljima iz Češke. Unatoč velikom razaranju tijekom Domovinskog rata, Lipik se brzo oporavio. To osobito ističe Ivana Pleše na ulazu u poznati park, preko puta kojega se nalazi negdašnja velika robna kuća Budućnost. Iako vrlo oštećena tijekom rata, robna je kuća sanirana, urešena plakatima i cvijećem te se u njoj održavaju koncerti i izložbe. Ona je simbol lipičkog duha koji ne gubi sabranost ni u najtežim trenucima i može i istodobno oplakivati rane i raditi, što rijetkima uspijeva. Većina je građana tijekom Domovinskog rata ostala u svom gradiću i kao da su odlučili kao naraštaj ostaviti traga, utkati se u mnoge prethodne generacije poduzetnih sugrađana koji ne kukaju nego rade. Putokaz im pritom može biti i baština, osobito plemićka, jer mnogi plemići i danas kažu da su imanje posudili od prethodnih naraštaja i na68
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stoje ga u boljem izdanju predati sljedećem. Uzmimo za primjer grofove Jankoviće koji su u razdoblju od stotinu godina, u četiri naraštaja, organizirali gospodarski život u Lipiku. Riječ je o Antunu, Ivanu, Izidoru i Juliju. Jankovići su bili poput velikoga obiteljskog poduzeća, holdinga ili korporacije u kojoj ima mnogo manjih poduzeća, tj. imanja na području Daruvara, Pakraca i Lipika. Možemo ih zamisliti ne samo kao vlasnike, nego i kao predsjednike nadzornog odbora koji određuje strategiju poslovanja, a o njihovom znanju i umijeću ovisio je uspjeh poduzeća i sjaj roda. Konkretnim poslovima upravljanja bavio bi se provisor, što bi odgovaralo današnjoj funkciji direktora ili menadžera, za računovodstvo bi se brinuo exactor, a važan za transakcije bio je i fiskal, odnosno odvjetnik. Uz njih je radilo nekoliko nižih službenika, a u većim selima za poslovanje bi bio odgovoran ispan, tj. nadstojnik. U upravnoj strukturi bili su uglavnom zaposleni Nijemci i Mađari, iako je jedan od upravitelja potkraj 18. st. bio i Hrvat Franjo Lipljanić (jedan od značajnih darovatelja pri gradnji crkve sv. Franje Asiškog u Lipiku). Za gradnju i održavanje vlastelinskih građevina i tvrtke angažirani su stručnjaci za uzgoj poljoprivrednih kultura, vinciliri, podrumari i obrtnici različitih profila. U potrazi za najboljim
radnicima grof je Izidor 1873. u Požunu, današnjoj Bratislavi, u raznim novinama nekoliko puta čak i oglašavao poziv za doseljavanjem Čeha, Slovaka, Nijemaca i Mađara na daruvarska područja. Nekadašnji gastarbajteri ostali su u tom kraju pa u Lipiku i danas postoje društva i udruge Čeha, Mađara i Talijana. Jankovići mađarskog su podrijetla, a začetnik loze Antun rođen je 1729. godine u Pečuhu, gdje je završio pravo i filozofiju. Radio je kao pravni zastupnik Virovitičke županije, a 1756. prihvatio je dužnost podžupana Požeške županije. Odlučio se za investiciju u Pakrac, gdje 1760. kupuje vlastelinstvo Pakrac, a nešto poslije i Daruvar. Ondje 1777. dovršava dvorac u kojem se nastanjuje. Grofovski naslov dodijeljen mu je 1772. godine, a od 1773. do 1785. bio je veliki župan Požeške županije. Na susjednom imanju Stražeman od 1777. godine gospodario je kao vlasnik njegov brat Ivan. Iako je i on bio visokoobrazovan, u fokusu mu je bilo gospodarstvo i ostao je zabilježen kao vrlo aktivan gospodarstvenik koji unapređuje stočarstvo, vinogradarstvo i voćarstvo, a ulaže i u ribogojstvo (jezera Raminac i Pjeskara nastavljaju tradiciju, na njima i danas uživaju mnogi ribiči rekreativci, ali i ljubitelji prirode na uređenim šetnicama i biciklističkim stazama koje ih okružuju). Nakon Antunove smrti,
Ivan postaje i njegovim nasljednikom pa mu imanje tada obuhvaća 72 sela! Nakon četiri godine umire i Ivan pa direktorica postaje njegova supruga Alojzija iz roda Feštetića do punoljetnosti sina Izidora, kojega nasljeđuje sin Julije. Zajedničko je firmi Janković (i sinovi) korištenje prirodnih resursa pa već potkraj 18. st. osnivaju manufakture sukna i vunenih tkanina, bojadisaonicu, staklanu i potiču uzgoj dudova svilca. Svako vrijeme ima svoje ratove i gospodarska previranja te nove početke. U to vrijeme Josip II. počinje s ukidanjem kmetstva, seljaci prestaju biti kmetovi, a Napoleonovi ratovi donose ideju slobode, ali i bankrot Austrijskog Carstva 1811. godine. Bilo je to i vrijeme seljačkih buna, a poznata je ona usmjerena protiv Izidora, poznatog prznice, sklonog bičevanju seljaka - tadašnjem obliku mobbinga radnika. No grofovi bi svaku nevolju prihvatili kao sastavni dio života i opet bi nastavili poslovati, iako u promijenjenim uvjetima. Danas se Lipik možda najviše povezuje s termalnim lječilištem i poznatim perivojem, a i tu su veliku ulogu imali grofovi Jankovići. Tako je grof Antun 1773. godine pozvao varaždinskog liječnika Lalanga da posjeti i opiše Lipik. Tada su uzorci termomineralne vode poslani na analizu u Beč, grade se kupališne zgrade s trima prostranim kupkama s napa-
janjem iz jednog izvora s temperaturama od 38 do 47 stupnjeva Celzijusa. Iz tog doba datira i gostionica K izvoru (Zur Quelle) koja i danas postoji i koristi se za konferencije i razne skupove, a smještena je na glavnom raskrižju u Lipiku. (U nekadašnjoj gostionici više se ne objeduje, ali to je moguće u obližnjem restoranu Nada.) Voda se rabila za liječenje reumatskih, probavnih, kožnih i posebice spolnih bolesti. Kao nadopuna terapeutskom liječenju pila se i voda s izvora. U početku 19. st. sagrađene su Ivanova i Antunova kupka, a poslije 1820. godine podignuta je i nova kupališna zgrada s tri kupelji. Poslije gradnje tih kupelji, počelo je sredinom 19. st. i uređenje perivoja kad se između kupališne zgrade i gostionice formiraju dekorativni vrtovi i cvjetne gredice. U anale - piše u pomno istraženoj i tečno napisanoj knjizi Park u Lipiku autora Zelića i Crnjca - ušao je rad vrtlara Franje i Vlade Kostivlyija, koji su šezdesetak godina bili zaduženi za lječilišni perivoj. Svoje cvjetne tepihe najprije bi skicirali na papiru, onda bi svaku vrstu cvijeća slagali u ornament i poslije sadili u vrtu. Gredice su bile okrugloga ili pravokutnog oblika, a u njihovoj sredini stajalo bi stablo banane ili palme, koje bi se zimi spremalo u oranžeriju, tj. zimski staklenik. Danas su palme poredane tik do zgrade lje-
čilišta, a zanimljivo je da su palme, koje i danas krase splitsku rivu, uzgojene u lipičkoj vrtlariji. Oko njih sadile bi se obično kane, pa niže sezonsko cvijeće u više boja (neveni, šeboji, ognjivci, perjanice, lobelije i sadarke). U početku 19. stoljeća, kažu, Lipik je osobito voljela Izidorova polusestra, grofica Jelka rođena 1796. godine. U blizini Mramornih kupki (1886.) stoji i danas kamena klupa na kojoj se rado odmarala, a nedaleko od Kursalona, sagrađenoga 1894., važan je perivojni građevinski objekt Jelkin brijeg, na čijem je vrhu sjenica za odmor i slušanje glazbe iz obližnjeg paviljona. Grofovi s vremenom zapuštaju termalno lječilište i ono doživljava uzlet s novim vlasnikom, Antunom Knollom iz Vukovara, koji ga kupuje 1867. i potiče gradnju arteškog bunara na dubini od 234,7 m. Ta se investicija isplatila jer je osiguran stalni protok vode. Kupališno vrelo ili Antunovo vrelo podignuto je kao paviljon 1870.godine. Gosti bi dolazili do vrela, točili vodu u čaše, te bi u laganom hodu šetali perivojem, često uza zvuke kupališnog orkestra koji je svirao prije i poslije podneva. Vrlo brzo počelo je punjenje i prodaja mineralne vode pod nazivom Lipiker Thermallquelle na njemačkom jeziku i Lipik Heviz na mađarskom jeziku. Na etiketi je uvijek bila slika Kursalona s vrtnim parterom i analiCROATIA AIRLINES
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za mineralnog sastava vode. Od 1920. godine na tržištu se pojavljuju dva oblika flaširane vode iz Lipika i to: Lipička alkalna jodna ljekovita voda - punjena u bocu od 1l i Lipička alkalna jodna stolna voda - punjena u bocu od 1,4l i 0,5l, a danas se prodaje pod nazivom Studena. Prijelaz stoljeća bilo je doba velikog naseljavanja na lipičko područje iz ostalih dijelova Monarhije koja je, kao i današnja EU, poznavala slobodu protoka ljudi i roba na vlastitom tržištu. Tako 1900. godine Lipik ima 971 stanovnika (550 Hrvata, 232 Mađara, 92 Nijemca, 58 Srba, 27 Židova, 19 Čeha, 4 Talijana, 2 Slovaka i 8 nepoznatih), a radi 40 obrtničkih radnji. Godine 1886. sagrađene su Mramorne, Rimske i Salonske kupke, preuređene Kamene, a u svima su postojale i saloni za čitanje s knjigama i 25 novina i časopisa na jezicima Monarhije. Oko perivoja niču
prekrasne vile i grade se hoteli i penzioni, 1892. sagrađena je i natkrivena šetnica Wandelbahn s nizom trgovina i glazbenim paviljonom u sredini. (U planu je obnova i otvaranje malih prodavaonica u njemu a tada će i Klaudija Pintarić s OPG-a Pintarić nuditi lokalne proizvode kao što je primjerice Melem od gaveza, koji, uz drugo ljekovito bilje, uzgaja na svom imanju u Klisi te od njega izrađuje pripravke.) U to je vrijeme gostovao u Lipiku čak i tada najpoznatiji svjetski tenor Enrico Caruso te poznati ruski bas Šaljapin. Lipik je tada nalikovao na poznate kupke Monarhije kao što su Marienbad, Karlsbad i Baden Baden. Vrijeme plemića i buržoazije na višemjesečnom liječenju je prošlost, ali tradiciju liječenja s ponosom i marom nastavljaju u Specijalnoj bolnici za medicinsku rehabilitaciju Lipik, gdje se provodi rehabilitacija neuroloških stanja i
danput mjesečno održavaju koncerti klasične glazbe. Zainteresirani posjetitelji mogu saznati više o gradiću i običajima tijekom stručnog vodstva uz kostimiranog vodiča na Jelkinoj stazi, a povod posjetu mogu biti i mnoge manifestacije tijekom cijele godine (Sajam cvijeća u svibnju, Lipanj u Lipiku, Dan zdravlja, Retro sajam, Ivanjski krijesovi u Dobrovcu, Streetball Lipik - 3x3 Challenger, Ajvarfest, Dan voćara, Dan Grada, Fišijada, Miris Božića u Lipiku u suradnji s Božićnom bajkom obitelji Salaj, Maškare, Maskenbal). Da se tradicija čuva i njeguje, svjedoči i OPG Božić, smješten tik do rijeke Pakre, u podnožju bogatih hrastovih šuma i vinograda. Na imanju je izložba starih strojeva i pomagala za poljodjelstvo te etnokućica s prekrasnom okućnicom, nagrađenom 2010. godine. Gostima se nudi obilazak i razgledavanje gospodarstva kao i mo-
Zatvoreni bazen u Specijalnoj bolnici za medicinsku rehabilitaciju Lipik otvoren i za građanstvo Indoor swimming pool in the Lipik Special Hospital for Medical Rehabilitation is open to public
bolesti, reumatskih bolesti, posttraumatskih stanja, te postoperativna rehabilitacija i liječenje smetnji kontrole mokraćnog mjehura. Osobit uspjeh bilježe u liječenju bolesnika od multiple skleroze, provode i preventivno liječenje i prakticiraju zdravstveni turizam. Od lipnja do listopada radi kompleks otvorenih bazena smještenih u perivoju i nudi osvježenje i zabavu tijekom ljetnih mjeseci. Iako rjeđe nego prije, i danas se organiziraju književne večeri i koncerti za posjetitelje i mještane, osobito u Multikulturalnom centru smještenom u zgradi bivše osnovne škole, sagrađene 1886. godine. U njemu se nalazi gradska knjižnica i čitaonica, spomen-soba poginulim braniteljima Lipika, glazbeni odjel, ured zajednice Talijana Lipik, učionica za strane jezike i dvorana za seminare i izložbe, u kojoj se je70
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gućnost sudjelovanja u radovima na gospodarstvu, upoznavanje domaćih životinja, kušanje autohtonih proizvoda, sportske aktivnosti za odrasle, razonoda za djecu. U posebnoj ponudi ističe se svježa janjetina s mogućnošću samopripreme, svježe voće i povrće iz vlastitog uzgoja te ostali proizvodi sa OPG-a. Lipik vas čeka! www.lipikvasceka.com Just look at those beautiful beasts!, exclaims a middle-aged man from Split. Aha, his female companion agrees enthusiastically. They’re not like our donkeys, a round man adds as he lifts his t-shirt over his belly in an attempt to cool himself off. All of this can be heard during tours of the State Stud Farm of Lipik, the former Izidorovac, named after the founder and owner - Count Izidor Janković (1789 -
1857). Visitors from Split, having already seen the stables, curiously watch the playful animals on the grazing grounds. In the first part of the tour, they saw studs, while the second part is all about the mares and foals. All of it is clean and a pleasant smell of freshly-laid hay is the predominant scent. Check this out! The visitors’ attention turns to a horse pool in which the farmhands regularly keep the horses washed and clean. All of this inspires further comments from Dalmatian visitors, who have been visiting Slavonia more often for some time now; the tour includes the renowned Lipizzaner Horse Farm. As it turned out, we were to partake in their tour, along with Mrs. Ivana Pleše, an employee of Lira (the Lipik Development Agency), which is owned by the city. She noted that there were written documents indicating that Count Izidor
has been open ever since, with short spurts of inactivity, especially during the unfortunate Homeland War in 1991. At the height of Serb attacks on Lipik, on September 26th, 1991, farm hands released the horses from the stables. On September 27th, the stables were shelled and burned to the ground. Of the 118 horses, mostly Lipizzaner, some 80 were taken to occupied territory, and 35 horses were killed and subsequently exhumed in February 1992. Negotiations between the governments of the Republic of Croatia and the Federative Republic of Yugoslavia, later Serbia, regarding the return of the horses, took place in the years after the war. Via the Ministry of Culture, the Croatian government invested around a million HRK to rebuild the stables, which became property of Poljoprivreda Lipik after the transition. In October Otvoreni bazeni u Zdravstvenorekreacijskom centru Lipik nude osvježenje ljeti Outdoor swimming pools in the Lipik Health and Recreation Centre offer refreshment in summer months
founded his stables, spreading across 600 acres on a farm in the vicinity of Lipik, in 1843. He bred studs specialized for farm work as well as for the needs of the army and police, used for pulling and riding. At the time, the state encouraged horse breeding because horses were the main form of transport and working animal before the emergence of the steam engine and internal combustion engine. They were used in hunting, and they were the main force of the police and army. His son, Julije, inherited the farm in 1849, but he sold it in 1861. As of 1906, the next significant owner was Stjepan Layer of Virovitica, and the farm boasted approximately twenty Lipizzaner, Nonius and Anglo-Arabian mares as well as three studs. Already then, their purity and prestige was held in high regard. The farm
2007, the horses finally returned home, from Serbia to Lipik. Of the 118 horses present on the day of the attack, the farm reclaimed 66 of them - 25 mares and 21 studs of the Lipizzaner breed, 20 warmbloods and two ponies. The government act of 2010 initiated the merging of the Croatian Centre for Horse Breeding - the Lipik State Stud Farm, with the Lipizzaner State Stud Farm from Đakovo. The farm is extremely tidy and orderly, and the functioning of a well-organized and diligent team is evident at every step. Across the road from the stables is a park with old oak trees centuries old. It features comfortable benches used for gatherings and cultural events. Despite the heat, its shade is entirely different to that of café-bar canopies or air-conditioners. One can sit in the park until everything
falls into place before moving on. Visitors from Split rest there, amazed by the dense shade and the beauty of the forests on the horizon. All around is peace and quiet, tranquillity, and the graceful movement of horses combined with the elegant movement of farm hands who take care of the animals. The corral is empty, but visitors can ride in it for HRK 100 per hour, as well as take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage, but a reservation is needed first. The farm is located in the suburbs of Lipik when arriving from the direction of Kutina. The road into the centre of town passes by the Lipik Glas glass factory. Buyers of their products are Bentley, Lamborghini, McLaren, Aston Martin, Jaguar, BMW, Audi, and Rolls Royce, so Lipik is the place where all glass panels for the Aston Martin, driven by James Bond in CROATIA AIRLINES
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the latest franchise instalment, were made. The Janković counts were also pioneers of this trade, having started manufacturing glass in Lipik in the late 18th century because quartz was discovered at nearby Blatuško Brdo and they imported master glassmakers along with their families from the Czech Republic. Despite much devastation during the Homeland War, Lipik has recovered. This is accentuated by Mrs. Pleše at the entrance to the famous park, opposite a onetime department store called Budućnost (Future). Although it was badly damaged in the war, the department store was rebuilt, adorned with posters and flowers, and it now serves as a venue for concerts and exhibitions. It is a symbol of the spirit of Lipik, which has not lost serenity even in the most difficult of times; it is capable of grieving and working at the same time - a rare quality nowadays. Most citizens remained in their town during the Homeland War, as if they had decided to leave a mark as a generation and become part of the numerous generations of citizens before them who succeeded because they worked instead of complained. Their guide was their heritage of nobility, because they still say today that they have borrowed the farm from previous generations, and they strive to pass it on to the next in an even better state. The Janković counts, for example, have organized the economy in Lipik over four generations or a hundred years. Their names were Antun, Ivan, Izidor and Julije. The Jankovićs were like a large family business, a holding company or corporation, which consisted of many smaller businesses, such as farms in Daruvar, Pakrac and Lipik. We can imagine them not only as owners, but committee presidents who determine business strategy. The success of the company and their good family name depended heavily on their knowledge and skills. Specific management tasks were the job of the socalled provisor, something like a modern-day manager, while book-keeping was the job of an exactor. The fiscal or attorney was also very important in the transaction process. Several assistants worked for them, while larger villages had an ispan or a caretaker who was responsible for the business. The management mostly consisted of Germans and Hungarians, although one Croat - Franjo Lipljanić (one of the most significant donators during the construction of the church of St. Francis of Assisi in Lipik), was one of the managers in the late 18th century. Agricultural experts, wine makers and tradesmen of various profiles were contracted to build and maintain the infrastructure. Searching for the best workers, in 1873, Count Izidor invited the 72
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Czechs, Slovaks, Germans and Hungarians to move to the Daruvar area in numerous local newspapers in Pressburg - modern day Bratislava. The onetime guest workers remained in the area, so there are still associations of Czechs, Hungarians and Italians in Lipik today. The Janković family are of Hungarian origin, and the oldest, Antun, was born in 1729 in Pecs, where he studied philosophy and law. He worked as a legal advisor for Virovitica County, and in 1756, he accepted the position of Vice-prefect of Požega County. He decided to invest in Pakrac, where he bought the Pakrac Farm in 1760, and a little later, he also purchased Daruvar, where he built a castle for his residence in 1777. He gained the title of count in 1772, and between 1773 and 1785, he served as the main prefect of Požega County. His brother Ivan was the master of neighbouring Stražeman Farm since 1777. Although he was also well educated, his focus was on farming and he went down in history as a very active farmer who improved livestock farming, viticulture and fruit cultivation, and he also invested in fish farming. The Raminac and Pjeskara lakes continue the tradition to this day, and they are enjoyed by many recreational fishermen and fans of nature alike, with many walking paths and bike paths surrounding them. After Antun’s death, Ivan inherited his property, which then consisted of 72 villages! Four years later, Ivan also died so his wife Alojzija of the Feštetić family became manager until their son Izidor became of age. He was, in turn, succeeded by his son Julije. The Janković and Sons Company widely used natural resources, so as of the late 18th century, they established the production of cloth and wool fibre, opened a shop for painting and cleaning leather and textile as well as a glass shop, and they encouraged the cultivation of silkworm. Each period had its wars, economic turmoil and new beginnings. At the time, Joseph II began the abolishment of slavery; peasants stopped being slaves, and the Napoleonic wars introduced the notion of freedom, but also brought about the bankruptcy of the Austrian Empire in 1811. It was a time of peasant uprisings, and one of the most famous ones was aimed against Izidor, a known bully who used to whip his workers - which was a form of workplace mobbing at the time. The counts, however, would accept any sign of trouble as part of life and continue with their business as usual, only under different circumstances! Nowadays, Lipik is probably most known for its thermal baths and its famous park, which were also founded largely thanks to the Janković family. In 1773, Count Antun invited doctor Lalang of
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Varaždin to visit and describe Lipik. Samples of thermo-mineral water were sent for analysis in Vienna, and then three large pools, filled from one main source, with temperatures ranging between 38 and 47 degrees Celsius were opened. A tavern called K izvoru (Zur Quelle), which still stands to this day, and is used for conferences and various gatherings, dates back to that period as well and it is located on the main intersection in Lipik. The onetime inn no longer serves food, but one can eat at the nearby restaurant called Nada. The water was used to treat rheumatic problems, digestive issues, skin diseases and especially sexually transmitted diseases. Apart from therapeutic treatment, the water from the source was also used for drinking. Ivan’s and Antun’s baths were constructed in the early 19th century, while a new building with three baths was erected after 1820. After the construction of these baths, the development of the park between the baths and the inn began in the mid-19 th century. As it is stated in a thoroughly researched and excellently written book, The Park in Lipik, by Zelić and Crnjac, the work of gardeners Franjo and Vlado Kostivlyi, who were in charge of maintaining the garden for some sixty years, is the stuff of legend. They would first sketch their floral carpets on paper, then place each kind of flower into ornaments and finally plant them in the garden. The beds were round or squareshaped, and in the middle were banana or palm trees, which would be moved to the greenhouse during winter. Nowadays, the palms are lined up by the bath buildings, and, interestingly enough, the palms that are on the promenade in Split nowadays once grew in the Lipik garden! Growing around them was 74
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usually canna and lower seasonal, multicoloured flowers including marigolds, wallflowers, evergreen candytufts, cockscombs, lobelias and baby’s breath. It is said that Lipik was particularly loved in the early 19th century by Izidor’s half-sister, Countess Jelka, born in 1796. In the vicinity of the Marble Baths (1886), there is still a stone bench on which she rested, and near the Kursalon, built in 1894, there is an important garden structure - Jelka’s Knoll, with a gazebo atop, which is ideal for resting and listening to music from a nearby pavilion. Over time, the counts abandoned the thermal baths, but it was reinvigorated by the new owner, Antun Knoll of Vukovar, who purchased them in 1867, and initiated the construction of an artesian aquifer at a depth of 234.7 metres. This was a worthwhile investment because it enabled permanent water flow. A bathing spring, or Antun’s spring, was built as a pavilion in 1870. Guests would come up to the spring, pour water into their glasses and stroll along the garden, oftentimes along to the sounds of a resident orchestra, which performed in the mornings as well as in the afternoons. Mineral water called Lipiker Thermallquelle in German, and Lipik Heviz in Hungarian started selling soon thereafter. The label featured an image of the Kursalon with the garden and an analysis of the water’s mineral contents. As of 1920, two different kinds of bottled water from Lipik were available on the market: The alkaloid, iodine medicinal water of Lipik - bottled in 1 litre bottles; and The alkaloid, iodine table water from Lipik, available in 1.4 litre and 0.5 litre bottles. This water is, nowadays, called Studena. The turn of the century was a time of major inhabitation of the Lipik area by people from the rest of the monarchy, which allowed for free migrations and trade on the domestic market, much like the modern-day EU. In 1900, Lipik had 971 inhabitants (550 Croats, 232 Hungarians, 92 Germans, 58 Serbs, 27 Jews, 19 Czechs, 4 Italians, 2 Slovaks and 8 unknown), while 40 trades were registered in town. The Marble, Roman and Salon baths were constructed in 1886, while the Stone baths were renovated; all of them featured reading salons with books and 25 newspapers and magazines in all languages of the monarchy. Beautiful villas, as well as hotels and inns were built around the park. A covered promenade, the Wandelbahn, was built in 1892, featuring an array of stores and a music pavilion in the middle. Renovations and the opening of small stores is in the pipeline, and Klaudija Pintarić of the Pintarić Family Farm will soon be offering local products such as a common comfrey ointment, as well as other
similar products made from medicinal herbs grown on her farm in Klisa. Lipik was visited by the world’s most well-known tenor, Enrico Caruso, and renowned Russian Bass Chaliapin in those days; at the time, Lipik resembled renowned monarchy baths such as Marienbad, Karlsbad and Baden Baden. The time of noblemen and the bourgeoisie spending months in treatment is long gone, but the tradition of healing proudly perseveres at the Lipik Special Hospital for Medical Rehabilitation where the rehabilitation of neurological conditions and diseases, rheumatic problems, post-traumatic conditions as well as postoperative and bladder control issues are treated. Multiple sclerosis patients are also successfully treated there, while preventive treatment and health tourism are also very popular activities. Open swimming pools, located in the park, are open between June and October, and they offer refreshment and entertainment during the summer months. Although not as often as before, literary evenings and concerts for locals and visitors are still organized on occasion at the Multi-cultural Centre; constructed in 1886, it is located in a former primary school, and houses the city library, a memorial room for fallen defenders of Lipik, a music department, the office of the Italian community of Lipik, a foreign languages classroom and a room for seminars and exhibitions, which also features classical music concerts once every month. Interested visitors can find out more about the town and its customs in a tour guided along Jelka’s Path by a guide dressed in traditional costume. Others reasons to visit Lipik are the numerous events taking place throughout the year: the Flower Fair in May, June in Lipik, the Day of Health, the Retro Fair, Saint John’s Eve in Dobrovac, Streetball Lipik - 3x3 Challenger, Ajvarfest, the Day of Fruit Growers, the day of the Town, Fišijada, the Smell of Christmas in Lipik in cooperation with the Christmas Fairy Tale by the Salaj Family, and various carnivals… Tradition is also nurtured at the Božić Family Farm, located by the Pakra River; in the valley below, there are thick oak forests and vineyards. The farm features an exhibition of old farming machinery and tools as well as a small ethno house with a beautiful awardwinning garden (2010). Guests can tour the farm as well as partake in farm work, get to know the animals, taste autochthonous produce and indulge in sporting activities for adults and entertainment for kids. The special offer consists of fresh lamb (which you can make yourself), fresh fruit and vegetables and other farm products. Lipik is waiting for you! www.lipikvasceka.com
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PASSING THROUGH THE SAHARA
Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Saša Pjanić
Pustinja kao da briše nepravdu i razliku. Ondje je naizgled moguće pobjeći od svega. Ondje ste samo vi i pusta divljina. A ako se i ukaže netko kada zalutate na pogrešan put, zapnete u pijesku ili ostanete bez vode, po pravilu je prijatelj i brat. Misli se roje dok samotno vozilo sopće po crnom vulkanskom šljunku. Saharom u prolazu u svom najspektakularnijem izdanju. The desert seemingly erases injustice and personal differences. It seems as if it is possible to get away from everything there. It’s just you and the desolate wilderness. And if someone should appear when you stray on your path, get stuck in the sand or run out of water, it will most likely be a friend or a brother. Thoughts run free as your lonely vehicle treads along the black volcanic gravel passing through the Sahara in its most spectacular edition.
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lično je kao i na jedrenju. Utipkate koordinate u navigacijski uređaj i nastojite pratiti ravnu crtu. No površina je najčešće nemirna, pa, uzbibani, krivudate obilazeći valovite barhane. Katkada orcate u vjetar, dok vam pješčani reful zasipa haubu i plutate usjeklinama što su je iznenadne bujice izdubile u stijeni. Kad plavetnilo presiječe žuta ravna ploča, oduševljeno date gas. Pasatni uzgon iz brujećih cilindara drži brzinu i smjer, sve dok se na kraju nešto ne ukaže na horizontu; guelb, oaza, kasba, ksar. Ili, u osami ispod dine, ljudi-lutalice, šatori i prašni lim. Utaboreni uz vatru, iščekuju da padne mrak. A onda, sve se gasi, sve nestaje. Osim gromoglasnoga, noćnog svoda koji u potpunoj tišini vrišti od sjaja. Pothlađeni pijesak ispod vas i tisuće svjetova iznad. U pustinji zapravo nikada niste sami. Bilo je hladno zimsko jutro kada smo prelazili Soču. Vipavska bura razbistrila je maglu i niske oblake, otkrivajući bijele vrhove Julijskih Alpi. Iza nas je maglovita noć i sipka rosa, koja još od Varaždina škropi platno krovnog šatora. Ispred nas blistava zora i gotovo 9000 km do Bamaka. Potkraj sedamdesetih Thierry Sabine, izgubivši se najprije u njoj, približio je Saharu novim oktanskim izazovima. Tako je nastao Dakar reli, priča o opasnosti i brzini, automobilističkim asovima i izdašnim sponzorima, šampanjcu i slavi, ali i javnim kritikama o bahaćenju u svijetu gdje glad i siromaštvo
još nisu nadvladani. No nismo mi, moderni ljudi željni uzbuđenja, izmislili putove kroz pustinju. Drevni saharski špediteri davno su utrasirali pravce koji već stoljećima povezuju Sredozemlje i Zapadnu Afriku. Jedan takav put, primjerice, kretao bi s marokanskog juga, u prijestolnice gornjeg Nigera; Kuombi Saleh, Niani, Timbuktu. Najveće zalihe zlata na dvorove srednjovjekovne Europe tim su putovima stizale upravo iz Podsaharske Afrike. U gradovima poput Sijilmase i Oualate obavljala se razmjena, saharska sol za malijsko zlato. Ali trampilo se i robljem, bjelokosti i začinima. Da bi povorka dromedara i ljudi umotanih u odjeću plave boje prešla Saharu, trebalo je gotovo dva mjeseca. Svaki dan počinjao bi bismilom u praskozorje. Zatim bi slijedio dugi dnevni marš te na kraju okrepa pred počinak, uz devino mlijeko, datulje, čaj i taguellu, beskvasni kruh od prosenog brašna, koji se pekao na ugljenu zakopanom u pijesku. Još i danas Tuarezi u Maliju dopremaju sol sa sjevera u Timbuktu na stari način. Logično je da se takvi pothvati poduzimaju u doba godine kada dnevne temperature još dopuštaju kretanje pod inače nesmiljenim saharskim nebom. To je vrijeme od studenog do početka ožujka. Kada je klimatologija posrijedi, u paralelnom svijetu mehanike, turaže i satelitske navigacije vrijede ista pravila. Pred advent sve je već spremno. Nakon praznika pakiraju se stvari; šatori, kanistri, plinska kuhala, sand laddersi, rezervne CROATIA AIRLINES
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gume, dizalice, vitla, kamere, fotoaparati. Sredinom siječnja cesta vas već vodi na jug. Tek uski tjesnaci i prokopi učinili su Mediteran takvim morem da, kada umočiš prst, postaješ povezan s cijelim svijetom. Aziju s Europom povezuju bosporski mostovi, pučinama ispred Magreba plove trajekti. Od Genove do Cadiza, od Tangiera do Tunisa. Nažalost i bujice emigranata koji čak od ekvatorijalne Afrike preko Sahela, Zapadne Sahare i Maroka, morem žele u Europu. Čekajući na ulazak u Maroko na graničnom prijelazu Melilla-Nador, polako se probijamo kroz bučne kordone ljudi. Neki su bezbrižni i nasmijani, neki pak sa strepnjom prate svaki mig pograničnih policajaca. Od lokalnih Berbera Rifa koji uz skromnu naknadu strancima pomažu ispuniti službene formulare, sastavljene pretežno na francuskome, do tamnoputih Kamerunaca. Susret s ljudima koji kao vi, samo iz suprotnog smjera, na svom putovanju života prelaze tek jednu od mnogih administrativnih barijera, navodi na preispitivanje. Tko ima jači motiv za prelazak Sahare? Vi koji za ne baš sitan novac želite upoznati drugo i drugačije, riskirajući eventualno zdravlje vašega limenog ljubimca, ili oni koji traže život dostojan čovjeka, stavljajući na kocku sve. Afrika je kontinent golemoga prirodnog bogatstva i, moglo bi se reći, prokletstva koje to bogatstvo donosi. No Afrika je kontinent koji ulijeva strahopoštovanje i malo
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koga ostavlja ravnodušnim. Negativan imidž siromaštva, gladi i nestabilnosti, koji, nažalost, i nije samo imidž, ne bi trebao stajati na putu onima koji žele upoznati ovaj kontinent. To je moje uvjerenje koje sam stekao putujući s prijateljima Damirom Filipovićem i Stanislavom Modrićem na jednomjesečnoj overland ruti od Hrvatske do Malija. Put od Varaždina do Bamaka prevezli smo i službeno, kao jedine dvije hrvatske posade sudionice relija Budimpešta-Bamako. U povratku kratili smo rutu kroz Mali, Mauretaniju i Maroko, no sveukupna kilometraža na kraju puta bila je veća od one između Pariza i Pekinga. Reli Budimpešta-Bamako najveći je amatersko-humanitarni reli na svijetu. Posade, kojih je ove godine bilo oko 130, osim doživljaja prave oktanske pustolovine, sa sobom dopremaju i pomoć u obliku sanitarnog materijala, higijenskih potrepštna, školskog pribora, odjeće, računala i lijekova, koje u zabačena sela Mauretanije i Malija dopremaju doslovce na vrata. Cijelu je zamisao prije 11 godina pokrenuo mađarski poduzetnik, radijski DJ i entuzijast Andrew G. Szabo. S obzirom na slabo razvijenu prometnu infrastrukturu, putovanje automobilom ili motociklom po Africi zapravo i nije neracionalan izbor. Iznenađuje, primjerice, koliko je malo kilometara željezničke pruge na prostoru od Tangera do Bamaka. Čak i u Maroku, gdje
je željeznička mreža jedna od boljih na kontinentu, velik dio teritorija ostaje izvan njezina domašaja. Na 3500 km ceste od Marakeša do Bamaka samo su dva zasebna pravca. Prvi, sjeverniji, kraća je pruga kroz mauretanijsku Saharu, koja spaja ležišta željezne rude s lukom Noadhibou. Namijenjena je isključivo teretnom prometu, a kuriozitet je da njome prometuje najdulja kompozicija vlaka na svijetu, duga nešto više od 3 km. Druga trasa, ujedno i najdulja u Zapadnoj Africi, pruga je koja spaja dvije luke, Dakar na Atlantiku i Koulikoro, na rijeci Niger u Maliju. Unatoč bizarnim superlativima to je manje više sve kada je posrijedi željeznica. Preostaju vam još prekrcani autobusi, bush taxiji ili vlastito vozilo, po mogućnosti terensko. Pardon! Putem smo sretali i bicikliste i hodače. Prednosti individualnog prijevoza, pa bili to samo pinklec i tenisice, jesu arbitraran odabir najčešće besplatnog prenoćišta i zalaženje u predjele u koje teško da biste ikada zašli. Sahara je uvriježeni toponim za najveću toplu pustinju na svijetu. Na arapskome je jeziku koji u sjeverozapadnu Afriku stiže s omejidskim osvajačima u 7. i 8. stoljeću. No postoji i stariji naziv na jeziku tuareških Berbera, koji glasi Tinariwen, a znači isto što i Sahara, pustinje. Upravo je važan naglasak na pluralu. Naime, Sahara, kao što se često prikazuje, nije samo jednolično more pješčanih dina. Ona je golem sklop ergova ispresijecanih samotnim, eruptivnim masivima, kamenim visoravnima i stjenovitim hamadama u koje su se usjekli dugački vadi. I to u golemom rasponu od Atlantika do Crvenog mora. Na južnim rubovima marokanskoga grada Errachidia, s jugoistočne strane Visokog Atlasa, ulazimo u Vadi Ziz, dug stjenoviti kanjon čije je korito obraslo nasadima datuljinih palmi. Na našem putu to su sjeverna vrata Sahare. Vijugava cesta vodi nas kroz ksarove, tipična magrepska naselja u obliku fortifikacija s kućama od nepečene opeke, zbijenih oko seoskih žitnica i hambara. Premda su tempo i način života u ovom dijelu Maroka podređeni toplome i sušnom podneblju te bitno drugačiji od mediteranskog sjevera, naseljima uz polusuho korito prolazimo u kasno poslijepodne pa je život na ulicama prilično intenzivan. Uobičajena slika Magreba u rano predvečerje; žene umotane u čadore i muškarci u pustenim galabijama s čunjastim kapuljačama i papučastim, kožnim natikačama. Mlađe djevojke prilično skladno kombiniraju hijab i uski jeans, a dječaci na pragu muškosti jure za loptom po prašnim predgrađima. Uza sve to idu još i zaprege, mazge, bazari, suvenirnice, nakit i poneki kamper sa sjevera Europe na putovanju u vječno ljeto. Ukratko, živopisno, sunčano i nadahnjujuće
pa i ne čudi što se po cijelome Malom Atlasu, osobito u okolici grada Ouerzazata, nalaze veliki filmski studiji gdje su svoja uprizorenja doživjeli mnogi slavni filmovi. Maroko je kraljevina s ponešto drugačijom prošlošću od većine afričkih zemalja. Izuzevši kraće razdoblje francuske i španjolske uprave, suverenitet arapskih sultana seže u 11. stoljeće. Razdoblje strane vlasti između 1912. i 1956. na monarhiju se ni približno nije odrazilo kao na većinu afričkog kontinenta. Francuski jezik, uza službeni arapski i berberski, zadržao se u širokoj upotrebi. Mladi, obrazovani Marokanci zapravo su poligloti koji, uz tri spomenuta jezika što se uče kroz sustav osnovnog obrazovanja, govore najčešće još i španjolski i engleski. Kraljevina ima tridesetak milijuna stanovnika koji se etnički najčešće izjašnjavaju kao Arapi ili Berberi. Nakon zabačenih dijelova Maroka, uzduž jugoistočne granice s Alžirom gdje smo se uskim i grbavim puteljcima probijali kroz presušena riječna korita ili šjunčanim zaravnima izmišljenim za off road stizali do ergova Chigaga i Chebbi, okrećemo ponovno prema obali. Maroko je danas jedna od najstabilnijih afričkih država, doduše s otvorenim pitanjem južnih granica. I tu nas sada put i priča vode u Zapadnu Saharu, ili Južni Maroko, ovisno iz čije se perspektive gleda na teritorijalno pitanje oko sjeverozapadnog ruba velike pustinje, koja sipkim, strmim liticama završava u Atlantskom oceanu. Kada se vozite cestom od Tan Tana prema El Aaiúnu, poneka samotna stijena na Mjesečevu krajoliku podsjeća na šešir ili pak zmiju koja je progutala slona. Iste je prizore nekoć promatrao i slavni Saint-Exupéry kada je kao pilot francuskog Aeropostalea boravio u gradu Tarfaya. Na mjestu bivše piste danas se nalaze muzej i spomenik podignuti u čast pilotu i velikom pripovjedaču. Nekoliko kilometara južnije, gdje se na pučini jedva naziru obrisi Fuerteventure, ulazite na područje Zapadne Sahare. Njezin veći dio s čitavom atlantskom obalom administrativno pripada Maroku, premda je suverenitet kraljevine prema međunarodnom pravu diskutabilan. Naime, od 1975., kada s područja između rijeke Draa i Pont Blanca odlaze Španjolci, traje sukob između monarhije i lokalnog stanovništva Sahrawi, organiziranog u oslobodilačku frontu Polisario. Mandatom UN od 1992. na snagu stupa primirje koje traje do danas, no referendum o samoodređenju ljudi koji otada nastanjuju Zapadnu Saharu nikada nije proveden u djelo. U međuvremenu je područje naseljavano marokanskim stanovništvom, a aktualni monarh, kralj Muhamed VI. od Maroka, nastoji provesti politiku pomirenja pridošlica sa sjevera i malobrojnih Sahrawija koji nisu izbjegli u susjedni Alžir. Kada prolazite CROATIA AIRLINES
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Zapadnom Saharom, u prvi mah zapažate malobrojnost naselja u kojima se većina toga vrti oko administracije, trgovine, ribolova i turizma. El Aaiún je upravno središte i najveći grad s mnogo novogradnje, kružnih tokova, širokih bulevara i gotovo bez putokaza koji bi vas iz njega izveli van, pa je najbolje slijediti
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navigaciju. Ili u zamjenu za limenku soka, cigaretu ili upaljač, unajmiti uličnog peljara koji će vam pokazati smjer. Do Mauretanije, na putu koji prati obalnu liniju dugu gotovo tisuću kilometara, još su dva veća grada i nekoliko manjih, raštrkanih naselja. Radimo kraće stanke u Boujdouru i Dakhli. Prvi je gradić na pola puta do granice, s ribarskom lukom i brojnim automehaničarskim radionicama gdje overlanderi najčešće servisiraju vozila te, ovisno o podlozi kojom namjeravaju voziti, zamjenjuju gume. Uskoro nas čeka mnogo kamena i pijeska pa, dok se na vozilima obavljaju svi ti zahvati, obilazimo grad. Usput nabavljamo i nešto namirnica za put; meso, začine, povrće, kruh i vodu, koje nikada nije previše. Nakon ukusnoga i krepkog čaja od svježe metvice, koji na rastanku ispijamo s ljubaznim mehaničarima, još za dana krećemo u Dakhlu. Smještena na poluotoku tik do Rakove obratnice, Dakhla je poznato turističko odredište. Zbog obilja vjetra, raj je za europske kite surfere i krajnje poželjno mjesto za predah od duge vožnje u omiljenom stilu kavica na rivi. Stanovništvo Zapadne Sahare pretežno je mlađe dobi, a brojni državni stimulansi poput jeftinog stanovanja, cijene goriva od samo četrdesetak centi i manjih stopa oporezivanja, nastoje privući što više doseljenika sa sjevera.
Doznajemo sve to u usputnim druženjima s brbljavim studenticama čije su se obitelji u Dakhlu doselile iz Cassablance te od Youssofa iz Rabata i mladog Berbera Ibrahima iz Ouarzazata, koji su nam u svom stanu čak ponudili i prenoćište te, uz ukusan tajine od hobotnice, govorili o planovima i budućem restoranu. S obzirom na već spomenutu cijenu goriva, iz Zapadne Sahare ne izlazi se dok vam svi rezervni kanistri nisu dupkom puni. Što ih uspijete više nakrcati na svoje vozilo, više ćete uštedjeti na nafti. Ono što uskoro slijedi, najzahtjevnija je dionica našeg puta do Bamaka. Čeka nas mnogo off roada, duboko u pustinji, u zemlji velikoj poput Francuske, populacije jedva tri milijuna. Mauretanija je službeno islamska republika. Na prvi dojam, na umu su vam posljednji kilometri prije granice i pitanje koje ste si ondje postavljali: Bože, ima li nešto pustije od ove goleti? Odgovor stiže odmah poslije njezina prelaska. Blago rečeno, Mauretanija je neobična zemlja. Najveći je dio veliki pješčani erg, na mnogim mjestima ravan poput bonace. Nerijetko je zrak pun pješčane prašine pa nebo postaje smećkasto i sivo. Sunce se jedva probija ili gubi u pepeljastoj kopreni koja beskonačnu pustoš obasjava nestvarnim, prigušenim svjetlom. Dinamika krajolika mijenja se
u središnjem dijelu, gdje iz pješčanih zameta izranjaju, poput ugljena mrke, stijene visoravni Adrar. Tu se nalazi jedna od najimpresivnijih geomorfoloških struktura u čitavoj Sahari, guelb koji je zbog spiralnog oblika poznat po imenu Oko Sahare. Naselja nastaju ondje gdje ima vode, a takvih mjesta u Mauretaniji nema mnogo. Na obali dugoj oko 750 kilometara lako ih je sve nabrojiti, uključujući i metropolu Nouakchott. To je grad s crtaće daske. Beton, asfalt i ulična rasvjeta sa solarnim panelima kao da pokušavaju zaustaviti sipki pijesak u stalnom nadiranju. Godine 1961., u vrijeme stjecanja neovisnosti, Nouakchott nije bio više od malog ribarskog naselja na muljevitoj obali Atlantskog oceana. Danas u njemu živi gotovo trećina populacije Mauretanije. Približavamo se predgrađu koje se jedva razaznaje kroz vruć, titravi zrak. Na prilaznom bulevaru uobičajena gužva. Dvije trećine urbanoga voznog parka izvozani su Mercedesi, legendarne stodevedesetke, često i bez farova, registarskih oznaka ili stražnjeg vjetrobranskog stakla. Ostalo su prekrcani hop in hop out taksiji i zaprežne dvokolice. Središte djeluje reprezentativno, premda se teško oteti dojmu da većina stanovnika preživljava. Jedan od mnogih načina stjecanja dnevnice od tek nekoliko dolara jest razvažanje vode u bačvama
na magarećim zapregama, mnogima kojima ne teče iz slavine. Tek što smo zamaknuli iz grada, ponovno ravna cesta, deve, pustinja. I miris suhe ribe što nas neprestano prati. More ispred Mauretanije jedno je od najbogatijih ribom. Od toga koristi imaju uglavnom flote europskih zemalja, od Portugala do Latvije, i malobrojna domaća elita koja ubire izdašne koncesijske zarade. Domaći ribari Imraguen, na koje se s viših katova društvene ljestvice gleda pomalo s prijezirom, umjesto mreža krpaju jedino kraj s krajem, prodajući jeftino sušenu ribu. Krivudajući Mauretanijom, osim znatnog bildanja kilometraže, i to uglavnom podalje od asfaltnih putova, nailazili smo na ribare, stočare i beduine. Jedan takav susret s Maurima, koji su se odnekud bili vraćali furgonom, vozeći u njemu devu, počeo je njihovim burnim negodovanjem zbog pokušaja fotografiranja. No situacija se istog trena preokrenula u bratimljenje kada smo stvar pokušali izgladiti kutijom aspirina iz naše putne apoteke. Plus poziranje pred fotoaparatom, obavezna zajednička slika, a da se nije podigao vjetar i počeo nas zasipati pijeskom, devu u prtljažniku morao bih fotografirati još i sad. Doznali smo i tajnu prtljažnika; mužjak za rasplod, trofejni utržak iz susjednog sela, udaljenoga tek stotinjak kilometara. Oduvijek
su ljudi iz pustinje živjeli kao otočani, skromno i oskudno, po pravilima, poznati po strogoći, s vječnim nemirom da se u potrazi za bogatstvom preplovi ta silna i negostoljubiva praznina. Posrednici ili zavojevači, nemilosrdni prema sebi i širokogrudni prema namjerniku, ostavili su traga u srednjovjekovnim pustinjskim gradovima s karavan-sarajima, medresama i knjižnicama koje je pod nazivom stari ksarovi Mauretanije svojedobno prepoznao i Unesco. Mauretanija je poput Malija, Nigera, Čada ili Sudana, zemlja u kojoj se sudaraju bijela i crna Afrika. Berberi i Arapi sa sjevera te razne
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etničke skupine sudanskih Afrikanaca nikada nisu bili preotvoreni jedni prema drugima. To je možda najočitije upravo u Mauretaniji. Političku, gospodarsku i društvenu elitu bez iznimke tvore Beidani, manjina koja govori hasanya arapskim, službenim jezikom republike. Većinu pak predstavljaju razne etničke skupine poput Wolofa, Fulana, Soninki i Bambara, koje žive na južnim granicama države, a pomalo i na marginama društva. Francuski jezik, koji zbog kolonijalnog nasljeđa govore svi, donekle zbližava populaciju, no s obzirom na korjenite razlike teško da se može govoriti o nekom nacionalnom jedinstvu. Ali pustinja kao da briše nepravdu i razliku. Ondje je naizgled moguće pobjeći od svega. Ondje ste samo vi i pusta divljina. A ako se i ukaže netko kada zalutate na pogrešan put, zapnete u pijesku ili ostanete bez vode, po pravilu je prijatelj i brat. Misli se roje dok vozilo samotno sopće po crnom vulkanskom šljunku. Saharom u prolazu u svom najspektakularnijem izdanju. Stotine kilometara ultimativne pustoši krajobraza kao na Marsu. Od srpastih dina na vrelom, titravom horizontu do magmatskih raspuklina i samotnih litica što odolijevaju vjetru i suncu. Gdjekoji spaljeni grm i gdjekoje samotno stablo koje strši iz pijeska. Ljudske prilike niotkud. Tako smo se vozili gotovo dva 84
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dana, stjenovitim visoravnima Adrar i Tagan, jedinom prohodnom stazom u moru pijeska koji ih okružuje. Naposljetku Tidjikja, Kiffa, Ayon el Atrous. Saharu ostavljamo iza nas. Rano prijepodne, nadomak graničnog prijelaza, s tezge uz cestu kupujemo nešto mesa od lokalnog mesara. Sahel je zona rijetkih travnjaka obraslih bodljikavim grmljem, koja se dugim, uskim pojasom pruža od Atlantskog oceana do Afričkog roga. To je krhki ekosustav, potpuno ovisan o hirovima klime koja mu, nepredvidiva kakva već jest, u korist pustinje nemilosrdno otima pedalj po pedalj tla. Ljudi ovdje sa strepnjom gledaju u nebo, pamteći gladne godine i katastrofalne suše. Ono može biti prokletstvo, a može biti i dar. Kako više odmičemo na jug, otvaraju nam se ravnice podsaharske Afrike s usamljenim stjenovitim monolitima. Trava je na njima visoka i gusta, no potkraj siječnja još prilično suha. Proći će još nekoliko mjeseci bez oborina dok je ponovo ne zazelene obilne sezonske kiše. Kada je Ibn Batuta, slavni putnik iz Tangera, u 14. stoljeću prešao Saharu i na svom posljednjem od mnogih putovanja stigao u carstvo dinastije Keita, bio je zatečen spoznajom kako život prosječnog stanovnika odudara od strogoće šerijata. Običaji su mu djelovali raskalašeno, a način odijevanja, koji
je više otkrivao nego skrivao, bio sablažnjiv. Uz izostanak svjetonazorskog ćudoređa, i moj dojam, nakon mnogo stoljeća, zapravo je isti. Čim iz Mauretanije prijeđete u Mali, kao da sve najednom postaje drugačije. Opušteno, šareno i rasplesano. Vozimo se tropskom savanom kroz drvorede baobaba i raštrkana sela s čunjastim kolibama od blata. Ljudi nam priređuju gromoglasan doček uz ciku, pjesmu i udaraljke. Goluždrava djeca guraju se oko auta, otimajući se za pakete. Cadeau, monsieur, cadeau! ori se na francuskom. Starješine sela u svečanim boubouima iskazuju nam dobrodošlicu, a zahihotane žene usukane u
šarene pagne istaknutih oblina, zadovoljno povlađuju zbog deterdženta, sapuna i paste za zube. Mali je siromašna zemlja gdje većina ljudi živi autarkičnim životom zemljoradničkih ili stočarskih zajednica. Zbog nemira na sjeveru, turizam, koji ima veliki potencijal, sada je na kušnji. Titularni narod po kojem su zemlja i nacija dobili ime jesu Malinke, jedna od manjih skupina unutar zapadnoafričkih Mandi. Uz tridesetak jezika koliko ih se u Maliju govori, službeni su bambara i francuski. Veliku iznimku predstavljaju berberski Tuarezi na sjeveru i istoku. I tu se ponovno sudaraju pustinja i savana. Zanimljivo je da na spomen riječi Mali mnogi pred očima vide sliku Tuarega na devi, umotanoga u plavi veo. Dio zasluga za takav imidž pripada i glazbenoj skupini Tinariwen, vjerojatno najpoznatijim malijskim kulturnim ambasadorima, koja preko tzv. sahara bluesa zapravo pjeva o tuareškom revoltu. No bez obzira na predznak, glazba je ono što briše razliku. Tinariwen se u Maliju sluša posvuda, i među Tuarezima i među Mandama. Isto je i sa Seidu Keitom, Rokiom Traore ili već pokojnom legendom Ali Farka Toure. I na kraju Bamako. Kraj puta i početak povratka. A kada su povratci posrijedi, što reći? Putovanje je neizlječiva ovisnost, a Sahari i Africi vraćam se opet. Inšalah!
I
t is similar to sailing. You enter coordinates into a GPS device and attempt to follow a straight line. The surface, however, is often unsteady, so you wobble and swerve around the wavy dunes. You sometimes drag yourself into the wind, while a gust of sand pours over your hood, and you float in the gorges carved in the rock by sudden torrents. Once the blueness is cut by a flat yellow board, you enthusiastically step on the accelerator. The engine maintains its speed and direction, until something appears on the horizon: the Richat Structure, an oasis, a Kasbah or a Ksar; or a nomad people huddled beneath the dunes, tents and dusty tin. Camping by the fire, they wait for nightfall. And then everything shuts down, everything disappears … apart from the gleaming night sky screaming in perfect silence. Underneath is the cool sand, above, a thousand worlds. You are never really alone in the desert. It is a cold, winter morning as we cross the Soča. The bora wind from the Vipava Valley clears the fog and low cloud, revealing the snow covered peaks of the Julian Alps. Behind us, a foggy night and dewdrops, which have been dampening the roof tent canvas since Varaždin. Ahead of us, a bright dawn and almost 9000 km to Bamako. Having first
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gotten lost in it, in the late 1970’s, Thierry Sabine popularized the Sahara Desert for its new high-octane challenges. Thus, it became the Dakar Rally, a story of speed and danger, motorsport legends and rich sponsors, champagne and glory, but also a reason for public critique of such debauchery in a world where hunger and poverty have still not been overcome. It was not us, the modern thrill seekers, who invented paths through the desert, however. Ancient Saharan traders established the routes that connect the Mediterranean with Western Africa a long time ago. One such route, for example, begins in the south of Morocco and leads to the cities of the upper Niger River: Koumbi Saleh, Niani and Timbuktu. The largest shipments of gold arrived in medieval European courts via these routes from sub-Saharan Africa. Cities like Sijilmasa and Oualata were centres for trading Saharan salt for gold from Mali. Slave trade and trade in ivory and herbs were also common. It took almost two months for a group of wanderers wrapped in blue to cross the Sahara. Each day would begin with a basmala at dawn. A long daily march would ensue, followed by a meal before bed, consisting of camel milk, dates, tea and taguella - a yeast free bread made from gluten-free flour, baked on coal buried in sand. To this day, the Tuareg in Mali
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still bring salt from the north into Timbuktu the old fashioned way. It is logical that such tasks are undertaken in the time of year when daily temperatures still allow for traveling under the otherwise cruel Saharan skies. This is the period between November and early March. When it comes to climatology, in a parallel world of mechanics and satellite navigation, the same rules apply. Before the Advent, everything is ready. After the holidays, it is time to pack: tents, canisters, gas cookers, sand ladders, spare tires, jacks, winches, cameras, photo equipment… In mid-January, the road is already taking you south. The narrow straits and canals have turned the Mediterranean into a sea, and once you dip your finger into it, you are connected with the whole world. While Asia and Europe are connected by bridges across the Bosporus, ferries sail the seas in front of Maghreb, connecting Genoa with Cadiz and Tangier with Tunisia. Unfortunately, torrents of emigrants from as far as Equatorial Africa, who have travelled via Sahel, Western Sahara and Morocco, also want to sail across the sea and into Europe. As we wait to enter Morocco at the Melilla-Nador border crossing, we slowly make our way through a cordon of loud people. Some are carefree and smiling, while others anxiously watch every move of the border crossing guards. Many are local Berbers, who help foreigners fill out official forms in French for a nominal fee, while others are dark-skinned Cameroonians. Meeting people who are, much like yourself, but are only going in a different direction on a journey of their lives, going through one of the many administrative barriers, makes you question your motives. Whose motive is stronger to cross the Sahara? Yours? You who’d pay a pretty penny to get to discover something different, risking only the well-being of your vehicle in the worst case scenario, or those seeking a life worthy of a human being, risking everything they have? Africa is a continent plentiful in natural resources, but this abundance is a curse in its own right. Regardless, Africa is a continent which overawes and leaves no one indifferent. A negative image of poverty, hunger and instability, which unfortunately isn’t only an image, should not stand in the way of those who wish to get to know this continent. This is the impression I got while travelling with friends Damir Filipović and Stanislav Modrić on a month-long overland route between Croatia and Mali. We officially drove the route from Varaždin to Bamako as the only two Croatian crews participating in the Budapest-Bamako Rally. On our return journey, we took a shortcut through Mali, Mauritania and Morocco, but
at the end of our journey, we travelled further than the distance between Paris and Beijing. The Budapest-Bamako Rally is the biggest amateur-humanitarian rally in the world. There were about 130 crews this year. Not only is it a genuinely high-octane adventure, but it provides aid to the isolated villages of Mauritania and Mali in terms of sanitary and hygienic equipment, educational materials, clothes, computers and medicine. The rally was started 11 years ago by Hungarian entrepreneur, radio DJ and rally enthusiast Andrew G. Szabo. Considering a poorly-developed transit infrastructure, traveling across Africa by car or motorcycle isn’t such an irrational choice. Surprisingly, there are very few kilometres of railway tracks between Tangier and Bamako. Even much of the territory of Morocco, which boasts one of the best railway networks on the continent, is out of its reach. Along the 3500 kilometre stretch, between Marrakech and Bamako, there are only two railways. The first one in the north, is a shorter track through the Sahara in Mauritania, which connects iron ore mines with the port in Nouadhibou. It serves only for freight traffic and, interestingly, supports the longest train composition in the world, stretching just over 3 kilometres. The second track, the longest one in Western Africa, connects two ports - Dakar on the Atlantic Ocean and Koulikoro on the Niger River in Mali. Despite the bizarre superlatives, that is more or less it when it comes to railways. Other options are overcrowded busses, bush taxis or personal transport, preferably an off-roader. Excuse me! Along the way, we also came across cyclists and pedestrians. The advantages of personal transport, even if it’s just a backpack and a pair of walking shoes, are arbitrary choices of predominantly free overnight accommodation and an opportunity to explore areas one would otherwise not find oneself in. The Sahara is an accepted toponym for the largest warm desert in the world. It comes from the Arabic language, which was introduced in Western Africa by the Umayyad conquerors in the 7th and 8th centuries. There is, however, an older name in the language of Tuareg Berbers - Tinariwen, which means the same thing as the Sahara: deserts. The plural is important. The Sahara is not, as it is often described, an even sea of sand dunes. It is a vast expanse of ergs strewn with solitary, eruptive massifs, stony plateaus, rocky hamadas and expansive wadis, stretching between the Atlantic and the Red Sea. On the southern outskirts of the Moroccan city of Errachidia, on the south-eastern side of the High Atlas, we enter Vadi Ziz - a long rocky canyon whose
www.panorama-zagreb.com www.hupzagreb.com
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bottom is overgrown with date palms. On our journey, this is the northern gate to the Sahara. A winding road leads us through ksour, typical Maghrebi fortification-type settlements, with houses made from adobe, clustered around village granaries. Although the tempo of living and lifestyle in this part of Morocco are adapted to a warm and dry climate, differing significantly from the Mediterranean north, we pass through settlements along a half-dry river bed in the late afternoon so life on the streets is quite intense. A normal image of Maghreb in the early evening: chador-clad women and men wearing djellaba robes with cone-shaped 88
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hoods and slipper-like leather footwear. Younger girls successfully combine the hijab with tight jeans, while boys on the brink of manhood chase the ball through the dusty suburbs. There are also numerous donkeydrawn carriages, bazaars, souvenir shops, jewellery stands and an occasional camper from Northern Europe on a journey through eternal summer. In short, it is picturesque, sunny and inspiring, so it is no surprise that the entire Tel Atlas massif, especially the city of Ouerzazat, is home to major film studios responsible for many famous films. Morocco is a monarchy with a history somewhat different
than most other African countries. Apart from a short period of French and Spanish rule, the sovereignty of Arabic sultans in the area dates back to the 11th century. The period of foreign rule, between 1912 and 1956 has not had an effect on the monarchy like it has on the rest of the African continent. The French language, along with Arabic and Berber, remains in wide use. Young educated Moroccans are in fact polyglots, who learn all three aforementioned languages in school, and also typically speak Spanish and English. The kingdom has around thirty million people, who ethnically declare themselves Arabic or Berber. After crossing isolated parts of Morocco, along the south-eastern border with Algeria, where we meander along the narrow and bumpy paths, making our way through dry river beds and gravely plateaus ideal for off road driving towards the ergs of Chigaga and Chebbi, we once again turn towards the coast. Morocco is, nowadays, one of the most stable African countries, although there is some question about its southern borders. This is where the road and the story take us to Western Sahara or Southern Morocco, depending on where you stand in terms of territorial disputes regarding the north-western edge of the large desert, which ends on the steep cliffs of the Atlantic Ocean. On the road from Tan Tan to El Aaiún, an occasional solitary rock in a moonlike landscape reminds you of a hat or a snake that swallowed an elephant. The same view was once observed by famous writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, while he was based in Tarfaya as an Aeropostale pilot. In the place of the old runway, a museum and monument honouring the pilot and great storyteller can be found. Several kilometres further south, where Fuerteventura Island is just barely visible on the horizon, is the entrance to Western Sahara. Most of it, including the entire length of the Atlantic coast, administratively belongs to Morocco, although the kingdom’s sovereignty is questionable according to international law. The monarchy and local Sahrawi population, organized as the Polisario Liberation Front, have been in conflict since 1975, when the Spanish left the area between the Draa and Pont Blanca rivers. The 1992 UN mandate initiated a truce, which is still in effect today, but a referendum on the national self-determination of peoples who have since inhabited Western Sahara has never taken place. In the meantime, the area has been inhabited by Moroccan people, and the current monarch, King Mohammed VI of Morocco has been striving to implement the policy of reconciliation between the settlers from the north and the few Sahrawi who have not yet emigrated
to neighbouring Algeria. As you pass through Western Sahara, the first thing that becomes obvious is how few settlements there are, and the ones that do exist are predominantly administrative, trade, fishing and tourism hubs. El Aaiún is an administrative centre and the largest city with a great deal of new buildings, roundabouts, wide boulevards and almost no road signs that would lead you out of it, so it is best to follow your GPS device, or offer a local street guide a can of soda, cigarettes or a lighter in exchange for directions. Along the almost thousand kilometre road to Mauritania, stretching along the coastline, there are only two other larger cities and several smaller and scattered settlements. We make short stops at Bojador and Dakhla. The first town is half way to the border and features a fishing port and numerous car maintenance garages in which the overlanders service their vehicles and change their tires depending on which kind of surface they plan to drive. on Ahead of us is a lot of rocks and sand so the vehicles are undergoing all of the necessary preparations; in the meantime, we head to town. Along the way we get some groceries for the trip: meat, seasonings, vegetables, bread and water, which one can never have too much of. After a tasty and reinvigorating cup of fresh mint tea, which we drink with the kind mechanics before leaving, we head towards Dakhla while it is still light. Located on a peninsula right by the Tropic of Cancer, Dakhla is a renowned tourist destination. Thanks to an abundance of wind, it is a paradise for European kite surfers and a desirable pit stop after a long drive. The population of the Western Sahara is predominantly younger, and numerous state incentives such as cheap housing, 40 cent fuel and lower taxation are an attempt to attract as many immigrants from the north as possible. We found all of this out in casual conversations with talkative students whose families moved to Dakhla from Casablanca: Youssef from Rabat, and a young Berber from Ouarzazate named Ibrahim. They offer us accommodations overnight and serve us a tasty octopus tajine as they tell us of their plans to open a restaurant. Considering the aforementioned fuel prices, one does not leave the Western Sahara before filling up all of the spare canisters. The more you pile up onto your vehicle, the more money you save on fuel. What is about to ensue is the most difficult part of our journey to Bamako. A lot of off-roading is ahead of us, deep in the desert, in a country the size of France but with a population of scarcely three million people. Mauritania is officially an Islamic republic. The last few kilometres before the border leave an impression, and the question you keep asking
yourself is: My God, is there anything more desolate than this barren land? The answer presents itself just across the border. To put it mildly, Mauritania is an unusual country. Most of it is a large sandy erg, in many places as flat as ice. The air is often so thick with dust that the sky is brownish-grey. The sun barely breaks through or is lost behind the ashy screen, illuminating the infinite desert with a surreal and dim light. The landscape changes in the central part of the country, where the dark cliffs of the Adrar High-plains emerge from the sand. This is also the site of one of the most impressive geomorphologic structures in the entire Sahara Desert – the Richat Structure, known as the Eye of the Sahara due to its shape. Settlements sprung up where there was water; places like this are scarce in Mauritania. Along the 750 kilometre coast, there are only a handful of them, including the capital Nouakchott. It is a city straight from the drawing board. Concrete, asphalt and street lights with solar panels constantly fight against the relentless onslaught of sand. In 1961, when the country gained independence, Nouakchott was no more than a small fishing village on the muddy shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Nowadays, it is home to almost a third of the entire population of Mauritania. We near a suburb, which is barely visible through the hot, shimmering air. There is a typical traffic
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jam on the main boulevard. Two thirds of the vehicles on the road are ragged Mercedes, the legendary model 190 series, oftentimes with no headlights, registration plates or rear windshields. Other vehicles are overcrowded: hop in - hop out taxis. The city centre is tidy enough, but one cannot help and think that the majority of the population is merely surviving. One of the many ways to make a daily wage is to deliver barrels of water by donkey-drawn carriages to the numerous people who do not have running tap water available. Just as we leave the city, we find ourselves on a straight road again; camels and desert everywhere you look‌ Also, the smell of dry fish follows wherever we go. The sea in front of Mauritania is among the most abundant with fish. European fleets, from Portugal to Latvia, reap the greatest profits; however, along with the local elite that earn money on concession, local Imraguen fishermen, who are looked down upon by members higher on the social scale, barely make ends meet selling dried fish cheaply. Apart from clocking miles, far away from any kind of asphalt surfaces, we meander through Mauritania coming across fishermen, cattle breeders and Bedouins. One such encounter with the Moors, who were returning from somewhere by van, transporting a camel in it, begins with their loud protests at our attempt to photograph them. The situation, however, soon turns into fraternization as we make amends, offering them a box of aspirin from our medicine box. Then we pose in front of the camera together, a compulsory photo; if not for the wind hurling sand at us, I would still be taking photos of the camel in the trunk. We manage to find out its secret, however. It is a breeding male, a trophy purchase from the neighbouring village, some hundred kilometres away. Desert people have always lived like islanders, modestly and sparingly, by the rules, known for their sternness, with eternal strife to seek wealth and overcome the vast and inhospitable emptiness. Arbiters or aggressors, merciless towards themselves and broadminded towards strangers, have left a mark in medieval desert cities with caravanserais, madrasas and libraries, which have been recognized by UNESCO under the name Ancient Ksour of Mauritania. Mauritania is like Mali, Niger, Chad or Sudan - a country where the white and black Africa clash. The Berbers and the Arabs from the north and various ethnic groups of Sudanese Africans have never been too open-minded towards each other. This is probably most evident in Mauritania. The political, economic and social elite consist exclusively of the Beydan, a minority that speaks Hassaniya Arabic - the official language of the Republic. The major90
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Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops... CROATIA AIRLINES
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ity, however, is represented by various ethnic groups such as Wolof, Fulani, Soninke and Bambara - people who live on the southern state borders and on the margins of society. The French language, which is spoken by everyone due to its colonial heritage, brings the population together, but since the differences are so huge, it is difficult to speak of national unity. The desert, however, seems to eliminate the injustice and the differences. It seems like it is possible to escape from it all in the desert. It is just you and desolate wilderness. And if someone shows up, if you stray on your path, get stuck in the sand or run out of water, it is usually a friend or a brother. The mind races as the vehicle solitarily trundles across the black volcanic gravel. Passing through the Sahara in its most spectacular edition... It’s hundreds of kilometres of ultimately desolate landscape reminiscent of the surface of Mars. It ranges from sickle-shaped dunes that shimmer on the 92
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scorching horizon to magmatic cracks and solitary cliffs that defy the wind and the sun. There is an occasional dried up bush and a solitary tree here and there, sticking out of the sand. A human is nowhere to be seen. We drive like that for almost two days, along the rocky plains of Adrar and Tagan, along the only treaded path through a sea of sand that surrounds them. Finally, Tidjikja, Kiffa and Ayoun el Atrous... We leave the Sahara behind. In the early morning, near the border crossing, we buy some meat from the stand of a local butcher. Sahelis, a zone of rare grasslands overgrown with spiky bushes, stretches along a narrow belt between the Atlantic Ocean and the Horn of Africa. It is a fragile ecosystem, completely dependent on the erratic climate, which relentlessly erodes it, inch by inch, in favour of the desert. The locals anxiously observe the skies, remembering years of hunger and catastrophic drought. It can be a curse, but it
can also be a gift. The further south we get, the valleys of sub-Saharan Africa, with their lonely rocky monoliths, reveal themselves to us. The grass is tall and thick, but still quite dry in late January. It will be another few months without precipitation before it once again turns green in abundant seasonal rainfall. When Ibn Batuta, a famous traveller from Tangier, crossed the Sahara in the 14th century and arrived at the empire of the Keita Dynasty on the last days of his many travels, he was taken aback by the realization at just how different life was for ordinary citizens here compared to life under strict Sharia law. The customs seemed loose to him, and the clothing style, which revealed more than it concealed, was shocking. Apart from the morality worldview, many centuries later, my impression is more or less the same. As soon as one crosses from Mauritania into Mali, everything suddenly becomes different: more relaxed, colourful and fun. We drive through a tropical savanna, under baobab trees and through scattered villages with cone-shaped mud huts. People welcome us loudly with song and drumming. Half naked children pile around the car, snatching packages. Cadeau, monsieur cadeau!, they shout in French. The village elders, clad in their formal boubous, welcome us, while the giggling women, wearing tight colourful clothes that accentuate their curves, are pleased at the sight of all the detergent, soap and tooth paste. Mali is a poor country, where most people live autarkic lives within farming or cattle breeding communities. Due to unrest in the north, tourism, which has great potential, has been suffering. The titular people, whom the country was named after, are Malinke - one of the smaller groups of the Western African Mande people. Along with some thirty languages that are spoken in Mali, the official languages are Bambara and French, the Tuareg Berbers in the north and east being the exception. That is where the desert and savanna once again come together. Interestingly, at the mention of the word Mali, many people see an image of a Tuareg wrapped in a blue veil riding a camel. Part of the reason for this is the Tinariwen Band, probably the most popular Malian cultural ambassadors whose so-called Sahara Blues deals with themes of the Tuareg rebellion. However, music is what erases the differences. Tinariwen are popular all over Mali, among the Tuareg and the Mande alike. The same goes for Salif Keita, Rokia Traore and the late legend Ali Farka Toure. At the end of the story, Bamako. The end of the journey and the beginning of a return trip. What can I say about returning? Traveling is an incurable disease, and I shall return to Africa and the Sahara. Inshalah! î ?
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GASTRONOMIJA GASTRONOMY
Hrvati vole hranu, štoviše, obožavaju je. Mnogima je idealno provedeno vrijeme sjedenje na nekoj terasi obasjanoj suncem, uz domaće delicije i pokoji gutljaj vina ili piva… Zato nije čudno da je posljednjih nekoliko godina Zagreb pojačao gastronomsku scenu odličnim, inovativnim i atraktivnim mjestima s domaćom hranom, organskim sastojcima i prefinim receptima. Croats like food, or better yet, they love it! Time spent sitting on a sunny terrace, enjoying the local delicacies and sipping wine or beer is ideal… Therefore, it is no wonder that Zagreb has improved its gastro scene over the last several years with innovative and attractive restaurants offering local home-made food, organic ingredients and numerous tasty recipes. Piπe/By Dubravka Prpić Znaor
Tart od limuna Lemon Tart, Miss Délice
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Fotografije/Photos Vanja Šolin
Miss Délice, Baštijanova 17 Znate li one priče u kojima netko napusti stalan posao kako bi se okušao u privatnom biznisu i ostvario dugogodišnji slastičarski san? Ovo je jedna od takvih priča. - Moj slatki put počeo je još od malih nogu - veli vlasnica Marija Gudelj - rekla bih još otkad sam naučila držati mikser u ruci i kad je mama na moje približavanje pećnici prestala govoriti ne, pec, pec. No, od odlične se učenice očekivalo fakultetsko obrazovanje pa sam tako završila studij kroatistike na Filozofskom fakultetu u Zagrebu i niz godina radila u struci. Cijelo to vrijeme kao da je trajala priprema i prikupljanje hrabrosti da donesem odluku o promjeni struke i svoj dotadašnji hobi i primarnu ljubav pretvorim u zanimanje. Pariz i prestižna škola pekarstva i slastičarstva École de boulangerie et de pâtisserie de Paris (EBP) bila mi je logičan izbor jer htjela sam učiti od najboljih i dobiti diplomu na nacionalnoj razini. Bilo je slatko i teško. Bila sam jedina strankinja u grupi, slu-
Priprema voćnih tartova Miss Délice
šala predavanja na francuskom, davala ispite na francuskom, no sve za dobar francuski zalogaj. Poslije završene škole imala sam sreću raditi u vrhunskim slastičarnicama u Parizu i s poznatim francuskim chefom čiji restoran ima dvije Michelinove zvjezdice. Sestra, koja se sa mnom upustila u ovaj izazov, i ja radimo isključivo francuske slastice, a posebno bih izdvojila moje omiljene éclairs, Paris-Brest, macarons i choux á la crème. Sve kolače radimo po originalnim francuskim receptima i s vrhunskim namirnicama, kojih mnogo nabavljamo iz Francuske kako bi okus bio što autentičniji. U toplije dane prevladavaju kolači sa sezonskim voćem, a zima lakše podnosi čokoladu, orašaste plodove, karamel, kesten. - A koji joj je favorit? - Definitivno Paris-Brest, koji su, na moju veliku radost, prepoznali i naši kupci. Dominiraju moji omiljeni okusi lješnjaka, badema, karamela, a ima i svoju zanimljivu povijest. Naime, neki pariški slastičar zamoljen je da u čast biciklističkoj ruti koja je osnovana 1891., a vozila se od Pariza do Bresta i natrag, osmisli kolač. Tako je napravio kolač u specifičnom obliku kotača.
Šećerenje kolača Paris-Brest Paris-Brest sugar icing, Miss Délice
Miss Délice, 17 Baštijanova Street You’ve heard of those stories in which someone leaves their steady job in order to try his
Preparation of a fruit tart, Miss Délice
or her hand at private enterprise in the hopes of becoming a confectioner? This is one of those stories. - My sweet path began when I was a child, says owner Marija Gudelj. - I have worked since I could hold a mixer in my hands and since my mother stopped warning me against getting too close to the hot oven. However, I was a straight A student so I was expected to go to university, which I did, and I graduated with a major in Croatistics from the Faculty of Philosophy in Zagreb. I worked in this branch for many years. The entire time, however, I felt as if I was mustering up courage and preparing to quit and turn my hobby and greatest love into a profession. The prestigious École de boulangerie et de pâtisserie de Paris (EBP) was a logical choice because I wanted to learn from the best and gain an internationally recognized diploma. It was sweet and difficult. I was the only foreigner in the group; I attended lectures in French, passed exams in French. But anything for a tasty French tidbit. After finishing school, I was fortunate enough to work in the best patisseries in Paris, under a renowned French chef whose restaurant has two Michelin stars. My sister, who has joined me in this sweet challenge, and I make exclusively French paCROATIA AIRLINES
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Interijer u Shabby Chic stilu - Bistro Fotić U pozadini visi stara kamera slavnog hrvatskog fotografa Josipa Klarice. Shabby Chic interior of Bistrot Fotić. Old camera in the background owned by famous Croatian photographer Josip Klarica.
tisseries. Our favourites are the éclairs, ParisBrest, macaroons and choux á la crème. All cakes are made according to original French recipes and with the best ingredients, which they get from France for the most authentic flavour possible. During warmer days, we mostly serve cakes with seasonal fruit, while winters are usually reserved for chocolate, nuts, caramel and chestnut. Which is her favourite? -Definitively the Paris-Brest, and I am happy to say this has also been a favourite of customers. The prevalent flavours are my favourites: hazelnut, almond and caramel, but it also has an interesting past. One confectioner of Paris was asked to come up with a cake to honour the bicycle tour between Paris and Brest founded in 1891. Therefore, he came up with a cake shaped like a wheel! Miss Délice, 099 326 8880
Bistro Fotić, Gajeva 25 Ime ovog bistroa nije slučajno - fotić je skraćeno od fotoaparat. Badrov je, naime, staro zagrebačko prezime koje su stanovnici povezivali s fotografijom jer Foto Badrov je osnovan 1972. godine. A kako je digitalna postajala sve popularnija, Željko Badrov (njegov je otac Ivan pokrenuo obiteljski biznis) shvatio je kako je prenamjena jednoga od prostora u ugostiteljski - pravi poslovni potez. - Prednji dio restorana krasi stari drveni fotoaparat iz 19. stoljeća, tada jedan od najmanjih prijenosnih. Taj dio koji je naknadno preuređena fotoradnja uređen je u shabby chic stilu Za ručak nudimo svježe pripremljena dnevna jela, za večeru tu je izbor iz našeg jelovnika, a nedavno smo uveli i doručak na osnovi švedskog stola kao i à la carte. Hrana se temelji na sezonskim namirnicama koje kupujemo od naših dobavljača na tržnicama Kvatrić ili obliPizza kuće Tiramola Pizza Tiramola (with home made dough), Bistro Fotić
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žnjem Dolcu. Poslovnu ili romantičnu večeru poslužujemo i u drugom dijelu restorana, koji se stilski potpuno razlikuje od prvog dijela, jer nalikuje na stare engleske klubove. Prostor je dekoriran mnoštvom antikviteta, starih fotića, džuboksom i aktualnom izložbom, te pruža posebnu atmosferu koja oduševljava naše domaće i strane goste. Naše vrijedne tete, kako zovemo naše kuharice koje rade domaću tjesteninu, dolaze već u 6 ujutro, kako bi gosti za ručak imali pripremljen svježi kruh, štrudle i domaće kolače, koje radimo isključivo s maslacem i slatkim vrhnjem bez aditiva i zamjenskih namirnica. Ponosni smo što u gotovo četiri godine, koliko je Fotić otvoren, nikad nismo kupili kruh ili tjesteninu za naše goste. Bistro Fotić, 25 Gajeva Street The name of this bistro is not random - fotić is the abbreviation of photo-camera. Badrov is an old surname from Zagreb, which the citizens commonly associate with photography because Foto Badrov was founded in 1972. In those days, and until recently, their photo developing shops were strategically located all over Zagreb. As digital photography became more prominent, however, Željko Badrov, whose father Ivan founded the family business, realized that turning one of those shops into a restaurant was the perfect business move. - In the front of the restaurant, there is an old wooden camera from the 19th century, which was one of the smallest portable cameras at the time. That area, which is a former
photo studio, is decorated in a shabby-chic style. For lunch, we offer fresh daily meals; dinner consists of dishes from our menu, and recently, we have introduced a buffet style breakfast, as well as an a-la carte option. The food is based on seasonal ingredients that we buy from our people at Kvatrić market or the nearby Dolac. Business or romantic dinners are also served in the other part of the restaurant, the style of which is completely different than the first part, resembling old English clubs. This area is decorated with numerous antiquities, old cameras and a juxebox; it is also where we present art exhibitions. Its special atmosphere delights our local and international guests.Our hard working ladies, which is what we call our cooks, who prepare the home-made pasta, arrive at 6 in the morning so patrons can enjoy fresh bread, strudels and home-made cakes, made only with butter and sweet cream, without any additives or substitute ingredients. Proudly, in almost four years since Fotić opened its doors, we have never bought bread or pasta for our customers.
Mali Bar, 63 Vlaška Street Ana Ugarković is a renowned Croatian chef and owner of Mali Bar. - My partner and I wanted to open a bar in which customers could have a nice bite with their glass of wine, although we have become more of a bistro over time, and adapted to customers who desire something tasty, seasonal and fresh for lunch or dinner. Our menu changes daily, depending on the season and the best of what the Dolac market has to offer at the time. We serve simple dishes, inspired primarily by the best local ingredients and Mediterranean cuisine, but we also tend to experiment with Asian and Middle Eastern flavours. From the very beginning, our menu has consisted of finger food or bites that go well with drinks, such as our chicken and goose liver pate. We
also offer mini burgers, smoked tuna, bresaola with goat cheese and rocket, and marinated Buffalo wings… All of these have become classics and they are part of our permanent menu. I think our customers would even complain if we were to remove them from the menu, says Ana. Every day they prepare home-made pasta combined with seasonal ingredients, or a soup and salad with cheese or fish variants. Patrons also love their fresh vegetable tempura, a nice piece of grilled meat topped with garnish… - Each morning our culinary team has a short meeting in which we discuss ideas for a particular dish, but the final decision is always based on the best the market has to offer on that particular day, adds Ana. Mali bar, 01 5531 014 Predjelo, kravlji sir s vlascem i himalajska sol Entrée: Cow cheese with chives and Himalayan salt, Bistro Fotić
Bistro Fotić, 01 4810 476, bistrofotic.com
Mali bar, Vlaška 63 Ana Ugarković poznata je hrvatska kuharica i vlasnica Malog bara: - Moj partner i ja željeli smo otvoriti bar u kojemu se može nešto fino gricnuti uz čašu vina, iako smo se s vremenom više približili ideji bistroa i prilagodili gostima koji žele i za ručak ili večeru pojesti nešto ukusno, sezonsko i svježe. Naš se jelovnik mijenja svaki dan, s obzirom na sezonu i ono najbolje što tržnica Dolac u tom trenutku nudi. Kuhamo jednostavna jela, inspirirana u prvom redu vrhunskim lokalnim namirnicama i mediteranskom kuhinjom, ali nisu nam strani izleti u okuse Azije i Bliskog istoka. Od samog početka na jelovniku imamo jela koja su idealna za svojevrsnu mezu uz piće, kao što je naša pašteta od pilećih i gusjih jetrica. No, tu su i miniburgeri, dimljena tuna, bresaola s kozjim sirom i rikulom, zapečena i marinirana pileća krilca… sve su to postali naši klasici i stalno su u ponudi. Čak mi se čini da bi se naši gosti pobunili da ih maknemo s jelovnika - kaže Ana. Svaki dan rade domaću tjesteninu u kombinaciji sa sezonskim namirnicama, uz obaveznu juhu te salate u kombinaciji sa sirom ili ribom. Gosti obožavaju i njihovu tempuru od svježeg povrća, lijepi komad mesa na žaru s prilogom... - Svako jutro naš kuharski tim ima kratki sastanak na kojemu govorimo o idejama koje svatko ima za određeno jelo, ali finalnu riječ uvijek ima ponuda na tržnici i najbolje što se tog dana nudi - dodaje Ana. CROATIA AIRLINES
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no, sastavljena od kremaste juhe i glavnog jela. - Jelovnik se mijenja sezonski, trudimo se raditi s namirnicama koje su aktualne u to doba godine, tako da ima razlika između zimskoga i ljetnog jelovnika. Nishta restorani nude vegetarijanska jela, ona s opcijom bez glutena i jela s opcijama za vegane. - Interijer su osmislili vlasnici, a karakteristično je to da su jednaki onaj u Dubrovniku i Zagrebu. - Naš cilj, ističe Frano - nije ugostiti isključivo vegetarijance i vegane… nego svima jednostavno pokazati da hrana može biti jednako ukusna i zasitna, a da ne sadržava meso. Nishta, 11 Masarykova Street Zagreb’s renowned vegetarian restaurant has a simple menu, inspired by the travels of owners Ružica and Gildas Remy across India and Asia. - The idea to open a restaurant came about in 2007 in Dubrovnik, where Ružica and Gildas owned a smoothie bar at the time, says Frano Augustin, the restaurant manager. After noticing there was plenty of demand for vegetarian restaurants, they opened one, the first of its kind, in Dubrovnik. Seven years later, they decided to open another one, this time at an address in Zagreb. - Our dishes are, in fact, Mali Bar
Stol u Malom baru Restaurant interior at Mali Bar
Nishta, Masarykova 11 Poznati zagrebački vegetarijanski restoran ima jednostavan jelovnik, nadahnut putovanjima vlasnika Ružice i Gildasa Remyja po Indiji i Aziji. - Ideja oko otvaranja restorana pojavila se 2007. godine u Dubrovniku, gdje su u to vrijeme Ružica i Gildas imali Smoothie bar - rekao nam je Frano Augustin, poslovođa restorana. - Nakon što su zapazili da ima poprilično interesa za vegetarijanskim restoranom, otvorili su prvi takvog tipa u Dubrovniku. Sedam godina poslije poželjeli su otvoriti još jedan, a odluka je bila da adresa bude - zagrebačka. - Naša su jela zapravo slična drugima, no umjesto mesa rabimo vege namirnice - kaže Frano. Sva jela kreirao je vlasnik Gildas: obično je tu ponuda dana koja se mijenja svakodnev98
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Mali Bar
Nishta
Indijska vegetarijanska plata Indian vegetarian plate, Nishta
dishes can be just as tasty and filling without any meat. Nishta, 01 8897 444, nishtarestaurant.com
Nishta
very similar to others,’ but instead of meat, we use vegetarian ingredients, says Frano. All dishes were created by Gildas. Usually there is the offer of the day, which changes daily, consisting of a creamy soup and a main course. - The menu changes according to the season; we try to work with ingredients that are seasonal, so there are differences in the menu in the summer and wintertime. Nishta restaurants offer vegetarian dishes, with gluten-free options as well as alternatives for vegans. The interior was decorated by the owners, and both the Dubrovnik and Zagreb restaurants are the same. - Our goal, says Frano, is not only to serve vegetarians and vegans, but to show everyone that food
Restoran Agava, Tkalčićeva 39 Već 11 godina nasred jedne od zagrebačkih najprometnijih ulica, poznatog mjesta za izlaske u središtu grada, egzistira hit-restoran Agava: Tkalčićeva ulica, omiljeno mjesto svih generacija, pravi je obiteljski biznis. - Misao vodilja - kaže jedan od vlasnika, Belizar Miloš - od početka je ista, a to je ponuditi vrhunske lokalne namirnice spremljene na moderan, mediteranski način. - Belizar je s
kolegom i poslovnim partnerom Darkom Lugarićem otvorio Agavu u vrijeme kad Zagreb nije bio prepun restorana, a njihov moto where fine dining meets casual atmosphere i jelovnik očito su bili i ostali pun pogodak. - Jelovnik mijenjamo i osvježavamo periodički, do dva puta godišnje - nastavlja Belizar. - Nekako nam je najdraže eksperimentirati i kombinirati arome kontinenta s aromama mora. Kako je kolega nagrađivani sommelier, mnogo pažnje pridajemo sljubljivanju hrane i vina te tako gostu pružamo najpotpuniji doživljaj dolaska u restoran. Kod njih ćete okusiti izvrsna, zanimljiva jela poput carpaccia od sabljarke s kaparama i pestom od agruma, pačja jetra s kremom od kruške i krokantom od badema, kare od crne slavonske svinje s chutneyjem od đumbira i kruške te crnom beluga lećom. Tu je i popularan file tune sa sušenom paprikom koji se poslužuje sa sezamom i umakom od soje, te kus-kusom. Finale je uz odličan demi-freddo od kokosa s mojito coulisom ili uz čokoladni tart s bademom. Vlasnici se ponose i time što ih Trip Advisor već godinama uvrštava u Top 10 u Zagrebu. The Agava Restaurant, 39 Tkalčićeva Street In the middle of Tkalčićeva Street, one of
Dimljena sabljarka s pestom od agruma i kavijarom od aceta balsamica Smoked swordfish with citrus pesto and balsamic vinegar pearls, Agava CROATIA AIRLINES
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Terasa Agava restorana Terrace view at Agava
Zagreb’s busiest streets, a popular nightlife destination in the city centre, is the hit restaurant - Agava - popular among all generations; it has been a successful family business for 11 years already. One of the owners, Belizar Miloš, says: - From the beginning, the idea has been the same: offer top class food prepared in a modern Mediterranean way. With his colleague and business partner, Darko Lugarić, Belizar opened Agava at a time when Zagreb was not laden with restaurants; their motto (where fine dining meets a casual atmosphere), and menu have proved to be a winning combination. - We change and freshen up the menu periodically, up to twice a year, Belizar adds. - We prefer to experiment and combine continental aromas with Mediterranean aromas. Since my colleague is an award winning sommelier, we pay a lot of attention to food and wine, so our customers can have the full restaurant experience. The menu consists of excellent and interesting dishes, such as swordfish carpaccio with capers and citrus fruit pesto, duck liver with pear cream and almond croquante, black Slavonian pork chops with ginger and pear chutney and black beluga lentils. There is also a popular tuna filet with dried peppers, served with sesame and soy sauce and couscous. In the end, an excellent coconut demi-freddo with mojito coulis or a chocolate almond cake… 100
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Semi-freddo od kokosa s mojito coulisom, Agava Semi-freddo with coconut and a Mojito Coulis, Agava
The owners are proud of the fact that TripAdvisor has placed them among the top 10 restaurants in Zagreb for years now. Agava, 01 4829 826, restaurant-agava.hr
Mundoaka Street Food, Petrinjska 2 - Otvaranjem Mundoake htjeli smo stvoriti koncept koji je atraktivan kako za Hrvatsku, tako i na globalnoj razini - ističe Tom Novak, Njujorčanin i jedan od vlasnika Mundoake, uz Jimi Pierre Antoinea - tako da smo od početka standarde postavili veoma visoko. Kod nas je hrana pripremana s kvalitetnim namirnicama, stvorena s ljubavlju i sa slobodom u prezentaciji. Uz moto Food with Heart and Soul, Mundoaka je ubrzo postala hit-mjesto: gosti obožavaju konstantne novosti, uvođenje novih
Vremešni interijer restorana Agava Old-fashioned interior, Agava
jela. Osim toga, tu su nezaobilazni klasici, koji su stalno u ponudi. - Neki od favorita u Zagrebu jesu: glazirana rebra, pola pileta s grila, losos i tuna steak ili tuna Tataki, kao i neke od naših salata i naravno, pulled pork sendvič, a sada nam je favorit novo jelo nadahnuto Latinskom Amerikom, Arepa Bandito, poslužena s prženim platana bananama - istaknuo je Tom Novak. U Zagrebu se nalazi Mundoaka Street Food, a u Čakovcu i Umagu popularan je njihov bistro koncept. Uz razvoj street food i bistro koncepta, Mundoaka je na tržište plasirala i nekoliko originalnih proizvoda kojih do sada nije bilo u Hrvatskoj, a nekih ni u ovom dijelu Europe i svijeta. Dulce Leche originalni je karamel namaz Mundoaka branda, dostupan u svim dm prodavaonicama u Hrvatskoj, Dogo Argentine wines vina nude se u njihovim restoranima, a tu su, za ljubitelje piva, i Mundoaka Ale Craft beer - Golden, Dark i Amber. Mundoaka Street Food, 2 Petrinjska Street When we opened Mundoaka, we wanted to create an original food concept that was attractive on a global level, says Tom Novak, New Yorker and one of the owners of Mundoaka, along with Jimi Pierre Antoine. - From the very beginning we have set high standards.
Our food is prepared with the highest quality ingredients, made with total freedom and love. We live our motto says Tom Novak, Food with Heart and Soul, Mundoaka has become a Zagreb favorite. Customers love the constant new dishes on the menu and our main classics: Glazed ribs, Grilled boneless half chicken, Salmon, Tuna Steak and Tuna Tataki, Pulled Pork sandwich, Original Salads, Soups and our current big hit inspired by Latin America, The Arepa Bandito served with fried plantains. Zagreb is our Street Food concept and Čakovec and Umag are our popular Bistro concepts. With this success Mundoaka has placed several new products on the regional
market. Dulce Leche is the original caramel cream under the Mundoaka brand, and is available at all dm stores throughout Croatia. Also, Dogo Argentine Wines are distributed via Mundoaka, while beer lovers can opt for the Mundoaka Ale craft beer - Golden, Amber and Dark. Mundoaka, 01 7888 777
Submarine, Radnička 34 i Frankopanska 11 - Ideja za otvaranje Submarinea došla je usred svjetskih trendova rasta prodaje organske, kvalitetne, lokalne hrane. Ljudi su spremni potrošiti više, ali zauzvrat traže kvalitetu bez kompromisa - otkriva Dragoljub Bozović iz
Submarinea. - S obzirom na to da je taj trend brzorastući u maloprodaji, nama je pala na um ideja da kreiramo i takav koncept restorana: hrana bez aditiva, pretežno lokalna i organska. Kod nas su karakteristične svježe, organske namirnice iz lokalnog uzgoja. - Svaka namirnica ima svoju priču: sad je u ponudi specijalna edicija superfoods burgera sa svježim špinatom, organskim jajetom te sjemenkama organske konoplje. No, na jelovniku su i specijaliteti poput quinoa salate sa svježim avokadom ili tacosa s free range piletinom iz Zagorja. - Jelovnik smišljamo u suradnji s vrhunskim domaćim i stranim kuharima. Nudimo Celebrity Chef burger koji je kreirao poznati kuhar Denis Zembo. Specifičnost tog
Hrskavi Falafel Crispy Falafel, Mundoaka
Mundoaka
Arepa Bandito, Mundoaka
Pogled s ulice na restoran Mundoaka Street view of Mundoaka
burgera nije samo u namirnicama, nego i u dobrotvornom obilježju - 10 kuna od prodaje svakog tog burgera darujemo Udruzi Crveni nosovi. Prvi Submarine jelovnik kreirao je chef TJ Caparas, Amerikanac koji danas vodi kuhinju u Edition hotelu u Londonu. - Submarine osim u Zagrebu (Frankopanska 11 i Radnička 23), postoji i u Opatiji te u Beogradu, a uskoro i u Beču. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Interijer Submarine burger bara Interior of Submarine burger bar
Submarine, 34 Radnička Road and 11 Frankopanska Street A cosy burger bar attracts guests who enjoy organic ingredients and quality meat. - The idea behind opening the Submarine came from global trends in growing sales of quality organic, local food. People are willing to spend more, but in return, they want quality without compromise, says Dragoljub Bozović from the Submarine. - Since this is a fast growing trend in retail, we came up with the idea to create a similar restaurant concept: additive free food, mostly local and organic. We serve fresh, organic ingredients from local farms. Each ingredient has its story. The current offer includes a special edition of superfood burgers with fresh spinach, organic eggs and organic hemp seeds. The menu also includes specialties such as quinoa salad with fresh avocado, or tacos with free range chicken from Zagorje. - We create our menu in cooperation with the best Croatian as well as foreign chefs. We offer the Celebrity Chef Burger created by Chef Denis Zembo. This burger is not just special because of its ingredients, but also because of its charitable character; we donate 10 kunas from the sale of this burger to the Red Noses Association. The first Submarine menu was created by an American chef currently in charge of the 102
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Kombinacija tri mala burgera Sliders, pečeni krumpir s naribanim tartufima i San Servolo Istarsko pivo Sliders - three mini burgers, roasted potatoes with grated truffles and Istrian San Servolo beer. Submarine
kitchen at the Edition Hotel in London. Apart from locations in Zagreb (11 Frankopanska Street and 23 Radnička Street), Submarine also exists in Opatija and Belgrade, and one will soon be opening in Vienna. Submarine, Frankopanska 11, 01 4831 500, Radnička cesta 34, 01 6264 347
Il Camino, Nova Galerija Zagrebačka avenija 104 U samo nekoliko mjeseci, restoran smješten u zagrebačkoj Novoj Galeriji postao je mjesto ljubitelja mediteranske kuhinje. Svježinu i novost jelovniku dao je novi inovator-chef koji je u Il Camino stigao u kolovozu: nakon 25 godina provedenih na brodovima i restoranima diljem svijeta, Zlatko Čizmek unaprijedio je jelovnik novitetima.
hrani, specijalitetima i posebnim okusima i začinima. Tako je nastala njegova osobna kulinarska fuzija. - Popularni su nam, na primjer, zeleni rižoto s kozicama, osim klasičnoga crnoga, zatim carpaccio od tikvica s kaparima i lećom. Od deserta preferiram zanimljive tris kombinacije, tri manja deserta u jednom, kao na primjer crème brûlé u tri okusa. Našle su kod nas mjesto i dobre štrudle kao i palačinke i knedle s marmeladom. - Jela mijenjaju sezonski, ovisno o dostupnim namirnicama. Osim toga,
Interijer Il Camino Restaurant interior at Il Camino
- Važne su mi kreativnost i sloboda. Naime, u Il Caminu za mene je izazov upravo ta spremnost na novitete i nešto drugačije recepte. Koristim se uglavnom onima koje sam sam izmislio, manje onima očekivanima, tu govorim o mesnim, ali i vegetarijanskim jelima. Sve su to u načelu jednostavna jela, smatram da je minimalizam potreban, no uvijek su tu mogućnosti promjene koje će recept učiniti još zani-
Il Camino
mljivim. Preferiram recepte od 3 do 4 sastojka, tu se svaki okus dobro osjeti. K nama dolaze i obitelji koje uživaju u vikend-objedima, ali i poslovni ljudi u potrazi za zdravim doručkom ili pak inovativnim, reprezentativnim ručkom. Osim toga, uvijek možete pojesti croissant uz kavicu. - Zlatko je u svojoj bogatoj karijeri radio s Englezima, Amerikancima, Francuzima, Talijanima… i od svih njih učio je o lokalnoj
Il Camino
Il Camino
Il Camino
tu je stalna želja za promjenom, ljudi žele iskušavati razna jela, stoga je chefova kreativnost konstantno u pogonu. Prostor je također vrlo zanimljiv - potpisuje ga poznati dizajner interijera Nedjeljko Mikac Cak, koji je osmislio spoj industrijskog dizajna s tradicionalnim elementima od tamnog drva. Jedan od zidova krase posudice sa začinima, cjelokupni je prostor okružen staklenim stijenama koje gledaju na zelenilo okolnih ulica, a jedan dio otvara se na veliku terasu Nove Galerije. Pristup sa svih strana jedan je od aduta: i to je važno kod raznolike publike koja je Il Camino prepoznala kao svoju omiljenu gastronomsku oazu. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Il Camino, Nova Galerija, 104 Zagrebačka Avenue In just a few months, the restaurant located in Zagreb’s Nova Galerija has become a favourite place for fans of Mediterranean cuisine. The fresh menu was devised by a new innovator - a chef who came to Il Camino in August. After 25 years spent on ships and in restaurants across the world, Zlatko Čizmek improved the menu with novelties. - Creativity and freedom are very important to me. The challenge at Il Camino is the readiness to accept novelties and somewhat different recipes. I use mostly those I have come up with myself, and I prepare the expected ones less frequently. These include both meat and vegetarian dishes. All of them are, in essence, simple dishes as I believe minimalism is necessary. However, there is always the possibility of change, which makes the recipes even more interesting. I prefer recipes with three to four ingredients, because each flavour can be tasted properly. Our customers are families who come for weekend meals, but also business people looking for a healthy breakfast or an innovative lunch. If nothing else, one can always have a croissant and a coffee. In his career, Zlatko has worked with the English, Americans, French, and Italians… From all of them he has learned about local food, specialties, flavours and seasonings. That is how his personal culinary fusion came about. - Popular dishes are the green shrimp risotto, not just the typical black risotto, and zucchini carpaccio with capers and lentils. For dessert, I prefer interesting triple combinations, three smaller desserts in one, like Crème brûlée in three different
Čokoladna torta s tučenim šlagom i pekmezom od ribizla Chocolate fudge cake with whipped cream and blackcurrant marmalade, Apetit
Interijer Apetit restorana Restaurant interior at Apetit
flavours. I also prepare nice strudels, as well as pancakes and dumplings with marmalade. The restaurant changes dishes seasonally, depending on available ingredients. Apart from that, there is a constant desire for change; people want to try different types of food and that is why the chef has to be creative and unrestrained.
The interior of the restaurant is also very interesting; it was designed by famous Interior Designer Nedjeljko Mikac Cak, who merged industrial design with traditional dark wood elements. One of the walls is adorned with pots of various herbs, while the entire space is surrounded with glass walls facing the green surrounding streets; another part opens up towards the large terrace of Nova Galerija. All side access is one of the best aspects of the place, which is important among the diverse crowds who have made it known that Il Camino is their favourite gastro oasis. Il Camino, 01 6404 444
Apetit City Restaurant & Bar Masarykova 18 Već pet godina Apetit City, smješten u Masarykovoj 18 u središtu Zagreba, poznat je kao okupljalište poslovnjaka, ali i polazišna točka večernjih izlazaka. Njihov jelovnik temelji se na okusima srednjoeuropske kuhinje s mediteranskim štihom. Osim jelovnika, konstantno se nadograđuje i njihova vinska karta - važno je da su aduti s njihove liste najbolji na tržištu. Veoma je ovdje važno sljubljivanje hrane i pića jer ovaj restoran posjećuju i oni koji žele nešto popiti uz jelo ili pak pojesti uz čašicu. Često ćete kod njih naići na neko posebno vino koje će obilježiti određeno razdoblje ili pak poželjeti 104
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Apetit
obilježiti posebnu prigodu, praznik, blagdan… Svaki tjedan na web stranici objavljuju jelovnik, stoga se gosti mogu pripremiti na uživanje u jelima kao što su teletina i janjetina u janjećoj maramici s kremom od cvjetače i engleskog celera s pečenim šećercom, caneloni s jadranskom tunom i slanutkom plus salata s povrćem, čokoladna torta Apetit s vrhnjem od vanilije i borovnicama… Prostor je u znaku samozatajnih baršunastih, smeđih i tamnocrvenih tonova, dok mekana svjetlost stiže i s velikog staklenog plafona, koji je zapravo nadsvođena terasa. Apetit City Restaurant & Bar, 18 Masarykova Street For five years now, Apetit City, located at 18 Masarykova Street in the centre of Zagreb, has been a popular gathering spot for businessmen as well as the starting point of many nights out. The menu is based on flavours of Central European cuisine with a Mediterranean note. Apart from the menu, the wine card is also constantly improving and expanding - the most important thing is that the finest on their list is the best on the market. The assimilation of food and drink is very important here be-
Apetit
cause the restaurant is often visited by people who like a drink with their food or a bite with their drink. Here you will often find a special wine, marked by a particular time period, or something to celebrate a special occasion with… They publish their menu online every week, so people can prepare themselves for dishes such as veal and lamb in a lamb peritoneum, with cauliflower and English celery cream on baked corn, cannelloni with Adriatic tuna and chickpeas plus a vegetable salad, and the Apetit chocolate cake with vanilla and blueberry cream… The space features unobtrusive velvety, brown and red shades, while soft lighting is provided by a large glass ceiling, which is in fact a rooftop terrace.
dio te atmosfere - duboki šank, udobne stolce i čaše od jedne pinte. Željeli smo stvoriti i malu intimnu oazu u srcu grada, da ljudi osjete kako k nama mogu doći našminkani, ali i u papučama, s kravatom ili u havajkama… s razigranom djecom ili sami, tražeći mir. - Imamo pet burgera u ponudi, koji su načelno isti još od početka, ali na čijem smo usavršavanju dugo radili. Sve što je završilo u našim burgerima, prije toga smo kušali na našemu kućnome meniju. Osim mesa, bitan je dio našeg jelovnika prilično zanimljiva pivska lista, koju smo među prvima u Hrvatskoj bazirali gotovo isključivo na craft ponudi američkih, a poslije i hrvatskih pivara. Za specijalne obljetnice, kao npr. za prvi rođendan, osmisle poseban burger. Ključna namirnica na jelovniku Burgeraja jest meso koje nabavljaju u maloj lokalnoj zagorskoj mesnici. Riječ je o stopostotnoj junetini, odnosno različitim dijelovima koje sami pripremaju, obrađuju i melju. Smjesu tvore samo različiti dijelovi mesa, ne rabimo nikakve vezivne tvari niti začine, jer bitno nam je da se osjeti okus mesa. Peciva za nas radi jedna zagrebačka pekarnica. - Interijer su uredili sami u retro stilu. - Naši detalji rađeni su ručno ili su vintage. Šank, stolove i veliku drvenu klupu, reprodukciju kluApetit
Apetit City, 01 4811 077, apetit.hr
Burgeraj, Preradovićeva 13 - Ideja otvaranja Burgeraja došla je dijelom iz ljubavi prema kulinarstvu, a dijelom sasvim slučajno, zbog turističkog putovanja u New York - kažu nam vlasnici Burgeraja, mladi par iz Zagreba. - Iako u to vrijeme burgeri još nisu bili trend, ondje smo shvatili kako ova scena ima potencijala. Stoga smo Zagrebu donijeli
Srednjoeuropske arome s dodirom Mediterana u srcu grada Kombinacija domaće i međunarodne kuhinje oduševit će i najzahtjevnije gurmane. Pridajemo veliku pozornost biranju svježih i visokokvalitetnih namirnica za pripremu vrhunskih jela. Svaki tjedan za vas mijenjamo meni i s ljubavlju ga spravljamo.
RestauRant&baR apetit city Masarykova 16/1 (Obrtnički prolaz 7), Zagreb t. +385 1 4811 077, e. info@apetit.hr W. www.apetit.hr, Facebook: apetit.restaurants
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Burgeraj
pe iz njujorške podzemne željeznice, izradili su naši školski prijatelji. Barski kožni stolci original su Chromcraft iz 1970-ih, a brodom smo ih dopremili iz SAD-a u Hrvatsku. Jelovnik-ploču i vanjski natpis izradio nam je umjetnik Modul8 iliti Miroslav Petković, a ostatak zidova ispunili smo vintage-razglednicama iz New Yorka, originalnim posterima kultnih manje poznatih filmova ili crtežima japanskog umjetnika i aktivista Yoshitoma Nare. Svakom detalju u Burgeraju posvećuje se mnogo pažnje, od hrane preko izbora pića do interijera, koji proizlaze iz osobnih interesa prema umjetnosti i dizajnu. Priča je personalizirana i nije vođena trenutnim trendovima na tržištu. Burgeraj, 13 Preradovićeva Street - The idea to open Burgeraj came partly from the love of cooking, and partly by pure chance, on a tourist trip to New York, say the owners of Burgeraj, a young couple from Zagreb. Although burgers were not yet a trend at the time, that’s when we realized just how much potential this scene had. We thought it would be great to introduce part of that atmosphere to a Zagreb clientele - a wide bar, comfortable chairs and pint-size glasses. We wanted to create a small and intimate oasis in the heart of the city, where people could come either all dressed up in a tie, or in their slippers and shorts. Whether they are with playful children or alone, this is where they will find peace. - We offer five burgers, which are the same as when we started, but we have been perfecting 106
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them for a long time. Everything that ended up in our burgers was previously tested at home. Apart from meat, an important aspect of our menu is a very interesting beer list. We are the first establishment in Croatia to base our offer almost exclusively on American craft beer, and recently, Croatian craft beer. For special anniversaries, like a first birthday for example, they create a special burger. The key ingredient on Burgeraj’s menu is meat, which they acquire from a small butcher shop in Zagorje. It is 100% veal, different cuts, which they prepare and mince themselves. - The mix contains only various portions of meat; we don’t use any binding agents or spices because we think the meat flavour is very important. The buns are made for us by a bakery in Zagreb. They decorated the interior in retro style by themselves. - Our details
are either hand-made or genuine vintage items. The bar, tables and a large wooden bench, a replica of a New York subway bench, were made by our school friends. The leather bar stools are original Chromcraft items from the 1970’s, which we had shipped to Croatia from the USA. The menu board and outside sign were made by artist Modul8, a.k.a. Miroslav Petković, while the rest of the walls are filled with postcards from New York, original posters of less known cult classic films and drawings by Japanese Artist and Activist Yoshitomo Nara. At Burgeraj, attention is paid to every detail from the food, the selection of drinks, to the interior, which reflects their personal interest in art and design. Their story is personalized rather than led by the current market trends. Burgeraj, 01 4876 791
Burgeraj
bluesun hotel kaj, Marija Bistrica
Hidden oasis of beauty in the heartland of Croatia... High-end quality accommodation and culinary experience: • boutique hotel concept (luxury rooms, wellness & spa, conference facilities...) • Gourmet (wine cellar, organic food grown in the hotel’s garden) • shortlisted for the Luxury Travel Guide Global Awards 2016 Marija Bistrica - famous pilgrimage site dedicated to Virgin Mary • Croatian Chateau Experience: Ethno Homesteads & Old Craft Workshops • Attractions (historic castles from the Habsburg era, Neanderthal museum and excavation site, wine roads, meadow biking)
tel.+385 49 326 600 kaj@bluesunhotels.com www.hotelkaj.hr www.facebook.com/HotelKaj
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Stari jasenovi okosnica su identiteta Rokovog perivoja Old ashCROATIA trees create the identity of Rokov Perivoj 108 AIRLINES
ZAGREB
Piπe/By Dubravka Belas
Fotografije/Photos Zoran Filipović
Sklad Rokovoga perivoja utemeljen je na optimalnom omjeru otvorenih travnatih površina, cvatućih grmova, slobodno postavljenih stabala, neukroćenih voluminoznih krošnji, sve međusobno povezano stazama, sve zaokruženo i obrubljeno njegovanim vrtovima privatnih vila kao kulisama u kakvom kazalištu. Možemo li u tom odmjerenom, skladnom, diskretnom perivoju, tom smirenom i otmjenom komadiću grada danas vidjeti obećanje, tražiti uzor za neki budući mogući dom? Je li nam dom, kao svim pravim lutalicama, samo ondje kamo još nismo stigli, tek mala oznaka na karti ili mjesto kojemu ćemo, jednom, možda, moći sami dati to značenje? The harmony of Rokov Perivoj is based on an optimal ratio of open grasslands, blooming bushes, and freegrowing trees with unrestrained voluminous tops, all of which are interconnected with pathways and surrounded by well-kept gardens of nearby villas, resembling scenery on a theatre stage. Can we, nowadays, see the potential for a possible future home in this balanced, harmonious, discrete park, in a calm and fancy part of the city? Like for all true wanderers, is not home only a place we have not yet reached, a small mark on a map, a place we have not yet given significance to?
Z
ašto neka mjesta iz djetinjstva ostaju duboko u vašim srcima, posebna, sa sjajem koji ne blijedi? Pa vam se čini da je dio vas, čak i ako ste obletjeli cijelu zemaljsku kuglu, ukorijenjen ovdje poput drveća, osuđen da zauvijek ostane na istome mjestu. I danas, kad prolazim strmom Rokovom ulicom, od staroga i nevelikog trga, skrojenoga baš po čovjekovoj mjeri, koji osnovom svoga nepravilnog trapeza dodiruje Ilicu, prepozna-
jem stabla svog djetinjstva. Neka su još u punome sjaju, druga su pognuta i označena za rušenje. Neka nedostaju, poput onoga na račvanju dviju staza rokovskog platoa odakle smo, iako ušutkivani majčinim šaptom, izvikivali iz punih grla: jeka, jeka… a zatim bi nam se taj isti glas vraćao od kapele sv. Roka, nešto tiše i muklije, svejednako dječje: jeka… jeka… Rokovske su staze tih zima katkad bile zatrpane snijegom; ostajali bi tek uski prolazi
za sanjke zaobljenih rogova, a zagrebački bi rikšari svoj kraljevski utopljen podmladak strpljivo vukli do drvenoga josipovačkog paviljona i natrag, dok bi im suhi, plosnati kolačići od snijega otpadali s potplata. Desetljećima poslije, čak i ako ostanete bez svih drugih domova, znat ćete da ni ta mjesta, ma koliko ih čuvali u srcu, više nisu vaš dom. Kuća u kojoj ste nekad živjeli, najstarija u ulici, urušava se, vrt u kojemu ste đurđice CROATIA AIRLINES
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Misa u kapeli sv. Roka služi se na Dan sv. Roka, 16. kolovoza Mass at St. Roch’s Chapel, held on August 16 th
zalijevali staklenom bocom za mlijeko, kakvih više nema, sada je prorastao zimzelenom i petoprstom lozicom, onom koja se s jeseni onako divno, kiselo zarumeni. Stabla najslađih malih šljiva koje ste ikada kušali progutao je bršljan, a orah od čije bi vam zelene kore mladih, još mliječnih plodova uvijek pocrnjeli prsti, odavno je srušen. Životu, svjetlu, koje se nekad izlijevalo kroz starinske, polukružne prozore, više nema ni traga. Tek se sjećate da se u neki određeni sat i to svjetlo gasilo, sve dok ne prođe fakinaža, kako su rokovske bake nazivale loše odgojene dečke. Oni bi se ovuda vraćali nakon kasnih projekcija u tuškanačkom kinu, pa bi nerijetko koji od njih, potaknut viškom adrenalina, bio sklon baciti kamen u svaku upaljenu žarulju: jednako su tako stradavale ulične svjetiljke, one obične u Rokovoj i one lijepe, Ulrichove, na Aleksanderovim stubama. Iz prve Auerove vile, u Rokovoj 9, ne dopiru više ljestvice profesorice solfeggia koje su nekad odjekivale ovom rascvjetanom ulicom rijetkih prolaznika. Preko puta, na broju 8, nema više maloga crnog španijela koji se veseli prolaznicima. Na broju 11 stari gospodin više ne njeguje ružičnjak s obje strane širokih, zavojitih stuba, kojima se spuštalo do otmjene kuće u dnu brijega. Miris tih ruža penjao bi se preko visoke ograde i prelijevao Rokovom, sve do kuće na broju 10, danas zarasle u trnje i kupine, oronule poput začaranog dvorca. U njoj 110
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više ne stanuju djeca koja misle da su grmovi kleke posađeni samo zato da budu tajnovitim skloništima zečića i dobrih patuljaka. Iz atelijera u prizemlju više ne dopire zvižduk žustrog, zgodnog kipara s kirbijevskim naočalama. On više ne kleše, ne lijepi gipsom slamu za portret jednoga zaboravljenog predsjednika, ne reže okrugle pločice limova koji će zatim hvatati svjetlost, ne vari, ne odbacuje olako dječje crteže koji mu stižu zračnom poštom s prvoga kata. Široka kamena ograda stuba koje se penju do kapele sv. Roka više nije ulaštena mnogim dječjim turevima koji su se njome spuštali većim žarom nego toboganom usred parka. Ne čuje se više tihi cvilež nepodmazanih ljuljački, škripa šarenoga drvenog vrtuljka ni ravnomjerno, ritmično udaranje klackalice. Sada kad svi nose svoje plastične bočice sa sobom, nema više ni crpke za vodu odakle biste iz prejakoga plosnatog mlaza rukom pokušavali utažiti žeđ ili oprati od pješčanih kolača umrljane ruke. Ipak, tu su još oni isti bijeli gorski jasenovi s korijenjem široko izdignutim iz zemlje. Monumentalno je prvi epitet koji vam pada na pamet kad opisujete ta dominantna stabla, prave kolose. O njima, još 1955. godine, u vrijeme kad se još znalo poštovati zatečeno i dalje graditi na njemu, piše autor današnjeg izgleda parka arhitekt Zvonimir Fröhlich: Rijetko krasni soliterni primjerci jasena razvili su ovdje nesmetano svoju bujnu krošnju. Ne zna se
jesu li ljepši u proljeće kad dobivaju mladi list ili ljeti kad pružaju ugodnu hladovinu. U jesen i zimu, kad list otpadne, bujni splet njihovih grana razvija se kao čipkasti zastor prema plavome nebu. Ili, kao što o njima piše u stručnoj podlozi za proglašenje ovog parka zaštićenim dijelom prirode: … svojim habitusom skulpturalnih karakteristika čine temeljnu odrednicu identiteta perivoja. Sklad perivoja utemeljen je na optimalnom omjeru otvorenih travnatih površina, cvatućih grmova, slobodno postavljenih stabala neukroćenih voluminoznih krošnji, sve međusobno povezano stazama, sve zaokruženo i obrubljeno njegovanim vrtovima privatnih vila, kao kulisama u kakvom kazalištu. Zagreb se od Medvednice na sjeveru prema rijeci na jugu spušta nekolikim obroncima i pripadajućim visoravnima - dva najpoznatija, Kaptol i Gradec, dva su brežuljka, dva stara rivala, crkveni i svjetovni. Stalne čarke između brda koje moli i brda koje radi i nisu samo legenda i urbani mit, ali nisu ni jedina zagrebačka značajka. Sasvim na jugu Gradecu susjednog brežuljka Josipovca, spuštajući se strmo sve do iličke udoline, nalazila se, od srednjeg vijeka pa sve do 18. stoljeća, gradečka Gmajna, zajednički gradski pašnjak, s vinogradima, voćnjacima i povrtnjacima uokolo. Prema potoku Vilici koji je tu izvirao, nazivali su je Viličkom gmajnom. Tu su stanovnici gradečkih kuća utisnutih u gradske zidine, s malo prostora za vrtove, napasali stoku i uzgajali voće i povrće za vlastite potrebe, poneki i za prodaju. Jer su se na njoj mogli zaraditi i novci (penezi, na kajkavskome), Gradečani su taj kraj zvali i Peneznom Goricom, a poslije, zbog potoka Kraljevca koji je proticao udolinom njegove zapadne granice, i Kralečivim bregom. Vjerojatno su na gmajni imali i svoje štalice i kleti, ali tek je potkraj 16. stoljeća prvi put neka građevina spomenuta u pisanom dokumentu o kupoprodaji - bijaše to drvena klijet gradečkog zlatara Petra Krupića, oca lijepe Dore, Šenoina zlatarevog zlata. Podno tih plodnih brežuljaka, u Iličkome dolu, nastajala su prva naselja kmetova, a poslije i obrtnika i trgovaca. Ali sredinom 17. stoljeća dogodila se Zagrebu, kao i tolikim gradovima Europe i Azije, crna smrt - kuga, jedna od najgorih pošasti koja je stoljećima putovala svijetom i svako toliko pustošila i kosila i građane i seljake, i plemstvo i kmetstvo.. To je doba u kojemu se za nešto više od sljedeća dva stoljeća mijenja namjena Penezne gorice: ona se iz pašnjaka i vinograda pretvara u groblje. Najprije su se tu pokapali najsiromašniji Donjograđani, a s vremenom, popunjavanjem starijih gradskih pokapališta, poput onih uz crkve sv. Katarine i sv. Margarete, svoje počivalište, pokazat
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Svakog 16. dana u mjesecu, mladi iz Župe sv. Blaža, organiziraju razgled kapele i perivoja On the 16 th of every month, the youth of St. Blaise Parish organise a sightseeing tour of the chapel and park
će se ne i vječno, našli su obrtnici, imućniji građani, sve do uglednika poput skladatelja Vatroslava Lisinskog, muzealca i kolekcionara umjetnina Mijata Sabljara, baruna Dragojla Kušlana, arhitekta Bartola Felbingera. Groblje uz kapelicu sv. Roka, tijekom 19. stoljeća, više se puta proširivalo i napokon doprlo sve do početka današnje Ulice Ivana Gorana Kovačića. Groblje nije ostalo samo katoličko; već u početku 19. stoljeća na sjeverozapadnome rubu platoa počeli su se pokapati i Zagrepčani židovske vjeroispovijesti. Od mnogih zagrebačkih naselja samo se Gradec na vrijeme zaštitio od kuge - strašne bolesti koja bi oboljele uzimala u razmaku od nekoliko sati do nekoliko dana. Ograničio je na nekoliko mjeseci ulaz u grad isključivo kroz jedna, Kamenita vrata - na kojima su po cijeli dan stražarili gradski senatori sprječavajući ulazak već oboljelima. Političar i povjesničar Rudolf Horvat zapisao je da su Gradečani danomice slušali jauk oboljelih izvan bedema, gdje je kuga nemilosrdno morila staro i mlado, muško i žensko. Što iz straha, što iz zahvalnosti, stanovnici Gradeca odlučiše što prije sagraditi, upravo na Peneznoj Gorici, zavjetnu kapelu u čast svetog Roka, zaštitnika od kuge. Takve su se kapele i crkvice obično gradile 112
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pred ulazom u gradove, u nadi da će i njihove stanovnike poštedjeti od strašnog pomora. Predaja kaže da je sv. Rok znao prepoznati i zaustaviti različita utjelovljenja kuge - crnog psa, smrt s kosom, ženu u bijelom. Rok je, kao gospodsko dijete, rođen u Montpellieru, na rubu Languedoca, na hodočasničkoj ruti između Španjolske i Italije. Rano ostaje bez roditelja, a s punoljetstvom se odriče svega materijalnog imutka i kreće na hodočašće u Rim. Pred Rimom saznaje da gradom vlada kuga i bez razmišljanja se posvećuje njegovanju oboljelih. Lik sv. Roka uvijek se prikazuje s dužom kosom i bradom, kakve nose putnici onoga doba. To je muškarac u punoj snazi svojih tridesetak godina, u putničkom haljetku, s kratkom hodočasničkom pelerinom prebačenom preko ramena, pa je takav kratki plašt po njemu i dobio ime sanrocchino. Haljetak drži podignutim na jednom bedru pokazujući kužnu ranu. U srednjovjekovnim zapisima spominje se, doduše, rana na preponama, ali zbog čednosti, umjetnici je prikazuju na svečevom koljenu. Obično mu s plašta visi Jakobova kapica, školjka kojom je grabio vodu s izvora u šumi kad je on, u Piacenzi, na povratku kući obolio, pa se onamo povukao ne želeći ikoga zaraziti. Uz njega je naslikan i
psić koji u zubima nosi komad kruha. Prema legendi, riječ je o lovačkom psiću s obližnjeg imanja, koji je svakoga dana krao kruh s gospodareva stola da ga odnese bolesnom Roku i lizanjem mu vida rane. Jednoga dana gospodar je slijedio psića, pronašao Roka i pomogao mu da ozdravi. Upravo je zbog te priče francuski izraz za malog psa ostao (le) roquet. Za dvije nerazdvojne osobe, Francuzi će i danas reći da su kao Rok i njegov pas, a za nepočešljanog čovjeka reći da ima frizuru sv. Roka. Ozdravivši, Rok nastavlja put prema svome rodnome gradu, ali uhitiše ga u Vogheri kao špijuna, onako zapuštenoga i zarasloga, i zatočiše. U tamnici će sv. Rok i umrijeti i biti prepoznat tek nakon smrti po malom crvenom biljegu u obliku križa, s kojim je i rođen. Navodno je u trenutku njegove smrti anđeo Providnosti, koji ga je uvijek pratio, pa mu se pripisuje i nastanak onog izvora u lombardijskoj šumi, obasjao ćeliju nadnaravnom, blještavom svjetlošću. Srednjovjekovni se autori ne slažu uvijek u tamnici kojega grada je Rok preminuo - uz one koji tvrde da se to dogodilo u Montpellieru, gdje ga nije prepoznao ostatak njegove obitelji, povijesni izvori ipak spominju Vogheru. Naime, u Vogheri se čuvalo najviše njegovih relikvija, sve dok ih nije
preotela Venecija, gdje su danas pohranjeni u crkvi sv. Roka. Ovom je zaštitniku oboljelih od kuge i zaštitniku pasa, nadležnost poslije proširena na sve druge životinje, zatim na lažno optužene, na neženje, ljekarnike i grobare, ali i na zaštitu od katastrofa poput potresa, epidemija i teških bolesti - tumora, kao i suvremene kuge - side. U modernome je svijetu postao simbol ljudske solidarnosti i kršćanskog milosrđa. Tako tomu, najzazivanijem svecu, barem u srednjem vijeku u kojemu je kuga odnijela 75 milijuna života, prije 361 godinu podignu kapelicu Gradečani (prilično veliku kapelicu, usput budi rečeno, zacijelo bi i neke crkve voljele biti tako velike...) Bila je to prava dobrovoljna radna akcija. Zapisano je da su u radovima sudjelovali svi stanovnici Gornjega grada, i staro i mlado, i muško i žensko, i obrtnici i plemići, pa i gradski načelnik. Dovozio se pijesak, nosio kamen iz Vrapča i Gračana, miješao se mort, tesalo krovne grede i zidalo. Svome su omiljenom i tako potrebnome svecu Gornjograđani vlastitim rukama sagradili i opremili svetište oltarom, korom, propovjedaonicom i klupama. Na portalu kapelice uklesana je godina 1655., a osam godina poslije izliveno je i zvono i smješteno u ljupki drveni tornjić kapele, cijeli prekriven drvenim pločicama. Ova jednostavna, jednobrodna crkvica nepoznatog arhitekta opremljena je i dobro sačuvanim orguljama koje je 1833. izradio zagrebački graditelj orgulja Pavle Pumppa. Na južnome pročelju freska je sunčane ure, s okvirom na kojemu se razabiru kerubini i manji dio otkrivenog natpisa na latinskome koji kazuje: Ne zna moj život za grob dok je Rok(a)... Oltar sv. Roka smješten je u svetištu na zidanoj menzi. Podijeljen je u tri zone - u središnjem se dijelu nalazi oslikana niša s kipom sv. Roka i njegova psa, sa svim uobičajenim ostalim atribucijama i oslikanim pejzažom u pozadini. Za kip se pretpostavlja da ne pripada izvornoj opremi oltara, jer nešto je niži od niše i grube je izrade; za razliku od rezbarenih uspravnih voluta, čija je i poleđina potpuno izrađena pa se pretpostavlja da se oltar mogao razgledati i sa stražnje strane i da je samo središnjim dijelom bio prislonjen uza zid ili stup. Na atici iznad niše skulptura je Boga na oblaku ponad Zemljine kugle, a pod nogama mu sa svake strane kleči anđeo. Sasvim su na vrhu dva putta koji pridržavaju kartušu nad Božjom glavom. Istraživanja i restauratorski radovi na oltaru nagorjelom u požaru 1976. trajali su tri godine i otkrili natpis na donjem dijelu, koji ga izvorno smješta u - župnu crkvu sv. Marka na Gornjem gradu. Zapisano je da je njegovu izradu i postavljanje naručio ceh krojača. Pretpostavlja se da je taj oltar, zajedno s drugih 12 oltara, uklonjen za sveobuhvatne Schmidt-Bolléove obnove u
drugoj polovici 19. stoljeća. U skladu s duhom novoga doba, biskup Strossmayer smatrao je raskošne barokne oltare i drugi kićeni crkveni inventar crkve sv. Marka nečim što je više odvlačilo pažnju vjernika nego ih usmjeravalo prema pobožnosti i duhovnosti. Nažalost, samo je dio tog baroknog inventara pohranjen u Muzeju grada Zagreba ili postavljen u drugim crkvama, a velik je dio uništen ili raznesen. Groblje, koje je nastalo uz kapelu, poslije se proširilo po cijelom platou, sve do Aleksanderovih stuba na istoku. Službeno je zatvoreno za nove ukope godinu dana nakon što je 1873. gradska vlast za novo groblje otkupila imanje Ljudevita Gaja na Mirogoju. Ipak je još desetljećima Rokovo groblje stajalo zapušteno, služeći, osim za ispašu, i kao tajno sastajalište srednjoškolskim fakinima s Katarinskog trga - oni su tu povlačili svoje prve dimove i tukli se s polaznicima tada jedine druge srednje škole. Ipak, urbanizacijom okolnih predjela Britanskog trga, Tuškanca i Josipovca pokazalo se da je potrebno urediti ovaj prostor, pa je, trideset godina od zatvaranja groblja, ono prekopano. Nakon što su napušteni planovi preuređenja u rasadnik šumarske akademije i gradnje meteorološkog opservatorija, ta je atraktivna lokacija s nekoliko vila privlačila sve više zanimanja. Ugledni zagrebački zubar dr. Eugen Rado osniva 1909. godine građevinski konzorcij za gradnju vila na južnom dijelu Rokovog i angažira arhitekta Viktora Kovačića za preuređenje tog područja u villenviertel, rezidencijalnu četvrt vila i ljetnikovaca s uređenim
Skulptura Frulaša Pana Frana Kršinića (iz Memorijalne zbirke Joze Kljakovića) Fran Kršinić’s Pan Playing Flute Sculpture (from the Memorial Collection of Jozo Kljaković)
perivojem. Kovačić predviđa i četiri vidikovca za građanstvo s pogledom na sve četiri strane svijeta te planira stube prema Tuškancu i Ilici. Južni bi vidikovac gledao na Ilicu i Donji grad prema Savi, drugi, sa zapadne strane kapele prema tome dijelu grada i dalje prema Plješivici s Okićem, sjeverozapadni, zamišljen kao javna terasa između dviju vila, prema Pantovčaku i Sljemenu, a na jugoistoku pogled s manjeg, skrovitijeg vidikovca, otprilike ondje gdje se nalazi gornje odmorište Alexanderovih stuba, pucao na Grič i dalje na Kaptol i Šalatu, ali i
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južnije, prema Frankopanskoj. Daljnju razradu perivoja Kovačić prepušta arhitektu Hugi Ehrlichu, a on sam se, u istome prostoru, posvećuje projektu gradnje vile Roberta Frangeša Mihanovića. Naime, gradska uprava ustupila je kiparu dio zemljišta na Rokovomu perivoju u zamjenu za fontanu koju će umjetnik o svome trošku postaviti u uređenom perivoju. Frangeš izrađuje nekoliko skica, od kojih će odbor za uređenje prihvatiti Elegiju - Uskrsnuće, brončanu figuru nage djevojke u naravnoj veličini, izvijene ponad kružnoga zdenca s reljefom ljudske povorke u prizorima Danteova Raja, Čistilišta i Pakla, alegorijskog ljudskog putovanja kroz život i smrt. Melankolična više nego patetična, erotična više nego što bi smjela biti iz pijeteta primjerenog lokalitetu nekadašnjega groblja, a pogotovo Uskrsnuća, nesretna Elegija ili Čeznuće najprije će dugo boraviti u Akademijinoj Gliptoteci, a tek osamdeset i dvije godine poslije, biti postavljena u zapadnome dijelu parka. Ovaj je recept s trampom zemljišta za umjetničke radove gradska uprava ponovila i s drugim umjetnicima, ustupivši im parcele za gradnju vila, a oni su se oduživali darivanjem svojih umjetničkih djela. Nastala je tako prava kolonija umjetnika, slikara, kipara, književnika - Parnas hrvatske moderne, kako ga nazove povjesničar umjetnosti Krešimir Galović, pravo malo umjetničko bratstvo. Slobode
nam se hoće, hoćemo da živimo u sadašnjosti, da prisluškujemo duh vremena i da sami gradimo, zapisao je Dežman u svome manifestu moderne. To nije škola ni stil u umjetnosti, to je borba individua za slobodu, smatrao je. A u cijelome Zagrebu nije bilo ljepše ni prikladnije scene za tu umjetničku slobodu. Iskoristilo je tu povoljnost nekoliko naraštaja umjetničke obitelji Auer, Frangeš sa svojom suprugom, prevoditeljicom Ženkom, Ljubo Babić, Jozo Kljaković, Nasta Rojc, sa svojim formalnim suprugom Brankom Šenoom i stvarnom životnom partnericom, britanskom časnicom Alexandrinom Marijom Onslow. Nanizale su se njihove vile po rubu perivoja poput sjajnih, vječno poželjnih bisera ponajbolje zagrebačke arhitekture. Nakon svih tih trsova zaboravljenih oporih sorti, ubogih kmetica i njihovih plebanuša i grobnih humaka nad kojima su se pjevala pogrebna opijela i tugaljivi kadeši, Rokov brijeg su zaposjeli umjetnici, zapisat će Galović, podsjećajući na Goetheove riječi koje je i Robert Frangeš često ponavljao: Tu gdje je nekad bio stan smrti, danas je mjesto živih kojim se ubrzano kreću ljudi i bezbrižno se igraju djeca, a gdje je danas život, bit će opet smrt. Možda slučajno, ova je tradicija umjetničke kolonije nastavljena i u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća - produživši se i na Rokovu ulicu u kojoj su već postojale dvije vile obitelji Auer: na broju
Elegija-Čeznuće Roberta Frangeša Mihanovića The Elegy - work of Robert Frangeš Mihanović
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10 svoj atelijer imao je kipar Vojin Bakić, a u vili do Alexanderovih stuba u perivoju, stvarala je slikarica Mila Štrok. U vili Joze Kljakovića, uz memorijalnu zbirku Kljaković na Rokovom perivoju 4, danas djeluje Centar za likovni odgoj Grada Zagreba. Vodeći brigu o slikarevoj ostavštini, Centar u ovom profinjenom prostoru, koji je projektirao Stjepan Planić, održava tečajeve crtanja, slikanja, kiparstva i keramike, vodi ljetne radionice i priređuje koncerte klasične glazbe. Nezaobilazni su i hvalevrijedni napori mlade ekipe iz Župe sv. Blaža, koja čini sve da oživi i ponovno približi građanstvu kapelu sv. Roka s perivojem. Svake se godine, na blagdan sv. Roka, 16. kolovoza, u kapeli služi misa, a perivojem razlijeva zvuk zvona iz malenog zvonika, koje tako skladno poziva još od 1663. godine. Uokolo kapele na taj se dan održava veselo, šareno pučko proštenje sa svim rekvizitima, od medovine do svijeća i licitara. Ovi mladi svakog 16. dana u mjesecu organiziraju razgled kapele i cijelog perivoja, otkrivajući publici mnoge tajne Rokovog, pokazujući im dnevne i noćne vizure grada, kazujući povijest perivoja, odajući položaje stuba koje se do grada spuštaju kroz ilička dvorišta i veže, priređujući koncerte na orguljama, tumačeći arhitekturu perivoja i vila koje ga obrubljuju. Tako se na Rokovom perivoju 2 nalazi Vila Frangeš, registrirana kao kulturno dobro, s ambijentalnom zbirkom akademskog kipara Roberta Frangeša Mihanovića. Djelo je arhitekta Viktora Kovačića, kao i vila Auer na broju 1, i primjer osobito kvalitetne i rafinirane ljetnikovačke gradnje. Uz nenametljiv, prigušeno raskošan eksterijer, s pergolama obraslim ružama penjačicama i glicinijama, zanimljivo je i njezino unutarnje uređenje, kojemu osobitost dodatno pojačava namještaj, drvene zidne obloge te fragmenti klupa i ormara iz zagrebačke katedrale. Naime, prije radova na vili odvijala se gotizacija prvostolnice i demontirali dotadašnji, stoljećima taloženi interijerni elementi, pa je njihovo ugrađivanje u vilu bio ujedno i oblik njihova spašavanja. Povjesničarka umjetnosti Nina Gazivoda u svojoj knjizi posvećenoj genezi gradnje i prepoznavanju značenja Vile Frangeš piše: Danas je ulazak u artistički i apartan Frangešov stan ulazak u drugu prostornu i vremensku dimenziju, dimenziju zaustavljenog vremena izvan vremena, u utihnuo prostor koji odiše nepovratnošću. Mi koji ulazimo uljezi smo, i ništa više, u ambijentu kojem ne pripadamo. U ovome je tihome, mirnom, profinjenom i romantičnom, gotovo arkadijskom rokovskom ambijentu, na nekoliko koraka od najužeg središta Zagreba, sačuvana uspomena na vrijeme mudre razvojne faze ovoga grada,
Polaznici Centra za likovni odgoj u čarobnom ambijentu vile Kljaković (arh. Stjepan Planić) Attendants from the Centre of Fine Arts in the wondrous ambience of the Kljaković Villa (architect Stjepan Planić)
pažljive i promišljene urbanizacije jednoga zapuštenog prostora. Možemo li danas u tom odmjerenom, skladnom, diskretnom perivoju, tom smirenom i otmjenom komadiću grada vidjeti obećanje, tražiti uzor za neki budući mogući dom, neki budući mogući perivoj, da ne ostanemo samo uljezi u pametno osmišljenim prostorima? Je li nam dom, kao svim pravim lutalicama, samo ondje kamo još nismo stigli, tek mala oznaka na karti ili mjesto kojem ćemo, jednom, možda, moći sami dati to značenje.
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hy do some childhood places remain so deeply inscribed on your heart, so special, living in a brilliance that does not fade? As if a part of you is rooted in them like trees, destined to stay in one place forever, even if you have flown across the world? Even today, when I walk along the steep Rokova Street, starting from the old small square, perfectly tailored to suit humans, the base of its irregular trapezium touching Ilica, I recognise the trees of my childhood. Some are still in full bloom, while others, wilting, have been marked for felling. Some are conspicuously missing like the one where the two paths cross at the plateau. Against our mother’s whispered admonishments, we would shout
at the top of our lungs: echo, echo, and then our own voices would return to us from St. Roch’s Chapel, still childlike, but somewhat fainter and more muffled: echo, echo…In wintertime, the paths of Rokov Perivoj were covered with snow. There were only narrow passages for wood-horned sleds, along which Zagreb’s rickshaw masters patiently pulled the sleds all the way to the wooden pavilion at Josipovac and back. Dry, flat snow cakes fell off the soles of their shoes while their brood enjoyed the rides snugly wrapped in warm blankets. Decades later, having lost all of your other homes, you will become painfully aware that however much you have cherished those places in your heart they, too, are no longer your home. The house you used to live in, the oldest in the street, is falling apart; the garden in which you watered lilies of the valley from old-fashioned glass milk bottles, is now overgrown with evergreen periwinkle and Virginia creeper, which assumes all the wonderful acid red colours in autumn. The trees that generously offered the smallest and sweetest plums you had ever tasted have been devoured by ivy, and the walnut tree was cut down a long time ago. All that remains is the memory of your fingers turning black when you peeled the green skin off young, milky fruit. There is
no trace of life, of the light which once poured through old semi-circular windows. You remember that the light went off at a certain hour when the riffraff passed through - that is how the grannies, who lived in Rokov Perivoj, used to call badly-behaved boys who returned their way from late night screenings at the nearby Tuškanac Cinema. Fuelled by a surplus of adrenalin, they were tempted to throw stones at every light bulb which was on. The unsightly lamps in Rokova Street were not discriminated against: they received the same treatment as the beautifully-designed Ulrich’s lamps along Alexander’s Staircase. A solfeggio teacher played musical scales in the first Auer’s villa at Rokova 9, and they could be heard by the few who passed through this leafy street. The little black spaniel dog no longer lives across the road at no. 8 where he used to wag his tail at the passers-by. The elderly gentleman at number 11 no longer tends the rose garden on both sides of the wide winding staircase which led to an elegant house at the bottom of the hill. The scent of those roses would rise over the high fence and spill down Rokova Street, all the way to the house at number 10. Dilapidated and covered by thorny overgrowth and blackberry bushes, it looks like an enchanted castle. It is no longer inhabited by children who thought the juniper bushes were planted with CROATIA AIRLINES
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Memorijalna zbirka Joze Kljakovića The Memorial Collection of Jozo Kljaković
the sole purpose of serving as secret hiding place for little rabbits and good elves. The whistling of a dapper and handsome sculptor sporting Kirby-style spectacles no longer comes from the atelier on the ground floor. He no longer carves stone; he does not glue reed to plaster for the portrait of a long forgotten president; he does not cut round tin plates which would go on to capture light; he does not weld, nor does he wantonly discard children’s drawings which reach him by airmail from the first floor. The generous stone fence of the stairway, which leads to St. Roch’s Chapel, is no longer polished by many a child’s bottom sliding down with more zest than they would on any toboggan mounted in the middle of a park. You can no longer hear the squeaky sound of rusted swings, the creaking of a colorful wooden merry-go-round or the rhythmical beats of a seesaw. Now, everybody carries their own plastic water bottles with them, so there is no need for a street pump from which you would try to capture a strong flat stream of water in the palm of your hand to quench your thirst or to wash traces of sand cookies from your hands. However, the same white ash trees are still there, with roots protruding high above ground. Monumental is the first adjective that comes to mind when 116
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you begin to describe these majestic trees, true giants. Back in 1955, people still knew how to show respect for what was there and they knew how to continue building on what they found. Architect Zvonimir Fröhlich writes: The uncommonly fascinating solitary ash trees have been unhindered in their growth and they have developed thick tops. One would be hard pressed to decide whether they are more beautiful in springtime, when new leaves start to appear or in summertime, when they offer pleasant shade. In autumn and winter, having shed their leaves, the thick entwinement of their branches emerges like a lacy curtain shielding the blue sky. One can read about these trees in the park conservation proposal drafted as part of a project to declare this park a protected natural site: …their sculptural habitus constitutes a fundamental determinant of the park’s identity. The park’s harmony stems from an optimum ratio of open grass-covered spaces, floral bushes, free standing trees and their untamed voluminous tops, all interconnected with paths, all rounded off and skirted by the manicured gardens of private villas, every one of them resembling a theatre stage backdrop. From Mount Medvednica in the north to the river in the south, Zagreb runs down along several slopes and plateaus between them - the two most well-known hilltop plateaus are Kaptol and Gradec - two old rivals, the former representing the church, the latter the common people. Constant skirmishes between the hill that prays and the hill that labours are not just the stuff of legend or an urban myth, but they are also not the only characteristics of Zagreb. From the Middle Ages to the 18th century, the southernmost part of the Josipovac Hilltop, running all the way down to the Ilica Valley, was used by the neighboring Gradec as the town’s common gmajna with vineyards, grazing land, orchards and vegetable gardens. It was known as Vilica Gmajna, after the Vilica Brook, which had its source there. Gradec itself offered very little gardening space so its inhabitants, who lived in closely-situated houses surrounded by city walls, took their cattle to graze there and they grew fruit and vegetables for themselves and even sold some. As money could be made from working the land, the townsfolk of Gradec called this area Penezna Gorica (penezi is the word for money in the Kaikavian dialect) and later on Kralečiv Hill because of the Kraljevec Brook which flowed along the western border of the valley. They probably had their little cow sheds and wine cellars on the hilltop, but the first record concerning the sale of a building in that area dates back
to the end of the 16th century. The building in question was a wooden cellar, property of Gradec Goldsmith, Petar Krupić, the father of beautiful Dora, Šenoa’s goldsmith’s gold. The first settlements of serfs, and subsequently of craftsmen and merchants, started to emerge at the foot of the fertile hills, in the Ilica Valley. In the mid-17th century, however, Zagreb became one of the many European and Asian towns and cities which were struck by the Black Death - the Plague, one of the worst pestilences which travelled the world for centuries and every so often plagued and struck down citizens and peasants, as well as the nobility and serfhood alike. This resulted in Penezne Gorice changing its purpose for the next two centuries: the former grazing lands and vineyards became a cemetery. The first people to be buried there were the poorest inhabitants of the Lower Town. In time, as the older burial grounds, such as the ones next to the churches of St. Catherine and St. Margaret became too small and crowded, craftsmen, affluent citizens and even dignitaries including Composer Vatroslav Lisinski, Museologist and Art Collector Mijat Sabljar, Baron Dragojlo Kušlan and Architect Bartol Felbinger, found their resting place there, albeit not eternal as one would expect. The cemetery next to the church of St. Roch was extended several times in the course of the 19th century until it finally spread and reached the beginning of what is today’s Ivana Gorana Kovačića Street. The cemetery did not stay exclusively catholic; already at the beginning of the 19th century, the first residents of Jewish faith were buried in the northwestern side of the plateau. Of the many Zagreb neighbourhoods, only Gradec took timely measures to protect itself from the Plague - a terrible disease which claimed its victims in a matter of hours or a few days at best. Gradec closed all of its gates to visitors; for a few months only one remained opened. The Stone Gate was closely guarded by the town’s senators who prevented the sick from entering. Politician and historian Rudolf Horvat noted that day in day out, citizens of Gradec listened to the screams of the sick on the other side of the city walls where the Plague mercilessly tormented the young and the old, men and women alike. Out of fear or out of gratitude, citizens of Gradec decided to waste no time; they built a chapel at Penezne Gorice and devoted it to St. Roch, protector against the Plague. Such chapels and little churches were usually built at town entrances in the hope that they would spare their citizens from the terrible plight. Legend has it that St. Roch was able to recognise and stop the Plague’s various embodiments -the black
dog, the death with a scythe, the woman in white. Born to a noble family in Montpellier, on the brim of Languedoc, on the pilgrim’s route from Spain to Italy, St. Roch lost his parents very early on. When he became of age, he renounced all his wealth and set out for Rome as a mendicant pilgrim. Just before reaching Rome, he learned of an epidemic that was ravaging the city. Without any hesitation, he devoted himself to tending to the sick. St. Roch is always portrayed sporting long hair and a beard, typical of contemporary travellers. He is shown as a very fit thirty-something-year-old, in a traveller’s robe and a short pilgrim’s cape thrown over his shoulders. A short cape of that style now bears his name - sanrocchino. He holds his robe lifted on one side of his body to reveal a circular wound on one knee. Some medieval records mention a wound on his loin, but for reasons of modesty, artists moved it to the saint’s knee. Usually, there is a scallop hanging from his cape. He allegedly used the shell to scoop water from a forest source when, homebound from Rome, he himself contracted the Plague in Piacenza and withdrew to the forest to spare others from contracting the disease. His companion is a little dog carrying a slice of bread in its mouth. Legend has it that the dog was a hunting dog from a nearby estate that stole bread from his master’s table every day and took it to the sick Roch and then licked his wounds to make them better. One day, the master followed the dog, found Roch and helped him heal. The word for little dog in French is (le) roquet; the French still describe two inseparable people as Roch and his dog, and a man with unkempt hair is said to sport St. Roch’s hairdo. Having recovered, Roch continued his journey to his native town, but when he reached Voghera, he was mistaken for a spy and imprisoned due to his unkempt appearance. St. Roch died in prison and he was identified only after his death by a small red cross-like birth mark. Allegedly, at the moment of his death, the Angel of Divine Providence, who was always by his side, and who allegedly made the spring arise in the Lombardic Forest, bathed his cell in supernatural light. Medieval authors are not always in agreement as to the exact location of the cell where St.Roch died; there are those who claim that it was in Montpelier, where no family members were able to recognise him, but historical sources mention Voghera. The fact is that most of his relics were kept in Voghera, until Venice claimed them as their own, for St. Roch’s Church where they are kept to this day. The patron saint of plague victims and dogs has had his competence extended to all other animals, as well as to the falsely accused, bachelors, apothecaries and grave diggers; he is invoked in other disasters such as earthquakes, epidemics and grave diseases - tumours and the modern-day plague AIDS. In the modern-day world, he has become the symbol of human solidarity and Christian charity. Thus, the saint whose name was certainly invoked the most in the Middle Ages when the Plague claimed 75 million lives, got its chapel 361 years ago thanks to the citizens of Gradec (arguably a chapel whose proportions would put some more important churches to shame). The construction of the chapel was the first volunteer project. Records show that all the citizens of the Upper Town participated: young and old, men and women, craftsmen, the nobility, even the mayor himself. Sand was hauled in, stones were brought from Vrapče and Gračani, mortar was mixed, roof beams were carved and the chapel
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grew. The Upper Town citizens equipped the chapel with an altar for their favourite and indeed very necessary saint, as well as a choir, a pulpit and benches. Number 1655 was carved in the chapel’s portal to commemorate the year of its construction; eight years later, a bell was cast and mounted in the chapel’s charming wooden belfry, covered with wooden tiles. The unassuming single-nave church designed by an unknown architect also boasts an organ which has been well-preserved to this day since 1833, when it was built by Zagreb-based Organ Builder Pavle Pumppa. The southern façade features a fresco depicting a sundial, with a frame depicting cherubs and a small part of an inscription that reads: My life knows no grave as long as there is Roch‌. The altar devoted to St. Roch is mounted on an altar stone. It is divided into three different areas: the first one features a painted niche depicting a sculpture of St. Roch and his dog with all the other attributes and a landscape in the background. The sculpture itself is probably not part of the original altar because it is smaller than the niche and coarsely made unlike the carved vertical volute with a fullyornamented back. It was assumed that the al118
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tar could be seen from the back and that only its middle section would be leaning against a wall or a column. The ciborium surmounting the niche depicts a sculpture of God in the sky above the globe, with two angels kneeling at his feet. At the very top, there are two putti holding a cartouche above God’s head. The research and restoration works on the altar which had been charred by the 1976 fire lasted three years and revealed an inscription at its lower part which proves that it originated from the Church of St. Mark in the Upper Town. Records show that it was the tailors’ guild that had commissioned its construction and fitting. It is assumed that this altar, together with 12 others, was removed from the church during the extensive Schmidt-BollÊ’s reconstruction in the second half of the 19th century. In keeping with the spirit of the new age, Bishop Strossmayer thought that the sumptuous Baroque altars and the other ornate inventory in the Church of St. Mark diverted the church goers’ attention instead of channelling it towards piety and spiritualism. Unfortunately, only some of the Baroque inventory was stored in the Museum of the City of Zagreb or used in other churches, while
most of it was either destroyed or taken away. The original cemetery, which was first opened next to the chapel and later spilled over the entire plateau and extended all the way to Alexander’s Staircase, was officially closed for new burials a year after 1873 when city authorities purchased Ljudevit Gaj’s Estate in Mirogoj and earmarked it as the new cemetery. Still, Roko’s Cemetery continued to exist for decades after that, albeit neglected, and served as a grazing ground or a secret meeting place for secondary school rascals from Catherine’s Square who puffed on their first cigarettes there or got into brawls with students from the only other rival secondary school. Gradual gentrification of the neighbouring areas, the British Square, Tuťkanac and Josipovac meant that something had to be done with Roko’s Cemetery, so it was excavated thirty years after it was officially closed. After the original plans to turn it into a plant nursery for the Forestry Academy and a meteorological observatory site were scrapped, the attractive location with several villas started attracting more interest. In 1909, prominent Dentist Eugen Rado incepted a consortium of developers whose objective
was to build villas in the southern part of Rokovo. They commissioned architect Viktor Kovačić to transform this area into a villenviertel, a residential neighbourhood of villas and summer houses surrounded by a landscaped park. Kovačić envisaged four gazebos to provide citizens with a view of all the four sides of the world. He also planned a staircase leading towards Tuškanac and Ilica. A view from the southern gazebo was to go all the way to the Sava across Ilica and the Lower Town. The second one, on the west side of the chapel, was to face the western part of the city, Plješivica and Okić; the northwestern gazebo was planned as a public terrace between two villas facing Pantovčak and Sljeme while in the southeast a somewhat smaller and more inconspicuous gazebo, at the upper landing of Alexander’s Staircase was planned to command vistas of Grič, Kaptol and Šalata, and further south towards Frankopanska Street. Kovačić entrusted architect Hugo Ehrlich to elaborate on his initial designs, while he himself dedicated his own time to the building of Robert Frangeš Mihanović’s villa. Namely, city authorities gave the sculptor a building plot in Rokov Perivoj in exchange for a water foun-
tain which he was going to build in the future park at his own expense. Frangeš made several sketches among which the Development Board selected The Elegy - Resurrection, a bronze figure of a life size nude girl bent over a circular well depicting a relief of a human procession in the scenes of Dante’s Heaven, Purgatory and Hell, an allegory of man’s journey through life and death. Melancholic rather than pathetic, more erotic than it should have been to show due reverence and piety given it was the locality of a former cemetery, and especially the Resurrection, the unfortunate Elegy or Longing spent a lot of time sitting in the Glyptotheque of the Croatian Art Academy and only 82 years later was it finally erected in the western part of the park. City authorities repeated this recipe for success; they gave a few more building plots to several other artists to build villas and repaid the favour by donating their works of art to the city. In this way, a veritable colony was born consisting of artists, painters, sculptors, writers - the Parnassus of the Croatian Moderna, as Art Historian Krešimir Galović, named it, a small artistic fraternity. We crave freedom; we want to live in the present, to listen to the spirit of
the time, and to build things ourselves. This is what Dežman wrote in his Moderna Manifesto. This is neither a school nor a style in art; this is an individual’s struggle for freedom. There was no more appropriate or more beautiful place in all of Zagreb where such artistic freedom could exist. Several generations of the Auer family of artists benefited from the opportunity, as well as Frangeš and his wife, Translator Ženka, Ljubo Babić, Jozo Kljaković, Nasta Rojc, with her de iure husband, Branko Šenoa, and her true life partner, British Officer Alexandrina Marija Onslow. Their villas sprung up along the brink of the park like some splendid, eternally desirable pearls of the best architecture of Zagreb. After all those vines of forgotten astringent sorts, after the poor serf women and their parish priests, after the tumuli over which people sang dirges and mournful kadeshi, Rokov Perivoj was occupied by artists. This is what Galović noted, paraphrasing Goethe’s words which Robert Frangeš often quoted: Here, at the place where death used to reside, there is a place of the living where people move in a haste, where carefree children play; where there is life today, there will again be death. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Possibly quite accidentally, the art colony tradition continued throughout the second half of the 20th century and spilled over to Rokova Street where there were already two Auer family villas: Sculptor Vojin Bakić had his atelier at number 10, while Painter Mila Štrok created her works in the villa next to Alexander’s Staircase in the park. The former Jozo Kljaković’s villa at Rokov Perivoj 4 houses the painter’s memorial collection as does the centre for art education sponsored by the City of Zagreb. Taking care of the painter’s legacy, the centre uses this refined space, which was designed by Stjepan Planić to hold drawing, painting, sculpting and ceramics courses; it organises summer workshops and concerts of classical music. One has to commend the team effort of a group of young people from the Parish of St Blaise who are doing their utmost to revive and restore St Roch’s Chapel and the surrounding park for public use. Every year, on August 16th, which is St. Roch’s Day, a mass is given in the chapel, and the park is filled with the sound of a small bell which has harmoniously tolled and summoned people to prayer since 1663. On this particular day, a colourful fair is held around the chapel, featuring all the paraphernalia, ranging from mead to candles and licitar hearts. Young parishioners organize visits to the chapel and the entire park on the 16th of each month. During the visits, they reveal many of the park’s secrets to the partakers, showing them day and night vistas of the city; they talk about the history of the park, they point to the location of the staircase which descends to the city through courtyards and driveways on Ilica, they organize organ concerts and explain the architecture of the park and the villas which skirt it. Rokov Perivoj 2 is the address of Villa Frangeš, a zero grade listed property, housing the collection of Sculptor Robert Frangeš Mihanović. The villa was designed by architect Viktor Kovačić, like the Auer family villa at no. 1. It is an example of remarkably high quality and refined country house architecture. Besides an unassumingly luxurious exterior, featuring pergolas covered with climbing roses and wisteria, the villa boasts a very interesting furnished interior featuring wooden wall panelling and fragments of benches and cupboards from the Zagreb Cathedral. Namely, the construction of the villa followed the efforts to make the cathedral more Gothic-like, a process during which the centuries-old elements of the cathedral’s interior were dismantled. Reclaiming them for the villa was also a way to save them. Art Historian Nina Gazivoda dedicated a book to the history of its construction and to the significance of Villa Frangeš. In her book, she states: Today, entering Frangeš’s artistic and quite special apartment is like entering an entirely different spatial and temporal dimension, a dimension halted in a time beyond time, a quiet space which exudes irreversibility. We who enter are merely intruders in the space, a space where we do not belong. This quiet, calm, refined and romantic, almost arcadian ambient of Rokov Perivoj, just a few steps away from the very centre of Zagreb, is a reminder of a wise phase in the development of this city, of the careful and well thought out urbanisation of a neglected area. Would it be possible, nowadays, to look at this unassuming, harmonious, discrete park, at this serene and elegant part of the city and see a promise in it, a model for a possible future home, for a possible future park, so that we do not remain merely intruders in a cleverly-designed space? Or are we just wanderers whose home is in a place we have not reached yet, a small mark on a map, a place to discover and make our own? 120
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ocated on the island of Lošinj - which was proclaimed a health resort due to its beneficial climate - is Čikat Bay, Lošinj›s
first cove with premium, 5* offer and services. Discover Hotel Bellevue, a unique place of luxury. Here, every detail has been carefully selected so that you feel special and sophisticated at every moment. Make sure to take advantage of the island’s climate and improve your health! Our hotel and its unique Spa Clinic, which was declared the best wellness and spa service in the world, are the perfect choice for a pleasant escape from everyday life and a revitalizing wellness experience. Villa Hortensia is a place where traditional Austro-Hungarian architecture and a refreshing, modern style meet. The villa is surrounded by a magnificent garden and has an outdoor swimming pool with heated sea water, a sunbathing area and a private beach. Ten luxurious ensuite bedrooms are available for you to relax and enjoy your vacation, along with flawless service. Boutique Hotel Alhambra, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, completes Čikat Bay’s premium offer. The hotel is an AustroHungarian villa dating back to 1912, designed by renowned Viennese architect Alfred Keller, inspired by Spanish architecture. Alhambra forms a unique location that combines the spirit of aristocratic times and exceptional luxury with top-notch, personalized service. You can enjoy your stay in the luxuriously furnished 36 deluxe rooms and 15 suites. Check out our special offers and book your dream vacation! www.losinj-hotels.com T: +385 (0)51 66 11 01 CROATIA AIRLINES
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Piπe/By Kristina Bonjeković Stojković Fotografije/Photos Vanja Šolin
Retrospektivna izložba Borisa Bućana - Doručak u štampariji Boris Bućan Retrospective - Breakfast at Printer's', MSU 2016.
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Umjetnost Art
Njegov rukopis odavno je postao prepoznatljiv i priznat i izvan granica naše zemlje, a njegovi radovi nalaze se u najvažnijim muzejima i galerijama diljem svijeta. Boris Bućan, slikar i grafički dizajner, stekao je ugled na domaćoj i međunarodnoj umjetničkoj sceni zbog beskompromisne inventivnosti, originalnosti i trajnosti u vremenu. Njegovi su plakati dio vizualne memorije mnogih naraštaja. His handwriting has long ago become widely-recognized, even beyond the borders of our land; his work can be seen at the most important museums and galleries throughout the world. Boris Bućan, painter and graphic designer, has gained domestic and international acclaim due to his uncompromising inventiveness, originality and persistence over time. His posters are part of the visual memory of numerous generations.
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Boris Bućan u svom ateljeu Boris Bućan at his studio, 2016.
Studenti u proučavanju Bućanovih radova Students exploring the work of Bućan, MSU 2016. CROATIA AIRLINES
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Zagrebački Simfoničari i zbor RTZ- Ciklus glazbeni doživljaji Zagreb Symphony Orchestra and RTV Zagreb Choir - Musical Experiences, 1986
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uzej suvremene umjetnosti priredio je do sada najopsežniju izložbu plakata jednoga od najutjecajnijih hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika, Borisa Bućana, koja je predstavila presjek njegova opusa u kojemu se jasno iščitava razvoj autentičnog pristupa plakatu raznovrsnošću postupaka i načinom vizualizacije ideje. Jedan od vodećih svjetskih kritičara dizajna Rick Poynor svoj prvi susret s plakatima Borisa Bućana opisuje kao jedan od onih trenutaka otkrivenja koji rezultiraju prevrednovanjem predodžbe o području koje se sve do tada činilo dobro proučenim: - Bio sam prilično iznenađen kad sam vidio Bućanove rane plakate na izložbi u Galeriji Studentskog centra u Zagrebu 2002., tada nisam uopće bio upoznat s njegovim ranim radovima. Njihov minimalizam, konceptualizam i raznolikost pristupa iznenadili su me jer - niti u Europi niti u Americi u to doba - djela takvog tipa nisu se često, ako uopće, mogla naći. Kreativno nesputan, pronalazio je i odgajao naručitelje koji ga nisu ograničavali, ni cenzurirali. Najčešće, bili su to naručitelji kulturnih ustanova koji su u Bućanu prepoznali partnera koji je s lakoćom prekoračivao granice oglasnog medija. Njegova je važnost u proširenju percepcije plakata i unošenju inovacija u područje grafičkog oblikovanja, ali i poruke koju prenose u kontekstu određenog prostora i vremena. Grafičko oblikovanje plakata često odašilje jednoznačnu poruku publici, ali on ustraje na ambivalentnosti, pa i višeznačnosti. Nasuprot minimalističkom izričaju s početka sedamdesetih, potkraj tog desetljeća naslućuje se radikalan preokret u pristupu, značenju i načinu oblikovanja ideje, vidljiv u sve raskošnijoj uporabi boje i oblika koji postaju dominantni nositelji likovnog izraza. U potrazi za novim individualnim umjetničkim izrazom koji nastoji prekoračiti zadane granice grafičkog oblikovanja, Bućan svjesno dovodi u pitanje granicu čiste umjetnosti i dizajna. Naime, u plakate sve intenzivnije i osebujnije uvodi slikarske
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Mlada žena u proučavanju rada Young lady in exploration of Bućan's work, MSU 2016.
i crtačke postupke stvarajući novi tip slike. Plakate nastale u osamdesetima karakterizira živost, energičnost, dinamika, intenzivni koloristički tretman, jaki crno-bijeli / zlatno-crni grafizam ili pak geste snažnog crtačkog naboja. Usto, postupno uvodi sve veće formate plakata, a napokon njegov je standard postao 200 x 200 cm, do tada neviđen na našim prostorima. S tim plakatima-slikama izlazi na ulicu koja postaje njegova galerija, privlačeći pozornost najšire publike. Od devedesetih Bućan se sve više posvećuje mediju slikarstva i crteža i sve se više udaljuje od plakata, navodeći kao jedan od razloga nestanak dovoljno odvažnih i vizualno osvi128
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ještenih naručitelja. K tome, u devedesetima važnost plakata nestaje jer (r)evolucija oglašivačke industrije izmijenila je komunikacijske modele oglašavanja te su njegovi plakati postali dio prošlosti, koja je i danas aktualna zahvaljujući muzejima. Koristeći se referencijama iz svakodnevnog života masovne kulture, kao i referencijama iz mnogih povijesnih umjetničkih stilova, Boris Bućan pronašao je u mediju plakata jedinstven način preispitivanja odnosa i granica između umjetničke autonomnosti i društvenog konteksta, likovnih i dizajnerskih pravila, pokazujući dolazećim naraštajima umjetnika kako te granice valja neprestano pomicati.
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he Museum of Contemporary Art has opened the most extensive exhibition of posters by Boris Bućan, one of the most influential Croatian artists; the exhibition presents an overview of his opus, with clear development of an authentic approach to the art of the poster through a diversity of methods and ways of visualising an idea. One of the leading global design critics, Rick Poynor, describes his first experience with Boris Bućan’s posters as one of those moments of revelation that leads to a re-evaluation of an image of a subject that
has thus far seemed well studied: I was quite surprised when I saw Bućan’s early posters at an exhibition at the Student Centre gallery in Zagreb in 2002. I was not at all familiar with his early work back then. Their minimalism, conceptualism and diversity of approach surprised me because works like these were not often seen in Europe and America at the time. Creatively unrestrained, he found and educated clients who didn’t impose boundaries on him or censor him. Most commonly, his clients were cultural institutions, which recognized Bućan as a partner who easily
pushed the boundaries of advertising media. He expanded the perception of a poster and introduced innovation in the field of graphic design, as well as the message they have in the context of a particular time and space. Poster graphic design usually sends an unambiguous message to the viewer, but he insists on ambivalence and ambiguity. Contrary to his minimalist approach from the early seventies, towards the end of the decade, he took a radical turn in approach, meaning and way of shaping an idea, evident in more generous applications of colour and shape, which has
Posjetiteljica izložbe snima rad The lady in adorement of Bućan's work, MSU 2016.
become the dominant aspects of his artistic expression. He’s in search of a new individual artistic expression, which strives to cross the set boundaries of graphic shaping. Bućan consciously questions the boundary between pure art and design. He has intensified his painting and drawing process in his posters, thus creating a new type of painting. Posters created in the 1980’s were characterized by liveliness, energy, and an intense colour treatment: intense black-white / goldblack graphism and strong drawing strokes. Apart from that, he gradually introduced larger poster formats, and in the end, his standard was 200x200 cm, which was previously unseen on the domestic market. He took to the street with his poster-paintings, turning the 130
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Nebeska udobnost dostojna svakog hotela. Ili onog koji želi usrećiti svoga gosta.
www.hespo.hr
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Multimedijalni film o radu Borisa Bućana Doručak u štampariji Breakfast at Printer’s multimedia film of Boris Bućan’s work, 2016.
street into his gallery and attracting the widest possible audience. Since the 1990’s, Bućan has increasingly dedicated himself to painting and drawing, distancing himself from posters, stating the lack of bold and visually-conscious clients as one of the reasons for his departure. Apart from that, the importance of the poster diminished in the nineties because the (r)evolution of the advertising industry changed its communication models; as a result, his posters have 132
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become part of history, and are still available nowadays thanks largely to museums. Using references from everyday life and mass culture, as well as references from numerous historic art styles, Boris Bućan found a unique way to question the relationship and boundaries between artistic autonomy and social context, as well as artistic and designer rules in the poster medium, showing the upcoming generations of artists that boundaries should always be pushed.
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RUJAN/SEPTEMBER
Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings 13.9. - 16.10., Zagreb IZLOŽBA HRVATSKOG DIZAJNA 1516 / CROATIAN DESIGN EXHIBITION 1516 Ova izložba u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt kapitalni je projekt Hrvatskoga dizajnerskog društva. Obuhvaća sva područja dizajnerskog stvaralaštva te već niz godina izaziva veliko zanimanje javnosti. Kritički je prikaz produkcije u disciplinama poput vizualnih komunikacija i produkt-dizajna, dizajna novih medija, modnoga i odjevnog dizajna, prostorne signalizacije, dizajna postava izložbi, koncepata i studentskih radova. / This exhibition in the Museum of Arts and Crafts is a capital project of the Croatian Designers’ Association. It encompasses all areas of design and for a number of years has been attracting exceptional interest from the wider public. The exhibition provides a critical overview of design production within the areas of visual communication and product design, new media design, fashion design, spatial design and signage, exhibition design, concept design and student work. www.dizajn.hr Željko Borčić
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Sandro Dujmenović, Marko Hrastovac: Louvre Serif i Louvre Sans Oblikovanje ekskluzivne tipografije muzeja Louvre na Izložbi hrvatskog dizajna 1516 Exclusive typography design for the Louvre Museum, Croatian Design Exhibition 1516
pture. / After excellent exhibitions of work by Miró and Rodin, held as part of the Greatest Sculptors of the 20th Century cycle, the Art Pavilion is showing an exhibition Portraits of the Present by virtuoso Sculptor Alberto Giacometti. Visitors have a unique opportunity to view Giacometti’s work borrowed from the French Maeght Fondation, including some twenty drawings and just as many lithographs and sculptures. www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr
20.9.2016 - 8.1.2017., Zagreb IZLOŽBA ALBERTA GIACOMETTIJA / AN EXHIBITION: ALBERTO GIACOMETTI U sklopu ciklusa Najveći kipari 20. stoljeća, nakon sjajnih izložbi Miróa i Rodina, Umjetnički paviljon predstavlja izložbu Portreti sadašnjosti, velikoga virtuoza kiparstva Alberta Giacomettija. Jedinstvena je to prigoda da se razgledaju Giacomettijeva djela posuđena iz francuske Fundacije Maeght - dvadesetak crteža, isto toliko litografija te skul-
22.9. - 20.10., Zagreb IZLOŽBA MUNIRA VEJZOVIĆA / AN EXHIBITION: MUNIR VEJZOVIĆ Posjetite monografsku izložbu Slikarstvo bliže životu slikara Munira Vejzovića u Modernoj galeriji, u povodu pedesete obljetnice umjetnikova stvaralaštva. Izložba predstavlja osamdesetak ponajboljih slika i skulptura nastalih u posljednjih deset godina. / Visit the monographic exhibition Painting Closer to Life by Painter Munir Vejzović, showing at the Modern Gallery in commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the artist’s opus. The exhibition features around eighty of his best paintings and sculptures created over the last ten years. www.moderna-galerija.hr * Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara * This schedule is valid until August 15th. Allow for changes after this date.
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29.9.-2.10., Zagreb 12. INTERNACIONALNI FESTIVAL EKSPERIMENTALNOG FILMA I VIDEA / THE 12th INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF EXPERIMENTAL FILM AND VIDEO Na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju avangardnoga i eksperimentalnog filma možete pogledati mnoge zanimljive filmove što će vam ih predstaviti autori. / The festival, which follows the latest production of avant-garde and experimental film, features screenings of many interesting films presented by the filmmakers themselves. www.25fps.hr
Varaždin i okolica / Varaždin and surroundings 23.9.- 4.10., Varaždin 46. VARAŽDINSKE BAROKNE VEČERI / THE 46th VARAŽDIN BAROQUE EVENINGS Ovaj specijalizirani festival rane glazbe jedan je od najeminentnijih festivala te vrste u svijetu. Ove će mu godine zemlja-partner biti
Španjolska. / This specialized festival of early music is one of the most eminent festivals of its kind in the world. This year’s country partner is Spain. www.vbv.hr
MTB Parenzana Cube
Pula i okolica / Pula and surroundings 10.9.- 6.11., Buzet DANI TARTUFA U ISTRI / TRUFFLE DAYS IN ISTRIA Istarski bijeli tartuf, afrodizijak neponovljiva okusa, jedan je od najcjenjenijih na svijetu. Zri u jesen, a najbolje je kušati tu rijetku prirodnu blagodat u izvornom okružju. U većini istarskih ugostiteljskih objekata očekuju vas raznovrsne delicije od tartufa. / The Istrian white truffle, an aphrodisiac of unique flavor, is one of the most sought-after truffles in the world. This rare treat grows in autumn and is best eaten in its autochthonous environment. Most Istrian restaurants offer various truffle delicacies. www.istria-gourmet.com 24.9., Vižinada, Motovun, Istarske toplice MTB PARENZANA CUBE Rekreativni biciklistički maraton svake godine okuplja sve više ljubitelja rekreativnog biciklizma iz Hrvatske i drugih europskih zemalja. Očekuju vas zanimljivi prigodni programi i druženje. / Each year this recreational cycling marathon brings together an increasing number of recreational cycling fans from
Croatia and Europe. All participants can look forward to an interesting program and mingling. www.parenzana.com Šibenik i okolica / Šibenik and surroundings 25.9., Murter REGATA LATINSKO IDRO / THE LATINSKO IDRO REGATTA Na dan sv. Mihovila, zaštitnika murterske župe, održava se regata tradicijskih brodova - leuta, gajeta i kaića. Ruta regate prati težačke putove starih Murterana koji su svaki dan jedrili do svojih prekomorskih posjeda na Kornatima. Ta je regata inicijator niza tradicionalnih regata na Jadranu. / The day of St. Mihovil, patron saint of the Murter District, is the day of the regatta of traditional boats leut, gajeta and kaić. The regatta route follows the paths sailed by the Murter natives to their overseas property at Kornati. This regatta has initiated an array of other traditional regattas on the Adriatic. www.latinskoidro.hr LISTOPAD/OCTOBER
Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings
Munir Vejzović
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7.-15.10., Zagreb ZAGREB KOM 11 U Hrvatskome glazbenom zavodu održava se međunarodni festival komorne glazbe, na kojemu možete poslušati vrhunske izvedbe. / The Croatian Music Institute will be the venue for an international festival of chamber music with top class performances. www.zagreb-festival.org
Sisak i okolica / Sisak and surroundings 7.- 9.10., Hrvatska Kostajnica KESTENIJADA / CHESTNUT FESTIVAL Posjetite jednu od najljepših i najposjećenijih manifestacija pounjskog kraja. Raznolik i zanimljiv program, uz neobičan šarm toga maloga grada uz rijeku Unu, svake godine privlači domaće i inozemne posjetitelje. / Visit one of the greatest and most visited events in the region taking place along the Una River. A diverse and interesting program, as well as the unusual charm of this little town on the Una River, attracts an increasing number of Croatians as well as foreign visitors each year. www.hrvatska-kostajnica.hr Rijeka i okolica / Rijeka and surroundings 7. - 9.10., Punat DANI MASLINA / OLIVE DAYS Na ovome se događanju gostima otoka Krka prezentira raskoš kvalitetnog ploda masline. Jedinstvana je to prigoda da sudjelujete u berbi maslina i osjetite otočku svakodnevicu. / Guests on the Island of Krk are presented with everything a supreme olive has to offer. It is a unique opportunity to partake in olive picking and experience typical island life. www.tzpunat.hr 8.-9.10., Liganj 15.-16.10., Dobreć 21.-23.10., Lovran MARUNADA Lovranski maruni jedna su od najkvalitetnijih vrsta kestena. Na Kvarneru će vam ponuditi tradicionalne pečene marune i različite
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slastice spravljene od kestena, uz koje možete kušati i kvalitetna domaća pića./ The maruni of Lovran are among the best sort of chestnut. Traditional roasted chestnuts and various other chestnut treats, complemented by excellent homemade drinks, are on offer all across the Kvarner Region. www.tz-lovran.hr Gospić i okolica / Gospić and surroundings 30.9.-2.10., Gospić JESEN U LICI / AUTUMN IN LIKA Posjetite ovu tradicijsku izložbu na kojoj ćete moći čuti izvornu narodnu pjesmu, vidjeti ples ličkoga kraja, izradu proizvoda od gline, bukara i tamburica, pletenje košara, predenje vune itd. Na izložbi se mogu kupiti proizvodi malih poljoprivrednih gospodarstava. Izložbu prate kulturno-umjetnička društva, koja će upotpuniti vaš doživljaj. / Visit this traditional exhibition where you can listen to indigenous folk songs, enjoy the dance of the Lika region, learn about the process of basket weaving, wool spinning, and manufacturing clay products, wooden jugs and stringed instruments (the tamburica) etc. Visitors of the exhibition can purchase products from small farms; the exhibition features performances by various cultural and artistic societies. www.licko-senjska.hr
Jesen u Lici Autumn in Lika
Zadar i okolica / Zadar and surroundings 20.-23.10., Biograd BIOGRAD BOAT SHOW Biogradski jesenski nautički sajam postao je okupljalište predstavnika hrvatske nautičke industrije te označava kraj nautičke sezone i početak nove nautičke poslovne godine. Najveća je to izložba plovila u srednjoj Europi. / Nautical tourism in autumn - Biograd has become the gathering spot for representatives of the Croatian maritime industry, marking the end of the nautical season and the beginning of a new nautical fiscal year. It is the largest boat show in Central Europe. www.bbs.com.hr
STUDENI/November
Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings 11.11., Dugo Selo, Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, Velika Gorica, Jastrebarsko MARTINJE U ZAGREBAČKOJ ŽUPANIJI / MARTINJE IN THE ZAGREB REGION Popularno Martinje običaj je duboko ukorijenjen u tradiciju sjeverozapadnih krajeva Hrvatske i posebno se obilježava u Zagrebačkoj županiji. / The popular Martinje, or St. Martin’s Day, is a custom deeply-rooted in the tradition of northwestern Croatia, and is particularly celebrated in the Zagreb Region. www.zagreb.info
12.-20.11., Zagreb ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Na festivalu možete pogledati filmove koji nisu komercijalni, nego teže umjetničkim ostvarenjima i postaju hitovima. Projekcije filmova praćene su i koncertima. / The festival features non-commercial films that have become artistic hits. Film screenings also feature music concerts. www.zagrebfilmfestival.com Osijek i okolica / Osijek and surroundings 8.-9.11., Kutjevo PUTEVIMA PANDURA / ALONG THE PATHS OF THE GUARDS Manifestacija se odvija ispred povijesnog dvorca u Kutjevu, a uključuje povijesni prikaz posjeta carice Marije Terezije Kutjevu 1741. godine i njezin susret s barunom Trenkom i njegovim pandurima. / The event takes place in front of the historic castle in Kutjevo and consists of a historic reenactment of Empress Maria Theresa’s visit to Kutjevo in 1741, her meeting with Baron Trenk and his guards. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info PROSINAC/DECEMBER
Biograd Boat Show
Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings 26.11.2016. - 8.1.2017., Zagreb ADVENT U ZAGREBU / THE ADVENT IN ZAGREB Bogati zabavni program i ove će se godine održavati u sklopu te već tradicionalne blagdanske manifestacije, koja se organizira u srcu Zagreba - na Trgu bana Jelačića, kao i na ostalim trgovima i ulicama grada. / A diverse entertainment program will once again be taking place as part of the traditional holiday happening in the heart of Zagreb on the Square of Ban Josip Jelačić and other squares and streets across the city. www.adventzagreb.com 138
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PODRŽALI SMO WE HAVE SUPPORTED
Olimpijske igre za 10! Give me 10!!
Hrvatska s pet zlata na 4,2 milijuna stanovnika (izvor Eurostat) ima u prosjeku 1,19 zlatnih medalja na milijun ljudi i po tome je uvjerljivo najuspješnija država Europe, objavio je Državni zavod za statistiku
According to the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, with five gold medals and a population of 4.2 million people (Source: Eurostat), Croatia has an average of 1.19 gold medals for every million people, which makes it by far the most successful European country in that respect. Piπe/By Davor Janušić Fotografije/Photos Alan Grubelić
N
a 31. olimpijskim igrama, koje su održane u Rio de Janeiru (5.-21. kolovoza o.g.), hrvatski sportaši zabilježili su dosad najveći uspjeh u povijesti hrvatskoga olimpijskog sporta. Članovi hrvatske olimpijske reprezentacije u Brazilu su osvojili rekordnih 10
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medalja, od čega pet zlatnih, tri srebrne i dvije brončane, što je Hrvatskoj donijelo izvrsno 17. mjesto na završnoj listi osvajača medalja. Osim na brazilskim borilištima, hrvatski olimpijski uspjesi slavili su se i u zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa, službenog prijevoznika
Hrvatskoga olimpijskog odbora. Tako je 11. kolovoza našim letom iz Züricha u Zagreb stigao strijelac Josip Glasnović, koji je u disciplini trap osvojio zlato i počeo hrvatsku berbu medalja u Rio de Janeiru. Najviše dragocjenog tereta u našim se zrakoplovima sjajilo 20. ko-
Četiri medalje u pilotskoj kabini Sandra Perković (zlato); Šime Fantela i Igor Marenić (zlato); Tonči Stipanović (srebro) Four medals in the pilot’s cabin: Sandra Perković (gold); Šime Fantela and Igor Marenić (gold); Tonči Stipanović (silver)
Olimpijski pobjednik Josip Glasnović Olympic gold medalist Josip Glasnović
Filip Hrgović, brončani boksač Filip Hrgović, a bronze in boxing Srebrni vaterpolisti Silver medalists in water polo
lovoza na letu Frankfurt - Zagreb, na kojem su slavljeničku tortu zajednički izrezali zlatna bacačica diska Sandra Perković i hrvatski jedriličarski junaci, zlatni dvojac Šime Fantela i Igor Marenić (klasa 470) te srebrni Tonči Stipanović (klasa laser). Dva dana poslije u Zagreb smo dovezli i najveće iznenađenje olimpijskog turnira, senzacionalnu pobjednicu u bacanju koplja Saru Kolak (21.g.), kao i brončanog boksača Filipa Hrgovića, koji je osvojio prvu boksačku olimpijsku medalju za Hrvatsku od samostalnosti. Istoga se dana na letu iz Frankfurta u Split slavila i brončana medalja Blanke Vlašić, hrvatske skakačice uvis, a na večernjem letu Zagreb - Dubrovnik putnici su podijelili radost osvajanja srebrne olimpijske medalje i s čla-
novima hrvatske vaterpolske reprezentacije. Vrlo dragocjeni teret u Hrvatsku je stigao i 24. kolovoza zahvaljujući hrvatskim veslačima, braći Martinu i Valentu Sinkoviću, koji su postali olimpijski pobjednici u dvojcu na pariće, te Damiru Martinu (disciplina samac) kojemu je zlatna medalja izmakla u jednoj od najneizvjesnijih završnica u povijesti olimpijskih igara. No, 10 medalja i više je nego dovoljno da se nastup hrvatske olimpijske reprezentacije u Rio de Janeiru ocijeni sljedećom rečenicom: Olimpijske igre za 10!
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t the 31st Olympic Games, held in Rio de Janeiro between the 5th and the 21st of August, Croatian athletes achieved the CROATIA AIRLINES
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Hrvatske veslačke medalje: Damir Martin (srebro) i braća Martin i Valent Sinković (zlato) Croatian medals in rowing: Damir Martin (silver) and brothers Martin and Valent Sinković (gold)
greatest results in Croatian Olympic history. Members of the Croatian Olympic team in Brazil won a record 10 medals: five gold, three silver and two bronze, which placed Croatia 17th on the final list of medal winners. Croatian Olympic successes were celebrated not only in Brazil, but also onboard Croatia Airlines aircraft, the official carrier of the Croatian Olympic Committee. On August 11th, Croatian sports shooter, Josip Glasnović, returned to Zagreb via a flight from Zurich, having won the gold medal; this was the win that started the Croatian sweep of medals in Rio. The most precious cargo flew Croatia Airlines on August 20th, on a flight from Frankfurt to Zagreb, during which a celebratory cake was cut together by discus throw gold medalist, Sandra Perković, Croatian sailing heroes, the golden duo - Šime Fantela and Igor Marenić (class 470), and silver medal winner, Tonči Stipanović (laser). Two days later, we flew the greatest surprise of the Olympic tournament back to Zagreb - the sensational javelin throw gold winner, Sara Kolak (21), and bronze medal winner, Filip Hrgović, who won the first Olympic boxing medal for Croatia since its independence. On the Frankfurt to Split flight, we celebrated the bronze medal won by Blanka Vlašić, Croatian high jumper, while passengers of the evening flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik shared the joy of winning the Olympic silver with the Croatian water polo team. Sara Kolak, zlatna bacačica koplja Sara Kolak, gold medalist in javelin throw Hrvatski olimpijci na povratku u Zagreb
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Croatian Olympians after returning to Zagreb
Slavljenička torta za brončanu Blanku Vlašić Celebration cake for Branka Vlašić’s bronze medal
More precious cargo arrived in Croatia on August 24th, thanks to the efforts of two Croatian rowers: brothers, Martin and Valent Sinković, who won the gold medal in the double sculls, and Damir Martin (single sculls), who came just shy of winning the gold medal in one of the most exciting finales in the history of the Olympic Games. All in all, 10 medals is more than enough to rate the performance of the Croatian Olympic team in Rio as absolutely perfect! 142
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Fly with Croatia Airlines and get 15 % discount on all rentals! (Reservations : http://partner.sixt.de/croatia-airlines)
www.sixt.hr or +385(01) 6651 599
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tvorenje novoga putničkog terminala Međunarodne zračne luke Zagreb Franjo Tuđman, pridonijet će kontinuiranom rastu zračnog prometa u Hrvatskoj. Snažan i iskusan međunarodni konzorcij osigurao je ovom projektu sinergiju znanja i međunarodne prakse u zrakoplovnoj industriji. Sukladno poslovnom planovima Međunarodne zračne luke Zagreb, očekuje se da će razvoj i rast kapaciteta rezultirati daljnjim porastom prometa i kontinuiranim povećanjem broja putnika, a i povećanjem mreže dostupnih, izravnih, letova. Zračna luka posljednjih godina bilježi porast broja putnika, što je posljedica rasta u prvom redu Croatia Airlinesa, ali i dolaska novih zrakoplovnih prijevoznika. Otvorenjem novoga putničkog terminala u ožujku 2017. godine povećat će se kapacitet od 3,5 milijuna putnika godišnje, a u kasnijim fazama ovog projekta putnički će se terminal proširiti na kapacitet 5 - 8 milijuna putnika. Novi putnički terminal značajno će pridonijeti boljem pozicioniranju zračne luke i postati zaštitni znak grada Zagreba, a jačanjem mreže letova i sinergijom poslovnih aktivnosti kreirat će i nova radna mjesta te osigurati trajno naslijeđe za buduće generacije.
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he opening of the International Zagreb Airport Franjo Tuđman’s new passenger terminal will help continue the upward trend in Croatian passenger air traffic. Over the past years alone passenger traffic at the airport boosted, primarily as a result of Croatia Airlines growth and a number of new entrant airlines.
Strong and consistent consortium behind the project ensures the synergy of knowledge, international know-how and experience. Combined with the goal-oriented business approach at the International Zagreb Airport it is expected that development and growth of the airport’s handling capacity, as well as the increase in the air travel demand and network of available direct routes, will be achieved as planned. Upon opening of the airport’s New Passenger Terminal for public in March 2017 it will have
the capacity to handle 3.5 million passengers per year, while in subsequent phases of this project, the new passenger terminal will be expanded to reach an annual capacity of five-eight million annual passengers. Moreover, this new landmark will become essential to Zagreb’s image thus contributing, enforcing and positioning the airport’s role, continuously improving connectivity and synergies, creating new jobs and apprenticeships and securing a lasting legacy for the future generations.
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D. Fabijanić
SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 149 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED
152 NOVOSTI NEWS
154 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 159 FLOTA FLEET 167 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 161 ZRA»NE LUKE AIRPORTS 162 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 164 ADRESE S. Jungić
ADDRESSES
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THE WAY WE INSPIRE YOU Are you ready for the trip of a lifetime? Come and explore our new inspirational Round the World itineraries. From aquatic wonders to romantic journeys, your first step on a great adventure begins at staralliance.com/inspiration
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Miles & More
Osnove programa Miles & More
Introducing Miles & More
Miles & More vodeÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Eu ropi i nudi Ëlanovima razliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kartica Miles & More.
Miles & More is the leading frequent flyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attrac tive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.
Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u programu Miles & More prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojega ostvarujete pogodnosti, prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendar skoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËekuje vas
Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members CROATIA AIRLINES
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status Senator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalen darske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.
who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Cir cle status.
Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus − 25 posto više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji te razredu prijevoza. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu.
Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Business Class counter - Increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in total (Economy or Business).
Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus − 25 posto više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 nagradnih milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lo unge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati u najvišoj klasi knjiženja u ekonomskome i poslovnom razredu - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu - 2 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja statusa Senator te prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award - Companion Award
Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Acc es s to the Luf thans a Sen ator Lou ng e as well as to the Star Gold Lou ng es of Star Allia nc e partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before departure in the highest booking class in Business and Economy class - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business - 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal. - Senator Premium Award - Companion award
Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - predujam od 100.000 nagradnih milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - 6 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja statusa HON Circle te prilikom svake obnove statusa - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu
HON Circle privileges - All exis ting Sen ator priv il eg es highest waiting list priority
PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS
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- 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or par tner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags Business
Troπite milje
Spend miles
Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagra de: nagradne zrakoplovne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a-car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShopu.
You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: flight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.
Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu!
Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card!
5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potro πenih preko ove kartice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n
Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno pla Êajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. n
n 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile
Collect award miles ever y where − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad
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n 2 cre d it card s − 1 Miles & More memb ers hip account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.
Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!
Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!
Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.
Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.
Zatražite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express karticu!
Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express card!
2 kartice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se isto dobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.
4 kn = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 4 kune potrošenih preko ove kartice bilježi vam se 1 nagradna milja n
2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike, 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana n
Bez plaćanja upisnine i članarine za prvu godinu korištenja (do 30.09.2016) n
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Putno osiguranje
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Milje ne zastarijevaju
4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spend via this card, you collect 1 mile
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2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users
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n Free enrolment and annual membership fee for first year (until 30.09.2016) n
Travel insurance
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Miles not expire
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Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croaita Airlines and PBZ Card Travel
Zatraæite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu kar ticu!
Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card!
4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 6 kune potroπene preko Premium kartice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odno sno za svakih 7 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kartice
n 4 HRK = 1 award mi le − for every 6 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 7 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile.
2000 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnovne Premi um korisnike i 1000 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike
n 2.000 welcome miles − for new ba sic Premium card users and 1.000 welcome miles for new additional Premi um card users.
1000 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Stan dard korisnike
n 1.000 welcome miles − for new ba sic Standard card users and 500 welcome miles for new additional Stan dard card users.
Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela
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n Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslovnica ma Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa (uz naknadu za pristup).
Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com
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Earn double award miles − using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of fices and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa. (visit charge applicable).
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Please find detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com CROATIA AIRLINES
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PREVEZLI SMO MILIJUNTOG PUTNIKA U OVOJ GODINI Našega milijuntog putnika u ovoj godini prevezli smo 15. srpnja, najranije u povijesti tvrtke. Ovogodišnja je jubilarna putnica Suzana Brenko, a zabilježena je na redovitom letu OU 663 iz Dubrovnika u Zagreb. Našoj sretnoj putnici darovali smo dvije besplatne povratne zrakoplovne karte u poslovnom razredu za jedno od međunarodnih odredišta po izboru.
IMAMO KAPETANICU Naša pilotkinja Kristina Mlinarić uspješno je položila kapetanski ispit i tako postala jedina žena pilot s tom titulom u Hrvatskoj i regiji. Uspješni kapetanski check obavila je 7. srpnja upravljajući zrakoplovom Dash 8-Q400 na letu OU436/437 Zagreb-München-Zagreb. Kristina Mlinarić kapetanske je epolete dobila dvanaest godina nakon zaposlenja u Croatia Airlinesu, tijekom kojih je radila kao kopilotkinja zrakoplova Airbus i u zraku provela više od 6000 sati. Sredinom veljače počela je obuku za kapetana zrakoplova Dash 8-Q400 te je nakon teorijskog školovanja, provjera na simulatoru i tzv. linijskih letova, ušla u povijest hrvatskoga civilnog zrakoplovstva.
WE HAVE A FEMALE CAPTAIN Our pilot, Kristina Mlinarić, has successfully passed her captain’s exam, having become the only female airline captain in Croatia and the region. She successfully passed her check on July 7th flying the Dash 8-Q400 on flight OU436/437 Zagreb-Munich-Zagreb. Kristina Mlinarić earned her captain’s wings after twelve years at Croatia Airlines, flying as a co-pilot on Airbus aircraft, clocking more than 6000 hours in the air. In mid-February, she started training for Dash 8-Q400 Captain, and after passing her theoretical exams, simulator checks and the so-called line oriented flight training, she made Croatian civilian flight history.
R. Romanović
Suzana Brenko, naša ovogodišnja milijunta putnica / Suzana Brenko, our this year's one millionth passenger
A. Grubelić
THIS YEAR’S MILLIONTH PASSENGER Our millionth passenger this year flew with us on July 15th, which is the earliest in the history of our company. This year’s jubilee passenger is Suzana Brenko, who flew on scheduled flight OU 663 from Dubrovnik to Zagreb. We have awarded her with two return business class tickets for a flight to one of our international destinations of her choice.
Kapetanica/Captain Kristina Mlinarić
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NASTAVLJAMO S POZITIVNIM TRENDOVIMA U POSLOVANJU Croatia Airlines u prvom polugodištu ove godine zabilježio je rast ukupno prevezenih putnika za dva posto u odnosu na isto razdoblje lani. Ukupna prodaja bilježi pozitivan trend s rastom od jedan posto, a osobit pozitivan pomak ostvaren je u prodaji na domaćem tržištu, koja bilježi rast od pet posto u odnosu na prošlu godinu te jasno pokazuje oporavak domaćeg tržišta. CONTINUING POSITIVE BUSINESS TRENDS In the first half of this year, Croatia Airlines saw an increase in passenger numbers by two percent compared to the same period last year. Total sales mark a positive trend with a growth of one percent, and particular improvement has been realized in domestic flight sales, which has seen a growth of five percent compared to last year, clearly indicative of the recovery of the domestic market. CROATIA AIRLINES MEĐU NAJBOLJIM EUROPSKIM ZRAKOPLOVNIM KOMPANIJAMA Na Farnborough Air Showu održanom u srpnju, u sklopu kojega su dodijeljene prestižne svjetske zrakoplovne nagrade - The World Airline Awards, naša je kompanija proglašena jednom od najboljih zrakoplovnih kompanija u istočnoj Europi. Unatoč veoma jakoj konkurenciji, Croatia Airlines zauzeo je visoko četvrto mjesto.
The World Airline Awards najprestižnije je globalno priznanje u zrakoplovnoj industriji, poznatije kao zrakoplovni Oscar. Zrakoplovnim kompanijama nagrade se dodjeljuju na temelju iskustava putnika, a samo je ove godine u istraživanju sudjelovalo njih više od devetnaest milijuna. U to istraživanje bilo je uključeno i 40-ak ključnih pokazatelja uspješnosti te više od 280 zrakoplovnih prijevoznika diljem svijeta.
Volim putovati!
CROATIA AIRLINES AMONG THE BEST EUROPEAN AIRLINES Our company was pronounced one of the best airlines in Eastern Europe at the Farnborough Air Show where the prestigious World Airline Awards ceremony was held in July. In a very tough competition, Croatia Airlines was deservedly ranked a high fourth. The World Airline Award is the most prestigious global award in the airline industry, and it is known as the airline Oscars. Awards are presented to airlines based on passenger experience, and more than nineteen million passengers participated in this year’s survey. The survey included some 40 key indicators of success and more than 280 airlines across the world. NOVOSTI U ZIMSKOM REDU LETENJA Croatia Airlines, tijekom zimskog reda letenja (30.10. 2016. - 25.3. 2017.), prilagodit će prometovanje svojih zrakoplova u domaćemu i međunarodnom prometu potrebama svojih putnika u zimskom C razdoblju te intenzivirati pojedine linije. Novost je da ćemo tijekom zimskog reda letenja letjeti na linijama: M
Dubrovnik - Frankfurt, utorkom, četvrtkom i nedjeljom
Zagreb - Kopenhagen, svaki dan osim subotom
Split - München, svaki dan osim subotom
Split - Rim, svaki dan
Sve informacije o našim letovima možete pronaći na www.croatiaairlines.hr ili m.croatiaairlines.hr te na tel. +385 1 6676 555 / 072 500 505.
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NOVELTIES IN THE WINTER FLIGHT TIMETABLE For the upcoming winter flight timetable (Oct. 30th 2016 - Mar. 25th 2017), Croatia Airlines will be adapting its flights in domestic and international transport according to the needs of its passengers in the winter period, which includes increasing the number of particular flights. Novelties in the winter timetable are our flights:
Kada i gdje god želiš...
Dubrovnik - Frankfurt, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays
Zagreb - Copenhagen, daily, not including Saturdays
Split - Munich, daily, not including Saturdays
Split - Rome, daily
Nova aplikacija također omogućuje provjeru reda letenja, statusa leta, posebnih ponuda te pruža sve informacije koje su vam potrebne prije leta.
All information about our flights can be found online at: www.croatiaairlines.hr or m.croatiaairlines.hr or call us at: +385 1 6676 555 / 072 500 505.
Kupi aviokartu, prijavi se za let, spremi boarding pass i otputuj u željenu destinaciju!
Preuzmi Croatia Airlines aplikaciju i organiziraj svoje putovanje brzo i jednostavno, koristeći mobilni uređaj.
072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555
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RU»NA PRTLJAGA
Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n n
P. Strmečki
Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.
PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi. RED SJEDENJA
D. Fabijanić
Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.
UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta. ELEKTRONIČKI URE�AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja. Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala
ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima.
Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Faze leta Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet
Prijenosno raËunalo
Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke
Funkcija teksta/razgovora
Ukrcavanje
DA
DA
DA
DA
Kaπnjenje u polasku
DA
DA
DA
DA
Taksiranje za polijetanje
DA
NE
DA*
NE
Polijetanje DA
NE DA*
NE
Tijekom leta
DA
DA
NE
Spuπtanje
DA
NE DA*
NE
Slijetanje
DA
NE
DA*
NE
Taksiranje
DA
NE
DA*
DA
DA
*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje
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DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr
predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.
HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments.
S. Jungić
In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.
Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.
PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in flight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on. List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games
RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.
We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages. On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors.
Use of electronic devices during different flight phases Flight phase
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s
n
IN-FLIGHT SERVICES
Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.
SEAT ASSIGNMENT
e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n
Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)
Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)
Noise- cancelling Headphones
Text and phone functions
Boarding
YES
YES
YES
YES
Extended Ground Delay
YES
YES
YES
YES
Taxi-out for Take-off
YES
NO
YES*
NO
YES* NO
Take-off
YES
NO
Cruise
YES
YES
YES
Descent
YES
NO
YES* NO
Landing
YES
NO
YES*
NO
Taxi to Stand
YES
NO
YES*
YES
NO
*During critical phases of flight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players. CROATIA AIRLINES
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THE WHOLE WORLD IS AT MY FINGERTIPS, THANKS TO CROATIA AIRLINES AND STAR ALLIANCE. THE WAY I LIKE TO TRAVEL.
Maksim Mrvica, World renowned pianist, Miles & More Senator and Star Alliance Gold Status
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Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.
Specifikacije / Specifications
Airbus A320-200
Airbus A319-100
Dash8 - Q400
Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)
34,1 / 111
34,1 / 111
28,42 / 93,24
Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)
37,6 / 123
33,84 / 111
32,83 / 107,71
NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)
73 500
70 000
29 257
NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)
11 920 / 39 100
11 900 / 39 000
7620 / 25 000
Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)
122,40 / 1318
122,40 / 1318
63,08 / 679
NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)
834 (450 KTS)
834 (450 KTS)
667 (360 KTS)
Pogonska grupa / Power-plants
motori / engines x 2 CFM 56
motori / engines x 2 CFM 56
motori / engines x 2 PW 150A
Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet
2
4
6
Broj sjedala / Number of seats
174
144
76
Airbus 320-200
Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.
Airbus 319-100
Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.
Dash 8-Q400
Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta. One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES
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CROATIA AIRLINES
•
TRONDHEIM
BERGEN ST. PETERSBURG
Aberdeen
STAVANGER
Edinburg Belfast Dublin
Manchester
VILNIUS GDANSK
BERLIN Kassel DUSSELDORF
POZNAN
Chisinau LYON
Turin
PORTO
MILAN VENICE
OSIJEK
Genoa Bologna NICE
Madrid
RIJEKA
BELGRADE Bucharest
BRA» BARCELONA
Podgorica Bari Tirana
Palermo Catania
ATHENS
Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman ■ linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services
■ u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama
in cooperation with partner airline
Partneri / Partners: Air France
Alitalia
Austrian Airlines
Brussels Airlines
KLM
LOT Polish Airlines
Lufthansa
SAS
Singapore Airlines
Swiss International Air Lines
Turkish Airlines
United Airlines
TAP Portugal
TAP PORTUGAL
Air Canada
CROATIA AIRLINES
159
t +385 20 773 100 f +385 20 773 322 e info@airport-dubrovnik.hr w www.airport-dubrovnik.hr
Fly to Dubrovnik
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AIRPORTS
Volim putovati! I love to travel!
Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals
Prikupljajte nagradne milje, iskoristite besplatnu uslugu hrane i pića na letu kao i pogodnost web check-ina. Earn miles, get free drinks and snacks on board and take advantage of web check-in at no additional cost.
072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 croatiaairlines.hr
Moja aviokompanija.
ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION AMSTERDAM (AMS) ATHENS (ATH) BARCELONA (BCN) BELGRADE (BEG) BRUSSELS (BRU) PARIS (CDG) COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUSSELDORF (DUS) ROME (FCO) FRANKFURT (FRA) SAINT PETERSBURG (LED) LONDON GATWICK (LGW) LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) LISBON (LIS) LYON (LYS) MILAN (MXP) MUNICH (MUC) NICE (NCE) PRAGUE (PRG) PRISHTINA (PRN) SARAJEVO (SJJ) SKOPJE (SKP) TEL AVIV (TLV) BERLIN (TXL) VENICE (VCE) VIENNA (VIE) ZURICH (ZRH)
ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT Schiphol Amsterdam Airport Athens International Airport Barcelona El Prat Airport Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport Brussels Airport Zaventem Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Copenhagen Airport Düsseldorf Airport Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport Frankfurt Airport St Petersburg Pulkovo Airport Gatwick Airport Heathrow Airport Lisbon International Airport Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport Malpensa Airport Munich Airport Nice Côte d'Azur International Airport Vaclav Havel Airport Prague Pristina International Airport Sarajevo International Airport Skopje Alexander the Great Airport Ben Gurion International Airport Berlin Tegel Airport Venice Marco Polo Airport Vienna Airport Zurich Airport
TERMINAL terminal 3 main terminal terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal B terminal 2D terminal 2 terminal A terminal 3 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal S terminal 2 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal 2 terminal 1 main terminal terminal B main terminal terminal 3 terminal A, C main terminal terminal 3 terminal 2
Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information
plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr
www.plesoprijevoz.hr
ZAGREB
Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094
RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757 CROATIA AIRLINES
169 161
Jenna Diermann
Dragi putnici!
Putujem da bih svoj duh očuvala slobodnim i živim. I travel to keep my spirit free and my soul alive.
Hvala vam na lijepim fotografijama koje dijelite s nama. Priuštite si odmor i u toplo jesensko doba, neka vas zlatne boje jeseni inspiriraju za fotografiranje posebnih motiva. Nadamo se kako svoja putovanja planirate s Croatia Airlinesom te kako ćete nam i dalje slati nove, zanimljive i neobične fotografije s vaših putovanja. Uz jednu rečenicu u kojoj objašnjavate zašto volite putovati, pošaljite nam fotografiju i sudjelujte u našemu nagradnom natječaju. Pobjednika ćemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odredišta Croatia Airlinesa, a dva će dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. U ovom broju putnoga časopisa dvjema povratnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa za najbolju fotografiju nagrađujemo Krešimira Božaka. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit ćemo Marka Pletikosu i Jennu Diermann. Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u idućem broju očekuju vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite našu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines. hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natječaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natječaja i sudjelujte!
Marko Pletikosa
Dear passengers!
Putovanje je način da, upoznavajući različito, upoznam sebe... i svaki put želim vidjeti neku novu različitost... kušati novu gastronomiju... upoznati nove ljude... i tako mijenjati i sebe nabolje.
Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sharing with us. We hope you will be able to indulge yourself and take a vacation during the warm autumn season. Let the golden colours of autumn inspire you to take photographs of very special sites. We hope that you are planning your next vacation with Croatia Airlines and that you will continue sending us interesting and unusual photographs of your travels. Take part in the photo contest and send us your photographs accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling. . We will award the first prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. The best photo in this issue was taken by Krešimir Božak; he is the winner of two Croatia Airlines air tickets. Marko Pletikosa and Jenna Diermann have won promotional gift packages. We encourage you to continue sending us your photographs because in the next issue, valuable prizes await you again. Visit our web page at: www. croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), see the conditions, and take part in the contest!
Volim ona putovanja na kojima se mogu maknuti od stresne svakodnevice na nekoliko dana i uživati u istraživanju novih mjesta. Travelling takes me away from my stressful daily routine for a few days and allows me to enjoy exploring new places
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CROATIA AIRLINES
Krešimir Božak
Travelling allows me to learn about myself by experiencing different things….. On each trip, I seek to see something new, taste different dishes, meet new people, and through such experiences, improve myself.
Putujte po Hrvatskoj - udvoje! 2 povratne aviokarte već od 999 kn
Dvije povratne aviokarte za domaće letove već od 999 kuna! Cijena se odnosi na dvije osobe koje putuju zajedno u oba smjera. Karte je potrebno kupiti najmanje 21 dan prije putovanja, a putovati možete od 17. 10. 2016. do 31. 5. 2017. U cijenu su uključene pristojbe zračnih luka i naknada za izdavanje karte (TSC), za kupnju na www.croatiaairlines.hr, a za kupnju na drugim prodajnim mjestima Croatia Airlinesa naplaćuje se dodatna naknada za izdavanje karte. Broj mjesta po promotivnoj cijeni na svakom je letu ograničen.
072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555
croatiaairlines.hr Moja aviokompanija.
CROATIA AIRLINES
163
Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153
Paris
E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr
Pula
Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 17:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Odnosi s korisnicima / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 http://www.croatiaairlines.com/hr/Zahtjev http://www.croatiaairlines.com/Claim Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 616 02 46 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Frankfurt Airport Center 1 Gebäude 234, HBK 49 Hugo-Eckener-Ring 60549 Frankfurt Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London
164
Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 2A, Room A30ATE104, Level 30, Departures, Zone B, Lanside Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr CROATIA AIRLINES
95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr
Rijeka
51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Rome 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Letzigraben 154, 8047 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka / the Czech Republic CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr Kosovo Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr
Portugal APG - Portugal Rua Tenente Espanca, nº3 − 3º A, 1050 - 220 Lisboa Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr info@apg-portugal.com Rusija/Russia GRM (Global Russia Marketing) Bolshaya Sadovaya street 10, office 20, 123001 Moscow, Russia Tel. +7 495 981 14 00 Fax +351 219 100 059 ou.mow@grm-russia.com SlovaËka / Slovakia CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Srbija / Serbia INTERTRAVEL GSA Topličin Venac 19-21 11000 Beograd Tel. +381 11 310 89 69 Fax +381 11 310 89 68 ou@intertravel.rs Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT Rambla de Catalunya, 61 5º 3ª, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok / Middle East Izrael / Israel Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Shimbashi Frontier Building, 7F 3-4-5 Shimbashi Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0004 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax +82 2 779 8795 croatiaairlines@bohramair.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Pacific Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax +886 2 2515 3463 peclpax@ms57.hinet.net
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