Inflight jesen 2015 by Croatia Airlines

CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS ■

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

J E S E N JESEN ■ AUTUMN 2015

VA©

VLASTITI

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I N F L I G H T

A U T U M N

PRIMJERAK

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M A G A Z I N E

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PERSONAL

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STAY BALANCED Experience Zagrebâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafĂŠs, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance. The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep. The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers! ` ,:HI>C (I6N 6A6C8:9 ,:AAC:HH E68@6<: ` (I6N É&#x192; C><=IH Q (6K: É&#x192;É FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT RESERVATIONS@WESTINZAGREB.COM

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Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Evo nas u jesenskom dijelu godine. Nadam se da ste se preko ljeta odmorili u nekome od naπih odrediπta te skupili snage za hladnije dane. I za nas je ljeto bilo zanimljivo i dinamiËno. U srpnju smo, jedan dan prije nego lani, zabiljeæili naπega milijuntog putnika u ovoj godini, na letu iz Amsterdama u Zagreb. TuristiËka sezona bila je vrlo uspjeπna, a naπim zrakoplovima letjelo je viπe putnika nego prethodnog ljeta. Ove godine na letovima Croatia Airlinesa oËekujemo tri posto viπe putnika nego lani. Uistinu smo se trudili da svakom putniku osiguramo najviπu moguÊu razinu usluge, a veseli nas i πto je naπ trud prepoznat. Naime, u ovogodiπnjem izboru Skytraxa, britantske konzultantske tvrtke za istraæivanje kvalitete avioprijevoznika, koja svake godine dodjeljuje nagradu World Airline Awards, Croatia Airlines proglaπen je Ëetvrtim najboljim avioprijevoznikom u istoËnoj Europi. BuduÊi da je rijeË o najveÊem neovisnom strukovnom istraæivanju civilnoga zrakoplovstva u svijetu, to priznanje smatramo potvrdom da smo na dobrom putu, ali i poticajem da dodatno nastavimo razvijati kvalitetu naπe usluge. Raduje me, dragi putnici, πto ste i sada u zrakoplovu Croatia Airlinesa. Da bismo vam upotpunili trenutke leta, i u ovom broju naπega Ëasopisa pripremili smo vam, vjerujemo, zanimljive teme. Na poËetku moæete proËitati intervju s uglednim prvakom berlinskog baleta Leonardom Jakovinom, koji se vratio u rodni Zagreb kako bi preuzeo funkciju ravnatelja Baleta Hrvatskoga narodnog kazaliπta. Ako ste u Zagrebu, predlaæemo da odπeÊete do Muzeja iluzija, kojemu, iako je tek nedavno otvoren, ne nedostaje posjetitelja. Predlaæemo da posjetite i æivopisni jaskanski kraj, poznat po dobrom vinu, osobito atraktivan u jesen. Predstavljamo i Buzet i okolne krajolike na sjeveru Istarskog poluotoka, kao stvorene za odmor i uæivanje u prirodi. A na kraju jeseni, u prosincu, pozivamo vas da posjetite Zagreb i uvjerite se zaπto svake godine u vrijeme adventa u glavni hrvatski grad dolazi sve viπe posjetitelja kako bi uæivali u osobitom blagdanskom ugoaju. Zahvaljujem vam na povjerenju πto letite Croatia Airlinesom i æelim ugodne trenutke u vaπemu krajnjem odrediπtu, ma kamo putovali.

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Dear passengers, Here we are in the autumn part of the year. I hope you have had a pleasant summer rest at one of our destinations and gathered strength for the colder days. This summer was interesting and dynamic for us as well. In July, one day earlier than last year, on a ﬂight from Amsterdam to Zagreb, we recorded our millionth passenger. The tourist season was very

D. FabijaniÊ

D. FabijaniÊ - Buzet

Poπtovani putnici!

successful, and our aircraft carried more passengers than they did last summer. This year, we expect three percent more passengers on Croatia Airlines’ flights than last year. We have indeed been striving to provide the highest possible level of service to every passenger, and we are pleased that our efforts have been recognized. This year, Skytrax, a British consulting firm responsible for doing research into the quality of airline services, and which, every year, gives out the prestigious World Airline Awards, declared Croatia Airlines as the fourth best airline in Eastern Europe. Given that this is the largest independent professional survey of civil aviation done in the world, we consider this recognition as confirmation that we are on the right track, but also as encouragement to continue further developing the quality of our services. Dear passengers, I am pleased that you are, again, flying with Croatia Airlines. In order to make your flight more pleasant, in this issue of our magazine, we have published many articles that we believe you will find interesting. At the beginning, you can read an interview with a prominent soloist of the German State Ballet in Berlin, Leonard Jakovina, who has returned to his native Zagreb to assume the Ballet director position at the Croatian National Theatre. If you are in Zagreb, we suggest that you take a walk to the Museum of Illusions, which has already had a myriad of visitors even though it has only recently opened. We suggest you visit the picturesque Jaska region, known for its good wines, which is especially attractive in autumn. We also introduce you to Buzet and the surrounding area in the north of the Istrian peninsula, perfect for relaxation and enjoying the outdoors. At the end of autumn, in December, we invite you to visit Zagreb and see for yourself why, every year, an increasingly large number of visitors come to the Croatian capital during Advent to enjoy the special holiday atmosphere. Thank you for flying Croatia Airlines and I wish you a pleasant journey on route to your final destination, wherever you are travelling to. Vaš, Yours faithfully,

Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO CROATIA AIRLINES

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

6 Intervju: Leonard Jakovina

MALE STVARI TVORE SAVRŠENSTVO, A SAVRŠENSTVO JE VELIKA STVAR

Leonard Jakovina u naponu plesaËkih snaga i potpune umjetniËke zrelosti, vratio se iz Berlina u Zagreb i preuzeo funkciju ravnatelja Baleta Hrvatskoga narodnog kazaliπta. Interview: Leonard Jakovina

TRIFLES MAKE PERFECTION AND PERFECTION IS NO TRIFLE

Leonard Jakovina at the height of his dancing power, having reached complete artistic maturity, decided to come back to Zagreb and take on the ballet director position at the Croatian National Theatre. 16 Muzeji

28 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

Novootvoreni zagrebaËki muzej jedan je od primjera kako dobra ideja i bez golemih ulaganja moæe biti okrunjena uspjehom. Posjetitelja ovome muzeju ne nedostaje.

Jastrebarsko i jaskanski kraj vrlo su blizu Zagrebu (tridesetak kilometara udaljenosti), a æivot teËe drugaËijim, sporijim ritmom. Ne čudi što broj posjetitelja stalno raste.

STVARNOST MUZEJA ILUZIJA

Museums

Inland Croatia

This newly-opened museum is one example of a good idea which became a success without much investment. This museum certainly does not lack visitors.

Although Jastrebarsko and the Jaska region are very close to Zagreb (some thirty kilometres away), they offer a very different lifestyle, which is why the number of visitors attracted to its slow rhythm is constantly on the rise.

THE REALITY OF THE MUSEUM OF ILLUSIONS

Jesen/Autumn 2015 www.croatiaairlines.com

40 Enologija VINSKI DRAGULJ KONTINENTALNE HRVATSKE Obronci Pleπivice nedaleko od Zagreba ekoloπla su oaza koja omoguÊuje posjetiteljima vrhunski vinski uæitak. Enology THE VITICULTURAL JEWEL OF INLAND CROATIA The slopes of Pleπivica near Zagreb are an ecological oasis for visitors looking to have an enjoyable wine-tasting experience.

CROATIA AIRLINES

UÆIVAJTE U JASTREBARSKOM!

HAVE FUN IN JASTREBARSKO!

CROATIA AIRLINES

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

50 Istra BUZET, BAŠTINA DOBRIH I HRABRIH Buzet i njegovi krajolici na sjeveru Istarskog poluotoka stapaju duπu dolaznika sa samozatajnom ljepotom netaknute prirode i bogatstvom jedinstvene gastronomije. Istria BUZET - THE LEGACY OF THE GOOD AND THE BOLD Buzet and its countryside in the north of the Istrian peninsula, form a bond between a visitor’s soul and the untouched beauty of nature, with the wealth of a unique gastronomy.

74 Tradicija

92 Podmorje

Ove godine sinjska alka slavi tristoti jubilej. Malobrojni Sinjani nadjaËali su viπestruko brojnije osvajaËe, u Ëemu im je, kako svi mjeπtani vjeruju, Ëudom pomogla Gospa.

»ovjek uvijek moæe birati. Ostati u nekoj pliÊini ili zaroniti duboko ispod povrπine vode, u predjele Ëudesnoga podvodnog svijeta.

SINJ, OD ALKE DO GOSPE

Tradition

Underwater world

This year was the three-hundredth jubilee of the Alka. A few Sinj ﬁghters overpowered a much stronger conquerors with the miraculous help of no other than Our Lady herself.

A man always has a choice - to stay close to the shore, or dive deep under the water’s surface, into an amazing world under water.

SINJ - FROM THE ALKA TO OUR LADY

102 Meridijani

Predstavljamo neke naše autore koji su uspjeli recentne kreacije, bilo da je rijeË o modnom ili produkt oblikovanju, plasirati daleko izvan granica Hrvatske.

NajveÊa indijska savezna dræava nezaobilazno je mjesto svakoga tko putuje indijskim sjeverom.

Design

CROATIAN AUTHORS SUCCEED ABROAD

We would like to introduce some of our designers who have managed to sell their recent creations, fashions, and product designs well beyond the borders of Croatia.

This is your personal copy

134 Baπtina

TKO SU NAJVEĆI HRVATSKI VELIKANI

U odnosu na broj stanovnika i veliËinu dræave, Hrvati i Hrvatska Europi su i svijetu darovali natprosjeËno mnogo stvaratelja na razliËitim podruËjima æivota. Heritage

WHO ARE THE GREATEST OF THE CROATIAN GREATS?

With respect to the number of inhabitants and the size of the republic, Croatians and Croatia have given Europe and the world more than their fair share of creators in various spheres of life. 4

CROATIA AIRLINES

A FATHOMLESS, TIMELESS, FREE WORLD

118 Dizajn

HRVATSKI AUTORI USPIJEVAJU IZVAN GRANICA DOMOVINE

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

BESKRAJNI, BEZVREMENI, SLOBODNI SVIJET

RAJASTHAN, ZEMLJA KRALJEVA, PALAČA I PUTUJUĆIH PRIPOVJEDAČA

Merdians

RAJASTHAN A LAND OF KINGS, PALACES, AND TRAVELLING STORYTELLERS The largest Indian state, is a must-visit place for anybody travelling to the north of the country.

CROATIA AIRLINES

RAZGOVOR LEONARD JAKOVINA

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir Fabijanić

INTERVIEW LEONARD JAKOVINA

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZagrepËanin Leonard Jakovina Ëetrnaest je godina bio veoma eksponirani solist Dræavnog baleta u Berlinu. Na matiËnoj sceni, u suradnji s najveÊim koreograﬁma danaπnjice, ostvario je niz velikih uloga, podjednako uvjerljivo u djelima klasiËnoga, neoklasiËnoga i modernog repertoara, ali i u novonastalim solistiËkim ulogama koreograﬁranima specijalno za njega. UnatoË svim tim uspjesima te tomu što je upravo sada u naponu plesaËkih snaga i potpune umjetniËke zrelosti, Leonard Jakovina potkraj 2014. odluËio se vratiti u Zagreb i preuzeti funkciju ravnatelja Baleta Hrvatskoga narodnog kazaliπta. A native of Zagreb, Leonard Jakovina was a very prominent soloist with the German State Ballet in Berlin for 14 years. On the stage of his native theatre, together with the greatest choreographers of today, he played a series of great roles, equally convincing in the works of classical, neoclassical and modern repertoires, as well as in newly created solo roles choreographed specially for him. Despite these successes and the fact that he had reached the peak of his dancing power and complete artistic maturity, Leonard Jakovina decided to come back to Zagreb towards the end of 2014, and assume the ballet director position at the Croatian National Theatre. 8

CROATIA AIRLINES

ao solist Berlinskoga dræavnog baleta gostovao je u ©vicarskoj, ©panjolskoj, Rusiji, Japanu, Kini, Tajlandu, Tajvanu, Indiji i drugdje, a pozivi za samostalna gostovanja vodili su ga u Poljsku, Japan, prestiæni Boljπoj teatar u Moskvi, te u njegov rodni grad Zagreb. Godine 2009. Berlinska teatroloπka zajednica nominirala ga je za godiπnju nagradu kao najperspektivnijeg umjetnika u kategoriji opera / drama / balet, a o njegovoj umjetniËkoj karijeri i scenskim postignuÊima njemaËki TV-kanal ZDF snimio je 2010. godine dokumentarni ﬁlm pod naslovom Der Tänzer, u sklopu serijala Die Theatermacher. UnatoË svim tim uspjesima te tomu što je upravo sada u naponu plesaËkih snaga i potpune umjetniËke zrelosti, ZagrepËanin Leonard Jakovina potkraj 2014. odluËio se vratiti u rodni grad i preuzeti funkciju ravnatelja Baleta Hrvatskoga narodnog kazaliπta. Od svoje berlinske publike trijumfalno se oprostio nastupivπi kao Don Juan na praizvedbi istoimenog baleta svjetski uglednoga talijanskog koreografa Giorgia Madije, a proteklih πest mjeseci svojim je iskustvom, znanjem i golemom radnom energijom soliste i ansambl ZagrebaËkog baleta poËeo ubrzanim ali i sigurnim koracima uzdizati na europsku izvedbenu razinu. ■ Na vrhuncu karijere odluËili ste napustiti Berlin i preuzeti mjesto ravnatelja ZagrebaËkog baleta. Milko ©paremblek, svjetski ugledni zagrebaËki koreograf, koji je bio ravnatelj nekoliko poznatih baletnih kompanija, ovako mi je prokomentirao Vaπu profesionalnu prekretnicu: Na Ëelo ZagrebaËkog baleta doπao je vrlo kompetentan umjetnik, koji je, kao sjajan solist, joπ barem nekoliko sezona mogao blistati na svojoj berlinskoj pozornici; zbog prvoga sam sretan, a zbog ovoga drugoga veoma æalostan. − Od berlinske publike i svoje kazaliπne kuÊe oprostio sam se, teπka srca, kao Don Juan u istoimenom baletu Giorgia Madije. Nije se lako odreÊi scene dok ste u snazi i joπ æeljni novih uloga, novih koreograﬁja i svakodnevnih treninga, dakle - svega onoga πto vam se kroz godine pretvorilo u jedini naËin æivljenja… A sada, dok u Zagrebu kao ravnatelj pozorno pratim sve pokuse i nastupe svojih plesaËa, katkad se jedva uspijevam obuzdati da i sâm s njima ne zapleπem. MoguÊu frustraciju zbog vlastitog nenastupanja nastojat Êu ublaæiti pokojim ponovnim izlaskom pred zagrebaËku publiku. U travnju sam to uËinio nastupivπi u Kraljevima bogova Pascala Touzeaua. Dakako, zbog ravnateljskih obveza moji plesaËki povratci na scenu bit Êe tek izuzeci koji potvruju pravilo, jer posao baletnog solista,

baπ kao i posao baletnog ravnatelja, iziskuju cijelog Ëovjeka i sve njegovo vrijeme. U Zagreb sam se vratio da budem ravnatelj, a plesaË sam bio u Berlinu. No ni za Ëime ne æalim, jer u svakoj od svojih Ëetrnaest berlinskih sezona ostvario sam viπe od stotinu nastupa, pa mirno mogu reÊi da sam se doista naplesao. ■ Potrebna je velika snaga da se prijevremeno stavi toËka na dosadaπnju vrlo uspjeπnu karijeru i zatim krene u jednu posve novu i drugaËiju umjetniËku avanturu, ali zagrebaËkome izazovu oËito niste mogli odoljeti? − Dakako, nisam, i zato sam odmah prigrlio tu odgovornu i osjetljivu funkciju, kojoj tek moram posvema dorasti, i to u rekordno kratkome roku. Na startu, pak, najveÊim mi je jamstvom bilo profesionalno suglasje s intendanticom Dubravkom VrgoË, jer u njezin koncept razvoja srediπnje kazaliπne kuÊe u Hrvatskoj otprve su se dobro uklopile moje ravnateljske ideje i nakane. Osim izvrsne suradnje s gospoom VrgoË, mnogo mi znaËi i to πto naπ baletni ansambl gorljivo podræava svjetski ugledni koreograf Milko ©paremblek, koji je u poËetku moga ravnateljskog mandata na naπu scenu postavio novu verziju svoje koreodrame Johannes Faust Passion. No u ovom trenutku, osim veÊ reËenoga, najviπe me ohrabruju polet i radiπnost mojih zagrebaËkih plesaËa, koji poËinju shvaÊati da je osobna perfekcija preduvjet za zajedniËko savrπenstvo, koje u svojoj scenskoj ﬁnalizaciji ne bi smjelo imati nijednu slabu toËku. Stoga od prvoga dana uporno inzistiram na odræavanju primjerene psihoﬁziËke kondicije, na samodisciplini i zajedniËkoj disciplini, na dostatnome broju treninga i nastupa, te na maksimalnoj usredotoËenosti svakog pojedinca kao i cijelog kolektiva. Tako to mora biti, jer bez interakcije, bez posvemaπnjeg dosluha svih plesaËa i njihove kvalitativne ujednaËenosti ne mogu se dogoditi vrhunske plesne predstave. »ar i neprolaznu ljepotu baletnih ansambl-predstava tvori suglasje nebrojenih, pomno izbruπenih detalja. Æelio bih da poslije isteka moga ravnateljskog mandata zagrebaËki balet dosegne izvedbenu razinu ponajboljih plesnih kompanija Europe. Iako sam u prognozama veoma oprezan, drago mi je πto veÊ sada mogu ustvrditi kako u tome smjeru osjetno napredujemo: malim, pomno promiπljenim, koreografski sve raznolikijim, ali i sve sigurnijim koracima. Moja strategija razvoja ZagrebaËkog baleta najtoËnije bi se mogla opisati Michelangelovom lucidnom reËenicom: Male stvari tvore savrπenstvo, a savrπenstvo je velika stvar. ■ U samo pola godine ravnateljskog mandata ostvarili ste dvije nove produkcije:

Kraljeve bogova Pascala Touzeaua i Bajaderu Ludwiga Minkusa. Koje premijere kanite ostvariti u nastupajuÊoj sezoni? − Prvi premijerni naslov bit Êe koreodrama Modrobradi, autorski projekt Staπe Zurovca. Iz riznice novijih klasiËnih baleta odabrali smo Romea i Juliju Sergeja Prokofjeva u koreograﬁji Patricea Barta, a naπa treÊa premijera bit Êe balet Petar Pan Brune Bjelinskog u koreograﬁji Giorgia Madije. Odabirom repertoara i autora nastojat Êemo na naπoj sceni njegovati razliËite stilove i koreografske izriËaje, pri Ëemu u naπim autorskim timovima æelimo okupljati i istaknute profesionalce iz inozemstva. Kadrovska internacionalizacija naπe kreativne i izvoaËke ekipe trebala bi odraæavati kozmopolitizam svjetske kazaliπne scene i ujedno biti najsigurnijom zaπtitom od samoizolacijske uËmalosti. Svoju zavidnu kvalitetu ZagrebaËki balet uvelike moæe temeljiti na tome što znatan dio naπeg ansambla tvore plesaËi iz inozemstva, koji su se u Zagrebu skrasili u prvom redu voeni æeljom da se razvijaju i dokazuju na kazaliπnoj sceni, a tek zatim i iz egzistencijalnih razloga. Oni veoma poticajno djeluju na svoje hrvatske kolege. Plesni je vokabular univerzalno razumljiv, baπ kao i govor glazbe; te dvije umjetnosti najneposrednije uspostavljaju stvaralaËko zajedniπtvo, koje ne trpi prebrojavanje krvnih zrnaca i kojemu uvijek pogoduje nova i svjeæa krv. ■ Kako to da ste se kao djeËak odluËili upisati baπ u baletnu πkolu? − OdluËila je moja majka, kojoj se nije ostvarila æivotna æelja da postane balerina. Njezina siromaπna obitelj æivjela je na selu, pa skupo plesno πkolovanje i Ëesta putovanja u udaljeni Zagreb nisu dolazili u obzir. Otada je maπtala o tome da rodi djevojËicu i upiπe je u baletnu πkolu. No kada je, umjesto buduÊe balerine, na svijet doπao moj stariji brat, mama je Ëvrsto odluËila da Êe svoje drugo dijete, ma kojeg spola da bude, pridobiti za klasiËni balet. A onda sam roen ja, kojemu je æivotni put unaprijed bio planiran, ha, ha!… Otac se nije bunio, brat se nije tome Ëudio, pa smo mama i ja - koraËiÊ po koraËiÊ - krenuli u moju neizvjesnu plesnu buduÊnost… I za nju je to bilo veoma naporno, jer do baletne πkole, udaljene petnaestak kilometara, morali smo putovali zajedno; bio sam premalen da bi me mogla pustiti samoga. Na nastavu u Srednju baletnu πkolu viπe me nije morala pratiti, ali i nadalje je ostala prisutna u svemu. Mama mi je, sve do prerane smrti, uvijek bila najveÊi oslonac i najbolji mentalni trener. NauËila me koliko su vaæni snaga volje, pravi rad i stalno pobjeivanje samoga sebe. Mnoge se majke uvelike ærtvuju za svoju nadarenu djecu, ali moja je majka bila gotovo sudbinski

predodreena da svome djetetu - Ëak i svojim ugroæenim zdravljem - osigura buduÊnost. Znam da vam sad niπta nije jasno, ali pojasnit Êu… Kad sam zavrπio Srednju baletnu πkolu u Zagrebu, na obiteljskom smo vijeÊanju spoznali da nikako ne moæemo ﬁnancirati moj studij u Münchenu. I, premda sam poloæio prijamni ispit, na sve smo morali staviti toËku. Nedugo nakon toga, moji roditelji i brat otputovali su automobilom na vikend u Zadar, a ja sam zbog πkolskih obaveza ostao u Zagrebu. No zbog iznenadnog pogorπanja bakina zdravlja isti su se dan morali vratiti u Zagreb. Na povratku, negdje kod Karlovca, vozilo iz suprotnog smjera uletjelo je u πkare, a oni su se, pokuπavajuÊi izbjeÊi frontalni sudar, s litice survali u provaliju. Majka je zadobila teπke ozljede i pala u komu, ali nekim je Ëudom preæivjela. Dugo se oporavljala… I u svim tim groznim, neopisivim mukama ona je doslovce procvala od sreÊe kad joj je isplaÊeno osiguranje, koje je, nimalo ne dvojeÊi, u cijelosti odluËila uloæiti u moj studij. U München su me dopratili mama i brat: kupili su mi jastuk, deku, mali radioprijamnik i otpratili me u internat. I tako sam ja u dobi od petnaest godina, zelen iza uπiju, kako se to veÊ kaæe, krenuo u samostalni æivot. No mamino osiguranje moglo je doteÊi tek za polovicu mog studija, a i to samo ako budem krajnje πtedljiv. Godinu i pol dana stalno sam morao stiskati zube, kako na napornim treninzima, tako i sve ostalo vrijeme. Studij sam nastavio zasluæivπi njemaËku stipendiju, a nekoliko mjeseci prije diplomskog ispita poËeo sam veÊ dobivati i svoje prve honorare u Bavarskom dræavom baletu. Bez moje neslomljive majke, bez njezine voljne ærtve i - πto je doista straπno - bez njezine prometne nesreÊe, ja sigurno ne bih bio ovo πto danas jesam. »im se malo oporavila, mama je zduπno nastavila pratiti moje πkolovanje, a zatim i profesionalnu karijeru, a onda se u proljeÊe 2008. razboljela i saznala da joj se bliæi neumitni kraj. S boleπÊu se hrabro nosila punih godinu dana, a ja sam cijelo to vrijeme u Berlinu patio od kroniËne nesanice: dane sam provodio na treninzima, veËeri na predstavama, a gotovo cijele noÊi budan uz telefon, iπËekujuÊi straπnu vijest… Znao sam istinu od prvog dana, jer Ëim je saznala svoju konaËnu dijagnozu, mama mi je nasamo i nevjerojatno smireno rekla: Sine, ne dopusti da te u æivotu ikad iπta slomi, pa tako ni ovo. Kad ti se u æivotu jedna vrata zatvore, sigurno Êe se otvoriti neka druga!… Nekoliko dana nakon maminoga pogreba, u Berlinu sam − u potpunome bunilu i πoku − otplesao ulogu Princa na premijeri Snjeguljice Angelina Preljocaja. Dobio sam dvadesetominutne ovacije, najduæe u cijeloj mojoj karijeri.

I dok sam, po ne znam koji put, izlazio pred zastor na poklon, najednom sam shvatio: taj beskrajni pljesak zapravo je zasluæila moja neslomljiva mama… ■ Zaπto ste, kao petnaestogodiπnjak, odluËili studirati baπ u Münchenu? − Studij u Münchenu upisao sam ujesen 1997., a za to je uvelike zasluæan Dinko BogdaniÊ, koji je baπ tada bio profesor na tamoπnjoj Baletnoj akademiji. Te tri studentske godine protekle su u danonoÊnom uËenju, vjeæbanju i samopropitivanju. Nisam joπ bio navršio ni osamnaestu kad sam poËeo nastupati u predstavama Bavarskoga dræavnog baleta, u kojemu mi je odmah ponuen stalni angaæman, uz uvjet da ga potpiπem i prije nego što zavrπim studij. I tako sam u prvi profesionalni angaæman stupio 1. sijeËnja 2000., a u lipnju iste godine diplomirao na Baletnoj akademiji, gdje su moji profesori bili svjetski ugledni pedagozi Heinz Manniegel i Alexander Prokoﬁev. ■ Zaπto ste nakon samo jedne sezone napustili München i zaputili se Berlin? − Premda mi je Münchenu poËelo vrlo dobro, nisam se æelio zauvijek utaboriti na jednome mjestu. Svoje potencijale æelio sam iskuπati u Berlinskome dræavnom baletu, vodeÊoj njemaËkoj plesnoj kompaniji. Iako sam gostovao diljem svijeta, preteæit dio moje plesaËke karijere tvori tih Ëetrnaest veoma dinamiËnih sezona provedenih na matiËnoj sceni u Berlinu. U neopisivo jakoj konkurenciji, πto je na mene djelovalo vrlo poticajno, ondje sam iz sezone u sezonu temeljito sazrijevao i kontinuirano napredovao. U berlinskim predstavama partneri su mi bili odreda vrhunski plesaËi, tamoπnjim sjajnim orkestrom ravnali su vrsni dirigenti, i − πto mi je uvijek bilo najvaænije, ondje sam, katkad i koautorski, suraivao s najboljim koreografima danaπnjice kao πto su: Jir˘ í Kylián, Nacho Duato, Hans van Manen, William Forsythe, Giorgio Madia, pa i moj berlinski ravnatelj Vladimir Malakhov… Od brojnih i odreda vrhunskih koreografa CROATIA AIRLINES

s kojima sam suraivao, na moj umjetniËki razvoj odluËujuÊe su djelovala trojica istinskih Ëarobnjaka − Patrice Bart, Angelin Preljocaj i Mauro Bigonzetti. Oni su izvukli moj plesaËki maksimum i omoguÊili mi da budem Ëak i sukreatorom svojih uloga. Nikad nisam toËno izbrojio svoje berlinske uloge, od kojih kao apsolutno najdraæe mogu izdvojiti Princa u Preljocajevoj Snjeguljici, Tibalda u Romeu i Juliji Johna Crankoa, Smrt u Peer Gyntu Heinza Spoerlija, Bigonzettijeva Caravaggia, te Rothbarta u Labuem jezeru i Drosselmeyera u Oraπaru, koje sam pak plesao u koreograﬁji Patricea Barta. ■ Kako ste se, iz veËeri u veËer, na sceni nosili s tremom, jeste li je uopÊe imali? − Uvijek sam imao tremu, ali baπ uvijek, na svakoj predstavi. Tremu nemaju samo ravnoduπni rutineri, koji, po mome sudu, i nisu pravi umjetnici. Trema je neizbjeæna i dobrodoπla, jer da ona kojim sluËajem zauvijek nestane, plesni bi se umjetnici od æivih ljudi na sceni pretvorili tek u precizno programirane robote. Ta neopisiva strepnja koja nas prati na svakom nastupu zapravo je veoma produktivna, jer ona nam trenutaËno podiæe adrenalin i tjera da u svakome trenutku dajemo sve od sebe. Nasuprot tomu, ako u predstavu uemo s arogancijom i bahatom samouvjerenoπÊu, neizbjeæno Êe nam se dogoditi deseci sitnih tehniËkih pogreπaka, prosklizavanja, mimiËkih nesuvislosti itd. I zato svaki pravi plesaË, Ëak i na svojoj tisuÊitoj predstavi − kao da mu je prva − biva podjednako proæet i ushitom i tremom. No ako s vremenom steknete pogubni imunitet i rutinerski otupite na tremu, onda je sigurno tek jedno: doπlo je vrijeme za konaËan odlazak. Osrednjosti nema mjesta na podruËjima izvrsnosti.

s a soloist with the German State Ballet in Berlin, he made guest appearances in Switzerland, Spain, Russia, Japan, China, Thailand, Taiwan, India and elsewhere, while invitations for solo performances took him to Poland, Japan, the prestigious Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow as well as to his native Zagreb. In 2009, the Berlin theatrological community nominated him for an award, given annually to the most promising artist in the opera/drama/ballet category. In 2010, the German television channel, ZDF, produced a documentary about his artistic career and stage achievements. The film was entitled, Der Tänzer, and shown as part of the Die Theatermacher series. In spite all of these successes and the fact that he was at the peak of his artistic power and artistic maturity, Leonard Jakovina decided to come back to Zagreb towards the end of 2014, and 10

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assume the ballet director position at the Croatian National Theatre. He bid a triumphant farewell to his Berlin audience playing the role of Don Juan at the world premiere of the ballet production of the same name, by world-renowned Italian Choreographer, Giorgio Madia. Over the past six months, he has invested his experience, knowledge and huge energy into the soloists and the entire ensemble cast of the Zagreb Ballet. By taking quick and conﬁdent steps, he has elevated their levels of performance so that they are on par with European performance standards. ■ Mr. Jakovina, at the peak of your career, you decided to leave Berlin and assume a position as the director of the Zagreb Ballet?!... Milko ©paremblek, a world renown choreographer from Zagreb, who directed several important ballet companies himself, commented on your professional turning point in the following way: A very competent artist has come to lead the Zagreb Ballet. As a splendid soloist, he had a few more good years left on the Berlin scene. The former makes me happy, the latter very sad. - I bid farewell to my Berlin audience and my theatre with a heavy heart, as Don Juan in the ballet production, Don Juan, by Giorgio Madia. It is not easy to give up your stage career, while you are still physically at the top of your game and yearning for new roles, new choreographies and daily training - for all those things which have become your only way of life over the years. And now, in Zagreb, wearing my ballet director’s hat, I supervise all my dancers’ rehearsals and performances very carefully and sometimes, I can hardly restrain myself from joining in. I try to offset the frustration of not being able to perform by occasionally making appearances in front of Zagreb audiences. I did it already in April, when I appeared in Pascal Touzeau’s, Kings of Gods. Cleary, due to my commitments as director, my dancing comebacks will be exceptions to the rule, because the job of a ballet soloist, just like the job of a ballet director, demands a hundred

per cent commitment. I returned to Zagreb to be director and I was a dancer in Berlin! But I have no regrets, because I had over hundred performaces during each of fourteen seasons I spent in Berlin; so, I can say with confidence that I've done my fair share of dancing! ■ It takes a lot of determination to put an end to a very successful career and embark on a new and different artistic adventure. Obviously, the challenge of starting something new in Zagreb was too big to resist? - Of course it was, and that is why I immediately embraced this demanding and sensitive position. I still have to grow to fulfil the role and I have to do it in record time! At the very beginning, coming to a professional understanding with General Manager, Dubravka VrgoË, was a huge determining factor for success because her concept of development for the central theatre house in Croatia immediately coincided with my directing ideas and intentions. Apart from working together well with Ms. VrgoË, I find it very important that our ballet troupe is fervently supported by world renowned Choreographer, Milko ©paremblek. At the very beginning of my mandate as director, he prepared a new version of his choreodrama, Johannes Faust Passion, to be performed on our scene. At this moment, besides everything else I have mentioned, I am particularly encouraged by the enthusiasm and diligence of my dancers who have started to understand that personal perfection is a prerequisite for group perfection. There should not be a single weak point in what they do on that stage. That is why from day one, I have insisted on maintaining the proper mental and physical conditioning, on self-discipline and joint discipline, on a sufficient number of rehearsals and performances and on a maximum focus on every individual as well as on the entire troupe. This is how things should be because top class dance performances cannot happen without interaction, without complete harmony among all the dancers and their qualitative uniformity; the charm and

Trema je neizbjeæna i dobrodoπla. Da trema nestane, plesni bi se umjetnici pretvorili tek u precizno programirane robote. Osrednjosti nema mjesta na podruËjima izvrsnosti. Stage fright is unavoidable and something to be welcomed. If it were to disappear forever, dance artists would transform into programmed robots. There is no room for mediocrity in areas of excellence.

eternal beauty of team ballet performances are due to the harmony of innumerable, carefully planned details. At the end of my mandate as director, I would like to see the Zagreb Ballet reach a level of performance equal to that of the best ballet companies in Europe. Although I am very cautious when it comes to making predictions, I am happy that I can say already now, that we have made considerable progress in that direction by taking small, well thought out, increasingly varied and also increasingly confident choreography steps. My strategy for the development of the Zagreb Ballet could be best described by Michelangelo’s lucid statement: Trifles make perfection and perfection is no trifle. ■ During only half a year of your mandate as director, you realized two new productions: Kings of Gods, by Pascal Touzeau, and La Bayadere, by Ludwig Minkus. What premieres are in the pipeline for the upcoming season? - The first premiere will be the choreodrama, Bluebeard, by Staπa Zurovac. From a treasure trove of newer classical ballets, we have chosen Patrice Bart’s choreography of Romeo and Juliette, by Sergei Prokofiev, while our third premiere will be Peter Pan, by Bruno Bjelinski and Giorgio Madia as choreographer. By carefully choosing our repertoire and individual artists, we will try to foster different styles and choreographic expressions on stage. In keeping with that goal, we would like to commission prominent foreign professionals to join our team of artists. Internationalization of our creative and performing teams should reflect the cosmopolitanism of the world theatre stage and at the same time, shield us from complacency and self isolation. The Zagreb Ballet owes a lot of its enviable quality to the fact that a number of our ensemble members are foreign dancers who have settled in Zagreb primarily because of the desire to develop and prove their mettle on the theatre stage, and only secondly, for material reasons. Their influence on Croatian dancers is very motivating! The vocabulary of dance is a universally understood language, just like the language of music. These two arts are the most instrumental in establishing direct creative unity, which does not support intolerance, and which always benefits from fresh blood! ■ How did you decide to enrol in ballet school as a young boy? - It was my mother who made that decision. Her own childhood dream to become a ballerina had fallen through. Her family was poor and lived in a village, so expensive training and frequent travels to distant Zagreb were out of the question. Ever since then, her fondest wish was to have a daughter and enrol her in ballet school. However, when instead of a future ballerina, she gave birth to my older brother, my mother made a firm resolution that she would convince her second child, regardless of sex, to embrace classical ballet. And then I was born, and my life path had already been planned out, ha-ha! My father had nothing against it; my brother did not care one way or the other, so my mother and I, one ballet step after another, embarked on the road to my uncertain dance future... It was not easy for her either. Our home was about 15 kilometres away from the ballet school, and we had to go there together. I was too young to be allowed to get there myself. She did not have to accompany me to classes at the secondary ballet school, but she remained hands-on CROATIA AIRLINES

in everything I did. The whole time, until her premature death, my mother was my biggest support and my best mental coach. She taught me the importance of willpower, hard work and how to overcome my own insecurities. Many mothers make huge sacriﬁces for their talented children, but my mother had been almost predestined to ensure a future for her child, even sacriﬁcing her health for it. I see you do not understand what I am saying, but let me explain... When I graduated from the secondary ballet school in Zagreb, we held a family caucus and realized we had no money for my ballet studies in Munich, although I had already passed the entrance exam. We had no choice but to put an end to our plans. Shortly after that, my parents and my brother drove for a weekend break to Zadar; I didn’t go because I had to stay in Zagreb to complete some school assignments. However, my grandmother’s health deteriorated suddenly and they had to return to Zagreb the same day. On the way back, somewhere near Karlovac, a car, dangerously overtaking another car in the lane they were driving in, came towards them. In order to avoid a head-on collision, they swerved and fell into the ditch. My mother sustained serious injuries and went into a coma, but miraculously survived. She took a long time to recover from the accident… Amidst all the trouble and suffering, she literally blossomed when she received the insurance money. Without as much as batting an eyelash, she decided to invest it all in my ballet training. My mother and my brother accompanied me to Munich! They bought me a pillow, a blanket, a small radio and they took me to the dormitory. And so, at the tender age of 15, a greenhorn as it were, I started an independent life. However, my mother’s insurance money could only cover half my tuition fees, and that included me being extremely frugal. For a year and a half, I had to bite the bullet and work extremely hard, both 12

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during strenuous training sessions as well as at other times. I continued my studies earning a German scholarship, and a few months before graduation, I started earning my first per diems in the Bavarian State Ballet. Without my unbreakable mother, without her willing sacrifice and terrible as it is to say, without her traffic accident, I certainly would not be what I am today! As soon as she recovered a little, my mother continued to invest all of her time and energy into following my education and then, my professional career. Then, in the spring of 2008, she learned that she was terminally ill. She coped with her illness courageously for a whole year. The whole time I was in Berlin, I suffered chronic insomnia, spent my days in training, performed in the evenings and then, night after night, stayed up waiting by the phone, anticipating a call with the terrible news... I knew the truth from day one. As soon as my mother learned about her final diagnosis, she talked to me in private and she told me, in an incredibly calm voice: Son, do not allow anything in your life to break you, including this! When one door closes in life, another one is bound to open! A few days after my mother’s funeral, I danced the role of the Prince at the premiere of Angelin Preljocaj’s, Snowhite, in complete delirium and shock. The standing ovation I received after that lasted twenty minutes, the longest in my entire career! And when I returned to the stage for the umpteenth time for the final curtain call, I suddenly realized that the endless applause was actually for my unbreakable mother. ■ How come that as a fifteen-year-old boy you decided to study in Munich of all places? - I enrolled at a dance school in Munich in autumn 1997. A lot of credit for that goes to Mr. Dinko BogdaniÊ, who was teaching at the Munich Ballet Academy at the time. I spent those three years as a student constantly studying, practising and evaluating myself. I was not even 18 yet when I started performing at the Bavarian State Ballet where I was immediately offered a permanent contract on condition that I sign it before I graduated. Thus, I started my first professional engagement on January 1st 2000, and in June of that same year, I graduated from the Munich Ballet Academy where my professors were globally renowned pedagogues, two of whom were Heinz Manniegel and Alexander Prokofiev. ■ How come that after only one season, you left Munich and headed for Berlin? - Although my professional career in Munich took off running, I did not wish to set down any roots. I wanted to put my potential to the

test at the Berlin State Ballet, the leading German dance company. Although I made guest appearances all over the world, most of my dance career coincided with those fourteen very dynamic seasons on the stage of my theatre house in Berlin. The competition was very fierce and had a very motivating effect on me. That is where I grew the most and made continuous progress from one season to the next. In Berlin, all my partners were top dancers; the in-house orchestra was conducted by the best conductors; and most importantly, that is where I was able to work as a coauthor with the best choreographers of today, including Jir˘ í Kylián, Nacho Duato, Hans van Manen, William Forsythe, Giorgio Madia, and Berlin Director, Vladimir Malakhov… Among the numerous top choreographers I’ve worked with, the three veritable wizards, Patrice Bart, Angelin Preljocaj and Mauro Bigonzetti played a key role in my artistic development. They were the ones who recognized my dancing potential and brought it to the forefront by allowing me to co-create my own roles. I’ve never actually counted the number of roles I had in Berlin, but my absolute favourites would be the Prince in Preljocaj’s Snowhite, Tibaldo in John Cranko’s Romeo and Juliette, Death in Heinz Spoerli’s Peer Gynt, Bigonzetti’s Caravaggio, Rothbarta in Swan Lake, and Drosselmeyer in Nutcracker, in Patrice Bart’s choreography. ■ Mr. Jakovina, how did you cope with stage fright every evening? Did you have it at all? - I always have stage fright, always, before every show. Only indifferent routine dancers do not have stage fright. In my opinion, they are not true artists at all. Stage fright is unavoidable and something to be welcomed. If it were to disappear forever, dance artists would stop being living human beings; instead, on stage, they would transform into programmed robots. The indescribable nervous tension that accompanies every performance is actually very productive because it gives us an instantaneous adrenaline rush and makes us give it our all at every moment. If, however, we start off a show with a feeling of arrogant self-confidence, we are in for an evening of many technical errors, missteps, falls, mimic inconsistencies, etc. That is why every true dancer starts his thousandth show off as if it were his first, with an equal feeling of enthusiasm and stage fright. If over the years, you develop a lethal immunity and become unaffected by stage fright, only one thing is certain: the time has come for your final curtain! There is no room for mediocrity in areas of excellence.

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The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. Nov-Ëana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine. Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the nor th-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. The re are 1185 islands, islets and re efs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The of ﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezer vate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, 14

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Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Nor thern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, cer tain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reser ves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih ra zdoblja, zbog bur nih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karak teriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog ra zdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karak teristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je sred njoe uropskoga kultur nog kruga i isti Ëe se mnogim prapovijesnim nala zima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitek turom iz ra zdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Diokle cijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stolje Êa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufra zijeva ba zilika u Pore Ëu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of dif ferent cultures. Its coast is characterized by the influences of Me diter ranean culture, nu me ro us an ci ent re ma ins, mo nu ments of the Ro man era and ear ly Mid dle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of di stin cti ve Me di ter ra ne an ur ban enti ti es that have been preser ved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, for tre sses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibe nik.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2014. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 13,128.416 turista, od kojih je stranih 10,948.366. Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima 66,483.948 noÊenja. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti… Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluau to ce sta Hrvatska je bliæa ne go ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko... Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has be en a hit de stination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international exper ts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded about 13.13 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2014, of whom around 10.95 million were foreign tourists. Tourists realized 66,483,948 overnight stays. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima − 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac − 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima.

Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Ku na (kn). In cir cu la ti on are ban knotes in Ku na and co ins in Ku na and Li pa (lp) ∑ one hun dredth of a Ku na. The ban knotes are issu ed in the fol lo wing de no mi na ti ons: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku na, whi le the de no mi na ti on struc tu re of the co ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li pa (100 Li pa = 1 Ku na). Pay men ts can be made by cre dit card (Di ners, Vi sa, Ame ri can Ex pre ss, Eu ro card and Ma stercard), as well as eu ro-chec ks. Ca sh can be wit hdrawn from AT Ms.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage CROATIA AIRLINES

MUZEJI MUSEUMS

Tu negdje, izmeu stvarnoga i zamiπljenoga, izmeu æive materije i njezina privida, prostor je Muzeja iluzija. Taj nevelik i novootvoreni muzej jedan je od primjera kako dobra ideja i bez golemih ulaganja moæe biti okrunjena uspjehom. Uostalom, kaæu da su iluzionisti jedina poπtena profesija. ObeÊaju vam da Êe vas prevariti i onda vas prevare. Somewhere between reality and imagination, between the material and its mirage room, there’s a Museum of Illusions. This newly opened museum is one example of a good idea which became a success without much investment. As they say, being an illusionist is the only honest profession. They promise to trick you, and then, they do. 16

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Piπe/By Dubravka Belas Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir Fabijanić

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to ako je sve iluzija i ako zapravo niπta ne postoji? U tom sam sluËaju platio previπe za svoj auto… rekao je Woody Allen, svojim notornim humorom razgraujuÊi sve πto bismo mogli shvatiti previπe ozbiljno. Ali Einstein je sasvim ozbiljno tvrdio da je stvarnost puka iluzija, iako vrlo uporna. Doista, πto bismo bili bez iluzija? Bez ljepote nestalnosti, varljivosti, bez privida, bez odmaka od Ëvrstih, bezbojnih Ëinjenica. Bismo li svijetom hodali izgubljeni i ukoËeni poput robota, liπeni ono malo bajkovitog melema maπte koji zaglauje naπe preoπtre rubove i, poput korektivne πminke, maskira naπe æivotne ogrebotine. Moæemo li doista dalje bez ZvonËice, one siÊuπne Ëarobnice koja u stopu prati Petra Pana, prosipajuÊi usput vilinski prah po svima koji ne vjeruju da mogu letjeti, pa onaj tko ne bude dotaknut iskriËavom praπinom, ostane zauvijek ukopan u tlo i nikad se ne izdigne nad sivom obiËnoπÊu. Suha deﬁnicija iluzije bila bi da je rijeË o iskrivljenoj percepciji stvarnoga izvanjskog podraæaja, pogreπnom prepoznavanju primljene informacije, zbog vlastitih osjetilnih manjkavosti, kakva je, primjerice, tromost oka. Iluzija je i netoËna analiza podataka koje daju osjetila i onda kad to uËine bez ikakve pogreπke, pa ih naπ mozak, zbog predrasuda ili tko zna joπ Ëega, pogrešno interpretira, i ostavi nas zbunjene i zavarane. I zato što smo takvi, nesavrπeni, ne postoji jedinstvena slika stvarnosti, i ne treba nam Stephen Hawking da nam to otkrije. Granica izmeu vanjskoga svijeta i naπe svijesti, svidjelo se to nama ili ne, zamagljena je. I upravo tu negdje, izmeu stvarnoga i zamiπljenoga, izmeu æive materije i njezinog privida, prostor je Muzeja iluzija. Taj nevelik i novootvoreni muzej jedan je od primjera kako dobra ideja i bez golemih ulaganja moæe biti okrunjena uspjehom. Uspjeπan je onaj muzej koji posjeÊuju, a posjetitelja ovome, smjeπtenome u jednoj od onih starih iliËkih zgrada, ne nedostaje. Bonus je prostrana veæa i dovoljno mjesta za sve posjetitelje koji Ëekaju na ulaz, pa se veÊ odoka, ako i to nije samo joπ jedna iluzija, moæe vidjeti da je posrijedi najposjeÊeniji muzej u gradu. Sedamdesetak izloæaka Muzeja iluzija dio su svjetske iluzijske baπtine, neki od eksponata pristigli su iz SAD-a, Austrije, Engleske ili Tajlanda, neki su standardni i moæda ste ih negdje veÊ vidjeli, no svi Êe vas nepogreπivo podsjetiti na magiju i magiËarske trikove. Uostalom, kaæu da su iluzionisti jedina poπtena profesija. ObeÊaju vam da Êe vas prevariti i onda vas prevare. Ali, kao πto svaki poπteni magiËar raËuna na nesavrπenost vaπe percepcije, tako je i u ovome nesvakidaπnjem muzeju. Magija i Ëarolija ne postoje. MoguÊe je da se neπto

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doima poput Ëarolije, a u osnovi je gola ﬁzika, optika, biologija, matematika ili psihologija. Posjetitelji Muzeja iluzija, sreÊom, neÊe ponoviti nesretnu sudbinu gospodina Kvadrata, glavnog lika Ëesto citiranog Abbotovog romana Ploπnozemska. On se, u strogo reguliranome druπtvu pravilnih geometrijskih likova, jednoga dana sretne s Kuglom, biÊem iz treÊe dimenzije. Kvadratov æivot i vrijednosni sustav otad se zauvijek promijene. On shvaÊa da je, ako se iz prve i druge dimenzije moæe izvesti teorija o postojanju treÊe dimenzije, izvodljiv i zakljuËak o postojanju i Ëetvrte ili pete dimenzije. Gotovo kastinsko ploπnozemsko druπtvo, dakako, odbacuje i gospodina Kvadrata i njegovo blasfemiËno evanelje te ga utamniËuje, odbijajuÊi prihvatiti sve ono πto ne moæe racionalno spoznati. I danas, viπe od sto trideset godina od prve objave Ploπnozemske, mnogi je matematiËari smatraju nadahnuÊem za prouËavanje hiperprostora, viπedimenzionalnog svijeta. Zato Êemo mi koji smo, kako kaæe Abbot, blagoslovljeni sjenom kao i svjetloπÊu, obdareni s dva oka, obogaÊeni poznavanjem perspektive i oËarani uæivanjem razliËitih boja tim opuπtenije uæivati u Muzeju iluzija. Lako se moæe dogoditi da se veÊ prvim korakom zaputimo u krivome smjeru, to jest, u posljednji Ëas u dugaËkom hodniku prepoznamo tek strateπki postavljeno zrcalo. Uistinu, niπta ovdje nije onakvim kakvim se Ëini. Kao i u svakome muzeju, i u ovome se moæe mnogo nauËiti, ali ni u jednome drugom to neÊe biti na ovako zabavan naËin. Samo ovdje moæete priÊi stolu i pokuπati dohvatiti predmet koji se na njemu nalazi, shvativπi naposljetku da on u stvarnosti ne postoji i da je to πto pokuπavate dotaknuti samo uvjerljiv privid. Jedna je od atrakcija muzeja Amesova soba, nazvana prema svom izumitelju Adelbertu Amesu, koji ju je prvi i konstruirao. Soba je nepravilnoga trapezoidnog oblika, nagnutog poda i stropa, iako se, gledana sprijeda kroz za to oblikovan okvir, Ëini obiËnom kockastom sobom. No i to je samo optiËka varka − zbog koje je jedan kut sobe mnogo bliæi promatraËu od drugoga. Tako se osoba u bliæem kutu uveÊava do divovskih razmjera, a u drugome kutu pretvara se u patuljka. Hoda li od jednoga do drugog kuta, naoËigled se poveÊava ili smanjuje. U antigravitacijskoj sobi, kosoga poda, teturat Êete dezorijentirano kao da ste upravo siπli s vrtuljka, ma koliko se trudili da hodate normalno. Objaπnjenje je, ako vas zanima, da je disbalans u unutarnjem uhu nastao zbog kosih zidova i sobe koja je cijela pod kutom, zbog Ëega naπ mozak ne uspijeva ispraviti sliku. Moæda Êe vam se najviπe svidjeti zaËudni hologrami koji se projiciraju ispred holografske ploËe, pa se iz ploπnih slika pred vama, kao Ëarolijom, pretvaraju u trodimenzionalni oblik. 20

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Tijelo djeteta ili glava starca iz njih izranjaju tako vjerni da vam se (opet!) Ëini da ih moæete dotaknuti rukom. ©uplje lice Alberta Einsteina providno je i konkavno poput unutraπnje strane karnevalske maske. Umnoæeno i osvijetljeno straga, pred vaπim se oËima neoËekivano pretvara u pravo reljefno lice; s izboËenjima na pravim mjestima, upravo ondje gdje se vaπ ispreskakani mozak sjeÊa da su bila samo udubljenja. Glava na pladnju stoliÊ je na kojemu je posluæena romantiËna veËera po ukusu samog Hanibala Lectera, s ﬁnim jedaÊim priborom i svijeÊnjacima, ali i vaπom ili glavom nekoga drugog posjetitelja, posluæenom na tanjuru. BeskonaËna soba joπ je jedna komplicirana iluzija: naizmjeniËno postavljeni paravani i zrcala u punoj visini zidova stvorit Êe iluziju beskonaËnosti. Zaljubljeni u svoj lik ovdje bi svakako mogli doÊi na svoje − umnaæajuÊi beskrajno svoj odraz iz svih moguÊih kutova. Pogledom u joπ jedan zrcalni eksponat, istinsko ogledalo, Real mirror, u kojemu su desna i lijeva strana obrnute u odnosu na obiËno zrcalo, prvi Êete se put vidjeti onako kako vas drugi vide. Naravno, ni odraz teksta koji pred njega postavite neÊe biti obrnut, nego Êete ga moÊi Ëitati na uobiËajen naËin. Kad smo veÊ kod ogledala, dvostranim, segmentiranim ogledalom moÊi Êete zamijeniti dijelove lica s nekim drugim posjetiteljem. Ondje gdje bi trebao biti vaπ nos ili usta, praznina je izmeu dvije lamele zrcala, pa Êe vaπ odraz biti dopunjen dijelovima lica osobe koja vam stoji nasuprot. Rupa bez dna joπ je jedan trik sa zrcalom, koji Êe ponovno prevariti vaπa zateËena osjetila, a posebno Êete objaπnjenje traæiti zbog vode koja levitira... Svaka je od tih iluzija utemeljena na znanosti i moæe se raπËlaniti gdje je toËno nastao kratki spoj izmeu naπeg oka i mozga. Na gornjem katu muzeja, u obrnutoj sobi, gdje biljke rastu sa stropova, nalaze se crteæi s optiËkim iluzijama − ravnim crtama koje doæivljavate ukoπenima, slike za koje Êete biti uvjereni da prate vaπe kretanje, crteæi koji se, iako nepomiËni, okreÊu prema vama, igraonice s mnogo interaktivnih prostora, naprava i igara. Upustite se u slaganje brojnih drvenih igraËaka, slagalica kojima se mlai posjetitelji najradije, zacijelo i najspretnije, zabavljaju. Pomislit Êete: to je bar lako! i biti iznenaeni kad neku takvu jednostavnu slagalicu ne uspijete sloæiti ni nakon duæeg mozganja. Te su mozgalice pravi izazov i ﬁtness za moædane vijuge. I dok se vi neoËekivano muËite pokuπavajuÊi toËno iπËitati nazive boja obojene razliËito od naziva, u pametnoj se igraonici djeca mogu natjecati i uËiti na temelju sjajnoga didaktiËkog sadræaja koncepta Dilemma igre, koje ih potiËu na

razmiπljanje, na donoπenje odluka, na razliËite pristupe problemima, a u muzejskoj trgovini moæete odabrati i one koje Êete ponijeti kuÊi na rjeπavanje. Jeste li spremni za avanturu? pozivaju nas iz muzeja i jamËe: Nudimo vam intrigantno vizualno, osjetilno i edukativno iskustvo. Muzej iluzija otvara prostor za druπtven i zabavan izlet u svijet iluzije koji oËarava sve generacije. To je savrπeno mjesto za nova iskustva i uæivanje s prijateljima ili obitelji, jedinstveno u ovom dijelu Europe. To nije samo mjesto za djecu, koja oboæavaju dolaziti, to je mjesto za roditelje, parove, djedove i bake! Provjerite πto sve nudimo, neÊete vjerovati svojim oËima… tvrde i najavljuju gostovanja holografera i psihologa koji Êe se ukljuËiti u program, organiziranje πkolica za djecu za dobru energiju, dobar duh i smijeh. A dobre energije, dobrog duha i smijeha ne nedostaje veÊ sada, jer u obilasku muzeja neÊete sresti ni jedno natmureno lice. Znate one trenutke, netko vam se u prolazu nasmijeπi, vi se nasmijeπite njemu i idete dalje bolje volje. OsjeÊaji su zarazni pa je posjet ovome muzeju preporuËljiv veÊ zbog toliko razdraganih lica koje Êete ondje sresti. A k tome smjet Êete, ma πto smjeti, bit Êete motivirani i poticani sve saËuvati, zabiljeæiti, fotografskim aparatima, mobitelima, πtogod imali pri ruci. Znanost nas, dakle, uvjerava da svemir ne postoji ako ne gledamo u njega. Uvjerava nas da, na kvantnoj razini, bilo kakva stvarnost ne postoji ako ne gledate u nju. ZnaËi li to da onda ne postoje ni naπa ograniËenja, pa smo poput djece, koja i bez zlatne praπine, mogu letjeti i postiÊi sve πto zamisle. Koja joπ i danas katkad sanjaju otvorenih oËiju, i joπ vide Ëaroliju ondje gdje drugi vide znanstveno objaπnjenje i trik… Katkad bismo moæda trebali preskoËiti tumaËenja, ne dati da nam razore iluzije, onako kako su veÊ davno mjeseËevu lipost razotkrili. Pustimo na trenutak ﬁziËare, psihologe, matematiËare, dajmo priliku pjesniku. Neka nam, za promjenu, Calderón de la Barca, koji nije htio buditi svog junaka dok sanja niti mu dati da zaspi kad je bio budan, uvjeravajuÊi ga da baπ tada sanja: ©to je æivot? Iluzija… Puste sanje, prazna sjena πto nas ovi. O, malen je dar nam dan, jer sav æivot − to je san, a san su i sami snovi.

Truly, what would we do without illusions? What would we do without the beauty of inconsistency and deceptiveness, without mirages and without removing ourselves from the dull facts? Would we roam the world lost and stiff, like robots, deprived of the fairy-tale balm of imagination which polishes our often too-rough edges, and much like make-up, covers the scars of our lives? Could we really go on without Tinkerbell, the tiny sorceress who follows Peter Pan and sprinkles her magic dust on everyone who thinks they cannot fly; those who she does not sprinkle remain stuck to the ground, ordinary and dull forever. The textbook definition of illusion would be the following: a distorted perception of a real external stimulus, a faulty understanding of the information received, a phenomenon caused by our sensory deficiencies, including the inertia of the eye. An illusion is also an incorrect analysis of the information that our senses send to our brain. Although it does its job flawlessly, due to prejudice and other factors, our brain interprets information erroneously, leaving us confused and deceived. These imperfections mean that there is no universal image of reality, and we do not need Stephen Hawking to tell us that. Whether we like it or not, the boundary between the outer world and our consciousness is blurred. Somewhere between reality and imagination, between the material and its mirage room, there’s a Museum of Illusions. This newly opened museum is one example of a good idea which became a success without much investment. A successful museum is a museum visited by many, and this one − housed in one of the old buildings on Ilica Street, certainly does not lack visitors. A spacious

lobby and plenty of room for visitors waiting to enter are a bonus because, unless this is yet another illusion, one can tell immediately that this is the most popular museum in town. Around seventy exhibits at the Museum of Illusions are part of a global illusion heritage; some come from as far away as the USA, Austria, England and Thailand. Some are fairly well known, and you may have seen them before, but all without fail are reminiscent of magic and magician shows. As they say, being an illusionist is the only honest profession. They promise to trick you, and then, they do. This unusual museum also counts on the fallability of our perceptions, much like any decent magician does. Magic and wizardry do not exist. Some things may be made to seem like magic, but in essence, all of it is pure physics,

hat if everything was an illusion and nothing really existed? If this be the case, I deﬁnitely overpaid for my carpet,… said Woody Allen whose notorious humour exposes everything one might take too seriously. Einstein, on the other hand, was quite serious when he claimed that reality was a mere illusion, albeit a very persistent one. CROATIA AIRLINES

optics, biology, mathematics or psychology. Fortunately, visitors of the Museum of Illusions will not experience the unfortunate fate of Mr. Square, the protagonist of the frequently quoted novel by Edwin Abbott − Flatland. In a strictly regulated society of perfect geometrically-shaped characters, he one day meets a sphere, a being from the third dimension. From that moment on, Square’s life and values change forever. He comes to the realization that if the ﬁrst and second dimensions form the basis for the theory of the third dimension, one could also make inferences about the existence of the fourth and ﬁfth dimensions. An almost caste-like Flatland society denounces Mr. Square and his blasphemous gospel, 22

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imprisons him and refuses to accept what it cannot rationally comprehend. Today, almost 130 years since the book was ﬁrst published, many mathematicians are still inspired by Flatland in their research of a multi-dimensional world called hyperspace. According to Abbott, those of us who are blessed with shade as well as light, who are gifted with two eyes, endowed with a knowledge of perspective, and charmed with the enjoyment of various colours will also feel more at home at the Museum of Illusions. As soon as you enter, you will very likely head the wrong way, misled by a mirror strategically placed at the end of a long corridor. Truly nothing is what it seems at this museum. Like

in any other museum, you can learn a lot here, but no other museum is quite as entertaining. In this museum, visitors approach a table and try to grab an item from it, only to realize that it does not exist, and that it is nothing but a convincing illusion. One of the museum’s attractions is the Ames Room, named after its inventor and original builder − Adelbert Ames. The room is in the shape of a trapezoid; when viewed from the front, through a specially shaped frame, it looks like an ordinary room. Of course, this is just an optical illusion; its slanted floor and ceiling place one corner of the room much closer to the viewer than the opposite one. The person in the nearest corner looks like a giant, while the person in the farthest corner looks like a dwarf. When a person walks from one corner to the other, they become visibly smaller or larger as they move. The anti-gravitational room, with a slanted floor, makes visitors disoriented, where they are inclined to wobble as if they had just come off a merry-go-round, regardless of how hard they try to walk normally. The explanation, if you are interested, is that the slanted walls and an angled room create an imbalance in the inner ear, which in turn, prevents the brain from correcting the image. You might prefer the amazing holograms, projected in front of a holographic board, which turn the two-dimensional images in front of you into three-dimensional ones, as if by magic. The body of a baby or the head of an old man appear so vividly that they once again make you think you can touch them. Albert Einstein’s hollow face is see-through and concave like the inside of a carnival mask. Multiplied and backlit, it unexpectedly turns into a real face, with all of the contours in the correct places, where your tortured brain previously perceived nothing but dimples. Head on a platter is a table featuring a romantic dinner for Hannibal Lecter, with fine cutlery and candle-holders, as well as visitors’ heads served on a platter. The infinite room is another complicated illusion: intertwined screens and mirrors as high as the walls create an illusion of infinity. Visitors who like to see themselves in a mirror will particularly enjoy this exhibit because their reflection is multiplied to infinity from all angles. Another mirror exhibit − the Real Mirror, with the right and left sides inverted as opposed to a regular mirror, means visitors will have the opportunity to see themselves for the first time the way others see them. Of course, any text placed in front will also be visible normally, not mirrored. Speaking of mirrors, a segmented two-way mirror will enable visitors to exchange faces

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with each other. There is a void between the two lamellae of the mirror where one’s nose or mouth should be, so one visitor’s reflection will be complemented with the parts of the face of the person standing opposite him or her. The Bottomless Hole is yet another mirror trick that will cheat your senses, while you look for explanations about levitating water… Each of the aforementioned illusions are rooted in science, and science can provide a precise definition as to where a short-circuit between our eyes and brain occurs. The upper floor of the museum, featuring a reverse room, where plants grow from the ceiling, also displays drawings depicting optical illusions − straight lines that seem 24

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slanted, paintings which seem to follow visitors’ movements, drawings which turn towards visitors although they are immobile, as well as play-areas with interactive features, devices and games. Join the youngest visitors whose preferred pastime is the construction of various wooden toys and puzzles. You might think it is easy, but you'll have another thing coming when you realize that you cannot put a simple puzzle together even after quite some thought. These brain-games can be a real challenge and training for the brain cells. While most visitors will unexpectedly struggle to correctly read out the names of colours printed in a colour not denoted by the name, children can compete and learn at the smart play-area

thanks to the excellent, didactic concepts of Dilemma games, which make them think, encourage them to make decisions and help them choose different approaches to solving problems. The museum shop features games, puzzles and brain-teasers that visitors can take home to solve. The museum's catchphrase is: are you ready for an adventure? It guarantees an intriguing visual, sensory and educational experience. The Museum of Illusions opens the door for an entertaining journey into the world of illusions, which will enchant all generations alike. It is an ideal place for new experiences, and fun with friends or family, unique in this part of Europe. It is not only a museum for kids, who love to visit, but also for parents, couples, grandparents… Check out what is on offer and you will not believe your eyes. The museum also boasts guest appearances from holographers and psychologists, who will partake in the programme, as well as kids’ classes for good energy, spirit and laughter. There is already an abundance of good energy, spirit and laughter, as there is never a single gloomy face in the museum. It is like one of those moments a passer-by smiles at you; you smile back and carry on in a better mood. Feelings are contagious, so a visit to this museum is recommended because of the many smiling faces you will encounter there. The museum not only allows, but encourages visitors to take pictures and videos with any sort of equipment you have on hand. Science is trying to convince us that space does not exist unless we look into it. At the quantum level, reality does not exist if you are not looking for it. Does that mean that our limitations do not exist either, so we are like children who can ﬂy even without the help of magic-dust, and achieve whatever we imagine? Children can still dream with their eyes open, and still see the magic where others look for scientiﬁc explanations… Perhaps we should sometimes skip interpretations, not allow them to destroy illusions, like the way the moon’s beauty was unmasked long ago. Let us forget for a moment about physicists, psychologists, mathematicians, and let us give the poet a chance. Let Calderón de la Barca be our guide for a change; he did not want to wake up his hero while he was dreaming, nor did he allow him to fall asleep when he was awake telling him that he was actually dreaming: What is life? A frenzy extreme, a shadow of things that seem; and the greatest good is but small, that all life is a dream to all, and that dreams themselves are a dream.

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA

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Piπe/By Anika Rešetar Drvar

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir Fabijanić

ako su moÊ i veliki utjecaj aristokracije na politiËki, gospodarski i kulturni æivot Hrvatske nestali s krajem Prvoga svjetskog rata, o velikom znaËenju pojedinih velikaπkih obitelji svjedoËe i danas njihovi dvorci, perivoji i ljetnikovci. Potomci tih obitelji izumrli su ili su davno napustili Hrvatsku, no njihov se doprinos joπ i danas spominje i prouËava. Tako je i u Jastrebarskom i cijelom jaskanskom kraju gdje su najveÊi doprinos stoljeÊima davali pripadnici obitelji Erdödy. Vidljiv je trag dvorac

ENJOY JASTREBARSKO! BuduÊi da su Jastrebarsko i jaskanski kraj vrlo su blizu Zagrebu (tridesetak kilometara udaljenosti), a æivot teËe drugaËijim, sporijim ritmom bez æurbe i guæve, ne Ëudi što broj posjetitelja stalno raste. Za one koji i u slobodno vrijeme æele æivjeti uzbudljivo, preporuËujemo paraglajding s JapetiÊa i Pleπivice, motokros stazu u Mladini, a za ljubitelje mirnijih rekreativnih vrsta ureene su biciklistiËke, planinarske i pjeπaËke staze, na kojima se moæete opustiti i neometano uæivati u prirodi. Although Jastrebarsko and the Jaska region are very close to Zagreb (some thirty kilometres away), they offer a very different lifestyle, which is why the number of visitors attracted to the slow, hustle and bustle free rhythm, is constantly on the rise. For those who like to live dangerously in their free time, there are paragliding opportunities on JapetiÊ and Pleπivica and motorcycle racing in Mladina. For those who prefer more leisurely recreational pursuits, there are cycling, mountaineering and trekking routes where visitors can relax and enjoy the area surrounded by peace and quiet. CROATIA AIRLINES

koji se nalazi u srediπtu Jastrebarskog, o kojemu se najviπe moæe saznati u Gradskome muzeju Jastrebarsko, te perivoj uz dvorac, koji se veÊ nekoliko godina sustavno ureuje sredstvima Europske unije. Da bismo bolje razumjeli proπlost koja je obiljeæila jaskanski kraj, treba se prisjetiti naËina æivota tadaπnje aristokracije koja je zbog zasluga prema caru dobivala imanja i njima upravljala te od prihoda manje ili viπe raskoπno æivjela. Odgoj i æivot plemiÊa nemoguÊe je razumjeti bez naËela Plemstvo obvezuje. Vjernost caru s jedne strane i svijest da svaka generacija tek posuuje dvorac i imanje od prethodne generacije i duæna ih je − po moguÊnosti uveÊane − prenijeti slijedeÊoj generaciji i tako saËuvati rod i ime, sræ su tog naËela. Danaπnje vrijeme veliËa pojedinca i njegovo pravo da ostvari svoj potencijal u skladu s vlastitim æeljama pa se ni djeca viπe ne odgajaju tako da ih se uËi vaænosti roda i obitelji te duænosti da se imenu podari slava i zadræi obiteljska Ëast. Da bi se takve duænosti mogle ispunjavati, bila je kljuËna disciplina koju su plemiÊka djeca morala veÊ zarana prakticirati. Djecu se stalno opominjalo i ispravljalo. Pravilno dræanje, lijep i razgovijetan govor, manire lijepog ponaπanja, rano uËenje stranih jezika uvjeæbavale su odgojiteljice i guvernante, a poslije i kuÊni uËitelji. Tada je malo vremena ostajalo za igru i to se smatralo prihvatljivim. PlemiÊima je bilo veoma vaæno da se djeca oËeliËe i u ﬁziËkom smislu kako ne bi bila slaba i podloæna boljkama. To ne Ëudi, jer upravo su zbog svojih vojniËkih vjeπtina i snage, plemiÊi i dobivali plemstvo. Svi su prezirali mimoze, a osobito je po tom preziru prema ﬁziËkim slabostima bio poznat posljednji vlasnik dvorca u Jastrebarskom, grof Stjepan Erdödy. Stalno je vjeæbao, lovio, spavao u nezagrijanim prostorijama dvorca i ponavljao da se Ëovjek nikako ne smije zapustiti, opustiti ili − ne daj Boæe − kukati. Kupao se uvijek u hladnoj vodi, zimi je prostorije slabo grijao, a spavao je na tvrdom krevetu i jastuku od konjske strune. Aristokratsku samodisciplinu smatrao je svetom obvezom, a k tomu je bio i zakleti antialkoholiËar! I danas, kao i nekoÊ, aristokratski kôd ponaπanja prepoznaje se po iskazivanju poπtovanja pravilnim i primjerenim pozdravljanjem, leæernošÊu konverzacije i savrπenim manirama. Male su plemkinje tako veÊ kao male djevojËice nedjeljom pozivale svoje prijateljice na Ëaj da bi uvjeæbavale primjereno dræanje i ponaπanje. Jednako vaæno bilo je i umjeti plesati pa bi se plesni vjenËiÊi organizirali za djevojËice i djeËake veÊ od osme godine, a pritom se pazilo da u druπtvu ne bude nitko tko nije dio plemstva. Briga za slabe i nemoÊne smatrala se vrlo vaænim dijelom aristokratskog æivota. Tako je 30

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i grofica Lujza Erdödy, supruga grofa Rudolfa Erdödyja, starijeg brata grofa Stjepana, otvorila 1920.godine privatnu bolnicu obitelji Erdödy u Novom Marofu za besplatno lijeËenje bolesnih seljaka. PlemiÊka su djeca morala donositi hranu bolesnima i siromaπnima na njihovim imanjima i davati im dio svog dæeparca. Bio je to dio krπÊanskoga odgojnog ideala koji se u svim obiteljima neupitno njegovao, o Ëemu svjedoËe mnogobrojni dnevniËki zapisi, ali i donirane crkve, kapele, oltari i freske. Prekid strogoga dnevnog ritma bili su ljetni mjeseci koje bi obitelji provodile na svojim seoskim imanjima, u dvorcima koje bi tada posjeÊivali mnogobrojni gosti i roaci. Bilo je to vrijeme za lov, piknike, zajedniËko muziciranje i hobije, a kad je rijeË o posljednjem vlasniku dvorca, grofu Stjepanu, bilo je to i fotografiranje. Jedna od najvaænijih hrvatskih ranih fotografija pokreta, snimljena 1895.g., Ëiji se original Ëuva u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt u Zagrebu, djelo je grofa Karla DraπkoviÊa i prikazuje skok njegova ujaka, grofa Stjepana Erdödyja. Tijekom zajedniËkog druæenja inscenirane su mnoge i danas saËuvane fotografije. Ljubav prema fotografiji povezivala je grofa Stjepana i Veronu Bojter, æenu s kojom je u dvorcu proveo zadnjih dvadeset godina æivota i koja je jedna od najvaænijih hrvatskih ranih fotografkinja. Nikad se nisu vjenËali. Brak se tada nije povezivao s emocionalnim oËekivanjima nego s primjerenoπÊu odabira. Od braka se oËekivalo da traje do smrti i bude izvor ugode, prijateljstva i zadovoljstva. Ljubav je za sobarice, govorilo bi se mladim kontesama. Njihov cilj nije bio osobna sreÊa kroz emocionalno ispunjenje, nego nastavak i njega plemiÊke tradicije i naËina æivota. Zadatak udate plemkinje bila je briga za djecu i kuÊanstvo. KuÊanstvo nije znaËilo fiziËki rad nego pronalaæenje i upravljanje personalom koje je trebalo dati doprinos sjaju kuÊe. Znalo se kad se u nekoj kuÊi primaju posjeti, a æene su organizirale i soareje, Ëajanke i razna druæenja Ëija je svrha bila odræavanje kontinuiteta odnosa vlastitoga druπtvenog kruga. Salonska kultura zauzimala je vaæno mjesto u æivotima æena plemkinja i mnoge su se trudile svojim salonima podariti Ëar i jedinstvenost ugoaja. Vaæan dio i obveza plemkinja bila je i organizacija dobrotvornih balova i bazara, one su bile prve dobrotvorke, kao πto je bila i grofica Sidonija Erdödy Rubido, prva pokroviteljica Hrvatskoga glazbenog zavoda, a postala je poznata jer je 1833. u dobi od samo 14 godina u zagrebaËkoj Streljani izvela Gajevu budnicu Joπ Hrvatska ni propala uz neviene ovacije publike. U dvorcima i na imanjima æivjelo je zajedno viπe generacija, veoma se cijenilo æivotno iskustvo starijih koje je obitelj

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πtovala, a druπtvo uvaæavalo. Snaga pojedinca temeljila se na snazi obitelji, a upravo je obitelj Erdödy pripadala prvom krugu hrvatskih odliËnika, jer tijekom Ëetiri stoljeÊa, poËevπi od 16. stoljeÊa, dala je pet hrvatskih banova: Petra II, Tomu, Æigmunda, Nikolu i Ivana. Najpoznatiji je pripadnik loze ban Toma Erdödy, veliki pobjednik nad turskom vojskom u bitki ispod grada Siska 22.lipnja 1593. godine, a njegov mlai brat, Petar III (1560.−1613.), zaËetnik je grane obitelji Ëije je sjediπte bilo u Jastrebarskom ili Jaski. Erdödyjevi su, da bi obnovili duhovni æivot u narodu, u jaskanski kraj doveli franjevce, a tijekom vremena u Jastrebarskom su obnovili æupnu crkvu sv. Nikole u baroknom stilu i sagradili novi samostan zajedno s crkvom sv. Marije. ©to se njihovoga jaskanskog dvorca tiËe, sagradio ga je Matija Gereb u razdoblju od 1483. do 1489. godine. Zgrada dvorca izvedena je kao Ëetverokut koji je smjeπten na blagoj uzvisini i opkoljen jarcima, kao πto su raene utvrde nizinskog tipa. Kaπtel je bio jedna od utvrda u vrijeme turskih osvajanja. Krila su mu razliËite visine, a najviπe krilo zatvaraju dva preostala zaobljena tornja. Unutraπnje dvoriπte krasi trijem s arkadama i barokni stupovi, πto se moæe vidjeti na fotograﬁjama iz privatnog albuma obitelji, koji se Ëuva u muzeju. Zadnji vlasnik dvorca, grof Stjepan, roen 1848., bio je vrlo originalna osoba, strastven lovac, zaljubljenik u prirodu, i vlasnik prvog automobila u Jastrebarskom. Vodio je pravi lovaËki dnevnik, Jagdjournal, od kojega je saËuvana 21 biljeænica rukom ispisana na njemaËkom jeziku. Bio je i veoma dobar ilustrator bilja i æivotinja. Proputovao je cijelu Europu, posjetio Rusiju, Kinu, Tibet i sjevernu Afriku. Po politiËkom opredjeljenju bio je grof Stjepan maaron i zastupnik hrvatskog Sabora. Zagreb bi ga odveÊ umarao, volio je prirodu, iznad svega lov, a rado je ugoπÊavao rodbinu i aristokratske prijatelje iz obitelji KegleviÊ, Kulmer, Bombelles, Khuen, Palffy, Lepel i druge. Tada su se Ëesto organizirali piknici u perivoju, iπlo se u lov, igrao se tenis i sluπale gramofonske ploËe. U Gradskome muzeju u Jastrebarskom Ëuvaju se joπ neke osobne stvari grofa Stjepana, kao πto je πtap od ruæinog drveta, bez kojeg nije izlazio u javnost, obiteljski album s fotograﬁjama, namjeπtaj, posue, knjige i dio korespondencije. Bio je pravi onodobni dandy, kicoπ, koji se uvijek odijevao vrlo ekstravagantno, a pokopan je na groblju u Jastrebarskom zaogrnut u srednjovjekovni plaπt i okiÊen rubinima. Grof Stjepan Erdödy, ljubitelj prirode i lova, osnovao je u dvorcu Ëak i Prirodoslovni muzej, u kojemu je 1911. bilo 259 trofeja i prepariranih æivotinja. Upravo je on najviπe zasluæan za perivoj oko dvorca, koji se obnavlja marom gradskih sluæbenika uz 32

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pomoÊ Europskih fondova. No, Teodor, velika ciklona s kraja 2013., naæalost je sruπila neka vrijedna stabla i u perivoju. U vrijeme grofa Stjepana u perivoju je bilo i divljaËi za odstrel, imao je nekoliko lovoËuvara, a u dvorcu æivjelo je i tridesetak razliËitih sluga. Sadaπnji oblik perivoja grofa Stjepana u Jastrebarskom nastao je na prijelazu iz 19. u 20.stoljeÊe po uzoru na oblikovani krajobraz engleskog tipa. Za razliku od francuskoga parkovnog stila, koji je prirodi nametao stroge forme i geometrijske oblike, tada moderni engleski perivoj nastoji zadræati prirodnu strukturu πumske vegetacije. U takvom perivoju Ëovjek prirodu viπe ne podreuje sebi, nego od nje uËi, iako djeluje neformalno i u toj je vrsti perivoja sve pomno promiπljeno. U takvom perivoju πetaËi traæe sklad i doæivljaj. Perivoj grofa Stjepana oblikovan je u slobodnom stilu i nastavlja se na prirodnu πumu, koja i danas zauzima zapadno podruËje parka. Od autohtonih elemenata istiËu se primjerci hrasta luænjaka, javora, crvenolisne bukve i graba. Impozantne su skupine starih viseÊih smreka, ariπa i πumskog bora. Od egzota, znaËajnije su po starosti i razvijenosti kroπnje katalpa, sofora, kao i tuæne vrbe u opkopu dvorca. ZaπtiÊena povrπina parka iznosi 9,47 ha. U prostranom perivoju za ugodu je zaduæen potok Reka, a na jezeru Park, po kojemu su aristokrati veslali u manjim Ëamcima, danas se mogu vidjeti tek ribiËi rekreativci. Nasuprot dvorca smjestila se stara Æitnica koja je obnovljena i sluæi kao izloæbeni prostor. Ispred Æitnice ureen je i lijepo ozelenjeni plato na kojem se organiziraju razliËite manifestacije. BuduÊi da grof Stjepan nije imao djece, imanje nakon njegove smrti nasljeuje grof Lajos, sin njegova bratiÊa, ali veÊ ga 1926. godine prodaje veletrgovcu drvetom Ehrmannu, koji je 1936. g. zbog gospodarske krize otiπao u steËaj. Na steËajnoj draæbi prodana je veÊina namjeπtaja, posua i slika preostalih od grofa Stjepana, a dvorac i perivoj otkupljuje opÊina i u njega smjeπta sirotiπte, a poslije zaviËajni muzej. Dvorac je danas prazan. Tako je zavrπila priËa o vlasniπtvu obitelji Erdödy u Jastrebarskom nakon toËno 407 godina. Iako obitelji Erdödy viπe nema, putokaz tik do dvorca upozorava na obitelj KolariÊ, koja je osvojila Zlatnu povelju najboljega seoskoga gospodarstva. Na imanju se obitelj nalazi joπ od 1375.godine, ali viπe se ne bavi stoËarstvom nego vinogradarstvom i ugostiteljstvom. Na njihovom imanju sada æive gazda Stjepan, sin Franjo i unuk Ivano. Ondje se mogu kuπati silvanac zeleni, sivi i crni pinot, portugizac, rajnski rizling, chardonnay i pjenuπac ruæica, a moæe se i prenoÊiti. Samo 5 kilometara dalje, podno JapetiÊa, nalazi se ©umski dvor, ljetnikovac grofova Erdödy iz 1656., u kojem vlada

cvjetni trio obitelji KolariÊ: mama Ruæica kuha, kÊi Jasmina vodi posao, a pomaæe im i unuka Amalija, tj. Ljubica. Izletiπte je otvoreno svakog vikenda, a s terase ukraπene cvijeÊem pruæa se prekrasan pogled na svetojansku dolinu. U restoranu se nude lokalni specijaliteti, a osobitost je što se vikendom peËe 12 vrsta kruha. DomaÊe πtrukle i πtrudle rade se od tijesta koje se u ljetnikovcu i priprema, a uz divljaË nudi se i poznato mesno jelo svetojanska lepeza, juneÊi but punjen πpekom i kruhom. Tu je prilika da se otpoËine, uæiva u panoramskom pogledu nad svetojanskom dolinom i odabere joπ jednog vinara s poznate pleπiviËke vinske ceste, koja obuhvaÊa rutu s 40 vinara. Zanima li vas kako se nekoÊ mljelo braπno, posjetite obliænji mlin i mlinarovu iæu uz najavu kod gospoe VojvodiÊ (098 9291639) koja se o njemu s ljubavlju brine. Nisu samo plemenita vina odlika jaskanskog kraja. Obitelj Repar odluËila se nakon æivota u Zagrebu vratiti na djedovinu, jedno od bivπih uzornih imanja grofova Erdödy u Volavju, nedaleko od Jastrebarskog, i otvoriti seosko gospodarstvo Repro eko (www.repro.hr). Starinska kuÊa tik do rjeËice, na kojoj je i mlin, nudi edukativne seminare, ekoloπke radionice, smjeπtaj i teËajeve kuhanja. VeÊina njihovih proizvoda ima oznaku ekoproizvod, a rijeË je o svim vrstama pπeniËnog braπna uzgojenoga i mljevenoga na ekoloπki naËin. Integralna braπna melju na kamen, a proizvode i tofu, seitan i razne vegetarijanske popeËke. Uz kuÊu je sjenica za objedovanje, a iza kuÊe velik vrt. Obitelj u starinskoj kuÊi nudi i smjeπtaj, pa na imanju moæete danima uæivati uz povremenu zvonjavu iz obliænje kapele Gospe Snjeæne, jedne od najstarijih i najpoznatijih proπteniËkih crkava u sjevernoj Hrvatskoj, u koju i danas mnogi hodoËaste.

lthough the power of the aristocracy and the strong inﬂuence they had on the political, economic and cultural life in Croatia vanished at the end of WW1, their manors, parks and summer villas still bear witness to the great role those noble families once played. Their descendants either died out or left Croatia a long time ago, but their legacy is still talked about and studied. This is certainly true for Jastrebarsko and the entire Jaska region where Erdödy family members lived for centuries and where they left the biggest mark. A very prominent part of their legacy is a manor in the heart of Jastrebarsko. Its history is well-documented and preserved for posterity in the Jastrebarsko City Museum while the park around the manor has been maintained and looked after with the help of European Union funds. In order to better understand the past of the Jaska region, we CROATIA AIRLINES

have to understand how the aristocracy and landed gentry lived. For services rendered to the emperor, they received estates to enjoy, manage, and live on more than comfortably. It would be quite difﬁcult to appreciate the formation and life of the nobility without understanding the noblesse oblige principle. There was loyalty to the emperor on the one hand, and awareness that every generation was just a custodian of the estate, which was merely borrowed from their predecessors, on the other. Passing it on to the generation that followed, after possibly expanding it, and thus, preserving the family and its name, was at the core of that principle. Modern times glorify the individual, focussing on each person’s right to achieve their full potential in keeping with their own wishes, so children are no longer raised to appreciate the importance of family. The obligation to spread the glory of the family name and protect the family’s honour becomes obsolete. To be able to live up to their duty, aristocratic children of the time needed discipline and were raised to practice it from a very young age. Children were always admonished and set right. Governesses and teachers were hired to teach them good posture, proper elocution, good manners and foreign languages from an early age. There was very little time left for play, and no one thought anything of it. Members of the nobility made sure that their children hardened up physically, as well as mentally, so they would not grow up weak and prone to diseases. This is not surprising given that the nobility owed their titles to their military skills and prowess. Everybody despised sissies. Count Stjepan Erdödy, the last owner of the manor in Jastrebarsko, was particularly known for his disdainful attitude towards physical weakness. He exercised all the time, hunted, slept in unheated rooms in his manor and was often heard saying that a man should never let himself go, or god forbid, complain. He always bathed in cold water, never heated the rooms excessively in wintertime, and slept on a hard bed on a cushion of horse hair. He considered aristocratic self-discipline a sacred duty, and was a sworn teetotaller to boot. Not unlike today, aristocratic conduct was reﬂected in courteous greetings, light conversation and impeccable manners. As children, young aristocratic ladies used to invite their friends for Sunday tea to practice good manners and conduct. Equally important for young aristocrats was the ability to dance graciously, so dance balls were organized for boys and girls from the age of eight on. A lot of care was taken to ensure that people attending the balls were members of the nobility. Care for the weak and needy 34

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was considered an important part of aristocratic life. Countess Lujza Erdödy, the wife of Count Rudolf Erdödy, Count Stjepan’s older brother, opened the Erdödy family’s private hospital in Novi Marof, where sick peasants could receive free medical care. Aristocratic children had to bring food to the sick and poor on their estates and share some of their pocket money with them. It was all part of a Christian ideal, which was cherished by everybody without exception. This is corroborated by many private diaries, as well as numerous donated churches, chapels, alters and frescoes. A strict everyday routine was interrupted during the summer months when noble families retired to their country houses and manors where they would host numerous guests and relatives. It was a time to go hunting or picnicking, to play music together and engage in hobbies. The last owner of the Jastrebarsko manor, Count Stjepan, practiced photography in his free time. One of the most important photographs of the early Croatian photographic movements, depicting Count Stjepan Erdödy amidst a jump, was taken in 1895, by his nephew Count Karlo DraπkoviÊ. The original is kept at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb. Those get-togethers spurred many photos, a lot of which have been kept to this very day. Love of photography was the link between Count Stjepan and Verona Bojter, the woman with whom he spent the last ten years of his life in the manor. She was one of the most important early photographers in Croatia. The two were never married. At the time, marriage was not meant to fulﬁl emotional expectations ∑ it was rather a matter of appropriate selection. Marriage was supposed to last until death did the couple part and to be a source of comfort, friendship and satisfaction. Love is for housemaids is what young countesses used to hear from their elders. Their goal was not to achieve personal happiness through emotional fulﬁlment, but rather to continue to foster aristocratic traditions and ways of life. The main task of a married aristocrat woman was to care for her children and household. Looking after a household did not mean hard physical labour though. The lady of the manor was expected to hire and manage servants capable of contributing to the splendour of the house. Every grand house had visiting hours, during which society hostesses organized soirees, tea parties and other social functions to maintain the continuity of relations within their social circle. The salon culture occupied a very important

place in the lives of aristocratic ladies. Many went to great lengths to make their salons particularly charming and unique. Another important duty that aristocratic ladies had was to organize charity balls and bazaars. One of those original fundraisers was Countess Sidonija Erdödy Rubido, the first patroness of the Croatian Music Institute. Her fame spread after 1833, when at the tender age of 14, she performed Gaj’s patriotic song, Still Croatia has not Fallen, and received a standing ovation from the audience at Zagreb’s shooting club. Several generations lived together in manors and on estates. The elders’ life experience was much appreciated by their families and society as a whole. The strength of individuals stemmed from the strength of their families. The Erdödys belonged to an inner circle of Croatian nobles and produced as many as 5 Croatian bans (viceroys), who ruled Croatia during a period of 4 centuries starting with the 16th century. They were Petar II, Toma, Æigmund, Nikola and Ivan. The most well-known family member was Ban Toma Erdödy, a great military leader who defeated the Turkish army in the Battle at Sisak on the 22nd of June, 1593. His younger brother was the forefather of the family line, which settled in Jastrebarsko or Jaska. In order to rekindle a spiritual life among the people, the Erdödys brought Franciscans to Jaska. They also reconstructed the Parish Church of St Nicholas and gave it a Baroque appearance. They built a new monastery together with the Church of St. Mary. Their manor in Jaska was built by Matija Gereb from 1483 to 1489. The rectangular building was erected on mildly sloping ground and encircled by trenches in the manner of lower-lying fortresses. The castle served as one of many forts during Turkish onslaughts. Each wing is of a different height, and the highest is flanked by two circular turrets. The inner courtyard boasts a porch with arcades and Baroque columns as may be seen from a private family album kept at the museum. The last owner of the manor, Count Stjepan, who was born in 1848, was a rather eccentric person. He was a passionate hunter, lover of nature and the owner of the first car in Jastrebarsko. He kept a proper hunting diary, the so-called Jagdjournal. It was handwritten in German, as is evident by the 21 preserved notebooks. He was a rather good illustrator of plants and animals. He travelled extensively; on his journeys, he saw all of Europe; he visited Russia, China, Tibet and Northern Africa. Count Stjepan was a politician who favoured union with Hungary and a member of the Croatian Parliament. Zagreb tired him out; he loved nature, and particularly hunting; he was CROATIA AIRLINES

happy playing host to his relatives and friends from the KegleviÊ, Kulmer, Bombelles, Khuen, Palffy, Lepel, and other aristocratic families. Their visits were reasons to organize picnics in the park, to go hunting, play tennis, or listen to records. The Jastrebarsko City Museum

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is home to Count Stjepan’s personal effects, such as his rosewood walking stick, without which he was never seen in public, some family photo albums, furniture, china, books, and various correspondence. He was a dandy who always dressed very extravagantly. His body was laid to rest at the Jastrebarsko City Cemetery wrapped in a medieval cloak decorated with rubies. Count Stjepan Erdödy, a lover of nature and hunting went as far as founding a nature museum on his manor. In 1911, the manor housed a collection of 259 trophies and taxidermied animals. He was the one who deserved the most credit for the park around the manor, which is, nowadays, maintained by diligent civil servants with the help of European Union funds. Unfortunately, Teodor, the strong cyclone that hit the area in late 2013, destroyed some of the most valuable trees in the park. When Count Stjepan was alive, the park was populated by game and it had a few game wardens. There were also about 30 servants living in the manor. The current appearance of Count Stjepan’s park, fashioned after an English-style park, dates back to the turn of the 20th century. Unlike the French-style, whose landscaping imposed a corset of strict forms and geometric shapes

on nature, the English-style attempted to preserve the natural structure of forest vegetation. In a landscape of this kind, humans do not subjugate nature to their needs, but rather learn from it. Although rather informal in appearance, such parks are exercises in careful planning. Strollers through the park look for harmony and experiences in them. Count Stjepan’s park was shaped in a free style and constituted an extension to a natural forest, which still occupies the park’s western side. Common oak, maple, common beech and hornbeam are some of the indigenous species that populate the park. Other imposing sights are clusters of spruce, larch and pine trees. Among the exotic plants, southern catalpas and Japanese pagoda trees are important in terms of age and treetop size. The same goes for willow trees in the trench around the manor. The protected area of the park spreads out onto 9.47 hectares of ground. The Reka stream ﬁlls the park with pleasant scents, while Park Lake, where aristocrats passed their time rowing in small boats, nowadays, provides hours of pleasure only to anglers. The old Æitnica (granary) across the park from the manor has been refurbished and serves as an exhibition area. A green plateau in front

of the Æitnica is used for various events. Since Count Stjepan died childless, the estate was inherited by Count Lajos, his cousin’s son, who did not keep it in his possession for long. In 1926, he sold it to the timber wholesaler Ehrmann, who went bankrupt in 1936, during an economic crisis. Most of Count Stjepan’s furniture, china and paintings were sold at auction, while the manor and the park were purchased by the municipality to house an orphanage and later, a museum. Today, the manor stands empty. This is how the story of the Erdödy family estate in Jastrebarsko came to an end after exactly 407 years. Although the Erdödy family is extinct, a signpost next to the manor points to the house of the KolariÊ family, a gold medal recipient for best rural household. The family has lived there since 1375, but they are no longer cattle breeders. They are wine makers and restauranteurs. The current residents are master Stjepan, his son Franjo and grandson Ivano. You can taste their Silvanac Zeleni, Pinot Grigio and Noir, Portugizac, Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay wines and Ruæica sparkling wine or spend a night there. Only 5 kilometres away, at the foot of JapetiÊ, there is the Erdödy’s summer villa, ©umski dvor, built in 1656, where the KolariÊ floral trio reigns supreme: mother Ruæica (Rose) is the head chef, daughter Jasmina (Jasmine) is in charge of the business, and grand-daughter Amalia (Violet) assists them both. The restaurant is open every weekend. Its terrace, full of flowers, commands a breathtaking view of the Sveta Jana Valley. The restaurant specialises in local cuisine, and offers as many as 12 different types of home-baked bread every weekend. The pastry for home-made πtrukli (oven baked pastry filled with cottage cheese), and strudels is prepared in the restaurant. Among the specialties on the restaurant’s menu are game, a locally-famous pork dish (Svetojanska Lepeza), and beefsteak filled with bacon and bread. This provides an excellent opportunity to rest, enjoy the panoramic view of the Sveta Jana valley and choose another winemaker to visit on the well-known Pleπivica wine road ∑ a route along which you can find as many as 40 wine growers and wine makers. Should you be interested in how grains are milled into flour, visit the nearby mill and miller’s house. Reserve a spot with Mrs. VojvodiÊ (098 9291639) who takes loving care of the mill. Noble wines are not the only regional claim to fame. Having spent most of their life in Zagreb, the Repar family decided to return to Volavje near Jastrebarsko, the land of their ancestors, one of the former model households on the Erdödy estate, and open a tourist facility called, Repro Eko (www.repro.hr),

there. An old house on the river bank with a mill next to it offers educational seminars, and environmental protection related workshops, accommodation and cooking courses. Most of their produce bears the Ekoproizvod symbol, denoting the eco-friendliness of their wheat ﬂour made from organically grown and traditionally ground grain. In addition to the integral stone ground ﬂour, they also produce tofu, seitan and various vegetarian burgers. Next to the house is a gazebo where patrons can have their meals and also a large garden behind the house. The family offers accommodation in the old house so patrons can stay there for days and enjoy the chiming bells of the Chapel of Our Lady of Snow, one of the oldest and most

well-known pilgrimage churches in western Croatia, which still attracts pilgrims in droves. Although Jastrebarsko and the Jaska region are very close to Zagreb (some thirty kilometres away), they offer a very different lifestyle, which is why the number of visitors attracted to the slow, hustle and bustle free rhythm, is constantly on the rise. For those who like to live dangerously in their free time, there are paragliding opportunities on JapetiÊ and Pleπivica and motorcycle racing in Mladina. For those who prefer more leisurely recreational pursuits, there are cycling, mountaineering and trekking routes where visitors can relax and enjoy the area surrounded by peace and quiet.

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RIJEKA

RITAM GRADA RHYTHM OF THE CITY

ijeka je grad bogate povijesti i dinamiËne sadaπnjosti, novih vizura i æivotne radosti. NovosteËenim prednostima turistiËkog srediπta koje se miljama odmaklo od svojedobne percepcije luËkoga i industrijskoga

grada dodaje i one nekadaπnje - zbog odliËne prometne povezanosti cestom, brodom, æeljeznicom ili zrakoplovom u Rijeku se lako dolazi, ali ona je i ishodiπte za nova putovanja. U povijesnoj slici grada, od prapovijesti i gotiËke pa zatim i barokne Rijeke te snaænih utjecaja Austro-Ugarske Monarhije, nataloæena su stoljeÊa i svako je od njih u arhitekturi grada ostavilo traga, stvarajuÊi zanimljivu i povijesnim spomenicima bogatu gradsku jezgru. RijeËki Trsat, za stanovnike grada i njihove goste posebno mjesto, najstarije je hrvatsko marijansko svetiπte i odrediπte brojnih vjernika, u kojemu je 2003. godine boravio sveti otac Ivan Pavao Drugi. Rijeka ima bogatu proπlost, ali nije njome

zarobljena, nego pulsira dinamiËnim ritmom svakodnevice, koji Êete moæda najbolje osjetiti u srediπtu grada, na uvijek æivoj srediπnjoj πetnici, Korzu. Vi sjedite, a ljudi, slike i dogaanja prolaze… Ali i kad se ugase svjetla i mnogi gradovi utihnu, Rijeka intenzivno æivi u kavanama i restoranima s izvrsnom gastronomskom ponudom te, dakako, u klubovima u kojima zabava za mlade traje dugo u noÊ. RijeËki je kalendar dogaanja prepun cijele godine pa Êe gosti - u koje god doba doπli - u njemu pronaÊi mnoge zanimljive i atraktivne priredbe glazbenoga, dramskoga i likovnog izriËaja, kao i urbane klubove za mlade koji nude provod baπ po njihovoj mjeri. Uz tradicionalan, ali uvijek zanimljiv program ljetnih priredaba, sigurno Êe vas zaokupiti i manifestacije kao πto su RijeËke ljetne noÊi, Ljeto na Gradini i druge. Njihovi posjetitelji svih generacija uæivat Êe u bogatom programu dramskih, glazbenih i likovnih priredaba koje za njih prireuju najpoznatiji hrvatski i svjetski umjetnici. No Rijeka intenzivno æivi i na svojoj obali, na kojoj su ureene prekrasne plaæe. Jednako Êe tako zanimljivo biti upoznavanje grada osmiπljenim pjeπaËkim rutama ili pak voænja rijeËkim biciklistiËkim stazama. Rijeka, jednostavno, ima mnogo lica - sva su zanimljiva i zavodljiva i sva su - namijenjena vama. KARNEVALI - DOISTA, ÆIVOT JE LIJEP! Jeste li znali da upravo odavde potjeËe tradicija pokladnih obiËaja koji su u svojem izvornom pa i izvedenom obliku postali prava atrakcija? Halubajski zvonËari nalaze se od 2009. godine na Unescovoj reprezentativnoj listi nematerijalne kulturne baπtine svijeta. Naime, u Halubju - istoËnom dijelu Kastavπtine - saËuvani su jedinstveni narodni obiËaji - zvonËari Ëije porijeklo seæe duboko u povijest. SpeciﬁËnog su izgleda - ogrnuti su ovËjim koæama i sa zvoncem na donjem dijelu lea, na glavi imaju stilizirane maske - Ëudne æivotinjske glave s crvenim isplaæenim jezikom i rogovima. Odjeveni su u bijele hlaËe i mornarske majice kratkih rukava, a u rukama dræe stilizirani buzdovan. U vrijeme poklada u velikoj grupi obilaze sela sa zajedniËkim ciljem da otjeraju neprijatelja, zle sile i zimu. Svojim su impresivnim nastupom prvorazredna turistiËka atrakcija. Oni su i redovita postava najvaænije manifestacije ovoga kraja - RijeËkog karnevala koji svake godine privlaËi sve viπe sudionika, ali i posjetitelja iz cijelog svijeta. Meunarodni rijeËki karneval, koji se u gradu Rijeci obnovljen odræava od 1982. godine - ima ishodiπte u dalekoj povijesti. Prvi je

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pisani trag dokument iz 1449. godine, kojim je zabranjeno prekrivanje lica maskom kako bi se sprijeËilo kritiziranje vlasti te odræao red i mir. Meunarodni rijeËki karneval po ocjeni Sunday Timesa uvrπten je u vrh najatraktivnijih svjetskih dogaanja. Rijeka u to vrijeme, nazvana petim godiπnjim dobom, postaje karnevalsko srediπte ovog dijela svijeta. Raskoπne povorke i alegorijska kola moæda su najozbiljnija, a svakako i najiskrenija kritika druπtvene zbilje. Pod maskama je sve moguÊe!

ijeka is a city of rich history and dynamic present, new perspectives and the joy of life. Alongside its newly acquired benefits as a tourist centre that has escaped from its former image of a port and industrial city, it adds old ones as well - excellent traffic connections by road, boat, rail or plane, both as a means of arrival and as a starting point for new journeys. In the historical image of the city, from prehistory and the Gothic, and then the baroque Rijeka and the strong influences of the AustroHungarian monarchy, centuries have been deposited and each and every one of them has left its mark in its architecture, creating an interesting city nucleus rich in historical monuments. Trsat, a part of Rijeka, is a very special place for citizens of Rijeka and their guests, as the oldest Croatian Marian shrine and a destination for many religious people, including the Holy Father John Paul II. in 2003. Rijeka has a rich history, yet is not its slave. Instead it pulsates with a dynamic rhythm of everyday life, which you will probably feel in the best way in the very centre of the city, on the always vibrant central promenade, Korzo. You sit and people, images and events are passing by... But even when the lights go out and many cities go silent, Rijeka lives intensely in cafes and restaurants with excellent gastronomic offers and, of course, in clubs where the party goes on until late at night for young people. Rijeka’s calendar of events is overflowing

throughout the year so regardless of the season, guests will find many interesting and attractive music, drama, art ... performances, as well as urban clubs for the younger generations that offer their kind of entertainment. Together with the traditional but always interesting summer events program, manifestations such as Rijeka Summer Nights (RijeËke ljetne noÊi, Summer at Gradina (Ljeto na Gradini) and others will definitely occupy your attention as well. Visitors to the aforementioned events of all generations will enjoy a rich program of drama, music and art performances prepared by the most famous artists from Croatia and the world. However, Rijeka lives intensely on its coast with its beautiful beaches. Exploring the city via planned walking routes or bicycle trails is also interesting. Rijeka, to put it simply, has many faces - all of them are interesting and seductive and all of them are meant for you. CARNIVALS - INDEED, LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL! Did you know that it is right here where the tradition of carnival customs originates? In their original and even in their derived form, they have become a real attraction. The Halubaj bell ringers are listed in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Namely, in Halubaj - the eastern part of the Kastav Region - unique folk customs have been preserved the bell ringers (zvonËari) whose origin goes a long way back into history. They have specific attire - draped in sheepskin, with a bell on the lower part of their backs, and stylized masks on their heads - strange animal heads with horns and a red tongue sticking out. They are dressed in white trousers and sailor’s striped T-shirts. And in their hands they hold a stylized

mace. During the carnival, they go around the villages in a large group, with the common goal of chasing away enemies, evil forces and winter. Their impressive performance makes a ﬁrst-class tourist attraction. They are also regular participants in the most important event of this area - the Rijeka Carnival, which attracts more and more participants and visitors every year from all over the world. The International Carnival Parade of the Rijeka Carnival, which has been taking place in Rijeka since 1982 in its restored form, has origins in ancient history. The ﬁrst written record is a document from 1449 which forbids the covering of the face with a mask in order to prevent criticism of the government and to maintain peace and order. The Sunday Times has listed the International Carnival Parade at the very top of the most attractive events in the world. During that season, called the Fifth season of the year, Rijeka becomes the carnival centre of this part of the world, and the luxurious processions and allegorical wagons may be the most severe, but also the most honest criticism of social reality. Under masks, anything is possible!

Rijeka Tourist Board T. +385 51 335 882 @ info@visitRijeka.hr www.visitRijeka.eu www.Rijecki-karneval.hr

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ENOLOGIJA ENOLOGY

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VINSKI DRAGULJ KONTINENTALNE HRVATSKE THE VITICULTURAL JEWEL OF CONTINENTAL CROATIA

Iako je sjeverozapadna Hrvatska, u odnosu na druga hrvatska podruËja, priliËno hladna, nedaleko od glavnoga grada Zagreba nalazimo izvrsne poloæaje za proizvodnju kvalitetnih vina. Obronci Pleπivice, na samo tridesetak kilometara juæno od gradske vreve, ekoloπka su oaza koja svojim obilježjima omoguÊuje ZagrepËanima i njihovim gostima vrhunski vinski uæitak. Although north-western Croatia is fairly cold compared to some other Croatian regions, the surroundings of Croatia’s capital - Zagreb, offers excellent terroirs for production of quality wines. The hillsides of Pleπivica, located only 30 kilometres south from the bustling city, are an ecological oasis whose characteristics make it possible for the citizens of Zagreb and their guests to enjoy exquisite wines.

Piπe/By Edi Maletić

bronci Pleπivice, sa svojim poznatim amﬁteatrima, prekriveni su tom kulturom stoljeÊima, a stanovnici tradicionalno okrenuti proizvodnji vina. Rezultat je to izvrsnih prirodnih uvjeta, osunËanih, toplih i prozraËnih vinogradarskih poloæaja na poviπenim, nagnutim i jugu okrenutim terenima. Mikroklimatski uvjeti, orografija i obilježja tla na tim su terenima vrlo povoljni za dobivanje kvalitetnih i vrhunskih bijelih vina, pa se tradicionalno u veÊini uzgajaju bijele sorte. Introducirane su gotovo sve poznate svjetske sorte, ali ima i autohtonih, koje se pokuπavaju revitalizirati, tako da se danas u ponudi moæe pronaÊi mnoπtvo etiketa, uglavnom sortnih vina. U sortimentu cijele kontinentalne Hrvatske, pa tako i u ovom podruËju, dominantna je graπevina, sorta podrijetlom iz zapadne

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir Fabijanić

Europe, ali kod nas udomaÊena i uvelike prihvaÊena. Vrlo je polivalentna, daje uglavnom kvalitetna i stolna vina iz redovite berbe, ali Ëesto i predikate najviπe kakvoÊe. Vina su joj svjeæa, diskretno aromatiËna, osrednje punoÊe i jakosti, a bazno je vino mnogo proizvoaËa. U posljednje vrijeme chardonnay je preuzeo dominaciju u mlaim vinogradima, a u ovim proizvodnim uvjetima daje bogata i puna, Ëesto visokoalkoholiËna vina, mirisa srednjeg intenziteta cvjetno-voÊnog karaktera. OËituje ovdje mnoge sortne vrline, pa iako su to, po pravilu, snaæna karakterna vina, zbog klimatskih uvjeta posebna su i prilično drugačija od veÊine drugih vina te sorte, osobito iz toplijih podruËja. Rizling rajnski svoje mjesto nalazi na Pleπivici veÊ duæe vrijeme, pa se Ëesto sadi

u ovdaπnjim vinogradima. Svoje nesumnjivo visoke kvalitativne karakteristike oËituje kod mnogih proizvoaËa, a to su vrlo lijep sortni miris, zamjetna svjeæina, te puni okus koji je Ëesto praÊen s ostatkom neprovrela πeÊera. Pinot bijeli i pinot sivi takoer su Ëesti u ovdaπnjim vinogradima. Svjeæina i vrlo lijepe arome krase, po pravilu, vina koja najËeπÊe na træiπte dolaze kao suha, srednje jakosti, ali zamjetne punoÊe. Silvanac zeleni i sauvignon bijeli tradicionalno su raπirene sorte, posljednjih godina vrlo traæena vina, ponajprije zbog vrlo lijepih cvjetnih i voÊnih mirisa. Od traminca tradicionalno se proizvode vrhunska desertna vina. Kasne i izborne berbe, nerijetko i ledena vina najËeπÊe se dobivaju viniﬁkacijom prezreloga groæa te sorte, a to su vina osobitih organoleptiËnih obilježja - vrlo aromatiËna

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(intenzivne arome meda, te prezreloga i suhog voÊa), puna i obiËno s veÊim ostatkom neprovrela πeÊera. Manje zastupljene crne sorte predvodi svjetski poznati pinot crni, ali pozornost valja obratiti na portugizac, crnu sortu koja se odavna uzgaja u ovom podruËju i Ëija vina obiËno izlaze na træiπte kao vrlo mlada. Mnogi su ga skloni nazivati hrvatski Gamay beaujolais, po uzoru na francuska vina koja se redovito træiπtu nude veÊ u studenom u istoj godini berbe. Portugizac ima izvrsne karakteristike kao mlado vino, okuplja sve veÊi krug poklonika, pa se takoer u studenom organiziraju Dani portugisca, kada se prezentiraju vina te sorte. Tako gradske vlasti nastoje potaknuti kulturu uæivanja mladih vina 44

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kao u susjednim zemljama, podupirala se njegova sadnja, a u tom je smislu ZagrebaËka æupanija proteklih godina potaknula zaπtitu njegovih vina, pa se nudi kao kao æupanijska robna marka. U vinogradima Pleπivice mogu se pronaÊi joπ neke autohtone sorte, kao πto su kraljevina, plavec æuti, šipelj ranfol i sl., ali rijetko se viniﬁciraju zasebno. Na ovom podruËju relativno je mnogo proizvoaËa s malim povrπinama, ali posljednjih se godina nekoliko obiteljskih vinarija razvilo u srednje velike, s respektabilnim koliËinama za hrvatsko træiπte. Osim podruma u Mladini, koji je u sastavu koncerna Agrokor (izvrstan rizling rajnski, sauvignon i traminac), veÊina proizvodnje odvija se na obiteljskim

Korak

Sember

Tomac

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Tomac

gospodarstvima. Meu znaËajnije (traæena i nagraivana vina) valja izdvojiti obitelj Tomac (izvrstan chardonnay i sauvignon, posljednjih godina kao raritet i vino iz amfore), te obitelj Korak (chardonnay, portugizac). Tu su joπ i vina LediÊ (portugizac, pinot crni, traminac), Šember (chardonnay, portugizac), te nekoliko obiteljskih podruma - Agro Reæek (portugizac, rizvanac), Zdravko Reæek (silvanac zeleni), KunoviÊ (rizling rajnski, chardonnay). Joπ ih je poprilično, a mnogi se Ëesto pojave s nekom posebnom etiketom ili berbom. Treba naglasiti da posljednjih godina mnogi nude i pjenuπce, koji su se pokazali izvrsnima, a prema miπljenju mnogih, upravo su pleπiviËki najbolji na hrvatskom træiπtu. 46

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Nije nevaæno spomenuti i da je joπ 2001. godine otvorena PleπiviËka vinska cesta. Tako se svim posjetiteljima, osim prekrasnog krajobraza, nudi i vrhunski enogastronomski uæitak - mnogo tradicionalnih jela i visokokvalitetnih vina.

he hillsides of Pleπivica, and its renowned amphitheatres, have been planted under vines for centuries, while wine making is part of a long-standing local tradition. This is a result of excellent natural conditions, sunny, warm and airy vineyards located on raised, sloping south-facing terrain. Microclimate conditions, orography and characteristics of the soil are particularly

Režek

Ledić

Mladina

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conducive to the production of quality white wine. Almost all world famous grape varieties have been introduced to the area, but autochthonous cultivars are also being revitalized, so the wine being offered is truly vast. The assortment throughout continental Croatia, as well as this particular area, is dominated by Welschriesling (known as Graπevina in Croatia), a variety that originates from Western Europe, but is very widespread and wellestablished in Croatia. It is very polyvalent, and it regularly yields ﬁne wine, usually of the highest quality. The wine produced from this variety is fresh, discretely aromatic, of medium fullness and strength, and it is the basic wine for most producers. 48

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In recent times, Chardonnay has become prevalent in younger vineyards. The wines produced under these conditions are rich, fullbodied, with a higher alcohol content, a bouquet of medium intensity and a ﬂowery-fruity character. The regionally-made Chardonnay displays most of the variety’s characteristics, particularly strong character, but the climate makes them special and quite different from other wines of this sort, especially those that originate from warmer climates. Riesling has been cultivated at Pleπivica for quite some time now, and it is often found in local vineyards. Most winemakers’ varietals of this sort display remarkably high quality characteristics, including a pleasant aroma,

noticeable freshness and a full flavour with an aftertaste of unfermented sugar. Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are also common in local vineyards. Freshness and pleasant aromas are typical characteristics for such wines, which often reach the market as dry wines of medium strength but noticeable fullness. Sylvaner and Sauvignon Blanc are traditionally widespread sorts, much sought after in recent years, mostly due to their pleasant flowery and fruity bouquets. Gewurztraminer is usually used in the making of dessert wines. Late harvests, selected harvest and ice wines are most frequently made through the vinification of overripe grapes of this sort, a process which results in wines of exquisite

organoleptic characteristics - very aromatic (intensive aromas of honey and overripe, dry fruit), full-bodied and usually containing a lot of unfermented sugar. The less represented red sorts include the world famous Pinot Noir and Blauer Portugieser. The latter, a red variety, which has been cultivated here for a very long time, yields wines which usually reach the market very young. Many call it the Croatian Gamay Beaujolais, after French wines that reach the market in November of the harvest year. Blauer Portugieser has excellent characteristics and, as a young wine, it has been gaining a steady number of fans. Blauer Portugieser Days are organized in November to present this red variety to the public. In this way, local governments are trying to encourage the culture and enjoyment of young wines, already present in the neighbouring countries. They encourage its cultivation and, over the past few years, Zagreb County has launched an initiative to protect local wines as a local brand. The Pleπivica vineyards also feature some other autochthonous sorts, including Kraljevina, Plavec Æuti, ©ipelj Ranfol etc., but they are rarely viniﬁed individually. The area has a relatively large number of winemakers. Although the average vineyard is rather small, several family-owned wineries have developed into medium range production facilities over the last several years, with respectable production quantities for Croatian standards. Apart from the Mladina Cellars, which are part of the Agrokor Consortium (excellent Welschriesling, Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer), most of the production occurs in family-owned vineries. Among the most signiﬁcant (sought after and awarded wines) are those made by the Tomac family (excellent Chardonnay and Sauvignon, and as of recently, a rarity on the market - wine stored in amphora), and the Korak family (Chardonnay and Portugieser). Also worth mentioning are the wines produced by the following families: LediÊ (Portugieser, Pinot Noir, Gewurztraminer), and ©ember (Chardonnay, Portugieser), as well as several family cellars - Agro Reæek (Portugieser, Rizvanac), Zdravko Reæek (Sylvaner), KunoviÊ (Welschriesling, Chardonnay)… Many of the local winemakers produce special label and harvest wines. Over the last several years, most have also offered excellent sparkling wines, which according to many, are among the best on the Croatian market. The Pleπivica Wine Road, which was opened back in 2001, boasts beautiful vistas and an exquisite eno-gastronomic pleasure, including various traditional dishes and wines of the highest quality for all visitors and patrons to enjoy. CROATIA AIRLINES

ISTRA ISTRIA

Crni tartuﬁ / Black trufﬂes

… Srce mi je zadivljeno kad pomislim na veliko Ëudo koje se joπ kreÊe, u tiπini, zaokruæivπi me --- kao trajan posao Tvoje kreacije, zavrπene, a obnovljene Zauvijek. Zapisan u Tvojim djelima, proËitao sam pouku Tvoje vjeËnosti… /©umska himna, William Cullen Bryant/

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Piπe/By Goran Stojanović

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir Fabijanić

Buzet

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Galerija Harija Ivančića Mala vrata

Buzet 3D mural

Hari Ivančić Gallery

Hotel Vela vrata Vela Vrata Hotel

…My heart is in awe within me when I think Of the great miracle that still goes on, In silence, round me---the perpetual work Of thy creation, ﬁnished, yet renewed Forever. Written on thy works I read The lesson of thy own eternity… /A Forest Hymn, William Cullen Bryant/

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Buzet

Vela vrata

Buzet

Vela šterna

Svaki buzetski prizor, zanimljiv oku promatraËa, arkadijska je priËa. Ovdje se sreÊu slike skladne jednostavnosti: stari grad, vijugavi putovi, netaknuta priroda s mirisom opojnih livada i πuma, osobita povijest protkana tradicijom ljudskog zajedniπtva, obiËaja i dobrote, bogatstvo jedinstvene gastronomije...

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The eye of the beholder ďŹ nds beauty in every scene around Buzet, in this Arcadian tale which speaks for itself. What one encounters here are images of harmonious simplicity: an old town, meandering roads, untouched nature, meadows and forests giving off intoxicating fragrances; the area boasts a remarkable past, a tradition characterized by human unity, customs and goodness; and on top of that, there are culinary experiences second to none. 54

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Detalj buzetskog zvonika Detail of the Buzet bell-tower

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Stol Ćirila i Metoda u sklopu Aleje glagoljaša i Roč u pozadini Table of Constantine Cyril and Methodius as part of the Glagolitic Alley, and Roč in the background

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Crkva sv. Jeronima (Hum) Church of St. Jeronim (Hum)

Crkva sv. Jeronima (Hum) - detalj Church of St. Jerome (Hum) - detail

Crkva sv. Roka (Roč) Church of St. Rocco (Roč)

Crkva sv. Antuna Opata (Roč) - detalj Church of St. Anthony the Abbot (Roč) - detail

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Hum

Kotli

Hum

Marčanegla

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Kotli

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Roč

Vrh

Sovinjak

Obronci Ćićarije The hills of Ćićarija

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Vinogradi Paladini

Vinogradi Sv. Donat

Paladini Vineyards

St. Donat Vineyards

Vinogradi Paladini Paladini Vineyards

Vinar Adriano Ä&#x152;erneka Winemaker Adriano Ä&#x152;erneka

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Vinar Dimitri Brečević, podrum Piquentum Winemaker Dimitri Brečević, the Piquentum Basement

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Noan i Nevio Sirotić, restoran Toklarija Noan and Nevio Sirotić, Toklarija Restaurant

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Restoran Toklarija, Konoba Hum Toklarija Restaurant, Hum Wine Cellar

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Bijeli tartuﬁ White trufﬂes

Tabla dobrodošlice Welcome sign

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Crni tartuﬁ Black trufﬂes

Psi tragači za tartuﬁma Trufﬂe hounds

Jezero Butoniga Butoniga Lake

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Kotlovi u destileriji Aura Vats at the Aura Distillery

Stare masline Old olives

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Biljke za destilaciju Distillation plants

Masline i Vrh u pozadini Olives and Vrh in the background

stra je isprepletena obalama, slikovitim dolinama, brdima i πumama. U njoj je lako doseÊi osobne trenutke unutarnje cjelovitosti, mirnoÊe i ispunjenosti, posebice u jutranjim satima kada joj krajolici utonu u izmaglicu, polakao se bistreÊi u Ëiste horizonte obasjane suncem. U tom dijelu dana istarski krajolik izvornu ljepotu, potpuno i bez zadrπke, nesebiËno daruje gledatelju prizora. Njezini srednjovjekovni gradiÊi, zaseoci, kuÊe i stancije trajno odiπu puninom sjeÊanja koja æele nanovo oæivjeti, sebe iskazati, æivotom ispuniti. Blaga i dobroduπna, smjerna i ponizna, Istra pozdravlja sve dobronamjernike koji u njoj ostvaruju susret s joπ jednom slikom mistiËnoga i sasvim Ëudesnog Sredozemlja. Na dlanu doline rijeke Mirne, na njezinim livadama, njivama, terasama s vinogradima i voÊnjacima uoËljive su kuÊe s blagim krovovima. Sav taj krajolik gleda u jednu visinsku toËku, u Buzet i njegov stari grad koji se smjestio nad Ëunjastim brijegom iznad nizinske Fontane, njegova najveÊaga urbanog srediπta u kojemu pulsiraju æivotni sadræaji primjereni sadaπnjem vremenu. Stari Buzet sa srednjovjekovnim malim srediπtima nije samo grad na 150 metara visokom brijegu. On æivi na velikome i raznolikom prostoru izmeu tri udaljena urbana srediπta: Rijeke, Trsta i Pule, a nadmorsku je visinu razdijelio na visinske razine od 10 pa sve do 1000 m. Tako u nizinskoj dolini rijeke Mirne prevladava blaga mediteranska klima, a u planinskom dijelu ΔiÊarije, na tzv. Krovu Istre, sa πumama, travnjacima i paπnjacima, vlada kontinentalna, planinska klima koja ponekad djeluje u opreci dolinskom sestrom. Meu zidinama starog Buzeta, koji se tim nazivom krasi joπ od 804. godine, mnoge su palaËe i kuÊe. Taj grad doæivio je sva razdoblja druπtvenog razvitka, od pretpovijesnih vremena, preko dolaska i odlaska Ilira, Rimljana, Mletaka i Venecije, Austrije i Italije. U dolinu Mirne u 7. stoljeÊu posljedni stigoπe i Slaveni, Hrvati i Slovenci, koji ovdje otad i ostadoπe. KrËeÊi πume, gradili su terase, putove, vodene tokove, sazidali kuÊe, zasadili lozu i voÊke, zaorali njive. Sva su povijesna razdoblja ovdje ostavila spomenike vremena isprepletene u æivotopisan krajolik koji izgleda kao kakav πareni vrt prirodnih ljepota. Za vrijeme MletaËke Repubike na vrhovima breæuljka duæ Mirne te na obroncima ΔiÊarije nastalo je i niz vrlo malih urbanih sredina: Vrh, Sovinjak, RoË, Hum. OgraniËen æivotni prostor opasan zidinama i dominantni poloæaj kaπtela uvjetovao je njihov urbani razvoj. U to je vrijeme poloæena i urbana osnova grada Buzeta. Ovdje se nalazi i uporiπte glagoljice, najstarijega slavenskog pisma koje je sastavio Sv.

Δiril oko sredine 9. stoljeÊa, a koristilo se njime do poËetka uporabe latinice, u poËetku 19. stoljeÊa. Njome su tada pisane crkvene knjige, gradski statuti, klesani natpisi na kamenim ploËama, urezivane poruke na zvona i oslikane zidove crkava. NajjaËa uporiπta glagoljaπa, osim Hrvatskog primorja i otoka Krka, bila su upravo tu, u srcu Istre, u njezinom geografskom i duhovnom smislu, ovdje je nastao i glagoljaπki kraj s jedinstvenim spomenikom glagoljskoj kulturi i pismenosti, s Alejom glagoljaπa s jedanaest spomen-obiljeæja postavljenih uza sedamkilometarsku cestu izmeu RoËa, najznaËajnijeg srediπta hrvatske pismenosti i nakladniπtva na glagoljici, te Huma, najmanjega grada na svijetu, koji je taj epitet dobio unatoË vrlo malom broju stanovnika, ali uza sve potrebne oËuvane gradske institucije za upravne i javne djelatnosti. Stari grad Buzet promiπljeno je oblikovana cjelina koja je spuπtena i teËe hrptom brijega od sjevera prema jugu. Ona oku dopuπta uzlet u prostor veliËanstvenog leta nad prostranstvima istarskih dolina, posebice usmjerenih na blagoliki krajolik Buzeπtine. S dvojim gradskim vratima, Vela i Mala, te Ëetiri trga meusobno spojena trima gradskim ulicama, cjelina je vrijedna divljenja. Od ulaza na zapadnoj strani prema istoku, gdje se na stijeni u sklopu gradskih zidina uzdizala crkva zaπtitnika grada sv. Jurja, pruæaju se paralelne ulice uz koje se niæu kuÊe. Vijugave ulice i puteljci upuÊuju dolaznike u skrivene zakutke, koji zavrπetak nalaze u obzorjima osobito lijepih krajolika što okruæuju Buzet. Ulaskom u grad moæe se osjetiti vibracija tradicije i bogatstvo povijesti ovog kraja. Ovdje, u zidu do palaËe Bigatto, godine 1755. postavljen je i kameni sanduËiÊ, nazvan Lavlja usta, u koji su nezadovoljni graani Serenissime ili, sluæbeno zvane, Presvijetle Republike Venecije mogli anonimno ubaciti prijavu protiv nekoga sluæbenika, vlasti ili susjeda. Mnoπtvo palaËa i kuÊa u starom Buzetu odaju dojam renesansnoga i baroknog stila. Venecijanski kapetani, Ëiji grbovi i danas krase brojne gradske spomenike, u to su vrijeme poduzimali opseæne javne zahvate. Patriciji i imuÊnije gradsko stanovniπtvo podizali su niz renesansnih i baroknih palaËa, a gradske crkve doæivljavaju radikalne promjene. Na mjestu stare crkve sv. Jurja u poËetku 17. st. gradi se nova, a župna crkva Uznesenja Marijina podiæe se potkraj 18. st. na mjestu dotadaπnje. Njezin sadaπnji zvonik sagraen je stoljeÊe poslije. Godine 1789. u Buzetu se poduzima i impresivan komunalni zahvat, gradnja velike javne cisterne, Vela πterne. Grad se u 18. i 19. st. otvara prema obzorju kada se na bedemima podiæu raskoπne palaËe, a podno njih ureuju vrtovi i πetaliπta.

Mirisi su dio nezaobilaznoga doæivljaja, koji osvajaju posjetitelje Buzeπtine. Ovdje je rijeka Mirna, osvajaju drvoredi topola, dotiËe vas miris ljekovitog bilja s livada punih cvijeÊa, osvajaju hrastove πume, umiruje lahor humusa s obraenih polja. Ipak, ovdje je najvaænije osjetiti neposredni ljudski kontakt, ljubaznost mjeπtana, njihovu iskrenu dobroduπnost. Nenametljivo, ali s radoπÊu domaÊini Êe vam pokazati osobitost zaviËaja u kojemu æive, i uvijek vas doËekati iskrenom dobrodoπlicom. Ovdje se sreÊa iskazuje u malim stvarima, koje u dodiru s ljudima ovog kraja ostaju u dugom sjeÊanju, u pruæenoj ruci nenametljive gostoljubivosti. Istra je zemlja dobrih ljudi, a stanovnici Buzeπtine to potvruju nesputanom i iskrenom komunikacijom. Ovaj grad naziva se joπ i Gradom tartufa. Ovdje se, posebice na podruËju doline rijeke Mirne i Motovunske πume, u staniπtima hrasta medunca i bijelog jasena nalaze mnoga nalaziπta crnoga te velikoga bijelog tartufa, koji su postali jedan od simbola Istre i njezina gastronomskog bogatstva. Tartuf je Mozart meu gljivama, rekao je jednom Gioachino Rossini, poznati talijanski skladatelj. ToËnije, tartuf je, netko kaže, i pomalo ruæan plod duπe zemlje, koji veÊ stoljeÊima izaziva nepca onih koji znaju uæivati u gastronomiji i æivotu. I, takav, on predstavlja veliËanstvo istarske gastronomije, snaænog karakteristiËnog mirisa i okusa. U svijetu uspijeva na podruËju Italije i Francuske, ovdje u Hrvatskoj, posebice u Istri. Na stolovima poznatih, spominje se joπ u vrijeme Babilonaca 3700. godine pr. Kr., egipatskog faraona Keopsa 2600. godine pr. Kr., grËkog ﬁlozofa Plutarha, francuskog kralja Luja XIV… Kako tartuf svoja plodiπta razvija i skriva pod zemljom, unatoË intenzivnome mirisu nije ga lako naÊi bez posebno dresiranog psa. U πume se, od rujna do sijeËnja svake godine, u pronalazak bijelog tartufa odlazi rano ujutro, kada je πuma tiha i kada mirisi nisu preintenzivni. Pronalazak tartufa uvijek ostvaruje radost u tartufara, koji ga zatim na niz naËina gastronomski dijeli s ljubiteljima te delicije u kombinaciji s lokalnim vinima, malvazijom ili teranom. Kao najveÊi centar tartufarstva, Buzet je u 1999. godini proglaπen i Gradom tartufa, u kojemu su izvrsna staniπta u pritocima rijeka koje se ondje granaju, te poglavito u dolini rijeke Mirne. U Motovunskoj πumi, iste godine Giancarlo Zigante pronaπao je tartuf teæak 1,31 kg, koji je veliËinom ostvario pravo na ulazak i u svjetski Guinness. Na podruËju Buzeπtine, tartuﬁma u Ëast, organiziraju se i jedinstvene gurmanske manifestacije; u poËetku rujna, kada Buzet slavi svoj Dan grada − odræava se Subotina, CROATIA AIRLINES

Pogled iz Sovinjaka na dolinu Mirne i Ćićariju u daljini Sovinjak, a view of the Mirna Valley and Ćićarija in the distance

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manifestacija u kojoj se mogu Ëuti sviraËi tradicionalnih instrumenata, posjetiti muzej s lijepo ureenim etno postavama te na trgu okusiti dio divovske fritade spremljene od više nego viπe tisuÊa jaja i s nekoliko kilograma tartufa. Bela nedeja organizira se u poËetku listopada u nedalekom Sovinjaku s posebno organiziranim sajmom na kojem se nude tartuﬁ i domaÊi med, maslinovo ulje i drugi autohtoni proizvodi tog kraja. U početku studenog svake godine Buzet je nanovo rezerviran za Vikend tartufa. Toga prvog vikenda u mjesecu sve je podreeno svim aspektima u tartufarstvu, kao πto je pronalazak tartufa u prirodi, sajam, gastronomija, πkola kuhanja… Ovdje, vrijedi napomenuti, gastronomija ne poËinje i ne zavrπava tartuﬁma. I πparoge su dio gastronomske tradicije koja se osvjeæava svakog proljeÊa osobitoπÊu gastronomskog uæitka, u kojemu se spaja gorkast okus divljih πparoga s domaÊim maslinovim uljem, prπutom i jajima. Buzetski okusi svakako se pamte. U njima je dobroduπnost domaÊina, kvalitetno i tradicionalno pripremljena hrana, izvrsna vina. Taj je grad sa svojim krajolicima sasvim sigurno i svojevrsni etnografski kutak, æivuÊi muzej s graanima kustosima. Ovdje kruæe informacije i sjeÊanja, kazuju se osobite zgode iz davne ili bliæe proπlosti. Tako u selu Saleæ i danas stoji Stup srama, u kamenom obliku ljudske osobe. Starosjedioci ga zovu joπ i Berlin po berlini, vrsti koËije koja je nekada vozila na relaciji Berlin − Pariz, i na kojima su se, prema predaji, kaænjenici izvrgavali ruglu. Stup je isklesan u kamenolomima ispod Zrenja, a predstavlja goli ljudski lik s kapom na glavi. Lijevu ruku vidljivo dræi na prsima, gdje se nekada nalazio lanac za vezivanje kaænjenika. Na taj stup vezane su osobe koje su poËinile neki veÊi neËasan Ëin te su i tako, na stupu srama, bile i javno osramoÊene. Osobitost ljepote svoje etnografske baπtine Buzet iskazuje replikom Buzetske nauπnice koja se pojavila u sjevernoj Istri izmeu Buzeta i zapadne obale, u grobovima ranosrednjovjekovnoga stanovniπtva izmeu 7. i 8. stoljeÊa. Njezina decentnost danas se istiËe srebrnom replikom izraenom kao autohtoni buzetski suvenir. Vode koje teku rijekom Mirnom osjeÊaju se u zraku Buzeπtine. Izvor sv. Ivana, jezero Butoniga ispunjavaju snagom i dodiruju bijelu, sivu i crvenu istarsku zemlju. ©um vode na slapovima i mlinovima starih vodenica u Kotlima, nekada najjaËem selu na Humπtini s poznatim mlinarima, i danas se Ëuje. Tamoπnji mlin joπ odolijeva vremenu i zanosno istiËe Kotle kao posebnost ljepote ruralne sredine tog kraja.

Ovdje se æivi u prostoru koji ljude nije odvojio od drugih ljudi, nego ih je uputio i na njih same. Gradovima u Istri pripisuju se ljudske osobine i raspoloæenja: usamljenost, radiπnost, nadahnutost, siromaπtvo, blaæenost, iπËekivanje. Grad Buzet odiπe sjeÊanjem na minula doba te poziva na svijet u kojemu snaga æivota snaænije ispunjava titraje ulica i kuÊa. Snaæan osjeÊaj povezanosti u ljepoti je buzetske arhitekture, u æivotnosti prostora koji, unatoË vremenu, joπ pulsira bez zastajanja, onako po svojemu, ustrajno u dobrome.

stria is a medley of shores, picturesque valleys, hills and forests. It helps one reach personal moments of inner wholeness, tranquility and fulfilment, particularly during the morning hours when the Istrian countryside is immersed in the morning haze, which slowly clears away to reveal a picture of clean horizons saturated in the sun. During that part of the day, a beholder of Istrian landscapes can delight in their unique beauty, fully and without reservation. Its medieval towns, hamlets, houses and stantias are full of memories, which long to be revived, to be able to express and fill themselves with life. Friendly and benevolent, deprecating and humble, Istria greets all wellminded people who come here to experience an encounter with yet another brim of the mystical and wholly-enchanting Mediterranean. One can make out houses with gently sloping roofs on the palm of the Mirna River Valley, on its meadows, fields, terraces overlooking vineyards and orchards. The entire countryside points to an elevated point, Buzet, a coneshaped old town towering above the low-lying Fontana, and the biggest urban centre in the area, where life pulsates in accordance with modern-day conveniences. Old Buzet, with its small medieval centres, is not just a 150-metre-high hilltop town. This diverse area is spread out among three distant urban centres: Rijeka, Trieste and Pula, while its height above sea level is divided into various levels ranging from 10 to 1000 metres. The low-lying valley of the Mirna Valley boasts a mild Mediterranean climate, while the mountainous region of ΔiÊarija, the so-called Roof of Istria, its forests, meadows and pastures, are dominated by a continental, mountainous climate, which sometimes acts contrary to its lower-lying sister. Many palaces and houses are squeezed within the walls of old Buzet, which has borne this name since 804. This town has experienced all of the different ages of social development, starting with pre-history, the arrival and departure of Illyrians, Romans,

Venetians, Austria and Italy. The last to arrive in the Mirna Valley, in the 7th century, were the Slavs, Croats and Slovenians, who have remained ever since. They cleared the land and built terraces, roads, waterways; they built houses, planted vineyards and fruit trees, and they ploughed the land. All historical periods have left their mark as a testament to the past times in the picturesque countryside, reminiscent of a colourful garden full of natural beauties. During Venetian rule, a string of small urban settlements sprung up on the hilltops along the Mirna River and on the slopes of ΔiÊarija: Vrh, Sovinjak, RoË, Hum. Confined living spaces, surrounded by walls and the dominant positions of those castles, both had an impact on urban development. It was at that time that the urban foundations of the town of Buzet were laid. Buzet was the stronghold of Glagolitic script, which was in use from the beginning of the 9th century, when it was designed by Constantine Cyril, until the beginning of the 19th century, when Latinic script took over. Until then, the Glagolitic alphabet was used in church books and town statues, for carvings on headstones, messages on church bells and decorations on church walls. The main Glagolitic strongholds, besides settlements along the Croatian littoral and the Island of Krk, were in the heart of Istria, both in the geographic and spiritual sense of the word. This was a true Glagolitic land, as seen by the Glagolitic Alley, a unique monument to Glagolitic culture and literacy. It features a string of eleven outdoor monuments, dotting the 7-kilometre-long road between RoË, the most significant centre of the Croatian Glagolitic literacy and publishing and Hum. Despite the small population figures, the latter is officially a town - the smallest town in the world at that, with all the requisite administrative and public institutions. The old town of Buzet was built according to a well thought-out plan; it is seductively lowered and flows along the hilltop ridge from the north to the south. It allows the eye to delight in the magnificent flight over the expanse of Istrian valleys and the eye-pleasing Buzet countryside. With its two town gates, Big and Small, and four squares connected by three town streets, it constitutes an urban nucleus worthy of anyone’s admiration. From the entrance in the west, an eastbound street leads to a rock where the Church of St. George, the town’s patron saint, used to stand. A raster of parallel streets lined with houses extends from there. Winding streets and paths lead visitors to hidden nooks and crannies at the end of which, one can observe the horizon CROATIA AIRLINES

and the particularly beautiful countryside around Buzet. The vibration of tradition and the wealth of history this region has to offer can be felt as soon as one enters the town. One wall of the Bigatto Palace features a stone mailbox, which was placed there in 1755, and named the Lion’s Mouth. Any disgruntled citizen of La Serenissima, the most serene Republic of Venice, could use it to anonymously complain against a civil servant, a member of the government or a neighbour. Many palaces and houses in old Buzet were built in the Renaissance and Baroque styles. Venetian captains, whose coats of arms still adorn monuments around the town, were engaged in capital public works at the time. Patricians and well-to-do citizens built a number of Renaissance and Baroque palaces, while churches around the town experienced radical changes. A new church was erected in the 17th century to replace the former Church of St. George, whereas the parish church of the Assumption of Our Lady was erected in the 18th century, again in the place where the old parish church used to stand. The present-day belfry was added to it a century later. In 1789, Buzet was a stage of impressive communal works, resulting in the construction of a big public water-well. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the town opened towards the horizon and the walls became the building site of lavish palaces with gardens and promenade parks below them. Fragrances are an inevitable part of the experience which wins over the hearts of Buzet visitors. Mist above the Mirna River descends upon the town, and alleys of poplar trees seduce the eye; you are touched by the scent coming from medicinal plants in meadows dotted with flowers; oak forests inspire awe while the breath of fragrant air, coming from the humus on the arable land, soothes the senses. However, the most important thing to experience here is the kindness and sincere goodness of the locals. Unobtrusively yet with a lot of inner joy, your hosts will show you the distinctiveness of their homeland and always greet you with a sincere welcome. Here, happiness lies in small things, a get together with the locals, an extended hand of discrete hospitality, and these small things live in your memory for a long time. Istria is a land of good people and Buzet confirms it, with its unbridled and sincere communication. Buzet is also known as Truffle Town. Habitats of black and white truffle, which have become one of the symbols of Istria and its gastronomic wealth, can be found in the val72

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ley of the Mirna River and in Motovun Forest, growing underground below Downy Oak and European Ash trees. In the words of Gioachino Rossini, a famous Italian composer, truffle is the Mozart among mushrooms. More precisely, some will say that truffle is the somewhat ugly fruit of the soul of the Earth. For centuries, it has tantalized the palates of those who enjoy food and life. Characterised by a peculiar smell and taste, it represents the magnificence of Istrian gastronomy. It can be found growing in Italy and France and in Croatia, particularly in Istria. It has been present on the dining tables of the good and the great for a long time: it was enjoyed during the Babylonian era, 3700 years B.C., by the Egyptian pharaoh Keos, 2600 years B.C., by Greek Philosopher Plutarch, and by King of France, Louis XIV... Truffle habitats are underground, therefore, despite their intense smell, they are hard to find without the help of a trained dog. From September until January, truffle hunters go into the woods very early in the morning when the wood is all quiet and when smells are not too intense. Finding a truffle always gives the truffle hunter great joy. He, then, prepares it in a number of ways to share this delicacy with truffle lovers who like to wash it down with some local wines, Malvasia or Teran. As the biggest centre of the truffle industry, in 1999, Buzet was proclaimed Truffle Town. Truffle have habitats in the tributaries of the rivers which abound there, particularly in the valley of the Mirna River. That same year, in Motovun Forest, Giancarlo Zigante found a truffle weighing 1.31 kilos and made it into the Guinness Book of World Records. Unique culinary events are organized in the Buzet region to honour the truffle: the Subotina Festival is held at the beginning of September, when Buzet celebrates its day and offers visitors the opportunity to hear musicians of traditional instruments, visit the local museum with an exquisite ethnographic exhibition and then, head for the main square and have a bite of a gigantic frittata, which comprises over a thousand eggs and several kilos of truffles. The Bela Nedeja (White Sunday) event is organized at the beginning of October in nearby Sovinjak as a local fair, which offers truffles, honey, olive oil and other local produce. At the beginning of November, every year, Buzet is, again, host to the Truffle Weekend. The first weekend of the month everything revolves around truffles - finding them in nature, the fair, gastronomy, a cooking school… It should be noted that the local gastronomy does not begin or end with truffles. Asparagus

is also part of the culinary tradition. Every spring, this gastronomic delight is offered in different and special ways, the bitter flavour of wild asparagus is combined with local olive oil, prosciutto and eggs. The flavours of Buzet are certainly remembered. They remind us of the good-heartedness of the hosts, the food prepared in a traditional way and excellent wines. This town and its environs are most certainly an ethnographic corner of sorts, a living museum with all its citizens as curators. Information and memories circle around; special tales from a distant and not-so-distant past are gladly shared. In the village of Saleæ, one can still see the Column of Shame, a stone structure carved in the shape of a human being. Old timers sometimes refer to it as Berlin, after the coach that used to run between Berlin and Paris. Legend has it that convicts were put to shame on it. Another column stands in the stone quarries below Zrenje. It depicts a naked body with a hat on its head. Its left hand is placed prominently on its chest, arguably in the place where chains were tied around a convict’s body. Those who had committed a dishonourable act were chained to this column and thus, exposed to public shame. One of the showpieces of the ethnographic heritage of Buzet is a replica of the Buzet earring. The original appeared between the 7th and the 8th centuries in the early medieval graves scattered all over Northern Istria between Buzet and the western coast. A remarkable unpretentiousness is the best feature of the silver replica, which is sold as an original souvenir of Buzet. The water that flows down the Mirna River can be felt in the air of the Buzet region. It fills the source of St. John and Butoniga Lake with power and touches the white, gray and red Istrian soil. The murmur of water on the cascades and mills of the old watermills in Kotle, once the most powerful village in the Hum region, can still be heard. The local watermill defies time and rapturously showcases Kotle as a special beauty of this rural area. This is the kind of countryside which does not distance people, but rather inspires them to lean on each other. Istrian towns are often assigned human traits and moods: loneliness, industriousness, inspiration, poverty, placidity, expectation. The town of Buzet exudes memories of a past time and conjures up a world in which the power of life fills the streets and houses with even more power. The powerful feeling of connection is present in the beauty of Buzet’s architecture, in the vitality of an area, which still pulsates without faltering, as it pleases, persistently good.

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TRADICIJA TRADITION

Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Davor Rostuhar

T Autor plakata - Boris Ljubičić / Poster design by Boris Ljubičić

radicija ne umire, baπ naprotiv, svake je godine sve jaËa, a ove godine slavio se tristoti jubilej. Alka se ljetos igrala u spomen na slavnu bitku 1715. godine, u kojoj su malobrojni Sinjani nadjaËali viπestruko brojniju osmanlijsku vojsku, u Ëemu im je, kako svi mjeπtani vjeruju, Ëudom pomogla Gospa. Otad se u slavu junaËke pobjede odræava ovo konjiËko nadmetanje, svojim obilježjima sliËno viteπkim igrama kakve su se Ëesto odigravale na srednjovjekovnom Sredozemlju. Svake godine srce Sinjana tuËe jaËe na dan alke, kad nakon mnogo išËekivanja s vrha ulice napokon na scenu stupi povorka alkara. Prije 130 godina knjiæevnik Dinko ©imunoviÊ to je opisao u slavnoj knjizi Alkar: ...GledajuÊi u æaru kolovoπkog sunca povorku alkara na Ëilim konjima, ne vidiπ drugo do prelijevanja barπuna i svile, pak blijesak zlata i srebra. A kakvi su sve to momci, neki visoki i πiroki kao planine, da se zemlja pod njima trese, a drugi vitki i okretni da bi tri konja preskoËili ujedanput. No svi miπiÊavi, vatrena oka i junaËkoga dræanja da bi snjima udario i na Ëitavu vojsku...

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VeÊ tristo godina poËetak kolovoza uzbudljivo je razdoblje u Sinju. Svakog ljeta bara i Ëoja zagrijavaju atmosferu i najavljuju alku, posljednju viteπku igru tog tipa oËuvanu na Sredozemlju, koju je nedavno zaπtitio Unesco kao nematerijalnu svjetsku baπtinu. Sve kulminira za Gospu, krπÊanski blagdan koji se utkao u tkivo poboænoga sinjskog naroda. For the last three hundred years, the beginning of August has been an exciting time in Sinj. Every year the Bara and the »oja equestrian tournaments heat up the atmosphere heralding the Alka, the last wellpreserved equestrian tournament of its kind in the Mediterranean that has recently been protected by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. Everything escalates on the Day of Assumption, a Christian holiday that has been ﬁrmly woven into the fabric of the pious people of Sinj. CROATIA AIRLINES

Kamen s prvim spomenom grada Sinja The ﬁrst stone carving with mention of Sinj

Pogled iz Sinja na cetinski kraj prema Biokovu View of the Cetina area towards Biokovo taken from Sinj

Sinjsko polje

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Ni danas nije drugaËije. Na Ëelu povorke stupa harambaπa, a za njim tridesetak alkarskih momaka odjevenih u raskoπnu narodnu noπnju, u hlaËe od plavog sukna, bijelu koπulju i crveni prsluk. Za pojasom pripaπnjaËom zataknuta su im dva starinska piπtolja - kubure i noæ jatagan, a preko ramena joπ prebaËena puπka kremenjaËa. Æustroga, gordog koraka, gustog brka i oπtrog pogleda snaæno evociraju herojstvo svojih pradjedova. Za njima stupaju trubaËi i bubnjari, a njih slijede barjaktar i pratioci s isukanim sabljama. Iza njih stupaju nosioci trofeja osvojenih u slavnoj bitki protiv Osmanlija: πtitonoπa, buzdovandæija i dvojica momaka, koji za uzde vode konja edeka. Taj je konj prekriven starinskom opremom, za koju se vjeruje da je pripadala Mehmed-paπi »eliÊu, osmanlijskom vojskovoi iz vremena opsade Sinja. Taj konj kojega vode razapetoga bez jahaËa, u oËima sinjskog naroda postao je simbol osmanlijskog poraza pod Sinjem. Naposljetku dolaze junaËki vitezovi: alkarikonjanici, odjeveni u izvorno ruho sinjskih branitelja s poËetka 18. stoljeÊa: na glavi im je πubara od krzna kune, ukraπena Ëapljinim perom, na nogama Ëizme s mamuzama, a gaÊe i dolama od najboljega su modrog sukna − Ëoje, izvezene srebrnim ukrasima i kopËane zlatnim ﬁligranskim ploËicama. U ruci dræe dugaËko koplje, a o boku objeπena im je sablja. U pojavi alkara sadræan je ideal sinjskog Ëovjeka, objaπnjavaju Sinjani. U mekoÊi sukna i ËvrstoÊi sablje, u mirnoÊi i sigurnosti jahaËa na plemenitome i posluπnom konju ogleda se Ëovjek ponosan i stamen, okrenut duhovnosti i viteπtvu. Alkarom moæe biti samo poπten Sinjanin, nesklon porocima i nekaænjavan, odan vojvodi i Ëasnom sudu, vjeran Gospi i Bogu. Vremena se mijenjaju, s njima i povijesne i druπtvene okolnosti, ali taj ideal ostaje nepromijenjen. Povorka zastaje ispred sveËane tribine, izmjenjuju se govori s posebnim uzvanicima − dræavnim i crkvenim vrhom. Kroz cijelu povijest alke, od cara Franje Josipa preko Aleksandra KaraoreviÊa, Tita, doktora Franje Tumana, do danas, svakome je visokom dræavniku bila Ëast pojaviti se na alki, objaπnjavaju Sinjani. Prolazile su dræave, mijenjali se vladari, a alka je tako dugo opstala jer uvijek se prilagoavala promjenama. Dræala se svoje tradicije, ali i poπtivala druge, kaæu. Nakon protokolarnog uvoda poËinje natjecanje. Viteπki alkari na zvuk trube, jedan po jedan, jure konjem niz 160 metara dugaËku stazu da bi u punom galopu pokuπali kopljem pogoditi alku u sridu. Alka je kolut od kovanog æeljeza promjera 13 cm, a dijeli se na manji kolut promjera samo 3 cm i tri druga polja. Tko pogodi u taj mali kolut − u sridu − nosi 3

punta, u polje iznad njega 2 punta, a u dva polja sa strane 1 punat. Tko skupi najviπe punata, pobjeuje i odnosi slavu. Upisuje se u povijest kao u tvrd kamen. I zasluæuje tu Ëast da tjedan dana poslije u velikoj procesiji nosi sliku Gospe. Izmeu alke i Gospe Sinj je pun ljudi i stalno se neπto dogaa, ali preko dana cijeli kraj utone u lijeni ritam prikladan sredini ljeta. I danas to se doima isto kao i onoga ljeta Gospodnjega prije viπe od stoljeÊa, kada je Dinko ©imunoviÊ zapisao: ...Golemo Sinjsko polje na æarkom ljetnom suncu Ëinilo se joπ veÊe jer modruπasta maglica sakrivaπe oËima udaljene bregove. Sve je mirovalo u podnevnom æaru, a daleke, daleke kamene planine jaËe se modrile vireÊi nepomiËno iza te niske i tanke maglice. »inilo se da je cijela Krajina u raskoπnu ljetnom snu ili kao da poËiva nakon ljute borbe i izvrπena junaπtva... IšËekuje se Gospa, ali bez æurbe. Sinjanima su tih dana kuÊe pune rodbine i prijatelja. Taj je tjedan, izmeu alke i Gospe, praznik, onakav kakav bi trebao biti. Sinj tada kao da πalje poruku svijetu kako da se odmori i posveti bitnim stvarima. Sinj se smjestio usred krπevite Dalmatinske zagore, uza zapadni rub prostranoga sinjskog polja koje natapa Cetina i tako Ëini plodnim i bogatim. Povoljne zemljopisne prilike i poloæaj na raskrsnicama putova iz dalmatinskog zalea i Bosne prema obali, od koje je udaljen samo tridesetak kilometara, utjecali su na to da se ovdje razvije æivot joπ u neolitiku. U antiËko doba na podruËju oko Sinja nalazila su se rimska naselja i sela domorodaËkoga delmatskoga, ilirskog plemena Osinijata, odakle potjeËe i ime Sinja. Tijekom 6. i 7. stoljeÊa ovdje je bila bizantska utvrda, a podno nje nekoliko ranokrπÊanskih crkava. Hrvati su u Cetinsku krajinu doπli u 10. stoljeÊu, a u kasnom srednjem vijeku Sinjem su vladale hrvatske velikaπke obitelji, NelipÊiÊi, Frankopani i Talovci. Od druge polovice 15. stoljeÊa Sinj se nalazio pod stalnom prijetnjom Osmanlija, koji su ga napokon osvojili 1516. godine, nakon Ëega je izgubio svoju strateπku vaænost, a domicilno je stanovniπtvo napustilo taj kraj zbog loπih uvjeta æivota i visokog osmanlijskog zuluma. Osmanlijskog jarma Sinj su 1686. godine oslobodili Mleci, koji su u opustjeli cetinski kraj pokuπali primamiti stanovniπtvo iz zapadne Bosne i Hercegovine. Godine 1687. tu su u masovnoj seobi doπli ljudi iz Rame, Poljica, Livna i Duvna, voeni fratrima, i sa sobom donijeli sve πto su imali, izmeu ostaloga i Ëudotvornu sliku Majke od Milosti, rad nepoznatog mletaËkog majstora iz 16. stoljeÊa. No Osmanlije su i dalje prijetili, a 1715.g. Mehmed-paπa »eliÊ nasrnuo je na Sinj sa 60 000 vojnika. Franjevci su poveli svjetinu

velike kuge u 18. stoljeÊu. Takoer dive se tome što je slika Gospe jedina preæivjela velik potres u kojemu je sruπena cijela crkva. Kult Gospe æiv je i danas. NoÊ uoËi Velike Gospe, blagdana Uznesenja Blaæene Djevice Marije, cestama i poljskim putovima koji vode u Sinj stupaju tisuÊe hodoËasnika. Neki od njih pjeπaËe izdaleka. Hodaju cijele noÊi u kolonama, a u zoru okupljaju se na vrhu breæuljka ponad Sinja, odakle se, vjeruju, Ëudotvorna Gospa ukazala osmanlijskim vojnicima, unijela im strah u kosti i rastjerala ih kako bi spasila Sinj i njegove ljude. Spuπtaju se zatim do Gospinoga svetiπta, crkve u središtu Sinja, i prisustvuju sveËanoj svetoj misi, nakon koje fratri s oltara skinu poznatu, Ëudotvornu sliku Gospe okrunjene

u zavjetno zlato njenih vjernika, postave je na postolje te krenu u dugaËku procesiju. Postolje nose slavodobitnici alke, a prvi meu njima, ovogodiπnji. Polagano i sveËano hodaju ulicama Sinja, sve dok ih ne zamijene druga Ëetiri ramena. Malo-pomalo svoje rame daju Gospi svi koji su uzoritim æivotom zasluæili Ëast da je pronesu... Vidno ganut puk gura se prema slici i pokuπava je dotaknuti za sreÊu. Ljudi sa strane i s prozora i balkona podno kojih je prolazila procesija bacaju prema slici stotine ruæinih latica. OËi mnogih cakle se od suza, a svako malo Ëuje se ushiÊeno zapomaganje Gospe moja.... Rijeka poboænih Sinjana odluËnim i sveËanim korakom taba put iz daleke proπlosti u nepoznatu buduÊnost. ∑ Alka se u srednjem vijeku igrala svuda... i u

B. Ljubičić

unutar zidina utvrenoga grada na breæuljku, a sa sobom i sliku Majke od Milosti. Sinjana je bilo samo 700 ali nisu pristali predati grad, nego su ga odluËili braniti do kraja. Predaja dalje kaæe kako su Osmanlije opsjedali grad nekoliko dana, a pobjeda se Ëinila neupitna. No, u noÊi sa 14. na 15. kolovoza Osmanlije su ugledali bijelu Gospu koja poput utvare lebdi iznad zidina i ulijeva im strah u kosti. Vojsku je te noÊi pogodio neprotumaËiv strah, a Ëini se i srdobolja − dizenterija od koje su odmah stali umirati. Preæivjeli su paniËno pobjegli, ostavili iza sebe 10 000 poginulih Osmanlija i golem ratni plijen, a Osmanlije nakon toga viπe nikad nisu opsjedali Sinj! Koliko je u toj priËi povijesne istine, nije toËno poznato, ali Ëinjenica je da su se Sinjani otad predali Gospi kao svojoj zaπtitnici i poËeli joj se moliti i zavjetovati. Odmah su prikupili zlatni nakit, a MleËani su od njega iskovali krunu kojom su sveËano okrunili Gospinu sliku 1716. godine. Tada su sinjski vitezovi oæivjeli dotad obamrlu srednjovjekovnu igru alku te je, u Ëast Gospi i u spomen slavnoj bitki, odluËili igrati svake godine. Tijekom iduÊih stoljeÊa Sinjani su doživjeli brojne nesreÊe: ratovi, potresi, kuga, kolera, glad, ali kult Gospe nije nestao. ©toviπe, jaËao je zbog brojnih priËa o Ëudima. Sinjani vjeruju da su svi koji su se zavjetovali Gospi izbjegli

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Buzdovandæija Man with a mace

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Alkari vjeĂŚbaju na hipodromu Alka contestants practicing at the hippodrome

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Knjiænica franjevaËkog samostana The Franciscan Monastery Library

SveËana procesija Gospe Sinjske A solemn procession on the Day of Assumption

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Makarskoj, Splitu, Zadru, Istri i izvan Hrvatske, po cijelom Sredozemlju ∑ kaæu Sinjani. ∑ Ali samo se tu odræala, i to zbog Gospe. Zbog neraskidive veze izmeu alke i Gospe.

Utvrda KamiËak The KamiËak Fortress

Glavna sinjska pjaca The main square in Sinj

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his old tradition has not waned; on the contrary, it grows stronger by the year. This year, the three-hundredth jubilee of the Alka paid homage to a famous battle which took place in 1715, when the few Sinj fighters overpowered a much stronger Ottoman army with the miraculous help of no other, but Our Lady herself. At least, this is what all the locals believe. Ever since, the glorious victory has been commemorated with this equestrian tournament, which is very similar in nature to the chivalrous games previously commonplace in the Mediterranean. Every year, the hearts of Sinj citizens beat faster on the day of the Alka while they anticipate the Alka knight procession to appear at the top of the street after a very emotional build-up. As far back as 130 years ago, novelist, Dinko ©imunoviÊ, described the scene in his famous book Alka Knight: When looking at the Alka procession of competitors on their fine horses, you don’t see anything else, but the glimmering of velvet and silk, and the shine of gold and silver. And what awesome lads those are, some tall and wide as the mountains, so that the earth beneath them thunders, and others, slim and agile, so they can jump across three horses in just one leap. But all of them with strong muscles, fiery eyes and heroic posture, ready to take on the whole army… Nothing has changed to this very day. The procession is led by the arambasha (Turkish: harami bas¸ı = commander of the haramis, a special military group; leader of the hayduks, or rebels), followed by some thirty Alka squires clad in lavish national costumes - blue canvas trousers, white shirts and red vests. They carry two antique pistols, the so-called kubura and a knife - a yatag˘an on their belts and flint rock rifles on their shoulders. Walking proudly, with a sharp look and thick moustaches, they strongly evoke the heroism of their forefathers. Drummers and trumpeters march behind them, followed by a flag bearer and companions with their sabres out. Behind them step the bearers of the trophies won in the glorious battle against the Osmanlis: shield bearer, mace bearer and two boys leading a horse called edek covered in antique equipment believed to have belonged to Mehmed-Pasha »eliÊ, an Ottoman army leader from the times of the Siege of Sinj. The horse nobody rides has become the symbol of Ottoman defeat at the Siege of Sinj.

At the end of the procession march, the heroic knights themselves, Alka horseback riders, are clad in the authentic attire of Sinj’s defenders from the early 18th century: weasel fur hats decorated with herons’ feathers, boots with spurs, trousers and shirts made out of the finest blue canvas - Ëoja, hand sewn with silver ornaments and buttoned with golden filigree plates. They hold long spears in their hands and sabres hang from their waists. The appearance of competitors at the Alka epitomizes the ideal image of men from Sinj; the softness of the canvas and toughness of the sabre, the calmness and assuredness of a rider on a noble and obedient horse, all convey the image of a resolute and proud man, open to spirituality and knighthood. Only an honest citizen of Sinj, free from vices and with a clean record, loyal to the duke and the court of honour, faithful to Our Lady and to God, can compete in the Alka tournament. Times have changed and so have historical and social circumstances, but that ideal has remained the same. The procession stops in front of the VIP box where the Alka leaders exchange a few formal words of greeting with special guests -state and church dignitaries. Throughout the whole of Alka history, every statesman, from the Austro-Hungarian King Franz Joseph to Aleksandar KaraoreviÊ, Tito, and Doctor Franjo Tuman, has taken great pride in making an appearance at the Alka tournament! Countries and rulers have changed…, but the Alka has survived because it has adapted to those changes. It has held to its tradition, but it has also respected others, according to the locals of Sinj. The protocol introductions behind them, the competitors are ready to engage in battle. When the trumpet sounds, one by one the Alka knights race their horses down a 160-meter-long track and at full gallop try to hit the centre of the alka. The alka is a ring of wrought iron, about 13 centimetres in diameter, divided into one small ring just 3 centimetres in diameter with three other fields around it. A hit in the centre of the alka (srida) is worth three points; the field right above it is worth 2 points, while the two side fields are worth one point each. The Alka competitor who scores the highest number of points wins both the competition and the glory. His name goes down in history as if carved in stone. And he deserves the honour of carrying the painting of Our Lady in a grand procession which takes place a week later. Sinj is riddled with crowds of people during the week between the Alka tournament and the Day of Assumption. There is constantly

something going on. However, during midday, the whole area falls into a slow, lazy rhythm in sync with the heat of the summer. Things have changed little since Dinko ©imunoviÊ wrote more than a century ago: …The huge Sinj field seemed even greater under the blazing summer sun as the bluish mist concealed the distant hills from view. Everything was calm in the midday heat, and the distant mountains of stone were even more blue, peaking listlessly behind the low, thin mist. It seemed as if the whole of Krajina was in a majestic summer sleep or resting after a fierce fight and heroic deeds done… There is no rush during the build-up to the feast of Our Lady. During that time, houses in Sinj are full of visitors - friends and family. The week between the Alka and the Day of Assumption is a true holiday, as it should be. It is as if Sinj is sending a message to the world showing it how to take a break and do the things that matter the most. Sinj is nestled in the middle of the karsts of the Dalmatian Zagora, on the western brim of the vast Sinj field imbibed by the Cetina River, which makes it fertile and rich. People settled here already in the Neolithic Age, attracted to a favourable climate and its position on the crossroads between the Dalmatian hinterlands and Bosnia, only 30 kilometres from the sea. In ancient times, areas around Sinj were home to Roman settlements and villages of the native Delmati tribe, Illyrians of the Osinijata family, which is where the name of Sinj originated. During the 6th and 7th century, today’s Sinj was the location of a Byzantine fortress and there were a few early Christian churches underneath it. Croats arrived in the Cetina Krajina region in the 10th century, and in the late middle Ages, the rulers of Sinj were the Croatian noble families of NelipÊiÊ, Frankopan and Talovac. From the mid-15th century on, Sinj was under a constant threat from the Ottoman army, which finally managed to conquer it in 1516. Consequently, Sinj lost its strategic importance while the local population left the area fleeing from the harsh conditions of life and high Ottoman taxes. The Venetians, who liberated Sinj from Ottoman rule in 1686, tried to repopulate the region along the Cetina River by attracting people from western Bosnia and Herzegovina. In 1687, the biggest rise in population was recorded as people from Rama, Poljica, Livno and Duvno came to Sinj, led by the monks; they brought everything they owned with them including the miraculous painting of the Mother of Mercy, work by an unknown 16th century Venetian painter.

»udotvorna slika Gospe od Sinja The miraculous painting of the Lady of Sinj

Svake godine srce Sinjana tuËe jaËe na dan alke, kad nakon mnogo iπËekivanja s vrha ulice napokon na scenu stupi povorka alkara. Every year, the hearts of Sinj citizens beat faster on the day of the Alka knight procession to appear at the top of the street after a very emotional build-up. Nevertheless, the Ottoman threat continued. In 1715, Padishah Mehmed »eliÊ attacked Sinj with an army of 60,000 soldiers. Franciscan monks led the people to shelter inside the walls of the hilltop town and took the paint-

ing of the Mother of Mercy with them. There were merely 700 defenders of Sinj. They did not want to surrender the city, but decided to defend it to the very end instead. As the story goes, CROATIA AIRLINES

Ottoman soldiers besieged the city for a few days and the victory seemed to be a given, but during the night, between August 14th and 15th, Ottoman soldiers spotted a white lady ﬂoating above the city walls like a ghost, ﬁlling them with fear. That same night, the troops were hit with an unexplained outbreak of terror, along with dysentery, from which they immediately started dying. Survivors ran away in panic, leaving 10,000 dead soldiers behind, along with a huge booty from the war. The Osmanlis never attacked Sinj after that. The historical merit of this story has never been proven, but the fact remains that from then on, the locals have chosen Our Lady as their protector; they started praying to her and invoking her help. They immediately collected gold jewellery and took their painting of Our Lady to Venice where goldsmiths melted the gold and made a crown of it. The painting of Our lady was ceremonially crowned in 1716. It was that same year that the knights of Sinj revived the medieval tournament, the Alka, which had been nearly forgotten. They dedicated it to Our Lady and decided to stage it every year to commemorate the glorious battle. During the following centuries, Sinj was struck by numerous disasters: wars, earthquakes, the plague, cholera, famine…, but the cult of Our Lady continued, lynch pinned by numerous stories of the miracles she performed.

Crkvica na vrhu sinjskog staroga grada A small church at the top of the old town in Sinj

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The locals believed that all who had vowed themselves to the Lady were spared from the epidemics of the plague in the 18th century. They were also in awe of the fact that a major earthquake demolished the church, but the altar with the painting of Our Lady on it stood intact! The cult of Our Lady is very much alive to this very day. On the eve of the feast of Assumption, thousands of pilgrims walk the paths and roads leading to Sinj - some of them walking the

whole night from great distances. At dawn, they gather on the hilltop above Sinj, at the same place where, according to popular belief, Our Lady appeared before Ottoman soldiers, and where she wreaked havoc and made them flee to save Sinj and its citizens. The pilgrims then descend to the shrine of Our Lady, a church in the very centre of Sinj where they attend a holy mass. After the mass, priests approach the altar and take down the famous, miraculous picture of Our Lady adorned with votive gold; they place her on a pedestal and start a long procession. The bearers of the pedestal are Alka winners, with the ruling champion the first to assume the duty. They walk the streets of Sinj slowly and ceremoniously until another four pairs of shoulders take over the glorious duty. Little by little, all of the ones that have earned this privilege with their honourable life take turns carrying the Lady on their shoulders. Visibly touched, the people gathered there push their way toward the painting, trying to touch it for good luck. From windows and balconies overlooking the parade, people throw hundreds of rose petals towards the procession as it moves along. Many women’s eyes are filled with tears and every now and then, one can hear excited cries: Oh my Lady… A river of Sinj’s pious people walk proudly, paving a road from a distant past into an unknown future with a determined gait. The locals of Sinj say: During medieval times, Alka tournaments were staged everywhere ... in Makarska, Split, Zadar, Istria, beyond the borders of Croatia, all over the Mediterranean! But it has been kept alive nowhere else but here, because of Our Lady. Because of the unbreakable bond between the Alka and Our Lady!

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Nikada dosad nije bilo moguÊe sve o sinjskoj alki doæivjeti u jednome prostoru, a upravo je to ono πto Muzej Alke nudi. SveËano otvorenje muzeja bilo je 8. kolovoza u osvit 300. obljetnice te je od tada otvoren za sve posjetitelje od utorka do nedjelje od 9 do 19 sati. It has never before been possible to experience the Alka in one place, which is exactly what the Museum Alka of Sinj provides. The opening ceremony took place on August 8th to celebrate the 300th anniversary of the ﬁrst tournament, and it is open to the

Vizualni identitet/visual identity - Boris Ljubičić

public, Tuesday through Sunday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

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injska alka organizirana je po uzoru na srednjovjekovne viteπke turnire u spomen pobjede sinjskih vitezova nad mnogostruko brojnijom osmanlijskom vojskom, koja je opsjedala Sinj 1715. godine, u slavu Gospi koja je, prema legendi, tada spasila grad. Alkari, oka sokolova i Ëvrste desnice, jaπuÊi na konju, u punom galopu, oko 3 metra dugaËkim kopljem gaaju æeljeznu alku objeπenu na konopu preko trkaliπta. Koliko i alkarsko nadmetanje, toliko je dojmljiva i sveËana povorka u kojoj su alkarski vojvoda s poboËnicima, arambaπa i Ëeta alkarskih momaka, buzdovandæija, vodiËi edeka, barjaktar s poboËnicima, Ëeta alkara i na kraju alajËauπ - svi u autentiËnim raskoπnim viteπkim odorama. Alka se odræava samo u Sinju i samo na stazi zvanoj Alkarsko trkaliπte, gdje se prireuje od svog osnutka i kontinuirano traje do danas. Alkarski dvori s Muzejom Sinjske alke smjeπteni su u jednome od rijetko Ëuvanih mletaËkih kvartira (vojarna za smjeπtaj konjice) saËuvanih u Dalmaciji. Oblikovanjem Alkarskih dvora u starom baroknom Kvartiru napokon su se stekli uvjeti da viteπka igra sinjska alka dobije svoj reprezentativni muzejski okvir. Dvori Êe svaki dan osim ponedjeljka u godini biti potpuno otvoreni javnosti, namjernicima, ekskurzijama i prije svega samim Sinjanima. Tako su u 88

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ozraËju tri stoljeÊa slavlja postojanja Viteπko alkarsko druπtvo i Muzejski fundus starih alkarskih odora i opreme naπli mjesto pod primjerenim krovom i u sugestivno ureenom ambijentu. Muzej Sinjske alke svojim stalnim postavom doseæe najviπe muzejske standarde, prezentacijske i tehnoloπke, te tako staje uz bok ostalih vrhunskih muzeja u Republici Hrvatskoj. Muzejski postav ukljuËuje mnoπtvo odora,

opremu i oruæje sinjskih alkara te alkarske statute i pravilnike koje donosi u suvremenoj digitalnoj formi. PriËa koju Êe vam ispriËati svojom arhivskom graom nezamjenjiv je dio povijesti i grada Sinja i Cetinske krajine i Republike Hrvatske, a osnovna misao vodilja jest da se svakom posjetitelju pribliæi ta nezamjenjiva kulturna baπtina, koju je prepoznao i Unesco. Nikad dosad nije bilo moguÊe sve o sinjskoj

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Hidden oasis of beauty in the heartland of Croatia... High-end quality accommodation and culinary experience: boutique hotel concept (luxury rooms, wellness & spa, conference facilities...) Gourmet (wine cellar, organic food grown in the hotel’s garden) shortlisted for the Luxury Travel Guide Global Awards 2016 Marija Bistrica - famous pilgrimage site dedicated to Virgin Mary Croatian Chateau Experience: Ethno Homesteads & Old Craft Workshops Attractions (historic castles from the Habsburg era, Neanderthal museum and excavation site, wine roads, meadow biking)

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alki doæivjeti u jednome prostoru, a upravo je to ono πto Muzej alke nudi. Posebnu atrakciju postava predstavlja prikaz alkarske povorke naËinjen u prirodnoj veliËini, a prikazana je i rekonstrukcija bitke pod Sinjem iz 1715. godine, gdje Êe posjetitelji u multimedijalnom okruæju moÊi doæivjeti tu slavnu bitku. Osim toga, u projekcijskoj dvorani muzeja posjetiteljima se prikazuje 15-minutni ﬁlm o povijesti alke, nastao na temelju HRT-ova igrano-dokumentarnoga ﬁlma Alka. Svojom povijesnom utemeljenoπÊu i vizualnom atraktivnoπÊu sinjska alka predstavlja manifestaciju znaËajnoga turistiËkog potencijala. Realizacijom Muzeja Sinjske alke Republika Hrvatska dobila je suvremenu muzejsku ustanovu koja javnom prezentacijom vodi raËuna o strukturi svojih posjetitelja i Ëuva, πtiti i restaurira naslijeenu grau u skladu s danaπnjim vremenom i suvremenim promiπljanjima o muzejima u prvom redu kao o kulturnim, a onda i znanstvenim i pedagoπko-edukativnim institucijama.

he Alka of Sinj is a competition modelled after medieval equestrian tournaments. It was ﬁrst organized to pay homage to the victory of the knights of Sinj over the much larger Ottoman army, which besieged Sinj in 1715, and to celebrate Our Lady, who, according to legend, saved the city. Alka horseback riders with an eagle eye and a ﬁrm hand ride horses at full gallop along the main street, aiming 3-metre-long lances at an iron ring (an alka), which hangs on a rope above the racing lane. Equally attractive as the

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competition itself is the procession headed by the duke and his adjutants, followed by the Arambasha (Turkish: harami bas¸ ı = commander of the haramis, a special military group), and a troupe of Alka squires, mace bearers, horse handlers, a flag bearer and his adjutants, the squad of Alkari spearmen and their commander - AlajËauπ (Turkish alay: regiment + çavus¸: sargeant) at the end - all of them clad in their authentic uniforms. The Alka has been taking place nowhere else but on the Alka Lane in Sinj continually since it was first established. The Alka Court and the Alka Museum in Sinj are housed in the Venetian quarters of the city (mletaËki kvartir), one of the rare and most well-preserved military barracks for housing cavalry in Dalmatia. As the Alka Court took shape in the old Baroque quarters, conditions were finally put in place for the establishment of the Alka Museum in Sinj, which will be open to the public, passers-by, excursionists and primarily to the citizens of Sinj, every day except Monday. Thus, after 3 centuries of existence, both the

Alka Knights Society and its collection of old uniforms and equipment finally have a permanent home in an adequate space. The permanent exhibit at the Alka Museum in Sinj lives up to the highest standards in terms of presentation and technology and stands on par with other exquisite museums around Croatia. The exhibits include numerous uniforms, equipment and armaments of the Alkari of Sinj, as well as the statutes and rules of the Alka in a contemporary, digital format. The story told by its archive holdings is an invaluable part of the history of the city and the entire Cetina region, as well as the Republic of Croatia, while the main idea behind its foundation was to familiarize visitors with this unique cultural heritage recognized by UNESCO. Previously, it was impossible to find out everything there was to know about the Alka in one place, but that is precisely what is now being offered by the Alka Museum in Sinj. Special attractions are the real scale model of the Alka procession and a reconstruction of the 1715 battle of Sinj, providing visitors with the opportunity to experience the famous battle through a multi-media presentation. Apart from that, the museum’s screening hall features a 15-minute film about the history of the Alka, based on a film of the same name broadcasted by Croatian Radiotelevision (HRT). With its history and visual appeal, the Alka of Sinj is an event which has significant earning potential. The Alka Museum in Sinj is yet another modern museum in Croatia, whose presentations are geared towards the public, and which safeguards, protects and restores inherited materials in compliance with the times and contemporary ideas of museums as cultural, scientific and educational instituti ons.

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PODMORJE UNDERWATER WORLD

Piπe/By Dubravka Belas

Ne znam, premda su mi usta otvorena, kazati ni rijeËi pred veliËanstvom mora, pred modrim πumorom vjeËnosti (Dragutin TadijanoviÊ)

amiπljam Ëesto da je ta silna voda mora i oceana neizmjerne snage, æivo, golemo, tajanstveno tijelo; Ëudesan organizam koji poprima oblik svih zemljinih posuda u kojima se nalazi, koji pulsira, pamti, diπe, kreÊe se; promatra nas netremice odatle ispod povrπine, ovakve nesavrπene, izgubljene i rasprπene svojim malim ratovima na njihovim obalama. »ovjek je obiljeæio zemlju ruπevinama, ali njegova kontrola prestaje na obali, pjevao je Lord Byron. Istina, ondje gdje su se zaustavljali i najmoÊniji osvajaËi, na rubovima voda, jer dalje se viπe nije moglo, ni konjima, niti tenkovima, guævamo se i sudaramo takvi kakvi smo, umiπljeni i kopnocentriËni, iako je ovome planetu, sudeÊi po omjerima, ime trebalo biti More, a ne Zemlja. PrapoËetak æivota, element u kojemu Ëovjek ne moæe opstati, u kojemu je nemoÊan poput djeteta makar ga voda okruæuje i ljulja poput plodne vode, more koje je slano poput naπe krvi, oduvijek izaziva strahopoπtovanje. U stalnoj smjeni erosa i thanatosa, ljubavi i

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Fotograﬁje/Photos Alexander Dorn

Podvodni biljni i æivotinjski svijet lebdi u vodi, struæe po dnu, ondje diπe, pulsira, skriva se u πpiljama i lovi jedan drugoga u vjeËitoj, okrutnoj vrtnji hranidbenog lanca. »ovjek uvijek moæe birati − ostati u nekoj pliËini ili se odvaæiti prema puËini. Osobito, odvaæiti se zaroniti, duboko ispod povrπine vode, u njezine hladne i tamne, joπ neupoznate predjele. Toliko je netaknutog æivota ondje dolje, tko æeli stiÊi do bisera, morat Êe duboko zaroniti. In an underwater world, plants and animals ﬂoat in water, crawl along the sea’s bottom, pulsate there and hide in caves or hunt each other as they will as part of an eternal, cruel rotation of the food chain. A man always has a choice - to stay in shallow water or venture into open seas; he can choose to dive deep under the water’s surface, into the cold and dark, still unknown nooks and crannies. There is so much unexplored life down there. If you want to get to a pearl, you have to dive deep.

mrænje, od njeænog cjelivanja æala do ruπilaËkog bijesa kojim, nagovoren olujom, lomi i guta puste stijene, potapa drevne gradove, proædire brodove i mornare. »etiri milijarde godina − koliko je samo to beskrajnih slojeva leda i sunca, koliko moÊi, koliko prilike da se oblikuje sve oko sebe, æivot, kopno, klimu, energiju. Alexander Dorn, pilot je, fotograf i veliki zaljubljenik u more i ronjenje. Ali ne u bilo koje more − od svih ga je njegovih svjetskih, razvikanih ronilaËkih odrediπta opËinila tek hrvatska strana Jadrana − ona koja izgleda poput rastaljenoga, Ëistog tirkiza, posutoga tisuÊama pjega hrvatskih otoka − velikih i malih, tamnih i mirisnih od Ëempresa i smola ili posve ogoljenih i svijetlih od suncem izbijeljenog kamena, πto miriπu tek na jod i sol. Hrvatsko je more oteæalo od uspomena, nateËeno od potopljenih nada, zalud izbrazdano milijunima plovidba − ma kako πirok zapjenjeni rez bio, on se uËas zatvori, spoji, a brazgotina na njegovoj povrπini zaraste kao da se nikad nije ni zbila. »uva to more, koje nisu uspjeli zarobiti ni u dokovima tisuÊu luka i pristana, potopljena blaga brodova natovarenih starim teretima, prekriva, izravnava poput koprene davno uruπene, ljudskom rukom oblikovane obale, Ëuva ostatke piratskih brodova, slavnih bitaka, tisuÊe razbijenih amfora i poneki antiËki kip koji, s vremena na vrijeme, u mekim nanosima pijeska i obraslog algama, prepozna neki podvodni lutalica. Ali ta podmorska arheologija, ta mrtva priroda, ma kako bila vrijedna ili fascinantna, nekako ne zanima previπe naπeg pilota Dorna. Njega zanima samo æivot, podvodni biljni i æivotinjski svijet koji lebdi u vodi, struæe po dnu, ondje diπe, pulsira, skriva se u πpiljama i lovi jedan drugoga u vjeËitoj, okrutnoj vrtnji hranidbenog lanca. »ovjek uvijek moæe birati − ostati u nekoj pliËini ili se odvaæiti prema puËini. Osobito, odvaæiti se zaroniti, duboko ispod povrπine vode, u njezine hladne i tamne, joπ neupoznate predjele. Dorn se strastveno Ëudi kako je moguÊe da to podmorsko blago, ta skrivena ljepota Jadrana, ostane skrivena veÊini onih koji posjeÊuju hrvatsku obalu. I dok ih gleda kako plove ili plutaju povrπinom, sunËaju se ispruæeni na æalu, πeÊu lungo mare ili Ëine sve ono πto se veÊ Ëini na kopnu, na obali, na palubama barki, jedrilica, jahti, æali πto im sav taj Ëarobni svijet vilinskih prizora podmorja ostaje nepoznat. Toliko je netaknutog æivota ondje dolje, gdje se tamno i duboko more pretvara u morskim zelenilom obrasle hramove, dvorove, vrtove morskih boæanstava, a tek se malo dalje ruši u kanjone joπ dubljih, joπ mistiËnijih, joπ neistraæenijih bezdana. Nakon razgovora s Dornom bit Êe vam jasna

Cotylorhiza tuberculata

ona stara poslovica − tko æeli stiÊi do bisera, morat Êe duboko zaroniti. Dubine su te koje Dornu odiπu obiljem i ozbiljnoπÊu, Ëak viπe od neba ili oblaka koje jednako dobro poznaje, zacijelo voli, ali siromaπniji su æivotom i ljepotom joπ nestalniji. Dorn, kao i svi koji su osobno svjedoËili krhkoj Ëaroliji toga podvodnog svijeta, osobito se brine o njegovoj zaπtiti, o tome da se sprijeËi ili zaustavi njegovo propadanje, da se ne izgubi ni jedna vrsta rasipniËkim, industrijskim izlovljavanjem, osobito u malome, poluzatvorenom svijetu Jadrana. On je sam u dugim godinama

ronjenja veÊ zapazio promjene u biljnom i æivotinjskome svijetu duboko ispod povrπine, vidio je tropske ribe koje se sad nalaze i u Jadranskome moru, vidio πtetu koju ljudi neznanjem, nepaænjom ili namjerom, nanose æivotu pod morem. Æivotu koji ne prestaje fascinirati svojom ljepotom. Kad jednom, uz pomoÊ ronilaËke opreme, nauËite disati pod vodom i otkrijete sva ta podvodna blaga, zacijelo se viπe nikad neÊete brËkati u pliÊaku. ©to dublje zaronite, hladnije je i tamnije; svjetlo se drugaËije lomi kroz vodenu masu, a plavi spektar ujednaËava i usivljuje podvodni krajolik

Flabellina babai

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Galathea strigosa

Parazoanthus axinellae

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Scorpaena scrofa

Anthias anthias CROATIA AIRLINES

Hippocampus

Anemonia viridis

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Sabella spallanzanii

Gobius cruentatus CROATIA AIRLINES

Scorpaena scrofa

pod prirodnim svjetlom. Ali pod mlazom svjetla bljeskalice, oæivjet Êe u svim duginim bojama − sve do toplih, æarkocrvenih i æutih tonova. DobroÊudna, njeænoæuta mediteranska meduza lebdjet Êe tako pred vama ritmiËno πireÊi svoj klobuk, tijela ukraπena morskom Ëipkom, laænim biserjem i ametistima, najËeπÊe u pratnji mladih srebrnastih πaruna kojima pruæa zaπtitu. Nisu to jedini morski stvorovi koji πtite drugu vrstu − tako i plahoviti fratri uredno odjeveni u svijetle smokinge s crnim ovratnicima, daju sigurnost trljama mudro ih puπtajuÊi da i za njih kopaju po mulju i pijesku traæeÊi crviÊe, raËiÊe i manje ribe. I delikatne, gotovo prozirne vlasulje, preruπene u njeæan morski cvijet (Anemonia viridis) sa svojih dvjestotinjak neugodnih æareÊih lovki, Ëesto su skloniπte manjim ribama, raËiÊima i kozicama. Istodobno, ima onih koje su pravi proædrljivi predatori, poput gurmanskih kirnji koje nesmiljeno love hobotnice i jastoge. Ipak, sve te veÊe ribe koje jedu manje, nisu niπta prema najveÊem predatoru − Ëovjeku, istinskoj opasnosti za morski svijet. Dornova kamera zato nerijetko uhvati prizor ribe zapletene i zarobljene u okama poderane ribarske mreæe, ali lelujave morske trave na pjeπËanim dnima naziva djeËjim vrtiÊem, jer ondje, izmeu zelenih vlati, zaπtiÊene od pogleda, nesmetano rastu mlade morske æivotinje. Osobit dezen vrhunske mimikrije pokazat Êe list, kojega, ukopanog u dno, ni po Ëemu neÊete razlikovati od okolnoga pijeska. Ili hobotnica, poslije Houdinija, najspretniji eskapist, koji Êe po potrebi mijenjati boju, prilagoavajuÊi se pozadini, gradeÊi svoje male utvrde od kamenja. Po potrebi zbunit Êe prosutim crnilom da bi se, mlaznim pogonom, πto neopaæenije i bræe udaljila od opasnosti koje je uvijek vrebaju. Boje Êe, sve do kanarinsko æute, za vrijeme parenja Ëesto mijenjati i morski konjic Ëija je æenka jedina koja odlaæe jajaπca u muπku trbuπnu vreÊicu. Ondje, u svojevrsnoj plodnoj vodi, mladunci sazrijevaju sve dok ne narastu 98

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dovoljno da ih tata porodi i ispusti u more. I pigment πkarpine, ribe koja svoju nelijepu vanjπtinu maskira prelijepim nijansama, od blijedoruæiËaste do æivocrvene, ima sposobnost mijenjati se u skladu s okolinom. Uz vlasulju, i mnoge Êe vas druge morske æivotinje podsjetiti na cvjetove − tako polipi dolaze u svim bojama i oblicima, oponaπajuÊi raskoπne cvjetne livade na obroncima podvodnih litica. Ili spuæve, tamne i oble poput divovskih tartufa, ili dugonogih crvenih ljepotica, morskih zvijezda, dok se preko algama obraslih hridi, prostiru poput velikocvjetnih paviti. Podzemne zidove krase πume naranËastih i crvenih koralja i gorgonija, Ëije latinsko ime anthozoa doslovno i znaËi cvjetajuÊa æivotinja, a prema staroj hrvatskog legendi tek su njeæni cvjetovi πto se okamene kad ih se izvadi iz mora. Posluπajmo pouku ovih fotograﬁja i zaronimo u jedinstveno Jadransko more, ogrnimo taj plavi omotaË, vlaæni kaput Zemlje, prepustimo se novoj pustolovini i otkrijmo svijet ispod povrπine, tako razliËit, tako mek, gdje je æivot tiπi, smireniji, priguπeniji. Svijet koji neÊemo moÊi pripitomiti, ali morat Êemo mu se diviti. I poπtovati ga, beskrajnoga, bezvremenoga, slobodnoga. Although my mouth is open, I cannot utter a single word before the magniﬁcence of the sea, before the blue murmur of eternity. (Dragutin TadijanoviÊ)

often imagine the huge bulk of sea and ocean water as having immeasurable power; as a huge, mysterious living body; an astonishing organism which assumes the shape of all the earth’s vessels where it resides; a body which pulsates, remembers, breathes, moves and keeps on looking at us from below, from beneath the surface; at us, who are so imperfect, displaced and

scattered around by our small wars on these water’s shores. Lord Byron wrote: Man marks the earth with ruins, but his control stops with the shore. Indeed, shorelines have stopped even the mightiest of conquerors who could not advance any further from there, either on horses or tanks. We flock to them and bump into each other, the way we are, conceited and land-centric although the name of this planet should have been the Sea and not the Earth if one is to go by surface ratio alone. It’s the origin of life, an element in which human beings cannot survive, in which they are helpless like newborns, although water surrounds and rocks them like an amniotic fluid of sorts; the sea salty like our blood has always inspired awe in people. In a constant alteration between Eros and Thanatos, or love and hate, offering anything from tender kisses to bouts of destructive rage, cajoled by a storm, the sea breaks and gulps down huge rocks, floods ancient cities, devours ships and sailors. Four billion years - how many endless layers of ice and sun is that? How much power? How many opportunities to shape the whole environment, life, land, climate, energy? Alexander Dorn is a pilot a, photographer and a great aficionado of the sea and diving. But not just any sea - of all his globally famous diving destinations, only the Croatian Adriatic littoral truly enchants him - a littoral resembling pure melted turquoise sprinkled with thousands of freckles: Croatian islands, big and small, dark and scented with cypress trees and resins, or completely bare, reflecting the whiteness of the sun-weathered stone, smelling of nothing but iodine and salt. The Croatian sea is pregnant with memories, swelling with sunken hopes, swirled by millions of sails; however wide a foaming furrow may be, its seams close very quickly, and the scar on its surface heals as if it had never been there at all. Even the docks of a thousand harbours and jetties cannot enslave the sea, a guardian of the treasures from ships which sunk together with their ancient cargo. The sea covers and flattens shores, long ago destroyed, shaped by human hands; it protects the remains of pirate ships, reminders of glorious battles, thousands of shattered amphorae and occasional ancient sculptures, covered in algae amidst the soft layers of sand, which are every now and then revealed by underwater roamers. However valuable or fascinating underwater archaeology and nature may be, they are not much of an interest to our pilot Dorn. All he cares about is life, plants and animals that float in water, crawl along the sea bottom, pulsate there and hide in caves

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or hunt each other as they will as parts of an eternal, cruel rotation of the food chain. A man always has a choice - to stay in shallow water or venture into open seas; he can choose to dive deep under the water’s surface, into the cold and dark, into unknown nooks and crannies. Dorn passionately wonders how it is possible that this underwater treasure, this hidden beauty of the Adriatic, remains hidden from a majority of those who visit the Adriatic coast. And while looking at these people sailing or floating, sunbathing on the shore, strolling along a beach or doing whatever people do by the sea, either on the shore, on the decks of dinghies, or on sailing boats and yachts, he feels sad that this fascinating world of fairytale scenes remains forever unknown to them. There is so much unexplored life down there, where the dark and deep sea transforms itself into temples covered with seaweed, castles, gardens of sea gods and goddesses, and then, rushes into canyons of even deeper, even more mystical and scarcely explored abysses only a bit further away. After a conversation with Dorn, you will understand the old saying - if you want to get a pearl, you have to dive deep. For Dorn, depths exude plenitude and seriousness, even more so than the sky and clouds, which he knows equally well and certainly loves, but their beauty is even more unstable and they do not offer so much life. Like anybody else who has had a personal encounter with the fragile magic of an underwater world, Dorn is particularly concerned about its protection. He wants to protect it, to stop its decline, to prevent the loss of a single species through wanton, industrial fishing, especially in the small, semi-enclosed world of the Adriatic. He, himself, has observed changes in the plant and animal world deep under the surface in the course of many years of his diving experience; he has seen tropical fish now residing in the Adriatic; he has witnessed the damage inflicted on sea life by people who just do not know or do not care, or worse still, do it deliberately. And this life under water does not stop fascinating us with its beauty. Once you learn how to breathe underwater with the help of diving gear, and when you discover underwater treasures, you will never again choose to wade in the shoals instead. The deeper you dive, the colder and darker it gets; light refracts differently through water while the blue spectrum equalizes the tints of an underwater landscape and renders it gray under natural light. Under a reflector beam, however, water comes alive in all the colours 100

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of the rainbow - including warm crimson and yellow hues. The benevolent, mellow yellow Mediterranean jellyfish floats in front of you while rhythmically spreading its smooth dome; its body is decorated with sea lace, fake pearls and amethyst. Its faithful companions are young silver Atlantic horse mackerels who protect it. These are not the only sea creatures that protect other species. The timid common two-banded sea bream, nicely clad in a light tuxedo and black collar, provide security to mullets, wisely letting them dig in mud and sand looking for worms, shrimps and smaller fish. Delicate and nearly transparent sea anemone, disguised as gentle sea flowers (Anemonia viridis) with two hundred or so unpleasant tentacles protruding from their bodies, often provide shelter to smaller fish and shrimp. They are also voracious predators, like gourmet stone bass with a merciless appetite for squid and lobster. But all the big fish which eat smaller ones is nothing compared to the biggest predators of them all - human beings, a true threat to the world of the sea. Dorn’s camera has often caught a scene depicting fish entangled and imprisoned in torn fishing nets. He calls the waggling sea weed on the sandy bottom kindergardens because this is where young sea animals grow undisturbed and protected from view by green stalks. The common sole is an example of supreme mimicry. Wedged into the seabed, it is hardly discernable from the surrounding sand. Or the octopus, after Houdini, it is the most resourceful escape artist, changing colours to blend with the background as it builds small stone fortresses. When necessary, it creates a diversion by spurting ink, and propelling itself as fast as it can from the perils which are never far away.

Hypselodoris valenciennesi

The sea horse also changes colours during the mating season. The female embeds eggs into the male’s belly pouch. There, in an amniotic fluid of sorts, youngsters develop until they are big enough to be delivered into the sea by their daddy. The pigment of the red scorpion fish, which disguises its unattractive body with colourful make-up ranging from pale pink to vivid red, can also change to blend in with the environment. Anemone is not the only sea animal which can remind you of flowers - cnidaria come in all shapes and colours, mimicking lush floral meadows on the slopes of underwater rocks. Or sponges, dark and round like gigantic truffles, or the starfish, long-legged red beauties which stretch like big clematis flowers along rocks overgrown with algae. Underwater walls are adorned with forests of orange and red corals and with anthozoa, Pagurus anachoretus

Seriola dumerili

whose Latin name translates literally into an animal in bloom. According to Croatian legend, they are indeed delicate ﬂowers which turn into stone as soon as they are taken out of the sea. Let us listen to the message of these photos and take a plunge into the unique Adriatic Sea; let us wrap ourselves in this blue cloak, a humid coat of the Earth; let us abandon ourselves to a new adventure and discover the world under the surface, so different, so soft, a world where life is quieter, calmer and more subdued. A world we will never be able to tame, but which we must admire and respect; it is fathomless, timeless, and free.

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MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

Grad Pushkar na istoimenom jezeru, svetom mjestu hinduističkog bogoštovlja The city of Pushkar at the namesake lake, a holy place of Hinduism

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Tekst i fotograﬁje/Text and photos Saša Pjanić

Zbog obilja sunca i spektakularnih povijesnih kulisa, Rajasthan je nezaobilazno odredište svakoga tko putuje indijskim sjeverom. Plentiful sunshine and a spectacular historic backdrop make Rajasthan a must-visit place for anybody travelling to the north of India.

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Hawa Mahal, Jaipur, PalaÄ?a vjetrova/ Palace of Winds

Pustinja Thar The Thar Desert

Gorje Aravalli The Aravalli Mountains

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Jaipur, trgovačke četvrti starog grada Jaipur, the commercial part of the old town

Jaswant Thada, mauzolej maharadže od Jodhpura The mausoleum of the maharaja of Jodhpur CROATIA AIRLINES

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Tvrđava Mehrangarh, Jodhpur Mehrangarh Fortress, Jodhpur

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Jodhpur, Blue City Jodhpur, the Blue City

Pogled na Patwon-Ki-Haveli, Jaisalmer View of Patwon-Ki-Haveli, Jaisalmer CROATIA AIRLINES

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Jaipur

emlja kraljeva, palaËa, utvrenih citadela, krotitelja zmija i putujuÊih pripovjedaËa. Srednji vijek na razglednici. Uz Taj Mahal, zacijelo je najpoznatije indijsko must see odrediπte. NajveÊa indijska savezna dræava, neπto veÊa od Poljske, nezaobilazno je mjesto svakoga tko putuje indijskim sjeverom. Jedna od onih koja je nacionalni slogan Incredible India tek neznatno preradila u vlastitu inaËicu Incredible State of India. Zbog obilja sunca i spektakularnih povijesnih kulisa, Rajasthan je i omiljeno mjesto indijske ﬁlmske industrije, uprizoreno u mnogim prizorima raskoπi, plesa i raspjevanih svadbenih povorki. Rajasthanom, kao i veÊim dijelom Indije, najbolje je putovati u suho doba godine, ali prije vruÊih mjeseci travnja, svibnja i lipnja. To je razdoblje koje je u indijskom kalenda108

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ru pribliæno izmeu dviju velikih svetkovina, Diwali i Holi, razdoblje od kasnog listopada do oæujka. Ili, kako u Rajasthanu joπ raËunaju protok vremena, od Kartik Purnima u Pushkaru do velikog festivala pustinje u Jaisalmeru. U Jaipuru, upravnom srediπtu dræave, postoji meunarodna zraËna luka, no posjetitelji i putnici najËeπÊe stiæu ovamo kopnenim putovima, iz New Delhija, Agre ili neπto udaljenijeg Mumbaija. Premda na suπnome, indijskom sjeverozapadu, Rajasthan je smjeπten u sjeciπtu mreæe putova Juæne Azije, poznate joπ iz davnine. Vlak je izvrsno mjesto gdje se Indija moæe upoznati iz prve ruke. Indijske æeljeznice meu najveÊim su poslodavcima na svijetu, kroz Ëije vagone godiπnje proe Ëitava populacija naπeg planeta. No unatoË mnogoljudnosti, putovanje Rajasthanom

vlakom moæe vas dovesti u najpustije krajeve potkontinenta. Pustolovina voænje æeljeznicom razumijeva upoznavanje mnogo sloæenijeg sustava nego πto je vjerojatno ijedan drugi, od vagonskih razreda, a ima ih 10, do naËina kupnje karata. Zaboravite dolazak na πalter pola sata prije polaska vlaka. Indijom svakodnevno æeljeznicom putuje oko dvadeset milijuna putnika. Do sada sam se veÊ dvaput vozio vlakom od New Delhija do Jaisalmera. Put je trajao dvadesetak sati. Za izbirljivije postoji i drugaËiji naËin putovanja traËnicama po Rajasthanu, luksuznim turistiËkim vlakovima koji prometuju prema posebnome voznom redu. NajznaËajnija je geografska razdjelnica zemlje gorje Aravalli. Te najstarije planine potkontinenta, vjetrovima πto s Arapskog mora nose padaline, prijeËe prolaz prema zapadu. Poput dugaËkog zida, dijele zemlju na obradivi istoËni dio i pustinju. Kako put od plodnog Hindustana odmiËe sve viπe na zapad, i vegetacija postaje oskudnija. Prva je postaja Jaipur, najveÊi i glavni grad Rajasthana, koji zbog boje kuÊa od crvenkasto ružiËastog pjeπËenjaka zovu joπ i Pink City. Utemeljio ga je 1727. godine Sawai Jai Singh, po kome grad i nosi ime. Izabravπi prostranu zaravan, maharadža je æelio premjestiti staru prijestolnicu dinastije iz obliænje utvrde Amer u novi, moderan grad. Gradska jezgra Jaipura s upravnim zgradama, palaËama i bazarima djelo je planskog urbanizma gotovo bez premca u Indiji. Tome u prilog najbolje ide geometrijski pravilan raster ulica, meu koje je uklopljeno devet gradskih Ëetvrti. Zbog takvog tlocrta, na koji se drugdje u Indiji ne nailazi baπ Ëesto, vrlo je lako kretati se njime. Zaπtitni znak Jaipura poznata je PalaËa vjetrova, Hawa Mahal. Dobila je ime po viπekatnim, uliËnim proËeljima s brojnim prozorima, iza Ëijih su se reπetkastih mreæa znatiæeljne dvorske dame skrivale od nepoæeljnih pogleda, a ﬁjuk vjetra kroz njihove odaje proizvodio zvukove poput uzdaha. Osim æena, maharadžina velika strast bila je znanost, posebice astronomija, pa je uz svoju palaËu podigao i poznati opservatorij s najveÊim sunËanim satom na svijetu. Jantar Mantar jedan je od dva spomenika svjetske baπtine, koji se nalaze u Rajasthanu. Drugi su brdske utvrde, πest primjera obrambene fortiﬁkacijske arhitekture razasute na kamenitim humcima svugdje po Rajasthanu. U blizini Jaipura, na litici iznad jezera Maota, nalazi se jedna od njih, monumentalna utvrda u Ameru. Pogled s bedema na brdovitu okolicu oËarava kao i lutanje zakuËastim labirintom odaja i hodnika, provedenim kroz glavnu palaËe kao zadnja crta obrane. Pozvavπi trgovce i obrtnike na ledinu gdje Êe ubrzo podiÊi grad, Sawai Jai Singh imao je nepogreπiv instinkt za buduÊnot; Jaipur je

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Jantar Mantar, opservatorij iz 18. stoljeća, Jaipur Jantar Mantar, the 18 th century observatory in Jaipur

postao i ostao raj za potroπaËko razmetanje. Ovdje se træi doslovno svime, i to u skladu s urbanom matricom, po planiranom redu. Staro gradsko obzie, povijesna shoping zona, iz balona podsjeÊa na πahovsku ploËu na kojoj se toËno zna gdje se πto kupuje. U kupnju vas mogu voditi i vezanih oËiju, no po vrsti robe u duÊanu toËno Êete odrediti gdje se sad nalazite. Nakit, odjeÊa, tkanine, koæna galanterija, drago kamenja, zlatnina, srebrnina, porculan, zaËini, slatkiπi, ayurvedski pripravci. Od igle do slona, a kad se veÊ spominje ovo zadnje, Jaipur je poznat upravo po velikom festivalu slonova, koji se svake godine odræava na svetkovinu Holi. Kachwaha, vladari Kneæevine Jaipura, uvijek su bili pokrovitelji umjetnosti. Taj se obiËaj, preko raznih zaklada, odræao i nakon stjecanja indijske neovisnosti, kada maharadže odlaze s povijesne scene. U ovom gradu ne nedostaje materijala za bilo koga s pripovjedaËkim talentom, pa tako ne Ëudi πto se najveÊi festival knjiæevnosti u Aziji odræava upravo tu. ©toviπe, dræe ga najveÊim neformalnim festivalom literature na svijetu, s obzirom na masovnost, besplatan pristup i sudjelovanje najraznovrsnijih proﬁla autora, od lokalnih pripovjedaËa do nobelovaca i barda svjetske knjiæevnosti poput Naipala, (Sir Vidiadhar Surajprasad Naipaul) Pamuka i Salman Rushdie. 110

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Krcat autobus cupka po grbavoj cesti dok zavijamo nizbrdicom prema Pushkaru. Ljupki i slikovit gradiÊ uz mirno jezero, jedno je od onih utoËiπta kakve s vremenom morate potraæiti ako dulje putujete Indijom. E sad, to u vezi s predahom vrijedi samo kada se u njemu ne odræavaju hodoËaπÊa i sajmovi ili kada nije sezona vjenËanja. Pushkar je grad boga-stvoritelja Brahme. Tu mu je posveÊen i njegov najpoznatiji hram. Zaπto su Brahmini hramovi u Indiji inaËe malobrojni, mitologija nudi zanimljivu priËu. Spazivπi demona koji je htio nauditi ËovjeËanstvu, Brahma ga ubija lotosom. Dok je cvijet pogaao Vajranabhu, latice su pale na zemlju i stvorile tri jezera. Onda je pobjedonosni Brahma na najveÊem jezeru odluËio izvesti obred vatrenog ærtvovanja. No da bi ga propisno okonËao, morala je uz njega biti i njegova boæanska pratilja. Kako Sarasvati u kljuËnom trenutku obreda nije joπ bila tu, Brahma se oæenio gudæarskom djevojkom Gayatri i ceremoniju okonËao. Kada se Sarasvati napokon pojavila na jezeru, imala je πto i vidjeti. Bijes je bio toliki da je sasula kletvu na cijeli vedski panteon, a svome nevjernome muæu zabranila da bude πtovan bilo gdje drugdje po Indiji. Pushkar na sanskritu znaËi plavi lotosov cvijet. Za razliku od Jaipura, Pushkar pripada meu najstarija naselja u Indiji. Smjeπten je stotinjak kilometara jugozapadno, u podnoæju

prijevoja koji ga dijeli od Ajmera. Oba grada velika su mjesta hodoËaπÊa, jedno za hinduse, drugo za muslimane. Dijeli ih samo brdsko bilo. U Ajmeru se nalazi znamenito muslimansko svetiπte Dargha Sharif, posveÊena grobnica suﬁjskog sveca Moinuddina Chishtija, koji je u 12. stoljeÊu u Indiji osnovao Ëiπtijski drviπki red. »etiri stoljeÊa poslije, mogulski vladar Akbar, veliki pokrovitelj i sljedbenik »ištija, svake je godine iz Agre pjeπaËio na hodoËaπÊe u Ajmer. Osim po osvajanjima, isticao se kao dobar upravitelj carstva, u kojemu je osobito promicao vjersku toleranciju, i to u vrijeme kada se Europa guπila u besmislu vjerske nesnošljivosti. Mudri car koji Êe poslije s razlogom dobiti nadimak Veliki, uvidio je sav potencijal religijskog pluralizma zemlje kojom je vladao. S hinduskim Rajputima Akbar je imao poseban odnos. Tvrde i nepopustljive u ratovima, mnoge je klanove privolio carskom tronu brakovima svojih prinËeva i rajputskih princeza. I careva prva od mnogih pratilja, Mariam-uz-Zamani Begum, bila je kÊi rajputskog kralja. Svadbene povorke Baraat Ëest su prizor na ulicama. To su gromoglasne i duge procesije mnoπtva, koje zajedno s trubaËima i udaraljkaπima mladoæenju na konju prate na pir. No to je samo djeliÊ obiËaja i rituala. VjenËanja u Indiji traju tjedan dana, a zavrπavaju velikim slavljem nakon glavnog obreda sklapanja

braka. U manjim mjestima kao πto je Pushkar gotovo je sigurno da Êete naiÊi na tu vrstu uliËnog veselja, koje Ëesto ponese, a nije ni rijetkost da skupa s povorkom zavrπite na slavlju u mladenkinom domu. VjenËanje je veoma vaæan dogaaj, za koji se Indijci pripremaju Ëitav æivot. I tu je zakon velikih brojeva opet uËinio svoje. Velik dio svadbenog budæeta troπi se zapravo na πtednju. Indijske obitelji, opsjednute kupnjom zlata u bilo kojem obliku i koliËini koju si mogu priuπtiti, svojim nasljednicima nastoje osigurati izvjesnu buduÊnost. Ali to što godiπnje oko deset milijuna parova u Indiji sklapa brak, od nacionalne potraænje za zlatom Ëini globalnu stvar. Slavni i imuÊni osobito su izbirljivi kada su vjenËanja posrijedi, zahtijevajuÊi kraljevski tretman. A gdje ga drugdje mogu imati bolji nego u Zemlji kraljeva, Rajasthanu. Mnoge stare palaËe, vile, fontane i paviljoni postali su mjesta elitnih indijskih vjenËanja. Tvrtke poput Historic Resort Hotels i Taj Hotels Resorts & Palaces, nude kompletene svadbene aranæmane, od lokacije do organizacije Ëitavih dogaanja. Pushkar je svjetski poznat po velikom sajmu deva, koji se, u sklopu hodoËaπÊa i svetkovanja Kartik Purnima, svake godine odræava u listopadu ili studenom. Na rubu grada, uz put koji vodi do hrama boæice Saraswati, prostire se golema ledina koja u vrijeme sajma oæivi. Rika deva, æamor, cika, pjesma i ples. Okolina bruji od ritma udaraljki dok se praπina nadvija nad sajmiπtem. Za stranca, ovo je Rajasthan on display, uz izbor najljepπe deve, najljepπih brkova, najljepπe nevjeste i nezaobilazno potezanje konopa svih protiv svih. NapuπtajuÊi Pushkar, ostavljam planine Aravalli iza sebe i ulazim u pustinju Thar. Stjenovita πikara posuta grmolikim trnjem postupno prelazi u pijesak. Stiæem u Jodhpur, srce Rajasthana. Na gordoj crvenoj stijeni iznad prostranoga grada uzdiæe se tvrava Mehrangarh. Ponosna, neosvojiva i nevjerojatna, jedna je od najveÊih fortiﬁkacija u Indiji. Gradnja utvrde, koju je 1460. poËeo maharadža Rao Jodha od Mandorea, protegla se na puna dva stoljeÊa. Unosna trgovina svilom, opijumom, sandalovinom i bakrom, koja je karavanskim putem od Gujarata do Delhija prolazila tuda, punila je gradsku riznicu. Do palaËe na vrhu, kroz sedam dveri, vodi zavojiti put. VeÊina je njezinih odaja dostupna posjetiteljima. U njima se nalazi jedna od najbogatijih muzejskih zbirki Rajasthana s kraljevskim palankinima, oruæjem i umjetninama. Tu su izloæene i razliËite inaËice turbana, uz demonstraciju kako se viπe metara tkanine mota oko glave. Pagari, kako se to pokrivalo za glavu u Rajasthanu joπ zove, osim πto je znak Ëasti i druπtvenog statusa, praktiËni je muπki asesoar za æivot u pokretu, koji moæe posluæiti kao jastuk, pokrivaË ili ruËnik. S visokih

balkona i zidina puca pogled na grad, okolicu i gotovo uvijek plavo nebo. Od znamenitosti treba joπ istaknuti najveÊu privatnu rezidenciju na svijetu, velebnu palaËu Umaid Bhawan, æivopisni Sadar Bazar sa sat-kulom, zaπtitnim znakom grada, i Jaswan Thada mauzolej. Potonja graevina nalazi se nedaleko od utvrde, na mjestu gdje su se nekada kremirali vladari Jodhpura. Podignuta je od bijelog mramora, po uzoru na mogulski Taj Mahal. Rajputi su se u mnogoËemu ugledali na mogulske suverene, s neskrivenom æeljom da ih nadmaπe. U arhitekturi i graditeljstvo to su nedvojbeno i uspjeli. Jodhpur joπ zovu i Sun City, a po omiljenoj, nesluæbenoj toponimiji prema boji proËelja, Plavi Grad. No on je ponajprije grad dobrog zalogaja i vrhunske lokalne kuhinje. Specijaliteti

egzotiËnih naziva, poput raznih Kachorija, Mirchi Bada, Dal Bati Churme te razne poslastice pripadaju u vrh indijske nacionalne gastronomije. Kuhinja Rajsthana vrlo je intenzivna i pikantna, a kao nadomjestak za vodu, zbog njezine nedostatnosti, obiËno se rabi mlijeko. Preteæno je vegetarijanska, no kako pustinja i krπ oskudijevaju vegetacijom, poznata je i po nekim vrlo ukusnim mesnim jelima, primjerice ljutom, ovËjem curryju Laal maans. Na kraju puta, pravo more dina i tek nekoliko desetaka kilometara do Pakistana. Thar je pustinja nad kojom zrak nikada ne miruje pa su valovi pijeska neprestano u pokretu. VruÊ vjetar Loo, koji najavljuje dolazak monsuna, dodatno grijuÊi potkontinent, raznosi ga posvuda. Na takvoj vjetrometini smjestio se Jaisalmer, po

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i draguljara, poznati haveli. Lijepo je usidriti se na nekome od balkona i s mekog divana, uz Ëaj, promatrati grad. Jaisalmer je mjesto trgovaca, dobrog raspoloæenja i obilja sunËanog vremena. Blagostanje i dobrobit, kažu, potjeËu od njegovoga zaπtitnika Ganeshe, Ëovjekolikog boæanstva s glavom slona. Slika surlatog sreÊonoπe krasi pragove mnogih gradskih kuÊa. Uz hinduistiËke, u gradu ima i nekoliko dæainskih hramova. IsposniËki i mirotvoran, dæainizam je svoju sljedbu pronaπao u dobrostojeÊem sloju trgovaca pa je Rajasthan, uz Gujarat, zemlja s najveÊim brojem dæaina u Indiji. Na bazaru, podno zidina, nalazi se pravi indijski kuriozitet, Bang Lassi Shop. Mala πpelunka koja je svjetsku slavu stekla po tome što je jedino mjesto u Indiji gdje je sluæbeno dopuštena konzumacija osuπenog lista marihuane, zdrobljenoga u voÊni shake. Na cjeniku piše da je dostupan u tri veliËine: light, strong i supper dupper sexy extra strong. Na kraju, svakako treba otiÊi u pustinju. Ili kao turistiËki safari koji ovdje svi nude ili u vlastitoj reæiji, na iznajmljenome motociklu. ProÊi zabaËenim, pastirskim selima, doæivjeti dine, sluπati neobiËne priËe i vidjeti zanosnu koreograﬁju plesaËica Kalbelia. Teπko da se na nekoliko kartica teksta o nekoj zemlji moæe ispriËati sve. A moæda to nije ni potrebno. Uvijek na kraju neπto ostane izvan dosega puta, Bikaner na sjeveru ili Udaipur i Bundi na jugu. Vjetrovit i napola pust, Rajasthan je oduvijek bio povijesna autocesta od Himalaje do Oceana, od plodnih rijeËnih ravnica Gange i Inda do pomorskih luka Gujarata. Njime su prolazile karavane, hodoËasnici, za njega se otimale vojske i plaÊali bogati mirazi. Plemenit, gostoljubiv i leæeran, danas je otvoren svima. Teπko puπta iz zagrljaja i uvijek doziva natrag.

mnogima najspektakularniji grad Rajasthana do kojega zaista vrijedi potegnuti. U daljini goleme vjetroturbine, a onda kao iz bajke, zlatastoæute kule na stjenovitom humku uzdiæu se naspram plavog neba. Gradina Jaisal Singa, za razliku od drugih povijesnih utvrda, potpuno je nastanjena. ©toviπe, unutar bedema æivi oko Ëetvrtine gradskog stanovniπtva. Velik dio njih zarauje iznajmljujuÊi smjeπtaj, pa je za veÊinu posjetitelja citadela ultimativni A must place to stay. Ipak, prognoze za oËuvanje toga Unescova dragulja i nisu baπ najblistavije. Sagraen na prhkom, taloænom podnoæju, kaπtel pomalo klizi pa se zato apelira na posjetitelje da smjeπtaj potraæe izvan gradskih zidina. A njega ima napretek, od luksuznih hotela i pustinjskih resorta 112

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do jeftinih i sasvim ugodnih gostinjskih kuÊa. Utemeljen u 12. stoljeÊu, pod svojim je zidinama grad vidio mnogo bitki i gotovo isto toliko ﬁlmskih i televizijskih produkcija, od bollywoodskih hitova do reality showova. Uzdigao se nadziruÊi karavanske putove koji su iz Perzije, pustinjom, prolazili na istok. U 17. i 18. stoljeÊu u gradu je stasala bogata trgovaËka aristokracija, a procvatom luËkoga grada Bombaya, Jaisalmer je na kraju izgubio znaËenje. Glavna gospodarska djelatnost danas je turizam te usluæni sektor koji se na nj nadovezuje. Boravak u gradu sliËan je vremeplovu, gdje svaki kvrcaj dlijeta o kamen odzvanja nekom drugom proπloπÊu. Rajina palaËa i dveri na utvrdi ili raskoπne gradske vile bogatih trgovaca

land of kings, palaces, fortiﬁed citadels, snake-charmers and travelling storytellers… The Middle Ages on a postcard. Along with the Taj Mahal, it is, undoubtedly, the most well-known, must-see destination in India. The largest Indian state, slightly larger than Poland, is a must-visit for anybody travelling to the north of the country. The national slogan, Incredible India, is locally known as the Incredible State of India. Plentiful sunshine and a spectacular historic backdrop make Rajasthan the perfect location for the Indian ﬁlm industry, where numerous, luxurious dance and wedding scenes have been shot. The best time to travel within Rajasthan, as well as throughout most of India, is during the dry season, but before the hottest months of the year: April, May and June. This is the period between the two large Hindu festivals of Diwali and Holi, from late October until

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March. In Rajasthan, the passing of this time is referred to as the period between the Kartik Poornima in Pushkar and the large desert festival in Jailsalmer. Even though there is an international airport in Jaipur, the administrative centre of the state, most tourists and other travellers usually arrive by land, from New Delhi, Agra or the somewhat more distant Mumbai. Although it is located in the dry Indian northwest, Rajasthan is at the intersection of South Asian merchant routes that have been known and used since ancient history. Travelling by train is an excellent way to get to know India ﬁrst hand. The Indian Railways

Jaisalmer twice already. The journey lasted twenty hours. For the pickier travellers, there is a different way to travel by rail in Rajasthan - by a luxurious train that operates according to a special timetable. The country’s most signiﬁcant geographic watershed is the Aravalli Mountain range. The oldest mountains on the sub-continent prevent the winds that bring precipitation from the Arabian Sea from blowing further towards the west. Like a long wall, the range divides the country in two - the fertile eastern part, and the desert. Further west from fertile Hindustan, the vegetation becomes

are among the biggest employers in the world, and they transport as many passengers every year as the entire population of the planet. The huge population notwithstanding, travelling by train in Rajasthan will take you to the most sparsely inhabited areas of the sub-continent. The adventure of travelling by train involves a lot of things: from ﬁguring out a system that is much more complicated than anywhere else in the world, to distinguishing between 10 different classes, to the activity of ticket buying. Forget about coming to the ticket booth half an hour before departure. Every day, twenty million people travel across India by train. I have taken the train between New Delhi and

increasingly scarce. The ﬁrst stop is Jaipur, the capital and largest city of Rajasthan, also known as Pink City due to the fact that its houses are built from red-pink sandstone. It was founded in 1727, by Sawai Jai Singh, and the city bears his name. Having chosen a spacious plateau, the maharaja wanted to relocate the old dynasty capital from the nearby Amer Fort to the new, modern city. The Jaipur city centre, with its administration buildings, palaces and bazaars is a work of planned urbanism almost second to none in India. It features a geometrically perfect street plan with a total of nine city neighbourhoods. Thanks to such a plan, uncommon elsewhere

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in India, it is very easy to find your way around. One of the main landmarks of Jaipur is the famous Palace of Winds, Hawa Mahal. It got its name after its multi-storey façade with numerous windows featuring mesh-grilles, behind which, the curious ladies of the court hid in order to avoid unwanted glances, while the wind blowing through their chambers sounded like a myriad of sighs. Apart from women, the maharaja’s great passion was science, especially astronomy, so he also built a famous observatory, with the largest sun-clock in the world, next to his palace. Jantar Mantar is one of two monuments of World Heritage that are located in Rajasthan. The others are hillside forts - six examples of the defensive fortification architecture scattered across the rocky knolls all over Rajasthan. One of them is the monumental fort in Amer near Jaipur, on a cliff above Lake Maota. The view of the hilly surroundings from the fort wall is equally as captivating as meandering through the labyrinth of hallways and rooms, stretching through the main palace as the last line of defence. Having invited merchants and craftsmen to the land where he was to build a city, Sawai Jai Singh had an unmistakeable instinct for the future; Jaipur became, and remains, a paradise for shameless spending. Literally everything is sold here, according to the urban matrix and planned order. The historic, walled part of town is a shopping area that looks like a chessboard if viewed from a hot air-balloon. You can be taken shopping with eyes closed, but you will still know your exact position according to the kind of merchandise found at a particular store: jewellery, clothes, fabrics, leather-goods, precious stones, gold, silver, porcelain, spices, sweets, Ayurveda potions… One can find anything, ranging from a needle to an elephant, and speaking of elephants, Jaipur is well known for hosting a large elephant festival which takes place every year concurrently with the Holi festivities. The Kachwaha rulers of the principality of Jaipur have always been patrons of the arts. Through various foundations, this custom prevailed even after India had proclaimed its independence and maharajas left the historical scene. The city offers plenty of material for anyone with a storytelling talent, so it is not surprising that the largest literature festival in all of Asia takes place there. Moreover, it is regarded as the largest informal festival of literature in the world, in terms of attendance, free access and participation of a widely diverse profile of authors, ranging from local storytellers to Nobel Prize winners and bards of global literature, such as Naipal, Pamuk and Rushdie.

A crowded bus is bouncing along a bumpy road as we meander downhill towards Pushkar. A charming and picturesque town by a calm lake is the kind of sanctuary any traveller would seek to find respite in from a long trip across India. However, this is only possible in times when the town is not host to pilgrimages and fairs or during the wedding season itself. Pushkar is the city of the god of creation - Brahma. The most wellknown temple dedicated to him is located in town. There is an interesting myth as to why Brahma’s temples are otherwise scarce in India. Having noticed a demon who wanted to harm humanity, Brahma killed him with a lotus. As the flower struck Vajranabh, its petals fell to the ground and formed three lakes. The victorious Brahma decided to carry out a ritual of fiery sacrifice at the biggest lake. In order to properly finish it, he had to have his divine partner with him. Since Saraswati was not yet present during the key moment of the ritual, Brahma married a Gurjar girl, Gayatri, and completed the ceremony. Once Saraswati finally appeared at the lake, she was stunned… She was so enraged that she cursed the entire Vedic Pantheon, and forbade her unfaithful husband to be worshipped anywhere else in India. Pushkar means “blue lotus” in Sanskrit. Unlike Jaipur, Pushkar is among the oldest settlements in India. It is located approximately a hundred kilometres southwest, beneath the pass that separates it from Ajmer. Both cities are major pilgrimage destinations, one for Hindus, and the other for Muslims. Ajmer is home to the renowned Muslim shrine of Dargah Sharif - the sacred grave of Sufi saint, Moinuddin Chishti, who founded the Chishti dervish order in the 12th century. Four centuries later, the Mogul leader Akbar, a major patron and follower of the Chishti, undertook the pilgrimage from Agra to Ajmer every year. Apart from his conquests, he was also known as a good ruler who promoted religious tolerance in times when Europe was suffocating under the futility of religious bigotry. The wise emperor, who would later, deservedly, gain the nickname, The Great, recognized the potential of religious pluralism in the country he ruled. Akbar had a special relationship with the Hindu Rajput. He won over numerous clans, which were relentless in battle, by marrying his princes with the Rajput princesses. The first of the emperor’s many wives, Mariam-uz-Zamani Begum, was the daughter of a Rajput king. The Baraat wedding processions are a common sight on the streets. They are loud and the processions are long; they include trumpeters and percussionists who accompany

the mounted groom to his wedding. This is just a part of the custom and ritual. Indian weddings last a week, and they end with a major celebration after the main ceremony. Encountering such a street festivity in smaller places, like Pushkar, is almost a certainty. Visitors are often absorbed by the procession, and frequently end up at the bride’s home with the rest of the guests. Weddings are extremely important events, which the Indians prepare for their entire lives. Once again, the law of big numbers comes into play. A major portion of the wedding budget is spent on saving. Indian families, obsessed with purchasing gold in any form and amount they can afford, secure a prosperous future for their descendants as a result. The fact that some ten million Indian couples marry every year has made the national demand for gold a global matter. The rich and famous are particularly picky when it comes to weddings, and they demand the royal treatment; where else can they get it than from the Land of Kings - Rajasthan? Many old palaces, villas, fountains and pavilions have become venues for elite Indian weddings. Companies, such as the Historic Resort Hotels and Taj Hotels Resorts & Palaces offer complete wedding arrangements, from providing venues to organizing the entire event. Pushkar is globally-renowned for its camel fair, which takes place every year in October or November as part of the pilgrimage and Kartik Poornima Festival. At the edge of town, by the path leading to the temple of goddess Saraswati, there is a huge field which is very lively during the fair. The roar of camels, the murmur of people, song and dance… The rhythm of percussion instruments can be heard everywhere as dust clouds the fairground. For a foreigner, this is Rajasthan on display, featuring a contest for best camel, best moustache, most beautiful bride, and the unavoidable tug-of-war where everyone participates. Bidding farewell to Pushkar, I leave the Aravalli Mountain range behind me and enter the Thar Desert. The rocky shrubbery gradually turns into sand. I arrive in Jodhpur, the heart of Rajasthan. Perched atop a red cliff above the spacious city is the Mehrangarh Fort. Proud, invincible and amazing, it is one of the largest fortifications in India. Its construction was started in 1460, by Maharaja Rao Jodha of Mandore, and took two centuries to complete. Trade in silk, opium, sandalwood, and copper, conducted by caravans passing through on their way between Gujarat and Delhi, was very profitable for the entire town. A winding path leads towards the palace at the top. Most of

its chambers are open to visitors. They house one of the most valuable museum collections in Rajasthan, featuring royal palanquins, arms and art. It also features different variations of the turban, with demonstrations of how to wrap several metres of fabric around one’s head. In Rajasthan, such a head-covering is also called Pagari, and apart from being a sign of honour and social status, it is a practical male accessory for life on the move, which can come in handy as a cushion, a blanket or a towel. The high balconies and walls command a spectacular view of the city, its surroundings and the almost always blue skies. Other notable landmarks include the largest private residence in the world - the majestic Umaid Bhawan Palace, the picturesque Sadar Bazar with a clock-tower, and the Jaswan Thada Mausoleum. The latter is located in the vicinity of the fort, in a place where Jodhpur leaders were once cremated. It was built out of white marble, like the Mughal Taj Mahal. The Rajput looked up to their Mughal contemporaries in many ways, nurturing a great desire to outdo them. In terms of architecture and construction, they certainly succeeded. Jodhpur is also known as Sun City, or unofﬁcially Blue City, due to the predominant colour of the building facades. However, it is primarily

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Tvrđava Jaisalmer Jaisalmer Fortress

a city of great local cuisine. Exotically named specialties, such as Kachori, Mirchi Bad and Dal Baati Churma, as well as various sweets, are among the best of what the Indian national gastronomy has to offer. The Rajasthan cuisine is very intense and spicy, and scarcely found water is often substituted with milk. The local cuisine is predominantly vegetarian, but since the desert has scarce vegetation, it is also known for some very tasty meat dishes, such as hot mutton curry - Laal Maans. At the end of the journey, only a few dozen kilometres from the Pakistani border, there is nothing but a vastness of sand-dunes. Thar is a desert where the air is never still and the waves of sand are in constant motion. The warm Loo wind, which announces the arrival of a monsoon, additionally warming the sub-continent, disperses sand everywhere. Exposed to these winds is Jaisalmer, considered by many as the most spectacular city in Rajasthan and very much worth a visit. There

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are huge wind-turbines in the distance, but then, as if in a fairy-tale, the golden-yellow towers emerge on the horizon, perched on a rocky knoll and contrasted against the blue sky. Unlike other historic forts, Jaisal Singa is fully inhabited. Approximately a quarter of the city’s population lives within its walls. Many of them earn a living by renting out accommodation facilities, so the citadel is the ultimate place for visitors to stay at. However, projections for the preservation of the UNESCO jewel are not very promising. Built on delicate, sediment ground, the fort is slowly sliding, so visitors are encouraged to seek accommodation beyond the city walls, were accommodation is plentiful, ranging in type from luxurious hotels and desert resorts, to cheap but pleasant guest-houses. Founded in the 12th century, the city walls have borne witness to many battles, and almost as many film and TV productions, ranging from Bollywood hits to reality shows. It was built up overseeing the caravan routes from Persia, across the desert, towards the east. In the 17th and 18th centuries, rich, merchant aristocracy developed in the city, but Jaisalmer finally lost its significance with the growth of the harbour city of Bombay. The main branches of economy today are tourism and the closelyrelated services industry. Spending time in the city feels like being in a time-warp, where each clunk of the chisel against stone reverberates with a different past, with Raja’s palaces and courts in the fort, with the luxurious city villas, or with the famous haveli - homes of rich merchants and jewellers… It is wonderful to sit on one of the balconies, enjoying a cup of tea whilst observing the city below. Jaisalmer is a town of merchants, a cheerful atmosphere and loads of sunshine. The well-being and prosperity of the city are believed to stem from its patron - Ganesha, a humanlike deity with the head of an elephant. His image adorns

many houses around the city. Along with Hindu temples, there are also several Jain temples across the city. As an ascetic and peaceful religion, Jainism has found most of its followers among the well-to-do merchants, so next to Gujarat, Rajasthan is the state with the most Jains in India. The bazaar beneath the walls features a true Indian curiosity - the Bang Lassi Shop. It is a small store which has become globally renowned for the fact that it is the only place in India where the consumption of dried marijuana leaves crushed into a fruit-shake is allowed. The price-list reveals it is available in three sizes; light, strong, and super-duper sexy extra strong. In the end, the desert is deﬁnitely worth a visit; you can go either on a tourist safari, offered everywhere, or privately, on a rented motorcycle. Riding

through the remote shepherd villages, experiencing the dunes, listening to unusual stories and seeing the enchanting choreography of Kalbelia dancers are all an unforgettable experience. It is difﬁcult to write everything on a particular country in just a few pages, and perhaps, it is not even necessary. In the end, something always remains beyond reach, such as Bikaner in the north, or Udaipur and Bundi in the south. Windy and half deserted, Rajasthan has always been the historic highway between the Himalayas and the ocean, stretching across the fertile valleys of the Ganges and Indus Rivers, all the way to the sea ports of Gujarat. It has been the place of many caravans and pilgrimages, fought over by many armies and paid for dearly. Noble, hospitable and casual, it is, nowadays, open to anyone. It doesn’t let go of its grip easily and it remains forever inviting.

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Mladen Šaric

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DIZAJN DESIGN

Piπe/By Dubravka Prpić Znaor

Dobar i zanimljiv dizajn daleko putuje, uz, dakako, nužan trud i rad. Pišemo o nekima od naπih autora koji su uspjeli recentne kreacije, bilo da je rijeË o modnome ili produkt oblikovanju, plasirati daleko izvan granica Hrvatske.

Mladen Šaric

Good and interesting design has a wide reach, provided a great deal of effort and work goes into it. Presented here are some of our designers who have managed to sell their recent designs and creations, fashion or product design, well beyond the borders of Croatia.

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Mare Milin

LINK

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Mare Milin

LINK CROATIA AIRLINES

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Mladen Šaric

BOUDOIR

preko inozemnih sajmova koji su uglavnom locirani u svjetskim metropolama. Naπi su prvi sajmovi bili Düsseldorf, Berlin i London. Dakle u poËetku smo se fokusirali na europsko træiπte. Poslije je doπla Amerika, Kanada i Rusija. Rekla bih da su nas sami kupci odvukli u tom smjeru. Nakon niz godina rada na domaÊoj sceni, za odlazak na vanjsko træiπte i prisutnost u nekima od concept trgovina priprema se i studio Boudoir, koji tvore naπe dizajnerice Morana

Mladen Šaric

ni su Igor DobraniÊ, LINK, Baggizmo, Boudoir, Grupa i Klupa koja predstavlja Hrvatsku. ∑ Ono πto je krucijalno da bi se brend probio u inozemstvu jest dizajn na prvome mjestu, zatim kvaliteta i svakako pouzdanost − kaže Ogi Antunac iz modnog studija LINK, u kojemu radi s kolegom Zoranom Mrvoπem. - Nema tog buyera koji Êe vas kupiti dvaput ako neπto nije bilo u redu ili na vrijeme isporuËeno. Takoer, vaæna je πirina ponude ∑ istiËe Igor DobraniÊ, koji takoer posjeÊuje sajmove u Düsseldorfu, Londonu, New Yorku, Montrealu, Münchenu, Moskvi, Kopenhagenu, Las Vegasu… i preko njih plasira svoje kolekcije. - Moj dizajn odgovara æenama od 20 do 80 godina. Vlastiti brend gradim na temeljima dobrog stila, a ne sezonskih trendova. Upravo zato moje su kolekcije u poznatim trgovinama na atraktivnim lokacijama kao πto su Madison Avenue u New Yorku, Covent Garden u Londonu, Helsinki, Salzburg, BeË, Hamburg, Moskva, Chicago, Montreal… zatim u Helsinkiju i Hamburgu u concept trgovini, koja prodaje i kreacije Isseya Miyakea. Nedavno sam odjenuo i Patti La Belle, ikonu ameriËke soul glazbe. Njezina je stilistica izmeu 500 dizajnera na sajmu izabrala upravo moje kreacije. Iskreno, sve je to rad i disciplina, krvav je to posao. Na sajmovima nema recepta, no oni su svojevrstan ﬁltar i test kvalitete. Na njima prolazi iskljuËivo vrhunski dizajn s odliËnom kvalitetom tkanine. Nema ovdje kompromisa. Kad shvatite da ste u ponudi meu 800 brendova, onda je jasno da se neËime morate istaknuti i biti najbolji πto moæete. Jer kupci za prodavaonice toËno znaju πto je dobro a πto je loπe. I, dakako, sve je unaprijed − ove jeseni zavrπavam kolekciju za sljedeÊu zimu. Najljepπe od svega jest to πto je na europskim sajmovima moje træiπte apsolutno cijeli svijet. Ponosan sam - dodaje - i na to πto na primjer jedna od trgovina u Helsinkiju prodaje moje kreacije i one spomenutog brenda LINK, kao i rad koji potpisuje proslavljeni danski dizajner Ivan Grundahl. I Ogi Antunac iz LINK-a istiËe prisutnost na svjetskoj sceni. ∑ Sad se prodajemo u zemljama na europskom, ameriËkom, kanadskom i ruskom træiπtu. Prednosti su πto se znaju pravila poslovanja, znaËi radi se pravi modni posao. Kolekcija ide u serijsku proizvodnju i tako æivi na træiπtu, znaËi dolazi do krajnjih kupaca diljem svijeta. To nas beskrajno veseli. SreÊem ljude koji nose naπe komade i uopÊe nas ne poznaju, to mi je najdraæe. U ekonomskom smislu prednost je ta πto proizvodimo velike koliËine odjeÊe, tako u tome sudjeluju hrvatske tvornice, pa svakako pripadamo i u hrvatski izvozni proizvod. Modni bussiness se odvija

SaraËeviÊ i Martina »iËko-KarapetriÊ. Nedavno im se osobito pojaËala prodaja preko web shopa na ameriËko træiπte, koje se oduπevilo njihovim capsule kolekcijama, stoga je vrijeme da u vezi s tim poduzmu i neke konkretne korake, istiËu u Boudoiru. Dakle i taj brend uskoro oËekuju promjene i πirenje ponude, pa je oËito da je njihov, kako istiËu, gothlite u cruise kolekciji, naiπao na plodno tlo. InaËe poznate po æenstvenim i bajkovitim haljinama koje su napravljene tehnikama visoke mode, od eteriËne Ëipke Ëiju teksturu same osmiπljavaju, njihove su kreacije kod nas Ëest izbor mladenki.

BOUDOIR

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BOUDOIR

rade zajedno te su svoje radove predstavljale na brojnim tjednima i festivalima dizajna diljem Evrope. Posljednja u ovom prikazu, no ne manje vaæna, jest Grupa, slavni dizajn kolektiv koji tvore Filip Despot, Ivana PaviÊ i Tihana Taraba. Ove je godine njihov dizajn sudjelovao na sajmovima Wanteddesign u New Yorku sa svjetiljkama Model i ILI_ILI te na sajmu Masion et Objet u Parizu i Salone internazionale del Mobile i u Milanu s kolekcijom Monk u suradnji s proizvoaËem Prostoria. ©koljka naslonjača Monk napravljena je od dvije savijene πperploËe tapecirane u tkaninu, pod kojom se otkriva jednostavan drveni konstrukcijski masiv hrasta. Rukonaslon je dio sjedala, a cijela πkoljka vizualno se doima

kao da lebdi neovisno o svom razmjerno neupadljivom osloncu. RijeË je o hommageu retro namjeπtaju i o igri tipologijama. Monk dolazi u dvije varijante − stolca i naslonjača − koji dijele isti gornji dio konstrukcije, a donji (noge) je viπi i uspravljen u inaËici stolca, a niæi u inaËici naslonjača. Zajedno, dva Monka sjedinjuju svakodnevne funkcije rada i kontemplacije. Iza svjetiljke Arigato u svim njenim varijacijama jednostavan je autorski iskaz, a to je materijalizirati skromnu ljudsku gestu zahvalnosti dizajnom jednoga svakodnevnog predmeta. U Arigatu, Grupa se igra idejom kako dizajnirani predmeti mogu simbolizirati (ili u ovom sluËaju Ëak oponaπati) stavove, a istodobno ostati vrlo blizu svom arhetipskom obliku, pa i raﬁnirati ga do potpune ogoljenosti.

Duško Vlaovic

No, jednako uspjeπno Boudoir koketira s gotikom u pastelima. − To je zapravo pastel goth, supkultura s karakteristiËnim motivima kao πto su njeæni tonovi lavande i ruæiËaste, s kontrastom kosturskih glava, mase cvijeÊa… ∑ istiËe Morana SaraËeviÊ. Hrvatska scena ima i pametan dizajn: projekt torbe Baggizmo, koja se s pametnim ureajima povezuje uz pomoÊ Bluetootha, pokrenuo je Ladislav JuriÊ, menadæer u IT-u, koji je prvog partnera u projektu naπao u svojoj supruzi, meunarodno nagraivanoj dizajnerici Izvorki JuriÊ. Ona je za Baggizmo razvila brend-strategiju i strategiju razvoja proizvoda, a dizajn same torbe potpisuje studio za dizajn Manufakturist. Ta je torba nakon veoma uspjeπne svjetske kampanje na Kickstarteru uπla u prvu seriju proizvodnje muπkog modela. Da, najprije je zamiπljena kao dodatak za njega, ali potraænja je rezultirala time da se sada radi i Baggizmo za æene. RijeË je o praktiËnoj i tankoj torbi za gadgete, dizajniranoj za mobilnost i sve odjevne stilove bez potrebe odlaganja sa strane, koja je izazvala znaËajan odjek na ameriËkom, azijskom i europskom træiπtu. Tijekom ove jeseni prva Êe se serija torbi od visoko inovativnog materijala, ali i od vrhunske nappa koæe, poslati prvim poklonicima Baggizma, koji su ga naruËili za vrijeme Kickstarter kampanje odræane tijekom lipnja ove godine. Ladislav i Izvorka JuriÊ, voditelji brenda Baggizmo, planiraju u bliskoj buduÊnosti dodavanje novih materijala i funkcionalnosti, a osim æenske linije Baggizma, dizajnirati i liniju za torbe za πkolarce te slijepe osobe. Spomenut Êemo joπ jedan, no potpuno drugaËiji dizajn, studija Manufakturist. Njihovu je klupu odabrala selekcijska komisija i Grad Strasbourg kao klupu koja predstavlja Hrvatsku. Ovaj je odabir, istiËu autorice Mia Bogovac, Matea BroniÊ, Maπa Milovac i Kristina Volf, javno priznanje kvalitete profesionalnog djelovanja dizajn studija. ∑ PoËaπÊene smo i zbog europskog konteksta cijelog projekta, gdje Êe hrvatski dizajn proizvod biti ravnopravno predstavljen s proizvodima europskih kolega i proizvoaËa, a upravo je jedan od ciljeva projekta promidžba razmjene iskustava i dobrih praksi izmeu kolega dizajnera. Svoju klupu autorice opisuju kao rad vedrih tonova, oble linije i topline prirodnog materijala. Klupe Manufakturist pozivaju na predah od svakodnevnih aktivnosti. Ovisno o orijentaciji sjedenja, klupa nudi odabir æeljene vizure grada, a pomicanjem naslona kreira intimniji ili otvoreniji prostor i raspoloæenje. Mia Bogovac, Matea BroniÊ, Maπa Milovac i Kristina Volf zavrπile su studij dizajna pri zagrebaËkom Arhitektonskom fakultetu i veÊ nekoliko godina

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Duško Vlaovic

GRUPA

ILI_ILI svjetiljka ima πest razliËitih elemenata, koje je jednostavnim povezivanjem moguÊe sastaviti u mnogo razliËitih viseÊih oblika. Dimenzijama prilagoeni elementi meusobno se povezuju prihvatnim kopËama. Kombiniranjem tri nijanse zelene, æute, plave i sive dobivamo monokromne ili viπebojne visjelice. Proizvod omogućuje korisnicima da oblikuju vlastitu idealnu kombinaciju, moguÊnost je izbora velika 126

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i, kao πto i naziv proizvoda kaæe, moguÊe ih je sloæiti ILI ovako ILI onako.

hey are Igor DobraniÊ, LINK, Baggizmo, Boudoir, Grupa and The Bench which Represents Croatia. Design is absolutely the most crucial prerequisite for a brand’s success abroad, followed by quality and reliability, says Ogi Antunac of LINK

Fashion Studio, where she works with her colleague Zoran Mrvoπ. There is no buyer who will purchase an item over again if something was wrong with it the ﬁrst time or it wasn’t delivered on time. Product range is also important, according to Igor DobraniÊ, who visits fairs in Dusseldorf, London, New York, Montreal, Munich, Moscow, Copenhagen and Las Vegas in order to promote his collections. My

Hrvoje Zalukar

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Russian markets. The advantages of this are that the rules for conducting business are firmly established, so it is a real fashion business. The collection is mass produced, and therefore, exists in numerous markets, reaching customers across the world. This makes us very happy. I meet people who wear our pieces and they have no idea who we are, which is what I prefer the most! In the economic sense, our competitive edge is that we produce large quantities of clothes in Croatian factories, which makes us a genuine Croatian export brand. The fashion business is conducted at international fairs, mostly taking place in capitals worldwide. The first fairs we attended were in Düsseldorf, Berlin and London. In the beginning, we focused on the European market, but later, we also expanded to America, Canada and Russia. I would say the buyers themselves steered us in that direction. After many years on the domestic market, Studio Boudoir, run by designers Morana SaraËeviÊ and Martina »iËko-KarapetriÊ, is also preparing to expand into foreign markets and sell their products in some of the concept stores abroad. Recently, they have significantly increased the volume of their web-shop sales on the American market, where their capsule collections are captivating the attention of fashionistas, so the Boudoir team has decided to take concrete steps in that direction. Their brand will also expand its range, so it is obvious that their Gothlite in Cruise

IGOR DOBRANIĆ

designs suit women between the ages of 20 and 80. I base my brand on good styling, not seasonal trends. That is why my collections are available in prestigious stores in attractive locations, such as on Madison Avenue in New York, in Covent Garden in London, as well as in Helsinki, Salzburg, Vienna, Hamburg, Moscow, Chicago, Montreal… In Hamburg, my collections are available in a concept store which also sells designs by Issey Miyake. I recently dressed Patti La Belle, an icon of American soul music. Among the 500 designers at the fair, her stylist chose my designs. Honestly, it’s all about work and discipline; it’s a difﬁcult job. There is no recipe for doing fairs, but they are a ﬁlter of sorts and a test of quality. Only top design and exquisite quality and 128

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materials count. There are no compromises. When you realize you are in competition with 800 other brands, it becomes clear you must ﬁnd a way to stand out, and be the best you can be because retailers know the difference between good and bad all too well. Of course, you also have to look ahead; this autumn, I will be completing my collection for next winter. The best thing of all is that European fairs open the door to global markets. He is also proud that a store in Helsinki sells his designs, as well as those of the aforementioned LINK brand, alongside designs by renowned Danish designer Ivan Grundahl. Ogi Antunac of LINK also talks of their presence on the international scene. We currently sell in European, American, Canadian and

CÉLINE, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, CHLOÉ, AZZEDINE ALAÏA, RICK OWENS, MARNI, STELLA MCCARTNEY, PROENZA SCHOULER, ALEXANDER WANG, MONCLER GAMME ROUGE, PETER PILOTTO, MAISON MARGIELA, MARY KATRANTZOU, VIKA GAZINSKAYA, ATHENA PROCOPIOU, M2MALLETIER, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, IVI JEWELRY, ACHERALI KNOFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, ERICKSON BEAMON, TOM BINNS, GIANVITO ROSSI, LINDA FARROW LUXE, VICKI SARGE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 Outlet Zagreb, Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 17, 01-4860843 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr facebook.com/mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr CROATIA AIRLINES

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MANUFAKTURIST

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expand the offer to include bags for schoolkids and blind people. Another totally different design by the Manufakturist Studio is their bench, chosen by the selection commission and the City of Strasbourg as a bench representative of Croatia. Designers Mia Bogovac, Matea BroniÊ, Maπa Milovac and Kristina Volf say this is public recognition of the quality and professionalism of the design studio. We are honoured that the project was included in the European context, whereby products of Croatian design will be equally represented along with the products of European colleagues and manufacturers; one of the main goals of the project is to promote the exchange of experiences and cooperation amongst designers. The designers describe their bench as a colourful object, with curved lines and made out of warm natural materials. The Manufakturist bench invites people to relax after their daily activities. Depending on the seating orientation, the bench offers a selection of a desired cityscape view, and moving the back-rest creates a more intimate or more open space as well as mood. Mia Bogovac, Matea BroniÊ, Maπa Milovac and Kristina Volf are design graduates from the Faculty of Architecture in Zagreb; they have been working together for several years now, and have presented their work at numerous design festivals across Europe. Last but certainly not least in this story is Grupa, a famous design group consisting of Filip Despot, Ivana PaviÊ and Tihana Taraba. This year, they participated at the Wanteddesign Fair in New York, with their Model and ILI_ILI lamps, as well as the Maison et Objet Fair in Paris and the Salone Internazionale del

Mobile in Milano, with their Monk collection created in cooperation with furniture manufacturer, Prostoria. The Monk shell-armchair is constructed out of two bent pieces of plywood, upholstered in a fabric that reveals a simple, massive oak frame. The arm-support is part of the seat, and the entire shell seems like it is levitating independently of its inconspicuous support frame. It pays homage to retro furniture and a typology game. Monk is available in two variations − chair and armchair, which share the same upper construction, while the lower part, the legs are higher and straighter in the chair version, but lower in the armchair version. Together, the two unify the daily functions of work and relaxation. The Arigato lamp in all of its versions is a result of the designer’s desire to materialize a humble gesture of gratitude through the design of an everyday item. In terms of the Arigato lamp, Grupa toys had the idea of design items symbolising (or in this case, even imitating) attitudes, while remaining close to its archetypal shape, and even reﬁning it down to the bare essentials. The ILI_ILI (either-or) lamp has six different elements, easy to combine into a great number of different hanging shapes. The matching elements can be connected with clips. By combining three shades of green, yellow, blue and grey, we get monochromatic or multicoloured hanging lamps. The product offers its users the opportunity to create their own ideal combination. The selection options are numerous, and as the name of the product suggests, it can be put together in two different ways.

Blazing star

collection has found fertile ground. Famous for their feminine and fairy-tale-like dresses, made, according to high-fashion standards, out of etheric lace whose texture they design themselves - their designs are frequently worn by brides. With equal success, Boudoir also dabbles in pastel gothic style. The so-called pastel goth is a subculture with characteristic motifs, such as soft shades of lavender and pink, contrasted with skulls and flowers, says Morana SaraËeviÊ. The Croatian scene offers smart design: the project of the Baggizmo bag, which connects to smartphones via Bluetooth, was launched by Ladislav JuriÊ, an IT manager, whose first partner was his wife, the internationally renowned designer Izvorka JuriÊ. She has developed the brand strategy and the strategy of product development for Baggizmo, while the design of the bag itself was developed by the Manufakturist Design Studio. After an extremely successful global campaign on Kickstarter, the male model went into production. Although it was originally fashioned as a male accessory, the demand led to production of the female Baggizmo model. The practical, thin bag for gadgets, designed for absolute mobility and all clothing styles, has achieved great success on the American, Asian and European markets. This autumn, the first series of bags made out of highly innovative materials, including top class nappa leather, will reach the first fans of Baggizmo, who ordered theirs during the Kickstarter campaign held in June. In the near future, Ladislav and Izvorka JuriÊ, heads of the Baggizmo brand, are planning to play with new materials and develop additional functionality, as well as

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POVIJEST SPAVANJA ŽELJA ZA UDOBNOŠĆU TEK OD NOVOG VIJEKA THE HISTORY OF SLEEPING THE DESIRE FOR CONVENIENCE ONLY SINCE THE NEW CENTURY

ovi vijek poËeo je daleke 1492. godine, a navike spavanja bile su potpuno drugaËije nego danas. Seljaci su spavali na podu, sretniji na madracima od slame, a gospoda su ipak æeljela - perje. Kreveti su i dalje bili luksuz. Veliki luksuz koji su si mogli priuπtiti samo kraljevi i lordovi, grofovi ili vlastela. Zanimljivo je da su kreveti imali zastore koji su zbog nekog razloga bili vrlo visoki i ponekad postavljeni na platformu. Oni zaista bogati ispod svojih kreveta dræali su sluπkinje, ma kako to zvuËalo grozno danas. Sluge su spavali ispod kreveta gospodara na drvenom leæaju. U 16. stoljeÊu pojavile su se neke inovacije na području spavanja. Jastuci su dobili svoju ulogu u spavanju, a madraci od slame bili su zamijenjeni madracima od vune. Inovacije, kao πto su posteljina od perja i mekane plahte, poËele su se πiriti. Sve viπe bogatih æeljelo je takve tople krevete. Sve je to bilo tako skupo da se nasljeivalo oporukama. Najbolji kreveti sastojali su se od platnenog madraca punjenog vunom, slamom ili perjem. Ispod

tog madraca nalazio se joπ jedan sloj platna. Takav krevet bio je pravi luksuz. Sva sreÊa što nismo viπe u novom vijeku jer si mnogo bolji luksuz danas moæe priuπtiti bilo tko. Pogotovo uz takvu ponudu madraca i kreveta u salonima Perfecta Dreams. Svaki je madrac iz linije Perfecta Dreams dizajniran, proizveden i provjeren s osobitom pozornoπÊu. Perfecta Dreams madrac osigurava vam maksimalnu usklaenost zdravoga i komfornog sna, idealan oslonac te ispravan poloæaj tijela, osigurava regulaciju temperature, blagotvorni uËinak kod raznih reumatskih oboljenja i naposljetku ugodno prospavane noÊi.

Modern Age began back in 1492, but sleeping habits were completely different than today. The villagers were sleeping on the floor, only lucky ones on mattresses of straw, but gentlemen yet wanted - feathers. Beds were still a luxury. A great luxury that could afford only Kings and Lords, Counts or Nobles. It is interesting that the beds had curtains which, for some reason, were very high and sometimes placed on the platform. Those really wealthy kept maids under their beds, no matter how it sounds awful today. The servants slept under the master’s bed on a simple wooden bed. In the 16th century, there have been some innovations in the field of sleeping. Pillows began to be pillows and mattresses of straw were replaced with mattresses made of wool. Innovations, such as bedding with feathers and soft sheets, began to spread. More and more wealthy people wanted such warm bedding. All of this were so expensive that was inherited through generations. Best beds were consistent of a canvas mattress filled with wool, straw or feathers. Underneath the mattress there was another layer of cotton. Bed like this was a real luxury. Luckily, we are no longer in the Modern Age, because anyone can afford even better luxury today. Especially with such range of mattresses and beds in Perfecta Dreams stores. With Perfecta Dreams mattress you’ll get maximum compatibility of healthy and comfortable sleep, the ideal support and correct posture, assured temperature control, beneficial effects in various rheumatic diseases and ultimately pleasant night.

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Completely different experience with Perfecta Dreams beds... Perfect experience.

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE

U odnosu na broj stanovnika i veliËinu dræave, Hrvati i Hrvatska Europi su i svijetu darovali natprosjeËno mnogo znanstvenika, kulturnjaka, prosvjetitelja, izumitelja, ratnika, svetih ljudi, talentiranih sportaπa i stvaratelja na drugim podruËjima æivota, koji su ostavili veoma znaËajne tragove u razvoju europskog kontinenta, doprinosu svjetskoj civilizaciji te stvaranju, razvoju i oËuvanju Hrvatske. In relation to the population and size of the country, Croats and

TKO SU NAJVEĆI HRVATSKI VELIKANI

WHO ARE THE GREATEST CROATIAN GREATS

e postoje narodi, ni dræave, koji ne Ëuvaju i ne slave uspomenu barem na neke ljude iz svoje proπlosti, koji su ih za æivota zaduæili svojim djelima ili njihovo ime proslavili u svijetu. Te ljude nazivamo velikanima, njima u Ëast imenujemo trgove i ulice, izraujemo umjetniËka djela, gradimo institucije i skladamo opere. Oni nam sluæe kao ponos, uzor i model poæeljnog djelovanja. Neki su svojim djelom nadiπli nacionalne granice i zaduæili ËovjeËanstvo pa se oËekuje da ih poznajemo, a neki su potpuno nepravedno ostali u sjeni povijesnih dogaanja… Koji vam velikan najprije padne na um kad je posrijedi Hrvatska? Prema jednom istraæivanju najËeπÊe se uz Hrvatsku veæe Nikola Tesla, jedan od najveÊih izumitelja 20. stoljeÊa, koji nam je podario izmjeniËnu struju, a roen je u GospiÊu u Lici te se πkolovao u GospiÊu i Karlovcu. Drugi velikan, koji se najËeπÊe veæe uz Hrvatsku, DubrovËanin je Ruer BoπkoviÊ, preteËa Einsteina i nedvojbeno jedan od najsvestranijih Hrvata svih vremena. Bio je matematiËar, astronom, geodet, ﬁziËar, teolog, ﬁlozof, diplomat, arheolog i pjesnik, a prije svega sveÊenik. Razvijao je europsku znanost 18. stoljeÊa djelujuÊi ponajviπe u Rimu, Milanu 134

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Croatia have given Europe and the world a large number of scientists, cultural workers, educators, inventors, warriors, holy men, talented athletes and creators in other areas of life who left quite signiﬁcant marks in the development of the European continent, the contribution to world civilization and the creation, development and preservation of Croatia.

Piπe/By Božo Skoko Fotograﬁje/Photos Ivo Pervan

i Parizu, ali i ostalim europskim metropolama tog vremena, od Londona i BeËa do Carigrada i Sankt Peterburga, ostavivπi znaËajna djela, Ëiji se utjecaj osjeÊao neprestano sve do poËetka 20. stoljeÊa. Dok su Teslini izumi na podruËju elektrotehnike i otkriÊa iz ﬁzike ostavili snaæan peËat, ne samo na svjetsku znanost, nego se njihova primjena odrazila i na poboljπanje kva-

Stjepan Radić

litete æivota uopÊe, zbog Ëega je stekao titulu Ëovjeka koji je izumio 20. stoljeÊe, BoπkoviÊ nije ostao zapamÊen po velikim izumima, nego je kao genijalni vizionar, preteËa i anticipator kasnijih spoznaja i teorija, bio zaËetnik moderne ﬁzike. Gotovo je nevjerojatna snaga intuicije zbog koje je BoπkoviÊu stoljeÊe i pol prije Einsteina mogla pasti na um ideja o relativnosti

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prostora i vremena, konstantnoj brzini svjetlosti i moguÊnosti prostora s Ëetiri dimenzije. ImajuÊi to na umu, ne zvuËi nam pretjerana tvrdnja Friedricha Nietzschea kako BoπkoviÊeva teorija o strukturi tvari, uz Kopernikovu ideju heliocentriËnog sustava, predstavlja najveÊi trijumf nad osjetilima, koji je do sada postignut. Uz tu dvojicu genijalaca roenih u Hrvatskoj, davno prije njih, Ëak prije nego što su Hrvati u 7. stoljeÊu naselili prostore uz Jadransko more, na prostoru danaπnje Hrvatske roena su dvojica svjetskih velikana. To su rimski car Dioklecijan i sveti Jeronim. Poznato je da je car Dioklecijan roen u Saloni, danaπnjem Solinu kraj Splita. Bio je vaæan dræavnik tadaπnjega Rimskog Carstva koje je modernizirao, reformirao, ojaËao i teritorijalno preustrojio. A oËito je bio zaljubljen u svoj rodni kraj i smatrao ga idealnim mjestom za æivot, Ëim je ondje odluËio podiÊi velebnu palaËu, u kojoj je, nakon abdikacije, doËekao starost i smrt. Iz te palaËe, Ëiji su kljuËni dijelovi ostali oËuvani do naπih dana i danas se nalazi pod zaπtitom Unesca, razvio se danaπnji grad Split, koji su stvarali i razvijali Hrvati, baπtineÊi bogato antiËko naslijee, postupno se stapajuÊi s romanskom kulturom i tamoπnjim stanovnicima. Hrvatska bi danas bez tog naslijea zacijelo bila sasvim drugaËija. Rimska vladavina na tlu danaπnje Hrvatske jamaËno je, uz grËke, omoguÊila 136

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kljuËne kulturoloπke preduvjete za integraciju tih krajeva u zapadnoeuropski civilizacijski krug te dugoroËno stvorila temelje za razvoj klasiËnih obiljeæja materijalne kulture, osobito na podruËju urbanizma, arhitekture i umjetnosti. Ipak, unatoË svim postignuÊima i bogatoj ostavπtini, Dioklecijan, kao progonitelj krπÊana, meu katoliËkim Hrvatima ne uæiva baπ veliko poπtovanje, ali mu moramo priznati kako je svojim djelom nesporno utjecao na hrvatsku povijest, ali i sadaπnjost. Za razliku od Dioklecijana kojega mnogi Hrvati ne smatraju svojim, izrazit konsenzus i poπtovanje u hrvatskome puku vlada prema svetom Jeronimu, iako je i on roen stoljeÊima prije dolaska Hrvata na Jadran. Sveti Jeronim oËito je bliæi hrvatskom vjerniËkom puku jer je u krπÊanskom svijetu cijenjen i poπtovan svetac koji je preveo Bibliju na latinski, a bio je poznat po svome juænjaËkom temperamentu i redovito se ponosio svojim dalmatinskim podrijetlom. »ak su ga i pape povezivale s Hrvatima kao baπtinicima njegova zaviËaja, a navodno su neki bili uvjereni kako je hrvatski bio njegov jezik te mu se Ëak pripisivalo i autorstvo staroga hrvatskog pisma − glagoljice. Zbog te stoljetne povezanosti sa svetim Jeronimom, kao svecem iz ovih krajeva, povijesna Bratovπtina za pomoÊ hrvatskim izbjeglicama, koja je utemeljena daleke 1453. u Rimu, nosila je njegovo ime. Toj je bratovπtini

papa Nikola V. darovao na upravljanje ruπevnu crkvicu svete Marine i zemljiπte uz nju na lijevoj obali Tibera, pokraj mauzoleja cara Augusta. Na zemljiπtu su sagradili gostinjac i bolnicu, a crkvu su obnovili te je posvetili baπ svetom Jeronimu, najveÊem NauËitelju u izlaganju Svetog pisma. Papa Pio V. uzdigao je 1566. crkvu sv. Jeronima na kardinalski naslov. TreÊim kardinalom naslovnikom 1570. postao je Felice Peretti iz Montalta, potomak hrvatskih doseljenika, i to je ostao do 1585. kad je izabran za papu, uzevπi ime Siksto V. (1585.-1590.). I tako smo dobili joπ jednoga hrvatskog velikana koji je to postao, ne mjestom roenja, nego podrijetlom i odnosom prema sunarodnjacima. Osim πto je pomagao hrvatskoj zajednici u Rimu, tijekom svoga pontiﬁkata zauzeo se i za dogradnju i ureenje crkve svetog Jeronima. Djelovanje dobrotvorne crkvene ustanove, njezinih institucija i crkve svetog Jeronima, papa Lav XIII. uzdigao je na joπ veÊu razinu te 1901. proglasio danas poznati Papinski hrvatski zavod svetog Jeronima. SliËno tumaËenje pripadnosti hrvatskim velikanima, poput svetog Jeronima, ima i sveti Marin s Raba, utemeljitelj San Marina, prve republike u Europi. Kako se sudbine velikih ljudi katkad isprepletu, govori podatak da je taj klesar napustio rodni otok i s prijateljem pobjegao u Rimini, baπ zbog progona krπÊana spomenutog cara

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Dioklecijana. Iako je roďŁżen prije dolaska Hrvata na jadranske otoke, tog sveca, Ă&#x2039;iji je blagdan u drĂŚavici San Marino nacionalni praznik, svijet povezuje s Hrvatskom. A da je i San Marino itekako svjestan njegova zaviĂ&#x2039;aja, svjedoĂ&#x2039;i to ĹĄto su San Marino i Rab potpisali Povelju o bratimljenju joĎ&#x20AC; 1968. godine, a Hrvatska i San Marino objavili su 2012. godine i zajedniĂ&#x2039;ku poĎ&#x20AC;tansku marku posveĂ&#x160;enu tradiciji dvaju gradova i svetom Marinu, koji ih povezuje. U odnosu na broj stanovnika i veliĂ&#x2039;inu drĂŚave, Hrvati i Hrvatska Europi su i svijetu darovali natprosjeĂ&#x2039;no mnogo znanstvenika, kulturnjaka, prosvjetitelja, izumitelja, ratnika, svetih ljudi, talentiranih sportaĎ&#x20AC;a i stvaratelja na drugim podruĂ&#x2039;jima ĂŚivota, koji su ostavili veoma znaĂ&#x2039;ajne tragove u razvoju europskog kontinenta, doprinosu svjetskoj civilizaciji te stvaranju, razvoju i oĂ&#x2039;uvanju Hrvatske. Mnogi su, naĂŚalost, zaboravljeni ili se njihov doprinos nedovoljno istiĂ&#x2039;e i slavi njihovo djelo. Jedan od njih je Anthony (Antun) Lucas LuĂ&#x2039;iĂ&#x160;. Taj SpliĂ&#x160;anin prvi je otkrio naftu u ameriĂ&#x2039;kom Teksasu i zapoĂ&#x2039;eo njezinu masovnu eksploataciju. U Americi je uvrĎ&#x20AC;ten meďŁżu 200 najzasluĂŚnijih Amerikanaca svih vremena, a u domovini veĂ&#x160;ina za njega nije ni Ă&#x2039;ula. Izum vitla Marija

PuratiĂ&#x160;a napravio je revoluciju u ameriĂ&#x2039;kom ribarstvu i zasluĂŚio svoje mjesto na novĂ&#x2039;anici od pet kanadskih dolara. Ivan VuĂ&#x2039;etiĂ&#x160; u Argentini je otkrio daktiloskopiju, odnosno odluĂ&#x2039;ujuĂ&#x160;e utjecao na otkrivanje zloĂ&#x2039;ina s pomoĂ&#x160;u otiska prsta. Veliki hrvatski znanstvenik Andrija MohoroviĂ&#x2039;iĂ&#x160; otkrio je slojevite zemljine kore i uzroke potresa, Milutin MilankoviĂ&#x160; razotkrio je tajnu ledenih doba, Ivan Lupis VukiĂ&#x160; izumio je torpedo, Dragutin GorjanoviĂ&#x160; Kramberger otkrio je ostatke praĂ&#x2039;ovjeka u Krapini, svestrani Slavoljub Penkala izumio je mehaniĂ&#x2039;ku olovku, David Shwartz zepelin, Benedikt KotruljeviĂ&#x160; dvostruko knjiĂŚenje u knjigovodstvu... Ivan Ratkaj bio je jedan od prvih europskih misionara meďŁżu ameriĂ&#x2039;kim Indijancima, a njegov kolega misionar Ferdinand KonĎ&#x20AC;Ă&#x160;ak prvi je dokazao da Kalifornija nije otok â&#x2C6;&#x2019; kako se do tada smatralo â&#x2C6;&#x2019; nego poluotok. Marko Polo, koji je po predaji roďŁżen na otoku KorĂ&#x2039;uli, Europi je pribliĂŚio Kinu, a gradiĎ&#x20AC;Ă&#x160;anski Hrvat Filip Vezdin pionir je europske indologije. BraĂ&#x160;a Seljan iz Karlovca, svjetski putnici i istraĂŚivaĂ&#x2039;i, smatraju se suutemeljiteljima moderne Etiopije. Mnogi su vjerojatno Ă&#x2039;uli za Fausta VranĂ&#x2039;iĂ&#x160;a, izumitelja padobrana i viseĂ&#x160;eg mosta, ali malo je poznat njegov prezimenjak Antun, hrvatski i ugarski

plemiĂ&#x160;, diplomat, pisac, nadbiskup i kardinal, koji se smatra jednim od najveĂ&#x160;ih hrvatskih politiĂ&#x2039;ara u europskoj politici. DubrovaĂ&#x2039;ki isusovci Rajmund KuniĂ&#x160; i Bernard Zamagna preveli su zahtjevna Homerova djela, a Herman Dalmatin Kurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;an â&#x2C6;&#x2019; na latinski. Splitski nadbiskup a poslije heretik, Marko Antun de Dominis, za ĂŚivota je dogurao do poloĂŚaja dekana Windsora i glavara Savoya u Engleskoj, Ď&#x20AC;to je bila velika kraljevska Ă&#x2039;ast udijeljena nekom strancu, a zatim je skonĂ&#x2039;ao u AnďŁżeoskoj palaĂ&#x2039;i u Rimu. A kad smo kod Engleske, malo je poznato da je upravo engleski kralj Henrik VIII. oboĂŚavao djela Oca hrvatske knjiĂŚevnosti Marka MaruliĂ&#x160;a, koja su u to doba bila europski bestselleri. Hrvatski latinizam, posebice u doba humanizma, ima istinsko europsko znaĂ&#x2039;enje i Europa tog doba nezamisliva je bez doprinosa Hrvata. Dovoljno je spomenuti imena poput Janusa Panoniusa i Ivana Viteza od Sredne. Mnogi talijanski gradovi koje godiĎ&#x20AC;nje posjeĂ&#x160;uju milijuni turista, za znaĂ&#x2039;ajan dio svoje ljepote moraju zahvaliti hrvatskim graditeljima i umjetnicima (Lucijan Vranjanin sagradio je tvrďŁżavu Rocca Constanza u Pesaru i palaĂ&#x2039;u vojvode Federica Montefeletra u Urbinu, koja se smatra remekdjelom svjetske renesansne arhitekture). Juraj CROATIA AIRLINES

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August Šenoa

Julije KloviÊ bio je jedan od najveÊih europskih majstora sitnoslikarstva, te ga je njegov uËenik El Greco uzdigao meu najveÊe velikane renesansnog slikarstva, zajedno s Michelangelom Rafaelom i Tizianom. Andrija MeduliÊ bio je uzor Tizianu i Tintorettu te najistaknutiji predstavnik talijanskog manirizma. Sjaj stare Austrije i Ugarske nezamisliv je bez velikog doprinosa hrvatskih plemiÊa, nadbiskupa, diplomata, vojskovoa, pjesnika i prosvjetitelja. Hrvatski narodni preporod i godine koje su mu prethodile izrodio je toliko vrsnih imena na svim podruËjima djelovanja i mnoge velikane, podrijetlom iz drugih naroda i dræava, motivirao 142

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da se jasno i glasno izjaπnjavaju Hrvatima te daju nemjerljiv obol stvaranju moderne nacije. U 20. stoljeÊu hrvatski knjiæevnici, umjetnici i znanstvenici ukorak su pratili suvremene globalne trendove, a mnogi od njih kreirali su i vlastite kreativne i inovativne doprinose koje je svijet oduπevljeno prihvaÊao. Umjetnici poput Ivana MeπtroviÊa, Frane KrπiniÊa, Antuna AugustinËiÊa, Vojina BakiÊa i Duπana Dæamonje nezaobilazna su imena svjetskog kiparstva. Mnogi od hrvatskih velikana, koji su za æivota ostavili traga u Hrvatskoj i diljem svijeta, ﬁlmski su atraktivna imena, o kojima se mogu pisati napeti romani i snimati igrani ﬁlmovi… S

druge strane, za mnoge koje poznajemo nismo znali da su hrvatskog podrijetla. Jedna je od takvih osoba i muza slavnog Pabla Picassa i jedna od najvaænijih æena europske avangarde, fotografkinja Dora Maar, koja je bila hrvatskog podrijetla. Nazivi ulica i trgova u hrvatskim gradovima moæda mogu biti najbolji pokazatelj koga Hrvati smatraju najveÊim ili najznaËajnijim velikanima. AnalizirajuÊi imena glavnih trgova svih 127 hrvatskih gradova, otkrivamo kako je njih Ëak 70 nazvano po hrvatskim velikanima. A meu njima su najpopularniji dræavnici, ratnici, politiËari i predvodnici druπtvenih promjena. Prvi je hrvatski kralj Tomislav najprisutniji, po njemu je imenovano Ëak 17 glavnih trgova. Na drugome su mjestu prvi hrvatski predsjednik i utemeljitelj moderne Republike Hrvatske dr. Franjo Tuman te slavni vojskovoa i veliki hrvatski ban reformator iz doba hrvatske pripadnosti Austro-Ugarskoj Monarhiji Josip JelaËiÊ. Slijede Otac domovine, veliki ideolog hrvatske dræavnosti Ante StarËeviÊ, seljaËki voa i dræavnik iz dvadesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa Stjepan RadiÊ te slavni vojskovoa koji je zaustavio prodor turskih osvajaËa u Europu i sam poginuvπi u obrani maarskog Sigeta, Nikola ©ubiÊ Zrinski. Posljednja dva desetljeÊa mnogo trgova i ulica u hrvatskim mjestima dobio je zagrebaËki nadbiskup kardinal Alojzije Stepinac, koji se tijekom Drugoga svjetskog rata i poraÊa javno suprotstavio zlima faπizma, nacizma i komunizma te zbog vjere, domoljublja i odanosti Vatikanu postao muËenik komunistiËkog reæima, zbog Ëega ga je papa Ivan Pavao II. tijekom posjeta nacionalnom svetiπtu Majke Boæje u Mariji Bistrici 1998. proglasio blaæenim, a uskoro se oËekuje i njegovo proglaπenje svetim kako bi postao uzor cijeloj KatoliËkoj crkvi. O odnosu Hrvata prema svojim velikanima mnogo moæemo iπËitati i razgledajuÊi znamenitosti Zagreba, posebice njegove trgove i spomenike na njima. Srediπnji trg hrvatske metropole nosi ime bana JelaËiÊa, simbola stvaranja samostalne hrvatske dræave i otpora prema tuinskim posezanjima u 19. stoljeÊu. Spomenik JelaËiÊa na konju s isukanom sabljom, austrijskog kipara Antona Dominika Fernkorna, jedan od simbola tog trga, otkriven 16. prosinca 1866. i prva je velika javna skulptura u Zagrebu. Spomenik je ondje bio punih osamdeset godina, sve do ruπenja 1947. zbog ideoloπkih razloga, koje je naredila nova poratna komunistiËka vlast. Nakon 43 godine ponovno je sveËano vraÊen, nakon prvih slobodnih viπestranaËkih izbora i uspostave hrvatske demokratske vlasti, 16. listopada 1990., na njegov roendan. Drugi konjaniËki spomenik koji dominira srediπtem

Zagreba svakako je spomenik kralju Tomislavu, na istoimenom trgu, koji se proteæe izmeu zagrebaËkoga Glavnog kolodvora i velebnoga UmjetniËkog paviljona. Spomenik kralju Tomislavu djelo je kipara Roberta Frangeπa MihanoviÊa. Ideja o podizanju spomenika nastala je 1925. u Ëast tisuÊugodiπnjice osnivanja hrvatske dræave. Spomenik je dovrπen 1934. godine, ali zbog dugotrajnih polemika oko mjesta i naËina postavljanja, na danaπnju lokaciju 1942. postavljen je samo postament s reljeﬁma, a spomenik Tomislava na konju tek 1947. godine. Izmeu Trga bana JelaËiÊa i Trga kralja Tomislava, zacijelo u najljepπem dijelu grada, na istoËnom dijelu zelene Lenucijeve potkove (nazvane prema zagrebaËkom gradskom inæenjeru Milanu Lenuciju, koji je u doba historicizma, posljednjih desetljeÊa 19. st., urbanistiËki uokvirio srediπnji dio Zagreba lancem trgova i parkova), nalaze se joπ dva povezana zagrebaËka trga, koja nose imena po najzasluænijim hrvatskim velikanima. To su Trg Josipa Jurja Strossmayera i Nikole ©ubiÊa Zrinskog, poznat kao Zrinjevac. Strossmayer, akovaËki biskup, smatra se jednim od najveÊih mecena hrvatske povijesti, zasluæan je za utemeljenje modernog SveuËiliπta u Zagrebu, Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti, nacionalne galerije i niza drugih vaænih institucija… Iza palaËe Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti, koja krasi trg svoga utemeljitelja, nalazi se i njegov spomenik, djelo najveÊega hrvatskog kipara Ivana MeπtroviÊa iz 1926. godine. No, na juænom dijelu Zrinjevca, nasuprot i pokraj palaËe Hrvatske akademije znanosti i umjetnosti, joπ u 19. stoljeÊu postavljene su biste drugih zasluænih Hrvata, inaËe rad hrvatskog kipara Ivana RendiÊa. Zanimljiv je njihov izbor: Ivan pl. KukuljeviÊ Sakcinski (povjesniËar i politiËar, koji se 1843. prvi usudio odræati govor u Hrvatskome saboru na hrvatskom jeziku, umjesto na uobiËajenom latinskom), Nikola JuriπiÊ (slavni branitelj Kisega pred turskom najezdom iz 16. stoljeÊa), slikari Juraj Julio Clovio KloviÊ i Andrija MeduliÊ Schiavione, knez Krsto Frankopan (predvodnik hrvatske borbe protiv beËkog apsolutizma), Ivan MaæuraniÊ (hrvatski knjiæevnik i veliki reformator na poziciji hrvatskog bana), Ruer BoπkoviÊ (slavni znanstvenik) i August ©enoa (tvorac moderne hrvatske knjiæevnosti i jedan od najpopularnijih hrvatskih pisaca). Pokraj trga prvoga hrvatskog kralja Tomislava, omeen Glavnim kolodvorom i hotelom Esplanade, nalazi se trg Oca domovine Ante StarËeviÊa, a u niπi StarËeviÊeva doma postavljen je 1999. i spomenik njemu u Ëast. Na zapadnom dijelu prekrasne Lenucijeve zelene potkove u središtu Zagreba nalaze se joπ tri znamenita trga, koja nose imena hrvatskih velikana − braÊe

MaæuraniÊa, oca hrvatske knjiæevnosti Marka MaruliÊa i marπala Tita, partizanskog voe, komunistiËkog lidera i doæivotnog predsjednika socijalistiËke Jugoslavije, kojega mnogo ZagrepËana smatra spornim zbog zloËina poËinjenih tijekom njegove nedemokratske vladavine od 1945. do 1980. godine. MaruliÊ na svome trgu od 1999. ima i spomenik, djelo kipara Vlade Radasa. Na juænom dijelu MaruliÊeva trga, na πetaliπtu izmeu BotaniËkog vrta i bivπe Nacionalne i sveuËiliπne biblioteke, ispred zacijelo jedne od najljepπih zagrebaËkih graevina, od 1935. nalazi se spomenik poznatom hrvatskom arheologu don Frani BuliÊu, autora Frane KrπiniÊa. Unutar te zelene potkove, u središtu grada, nalazi se joπ Trg Petra PreradoviÊa (poznat kao Cvjetni trg), gdje je 1954. postavljen spomenik tom poznatom pjesniku. U srediπtu grada, na kriæanju Tesline, Masarykove i PreradoviÊeve ulice, nalazi se joπ i spomenik velikom hrvatskom izumitelju Nikoli Tesli, rad Ivana MeπtroviÊa. U Gajevoj ulici, koja povezuje Trg bana JelaËiÊa i Teslinu, 2008. postavljeno je poprsje hrvatskog prosvjetitelja Ljudevita Gaja, rad makedonskog kipara Tome Seraﬁmovskog. Na istoËnom dijelu JelaËiÊeva trga, odnosno na kriæanju JuriπiÊeve i Petrinjske ulice, podignut je spomenik velikom hrvatskom politiËaru Stjepanu RadiÊu. A nedaleko od spomenika Petru PreradoviÊu, u Varπavskoj ulici, 1991. spomenik je dobio i jedan od najveÊih hrvatskih pjesnika Tin UjeviÊ. U jednoj od najæivopisnijih zagrebaËkih ulica, − TkalËiÊevoj, nalazi se spomenik poznatoj hrvatskoj spisateljici i prvoj hrvatskoj novinarki Mariji JuriÊ Zagorki. Meu top 10 javnih spomenika u Zagrebu, prema izboru TuristiËke zajednice Grada Zagreba, osim veÊ spomenutih spomenika JelaËiÊu, Tomislavu, PreradoviÊu, Strossmayeru, nalaze se joπ dva spomenika zasluænim Hrvatima, postavljena u srediπtu grada. To su spomenici poznatim hrvatskim knjiæevnicima Antunu Gustavu Matoπu, djelo Ivana KoæariÊa iz 1978. na Strossmayerovu πetaliπtu na zagrebaËkome Gornjem gradu, i Augustu ©enoi, djelo Marije UjeviÊ iz 1987., na kriæanju PalmotiÊeve i Vlaπke ulice. Mnogo je velikana na koje su Hrvati osobito ponosni. Meu najveÊim umovima nezaobilazan je i Marin GetaldiÊ, prvi hrvatski matematiËar i fiziËar, prijatelj slavnoga Galileja, a Ëesto se spominju i dvojica hrvatskih nobelovaca, kemiËari Vladimir Prelog i Lavoslav RuæiËka. Jedan od najpopularnijih hrvatskih slikara jest Vlaho Bukovac, zaËetnik hrvatske moderne i ujedno jedan od najplodnijih hrvatskih slikara. Matija Gubec zacijelo je jedan od najspominjanijih narodnih junaka. Bio je legendarni seljaËki voa, koji se usprotivio tomu što su plemiÊi izrabljivali puk te poveo slavnu SeljaËku bunu CROATIA AIRLINES

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1573. godine. Uza spomenute knjiæevnike i spisatelje, nezaobilazni su i Ivan GunduliÊ, autor najljepπih stihova hrvatske knjiæevnosti O lijepa, o draga, o slatka slobodo…, Antun Gustav Matoπ, srediπnja liËnost hrvatske knjiæevne moderne, Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, poznata i kao hrvatski Andersen, nobelovac Ivo AndriÊ i nesueni nobelovac, jedan od najboljih europskih pisaca 20. stoljeÊa, Miroslav Krleæa. Autor najpopularnije hrvatske opere Nikola ©ubiÊ Zrinski jest skladatelj Ivan pl. Zajc, a autor najizvoenije hrvatske opere Ero s onoga svijeta − Jakov Gotovac. Jedna je od najveÊih svjetskih opernih umjetnica svih vremena Milka Trnina, a prva je hrvatska skladateljica Dora PejaËeviÊ. Najslavniji ﬁlmski redatelji su: Oktavijan MiletiÊ, Branko Bauer, Kreπo Golik, Ante Babaja i Krsto PapiÊ. Glumci koji joπ i danas meu Hrvatima izazivaju najviπe emocija jesu Boris Dvornik i Fabijan ©ovagoviÊ, a pjevaË koji je prodao hit Morgen u milijun ploËa legendarni je Ivo RobiÊ, autor hita Strangers in the night, kojom je 1966. Frank Sinatra postigao golem uspjeh. Sportaπi na koje su Hrvati najponosniji svakako su legendarni koπarkaπi Draæen PetroviÊ i Kreπimir ΔosiÊ. Hrvati teπko postiæu konsenzus oko toga tko je najveÊi hrvatski velikan, odnosno tko je od njih zasluæio najveÊe poπtovanje nacije. Jesu li to Tesla ili MaruliÊ, kralj Tomislav ili ban JelaËiÊ, BoπkoviÊ ili Zrinski? Britanci su to rijeπili demokratskim putem, kad je BBC 2002. pokrenuo nacionalni izbor 100 najveÊih Britanaca u povijesti, u kojemu je pobijedio dræavnik Winston Churchill. Stoga, Hrvatska radio-televizija (HRT) planira sliËan projekt kojim Êe nastojati domaÊu ali i inozemnu javnost upoznati s hrvatskim doprinosima civilizaciji u kojoj æivimo.

here is no nation or country which does not preserve and commemorate at least some people from its past - those, who in their lifetime, through their deeds, made a name for themselves and their country. We call these people the greats; in their honour, we name squares and streets after them; we create works of art, build institutions and compose operas in their name. They are our pride and joy, role model for good behaviour. Some of their works have transcended national boundaries and humanity is indebted to them; thus, we are expected to know them; some have remained in the shadow of historical events totally unjustly... Which great first comes to mind when it comes to Croatia? According to one study, Nikola Tesla is most often associated with Croatia as he is one of the greatest scientists of the 20th century; he brought us alternating current (AC), and was born in GospiÊ in Lika, and received his education in GospiÊ and Karlovac. Another great usually associated with Croatia is the Dubrovnik native, Ruer BoπkoviÊ, the forerunner of Einstein, and undoubtedly one of the most versatile Croats of all time. He was a mathematician, astronomer, geodesist, physicist, theologian, philosopher, diplomat, archaeologist, poet, and, above all, a priest. He worked on developing 18th century European science acting mainly out of Rome, Milan and Paris, as well as out of other European capitals of the time, from London and Vienna to Istanbul and St. Petersburg, leaving behind important works, the influence of which was felt until the early 20th century. While Tesla’s inventions in the field of electrical engineering and discoveries in physics left a strong mark, not only on world science, but their use was also reflected in the improvement of quality of life in general, which earned him the title: the man who invented the 20th century. BoπkoviÊ was not remembered for any great inventions, but as a brilliant visionary, precursor and anticipator of later discoveries and theories, he was a pioneer in modern physics. The power of intuition, which BoπkoviÊ used a century and a half before Einstein to come

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up with the idea of the relativity of space and time, the constant speed of light and the possibility of four-dimensional space, was nothing short of incredible. With this in mind, Friedrich Nietzsche’s statement that BoπkoviÊ’s theory on the structure of matter, along with Copernicus’ idea of the heliocentric system, which has been represented as the greatest triumph over the senses that has been achieved so far, does not seem exaggerated to us. Along with these two Croatian-born geniuses, long before them, and even before the Croats settled in areas along the Adriatic Sea in the 7th century, two of the world’s greats were born in present-day Croatia. They were the Roman emperor Diocletian and St. Jerome. It is a wellknown fact that Diocletian was born in Salona, today’s Solin near Split. He was an important statesman of the then Roman Empire, which he modernized, reformed, strengthened and territorially reorganized. He was apparently in love with his homeland and considered it an ideal place to live since he decided to raise a magniﬁcent palace there, where he awaited old age and subsequent death after his abdication. From this palace, whose key elements have been preserved to our day, and which is still under the protection of UNESCO, developed

present-day Split, which was created and developed by the Croats by inheriting a rich ancient heritage, gradually merging with the Roman culture and the local residents. Without that heritage, Croatia would now certainly look quite different. Roman rule in present-day Croatia, like the Greeks, certainly allowed the key cultural preconditions for the integration of these regions into the Western European civilization circle and created long-term foundations for the development of classic characteristics of material culture, especially in the ﬁeld of urban planning, architecture and art. However, despite all the achievements and a rich legacy, Diocletian, as a persecutor of Christians, does not enjoy any great respect among the Catholic Croats, but we must admit that his work indisputably inﬂuenced the history of Croatia, as well as the present. Unlike Diocletian who many Croats do not consider their own, there is exceptional consensus and respect from the Croatian people for St Jerome, even though he was born centuries before the Croats’ arrival to the Adriatic. St. Jerome is apparently closer to the Christian people because, in the Christian world, he is a respected and honoured saint who translated the Bible into Latin, and who was known

for his southern temperament and regularly prided himself on his Dalmatian origin. Even the Pope associated him with Croats, as heirs of his homeland, and some were supposedly convinced that Croatian was his language; he was even attributed with the authorship of the old Croatian alphabet − the Glagolitic alphabet. Because of this centuries-old connection with St. Jerome as the saint in this region, the historical Fraternity Saint Jerome for the Help of Croatian Refugees, which was founded back in 1453 in Rome, bore his name. Pope Nicholas V granted the fraternity the authority to manage the decrepit Church of Saint Marina and its precincts on the left bank of the Tiber, next to Emperor Augustus’ mausoleum. On the land, they built a refuge and a hospital; the church was renovated and dedicated to Saint Jerome, the greatest teacher in the exposition of the Sacred Scriptures. In 1566, Pope Pius V elevated the Church of St. Jerome to the status of a Cardinal title. In 1570, Felice Peretti of Montalto, a descendant of Croatian immigrants, became the third person to hold the title of cardinal, which he maintained until 1585 when he was elected Pope, taking the name of Pope Sixtus V. (1585-1590). That is how we got another Croatian great who beCROATIA AIRLINES

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came so, not by place of birth, but by origin and attitude towards his fellow countrymen! In addition to helping the Croatian community in Rome during his pontificate, he also supported the reconstruction and renovation of the Church of St. Jerome. Pope Leo XIII elevated the work of the charitable church organization, its institutions and the Church of St. Jerome to an even higher level, and in 1901, declared it to be the now well-known Pontifical Croatian College of St. Jerome. St. Marin from Rab, the founder of San Marino, the first republic in Europe, is associated with belonging to the Croatian greats in a similar way to that of St. Jerome. The fact that this stone mason left his native island and fled to Rimini with a friend precisely because of Emperor Diocletian’s persecution of Christians, shows how the fates of great people sometimes intertwine. Although he was born before the arrival of Croats to the Adriatic islands, the world associates this saint, whose feast is a national holiday in the tiny state of San Marino, with Croatia. San Marino is well aware of his homeland and that is witnessed by the fact that San Marino and Rab signed the Charter of Twinning back in 1968, while in 2012, Croatia and San Marino published a joint postage stamp dedicated to the tradition of the two cities and to St. Marin, who connects them. In relation to the population and size of the country, Croats and Croatia have given Europe and the world a large number of scientists, cultural workers, educators, inventors, warriors, holy men, talented athletes and creators in other areas of life who left quite significant marks in the development of the European continent, the contribution to world civilization and the creation, development and preservation of Croatia. Many have, unfortunately, been forgotten or their contribution is not emphasized enough and their work is not praised enough. One of them is Anthony (Antun) Lucas LuËiÊ. This Split native was the first person to discover 146

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Croatian architects and artists for much of their beauty: Lucijan Vranjanin built the fortress of Rocca Costanza in Pesaro, and the palace of Duke Federico Montefeletro in Urbino, which is considered to be the masterpiece of world Renaissance architecture. Juraj Julije KloviÊ was one of the greatest European masters of miniature painting, and it was his student El Greco who elevated him to the status of Renaissance great, next to Michelangelo, Rafael, and Titian. Andrija MeduliÊ was Titian and Tintoretto’s role model, and the most prominent representative of Italian Mannerism. The splendor of old Austria and Hungary is unimaginable without the exceptional contribution of Croatian nobles, archbishops, diplomats, soldiers, poets and educators. The Croatian national revival and the years preceding it produced so many excellent names in all ﬁelds of activity and motivated many greats, originating from other nations and countries to declare themselves Croats, giving an immeasurable contribution to the creation of a modern nation. In the 20th century, Croatian writers, artists and scientists closely followed contemporary global trends, and many of them made their own creative and innovative contributions, which were enthusiastically accepted by the world. Artists such as Ivan MeπtroviÊ, Frane KrπiniÊ, Antun AugustinËiÊ, Vojin BakiÊ and Duπan Dæamonja are inevitable names of world sculpture. Many Croatian greats, who in their lifetime left their mark on Croatia and the world, are names worthy of ﬁlm, on which novels can be written and movies made ... On the other hand, we did not know that many of them are of Croatian origin. One such person

Nikola Tesla

Romeo Ibrišević

Ruđer Bošković

oil in American Texas and to begin its mass exploitation! He is listed among the 200 most deserving Americans of all time in America, while most people from his own country have never even heard of him. Mario PuratiÊ’s invention of the power block caused a revolution in American fishing and earned him a place on the Canadian five dollar note. In Argentina, Ivan VuËetiÊ discovered dactyloscopy and made a significant impact on crime detection via fingerprinting. The great Croatian scientist, Andrija MohoroviËiÊ, discovered the Earth’s core layers and the causes of earthquakes; Milutin MilankoviÊ uncovered the secret of the ice ages; Ivan Lupis VukiÊ invented the torpedo; Dragutin GorjanoviÊ Kramberger discovered the remains of the Neanderthal man in Krapina; the versatile Slavoljub Penkala invented the mechanical pen; David Shwartz the Zeppelin; Benedikt KotruljeviÊ double-entry bookkeeping... Ivan Ratkaj was one of the first European missionaries among the Native Americans, and his fellow missionary, Ferdinand KonπÊak, was the first to prove that California was not an island, as previously thought, but a peninsula. Marco Polo, who according to tradition was born on the island of KorËula, brought China closer to Europe, and the Burgenland Croat, Filip Vezdin, was the pioneer of European Indology. The Seljan Brothers from Karlovac, world travelers and explorers, are considered to be the co-founders of modern Ethiopia. Many have probably heard of Faust VranËiÊ, the inventor of the parachute and the suspension bridge, but little is known about his namesake Antun, a Croatian and Hungarian nobleman, diplomat, writer, archbishop and cardinal, who is considered to be one of the greatest Croatian politicians in European politics ever. Dubrovnik Jesuits, Rajmund KuniÊ and Bernard Zamagna, translated Homer’s demanding works, and Herman Dalmatin translated the Quran into Latin. The archbishop of Split and later heretic, Marco Antonio de Dominis, in his lifetime made it to the position of Dean of Windsor and the Master of Savoy in England, which was an exceptional royal honour bestowed to a stranger;,he died in the Castle of the Holy Angel in Rome. Speaking of England, not many people know that the English King, Henry VIII, loved the works of the father of Croatian literature, Marko MaruliÊ, which were the European bestsellers at that time. Croatian Latinism, especially in the age of Humanism, has a true European significance and the Europe of that time would be unthinkable without the contribution of Croats, like Janus Pannoius and Ivan Vitez of Sredna to name a few. Many Italian cities, which are annually visited by millions of tourists, should thank the

is the famous Pablo Picasso’s muse and one of the most important women of the European avant-garde movement, photographer Dora Maar, who was of Croatian origin. The names of streets and squares in Croatian cities may be the best indicators of which people are considered to be the greatest and most important greats by the Croats. In analyzing the names of all the main squares in all 127 Croatian cities, we find that as many as 70 are named after the Croatian greats. Among them are the most popular statesmen, warriors, politicians and leaders of social change. The first Croatian king, Tomislav, was the most popular; as many as 17 main squares have been named after him. Tied for second place are: the first Croatian president and founder of the modern Republic of Croatia, Dr. Franjo Tuman and Josip JelaËiÊ, the famous military leader and great Croatian Ban − reformer from the period when Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. They are followed by the Father of the Homeland, Ante StarËeviÊ, a major ideologue of Croatian statehood, Stjepan RadiÊ, a peasant leader and statesman from the 1920s, and Nikola ©ubiÊ Zrinski, the famous army commander who stopped the Turkish conquerors in Europe and died while defending the Hungarian Szigetvár. In the last two decades, many squares and streets in Croatian towns have been named after the Archbishop of Zagreb, Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac, who during and after World War II, publicly opposed the evils of fascism, nazism and communism, and became a martyr of the communist regime while keeping his faith, patriotism and loyalty to the Vatican. For this reason, during his visit to the national shrine of Our Lady in Marija Bistrica in 1998, Pope John Paul II beatified him, and his canonization is expected in the near future which will make him a role model for the entire Catholic Church. We can learn a lot about the relationship between Croats and their greats by seeing the attractions of Zagreb, especially its squares and the monuments of them. The main square of the Croatian capital is named after Ban JelaËiÊ; the square is a symbol of independence for the Croatian state and resistance to foreign encroachment in the 19th century. The statue of JelaËiÊ on a horse with his sabre drawn, by Austrian sculptor, Anton Dominik Fernkorn, is one of the symbols of this square, which was unveiled on 16 December, 1866, and was the first large public sculpture in Zagreb. The statue had been there for eighty years, until 1947, when it was removed by the new post-war communist authorities for ideological reasons. After 43 years, it was again ceremonially returned, after the first free multi-party elections and the establishment of the Croatian democratic government, on his birthday, the 16th of October, 1990. Another equestrian statue that dominates the centre of Zagreb is certainly the King Tomislav statue, located in the square bearing the same name, which stretches between the Zagreb Main Station and the magnificent Art Pavilion. The King Tomislav statue is the work of sculptor Robert Frangeπ MihanoviÊ. The idea of erecting this statue came about in 1925, on the one thousandth anniversary of the founding of the Croatian state. The statue was completed in 1934, but due to such long controversy over the location and the manner of placement, only the pedestal with reliefs was placed at its current location in 1942, and the statue of Tomislav on horseback was not placed until 1947. There are two Zagreb squares, adjacent to each other, and named after the most deserving Croatian greats between the Ban JelaËiÊ Square and the King Tomislav Square, in what is certainly the most beautiful part of the city, on the easternmost part of the green Lenuci Horseshoe, (named after Zagreb’s engineer, Milan Lenuci, who in the age of historicism, during the last few decades of the 19th century, gave the central part of Zagreb an urbanistic frame through a chain CROATIA AIRLINES

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Josip JelaËiÊ

of squares and parks),. These are Josip Juraj Strossmayer Square and Nikola ©ubiÊ Zrinski Square, known as Zrinjevac. Strossmayer, the bishop of –akovo, is considered to be one of the greatest patrons of Croatian history and is credited with founding the modern University of Zagreb, the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts, the Modern Gallery, and many other important institutions... His monument, the 1926 work of the greatest Croatian sculptor, Ivan MeπtroviÊ, is located behind the palace of the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences, which adorns the square of its founder. However, back in the 19th century, the busts of other deserving Croats, which are the work of Croatian sculptor Ivan RendiÊ, were placed in the southern part of Zrinjevac, across and beside the palace of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts. Their choice was interesting: Ivan KukuljeviÊ Sakcinski (historian and politician, who in 1843, ﬁrst dared to make a speech in the Croatian language in the Croatian Parliament, instead of the usual Latin), Nikola JuriπiÊ (the famous defender of Köszeg from the Turkish invasion in the 16th century), the painters, Juraj Julio Clovio KloviÊ and Andrija MeduliÊ Schiavione, Duke Krsto Frankopan (a Croatian leader in the ﬁght against Viennese absolutism), Ivan MaæuraniÊ (a Croatian writer and a great reformer, serving as a Croatian ban), Ruer BoπkoviÊ (a famous scientist), and August ©enoa (creator of modern Croatian literature and one of the most popular Croatian writers). Next to the square 148

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of the first Croatian king Tomislav, bounded by the Main Station and the Esplanade Hotel (Zagreb), there is a square named after the Father of the Homeland, Ante StarËeviÊ, and in 1999, a monument was placed in his honour in a niche at the StarËeviÊ Home. On the western part of the beautiful green Lenuci Horseshoe, there are three more famous squares in Zagreb’s city centre which bear the names of Croatian greats: the MaæuraniÊ brothers, the Father of Croatian literature, Marko MaruliÊ, and Marshal Tito, the partisan and communist leader and lifetime President of the Socialist Yugoslavia, who many people consider controversial due to the crimes committed during his undemocratic rule from 1945 to 1980. Since 1999, MaruliÊ has also gotten a monument in his square, which was made by sculptor Vlado Radas. Since 1935, in the southern part of MaruliÊ Square, on the promenade between the Botanical Gardens and the former National and University Library, in front of certainly one of the most beautiful buildings in Zagreb, there has been a monument of famous Croatian archaeologist, Don Frane BuliÊ, by sculptor Frane KrπiniÊ. Within this green horseshoe, in the city centre, there is also Petar PreradoviÊ Square (known as Flower Square), where in 1954, a monument of the famous poet was placed. In the city centre, at the intersection of Teslina, Masarykova and PreradoviÊeva Street, there is also a monument of the great Croatian inventor Nikola Tesla, by Ivan MeπtroviÊ. In 2008, in Gajeva Street, which connects Ban JelaËiÊ Square and Teslina Street, there is a bust of Croatian educator, Ljudevit Gaj, by Macedonian sculptor, Tome Serafimovski. In the eastern part of JelaËiÊ Square, i.e., at the intersection of JuriπiÊeva and Petrinjska Street, there is a monument of the great Croatian politician Stjepan RadiÊ. in 1991, not far from the monument of Peter PreradoviÊ, in Varπavska Street, one of the greatest Croatian poets, Tin UjeviÊ, received his monument. In one of the most picturesque streets in Zagreb, TkalËiÊeva Street, there is a monument of famous Croatian writer and the first Croatian female journalist, Marija JuriÊ Zagorka. Among the top 10 public monuments in Zagreb, according to the Zagreb Tourist Board, in addition to the already mentioned monuments of JelaËiÊ, Tomislav, PreradoviÊ, Strossmayer, there are two other monuments of deserving Croats, placed in the city’s centre. These are monuments of famous Croatian writers, Antun Gustav Matoπ, by sculptor Ivan KoæariÊ (1978) on the Strossmayer Promenade in Zagreb’s Upper Town, and August ©enoa, by Marija UjeviÊ

(1987), at the intersection of PalmotiÊeva and Vlaπka Street. There are many greats that Croats are particularly proud of. Another unavoidable person among the greatest minds is Marin GetaldiÊ, the first Croatian mathematician and physicist, friend of the famous Galileo; the names of two Croatian Nobel laureates, chemists, Vladimir Prelog and Lavoslav RuæiËka, are also often mentioned. One of the most popular Croatian painters is Vlaho Bukovac, the founder of Croatian modern painting and at the same one of the most prolific Croatian painters. Matija Gubec is certainly one of the most frequently mentioned folk heroes. He was a legendary peasant leader, who opposed the exploitation of the common people by the nobles and led the famous Peasants’ Revolt in 1573. Along with the aforementioned writers, one must also mention Ivan GunduliÊ, author of the most beautiful verses of Croatian literature: Oh beautiful, oh dear, oh sweet liberty..., Antun Gustav Matoπ, the central figure of Croatian literary modernism, Ivana BrliÊ MaæuraniÊ, known as the Croatian Andersen, the Nobel Prize laureate, Ivo AndriÊ, and a would-be Nobel laureate, one of the best European writers of the 20th century, Miroslav Krleæa. The author of the most popular Croatian opera Nikola ©ubiÊ Zrinski is the composer Ivan Zajc, and the author of the most performed Croatian opera, Ero the Joker, is Jakov Gotovac. One of the world’s greatest opera artists of all time is Milka Trnina, and the first Croatian composer is Dora PejaËeviÊ. The most famous film directors are: Oktavijan MiletiÊ, Branko Bauer, Kreπo Golik, Ante Babaja and Krsto PapiÊ. The actors who still provoke the strongest emotions among Croats are: Boris Dvornik and Fabijan ©ovagoviÊ, and the singer who sold a million records of the hit Morgen, the legendary Ivo RobiÊ, author of the hit Strangers in the Night, with which, in 1966, Frank Sinatra achieved tremendous success. Athletes that Croats are the most proud of are certainly the legendary basketball players, Draæen PetroviÊ and Kreπimir Δosic. Croats have trouble agreeing on who the biggest Croatian great is, and who among them deserves the utmost respect of the nation. Is it Tesla or MaruliÊ, King Tomislav or Ban JelaËiÊ, BoπkoviÊ or Zrinski? The British came up with a democratic way, when the BBC launched the 2002 national selection of the 100 greatest Britons in history, in which the statesman, Winston Churchill, won. Therefore, Croatian Radio Television (HRT) is planing a similar project through which it will attempt to familiarize the domestic and foreign public with Croatia’s contributions to the civilization in which we live.

www.panorama-zagreb.com www.hupzagreb.com

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OBLJETNICE ANNIVERSARIES Piπe/By Dobrila Zvonarek

poËetku 17. stoljeÊa, dok je Englez Francis Godwin pisao jedan od prvih znanstvenofantastiËnih romana novoga vijeka »ovjek na Mjesecu, πibenski izumitelj, polihistor, diplomat i jezikoslovac Faust VranËiÊ nastojao je pokazati da svladavanje nebeskih visina nije tek puka utopija. Svoj nacrt padobrana, nazvan LeteÊi Ëovjek − Homo volans, opisao je Vrančić u djelu Machinae novae (Novi strojevi, Venecija, 1615./1616.), zajedno s drugih 55 izuma i tehniËkih konstrukcija. Bakrorezi iz knjige, koji detaljno prikazuju opisane izume, ubrzo su otisnuti Ëak i u Kini, a djelo koje je prvotno objavio o vlastitom troπku proslavilo ga je diljem svijeta. Izvornik toga djela (1615./1616.) pohranjen je u Nacionalnoj i sveuËiliπnoj knjiænici u Zagrebu i predmet je æivog zanimanja mnogih posjetitelja koji posjeÊuju njezinu Zbirku rukopisa i starih knjiga. U godini u kojoj se obiljeæava 400. obljetnica Machinae novae, Knjiænica je − u suradnji s TehniËkim muzejom Nikola Tesla u Zagrebu, Gradskom knjiænicom Jurja ©iægoriÊa iz ©ibenika i Memorijalnim centrom Fausta VranËiÊa s otoka PrviÊa − odluËila prirediti veliku izloæbu posveÊenu VranËiÊu i njegovu radu. Od 10. do 30. studenog 2015. u velikom predvorju Nacionalne i sveuËiliπne knjiænice posjetitelji Êe moÊi vidjeti VranËiÊeve radove iz fonda NSK, makete njegovih izuma, posluπati zanimljiva predavanja uglednih struËnjaka iz partnerskih institucija, pratiti projekcije doku-

400. OBLJETNICA ČUDESNE KNJIGE IZUMA FAUSTA VRANČIĆA

THE 400TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE MAGNIFICENT BOOK OF INVENTIONS BY FAUST VRANČIĆ

Darko Čizmek, NSK

mentarnih serija i filmova te, dakako, vidjeti i Machinae novae − tu Ëudesnu knjigu izuma, koja Êe, fiziËki i simboliËno, biti smjeπtena u srediπte sveukupnih zbivanja. Faust VranËiÊ (lat. Faustus Verantius) roen je 1551. godine u ©ibeniku. Pravo i filozofiju studirao je u Padovi, a za njegovu se humanistiËku naobrazbu osobito brinuo stric Antun VranËiÊ (1504.−1573.), ugledni znanstvenik i diplomat,

Svoj nacrt padobrana, nazvan LeteÊi Ëovjek − Homo volans, opisao je Vrančić u djelu Novi strojevi, Machinae novae. LeteÊi Ëovjek, Homo volans, bez sumnje je konstrukcija koja je najviπe proslavila VranËiÊa i Machinae novae. Izvornik toga djela (1615./1616.) pohranjen je u Nacionalnoj i sveuËiliπnoj knjiænici u Zagrebu i predmet je velikog zanimanja mnogih posjetitelja. The Flying Man − Homo volans is, undoubtedly, the invention that

Sonja Hrelja, NSK

brought Faust VranËiÊ and his Machinae Novae global fame.

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The original of this masterpiece (1615/1616) is stored at the National University Library in Zagreb, where it features as a major object of interest for numerous visitors.

Ëiji se padobran koristio platnom raspetim u pravokutni oblik. Njegovu konstrukciju opisao je sljedeÊim rijeËima: U Ëetverouglastom platnu za jedra, napetom na Ëetiri jednake motke i na Ëetiri ugla dobro privezanom uæetima, moæe se jedan Ëovjek bez ikakve opasnosti sigurno spustiti s tornja ili s drugog visokog mjesta. Pa i ako tada ne bi bilo vjetra, ipak Êe snaga padajuÊeg Ëovjeka stvoriti vjetar, koji Êe zadræavati platno da Ëovjek dolje ne tresne, nego da se polagano spusti. Ipak teæina Ëovjeka treba biti toËno usklaena s veliËinom platna. Osim padobrana, u djelu Machinae novae

Tychom Braheom, konstruktorom Jacopom de Stradom i drugima. Godine 1595. izdaje Dictionarium quinque nobilissimarum Europae linguarum, Latinae, Italicae, Germanicae, Dalmaticae et Hungaricae (Venecija), rjeËnik pet najuglednijih europskih jezika, koji je ujedno i prvi hrvatski rječnik. Od 1598., nakon nekoliko godina provedenih u ©ibeniku i Veneciji, æivi u Maarskoj, gdje dobiva naslov Ëanadskoga biskupa i obavlja duænosti kraljevoga savjetnika za poslove Maarske i Transilvanije. Godine 1605. napuπta dvor i ulazi u red sv. Pavla, tzv. barnabita, u Rimu. Ondje se upoznaje s tehniËkim crteæima Leonarda da Vincija, πto je uvelike utjecalo na stvaranje njegova najznaËajnijeg djela, Ëiju 400. obljetnicu proslavljamo ove godine. LeteÊi Ëovjek, Homo volans, bez sumnje je konstrukcija koja je najviπe proslavila VranËiÊa i Machinae novae. Poznato je da je izum veÊ prije opisao Leonardo da Vinci u monumentalnom rukopisnom djelu Atlantski kodeks, gdje je genijalni Talijan ponudio niz rjeπenja vezanih uz Ëovjekov let, pa tako i piramidalni padobran. Taj su projekt nadograivali brojni izumitelji u iduÊim stoljeÊima, meu njima i Faust VranËiÊ,

VranËiÊ opisuje i niz drugih konstrukcija koje bi mogle biti od koristi ËovjeËanstvu njegova doba. Osobito se zanimao za gradnju mostova s lukom, drvenih, kamenih i bronËanih. Predstavio je i 18 razliËitih projekata mlinova, bavio se problemima uzvodne rijeËne plovidbe, projektima rezanja, mlaÊenja i vrπenja æita, konstrukcijama sunËanih satova te satova na vatru i vodu, kao i mnogim drugim Ëudima tehnike. Machinae novae nije samo tehniËka knjiga u kojoj se opisuju i slikovno prikazuju raznovrsni izumi; ona je i zrcalo VranËiÊeve erudicije, viπejeziËne kompetencije i vizionarstva koje uvelike nadmaπuje okvire vremena u kojemu je æivio. Komentari na latinskom, talijanskom, πpanjolskom, njemaËkom i francuskom jeziku potvruju iznesene tvrdnje, kao i to što su neki od njegovih izuma oæivotvoreni tek desetljeÊima nakon njegove smrti. Faust VranËiÊ umro je u Veneciji 1617. godine. Prema vlastitoj æelji pokopan je na otoku PrviÊu, u mjestu PrviÊ Luka, u crkvi Sv. Marije. Hrvatska, koja se voli diËiti nazivom male zemlje velikih izumitelja, uz 400. obljetnicu jednoga od najznaËajnijih djela s podruËja tehnike i inovatorstva, oduæuje se njegovu

Sonja Hrelja, NSK

Ëovjek koji je savjetovao kraljeve, pregovarao o miru sa sultanom Sulejmanom VeliËanstvenim, dopisivao se s Erazmom Roterdamskim i drugim velikim umovima ondaπnje Europe. SlijedeÊi striËeve stope, Faust preuzima duænost dvorskog tajnika Rudolfa II., rimskonjemaËkog cara i hrvatsko-ugarskog kralja. U tom razdoblju, osamdesetih godina 16. stoljeÊa, poËinje se intenzivnije baviti tehnikom i prirodnim znanostima, Ëemu su pridonijeli i brojni susreti na dvoru s uglednim znanstvenicima onoga doba: s astronomom i matematiËarom Johannesom Keplerom, astronomom

tvorcu, najvaænijemu hrvatskom konstruktoru i tehniËkom piscu renesansnoga vremena, velikom izložbom.

n the early 17th century, while Francis Godwin was writing one of the first sciencefiction novels in modern history, The Man in the Moone, Faust VranËiÊ, an inventor, polymath, diplomat and linguist from ©ibenik, was trying to prove that mastering the skies was not pure utopia. He presented his idea for a parachute called, The Flying Man - Homo Volans, in his work Machinae Novae. Faust VranËiÊ presented his idea for a parachute called, The Flying Man - Homo Volans, in his work Machinae Novae (Venice, 1615/1616), along with 55 other inventions and technical constructions. The etchings from the book, featuring detailed designs of the aforementioned inventions, were quickly reproduced as far afield as China, and the work he originally published at his own expense made Faust VranËiÊ globally renowned. The original of this masterpiece (1615/1616) is stored at the National University Library in Zagreb, where it features as a major object of interest for numerous visitors of the library’s collection of manuscripts and old books. In order to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the publishing of Machinae Novae, the National University Library, in cooperation with the Zagreb Technical Museum, the Juraj ©iægoriÊ city library from ©ibenik, and

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Sonja Hrelja, NSK

the Faust VranËiÊ Memorial Centre from the Island of PrviÊ, has decided to organize a large exhibition dedicated to VranËiÊ and his work. Between the 10th and the 30th of November, 2015, the large lobby of the National University Library will feature VranËiÊ’s works from the library’s holdings and models of his inventions, while visitors will also have the opportunity to attend interesting lectures by renowned

Tehnički muzej Nikola Tesla Technical Museum Nikola Tesla

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experts from partnering institutions, and screenings of documentary films. Machinae Novae, the magnificent book of inventions itself, will also be displayed as the centrepiece of the exhibition area. Faust VranËiÊ (lat. Faustus Verantius) was born in 1551 in ©ibenik. He studied law and philosophy in Padua, and his education in human sciences was closely supervised by his uncle, Antun VranËiÊ (1504 − 1573), a renowned scientist and diplomat himself, a man who advised kings, negotiated peace with Suleiman the Magnificent, and corresponded with Erasmus of Rotterdam as well as with other great European thinkers of the time. Following in his uncle’s footsteps, Faust became the Secretary to Rudolf II, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Hungary and Croatia. In that period, during the late 16th century, he became more focused on technology and natural sciences, encouraged by numerous meetings with renowned scientists of the time, including astronomer and mathematician Johannes Kepler, astronomer Tycho Brahe, constructor Jacopo Strada and many others. In 1595, he published the Dictionarium quinque nobilissimarum Europae linguarum, Latinae, Italicae, Germanicae, Dalmaticae et Hungaricae (Venice), a dictionary of five of the most prominent languages in Europe; thus, also the first Croatian printed dictionary. From 1598 on, having spent several years in ©ibenik and Venice, he lived in Hungary, where he gained the title of Bishop of Csanád and worked as the king’s advisor for Hungarian and Transylvanian affairs. In 1605, he left the Royal Service and joined the Order of St. Paul − the so-called Barnabites, in Rome. That was where he became familiar

with Leonardo Da Vinci’s technical drawings, which greatly influenced the creation of his most significant work, for which the 400th anniversary is being celebrated this year. The Flying Man − Homo volans is, undoubtedly, the invention that brought Faust VranËiÊ and his Machinae Novae global fame. Such an invention was already described by Leonardo Da Vinci in his monumental manuscript, Codex Atlanticus, in which the brilliant Italian inventor offered an array of options regarding human flight, including a pyramid shaped parachute. His invention was subsequently elaborated on over the centuries by numerous inventors, including Faust VranËiÊ, whose parachute was a piece of linen stretched out in the shape of a rectangle. He described his design with the following words: With a rectangular piece of linen for a sail, stretched across four equal poles and well tied with ropes at each corner, one man can safely and without danger, descend from a tower or other tall place. Even if there is no wind, the energy of the falling man will create wind, which will support the linen and prevent the man from falling, enabling him to slowly descend. However, the weight of the man must be precisely matched to the size of the linen. Apart from a parachute, VranËiÊ’s work Machinae Novae features an array of other designs which he thought could be of use to the people of his time. He was particularly interested in the construction of arch bridges made out of wood, stone and bronze. He presented 18 different mill projects; he dealt with the problems of upstream river sailing, as well as projects of cutting, threshing and sowing wheat; he devised sun-clock designs, as well as water and incense clocks, and many other technological wonders. Machinae Novae is not just a technical book featuring descriptions and drawings of various inventions. It is also a mirror of VranËiÊ’s erudition, multilingualism and visionary mind, which were far ahead of the times he lived in. Comments in Latin, Italian, Spanish, German and French back up these claims, as does the fact that some of his inventions were realized decades after his death. Faust VranËiÊ died in Venice in 1617. According to his own wishes, he was laid to rest on the Island of PrviÊ, at the church of St. Mary in PrviÊ Luka. Proud of its image as a small country of great inventors, Croatia is celebrating the 400th anniversary of one of the most important works in the field of technology and invention by organizing an exhibition dedicated to its author − the most significant Croatian inventor and technological writer of the Renaissance − Faust VranËiÊ.

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USUSRET BLAGDANIMA: ADVENT U ZAGREBU LOOKING FORWARD TO THE HOLIDAYS: ADVENT IN ZAGREB Otkrijte zaπto je u vrijeme doπaπÊa u Zagrebu sve viπe turista i upoznajte njegovu idiliËnu stranu priËe s osmiπljenim tematskim programima, πto se odvijaju namnogim trgovima i ulicama u πirem srediπtu grada. Come and discover why the streets of Zagreb swarm with tourists during the Advent season. Experience its idyllic side by partaking in the themed programmes, which will take place in squares and streets all around the city.

ijekom doπaπÊa Zagreb æivi u osobitom ozraËju i jednostavno ga morate doæivjeti. U to vrijeme svake godine i sve viπe turista za odrediπte bira Zagreb, u kojem Ëeka zabava doslovno na svakom koraku. Tih dana na mnogim se trgovima i ulicama grada pjeva, pleπe, zabavlja s obitelji ili prijateljima, uæiva u tradicionalnim delicijama na otvorenome ili tematski osmiπljenim programima vraÊa u proπlost.

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Srediπnja dogaanja s prigodnim glazbenim programom poËet Êe 28. studenoga na glavnom trgu, Trgu bana Josipa JelaËiÊa, kao i u obliænjem parku Zrinjevac. Sve do poËetka sijeËnja u tome Êe se najljepπem zagrebaËkom perivoju opet plesati u ritmovima valcera i evergrina, moÊi Êe se kuπati neka od tradicionalnih jela ili pak kupiti dar iz bogate ponude proizvoda i originalnih zagrebaËkih suvenira. Na ulicama oko Trga bana Josipa JelaËiÊa

bit Êe postavljen tradicionalni Adventski sajam. Prigodne boæiÊne darove, licitare i medenjake, πarene ukrase, boæiÊni nakit i suvenire, ponudit Êe zagrebaËki obrtnici, likovni umjetnici i proizvoaËi tradicionalnih hrvatskih proizvoda. Zajednica Cenacolo na Kaptolu u boæiÊno vrijeme prireuje Æive jaslice, projekt koji na blizak i topao naËin oæivljava atmosferu Isusova roenja. NekoÊ marginalizirani mladi ljudi tako dokazuju kako se æivot moæe promijeniti nabolje i kako se u njemu moæe uspjeti. U znaku blagdana bit Êe i mnogi drugi trgovi i ulice, svaki sa svojom priËom i programima prilagoenima razliËitim ukusima. Spomenut Êemo samo zabavnoglazbeni i od proπle godine novi program Advent na Europskom trgu. Taj se program odvija u pjeπaËkoj zoni u strogom srediπtu grada, tik do glavnoga zagrebaËkoga trga, Trga bana Josipa JelaËiÊa, i uza sjediπte EU u Hrvatskoj. Uz prodaju suvenira, raznih boæiÊnih ukrasa te bogatu ugostiteljsku ponudu, na tome Êete trgu takoer moÊi uæivati u zabavnoglazbenim programima u veËernjim satima. Tu je i nadasve zanimljiv program koji se odvija pod nazivom Fuliranje kod uspinjaËe u TomiÊevoj ulici te uz prepoznatljiv dizajn i opuπtenu atmosferu predstavlja inovativan i moderan kulturno-ugostiteljski sadræaj u vrijeme adventa. Program je dobio naziv po liku gospodina Ernesta Fulira u jednom od najgledanijih filmova u povijesti hrvatske kinematografije, ljubavnoj komediji Tko pjeva zlo ne misli. U tom je filmu ulogu kavalira koji svojim gestama i ponaπanjem osvaja srca dama, ali uzrokuje razne ljubavno-obiteljske peripetije, maestralno utjelovio veliki hrvatski glumac Relja BaπiÊ, a on je i kum tom projektu. Tako, dakako, ne zavrπava priËa o doπaπÊu u Zagrebu, nego se nastavlja raznim programima namijenjenima svim naraπtajima. Oni neπto mlai pravo mjesto za zabavu pronaÊi Êe na klizaliπtu u jednome od najljepπih zagrebaËkih parkova na Trgu kralja Tomislava, tik do velebnog zdanja UmjetniËkog paviljona na Zrinjevcu. Tu su joπ i zanimljive ture veËernjih obilazaka grada, na kojima Êete upoznati stare zagrebaËke adventske obiËaje na malo drugaËiji naËin i u njima aktivno sudjelovati. Bit Êe joπ mnogo drugih zanimljivih sadræaja, koncerata klasiËne glazbe, koji Êe se odræavati na balkonima zgrada, i raznih drugih Ëarobnih programa. Na vama je samo da ih otkrijete i uæivate u svim tim dogaanjima, jer Zagreb u vrijeme adventa æivi u osobitom ozraËju.

uring Advent, Zagreb exudes a special atmosphere, an atmosphere you simply have to experience. Fun and excitement await every step of the way; there is dancing and singing in squares and streets; families and friends get together to savour traditional delicacies under the open sky; themed events and programmes revive the past and invite everybody to take a trip down memory lane. It is, therefore, not surprising that a growing number of tourists spend the Advent season in Zagreb - a destination where fun is had by all. The programme of concerts will kick off on the 28th of November on the main square of Ban Josip JelaËiÊ and in nearby, Zrinjevac Park. Up until the beginning of January, live music will play in the most beautiful park in Zagreb, inspiring many passersby to twirl to the rhythms of waltzes and evergreens. Food stands will be offering Zagreb classics and handmade crafts and original souvenirs. Traditional Christmas fair stands will welcome you around Ban Josip JelaËiÊ Square. A range of Christmas gifts, colourfully-decorated licitar biscuits and ginger bread cookies, glitzy Christmas decorations and original souvenirs will be on sale by Zagreb’s craftsmen, artists and manufacturers. Before Christmas, the Cenacolo Association will stage a living nativity scene in Kaptol to re-enact the atmosphere surrounding the birth of Christ in a warm and intimate way. Members of the association, who were all once marginalized young people, are proof that you can turn your life around for the better and be successful after all. Many other squares and streets will be specially-decorated for Christmas, each of them with a story to tell and programmes to suit various tastes. Let us mention just one of them, a new entertainment and musical programme: Advent on a European Square. Organized for the ﬁrst time last year, this programme takes place in the pedestrian zone in the very heart of the city, next to Zagreb’s main square of Ban Josip

JelaËiÊ and the Croatian EU headquarters. Besides the sale of souvenirs, various Christmas decorations and an impressive menu of food and drinks will be on offer; the square will also feature musical entertainment in the evening hours. Another old favourite is an attention-grabbing programme known as, Fooling Around by the Funicular, in TomiÊeva Street. This innovative, cultural and gastronomic event is characterized by a recognizable design and a relaxed atmosphere during the Advent season. The programme was named after the character of Mr. Ernest Fulir, featured in one of the most popular films in the history of Croatian cinematography, the romantic comedy, One Song a Day Takes Mischief Away, or He who Sings Means no Evil. In the movie, the role of the gentleman who wins the hearts of Zagreb’s ladies with his grand gestures and chivalrous conduct, but causes various amorous and family dramas in the process, was masterfully portrayed by Relja BaπiÊ, a great Croatian actor, who was also the godfather of the Fooling Around by the Funicular project. This is certainly not the end of the story of the Advent in Zagreb as there will be different programmes intended for all generations. The younger ones will have loads of fun on a skating rink in one of the most beautiful parks in Zagreb - King Tomislav Square, adjacent to the magnificent edifice of the Art Pavilion in Zrinjevac. The holiday season includes specially-designed evening tours of the city to familiarize you with the traditional Advent customs in a different and interactive way. There will be a lot more to choose from, such as concerts of classical music on balconies and many other fascinating programmes. All you need to do is discover and enjoy all these events because Zagreb, indeed, exudes a very special atmosphere during Advent. For more detailed information and programmes, please visit www.adventzagreb. com.

Detaljne informacije s programima moæete pronaÊi na internetskoj stranici www.adventzagreb.com. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Paris - Dubrovnik Paris - Split Paris - Lyon 158 CROATIA AIRLINES Nice - Dubrovnik

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PUTOVANJE VLAKOM KAO PLOVIDBA KOPNOM

TRAVELLING BY TRAIN IS LIKE SAILING ON LAND Piπe/By Vlatka Škorić

Nekoliko varijanti pruge koja bi trebala povezati zagrebaËku zraËnu luku i središte grada ucrtano je u Prostornoj i prometnoj studiji πireg podruËja grada Zagreba, tako da je pitanje vremena kad Êe se i Zagreb pridružiti veÊini europskih gradova koji imaju brzu æeljezniËku vezu sa svojom zraËnom lukom. Several proposals for a railway line which would connect Zagreb’s airport to the city centre have already been included in the studies of spatial development and trafﬁc infrastructure of Zagreb, so it is only a matter of time when Zagreb will join the majority of European cities which already have fast railway connections to their airports. 160

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ovijest æeljeznice u Hrvatskoj pisana je istodobno s povijeπÊu europskih pruga. Ove godine obiljeæava se 155. obljetnica otvaranja za promet prve pruge u Hrvatskoj, kao i joπ nekoliko znaËajnih obljetnica u vezi sa æeljeznicom. Vlak je u Hrvatskoj prvi put krenuo 24. travnja 1860. godine, kad je u promet bila puπtena dionica pruge (Nagykanisza u Maarskoj) − Kotoriba − »akovec − Macinec − (Pragersko u Sloveniji) i to samo 35 godina nakon prvoga vlaka u Engleskoj. Ta, 42 km duga pruga, izravno je spojila Budimpeπtu na magistralnu prugu BeË − Trst. Prugu na relaciji Nagykanisza − Kotoriba − »akovec − Macinec − Pragersko otvorio je vlak sa 17 vagona, koji je bio doËekan i ispraÊen uz tutnjavu muæarah, uza πampanjac, pleh glazbu i prigodni bal u »akovcu. Prvotna ideja bila je da vlak ide preko Varaædina, ali Varaædinci su se pobunili da im od fuÊkanja cugmaπine po njihovom hataru kokoπi nedu nesle ni krave dojile... Tako su Varaædinci, zbog kokoπi, izgubili primat na hrvatsku æeljezniËarsku povijest i prugu dobili dvadeset i πest godina poslije. Dvije godine zatim, 1862., vlak je stigao i u Zagreb, u sklopu otvaranja pruge (Zidani Most u Sloveniji) − Zagreb − Sisak, a zatim slijedi gradnja pruge prema Karlovcu. Prvi vlak u Karlovac stigao je 1. lipnja 1865., a druga faza æeljezniËkog prometa u Karlovcu poËela je 1873., kada je Karlovac povezan s Rijekom. A to je osobito zanimljiva priËa. RijeËka luka oduvijek je, kao i danas, bila taj mraËni predmet æelja za vladare Primorja. Maari i Austrijanci natjecali su se tko Êe prije doÊi do mora pa je Rijeka u mreæu magistralnih pruga srednje Europe umreæena 1873. godine, i to u razmaku od samo Ëetiri mjeseca, sa dvije pruge. Austrijanci su 25. lipnja 1873. doveli tzv. πenpetersku prugu od Svetog Petra (danaπnje Pivke u Sloveniji) do Rijeke, koja je tako Rijeku spojila s BeËom, a 23. listopada 1873. Maari su, tzv. karlovaËkorijeËkom æeljeznicom izmeu Karlovca i Rijeke, spojili Rijeku s Budimpeπtom. Tako su Maari zakasnili 4 mjeseca… Bila je to jedna od najteæih brdskih pruga u Europi, a koliko je bila zahtjevna gradnja pruge Karlovac ∑ Rijeka govori podatak da je trajala Ëetiri godine, a na trasi je radilo i do 23.000 radnika. Od 1871. pri razbijanju stijena koriπten je i dinamit, koji je Alfred Nobel izumio 1867. godine. A neki je Ëitatelj u vrijeme gradnje pruge javio novinama: Kod kopanja temelja za mostove, ...nadodjoπe do zlatne rude. »ujem da su mjernici dali u BeËu komad takove rude razcvrsti i izpitati, i da Êe biti bogata zlatom; i u mene ima komadiËak ote rude kao oriπak... PriËa o rudniku zlata ipak se nije pokazala toËnom, ali je zato zlatni rudnik bila pruga

koja je u Rijeku doπla s beËke strane, osobito za razvoj turizma, jer vlakovima su u prelijepu Opatiju poËeli dolaziti europski aristokrati, uËinivπi je mondenim ljetovaliπtem. Tragovi te priËe danas joπ postoje u hotelima Kvarner i Imperijal, ali i na kolodvoru Opatija-Matulji, koji ima saËuvanu kraljevsku Ëekaonicu. Friedrich Julius Schüler, direktor tadaπnjeg Druπtva juænih æeljeznica, osim prvih opatijskih i lovranskih hotela dao je sagraditi i vrlo poznatu πetnicu lungo mare od Voloskoga do Lovrana. I gradnja pruge od DivaËe u Sloveniji do Pule, s dodatkom dionice od Kanfanara do Rovinja, koja je puπtena u promet 20. rujna 1876., omoguÊila je zaËetak turizma u Istri, nakon πto je 1893. poduzetnik i industrijalac Paul Kupelwieser kupio otoËje Brijune. Poπto je isuπio moËvare, poπumio terene i eliminirao malariju, Brijuni su postali cijenjeno odrediπte za odmor najuglednijih austrougarskih liËnosti, a danas su ekskluzivno turistiËko odredište. Ove godine navrπava se i 90 godina otkako je u promet puπtena cijela dionica tzv. liËke pruge koja spaja Zagreb sa Splitom i ©ibenikom. Graena je u fazama pa je 1877. sagraena dionica SiveriÊ ∑ Split s odvojkom PerkoviÊ ∑ ©ibenik, za potrebe dovoza ugljena iz siveriËkih rudnika ugljena u splitsku i πibensku luku. A u gradnji zadnje faze tzv. liËke pruge, koja je deﬁnitivno povezana 1925. godine, golemu je i zanimljivu ulogu imao zagrebaËki inæenjer Nikola Turkalj, jedan od malobrojnih Hrvata koji je kao struËnjak bio ukljuËen u gradnju tzv. liËke pruge. Kao veliki poπtovatelj prirode, tijekom gradnje liËke pruge 1913. godine otkrio je CerovaËke špilje, osigurao ulaz u njih i pokrenuo njihovu struËnu valorizaciju. Danas se u fantastiËne CeroveËke špilje moæe stiÊi i vlakom, jer povremeno se organiziraju izletniËki vlakovi do ulaza u špilju. Kamo je god dolazila, æeljeznica je donosila prosperitet u svim tehniËkim, druπtvenim i

Dragutin StaniËiÊ

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humanistiËkim oblicima ljudskoga djelovanja, a Ëesto je bila, i ostala, knjiæevnim, slikarskim ili kazaliπnim motivom. ÆeljezniËari su uvijek bili Ëvrsto vezani uza svoj sustav, ali imali su i znaËajan utjecaj na razvoj ukupne zajednice, govoreÊi danaπnjom terminologijom: oduvijek su bili druπtveno odgovorni. Danas u Hrvatskoj imamo 2604 kilometra pruga, 109 tunela, 596 mostova, 597 sluæbenih mjesta, meu kojima su i kolodvori koji su najËeπÊe prva mjesta susreta turista s gradom. U njihovu obnovu danas se mnogo ulaæe. Hrvatska kao mediteranska zemlja, kao malo zemalja u svijetu, ima niz æeljezniËkih kolodvora uz more. Nigdje kao u Puli, Rijeci, Zadru, ©ibeniku, Splitu i PloËama kolosijeci nisu tako blizu moru. I nigdje nisu bliæe istini da je putovanje vlakom kao plovidba kopnom. Ovo je samo dio ukupnog paËvorka …koji se naziva æeljezniËka tradicija u Hrvatskoj. A tradicija duga 155 godina ide dalje, ali to je veÊ neka druga priËa…

he history of Croatian railways coincides with the history of European rail travel. This year, we celebrate the 155th anniversary of the first railway opening in Croatia as well as several other railway-related anniversaries. On the 24th of April, 1860, the first Croatian train took off from its station and began the first railway journey within Croatia. This happened after the Nagykaniza (in Hungary) ∑ Kotoriba ∑»akovec∑Macinec∑Pragersko (in Slovenia) stretch of the railroad was officially opened, only 35 years after the first train journey had taken place in England. The 4 kilometre-long railroad provided a direct connection between Budapest and the main road between Vienna and Trieste. The first train to travel on the Na gykanisza∑Kotoriba∑»akovec∑Macinec∑Pr agersko section had 17 wagons and it was seen off and welcomed by the roar of cannon fire, champagne, brass band music and a ball in »akovec. Originally, the train was to run through Varaædin, but the locals complained 162

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that the whistles of the train locomotive through their town would stop their hens from laying eggs and their cows from giving milk. Thus, the locals of Varaædin sacrificed a prominent place in railroad history because of their hens and got their railway 26 years later. Two years later, in 1862, the train arrived in Zagreb when the railroad Zidani Most (in Slovenia)∑Zagreb∑Sisak was opened. What followed was the construction of the railroad leading to Karlovac. The first train arrived in Karlovac on the 1st of June, 1865. The second stage of construction in Karlovac started in 1873, when Karlovac was connected to Rijeka. The story about that is particularly interesting. The Rijeka harbour has always been a dark object of desire for rulers of the littoral. Hungarians and Austrians competed as to who would get to the sea first, so Rijeka was included in the main network of railroads in Central Europe as early as 1873, with as many as two railways within a period of only four months. On June 25th, Austrians brought the St. Peter’s railway (the former name of today’s Pivka in Slovenia) to Rijeka and thus connected Rijeka to Vienna, and on October 23rd, Hungarians connected Rijeka to Budapest with the Karlovac-Rijeka railroad, but there was a delay of 4 months. That was one of the most difficult mountain railways to build in Europe. The construction of the Karlovac ∑ Rijeka railroad was so demanding that it lasted 4 years and involved a lot of manpower, up to 23 thousand workers. From 1871 onwards, workers used dynamite, which Alfred Nobel had just invented in 1867, to break up the rock. During the construction phase of the railway, a member of the public was quoted in a newspaper article as saying: When digging the ground during the construction of a bridge, they found gold ore. I heard that surveyors took a piece of that ore to Vienna to get it tested and classified, and it seemed to have a very high gold content; I have a piece of that ore, too. The gold mine story proved to be incorrect, but the real gold mine was the railway, which came to Rijeka from the side of Vienna. It was instrumental in the development of tourism because European aristocrats started coming to beautiful Opatija by train and transformed it into a fashionable summer resort, the essence of which still lives in the Kvarner and Imperial hotels, but also at the Opatija∑Matulji railway station, which still boasts a royal waiting room. Apart from the first hotels in Opatija and Lovran, Friedrich Julius Schüler, the director of the, then, Association of Southern Railways, also commissioned the construction of the well-known promenade by the

sea, stretching from Volosko to Lovran. The construction of the railway from DivaËa in Slovenia to Pula, with an additional stretch from Kanfanar to Rovinj, which was officially opened on the 20th of September, 1876, marked the beginning of tourism in Istria, after Industrialist and Entrepreneur Paul Kupelwieser bought the Brijuni archipelago in 1893. He had the swamp drained, eradicated malaria and turned Brijuni into a coveted holiday destination for the rich and famous of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The archipelago is still an exclusive tourist destination today. This year also marks the 90th anniversary of the Lika section opening of the railroad which connects Zagreb to Split and ©ibenik. It was built in stages, so that in 1877, the section between SiveriÊ∑Split was opened with a connection to PerkoviÊ and ©ibenik. It was originally used for transporting coal from SiveriË mines to the harbours of Split and ©ibenik. Nikola Turkalj, an engineer from Zagreb, played a huge and somewhat interesting role in the construction of the last stage of the Lika railway, which was completed in 1925. He was one of the few Croat experts who was recruited for the construction of the railway. As a big nature lover, during the construction of the Lika railway, he discovered the CerovaËke caves, secured an entrance into them and started their professional valorisation. The fantastic CeroveËke caves can now be accessed by train because, every so often, there is an excursion by train to the very entrance of the caves. The existence of a railway brought prosperity to all the technical, social and humanistic forms of human activity. Very often, it has served as an inspiration for writers and painters. Railway workers have always been very closely tied to their system and they have exerted a significant influence on the development of society; in other words, they have always been socially responsible. Today, Croatia has a network of 2,604 kilometres of railroad track, 109 tunnels, 596 railway bridges, 597 official facilities, including railway stations, which are often the first point of encounter between tourists and a city they visit. A lot is being invested in their modernization. Croatia, as a Mediterranean country, has a lot of railway stations on the coast, which is very rare in the world. Railway tracks are nowhere so close to the sea as in Pula, Rijeka, Zadar, ©ibenik, Split and PloËe. And nowhere in the world are they closer to the truth that travelling by train is like sailing on land. This is just a segment of the big patchwork of transport called the Croatian railway tradition. The 155-year-old tradition goes on, but that would be an entirely different story.

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24.-27.9., Zagreb 11. IZDANJE FESTIVALA 25 FPS/ THE 25 FPS FESTIVAL, 11th EDITION Zanimljive filmove πto Êe ih predstaviti autori u Studentskom centru moæete pogledati na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju avangardnoga i eksperimentalnog filma./You can see interesting films, which will be presented by their producers at the Student Centre at the festival that follows the latest innovations in avant-garde and experimental film. www.25fps.hr 25.9.-4.10., Zagreb GRI»EVANJE Na zagrebaËkome Gornjem gradu odvijat Êe se peto izdanje GriËevanja, koje Êe otvoriti splitski TBF. To je festival koji ujedinjuje dobru zabavu i koncerte, topla i hladna piÊa i iÊa te sajamsku atmosferu ukomponiranu u starozagrebaËke legende o vjeπticama na GriËu./ The fifth edition of Gričevanje is being opened by Split band, TBF, and will take place in Zagreb's Upper Town. It is a festival that combines fun, music, food and drink and an atmosphere that incorporates the legends of the Grič Witches of Old Zagreb. www.gricevanje.com Varaædin i okolica/Varaædin and surroundings do 1.10., Varaædin/until 1.10., Varaždin 45. VARAÆDINSKE BAROKNE VE»ERI/THE 45th VARAŽDIN BAROQUE EVENINGS Tijekom Varaædinskih baroknih veËeri moÊi Êete uæivati u baroknoj glazbi i gostovanju domaÊih i stranih glazbenika./During the Varaždin Baroque Evenings you will be able to enjoy * Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara * This schedule is valid until August 15th. Allow for changes after this date.

Pula i okolica/Pula and surroundings do 30.11., Motovun until 30.11., Motovun DANI TARTUFA U SRCU ISTRE/ TRUFFLE DAYS IN THE HEART OF ISTRIA AutentiËan istarski proizvod − tartuf - mirisom, okusom i nadasve tajanstvenim naËinom rasta bez nadzemnog dijela i vidljivih znakova Ëini potragu za njim joπ mistiËnijom... U veÊini ugostiteljskih objekata bit Êe ponuena raznolika jela od tartufa./An authentic Istrian product -the trufflewith its aroma, flavour and above all, its mysterious way of growing without a visible stem or trace of where it may be found, makes searching for it even more interesting... In most catering facilities, a variety of truffle dishes will be offered. www.istria-gourmet.com 27.9., Viæinada BICIKLISTI»KI MARATON PARENZANA/THE PARENZANA CYCLING MARATHON Rekreativni biciklistiËki maraton Parenzana, koji svake godine okuplja sve viπe poklonika rekreativnog biciklizma, kako domaÊih tako i europskih, po masovnosti moæe se svrstati u veÊe takve manifestacije u Hrvatskoj./ Every year, the recreational Parenzana Cycling Marathon attracts more and more recreational cycling fans, both nationally and across Europe, and thanks to its growing volume, it can be classified as one of the better events of its kind in Croatia. www.istria-bike.com

LISTOPAD/OCTOBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings

laboration with the Modern Gallery in Zagreb. www.moderna-galerija.hr

3.10.-3.1., Zagreb ARHITEKTURA I PERFORMANS: GRAFIKE IZ KABINETA LUJA XIV. U FUNDUSU MUO/ ARCHITECTURE AND PERFORMANCE GRAPHICS FROM THE STUDY OF LOUIS XIV, FROM MUSEUM’S HOLDINGS U Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt bit Êe predstavljena Izloæba o graﬁkama koja je i u svjetskim razmjerima raritet, o Ëemu svjedoËi izloæba A Kingdom of Images: French Prints in the Age of Louis XIV, 1660−1715, koja se do 6. rujna ove godine odræavala u prestiænom The Getty Museumu./At the Museum of Arts and Crafts, an exhibition of prints, a rarity in terms of its global scale, will be shown. The exhibition entitled, A Kingdom of Images: French Prints in the Age of Louis XIV, 1660-1715, will be held until the 6th of September at the prestigious Getty Museum. www.muo.hr 6. 10. - 29.11., Zagreb IZLOÆBA ERNST BARLACH I KÄTHE KOLLWITZ: IZVAN GRANICA POSTOJANJA/AN ERNST BARLACH AND KATHE KOLLWITZ EXHIBITION: BEYOND THE BORDERS OF EXISTENCE Retrospektivno koncipirana izloæba koja predstavlja preko stotinu i pedeset skulptura, crteæa i grafika dvoje najznaËajnijih njemaËkih umjetnika ekspresionizma, Ernsta Barlacha i Käthe Kollwitz, internacionalna je likovna uspjeπnica koju Ernst Barlach Gesellschaft Hamburg prireuje u suradnji s Modernom galerijom iz Zagreba./A retrospectively-designed exhibition, which displays a hundred and ﬁfty sculptures, drawings and prints of the two most prominent German Expressionist artists of the early 20th century, Ernst Barlach and Käthe Kollwitz, is an international artistic success, organized by Ernst Barlach Gesellschaft Hamburg in col-

Ernst Barlach - Girl Gathering Greens 2-Bronze-1894

Bernd Boehm

Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings

Baroque music and numerous local and international musicians. www.vbv.hr

9.-17.10., Zagreb ZAGREB KOM 10 Festival ZAGREB KOM 10 meunarodni je kulturno-glazbeni dogaaj koji Êe se odræati u Hrvatskome glazbenom zavodu, a svoj dolazak potvrdili su brojni vrhunski solisti iz cijeloga svijeta. Festival se veÊ deset godina odræava pod umjetniËkim vodstvom svjetski poznate violinistice Susanne Yoko Henkel./The ZAGREB KOM 10 Festival is an international, cultural and musical event which will be held at the Croatian Music Institute, and where numerous top soloists from around the world have conﬁrmed a spot. The festival has been held for ten years under the leadership of the world famous violinist, Susanna Yoko Henkel. www.zagreb-festival.org

V. Matelko

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Sisak i okolica/Sisak and surroundings 9.-11.10., Hrvatska Kostajnica KESTENIJADA/THE CHESTNUT FESTIVAL (KESTENIJADA) Na najljepπoj i najposjeÊenijoj kostajniËkoj manifestaciji, kao i svake godine, planiran je raznolik program, dobra zabava i, dakako, nezaobilazni kesteni./Every year, at the most beautiful and most-visited Kostajnica event, a diverse programme, full of great entertainment, and of course, chestnuts, is planned. www.hrvatska-kostajnica.hr Rijeka i okolica/Rijeka and surroundings 9.-11.10., Punat DANI MASLINA/OLIVE DAYS Gostima na Krku ovim se dogaanjem prezentira sva raskoπ kvalitetnog ploda masline. To je jedinstvane prilika da sudjelujete u berbi maslina i osjetite otoËku svakodnevicu./This event presents the guests of Krk with all the splendour of quality olive-tree fruits. It is a unique opportunity for you to participate in the olive harvest and experience everyday life on the island. www.tzpunat.hr

omoguÊava meusobnu suradnju i razmjenu ideja, potiËe inovativnost i promiËe nautiËku industriju na globalnoj razini. Na sajmu moæete dobiti informacije o plovidbi i dobro se zabaviti./Held in autumn, the Biograd Boat Show is a place where people get together to exchange ideas, foster innovation and promote the nautical industry on a global level, thanks to its quality and uniqueness. At the fair, you can receive information on sailing routes and enjoy yourself. www.marinakornati.com STUDENI/NOVEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 7.11., Zagreb KONCERT ST GERMAIN/ ST GERMAIN’S CONCERT Za mnoge ljubitelje elektronskog zvuka, deep housea i fuzije elektronike, bluesa i jazza, St Germain predstavlja apsolutnu ikonu. Velikan francuske elektronike u Tvornicu kulture dolazi 7. studenog u okviru velike povratniËke turneje kojom promovira novi album “Real Blues” i to nakon 15 godina studijske stanke./ For lovers of electronic music, deep house and fusion, as well as blues and jazz, St. Germain is an absolute icon. These great performers of French electronic music are performing at the Culture Factory (Tvornica kulture) on November 7th, as part of a big come-back tour to promote their new album, Real Blues, after a 15-year recording absence. www.terapija.net

23.-25.10., Lovran 42. MARUNADA THE 42nd MARUNADA Cjelodnevni glazbeni i zabavni program u srediπtu Lovrana. Ponuda maruna, kolaËa i ostalih slastica od maruna, domaÊa jela, jela s marunima, med od maruna, medica.../An all-day music and entertainment programme in the centre of Lovran. There will be a selection of chestnut desserts, cakes, local dishes, and other chestnut dishes, chestnut honey, honey brandy... www.tz-lovran.hr Zadar i okolica/Zadar and surroundings 22.-25.10., Biograd BIOGRAD BOAT SHOW 2015./ THE BIOGRAD BOAT SHOW, 2015 Biogradski jesenski nautiËki sajam mjesto je koje kvalitetom i posebnoπÊu

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11.11., Samobor, Dugo Selo, Sv. Ivan Zelina, Velika Gorica, Jastrebarsko MARTINJE U ZAGREBA»KOJ ÆUPANIJI/ST. MARTIN'S DAY (MARTINJE) IN THE ZAGREB COUNTY Popularno Martinje obiËaj je koji je duboko ukorijenjen u tradiciju sjeverozapadnih krajeva Hrvatske, pa se tako joπ i danas obiljeæava u ZagrebaËkoj æupaniji./The popular St. Martin's Day is a custom deeply rooted in the tradition of the Northwestern parts of Croatia, so it is celebrated throughout the Zagreb County even today. www.tz-samobor.hr

13.11., Zagreb KONCERT MERCURY REV/ THE MERCURY REV CONCERT U povodu izlaska novoga studijskog albuma u galeriji Lauba moæete posluπati ameriËke alternativne rockere Mercury Rev./ Following the release of their new studio album, you can attend the American alternative rock group Mercury Rev concert at the Lauba Gallery. www.terapija.net 14.-22.11., Zagreb ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL/ THE ZAGREB FILM FESTIVAL Zagreb Film Festival od poËetka je programski usmjeren k predstavljanju i promidæbi debitantskih filmova i novih autora. Ove Êe se godine prvi put, umjesto veÊ tradicionalno u listopadu, odræati u studenome./Since the very beginning, The Zagreb Film Festival's programme has been focused on the presentation and promotion of debut films and new filmmakers. This year, for the first time, it will take place in November instead of October. www.zagrebfilmfestival.com

21.11., Zagreb KONCERT GRUPE WHITESNAKE /THE WHITESNAKE CONCERT Jedan od najveÊih rock-bendova svih vremena, britanski hard’n’heavy bogovi Whitesnake, u sklopu svoje velike turneje Purple dolaze u zagrebaËki KC Draæena PetroviÊa./One of the greatest rock bands of all time, the British hard'n'heavy Whitesnake gods are coming to Zagreb's Dražen Petrović Basketball Hall as part of their Purple Grand Tour. www.eventim.hr Osijek i okolica/Osijek and surroundings 8.-9.11., Kutjevo PUTEVIMA PANDURA/ ON THE TRAIL OF THE TRENK TROOPERS Manifestacija Putevima pandura projekt je koji se odvija ispred dvorca u Kutjevu te ukljuËuje povijesni prikaz posjeta carice Marije Terezije Kutjevu 1741. godine i njezin susret s barunom

Trenkom i njegovim pandurima./On the Trail of the Trenk Troopers is a project which takes place in front of the castle in Kutjevo and includes a historical account of Empress Maria Theresa's visits to Kutjevo in 1741, and her encounter with Baron Trenk and his troopers. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info PROSINAC/DECEMBER Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 2.12., Zagreb KONCERT EDITORS/ THE EDITORS CONCERT Britanska grupa Editors vraÊa se u Veliki pogon Tvornice kulture u srijedu, 2. prosinca. Novi dolazak pratit Êe objava svjeæeg materijala Ëiji se izlazak planira za jesen./ The British group, Editors, returns to the Culture Factory (Tvornica kulture) on Wednesday, December 2nd. Get a peek of their new material, the release of which is planned for autumn. www.terapija.net 18.12. i 19.12., Zagreb KONCERT PARNOG VALJKA/ THE PARNI VALJAK CONCERT Parni valjak, jedan od najboljih regionalnih rock-bendova, ove godine slavi 40. obljetnicu, koju Êe proslaviti s dva velika koncerta u zagrebaËkom Domu sportova. Taj legendarni bend nastupit Êe 18.12.2015. u Maloj dvorani, a samo dan poslije u Velikoj dvorani Doma sportova te zacijelo oduπeviti zagrebaËku publiku akustiËnim i elektriËnim koncertima./This year, Parni Valjak, one of the best regional rock bands, celebrates its 40th anniversary by giving two concerts at Zagreb's Dom Sportova. The legendary band will perform on the 18th of December, 2015, in the Small Hall, and a day later, at the Great Hall of Dom Sportova; Zagreb audiences will surely be amazed by these two acoustic and electric concerts. www.eventim.hr Prosinac, Zagreb/December, Zagreb ADVENT U ZAGREBU Na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa, kao i na ostalim trgovima i ulicama grada, u sklopu te tradicionalne blagdanske manifestacije, organizira se bogat kulturno-zabavni program./As part of a traditional holiday event, a culturallyrich and entertaining programme will be organized on Ban Jelačić Square, as well as on other squares and streets throughout the city. www.adventzagreb.com

D. Fabijanić

SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 169 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

172 NOVOSTI NEWS

174 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 177 FLOTA FLEET 179 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 181 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 182 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 184 ADRESE S. Jungić

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Prikupljajte milje već danas! W

Odvojite privremenu karticu i navedite Miles & More članski broj s privremene kartice prilikom svake buduće rezervacije Unesite detalje s ovog leta u priloženi formular kako bi vam se dodijelile milje Zatražite milje za kupnju/letove/rezervacije s Miles & More partnerima za proteklih 6 mjeseci kako bi se milje retrogradno upisale na miles-and-more.com/ mileagerequest

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1234 5678 9012 345

Privremena Miles & More kartica/ Temporary Miles & More card

This is not a credit card

Tear off the temporary Miles & More card and quote the service card number every time you book or reserve a service from Miles & More partners Enter details of your current flight in the form below and earn miles for it Have miles for purchases/flights/bookings with Miles & More partners in the last six months credited to your account retroactively atmiles-and-more.com/ mileagerequest

0HR01 Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters

Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building Poštanski broj / Postcode

1234 5678 9012 345 Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt−Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt−Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 072 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Ime/First or given name

Prezime/Family name

Miles & More najveći je program nagrađivanja putnika (frequent flyer program) u Europi. Sudjelujući u programu, članovi prikupljaju milje letenjem, unajmljivanjem vozila, odsjedanjem u hotelu i potrošnjom preko Miles & More cobrand kreditnih kartica. Sve informacije o programu možete naći na www.croatiaairlines.com/miles-and-more ili na broj telefona Miles & More kontakt centra 072 220 220.

By participating in the programme, members collect miles by flying, car rental, staying in hotels or by using their co-branded Miles & More credit cards. Enjoy all the privileges the programme offers! Collect and spend your miles! All information about the program could be found at www.croatiaairlines.com/miles-and-more or to telephone number Miles & More contact centar for Croatia market 072 220 220

Jednostavno je učlaniti se: W

Predajte vašu popunjenu pristupnicu kabinskom osoblju na letu ili je pošaljite poštom: Miles & More Postfach 1434, 33309 Gütersloh, Deutschland ili pošaljite fax: +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 ili preko interneta na web stranici: miles-and-more.com/croatia

It is so easy to join: W

Hand your completed application to your flight attendant Or send it by post to: Miles & More Postfach 1434, 33309 Gütersloh, Germany

Or fax it to: +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

Or online. Just visit: miles-and-more.com/registration

Miles & More

Osnove programa Miles & More

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More je vodeÊi program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the leading frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the ser vices of many par tners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline par tners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car par tners or staying in participating hotels.

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u Miles & More programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojeg ostvarujete pogodnosti

Tiers and beneﬁts By using the Miles & More par tners’ ser vices members collect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled ﬂights operated by Croatia CROATIA AIRLINES

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prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe kuje vas status Se nator. »lanovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Circle status.

Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus − 25 % više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog ra zreda - veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji te klasi prijevoza. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja.

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Business Class counter - Increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in First Class.

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus − 25 % više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 nagradnih milja - uporaba Luf thansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge par tnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog ra zreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezer vacije do 48 sati u najvišemu ekonomskome i najvišemu poslovnom razredu - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom, 3 komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu i 4 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja - dva e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja Senator statusa te prilikom svake obnove statusa. - Senator Premium Award - Companion Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Ac ce ss to the Luf than sa Se na tor Lo un ge as well as to the Star Gold Lo un ges of Star Alli an ce par tners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 hours before departure in the highest booking class in Business and Economy class - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business and 4 bags in First Class - 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal. - Senator Premium Award - Companion award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - predujam od 100.000 nagradnih milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili par tnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - šest e-vauËera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja HON Circle statusa te prilikom svake obnove statusa

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges highest waiting list priority - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or par tner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended

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-dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa 2 komada prtljage u ekonomskom, 3 komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu i 4 komada prtljage u prvom razredu putovanja

- An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On ﬂights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business and 4 bags in First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne zrakoplovne kar te, premjeπtaj u viπi ra zred putovanja (upgrade), ra zliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShop-u.

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: ﬂight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.

Zatra æite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! Q 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja Q Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. Q Osvojite joπ viπe milja − koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. Q 2 kar tice − 1 raËun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! Q 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile

Q 2 cre dit cards − 1 Miles & Mo re member ship account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatra æite svoju Croatia Airlines American Express kreditnu kar ticu! Q 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za sva ke 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice Q 2500 milja dobrodoπlice − za nove osnov ne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike Q 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike Q Dvostruke nagradne milje − za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa Q Besplatno uËlanjenje u Priority Pass program koji vam omoguÊava pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama (uz naknadu za pristup). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! Q 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. Q 2.500 welcome miles − for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. Q 1.500 welcome miles − for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. Q Earn double award miles − using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales of ﬁces and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa. Q Free Priority Pass programme enrollment − it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges (visit charge applicable).

Collect award miles ever ywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC of ﬁces in Croatia or abroad

Q Collect ex tra award miles − by using other Diners Club beneﬁts, such as free online ser vices, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc.

Please ﬁnd detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS of not only ticket sales, but the number of visitors to our website. On the LinkedIn profile (https://www.linkedin.com/company/croatiaairlines), we have so far registered more than 3,800 followers. On the Google+ profile (https://plus.google. com/u/0/b/110482521123632198166/+croati aairlines), which was opened in July 2012, we have 304 followers and more than 406,000 views. Our YouTube profile (https://www.youtube.com/user/CroAirlines) has since the 8th of November 2011, attracted 104 subscribers and recorded nearly 22,000 hits.

PREVEZLI SMO MILIJUNTOG PUTNIKA U 2015. GODINI

Dana 27. srpnja 2015. prevezli smo naπega ovogodiπnjeg milijuntog putnika, dan ranije nego lani. Jubilarni putnik ove je godine Maro PopoviÊ, koji je iz Amsterdama doputovao u Zagreb u posjet obitelji. Darovali smo mu dvije besplatne povratne zrakoplovne karte u poslovnom razredu za jedno od naπih meunarodnih odrediπta, po izboru. Ove godine u zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa oËekuje se ukupno oko 1,880.000 putnika, odnosno dva do tri posto viπe u odnosu na lani. WE TRANSPORTED THE MILLIONTH PASSENGER IN 2015

On July 27, 2015, we transported our millionth passenger this year, a day earlier than last year. The jubilee passenger, this year, is Maro PopoviÊ, who arrived in Zagreb from Amsterdam to visit his family. We awarded him with two complimentary business class return tickets to any one of our international destinations. By the end of 2015, it is expected that the Croatian national carrier will have transported approximately 1,880,000 passengers, about 2-3 percent more than last year. IMAMO PROFILE I NA TWITTERU I INSTAGRAMU

Kako bismo se joπ viπe pribliæili korisnicima naših usluga, proširili smo prisutnost na društvenim mrežama pa tako uz Facebook, LinkedIn, Google+ i YouTube, imamo službene profile i na Twitteru (https://twitter.com/ croatiaairlines) i Instagramu (https://instagram. com/croatia.airlines). Preko navedenih profila korisnici usluga mogu pratiti novosti iz tvrtke, posebne ponude, javljati sviđaju li im se objavljene fotografije, pisati nam, podijeliti svoje fotografije s putovanja i drugo. 172

CROATIA AIRLINES

Na našem Facebook profilu (https://www. facebook.com/croatiaairlines), koji je otvoren u travnju 2010. godine, zasad je zabilježeno gotovo 108.000 fanova. Tu se objavljuju novosti, posebne ponude, događanja, organiziraju nagradni natječaji za domaće i inozemna tržišta, a predstavljanjem posebnih ponuda istodobno se povećava posjećenost na našim internetskim stranicama te kupnja zrakoplovnih karata. Na LinkedIn profilu (https://www. linkedin.com/company/croatia-airlines) zasad smo registrirali više od 3800 pratitelja. Na Google + profilu (https://plus.google.com/ u/0/b/110482521123632198166/+croatiaairlin es), koji je otvoren u srpnju 2012. g., imamo 304 pratitelja i više od 406.000 prikaza. Naš YouTube profi l (https://www.youtube.com/ user/CroAirlines) od 8. studenoga 2011. do danas privukao je 104 pretplatnika i zabilježio gotovo 22.000 pregleda. WE HAVE PROFILES ON TWITTER AND INSTAGRAM

In order to be even closer to our customers, we have expanded our presence on social networking sites and thus, in addition to Facebook, LinkedIn, Google+ and YouTube, we have opened official profiles on Twitter: (https://twitter.com/croatiaairlines), and Instagram: (https://instagram.com/croatia.airlines ). Through these profiles, our customers can follow recent news about the company, special offers, tell us whether they like the published photographs, write to us, and share photographs from their travels with us and more. On our Facebook profile (https://www.facebook.com/croatiaairlines), which was opened in April 2010, we have so far recorded almost 108,000 fans. This is a profile where we publish news, announce special offers and events, and organize contests for both domestic and international markets. Because of the special deals we offer, we have increased the number

DOBILI SMO PRIZNANJE SKYTRAXA

U ovogodiπnjem izboru Skytraxa, britanske konzultantske tvrtke za istraæivanje kvalitete usluge avioprijevoznika, koja svake godine dodjeljuje prestiænu nagradu World Airline Awards, Croatia Airlines proglaπen je Ëetvrtom najboljom zraËnom kompanijom u istoËnoj Europi. To priznanje smatramo joπ jednom vrijednom potvrdom kvalitete poslovanja i prepoznatljivosti brenda Croatia Airlinesa u Europi i svijetu, a osobito zbog toga πto je rezultat najveÊega neovisnoga strukovnog istraæivanja civilnog zrakoplovstva u svijetu. WE ALSO WON THE SKYTRAX AWARD

This year, Skytrax, a British consulting ﬁrm responsible for research into the quality of airline services, and which, every year, gives out the prestigious World Airline Awards, declared Croatia Airlines as the fourth best airline in Eastern Europe. We consider this valuable conﬁrmation of the quality of our operations and recognition for the Croatia Airlines brand in Europe and the world, especially because it comes as a result of the largest independent professional research of civil aviation done in the world.

Pratite nas na Twitteru i Instagramu Croatia Airlines proširuje svoju prisutnost na društvenim mrežama pa nas uz Facebook, LinkedIn, Google+ i YouTube možete pronaći također na Instagramu i Twitteru. Pratite sve naše novosti i posebne ponude na Twitteru, a svoje fotografije s putovanja podijelite na Instagramu! Follow us on Twitter and Instagram Croatia Airlines will be extending its social media portfolio and besides Facebook, LinkedIn, Google+ and YouTube you can find us also on Instagram and Twitter. Now you can check all our news and special offers on Twitter and share photos from your travels with us on Instagram.

croatiaairlines.com

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Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj ■ ElektroniËke igre ■ e-ËitaË ■ Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala ■ Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj ■ Bluetooth ureaji ■ Kamere ■ Medicinski ureaji ■ ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat ■ ■

D. Fabijanić

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad ■ maksimalna teæina 8 kg ■ zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada ■ maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu ■ zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije. UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi. RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta. ELEKTRONIČKI URE AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja. Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: ■ Mobilni/Smart telefoni ■ Tablet raËunala

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate. U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska. U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta. Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa. Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci. IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed). Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa. Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima.

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Faze leta

Mobilni/ Smart telefoni, Tablet

Prijenosno Sluπalice za raËunalo suzbijanje buke

Funkcija teksta/razgovora

Ukrcavanje

Kaπnjenje u polasku

Taksiranje za polijetanje

DA*

Polijetanje

DA*

Tijekom leta

Spuπtanje

DA*

Slijetanje

DA*

Taksiranje

DA*

*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje 174

CROATIA AIRLINES

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inﬂight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole ﬂight. Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the ﬂight.

HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece ■ max. weight 8 kg ■ total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces ■ max. weight per piece 8 kg ■ total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a ﬂight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments.

S. Jungić

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking ﬂights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the ﬂight, please return to it before each landing.

■

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the ﬂight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your ﬂight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers ■ Portable DVD/CD player ■ Bluetooth devices ■ Personal cameras ■ Assistive medical devices ■ Electric shaver ■

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in ﬂight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on. List of approved personal electronic devices: ■ Mobile/Smart phones ■ Tablet computers ■ Noise-cancelling headphones ■ Digital audio/MP3 player ■ Electronic games

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft. In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media. Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight. On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages. On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead). Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors.

Use of electronic devices during different ﬂight phases Flight phase

Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)

Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)

Noisecancelling Headphones

Text and phone functions

Boarding

YES

Extended Ground Delay

YES

Taxi-out for Take-off

YES

YES*

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Take-off

YES

YES*

Cruise

YES

Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the ﬂight attendant’s

Descent

YES

YES*

Landing

YES

YES*

Taxi to Stand

YES

YES*

YES

*During critical phases of ﬂight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Renting with Sixt is always rewarding! www.sixt.com/croatia-airlines 176

CROATIA AIRLINES

FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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178

CROATIA AIRLINES

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS TRONDHEIM

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau LYON

Turin

PORTO

VENICE

RIJEKA

Genoa NICE

Madrid

OSIJEK BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA»

BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners: Air France

Alitalia

Austrian Airlines

Brussels Airlines

KLM

LOT Polish Airlines

Lufthansa

SAS

Singapore Airlines

Swiss International Air Lines

Turkish Airlines

United Airlines

TAP Portugal

TAP PORTUGAL

Air Canada

CROATIA AIRLINES

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)O\ WR Dubrovnik

tel: +385 20 773 333, fax: +385 20 773 322

180 CROATIA AIRLINES e-mail: info@airport-dubrovnik.hr, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

1 D

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

i S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËi Ê

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

i i

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) − Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) − Rijeka − Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) − Zagreb Airport − Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport − Rijeka − Departure at 15.30.

Flight Information Informacije o letovima Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

ZAGREB − Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

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WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL? Dragi putnici!

Æarko RistiÊ

Zahvaljujemo na predivnim fotografijama koje nam πaljete s vaπih putovanja. Svako godiπnje doba ima svoje prednosti, a neka vam najljepπe boje jeseni budu nadahnuće za nove fotografije. ©aljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπem nagradnom natjeËaju. Pobjednika Êemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa, a dva će dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete. Fotografiju autorice Ksenije Priselac odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promidæbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Siniπu Jembriha i Æarka RistiÊa. I dalje vas pozivamo da nam πaljete vaπe fotografije s neobiËnih i zanimljivih mjesta s putovanja, jer i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vas vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite naπu web stranicu www.croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/ Nagradne igre i natjeËaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natjeËaja i sudjelujte! Volim putovati jer hoÊu promatrati svijet iz najrazliËitijih perspektiva. I love to travel because I want to see the world from different perspectives.

Dear passengers!

Siniπa Jembrih

Thank you for the wonderful photographs you have been sending us of your travels. Each season has its advantages, so let the most beautiful autumn colors be the inspiration for your new photographs. Send us your photos accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling and take part in the photo contest. We will award the ﬁrst prize winner with two roundtrip tickets for any Croatia Airlines ﬂight to a destination of choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages. We have selected Ksenija Priselac as the winner of the best photo in this issue; she is the proud owner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets. Siniπa Jembrih and Æarko RistiÊ have won our promotional packages. We invite you to continue sending us your photographs from unusual and interesting places on your travels, because in the next issue, valuable prizes are awaiting you again. Visit our web page at: www.croatiaairlines. hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), read the terms and conditions, and take part in the contest! Putuj. Putuj s ljudima koje voliπ i cijeniπ.

Volim putovati jer svijet je lijep... I love to travel because the world is beautiful....

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Ksenija Priselac

Travel, travel with people you love and appreciate.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt 60 313 Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München 85 356 München Flughafen/Airport Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Ebene 4. Büro 4.1319 Tel. (+49-89) 975-92-730 Fax (+49-89) 975-92-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr

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CROATIA AIRLINES

ADDRESSES Paris

Pula

95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr

Rijeka

51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Bill Clinton 32, 10031 Prishtina Tel. +381 38 233 833 Fax +381 38 245 845 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal APG - Portugal Viela da Beloura, nº7 − Quinta da Beloura 2710 - 693 Sintra Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr SlovaËka CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT c/Valencia, 266, 4, 1, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 Fax +34 934 880 121 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Turska ZENITH Services Ordu Caddesi, No. 12/1, Laleli Fatih 34134 Istanbul Tel. +90 212 513 2667, gsm +90 533 738 8470 Fax +90 212 512 4234 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr ZENITH Services Istanbul Ataturk Airport Tel. +90 212 465 5023 Fax +90 212 465 4092 turkey@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th ﬂoor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 customersupport@croatiaairlines.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Paciﬁc Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 peclpax@ms57.hinet.net

Doing business in style

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

Information and reservations: T +385 52 465 000

www.valamar.com

Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel 4*+

Valamar Dubrovnik President Hotel 5*

Valamar offers state of the art congress, business and banqueting facilities along with a pleasant working atmosphere for over 1200 delegates in the hotels Valamar Dubrovnik President 5*, Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik 4* and Valamar Argosy 4*, just a short drive from the unique magic and buzz of the famous Old town of Dubrovnik.