Putni časopis CROATIA proljeće 2021 / Inflight magazine CROATIA Spring 2021 by Croatia Airlines

Proljeće _ Spring 2021

Putni časopis _ Inflight magazine

A. Grubelić

Dragi putnici!

Dear passengers!

Iznimno me veseli što ste ponovno s nama na još jednom od naših letova. Učinit ćemo sve da vas u ovome ljetnom redu letenja u ugodnom ugođaju dovedemo na vaše željeno odredište. Svjesni smo koliko je upravo sada, više nego ikada, važno da se u našem zrakoplovu osjećate sigurno i opušteno. Stoga mi je osobito drago što s vama mogu podijeliti informaciju o tome da je naša kompanija dobila oznaku Safe stay in Croatia, koja jamči da smo usvojili visoke nacionalne i svjetske standarde zdravstvene i higijenske zaštite usklađene s preporukama Svjetskog vijeća za putovanja i turizam. Vaša sigurnost, podrška hrvatskom turizmu i povezivanje Hrvatske s Europom i svijetom ostaju naši prioriteti i u ovim zahtjevnim vremenima. Vjerujem da smo dobivanjem oznake Safe stay in Croatia pridonijeli pozicioniranju Hrvatske kao sigurne europske destinacije. Također vjerujem da će opuštajućem ugođaju u našem zrakoplovu pridonijeti i različite teme u proljetnom broju putnog časopisa. Primjerice, u temi o hrvatskim otocima zacijelo ćete pronaći jedan za sebe, na kojem biste rado proveli odmor. Hrvatska ima više od tisuću otoka, svaki lijep na svoj način i svaki nudi nešto posebno. U našoj gastro temi vodimo vas na Pag, otok nadaleko poznat po svojim delicijama − paškom siru i janjetini. A od naših inozemnih odredišta, ovaj put poletite s nama u Zürich. U uvjerenju da ste prepoznali Hrvatsku kao sigurnu i poželjnu europsku destinaciju, zahvaljujem vam od srca na povjerenju i tomu što letite s nama.

I’m very pleased that we’re together again on another flight of ours. We’ll do our best to fly you to your desired destination in a pleasant atmosphere on one of our summer timetable flights. We’re aware of how important it is right now, more than ever, that you feel safe and relaxed in our aircraft. This is why I’m very glad to be able to share with you the information that our company is awarded the Safe Stay in Croatia label, which is a guarantee that we have adopted national and international health and safety standards in line with the guidelines prescribed by the World Travel and Tourism Council. Your safety, support for Croatia’s tourism and connecting Croatia with Europe and the world have remained our priority even in these challenging times. I believe that, by having been awarded the Safe Stay in Croatia label, we’re contributing to the positioning of Croatia as a safe European destination. I also believe that the topics in the spring issue of our inflight magazine will contribute to creating a relaxing atmosphere on our flights. For instance, in the piece on Croatia’s islands, you’ll surely find one for yourself, one that you’d like to spend your holidays on. Croatia boasts over one thousand islands, each of which is beautiful in its own way and each of which offers something special. In our gastro section, we’re taking you to Pag, an island widely known for its delicacies − Pag island cheese and lamb. As for our foreign destinations, we’re flying you to Zürich this time round. Convinced that you’ve recognised Croatia as a safe and desirable European destination, I thank you wholeheartedly for your trust and for flying with us.

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

8 Razgovor ENERGIJA USPORAVANJA Poznati slikar Lovro Artuković u posljednje je vrijeme u Hrvatskoj održao tri izložbe vidovitog naslova Usporavanje. Interview DECELERATION ENERGY The famous painter Lovro Artuković has recently held three exhibitions in Croatia whose title’s clairvoyant − Deceleration.

Kultura OD ŠEĆERANE DO IMPRESIVNOG MUZEJA Nekadašnja Palača šećera novo je sjedište Muzeja grada Rijeke, u kojemu su smješteni vrijedni eksponati.

Prirodne ljepote NERETVA, VELIČANSTVENA RIJEKA Prelijepa Neretva uvrštena je na Ramsarski popis svjetski značajnih močvarnih područja.

Culture FROM A SUGAR REFINERY TO A STUNNING MUSEUM The former Sugar Refinery Palace is the new seat of the City Museum of Rijeka which houses valuable exhibits.

Proljeće/Spring 2021 www.croatiaairlines.com

Uredništvo ne odgovara za promjene u rasporedu događanja, za otkazivanje ili promjene datuma održavanja događanja nastale nakon objavljivanja časopisa. The editorial board cannot be held responsible for any changes that may occur in the scheduling of events or their cancellation after the magazine goes to press.

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46 Otoci TISUĆU OTOKA ZA TISUĆU MOGUĆNOSTI Kakvo otočno iskustvo tražite? Za svakoga ponaosob izazov je pronaći onaj otok ili onu uvalu koja njemu najviše odgovara. Islands A THOUSAND ISLANDS FOR A THOUSAND POSSIBILITIES What kind of island experience are you looking for? Finding an island or cove that suits you best is a challenge for everyone.

Natural attractions NERETVA, A MAGNIFICENT RIVER The stunning Neretva is included in the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance.

Gastro PAG ISLAND CHEESE, FROM TAVERN PLATES TO MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS Pag island sheep and Pag island cheese are the island’s binding force, its identity code.

G. Šafarek / Neretva

Gastro PAŠKI SIR, OD TANJURA KONOBE DO MICHELINOVIH RESTORANA Paška ovca i paški sir odrednice su cijelog otoka, njegov identitetski kod.

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel.: +385-1-616-00-66 e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Naša odredišta ZÜRICH, KREATIVNO SRCE EUROPE Zürich je idealna polazna točka za istraživanje Švicarske i živopisni grad koji živi tijekom cijele godine.

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Jasmin Bajić

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Our destinations ZÜRICH, THE CREATIVE HEART OF EUROPE Zürich is an ideal starting point for your exploration of Switzerland and a vibrant city that’s full of life all year round.

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić, Anamarija Jurinjak

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Miranda Herceg

Prijelom/Layout

Miranda Herceg

Meridijani AMERIČKI ZAPAD, NEZABORAVNA AVANTURA Idealno mjesto da se prepustimo avanturi jest upravo zapad Sjedinjenih Američkih Država. Stoga, idemo u istraživanje!

Direktor Komercijalnih poslova/ Commercial Division Director Slaven Žabo

Lektor/Proofreader Nevena Erak Camaj

Meridians THE WESTERN UNITED STATES, AN UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURE The Western United States are an ideal place to embark on an adventure. So, let’s go exploring!

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Ana Janković Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert

84 Moda ČUDESAN SVIJET OBLIKA S DETALJIMA Patrizia Donà na umjetnički način dizajnira torbe koje otkrivaju čudesan svijet oblika s naglaskom na detalje. Fashion A WONDERFUL WORLD OF FORMS WITH DETAILS Revealing a wonderful world of forms with an emphasis on detail, Patrizia Donà approaches handbag design artistically.

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tel.: +385-1-616-00-17 e-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel.: +385-1-616-01-02 Priprema/Prepress AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb Tisak/Press AKD d.o.o., Savska cesta 31, Zagreb

ISSN 1330-6278

CHECKPOINT KOMAD

M. Milin

KOMAD voli modu koja se lako transformira i nosiva je cijele godine. I upravo je nosivost i udobnost glavna nit vodilja prilikom stvaranja svake nove KOMAD kolekcije. Mekani i udobni materijali u neutralnoj crnoj, elegantnoj sivoj i bež ili upečatljivoj plavoj i crvenoj dolaze u mješavini lana i viskoze ili lana i vune. Lepršavi krojevi prate liniju tijela, ali ga ne sputavaju nego ležerno pokrivaju kritične točke i ističu ono što želimo istaknuti. KOMAD stands for minimal design and clean lines. The brand is dedicated to simple cuts with a twist and neutral colours, such as black, white or grey, or red and blue if you feel daring. KOMAD collections are versatile, classic, yet progressive, dynamic, playful, adaptable and affordable. KOMAD’s unique designs push back the boundaries of seasonal collections and fast-moving trends, and transform into styles that range from classy office to casual leisure wear. www.komad.com

Vinoteka Winelovers Winelovers fine wine shop Vinoteka Winelovers u Martićevoj ulici u centru Zagreba već je godinama nezaobilazno mjesto za sve ljubitelje finih vina. Birana hrvatska i strana vina, maslinova ulja, selekcija finih destilata, čaše i vinski pribor. Odnedavno je u funkciji i nova online vinoteka s dostavom do vrata. The Winelovers fine wine shop on Martićeva Street in the city centre of Zagreb has for years been a must-visit spot for all fine wine connoisseurs. Choose from a selection of Croatian and foreign wines, olive oils, fine distillates, glasses, wine accessories, etc. A new online wine shop with doorstep delivery has recently been set up. www.vivat-finavina.hr

Light MI Upečatljivi detalji, bilo da je riječ o poslovnom ili životnom prostoru, mogu podići cijeli dojam, no samo je pitanje kojim se elementom to želi ostvariti. Jedna stvar kojom to zasigurno možete postići pomaknuto je rasvjetno tijelo. Light MI proizvodi mogu se naručiti i razgledati putem službene stranice na Facebooku i na Instagramu. Striking decor details can create a strong impression, regardless of whether it’s your office or home. The only question is which decor element will get you the desired result. A unique light fitting can certainly achieve this. Light MI products are orderable on their official Facebook page and Instagram. www.facebook.com/lightmidesign/

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RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

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Slikar Lovro Artuković u posljednje vrijeme održao je u Hrvatskoj tri izložbe vidovitog naslova Usporavanje. Jesu li one referenca na način života kakav upravo vodimo ili nešto drugo, saznajemo u razgovoru s ovim renomiranim umjetnikom, priznatim i poznatim i izvan granica domovine. Painter Lovro Artuković has recently held three exhibitions in Croatia whose title seems almost clairvoyant − Deceleration. In an interview with this renowned artist, who’s been recognised and acclaimed even beyond the borders of his homeland, we find out whether the title’s a reference to the life we’ve been living or something else.

LOVRO ARTUKOVIĆ

Piše/By _ Ksenija Žlof Fotografije/Phots _ Ivan Posavec i/and Gunter Lepkowski

CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

proteklih nekoliko mjeseci Lovro Artuković, renomirani hrvatski slikar koji već 17 godina živi i radi u Berlinu, održao je u Hrvatskoj nekoliko izložbi. Prvu od 5. do 29. studenoga u Modernoj galeriji u rodnom Zagrebu (početna ideja bila je da izložba bude postavljena u Umjetničkom paviljonu, ali to je bilo nemoguće jer ga je oštetio potres), a zatim u Dubrovniku od 10. prosinca do

28. veljače. Na izložbama u Zagrebu i Dubrovniku izložena su njegova 43 rada nastala u razdoblju od 2015. do 2020. godine podijeljena u četiri sekcije: Zlatne folije i odrazi, Posjet ateljeu, Melankolija noćnih svjetla i Izlet. U trenutku kada razgovaramo s ovim zanimljivim slikarom, poznatim i priznatim i izvan granica domovine, čiji je primarni medij figurativno slikarstvo, njegova izložba u Dubrovniku

01 Lene u potopu / Lene in a Flood, ulje na MDF ploči / oil on MDF board, 40 x 29 cm, 2019-20 02 Ukazanje u Neuköllnu (crveno, žuto, zeleno) / An Apparition in Neukölln (Red, Yellow, Green), ulje na MDF ploči / oil on MDF board, 55 x 40 cm, 2020

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još traje, a plan je da se s proljećem 25 njegovih radova izloži i u Rijeci, koja je još do 30. travnja europska prijestolnica kulture.  Naslov je izložbe Usporavanje. Je li to svojevrsna referenca ili, bolje rečeno, kontrast nemoguće brzome načinu života kojem smo donedavno

bili izloženi, a sada je nas zaskočilo usporavanje? Naslov se na neki način čini vidovitim jer trenutačno je cijeli svijet u usporavanju, ali s obzirom na vrijeme kad su nastali vaši radovi, niste, naravno, mogli znati da će se to dogoditi... Zašto upravo takav naslov? − Da ne bi netko pomislio da snosim odgovornost za ovo što sada doživljavamo, odgovorno tvrdim: iako me je užasno počela frustrirati pretjerana konzumacija svega i svačega, uvjerenje da je sve dostupno i da se sve može, beskrajna površnost našeg vremena bez fokusa, svakodnevno bombardiranje informacijama, naslov izložbe došao je sam po sebi iz jednog potpuno intimnog razloga, puno prije globalnog usporavanja. Jednostavno sam u jednom trenutku, kad sam primijetio da na ovaj način na koji sada slikam neću nikada biti gotov sa slikom, rekao sebi: pa što onda, kamo ti se žuri. I tako sam nastavio polako i uporno, a zbog toga i sporo raditi dalje na slikama. Mislim da je to bilo dobro za slike jer smatram da se ta koncentracija osjeća u energiji kojom slike zrače, ali možda nije za mene jer bih htio još puno toga naslikati, a ne znam hoću li imati vremena.  Živimo u vremenu kad nam više nego ikad umjetnost može biti ljekovita. Ništa kao umjetnost ne može izliječiti rane nastale životnim nedaćama jer umjetnost postavlja stvari na svoje mjesto. Smiruje ljepotom, ali i uznemiruje. A ako uznemiruje, i to je dobro jer postavlja pitanja i vodi nas u neku svoju stvarnost. Koja ste pitanja htjeli otvoriti Usporavanjem? − Ja si pitanja postavljam nakon što je slika gotova. Je li dobra, je li lijepa, jesam li mogao drugačije i ima li to sve smisla. No sa slikom počinjem zato što reagiram na nešto, zato što želim neku svoju ideju pretvoriti u nešto materijalno, zato što jednostavno baš moram nešto naslikati i ne pitam se zašto. Slike koje su izložene nisu bile zamišljene kao slike za određenu izložbu, nego su nastajale svakodnevnim radom kroz posljednjih pet godina i slučajno se poklopilo da sam dobio priliku izložiti ih.  Jednom ste izjavili da vas u odabiru motiva ne vodi plan ni sustav nego životne okolnosti. Plan zvuči nekako tehnički, kao nešto što zadaje okvire, a umjetnost volimo shvaćati kao slobodu bez granica... Može li umjetnik uopće planirati?

− Danas se od svakog umjetnika zahtijeva da ima neku strategiju, neki statement, neku ideju koju slijedi u svojem radu. Meni je to bilo od samih početaka, da tako kažem, previše priče, literature. Osim toga, kao što sam već rekao, odluka o stvaranju nečega već je nekakav plan. Sloboda je riječ koja se užasno zloupotrebljava u vezi s umjetnošću, ali ja ću je sada evo ponovo zloupotrijebiti i reći da sam sretan što sam kao slikar bio slobodan raditi uglavnom ono što sam htio. Kad sam rekao da su moje životne okolnosti određivale to što sam slikao, htio sam reći da nisam imao nikakvu strategiju, nikakav program što želim postići slikanjem, nego sam jednostavno reagirao na ono što se u meni i oko mene događalo i to slikao.  Zanimljiva je vaša teza, ili bi se možda prije moglo reći, vaša odluka da ne tražite istinu u slikarstvu jer slikarstvo nije medij kojim se može prenositi istina. Možete li to malo objasniti? − Istina je kao i sloboda riječ koja se jako zloupotrebljava kada se govori o slikarstvu i općenito o umjetnosti. Za mene je jedina istina u vezi sa slikarstvom ta da je slika jedan materijalan predmet u realnom svijetu, najčešće kvadratnog oblika i različitih dimenzija, a to što i kako će se interpretirati što je na površini tog predmeta naslikano ovisi o onome tko je promatra, u kojem vremenu, u kakvoj kulturnoj i društvenoj klimi.  Figurativni ste slikar, koristite tradicionalnu tehniku ulja na platnu. No u seriji Zlatne folije i odrazi kao da propitkujete figurativnost iskrivljenošću predmeta koji preko svojeg odraza na zlatnoj foliji konstruira drukčiju sliku o sebi. Je li to ipak svojevrsni odmak od klasičnoga figurativnog slikara? − Kad je riječ o folijama, one nisu nikakav odmak od figurativnog načina slikanja budući da su vrlo pažljivo i vjerno naslikane zajedno sa svim iskrivljenim odrazima na njima. Druga je stvar što taj iskrivljeni odraz daje dojam nekakvog odmaka. Ali to je samo odraz na površini folije. I prije sam se znao igrati tim dvoznačnostima, recimo koncem devedesetih na slikama iz serija Umjetnici u prirodi i Vidim slike koje gleda netko drugi. Može se reći da je to jedna konceptualna linija u mojem slikarstvu.  O seriji slika Bar u katalogu ste napisali: U polumraku svjetluca tisuće

sitnih odbljesaka poput zvjezdica u nekom crvenkastom svemiru. Taj polumrak, svjetlucanje, zvjezdice, dim, lica koja se izmjenjuju, vode nas u neki svoj fascinantni svijet koji, kako kažete, navodi o razmišljanju o prolaznosti. Prolaznost je česta tema umjetnosti. Koliko je vas upravo ta tema poticala na stvaranje i dolazi li ona više do izražaja u zrelijoj životnoj dobi?

Blade Runner, koji sam gledao u mladosti i od tada sam želio dobiti sličnu atmosferu i u svojim slikama, ali put je bio malo duži. Činjenica jest da je tema filma bila i prolaznost.  Jednom ste također izjavili da ste odlučili slikati samo za one koji znaju gledati. Što je s onima koji ne znaju, može li se ljude uopće naučiti gledati, slušati...? Je li vrijedno napora?

− Kad govorimo o slikama iz serije Bar, one su konceptualne na drugi način zbog stalne i uvijek prisutne želje slikara da se zaledi, da se uhvati za uvijek jedan određeni prizor u jednoj određenoj atmosferi. Bar je dio ciklusa Melankolija noćnih svjetala, ali ta melankolija nije odraz moje životne dobi, već je bila inspirirana filmom

− Ta je izjava proizašla iz moje frustracije u kontaktima s takozvanom umjetničkom scenom i odnosila se na takozvane profesionalce, na ljude koji su vezani uz umjetnost. Oni najčešće ne gledaju nego misle sliku. Gledaju kroz naočale onog što su pročitali, naučili, što im je poznato. Oni su kao ljudi koji idu ulicom i informacije o

CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

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okolišu u kojem se kreću dobivaju putem interneta na svojem telefonu, u koji neprekidno bulje, a ne vide što se zapravo oko njih događa. Ja hoću kao promatrača svojih slika nekoga tko ne gleda znanjem nego jednostavno vidi sliku.  Neko vrijeme bavili ste se pedagoškim radom na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Zagrebu. Što ste tada primarno htjeli prenijeti na mlađe kolege

vidim s nekima od njih. A danas mi se posve subjektivno čini da sam za mlade neki starček na izdisaju koji tu još nešto petlja. Valjda. Nemam povratnih informacija. Ispričajte nam nešto više o svojim počecima. Kako ste se zarazili slikarstvom? Sjećate li se tog trenutka? Je li se to dogodilo rano, još u vašem dječjem svijetu, ili kasnije tijekom odrastanja?

nimaju li vas sada drukčije teme nego na početku? Ili su neke teme neizbježne jednostavno zato što su vječne? − Ne bih mogao opisati svoj umjetnički put od početaka budući da me zanima jedino slika na kojoj upravo radim. Ona se sigurno nije pojavila niotkuda, slike nastaju iz prethodnih slika. Ali kako ja nisam više isti čovjek od prije tridesetak godina, tako su slike drugačije, a što se i kako desilo na tom putu i zašto, meni nije više važno kada se počne raditi na novoj slici.  Jeste li, da tako kažem, statičan umjetnik najviše vezan za svoj atelje ili volite putovati, mijenjati mjesta u kojima boravite i na taj način istraživati? − Volim najviše biti u ateljeu, po mogućnosti cijelo vrijeme, neprekidno. OK, malo pretjerano, sada je to ionako neizbježna realnost i želio bih još nekada nekamo otići upravo zato što to sada nije tako jednostavno, ali u stvari nisam neki veliki ljubitelj putovanja.  Na čemu sada radite i što će biti vaš sljedeći predmet umjetničkog istraživanja? − Radim jednu portret-narudžbu za novac, jednu malu kič sliku sebi za dušu i u stvari nastavljam raditi na ciklusima koji su bili pokazani na izložbi Usporavanje. Nešto će novo već doći samo po sebi, kada još malo više ostarim i budem malo više neki drugi čovjek. Takozvana kasna faza. 

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koji se tek umjetnički formiraju, a što danas smatrate važnim u interakciji s mlađim naraštajima općenito? − Taj dio svoje biografije ne smatram važnim i teško mi je nešto suvislo o tome reći. Ponajprije zato što nije ni na koji način utjecao na moj rad, a smatram i da nisam ništa važno ni posebno u pedagoškom smislu napravio. A i bilo je to davno i nisam poslije više nikada razmišljao o tome. Jedino znam da sam svoj predmet nazvao Crtanje po promatranju umjesto samo Crtanje. Interakcija sa studentima bila je više na nekoj ljudskoj razini nego po nekom principu. I drago mi je kad se

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− Mislim da se to dogodilo u petom ili šestom razredu osnovne škole kada je umrla profesorica likovnog odgoja koja nas tjerala da iz glave radimo slike na temu važnih događaja iz NOB-a i prigodnih datuma ondašnje socijalističke države. To meni nije baš išlo i takve su bile i ocjene. Onda je došla nova mlada učiteljica koja nam je postavila mrtvu prirodu i rekla da to nacrtamo u olovci; to mi je jako dobro išlo i bio sam pohvaljen. Tada sam shvatio da se crtanjem i slikanjem mogu svidjeti drugima i odluka je pala.  Kako biste opisali vlastiti umjetnički put i razvoj od početaka do danas, za-

ovro Artuković, a renowned Croatian painter who’s lived and worked in Berlin for 17 years, has held two exhibitions in Croatia in the past few months. The first was held between 5th and 29th November at the National Museum of Modern Art in his hometown of Zagreb (initially, the exhibition was to be set up at the Art Pavilion, but this turned out to be impossible because the pavilion was damaged by a recent earthquake) and the other in Dubrovnik between 10th December and 28th February. At the two exhibitions, 43 of his works created in the period between 2015 and 2020 have been exhibited, divided into four series: Golden Foils and Reflections, A Visit to the Studio, Night Light Melancholy, and An Excursion. While we’ve talked to this fascinating painter − who’s been well-known and acclaimed even beyond the borders of his homeland, and whose primary form of art is figurative − his exhibition in Dubrovnik is still on show. Moreover,

there are plans to exhibit 25 of his works in Rijeka, which is enjoying the status of European Capital of Culture until 30th April.  The exhibition is called Deceleration. Is it a reference of sorts or, better still, does it imply a contrast to the impossibly fast-paced life we lived until recently, and now we’ve been caught off-guard by a deceleration? The title seems almost clairvoyant in a way because, at the moment, the whole world’s decelerating. But, given the time when you produced your works, you couldn’t have, of course, known that this was going to happen. Why this title? − I wouldn’t like anybody to think that I might be responsible for what we’ve been experiencing lately, so I rightfully claim: although I was terribly frustrated by excessive consumerism, by the belief that everything’s accessible and that everything’s possible, by the infinite superficiality of our time without any focus, by the fact that we’ve been bombarded daily by information, the title of the exhibition came by itself for a completely intimate reason, long before our global slowdown. At one point, when I realised that I’d never be done with the painting the way I’ve been painting ever since, I said to myself: so what, are you in a hurry? And so I continued working on my paintings unhurriedly yet persistently, but that also meant that my work was slow. I think this has turned out to be good for my paintings because I think that you can feel this concentration in the energy radiating from my paintings. This, however, may not have turned out to be so good for me because I’d like to paint a lot more, and I don’t know whether I’ll have time.  We live in a time when art can indeed be therapeutic − and this, more than ever before. Nothing like art can heal the wounds inflicted by the trials and tribulations of life because art puts everything in its place. Its beauty soothes, although it can also be unsettling. It’s not necessarily a bad thing if it unsettles you because it poses questions and takes you to a world of its own. What questions did you want to raise with your Deceleration? − I ask myself questions once the painting’s done. Is it good, is it beautiful, could I have done it differently and does it all make sense. I start creating a painting because I react to something, because I want to

give an idea of mine material existence, because I simply have to paint something and I don’t ask why. The paintings on display were not conceived as paintings intended for a particular exhibition. They’re rather the result of my daily work over the last five years and it was by coincidence that I was given the opportunity to exhibit them.  You once stated that, in choosing your motifs, you’re not guided by a plan

01 Jesenski izlet / An Autumn Getaway, ulje na platnu / oil on canvas, 15 x 125 cm, 2017-19 02 Jednog ljetnog dana u Heidelberškoj šumi / One Summer’s Day in the Heidelberg Forest, ulje na MDF ploči / oil on MDF board, 45 x 26 cm, 2017

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01 Vrijeme zatvaranja (loše misli) / Closing Time (Bad Thoughts), ulje na platnu / oil on canvas, 105 x 145 cm, 2019-20 02 U Tieru / In Tier, ulje na platnu / oil on canvas, 145 x 115 cm, 2020

or system, but by life’s circumstances. Having a plan sounds rather technical, it sounds like something that sets out a framework, and we like to understand art to be freedom without borders. Can an artist have a plan at all? − Today, all artists are required to have a strategy, a statement of sorts, to have an idea that they follow in their work. For me, this has always been too much talk, so to speak, too much theory, as it were. Besides, as I’ve said earlier, the decision itself to create something is already some kind of a plan. Freedom is a word that’s been horrendously abused in relation to art, and I’ll now abuse it again by saying that I’m both lucky and happy that, as a painter, I’ve been free to do mostly what I’ve wanted. When I say that my life’s circumstances determine what I paint, what I want to say is that I have no strategy, no agenda that I want to achieve by painting, and that I simply react to what’s happening within and without me, and I paint that.  Your thesis or, better still, your decision not to seek the truth in painting because painting isn’t a medium by which the truth can be conveyed is fascinating. Could you elaborate on this? − Much like freedom, truth is a word that’s been greatly abused when it comes to painting and art in general. For me, the only

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truth concerning painting is that paintings are material objects in the real world, usually rectangular in shape and of different dimensions. Any interpretation of what is painted on the surface of such objects depends on the observer, the time, and the cultural and social milieu that they’re observed in.  You’re a figurative painter, with oil on canvas being your favourite medium. Yet, in your Golden Foils and Reflections series, you seem to bring into question figuration by distorting objects which, through their being reflected in golden foil, construct a different image of themselves. Is this a shift of sorts from classical figurative painting? − As far as foils are concerned, they aren’t a departure from figurative painting because I painted them very carefully and faithfully together with all the distorted reflections in them. The fact that these distorted reflections create the impression of a departure of sorts from figuration is another matter altogether. These are nothing but reflections on the surface of foil. I used to play with these ambiguities before, in the late 1990s, for example, in my Artists in Nature and I See Paintings Viewed by Someone Else series. It could be said that this is a conceptual line in my work.  In the catalogue, you write the following about your Bar series of

paintings: Thousands of tiny reflections sparkle like stars in the twilight of some reddish universe. This twilight, the sparkles, the stars, the smoke, faces passing take us to a fascinating world of theirs which, as you yourself have said, makes us think about transience. Transience is a common theme in art. How much has the theme of transience inspired you to create and does transience come more to the fore in a more mature age perhaps? − The paintings from my Bar series are conceptual, but in a different way, and this thanks to the painter’s insatiable and ever-present desire to freeze, to capture one particular scene in one particular atmosphere. My Bar paintings are part of the Night Light Melancholy series. But this melancholy isn’t a reflection of my age, and was inspired by the Blade Runner, a film I watched in my youth. I have wanted to create a similar atmosphere in my paintings ever since, but the journey there took a little longer. After all, one of the themes dealt with in the film is transience.  Once you also stated that you decided to paint only for those who know how to watch. What about those who don’t know how to watch? Can people be taught to watch and listen at all? Is it worth the effort?

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− That statement of mine arose from my frustration with what is called the arts scene and referred to people who call themselves experts, to people who are tied to art one way or the other. They usually don’t look at paintings, but think paintings. They look through the lenses of what they’ve read or learned, of what they’re familiar with. They’re like people who gather information about the environment that they’re moving through while walking down the street via the Internet on their mobiles, which they stare at uninterruptedly, and they don’t see what really goes on around them. I want those who view my paintings not to look at them through the lenses of their prior knowledge, but to simply see my paintings.  You worked at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb for a while. What was it that you wanted to communicate to your younger colleagues who were being formed as artists at the time, and what do you consider important today in your interactions with the younger generations in general? − I don’t consider that part of my biography to be of importance and it’s difficult for me to say anything meaningful about it. Primarily because my teaching didn’t influence my work in any way, and I also think that I didn’t do anything important or special in terms of teaching. And it was a long time ago and I’ve never thought about it again once I stopped teaching. All I know is that I named my subject Observational Drawing instead of just Drawing. My interactions with students were more personal than based on some principle. And I’m glad to see some of them. Today, it seems rather subjective to me that for young people I’m a dinosaur that’s still pottering about. I guess. I haven’t received any feedback.  Tell us a little more about your beginnings. How did you get to love painting? Do you remember that moment? Did it happen early on in your childhood or later during the years of your growing up? − I think it happened in the fifth or sixth grade of primary school when my art teacher died who used to force us to, by using our imagination alone, draw and paint themes revolving round important World War II events and anniversaries commemorated in the former socialist state. I wasn’t versed in it, and my grades weren’t any better either. Our new teacher was

young and she set up a still life for us telling us to draw it in pencil. I was very good at that and she praised my work. It was then that I realised that others may like me for my drawings and paintings. And that’s how I made my decision.  How would you describe your creative path and development from your beginnings to date? Are you now interested in themes that are different from the ones you were interested in at the beginning? Or are some themes unavoidable simply because they’re timeless? − I can’t describe my creative path from my beginnings because I’m only interested in the painting I’m currently working on. It certainly hasn’t appeared out of nowhere. Paintings arise from previous paintings. But as I’m a different man from thirty years ago, so are my paintings. When I start working on a new painting, it no longer matters to me what has happened along the way, how and why.

 Are you a static artist, so to speak, one who’s most attached to his studio or do you like travelling, changing places and exploring? − What I love the most is being at my studio, preferably all the time, non-stop. OK, this is a bit of an exaggeration. In this day and age, it’s an inevitable reality anyhow and I’d like to go somewhere sometime in the future exactly because right now it’s not that simple, although I’m not really a big fan of travelling.  What are you working on at the moment and what will your next artistic research centre around? − I’ve been doing a portrait commission, a small kitsch painting for myself and I’m actually continuing to work on the series presented at the Deceleration exhibition. Something new will come by itself, when I get a little older and become a different man. When I enter the so-called late stage. 

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KULTURA CULTURE

Piše/By _ Velid Đekić Fotografije/Photos _ Petar Fabijan

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Ući danas u Palaču šećera, novo sjedište Muzeja grada Rijeke otvoreno u studenome prošle godine u sklopu projekta Rijeka − Europska prijestolnica kulture, znači naći se u interijeru koji plijeni pozornost kamo god pogledali. U muzeju su smješteni zanimljivi i vrijedni eksponati, ali od svega je možda najimpresivnija sama velika obnovljena palača. To enter the Sugar Refinery Palace today, the new seat of the City Museum of Rijeka − opened in November last year within the European Capital of Culture project − is to find yourself in an interior that captivates you wherever you look. Although the museum houses fascinating and valuable exhibits, the restored large palace itself is perhaps the most impressive of all.

01 Šećerna dvorana sa 220 glava šećera koje su Riječani nazvali kampanuli The museum’s sugar hall displaying 220 sugar heads, which the people of Rijeka call kampanuli 02 Impozantno unutarnje stubište The museum’s impressive main stairway 03 Raskošni interijer barokne Dvorane s vedutama The lavish interior of the museum’s baroque Veduta Hall 03

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nate li koji je najvredniji izložak Muzeja grada Rijeke? To je palača u kojoj se muzej nalazi. Velika, obnovljena palača teško među eksponatima muzeja može imati konkurenciju. Priča o palači stara je gotovo tri stoljeća, a započinje u vrijeme kada je Rijeka bila malo primorsko mjesto s četiri tisuće stanovnika. Palača je izgrađena kao upravno sjedište Rafinerije šećera. Taj je pogon početna točka cjelokupne riječke industrijske priče. Rafineriju šećera pokrenula je 1750. godine Glavna trgovačka kompanija Trsta i Rijeke, osnovana nizozemskim kapitalom i odlukom carice Marije Terezije da udahne nov gospodarski elan Austrijskom primorju, čijim je dijelom tada bila i Rijeka. Kako se mislilo udahnuti živost? Trgujući šećerom i šećernim proizvodima, kavom, čajem, duhanom, ugljenom i drvom, gradeći brodove i nove pomorske veze. Moćna kompanija osnovala je u Rijeci kompleks za rafiniranje šećera, čijom će se zaslugom ime grada u 18. stoljeću prvi put proširiti trgovačkim i industrijskim svijetom. Palača, podignuta na morskoj obali, od samih je početaka nudila zanimljive

prizore. Za kameni gat pred njom vezivali su se jedrenjaci, istovarujući sirovi šećer ravno pred pogonska vrata. Sirovina je bila porijeklom s prekooceanskih plantaža šećerne trske. Rafinerija je radila sve do tržišnih promjena početkom 19. stoljeća, među kojima je ključna bila pojava šećerne repe kao sirovine. Pogon je formalno ukinut 1826. godine, a život mu je potom donosio nove namjene. Godine 1851. u njemu je s radom započela Tvornica duhana. Od 1947. do 1998. godine palača i njezin kompleks bili su poznati kao Tvornica motora Rikard Benčić. Kada je palača dobila lice koje vidimo danas? Ključni trenutak bio je veliki požar koji je zdanje zahvatio 1785. godine, no nesretni se događaj na koncu pokazao kao − sretan. Palača je obnovljena pa je postala ljepša, s impresivno uređenim interijerom. Razlog tomu nalazio se u odluci trojice direktora rafinerije da se usele u zdanje pa je uređenje interijera moralo biti na najvišoj razini. Palači su potom zaprijetili ratovi, ali i zamor materijala, problematično održavanje, dograđivanja i pregrađivanja, osvježavanja zidova novom žbukom i bojama, kako to u životu biva.

01 Poprsje Riječanina Giovannija Luppisa, izumitelja torpeda The bust of the Rijeka-born Giovanni Luppis, the inventor of the torpedo 02 Dvorana Carski orao i mletački lav s portretima Karla VI. i Marije Terezije The Imperial Eagle and the Lion of Venice Hall with the portraits of Charles VI and Empress Maria Theresa

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03 Portreti hrvatskog bana i riječkog guvernera Josipa Jelačića te mađarskog ministra Ferenca Deáka The portraits of Josip Jelačić, ban of Croatia and governor of Rijeka, and Ferenc Deák, Hungarian minister

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01 Dio postava posvećen glasovitom izumu torpeda i Rafineriji nafte A part of the exhibition dedicated to the great invention of the torpedo and Rijeka’s Oil Refinery 02 Mornarski čvorovi, detalj postava o Mornaričkoj akademiji Sailing knots, an exhibit detail dedicated to Rijeka’s Royal Naval Academy

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A kad je Tvornica Rikard Benčić, koja ju je koristila posljednja, nestala kao gospodarsko ime, nad opstankom zgrade nadvio se golem upitnik unatoč činjenici da je 1970. proglašena zaštićenim kulturnim dobrom kao najveća barokna poslovna palača u Habsburškoj Monarhiji. Godine 2000. kupio ju je Grad Rijeka, a Hrvatski restauratorski zavod u njoj je 2003. započeo konzervatorska istraživanja. Sve je potom preokrenuo projekt Turistička valorizacija reprezentativnih spomenika riječke industrijske baštine Grada Rijeke, Sveučilišta u Rijeci i Turističke zajednice grada Rijeke u suradnji s Muzejom grada Rijeke. Njime je palača dobila priliku za nov život. Grad je prijavio projekt na natječaj za dobivanje bespovratnih sredstava iz EU fondova koji je raspisalo hrvatsko Ministarstvo regionalnog razvoja i fondova EU-a. Ukupna vrijednost projekta iznosila je 81.339.442,05 kuna, od čega je 85 posto pokriveno iz EU fondova, što je maksimalan iznos bespovratnih EU sredstava. Sredstva su odobrena 2017., nakon čega je započela obnova. Riječ je o građevini s podrumom, visokim prizemljem i polukatom te tri kata i potkrovljem. Danas se u prizemlju nalazi

informacijski centar, suvenirnica, kafić i turistička agencija, a na polukatu muzejski depo i stručna knjižnica. Na prvom i drugom katu stalni je postav koji će posjetitelju u 30 prostorija dočarati uzbudljivu riječku prošlost. Autorski ga potpisuje mr. sc. Ervin Dubrović, ravnatelj muzeja, jedan od najboljih poznavatelja riječke povijesti. Dizajn postava djelo je Nikoline Jelavić Mitrović, dobitnice nagrade Europski muzej godine za rad na Gradskome muzeju Vukovar te autorice nagrađenog rješenja postava u Muzeju Sinjske alke. Obuhvaća gospodarsku, političku, kulturnu, obrazovnu, znanstvenu i sportsku povijest Rijeke. Naglasak je na razdoblju od trenutka kada je grad postao slobodna kraljevska luka 1719. godine, što mu je donijelo priliku za dotad neviđen razvoj, pa do godine 2020., kada je grad postao europska prijestolnica kulture. Sve je učinjeno stavljajući Rijeku u europski kontekst, povezujući je s Antwerpenom, Bečom, Budimpeštom i ostalim europskim gradovima, pa i onima na drugim kontinentima, poput New Yorka. Osnovnu građu za to dale su postojeće muzejske zbirke. Kako doliči suvremenoj kulturnoj ustanovi, postav je vrlo pristupačan posjetiteljima, što znači

da je bogat podacima, zaigrano raspričan, multimedijalan i interaktivan. Neke prostorije posebno se ističu vizualnom raskoši. Na prvom katu takva je prostorija središnji salon. Muzealci ga nazivaju Fumijevom dvoranom tragom podatka da ga je 1890-ih završno uredio riječki slikar Giovanni Fumi. On je autor zidnih oslika sa ženskim likovima koji alegorijski i živahnim bojama prikazuju četiri godišnja doba na svodu dvorane. Taj se kat palače bavi ukupnom poviješću grada. To je Priča o Rijeci, Europi i svijetu. Njezin je početak u 18. stoljeću, kada se javljaju začeci moderne Rijeke, što će kulminirati izrastanjem grada u važnu srednjoeuropsku luku i industrijsko središte. Manje cjeline toga dijela postava podsjećaju na brojne države kojima je Rijeka pripadala (samo u 20. stoljeću njih sedam), na rad Tvornice papira Hartera, Rafinerije nafte, Riječke tvornice kakaa i čokolade te brodogradilišta, na riječki izum torpeda, Rijeku kao iseljeničku luku, Drugi svjetski rat, kazališni i glazbeni život grada, školstvo, automobilizam i svakodnevni život. Drugi je kat posvećen temi nazvanoj Slatka povijest Rijeke. Okosnica je biografija proizvodnog kompleksa u kojemu se nalazi muzej. Obuhvaćena su sva razdoblja, od Rafinerije šećera preko Tvornice duhana do Tvornice motora Rikard Benčić. Naglasak je, očekivano, na šećernom dijelu priče, s cjelinama o dopremi sirovine, preradbenom procesu u Rijeci i konzumiranju šećera. Jedna od soba scenografski je riješena tako da posjeti-

telja obasipa bjelinom šećera zahvaljujući staklenoj vitrini punoj ručno izrađenih šećernih glava, baš onakvih kakve su se proizvodile u Rijeci. To je prava oda riječkim glavama šećera, što su ih Riječani nazivali kampanulima, zbog izgleda koji podsjeća na zvono. Taj je kat reprezentativni kat zgrade, piano nobile. Njime dominira Svečana dvorana, koja visinom seže kroz treći kat, sve do potkrovlja. Na njezinu svodu ističu se reljefni medaljoni s prikazima iz rimske vojne povijesti. Otud se može izaći na balkon s kojega se u 18. stoljeću promatralo iskrcavanje sirovine s jedrenjaka. Bogatom dekoracijom izdvaja se i Dvorana s vedutama. Ukrašena je panoramama antičkih imaginarnih gradova, što je znak kućne mode imućnih slojeva u 18. stoljeću. Iza susjednih vrata nalazi se Venerin salon, prostorija koju su direktori rafinerije koristili u trenucima opuštanja. Treći je kat radni prostor osoblja, u potkrovlju su tehnički prostor muzeja i spremišta. Sedam etaža zdanja povezuje impozantno glavno stubište s kamenim stupovima i kovanom željeznom ogradom. Od stubišta se na svakoj razini palače protežu prostorije koje omogućuju kružno kretanje katovima. Zakoračiti u novo sjedište Muzeja grada Rijeke zato je poput ulaska u vremeplov − njime se krećete kroz uzbudljivu povijest grada okruženi originalnim predmetima, replikama, slikom, zvukom, riječju i filmom. A sve u impozantnoj industrijskoj palači, koja dočekuje posjetitelje obnovljenim licem, gotovo istovjetnim onomu kakvo je imala u 18. stoljeću. 

o you know which the most valuable exhibit of the City Museum of Rijeka is? It’s the palace itself housing the museum. The restored large palace can hardly compete with the museum’s exhibits. The story of the palace is almost three centuries old, and begins at a time when Rijeka was a small coastal town home to four thousand residents. The palace was built as the administrative headquarters of Rijeka’s Sugar Refinery, which marked the beginning of Rijeka’s entire industrial story. Thanks to a decree issued by Empress Maria Theresa wanting to breathe new life into the Austrian coast − which Rijeka was a part of at the time − and funded with Dutch capital, the refinery was established in 1750 by the Privileged Company of Trieste and Fiume. How was it meant to breathe new life into the coast? Well, by trading in sugar and sugar products, coffee, tea, tobacco, coal and wood, by building ships, and by offering new shipping and sea travel routes. So the said influential company founded a sugar refinery complex in Rijeka, thanks to which Rijeka was put on the map of the commercial and industrial world for the first time in the 18th century.

03 Boce za soda vodu u prostoriji posvećenoj gradskoj lakoj industriji Seltzer bottles in a hall dedicated to Rijeka’s light industry 04 Odjeljak o riječkoj popularnoj glazbi 1950-ih i 1960-ih A section dedicated to Rijeka’s popular music of the 1950s and 1960s 03

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Built on the very seafront, the palace has offered spectacular vistas since its very erection. Sailboats used to be moored alongside the stone pier in front of it unloading raw sugar just outside its doors. Raw sugar came from overseas sugar cane plantations. The refinery operated until the market changes in the early 19th century, amongst which one of the most major ones was the emergence of sugar beet as a raw material. The sugar refinery was formally closed in 1826, after which it was given new purposes. In 1851 it became a tobacco factory, and between 1947 and 1998 the Rikard Benčić Engine Factory moved into the palace and its complex. When was the palace given the face it today has? A decisive moment happened

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in 1785, when a great fire broke out. However, the unfortunate event eventually proved to be rather fortunate. The palace was fully restored, so in the end it became even more beautiful with an impressively decorated interior. The reason behind this was a decision made by three sugar refinery managers − they decided to move into the building, so the interior design had to be the best there was. The palace was then threatened by wars, as well as by material fatigue, improper maintenance, additions and partitions, by freshening up the walls with new plaster and paint, as is often the case in life. And when the Rikard Benčić Engine Factory, which was the last to use it, ceased to exist, the palace’s very existence was brought into question de-

spite the fact that in 1970 it was declared a protected cultural heritage building as the largest Baroque business palace in the entire Habsburg Monarchy. In the end, it was bought by the City of Rijeka in 2000, and in 2003 the Croatian Conservation Institute began conserving it. Its fate was ultimately decided by the Tourist Valorisation of Representative Monuments of Rijeka’s Industrial Heritage project worked on by the City of Rijeka, the University of Rijeka and the Rijeka Tourist Board in collaboration with the City Museum of Rijeka. Thanks to this project, the palace was given the chance of being reborn. The city applied for an EU-funded grant announced by Croatia’s Ministry of Regional Development and EU Funds. The project was valued at HRK 81,339,442.05, of which 85 percent was covered by EU funding, which is the maximum amount of non-refundable EU grants. Renovation of the palace began after funding was approved in 2017. The palace building has a basement, a raised ground floor, a mezzanine, three floors and an attic. Today, the ground floor houses an information centre, a souvenir shop, a café and a travel agency, while the mezzanine floor is where the museum’s depot and a library are on. The permanent exhibition displaying Rijeka’s exciting history is set up in 30 rooms on the first and second floors. It was curated by the museum’s director Ervin Dubrović, MA, one of the best experts on Rijeka’s history. The exhibition design was authored by Nikolina Jelavić Mitrović, winner of the Silletto Award awarded by the European Museum Forum for her work on the Vukovar City Museum and author of the award-winning exhibition design of the Alka of Sinj Museum. The exhibition showcases Rijeka’s life and history covering aspects such as its economy, politics, culture, education, science and sports. Emphasis is placed on the period between 1719 when Rijeka was proclaimed a free royal port, which triggered a boom, and 2020 when Rijeka became the European Capital of Culture. The exhibition design made sure that Rijeka is set in its European context, connecting it with Antwerp, Vienna, Budapest and other European cities, as well as those on other continents, such as New York. Existing museum collections provided plenty of material for this purpose. As befits a modern cultural institution, the exhibition is very accessible to visitors, which means

that it abounds in information and that, by using multimedia, it’s told playfully and interactively. Some of its exhibition rooms stand out amongst the rest thanks to their visual splendour. The Grand Stage Hall on the first floor is one such room. Museologists have dubbed it Fumi’s Hall because of the fact that it was restored in the 1890s by the Rijeka-born painter Giovanni Fumi.

He painted the frescoes featuring female figures that depict the four seasons on the vault of the hall allegorically and in vibrant colours. Telling The Story of Rijeka, Europe and the World, this floor of the palace centres on the general history of Rijeka. It begins in the 18th century, when modern-day Rijeka was given birth to, which culminated with Rijeka having grown into a leading Central European port and industrial

centre. Smaller sections of this part of the exhibition serve as reminders of the many countries that Rijeka was part of (seven in the 20th century alone), and pay particular attention to the Hartera Paper Mill, the Oil Refinery, its Cocoa and Chocolate Factory and shipyard, the fact that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka, Rijeka as an emigrant port, World War II, Rijeka’s theatrical and musical life, education, motoring and everyday life. The second floor is dedicated to the Sweet History of Rijeka, centring round the biography of the production complex housing the museum and covering all its periods − from the Sugar Refinery through the tobacco factory to the Rikard Benčić Engine Factory. As expected, emphasis is

01 Prostorija Kazalište i život podsjeća na opernog skladatelja Ivana Zajca i slavne gostujuće glazbenike The Theatre and Life hall is dedicated to the opera composer Ivan Zajc and famous guest musicians

02-03 Dvorana Rijeka i svijet govori o velikom usponu grada nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata The Rijeka and the World hall tells the story of the great rise of Rijeka after World War II

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01 Monumentalni trgovi gradova iz mašte u Dvorani s vedutama Monumental squares of imaginary ancient cities in the Veduta Hall 02 Fumijeva dvorana s alegorijskim stropnim prikazima obilja i plodnosti Fumi’s Hall with allegorical ceiling frescoes depicting abundance and fertility 03 Arkadijski mitski prizor na zidu Venerine dvorane An Arcadian mythical scene on the wall of Venus’s Salon

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placed on the sugar part of the story, with sections focusing on the delivery of raw material, the process of sugar production in Rijeka and sugar consumption. Thanks to the design of one of the rooms, you’ll be showered with the whiteness of sugar − it has a glass display showcase full of handmade sugar heads, just like the ones that were once produced in Rijeka. It’s an ode to Rijeka’s sugar heads, which the people of Rijeka call kampanuli (derived from the Italian word campanello for bell) because the shape of the heads is reminiscent of a bell. This is the representative floor of the building, its piano nobile (grand floor in translation from Italian). It’s dominated by the Ceremonial Hall, which reaches as high as the ceiling of the third floor and all the way to the attic. Its vault is decorated with relief medallions featuring Roman military history depictions. The palace’s balcony can be reached from there, from which the unloading of raw material from sailboats used to be overseen in the 18th century. The Veduta Hall also stands out thanks to its lavish decorations. It’s decorated with

vedutas of imaginary ancient cities, which was a fashionable home decor trend loved by the wealthy in the 18th century. What hides behind an adjoining door is Venus’s Salon, a room that was used by sugar refinery managers when what they sought was relaxation. The third floor is reserved for staff offices, and the attic for technical equipment and storage. The building’s seven floors are interconnected by an impressive main stairway featuring stone pillars and wrought iron railings. On each floor of the palace, the rooms stretching from the stairway are all interconnected, allowing you to move across each floor circularly. This is why stepping into the new seat of the City Museum of Rijeka is like stepping into a time machine − you’ll travel through Rijeka’s exciting history surrounded by original and authentic objects and items, replicas, images, sounds, words and film in an impressive industrial palace that’ll greet you with its restored face, which is almost identical to the one it boasted in the 18th century. 

Get to know Kvarner

health and wellbeing destination

kvarner region tourist board hr-51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2 t +385 (0)51 623 333, 272 988 e kvarner@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr

PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL ATTRACTIONS

Ušće Neretve u ljetni suton The mouth of the Neretva in summer twilight

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A MAGNIFICENT RIVER

Tekst i fotografije / Text and photos _ Goran Šafarek

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01-02 Neretva i njezini rukavci u prostranom području trske The Neretva and its backwaters in a vast realm of reeds 03 Slana močvara na samom ušću Neretve u more Salt marsh at the very mouth of the Neretva

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01 Mala Neretva, jedan od rukavaca Neretve, okružen plantažama Mala Neretva, one of the rivulets of the Neretva, surrounded by plantations 02 Kitesurfing na ušću Neretve Kitesurfing at the mouth of the Neretva 03 Skupljanje plodova mora Coastal foraging

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01 Mala bijela čaplja A little egret 02 Oštrigari na sprudu Oystercatchers on a sandbar 03 Delta Neretve u smiraj dana The Neretva Delta at the close of the day

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Kanalići Neretve usred plitke slane močvare The Neretva’s small canals surrounded by shallow salt marsh

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Usred surovog dalmatinskog krša ugnijezdila se mekana zemlja, na hektrima ravnice na vjetru njiše se trska, pjevaju trstenjaci, plivaju liske, a na pješčanim sprudovima odmaraju se deseci čaplji. To ne može biti nigdje drugdje nego na delti Neretve, najvećemu močvarnom području na Jadranu. A bit of soft soil has nestled in the midst of Dalmatia’s harsh karst landscape, with reeds swaying in the wind and great reed warblers singing across the plain’s acres, with Eurasian coots swimming and dozens of herons resting on sandbars. This can only be the delta of the Neretva River, the largest wetland of the Adriatic.

01-02 Naselja uz rub močvare Small towns along the edge of marshland 03 Plodna dolina Neretve okružena je krškim brdima The fertile Neretva Valley is surrounded by karst hills

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značaju rijeke Neretve svjedoči to što je uvrštena u Ramsarski popis svjetski značajnih močvarnih područja. Ni čovjek nije odolio plodnoj zemlji pa je delta danas kraljevstvo mandarina, lubenica i ostalog voća, a blizina susjedne BiH čini je i velikim prometnim čvorištem. Neretva u Hrvatsku pristiže nakon 203 kilometra u BiH. U svojem planinskom dijelu ova veličanstvena rijeka teče kanjonom, mjestimice vrlo divljim. Kod Čapljine pomalo izlazi iz kanjona i tako sve šira teče prema Hrvatskoj, gdje joj je Metković prva stanica. Ovaj se gradić cijelom du-

žinom razvio uz rijeku i sa svojih 15.000 stanovnika čini središte doline Neretve. Da bi se došlo do starijeg dijela grada, treba se malo potruditi i popeti na brdo Predolac, gdje je izgrađen. Ovdje se pruža dobar pogled i na poluotok Pelješac, ali naročito na zelenu dolinu posvuda oko grada. To ravno područje izravnala je sama Neretva tako što je sedimentom gotovo ravnomjerno popunila sve tadašnje depresije. Kroz mekani sediment Neretva je lako krčila sebi put, premještajući često tok za vrijeme bujica i granajući se u lepezu rukavaca, stvarajući deltu. Spusti li se do samoga njezina

ruba, vidi se da je to nepregledno polje trske, rogoza, šaša i ostalog močvarnog bilja. Razgrnu li se malo visoke stabljike, otkrivaju se u podnožju plitka voda i mulj. Ipak, ni tu vodena površina nije potpuno gola nego je prekrivaju vodena leća, lopoč, žuti lokvanj… Močvara je također savršeno mjesto za mnoge male ptice močvarice koje u trsci nalaze dom i gnjezdište pa tu vladaju trstenjaci i slične ptice vezane uz trsku. Na vodi oprezno plivaju mlakuše, kokošice, bukavac. Otvorenu vodu više vole patke i liske. Usred aluvijalne ravnice još uvijek stoje mali vapnenački brežuljci iznad razine

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01 Grad Metković na ulazu Neretve u Hrvatsku The town of Metković where the Neretva enters Croatia 02-03 Maraton lađa na Neretvi The Neretva Boat Marathon

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poplava. S brda Vid puca pogled na okolicu. Na samom vrhu nalazi se crkva sv. Vida iz 14. stoljeća, sada obnovljena i arheološki istražena, a tu je i novi arheološki muzej. Rijeka Neretva regulirana je i nije odveć zanimljiva, ali zato jesu brojnu rukavci i rječice. Jedna je od tih rječica Norin, čiji se tok lako prati po tamnozelenoj liniji vrba i topola koje stoje usred jednoličnog svijetlozelenog polja trske. Ipak, najbolje ju je istražiti čamcem. Svijet je ovdje malen, svega nekoliko metara rijeke koju omeđuje zeleni prirodni zid vegetacije. Nekad nije bilo pravih cesta, tlo je bilo mekano i pod utjecajem rijeka pa su glavni putovi bili vodeni. Stoga je i prijevozno sredstvo bilo plovilo i to dvije vrste: lađa i trupa. Sedam metara dugačke, a široke čak i do tri metra, lađe su bile teretni čamci za prijevoz poljoprivrednih proizvoda i stoke. Pokretale su se veslanjem, ali i vučenjem pomoću dugačkih konopaca s obale. Na mnogo uže i elegantnije trupe stao bi jedan ili dva čovjeka. Ova tradicionalna plovila još se i danas koriste, no dakako manje nego prije. Ipak, da bi obnovili tradiciju i privukli turiste, Neretljani su pokrenuli Maraton lađa od Metkovića do Ploča. Neretvom se nizvodno stiže do Opuzena. Ovo se mjesto danas diči obnovljenim središtem − Trgom kralja Tomislava u obliku rimskog foruma. Povijest Opuzena seže u doba Dubrovačke Republike, a vjeruje se da mu ime dolazi od mletačke utvrde Fort Opus. Kod Opuzena se od glavnog toka Neretve odvaja čak 12 rukavaca, a najveći je Mala Neretva.

Nizvodno od Opuzena trsku i šaš gotovo u potpunosti istiskuju nasadi mandarina i ostalih kultura. Intenzivna poljoprivreda posljednjih je desetljeća stubokom transformirala dolinu Neretve oko Opuzena. Mediteranska topla klima s blagim zimama i plodnim aluvijalnim tlom temelj je razvoja, no iako je usred močvare, u ljetnom vegetacijskom razdoblju nedostaju padaline. Stoga se krenulo u navodnjavanje pa je danas na Neretvi teško razlikovati prirodne vodotokove od mreže umjetnih kanala za navodnjavanje. Više uz rubove doline i uz izvore nalazimo i jezera. Udaljeni i očuvani, to su ornitološki rezervati Podgrede, Prud i Orepak. Tu su i zaštićena područja Modro oko i jezero Desne. Jezero Kuti i laguna Parila predloženi su kao ornitološki i ihtiološki rezervati. Upravo je i boćata voda lagune Parila i Vlaške na sjevernoj strani vrlo pogodan prostor za mrijest ribe te za ishranu i razvoj riblje mlađi. Parila su takoreći već na moru, na samom kraju Neretvina puta. Delta ne prestaje ni na zadnjem traku čvrsto kanalizirane obale, već se proširuje i u more. Iako se čini da za vrijeme plime more suvereno vlada sve do Pelješca, oseka otkriva prostrane pješčane sprudove. Taj sedimentni jezik Neretva je nanijela u more gurajući ga pred naslagama novog sedimenta. Tu se miješaju morska i slatka voda pa nastaju posebni uvjeti. Ovo plitko stanište kao stvoreno je za hranjenje ptica močvarica i onih koje vole blato. Uz obalu u pličini rastu halofiti − biljne zajednice caklenjača, biljaka koje podnose sol. Ljeti pak ljudi preuzimaju samo ušće Neretve pa umjesto cvrkuta ptica vlada žamor kupača. Pješčane plaže s plitkim morem idealne su za obitelji s malom djecom. Nešto dalje povoljni vjetrovi vuku kite surfere i pružaju adrenalinsku zabavu. Neretva više nije kao što je nekad bila − ona je svakako na prekretnici. Nema više slike koju je gledao ornitolog i veliki entuzijast Dragutin Rucner − velika jata ptica močvarica koja predvečer prelijeću Šibanicu i spuštaju se u deltu na noćenje. Jata više nisu velika niti je delta neoskvrnjena. Niti se Neretljani probijaju kroz močvaru trupama i lađama u svadbenim i pogrebnim povorkama. Dolina Neretve ima sve prilike da razvija održivu poljoprivredu, ekološki i klasični turizam mora i sunca, a da pri tome zadrži narušeno, ali još uvijek ogromno prirodno bogatstvo. 

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01-02 Dolina Neretve plodna je oaza mandarina i ostalog voća The Neretva Valley is a fertile oasis of mandarins and other fruits

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he fact that the Neretva Valley is included in the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance proves just how exceptional it is. Its fertile soil has always attracted people, so today the delta is a kingdom of mandarins, watermelons and other fruits, while the proximity of neighbouring Bosnia and Herzegovina makes it a major traffic hub. The Neretva River reaches Croatia after it has first flown for 203 kilometres in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the mountainous part of its watercourse, this magnificent river flows through a canyon, which is very wild in places. At the town of Čapljina, it leaves the canyon for a while and becomes wider flowing towards Croatia, where the town of Metković is its first stop. Metković developed entirely along the river and with its 15,000 residents is the very heart of the Neretva Valley. Getting to the older part of town takes a little effort because you need to climb Predolac Hill, which is where Metković was first built.

There’s a good view of the Pelješac Peninsula from Predolac Hill, particularly of the green valley embracing the town. This flatland was levelled out by the Neretva itself − its sediment filled almost entirely evenly all the depressions that had once existed there. The river makes its way through the soft sediment easily, often changing course during torrents and branching into countless backwaters, ultimately creating a delta. If you go down to its very edge, you’ll see that it’s an endless field of reeds, cattails, sedges and other aquatic plants. And if you separate the plants’ tall stems, even if slightly, what you’ll see are shallow waters and mud. However, the water surface isn’t completely bare here either − it’s covered with water lentils and water lilies… The swamp’s a perfect place for many small wetland birds that find a home and nest in reeds, so it’s reigned over by great reed warblers and other reed-loving birds. Common moorhens or swamp chickens, rails and Eurasian bitterns swim cautiously on

the water, while ducks and coots prefer open waters. In the midst of this alluvial plain, there’re still a number of small limestone hills above flood stage. A view of the surroundings stretches from Vid (Vitus in translation) Hill, at the very top of which lies the Church of St. Vitus from the 14th century, which has finally been restored and archaeologically explored, now accompanied by a new archaeological museum. The Neretva River is regulated and therefore not that interesting. However, its many backwaters and rivulets are truly fascinating. One of these is the Norin, whose course you’ll easily trace if you follow the dark green line of willow and poplar trees that stand out against a backdrop of a uniformly light green field of reeds. Still, the best way of exploring it is by boat. The world here is small − the river’s only a few metres wide and bordered by a natural green wall of vegetation. There were no paved roads here once. The ground was soft and waterlogged, and so waterways were the main routes of travel. In turn, vessels used to be the only means of transport, two types, to be precise: freighters called lađa and small canoe-like boats called trupa. Seven meters long and up to three meters wide, freighters or lađas are transport vessels used for the transport of agricultural products and livestock. They’re either rowed or pulled with the help of long ropes from the banks. By contrast, the much narrower and more elegant trupa can carry only one or two persons. These traditional vessels are still in use, although much less than before. However, wanting to maintain their tradition and attract tourists, the people of Neretva started a Boat Marathon from Metković to Ploče. Downriver, the Neretva reaches the town of Opuzen, which today boasts a restored town centre − King Tomislav Square shaped like a Roman forum. The history of Opuzen dates back to the time of the Republic of Ragusa (today’s Dubrovnik), and it’s believed that its name comes from the Venetian Fort Opus. At Opuzen, as many as 12 rivulets spread from Neretva’s main watercourse, the biggest of which is Mala Neretva. Downstream from Opuzen, reeds and sedges are almost entirely replaced by plantations of mandarins and other crops. In recent decades, intensive agriculture has radically transformed the Neretva Valley

around Opuzen. The warm Mediterranean climate with mild winters and fertile alluvial soil is what agricultural development is based on. Yet, although it’s in the middle of a swamp, not enough rain falls in the summer season, which is why the valley has been irrigated. Today, it’s difficult to tell which watercourse is natural and which is part of a network of artificial irrigation canals. There’re also lakes along the elevated fringes of the valley and next to water sources. Distant and preserved, Podgrede, Prud and Orepak are bird reserves. The Modro Oko (Blue Eye in translation) and Lake Desne protected areas should not be forgotten either. Proclaiming Lake Kuti and the Parila Lagoon a bird and fish reserve has recently been proposed. The brackish water of the Parila and Vlaška lagoons to the north is ideal for the spawning of fish, and for the feeding and growing of fish fry. The Parila Lagoon is near the coast, at the very end of Neretva’s watercourse. Even at the last section of this tightly canalised shore, the delta doesn’t stop, but extends into the sea. Although at high tide it seems that the sovereign ruler of this landscape all the way to Pelješac Peninsula is the sea, when the tide is low vast sandbars are unearthed. Being pushed by deposits of new sediment, these sandbars were created by sediment deposited by the

Neretva. Seawater and freshwater intermix here creating very specific conditions. This shallow habitat is ideal for the feeding of wetland birds and those that love mud. Halophytes − salt tolerant common glasswort communities − grow along the coast in the shallows. In summer, though, the mouth of the Neretva is taken over by people, so the chirping of birds is subdued by the chatter of bathers. Shallows and sandy beaches are ideal for families with small children. A little further on, kitesurfers are pulled by favourable winds providing an adrenalinepumping experience. The Neretva is no longer as it once was − it’s definitely at a turning point. Once watched and studied by ornithologist and great enthusiast Dragutin Rucner, the scene of large flocks of wetland birds flying over Šibenica in the evening and landing in the delta for the night no longer exists. The flocks are no longer large nor is the delta unspoiled. Nor do the people of Neretva have to force their way through the swamp aboard freighters and boats in wedding parties and funeral processions. The Neretva Valley has the necessary preconditions for the development of sustainable agriculture and ecotourism alongside conventional holidaying, while maintaining its already disturbed yet still massive natural wealth. 

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OTOCI ISLANDS

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Kako odabrati otok za savršen odmor kada vam je na raspolaganju više od 1000 otoka, okruženih jednim od najčišćih mora na svijetu? Izbor najljepših uvala na hrvatskom Jadranu zapravo nije moguć zbog njihove raznovrsnosti i broja, ali je izazov za svakog nautičara da pronađe onu koja je najljepša u njegovim očima i srcu.

B. Kačan/CNTB

Tekst/Text_Hrvatska turistička zajednica/Croatian National Tourist Board

How do you choose an island for your dream holiday when there’re more than 1000 islands to choose from, all surrounded by one of the cleanest seas in the world? It’s actually impossible to choose the most beautiful bays of the Croatian Adriatic because there are so many and because they’re so diverse. Finding the most beautiful for you personally is a challenge for everyone.

Z. Jelača/CNTB

Baljenac

Grad Hvar The town of Hvar

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I. Biočina/CNTB

01 Veliko jezero na otoku Mljetu s otočićem sv. Marije The Great Lake on the Island of Mljet with the Isle of St. Mary

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ko volite žuborenje mora pod pramcem, hrvatski Jadran, kao jedno od najljepših svjetskih mora s više od 1000 otoka, očarat će vas plavim dubinama, tirkiznim uvalama, pješčanim i šljunčanim plažama, šarmantnim primorskim gradićima, urbanim centrima, povijesnim spomenicima pod UNESCOovom zaštitom, nedirnutom prirodom, podmorskim atrakcijama, izrazito razvijenom nautičkom infrastrukturom, odličnim lukama i sidrištima, blagom i ugodnom mediteranskom klimom, obiljem dobre zabave, domaćim jelima i namirnicama prvoklasne kvalitete, autentičnim vinskim pričama te ljubaznim domaćinima koji vam žele srdačnu dobrodošlicu. No kako odabrati otok za savršen odmor kada vam je na raspolaganju više od 1000 otoka, okruženih jednim od najčišćih mora na svijetu, među kojima se nalazi i jedan − Hvar − koji nije samo najsunčaniji otok u Europi nego i otok koji ima najviše svjetske baštine pod zaštitom UNESCO-a u svijetu? Odakle početi? Od plaža, naravno. Od kultnog Zlatnog rata na

Braču do sakrivene Stinive na Visu, koja je proglašena najboljom plažom u Europi, hrvatski otoci kriju pravo bogatstvo plaža. Otkrijte skrivene pješčane plaže Hrvatske počevši od pješčanog raja na Susku − otoku prekrivenim pijeskom. A ljubitelji nudizma mogu odabrati rapsku plažu na kojoj je sve počelo, kada ju je 1936. posjetio abdicirani britanski kralj, ili pak najbolju nudističku plažu prema odabiru CNN-a − Jerolim na Hvaru. Osim iznimno razvedene obalne crte s više od tisuću otoka i otočića, hrvatski Jadran baštini nevjerojatan niz prirodnih fenomena, izrazito čisto more, autohtonu eno i gastronomsku ponudu te povijesno i kulturno nasljeđe koje seže tisućama godina unatrag. Tragovi života koje su na tom području ostavile različite kulture daju mu posebnu draž i temperament te utječu na pojavu brojnih specifičnosti na relativno malom prostoru. Kada tom prostoru dodate bogatstvo prirodnih ljepota jer se, primjerice, na hrvatskoj obali i otocima nalazi čak pet nacionalnih parkova, tada se upoznavanje hrvatskog mora i

A. Gospić/CNTB

02 Cres, plaža Lubenice The Lubenice Beach on the Island of Cres 03 Otočje Brijuni, nacionalni park The islands of the Brijuni National Park

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I. Biočina/CNTB

01 Rab 02 Otok Vis, vinograd A vineyard on the Island of Vis

Z. Jelača/CNTB

03 Park prirode Telašćica The Telašćica Nature Park

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Z. Jelača/CNTB

obale pretvara u jedinstveno iskustvo, jednako zabavno koliko i zanimljivo. Malo je onih koji se mogu pohvaliti činjenicom da dobro poznaju hrvatsku obalu, ali je mnogo onih koji joj se svake godine vraćaju, uživajući u otkrivanju autentične ljepote koja krasi taj dio mora smješten u srcu europskog kontinenta. Zahvaljujući arhipelazima koji se uzdužno protežu uz cijelu obalu, hrvatsko more dobro je zaštićeno, a gotovo da nema mjesta gdje se ne možete skloniti u sigurnu luku. Veća dvojba biva u koju luku ćete uploviti jer se na većini otoka nalaze prekrasni primorski

gradići bogate povijesti, kao središta u kojima se očuvao život, koji u toplim mjesecima dobiva posebno lijepe i živopisne nijanse. Izbor najljepših uvala na hrvatskom Jadranu zapravo nije moguć zbog njihove raznovrsnosti i broja, ali je izazov za svakog nautičara da pronađe onu koja je najljepša u njegovim očima i srcu. Otkrivajući uvale i primorske gradiće hrvatskih otoka, ne zaboravite kušati autohtone sorte vina − kojih je čak 130 u Hrvatskoj. Mnoge od njih potječu isključivo s otoka, uključujući grk na Korčuli, vugavu na Visu, bogdanušu na Hvaru, dobričić

na Šolti i žlahtinu na Krku. Morate naučiti samo jednu riječ: živjeli! Uz vino ne zaboravite uživati u mediteranskoj prehrani, koju je prepoznao čak i UNESCO te je uvrštena na popis nematerijalne baštine. Zahvaljujući bogatstvu plodova Jadrana riba zauzima vrlo važno mjesto na jelovniku, a kaže se da riba u Hrvatskoj pliva tri puta. Prvi put pliva u netaknutim vodama Jadrana, drugi put u maslinovu ulju tijekom pripreme, a treći put u vinu koje se pije uz jelo. No i otoci imaju vlastite tradicije i recepte: viška pogača, vitalac na Braču, puhijada na Hvaru…

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Hrvatski otoci diče se i mnogim ljepotama za koje je zaslužna ljudska ruka. Teško je nadmašiti otočić Baljenac blizu Šibenika, površine samo 0,14km2, koji se može podičiti besprijekornim suhozidom dugim 23,36 kilometara. Nikako ne propustite istražiti i lokalitet koji je uvršten na UNESCO-ov popis svjetske baštine − Starogradsko polje (Hvar) − zatim veličanstven samostan Blaca (Brač), u kojem se nalazi klavir koji su donijela devetorica svećenika i koji su navodno putem popili 56 litara vina, tajnovitu Zmajevu špilju na Braču te vojne špilje na Visu.

01 Riba na gradele Grilled fish

f you like the murmur of the sea under a boat, the Croatian Adriatic − one of the world’s most beautiful seas boasting more than 1000 islands − is sure to enchant you with its blue depths, turquoise bays, sandy and pebble beaches, charming coastal towns, urban centres, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, pristine nature, underwater attractions, highly developed maritime infrastructure, fantastic ports and moorings, its mild and pleasant Mediter-

M. D. Pečanić/CNTB

02 Jakobove kapice Scallops

Tradicija? Od karnevala na Lastovu do uskrsne procesije na Hvaru, hrvatski otoci na izniman način poštuju svoje nasljeđe, stoga u lokalnom turističkom uredu provjerite koji se festivali održavaju tijekom vašeg boravka. Jedino pitanje koje vam preostaje jest kakvo otočno iskustvo tražite u Hrvatskoj? 

M. D. Pečanić/CNTB

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ranean climate, plenty of great fun, the offer of local dishes and first-class foods, great wine stories and friendly hosts who’ll welcome you warmly. But, how do you choose an island for your dream holiday when there’re more than 1000 islands to choose from, all surrounded by one of the cleanest seas in the world? One such island is Hvar − not only the sunniest island in Europe, but also an island with the most UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the world. So where do you start? From beaches, of course. Ranging from the iconic Golden Cape on the Island of Brač to the hidden Stiniva Beach on the Island of Vis, which was voted the best beach in Europe, Croatia’s islands have a wealth of beaches to choose from. Croatia’s got many hidden sandy beaches for you to discover. A good place to start is the sandy paradise on Susak − an island covered in sand. Fans of naturism are recommended visiting the naturist beach of the Island of Rab where naturism began in Croatia when the English monarch who abdicated the throne visited it in 1936, or perhaps Jerolim Beach on Hvar, the world’s number 1 naturist beach according to CNN. Besides an extremely indented coastline boasting more than one thousand islands and islets, the Croatian Adriatic is also home to an incredible number of natural phenomena, extremely clean waters, an authentic wine and food culture, and historical and cultural heritage dating back thousands of years. The traces of life left by different cultures in the region lend it a special charm and a certain temperament, influencing the emergence of many specificities in a relatively small region. If you take account of Croatia’s wealth of natural attractions − considering that the Croatian coast and islands boast as many as five national parks − then getting to know the Croatian sea and coast turns into a unique, fun and memorable experience. There are few who can pride themselves on knowing the Croatian coast well, but there are many who return to it year after year, enjoying discovering the authentic beauty adorning the Croatian Adriatic located in the heart of the European continent. Thanks to archipelagos that stretch along the entire coast, the Croatian sea is well protected and abounds with safe harbours that you can take refuge in. Which port to sail into might turn out to be a more difficult

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01 Pustinja Blaca, otok Brač The Blaca Hermitage on the Island of Brač

dilemma, because most islands are home to charming coastal towns boasting a rich history, centres in which life has been preserved and which, in the warmer months of the year, get draped in particularly beautiful and colourful shades. It’s actually impossible to choose the most beautiful bays of the Croatian Adriatic because there are so many and because they’re so diverse.

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Finding the most beautiful for you personally is a challenge for everyone. While discovering the bays and coastal towns of Croatia’s islands, make sure you taste their native varieties of wine, which there are as many as 130 of in Croatia. Many of them originate exclusively from islands, such as the grk variety from the Island of Korčula, the vugava variety from the Island of Vis, the bogdanuša variety from the Island of Hvar, the dobričić variety from the Island of Šolta and the žlahtina variety from the Island of Krk. The only word you need to learn in Croatian is the one for cheers − živjeli! And while you sip at your wine, make sure you have a bite of some Mediterranean food, which has been recognised even by UNESCO and is included in the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Thanks to the Adriatic being rich in seafood, fish has a very important place on the menu. Croatians even say that, in Croatia, fish swim three times. It first swims in the pristine waters of the Adriatic, then in olive oil during cooking, and finally in the wine that you drink alongside your meal. The islands also have their own traditions and recipes:

the Vis bread pie called viška pogača, coal grilled skewered lamb offal called vitalac on Brač, dormouse delicacies on Hvar… Croatia’s islands also boast many manmade attractions. Proudly and rightly showing off its impeccable 23.36-kilometre-long dry stone walls, it’s difficult to top the islet of Baljenac near Šibenik, whose area is only 0.14 km2. Be sure to explore the Stari Grad Plains on the Island of Hvar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the magnificent Blaca Monastery and Hermitage, which houses a piano that was carried up to the monastery by nine priests who reportedly drank 56 litres of wine along the way, the mysterious Dragon’s Cave on the Island of Brač, and the military caves and tunnels on the Island of Vis. Tradition? From the carnival on the Island of Lastovo to the Easter procession on Hvar, Croatia’s islands have been working hard on preserving their heritage, so make sure you check with the local tourist office to find out which festivals are held during your stay. The only question that remains is − what kind of island experience are you looking for in Croatia? 

GASTRO

PAŠKI SIR, OD TANJURA KONOBE DO MICHELINOVIH RESTORANA

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Tekst i fotografije / Text and photos _ Šime Lugarov

PAG ISLAND CHEESE, FROM TAVERN PLATES TO MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS Piše/By _ Albert Donsky Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

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Upravo paška ovca i paški sir odrednice su i poveznice cijelog otoka, njegov identitetski kod. Paški je sir poslastica koju jednako treba cijeniti u maloj konobi i u vrhunskom restoranu. Pag island sheep and Pag island cheese are the island’s binding force, its identity code. Pag island cheese has been known for being a delicacy that you should delight in regardless of whether you’re in a small tavern or a top restaurant.

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ag, najrazvedeniji jadranski otok dug šezdeset kilometara, rasprostro se uzdužno ispod Velebita, gdje stoljećima prkosi njegovu zaštitnom znaku − buri. Cijeli otok, pa i sjeveroistočna, vegetacijski potpuno gola strana, iscrtan je slikovitim suhozidima. Neupućenima je sasvim nejasno čemu oni služe sve dok u toj goleti ne primijete ovce koje se zimi sklanjaju od bure, a ljeti od sunca. U zimskim mjesecima, kada stolove renomiranih hrvatskih restorana preplavi

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čuvena poslastica − paška janjetina, započinje mužnja ovaca i proces izrade paškog sira. Od tih škrtih i nevidljivih pašnjaka zasipanih posolicom zimi, do bogate ispaše aromatičnom proljetnom vegetacijom koja nakratko oboji kamene plohe otoka intenzivnim bojama (posebno ljubičastom kaduljom), proljeće, to jest svibanj, doba je kad se radi najbolji sir − poznati majski. Uza sve gastronomske blagodati kojima se mogu pohvaliti i drugi jadranski otoci, otok Pag krasi i ta jedinstvena poslastica

− ovčji sir. Priča o paškoj ovci, od izvorne domaće pramenke, priča je o mukotrpnom radu, brizi o ovcama na pašnjaku, svakodnevnoj mužnji i vrhunskom umijeću pravljenja sira. Upravo paška ovca i paški sir odrednice su i poveznice cijelog otoka, njegov identitetski kod. Još i prije nego li je putopisac Alberto Fortis, putujući Dalmacijom 1774. godine, pisao o proizvodima s otoka Paga i paškom siru, pa sve do danas, kad se paški sir proizvodi u ozbiljnim količinama

i kvaliteti te se osvajaju i svjetske nagrade (Paška sirana, Gligora, MIH), kad postoje iznimno kvalitetni srednje veliki proizvođači (Figurica, Vidas), paški je sir poslastica koju jednako treba cijeniti u maloj konobi i u vrhunskom restoranu (Boškinac).  U članku su korištene fotografije Damira Fabijanića, koji već skoro pola stoljeća snima Pag i koje će uskoro biti objavljene u njegovoj monografiji Pagradotok (o gradu i otoku Pagu). fabijanic.com

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ag, the most indented, sixty-kilometre-long island in the Adriatic, stretches longitudinally below Velebit Mountain, where it’s been withstanding Velebit’s hallmark since time immemorial − the north-northeast bora wind. The island as a whole − including even its north-eastern, completely barren side − is covered with picturesque dry stone walls. Many are uninformed about their purpose until, in this barrenness, they start spotting sheep taking shelter − in winter from the bora and in summer from the sun. The milking of sheep and the process of making Pag island cheese begins in the winter months, when the tables of Croatia’s best restaurants start abounding with the island’s famous delicacy − Pag island lamb. The time when the best cheese is made is spring, May to be precise, hence the name May cheese. And all this thanks to Pag’s pastures which are poor, invisible and sprayed with salt in winter, yet rich and covered with aromatic spring vegetation that briefly paints the island’s rocks and stone surfaces in intense colours (purple sage in particular). Although all the other islands in the Adriatic can and do boast of different gastronomic treats, the island of Pag prides itself on one unique delicacy − sheep cheese. The story of Pag’s sheep, its native domestic pramenka breed, is a story of hard work, taking good care of them while they pasture, daily milking and the amazing skill in cheese making. Pag island sheep and Pag island cheese are the island’s binding force, its identity code. Today, Pag island cheese is produced in serious quantities and of high quality which has been winning it world awards (e.g., the Paška sirana, Gligora and MIH cheese factories). Moreover, there are medium-sized producers (e.g., the Figurica and Vidas cheese factories) that make cheese of exceptional quality. However, long before today, even long before the travel writer Alberto Fortis wrote about the island products from Pag and Pag island cheese whilst travelling through Dalmatia in 1774, Pag island cheese has been known for being a delicacy that you should delight in regardless of whether you’re in a small tavern or a top restaurant (Boškinac Restaurant).  The photographs used in this article have been shot by Damir Fabijanić, who’s been photographing the Island of Pag for almost half a century. They’re about to see the light of day in the form of a monograph entitled Pagradotok (about the town and Island of Pag). fabijanic.com

Paški ovčji sir vrhunske kvalitete osvojio je brojne svjetske nagrade Pag island sheep cheese of the highest quality has won many world awards

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Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr • info@dalmatia.hr

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NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

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KREATIVNO SRCE EUROPE THE CREATIVE HEART OF EUROPE

B NW / Unsplash

Tekst/Text _ Zürich Tourism

Od Zračne luke Zürich, koja je izravno povezana sa 170 odredišta diljem svijeta, vlakom ćete stići do glavnoga kolodvora u Zürichu za samo deset minuta. Zürich je idealna polazna točka za istraživanje Švicarske i živopisni grad na rijeci Limmat koji živi cijele godine. Zürich Airport, which has direct connections to 170 destinations all over the world, is just a 10-minute train ride from the centrally located Zürich Main Station. Zürich is an ideal starting point for your exploration of Switzerland and a vibrant city on the Limmat River that’s full of life all year round. CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

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01 Skate park Brunau

Brunau Skate Park 02 Crkva Fraumünster s velikim panoramskim kotačem The Fraumünster Church with a big wheel in front of it

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01 Most u četvrti Zürich West Zürich West district bridge 02 Hotel Storchen Storchen Hotel

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C. Burri / Unsplash

ürich se nalazi u srcu Europe i podnožju švicarskih Alpa. Na vrlo malenom području objedinjuje kreativan gradski život i idiličan krajolik. Ljubitelji prirode koji žele uživati u svježem zraku i zelenilu oduševit će se time što je grad smješten uz jezero, njegovim bogatstvom šuma i parkova te njegovom planinom Üetliberg. Voda je sveprisutna u Zürichu. Jezero Zürich, uz koje je grad sagrađen, i rijeka Limmat, koja se izvija između građevina Staroga grada i mladih, urbanih četvrti, gradu daju osvježavajući mediteranski dojam. Voda iznimne kvalitete i ugodna okusa teče iz gradskih slavina i 1200 javnih fontana. Bilo da je riječ o sportovima na vodi, toplicama ili najvećem europskom vodopadu, slapovima Rajne, Zürich pruža brojna iskustva vezana uz vodu, od opuštajućih do adrenalinskih. Jeste li znali da je Zürich sa svojih 25 Badisa, kupališta na otvorenome uz obalu rijeke ili jezera, grad s najvećom koncentracijom kupališta na svijetu? Umjetnost i kultura od presudne su važnosti za Zürich jer se grad već u srednjem vijeku dokazao svojom avangardnošću − naime, bio je vodeće središte proizvodnje i trgovine svilom u 13. stoljeću, izvorište umjetničkog pokreta Dada na početku 20. stoljeća, a kasnije i konstruktivizma, te rodno mjesto brojnih istaknutih umjetnika i intelektualaca. U nekom trenutku svaka iznimna ličnost dođe u Zürich, rekao je jednom švicarski pisac i građanin Züricha Robert Walser. Zürich uistinu ima poseban šarm kojim privlači istaknute književnike. A kad je riječ o kreativnosti, i za Zürich vrijedi poznata uzrečica: Ako uspijete ovdje, uspjet ćete bilo gdje. Poznavateljima umjetnosti i ljubiteljima kulture na raspolaganju je više od 50 muzeja i 100 galerija, a znatiželjni istraživači

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01 Rijeka Limmat u četvrti Zürich West The Limmat River in the Zürich West district 02 Pogled na trg Central A view of Central Square 03 Trg Escher Wyss Platz Escher Wyss Square

upustit će se u otkrivanje zapanjujućega kontrasta između slikovitog Staroga grada i modernih, urbanih četvrti koje se neprestano mijenjaju. Tako, primjerice, Zürich-West, četvrt koja se neprestano mijenja, ujedinjuje industrijsku prošlost grada s urbanim napretkom i raznolikošću zabavnih aktivnosti. U nekadašnjoj industrijskoj četvrti Kreis 5 strojevi su ustupili mjesto umjetnosti, dizajnu, gastronomiji, shoppingu i glazbi. Nekadašnjoj industrijskoj četvrti u kojoj su nekoć zveckali

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strojevi, a čađa zagađivala zrak, trendovski sadržaji udahnuli su nov život. Od luksuznih do međunarodnih brendova, od tradicionalnih obrta do urbanih robnih marki − shopping u Zürichu nadahnut će ljubitelje ekskluzivnosti i obožavatelje mode. Legendarne institucije, nadahnjujuća vibra i multikulturalni utjecaji − nije slučajno što se Zürich smatra centrom izvrsnosti dizajna. U kalendaru događanja u Zürichu ističu se ulična parada, gradski festival Züri Fäscht, ljetni koncerti i kinopredstave na otvorenome, atletsko natjecanje Weltklasse Zürich te Čarolija novogodišnje noći, koju organiziraju gradski hotelijeri. Osim toga, bogat noćni život, koji obuhvaća najširi izbor zabavnih sadržaja u Švicarskoj, savršeno će odgovarati ljubiteljima noćne zabave i mladima duhom. Sunce još ni ne zađe, a ugledni grad na Limmatu

već pokazuje sasvim novo ruho: ovdje, u kozmopolitskom središtu Švicarske, gdje se stapaju različite kulture, mladenačka energija i vizije, noć se slavi, a u mraku se stvara novi svijet. Na malenom prostoru Zürich posjetiteljima nudi vrhunske klubove, barove i koncertne lokacije. Restoranska scena u Zürichu podjednako je raznolika kao i ovaj grad. Nudi više od 2000 ugostiteljskih objekata, od nagrađivanih restorana visoke gastronomije do tradicionalnih cehovskih taverni s bogatom prošlošću, sve do neobičnih lokala u tvorničkim halama. Bilo da je riječ o street foodu, slow foodu ili visokoj gastronomiji, festival FOOD ZURICH u cijelosti je posvećen okusnim pupoljcima. Tijekom jedanaest dana festival slavi bogatu i šaroliku kulinarsku kulturu Züricha. Ovdje se eksperimentalna švicarska jela nalaze uz bok tradicionalnim receptima i međunarodnim novotarijama, a istaknuti restorani svoju hranu poslužuju na neočekivanim novim lokacijama. Christian Bärtsch, koji je 2013. suosnovao startup Essento, razvija proizvode od jestivih kukaca, a cilj mu je Švicarsku uvesti u životni stil budućnosti. Zürich je nadaleko poznat kao bankovna i shopping metropola, ali i kao grad inovacija, znanosti i promjena. U 16. stoljeću, pod vodstvom Huldrycha Zwinglija i njegova nasljednika Heinricha Bullingera, Zürich je postao izvorište i središte pokreta reformacije na njemačkom govornom području Švicarske. Danas crkve, spomenici i građevine pozivaju posjetitelje da istraže Zürich tragom kršćanstva i reformacije. Godine 2019. Zürich je proslavio 500. godišnjicu pokreta reformacije. Otkako je Huldrych Zwingli pokrenuo reformaciju iz Züricha, grad je nastavio biti izvor pokretanja društvenih promjena. Primjerice, rad znanstvenika Reta Knuttija aktivno potiče ljude da promijene način razmišljanja. Profesor na ETH-u u Zürichu Reto Knutti razvija računalne modele koji simuliraju klimatske promjene. Po njegovu mišljenju, prenošenje poruke koja stoji iza podataka jednako je važno kao i podaci. Ovaj grad savršeno je okruženje za inovatore poput Christiana Bärtscha ili Reta Knuttija. Valja podsjetiti i na Sveučilište u Zürichu osnovano 1833. godine te Savezni tehnološki institut na kojemu su svjetsku slavu brusila i na kraju stekla Nobelovu nagradu dva Hrvata: Lavoslav Ružička i Vladimir Prelog.

I na kraju ne može se ne spomenuti... Zürich je privlačan i kao beskrajno slatko okupljalište ljubitelja čokolade, ali i kao obiteljsko odredište. Grad i okolica jezera Zürich nude mnoštvo uzbudljivih i raznolikih atrakcija i izletišta koji su posebno pogodni za djecu. 

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ürich is situated in the very heart of Europe and at the foot of the Swiss Alps. It unites creative city life and idyllic scenery within the smallest of areas. Nature lovers seeking fresh air and green open spaces will delight in the city’s location directly by a lake, in its abundant expanses of forest and urban parkland, and in its very own mountain, the Uetliberg. Water is omnipresent in Zürich. Lake Zürich, around which the city is built, and the Limmat River, which winds its way past Zürich’s Old Town buildings and through up-and-coming urban quarters, lend it a refreshing Mediterranean ambiance. Top-quality, pleasanttasting drinking water flows from the city’s water taps, as well as from its 1,200 public fountains. Whether with watersports, wellness facilities or Europe’s mightiest waterfall, the Rhine Falls, Zürich entices with a variety of watery experiences, ranging from laid back to action packed. Did you know that with its 25 Badis (open-air riverside or lakeside bathing areas) Zürich is the city with the highest concentration of bathing facilities in the world? Art and culture play a key role in Zürich, for the city proved to be avant-garde as early

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as the Middle Ages − as a major centre for silk production and silk trade in the 13th century, as the birthplace of the Dada art movement at the beginning of the 20th century and later of Constructivism, or as the hometown of many important artists and intellectuals either by birth or choice. At some stage, every outstanding person comes to Zürich, Swiss author and Zürich resident Robert Walser once said. Indeed, Zürich seems to have a special attraction for outstanding literati. As far as creative work is concerned, the same applies: If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere. Art connoisseurs and culture enthusiasts have over 50 museums and more than 100 galleries to choose from, while inquisitive city explorers can discover the striking contrast between the picturesque Old Town and Zürich’s modern, constantly changing parts of town.

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01 Mural ispred bara Amboss Rampe A graffiti mural outside the Amboss Rampe Bart

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02 Glavni kolodvor u Zürichu Zürich Main Station

Zürich’s restaurant scene is just as diverse as the city itself. Its over 2,000 restaurants range from award-winning gourmet establishments to traditional guild houses with an eventful past, right through to out-of-theordinary venues in factory halls. Whether street food, slow food or haute cuisine, at Food Zürich anything goes as long as it stimulates the taste buds. Over a period of eleven days, the festival celebrates Zürich’s culinary culture in all its many facets. This is where experimental Swiss dishes meet traditional recipes and international trends, while seasoned restaurants serve it up at surprising new venues. Christian Bärtsch of Essento develops products made from edible insects. Economist Christian Bärtsch was one of the founders of the Essento startup in 2013. He now intends to introduce Switzerland to a lifestyle of the future. Zürich is renowned far and wide as a banking and shopping metropolis, but less so as a city of innovation, science, and change. In the 16th century, under Huldrych Zwingli and his successor, Heinrich Bullinger, Zürich became the birthplace and centre of the Reformation in German-speaking Switzerland. Nowadays, churches, monuments and buildings invite visitors to explore Zürich on the trail of Christianity and the Reformation. In 2019, Zürich celebrated the 500th anniversary of the Reformation. Ever since Huldrych Zwingli set the Reformation in motion from his base in Zürich, the city has continued to be a source of stimulus for societal change. It is a perfect environment for innovators, such as Christian Bärtsch or Reto Knutti.

C. Schwarz / Unsplash

For example, in the district where in days gone by machines clattered and soot lingered in the air, a trendy entertainment mile has now breathed new life into a former industrial quarter. In today’s constant state of change, Zürich West unites the city’s industrial past with urban advances and a diversity of leisure activities. Here, in the Kreis 5 quarter, machines have given way to art, design, gastronomy, shopping and music. From luxury to international brands, and from tradition-steeped businesses to urban Zürich labels − shopping in Zürich inspires both aficionados of exclusive items and lovers of fashion. Legendary institutions, an inspiring vibe and international influences − it is no coincidence that Zürich is regarded as a centre of excellence in design. The highlights of Zürich’s event calendar include the Street Parade, the Zürich Festival, open-air concerts and cinemas in summer, the Zürich World Class and the New Year’s Eve Magic organised by Zürich’s hoteliers. In addition, the city’s vibrant nightlife, offering the widest choice of entertainment facilities in Switzerland, is perfectly suited to night owls and the young-at-heart. Hardly does the sun set than the respectable City on the Limmat shows its completely different side: here, in Switzerland’s melting pot, where different cultures, young energy and visions converge, the night is celebrated and in the darkness the world is reinvented. Within a compact area, Zürich offers visitors a world-class choice of clubs, bars, and music venues.

Through his work, climate researcher Reto Knutti actively encourages people to change the way they think. ETH Zürichbased professor Reto Knutti has been developing computer models that simulate climate change. To him, delivering the message behind the data is just as important as the data itself. We must not forget the University of Zürich, founded in 1833, and the ETH Institute of Technology, where two Croats − Lavoslav Ružička and Vladimir Prelog − worked to achieve global renown, ultimately winning the Nobel Prize. And finally, it’s worth mentioning that Zürich is a deliciously sweet melting pot of international visionaries, experts and chocolate lovers, but also a family destination. Both the city and the region around Lake Zürich have a host of exciting and varied attractions and excursion options that are particularly suitable for children. 

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MERIDIJANI MERIDIANS

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Putovanja su najbolji način da izađemo iz poznatih okvira svakodnevnice, prepustimo se avanturi i istraživanju, dozvoljavajući svijetu nas iznenadi. Idealno mjesto da to sve doživimo jest zapad Sjedinjenih Američkih Država. Travelling is the best way to go beyond the familiar framework of everyday life, to embark on an adventure and go exploring, letting the world surprise you. An ideal place to experience all this is the Western United States.

Tekst i fotografije / Text and photos _ Šime Lugarov

01 Grand Canyon najveći je i najdublji klanac na svijetu i smatra se jednim od sedam svjetskih čuda prirode The Grand Canyon, the largest and deepest canyon in the world and one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World 02 Kućica spasilačke službe na plaži u Veniceu A lifeguard tower on Venice Beach 03 Plaža Sunset Cliffs u San Diegu Sunset Cliffs in San Diego 03

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nogi među nama ne mogu odoljeti želji za avanturom i putovanjima na kojima će upiti nova iskustava s kojima povratak u svakodnevicu daje novu perspektivu i svježi pogled na život, mjesta i ljude koji nas okružuju. Vjerojatno je i to razlog zašto uživamo u filmovima ceste, gdje se glavni junaci odvaže na put u nepoznato, neistraženo. Idealno mjesto da se doživi spomenuta avantura jest zapad Sjedinjenih Američkih Država. Grad anđela, Grad svjetla, Grad pored zaljeva nadimci su nekih od najvećih i najljepših gradova zapada SAD-a. Međutim, uza sve zanimljivosti i ljepote koje pružaju spomenuti gradovi, neizostavne su i prirodne ljepote Kalifornije, Arizone i Nevade, koje najintenzivnije možete doživjeti putujete li beskrajnim

cestama tih saveznih država. Los Angeles, najveći grad u Kaliforniji, poznat i pod nadimcima L.A. i Grad anđela, središte je filmske, televizijske i glazbene industrije. Ljudi iz cijelog svijeta slijevaju se u L.A. zbog ugodne klime, kilometarskih plaža, mjesta koja su postala prepoznatljiva iz različitih serija i filmova. U centru grada dominiraju neboderi, gužva, ali i simpatični street food štandovi koji nude raznovrsnu hranu te kafići u kojima možete popiti specijalne kave iz cijeloga svijeta. Grad je prepun predivnih murala ulične umjetnosti. Svakako vrijedi posjetiti plažu u Veniceu, popularni Venice Beach, koji vrvi različitim sportskim aktivnostima, od košarke, trčanja, skejtanja u poznatom skate parku, do vježbanja u legendarnoj

01 Tramvaj je istinska ikona San Francisca A cable car, San Francisco’s true icon 02 Neizostavna turistička atrakcija San Francisca zasigurno je most Golden Gate The Golden Gate Bridge is San Francisco’s must-visit tourist attraction

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teretani Muscle Beach na otvorenome. Vrhunski sportski spektakl nudi se i na košarkaškim utakmicama jednog od najpoznatijih klubova na svijetu, L.A. Lakersa. Holivudska staza slavnih neizostavni je dio turističke ponude, a brežuljcima Hollywooda najljepše se provozati turističkim autobusom. Užurbanost Los Angelesa mijenjaju nepregledna prostranstva pustinje Mojave. Tamnoplavo nebo sa sitnim oblacima poput bisera, slana jezera, teretni vlakovi u daljini, lagani povjetarac, crvene stijene i iznenađujuće raznobojno cvijeće i bilje. Vrijeme je supercvata (superbloom), rijet-

koga pustinjskog botaničkog fenomena u kojem neuobičajeno mnogo divljeg cvijeća čije sjeme miruje u pustinjskom tlu niče i cvjeta istodobno. Fenomen je povezan s neobično vlažnom kišnom sezonom te se zadnji ovakvog intenziteta dogodio prije četrdesetak godina. Meditativnom vožnjom pustinjom Mojave dolazi se do svjetske prijestolnice zabave, Las Vegasa, najmnogoljudnijega grada u državi Nevadi. Najpoznatiji je po kockanju u casino hotelima, noćnom životu i zabavi, kupovini i vjenčanjima u specijaliziranim kapelicama. Pravo lice grada otkriva se noću, sve je prepuno svjetala i neon-

skih reklama, kao da se hoteli natječu za pažnju posjetitelja. Na svakom uglu čeka nova atrakcija. Replike Kipa slobode, Eiffelova tornja, sfinge, noćne predstave fontana ispred hotela Bellagio. Atmosfera u kockarnicama opuštena je, osoblje vrlo profesionalno i ugodno. Las Vegas zaista je grad namijenjen provodu. Nekoliko sati vožnje od Las Vegasa nalazi se jedno od sedam svjetskih čuda prirode, Grand Canyon, koji je sastavni dio istoimenoga nacionalnog parka, jednoga od najstarijih u SAD-u. Klanac je to veoma strmih litica koji je izdubila rijeka Colorado u američkoj saveznoj državi

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Arizoni te ujedno najveći i najdublji klanac na svijetu. Vraćamo se u južnu Kaliforniju, i to u grad San Diego, neposredno uz meksičku granicu. San Diego specifičan je grad u kojem se isprepleću različite djelatnosti, od brodogradnje, ribarstva i industrije zrakoplova do kulture i proizvodnje craft piva. Grad je iznimno dinamičan, s puno parkova, brežuljaka i raznovrsne arhitekture. Nazivaju ga i glavnim gradom craft pivarstva, s više od 150 pivovara, bezbroj pivskih barova, inovativnim kušaonicama i pivskom kulturom. Najpoznatiji park povijesni je Balboa park, jedan od najstarijih u Sjedinjenim Američkim Državama posvećen javnoj rekreaciji. Uz područja otvorenog prostora, vrtove i šetnice, park sadrži muzeje, kazališta i svjetski poznati zoološki vrt. Tu su također i mnogi rekreacijski sadržaji te nekoliko suvenirnica i restorana. Balboa Park bio je domaćin izložbe Paname i Kalifornije 1915.−1916. te Kalifornijske međunarodne izložbe 1935.−1936., a obje su ostavile arhitektonske znamenitosti. Park i njegove

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povijesne izložbene zgrade proglašeni su nacionalnim povijesnim znamenitostima i nacionalnim povijesnim okrugom 1977. godine, a uvrštene su i u Nacionalni registar povijesnih lokaliteta. Jedan od najimpresivnijih muzeja u San Diegu jest onaj brodski, nosač zrakoplova U.S.S. Midway koji je bio u službi od 1945. do 1992. godine. U muzeju posjetitelji mogu razgledati zrakoplove raznih povijesnih razdoblja, kao i hangare, sobe za sastanke mornaričkih pilota i privatne prostorije mornara. U San Diegu postoje i prirodna staništa morskih lavova koja se mogu vidjeti na sedam različitih mjesta duž obale. Na sjeveru Kalifornije čeka nas San Francisco, četvrti kalifornijski grad po veličini te jedan od najprepoznatljivijih gradova SAD-a. Najznačajnija je znamenitost jedan od najpoznatijih svjetskih mostova, crveni most Golden Gate, koji povezuje zaljev San Francisco i Tihi ocean. Odmah uz bok mostu Golden Gate nalazi se i ikona grada, sustav žičara koji je ujedno i posljednji ručni sustav žičare na svijetu. Ovdje su i brojni parkovi, od kojih je

najpoznatiji Golden Gate Park, i morske plaže, kao što je Baker Beach. U blizini grada nalazi se otok Alcatraz s najpoznatijim američkim zatvorom, koji je danas turistička atrakcija. Svakako vrijedan spomena jest i Alamo Square Park, s kojeg se pogled pruža na veći dio centra San Francisca te niz velikih i arhitektonski prepoznatljivih palača, uključujući Painted Ladies, niz viktorijanskih kuća okrenutih parku u ulici Steiner, najpoznatijih po pojavljivanju u televizijskoj seriji Puna kuća. Pristanište Fisherman’s Wharf na sjevernoj obali jedno je od najprometnijih turističkih područja grada. Na svakom uglu nalaze se suvenirnice i štandovi na kojima se prodaju rakovi i juha od školjki poslužena u zdjelama od tijesta te se pružaju nezaboravni pogledi na zaljev, Golden Gate i Alcatraz. U pristaništu postoji i kolonija morskih lavova, povijesni brodovi koje se može razgledati kao i muzej starih arkadnih igara. Avantura se završava vožnjom Državnom rutom 1 (Pacific Coast Highway), glavnom

01 Park na Alamo Squareu i prvi red kuća u pozadini postali su poznati zahvaljujući popularnoj TV seriji Puna kuća Alamo Square Park and the first row of houses in the background have become famous for appearing in the American sitcom Full House 02 Popularni Venice Beach Skate Park otvoren je krajem 2009. godine The popular Venice Beach Skate Park opened in late 2009 03 Mural na ulazu u kinesku četvrt San Francisca A mural at the entrance to San Francisco’s Chinatown

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01 Prepoznatljivi simboli Las Vegasa, noćna svjetla i neonske reklame na Las Vegas Stripu Las Vegas’s distinctive symbols, night lights and neon signs on the Las Vegas Strip 02 Izložba oldtimera u San Diegu An exhibition of classic and vintage cars in San Diego 03 Koncertna dvorana Walt Disney u Los Angelesu The Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles

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državnom magistralom sjever-jug koja prolazi duž većine pacifičke obale Kalifornije, poznatoj kao jednoj od najslikovitijih vožnji na svijetu. Uz magistralu neprestano se izmjenjuju predivni pogledi na razvedenu obalu, primorska sela, netaknute šume, farme domaćih životinja, plantaže raznovrsnog voća te sunčane četvrti za proizvodnju vina, nepregledna prostranstva... I bude želju za novim iskustvima koja bi bilo divno doživjeti. 

any of us can’t resist the urge to embark on an adventure and to explore new places, where we’ll get to absorb new experiences, thanks to which our return to everyday life will be made easier because these experiences give us a new perspective and a fresh outlook on life, places and people around us. This is probably the reason why we love road movies so much whose main characters venture into the unknown and unexplored. An ideal place to experience such an adventure is the Western United States. The

City of Angels, the City of Light, the City by the Bay is what some of the biggest and most beautiful cities in the Western United States are nicknamed. However, besides their urban attraction and allure, the natural attractions of the landscapes of California, Arizona and Nevada are also a must-see, which you’ll experience most intensely if you travel the endless roads of these federal states. Los Angeles − the largest city in California abbreviated to L.A. or nicknamed the City of Angels − is the heart of the film, television and music industries. People from all over the world flock to L.A. because of its pleasant climate, miles of beaches, places that have become famous as sets of many different series and movies. Downtown Los Angeles is dominated by skyscrapers and crowds, but also by adorable street food stalls offering a variety of foods, and cafes offering special coffees from around the world. The city is jam-packed with fascinating street art murals. Venice Beach is definitely worth a visit. It’s teeming with people do-

ing a variety of sport activities, from basketball, jogging, skating in Venice Beach’s famous skate park, to working out in the legendary Muscle Beach Venice Outdoor Gym. The basketball games of one of the most famous basketball clubs in the world, L.A. Lakers, are sure to be a top sport spectacle. The Hollywood Walk of Fame is a must-see, and if you want to absorb Hollywood Hills, your best bet would be to take a sightseeing bus. The vast expanses of the Mojave Desert leave the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles behind − a dark blue sky spotted with tiny clouds that look like pearls, salt lakes, freight trains in the distance, a light breeze, red rocks and a surprisingly colourful array of flowers and plants. It’s super-bloom season, a rare desert botanical phenomenon in which an unusually large number of wildflowers whose seeds have lain dormant in desert soil germinate and blossom at the same time. The phenomenon is associated with unusually wet rainy seasons. The last super-bloom of this intensity happened some forty or so years ago.

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To get to Las Vegas − the Entertainment Capital of the World and the largest city by population in the state of Nevada − take a meditative ride through the Mojave Desert. Vegas is best known for its casino hotels, nightlife and entertainment, shopping and weddings in speciality wedding chapels and venues. The best time to experience the city’s true face is at night, when everything’s brimming over with lights and neon signs. It’s as if hotels are competing for your attention. There’s a new attraction at every corner − replicas of the Statue of Liberty, the Eiffel Tower and sphinxes, the fountain show outside Bellagio Hotel at night. The ambiance in the casinos is very easy-going and the staff very professional and pleasant. Las Vegas is truly built for entertainment. A few hours from Las Vegas is where one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World is − the Grand Canyon. It’s part of a national park of the same name, which is one of the oldest in the United States. It’s a steep-sided canyon carved by the Colorado River in the state of Arizona, and the

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largest and deepest canyon in the world. We’re going back to Southern California, to a city on the Mexican border, to be precise. San Diego is a peculiar city where different activities and businesses intertwine, from shipbuilding, fishing and the aircraft industry to culture and craft beer production. The city’s extremely dynamic, boasts lots of parks, hills and different architectural styles. It’s been called the Craft Beer Capital of America because it’s home to more than 150 breweries, countless beer bars, creative tasting rooms and a booming beer culture. San Diego is also home to the most famous historical park, Balboa Park, one of the oldest in the United States dedicated to public recreational use. In addition to open space areas, natural vegetation zones, green belts, gardens and walking paths, it contains museums, several theatres and the world-famous San Diego Zoo. There are also many recreational facilities and several gift shops and restaurants. Balboa Park hosted the 1915-16 Panama-California Exposition and 1935-36 California Pacific International

Exposition, both of which left architectural landmarks. The park and its historic exposition buildings were declared a National Historic Landmark and a National Historic Landmark District in 1977, and are listed in the National Register of Historic Places. One of the most impressive museums in San Diego is the U.S.S. Midway Museum dedicated to the U.S.S. Midway Aircraft Carrier which served from 1945 to 1992. The museum also has aircraft from different historical periods on display, and its aircraft hangars, aircraft carrier ready rooms and sleeping quarters can be entered and viewed. San Diego also boasts natural habitats for sea lions that can be spotted in seven different places along the coast. We’re heading off to the fourth largest city in California and one of the most recognisable cities in the United States − San Francisco in Northern California. The city’s most impressive landmark is one of the world’s most famous bridges, the red Golden Gate Bridge connecting San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean. Besides

the Golden Gate Bridge, the city’s other icon is its cable car system, the world’s last manually operated cable car system. San Francisco boasts many parks, the most famous of which is the Golden Gate Park, and beaches, such as Baker Beach. San Francisco overlooks the Island of Alcatraz, home to the most famous American prison, today a tourist attraction. Alamo Square Park should also be singled out. It overlooks much of downtown San Francisco and a number of large and architecturally impressive palaces, including Painted Ladies, a series of Victorian houses facing the park on Steiner Street, best known for appearing as landscape shots for the American sitcom Full House. Fisherman’s Wharf on the north coast is one of San Francisco’s busiest tourist

attractions. Offering unforgettable views of San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate and Alcatraz, there’re gift shops and stalls selling crab and clam chowder served in sourdough bread bowls at every corner. San Francisco’s piers are also home to a colony of sea lions, historic ships that can be viewed and a museum of vintage arcade games. The adventure ends with a ride down the Pacific Coast Highway leg of State Route 1. It’s a major north-south state highway that runs along most of the Pacific Coastline of California and is one of the most scenic highways in the world. Along the highway, stunning views stretch of the indented coastline, coastal towns, pristine forests, animal farms, different fruit plantations and sunny neighbourhoods ideal for wine production, vast expanses... awakening your desire for new experiences that would be wonderful to have. 

01 Prirodoslovni muzej San Diega The San Diego Natural History Museum 02 Holivudska šetnica slavnih The Hollywood Walk of Fame

03 Ulični prizor u Hollywoodu A street in Hollywood

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MODA FASHION

Piše/By _ Dubravka Prpić Znaor

Patrizia Donà pri dizajniranju torbi nadahnjuje se starinskim pisaćim strojevima, a osobito pažnju posvećuje detaljima. Patrizia Donà’s handbag designs, in which she pays particular attention to detail, are inspired by vintage typewriters. 84 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

atrizia Donà kreativka je hrvatskotalijanskog porijekla koja dizajniranju torbi pristupa na umjetnički način te se nadahnjuje starinskim pisaćim strojevima. Potpisuje tri kolekcije torbi koje otkrivaju čudesan svijet oblika s naglaskom na detalje kao što su − tipke sa slovima. − Detalji su ono što ove torbe čini posebnima − kaže Patrizia, vlasnica brenda Laboratorio Donà. − Svi metalni dijelovi i tipke izrađuju se u raznim obrtničkim radnjama po mojim idejama − nacrtima. Na prvih stotinjak torbi ugrađene su bile originalne tipke sa starih pisaćih strojeva, no kako je potražnja za Remingtonkama rasla, odlučila sam 2013. godine pokrenuti vlastitu proizvodnju tipki. Nedavno je njezina kolekcija Qwerty Elemental dobila prestižnu nagradu Platinum A’Design u kategoriji modnih dodataka. No i druge su njezine kolekcije nagrađene više puta, a bile su i dijelom brojnih izložbi. Njezin je modni put započeo na sajmu antikviteta u Rotterdamu, gdje je 2006. diplomirala modni dizajn. − Kupila sam staru Remingtonku, krenula je proučavati, njezin me kompleksni mehanizam fascinirao. Rastavila sam je na dijelove i rekonstruirala, ugradivši poluge s tipkama, odnosno cijelu tipkovnicu u kožnu torbu. Ta prva torba bila je predstavljena na Amsterdam Fashion Weeku i odmah se prodala. Kreacija je bila početak kolekcije Ho mmage à Remington, koja je na 43. Zagrebačkom salonu osvojila nagradu za dizajn, a nakon toga uslijedila su i druga priznanja. − Godine 2015. započela sam suradnju s tvornicom Galko, u čijem se proizvodnom pogonu izrađuje Qwerty Elemental, linija torbi namijenjena za svakodnevnu uporabu. Tvornica Galko opremljena je suvremenim strojevima za izradu kožne galanterije te kroji i šiva na visokokvalitetnoj razini − govori dizajnerica. Druge dvije linije, Qwerty Limited i Qwerty Unique, koje su kompleksnije, u potpunosti su ručno izrađene u Italiji, a proizvode se u malim serijama. 

atrizia Donà is a creative of CroatianItalian descent whose approach to handbag design is artistic and who draws inspiration from vintage typewriters. She’s designed three collections of handbags featuring an amazing array of shapes, forms and details such as − typewriter keys. − What makes these handbags special are their details − says Patrizia, owner of the Laboratorio Donà brand. − All the metal parts and typewriter keys are made by different craft sole traders based on my ideas and designs. The first hundred or so handbags were fitted with original keys from vintage typewriters, but as demand for Remington typewriters started growing, in 2013 I decided to start my own typewriter key production. Patrizia’s Qwerty Elemental collection has recently received the prestigious Platinum A’Design award in the Fashion and Travel Accessories Design Category. Her other collections have also been awarded several times, and have been exhibited on a number of occasions. Her fashion design journey began at the antique flea market of Rotterdam, where she graduated in 2006 in fashion design. − I bought an old Remington typewriter and started exploring and inspecting it, I was fascinated by its complex mechanism. I disassembled and then reconstructed it, and I incorporated its entire keyboard into a leather handbag. That very first handbag was presented at the Amsterdam Fashion Week and sold immediately. This design of hers was how her Hommage à Remington collection got started, which won a design award at the 43rd Zagreb Salon, after which other awards ensued. − In 2015, I started collaborating with the Galko factory, whose production plant produces my Qwerty Elemental, a collection of handbags designed for everyday use. The Galko factory is equipped with state-ofthe-art leather machinery, and their tailoring and sewing services are of the highest quality − says the designer. Patrizia’s other two collections, Qwerty Limited and Qwerty Unique, are more complex. They’re entirely handmade in Italy and produced in small series. 

D. Nenadić

Nadahnuće za neobične art torbe stari su pisaći strojevi Patrizia’s unusual art handbags are inspired by vintage typewriters

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D. Nenadić

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V. Šolin

01 Dizajnerica koristi retro detalje u svakoj kolekciji torbi The designer uses retro details in all her handbag collections 02 Kreacije cijene ljubiteljice posebnog dizajna i autorskog potpisa Patrizia’s creations are loved by women who’re into distinct design and signature style

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D. Nenadić

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V. Šolin

01 Modne kolekcije temelje se na minimalizmu i promišljenim formama Patrizia’s collections are based on minimalism and meticulous forms 02 U izradu svake torbe uloženi su sati ručnoga rada Hours of handiwork are invested in each handbag

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ŽIVOT GRADA CITY LIFE

Zagreb

Umjetnost izlazi na ulice

spajajući staro i novo u neponovljivu kombinaciju zvanu Zagreb. Grafiti i murali koji su nekoć obilježavali predgrađa, često promatrani kao izraz

S. Kaštelan, TZGZ/ZTB

I letimičan obilazak dovoljan je za zaključak da stariji dio Zagreba ponosno pokazuje slojeve svoje bogate prošlosti. Romanika, gotika, renesansa, barok, klasicizam, secesija i drugi povijesni stilovi vidljivi su na pročeljima, spomenicima, palačama, kapelicama i crkvama, ostacima zidina... Međutim, posljednjih godina svoje mjesto pod suncem izborila je i suvremena umjetnost, kojoj su ulice prirodno stanište. Street art scena raste i buja naočigled sviju. Kao što je i sam grad živ organizam, a ne muzej starine, tako i umjetnost ide u korak sa životom,

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supkulture više negoli kulture, u zadnjih desetak godina prodrli su u sve dijelove Zagreba. Njihova originalnost i šarolikost dobrodošlo su osvježenje dobro poznatim uličnim vizurama. I sami umjetnici, kao što su danas etablirani Lunar, Chez, Lonac, Oko, Boris Bare, Sarme, Modul 8, Miron Milić i ostali, zaradili su poštovanje i izašli iz sjene. Prostor Studentskog centra i zid uz prugu u Branimirovoj ulici među prvim su spontanim galerijama na otvorenome i još uvijek služe kao nadahnuće. Muzej suvremene umjetnosti prikladno je prigrlio uličnu umjetnost velikim muralom na zidu platoa, a pozitivu koju šire umjetnici sa sprejem u ruci najbolje oslikava projekt Amazing Zagreb. Cilj je tematski oslikati i oživiti zapuštena gradska dvorišta, a usput djelovati kao platforma za sve umjetnike koji svojim djelima žele uljepšati život u gradu. Korak više ulične su umjetničke akcije i instalacije, a jedan od najranijih projekata te vrste bio je legendarni Pimp My Pump.

Tekst/Text_Turistička zajednica Zagreba/Zagreb Tourist Board

Art stepping out onto the streets

I. Klindić

Grupa umjetnika obojila je više od sto starih vodenih pumpi, takozvanih Franceka, pretvorivši ih u mala umjetnička djela, uvijek uz posvetu globalnoj pop kulturi ili lokalnim ikonama. Kreativni duh Zagreba uvijek nadjača sve nedaće, a ulična umjetnost posebno je prkosan i srčan žanr. U vrijeme kad je optimizam potrebniji nego ikad, Zagreb u novu godinu ulazi s nekoliko novih umjetničkih projekata u suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom grada Zagreba: Mali Zagreb − Sitno je bitno Iako se za Zagreb kaže da je grad po mjeri čovjeka, dovoljno je velik da se čovjek u uličnoj vrevi katkad osjeti sitno i izgubljeno. Pa onda prostor oko sebe uzima zdravo za gotovo i ne primjećuje sitnice koje ga čine posebnim, životnim. Umjetnički projekt Mali Zagreb trebao bi njegove stanovnike i posjetitelje prenuti iz svakodnevice i usmjeriti pozornost upravo na male stvari. A kroz njih ponov-

Ulični triptih − Grad kao živa galerija Ove godine zagrebačka scena ulične umjetnosti priprema živahnu izložbu dostupnu svima, i to u hodu. Kako i priliči formatu, prazno platno bit će sam grad, uvijek na tri lokacije. Akcija počinje u Radićevoj ulici, na uglu Trga bana Jelačića i Jurišićeve ulice te na zapadnoj strani tržnice Dolac, gdje će trojica umjetnika, Mislav Lešić, Zvonimir Haramija Hans i Boris Bare, oslikati tri velika ulična panela. Umjetnička akcija odvijat će se pred očima prolaznika, koji će uživo moći pratiti sve faze, od prvih poteza u uličnom ateljeu do premijere gotovog djela. Građani istodobno mogu biti i publika i kritika, ali i porazgovarati s umjetnicima. A oni će se izmjenjivati pa će projekt poslužiti i kao reprezentativan presjek aktualnog stanja zagrebačke ulične umjetnosti. Postav će se mijenjati kvartalno na dvije postojeće lokacije i jednoj novoj. Ovaj dinamični koncept pravo je osvježenje u vrijeme kad umjetnost nije u prvom planu, ali vedrina koju može donijeti svima mnogo znači. Taking a brief tour of Zagreb is enough for you to arrive at the conclusion that the older part of town takes great pride in the many layers of its rich past. Zagreb’s facades, monuments, palaces, chapels and churches, and the remains of old town

Z. Jelača/CNTB B. Bare

no pobuditi čuđenje, znatiželju, radost istraživanja. Naznake ovog neobičnog umjetničkog projekta javnost je vidjela krajem 2020. godine, kad je umjetnik Filip Filković Philatz na društvenim mrežama objavio seriju fotomanipulacija. Riječ je o minijaturnim instalacijama koje realistično dočaravaju dom, postavljenima daleko ispod razine očiju, na rubnicima nogostupa, a po uzoru na prave zgrade. Ove godine te će sitne ali složene instalacije zaživjeti u stvarnosti i nesumnjivo nas iznenaditi. Samo treba otvoriti oči i pronaći ih! Tim iza projekta nada se da Mali Zagreb pod našim nogama može postati velika priča. Majušne kopije velikih stvari uvijek bude osjećaj nježnosti u promatraču, a minijaturni domovi nose i dodatnu simboliku. Diraju ravno u srce jer bio malen ili velik, toplinu i sigurnost doma ništa ne može zamijeniti.

01 Guliver by Boris Bare i/and Dominik Vuković 02 Technicolor Dream by Lonac i/and Chez 186, Lice grada 03 Ulični triptih/Street Triptych − Herman Gollubé by Boris Bare

walls bear witness to many historical architectural styles, such as the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Classicist, Art Nouveau, etc. In recent years, however, contemporary art has also found its place in the sun. The streets are its natural habitat, so to speak. Zagreb’s street art scene has been enjoying a remarkable boom. The city itself is a living organism and not a museum of relics, and so art goes hand in hand with life, fusing the old with the new, ultimately creating a unique combination called − Zagreb. Graffiti and murals that once accessorised Zagreb’s suburbs and that were more often than not seen as an expression of subculture rather than culture have penetrated all parts of Zagreb in the last ten or so years. Their originality and diversity have revitalised Zagreb’s well-known street views refreshingly. Street artists − such as the already widely acclaimed Lunar, Chez, Lonac, Oko, Boris Bare, Sarme, Modul

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S. Kaštelan, TZGZ/ZTB

8, Miron Milić and others − have gained respect and come out of the shadows. The space surrounding the Student Centre in Savska Street and the wall along the railway in Branimirova Street were amongst the first spontaneous outdoor galleries and continue to serve as inspiration. The Museum of Contemporary Art has, appropriately enough, embraced street art with a large mural on the wall of its plateau, while the good vibes spread by street artists with spray paint cans in their hands are best testified to by the Amazing Zagreb project. Its goal is to thematically paint and revive neglected city courtyards, while serving as a platform for all artists looking to breathe new life into the city with their works. Street art interventions and art installations have gone one step further, with the legendary Pimp My Pump project being one the earliest projects of this kind. A group of graffiti artists painted more than one hundred old water pumps, Franceki as the residents of Zagreb call them, having turned them into small works of art, each of which is dedicated to global pop culture or a local icon. The creative spirit of Zagreb always seems to overcome all adversities, with street art being a particularly defiant and doughty genre. At a time when optimism seems to be in short supply, Zagreb’s entered the New Year with several new street art projects in collaboration with the Zagreb Tourist Board.

01 Mali Zagreb/Little Zagreb by Filip Filković Philatz

F. Filković Philatz

02 Kula Lotrščak/the Lotrščak Tower, Pimp My Pump by Boris Bare

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Little Zagreb − Little things matter Although Zagreb is said to be a city made to measure, it’s big enough for an individual to feel small and lost in the hustle and bustle of city life. We then start taking the space around us for granted and don’t notice the little things that make it special, lifelike. The Little Zagreb art project is looking to disconnect its residents and visitors from everyday life and get us to focus our attention on little things. And through them, to rekindle our sense of wonder, curiosity and the joy of exploration. The public was introduced to this unusual art project, its beginnings at least, at the end of 2020, when artist Filip Filković Philatz published a series of photo-manipulations on social media. Placed far below eye level on pavement kerbs and modelled on real buildings, these are miniature art installations that evoke a sense of home rather realistically. These small yet complex installations are about to come to life this year and will surely surprise us. All you need to do is open your eyes and find them! The team behind the project is hoping to create a big story from Little Zagreb underfoot. Tiny copies of big things always evoke feelings of tenderness in viewers, with miniature homes carrying special meaning. They touch your heart, because whether small or big, nothing can replace the warmth and cosiness of your home.

A Street Triptych − The city as a living gallery This year, Zagreb’s street art scene is preparing a lively exhibition accessible to everyone, art on the go, as it were. As befits the format, the city itself will serve as a blank canvas, always grouped into three locations. The first three locations of the first triptych are Radićeva Street, the corner of Ban Josip Jelačić Square and Jurišićeva Street, and the west end of the Dolac Open-Air Farmers’ Market, where three artists − namely, Mislav Lešić, Zvonimir Haramija Hans and Boris Bare − will paint three large street panels. The action will be taking place before passers-by, who’ll be able to follow live all the stages of painting − from the first strokes in the said street art studios to the unveiling of the finished works. Passers-by will be both audience members and critics, and will also be able to talk to the artists. Many street artists will partake in the Street Triptych project, so it’ll provide insight into the current state of affairs of Zagreb’s street art scene. Two of the said locations of the triptych will be repainted quarterly, with one new location introduced at every change. This dynamic concept is a refreshing change at a time when art’s not at the forefront of our minds, but can certainly introduce a welcome dose of vivacity.

AMONG YOUR OWN

WHEN IN CROATIA, DRINK WHAT THE CROATS DO. Karlovačko beer. Locally made, locally enjoyed.

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01 Plakat izložbe Moda i strip u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt The poster of the Fashion and Comics exhibition held at the Museum of Arts and Crafts

Zagreb

02 Naslovnica grafičkoga romana Jeune Fille en Dior poznate crtačice Annie Goetzinger The cover of the graphic novel Girl in Dior by the famous cartoonist Annie Goetzinger

Moda i strip Fashion and Comics

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To mark the 100th anniversary of the French Institute in Croatia, the Museum of Arts and Crafts is hosting the unique Fashion and Comics exhibition until 28th March. The exhibition is presenting the intriguing relationship between the world of fashion and comics, and the way they influence one another. It’s the result of a wider collaboration between Croatia and France in the field of comics, which has a strong and living tradition in both countries. The Fashion and Comics exhibition has been set up in collaboration with and with financial support from the French Institute in Croatia, the Ministry of Culture and Media of the Republic of Croatia, and the City of Zagreb, and is partnered by the Cité Internationale de la Bande Dessinée et de l’image from Angoulême, France. More than one hundred amazing and genuine objects and items from the Cité’s collection of comics, original comic panels and drawings, clothing and fashion accessories, perfumes and printed archive items arrived in Zagreb, such as the first fashion design drawings by world-famous designers Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior and Thierry Mugler, Winsor McCay’s comics, paper dolls, etc.

The graphic novel Girl in Dior (Jeune fille en Dior, Dargaud 2013) by the famous cartoonist Annie Goetzinger is particularly interesting. It follows the adventure of building a prestigious fashion house during the last decade of Dior’s life. Clothing items with motifs from comics printed on them are also fascinating. These include T-shirts with Marvel Comics superheroes on them and much more.

Tekst/Text_Muzej za umjetnost i obrt/Museum of Arts and Crafts

U povodu stote obljetnice Francuskog instituta u Hrvatskoj, u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt do 28. ožujka traje jedinstvena izložba Moda i strip, koja prikazuje intrigantan odnos svijeta mode i stripa te njihove međusobne utjecaje. Izložba je plod šire hrvatsko-francuske suradnje na području stripa u kojemu Hrvatska i Francuska dijele snažnu i živu tradiciju. Ostvarena je u suradnji i uz financijsku potporu Francuskog instituta u Hrvatskoj, Ministarstva kulture i medija Republike Hrvatske i Grada Zagreba, u partnerstvu s centrom Cité Internationale de la Bande Dessinée et de l’Image u Angoulêmeu. U Zagreb je stiglo više od stotinu atraktivnih predmeta iz muzejske kolekcije stripova, izvornih strip tabli i crteža, odjeće i modnih dodataka, parfema, tiskanih arhiva i drugih predmeta. Primjerice, mogu se vidjeti neki od prvih dizajnerskih crteža svjetski poznatih dizajnera Yvesa Saint Laurenta, Christiana Diora, Thierryja Muglera, zatim stripovi Winsora McCaya, lutke od papira i brojni drugi jedinstveni predmeti. Posebno je atraktivan grafički roman Jeune Fille en Dior (Dargaud, 2013.) poznate crtačice Annie Goetzinger, koji prati pustolovinu razvoja prestižne modne kuće u posljednjem desetljeću Diorova života. Zanimljivi su i odjevni predmeti s apliciranim motivima stripa, kao što je primjerice majica kratkih rukava s uzorkom super junaka Marvel Comicsa, i još mnogo toga.

CELINE, BALENCIAGA, LOEWE, GUCCI, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, BOTTEGA VENETA, AZZEDINE ALAÏA, CHLOÉ, STELLA MCCARTNEY, GIVENCHY, CECILIE BAHNSEN, KHAITE, VITA KIN, ALANUI, MONCLER, JOHANNA ORTIZ, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, BORSALINO, IVI JEWELRY, ASHERALI KNOPFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, LAUREN RUBINSKI, GIANVITO ROSSI, ALEVI, LINDA FARROW LUXE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

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Ogulin

Grad u kojem caruje bajka A town where fairy tales reign 01

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animaciju i ulični teatar, pripovijedanje, edukativno-prezentacijske i kreativne radionice, kvizove i još mnogo toga. The 16th Ogulin Fairy Tale Festival will be held in Ogulin between 11th and 13th June, and between 10th and 12th September. This unique project is inspired by the work of the acclaimed Croatian writer Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, who was born in Ogulin. Being home to a peculiar combination of countless myths and legends, and a stunningly beautiful landscape, Ogulin was an inexhaustible source of inspiration for her while writing Croatia’s most famous collection of fairy tales, Croatian Tales of Long Ago, which she herself pointed out long ago: − The curious and dramatic shapes of Klek Mountain and the romantic quality of the Dobra River provided my imagination with so much nourishment that I used to turn over in my mind the strangest images and fantastic possibilities far into the night: what’s happening around Klek in the middle of the night? Ivana and the characters from her fairy tales have for years hosted in Ogulin all who’re looking to experience a fairy tale and savour the synergy between Ogulin’s natural attractions and numerous cultureand education-related events. The 16th Ogulin Fairy Tale Festival’s both spring and autumn dates are continuing to celebrate Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić’s life and work, blending the aspect of inspiration, creation and birthing a work of art which then be-

01 Šareno i uvijek veselo otvorenje Ogulinskog festivala bajke The colourful and always cheerful opening of the Ogulin Fairy Tale Festival 02 Raznovrstan program donosi sadržaj za svakoga The festival programme offers something for everyone

comes a source of inspiration for new generations. The festival’s offering three richly varied all-day programmes. By celebrating fairy tales, and by inspiring festival performers and visitors to interact, the festival’s looking to provide families and children in particular an exceptional experience of togetherness and encouragement to participate in the festival creatively. There’ll be something for everyone: some of the best children’s theatre shows that Croatian theatre production has to offer, animation and street theatre, storytelling, education-related presentations and creative workshops, quizzes and much more.

Tekst/Text _ Turistička zajednica grada Ogulina/Ogulin Tourist Board Fotografije/Photos _ Zdravko Špehar IN photo video & design

U Ogulinu će se od 11. do 13. lipnja te od 10. do 12. rujna održati 16. Ogulinski festival bajke (OGFB). Ovaj jedinstveni projekt potaknut je stvaralaštvom slavne hrvatske spisateljice Ivane Brlić-Mažuranić, kojoj je Ogulin rodni grad. Kao osebujni spoj brojnih mitova i legendi s prirodnim ljepotama, bio joj je neiscrpno vrelo inspiracije u trenucima stvaranja najpoznatije zbirke bajki u Hrvatskoj, Priče iz davnine, što je i sama davno istaknula: − Čudnovati i napadni oblici Kleka i romantičnost Dobre pružali su mojoj mašti toliko hrane da sam daleko u noć prevraćala u mislima najčudnovatije slike i fantastične mogućnosti: što li se sve odigrava u dubokoj noći oko Kleka. Ivana i likovi iz njezinih bajki već su godinama u Ogulinu domaćini svima koji žele doživjeti bajku i uživati u sinergiji prirodnih ljepota i mnogobrojnih kulturno-edukativnih sadržaja. Šesnaesti OGFB u svoja će dva termina i dalje njegovati i veličati lik i stvaralaštvo Ivane Brlić-Mažuranić, objedinjujući aspekt inspiracije, stvaranja i nastanka umjetničkog djela koje nadalje postaje nadahnuće novim generacijama. Festival nudi bogat i raznolik cjelodnevni program kroz tri dana. Slavljenjem bajke i interakcijom izvođača i posjetitelja OGFB želi, posebno obiteljima i djeci, pružiti izniman doživljaj zajedništva i poticaja za kreativno sudjelovanje u festivalu. Raznovrstan program donosi sadržaj za svakoga: neke od najboljih dječjih predstava hrvatske produkcije,

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Dubrovnik

Glazbeno proljeće

V. Levi

Spring music festival

Početkom proljeća u Dubrovniku se budi i glazbeni život, a ljubitelji klasične glazbe s veseljem dočekuju ciklus Dubrovačkoga glazbenog proljeća, koji organizira Dubrovački simfonijski orkestar. Dok će ožujak uglavnom biti u znaku virtualnih koncerata i emitiranja na televizijskim programima, dolaskom nešto toplijih dana glazbenici će se konačno susresti sa svojom publikom uživo u jedinstvenome Kneževu dvoru. Uz koncerte DSO-a, bit će tu i mnogo koncerata komornih sastava orkestra, a dubrovački simfoničari imat će priliku surađivati s uglednim dirigentima kao što je šef dirigent DSO-a

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01 DSO, Marc Tardue & Petrit Çeku (2019) 02 DSO, TaeJung Lee & Martina Filjak (2018) 03 DSO, koncert na otvorenom (2020.) DSO, an open-air concert (2020)

attention to Croatian musicians, so this year’s series will feature soloists such as cellists Vid Veljak and Mihaela Čuljak. On World Music Day, the symphonists will traditionally see spring off and welcome summer with a big concert on Dubrovnik’s Stradun Street. The residents of Dubrovnik and their guests are looking forward to the performance of Russian virtuoso Dmitry Sinkovsky in June. More specifically, this brilliant violinist and countertenor is one of the best performers of baroque music, who’s been regularly amazing audiences around the world with his charisma and extraordinary performances.

Tekst/Text_Dubrovački simfonijski orkestar/Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra

V. Levi

With the awakening of spring, Dubrovnik’s music scene awakens too, and so lovers of classical music can happily welcome the Dubrovnik Spring Music Festival series organised by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra. While during March concerts will be held mostly virtually and broadcast on television, with the arrival of somewhat warmer days, the symphonists will finally get to meet their audience live in Dubrovnik’s incredible Rector’s Palace. Besides the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra − who’ll collaborate with renowned conductors, such as the orchestra’s Chief Conductor Marc Tardue, the famous maestro Uroš Lajovic, and young Croatian conductors Ivan Hut and Pavle Zajcev − concerts will also be played by chamber orchestras. This year’s festival pays special

G. Jelavić

Marc Tardue, glasoviti maestro Uroš Lajovic i mladi hrvatski dirigenti Ivan Hut i Pavle Zajcev. Posebna je pozornost ove godine posvećena hrvatskim umjetnicima, pa će tako kao solisti u ovom ciklusu nastupiti glazbenici poput violončelista Vida Veljaka i Mihaele Čuljak. Simfoničari će tradicionalno ispratiti proljeće i dočekati ljeto uz Svjetski dan glazbe i veliki koncert na Stradunu. Brojni Dubrovčani i posjetitelji grada u lipnju se posebno vesele nastupu ruskog virtuoza Dmitryja Sinkovskog. Naime, ovaj vrsni violinist i kontratenor jedan je od ponajboljih izvođača barokne glazbe, a svojom karizmom i atipičnim nastupima redovno iznenađuje publiku diljem svijeta.

FLY TO

Dubrovnik ... All the silver, gold and human lives Can not match your sheer beauty! “Hymn to liberty” Ivan Gundulić

T +385 20 773 100 F +385 20 773 322 E headoffice@airport-dubrovnik.hr www.airport-dubrovnik.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

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Hvar

Proslava blagdana sv. Prošpera

I. Vučetić

Celebrating the Feast Day of St. Prosper

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01 Procesija na Trgu sv. Stjepana s relikvijama sv. Prošpera i sv. Stjepana I. (2019.) The procession on St. Stephen’s Square with the relics of St. Prosper and St. Stephen I (2019) 02 Bratovštine sv. Nikole i sv. Križa u procesiji (2020.) The brotherhoods of St. Nicholas and of the Holy Cross partaking in the procession (2020) 03 Pogled na luku Mandrač i zgradu Arsenala s kazalištem A view of the Port of Mandrač and the Arsenal building housing a theatre 04 Fjera sv. Prošpera na Trgu sv. Stjepana (Pjaca) The Fair of St. Prosper on St. Stephen’s Square (Piazza)

Tekst/Text_Grad Hvar/Town of Hvar

Grad Hvar i Hvarska biskupija ove godine slave veliki jubilej, 350. godišnjicu dolaska relikvija mučenika sv. Prošpera u Hvar. Zemne ostatke mučenika iz rimskih katakombi donio je 1671. hvarski biskup Trogiranin Ivan Andreis, a 10. svibnja Hvarani slave kao zavjetni blagdan od 1674. godine. Proslava Godine sv. Prošpera započela je 10. svibnja 2020., a završetak jubileja posebno će se intenzivno proslaviti u katedrali i gradu kroz devetnicu i na blagdan. Tih dana Hvarani i njihovi gosti raznim će vjerskim, umjetničkim i kulturnim programima obilježiti 350. obljetnicu dolaska omiljenoga hvarskog zaštitnika, kojem se Hvarani najčešće utječu u pogibeljnim i bezizlaznim situacijama, dok povijest bilježi veći broj čuda i uslišanih molitava po zagovoru ovoga sveca. Cjelodnevna tradicionalna Fjera sv. Prošpera u organizaciji udruge Forske užonce i uz suradnju Grada Hvara i Turističke zajednice Hvar, na Trgu sv. Stjepana predstavit će gastronomsku i enološku ponudu otočkih OPG-ova, udruga i obrtnika, što je prilika da se

J. Kuzmičić

The town of Hvar and the Roman Catholic Diocese of Hvar are celebrating a great jubilee this year − the 350th anniversary of the arrival of the relics of martyr St. Prosper to Hvar. The mortal remains of martyr St. Prosper were brought to Hvar in 1671 from the Catacombs of Rome by the Trogir-born Bishop of Hvar, Ivan Andreis. 10th May has been celebrated by the people of Hvar as the Feast Day of St. Prosper since 1674. Celebration of the Year of St. Prosper began on 10th May 2020, with celebration of the jubilee intensifying through a novena and ending on the feast day itself in the cathedral and the town. During the novena, the residents of Hvar and their guests will be marking the 350th jubilee of the arrival of the relics of their favourite patron saint − whose intercession they most often call upon in peril and in a time of despair, with recorded history attributing a great number of miracles and answered prayers to the intercession of St. Prosper − with many different religious, arts and cultural events. The all-day traditional Fair of St. Prosper − organised by the Forske Užonce collective in collaboration with the Town of Hvar and the Hvar Tourist Board − will be presenting at St. Stephen’s Square in Hvar the foods and wines produced by Hvar’s family farms, collectives and craft sole traders. So make sure you seize the opportunity to experience the Mediterranean smells and tastes of the sunniest island in Europe.

J. Kuzmičić

I. Vučetić

osjete mediteranski mirisi i okusi najsunčanijeg otoka Europe.

Visa Gold Croatia Airlines kartica

Kartica za nezaboravna iskustva

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PLANIRAJTE S NAMA...PLAN WITH US...

OŽUJAK MARCH

Izložba Nikola Koydl, In memoriam Nikola Koydl, In Memoriam exhibition 23. 2. − 11. 4., Moderna galerija National Museum of Modern Art, Zagreb Moderna galerija, nacionalni muzej moderne umjetnosti predstavlja vam izložbu posvećenu Nikoli Koydlu, suvremenom hrvatskom slikaru i grafičaru. Autorica izložbe Biserka Rauter Plančić u likovnom je postavu objedinila osamdesetak djela − crteža, mezzotinta, ulja i objekata iz gotovo pet desetljeća dugog i bogatog umjetnikovog stvaralačkog opusa. The National Museum of Modern Art is presenting an exhibition dedicated to Nikola Koydl, a contemporary Croatian painter and graphic artist. The exhibition’s authored by Biserka Rauter Plančić, who’s selected some eighty works (drawings, mezzotints, oils and objects) from Nikola Koydl’s rich oeuvre that spanned nearly five decades.

ZAGREB I OKOLICA ZAGREB AND SURROUNDINGS

Izložba Hrvatska svijetu What Croatia Gave the World exhibition 12. 2. − 15. 5., Meštrovićev paviljon / Meštrović Pavilion, Zagreb Riječ je o multidisciplinarnoj izložbi nacionalnog značaja čiji je cilj revitalizirati pojedince s naših prostora koji su nesebičnim radom i trudom promijenili svijet na bolje kroz razne discipline stvaranja i izražavanja. U postavu se mogu razgledati razne umjetnine, autorski nacrti, patenti, arhivski dokumenti i video zapisi te uređaji i naprave nastale prema patentima i idejama zaslužnih pojedinaca. Jedinstvena nacionalna, znanstvena i kulturna ostavština koju su nam naši izumitelji ostavili kao baštinu predstavljena je u kustoskoj koncepciji Anite Ruso. This is a multidisciplinary exhibition of national importance aiming to rekindle interest in individuals from Croatia’s region who’ve worked selflessly and changed the world for the better through different disciplines of creation and expression. The exhibition showcases different works of art, drafts and drawings, patents, archival documents and videos, and devices and machines built based on patents and ideas of worthy individuals. Presenting Croatia’s unique national, scientific and cultural heritage left by its inventors as their legacy, the exhibition’s curated by Anita Ruso. www.hrvatskasvijetu.hr

G. Vranić

www.moderna-galerija.hr

B. Ščitar

Nikola Koydl

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Izložba Ratko Petrić: Baciti istinu u lice! The Truth in Your Face! exhibition 30. 3. − 23. 5., MSU / Museum of Contemporary Art Muzej suvremene umjetnosti retrospektivnom izložbom Baciti istinu u lice! predstavlja prvi integralni kritički presjek cjelokupnog opusa Ratka Petrića, od kojih se mnogi radovi izlažu po prvi put. The Museum of Contemporary Art is presenting the first integral critical overview of Ratko Petrić’s entire oeuvre by setting up a retrospective exhibition of his works, many of which are exhibited for the first time. www.msu.hr

SPLIT I OKOLICA SPLIT AND SURROUNDINGS Croatia Boat Show

TRAVANJ APRIL

Ratko Petrić

SPLIT I OKOLICA SPLIT AND SURROUNDINGS Procesija Za Križen Following the Cross procession 1. − 2. 4., Hvar

Punih pet stoljeća Hvarani na poseban način slave Uskrs − procesijom Za Križen. U noći s Velikog četvrtka na Veliki petak procesija povezuje Jelsu, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj i Vrbosku. U cjelonoćnom hodu pjevaju se stari pučki napjevi, dok u crkvama dva glavna pjevača pjevaju Gospin plač. Procesija je pod zaštitom UNESCO-a. The people of the Island of Hvar have celebrated Easter in a very special way for five centuries − by taking part in the Following the Cross procession. On the eve of Good Friday, the procession connects the communities of Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj and Vrboska. During the night-long procession, old folk songs are sung, while in the churches the two lead singers sing Our Lady’s Lament. The procession is on UNESCO’s List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. min-kulture.gov.hr

Na ovom međunarodnom nautičkom sajmu u Splitu i ove će se godine predstaviti tvrtke iz svih grana nautičke industrije: renomirani domaći i inozemni graditelji plovila za razonodu svih vrsta, od velikih motornih jahti, preko jedrilica i katamarana, do gumenjaka i pomoćnih brodova, zatim proizvođači nautičke opreme, brodskih i izvanbrodskih motora, elektronike i ribolovne opreme te čarter tvrtke. I ove godine na Zapadnoj obali svoju će ponudu predstaviti i brojne auto kuće. This year’s edition of the international boat show in Split is again presenting companies from all branches of the boat building and boating industry: renowned Croatian and foreign boat builders (from large motor yachts, through sailboats and catamarans, to dinghies and support, supply and auxiliary vessels), nautical equipment manufacturers, inboard and outboard motor manufacturers, sailing and boating electronics manufacturers, fishing equipment manufacturers and charter companies. This year’s edition of the boat show is also lining up a number of car dealers on Split’s West Bank. croatiaboatshow.com

Croatia Boat Show

D. Bavoljak

18. − 22. 5., Split

LIPANJ JUNE

SVIBANJ MAY

ZAGREB I OKOLICA ZAGREB AND SURROUNDINGS

PULA I OKOLICA PULA AND SURROUNDINGS

7. − 12. 6., Zagreb

Vinistra 7. − 9. 5., Poreč

Tijekom tri dana ove međunarodne izložbe ljubitelji vina mogu kušati i istražiti vinski svijet Istre. Osim vina na Vinistri se ocje njuju maslinova ulja i rakije. Izložba se već tradicionalno održava u Poreču i svake godine izaziva velik interes. Vinistra is the most anticipated wine event in Croatia. During the three days of this international exhibition of wine and wine making supplies and equipment, wine connoisseurs get to taste and explore the world of Istria’s wines. The fair’s traditionally held in Poreč and has been generating great interest year after year. www.vinistra.com

Animafest Zagreb

Svjetski je festival animiranoga filma nastao na tradiciji poznate Zagrebačke škole crtanog filma. Od osnutka 1972. godine kroz svoje natjecateljske programe i popratne sadržaje pridonosi likovnom životu svoga grada te promociji umjetnosti animacije. The World Festival of Animated Film was birthed by the famous Zagreb School of Animated Film. Through its competition and accompanying programmes, it’s been contributing to the cultural life of Zagreb and promoting the art of animation since its inception in 1972. www.animafest.hr

RIJEKA I OKOLICA RIJEKA AND SURROUNDINGS 22. regata Fiumanka 22nd Fiumanka Regatta 5. − 13. 6., Rijeka Ovo je nezaobilazan događaj za ljubitelje jedrenja. Jednom

godišnje okupljaju se jedriličari iz cijeloga svijeta. I ove godine Fiumanka jedri u tri kategorije i na tri rute. A must for all sailing enthusiasts! Once a year, the regatta brings together sailors from all over the world. This year too, the Fiumanka Regatta is sailed in three categories navigating three routes. fiumanka.com

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26 member airlines. All committed to keeping you safe. With complimentary hygiene amenities. Safety signs and announcements. Enhanced aircraft cleaning and disinfection. Special procedures for passengers developing symptoms. Personal Protective Equipment for crew. And face mask requirements for passengers. We’re working together, so you can fly with confidence.

staralliance.com/commitments

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A. Grubelić

POZNATI U NAŠEM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT

U VISINAMA S NAŠIM SJAJNIM RUKOMETAŠICAMA REACHING HEIGHTS WITH OUR GREAT HANDBALL PLAYERS

ak i onima koji inače nisu tako duboko u rukometu, užitak je bio pratiti igru i uspjehe hrvatske ženske rukometne reprezentacije na Europskom prvenstvu održanom u Danskoj potkraj prošle godine. Na tom je natjecanju, osim sjajne igre naših reprezentativki, pozornost plijenilo i njihovo veselje, mladenačka energija, entuzijazam i kreativnost, ali ponajprije zajedništvo kakvo se rijetko viđa. I čini se da ih je upravo zajedništvo, koje je iz utakmice u utakmicu bilo sve snažnije, nezaustavljivo vodilo do brončane medalje. A krenule su na put kao reprezentacija od koje nitko nije puno očekivao. Već i prolazak u drugi krug natjecanja smatrao bi se uspjehom. No naše reprezentativke ne samo da su hrabro preskakale prepreku za preprekom nego su se i vratile doma s

broncom oko vrata. Pritom završna borba za odličje nije bila nimalo laka. Izabranice Nenada Šoštarića trebale su, naime, nadigrati domaćina prvenstva, Dankinje. I učinile su to uvjerljivim rezultatom 25:19. Najveći je to uspjeh u povijesti hrvatskoga ženskog rukometa pa je stoga veliko veselje vladalo i u našem zrakoplovu 21. prosinca 2020. na redovitom letu OU 481 Kopenhagen − Zagreb, kojim su se naše sjajne rukometašice vratile u domovinu. Igračice i stručno vodstvo reprezentacije dobili su tijekom leta prigodne darove Croatia Airlinesa, a nakon slijetanja Airbusa 319 u zagrebačku zračnu luku u 13 sati i 15 minuta uslijedilo je i zajedničko fotografiranje s posadom. Kako to dolikuje, slavljenički su dočekane u Zagrebu, a nakon zagrebačkoga, priređeni su im i dočeci u njihovim rodnim gradovima (na-

Nezaboravno veselo druženje s hrvatskim rukometašicama, osvajačicama brončane medalje, u našem zrakoplovu Unforgettable moments of joy with Croatia’s women handball players, European championship bronze medallists, in our aircraft

Piše/By _ Ksenija Žlof

ravno sve pod strogim mjerama u skladu s epidemiološkom situacijom). Bili su to trenuci koje zacijelo naše rukometašice neće nikada zaboraviti, ali ni naša posada na tom letu: kapetan Andre Šarinić i kopilot Amer Koljhodžić te kabinsko osoblje Dalibor Keča i Donatela Aralica i voditeljica kabine zrakoplova Anita Slavik, koja nam je i dočarala dio atmosfere na letu: − Iako bi nama kao posadi svaki let trebao biti jednak gledajući s profesionalne strane, neki su letovi ipak posebni. Ovo je bio svakako još jedan od onih nezaboravnih. Cijela posada bila je oduševljena time što idemo po brončane rukometašice. Kako sam stajala na vratima aviona pozdravljajući putnike, već sam izdaleka čula pjesmu i veselje jer su naše rukometašice cijelo vrijeme plesale i pjevale. Ulaskom u avion te sjajne mlade djevoj-

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ke unijele su pregršt pozitivne energije i veselja koje je prštalo iz njih tijekom cijeloga leta. Iako vidno umorne, bile su pristupačne i razgovorljive te su pristajale na bezbroj fotografiranja i autograma, ali i jedva dočekale slijetanje u Zagreb. Čestitke našim reprezentativkama i sretno dalje! Ne sumnjamo da je pred njima još mnoštvo trenutaka za pamćenje. 

ven those who’re not so into handball enjoyed every minute of the game played by the Croatia Women’s National Handball Team at the 2020 European Women’s Handball Championship held in Denmark and the success they achieved. Viewers’ attention was attracted and kept by not only their great game, but also by their joy, youthful energy, enthusiasm and creativity, but above all a rare display of unity. And it seems that it was their unity, which was only growing stronger from game to game, that made them unstoppable in earning the bronze medal. They set off for the championship as a team that no one expected much from. Making it through to the second round of

the competition would have been considered a success. Yet, the Croatia Women’s National Handball Team not only braved it out overcoming obstacle after obstacle, but also returned home with the bronze medal. The final round of the championship was not easy at all. More specifically, coach Nenad Šoštarić’s team had to outplay the host of the championship − the Denmark Women’s National Handball Team. With the final score being 25:19, they outperformed the Danes convincingly. This was the biggest success in the history of Croatian women’s handball, so the atmosphere was celebratory in our aircraft on 21st December 2020 on our regular OU 481 Copenhagen-Zagreb flight, which flew our prize-winning handball players back home. The national team players and their coaching staff received gifts from Croatia Airlines, and after the Airbus 319 aircraft landed at Zagreb Airport at 1:15 pm, there followed a joint photo shoot. As befitted the occasion, they were welcomed warmly not only in Zagreb, but also in their hometowns (in accordance with the strict guidelines on public health and safety measures).

These were moments that will surely not be forgotten by either our handball players or our crew on that flight: captain Andre Šarinić and co-pilot Amer Koljhodžić, cabin crew members Dalibor Keča and Donatela Aralica, and purser Anita Slavik, who told us what the atmosphere was like: − Although every flight should, from a professional point of view, be the same for us, the cabin crew, some flights are indeed special. This was definitely an unforgettable flight. The whole crew was thrilled about flying the bronze medallists. I stood at the door welcoming passengers and I could hear the sounds of joyous laughter and singing from afar because our handball players were dancing and singing all along. These brilliant young girls were bursting with joy and positive energy throughout the flight. Although visibly tired, they were approachable and talkative, and had countless photos taken and signed many autographs, but couldn’t wait to land in Zagreb. Congratulations to our women’s national handball team and good luck for the future! We have no doubt that many memorable moments are in store for them. 

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Tvoja internetska trgovina

To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoË nu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvat skoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊi ma i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniË no. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovni ka), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Hrvatska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the ea st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the offi cial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recogniti on on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sje verni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine,

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treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od naj ljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Nor thern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature pro tection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe. Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spo menicima iz svih razdoblja zbog burnih po vijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakral na baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinen talna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapo vijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spome niËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u sred njovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, tako er je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of in fluences of different cultures. Its coast is cha

racterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monu ments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cul tural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNE SCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphra sius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Cro atia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacional nog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its

national carrier, as well as other airliners. Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever. If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland. Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna je na ziv novËane jedinice Republi ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp), (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje

kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, Ame rican Expres s, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are bank notes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth. Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Master card), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

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AKTUALNO CURRENT AFFAIRS

S nama putujete sigurno You travel safely with us Piše/By _ Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić

Dobili smo nacionalnu oznaku sigurnosti − Safe stay in Croatia

inistarstvo turizma i sporta i Hrvatska turistička zajednica sredinom veljače pokrenuli su kampanju za nacionalnu oznaku Safe stay in Croatia, koja domaćim i stranim turistima jamči da se u Hrvatskoj primjenjuju zdravstveni i sigurnosni protokoli, što je za vrijeme globalne pandemije koronavirusa iznimno važno. Nacionalnu oznaku sigurnosnih protokola u turizmu i ugostiteljstvu Safe stay in Croatia dobila je i naša kompanija, a oznaka našim putnicima jamči da smo usvojili nacionalne i svjetske standarde zdravstvene i higijenske zaštite te siguran let do željenog odredišta. Oznaku dodjeljuje Ministarstvo turizma i sporta, koje i nadzire njezinu primjenu. Protokoli su usklađeni s preporukama Hrvatskog zavoda za javno zdravstvo (HZJZ) i Svjetskog vijeća za putovanja i turizam. Oznaka uključuje i naljepnicu s QR kodom koja vodi na posebnu internetsku stranicu www.safestayincroatia.hr, na kojoj se mogu pretraživati svi dionici turističkog sektora koji nose oznaku Safe stay in Croatia, pronaći relevantne informacije o zdravstvenim i sigurnosnim protokolima u sedam osnovnih kategorija te informacije kako postupiti u slučaju sumnje na zarazu virusom COVID-19. Uvođenje ove oznake iznimno je važno u brendiranju Hrvatske kao sigurne destinacije te se nastavlja na prošlogodišnju oznaku Safe Travels Svjetskog vijeća za putovanja i turizam (WTTC) za lakše prepoznavanje destinacija i kompanija koje poštuju globalne standardizirane protokole za zdravlje i higijenu.

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U tu se inicijativu odmah uključilo i naše Ministarstvo turizma i sporta te je usuglašavanje sigurnosnih protokola bio jedan od prvih zadataka Savjeta za oporavak i razvoj turizma, realizaciju turističke 2021. godine i unapređenje turističke ponude. − Tijekom priprema za ovu turističku godinu, u kojoj nas nažalost i dalje prati pandemija, upravo smo sigurnost i zdravlje naših sugrađana i gostiju stavili na prvo mjesto. Riječ je o projektu u kojem su Ministarstvu turizma i sporta podršku pružila vodeća turistička i strukovna udruženja okupljena u Savjetu za oporavak i razvoj turizma, realizaciju turističke godine 2021. te unapređenje turističke ponude. Propisanim proto-

kolima obuhvatili smo više od 200.000 ugostitelja i pružatelja usluga u turizmu − istaknula je ministrica turizma i sporta Nikolina Brnjac te dodala kako je važno osigurati da nacionalna oznaka bude dostupna svim dionicima u turizmu i lancu putovanja, što je i postignuto. Uvjereni smo da će se uz pridržavanje sigurnosnih mjera održati povoljna epidemiološka situacija u našoj zemlji te da ćemo i ove godine, povezujući domaće i strane destinacije, sigurno prevesti mnoge turiste te im omogućiti ugodan boravak u željenoj destinaciji. Također, vjerujemo da smo dobivanjem oznake Safe stay in Croatia pridonijeli pozicioniranju Hrvatske kao sigurne europske destinacije. 

Dobivanjem oznake Safe stay in Croatia pridonijeli smo pozicioniranju Hrvatske kao sigurne europske destinacije. By having been awarded the Safe Stay in Croatia label, we’re contributing to the positioning of Croatia as a safe European destination.

We’ve been awarded Croatia’s national label of safety − Safe Stay in Croatia

n mid-February, Croatia’s Ministry of Tourism and Sport, and the Croatian National Tourist Board launched a campaign for Croatia’s national label of safety − Safe Stay in Croatia. The label is a guarantee that health and safety protocols are implemented in Croatia, which is of paramount importance during the global coronavirus pandemic. Our company was also awarded the Safe Stay in Croatia national label of safety. The label’s a guarantee that we have adopted national and international health and safety standards, and that our flights to your desired destination are safe. The Safe Stay in Croatia national label of safety is awarded by the Ministry of Tourism and Sport, which also supervises its implementation. The protocols are in line with the guidelines prescribed by the Croatian Institute of Public Health and the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC). The label also includes a sticker with a QR code that links you to www.safestayincroatia.hr. This website lists all the stakeholders in the tourism sector that have been awarded the Safe Stay in Croatia label, relevant information on health and safety protocols in seven basic holidaying categories and information

on what to do in case of a suspected COVID-19 infection. At Croatia Airlines, the sticker with the QR code is displayed in a visible place in all our aircraft and at our points of sale, and is accessible on our website and all our internal communication channels. The introduction of the Safe Stay in Croatia national label of safety is extremely important in branding Croatia as a safe destination and builds on WTTC’s Safe Travels label from last year, which was created for travellers to recognise destinations and businesses around the world which have adopted the Safe Travels health and hygiene global standardised protocols.

Croatia’s Ministry of Tourism and Sport joined this initiative immediately, and the harmonisation of safety protocols was one of the very first tasks of the Tourism Repair and Development Council, with a view to facilitating and implementing the 2021 tourist season and to bettering the services and products on offer in the tourism sector. − During preparations for this year’s tourist season, which is still, unfortunately, marked by the pandemic, we’ve made the health and safety of our fellow citizens and guests a priority. This is a project in which the Ministry of Tourism and Sport was given support by leading tourism and professional associations gathered in the Tourism Re-

Elegantni kontrast bež i crne u colour-block formuli An elegant contrast between Latest info: beige and black in colour www.croatiaairlines.com block formula

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Travel to... magnificent Croatian cities of Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Pula, Split, Zadar, Bol, Osijek and Rijeka

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croatiaairlines.com

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abis-croatia.com pair and Development Council, with a view to facilitating and implementing the 2021 tourist season and to bettering the services and products on offer in the tourism sector. The prescribed protocols have included more than 200 000 restaurants and bars, and service providers in the tourism sector − said Croatia’s Minister of Tourism and Sport, Ms Nikolina Brnjac, adding that it is important to ensure that the national label of safety is accessible to all stakeholders in the tourism sector and the chain of travel, which has been achieved. We’re convinced that, if the safety guidelines are followed, the public health and safety situation will remain favourable in Croatia and that, by connecting national and foreign destinations, we’ll safely fly many tourists this year, making sure that their stay in the desired destination is as pleasant as possible. We also believe that, by having been awarded the Safe Stay in Croatia national label of safety, we’re helping the positioning of Croatia as a safe European destination. 

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Visa Gold Croatia Airlines kartica - 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja - 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike - 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana - Putno osiguranje - Milje ne zastarijevaju - Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica - 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja. - Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaćajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. - 2 kartice − 1 račun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na istom računu Miles & More.

Visa Gold Croatia Airlines card - 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users - Travel insurance - Miles do not expire - Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croatia Airlines and PBZ Card Travel

Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card - 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad - 2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account

VISA Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potrošnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potrošenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna Miles & More milja.

VISA Croatia Airlines credit card Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines standalone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 HRK spent via standalone credit card whereas for every 7 HRK spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Više informacija možete pronaći na:

Please find detailed info at:

www.milesandmore.com

PRIKUPLJANJE MILJA NA LETOVIMA CROATIA AIRLINESA COLLECTING MILES ON CROATIA AIRLINES FLIGHTS

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SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY? FLY?

8kg RUČNA RUČNA PRTLJAGA PRTLJAGA

HAND HAND BAGGAGE BAGGAGE

Dopuštena Dopuštena ručna ručna prtljaga prtljaga za za putnike putnike ekonomskog ekonomskog razreda razreda je je 11 komad, komad, aa za za putnike putnike poslovnog poslovnog razreda razreda 22 komada komada (težine (težine do do 8 8 kg kg ii zbroja zbroja dimenzija dimenzija do do 115 115 cm) cm) Veće Veće komade komade ručne ručne prtljage prtljage spremite spremite uu pretince, pretince, a a manje manje torbe torbe označene označene privjeskom privjeskom Prtljaga Prtljaga za za avion avion stavite stavite ispod ispod sjedala sjedala ispred ispred vas, vas, osim osim uu redovima redovima kod kod izlaza izlaza za za slučaj slučaj opasnosti. opasnosti. Dodatno, Dodatno, svaki svaki putnik putnik može može ponijeti ponijeti uu kabinu: kabinu: -- 1 1 komad komad osobne osobne prtljage prtljage najveće najveće dopuštene dopuštene veličine veličine 40x30x10 40x30x10 cm cm -- putuje - 11 dječja dječja putuje lili ss djetetom djetetom do do 22 g. g. kolica kolica ili ili autosjedalicu autosjedalicu ili ili nosiljku nosiljku te te hranu hranu za za bebe bebe -- bolesne bolesne ii invalidne invalidne osobe osobe mogu mogu ponijeti ponijeti ortopedska ortopedska pomagala pomagala ili ili protetske protetske naprave naprave

The The hand hand baggage baggage allowance allowancefor foreconomy economy class class passengers passengers isis 11 piece pieceand andfor for business business class class passengers passengers22pieces pieces (weighing (weighing up up to to 88 kg, kg, whose whosetotal totalsum sumof of dimensions dimensions does does not not exceed exceed115 115cm). cm). Your Your hand hand baggage baggage must must be bestowed stowedinin overhead overhead compartments. compartments. All Allsmaller smaller bags bags with with aa Carry-on Carry-on Baggage Baggagetag tag must must be be placed placed under under the the seat seatin infront front of of you, you, except except in in emergency emergencyexit exitrows. rows. Each Each passenger passenger may may additionally additionallytake take into into the the passenger passenger cabin cabin the thefollowing: following: -- 11 personal personal item item whose whose maximum maximumsize size does does not not exceed exceed 40x30x10 40x30x10cm cm(16x12x4 (16x12x4in); in); -- each each passenger passenger travelling travellingwith withaachild child under under 22 years years of of age age isis also alsoallowed allowedto totake take aboard aboard 11 infant's infant's carrying carrying basket basketor oraafully fully collapsible collapsible stroller/pushchair stroller/pushchairor oraacar carseat seat and and baby baby food; food; -- disabled disabled passengers passengers may mayalso alsotake take11 pair pair of of crutches crutches and/or and/or braces bracesor orany any other other prosthetic prosthetic device. device.

20 20cm cm 100ml 100ml

30 cm 30 cm Carry-on Carry-on baggage baggage

10 cm 10 cm

55 cm 55 cm

20 cm 20 cm

118 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

front of you.

Not for exit rows.

20 20cm cm TEKUĆINE TEKUĆINEUURUČNOJ RUČNOJPRTLJAZI PRTLJAZI UUzrakoplov zrakoplovse sesmiju smijuunositi: unositi: --tekućine tekućinekupljene kupljeneuuduty dutyfree freeprodavaprodavaonicama onicamailiiliuuzrakoplovu, zrakoplovu,pod poduvjetom uvjetom da dasu suspremljene spremljeneuuprozirne prozirneplastične plastične vrećice, vrećice,zapečaćene zapečaćeneprilikom prilikomkupnje kupnje (STEB) (STEB)i i ne nesmiju smijuse seotvarati otvaratido dokrajnjeg krajnjeg odredišta odredišta --tekućine tekućinepakirane pakiraneuupojedinačnim pojedinačnim pakiranjima pakiranjimado do100 100ml mliliili100 100gguu prozirnoj prozirnojplastičnoj plastičnojvrećici vrećicisa sa zatvaračem zatvaračemdo do11litre litre --tekućine tekućinekoje kojese setijekom tijekomleta letakoriste koristeuu medicinske medicinskesvrhe svrheiliilizbog zbogposebnih posebnih prehrambenih prehrambenihpotreba potreba(dječja (dječjahrana). hrana). Ostale Ostaletekućine tekućinemogu moguse seprevoziti prevozitiuu predanoj predanojprtljazi. prtljazi. LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE The following can be taken aboard The following can be taken aboard our aircraft: our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

40 cm 40 cm

Please place this bag under Please place the bag seatunder in this front you. the of seat in

100ml 100ml

- liquids purchased in airside duty free - liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food). special nutritional needs (baby food). Other liquids can be transported in Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage. your checked baggage.

Cruise Cruise

o o ŽIVOTINJE ŽIVOTINJEUUPUTNIČKOJ PUTNIČKOJKABINI KABINI ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI UUkabini kabiniseseistodobno istodobnomogu moguprevoziti prevoziti samo dvije životinje - -dva psa iliilidvije samo dvije životinje dva dvije U kabini se istodobno mogupsa prevoziti mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke nanaistome mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke istome samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije letu dozvoljen. Životinje mogu letunije nijePrijevoz dozvoljen. mogu mačke. psa Životinje i mačke na istome putovati isključivo nošenje putovati isključivouŽivotinje utorbi torbizazamogu nošenjei i letu nije dozvoljen. prijevoz a tijekom prijevozkućnih kućnihljubimaca, ljubimaca, tijekomi putovati isključivo u torbi zaanošenje cijeloga biti ispod cijelogaleta letamoraju moraju bitiu utorbi ispod prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, atorbi tijekom prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje sesezbog prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje zbog cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod veličine mogu veličinene ne moguprevoziti prevozitiukoje uputničkoj putničkoj prednjeg sjedala. Životinje se zbog kabini se u uprtljažniku zrakoplokabiniprevoze prevoze prtljažniku zrakoploveličine ne moguse prevoziti u putničkoj va. jejedužan pribaviti va.Putnik Putnik dužan pribavitipotrebnu potrebnu kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplodokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba va. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu unaprijed i dodatno se plaća unaprijedrezervirati rezervirati i dodatno plaća dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinjasetreba uuposlovnicama. poslovnicama. unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća u poslovnicama. ANIMALS ANIMALSININTHE THEPASSENGER PASSENGERCABIN CABIN ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN On Onthe thesame sameflight, flight,only onlytwo twoanimals animals can be transported atatthe same time can besame transported the time-On the flight, only twosame animals either two dogs or two cats. The either two dogs or at two The can be transported thecats. same time transportation of dogs and transportation andcats catsononthe the either two dogs of or dogs two cats. The same permitted. AApassensameflight flightisisnot not permitted. passentransportation of dogs and cats on the ger carry only one totobebe gercan can carry only onepet petbag bag same flight is not permitted. A passenheld under the seat in front of the held under seat front of to thebe ger can carrythe only oneinpet bag passenger throughout the flight. passenger throughout theentire entire held under the seat in front of the flight. Animals that cannot be transported in Animals that cannot be passenger throughout thetransported entire flight.in the passenger cabin due to their size Animals that cannot bedue transported in the passenger cabin to their size are transported in the aircraft hold if the cabin due to their sizeif arepassenger transported in the aircraft hold they meet certain conditions. Passenare transported in the aircraft hold if they meet certain conditions. Passengers are required to obtain all the they certain conditions. gersmeet are required to obtain allPassenthe necessary documentation. Animal gers are required to obtain allAnimal the necessary documentation. transportation must be booked in necessary documentation. Animalin transportation must be booked advance at an additional charge to be transportation be booked in to be advance at anmust additional charge paid in any branch office. advance at an additional charge to be paid in any branch office. paid in any branch office.

ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja. upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja.

Dopuštene naprave: Dopušteneelektroničke elektroničke naprave: -ELEKTRONIČKI mobilni telefoni - mobilni/ pametni / pametni telefoni UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ -PRTLJAZI tablet - tabletračunala računala - slušalice - slušalicezazasuzbijanje suzbijanjebuke buke -Upotreba digitalni elektroničkih uređaja - digitalniaudio audio/ MP3 / MP3uređaji uređaji dopuštena -jeelektroničke u igre zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i - isključivo elektroničke igre -veće e-čitači uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je - e-čitači -upaljen prijenosna notebook znak/ obaveznoga vezanja. - prijenosna / notebookračunala računala - prijenosni - prijenosniDVD DVD/ CD / CDuređaji uređaji -Dopuštene Bluetooth elektroničke naprave: - Bluetoothuređaji uređaji - kamere mobilni / pametni telefoni - kamere - medicinski uređaji tablet računala - medicinski uređaji - električni brijaći aparati slušalice za suzbijanje buke - električni brijaći aparati Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - elektronički pušenja elektroničke igre - elektroničkiuređaji uređajizazasimuliranje simuliranje pušenja - samobalansirajući koji sadrže e-čitači - samobalansirajućiuređaji uređaji koji sadrže litijeve nisu uu ručnoj i i - prijenosna / notebook računala litijevebaterije baterije nisudozvoljeni dozvoljeni ručnoj predanoj - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji predanojprtljazi prtljazi - Bluetooth uređaji - kamere ELECTRONIC DEVICES YOUR HAND - medicinski uređaji ELECTRONIC DEVICESININ YOUR HAND BAGGAGE - električni brijaći aparati BAGGAGE Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: The devices is is allowed - elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja Theuse useofofelectronic electronic devices allowed only in airplane mode. Heavy and large - samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže only in airplane mode. Heavy and large devices must away while the litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u while ručnoj i devices mustbe bestored stored away the seat predanoj prtljazi seatbelt beltsign signisison. on. Electronic devices allowed aboard our Electronic devices allowed aboard our aircraft: ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND aircraft: -BAGGAGE mobile/smart telephones - mobile/smart telephones - tablet computers - tablet computers -The noise-cancelling headphones use of electronic devices is allowed - noise-cancelling headphones -only digital audio/MP3 players in airplane mode. Heavy and large - digital audio/MP3 players -devices electronic games must be stored away while the - electronic games -seat e-book readers belt sign is on. - e-book readers - laptop/notebook computers - laptop/notebook computers devicesplayers allowed aboard our -Electronic portable DVD/CD - portable DVD/CD players -aircraft: Bluetooth devices - Bluetooth devices mobile/smart telephones - cameras - cameras tablet computers - medical devices - medical devices noise-cancelling - electric shavers headphones - electric shavers - digital audio/MP3 Electronic devices players not allowed aboard Electronic devices not allowed aboard - electronic our aircraft:games our aircraft: - e-book electric readers smoking simulation devices - electric smoking simulation devices - laptop/notebook self-balancing devices that run on computers - self-balancing devices that run on lithium batteries areplayers not allowed in either - portable DVD/CD lithium batteries are not allowed in either your hand baggage or checked baggage - Bluetooth your handdevices baggage or checked baggage

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga Zakonom zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. ToTo susu eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i i eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine - cameras čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, - medical devices infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni - electric shavers plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd. itd. Electronic devices not allowed aboard our aircraft: ITEMS NOT ALLOWED ITEMS NOT ALLOWED - electric smoking simulation devices - self-balancing devices that run on The carrying of hazardous items and The carrying ofare hazardous items lithium batteries not allowed inand either materials in in either your hand baggage or or materials either your hand baggage your hand baggage or checked baggage checked baggage is prohibited by law. checked baggage is prohibited by law. These are explosives, flammable liquids These are explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials, infectious and solids, radioactive materials, infectious substances and poisons, weapons, substances and poisons, weapons, compressed gases, corrosive and compressed gases, corrosive and oxidising agents, etc. oxidising agents, etc.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. USLUGA TIJEKOM To su eksplozivi, lakoLETA zapaljive tekućine i USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, infektivne tvarii ipića otrovi, oružje, stlačeni Svi susu obroci u našim zrakoplovima Svi obroci i pića u našim zrakoplovima plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu itd. prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem ITEMS NOT Za ALLOWED Sky shopu. posebne prigode postoji Sky shopu. Za posebne prigode postoji mogućnost kupnje torte i pjenušca koje mogućnost torte items i pjenušca The carrying ofkupnje hazardous and koje poslužujemo na letu. Dopuštena je poslužujemo nayour letu. hand Dopuštena je or materials in either baggage konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih pića checked baggage is prohibited by law.pića konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih koja suare poslužena u zrakoplovu. These explosives, liquids koja su poslužena uflammable zrakoplovu. and solids, radioactive materials, infectious SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS substances poisons, weapons, SERVICE and DURING FLIGHTS compressed gases, corrosive and All meals agents, and drinks oxidising etc.aboard our aircraft are All meals and drinks aboard our aircraft are free of charge, and the service offered free of charge, and the service offered depends on the travel class, the length of depends on the travel class, the length of flight and the part of day of the flight. flight and the part of day of the flight. During your flight, you can shop in our Sky During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Shop. For special occasions, a cake and Shop. For special occasions, a cake and sparkling wine can be purchased to be sparkling wine can be purchased to be served during the flight. The consumption served during the flight. The consumption of only those alcoholic beverages that are of only those alcoholic beverages that are served aboard our aircraft is allowed. served aboard our aircraft is allowed. www.croatiaairlines.com CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021 _ 119

www.croatiaairlines.com

SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

COVID-19 ZAŠTITIMO SE Pomozite nam u očuvanju vašeg zdravlja i sigurnosti pridržavajući se sljedećih važnih uputa: - Započnite putovanje samo ako se osjećate zdravo. Imate li povišenu tjelesnu temperaturu, gubitak osjeta njuha i okusa, jaki kašalj i kratki dah te ako je vaše zdravstveno stanje loše molimo vas da odgodite svoje putovanje. - U kabinu zrakoplova unesite što manje ručne prtljage kako biste smanjili fizički kontakt. Ponesite samo osobne i vrijedne stvari dozvoljene veličine (torbice, manje ruksake i torbe za prijenosna računala). - Na svim našim letovima obvezno je nositi vlastitu masku ili pokrivalo za lice koje treba staviti preko usta i nosa. Iznimke su moguće samo za djecu mlađu od šest godina i putnike s invaliditetom koji imaju liječničku potvrdu i negativan PCR test koji je izdan do 48 sati prije leta. To se odnosi i na odlazni i na povratni let. - Viziri nisu dopušteni kao zamjena za pokrivala za lice na našim letovima jer ne pružaju adekvatnu zaštitu. Viziri sprečavaju kapljično prenošenje s prednje strane, no protok zraka s bočnih strana i dalje je moguć. - U toaletima u svim našim zrakoplovima na raspolaganju su vam sredstva za dezinfekciju ruku. - Za svakog putnika osigurali smo vlažne maramice kojima možete prebrisati sjedalo (naslon, rukohvate, otvore za ventilaciju i sl.). - Obratite pažnju na sigurnosnu demonstraciju. Čak i ako ne letite prvi put, korisno je pratiti demonstraciju o sigurnosti leta svaki put. - Preporučujemo vam da budete vezani tijekom cijeloga leta. - Usluga na našem letu prilagođena je i pojednostavljena za vrijeme pandemije. Kako bismo što više smanjili kontakt između putnika i osoblja, naša uobičajena usluga nije dostupna. Prema preporuci HZJZ-a privremeno vam poslužujemo samo vodu u bočici. - U zrakoplovu nije dopuštena konzumacija vlastitog alkoholnog pića. - Kad kašljete ili kišete, prekrijte usta i nos maramicom ili laktom. - Izbjegavajte bespotrebno dodirivanje površina i korištenje otvora za ventilaciju.

- Ponesite vlastitu kemijsku olovku za popunjavanje obrazaca ili unaprijed popunite obrazac koji je potreban za ulazak u vašu destinaciju, a nalazi se na našoj web stranici (www.croatiaairlines.com/hr/Vazna-obavijest/Informaje-za-punike-vezane -za-COVID-19/Uvjeti-ulaska-u-drzavu). - Ne fotografirajte posadu i putnike. Fotografiranje i snimanje u zrakoplovu moguće je jedino uz dopuštenje posade. - Kad izlazite iz zrakoplova, držite minimalnu dopuštenu udaljenost i cijelo vrijeme nosite zaštitnu masku do izlaska iz odredišne zračne luke. - Molimo vas da u svakom trenutku slijedite upute naše posade. Ako se putnik u zrakoplovu ponaša tako da ugrožava zrakoplov, bilo koju osobu ili imovinu u zrakoplovu, zadržavamo pravo stavljanja putnika na crnu listu.

- We provide each passenger with wet wipes with which to wipe their seat (backrest, armrest, ventilation openings, etc.). - Pay attention to the pre-flight safety briefing. Even if you’re not flying for the first time, following the pre-flight safety briefing is useful every time. - We recommend that you keep your seat belt fastened throughout the entire flight. - Inflight services have been adjusted and reduced during the pandemic. To minimise contact between passengers and crew, our regular inflight services are currently suspended and unavailable. Implementing the guidelines issued by the Croatian National Institute of Public Health, we are temporarily serving only bottled water. - The consumption of alcoholic beverages which you take on board with you is not allowed aboard our aircraft.

COVID-19 HELP US PROTECT YOU Help us protect your health and safety by following these important guidelines: - Start your journey only if you feel healthy. If you have a fever, if you’ve lost your sense of smell and taste, if you’ve got a bad cough or if you’re experiencing shortness of breath, and if your health is poor, please postpone your flight. - Take as little hand luggage as possible into the passenger cabin to reduce physical contact. Take only personal items and valuables of the size allowed (handbags, smaller backpacks and laptop bags). - The wearing of face covers or face masks covering your mouth and nose is mandatory on all our flights, with the exception of children under the age of six and passengers with disabilities who must provide a medical certificate and a negative PCR test issued no more than 48 hours prior to departure. This applies to both outbound and inbound flights. - Visors are not allowed as a substitute for face masks or face covers on our flights because they do not provide adequate protection. Visors prevent the spread of droplets only from the front, but not from the sides of your face. - Hand disinfectants are available in the lavatories of all our aircraft.

: - While coughing or sneezing, make sure you cover your mouth and nose with a tissue or you cough or sneeze into your elbow.

- Avoid touching surfaces and using ventilation openings unless necessarily. - Bring your own ballpoint pen to complete a passenger locator form or complete it in advance. All entry requirements and forms are available on our webpage at https:// m.croatiaairlines.com/Importantnotice/Important-informationabout-COVID-19/Entry-requirements/ - You are not allowed to take photographs of the crew and passengers. You must obtain permission from the crew to take photographs and to film while aboard the aircraft. - While exiting the aircraft, maintain social distancing and wear a face mask or face cover at all times until you exit the airport building. - Please follow the instructions of our crew at all times. We reserve the right to blacklist passengers aboard the aircraft whose behaviour poses a threat to the safety of the aircraft itself, any person or property aboard the aircraft.

#CTNwecare

AIRPORTS

Mobilna aplikacija Croatia Airlinesa vaš najbolji suputnik!

S. Jungić

Croatia Airlines mobile app your best travel companion!

Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals

Preuzmite našu mobilnu aplikaciju i imat ćete sve što vam je potrebno prije i za vrijeme leta nadohvat ruke: kupnja aviokarata, red letenja, status leta, check-in, ponude i još mnogo toga... Aplikacija je dostupna na hrvatskom, engleskom, njemačkom i francuskom jeziku. Download it and have everything you need before and during your flight with us in the palm of your hand: flight booking, timetable, flight status, check-in, offers and more... Our app is available in Croatian, English, German and French.

ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION

ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT

TERMINAL

AMSTERDAM (AMS)

Schiphol Amsterdam Airport

terminal 3

ATHENS (ATH)

Athens International Airport

main terminal

BRUSSELS (BRU)

Brussels Airport Zaventem

terminal B

PARIS (CDG)

Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport

terminal 2D

COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUBLIN (DUB)

Copenhagen Airport Dublin Airport

terminal 2 terminal 1

DUSSELDORF (DUS)

Düsseldorf Airport

terminal A

ROME (FCO)

Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport

terminal 3

FRANKFURT (FRA)

Frankfurt Airport

terminal 1

LONDON GATWICK (LGW)

Gatwick Airport

terminal S

LONDON HEATHROW (LHR)

Heathrow Airport

terminal 2

LYON (LYS)

Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport terminal 1

MUNICH (MUC)

Munich Airport

terminal 2

SARAJEVO (SJJ)

Sarajevo International Airport

terminal B

SKOPJE (SKP)

Skopje Alexander the Great Airport

main terminal

BERLIN (TXL)

Berlin Tegel Airport

terminal A, C

VIENNA (VIE)

Vienna Airport

terminal 3

ZURICH (ZRH)

Zurich Airport

terminal 2

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information

plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr

www.plesoprijevoz.hr

ZAGREB

Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094

RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757 CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

_ 121

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft. Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

35,8 / 117

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg) 73.500 / 77.000

64.000 / 75.500

29.257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11.900 / 39.000

7620 / 25.000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144/150

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

122 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 1/2021

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

Dublin Copenhagen

Amsterdam

London

Berlin Dusseldorf

Brussels Paris

Frankfurt

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Lyon

Zagreb Pula

Osijek

Rijeka

Sarajevo Zadar Split Rome Bol Dubrovnik

Skopje

Athens

Napomena: Sve navedene informacije podložne su promjenama ovisno o trenutnoj situaciji s pandemijom izazvanom virusom COVID-19.

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SAS

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