Putni časopis CROATIA - proljeće 2019 / In flight magazine CROATIA - Spring 2019 by Croatia Airlines

ProljeÄ&#x2021;e _ Spring 2019

Š. Lugarov

Poštovani putnici!

Dear passengers,

Hvala vam što ste za svoje putovanje odabrali našu kompaniju i nadam se da uživate u našem zajedničkom letu. Ulazimo u ljetni red letenja, koji smo, kao i uvijek, nastojali prilagoditi vašim potrebama. Uskrsni blagdani za nas su tradicionalno početak turističke sezone, kada postupno uvodimo mnoge sezonske linije iz najvažnijih emitivnih tržišta. Novost je uvođenje dodatnoga leta u Dublin, a naši zrakoplovi i ove sezone lete u svih 10 odredišta koja su u mrežu letova uključena u posljednje tri godine − Lisabon, Milano, Prag, Sankt Peterburg, Stockholm, Oslo, Helsinki, Bukurešt, Dublin i Mostar, kao i na sezonskim linijama Split−Kopenhagen i Dubrovnik−München. Vjerujem da ste primijetili i male novosti u izgledu naše flote. Povećan je logotip CROATIA na našim zrakoplovima, koji je sada uočljiviji, a kvadrati, prepoznatljivi simboli hrvatskoga nacionalnog identiteta, protežu se niže na trup. Više o novom izgledu naših zrakoplova možete saznati na stranicama našega putnog časopisa. Također donosimo zanimljivu reportažu o poluotoku Pelješcu, predstavljamo vam naše vrhunske vinske hotele, Sisak − grad sporta, a od naših starih odredišta pišemo o uvijek privlačnom Parizu. Dakako, nije to sve pa vjerujemo da ćete poneku temu i sami otkriti listajući naš časopis. Ova je godina za nas posebna jer u njoj obilježavamo 30. godišnjicu osnutka naše kompanije. Zahvalni smo vam, dragi putnici, na vašoj dugogodišnjoj vjernosti, svjesni da bez vaše podrške ne bismo uspjeli. Učinit ćemo sve da i u budućnosti opravdamo vaše povjerenje te da zajedno letimo još više. Radujem se svakom vašem letu s nama.

Thank you for choosing our company for your travel. I hope you’re enjoying our flight together. We’ve entered our summer timetable, which we’ve again tailored to your needs. Easter holidays are traditionally the beginning of the tourist season, when we gradually start introducing our seasonal flights from the most important emissive markets. The introduction of an additional flight to Dublin is a novelty. We’re also flying to all the 10 destinations introduced into our flight network in the last 3 years − Lisbon, Milan, Prague, St. Petersburg, Stockholm, Oslo, Helsinki, Bucharest, Dublin and Mostar − as well as on the seasonal Split−Copenhagen and Dubrovnik−Munich routes introduced last year. I believe you have noticed small changes in the look of our fleet. The logo CROATIA was enlarged and is now more visible, and the squares, a recognisable symbol of Croatian national identity, are now also spread lower across the fuselage. You can find out more about the new look of our aircraft on the pages before you in which we’re also bringing interesting pieces about the Peninsula of Pelješac, about some of Croatia’s top-quality wine hotels, Sisak − a city of sports, and − from our old destinations − the ever so stunning Paris. That’s, of course, not all, and we believe that you will come across a topic that will interest you while leafing through our magazine. This year is special for us because it marks the 30th anniversary of our company. We’re grateful to you, dear passengers, for your unswaying loyalty, aware that without your support we wouldn’t have succeeded. We’ll do everything in our power to continue justifying your trust in the future and to fly farther together. I look forward to all your flights with us.

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

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SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

10 Razgovor IVANA FRANKE, NA RUBU STVARNOSTI Jedna od onih koji će publici uvijek priuštiti poseban vizualni i emotivni doživljaj, osmišljen kroz igre svjetlosnih instalacija, jest Ivana Franke. Interview IVANA FRANKE, ON THE EDGE OF REALITY Ivana Franke is an artist who’ll always give the audience a special visual and emotional experience, designed through light installations.

Proljeće/Spring 2019 www.croatiaairlines.com

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy 2 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2019

Poluotoci PELJEŠAC U SRCU MAESTRALA Pelješac je carstvo maestrala, plavca malog, maslina i soli. Raj za surfere i kite surfere.

Prirodne ljepote KRUPA, DIVLJA LJEPOTA Krupa je nepoznati biser krša, oaza u kamenjaru. Jedna je od najmanje poznatih, ali najljepših rijeka Hrvatske.

Peninsulas PELJEŠAC AT THE HEART OF THE MISTRAL Pelješac is an empire of the mistral, the Plavac Mali variety of grape, olive groves and salt... and a paradise for surfers and kitesurfers.

Natural attractions THE WILD BEAUTY OF THE KRUPA RIVER The Krupa River is an unknown pearl of karst, an oasis surrounded by rock. It’s one of the least known, yet one of the most beautiful rivers of Croatia.

40 Gastro VRHUNSKI VINSKI HOTELI Predstavljamo četiri vrhunska obiteljska hotela koji upotpunjuju rad već itekako poznatih vinarija iz kojih su izrasli. Gastro TOP-QUALITY WINE HOTELS We’re presenting four first-rate family hotels which have been complementing the work of already very well-known wineries that they grew out of.

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Design ILLUMINATED CREATIONS BY CROATIAN DESIGNERS Creating lamps that would satisfy our need in matching high quality with aesthetics has been a great challenge for designers.

A. Grubelić − Pelješac

Dizajn SVJETLEĆE KREACIJE HRVATSKIH DIZAJNERA Velik je izazov dizajnerima kreirati svjetiljke koje će udovoljiti našim potrebama da budu kvalitetne, ali i lijepe.

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel.: +385-1-616-00-66 e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Naša odredišta PARIZ, UVIJEK SJAJNA IDEJA Pariz još uvijek slovi kao grad ljubavi i dobre hrane. Želite li se uvjeriti da se to nije promijenilo, dođite, provjerite sami i uživajte.

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Jasmin Bajić

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Our destinations PARIS, ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA Paris is still regarded as the city of love and good food. The best way to check if this has changed is to visit Paris to see for yourself and enjoy it.

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić, Anamarija Jurinjak, Zlata Prpić

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Miranda Herceg, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout

Moda ODJEĆA S KARAKTEROM Price on Request inovativni je modni brend koji poziva na promjene, recikliranje i održivost.

Miranda Herceg, Nenad VujoπeviÊ Direktor prodaje i marketinga/ Director of Sales and Marketing Boris Kolka

Fashion CLOTHES WITH CHARACTER Price on Request is an innovative fashion brand invoking change, recycling and sustainability.

Lektor/Proofreader Nevena Erak Camaj Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Ana Janković

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines

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Gabrijela Lochert

Kontinentalna Hrvatska SISAK ∑ EUROPSKI GRAD SPORTA 2019. Sisak je grad obitelji u kojemu je ugodno živjeti, a moderna obitelj sve više vremena posvećuje sportu i zdravome načinu života.

tel.: +385-1-616-00-17

Continental Croatia SISAK ∑ A 2019 EUROPEAN CITY OF SPORTS Sisak is a town ideal for families and a pleasant place to live in. Today’s families dedicate much time to sports and healthy lifestyle choices.

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e-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel.: +385-1-616-01-02 Priprema/Prepress AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb Tisak/Press AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb

ISSN 1330-6278

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CHECKPOINT NUNC − hrvatski dizajnerski brend A Croatian design brand NUNC je brend namještaja čiji je dizajn proizvoda suvremena reinterpretacija tradicije i kulture svakodnevnog života Slavonije, istočne regije Hrvatske. Minimalistički dizajn proizvoda prve kolekcije omogućuje njihovu funkcionalnu primjenu u privatnim i poslovnim interijerima te hotelsko-ugostiteljskim objektima. NUNC is a brand of furniture whose product design is a modern reinterpretation of the tradition and culture of everyday life of Slavonia, the eastern region of Croatia. Thanks to the minimalist design of their first collection, all the pieces can be functionally used in both home and business office interiors, as well as in hotels, cafes and restaurants. D. Kunić

www.nunc.design, www.instagram.com/nunc.design

Zaiskrite svoj dan vinima Tomac Sparkle up your day with Tomac wines

Fotoarhiva Vina Tomac/ Tomac wines photo archives

Obiteljska vinarija Tomac cijenjena je i međunarodno nagrađivana zbog svojih pjenušavih vina rađenih klasičnom metodom i posebnih orange vina, njegovanih u pravim, gruzijskim amforama. Ova izvrsna vina moguće je pronaći u centru Zagreba, u vinoteci Vivat fina vina u Martićevoj 12. The Tomac family winery enjoys a good reputation and has been internationally awarded for its sparkling wines produced using the méthode classique and their special orange wines, aged in real Georgian amphorae. These excellent wines are available in the city centre of Zagreb in the Vivat Fina Vina wine shop at No. 12 Martićeva Street. www.vivat-finavina.hr

M. Miletić

Mammii − ekskluzivno u Garderobi Available exclusively in Garderoba Mammii je hrvatski brend ručno izrađenog nakita. Svaki predmet je jedinstven, baš kao i osoba koja ga nosi. Mammii nakit prodaje se u Garderoba Concept Storeu u Martićevoj 17 u Zagrebu, a od svibnja Garderoba se otvara i u Rovinju, u hotelu Grand Park. Mammii is a Croatian brand of handcrafted jewellery. Each piece is unique, just like the person wearing it. Mammii jewellery is available in the Garderoba Concept Store in Zagreb (No. 17 Martićeva Street), which is opening a second store in Rovinj in May in Grand Park Hotel. www.instagram.com/garderobastore, Facebook, garderobastore.hr

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RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

Ivana Franke radi na otkrivanju novih doĹživljaja, percepcija i konzumiranja New Age umjetnosti Ivana Franke works on discovering new experiences, perceptions and ways of consuming New Age art

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Razvojem tehnologije mijenja se ne samo umjetnost nego i društvo koje tu umjetnost konzumira. Interaktivno najedanput postaje nezaobilazno pa i svi mi osobno sudjelujemo u umjetničkom eksperimentu. Ivana Franke publici će uvijek priuštiti poseban vizualni i emotivni doživljaj, osmišljen kroz igre svjetlosnih instalacija. What changes as a result of the development of technology is not only art, but also society which consumes this art. Interactivity has all of a sudden become unavoidable, and so we all take part in artistic experiments personally. Ivana Franke will always give the audience a special visual and emotional experience, designed through the play of light in her light installations.

Piše/By _ Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografije/Photos _ Saša Ćetković

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01 Rad naziva We Close our Eyes and See a Flock of Birds poziva posjetitelje da sjednu i zažmire. Kad zaklope oči, vide ptice kako lete i ljude kako prolaze... Her work We Close our Eyes and See a Flock of Birds invites visitors to sit down and close their eyes. Once they do, they see birds flying and people walking... 02 Disorientation Station (White), 11. bijenale u Šangaju, 2016. Instalacija uključuje frekvencijski raspon treperenja svjetla na 12 - 33 Hz Disorientation Station (White), 11th Biennial in Shanghai, 2016. The installation includes light flickering at a frequency of 12-33 Hz

Future, Years Away, Knowledge of Fireflies. Također se bavim tragovima drugih mjesta i perifernim pojavama koje su nevažne za svakodnevni život i na njih ne obraćamo pozornost pa ih uglavnom ne primjećujemo (Latency (Sala Luzzatto), Multiple Skies) te konceptima i vizualizacijama višedimenzionalnih prostora i inverziji pogleda prema nematerijalnome (Potential Degrees of Freedom, Thinking Dimensions, Boxedin Infinite Polyhedron, Entanglement is a Fragile State). No često se sve te teme međusobno isprepleću, neki radovi obuhvaćaju više tema istodobno. Vaši radovi kao da su neki oblik pozivnice, posjetitelje pozivate u svijet svjetlosti i tame − jesu li oni dio Vaših

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03 Instalacija Seeing with Eyes Closed, gotovo kao meditacija Seeing with Eyes Closed, almost like meditation

ma… Prije nego što svoje ideje prevede u realnost (barem djelomično), Ivana se bavi istraživanjima, računanjima i teorijama. Koja su Vam omiljena područja istraživanja i glavna preokupacija u radu? − Osnovna preokupacija u radu jest odnos nas kao biološki i kulturološki određenih bića te okoline. Fokus pritom stavljam na područja svijesti i percepcije, koja uvjetuju taj odnos. Percepcija podrazumijeva ne samo mehaničke nego i kognitivne procese koji definiraju procese koje doživljavamo. Posebno me zanimaju granice percepcije, odnosno situacije u kojima ono što vidimo nije moguće jasno definirati u smislu koji poznajemo u svakodnevici. Na primjer, ponekad vidimo nešto što se pojavljuje samo

vana Franke rođena je u Zagrebu, no živi i radi u Berlinu te često sudjeluje na izložbama i projektima diljem svijeta. Važan dio svakog njezina rada jesmo mi sami jer se u svojem istraživanju bavi psihom. Franke nas želi potaknuti da umom doživimo nešto novo, da iskoračimo iz ustaljenih granica svoje stvarnosti, da osjetimo novo unutrašnje iskustvo! Zajednički nazivnik njezina rada jest šire područje granica percepcije i svijesti. Moglo bi se reći da kroz radove manipulira našim umom, no iskustva koja nam omogućuje pozitivna su, fascinantna, emotivna. Pritom Ivana često surađuje s brojnim stručnjacima − psiholozima, neuroznanstvenicima, arhitektima, matematičari-

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u našem umu, ali ne i fizički u prostoru. I to je iskustvo, a time i stvaran dio našeg života te ima određenu psihološku funkciju, primjerice halucinacije ili prividi. Ova se linija mojeg istraživanja može vidjeti u radovima We Close our Eyes and See a Flock of Birds, Seeing with Eyes Closed, Distant Feeling… Druga su linija mojeg istraživanja pojave koje su fizički prisutne u prostoru, no iako ih vidimo, ne možemo ih logički objasniti na temelju prijašnjeg iskustva. One se protive intuitivnom doživljaju, čine se nemogućima ili nestvarnima! Radovi koji obrađuju ovu temu jesu: Retreat into Darkness. Towards a Phenomenology of the Unknown, In the Faraway Past or In the

instalacija, vizija? Kako to doživljavate osobno, što im želite ispričati, poručiti? − Drago mi je da radove vidite kao pozivnice. Posjetitelji su svakako dio radova te su, kako ste to formulirali, pozvani da u njima sudjeluju. U nekim slučajevima posjetitelji zapravo nemaju izbora nego sudjelovati u radu - ako ga žele vidjeti! Primjer su radovi koji se događaju u tijelu, odnosno umu posjetioca ili u kojima je potrebno vrijeme prilagodbe da bi se nešto pojavilo. Moja je ideja ponajprije stvoriti situaciju u koju je posjetitelj uključen na način da bude potaknut nekako proširiti svoj odnos prema okolini i preispitati ulogu u tome što doživljava.

Proces realizacije većih instalacija (na primjer Room for Running Ghost ili Echoes of a Light Second) često je i tehnički vrlo složen i zahtjevan te uključuje dugoročno planiranje i sudjelovanje mnogih suradnika, od arhitekata, statičara, konzultanata. Osim toga, velik je dio procesa usmjeren na organizaciju i sigurnost − na primjer, da instalacija nikomu ne padne na glavu! Te su stvari također zahtjevne i važne, no manje zanimljive. Koji je proces osmišljanja novog eksponata, izložbe, izlaganja? Kako izrađujete svoje projekte? − Neki radovi, ili začeci radova, događaju se neovisno o konkretnim projektima koji uključuju javnost, kroz svakodnevno istraživanje određenih relevantnih tema,

faze radi se na razvoju i razradi projekta − izradi fizičkih modela, tehničkih rješenja i crteža, vizualizacija, provjera (ovisno o tipu projekta). Zatim slijedi produkcija i realizacija te konačno postav rada. U gotovo svim fazama ključnu ulogu imaju suradnici iz različitih disciplina. Koji je trenutak u radu za Vas najdraži − početak planiranja projekta, sredina, izrada i istraživanje ili kraj, kada ljudi počinju reagirati, kada publika doživi vašu poruku? Vidite li umjetnički proces kao razvoj, mijenjate li konačnu viziju dok planirate ili je konačni rad strogo definiran od početka? − Početak odnosno proces eksperimentiranja i razrada koncepta najviše me veseli

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Kakve su Vam reakcije ljudi najdraže ili najintrigantnije? Jesu li one važne u Vašem razvoju i radu, jesu li one na neki način važne za budući rad? − Sve su mi reakcije zanimljive, od njih nešto naučim. Prema tome, njihove reakcije sigurno utječu na buduće radove. Možda su mi najzanimljivije reakcije djece. Budući da nisu kulturološki formirana, otvorenija su novim iskustvima na koja reagiraju spontano i žele ih istražiti. Kod odraslih osoba kulturološki formirani načini viđenja, odnosno interpretacije viđenoga na temelju prijašnjih iskustava u velikoj mjeri definiraju njihovu interpretaciju doživljaja, što je također vrlo zanimljivo. U načelu, kroz reakcije ljudi − ja ih upoznajem.

Koji su Vam eksponati bili najkompleksniji, najteži, najintrigantniji? Smatrate li neki od radova posebnim? − U sklopu mnogih projekata radim na razvoju i produkciji novih situacija, prostora ili objekata. Radim na razvoju novih geometrija i tehničkih rješenja, to jest na izradi prototipa, što znači da u tijeku procesa nije moguće u cijelosti predvidjeti hoće li rad na kraju funkcionirati kako sam zamislila. U slučajevima kada se konačni rad izvodi ondje gdje se predstavlja, što je gotovo uvijek kad je riječ o instalacijama velikog formata, neizvjesnost u smislu estetskog rezultata prisutna je do dana prije otvorenja.

eksperimentiranje s materijalima, testiranje tehnologija... Na početku rada na konkretnim projektima, na primjer izložbe ili stalne instalacije, u kojima je kontekst definiran, on automatski postaje dio procesa. Kontekst uključuje ponajprije publiku, kulturno okruženje, socijalni okvir, mjesto i prostor. Za razvoj koncepta u nekim situacijama važne su stvari koje ne očekujete u procesu, kao što je istraživanje lokacije u širem smislu. Od položaja na Zemlji, što (zbog njezina okretanja) definira promjenu ulaska sunčeva svjetla u prostor, do godišnjeg doba i tijeka dana. Ponekad je ključna analiza arhitekture − njezina funkcija, način prolaženja kroz prostor, format prostora. Nakon razvoja koncepta i eksperimentalne

jer su u toj fazi sve mogućnosti otvorene, a tip misaonog procesa i vizualizacije kroz koji se kristaliziraju ideje najkreativniji je i najmanje opterećen praktičnim ograničenjima. Svaki sljedeći korak ima manje prostora za promjene, a u fazi produkcije promjene su često nemoguće, uglavnom iz ekonomskih i vremenskih razloga. Kad se rad jednom realizira ili izložba otvori, moj je posao završen i u emotivnom smislu nemam više ništa s njim. Reakcije ljudi svakako me zanimaju, no više neizravno. Kako gledate na suvremenu umjetnost, što ona za Vas predstavlja? − Umjetnost upućuje na drukčije mo-

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Imate li neki hobi, što radite u slobodno vrijeme? − U slobodno vrijeme konzumiram kulturu − posjećujem izložbe, konferencije, koncerte te čitam, družim se s prijateljima, a volim i izaći van plesati. Što planirate za ovu godinu? − Do sredine ožujka otvorena je izložba In the Open or in Stealth u Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti u Barceloni (MACBA), gdje sudjelujem s kompleksnom prostornom instalacijom Lovers Seeing Darkness. Ubiety Unknown. Od projekata u tijeku koji me posebno vesele mogu izdvojiti pripremu novog rada na temu percepcije prostornih dimenzija u halucinacijama, u sklopu konferencije The Science of Consciousness u Švicarskoj.

01-03 Boxed-in Infinite Polyhedron: Kocka od prozirnog akrilnog stakla je fragment poliedra koji ispunjava prostor i koji je u teoriji, odnosno po matematičkoj definiciji, beskonačan Boxed-in Infinite Polyhedron: A cube of transparent acrylic glass is a fragment of a polyhedron which fills space and which is in theory ∑ or by mathematical definition ∑ infinite 02

Multiple Skies (Walk Across Time) predstavlja fragmente neba i oblaka Multiple Skies (Walk Across Time) displays fragments of the sky and clouds

04-05 Rad Potential Degrees of Freedom ∑ Objects (Tesseract 1, 2, 3, 4), u kojemu su četiri dimenzije predstavljene kroz samo dvije dimenzije Potential Degrees of Freedom ∑ Objects (Tesseract 1, 2, 3, 4), a work in which four dimensions are presented via only two dimensions

gućnosti odnosa od onih koji su trenutno dominantni (prema nama samima, okolini, društvu, političkim pitanjima ili ulozi u širem kontekstu ekologije, svemira) tako što utječe na našu svijest i otvara mogućnost preispitivanja tih odnosa. Time omogućuje rekalibraciju odnosa prema onome što jest, odnosno što mislimo da jest, prema tome da to što jest može biti i nešto drugo nego ono što mislimo da jest! Mislim da nas također podsjeća ili suočava s emocijama i temama koje ne možemo definirati ili im ne pridajemo pažnju. Umjetnost je neophodna za društvo inače je ne bi bilo, a različita društva toga su više ili manje svjesna.

the set boundaries of our reality, to have a new inner experience. The common denominator of her works is the wider realm of perception and consciousness. It could be said that, through her work, she manipulates our minds, but the experiences that she enables us to have are positive, fascinating and emotional. In her work, Ivana often collaborates with many professionals − psychologists, neuroscientists, architects, mathematicians... Before turning her ideas into reality (at least in part), Ivana is involved in research, calculations and theories. What are your favourite areas of research, your main preoccupation in your work?

U Hrvatskoj pripremam samostalnu izložbu koja će se održati u Kabinetu grafike HAZU na jesen (povodom dobitka premije na prošlom trijenalu grafike). Istodobno pripremam novi rad s kojim ću sudjelovati na izložbi Horizonti Mirjane Vodopije u Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti u Zagrebu.

vana Franke was born in Zagreb, but lives and works in Berlin, and often participates in exhibitions and projects around the world. People are an important part of her work because in her research she focuses on the human psyche. Franke wishes to inspire us to, using our mind, experience something new, to step out of 03

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thus a real part of our life, and has a certain psychological function, such as hallucinations or illusions. This line of research can be seen in my works called We Close our Eyes and See a Flock of Birds, Seeing with Eyes Closed, Distant Feeling... The other line of my research centres on phenomena that are physically present in space, but, although we see them, we cannot logically explain them based on our previous experience. They defy our intuitive experiences, seem impossible or unreal. The works that tackle this topic are: Retreat into Darkness. Towards a Phenomenology of the Unknown, In the Faraway Past or In the Future, Years Away, Knowledge of Fireflies. I also research traces of other places and peripheral phenomena which are irrelevant

what is it that you want to tell them, communicate to them? − I’m glad that you see my works as invitations. Visitors are certainly part of my works and are, as you have said it yourself, invited to take part in them. In some of my works, they have no choice but to participate in them − if they want to see them, that is! Examples of such works are those that occur in the body, or in the mind of the visitor, or those in which adjustment time is needed for something to appear. My idea is to first create a situation in which visitors are involved in a way which encourages them to somehow expand their relationship to their surroundings and re-examine their role in what they’re experiencing.

− In my work, I’m mainly preoccupied with the relationship between us as biologically and culturally determined beings and the environment. I focus on the realms of consciousness and perception which condition this relationship. Perception implies not only mechanical, but also cognitive processes which define the processes that we experience. I’m particularly interested in the limits of perception. More specifically, in situations in which what we see cannot clearly be defined in the sense that we’re familiar with them in our everyday lives. For instance, sometimes we see something that appears only in our mind, but not physically in space. That too is an experience, and

to everyday life, and which we don’t pay attention to, and so we mostly don’t notice them (Latency (Sala Luzzatto), Multiple Skies), as well as concepts and visualisations of multidimensional spaces, and the inversion of perception towards the immaterial (Potential Degrees of Freedom, Thinking Dimensions, Boxed-in Infinite Polyhedron, Entanglement is a Fragile State). However, all these topics are often intertwined, some of my work covers more than one topic. Your work seems to be a form of invitation of sorts, inviting visitors to enter the world of light and darkness − are they part of your installations, visions? How do you feel about this personally,

Which visitor reactions are your most favourite or most intriguing ones? Are they important in your development and work? Are they in some way important for your future work? − All visitor reactions are interesting to me, I actually learn something from them. As a result, visitor reactions definitely affect my future work. Children’s reactions are perhaps the most interesting. Since they haven’t been culturally shaped yet, they’re more open to new experiences which they react to spontaneously and which they want to explore. With adults, by contrast, their culturally shaped ways of perceiving or interpreting what they see based on previous experi-

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In instances when the final work is executed at the place where it’s to be exhibited − which is almost always the case with large-scale installations − the final aesthetic result is unknown and uncertain until the very eve of the opening. The process of executing larger installations (e.g., Room for Running Ghost or Echoes of a Light Second) is often technically very complex and demanding, and involves long-term planning and the involvement of many collaborators, such as architects, structural engineers and consultants. In addition, a large part of the process focuses on organisation and safety, for example, on making sure that the installation doesn’t fall on anyone’s head. These

01 Atrakcija u kineskom hotelu LN Garden Resort jest instalacija Echoes of a Light Second Her Echoes of a Light Second installation is an attraction at the Chinese LN Garden Resort 02 Instalacija od komada pleksiglasa koji odražavaju svjetlost i vizualno iskrivljuju prostor. Dio rada je i zidni reljef Traces of Elsewhere, koji broji čak 12 metara An installation of Plexiglas pieces that reflect light and distort space. The 12-metre-long wall relief Traces of Elsewhere is also a part of this work

ences define, in large measure, their interpretation of new experiences, which is also very fascinating. In principle, it’s through their reactions that I get to know people. Which of your exhibits were the most complex, most difficult, most intriguing ones? Would you say that some of your works are special? − Within the framework of many projects, I work on the development and production of new situations, spaces or objects. I also work on the development of new geometries and technical solutions, or on the design of prototypes, which means that, during the process, it’s impossible to precisely predict whether the work will ultimately work the way I have initially imagined.

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To be able to develop a concept in some situations, things you wouldn’t normally expect to be important in the process do become exactly that, things such as exploring the location in a broader sense. From its position on Earth, which (due to Earth’s rotation) sets the time when sunlight enters the space, to which season it is and the course of day. Sometimes, taking a closer look at the architecture of a certain location is crucial − its function, the way you pass through that space, the format of the space. Once I’ve developed and tested the concept, I start working on developing and elaborating the project − making physical models, technical solutions and drawings, visualisations, testing (depending on

things are also very demanding and important, but less interesting. What is the process of designing new exhibits and exhibitions like? How do you produce your projects? − Some works or the beginnings of works happen independently of concrete projects involving the public, through my daily researching certain relevant topics, my experimenting with materials, testing technologies... At the beginning of concrete projects, such as an exhibition or a permanent installation in which the context is defined, it automatically becomes part of the process. The context includes, first and foremost, the audience, the cultural environment, the social framework, the place and space.

the type of project). After that, it’s time to produce and execute the work, and finally to mount it. In almost all these stages, associates from different disciplines play a key role. Which moment in your work is your most favourite one − the beginning of project planning, its middle, research and production or its end, when people start reacting to it, when the audience gets your message? Do you see the artistic process as a development? Do you change your final vision while planning or is your final work strictly defined from the very beginning? − I love the initial stage the most, the process of experimenting with and elabo-

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rating the concept, because at this stage all possibilities are open, and the thought processes and visualisations through which ideas are crystallised are the most creative and the least burdened with practical limitations. Each following stage has less room for change, and in the production stage changes are often impossible, mainly for financial reasons and lack of time. When the work is produced or the exhibition opens, my job is done and, emotionally speaking, I have nothing to do with it anymore. I’m interested in people’s reactions, but more so indirectly. How do you see contemporary art, what does it represent for you?

Art is necessary for society, otherwise art wouldn’t exist, and different societies are aware of this to different degrees. Do you have a hobby, what do you do in your spare time? − In my spare time, I consume culture − I visit exhibitions, conferences, concerts, I also read, hang out with friends, and I love going out to dance. What have you been planning for this year? − I’m exhibiting a complex spatial installation called Lovers Seeing Darkness. Ubiety Unknown in the In the Open or in Stealth exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Barcelona (MACBA). This exhibition closes in mid-March.

CMY

01 Rad Entanglement is a Fragile State predstavljen je u crkvenom prostoru prema pravilu zlatnog reza Entanglement is a Fragile State was exhibited in the space of a church following the golden ratio principle 02 Rad Entanglement is a Fragile State mijenja izgled, doživljaj i tumačenje prostora Entanglement is a Fragile State changes the look, experience and interpretation of space 03 Rad Years Away predstavlja zrake svjetlosti koje kao da plutaju u inače tamnoj prostoriji Years Away displays rays of light which seem to be floating in an otherwise dark room

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− Art stimulates us to think about the possibility of there being relationships which are different from those that are currently dominant (to ourselves, the environment, society, political issues or our role in the wider context of ecology, the universe) by affecting our consciousness and opening up the possibility of re-examining these relationships. This allows us to recalibrate our relationship to what exists, or what we think exists, so that what exists can be something other than what we think exists. I think it also reminds us or confronts us with emotions and topics which we can’t define or which we pay no attention to.

From ongoing projects that I’m particularly looking forward to, I’d like to single out preparations of a new work on the perception of spatial dimensions in hallucinations, and this within the framework of The Science of Consciousness conference in Switzerland. In Croatia, I’ve been working on a solo exhibition to be held at the Graphic Art Cabinet of the Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts this autumn (and this because my work was awarded at the last Triennial of Graphic Art). I’ve also been preparing a new work with which I’ll participate in Mirjana Vodopija’s Horizons exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb.

Fotografije/Photos: Ivana Franke Studio, Ana Opalic, LN Group, Sandra Aracic, Maria del Pilar Garcia Ayensa

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POLUOTOCI PENINSULAS

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Piše/By _ Davorka Vukov Colić Fotografije/Photos _ Alan Grubelić

Nakon Istre drugi po veličini hrvatski poluotok, Pelješac je carstvo maestrala, plavca malog, maslina i soli, Mediterana kakav je bio i djelića Mediterana kakav će biti izgradnjom mosta koji će povezati kopneni dio s krajnjim jugom Lijepe Naše.

Plaža Zamošće, Kučište Zamošće Beach, Kučište

Pelješac, Croatia’s second largest peninsula after Istria, is an empire of the mistral, the Plavac Mali variety of grape, olive groves and salt, the Mediterranean as it once was and a tiny part of the Mediterranean as it will be once a bridge is built connecting mainland Croatia with its southernmost end. CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2019

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01-03 Viganj, plaža Ponta. Tajna privlačnosti tog područja za surfere i kitesurfere jest u ljetnom vjetru maestralu Viganj, Ponta Beach. What makes this location attractive to surfers and kitesurfers is the summer mistral

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01-02 Šetalište kneza Domagoja, Orebić Duke Domagoj’s Promenade, Orebić 03

Konoba Barsa, Lovište Barsa Tavern, Lovište

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Samostan i muzej Gospe od AnÄ&#x2018;ela Monastery and Museum of Our Lady of Angels

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01 Samostan i muzej Gospe od Anđela (detalj) Monastery and Museum of Our Lady of Angels (a detail) 02 Otok Vela Sestrica, pogled iz Orebića The Island of Vela Sestrica, a view from Orebić 03 Vidikovac kod samostana Gospe od Anđela The lookout point near the Monastery of Our Lady of Angels

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01-03 Franjevački samostan Gospe of Anđela izgrađen potkraj 16. stoljeća u gotičko-renesansnom stilu, tvori cjelinu s crkvom kojom dominira toranj sa zvonikom The Franciscan Monastery of Our Lady of Angels, built at the end of the 16th century in the Gothic-Renaissance style, forms a whole with a church dominated by a bell tower 04

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Eksponati muzeja u sklopu samostana Museum exhibits in the monastery

ostavljanje prvog testnog pilota, goleme čelične cijevi probijene u morsko dno uz obalu obližnje Komarne, turističkoga mjestašca tik uz granicu Hrvatske s Bosnom i Hercegovinom, Kinezi su u siječnju proslavili vatrometom. Bio je to početak gradnje dugo planiranoga Pelješkog mosta koju je Hrvatska povjerila kineskome poduzeću China Road and Bridge Corporation. Most dugačak 2,4 kilometra, visok 55 metara i s četiri prometna traka, od 2022. spajat će kopno s poluotokom Pelješcem preko Malostonskog zaljeva te neprekinutom prometnicom povezivati krajnji jug Hrvatske s ostatkom zemlje. Nakon Istre drugi po veličini hrvatski poluotok, Pelješac je i do sada spajao jug s kopnom (ili otok Korčulu s krajnjim jugom), no morali ste putovati trajektom da premostite more, a odskora će sve biti drukčije. Most i brza cesta kroz kralješnicu poluotoka zacijelo će promijeniti život toga carstva vinograda, maslinika, malih turističkih oaza i − surfera. Za vrijeme davnih putovanja s otočića kamenolomaca Vrnika, priljubljenoga uz moćnu Korčulu, do Dubrovnika, kako smo ljeti znali odlaziti na Dubrovačke ljetne igre, putovanje preko Pelješca bilo je prava mala avantura. Najprije s Vrnika čamcem na Korčulu. Zatim uskom cestom do trajektnog terminala Dominče. Potom petnaest minuta plovidbe trajektom kroz Pelješki kanal do Orebića. Iz Orebića autobusom do Stona gotovo cijelom dužinom od 77 kilometara koliko je dugačak Pelješac te od Stona kopnenom cestom do konačnog odredišta.

Za vrućih ljetnih dana to kratko putovanje od Dominča do Orebića bivalo bi zbog maestrala nezaboravna zračna kupka. Morem bi plovile brodice, ali pogled u smjeru peljeških mjestašaca Kučišta i Vignja nije bio tako spektakularan kao danas. Zbog mora šarenih jedara neumornih surfera sada je to vatromet uzbibanih boja, nemirno cvijeće na plavoj morskoj livadi, kako to u reportažama poetično opisuju turistički novinari, dok kitesurferi šaraju nebom iznad vas. U međuvremenu je Viganj postao svjetski poznato središte ljubitelja morske Formule 1, kako surfanje nazivaju zbog brzine i adrenalina koji eksplodira svaki put kada se osovite na dasci, ulovite vjetar i zajašite valove. Tajna privlačnosti područja oko Vignja i Kučišta za surfere i kitesurfere jest ljetni vjetar maestral, najjači u srpnju i kolovozu. Vjetar ne završava na poluotoku − valjda i zbog Svetog Ilije, gore visoke 961 metar, zvane i Zmijino brdo − nego se žestoko probija Pelješkim kanalom uzanim poput lijevka, dosežući dvostruko veću brzinu nego u ostalom dijelu Jadrana, neki kažu i Mediterana. Neumoran je cijeloga dana, dopodne blag, idealan za početnike, poslijepodne izazov za iskusne, posebno ako povremeno zapuše jači maeštralun, koji zna dosegnuti osam bofora, zbog čega su Viganj i Kučišta uvršteni u najprivlačnija surferska odredišta u Hrvatskoj, pa i u Europi. Od svih mjesta za lansiranje najpopularnija je isturena šljunčana plaža Sveti Liberan između Vignja i Kučišta, s kapelicom posvećenom omiljenome svecu, ljeti okruženoj gomilom šarene opreme za surfanje.

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01-02 Podobuče je poznato po uzgoju vinove loze i proizvodnji vrhunskih peljeških vina Podobuče is famous for its cultivation of vine and the production of top-quality Pelješac wines 03-04 Orebić

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Zimi mjestašce s jedva tri stotine stanovnika, Viganj se ljeti zajedno s Kučištem pretvara u napučenu surfersku republiku. Iako se najbolje surfa ljeti, najhrabriji kao pogonsko gorivo tijekom ostatka godine koriste buru, jugo, levant i tramontanu, pa nije čudo što je ovdje 1989. održano Svjetsko prvenstvo u surfanju na dasci, godinu dana kasnije i Europsko prvenstvo, a Viganj je u toj disciplini godinama domaćin Otvorenog prvenstva Hrvatske. Maestral također nazivaju prijateljem moreplovaca. Gradić čuvenih kapetana, Orebić, zato nije slučajno nastao na tom dijelu Pelješca. Osnovala ga je 1584. istoimena obitelj pomorskih kapetana koji su ovdje obnovili stari kaštel i utemeljili grad. Od 17. stoljeća pelješki su jedrenjaci došli na glas kao važan dio trgovačke mornarice Dubrovačke Republike, a u drugoj polovici 19. stoljeća Orebić je dobio i brodogradilište. Bilo je to zlatno doba jedrenjaka. No ploveći širom svijeta, kapetani iz toga kraja znali su majstorski krotiti vjetar, ali nisu se znali preusmjeriti na parobrode. Od slavne pomorske prošlosti ostale su tek brojne kapetanske palače usred raskošnih vrtova s biljkama iz svih krajeva svijeta, sedam gradskih neorenesansnih fontana, pomorski muzej, impresivni ljetnikovac kapetanske obitelji Mimbelli,

po kojoj je nazvan glavni gradski trg, a zidove i stropove ljetnikovca talijanski su majstori oslikali posebnom tehnikom miješajući pigment s četiri milijuna žumanaca. O povijesti obitelji Mimbelli također svjedoči mauzolej na gradskome groblju, okružen mauzolejima drugih viđenih kapetanskih obitelji. Ostao je također franjevački samostan s crkvom Gospe od Anđela, smješten 150 metara ponad grada. Odlazeći na plovidbu ili vraćajući se kući, kapetani bi sirenom pozdravljali Gospu od Anđela u znak zaštite ili zahvale, a franjevci bi odgovarali zvonjavom s crkvenoga zvonika. Maestral nazivaju i dobrim vjetrom jer ublažava ljetnu vrelinu. Vinogradari ga posebno vole zato što rashlađuje lozu, posebno onu na južnim padinama izloženu dugotrajnom suncu, te priječi razvoj bolesti. Od Orebića do Stona, preko Janjine i Trpnja, na Pelješcu se stoga stoljećima uzgajala loza i, dakako, maslina. Surovi dalmatinski krš, maestral i odbljesak sunca od mora i kamena, što stvara trostruko bolje uvjete za koncentraciju šećera u grožđu nego na drugim mjestima, idealna su kombinacija za proizvodnju moćnog plavca. Tom je sortom zasađeno devedeset posto pelješkoga vinogorja, jednog od najvećih u Hrvatskoj, gdje plavac mali posebno dobro

uspijeva na položajima Dingač i Postup, čije je kontrolirano zemljopisno podrijetlo zaštićeno prije pola stoljeća. Po njima su nazvana vrhunska vina, Dingač, koji zovu i kraljem među crnim vinima, te Postup, koji nazivaju princem u sjeni Dingača. Gledajući radnike kako na strminama nerijetko ručno obrađuju lozu jer se do nje ne može doći strojevima, imate dojam da ste upali u scenu nekoga starog crnobijelog filma iz vremena kada nije bilo jurnjave i pametnih telefona. Međutim, nove i novoobnovljene vinarije suvremeno su opremljene, otvorene turistima, a neki od vinara uz podrume su otvorili i luksuzne vile za smještaj gostiju koji u srcu plavca žele uz dobru kapljicu kušati tradicionalni dalmatinski zalogaj. No nisu sve pelješke vinarije na kopnu. Jedna se smjestila na morskome dnu. Otvorena prije dvije godine, prva hrvatska podvodna vinarija Edivo nudi vina čuvana do 700 dana u amforama ili u bocama, u brodici potopljenoj godinama u Malostonskome zaljevu u blizini obalnoga mjestašca Drače, na pola puta između Orebića i Stona. Kažu da bukeu plavca dobivenog iz vinograda na položaju Mili doprinosi i milovanje vjetra koji dolazi iz smjera stonske solane. Solana je nastarija u Europi, a tehnologija proizvodnje nije se promijenila od antičkih vremena. Njihova sol sada se uglavnom koristi u industrijske svrhe, ali nekada je, dragocjena poput zlata, bila jedan od najvažnijih izvoznih aduta Dubrovačke Republike. Toliko važna da su zbog nje, a i zbog zaštite Pelješca, koji su u posjed dobili 1334., Dubrovčani odlučili

podignuti veličanstveni obrambeni sustav. Bio je to najveći fortifikacijsko-urbanistički pothvat ondašnje Europe, prema čemu je današnja gradnja Pelješkog mosta mačji kašalj. U prvoj fazi podignuta su dva utvrđena gradića, Ston na južnome i Mali Ston na sjevernome dijelu pelješke prevlake, s namjerom da se u njih dosele čuvari granice i radnici u solanama. U drugoj fazi gradići su povezani dvostrukim Velikim zidom, dugačkim 5,5 kilometara i najdužim očuvanim zidom u Europi. Pri ulazu na poluotok Pelješac ili na izlasku s Pelješca na kopno, nijedan pravi šmeker neće zaobići Mali Ston. Razlog su uzgajališta kamenica. Nismo ga zaobilazili ni mi, posebno u ona davna vremena kada bismo uz čašu plavca čekali da ih uzgajivači pred nama izvade iz mora, otvore ih i ponude uz kap domaćeg

limuna. Pelješac se stoga ne pamti samo zbog jahanja valova nego i zbog opojnog plavca, kao i delikatnog okusa jedinstvene školjke koja u sebi nosi sve okuse i mirise mora.

n January this year, the Chinese celebrated with fireworks the installation of the first test pile, a giant steel post rammed into the seabed along the coastline of the nearby village of Komarna, a tourist resort close to the border of Croatia with Bosnia and Herzegovina. It marked the beginning of construction of the long-awaited Pelješac Bridge, which Croatia entrusted to the Chinese China Road and Bridge Corporation. This 2.4-kilometre long, 55-metre high and 4-lane bridge will, as of 2022, connect mainland Croatia with the Peninsula of Pelješac across the Bay of Mali Ston, or the southernmost end of Croatia with the rest of the country. Croatia’s second largest peninsula after Istria, the Peninsula of Pelješac is the one that has connected the south of Croatia with its mainland (or the Island of Korčula with Croatia’s southernmost end). However, you had to travel by ferry to bridge the sea. This is about to change soon. The bridge and an expressway through the spine of the peninsula will surely change the life of this empire of vineyards, olive groves, small tourist oases and − surfers. During journeys of long ago from the island of quarrymen, Vrnik, nestled next to the mighty Island of Korčula, to Dubrovnik − as we used to go to the Dubrovnik Summer Festival − the journey through Pelješac was a true little adventure. First you had

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to get from Vrnik to Korčula by boat, then you had to reach the Dominče Ferry Port along a narrow road, then you took a fifteen-minute ferry ride through the Pelješac Channel to Orebić, and then a bus from Orebić to Ston across almost the entire length of Pelješac (77 kilometres, to be precise), and then finally you took an overland road from Ston to your final destination. During hot summer days, this short trip from Dominče Ferry Port to Orebić used to be, thanks to the mistral, a north-westerly wind − an unforgettable air bath. You’d see boats sailing, but the view of the villages of Kučište and Viganj on Pelješac wasn’t as spectacular as it is today. Because of a sea of tireless surfers and their colourful sails, the view now resembles fireworks of heaving colours, restless flowers on a blue sea meadow, as it’s often poetically described by tourist journalists in their reports, while kitesurfers pattern the sky above. In the meantime, Viganj has become a world-renowned hub for marine Formula 1 lovers, which is what surfing is called thanks to the speed and adrenaline that explode every time you stand up on a surfboard, catch the wind and ride a wave. The secret of the attraction of the region around Viganj and Kučište for surfers and kitesurfers is the summer mistral wind, which is the strongest in July and August. The wind doesn’t quieten across the peninsula − probably because of St. Elias, a 961-metre high mount, also called Snake Hill by the locals − but rather blows ferociously through the Pelješac Channel, which is as narrow as a funnel, reaching

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twice the speed of winds blowing in other parts of the Adriatic, some say even the entire Mediterranean. It’s relentless throughout the day, mild until noon, and ideal for beginners. In the afternoon, however, it turns into a challenge even for experienced surfers, particularly if, on occasion, it becomes a stronger mistral, maeštralun, reaching Beaufort force 8 at times, which is why Viganj and Kučište are amongst the most attractive surfer destinations in Croatia and even Europe. Of all the launch sites, the most popular is the pebble Cape of Sveti Liberan between Viganj and Kučište, with a chapel consecrated to a much loved saint, which is surrounded by a sea of colourful surfing equipment in summer. During the winter months a village of as little as three hundred residents, Viganj

Vinarija Saints Hills Saints Hills winery

− together with Kučište − turns into a crowded surfer republic in summer. Although summer is the best surfing season, the bravest also use the northerly bora, the southerly wind, the gentle easterly levanter, and the cold and dry northerly tramontane as fuel during the rest of the year. So it comes as no surprise that in 1989 Viganj hosted a world surfing championship, a year later the European one, and that it’s been hosting the Croatian Open Windsurfing Championship for years. The mistral is also called the friend of sailors. It’s not by accident that Orebić, a town of famous captains, was founded in this part of the Peninsula of Pelješac. It was founded in 1584 by the Orebić family of sea captains who had renovated an old castle here and established the town of Orebić. In the 17th century, the sailing

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ships of Pelješac became widely regarded as an important part of the merchant fleet of the Republic of Dubrovnik, and in the second half of the 19th century a shipyard was also built in Orebić. This was the golden age of sailing ships. Sailing around the world, captains coming from this region knew how to masterfully tame the winds, but didn’t know how to redirect their knowledge to steamships. What’s been left behind this glorious maritime past are only a number of captain’s palaces in the midst of lavish gardens with plants from all over the world, the town’s seven neo-Renaissance fountains, a maritime museum, and the impressive summer mansion of the Mimbelli family of captains, which the main town square was named after, and whose walls and ceilings were frescoed by Italian masters using a special technique that mixes pigment with egg yolks − four million egg yolks, to be precise. A mausoleum in the town cemetery, surrounded by the mausoleums of other famous families of captains, also bears witness to the history of the Mimbelli family. What’s also left is a Franciscan

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monastery with the Church of Our Lady of Angels, located 150 metres above town. Whether setting sail or returning home, sea captains used to greet Our Lady of Angels by blowing their ship horn in gratitude for her protection, and the Franciscans would respond by ringing the church bell tower. The mistral is also called the good wind because it alleviates the summer heat. It’s loved by vine growers in particular because it cools the vine, especially the grapevine growing on the southern slopes exposed to a lot of sunshine, and because it prevents the development of grapevine diseases. This is why vine − and olive trees, of course − have for centuries been grown on Pelješac, from Orebić to Ston, through Janjina and Trpanj. Rugged Dalmatian karst, the mistral and the reflection of sunlight off the sea and stone − creating conditions for the concentration of sugar in grapes which are three times better than in other localities − are an ideal combination for the production of the mighty Plavac Mali variety of grape. Plavac Mali is grown in over ninety percent of vineyards on Pelješac, one of the largest

grape-growing regions in Croatia, where the variety grows incredibly well in the localities or terroirs of Dingač and Postup, which were protected with a Controlled Designation of Origin label half a century ago. Two top-quality wines were named after the localities − Dingač, also called the king amongst red wines, and Postup, also called the prince in the shadow of Dingač. Watching the workers working on the steep slopes of the vineyards because they often can’t be reached by heavier machinery, you get the impression that you’ve just entered the scene of an old black-andwhite movie from a time without the rat race and smart phones. However, some wineries have been completely refurbished, now equipped with modern equipment, and open to tourists, with some of the winegrowers having erected, adjacent to their wine cellars, luxurious villas for the accommodation of guests who’re looking to savour − besides fine wines at the very heart of the Plavac Mali growing region − traditional Dalmatian food too. However, not all of Pelješac’s wineries are on land. One is located at the bottom of

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the sea. Opened two years ago, the first Croatian underwater winery, Edivo, offers wines aged for a period of up to 700 days in amphorae or bottles in a sunken boat in the Bay of Mali Ston near the coastal village of Drače, halfway between Orebić and Ston. They say that the bouquet of Plavac Mali grown in vineyards at the locality of Mili is contributed to by the wind blowing from the direction of the Ston Saltworks caressing the grapes gently. The Ston Saltworks is the oldest saltworks in Europe, with the production technology not having changed since ancient times. The salt they produce is now mostly used for industrial purposes, although it once used to be − regarded as precious as gold − one of the main exports of the Republic of Dubrovnik. Just how important it once was is evidenced by the fact that because of it − as well as for the protection of Pelješac, which the republic entered into possession of in 1334 − the inhabitants of Dubrovnik decided to erect a magnificent defence system. It was the biggest urban fortification

project of then Europe, compared to which today’s construction of the Pelješac Bridge is a piece of cake. In stage one, two fortified towns were built − Ston on the southern and Mali Ston on the northern part of the Pelješac isthmus. They were to be populated by border guards and saltworks workers. In stage two, the two townlets were connected with a double, 5.5-kilometre-long Great Wall, the longest preserved wall in Europe. Either getting onto or leaving the Peninsula of Pelješac, no connoisseur should bypass Mali Ston. Oyster farms are the reason why. We didn’t bypass it either, not in those old days when we used to wait for the oyster farmers to harvest the oysters from the sea before our very eyes, shuck and serve them with a drop of their own lemon juice, complemented by a glass of Plavac Mali. This is why Pelješac is remembered not only because of the riding of the waves, but also because of its sumptuous Plavac Mali wine and the delicate taste of a unique shell carrying all the flavours and smells of the sea.

01 Lovište, čar i romantika ljetne noći, pogled na Mliječnu stazu Lovište, the charm of a romantic summer night, a view of the Milky Way 02 Vinarija Saints Hills Saints Hills winery

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REPORT

Fotografije/Photos: Arhiva TZO Orebić/ Orebić TB Archives

Piše/By _ Željka Kunštek/Tip Travel

edaleko od svjetskog bisera Dubrovnika, a nasuprot staroga grada Korčule, otoka slavnoga istraživača Marka Pola, još je jedan dragulj južne Hrvatske − gradić Orebić, smješten na jugozapadnom dijelu poluotoka Pelješca, srce Pelješke rivijere te drevno utočište kapetana i pomoraca. Danas je to raj za ljubitelje krajolika, aktivnog odmora, obitelji s djecom, gurmane i istinske hedoniste, za sve one koji priželjkuju odmor u očuvanom i mirnom kutku Mediterana, daleko od užurbanosti gradova. Ondje ćete dane provoditi uz biserne prirodne plaže koje zapljuskuje tirkizno i kristalno čisto more po kojemu jedre brojni

surferi loveći vjetar maestral. Kulturne poslastice i ljepote netaknute prirode možete istraživati opuštenom šetnjom, na biciklu uz stare kapetanske vile okružene egzotičnim vrtovima ili ronjenjem iz kajaka ili čamca. Oni odvažniji pješice će ili na biciklu krenuti u osvajanje sv. Ilije, najvišega vrha Pelješca (961 m), na kojemu će biti nagrađeni iznimnim pogledom na Pelješki kanal, beskrajne vinograde i maslinike te na otoke Korčulu, Mljet i Lastovo, pa čak i na Italiju. Ipak, nitko nije posjetio Orebić a da nije bio na vidikovcu kod samostana i crkve Gospe od Anđela (150 m), s kojeg se pruža jedan od najljepših pogleda na svijetu, pogled na Pelješki kanal i Korčulu. U Orebiću svakako zavirite i u Pomorski muzej, čije su brojne izloške donirali pomorci, brižno ih prikupljajući desetljećima na svojim putovanjima svjetskim morima. Kako biste domaćine, njihovu kulturu i stil života još bolje upoznali, sjednite za pelješki stol u nekoj od konoba ili restorana. Riblja jela i maštovito pripremljeni morski specijaliteti ili ukusna janjetina uz vrhunsko pelješko vino Dingač, koji je u svijetu proslavio taj kraj, zasigurno će upotpuniti doživljaj.

ot far from Dubrovnik, the world-famous pearl of the Adriatic, and just opposite Korčula’s Old Town, the island home of the famous explorer Marco Polo, there is another southern Croatian jewel − the town of Orebić, in the south-west of Pelješac Peninsula. It is the heart of the Pelješac Riviera and an ancient seaport. Today, it is

a paradise for nature-lovers and those who enjoy active holidays, families with children, gourmets and pleasure-seekers, who want to spend time in a preserved, peaceful corner of the Mediterranean, far from the bustle of the city. Here you can pass your days on natural white beaches washed by the turquoise, crystal sea, watching windsurfers catching the maestral wind. You can explore its cultural treasures and pristine natural beauties, walking or cycling past the captains’ former villas and their exotic gardens, or scuba-diving from a kayak or a boat. More adventurous visitors will try to scale St. Elijah’s Peak (961 m), the highest on Pelješac, on foot or by bike, where they will be rewarded with an exceptional view of the Pelješac Channel, vineyards and olive orchards as far as the eye can see, and the islands of Korčula, Mljet and Lastovo in the distance - even the coast of Italy. Nobody visits Orebić without going to the viewpoint near the monastery and Church of Our Lady of Angels (150 m), from where they have a wonderful view of Pelješac Channel and the island of Korčula. Be sure to visit the Maritime Museum in Orebić, where many exhibits were donated by sailors who collected them during their voyages throughout the world. Get to know the locals, their culture and lifestyle better, by eating in a Pelješac tavern or restaurant. There are fish dishes and imaginatively prepared seafood specialties, or delicious lamb served with Dingač, the Pelješac wine that has made the region famous all over the world. A perfect experience.

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kvarner region tourist board 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2, t +385 (0)51 272 988, f +385 (0)51 272 909, e kvarner@kvarner.hr “kvarner info - adriatic gate”, t +385 (0)51 623 333, 628 888, F +385 (0)51 623 334, e info@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr

Visit KVARNER Croatia’s best kept secret

Diversity is beautiful

VRHUNSKI VINSKI HOTELI TOP-QUALITY WINE HOTELS

Poloæaj DingaË na Peljeπcu The DingaË terroir on Peljeπac

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GASTRO Predstavljamo četiri vrhunska obiteljska hotela koji upotpunjuju rad već itekako poznatih vinarija iz kojih su izrasli. Svaki je od njih poseban na svoj način, a zajedno grade hrvatski doživljaj iznimne kvalitete. We’re presenting four first-rate family hotels which have been complementing the work of already very well-known wineries that they grew out of. Each is unique in its own way, and together they offer a Croatian experience of exceptional quality.

ndustrijalci Ernest Tolj i Mladen Rožanić te odvjetnik Miroslav Plišo prije petnaestak su godina, posve neovisno jedan od drugoga, pokrenuli vlastite vinarije. Željeli su od promatrača postati igrači. Tako su zaradu iz drugih sektora uložili u stvaranje vrhunskih vinskih proizvoda. Danas nadograđuju svoju priču luksuznim boutique hotelima koji pružaju cjelovito iskustvo. Njih trojicu nadopunjuje još i obitelj Šuljić iz Novalje s Paga, koji jedini imaju autentično vinsko i ugostiteljsko rodoslovlje i od svoje se okoline ističu visokim ambicijama te, što je još važnije, kvalitetnim ispunjavanjem očekivanja. Ovo je priča o njima. O četiri vrhunska obiteljska vinska hotela, koji su nadograđeni uz vrhunske vinarije.

ndustrialists Ernest Tolj and Mladen Rožanić, and lawyer Miroslav Plišo started their own wineries some fifteen years ago completely independently of each other. What they wanted was to change their role as observers and become players. In turn, they invested the profit they made in other sectors in the creation of premium quality wine products. Today, they’ve expanded their individual stories with luxury boutique hotels that provide a complete, rounded-off experience. Besides the three, there’s also the Šuljić family from Novalja on the Island of Pag, of a winemakers’ and caterers’ lineage. They stand out with their great ambitions and, more importantly, with their quality fulfilment of expectations. This is a story about them, about four top-quality family-run wine hotels, which have been built adjacent to top wineries.

Piše/By _ Ozren Kanceljak Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

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BOŠKINAC Otok Pag autentična je hrvatska gastronomska destinacija zbog poznatih i nagrađivanih sireva, kao i specifične paške janjetine, koja se ističe bogatstvom aroma zahvaljujući eteričnim aromama bilja u ovčjoj ispaši. Usto, gradić Novalja na Pagu simbol je party turizma zbog poznate plaže Zrće, na kojoj se cijeloga ljeta izmjenjuju razni festivali elektronske glazbe. No otok Pag i Novalja dom su i jednomu od najdugovječnijih i najboljih ekskluzivnih vinskih hotela i fine dining restorana u cijeloj Hrvatskoj: Boškincu. Supružnici Mirela i Boris Šuljić, ojačani chefom Matijom Bregešom, iz godine u godinu podižu razinu kvalitete hotela i restorana te ističu: − Naš hotel poseban je zbog ruralnog ambijenta u kojemu je smješten, mirisa bilja koje osjetite kada se penjete na naš brežuljak. Vrhunski restoran, s preporukom Michelina i tri toquea vodiča Gault Milleau, njeguje kreativnu otočku kuhinju u kojoj reinterpretiramo tradicijska jela od

namirnica iz svojeg okruženja. U konobi s rudimentarnijom ponudom mogu se iskušati sjajna tradicijska jela pripravljena na ognjištu. Vinarija je poseban forte Boškinca. Vina koja proizvedemo potječu iz vinograda nasuprot našem hotelu i sadrže milenijsku mineralnost i zasoljenost našega kamenog otoka, u njima osjetimo snagu i divljinu juga, ali i eleganciju i mir Mediterana. Hotel ujesen planiraju i dodatno proširiti za čak 31 novu sobu s pet zvjezdica, čime bi omogućili zadovoljavanje sve većih zahtjeva za visokokvalitetnim vinskim doživljajima turista koji sve više dolaze iz SAD−a i Australije, ali i europskih gostiju iz Slovenije, Italije, Austrije te sve češće iz Poljske, Češke, Francuske, Nizozemske, Belgije i Njemačke. − Za postizanje ambicioznih ciljeva − objašnjava Boris − nužno je da gosti osjećaju pozitivan duh koji vlada u kući i prisutan je u svemu čime se bavimo. U vinu, restoranu i hotelu. 02

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01 Konoba hotela i vinarije Boπkinac The tavern of the Boπkinac hotel and winery 02 Boris ©uljiÊ, Boπkinac 03 Vinski podrum Boπkinac The Boπkinac wine cellar 04 Hotel Boπkinac kraj Stare Novalje, otok Pag The Boπkinac hotel near Stara Novalja, Island of Pag

The Island of Pag is a unique Croatian gastronomic destination thanks to its famous and award-winning cheeses, and its distinct Pag lamb, which stands out with its rich flavour thanks to the aromatic herbs that the sheep pasture. In addition, the town of Novalja on Pag is a symbol of party tourism,

and this thanks to the famous Zrće Beach, where various electronic music festivals take place throughout summer. However, the Island of Pag and Novalja are also home to one of the most long-lived and best wine hotels and fine dining restaurants in the whole of Croatia − Boškinac. Spouses Mirela and Boris Šuljić, assisted by chef Matija Bregeš, have been raising the level of quality of their hotel and restaurant year after year, highlighting the following: − What makes our hotel special is the rural ambience that it’s located in, the scent of the plants you smell when climbing up our hill. Ours is a top-quality, Michelin-recommended restaurant, awarded three toques by the Gault&Millau restaurant guide. We foster a creative island cuisine, reinterpreting traditional dishes made from ingredients grown in our surroundings. Our tavern offers more basic and really great traditional dishes cooked on an open-fire stove. The winery is Boškinac’s forte. The wines we produce come from the vineyard across from our hotel and carry the scent of the millennial mineralness and salinity of our stone island, the strength and the wilderness of the south, but also the elegance and the peace of the Mediterranean. They’re planning to enlarge the hotel by autumn with as many as 31 new five-star rooms, which will enable them to meet the ever increasing demand for high-quality wine tasting experiences of an increasing number of tourists from the USA and Australia, as well as from European countries, such as Slovenia, Italy, Austria, Poland, the Czech Republic, France, the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany. − Achieving ambitious goals − Boris explains − requires that our guests feel the positive spirit that pervades the house and is present in everything we do. In the wine, the restaurant and the hotel.

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01 Kompleks Meneghetti pored Bala The Meneghetti complex near Bale 02 Vina Meneghetti Meneghetti wines 03 Miroslav PliĹĄo: Trebamo njegovati lokalno Miroslav PliĹĄo: We need to nurture local things

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MENEGHETTI Godine 2001. odvjetnik Miroslav Plišo zasadio je prve nasade maslina, da bi godinu kasnije krenuo u podizanje vlastitih vinograda. Pliši i enologu Damiru Boseku prije desetak se godina kao vinski konzultant pridružio Walter Filiputti, a prije gotovo pet godina Suzana Vrtičević Tica kao menadžerica hotela. A danas hotel Meneghetti u blizini gradića Bale svojim tipičnim istarskim stilom gradnje te suvremenim interijerom pruža doživljaj čarobne prirodne lokacije te jedinstvenu gurmansku ponudu hrane i vina proizvedenih na toj lokaciji. Maslinova ulja Meneghetti dobitnici su najvećih svjetskih priznanja za kvalitetu. Njihova velika crvena i bijela vina postala su hrvatski sinonim za izvrsnost, a razvoj hotelskog poslovanja novi je, najveći izazov. Kako kaže Plišo, osnovno je pitanje zašto bi netko došao u Meneghetti umjesto u Toskanu i pio naš merlot umjesto talijanskoga ili slovenskoga? Ako odgovorimo na ta pitanja, znat ćemo kamo idemo. Trebamo njegovati lokalno i ono što je kod nas dobro, i to nas čini drugačijima i boljima. Ekosustav unutar kojega djeluje Meneghetti i svi ostali hrvatski vinski hoteli izazovni su: − Nedavno sam čuo da Italija od vinskog turizma godišnje uprihoduje 6 milijardi dolara − kaže Plišo i nastavlja − ako je i pola, i to je puno. Logično je da hrvatski vinari kreću tim putem. To je najbolji način za predstavljanje vlastita proizvoda. Vino ne ide bez restorana, hotela i sl.

To je najbolji način da vinari izvezu svoj proizvod na kućnom pragu. No taj put nije jednostavan ni kratak. Na pitanje kako vidi daljnji razvoj odgovara: − Na istom pravcu kao i do sada. S druge strane, ponuda restorana Meneghetti nesebična je pa tako imamo sedamdesetak etiketa uglavnom hrvatskih vina i nešto iz okolnih država, ali sve iz Europe. Od toga se proda devedesetak posto vina Meneghetti te tek desetak posto ostalih. No unatoč činjenici da stranac u Hrvatskoj želi piti hrvatska vina, odlučili smo broj vina ubrzo podignut na nekoliko stotina, ali i pojačati domaća te uvesti neke svjetske prvake na listu. To podiže kvalitetu i stvara osjećaj nesebičnosti.

Arhiva obitelji Plišo/Plišo family photo album

In 2001, lawyer Miroslav Plišo planted his first olive trees and a year later he started setting up his own vineyard. Plišo and enologist Damir Bosek’s team was first expanded by wine consultant Walter Filiputti some ten years ago, and then by hotel manager Suzana Vrtičević Tica nearly five years ago. Thanks to its typically Istrian style of architecture and contemporary interior, today the Meneghetti Wine Hotel and Winery near the townlet of Bale offers the experience of a magical natural location, and a unique gourmet offer of food and wine produced on-site. The Meneghetti olive oils have won some of the highest international awards for quality. Their premium red and white wines have become a Croatian synonym for excellence,

and the development of the hotel business is their latest and biggest challenge. As Plišo says, the basic question is why someone would come to Meneghetti instead of Tuscany. Why would someone drink a Croatian merlot, and not an Italian or Slovenian one? If we answer these questions, we’ll know where we’re headed. We need to nurture local things and all those things that are good in Croatia, this is what makes us different and better. The ecosystem within which Meneghetti and all the other Croatian wine hotels work is challenging: − I’ve recently heard that Italy’s annual revenue from wine tourism amounts to USD 6 billion − Plišo says and continues − Even if it’s only half that, it’s a lot. It’s only logical that Croatian winemakers have also taken this path. It’s the best way to present your own products. Wine goes hand in hand with restaurants, hotels, etc. This is the best way for winemakers to export their product on their very doorstep. But this path is neither easy nor short. To the question of how he sees the future development of his business, he says: − In the same direction that it’s been going so far. The Meneghetti restaurant’s offer is selfless, meaning that we have some seventy labels of mostly Croatian wines and some from neighbouring countries, but they’re all from Europe. As far as our wine sales are concerned, some ninety percent of the wines we sell are Meneghetti wines and only some ten percent are other wines. However, despite the fact that foreigners in Croatia want to drink Croatian wines, we’ve decided to include in our wine list a few hundred wines, to increase the number of Croatian wines on offer, and to add some world champions to it. This raises our quality and creates a feeling of selflessness.

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01 Vinski podrum Saints Hills, Oskoruπno, Peljeπac Saints Hills wine cellar, Oskoruπno, Peljeπac 02 Ernest Tolj

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SAINTS HILLS Obitelj Tolj već godinama postupno gradi premium vinski brend Saints Hills. Vinarija Saints Hills smještena je na poluotoku Pelješcu u mjestašcu Oskorušno. Ivana Tolj o pokretanju vinskog hotela kaže: − Projekt se dogodio sasvim spontano. Stara kuća u kojoj je naša vinarija bila je neobično velika i dominirala je u malome selu, a imala je i odvojenu kuću za poslugu. Kako je bila dosta osamljena, a selo raseljeno davnih godina, sadržaji bi zahtjevnoga gosta privukli sami od sebe. Omogućili su upoznavanje peljeških vina od trsa do stola u vlastitu hotelu i restoranu. Svjesni su da je pred njima dug put jer izvan granica Hrvatske taj je lokalitet još uvijek nepoznanica. Vrhunska vina Dingač i originalne kupaže koje stvaraju pod vlastitim brendom namijenjene su premium gostima i potrošačima. − Vinarija je mlada moderna priča koja shvaća koliko su tradicija i ostavština bitne. Stvaramo iskrena vina kroz koja pričamo životnu priču. Nalazimo se na mjestu netaknute mediteranske prirode i zaista mislim da takvo nešto zaslužuje pažnju. Pelješac je veliki prirodni botanički vrt;

ovdje se osjećate kao da ste zalutali u zaboravljenu zemlju u kojoj ugađate svim svojim osjetilima. Uz to sve imate puni komfor naše vinarije − kaže Ivana Tolj. Na pitanje što misli o malom pokretu novih vrhunskih vinskih hotela, kaže: − Pojavilo se nekoliko izvanrednih hotela, što nas beskrajno veseli jer to znači da pomalo postajemo vinska destinacija. Što bude više takvih projekata, to će više biti i vinskih gostiju. Nacionalno brendiranje, još čeka ozbiljniju inicijativu i još je na leđima vinara pojedinaca koji pionirski odrađuju taj posao. I zato se kreće malim koracima. For years, the Tolj family has gradually been building their premium Saints Hills wine brand. Saints Hills Winery is on the Peninsula of Pelješac in the village of Oskorušno. Ivana Tolj says the following about setting up their wine hotel: − The project happened rather spontaneously. The old house where our winery is was unusually big and dominated the view of the small village, and had a separate servants’ house. As the house was quite secluded, and the village depopulated

and heritage are. We produce genuine wine through which we’re writing a story of life. We’re in a place of untouched Mediterranean nature and I really think that something like that deserves our attention. Pelješac is a great natural botanical garden. Here, you feel like you’ve wandered into a forgotten land in which all your senses are being pampered. And you have the full comfort of our winery at your disposal − says Ivana Tolj. When asked what she thinks about the small unofficial movement of new top wine hotels, she says:

− It’s a fact that some outstanding hotels have been opened, which we’re very happy about because that means that we’re becoming a bit of a wine destination. An increase in the number of such projects implies an increase in the number of wine guests. Nation branding awaits a more serious initiative, and continues to rest on the shoulders of individual winemakers who’ve been pioneering the business, which is draining for winemakers both financially and time-wise. And that’s why only small steps are made.

years ago, we were forced to come up with our own facilities that would attract demanding guests. And so they’ve provided the chance to discover the wines of Pelješac farm-totable in their own hotel and restaurant. They’re aware that the road before them is long because, beyond the borders of Croatia, the locality is still unknown. The Dingač top-quality wine and the original blends they’ve been creating under their brand are intended for high-end guests and consumers. − The winery is a young, modern story that understands just how important tradition 01

01 Vinogradi Saints Hills, poloæaj DingaË The Saints Hills vineyard, the DingaË terroir 02 Restoran u kompleksu hotela i vinarije Saints Hills, Oskoruπno The Saints Hills restaurant within the hotel and winery complex, Oskoruπno

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ROXANICH WINE & HERITAGE HOTEL Posljednji otvoreni vinski hotel u Hrvatskoj dovodi nas u istarski renesansni gradić Motovun, gdje se prožimaju tradicija, povijest i suvremene vrijednosti održivoga razvoja. Mladen Rožanić, vinar i većinski vlasnik vinarije Roxanich, nastavlja priču otvaranjem novog vinskog hotela u gradu u kojemu je i počela njegova vinska odiseja. Roxanich Wine & Heritage Hotel prema njegovim je riječima jedinstveno mjesto koje objedinjuje put grožđa od vinograda do stola, odnosno trgovine, od prerade preko fermentacije grožđa,

odležavanja i njegovanja u podrumu do punjenja vina kao proizvoda spremnog za tržište. − Veliko je finale i mogućnost da se u našem vinu uživa na istome mjestu, bila to degustacija vina Roxanich ili uživanje uz osmišljene tanjure našega restorana. Priča o hotelu Roxanich zanimljiva je i s aspekta promišljanja sadržajnog razvoja grada. Hotel je nastao nadogradnjom nekadašnjeg komunalnog podruma sagrađenog 1902., a objekt su u dogovoru s gradskim vlastima pretvorili u glavnu hotelsku zgradu s dvoranom za događanja 01 Vinska paleta Roxanich The Roxanich’s choice of wines 02 Restoran hotela The Roxanich’s hotel restaurant 03 Mladen RoæaniÊ 04 Dva tipa hotelskih soba Two types of hotel rooms

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i ekskluzivnom vinskom trgovinom. Uz postojeću rekonstruiranu zgradu arhitekt Idis Turato uz Rožanićev je nadzor projektirao i dodatne sadržaje za hotel, kao što su restoran i moderni dodatak na glavnu zgradu, u kojoj su dodatni ekskluzivni smještajni kapaciteti. A sve to stoji na novoukopanom i sagrađenom vinskom podrumu koji se nalazi ispod razine hotelsko-ugostiteljskog kompleksa. Na pitanje o viziji budućnosti vinarije i hotela Rožanić odgovara: − Fokusirani smo na hedoniste i zaljubljenike u vino i hranu. Veselimo se svim gostima koji planiraju svoj odmor provesti u Istri jer se, osim u hotel, može doći na vinsku degustaciju ili objed u naš restoran, koji nudi autorski pristup istarskoj kuhinji. The most recently opened wine hotel in Croatia brings us to the Istrian Renaissance townlet of Motovun, where tradition and history meet today’s values of sustainable development. Mladen Rožanić, a winemaker and majority shareholder of the Roxanich Winery, is continuing his story by having opened a new wine hotel in a town where his wine odyssey began. The Roxanich Wine & Heritage Hotel is, he says, a unique place merging the paths of grape from

vineyard to table or the grocery store. − From production through grape fermentation, the aging and tending to in the cellar to the bottling of wine as a product ready for the market. It’s a grand finale and the chance to savour our wine in the same place, whether it’s a wine tasting of Roxanich wines or enjoying the elaborate dishes of our restaurant. The story of the Roxanich Hotel is also interesting from the point of view of the facilities development of a town. The hotel was erected by a superstructure having been built on top of what was once a communal wine cellar built in 1902 and, in agreement with the town council, it was transformed into the main hotel building with an event venue and an exclusive wine shop.

Adjacent to the existing reconstructed building, architect Idis Turato designed, under Rožanić’s supervision, additional hotel facilities, such as a restaurant and a modern add-on to the main building with additional exclusive accommodation facilities. And all this stands on a newly built wine cellar, which is below the hotel and restaurant complex. When asked about the way he sees the future of the winery, Rožanić says: − We are focused on hedonists, lovers of wine and food. We look forward to all guests who plan to spend their holidays in Istria because they can enjoy, apart from the hotel, a wine tasting experience or dine in our restaurant, which offers its own interpretation of Istrian cuisine. 03

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Ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje Cres U Republici Hrvatskoj maslina je jedna od odrednica Mediterana, a područje rasprostranjenosti obuhvaća Istru, priobalni pojas Kvarnera i otoke te priobalni pojas Dalmacije s otocima. Posljednjih godina zbog određenih objektivnih okolnosti, kao što su uvođenje niza mjera državne potpore, situacije na tržištu koja se ogleda u većoj potražnji za maslinovim uljem te mogućnosti postizanja veće cijene, razvoja turizma i ostaloga, kontinuirano raste interes za proizvodnju maslinovog ulja, što je pozitivno utjecalo na razvoj maslinarstva u Republici Hrvatskoj. Većina stabala maslina (oko 96%) u vlasništvu je obiteljskih gospodarstava, a jedan maslinar u prosjeku održava više od 100 stabala maslina. U Republici Hrvatskoj trenutačno postoji oko 160 uljara, koje su prostorno dobro raspoređene, prosječnog preradbenog

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kapaciteta oko 1300 kg/h. Stoljetna tradicija uzgoja maslina omogućila je creskim maslinarima da s vremenom selekcioniraju autohtonu sortu imena slivnjača, koja je u potpunosti prilagođena teškim uvjetima uzgoja, tj. dobro podnosi hladnoću i plitka tla koja slabo zadržavaju vodu, a čini oko 80% stabala na otoku. Na dubljim tlima tradicionalno se sadi lokalna sorta plominka. Proizvodnja i prerada maslina te skladištenje i punjenje ekstra djevičanskog maslinova ulja Cres ograničeno je na područje otoka Cresa, a ulje je dobiveno izravno iz ploda masline koji mora potjecati od sorti slivnjača i/ili plominka u najmanjem udjelu od 90%, dok ostatak do 10% može potjecati od drugih sorti. Prerada maslina mora se obaviti u roku od 48 sati od njihove berbe. Baranjski kulen Baranjski kulen fermentirana je trajna kobasica, proizvedena od usitnjena

svinjskog mesa, začinjena mljevenom paprikom i bijelim lukom te paprom te napunjena u svinjsko slijepo crijevo ili katicu, kako se često naziva u Baranji. Baranjski kulen izvana je svijetlo do tamnosmeđe boje, a na presjeku varira od svijetlo do tamnocrvene boje koja potječe od mljevene paprike i usitnjena mesa. Okus baranjskog kulena blago je ljut zbog dodatka mljevene paprike, s karakterističnom aromom dimljenoga fermentiranog mesa koju nadopunjuje bijeli luk i papar. Specifičnost baranjskog kulena u odnosu na druge kulene jest dodatak papra. Baranjski su proizvođači kulena kroz povijest upotrebljavali papar, što je bilo vezano uz proizvodnju južno-ugarskih salama, čija im je tehnologija bila poznata, a što se može vidjeti iz asortimana njihovih proizvoda. Naime, u to doba u Baranji okosnicu cjelokupnoga gospodarskog života čine poljoprivredna dobra u posjedu visokog austrougarskoga plemstva, s dobro razgranatim trgovačkim mrežama. Zbog otvorenosti prema ondašnjoj Europi baranjskim je proizvođačima papar bio dostupniji, što se može smatrati razlogom njegova korištenja u recepturi i proizvodnji baranjskog kulena. Proizvodnja baranjskog kulena odvija se na području Baranje, koje je smješteno u sjeveroistočnome dijelu Hrvatske, a obuhvaća krajeve sjeverno od donjeg toka rijeke Drave prije njezina ušća u rijeku Dunav.

Dalmatinski pršut Proizvodnja pršuta u Dalmaciji započela je kada se vještina prerade i očuvanja svinjskoga mesa soljenjem i sušenjem proširila iz Starog Rima europskim kontinentom. Od tada pa do današnjih dana vještina proizvodnje pršuta prenosila se iz generacije u generaciju te se s vremenom razvio poseban postupak proizvodnje karakterističan za područje Dalmacije. Dalmatinski pršut trajan je suhomesnati proizvod proizveden od svinjskog buta s kosti, kožom i potkožnim masnim tkivom, suho soljen morskom soli, dimljen blagim izgaranjem tvrdog drva bukve, hrasta ili

graba te podvrgnut procesu sušenja i zrenja u trajanju od najmanje jedne godine. Specifičnost dalmatinskog pršuta jest u osebujnoj aromi, blagom slanom okusu, jednoličnoj crvenoj boji mesa te blago izraženome mirisu dima, a morska sol jedini je dodatak koji dalmatinski pršut smije sadržavati. Postupak kojim se odobrava stavljanje dalmatinskog pršuta na tržište jest nanošenje zajedničkoga vrućeg žiga, koji sadrži zajednički znak dalmatinskog pršuta i šifru proizvođača koja je istovjetna kontrolnom veterinarskom broju objekta. Svi primjerci vrućeg žiga čuvaju se pri Udruzi Dalmatinski pršut. Proizvodnja dalmatinskog pršuta odvija se kroz propisane faze soljenja, prešanja, dimljenja i sušenja te zrenja pršuta. Sve ove faze moraju se odvijati unutar propisanoga zemljopisnog područja, odnosno na području koje obuhvaća veći dio hrvatskog primorja duž Jadranskoga mora koje se sastoji od otočnoga i obalnog dijela te submediteranske unutrašnjosti. Dalmatinski pršut tradicionalni je proizvod čija se posebnost očituje ponajprije u njegovim značajkama mirisa i okusa, koje su posljedica načina njegove pripreme i uvjeta u proizvodnom području.

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Europske oznake kvalitete - zaštićena oznaka izvornosti, zaštićena oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla i zajamčeno tradicionalni specijalitet European Quality Labels − Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication, Traditional Specialities Guaranteed Samoborski bermet Samoborski bermet aromatizirano je piće na temelju vina čija je tradicija spravljanja duga više od 200 godina. Na to upućuju podaci nađeni u Muzeju Grada Samobora u crkvenim knjigama u kojima se to piće spominje još od 1755. godine kao dobar lijek za želudac te se navode i recepti za njegovo spravljanje. Glavni sastojci ovoga tradicionalnog samoborskog pića jesu crno grožđe uz dodatak vina i raznih aromatizirajućih sastojaka poput sušenih smokava, rogača, pelina, gorušice, vanilije, muškatnog oraščića i drugih začina. U prosjeku sadrži 15 do 16% alkohola, a u hrastovim bačvama dozrijeva najmanje tri mjeseca. Samoborski bermet intenzivne je rubinsko crvene boje s iskričavim notama. S obzirom na sadržaj stvarnog alkohola i

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ekstrakta, u čaši su vidljive suze uslijed izražene gustoće proizvoda. Prvi dojam u strukturi mirisa upućuje na biljne note kojima dominira pelin, a u kontaktu sa zrakom oslobađaju se i note sušenoga mediteranskog voća. Miris je intenzivan, naglašen, postojan i karakterističan za proizvod. Specifičnost samoborskog bermeta jest slatko-gorki okus naglašene punoće. Tijekom kušanja u ustima glavni je slatki okus koji se nadopunjuje okusom gorčine i suhog voća, što uz prisutnu kiselost utječe na harmoničnost okusa koji upotpunjuju arome mediteranskog voća. Poslužuje se kao aperitiv ili digestiv. Zbog specifičnosti i duge tradicije proizvodnje ovoga jedinstvenog pića, naziv samoborski bermet jest zaštićena oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla kojom

se potrošačima jamči njegova kvaliteta i podrijetlo. Ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje Cres In the Republic of Croatia, olive is one of the ingredients that define the Mediterranean, and the regions where it is cultivated include Istria, the coastline of Kvarner and its islands, and the coastline of Dalmatia and its islands. In the past few years − due to some objective circumstances, such as the introduction of a series of state aid measures, the situation on the market that has been recording a higher demand for olive oil and the chance to achieve higher prices, the development of tourism, etc. − interest in the production of olive oil has continued to grow, which has had a positive impact on the development of olive growing in the Republic of Croatia. Most olive trees (approximately 96%) are owned by family farms, with one olive grower growing over one hundred olive trees on average. In the Republic of Croatia, there are currently some 160 oil mills, which are

spaced apart well, and whose average processing capacity is about 1,300 kg/h. The centuries-old tradition of olive growing enabled the olive growers of the Island of Cres to gradually select the autochthonous variety of Slivnjača, which has fully adapted to difficult growing conditions. More specifically, this variety tolerates

cold weather conditions and shallow soils that don’t retain water well, comprising around 80% of all olive trees on the island. In deeper soils, the local Plominka variety is traditionally cultivated. The production and processing, the storage and bottling of Ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje Cres is limited to the area of the Island of Cres.

Moreover, the oil needs to be obtained directly from the Slivnjača and/or Plominka varieties of olive fruit, whose share in the oil must not be less than 90%, while the rest (up to 10%) can come from other varieties. Also, the olives must be processed within 48 hours of harvesting. Baranjski kulen Baranjski kulen is a fermented cured sausage made from finely diced pork meat, seasoned with ground paprika, garlic and pepper, and stuffed into a pig’s appendix or katica as it is often called in the region of Baranja. The outside of Baranjski kulen is light to dark brown in colour, while on the inside it varies from lighter to darker shades of red, which comes from ground paprika and the diced meat. Baranjski kulen is slightly spicy which also results from the addition of ground paprika, and has the characteristic aroma of smoked fermented meat complemented by garlic and pepper. What makes Baranjski kulen distinct when compared to other types of kulen is the addition of pepper. Throughout history,

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Baranja’s kulen producers have always used pepper, which must have been the influence of south Hungarian salami producers, whose technology and know-how they were familiar with, which reflected in their assortment of products. More specifically, Baranja’s then economy centred around agricultural farms owned by high Austro-Hungarian nobility whose trade networks were well spread out. Such access to the then European markets gave Baranja’s kulen producers access

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to pepper, which may be why it has been used in the production of Baranjski kulen. Baranjski kulen is produced in the region of Baranja in the north-east of Croatia, and encompasses the northern regions of the lower Drava River before it flows into the Danube. Dalmatinski pršut The production of prosciutto (pršut) in Dalmatia started when the technology of the processing and preserving of pork by

salting and drying spread from Ancient Rome across the European continent. The technology of the production of pršut has been passed down from generation to generation ever since and, over time, a specific production method typical of the region of Dalmatia has been developed. Dalmatinski pršut is a cured meat product made from the hind leg of pork with bone, skin and subcutaneous fat, salted only with sea salt, smoked by the mild burning of beech, oak or hornbeam, and dried and aged for at least a year. What makes Dalmatinski pršut specific is its distinctive aroma, its slightly salty taste, its uniformly red colour and a mild smoky smell, with sea salt being the only additive that Dalmatinski pršut is allowed to contain. The procedure that allows Dalmatinski pršut to be put on the market is hot-branding with a brand mark comprising the common sign of Dalmatinski pršut and producer code, which is identical to the veterinary control number of the facility. All copies of the hot brands are kept by the Dalmatinski pršut Association. Dalmatinski pršut is produced following prescribed salting, pressing, smoking, drying and aging methods. All these stages must take place within the defined ge-

ographic region, that is, in the region that covers most of the Croatian coast along the Adriatic Sea, including the islands and the coastline, and the sub-Mediterranean inland. Dalmatinski pršut is a traditional product, and what makes it specific are its taste and smell resulting from its preparation method and the conditions in the region that it’s produced in. Samoborski bermet Samoborski bermet is a flavoured wine-based drink with a 200-year-old tradition. It was first mentioned back in 1755 in church records kept in the Samobor Museum. The said records contain its recipes, referring to it as good medication for stomach ailments. The main ingredients of this traditional drink from Samobor are black grapes, to which wine and various aromatising ingredients, such as dried figs, carob, wormwood, mustard plant, vanilla, nutmeg and other spices are added. On average, it contains 15 to 16 percent of alcohol, and is aged in oak barrels for at least three months. The colour of Samoborski bermet is an intense ruby red with sparkling hues. Given the content of actual alcohol and extract,

and because of the high density of the product, tears are visible in the glass once poured. As far as its structure of fragrance is concerned, the first impression is that of its herbal notes dominated by wormwood, and in contact with air its notes of dried Mediterranean fruit are released. Its scent is intense, pronounced, constant and typical of the product. What makes Samoborski bermet specific is its bitter-sweet, full taste. Its main taste is sweet complemented by the taste of

bitterness and that of dried fruit, which, given the acidity present, contributes to the harmony of flavour which is rounded off by the aromas of Mediterranean fruit. It’s served either as an aperitif or as a digestif. Given this unique drink’s specificity and long tradition, the name Samoborski bermet is protected with a Protected Geographical Indication label, which guarantees consumers its quality and origin.

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PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL ATTRACTIONS

DIVLJA LJEPOTA RIJEKE KRUPE

Slap Deveterac čini devet sedrenih terasa The Deveterac Waterfall is made up of nine tufa terraces

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos _ Goran Šafarek

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THE WILD BEAUTY OF THE KRUPA RIVER

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01 Okuka rijeke Krupe A bend in the Krupa River 02 Bujna vegetacija Krupu čini oazom u kršu Lush vegetation makes Krupa an oasis in karst

Krupa je nepoznati biser krša, oaza u kamenjaru. Jedna je od najmanje poznatih rijeka Hrvatske, ali najljepših. Dugačka je samo sedam kilometara, ali pruža mnogo više nego neka i deset puta duža rijeka, nerijetko degradirana u beživotni kanal. Pogled s ruba dubokog kanjona koji se urezao u kršku bezvodnu dalmatinsku zaravan je impresivan: kristalno bistra voda rijeke poprima duboku zelenkastu boju. Ovo su Plitvice u malom...

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The Krupa River is an unknown pearl of karst, an oasis surrounded by rock. It’s one of the least known, yet one of the most beautiful rivers of Croatia. It’s only seven kilometres long and is often degraded into a lifeless canal, but has much more to offer that a river which is ten times longer. The view from the edge of its deep canyon that carved itself into Dalmatia’s waterless karst plateau is breath-taking: the river’s crystal clear water takes on a deep greenish hue. It looks very much like the Plitvice Lakes, but is smaller in scale...

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01 Čudesni spoj kamena i močvare A wondrous blend of rock and marsh 02 Podvodna džungla na dnu rijeke An underwater riverbed jungle 03 Kanuisti ulaze u Krupu iz susjedne Zrmanje Canoeists entering Krupa from the neighbouring Zrmanja River

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01 Koze prelaze preko starog Kudina mosta Goats crossing the old Kudeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bridge 02 Stanovnik obliĹžnjega sela obilazi rijeku A resident of a nearby village stopping by the river 03 Krupa je bogata ribom Krupa is rich in fish

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eško je uopće pomisliti na spuštanje do rijeke Krupe, preko strmih litica ili kotrljajućeg sipara. Kao da smo usred Afrike ili Australije, no to je divlja rijeka Krupa u Hrvatskoj. Dolje, u dnu kanjona žubor vode remeti tišinu. Iako se još ne vidi, iza zavoja sigurno dolazi slap. Uistinu, uskoro se nasred rijeke ukazalo drveće i grmlje, pouzdan znak barijere koja je prepriječila tok. Već dva metra dalje sva silina rijeke slijeva se u slap obrušavajući se uz pjenu i zaglušnu buku koji metar dolje. Sve je bujno, sočno i zeleno od algi, mahovina i biljaka. Ali i sklisko, jer stijena je glatka, obla, za razliku od oštrih bridova padina kanjona. Kao na Plitvičkim jezerima - usporedba i nije daleka, barem što se tiče postanka ovih barijera. Riječ je o istoj čarobnoj igri vode i stijene u kojoj se rađa sedra, umjetnica koja stvarajući slapove preobražava krški krajolik. Općenito je fascinantna prisutnost vode u kršu. Krupa izbija iz bezvodnog surovog kamenja podno najjužnijeg kraka moćnog Velebita. Ljeti voda probija tek

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01 Jedan od brojnih slapića rijeke Krupe One of Krupa’s countless small waterfalls 02 Stara kamena vodenica blizu vrela Krupe An old stone watermill near the source of Krupa

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01 Dvorište manastira Krupa The Krupa Monastery’s courtyard 02 Ušće Krupe u Zrmanju The confluence of Krupa and Zrmanja 03 Impresivni manastir Krupa The impressive Krupa Monastery

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tu i tamo, ali u proljeće suklja kad se na Velebitu tope snjegovi. Putovi vode u kršu skriveni su od pogleda ljudi, a pod našim nogama teku i cijele rijeke koje mjestimice izbijaju na vrelima. Tu su izdašnost ljudi davno otkrili, preusmjeravajući tekuće blago na male vrtove i mlinice. Danas se vrti još jedino Urošev mlin kod ceste, a iz njegove ljupke kamene građe pršti voda pa kao da je i sam dio jedne od izvorskih stijena. Koji kilometar nizvodno rijeka se širi u prostrano polje. Uz rub polja pravoslavni su monasi još u 14. stoljeću izgradili manastir koji se održao do danas. Štoviše, nedavno je pod budnim okom restauratora obnovljen stari kameni most. Cijelo zdanje sada je savršeno uklopljeno u okoliš, a putnik namjernik može se odmoriti i okrijepiti u sjeni drveća uz šum vode. Gdje nema slapova, rijeka je spora, gotovo i ne teče. Sedrene barijere usporile su rijeku i stvorile protočna jezera, baš kao i na Plitvičkim jezerima. Stoga gdje god je manja dubina raste lopoč, trska i slične močvarne biljke, odmah do gruboga kamena, tu usred kamenitog dalmatinskog zaleđa! Krupa je zelena oaza usred kamenjara na kojem se čovjek može polomiti na oštroj stijeni, porezati na trn kakve škrte biljke, gdje nemilosrdno sunce isušuje svaku kap vode. U kanjon Krupe otvara se drugi kanjon, još impozantniji - kanjon Krnjeze. Sasušene vodene mahovine i lokvice mlake vode s kričavo zelenim algama svjedoče da se voda ovdje smirila. Za vrijeme kiša zacijelo divlja, jer kako bi inače tisućljećima usjekla tako dubok, izrazito krševit kanjon! I to je jedna od najkraćih rijeka − svega nekoliko stotina metara dijeli ušće od izvora. Krnjeza izvire u maloj pećini na samom 03

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Iza još jednog slapa rijeka je izgubila obličje, nastaje neravan krajolik nabacan rukom sedre. Slobodna voda suzila se na sredinu, sa strana su je grčevito stisnule vrbe, ali i kroz njih sa svih strana probija voda, još više divlja nego inače. Ovo su Plitvice u malom, samo usred surova ambijenta golih stijena kanjona. Savršena prilika za istraživanje skrivenog podvodnog, zelenog svijeta u zagrljaju mrzle vode. Oko slapa posvuda kapa, pršti, nosi, kao u ogromnoj perilici rublja. Malo dalje, u mirnijem dijelu, dno je prava džungla vodenog bilja. Stabljike lopoča uzdižu se kao stabla iz vodene šikare. Jato ribica pliva oko njih, neke su od njih endemi kojih nema nigdje drugdje na svijetu. Nevjerojatna je to raskoš kakve se ne bi postidjeli ni najpoznatiji botanički vrtovi. Uskoro se u kanjonu otvara ulaz u drugu rijeku, Zrmanju, poznatu po raftingu. Tek malo iza ušća je veličanstveni Veliki buk, slap od desetak metara, usred isto tako impresivnog kanjona i divljine, ali to je već druga priča...

I vrhu kanjona, iz zelenog jezerca u vječnoj polusjeni. Poput čudovišta, čeka da ga probude kiše i da se raspali bujicom. Ljeti voda pomalo curi podzemljem do rijeke. Na jednom mjestu Krupa se prelijeva preko prirodnih sedrenih terasa, njih ukupno devet, pa se i slapište zove Deveterac. Već na sljedećem slapu, bujna trska, vrbe i smokve skrivaju most. Ljudi još pričaju legendu o zaljubljenom mladiću Kudi koji je premostio rijeku da bi stigao do svoje ljubljene. Ne zna se je li to istina ili ne, ali nepoznati stari majstori spojili su dvije obale preko dvanaest malih lukova koristeći kamen i rezane sedrene blokove. Nastao je savršen spoj prirode i kulture - Kudin most. On je nekoć bio iznimno važan ljudima za putovanje i prijenos robe, a možda i za ljubav, ali stari majstori nisu ni sanjali kakav su izvrstan spoj prirode i

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kulture sagradili. Odjednom su se stvorile koze koje su nahrupile preko mosta, a onda se većina njih raštrkala po livadici male naplavne ravnice usred kanjona. Za njima je došao i pastir. Sijede kose i duboke bore ostavile su trag kroz desetljeća, ali Marko Veselinović još bez problema vodi svoje blago. I dok brkati i rogati biljožderi pasu, Marko se primio sjekire i čisti podnožje mosta od šikare. Ondje, iza smokava, izranja sedrom obložen kameni žrvanj, ostatak negdašnje mlinice. Osim što ih pasu koze, ljudi su nekoć i kosili livade, čak su na ravnici sadili kulture koje su mogle podnijeti kratkotrajne poplave. Božji dar ove i ostalih livada bio je zlata vrijedan za ljude iz kraja, pa su sadili jablane da korijenjem učvrste obalu i utvrđivali je kamenjem, sve kako bi spriječili da rijeka odnese ma i komadić plodne zemlje.

t’s difficult to imagine reaching the Krupa River across steep cliffs or rolling scree. It reminds of central Africa or Australia, yet it’s the wild Krupa River in Croatia. Down there, at the bottom of the canyon, the gurgle of water breaks the silence. Although still out of sight, there’s a waterfall hiding around the bight. Indeed, soon trees and shrubs come into view in the middle of the river, a reliable sign of a barrier interfering with its flow. Just two metres away, the river’s might is transformed into a waterfall, a deafeningly loud and foamy downpour falling a few metres down. All is lush, succulent and green with algae, mosses and plants. But also slippery, because the rocks are smooth and round, a stark contrast to the sharp edges of the slopes of the canyon. Much like the Plitvice Lakes − this comparison is not at all amiss, at least as far as the origin of these barriers is concerned. It’s the same magical interplay between water and rock out of which tufa is born, an artist that has been, by birthing waterfalls, transforming this karst landscape. The presence of water in karst is generally fascinating. The Krupa River wells from the waterless rugged rock at the foot of the southernmost part of the mighty Velebit Mountain. In the summer, water wells only here and there, yet in the spring, it gushes when the snow start melting on Velebit. The

paths of water in karst are concealed from view, with entire rivers flowing underfoot welling up sporadically in springs. This abundance of water was discovered long ago, with people having redirected this liquid gold to their tiny gardens and mills. Today, only Uroš’s Mill next to the road works − water spurts from its picturesque stone structure, as though it is itself part of one of the spring rocks. A few kilometres downstream, the river expands into an expansive field. On the fringes of the field, Orthodox monks built a monastery in the 14th century, which has been preserved to date. What is more, the old stone bridge has recently been restored under the watchful eye of restorers. The entire edifice is now perfectly integrated into the environment, with the shade of trees offering chance passers-by a place to rest and freshen up while listening to the murmur of water. At places where there are no waterfalls, the river is slow, appearing to have come to a standstill. Tufa barriers slow down the river, thus creating flowing water lakes, much like in the Plitvice Lakes. And so, wherever the lake bed is shallow, water lilies, bulrush and other similar wetland plants thrive, right beside rugged rock, in the very midst of the rocky Dalmatian hinterland. The Krupa River is a green oasis surrounded by rock where your bones will break if you fall over sharp rock, where the thorns of hardy plants will cut you, and where the merciless sun desiccates every drop of water. Another canyon opens into the Krupa River Canyon, an even more impressive one − the Krnjeza River Canyon. Dried up water moss and pools of lukewarm water with bright green algae bear witness to water quietening here. During the rains, it must be wild though, for how would it have otherwise chiselled this deep, extremely rugged canyon over the millennia. This is one of the shortest rivers − as little as a few hundred metres separate its source from its mouth. The Krnjeza River wells in a small cave at the very top of the canyon, from a green lakelet hiding in an eternal penumbra. Much like a monster, it waits for the rains to wake it for it to break loose with a torrent. In the summer, the water trickles underground to the river little by little. At one point, the Krupa flows over natural tufa terraces, nine in total, which is why the waterfall is called De-

Mlada krastača s obala rijeke A baby green toad from the banks of the Krupa

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veterac (Niners in translation). By the next waterfall, lush bulrush, willow and fig trees conceal a bridge from view. The legend of Kude − a young man in love, who built a bridge across the river to reach his beloved − continues to be retold. Whether there is any truth to the legend or not remains unknown, but unsung ancient masters bridged the two banks with twelve small arches using stone and chiselled slabs of tufa. The end result is a perfect synthesis of nature and culture − Kude’s Bridge. It was once extremely important for people for travel and the transport of goods, perhaps even for love, but never in their wildest dreams could the old masters expect their

construction to turn out to be such a brilliant fusion of nature and culture. Suddenly, there appear goats that swarm over the bridge, after which most get scattered across the meadow of a tiny alluvial plain in the middle of the canyon. There follows a shepherd. His grey hair and deep wrinkles are decades-old traces, although Marko Veselinović still looks after his treasure without any difficulty. And while the bearded and horned herbivores graze, Marko grabs his axe and starts cutting the undergrowth sprouting around the foot of the bridge. There, behind fig trees, a tufacovered millstone hides, the remains of what was once a mill. Besides being grazed by goats, the meadows used to be mowed, and even crops that could withstand shortterm flooding were once sown on these plains. This and other meadows, a true gift from God, were precious for the local community, and so, besides reinforcing the banks with slabs of stone, they planted poplar trees for their roots to further bolster the banks, all with a view to stopping the river from sweeping away even the tiniest bit of fertile land. Behind yet another waterfall, the river loses its shape and becomes an uneven land-

scape spotted with tufa. Here, free-flowing water gets constricted by willow trees clutching at it from the banks, although water wriggles through them from all sides, wilder than usual. Although smaller in scale and in the midst of a rugged landscape of the bare rock of the canyon, it looks very much like the Plitvice Lakes. These are perfect conditions for exploring the green hidden underwater world embraced by cold waters. Around the waterfall, water spatters, sprinkles, splashes everywhere, like in a giant washing machine. A bit further away, in a stiller part, the river bed is a true jungle of aquatic plant life. Water lily stems rise like trees from underwater underbrush. A shoal of small fish swim around them, some of which are endemic and cannot be found anywhere else in the world. Even the most famous botanical gardens could easily be envious of this incredible opulence. Soon, another river opens in the canyon, namely Zrmanja, famous for its rapids, perfect for rafting. The magnificent Veliki Buk, a ten-metre-long waterfall, emerges just around the river mouth in the midst of an equally impressive canyon and wilderness, but that’s another story...

Slap Deveterac i Kudin most The Deveterac Waterfall and Kude’s Bridge

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NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

Pogled na katedralu Notre-Dame i most Pont de la Tournelle A view of the Notre-Dame Cathedral and Tournelle Bridge

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PARIZ, UVIJEK SJAJNA IDEJA PARIS, ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA

Piše/By _ Nada Mirković Fotografije/Photos _ Vanja Šolin

Pariz još uvijek slovi kao grad ljubavi i dobre hrane. Želite li se uvjeriti da se to nije promijenilo, dođite, provjerite sami i uživajte. Neke pariške četvrti, arondismani, doživljaju zanimljive preobrazbe, a oni koji taj fascinantni grad dobro poznaju tvrde, arondismani će živjeti zauvijek. Paris is still regarded as the city of love and good food. The best way to check whether this has changed is to visit Paris to see for yourself and enjoy it. Some Parisian municipal districts, its arrondissements, have been undergoing fascinating transformations. Those who know this fascinating city really well say that the arrondissements will live forever. CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2019

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Vizura krovišta zgrada oko bazilike Sacré-Cœur A view of rooftops around the Sacré-Cœur Basilica

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Pogled na baziliku Sacré-Cœur A view of the Sacré-Cœur Basilica

Pogled na Elizejske poljane i muzej Louvre s Arc de Triomphea A view of Champs-Élysées and the Louvre from the Arc de Triomphe

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Neboder EDF i detalj Calderova Crvenog pauka u četvrti La Défense The EDF Tower and a detail of Calder’s Red Spider sculpture in the business district of La Défense

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Poslovna četvrt La Défense La Défense business district

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Esplanade de la Défense s pogledom na La Grande Arche Esplanade de la Défense with La Grand Arche in the background

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Nacionalna knjižnica François Mitterrand, arhitekt: Dominique Perrault François Mitterrand National Library, architect: Dominique Perrault

Passage de l’Arche, La Défense

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01 La Grande Arche de la DĂŠfense, arhitekt/architect: Johan Otto von Spreckelsen 02 Interijer Instituta du monde arabe Arab World Institute interior, arhitekt/architect: Jean Nouvel 03 Place Institut du monde arabe, arhitekt/architect: Jean Nouvel

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ariz je uvijek sjajna ideja, ustvrdila je Sabrina iz istoimenog filma. Genijalni američki redatelj Billy Wilder obožavao je Grad Svjetla, a kao idealnu Parižanku vidio je elegantnu Audrey Hepburn i ponovno je angažirao za svoju sljedeću posvetu Parizu, film Ljubav poslijepodne (1957.). Pripovjedač u tom filmu, kojemu je Wilder napisao tekst, objašnjava da je Pariz metropola poput svake druge, s dvije ključne razlike. U Parizu se, kaže, bolje jede, a i vodi se ljubav, ako ne bolje, onda češće, u svako doba dana, na svakome mjestu, na lijevoj i na desnoj obali Seine, čak i između − što bi značilo na ljupkome bogataškom otočiću St. Louis, koji vrijedi posjetiti već i zbog toga što nudi najbolji pogled na impozantnu gotičku stražnju stranu katedrale Notre Dame bez horda turista. Je li Pariz doista grad u kojem je više ljubavi i dobre hrane, morate svakako provjeriti sami. Odakle početi? Možda je najbolje da ga na početku obuhvatite što je brže moguće jednim pogledom, na primjer iz našeg aviona, pri slijetanju. Pariški graditelji ponudili su nam mogućnost da ga vidimo iz zraka i na više mjesta u gradu. Eiffelov toranj i njegovi vidikovci tu su već 132 godine, a La Grande Arche de la Defense 30 godina. La Grande Arche izgrađen je u novome pariškom poslovnom cityju da bi se slavolukom posvećenim humanističkim idealima, a ne vojnim pobjedama, obilježilo 200 godina Francuske revolucije. Redovi za panoramski lift i nedavno obnovljenu promenadu na vrhu kraći su od redova za Eiffelov toranj, no pogled će biti zanimljiviji zaljubljenicima u modernu arhitekturu

Interijer Centra Georges Pompidou Georges Pompidou Centre interior

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Eksterijer Centra Georges Pompidou, arhitekti: Richard Rogers, Renzo Piano i Gianfranco Franchini Georges Pompidou Centre exterior, architects: Richard Rogers, Renzo Piano and Gianfranco Franchini

nego onima koji smatraju da su les grands boulevards pravo srce Pariza. Iako je graditelj i urbanistički vizionar baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann prije više od 150 godina dao izgraditi 137 kilometara grandioznih pariških avenija i bulevara s drvoredima te 27 parkova i trgova na mjestu najgušće naseljenih pariških slamova bez kanalizacije, još je uvijek gotovo kontroverzna ličnost u gradu koji najviše voli sve ono što je u njemu najstarije. Iako je napravio kićenu zgradu opere Palais Garnier i veoma složen sustav moderne kanalizacije, ipak je istodobno srušio oko 12.000 gusto naguranih kuća i zgrada i pretvorio središte grada u veliko gradilište na 17 godina. Parižani ne vole promjene, a kao najznačajnije prihvatili su samo nekoliko modernih građevina poput sad već vremešnog muzeja suvremene umjetnosti Beaubourga (službeno Centar Georges Pompidou, autora Richarda Rogersa, Renza Piana i Gianfranca Franchinija1977.), s impozantnim trgom i fontanom Stravinski usred starog dijela grada. Zavoljeli su i razigranu fasadu moderne zgrade Institut du Monde Arabe, francuskog starchitecta Jeana Nouvela, kao i njegovu zgradu Fondacije Cartier. Vole i Gehryjevu hipermodernističku zgradu muzeja Fondacije

Louis Vuitton, osobito zato što je skrivena u perivoju Boulogne. Eiffelov toranj mnogi Parižani (ali ne i turisti) nisu prihvatili desetljećima, što najbolje ilustrira izjava velikoga francuskog pisca Guyja de Maupassanta, koji je rekao da svaki dan ruča u restoranu Eiffelova tornja jer je to jedino mjesto u Parizu s kojeg se on ne vidi. Parižanima je dugo trebalo da zavole novu Operu Bastille, otvorenu prije 30 godina. No Parižani itekako prihvaćaju modne mijene kad su kvartovi njihova grada u pitanju. Pariške četvrti, arondismani, nikad neće izaći iz mode i živjet će zauvijek. Šesti je s egzistencijalistima ušao u gradske legende, u Prvom su Louvre, otmjeni trg Vendome i Palais Royalu, u Osmome su Palais Garnier, najotmjenije šoping avenije pa i kultna Champs-Élysées, no već neko vrijeme traje urbana preobrazba nekad zapuštenih Drugoga i Devetog arondismana. Najednom je ulica Des Martyrs na granici Devetoga i Osamnaestoga arondismana postala ono što je nekad bila ulica Mouffetard u Latinskoj četvrti. Riječ je o jednome od najživljih odredišta za Parižane, naročito ljubitelje hrane, ne toliko turiste. Oni ovamo dolaze na kavu ili u jedan od brojnih novih popularnih restorana, ovdje

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kupuju kruh ili sir u nekom od sirnih butika (fromagerie). Prepuna je još uvijek manje skupih kavana, restorana i trgovina, a neki Parižani obožavaju, dok drugi preziru hipstersku, boemski neurednu kavanu i slastičarnu Rose Bakery. Tu možete lako otkriti jede li se u Parizu još uvijek bolje nego u drugim velikim gradovima svijeta. Slična je, iako nešto uređenija i skuplja, pješačka ulica Montorgueil u Drugom arondismanu, istodobno puna zanimljivih novih restorana, ali i štandova pokretnih tržnica na kojima se mogu kupiti najkvalitetnije francuske namirnice. Drugi arondisman, koji katkad zovu i četvrti Burze, idealan je za kišne dane u Parizu, kada se ne može hodati na otvorenome. Tu je nekoliko šminkerskih pasaža, neke vrste prvih šoping centara građenih početkom 19. stoljeća. Bilo bi doista šteta otići iz Pariza a ne posjetiti elegantnu Galerie Vivienne, možda najljepši i najotmjeniji pariški pasaž, s impresivno očuvanim starinskim drvenim izlozima i podom od kamenog mozaika. Galerie Vivienne puna je glamuroznih dizajnerskih trgovina i tu je već neko vrijeme i sjedište modne tvrtke Celine, jednog od simbola pariškog luksuza i šika. U Drugom je i manje razglašen ali šarmantan Passage du Grand-Cerf te najstariji pariški Passage des Panoramas izgrađen još 1799. Velike pariške galerije i muzeje možda ne trebamo posebno spominjati, no u obilasku oživljenoga, gentrificiranoga Devetog arondismana svakako vrijedi posjetiti Musée de la Vie Romantique (Muzej romantičnog življenja) u podnožju Montmartrea, u četvrti koja je nekad

Skatepark de Bercy

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bila poznata kao Nova Atena. Omiljen je koliko zbog izložaka, toliko i zbog kavane u šarmantnom gradskom vrtu. Smješten je u nekadašnjoj privatnoj kući nizozemskoga slikara Scheffera, koji je imao salon u kojemu su se okupljali najpoznatiji francuski i europski umjetnici sredine 19. stoljeća, od Chopina i George Sand do slikara Eugenea Delacroixa, Turgenjeva, Dickensa. Osim slika umjetnika iz tog razdoblja ovdje su i memorabilije iz života George Sand, neobične francuske književnice − aristokratskog podrijetla, no iz izvanbračne veze − socijalistkinje nezasitnih seksualnih apetita koja je odlučila pisati i živjeti pod muškim imenom, gotovo poput muškarca. Ovdje ćete dobiti uvid i u onaj skriveni Pariz s početka, u kojem se ljubav − možda − vodi češće nego u ostalim gradovima.

aris is always a good idea, says Sabrina in the eponymous movie. The brilliant American film-maker Billy Wilder adored the City of Lights. He saw the elegant Audrey Hepburn as an ideal Parisian, and so he rehired her for his next dedication to Paris, the movie Love in the Afternoon (1957). The narrator in the movie, whose screenplay was written by Wilder, explains that Paris is just like any other big city... except for two little things. In Paris, he says, people eat better. And in Paris, people make love − well, perhaps not better, but certainly more often. They do it any time, any place. On the left bank, on the right bank, and in between! This in between place refers to the charming Île Saint-Louis of the rich, which is

worth a visit because it offers the best view of the impressive back of the Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral without the hordes of tourists. Whether Paris is really a city of love and good food is something you should see for yourself. So where do you start? Perhaps the best way is to take in as much of Paris as you possibly can as quickly as possible while, for example, aboard our flight, during landing. The builders of Paris gave us the chance to see the city from a bird’s eye view from many places in it. The Eiffel Tower and its viewing decks have been around for 132 years, and La Grande Arche de la Défense for 30 years. The latter was built in the new Parisian business district to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the French Revolution with an arch of triumph dedicated to humanistic ideals rather than to military victories. The queue for the panoramic elevator and the recently renovated promenade at the top are shorter than the queues for the Eiffel Tower. However, the view stretching from it is more interesting to admirers of modern architecture than those who think that the city’s grand boulevards are the true heart of Paris. Although the master builder and urban visionary Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann had 137 kilometres of Paris’s grand avenues and tree-lined boulevards, and 27 parks and squares built on the site of Paris’s most densely populated slums without a sewage system more than 150 years ago, he has to date remained a somewhat controversial figure in a city that loves the oldest things in it the most. Although he had the lavishly ornamented Palais Garnier opera house erected and a very complex system of modern sewerage built, he did demolish some 12,000 densely laid-out houses and buildings, having thus turned the city centre into a giant construction site for a period of 17 years. Parisians dislike change, and have grown to like only a few modern buildings, such as the already oldish Georges Pompidou Centre (built by architects Richard Rogers, Renzo Piano and Gianfranco Franchini in 1977), colloquially known as the Beaubourg housing the National Museum of Modern Art, with an impressive square and the Stravinsky Fountain in the middle of the old part of town. They’ve also grown to love the playful facade of the modern building of the Arab World Institute designed by the famous French architect Jean Nouvel, as well

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as his Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art and Cartier Headquarters building. They also love Gehry’s hypermodern art museum of the Louis Vuitton Foundation, particularly because it’s hidden in the Bois de Boulogne Park. Many Parisians (but not tourists) had disapproved of the Eiffel Tower for decades, which is best illustrated by a statement by the great French writer Guy de Maupassant, who said that he has lunch at the Eiffel Tower restaurant every day, because that’s the only place in Paris from which the tower could not be seen. It also took them a long time to get to like the new Opera Bastille house, which was opened 30 years ago. However, what Parisians do accept are the changes in fashion as far as the quarters of their city are concerned. The municipal districts of Paris, its arrondissements, will never go out of fashion and will live forever. The Sixth Arrondissement and its existentialists have become a legend of Paris. The First Arrondissement houses the Louvre Museum, the stunning Place Vendôme square and Palais-Royal. The Eighth is where the Palais Garnier opera house, posh shopping avenues and the cult Avenue des Champs-Élysées are. The once dilapidated Second and Ninth Arrondissements have been undergoing urban trans01 Noćni pogled s promatračnice nebodera Montparnasse A night view from atop the Montparnasse Tower 02 Krov zgrade Institut Français de la Mode, arhitekti: Jakob+MacFarlane The roof of the Institut Français de la Mode building, architects: Jakob+MacFarlane

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formation for quite some time now. Lying between the Ninth and the Eighteenth Arrondissements, the Rue des Martyrs has become what was once the Rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter, and this overnight. Not that frequented by tourists, this is one of the liveliest destinations for Parisians in general and food lovers in particular. This is the place to have coffee at or dine in one of the many new and popular restaurants, this is where Parisians buy bread or cheese in one of the speciality cheese shops or fromageries. It’s packed with less expensive cafes, restaurants and shops. This is where the hipster, bohemian Rose Bakery is, a bakery and cafe adored by some and disliked by others. This is where you’ll find out whether Parisians still eat better than in other big cities around the world. The pedestrian-only Rue Montorgueil in the Second Arrondissement is similar, yet somewhat more structured and more expensive, teeming with interesting new restaurants, as well as mobile market stalls where the best quality French foods can be bought. The Second Arrondissement − also called the Paris Bourse (Stock Exchange) − is ideal for rainy days, when Paris is not as pleasant to roam around and explore in the open. There are several fancy passages, the first shopping centres of sorts built in the early 19th century. It would be a pity to leave Paris without a visit to the elegant Galerie Vivienne, perhaps the most beautiful and most fashionable passage in Paris, with impressively preserved antique

wooden shopwindows and a stone mosaic floor. Galerie Vivienne is full of glamorous designer shops and has, for quite some time now, been the headquarters of the Celine fashion house, one of the symbols of Parisian luxury and chic. The Second Arrondissement also houses the lesserknown, yet charming Passage du GrandCerf and the oldest passage in Paris, the Passage des Panoramas built in 1799. There’s no need to start singling out the great galleries and museums of Paris, but if you’re touring the revived, gentrified Ninth Arrondissement, the Musée de la Vie Romantique (Museum of Romantic Life) at the foot of Montmartre Hill, in an area once called the New Athens, is certainly worth visiting. It’s loved for both its exhibits and the cafe in its charming town garden. The museum is inside a villa, which was once owned by the Dutch painter Scheffer, and which had a salon where the most famous mid-19th century French and European artists used to gather, from Chopin and George Sand to the painter Eugène Delacroix, Turgenev, Dickens. Apart from paintings by artists from the said period, the museum also exhibits memorabilia from the life of George Sand, an unusual French writer − of aristocratic lineage, but born out of wedlock − a socialist with an insatiable sexual appetite who decided to write under the guise of a male penname and to live almost like a man. It’s here that you’ll get to discover that hidden Paris from the beginning of this story, where people make love perhaps more often than in other cities.

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LOCATIONS 11 15

2 3 5 4

MAKARSKA CASINO

Kralja P. Krešimira IV 19, Makarska

2 ZAGREB

Nova cesta 97a

7 16 13

3 ZAGREB

Božidara Magovca 3 4 ZAGREB

Hribarov prilaz 6a

ZAGREB

Zagrebačka 40

6 KAŠTEL LUKŠIĆ - SPLIT

12 ZADAR

Biskupa J. Divnića 5

13 ŽUPANJA

Trg Kralja Tomislava 7

14 ČEPIN

Osječka 4

15 KRAPINA

Magistratska 1

16 POŽEGA

Kamenita vrata bb

17 GAREŠNICA

Graničarska 1

Doktora Josipa Omašića 73

7 NAŠICE

Trg Dr. Franje Tuđmana 3

8 PULA

Trg Potarata 4

9 LUDBERG

Trg Sv. Trojstva 24

10 IMOTSKI

Brune Bušića 18

11 VARAŽDIN

Zagrebačka 25

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TOP 10 gradova cities 09 Dublin

Izdvojili smo deset zanimljivosti u našim odredištima koje vam želimo preporučiti u proljetnom razdoblju We’ve singled out some highlights that we’re recommending in the spring period

Dublin - The Irish Dance Party jer Irce ponajbolje definira njihova ljubav prema glazbi i provodu. U tradicionalnom irskom pubu profesionalni glazbenici i plesači organiziraju irsko iskustvo, nešto između kratkog tečaja irske glazbe i plesa i dobrog tuluma. Irsko iskustvo itekako posjećuju i Dublinci u velikim grupama za djevojačke večeri ili obiteljska okupljanja. Dublin - The Irish Dance Party, because the Irish are best defined by their love for music and entertainment. In a traditional Irish pub, professional musicians and dancers see to it that you get a proper Irish experience, something between a crash course in Irish music and dance, and a good party. The Irish experience is very popular amongst Dubliners themselves, visited by large bachelorette party groups or entire families during family reunions.

Brussels 07

Odabrala/Selection _ Nada Mirković Bruxelles - Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée, muzej stripa u obnovljenoj secesijskoj zgradi velikoga Victora Horte, u gradu koji se osobito ponosi upravo biserima tog arhitektonskog stila te svojim školama stripa. Idealno za vedri odmak od EU poslova i administracije. Brussels - Centre Belge de la Bande Dessinée, a comic book museum in a renovated Art Nouveau building designed by the great architect Victor Horta, in a city which is particularly proud of the pearls of this style of architecture and its comic book schools. This is an ideal place for a break from EU affairs and administration.

Ilustracije/Illustrations _ Dinko Kumanović

Bar Barcelona 08 Lisbon 02

Lisabon - pastel de nata u gradu koji obožava slastice, a nebrojene slastičarnice nude lokalni specijalitet, pitu od žute kreme od jaja. Recept potječe iz 16. stoljeća, kad su ga spravljale časne sestre po gradskim samostanima, a danas ga možete naći u svim najboljim slastičarnicama. Isprobajte ovaj specijalitet u slastičarnicama Antiga Confeitaria de Belém ili Manteigaria. Lisbon - Pastel de nata in a city that loves dessert, with countless pastry shops offering this local speciality - an egg tart pastry. The recipe dates back to the 16th century, when nuns used to bake it in city monasteries. Today, all the best pastry shops have it. Try this speciality in Antiga Confeitaria de Belém or Manteigaria pastry shops.

Barcelona - Camp Nou, stadion nogometnog kluba Barcelona, kolokvijalno Barçe, dok još uvijek živimo pod dojmom spektakularnoga Svjetskoga nogometnog prvenstva. Fanovi u gift shopu mogu nabaviti potpisane kopačke, dresove i slične memorabilije. Barcelona - Camp Nou, the stadium of the Barcelona Football Club, colloquially known as Barça, while we’re still under the impression of the spectacular world football championship. Its gift shop sells signed football boots, jerseys and similar memorabilia.

Dusseldorf - Kö kako aleju zovu stanovnici središta Sjeverne Rajne-Vestfalije, točnije Königsallee, Kraljevska aleja, uređeni je perivoj koji je projektirao kraljev pejzažni arhitekt početkom 19. stoljeća. Danas najljepša ulica za šoping na svijetu ujedno je i gradski park, zeleni bulevar s četiri reda platana i čistim kanalom rijeke Düssel. Dusseldorf - Kö is what the inhabitants of the capital of North Rhine-Westphalia call Königsallee, the King’s Avenue. It’s a park designed by the royal landscape architect at the beginning of the 19th century. Today, this most beautiful shopping street in the world is also a city park, a green boulevard with four rows of plane trees and a clean Düssel River canal.

06 Dusseldorf

01 Venice

05 St. Petersburg Petrograd - Marijinski teatar, za čudesne izvedbe baleta Labuđe jezero ili Giselle, koji se svakodnevno prikazuju tijekom travnja. Teatar, otvoren 1860., nazvan po Mariji Aleksandrovnoj, supruzi cara Aleksandra II., uz ponajbolji svjetski balet nudi uvid u život i raskoš carske Rusije. St. Petersburg - Mariinsky Theatre, a place to see brilliant ballet performances of the Swan Lake or Giselle, which are performed daily in April. The theatre house, opened in 1860 and named after Maria Alexandrovna, wife of Tsar Alexander II, offers - in addition to the world’s best ballet performances - an insight into the life and grandeur of imperial Russia.

Venecija - Fondaco dei Tedeschi, renesansna palača smještena na kanalu Grande, uz most Rialto. Glasoviti arhitekt Rem Koolhaas pretvorio je palaču u ekskluzivnu robnu kuću u kojoj uz najluksuznije brendove možemo vidjeti i freske najpoznatijih venecijanskih slikara - Veronesea, Ticijana, Tintoretta. Svakako posjetite krov palače s panoramskim pogledom na kanal. Venice - Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a Renaissance palace located on the Grand Canal next to the Rialto Bridge. The famous architect Rem Koolhaas turned the palace into an exclusive department store, boasting, along some of the most exclusive brands, the frescoes of the most famous Venetian painters - Veronese, Titian and Tintoretto. Be sure to visit the roof of the palace offering a panoramic view of the Grand Canal.

a parlamenta, najveća administrativna zgrada na svijetu koju je diktator Ceauşescu dao izgraditi u osamdesetima, razdoblju velike gospodarske krize, srušivši petinu staroga centra Bukurešta veličine cijele Venecije. Rumunjska upravo predsjeda Vijećem Europske unije i tu je sjedište, a kićeni i kičasti simbol socijalističkog kulta ličnosti moguće je razgledati svakoga dana do 16:30 sati. Bucharest - Palace of Parliament, the world’s largest administrative building built by dictator Ceaușescu in the 1980s, a period of a great economic crisis, when he demolished a fifth of Bucharest’s old city centre the size of Venice. Romania is currently presiding over the Council of the European Union which is now headquartered in the palace. This lavishly ornamented and kitsch symbol of a socialist cult of personality can be visited every day until 4:30 pm.

03 Bucharest 04 Mostar

Mostar - Muzi ki centar Pavarotti, koji su između ostalih velikodušno podržali Luciano Pavarotti, Brian Eno, članovi grupe U2. U klubu se može popiti piće tijekom cijeloga dana nakon obilaska Starog mosta (udaljenoga oko 300 metara), a navečer i poslušati koncert. Mostar - Pavarotti Music Centre, generously supported, amongst others, by Luciano Pavarotti, Brian Eno and members of U2. After you visit the Old Bridge (about 300 metres away), check out the centre’s club which is open for drinks all day long, and in the evening go to a concert.

Atena - Novi muzej Akropole, uz najvažnije arheološke pronalaske od brončanog doba Grčke do Bizanta, s terase šminkerskog restorana i wine bara nudi i senzacionalan pogled na Partenon, od kojega je udaljen svega 400 metara. Muzej otvoren prije 10 godina osmišljen je prema nacrtima njujorškog arhitekta Bernarda Tschumija, koji je kretanje po muzeju ingeniozno organizirao kao uspon prema Partenonu. Athens - The New Acropolis Museum, housing the most important archaeological finds from Greece’s Bronze Age to Byzantium. A breath-taking view of the Parthenon (only 400 metres away) stretches from the terrace of the museum’s fancy restaurant and wine bar. Opened 10 years ago, the museum was designed by the New York-based architect Bernard Tschumi, whose design ingeniously directs visitors to climb the Parthenon, so to speak.

10 Athens

MODA FASHION

Piše/By _ Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografije/Photos _ Franjo Matković

Price on request − inovativni modni brend koji poziva na promjene, recikliranje i održivost Price on Request, an innovative fashion brand invoking change, recycling and sustainability

rend Price on request, skraćeno POR, prodrmao je hrvatsku modnu scenu prije nekoliko godina kad je kći jedne od naših najpoznatijih dizajnerica, Ksenije Vrbanić, krenula u akciju: Gala Marija Vrbanić i njezin dizajnerski partner Filip Vajda dio su nove generacije dizajnera koji odjeću koriste i kao dio kritike društva. Njihov rad nagraen je na Izloæbi hrvatskog dizajna, u organizaciji Hrvatskoga dizajnerskog druπtva. POR je dobio priznanje u profesionalnoj sekciji Modni dizajn. Proučavanjem trendova i socioloških previranja, načina komunikacije i društvenog raspoloženja, oni stvaraju uniseks odjeću koja prati naše potrebe te naglašava dinamiku pokreta i teksturu. Komu je takva odjeća namijenjena?

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− Riječ je o osobama koje znaju što žele. Važno nam je da je odjeća funkcionalna te da služi svrsi jer su to uglavnom komadi s karakterom − ističe Gala. Boje koriste prema raspoloženju, a nedavno su odlučili svemu dati održivu notu: mama Ksenija i njezin brend XD design dali su niz kreacija kojima je brend POR udahnuo novi život. Na stvaranje recikliranih kolekcija odlučili su se nakon što su shvatili da svake sezone naručuju nove materijale i izrađuju novu odjeću dok istovremeno gledaju u hrpe neiskorištenih materijala i arhiviranih XD komada. - Bilo je potrebno samo malo promijeniti percepciju. Moglo bi se reći da je prva kolekcija zimska, a druga ljetna. Zimska kolekcija napravljena je dosta intuitivno, bez razmišljanja o daljnjoj komercijalizaciji, prilično je ekspresivna i zabavna. Ljetna je po karakteru ista, no svaki se komad, iako je izvučen iz arhive i prerađen, može umnožiti na komercijalnoj razini − objasnila je dizajnerica. Općenito nemaju točno definiran pristup; nekad se na arhiviranom XD komadu napravi minimalna intervencija, a nekad u cijelosti mijenjaju funkciju odjevnog predmeta. Bitno im je u tom procesu razbiti inače jaki XD identitet i prevesti ga u njihovu estetiku, koja je suprotna XD-u. Njihov se dizajn prodaje putem web shopa, imaju dostave po cijelom svijetu, a prisutni su i u jednoj koncept trgovini u Amsterdamu. Brend je dobio i niz priznanja; jedno od njih zaradili su na nedavno održanome londonskom tjednu mode. Na reviji su predstavili POR/NO XD kolekciju, za koju su dobili nagradu Ones To Watch Fashion Scouta. Ranije ove godine bili su pozvani na TRANOÏ WEEK showroom s

još dvadesetak već etabliranih dizajnera, koji se održao za vrijeme Paris Fashion Weeka. Trenutačno su u dizajnerskom timu ona i Filip, no često imaju vanjske suradnike. Gala je kreativna direktorica, dok je Filip Vajda dizajner, iako oboje obavljaju sve popratne poslove. Imaju i fotografa, Mateja Jurčevića (Maki Maxx), koji je zaslužan za većinu njihovih vizuala. Mateja su upoznali kad su tražili fotografa koji bi se snimio njihovu prvu kampanju. Tu kampanju možete pogledati samo na njihovu webu. Gala i Filip pravi su kreativci. Oboje su iz Čakovca, no upoznali su se slučajno, kad su postali cimeri za vrijeme studija, i modna je priča počela. Dizajnerica inače obožava slatkovodne akvarije, a trenutačno slaže jedan u Iwagumi stilu. Ideja im općenito ne nedostaje: ovih dana rade na inovativnom softveru koji se povezuje s odjećom i smješta je u dimenziju između fizičkoga i virtualnoga. − Osim toga, pokrećemo i radijsku emisiju. Jako smo uzbuđeni u vezi svega toga jer nam kreiranje odjeće nikad nije bio finalni cilj − kaže Gala i dodaje kako na softveru surađuju s hrvatskom informatičkom tvrtkom Bornfight, koja je zadužena za tehnički aspekt i programiranje. POR je brend koji pomiče granice i posve je uključen u sadašnje stanje stvari, način percepcije, komunikacije i doživljavanja okoline jer ova je dizajnerska priča puno više od tekstila, šavova i boje konca. Moda je način izražavanja, a odjeća je za Galu i njoj slične autore idealan medij za promišljanje, propitkivanje i poticanje na promjene.

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he Price on Request brand, abbreviated to POR, shook up the Croatian fashion scene a few years ago when the daughter of one of Croatia’s most renowned designers, Ksenija Vrbanić, took action: Gala Marija Vrbanić and her design partner, Filip Vajda, belong to a new generation of designers who use fashion as a means of critiquing society. Their work was awarded at last year’s Exhibition of Croatian Design, organised by the Croatian Designers Association, in the category of Fashion Design. By studying trends and sociological turmoil, ways of communication and the moods of society, they create unisex clothing that meets the needs of people, and highlights the dynamics of movement and texture. Who is such clothing intended for? − It’s for people who know what they want. What’s important to us is that clothes are functional and serve their purpose because these items of clothing have character − says Gala. The way that these two designers use colours depends on the mood they’re in, and they have recently decided to give it all a sustainable note: mother Ksenija and her brand XD Xenia Design gave them a number of creations which breathed new life into the POR brand. They’ve also decided to make recycled collections once they realised that each season they order new materials and design new clothes, all the while looking at a bunch of unused materials and archived XD Xenia Design pieces. − All that this required was a tiny change in perception. It could be said that the first collection is a winter collection and the other a summer one. The winter collection was designed rather intuitively, without much thought given to further commercialisation, it’s quite expressive and entertaining. The summer collection is of the same character, but each piece can be produced in larger quantities commercially, although it was taken from the archive and redesigned − the designer explains. Generally speaking, they have no predefined approach. Sometimes only a minimal intervention is made on an archived XD Xenia Design piece, and sometimes the very function of the garment is changed. What’s important to them is that, in the said process, they break the otherwise strong XD Xenia Design identity, and that they translate it into their own aesthetics, which is the opposite of XD Xenia Design.

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The imperial city

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Their designs are sold online, they ship to any place in the world, and are also displayed in a concept store in Amsterdam. The brand also received a series of acknowledgments, one of which they earned at last year’s London Fashion Week, at which they presented the POR/NO XD collection, for which they received the Ones To Watch award by Fashion Scout. Earlier last year, they were invited to the Tranoï Week showroom − held during the Paris Fashion Week − together with another twenty already well-established designers. At present, the design team comprises Gala Marija Vrbanić and Filip Vajda, although they often have external associates work for them. Gala is the creative director, while Filip is the designer, although they both carry out all the accompanying tasks. They also have their own photographer, namely Matej Jurčević (Maki Maxx), who is responsible for most of their visuals. They met Matej while looking for a photographer to shoot their very first campaign, which is available only on their website. Gala and Filip are both very creative individuals. They are both from Čakovec, but they met quite by chance. During their studies, they became roommates rather accidentally, which was the beginning of their fashion story. By the way, Gala likes freshwater aquariums, and is currently designing one in the Iwagumi aquascaping style. These two aren’t lacking in ideas. At present, they are working on developing an innovative piece of software that links with clothes and places them in a dimension between the physical and the virtual world. − We’re also launching a radio show. We’re very excited about it all because designing clothes has never been our final goal − says Gala and adds that, in developing the said software, they’ve been collaborating with the Croatian IT company Bornfight, which is in charge of the technical aspect of the software and programming. POR is a brand that pushes back the boundaries and is fully involved in the present state of affairs, the way of perceiving, communicating with and experiencing the environment, because this design story is much more than textiles, seams and the colour of thread. Fashion is a means of expression, and for Gala and other authors like her, clothing is an ideal medium for reflecting on, rethinking and encouraging change.

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CELINE, BALENCIAGA, LOEWE, GUCCI, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, CHLOÃ&#x2030;, STELLA MCCARTNEY DOLCE & GABBANA, VITA KIN, MONCLER, MONCLER GAMME ROUGE, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, BORSALINO, IVI JEWELRY, ACHERALI KNOFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, GIANVITO ROSSI, ALEVI, LINDA FARROW LUXE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr

DIZAJN DESIGN

SVJETLEĆE KREACIJE HRVATSKIH DIZAJNERA ILLUMINATED CREATIONS BY CROATIAN DESIGNERS

01 Shift, podna svjetiljka / floor lamp (postoji i niža verzija / also available in a shorter version), dizajn / design: Regular Company (foto / photo: Marija Gašparović) 02 Meridian, stolna svjetiljka / table lamp, dizajn / design: Regular Company (foto / photo: Marija Gašparović / Igor Dugandžić) 03 Meridian, stolna svjetiljka / table lamp, dizajn / design: Regular Company (foto / photo: Marija Gašparović / Igor Dugandžić)

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U prebrzom ritmu života, koji nas sve više udaljava od prirode i sunčeve svjetlosti, osvjetljenje zatvorenih prostora i ugođaj koji ono kreira postaju sve važniji za naš osjećaj dobrog raspoloženja. Velik je izazov dizajnerima kreirati svjetiljke koje će udovoljiti našim potrebama da budu kvalitetne, ali i lijepe. Zapaženo mjesto u oštroj međunarodnoj konkurenciji izborili su i hrvatski dizajneri.

Given today’s fast-paced lifestyle that keeps pushing us further away from nature and sunlight, the way we light closed spaces and the atmosphere light creates have been growing in importance when it comes to creating a good mood. Creating lamps that would satisfy our need in matching high quality with aesthetics has been a great challenge for designers. Croatian lamp designers rank highly amongst fierce international competition. Piše/By _ Mirjana Brabec

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ikola Bašić, genijalni arhitekt zadarskih Morskih orgulja i svjetlosne instalacije Pozdrav Suncu, osmislio je novi projekt nadahnut svjetlošću za Rijeku, europsku prijestolnicu kulture 2020., jer je, kako kaže, tragajući za simbolom koji bi svim ljudima mogao biti blizak i razumljiv, koji bi sublimirao barem najmanji tračak njihove iskonske duhovnosti, pomislio kako bi to mogla biti svjetlost. I to ne bilo kakva svjetlost nego upravo ona koja je zasjala nakon prvog od svih kozmičkih imperativa. U svojem novom projektu ovaj kreator goleme imaginativnosti svjetlosti pridaje mnogo šire značenje od elektromagnetskog zračenja što nam stiže sa Sunca i bez kojega na Zemlji ne bi bilo života: projektirao je multikonfesionalni paviljon koji je nazvao Ekumena, kružni prostor podijeljen na dvije polutke, jednu u polumraku iz koje se usredotočujemo na svjetlost i drugu koja svjetlost emitira iz svemirskog beskraja. Na realizaciju Ekumene morat ćemo čekati barem još jednu godinu, kad će Rijeka zaživjeti kao nova europska kulturna metropola, ali Bašićev nas projekt i u fazi nastanka podsjeća koliko je svjetlost, bila ona prirodna ili umjetna, važna za našu svakodnevicu. Od davnih vremena znali su to i graditelji egipatskih piramida, grčkih hramova i rimskih palača, Michelangelo dok je oslikavao svod Sikstinske kapele, Leonardo da Vinci dok je crtao modele kupole Milanske katedrale, kao i ingeniozni Gaudi, koji je na krovu Casa Mile projektirao terasu s vrtovima kako bi stanari za sunčanih dana uživali na zraku. Zbog svoje važnosti svjetlost je oduvijek bila inspiracija ne samo arhitekata nego i dizajnera interijera, koji imaju dvostruki zadatak: kako danju u zatvorenom prostoru maksimalno iskoristiti prirodno

svjetlo i njegovu energiju koja regulira i temperaturu te kako osvijetliti prostor noću da bismo se u njemu kretali lako i sigurno i osjećali ugodno. Osvjetljenje prostora nije samo pitanje dekorativnosti. Svjetlost, znanstveno je dokazano, bitno utječe na naše fizičko, ali i psihičko zdravlje. U mraku naši neuroni ne izlučuju hormon serotonin, jamac dobrog raspoloženja. Postajemo bezvoljni, depresivni, bez energije. U užurbanoj svakodnevici kad sve više vremena provodimo sjedeći u uredu, automobilu, kod kuće, pred televizorom, računalom, uz mobitele i društvene mreže, osvjetljenje zatvorenih prostora i atmosfera koju ono stvara postaju sve

01 Model 1, podna svjetiljka / floor lamp, dizajn / design: Grupa (foto / photo: Santiago Brotons) 02 Arigato, podna svjetiljka / floor lamp (postoji u 14 verzija / available in 14 versions), dizajn / design: Grupa (foto / photo: Domagoj Kunić)

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03 Hat, viseća svjetiljka / pendant lamp, dizajn / design: Filip Gordon Frank (foto / photo: Siniša Uštulica) 04 Mini Me, stolna svjetiljka / table lamp, dizajn / design: Filip Gordon Frank (foto / photo: Kralj / Vidović) 05 Insert Lamp, podna svjetiljka / floor lamp, dizajn / design: Mirko Miličić (foto / photo: MM)

važniji, katkad odlučujući za naš osjećaj dobrog ili lošeg raspoloženja. Veliki je stoga izazov dizajnerima kreirati svjetiljke koje će maksimalno udovoljiti našim željama da budu kvalitetne, od vrhunskih materijala, ekološki prihvatljive, ekonomične, ali i neodoljivo lijepe. Danas, kada je tehnologija visokosofisticirana, a novi materijali pojavljuju se gotovo svakodnevno, mogućnosti dizajna gotovo su nepregledne. Istodobno, to od dizajnera zahtijeva nemalo znanje: upućenost u nove mogućnosti baš svega i poznavanje iskustava stečenih tradicijom. Ono najvažnije − njihov talent i mašta − podrazumijeva se, kao i uvijek kada su u pitanju kreacije čija je praktična funkcija neodvojiva od osjećaja koji pobuđuju. U oštroj konkurenciji koja vlada na svim područjima produkt dizajna i lightinga na međunarodnom tržištu, zapaženo mjesto izborili su i hrvatski dizajneri svjetiljki čije kreacije predstavljamo na našim stranicama. One već krase mnoge domove, hotele, restorane i radne prostore diljem svijeta, neke od njih ovjenčane su nagradama na prestižnim sajmovima dizajna, neke su zaslužile pohvale Dezeena, Elle Decora, Wallpapera i Vanity Faira, a možda će neke od ovih visećih, podnih, stolnih ili zidnih lampi koje život znače osvojiti i vas.

01 Moai Woodlight, stolna i podna svjetiljka / table and floor lamp, dizajn / design: Lignor (foto / photo: Alma Trtovac, Dražen Lapić) 02 Nun, podna svjetiljka / floor lamp (postoji i stolna verzija / also available in a table version), dizajn / design: Filip Gordon Frank (foto / photo: FGF)

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01 Rasvjetno tijelo / lamp 1S/1M/1L, dizajn / design: Zrinka Nedeljković (foto / photo: Zrinka Nedeljković) 02 Modularno sjenilo iungo / iungo modular lampshade, dizajn / design: Zrinka Nedeljković, ilustracije / illustrations: Tomislav Tomić (foto / photo: Zrinka Nedeljković) 03 Piazza Luce XL, stolić, stolac ili svjetiljka / table, chair or lamp, dizajn / design: Ada Kezić / A1 Format (foto / photo: Dražen Lapić) 04 Piazza Luce M, stolić, stolac ili svjetiljka / table, chair or lamp, dizajn / design: Ada Kezić / A1 Format (foto / photo: Dražen Lapić)

Earth: he has designed a multi-confession pavilion called Ekumena, a circular space divided into two hemispheres, one in halflight from which we focus on light, and the other emitting light from the infinity of the universe. We’ll have to wait at least another year for Ekumena to be completed or until Rijeka becomes the European Capital of Culture, but Bašić’s project, even in its early stage of development, reminds us just how important light, be it natural or artificial, is for our everyday life. The builders of the Egyptian pyramids, the Greek temples and Roman palaces, Michelangelo while painting the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, Leonardo da Vinci while drawing models for the dome of the Milan Cathedral, or the brilliant Gaudi while designing a garden terrace on the roof of his Casa Mila for its residents to be able to enjoy fresh air in fair weather − they all knew how important light is. Because it’s that important, light has always been an inspiration not only for architects, but also for interior designers, who are tasked with a double challenge: how to use natural light in closed spaces during the day and utilise its energy to regulate

ikola Bašić − the ingenious architect of Zadar’s Sea Organ and Greeting to the Sun light installation − designed a new project for Rijeka, the 2020 European Capital of Culture, inspired by light. In having, he says, searched for a symbol that may be close and comprehensible to everyone, one that could sublimate even the tiniest glimmer of our primordial spirituality, I thought it might be light. Not just any light, but the one that’s been shining since the very first of all cosmic imperatives. In his latest project, this enormously imaginative creator attributes a meaning to light which is much wider than electromagnetic radiation from the Sun, without which there would be no life on 04

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01 Papirli, kolekcija visećih svjetiljki / a pendant lamp collection, dizajn / design: Ksenija Jurinec (foto / photo: KJ) 02 Match 1, podna svjetiljka / floor lamp (postoji u tri veličine / available in three different sizes), dizajn / design: Ada Kezić / A1 Format (foto / photo: Dražen Lapić) 03 Lampuli, kolekcija visećih svjetiljki / a pendant lamp collection, dizajn / design: Ksenija Jurinec (foto / photo: Dag Oršić)

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01 Copper, viseće svjetiljke / pendant lamps, dizajn / design: Martin Grubić / Luminis (foto / photo: Luminis) 02 Twenty Five, viseće svjetiljke / pendant lamps, dizajn / design: Martin Grubić / Luminis (foto / photo: Luminis)

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temperature, and how to illuminate space at night so we could move about easily, safely and comfortably. Lighting space is not just a matter of decoration. Science has proven that light has a significant impact on both our physical and mental health. In darkness, our neurons can’t release serotonin, the happiness hormone, which then makes us depressed, lethargic and passive. Given today’s fast-paced lifestyle when we spend an increasing amount of time sitting in offices, cars, at home, in front of TVs, computers, staring at mobile phones and hanging on social networks, the way we light closed spaces and the atmosphere light creates have been growing in importance and are even decisive at times for the way we feel and the mood that we’re in. Creating lamps that would satisfy our need for them to be of excellent quality, to be made of top-end materials, to be

eco-friendly and affordable, yet irresistibly beautiful has been a great challenge for designers. Today, when cutting-edge technology is readily available, with new materials emerging almost daily, the possibilities of design are almost endless. This, in turn, requires that designers wield great knowledge and skill: they need to be wellinformed about the possibilities of many a thing, and well versed in knowledge and skill acquired through tradition. Most importantly, that they’ve got talent and imagination is self-explanatory, as it always is when it comes to creations whose practical function cannot be detached from the feelings they arouse. Given the fierce international competition in all the fields of product design, including lighting, Croatian designers, whose lamps we’re here presenting, rank highly. They already grace many homes, hotels, restaurants, and offices around the world, some of them have won awards at prestigious design fairs, some have received the accolades of Dezeen, Elle Decor, Wallpaper* and Vanity Fair, and some of these ceiling, floor, table or wall lamps will perhaps catch your attention too.

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA CONTINENTAL CROATIA

Sisak − Europski grad sporta 2019. Sisak − A 2019 European City of Sports Piše/By _ Sandra Matijević i/and TZ grada Siska/Sisak Tourist Board

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Sisak ima brojna lica, ali ponajprije je grad obitelji u kojemu je ugodno i lijepo živjeti, a moderna obitelj sve više vremena posvećuje sportu i zdravome načinu života. Malo je gradova kontinentalne Hrvatske s tako raznolikom ponudom sportskih programa i tolikim brojem objekata dostupnim svim građanima. Sisak has many faces, although it’s, first and foremost, a town ideal for families and a pleasant place to live in. Today’s families dedicate an increasing amount of time to sports and healthy lifestyle choices. Only a very few towns in continental Croatia boast such a variety of sporting programmes and so many sports facilities available to all its residents. 108 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2019

isak, grad bogate povijesne, kulturne i prirodne baštine, odnedavno je službeno i Europski grad sporta, čime se pridružio obitelji od 300 europskih gradova i to kao jedini hrvatski grad srednje kategorije (25.000 − 500.000 stanovnika) s ovom prestižnom titulom. Grad ima 70 sportskih klubova u tridesetak sportova i sportskih aktivnosti te više od 4000 registriranih sportaša koji ostvaruju iznimne rezultate ne samo na državnoj nego i na europskoj razini. Posljednjih su godina također ostvareni veliki pomaci na području sportske infrastrukture i sportskih programa te u načinu funkcioniranja Zajednice sportskih udruga grada Siska, što je prepoznala organizacija ACES Europe dodijelivši ovo priznanje Gradu Sisku. Jedan od takvih objekata jest i Ledena dvorana Zibel otvorena prošle godine, moderan i reprezentativan sportski objekt izgrađen na mjestu starog klizališta, doslovno nad povijesnom zgradom stare

pivovare koja je bila jedna od prvih pivovara u ovome dijelu Europe i zaštićeno je kulturno dobro. Novo klizalište prepoznao je i naš najtrofejniji hokejaški klub Medveščak, koji je ove sezone, u sklopu EBEL lige, nekoliko utakmica odigrao upravo u Sisku, a brojni ljubitelji hokeja iz svih dijelova Hrvatske došli su navijati za Medvjede. To je jedan od pokazatelja da ovaj grad ima potencijala i kao odredište sportskog turizma. Sisak je idealno mjesto za one koji, uz sport i rekreaciju, žele uživati i u kulturno-povijesnoj baštini. Većina riječnih, biciklističkih i pješačkih ruta prolaze pokraj objekata povijesne, ali i urbane kulturne baštine. Poklonici biciklizma prepoznaju Sisak i okolicu po atraktivnim biciklističkim rutama, ugodnima za vožnju i idealnima za obiteljski odmor, te često naglašavaju kako neke od najljepših ruta prolaze Lonjskim poljem, koje se nalazi samo dvadesetak kilometara od centra grada. Seoski turizam u okolnim naselji01 Detalj s obale rijeke Kupe A detail of the bank of the Kupa River 02 Utvrda Stari grad The Old Town Fortress 03 Sisak Cycle

Fotografije/Photos: Æ. RakariÊ, D. RogiÊ, T. BaiÊ, B. RoæankoviÊ, D. JekiÊ, D. Andres, M. Holjevac, B. Lee, Arhiv Gradskog muzeja Sisak / Sisak City Museum Archives, Arhiva TZG Siska / Sisak Tourist Board Archives

ma i Parku prirode Lonjsko polje nudi mogućnost bijega iz gradske vreve, uživanja u miru i tišini prirode i čistom zraku. Svojim specifičnim spojem urbanoga i ruralnoga Sisak može ponuditi raznovrsne turističke sadržaje te je iznimno pogodna lokacija za održavanje poslovnih konferencija i seminara, ali i za pripreme sportskih klubova i reprezentacija. Posljednjih godina intenzivno se radi na razvoju sportskog turizma, kojim bi jednodnevne dolaske pretvorili u brojna noćenja domaćih i stranih sportaša. Ono što gradu daje posebnu čar tri su rijeke − Kupa, Sava i Odra − na kojima Sisak leži. I danas su obale rijeka najživlji dio grada, a centar je smješten na obali rijeke Kupe, koja je postala poprište brojnih manifestacija tijekom godine. Sisak ne čini samo gradsko središte jer rubne dijelove grada obilježava industrijska baština, a uz te prostore nalaze se brojni kulturni i sportski sadržaji. Posljednjih deset godina nekadašnji se industrijski div pretvara u grad zdravog življenja i grad obitelji koji privlači mala i srednja poduzeća i pruža mogućnosti svim stanovnicima da ostvare puni potencijal. Zanimljiva povijest i ljepota grada uz brojne atraktivne sadržaje i ljubazne Siščane odlični su razlozi za posjet jednome od najljepših gradova kontinentalne Hrvatske. Sisak i njegovi stanovnici ponosni su na svoju bogatu povijest, a upravo je prostor na kojemu je smješten obilježio njegov povijesni razvoj. Jedan od najstarijih hrvatskih gradova, koji svoje korijene vuče još od 2. stoljeća prije Krista, od vremena ilirskih i keltskih naselja uz rijeku Kupu, postao je jedan od urbanih centara rimskog carstva s odličnom infrastrukturom poput vodovoda i poznate kovnice novca, što ga je činilo monetarnim središtem Rimskog Carstva. Jedan od najvažnijih događaja koji je obilježio ne samo prostor grada nego i prostor srednje Europe bila je bitka s Osmanlijama 22. lipnja 1593. godine, koja je završila pobjedom kršćanske vojske. Kao uspomena na tu slavnu bitku i danas stoji utvrda Stari grad, koja se nalazi na ušću rijeke Kupe u Savu. Intenzivan razvoj grada započinje u drugoj polovici 18. stoljeća, a od druge polovice 19. stoljeća javljaju se i prva industrijska poduzeća poput pilana i ciglana. Zbog intenzivnoga gospodarskog razvoja Sisak je zabilježio velik priljev stanovništva, što je od grada stvorilo kozmopolitsko

01 Djeca na klizanju (Ledena dvorana Zibel) Children ice skating (Zibel Ice Rink) 02 Hokej, utakmica EBEL lige (Ledena dvorana Zibel) An EBEL league ice hockey game (Zibel Ice Rink) 03 Državno prvenstvo u maratonu u kajaku i kanuu na mirnim vodama (rijeka Kupa) State Flatwater Kayak and Canoe Marathon Racing Championship (the Kupa River)

središte. U 20. stoljeću, osim trgovine i obrta, najjača gospodarska grana postaje industrija, koja je dovela do intenzivne izgradnje grada i povećanja broja stanovnika stvorivši jedan od najjačih industrijskih centara u bivšoj državi. Planirate li posjet Sisku, predlažemo da najprije popijete kavu u srcu grada, u jednom od kafića na Šetnici Slave Striegla s pogledom na rijeku Kupu, ali i na Stari most, vizualni simbol grada Siska, koji povezuje stari i novi dio grada. Nakon kavice razgledajte lokalitete industrijske baštine (Granik, Postav riječnog brodarstva, brod Biokovo, Holandska kuća). Na putu do utvrde Stari grad proći ćete pokraj arheološkog parka Siscia in situ s ostacima rimske arhitekture, a detaljniju priču o povijesti grada svakako možete saznati u Gradskom muzeju. Utvrda Stari grad spomenik je nulte kategorije i kulturno dobro nacionalnoga značaja te simbol

pobjede nad Osmanlijama, a jedan je od rijetko očuvanih primjeraka fortifikacijske arhitekture toga doba. Nova pješačka zona izgrađena u središtu grada i Šetnica Slave Striegla neke su od najljepših lokacija za održavanje brojnih događanja. Kupske noći, turističko-sportska manifestacija koja se održava prvog vikenda u mjesecu rujnu, Sajam cvijeća, koji cijeli grad okruži cvjetnim mirisima, Festival piva i Festival vina, na kojima posjetitelji uživaju uz dobru kapljicu u bogatoj gastronomskoj ponudi i odličnoj glazbi, samo su neka od zanimljivih događanja. Sisak je prometno iznimno dobro povezan s ostatkom Hrvatske. Od glavnoga grada Zagreba udaljen je samo 60 kilometara, a najbliža zračna luka udaljena je tek 50 kilometara. U Sisak možete vlakom, autobusom ili, najbrže, osobnim automobilom.

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01 Memorijalni turnir Domagoj Nedug (Sportska dvorana Brezovica) Domagoj Nedug Memorial Tournament (Brezovica Sports Hall) 02 Trening plivačkog kluba (Olimpijski bazen ŠRC Sisak) A swimming club training (Olympic-size swimming pool, Sisak Sports and Recreation Centre) 03 Nogometna utakmica mlađih uzrasta (Gradski stadion) A youth football match (City Stadium)

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isak, a city with a rich historical, cultural and natural heritage, was recently named an official 2019 European City of Sports. With this prestigious title, it joined a family of 300 European cities as the only Croatian city in the category of medium-sized cities (25,000-500,000 inhabitants). Sisak boasts 70 sports clubs in some thirty sports and sporting activities, and over 4,000 registered athletes who’ve been achieving outstanding results not only at state, but also at European level. In recent years, major shifts have also been made in the field of sports infrastructure and sports programmes, and in the way that the Community of Sports Associations of the City of Sisak functions. This was recognised by the ACES Europe association which gave the title of a European City of Sports to the city of Sisak. One of these facilities is the Zibel Ice Rink opened last year, a modern and representative sports facility built on the site of the old ice rink, literally over the historic building of the old brewery. This was one of the first breweries in this part of Europe, and is today a protected cultural heritage site. This was recognised by Croatia’s most successful hockey club, namely Medveščak, which played a few games in Sisak this season as part of the EBEL league, with many hockey fans from all over Croatia having arrived in Sisak to cheer the Medvjedi (Medveščak’s nickname, which translates as the Bears) on. Sisak is an ideal place for those who, besides sports and recreation, also wish to take in culture and history. Most of the river paths, bicycle and hiking trails go past

buildings which are historical and urban cultural landmarks. Cycling enthusiasts have recognised the attractive cycling routes in Sisak and its surroundings, which offer a pleasant ride and are ideal for family vacations, often highlighting that some of the most beautiful routes pass through Lonjsko Polje, which is as little as twenty kilometres from the city centre. Rural tourism in the surrounding villages and the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park are a perfect place to escape to from the hustle and bustle of the city, where the peace and quiet of nature and clean air can be enjoyed. Thanks to its distinctive blend of the urban and the rural, Sisak offers a variety of tourist facilities and is a brilliant place for organising business conferences and seminars, as well as for sports club and national team preparations. In recent years, a lot has been done on the development of sports tourism, with a view to turning the stays of both national and foreign athletes from one-day stays into multi-day ones. What makes Sisak particularly charming are the three rivers − Kupa, Sava and Odra − on which it lies. Even today, the banks of the rivers are the liveliest parts of the city, with the city centre located on the banks of the Kupa River, a perfect spot for numerous events throughout the year. Sisak is much more than just its city centre given that its outskirts boast industrial heritage sites with numerous cultural and sports facilities. Some ten years ago, this former industrial giant started transforming into a city of healthy lifestyles and a family town, attracting small and medium-sized businesses, and creating the conditions for all its residents to fulfil their full potential. The city’s interesting history and charm, including its many attractive facilities and the friendly residents of Sisak, are an excellent reason to visit one of the most beautiful cities of continental Croatia. Both the city of Sisak and its inhabitants are proud of its rich history. One of the oldest Croatian cities dating back to the 2nd century BC, following the time of Illyrian and Celtic settlements along the Kupa River, Sisak had become one of the urban centres of the Roman Empire with brilliant infrastructure such as a water supply system and a famous mint, thanks to which it was a monetary centre of the Roman Empire. One of the most important events that left a mark on not only the area of the city, but also the region of Central Europe was

a battle with the Ottomans on 22nd June 1593, which ended with the victory of the Christian army. Located at the point where the Kupa joins the Sava River, the Old Town Fortress stands as a memorial to this glorious battle. The city started developing intensively in the second half of the 18th century, with the first industries, such as sawmills and brickyards, having emerged in the second half of the 19th century. Owing to Sisak’s intensive economic development, its population influx was huge, which in turn transformed Sisak into a cosmopolitan centre. In the 20th century, besides trades and crafts, industry became the strongest economic branch, resulting in the intensive development of the city and population growth. In consequence, Sisak became one of the strongest industrial centres in the former state. Should you decide to visit Sisak, we recommend that you first have coffee in the heart of the city, in one of the cafes on the Slavo Striegl Promenade overlooking the Kupa River and the Old Bridge, the visual symbol of the city of Sisak, connecting the old and the new part of town. Then visit Sisak’s industrial heritage sites (Granik Crane, River Shipping Exhibition in the open, Bio-kovo Ship, Holland House). On your way to the Old Town Fortress, you’ll pass by the Siscia in Situ Archaeological Park with the remains of Roman architecture. Should you wish to find out more about the history of the city, we recommend visiting the Sisak City Museum. As a cultural heritage site of national importance, the Old Town Fortress is a zero-category monument and a symbol of

01 Sisački gimnastički vikend (Sportska dvorana Brezovica) Sisak Gymnastics Weekend (Brezovica Sports Hall) 02 Utakmica baseball kluba Sisak Storks (Baseball igralište The Nest) Sisak Storks playing a baseball match (The Nest Baseball Field) 03 Simultanka - Gari Kasparov (Osnovna škola 22. lipnja) A simultaneous chess exhibition - Garry Kasparov (22nd of June Primary School) 04 Revijalna nogometna utakmica Hrvatske nogometne reprezentacije i HNK Segesta povodom 110 godina Segeste Sisak (Gradski stadion) The Croatian National Football Team playing the Segesta Croatian Football Club in a football match show marking the 110th anniversary of Segesta Sisak (City Stadium) 01

victory over the Ottomans, one of the few well preserved examples of fortification architecture from the period. The new pedestrian zone built in the city centre and the Slavo Striegl Promenade are two of the most beautiful locations perfect for the holding of numerous events. The Kupa River Nights (Kupske Noći), a tourist-sporting event held during the first weekend in September, the Flower Fair engulfing the entire city in floral scents, the Sisak Beer Fest and the Wine Festival offering not only good drinks, but many different foods and great music, are only some of the interesting events worth visiting in Sisak. Sisak is very well connected with the rest of Croatia. It’s only 60 kilometres from the capital city of Zagreb, with the nearest airport only 50 kilometres away.

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CIVITAS SACRA INTERPRETATION CENTER ST. JAMES’S CATHEDRAL The Interpretation Center of St. James’s Cathedral “Civitas sacra” opens its doors to all interested visitors in May 2019. St. James’s Cathedral is a part of the UNESCO heritage protection. The project was co-funded by the European Union from the European Regional Development Fund within the Operational Programme “Competitiveness and Cohesion 2014 - 2020. “ Total value of the project is: 36.380.859,92 HRK Part that is provided from the European Regional Development Fund totals: 30.911.666,34 HRK. Implementation of the project started on 15.09.2016.

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REPORT

Integrirani projekt Civitas sacra Civitas Sacra integrated project

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Civitas sacra

ibenska biskupija u uspješnoj je suradnji s Gradom Šibenikom i Turističkom zajednicom grada Šibenika osmislila i ostvarila integrirani program Civitas sacra − Sveti grad. Neprocjenjiva uloga kulturne baštine katedrale sv. Jakova (spomenika UNESCO-a) te obnova palače Galbiani bile su misao vodilja programa. Imajući u vidu krajnji cilj, procvat turizma kao najrazvijenije gospodarske grane u ovome dijelu Hrvatske, program će pridonijeti otvaranju novih radnih mjesta i produžetku sezone. Cjelokupna sadržajna koncepcija obnovljene palače Galbiani posvećena je interpretaciji značaja katedrale i rekonstrukciji ideje žive crkve, pojma koji najbolje opisuje sakralnost koja se osjećala među stanovnicima renesansnoga Šibenika tijekom gradnje katedrale. Interpretacijski centar katedrale sv. Jakova otvara vrata svim posjetiteljima u svibnju 2019. godine, a unutrašnjost palače osmišljena je kao moderna, multimedijalna prezentacija kulturno-povijesne baštine stoljetnoga postojanja katedrale i povijesnih detalja grada Šibenika. Projekt Civitas sacra sufinancirala je Europska unija iz Europskog fonda za regionalni razvoj u sklopu Operativnog programa Konkurentnost i kohezija 2014. − 2020.

ultimate goal − the flourishing of tourism as the most developed branch of economy in this part of Croatia − the programme will contribute to the creation of new jobs and the extension of the tourist season. The entire concept of the renovated Galbiani Palace is devoted to the interpretation of the significance of the cathedral and the reconstruction of the idea of a living church, a concept that best describes the profound spirituality that was felt amongst the inhabitants of the Renaissance Šibenik during the construction of the cathedral.

The interpretation centre of the Cathedral of St. James is opening its doors to all interested visitors in May 2019, with the interior of the palace having been conceived as a modern, multimedia presentation of the cultural and historical heritage of the cathedral, and the historical highlights of the city of Šibenik. The Civitas Sacra project was co-financed by the European Union from the European Regional Development Fund as part of the Operational Programme Competitiveness and Cohesion 2014-2020.

n successful collaboration with the City of Šibenik and the Šibenik Tourist Board, the Diocese of Šibenik has developed the integrated Civitas Sacra − The Holy City programme. The invaluable role of the cultural heritage of the Cathedral of St. James (a UNESCO world heritage site) and the renovated Galbiani Palace served as the programme’s lodestar. Keeping in mind the

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Piše/By _ Ozren Kanceljak

a postoji nagrada za svjetski najuspješniji nepoznati hrvatski projekt za 2018. godinu, glatko bi je mogao dobiti Tom Pasanec. Samo je u prošloj godini prema podacima specijalizirane internetske platforme Traxsource njegov projekt PEZNT osvojio 11. mjesto za najboljeg house izvođača na svijetu, 14. mjesto za najboljeg izvođača elektroničke glazbe te 20. mjesto za najboljeg tech house umjetnika. Osim toga, dobili su i nagradu Ambasador za singl godine Toxic Love, koji je izdao renomirani house label Defected. Mixmag Adria njegov je Blacksoul Music proglasio najboljom regionalnom etiketom elektroničke glazbe. Pasanec je predstavnik i organizator Defected Recordsa, najjačega regionalnog festivala house glazbe koji već godinama na jadransku obalu dovodi najpoznatija

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svjetska imena tog žanra. Lani je svojim produkcijama ušao i na američko tržište te mu je snimke počeo objavljivati i veliki Warner/Atlantic Records. Nakon više od 100 produkcija i izdanja Blacksoul Musica, činjenice da mu je pjesma Can’t Help Myself koju je snimio s Williamom H. Macyjem licencirana za američku TV seriju Shameless te poslije svega što se na međunarodnoj sceni dogodilo, vrijeme je da ga pobliže upoznamo. Projekt PEZNT osvaja top liste širom svijeta. Vrijedi li i za Vas krilatica o 10.000 sati rada koji stoje iza uspjeha preko noći? − Da barem. Taj uspjeh preko noći traje od 1994. godine, kada sam s 14 godina zaradio prvi novac za rad na Radiju Kutini. To je ujedno bila moja prva zarada od glazbe. Nikada nisam odustao od ciljeva koje sam si zacrtao kao klinac.

Radeći prijašnjih godina u SAD-u, u IT industriji, jeste li glazbu morali gurnuti u drugi plan? − Obožavam multitasking. I prije međunarodne informatičke karijere radio sam dva posla jer je bilo nemoguće opstati samo baveći se elektroničkom glazbom. Nije bilo lako, ali mi je to financijski omogućilo da ne pristajem na kompromise u vezi s kvalitetom glazbe. Kako se točno razvijao Vaš put? − U prošlih 25 godina bilo je poprilično prekretnica, ali najveća se dogodila krajem 2016. godine, kada sam dao otkaz na visokoj menadžerskoj poziciji. Vratio sam se u Hrvatsku i potpuno posvetio onome što živim, a to je glazba. U tom prijelaznom procesu nastao je i PEZNT, trenutno jedan od najuspješnijih projekata iz regije koji se nalazi u vrhu svjetske house scene. Što sve istodobno radite? Producirate druge izvođače, imate vlastito izdavaštvo, radite za druge pa i najveće izdavačke kuće, imate svoj projekt PEZNT… − Radim sve. Od menadžmenta, administracije do produkcije glazbe i poslova DJ-a. Studio/produkcija i sve oko PEZNTa traje barem 8−9 sati dnevno, a onda se prebacim u traganje za novim izvođačima, brigu o postojećim umjetnicima koje predstavljam te rad na umjetničkom i kreativnom razvoju labela. Posao nikada ne prestaje. Što za Vas znači projekt PEZNT, čiji su singlovi lani uletjeli na vrhove svjetskih top lista? − Želim da PEZNT bude sinonim za odličnu mjuzu i zabavu, to jest hedonizam. Rastemo brže nego što sam planirao i nedavno smo potpisali ugovor s britanskim Tsumi managementom da nas pomognu dignuti na još višiu razinu. Osim što se i zovete seljaci (engl. peasant) i to ime pišete fonetski PEZNT, i svojim stvarima dajete duhovita imena: Peznt, Burek, Kaymak, Gregada, Yogurt, Sarma, Biska… Kako to zvuči kad čujete strane DJ-e da ih izvode ili najavljuju? − Život bi trebao biti uživanje. Ideja je bila da se kroz sve provuče zezancija. Od imena projekta do imena pjesama. Tko bi očekivao da će netko tko se doslovce zove seljak dosegnuti vrh svjetske elektroničke scene? Doduše, smatram da smo na tek 30 posto kapaciteta.

Fotografije/Photos: Blacksoul Records arhiva/archives

UKRATKO... O GLAZBI IN BRIEF... ABOUT MUSIC

Kad su Vas prvi veliki DJ-i počeli puštati u svojim setovima? − Svaki put osjetim leptiriće kada se nešto takvo dogodi. Sve je krenulo s Burekom, izdanim za moj Blacksoul Music. Činjenica da netko tko ti je uzor radi zajedno s tobom u studiju, ili kad netko tko je pokrenuo cijeli house pokret u osamdesetima uzme za vrijeme našeg nastupa mikrofon i krene jammati zajedno s tobom, govori gdje smo. Koji su najljepši trenuci karijere? − Ima ih jako puno, ali ono što je ujedno bilo i priznanje za prijašnja dostignuća jest dan kada je Blacksoul Music postao dio line-upa i lokalni partner u promociji festivala Defected. Kada su u pitanju glazbeni radovi, to je definitivno trenutak potpisivanja izdanja za Defected, najjači label i instituciju house glazbe u svijetu gdje nam je izašao i zadnji single Freedom. Istaknuo bih i potpisivanje za Dirtybird Records Claudea VonStrokea, koji je prošle godine DJ MAG proglasio najboljim labelom za elektroničku glazbu u Sjevernoj Americi, te ulazak u veću ligu s nekoliko izdanja potpisanih za Warner/ Atlanticov label za elektroničku glazbu Big Beat. Što se sada radi? − Završili smo prvi album PEZNT-a pod sarkastičnim imenom Paid In Full. Trebao bi izaći u lipnju u dvostrukom vinilnom i digitalnom formatu. Osobito sam ponosan na to što nam je omot napravio omiljeni crtač stripova Marvel Comicsa Dalibor Talajić iz Zagreba, koji nas je ubacio u jednu znanstveno-fantastičnu priču. Kamo dalje? − Nebo je granica. Planova i projekata puno, ali bih volio izdvojiti australsku i azijsku turneju u svibnju te nastup na festivalu Defected Croatia u Tisnom, koji bi ove godine trebao biti najveći house festival na svijetu.

f there existed an award for the world’s most successful undiscovered Croatian music project for 2018, it would have to go to Tom Pasanec. According to the specialised Traxsource online platform, his PEZNT project came in 11th in the category of Top 100 House Artists of 2018, 14th in the category of Top 100 Techno Artists of 2018, and 20th in the category of Top 100 Tech House Artists of 2018. The project also received the Ambassador

Award for the single Toxic Love, released by the renowned house music label, Defected Records. Mixmag Adria declared his Blacksoul Music to be the best regional label of electronic music. And this was only last year. Pasanec is a representative and organiser of Defected, the best regional house music festival, which has been lining up the world’s most famous house music artists on the Adriatic coast for years. Last year, he also entered the US market with his productions, with the big Warner/Atlantic Records releasing his recordings. After

− I love multitasking. Even before I pursued an international IT career, I worked two jobs because it was impossible to earn a living as an electronic music artist. It wasn’t easy, but the money I earned allowed me not to make compromises regarding the quality of music. How exactly has your career path developed? − In the last 25 years, there were quite a few turning points, but the greatest one happened at the end of 2016, when I resigned from a high management position. I returned to Croatia and devoted myself

more than 100 Blacksoul Music productions and releases, the fact that his song Can’t Help Myself was − recorded with William H. Macy − licensed for the American TV series Shameless, and after all that has unfolded on the international house music scene, it’s time to get to know him more closely. Your PEZNT project has been topping world charts around the world. Is your becoming an overnight success also backed by 10,000 hours of work? − I wish. This overnight success has lasted since 1994, when I earned my first pay working for Radio Kutina at the age of 14. It was also the first money I earned from music. I’ve never given up on the goals I set myself as a child. Because you worked in the IT industry in the US for a number of years, did you have to give up on music?

to what I love and live, and that’s music. It was during this transition period that the PEZNT project emerged, currently one of the most successful projects in the region at the very top of the world house music scene. What are all the things that you do? You produce other artists, you have your own record label, you work for others including the biggest record labels, you have your own PEZNT project... − I do everything. From management and administration work to music production and being a DJ. Studio- and productionrelated work, and everything surrounding the PEZNT project takes up at least 8-9 hours of my day. Then I turn into a talent scout and search for new performers, I look after the artists I represent, and work on the artistic and creative development of my label. In reality, my work never stops.

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PEZNT project singles started topping world charts last year. What does the PEZNT project mean to you personally? − I’d like PEZNT to be a synonym for excellent music and entertainment, hedonism in fact. We’ve been growing faster than I planned, and recently signed a contract with the UK-based Tsumi Management to help us rise to an even higher level. In addition to calling yourself a peasant and writing the name phonetically as PEZNT, you also give your songs witty names, such as Peznt, Burek, Kaymak, Gregada, Yogurt, Sarma, Biska… What do these names sound like when you hear foreign DJs perform or announce them? − Life should be a pleasure. The idea was to give it all a humorous note, from the project name to the names of songs. Who’d expect that someone whose name is peasant would reach the top of the world electronic music scene? However, I think we’ve reached only 30 percent of capacity.

When was it that the great DJs started playing your music in their sets? − I have butterflies every time when something similar happens. It all started with Burek, released under my Blacksoul Music. The fact that your role model works together with you in a studio, or that someone who set the entire house music movement in motion in the 1980s grabs the microphone and starts jamming with you while you’re performing, speaks volumes about where we are. What are the most beautiful moments of your career? − There are a lot of them, but the one that was also recognition of previous achievements was the day that Blacksoul Music was included in the line-up of the Defected Festival and became a local partner in its promotion. As far as songs are concerned, it’s definitely the moment when we signed up with Defected Records, the strongest label and a house music institution of the world. Our latest single, Freedom, was

released by them. I’d also single out signing up with Claude VonStroke’s Dirtybird Records, according to DJ MAG the best electronic music label in North America last year, and rising to a higher league thanks to several releases signed for the Warner/ Atlantic Records’ Big Beat electronic music label. What are you working on at present? − We’ve just finished PEZNT’s first album under the sarcastic name Paid In Full. It should be released in June both on vinyl and in digital format. I’m particularly proud of the fact that the album cover was designed by my favourite comic book artist of Marvel Comics, Dalibor Talajić from Zagreb, who put us in a sci-fi story. Where to now? − The sky’s the limit. I have many plans and projects, but I’d single out the Australian and Asian tour in May this year, and performing at the Defected Croatia Festival in Tisno, which promises to be the biggest house music festival in the world this year.

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Zagreb

INmusic festival Piše/By _ Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić

In June, Zagreb is hosting a most spectacular music line-up in a gorgeous, urban green lake oasis, and this at the most affordable festival ticket price in Europe. Given the many accolades received from both the national and international media, Zagreb’s INmusic Festival is the place to be. The upcoming 14th edition of Croatia’s biggest open air music festival is taking place between 24th and 26th June on the shores of Jarun Lake. One of the most

01 Glavna pozornica INmusic festivala INmusic Festival main stage 02 Unutrašnjost Teslinog tornja, 360° VJ projekcija The interior of the Tesla Tower installation, 360° VJ screening 03 Publika INmusic festivala INmusic Festival audience 04 Festivalska lokacija, jezero Jarun INmusic Festival site, Jarun Lake

influential and greatest bands of all time, The Cure, are the first announced headliners of INmusic Festival #14, presenting a musical voyage through their 40-year-long and rich career. Alongside The Cure, INmusic Festival #14 is also featuring, much like each year, performances by some of the most renowned artists of the world’s music scene today, including the famed British foursome Foals, the charismatic Garbage, singer-songwriter LP, indie hero Kurt Vile & The Violators, the punk-rock troubadour Frank Turner & The Sleeping Souls, Skindred, Peter Bjorn and John, Sofi Tukker and many more, making INmusic Festival #14 the concert event of the season. www.inmusicfestival.com 04

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Fotografije/Photos _ INmusic festival - Julien Duval

Zagreb u lipnju tradicionalno postaje dom vrhunskoga glazbenog programa na predivnoj lokaciji uz najpristupačniju cijenu ulaznica u Europi. Uz brojna priznanja i preporuke domaćih i stranih medija, zagrebački INmusic festival zasluženo je središnji koncertni događaj u Hrvatskoj. Nadolazeće 14. izdanje najvećega hrvatskog festivala na otvorenome održat će se od 24. do 26. lipnja u okrilju omiljene urbane zelene oaze jezera Jarun. Jedan od najutjecajnijih bendova svih vremena, veličanstveni The Cure, prve su najavljene zvijezde INmusic festivala #14, gdje će predstaviti svoje najveće hitove iz bogate četrdesetogodišnje karijere. Uz The Cure pozornice INmusic festivala #14, kao i svake godine, ugostit će niz najaktualnijih imena svjetske glazbene scene − sjajnu britansku četvorku Foals, karizmatični Garbage, kantautoricu LP, indie miljenike Kurta Vilea & The Violators, punk-rock trubadura Franka Turnera & The Sleeping Souls, Skindred, bend Peter Bjorn & John te Sofi Tukker, ali i mnoge druge glazbene goste koji će se pridružiti izvrsnome glazbenom programu INmusic festivala #14.

www.diners.hr Info telefon 01 4929 555

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Preskoči ratu ili plati sve odjednom. Diners Club. Pametniji način plaćanja. Želiš Diners? Čeka te na diners.hr. Bez papira. 100% digitalno.

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Zagreb

Zagreb Classic 2019 Piše/By _ TZ grada Zagreba/Zagreb

Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti ponovno će, nema sumnje, moći uživati u poznatim djelima klasične glazbe pod zvjezdanim nebom glavnoga grada Hrvatske. Popularni festival klasične glazbe i opere na otvorenome četvrtu se godinu zaredom vraća na travnjake Trga kralja Tomislava, zelenoga parka koji se proteže između Umjetničkog paviljona i Glavnoga željezničkog kolodvora. Zagreb Classic prvi je put održan 2016. godine te je odmah privukao veliku pozornost Zagrepčana i njihovih gostiju. I ove godine od kraja lipnja do sredine srpnja posjetitelje čeka niz koncerata vodećih hrvatskih i stranih orkestara, ansambla, dirigenata i solista. Koncerti su besplatni, a samo trebate doći na vrijeme, rasprostrijeti svoju dekicu na travnjaku Tomislavova trga i prepustiti se glazbenom užitku.

M. Gašparović

Tourist Board

The residents of Zagreb and their guests will once again be enjoying famous classical music pieces under the starry sky of the Croatian capital. For the fourth year in a row, the popular open air festival of classical music and opera is returning to the lawns of King Tomislav Square, a green park stretching between the Art Pavilion and the Main Railway Station. The first edition of Zagreb Classic was held in 2016, having immediately attracted the attention

of Zagreb and their guests. This year, during the course of as many as three weeks (from the end of June to mid-July), visitors are given the chance to enjoy various concerts by leading Croatian and foreign orchestras, ensembles, conductors and soloists. Entry is free of charge, and all you need to do is come on time, spread your blanket on the lawn of King Tomislav Square and indulge in music. www.infozagreb.hr

01 Jedinstvena urbana vizura Trga kralja Tomislava King Tomislav Square’s unique city panorama

M. Mihaljević

02 Ozbiljna glazba pod otvorenim nebom Tomislavova trga Classical music under the stars of King Tomislav Square

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Zagreb ∑ Krk

Od undergrounda do glamura From underground art to glamour Piše/By _ Ivan Salečić

Izložba Ljubav i otpor Ivane Popović u Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti u Zagrebu i galeriji Decumanus u Krku The Love and Resistance of Ivana Popović exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb and the Decumanus Gallery in Krk

A great retrospective exhibition of the exceptionally diverse oeuvre of Ivana Popović (1968-2016), a Croatian sculptor,

S. Joka

Iznimno raznolik opus Ivane Popović (1968. − 2016.), hrvatske kiparice, kostimografkinje, kazališne underground umjetnice i modne dizajnerice, predstavljen je u zagrebačkome Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti velikom retrospektivom Ljubav i otpor Ivane Popović od 21. ožujka do 28. travnja 2019. Povod izložbi, koja uključuje modni dizajn, skulpturu, kolaž, video i drugo, nedavni je pedeseti rođendan

autorice, koji nije dočekala. Porijeklom iz stare umjetničke obitelji − njezin je pradjed bio poznati hrvatski slikar, pionir modernizma Bela Čikoš Sesija − Ivana Popović prirodno se kretala u širokom spektru umjetničkih izražaja. Njezin rad spontano se proširio od klupskih off performansa, subverzivnog projekta Virus Teatar Michelangelo, institucionalnih kazališnih suradnji s etabliranim redateljima regije preko ekskluzivnih i glamuroznih vrhunskih revija svoje modne marke i autorskih modnih dodataka. Od početka prepoznata kao iznimno darovita, ali i svojevrsni enfant terrible ne samo lokalne kulturne i umjetničke scene, Ivana Popović kreirala je i sukreirala neke od najefektnijih, najavangardnijih i najprogresivnijih umjetničkih projekata ovih prostora s kraja 20. i početka 21. stoljeća. Uz umjetnički i dizajnerski rad, Ivana Popović bila je aktivna i u radu na dobrobiti zajednice, posebno u akcijama senzibilizacije javnosti za pitanja zdravstvene prevencije malignih bolesti. Ekološki osviještena, u modnom se radu zalagala za načela reciklaže i kružne ekonomije. Nakon predstavljanja u MSU-u, sažetak izložbe Ljubav i otpor Ivane Popović izložit će se i publici galerije Decumanus u Krku, gradu u kojem je Ivana uredila obiteljsku kuću i koji je također bio važna točka na njezinoj intimnoj i stvaralačkoj karti.

B. Štajduhar

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

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costume designer, an underground theatre artist and fashion designer, is mounted at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb − The Love and Resistance of Ivana Popović − opening on 21st March and closing on 28th April. What motivated the mounting of the exhibition, which is presenting her fashion designs, sculptures, collages, videos and other works, is her recent fiftieth birthday which she did not live to see. Having descended from an old family of artists − her great-grandfather, Bela Čikoš Sesija, was a famous Croatian painter and pioneer of modernism − it was natural for Ivana Popović to have a flair for a wide range of artistic expressions. Her work spontaneously expanded from off performances in clubs, her subversive Michelangelo Virus Theatre project, institutional theatre collaborations with established stage directors in the region, through exclusive and glamorous fashion shows of her fashion label and accessories. Recognised as exceptionally gifted from her very beginnings, but also considered to be an enfant terrible of sorts of the wider cultural and art scene, Ivana Popović created and co-created some of the most effective, most avant-garde and most progressive art projects of the region in the late 20th and early 21st century. In addition to her work in art and design, Ivana Popović was actively involved in working for the common good, particularly in raising public awareness about health-related issues, such as malignant disease prevention. Ecologically aware, in her fashion design she advocated the principles of recycling and circular

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01 Dokumentarni igrokaz (1994.) Documentary play (1994) 02 Promatrači u MSU-u (2013.) Visitors at the Museum of Contemporary Art (2013) 03 Ivana Popović nosi šešir koji je sama dizajnirala za performans u zagrebačkom klubu Kulušić (1989.) Ivana Popović wearing a hat she designed for a performance at the Kulušić Club in Zagreb (1989)

economy. After the exhibition closes at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb, a digest of The Love and Resistance of Ivana Popović exhibition will be mounted at the Decumanus Gallery in Krk, a town in which Ivana refurbished a family house and which was also an important point on her intimate and creative map.

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04 Madona je trudna, ja sam žrtva mode, modni igrokaz (1995.) Madonna is Pregnant, I’m a Victim of Fashion, a fashion play (1995)

N. Šolić

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE Osijek

20th Pannonian Challenge Piše/By _ Pannonian Challenge Fotografije/Photos _ Samir Kurtagić 01

Istočna Hrvatska već gotovo dva desetljeća nosi ugled pravoga europskoga središta ekstremnog sporta, a za sve je zaslužan festival Pannonian Challenge, koji uz adrenalinske trikove najboljih svjetskih BMX, skate i inline vozača nudi i odličan popratni sadržaj urbane kulture. Svake godine u osječki skate park pristiže više od 300 vrhunskih ekstremnih sportaša, čije vratolomije u višednevnom spektaklu prati više od 20.000 oduševljenih posjetitelja iz cijele regije. Po uzoru na prošlu godinu, 20. Pannonian Challenge održat će se od 5. do 9. lipnja 2019., kada će ekstremno dobra zabava stanovati na lijevoj obali rijeke Drave, a upotpunit će je najbolji sportaši iz SAD-a, Rusije, Velike Britanije, Venezuele, Francuske, Slovenije i ostatka regije. Dakle, spektakl je zajamčen na jubilarnome, dosad najvećem izdanju pa će svi posjetitelji modernoga osječkog skate parka moći uvjeriti kakvu je svjetsku kvalitetu festival dosegnuo od svojeg nastanka 1999. godine. Uz BMX, skate i inline natjecanja u gorućoj će se osječkoj atmosferi održati i tradicionalno plesno natjecanje u B-Boyingu, odnosno breakdanceu, što će savršeno zaokružiti urbanu priču, a u njoj će svatko moći pronaći nešto za sebe. Naposljetku, u staroj će se osječkoj jezgri, prekrasnoj Tvrđi, u večernjim satima za vrijeme trajanja festivala održavati koncerti raznih regionalnih glazbenika, koji će najizdržljivijim posjetiteljima omogućiti tulum do zore.

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For nearly two decades, eastern Croatia has enjoyed a reputation as a true European extreme sports hub. This is credited to the Pannonian Challenge festival, which − besides the adrenaline-inducing tricks of the world’s best BMX, skate and inline riders − brings a brilliant accompanying urban culture programme. Every year, over 300 top extreme sports athletes get together at the Osijek Skate Park, whose extreme sports displays and shows have been drawing an enthusiastic audience of over 20,000 from across the region to their spectacle that lasts a few days. Just like last year, the 20th Pannonian Challenge is taking place between 5th and 9th June 2019, when a brilliant entertainment programme will be held on the left bank of the Drava River, showcasing the best athletes from the United States, Russia, Great Britain, Venezuela, France, Slovenia and the rest of the region. This year’s jubilee edition of the festival, the biggest one to date, promises to be a spectacle, with all visitors of the Osijek Skate Park being witness to the festival having reached world quality since its setting up in 1999. In addition to BMX, skate and inline competitive programmes, Osijek’s scorching atmosphere will also see a traditional B-boying or breakdance competition, which is bound to round off this year’s urban story perfectly, a story that caters for all tastes. And last but not least, in the Old Town of Osijek, the beautiful Citadel, during the festival concerts by various regional musicians will be held in the evening, giving festivalgoers the chance to party till the small hours of the morning. www.pannonian.hr

01 BMX finale u osječkom skate parku The BMX competition finals at the Osijek Skate Park 02 Zagrijavanje za SKATE finale Warming up for the SKATE competition finals 03 Marin Ranteš, pobjednik svjetskog kupa u BMX-u, i Šetač (skulptura) Marin Ranteš, BMX World Cup winner, and the Walker (a sculpture)

ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

Požega

Jednominutna filmska čarolija One-minute movie magic Piše/By _ Željko Balog Fotografije/Photos _ Robert Demo 01

Požega, grad u srcu Slavonije, danas je poznata po jedinstvenome Hrvatskom festivalu jednominutnih filmova, koji se održava od 1993. i najstariji je filmski festival takve vrste u svijetu. I ove godine (29. 5. − 2. 6.) nastavlja se jednominutna čarolija. U 26 godina na festival je pristiglo više od 7500 filmova iz 84 zemlje svijeta sa svih kontinenata. Osnovna odrednica jest upravo to da film ne smije biti duži od jedne minute. To se može činiti bizarnim, no već nakon prvog gledanja vrsnost jednominutnih filmova sumnjičavca može preobratiti u poklonika. Kratkoća okvira mahom tjera autore na iznimnu ekonomičnost i preciznost, na jasnu nit vodilju te na naglašeno stilizacijsko izražavanje, a često i na estetiziranje, kako u filmskim tako i u izlagačko-pripovjednim postupcima. Zbog posebne atmosfere svi koji dođu u Požegu osim filmskog festivala pronalaze i mnoge druge sadržaje u kojima uživaju tijekom boravka u tom gradu smještenome u Zlatnoj dolini, koji se prvi put spominje u pisanim dokumentima još davne 1227. Požega je poznata i po baroknom trgu i središte je kulturnoga i gospodarskog života regije. Svi ste dobrodošli! Požega, a town in the heart of Slavonia, is today famous for its unique Croatian One-Minute Film Festival, which has been running since 1993 and is the oldest film festival of its kind in the world. The one-

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01 Festivalski program u rukama gledateljice festivala The festival programme in the hands of a festivalgoer 02 Volonteri broje glasove za dodjelu nagrade publike Volunteers counting the votes cast for the Audience Award 03 Festival je završen dodjelom nagrada (laureati, predsjednik žirija, gradonačelnik, organizatori festivala) The festival ending with an awards ceremony (the winners, the jury chairperson, the mayor, festival organisers)

minute movie magic is continuing this year too (29th May∑2nd June). During the course of 26 years, more than 7500 films from 84 countries from all the continents have entered the festival. The main and sole criterion for entry is that the film must not exceed one minute in length. This may indeed seem bizarre, but once you’ve watched one for the first time, the brilliance of one-minute movies will allay your suspicions and make you a fan. The one-minute timeframe makes their authors be extremely economical and precise, be guided by a lodestar and adopt highly stylised forms of expression, and often resort to aestheticiations in their treatment of both the film-making and story-telling processes. Thanks to a special atmosphere, all who come to Požega have, apart from the film

festival, many other facilities to enjoy during their stay in town, which is located in the Požega Valley also known as the Golden Valley, and which was first mentioned in written documents back in 1227. Požega is also famous for its baroque square and is the centre of cultural and economic life. Welcome! www.crominute.hr

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U sklopu Volvo Car Financiranja pobrinuli smo se za vrhunske uvjete financiranja uz plaćanje u 3 godišnje rate i 0% kamate. Neka Vaša kupnja bude bezbrižna, osobna i ugodna.

PROVJERITE OGRANIČENU PONUDU I REZERVIRAJTE PROBNU VOŽNJU NA VOLVOCARS.HR

Tri SUV brata koji ponosno nose ime marke Volvo te osvajaju akcijskom ponudom i bogatom dodatnom opremom. XC40 dostupan je od 32.990 EUR ili 3 godišnje rate po 10.997 EUR, XC60 od 44.990 EUR ili 3 godišnje rate po 14.997 EUR i XC90 od 69.990 EUR ili 3 godišnje rate po 23.330 EUR. Ne propustite ovu iznimnu priliku jer je broj vozila ograničen!

Prosječna potrošnja goriva: 4,8–8,3 l/100km. Emisije CO₂: 127–192 g/km. Cijene preračunate prema tečaju Eura 7,65 iznose: 252.373,50 HRK, uz ratu 84.124,50 HRK za XC40 T3 115 kW (156 KS) First Edition, 344.173,50 HRK, uz ratu 114.724,50 HRK za XC60 D4 140 kW (190 KS) A Momentum te 535.423,50 HRK, uz ratu 178.474,50 HRK za XC90 D5 173 kW (235 KS) AWD A Momentum+. Cijene ne uključuju trošak metalik boje i pripreme vozila. Ponuda vrijedi do isteka zaliha. Posebni prodajni uvjeti za financiranje vozila putem financijskog leasinga u suradnji s Unicredit Leasing Croatia d.o.o. Financiranje se ugovara uz valutnu klauzulu u EUR, kamatna stopa za klijente je 0,00%, a jednokratna naknada zaključenja ugovora 1,50% od kupoprodajne cijene vozila. EKS 1,49%. Trajanje ugovora o leasingu 24 mjeseca. Učešće iznosi 33,00% od kupoprodajne cijene vozila. Otkupna vrijednost iznosi 1,00% od kupoprodajne cijene vozila. Leasing rata je godišnja, a izražava se u EUR i plaća u HRK prema prodajnom tečaju Zagrebačke banke d.d. na dan uplate. XC60 je najsigurniji SUV i ukupno najsigurniji auto godine 2017 po Euro NCAP-u. Svjetski auto godine je naslov koji dodjeljuje organizacija World Car Awards. Za tiskarske greške ne odgovaramo. Slike su simbolične. Više informacija na volvocars.hr ili kod ovlaštenih Volvo zastupnika.

Volvo centar Zagreb, 01 670 07 00 | Volvo centar Moto-Ris, 01 38 21 570 | Volvo centar Split, 021 260 991

Split i okolica Split and surroundings

selection of works by painter Ivo Šebalj (Zagreb, 1912−2002), whose concept and setup is authored by architect Nenad Fabijanić and Biserka Rauter Plančić. For this occasion, 24 oil paintings have been selected from Šebalj’s cycle My Memento of Barbarism, which he started painting in the early 1990s after the liberation of Knin. www.moderna-galerija.hr M. Mihaljević

Croatia Boat Show

Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Festival svjetla Zagreb

tions and projections at various locations. Through light shows held between 6 and 11 pm, each location evokes the atmosphere of spring in its own way. www.festivalsvjetlazagreb.hr Zadar i okolica Zadar and surroundings

Zagreb Festival of Lights

20. − 24. 3., Zagreb Atraktivne audiovizualne instalacije i projekcije možete pogledati na zagrebačkom Gornjem gradu. Svaka lokacija na svoj način dočarava proljetni ugođaj kroz svjetlosne predstave koje će se održavati od 18 do 23 sata. The Upper Town of Zagreb boasting stunning audio-visual installa-

Tuna, Sushi & Wine Festival

Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings

5. − 14. 4., Zadar Na ovome festivalu spajaju se i razmjenjuju iskustva Hrvatske i Japana uz gastronomski doživljaj. This festival brings together and exchanges the experiences of Croatia and Japan with a gastronomic touch. www.sushifest.zadar.travel

Ivo Šebalj − Memento na barbarstvo Ivo Šebalj − A Memento of Barbarism

M. Mihaljević

XXIII. Uskršnja regata 23rd Easter Regatta

Travanj April

18. 4. − 26. 5., Zagreb Moderna galerija premijerno će predstaviti monografsku izložbu slikara Ive Šebalja (Zagreb, 1912. − 2002.) u koncepciji i postavu arhitekta Nenada Fabijanića i Biserke Rauter Plančić. Za tu prigodu odabrane su 24 uljane slike iz Šebaljeva ciklusa Moj memento na barbarstvo. Ciklus je nastao početkom devedesetih godina prošloga stoljeća, a započet je nakon oslobođenja Knina. The Modern Gallery is premiering a monographic exhibition of a

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Goran Vranić∂Moderna galerija

Ožujak March

10. − 14. 4., Split Na 21. sajmu u Splitu i ove će se godine naći najatraktivniji brodovi na Mediteranu, brodograditelji i proizvođači nautičke opreme, charter tvrtke, agencije, predstavnici marina kao i najluksuznijih automobila. This year’s 21st edition of the show in Split is again bringing together the most beautiful boats on the Mediterranean, shipbuilders and nautical equipment manufacturers, charter companies, agencies, and marina and luxury vehicle representatives. croatiaboatshow.com

10. − 14. 4., Hvar Ovo natjecanje preraslo je u jedan od najvažnijih jedriličarskih događaja godine, a ovogodišnja regata ponovno će se održati na otoku Hvaru. The regatta has become a major sailing event of the season, with this year’s boat race again taking place in the waters of the Island of Hvar. www.uskrsnja-regata.com

FLY TO

Dubrovnik ... All the silver, gold and human lives Can not match your sheer beauty! “Hymn to liberty” Ivan Gundulić

T +385 20 773 100 F +385 20 773 322 E headoffice@airport-dubrovnik.hr www.airport-dubrovnik.hr

Procesija Za križen Following the Cross Procession

18. − 19. 4., Hvar Punih pet stoljeća Hvarani na poseban način slave Uskrs − procesijom Za križen. U noći s Velikog četvrtka na Veliki petak procesija povezuje Jelsu, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj i Vrbosku. Procesija se nalazi na Unescovom popisu nematerijalne kulturne baštine. The residents of the Island of Hvar have for five centuries celebrated Easter in a very special way − by taking part in the Following the Cross Procession. On the eve of Good Friday, the procession connects the communities of Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj and Vrboska. The procession is on the list of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. www.min-kulture.hr Dubrovnik i okolica Dubrovnik and surroundings Tišina, molim! − Dubrovnik i film se vole... Quiet, please! − Dubrovnik and film like each other...

7. − 13. 4., Dubrovnik Ovaj noviji filmski događaj u Dubrovniku rado je posjećen, a posebno je zanimljiva izložba o povijesti filmskih snimanja u Dubrovniku. Although it was started only recently, this film festival in Dubrovnik has become rather popular. The festival’s exhibition of the history of

filmmaking in Dubrovnik is particularly fascinating. www.tzdubrovnik.hr www.facebook.com/Tisina. Molim.Dubrovnik/

days. Thanks to a series of events at Bundek Lake and other locations in the Upper Town, Floraart brings the beauty of flowers to the heart of the city. www.floraart.hr

Dubrovnik FestiWine

22. − 28. 4., Dubrovnik Ovaj regionalni vinski festival nudi vam mogućnost kušanja lokalnih vina proizvedenih na padinama Pelješca i plodnome tlu konavoskog vinogorja. Na festivalu će se predstaviti više od stotinu kvalitetnih vinara. This regional wine festival gives you the chance to taste local wines produced on the slopes of the Peninsula of Pelješac and the fertile soil of the vineyards of Konavle. Over one hundred quality winemakers are presenting their products at the festival. www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com Aklapela Festival

26. − 28. 4., Dubrovnik Ovaj je festival nezaobilazan događaj za ljubitelje klapske pjesme. I ove će se godine predstaviti ponajbolje hrvatske muške, ženske i mješovite klape koje njeguju izvorno klapsko pjevanje bez instrumentalne pratnje. This festival is an absolute must for fans of klapa-style singing. It brings the best Croatian men’s, women’s and mixed klapas fostering the original klapa-style singing without instrumental accompaniment. www.aklapela.hr

Svibanj May Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Zagreb Design Week

7. − 12. 5., Zagreb Riječ je o najvećem događanju u Hrvatskoj posvećenome dizajnu koje se održava u Tehničkome muzeju Nikola Tesla. Tema 6. izdanja jest Changing the Game / Nova budućnost, a država partner je Poljska. Više stotina dizajnera predstavit će se izložbama, predavanjima, radionicama i filmskim projekcijama. Svaki dan završava partijem u ZGDW Dizajn vrtu. This is the biggest event in Croatia devoted to design held at the Nikola Tesla Technical Museum. This year’s 6th edition of the festival centres around the theme of Changing the Game / A New Future, with Poland as the festival’s partner country. Hundreds of designers will be presenting their work through exhibitions, lectures, workshops and film projections. Each day ends with a party at the ZGDW Design Garden. zagrebdesignweek.com Floraart

13. − 19. 5., Zagreb Ova popularna međunarodna vrtna izložba tijekom sedam će dana obilježiti svoj 54. rođendan i produžiti manifestaciju. Uz niz događaja na jezeru Bundek i lokacijama na Gornjem gradu, Floraart donosi ljepotu cvijeća u srce grada. This year’s 54th edition of this popular international garden show has been extended to last through 7

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Art Zagreb

16. − 19. 5. 2019., Zagreb Ovaj mladi sajam središnje je događanje hrvatskog tržišta umjetnosti. U svojem drugom izdanju na sajmu će se predstaviti pedesetak mladih galerija i umjetnika. Popratni program sastoji se od izložbi studenata likovnih akademija iz Zagreba, Venecije i Berlina, predavanja, panela i filmskih projekcija. This recently started art fair is the central event of the Croatian art market. The second edition of the fair is presenting some fifty newer galleries and artists. The fair’s accompanying programme is packed with exhibitions of fine art academy students from Zagreb, Venice and Berlin, lectures, panel discussions and film projections. www.artzagreb.com Pula i okolica Pula and surroundings Vinistra

10. − 12. 5., Poreč Tijekom tri dana ove međunarodne izložbe ljubitelji vina mogu kušati i istražiti vinski svijet Istre. Osim vina na Vinistri se ocjenjuju maslinova ulja i rakije. Izložba

Dubrovnik Card

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Includes free entrance to cultural institutions and public transport rides No charge for children up to 7 y.o. Download the Dubrovnik Card brochure here

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Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery... and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

SHOP TAX FREE IN CROATIA

Spend a minimum of 740.01 HRK and ask for your Tax Free Form TAX FREE ШОППИНГ В ХОРВАТИИ Совершите покупку на сумму от 740.01 кун и попросите Tax Free форму 在克罗地亚购物退税最低消费 740.01 克罗地亚库纳，并索取您的退税单 (Tax Free Form) 크로아티아에서 면세 쇼핑을 740.01 HRK 이상 사용 시 물품 판매 확인서를 받 으실 수 있습니다.

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Thousands se već tradicionalno održava u 2996_HR_Croatian AL Magazine Advert_210x140mm_180525.indd 1 Poreču i svake godine izaziva velik interes. During the three days of this international fair, wine connoisseurs get to taste and explore the world of Istrian wines. Apart from wines, Vinistra also judges olive oils and brandies. The fair is traditionally held in Poreč and has been generating great interest every year. www.vinistra.com Zadar i okolica Zadar and surroundings Wings for Life World Run

5. 5., Zadar Ova globalna humanitarna utrka održava se istodobno na više kontinenata i lokacija. U jednom danu utrka ujedinjuje tisuće ljudi koji svojim doprinosom žele učiniti ovaj svijet boljim. This global charity race is run simultaneously at many locations across the planet.

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of people join with others on the same day in running for a cause − making this world a better place. www.wingsforlifeworldrun.com

Lipanj June Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Animafest Zagreb

3. − 8. 6., Zagreb Riječ je o svjetskom festivalu animiranoga filma nastalome na tradiciji poznate Zagrebačke

škole crtanog filma. Od osnutka 1972. godine kroz svoje natjecateljske programe i popratne sadržaje pridonosi kulturnom životu svojega grada te promociji umjetnosti animacije. The World Festival of Animated Film was birthed by the famous Zagreb School of Animated Film. Through its competition and accompanying programmes, it’s been contributing to the cultural life of Zagreb and promoting the art of animation since its inception in 1972. www.animafest.hr

Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings 19. regata Fiumanka 19th Fiumanka Regatta

6. − 9. 6., Rijeka Ovo je još jedan nezaobilazan događaj za ljubitelje jedrenja. Jednom godišnje okupljaju se

jedriličari iz cijeloga svijeta29/05/2018 na regati Velika Fiumanka, koja se održava na ruti Rijeka − Omišalj. A must for all sailing enthusiasts! Once a year, sailors from all over the world gather to take part in the Fiumanka Regatta navigating the Rijeka−Omišalj route. fiumanka.com 14. Ogulinski festival bajke 14th Ogulin Fairy Tale Festival

7. − 9. 6., Ogulin Svake godine u čast Ivani BrlićMažuranić, popularnoj spisateljici bajki koje rado čitaju djeca mnogih naraštaja, održava se ovaj festival koji rodni grad spisateljice pretvara u svijet bajke. This festival is held each year in honour of Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, a popular writer of fairy tales read eagerly by children of many generations, transforming Ogulin, the home town of the writer, into a world of fairy tales. www.tz-grada-ogulina.hr

15:47

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To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËnu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Hrvatska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the official script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine,

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treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe. Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of influences of different cultures. Its coast is cha-

racterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its

national carrier, as well as other airliners. Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever. If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland. Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna je na ziv novËane je dinice Republike Hrvatske. U optje caju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp), (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje

kre ditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euro Ëekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth. Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Expre ss, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

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Our airport is the proud recipient of the 2018 ASQ Award

Choose your path through the best airport.

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Croatia Airlines American Express kartica - 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potrošene preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja - 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike - 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana - Putno osiguranje - Milje ne zastarijevaju - Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela

PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS

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Croatia Airlines American Express card

- 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users - Travel insurance - Miles do not expire - Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croatia Airlines and PBZ Card Travel

Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica - 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja. - Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaćajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. - 2 kartice − 1 račun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na istom računu Miles & More.

Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card - 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile

VISA Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potrošnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potrošenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna Miles & More milja.

VISA Croatia Airlines credit card Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines standalone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 HRK spent via standalone credit card whereas for every 7 HRK spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Više informacija možete pronaći na:

Please find detailed info at:

www.milesandmore.com

- Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad - 2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account

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NOVOSTI NEWS

Osvježenje zrakoplova Revamping our aircraft Piše/By _ Davor Janušić Fotografije/Photos _ Šime Lugarov

Croatia Airlines iskoristila je redoviti i planirani program tehničkog održavanja flote kako bi istodobno vizualno osvježila zrakoplove. Tako je na zrakoplovu povećan logotip CROATIA, čime je postao još uočljiviji. Nadalje, kvadrat kao prepoznatljivi simbol hrvatskoga nacionalnog identiteta još se više proteže na trup zrakoplova. Vizualna modifikacija eksterijera primjetna je i na donjem dijelu zrakoplova, koji je sada bijel, čime se postiglo vizualno povećanje i elegancija zrakoplova u skladu s vizualnim trendovima u civilnom zrakoplovstvu.Ove je godine predviđeno bojenje triju zrakoplova Dash 8-Q400 i triju zrakoplova Airbus 319. Prvi je među njima obojen zrakoplov Dash 8-Q400 registarskih oznaka 9A-CQA, a sljedećih pet zrakoplova u ovoj će se prvoj fazi obojiti do kraja ožujka ove godine. Sljedeće godine u planu je druga faza, odnosno bojenje svih preostalih zrakoplova − tri Q400 te tri Airbusa (jedan A319 i dva A320).

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Radovi će se obaviti u Rimu i Ostravi kod ugovorenog partnera za ovakve vrste radova, odnosno tehničkog održavanja zrakoplova. Autorica je vizualnog osvježenja flote (kao i prijašnjeg dizajna) kompanijska dizajnerica Ivana Ivanković. Croatia Airlines has used the opportunity that has presented itself during the company’s regular and planned fleet maintenance programme to simultaneously revamp its aircraft visually. So, the logo CROATIA was enlarged making it now more visible. Also, the squares, a recognisable symbol of Croatian national identity, are now also spread lower across the fuselage. There are visual modifications on

Bojenje naših zrakoplova Dash 8-Q400. U sljedećem broju objavit ćemo reportažu o tome kako teče bojenje naših Airbusa. Do sada su obojena tri Dasha, slijede tri Airbusa. Ostatak flote osvježit ćemo tijekom tehničkog održavanja sljedeće godine. Re-painting of our Dash 8-Q400 aircraft. In the next issue we’ll let you know how the re-painting of our Airbuses is going. So far, three Dash 8-Q400s have been revamped, which is to be followed by three Airbuses. The rest of the fleet will be revamped during next year’s technical maintenance.

the lower part of the aircraft too, which are now white in colour, resulting in the aircraft being visually larger and more elegant, and this in line with the current design trends in civil aviation. This year, three Dash 8-Q400 and three Airbus 319 aircraft are scheduled to be repainted. The first to have been completed was a Dash 8-Q400 (registration code 9ACQA). The next five aircraft to be re-painted in stage one should be done by the end of

March this year. Stage two is scheduled for next year, when the re-painting of the rest of the aircraft is to take place − three Q400 aircraft and three Airbuses (one A319 and two A320). The works are carried out in Rome and Ostrava by partners contracted for such type of works, that is, the technical maintenance of aircraft. The designer of the visual revamp of the fleet (as well as of the previous design) is the company designer, Ivana Ivanković.

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NAGRADA AWARD

Naš časopis dobio prestižnu nagradu Marko Polo, nagrada i glavnoj urednici i suradnicima časopisa Our magazine, its editor-in-chief and associates won the prestigious Marco Polo award

aš časopis Croatia dobio je prestižnu nagradu za najbolji hrvatski turistički promotivni magazin. Dodjela nagrada Marko Polo ∑ slavni putopisac održana je 13. prosinca 2018. u Hrvatskom novinarskom društvu u Zagrebu na tradicionalnoj manifestaciji koju organizira Hrvatska udruga turističkih novinara i pisaca u turizmu (FIJET Hrvatska) u suradnji sa Zborom turističkih novinara Hrvatskoga novinarskog društva. Svrha je nagrade doprinos daljnjoj popularizaciji i afirmaciji turističkog novinarstva, ponajprije putopisne reportaže, te priznanje dugogodišnjem radu i doprinosu turističkom novinarstvu i promicanju visokih etičkih i profesionalnih standarda turističkoga novinarstva. Posebno priznanje za dugogodišnji doprinos popularizaciji i afirmaciji turističkoga novinarstva te promicanje hrvatskog turizma dobila je Ksenija Žlof, glavna urednica ovoga putnog časopisa već gotovo punih 25 godina.

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Osobito nas raduje što su nagradu dobila i dva naša suradnika. Putopisac i fotograf Saša Pjanić osvojio je nacionalnu nagradu Marko Polo grand prix za svoju foto-putopisnu reportažu Bilogora ∑ ljepota slobodnog spusta, koja je objavljena u našemu putnom časopisu u proljeće 2016., a naša dugogodišnja suradnica, novinarka Davorka Vukov Colić, lani je dobila nagradu za tekst o Dori Pejačević s naslovom Tiha oaza prve hrvatske skladateljice - Našice. Ponosnom uredničkom timu čestitali su i nagrade nam uručili Tijani Haddad, predsjednik Međunarodne udruge turističkih novinara i pisaca u turizmu (FIJET), i Tina Čubrilo, predsjednica FIJET-a Hrvatska.

journalism in particular, to the recognition of long-standing contribution to tourist journalism, and to the promotion of the high ethical and professional standards of tourist journalism. A special prize for her long-standing contribution to the popularisation and affirmation of tourist journalism and the promotion of Croatian tourism was presented to Ksenija Žlof, who’s been the editor-in-chief of our inflight magazine for nearly 25 years. We’re particularly pleased that two of our associates were also awarded. Saša Pjanić, a travel writer and photographer, won the national Marco Polo Grand Award for his photo-travel piece Bilogora, the beauty of free ride, published in the spring 2016 issue of our inflight magazine. Last year, the same award was given to another of our long-time contributors, journalist Davorka Vukov Colić, for her text about Dora Pejačević, The quiet oasis of the first Croatian woman composer (Našice). The proud editorial team was presented the awards and congratulated by Mr Tijani Haddad, President of the World Federation of Travel Journalists and Writers (FIJET), and Ms Tina Čubrilo, President of FIJET Croatia. Our magazine, in which we’re happy to promote culture, heritage, natural beauties and various interesting topics from Croatia and the world, is put out four times a year. The first issue was published in 1994, which means that this year marks the 25th anniversary of its publication.

Naš časopis, u kojem s radošću promičemo kulturu, baštinu, prirodne ljepote i različite zanimljivosti iz naše zemlje i svijeta, izlazi četiri puta na godinu. Prvi broj je objavljen 1994., što znači da ove godine obilježavamo 25 obljetnicu njegova izlaženja.

ur inflight magazine, Croatia, won the prestigious award for best Croatian promotional travel magazine. The Marco Polo ∑ Famous Travel Writer awards ceremony was held on 13th December 2018 at the Croatian Journalists’ Association in Zagreb at a traditional event organised by the Croatian Association of Travel Journalists and Writers (FIJET Croatia) in collaboration with the Tourist Journalists Assembly of the Croatian Journalists’ Association. The award aims to contribute to the further popularisation and affirmation of tourist journalism in general and travel

01 Širi tim Croatia Airlinesa na uručenju nagrade s Tinom Čubrilo, predsjednicom FIJET-a Hrvatska The extended Croatia Airlines team at the awards ceremony with Ms Tina Čubrilo, President of FIJET Croatia 02 Članovi užeg uredništva/core editorial team members (slijeva nadesno/from left to right): Gabrijela Lochert (oglasi/advertising), Nenad Vujošević (prijelom/layout), Ksenija Žlof (glavna urednica/editor-in-chief), Damir Fabijanić (prvi urednik fotografije/the magazine’s first editor of photography), Ivana Ivanković (dizajn/design)

NENAD VUJOŠEVIĆ DESIGNER

rije gotovo četvrt stoljeća upoznala sam našeg Nenu. Našega dizajnera Nenada Vujoševića, koji je zauvijek ostao dio nas jer je svakome od nas ostavio dio sebe. U mali kafić u Petrovoj ulici došao je s dizajnericom Ivanom − a sve su radili zajedno − dok smo urednik fotografije Damir i ja u susjednoj tiskari upravo završavali drugi broj našega putnog časopisa. Trebalo je proširiti ekipu i oni su došli o tome s nama razgovarati. Ivana nas je pažljivo i ozbiljno slušala, ništa nije govorila, a šutio je i Neno, ali njegove su oči blistale i govorile: Ja sam za, ja sam jako za. Ubrzo, Ivana se zaposlila kod nas, a Neno je postao njezin neprocjenjivo važan suradnik. I tako je počela naša priča: jedinstvena, neponovljiva, posebna, baš kakav je bio i Neno. Od početka naš, ali ipak uvijek potpuno svoj. Poseban, vjeran sebi, nekonvencionalan i drukčiji. Neno je imao san, a san je bio stvoriti najbolji putni časopis. Živio je za naš časopis, bio je njegova duša... dobra duša, topla duša... Izgarao je za časopis. Znali smo mi utonuti i u gorljive rasprave o tome što bi za časopis bilo bolje, znalo je oko toga i zaiskriti, ali uvijek je sve završavalo hepi endom jer su to bile strastvene rasprave, onakve kakve više spajaju nego razdvajaju jer su dio istog sna. I tako su nas svaki put još više zbližile. Bez Nene naš časopis sigurno ne bi bio ovakav kakav je danas. Zato je tako neizmjerno tužno, teško i bolno što Neno nije više imao snage doći i s nama podijeliti radost zbog nagrade koju smo nedavno primili... No u mislima možemo dočarati koliko bi u tome uživao. Sama pomisao na njegovo veselje i na njegov osmijeh

kojim bi nas sve obasjao − da je u tom trenutku mogao biti s nama − ispunja nas toplinom i ohrabruje da nastavimo dalje, ne samo zbog nas nego i za njega. I zato mu hvala na svemu. Dragi Neno, strašno će mi nedostajati naši beskrajni razgovori na putu do tiskare u Čakovcu i natrag, s puno zafrkancije i naizgled lepršavi ali zapravo ozbiljni jer su bili duboko smisleni. O umjetnosti, filmovima, glazbi, dobrim dokumentarcima, politici, ljudima, o običnim svakodnevnim stvarima i o ovom čudesnom svijetu oko nas u koji smo tako neobjašnjivo uronjeni. Ti si saznao tajnu prije nas. Leti mirno nebeskim visinama, sanjaj bezbrižno među oblacima samo svoje snove, a mi te nikad nećemo zaboraviti. Tvoje mjesto među nama zauvijek će ostati samo tvoje. Neka te čuvaju anđeli. Tvoja urednica Ksenija

ur designer Nenad Vujošević, our Neno, has become a part of us for good because he left a part of himself to each and every one of us. I met him almost twenty-five years ago. He came to a small cafe on Petrova Street with our designer Ivana − the two did everything together − while our Editor of Photography Damir and I were about to finish the second issue of our inflight magazine in a neighbouring printing house. The team needed expanding and so they came to discuss it with us. Ivana listened carefully and seriously to what we were saying. She said nothing and neither did Neno. But his eyes glittered, saying: I’m in, I’m very much in. Soon, Ivana was hired by Croatia Airlines and Neno became her invaluable associate. And so our story began: unique, unrepeatable and special, which is what Neno was like. Ours from the very beginning, but still and always his very own. Special, true to himself, unconventional and different. Neno had a dream, and his dream was to create the best possible inflight magazine. He lived for our magazine, he was its soul... a good soul, a warm soul... There were times when we’d have heated arguments about what was better for our magazine, sparks would even be flying, but

IN MEMORIAM

they always ended with a happy ending, because these were passionate discussions, the kind that brings people together rather than pushes them apart because they’re part of the same dream. And so they kept bringing us together every time. Without Neno, our magazine would most certainly not be what it is today. This is why it’s so incredibly sad, difficult and painful to know that Neno didn’t have the strength to come and share with us the feeling of happiness because of the award we’ve recently received... But what we can do is imagine just how much he would have enjoyed it. The very thought of his joyfulness and his smile that would light up the room − if only he could have been there with us − fills our hearts and encourages us to move on. Not only for our sake, but for his sake too. Which is why we thank him for everything. Dear Neno, I’ll miss our endless conversations on our way to the printing office in Čakovec and back terribly, the fun we’d have and what may have seemed as chitchat, but was in fact serious conversation because it was always deeply meaningful. About art, movies, music, good documentaries, politics, people, about ordinary everyday things and about this wonderful world around us which we’re so inexplicably immersed in. You got to find out the secret before us. Fly peacefully in the realm of heavenly heights, dream your dreams serenely in the skies. We’ll never forget you. Your place amongst us will always be only yours. May the angels watch over you. Your editor Ksenija

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NOVOSTI U LJETNOM REDU LETENJA

Naši će zrakoplovi tijekom ovogodišnje turističke sezone u redovitom prometu letjeti u 38 europskih odredišta u 24 države. Pritom će Zagreb biti izravno povezan sa 24 europska odredišta u 22 države. Pojačan nalet na redovitim linijama počinje uoči uskrsnih blagdana, koji tradicionalno predstavljaju početak turističke sezone u Hrvatskoj, nakon čega se postupno uvode i mnoge sezonske linije iz najvažnijih emitivnih tržišta. U jeku turističke sezone imat ćemo u prosjeku 105 letova na dan. Naši će zrakoplovi i ove sezone letjeti u svih 10 odredišta koja su u mrežu letova uključena u posljednje tri godine − Lisabon, Milano, Prag, Sankt Peterburg, Stockholm, Oslo, Helsinki, Bukurešt, Dublin i Mostar, kao i na sezonskim linijama Split−Kopenhagen i Dubrovnik− München, koje su uvedene lani. Na redovitoj međunarodnoj liniji Zagreb− Dublin uvodi se dodatni let utorkom tako da će vam na ovoj liniji biti na raspolaganju tri leta na tjedan − utorkom, četvrtkom i nedjeljom. Nastavljaju se i cjelogodišnji letovi na liniji Zagreb−Mostar. S obzirom na to da je međunarodna mreža odredišta Croatia Airlinesa značajno proširena u posljednje tri godine, kompanija će ove godine nastojati optimizirati ukupan broj ponuđenih sjedala te tako povećati putnički promet i prosječnu popunjenost putničke kabine (PLF). Za potrebe turističke sezone kompanija će, svjesna potreba svojih putnika, u razdoblju od travnja do listopada kao i prethodne dvije godine unajmiti dva zrakoplova CRJ1000 sa 100 sjedala. Naše ponude s detaljnijim informacijama možete pronaći na www.croatiaairlines. hr ili na brojevima telefona +385 1 6676 555 i 072 500 505 (samo za pozive iz Hrvatske) te na drugim prodajnim mjestima.

NEWS IN THE SUMMER TIMETABLE During this year’s tourist season, Croatia Airlines will be flying to 38 European destinations in 24 countries, with Zagreb directly connected with 24 European destinations in 22 countries. The number of regular flights starts increasing just before Easter holidays, when the tourist season traditionally starts in Croatia, after which many seasonal flights from the most important emissive markets are gradually being introduced. During the peak tourist season, the company will on average be operating 105 flights a day. This season, we’ll continue to fly to all the 10 destinations introduced into our network of flights in the last three years ∑ to Lisbon, Milan, Prague, St. Petersburg, Stockholm, Oslo, Helsinki, Bucharest, Dublin and Mostar ∑ as well as on the seasonal Split∑Copenhagen and Dubrovnik∑Munich routes introduced last year. An additional Tuesday flight on the international Zagreb∑Dublin route has been introduced. This means that, on this route, you’ll have three flights a week to choose from ∑ on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Our year-round flights from Zagreb to Mostar are also continuing. Given that Croatia Airlines’ international network of flights has been significantly expanded over the past three years, this year the company will strive to optimise the total number of seats offered, thus increasing passenger traffic and the average passenger load factor (PLF). For the needs of the tourist season, the company will ∑ aware of the needs of its passengers ∑ lease two 100-seat CRJ1000 aircraft in the period between April and October, just like last year. For more information on our offers, please visit our website at www.croatiaairlines. com, or dial +385 1 6676 555 or 072 500 505 (available only for calls made from Croatia), or our other sales outlets.

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www.panorama-zagreb.com www.hupzagreb.com

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PODR ALI SMO LENDING OUR SUPPORT

Mala šetnja za veliki osmijeh A short walk for a huge smile Piše/By _ Mirela-Ana Mužina, voditeljica kabine zrakoplova/purser

vorac Oršić u Gornjoj Bistri jedan je od bisera barokne arhitekture sjeverozapadne Hrvatske. Izgradio ga je grof Krsto II. Oršić oko 1773. godine kao ljetnu obiteljsku rezidenciju u kojoj se želio nastaniti nakon uspješne vojne karijere. Jednokatni dvorac ima tri krila, tlocrt u obliku slova U, što je karakteristično za barokni stil, a prostorije su organizirane uzduž arkadnoga hodnika koji gleda prema dvorištu i obroncima Medvednice. U središtu glavnoga krila smještena je svečana Ovalna dvorana, koja je ukrašena iluzionističkim zidnim slikama iz 1778. godine. U desnom krilu dvorca nalazi se dvorska kapelica sv. Josipa, zanimljiva po oslikanim oltarima te po očuvanosti u izvornom obliku. Posebno je naglašen kor s orguljama. Veći je dio kućišta instrumenta još uvijek izvoran, ali orgulje nisu u funkciji. Oko dvorca je nekad bio raskošni francuski barokni vrt od kojega je sačuvan tek nacrt s kraja 18. stoljeća, dok je perivoj većim dijelom devastiran. Život u ovako reprezentativnoj građevini mogao bi nam se isprva učiniti idiličan, miran i opušten. Zato bismo vas željeli pobliže upoznati s njegovim doista jedinstvenim i posebnim stanovnicima, koji ni nas nisu ostavili ravnodušnima. Riječ je o stotinjak kronično bolesne djece o kojima brine otprilike jednak broj zaposlenih. S obzirom na to da ondje borave djeca koju su obitelji uglavnom napustile, ovaj dvorac ujedno im je jedini dom koji će ikada upoznati. U sklopu edukacije djelatnika tvrtke Croatia Airlines, koji se prema planu odvija svake godine, željeli smo u 2018. godini obogatiti naš program jednom novom, humanom dimenzijom. Za provedbu smo odabrali upravo Specijalnu bolnicu za kronične bolesti dječje dobi u Gornjoj Bistri, koja danas koristi ovaj dvorac. Iako njegova prvotna namjena nikako nije primjerena bolnici, a djelatnici teško pronalaze načine za održavanje minimalnih zdravstvenih standarda, već pri

prvom dolasku iznenadilo nas je veselo radno i životno ozračje, koje bismo prije očekivali u jednoj obiteljskoj atmosferi nego u bolnici. U razgovoru s djelatnicima bolnice uvidjeli smo i blisku poveznicu s našim pozivom, a to je odgovornost i briga za život, što može izazvati velik broj stresnih situacija. Tako je ovaj posjet bio i međusobna razmjena iskustava na području nalaženja izlaza u stresnim trenutcima. Nakon prezentacije načina rada ove ustanove, proveli smo jedno prijepodne s malenim pacijentima u šetnji bolničkim parkom. Tada nam se spontano javio naziv ovogodišnje edukacije: Mala šetnja za veliki osmijeh u dječjoj bolnici u Bistri; naime, taj smo osjećaj ponijeli sa sobom kući. Imali smo dojam da smo mi više primili od njih nego što smo im pružili. Ispočetka nismo znali o kojoj se težini bolesti zapravo radi, koliko njih može hodati, koliko njih može samostalno jesti i na sva smo ova pitanja tražili odgovore. Osjećali smo i jednu vrstu straha pri pomisli kako ćemo mi njima prići, kako će oni na nas reagirati? Ostali smo pozitiv-

T. Šarić

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Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr • info@dalmatia.hr

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he Oršić Castle in Gornja Bistra is one of the pearls of Baroque architecture of the north-western region of Croatia. It was built by Count Krsto II Oršić in around 1773 as a family summer residence where he wanted to retreat to after a successful military career. Typical of the Baroque, this single-storey, U-shaped castle consists of three wings, and its rooms are arranged along an arcade corridor overlooking the courtyard and the slopes of Medvednica Mountain. The centre of the main wing is where the ceremonial Oval Hall is, decorated with illusionistic wall paintings from 1778. The right wing of the castle houses the Chapel of St. Joseph, whose

painted altars and preservation in original form make it interesting. The chapel’s choir and pipe organ do stand out. A larger part of the organ case has been preserved in original form, but the pipe organ is no longer in use. The castle was once surrounded by a magnificent French Baroque garden, of which only its layout from the end of the 18th century has been preserved, with most of the garden itself largely devastated. Living in such an edifice may indeed sound idyllic, peaceful and relaxed. That is why we’d like you to get to know more closely its truly unique and special residents, who did not leave us indifferent. This is the residence of about a hundred chronically sick children who’ve been looked after by roughly the same number of hospital staff. Considering that most of these children were abandoned by their families, the castle is the only home that they’ll ever know. As part of the annual training programme of employees of Croatia Airlines, in 2018 we decided to enrich our programme with a new, human dimension. To implement our programme, we’ve chosen the Gornja Bistra Special Hospital for Chronic Diseases of Children, which is located in this castle today. Although it wasn’t built to be a hospital, and the staff find it difficult to find ways of maintaining minimum healthcare standards, as soon as we arrived we were surprised by a cheerful work and life atmosphere which you’d normally expect in a family rather than at a hospital. In talking to the staff, we’ve come to understand that there’s a strong similarity to our profession − responsibility and care for life, which can indeed create a great deal of stressful situations. Our visit also gave us a chance to exchange experiences in finding a solution to such stressful situations. After we were given a presentation of the operation of the hospital, we spent an afternoon with the little patients taking a walk in the hospital park. It was then that the name of this year’s training programme emerged spontaneously − A short walk for a huge smile. More specifically, this was the feeling that we each brought home. We had the impression that we received more than we gave. Initially, we had no idea how severely sick the children are, how many of the children can actually walk, how many can sit independently, and we wanted to get answers to these questions. We were, in a way, also fearful of approaching them,

of their reactions to us. We were pleasantly surprised at the ease of communication with them, despite the complexity of their individual diagnoses. A short walk through the hospital park was indeed powerful enough to put a huge, unforgettable smile on both their and our faces. It became clear to us that this is the force that’s been attracting the many volunteers from both Croatia and neighbouring countries for years. If you manage to see past the limitations imposed on them by their disease and if you try to find the child within them, you’ll understand that they’re just like us, that their need for love, socialising, their need to be touched, to take a walk − is just like ours. Between October and December 2018, some 400 employees of Croatia Airlines visited the hospital in Gornja Bistra. In our socialising and taking walks with the little patients, we came up with the idea to help this institution by donating wheelchair raincoats for weather conditions that aren’t ideal for outdoor activities. We’re convinced that these wheelchair raincoats will make it easier for the children to be outdoors come rain or shine. To express our gratitude, we gifted several children, accompanied by hospital staff, a trip by plane. So one afternoon we flew to Dubrovnik − for most, this was their first-ever flight. The hospital staff are optimistic about plans for a new hospital with greater capacity and converting the castle into a volunteer training centre for this part of Europe. But that’s the beginning of another story. For more information about this institution and its residents, and about ways of helping the operation of the institution with a donation, please visit their website at www.bolnica-bistra.hr.

T. Šarić

no iznenađeni lakoćom komunikacije s njima, unatoč najsloženijim dijagnozama. Jedna mala šetnja bolničkim parkom uistinu je dovoljno snažna da na njihovim i našim licima izmami velik, nezaboravan osmijeh. Tako nam je postalo jasnije koja to snaga u ovu ustanovu godinama privlači brojne volontere iz Hrvatske i okolnih zemalja. Ako pokušamo zaobići njihove ograničenosti bolešću i nastojimo u njima pronaći djecu, shvatimo koliko su u svemu slični nama, koliko su njihove potrebe za ljubavlju, druženjem, dodirom, šetnjom jednake kao naše. Od listopada do prosinca 2018. godine kroz bolnicu u Bistri prošlo je oko 400 djelatnika Croatia Airlinesa. U druženju i šetnji s malenim pacijentima nastala je ideja da ovoj ustanovi pomognemo i u onim danima kada vrijeme za šetnju nije u potpunosti idealno te smo donirali bolnici prekrivke za invalidska kolica. Uvjereni smo da će ove prekrivke po kišnom i vjetrovitom vremenu bolesnim mališanima olakšati boravak u prirodi. Kako bismo izrazili svoju zahvalnost, nekoliko smo djece, u pratnji djelatnika bolnice, poveli na putovanje zrakoplovom. Tako smo jednog popodneva otišli u Dubrovnik, a većini je to bila prva prilika za vožnju avionom. Djelatnici ne kriju optimizam kada je riječ o izgradnji nove bolnice, s većim kapacitetom, te prenamjeni dvorca u edukacijski volonterski centar za ovaj dio Europe. No to bi mogao biti početak jedne druge priče, a sve vas koji želite pobliže upoznati ovu ustanovu i njezine stanovnike ili želite pomoći radu ustanove svojom donacijom pozivamo da posjetite njihovu internetsku stranicu: www.bolnica-bistra.hr.

CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2019

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SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

8kg RUČNA PRTLJAGA

HAND BAGGAGE

Dopuštena ručna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda je 1 komad, a za putnike poslovnog razreda 2 komada (težine do 8 kg i zbroja dimenzija do 115 cm) Veće komade ručne prtljage spremite u pretince, a manje torbe označene privjeskom Prtljaga za avion stavite ispod sjedala ispred vas, osim u redovima kod izlaza za slučaj opasnosti. Dodatno, svaki putnik može ponijeti u kabinu: - 1 komad osobne prtljage najveće dopuštene veličine 40x30x10 cm - putuje li s djetetom do 2 g. - 1 dječja kolica ili autosjedalicu ili nosiljku te hranu za bebe - bolesne i invalidne osobe mogu ponijeti ortopedska pomagala ili protetske naprave

The hand baggage allowance for economy class passengers is 1 piece and for business class passengers 2 pieces (weighing up to 8 kg, whose total sum of dimensions does not exceed 115 cm). Your hand baggage must be stowed in overhead compartments. All smaller bags with a Carry-on Baggage tag must be placed under the seat in front of you, except in emergency exit rows. Each passenger may additionally take into the passenger cabin the following: - 1 personal item whose maximum size does not exceed 40x30x10 cm (16x12x4 in); - each passenger travelling with a child under 2 years of age is also allowed to take aboard 1 infant's carrying basket or a fully collapsible stroller/pushchair or a car seat and baby food; - disabled passengers may also take 1 pair of crutches and/or braces or any other prosthetic device.

20 cm 100ml

30 cm

100ml

20 cm TEKUĆINE U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI U zrakoplov se smiju unositi: - tekućine kupljene u duty free prodavaonicama ili u zrakoplovu, pod uvjetom da su spremljene u prozirne plastične vrećice, zapečaćene prilikom kupnje (STEB) i ne smiju se otvarati do krajnjeg odredišta - tekućine pakirane u pojedinačnim pakiranjima do 100 ml ili 100 g u prozirnoj plastičnoj vrećici sa zatvaračem do 1 litre - tekućine koje se tijekom leta koriste u medicinske svrhe ili zbog posebnih prehrambenih potreba (dječja hrana). Ostale tekućine mogu se prevoziti u predanoj prtljazi. LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

Carry-on baggage

10 cm

Please place this bag under the seat in front of you.

The following can be taken aboard our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

40 cm

55 cm

20 cm

40 cm

154 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

- liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food). Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage.

Cruise

o ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI U kabini se istodobno mogu prevoziti samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje mogu putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog veličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplova. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća u poslovnicama. ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN On the same flight, only two animals can be transported at the same time either two dogs or two cats. The transportation of dogs and cats on the same flight is not permitted. A passenger can carry only one pet bag to be held under the seat in front of the passenger throughout the entire flight. Animals that cannot be transported in the passenger cabin due to their size are transported in the aircraft hold if they meet certain conditions. Passengers are required to obtain all the necessary documentation. Animal transportation must be booked in advance at an additional charge to be paid in any branch office.

ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja.

Dopuštene elektroničke naprave: - mobilni / pametni telefoni - tablet računala - slušalice za suzbijanje buke - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji - elektroničke igre - e-čitači - prijenosna / notebook računala - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji - Bluetooth uređaji - kamere - medicinski uređaji - električni brijaći aparati Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja - samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

The use of electronic devices is allowed only in airplane mode. Heavy and large devices must be stored away while the seat belt sign is on. Electronic devices allowed aboard our aircraft: - mobile/smart telephones - tablet computers - noise-cancelling headphones - digital audio/MP3 players - electronic games - e-book readers - laptop/notebook computers - portable DVD/CD players - Bluetooth devices - cameras - medical devices - electric shavers Electronic devices not allowed aboard our aircraft: - electric smoking simulation devices - self-balancing devices that run on lithium batteries are not allowed in either your hand baggage or checked baggage

Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd. ITEMS NOT ALLOWED The carrying of hazardous items and materials in either your hand baggage or checked baggage is prohibited by law. These are explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials, infectious substances and poisons, weapons, compressed gases, corrosive and oxidising agents, etc.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA Svi su obroci i pića u našim zrakoplovima besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem Sky shopu. Za posebne prigode postoji mogućnost kupnje torte i pjenušca koje poslužujemo na letu. Dopuštena je konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih pića koja su poslužena u zrakoplovu. SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS All meals and drinks aboard our aircraft are free of charge, and the service offered depends on the travel class, the length of flight and the part of day of the flight. During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Shop. For special occasions, a cake and sparkling wine can be purchased to be served during the flight. The consumption of only those alcoholic beverages that are served aboard our aircraft is allowed.

www.croatiaairlines.com CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018 _ 155

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Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft. Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

35,8 / 117

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg) 73 500

64 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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158 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 4/2018

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Pula

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