The Island Trail The Newsletter of the Maine Island Trail Association • Fall 2000
Platform Plan
Designs for the Maine Island Trail
MITA Tests a Tent Platform
by Art Paine
by Kevin Lomangino As a showcase for what is probably the worst example of tent sprawl on the Trail, Hells Half Acre Island near Stonington was targeted early in the year as a prime place to experiment with a temporary tent platform. Tent
A HIOBS volunteer secures the base of the new tent platform. Photo by Rachel Nixon.
platforms are often employed to help manage heavily used backcountry areas. The idea is to concentrate user impact on the platform, thereby protecting the surrounding soil and greenery. The plan was to build the structure, post a sign explaining its purpose, and provide a log book where users would be encouraged to submit feedback. By highlighting the platform’s experimental nature and providing a quick response mechanism, we hoped to generate a real and (continued on page 7)
Art Paine joins our discussion of Maine island cruisers with his round-up of three minimalist craft for island-hopping under oar and sail. Reprinted from Maine Boats & Harbors, July 2000.
C
oastal “trail fever” really started with the Hurricane Island Outward Bound program. People would come from afar and experience the delights and dangers of sailing the Maine coast in small open boats. They found that it was not only possible to travel long distances, propelled by a combination of sail and oar, but also to achieve a good night’s sleep on any thwart—no matter how hard— once the exhaustion level reached a Penobscot 17, L.O.A. 17’0”, minimum benchmark. Both stuL.O.W. 15’8”, Beam 5’4”, dents and instructors were inDraft 91/2” up/3’ down, Displ. 260-300 lbs. (est.), fected. Few went away without Designed by: Arch Davis, lasting memories of the exquisBelfast, Maine. ite beauty, peace, and, yes, carefreeness, that evolve out of applying a minimalist perspective toward cruising. The best of the experience—the sunrises and sunsets, a bracing morning dip, swimming with the seals, that special feeling of security that comes when you’re nestled way up in a sheltered tidal cove, can be just as attainable for those in small (continued on page 4)
Further Down the Trail by Rachel Nixon, Pat Born Smith and Karen Stimpson
MITA BOARD OF TRUSTEES Greg Barmore • Pat Born Smith • Bill Brown Rob Cabot • Wes Crain Morris Hancock Robert Ives • Annette Naegel • Chuck Remmel Ted Scharf • David Shultz • Greg Schute Steve Spencer • Hans Underdahl Jeremy Wintersteen EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Karen Stimpson MEMBERSHIP AND BUSINESS MANAGER
Peg Deutsch
If the past five years are any indication of what lies ahead on Maine’s wilderness islands in 2001 and beyond, then we’re all in for quite a ride – together. With recreational use levels anticipated to rise, we at MITA are hunkering down with our island stakeholder colleagues to develop a visionary and practical island usage management plan.
PROGRAMS MANAGER
Leanne Dech USAGE MANAGEMENT PROJECT MANAGER
Rachel Nixon PUBLICATIONS EDITOR
Kevin Lomangino MEMBERSHIP DATABASE MANAGER
Joanie Rhoda
A Review of Concerns As we have discussed time and again, there are several key problems that warrant attention and action on the part of all island stakeholders:
OUTREACH/OFFICE COORDINATOR
Tania Neuschafer
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PROJECT ASSISTANT
Pam Tremblay PROJECT COORDINATOR
Sid Quarrier, Volunteer
The Maine Island Trail is a 325-mile long waterway extending from Casco Bay on the west to Machias Bay on the east. Along the route, state-owned and private islands are available to members or the public for overnight stopovers where one can picnic or camp in a wilderness setting. The Maine Island Trail Association (MITA) is a nonprofit conservation organization, whose goal is to establish a model of thoughtful use and volunteer stewardship for the Maine islands that will assure their conservation in a natural state while providing an exceptional recreational asset that is maintained and cared for by the people who use it. This goal is achieved by encouraging a philosophy of low-impact use and environmental awareness among MITA’s members and island visitors. MAINE ISLAND TRAIL ASSOCIATION Mailing Address:
P.O. Box C, Rockland, Maine 04841-0735 Office Locations: 328 Main Street, Rockland, Maine 04841 (207) 596-6456 41A Union Wharf, Portland, Maine 04101-4607 (207) 761-8225 E-Mail Addresses: Rockland: islands@ime.net Portland: mita@ime.net Web site: www.mita.org The Island Trail is a publication of the Maine Island Trail Association. Vol. 12
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No. 3
On the popular public Trail islands, recreational use levels threaten to outstrip the resource’s capability, and people are not always selfless enough “to obey the unenforceable” and go somewhere else.
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Environmental degradation, witnessed through soil erosion and compaction, root exposure and tree disfigurement, is a direct result of overuse.
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High levels of use lead to social problems on the islands. Overcrowding and diverse user values create tension among user groups.
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Where MITA islands are located near a year-round community, conflicts between these residents and boaters have grown as the number of boater tourists has increased. Local citizens do not like seeing their launch ramps overcrowded, their favorite beaches overrun, nor do they want to worry about hitting kayakers while tending to their lobster traps.
A Question of Ethics In each of these cases, the real problem is that there is a correlating ethical dilemma, a question of two values coming into conflict. For example, it is right to provide an exceptional wilderness, recreational experience to people “from away;” the 48 public islands on the Trail are, after all, public. Yet it is also right to respect and protect the traditions and privacy of year-round residents. It is right, some would say, to conserve these island treasures by keeping them unspoiled; but it is also right to provide for responsible human enjoyment and a spiritual connection to these resources.
It is right, some would say, to conserve these island treasures by keeping them unspoiled; but it is also right to provide for responsible human enjoyment and a spiritual connection to these resources. Strategies in 2000 With encouragement from our membership, the Bureau of Parks & Lands (BPL), and other island stakeholders, and with backing of $90,372 in foundation support in 2000, MITA launched the Maine Island Usage Management Project. To facilitate the sharing of differing viewpoints about recreational use issues, we convened two public forums and three advisory committee meetings during the off season. T he various island stakeholders came
to agreement on use guidelines and voluntary restrictions for island visitors, out of which MITA developed overnight carrying capacities and educational signs for 35 public Trail islands. During the summer, MITA collaborated with the BPL to develop an Island Caretaker Program in Casco Bay and to build a trial tent platform on Hell’s Half Acre in the Stonington region (see cover story). This year was also a busy one for our education initiatives. Building on new partnerships with Leave No Trace, Inc. (LNT) and the Maine Appalachian Trail Club, MITA held LNT Workshops along the coast, training over 150 trip leaders and users in lowimpact techniques and ethics.
drew active participation from island users and conservation groups, but we now need to reach “beyond the choir” to non-user stakeholders who feel the pressures brought on by a growing recreating public. Forums in coastal communities will bring conflicting values and collaborative solutions to the table. •
Where Do We Go From Here? In 2001-2003, MITA will focus its efforts in the following areas: •
Research & Strategic Planning. Investigations into recreation and resource management strategies implemented successfully throughout the U.S. will help inform MITA about next steps for managing the public Trail islands. This research will also provide valuable information for the development of the long-term Trail Management Plan. Once complete, this plan will be the guiding framework for all future management decisions on the Maine Island Trail.
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Collaboration. The key to whole-hearted compliance with voluntary island use guidelines lies in fostering participation among all island visitors. When the users themselves determine the “rules,” they are more likely to cooperate. This must continue to be a primary focus, given that the entire project is predicated on good will, not outside enforcement.
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Community Participation. Our public meetings in 2000
Management Strategies. MITA must continue to work with the state and coastal land trusts to seek additional mainland sites or to help disperse use away from the already heavily impacted areas. MITA must also consider “hardening” or closing specific sites on some islands, as well as continue to implement voluntary camping capacities and length-ofstay limits.
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Caretaker Program. The launching of the Island Caretaker Program in Casco Bay in 2001 will serve as a model for future caretaker programs in other heavily-impacted regions of the Trail.
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Public Education. Reaching as many users as possible with the ethic of sustainable use and specific recreational use guidelines before they reach the islands is of critical importance to the Trail’s health.
MITA’s vision for the future is based in large part on feedback from members. If you have questions or comments about MITA’s priorities for the coming years, please contact us in the Portland office. ■
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR On RV Barges and Moorings Dear MITA: You did the correct thing. Thanks for representing us. 1. The RV barge, though unsightly, has as much right to use the Maine coast as anyone. I’m glad it didn’t work out, though. 2. The rental moorings are definitely an infringement upon otherwise excellent anchoring sites. Not only are they using public domain for their own private profit, but the moorings even when empty (and they usually were!) prevent safe anchoring for other boats using the harbor. They prevent safe “scope” and “swinging room.” Keep up the good work! Paul Forman Albion, ME
MITA Ignores “Ambience Impact” Replying to the provocative article about barging in the summer 2000 issue of The Island Trail, I support the decision to oppose rental moorings and urge MITA to take active positions in opposing such intrusive schemes as the now-defunct oversized barges. The first, rental moorings, is a simple issue of interfering with navigation for which there are clear guidelines. The second, barging, is much less clear. I would argue, in this case, that it’s not possible to itemize every kind of endeavor in legislation designed to control unwise impacts. Rather, there is a boundary line beyond which responsible people should be trusted not to cross, and those that do expose themselves to whatever pressure can be mounted against them. Evidently, my reasoning follows that of others who were concerned about the barging affair. But MITA, by not joining the outcry, held itself aloof from (continued on page 4) 3
LETTERS (continued from page 3)
DESIGNS (continued from page 1)
crossing a self imposed line having to do with environmental irresponsibility or impeding access. However, I suggest that environmental responsibility includes not only protecting physical elements such as trees and grass, but also the remote ambience of an area. The presence of a huge barge loaded with RVs, anchored close to the marvelous islands and shorelines for which Maine is uniquely fortunate to have, seems to me to be an intrusion far more than just the presence of a few more power boats and should be something worthy of MITA’s active opposition.
craft as for the “fortunate” ones anchored farther out. Until very recently, a hairshirted perspective was commonly linked to coastal smallboat cruising. Perhaps the legacy of our Puritan forebears, combined with the “make do or do without” ethic that has only lately faded among New Englanders, was responsible for dictating that one’s enjoyment would be enriched in direct proportion to how much you suffered for it. Virtually every old-school yacht designer, and not a few yachting writers, reinforced this minimalist ethic. Some expressed the point better than others. L. Francis Hereshoff mastered the tone in his book, The Compleat Cruiser; he was preceded by Erskine Childer’s Riddle of the Sands. Many other luminaries have tried to drive home the point that small-boat camping, whether afloat in a cove, or hauled up on the beach and tenting ashore, is a rather simple pleasure. Along the Maine coast, the Island Institute worked to preserve the wilderness nature of our offshore islands, specifically by creating and promoting the Maine Island Trail, which includes per-
Al Goldberg Newton, MA
More Perfect Cruiser Comments In reply to Ben Fuller’s comments about a boat for the Maine Island Trail (“Island Cruisers: The Search Goes On,” summer 2000 issue), I wish to suggest that “beachable” is an inappropriate attribute to wish for a MITA-type boat. The great majority of Maine’s islands do not have beaches you can pull a boat up on, especially for an overnight stay. Indeed, “weatherly,” “seakindly,” and “seaworthy” seem to me more important and appropriate characteristics than beachable. So, to somehow try to do away with any semblance of keel or skeg for the sake of making a boat beachable seems to me to cause a new set of problems, perhaps the very ones seen in the enlarged, flat-bottom version of Joel White’s Shearwater which Ben spoke about. Wasn’t she reputedly “wet”, and didn’t she “pound” in the seas? And couldn’t this be because she was designed with a “beachable” bottom? Bill Boyd Yarmouth, ME 4
haps the most beautiful stretch of sailing waters in the temperate world. Thus far, most of the benefits of the Trail have accrued to two small groups: a small number of motorboaters and whole flocks of sea kayakers. It has not escaped the attention of certain lovers of small boats, including this magazine’s [Maine Boats & Harbors] publisher John Hanson, contributor Ben Fuller, and yours truly, that the Maine Island Trail is notably absent a dedicated camp-cruising design. Many years ago I spelled out certain parameters that I felt might be ideal for such a boat, but I think I missed the mark. At that time the Trail didn’t yet exist in enfranchised form, meaning that one didn’t know for certain that tents or camp stoves were welcome on specific islands, so I proposed a boat that relegated one to the rigors of sleeping in the cockpit. Now that the Maine Island Trail opens up the possibility for a night’s sleep ashore, the nature of the ideal boat has been altered. What is wanted is a small, simple, trailerable, beachable boat that can be both rowed and sailed. One that can perhaps be built by the owner. Although many existing small boats, such as many de-
Contest Continuance Our quest to find the perfect boat for the Maine Island Trail is heating up! We’ve had a very enthusiastic response to our contest announcement, and we’ll be publishing the winning entries in the next issue of The Island Trail. To enter the contest and win a fabulous prize, simply send us a photo of yourself (and/or family, friends, etc.) and one photo of your boat, or a single photo that depicts you and your boat together. Also send us a very brief (150 words maximum) description of why you think your boat is the ideal craft for cruising or paddling the Trail. Remember, all types of boats, whether muscle-, wind-, or motor-powered, are eligible for inclusion. Send your photo prints or slides (sorry, no e-mail submissions, please) and description to: Maine Island Trail Association, Attn: Perfect Boat Contest, 41A Union Wharf, Portland ME 04101. Please make sure to include a self-addressed, stamped envelope if you would like us to return your photos. The deadline for submissions is February 16, 2001. If you have any questions about the contest, please call the MITA Portland office or e-mail Kevin Lomangino at mita@ime.net. ■
signed by Phil Bolger, Florida “hen” boats, or sail-rigged Swampscott dories, might be applied to the task, Maine Boats & Harbors has actively promoted efforts by several designers to develop small boats specifically for the Trail. Here are three fascinating designs, all by small-boat experts who are both accomplished designers and boatbuilders. While all three have a few elements in common (plywood planking first among them) you could hardly ask for a more varied approach.
to windward. Davis has given us a conundrum by suggesting three possible sail rigs. Since every one looks terrific on this hull, choosing one rig over the others could be difficult. The detailed drawings for the Penobscot 17 are incredibly clear and precise, and thus perfect for home building. The designer shows a strong and relatively easy construction method involving a strongback and notched bulkheads, and stringers that ensure a professional-looking job of lining off the planks. Davis has invented a clever way of avoiding elaborate planing of the plank edges, using filler material to both widen and strengthen the laps. The end result is a boat with thin but strong plywood planking that has all the external appearance of a stout little thing planked with thick cedar stakes.
19' - 5' 1/8" 19 - 0"
10' - 5"
6' - 1"
Penobscot 17 Before I get lost in the details, I must point out that the designer of this boat, Arch Davis, of Belfast, Maine, has a connoisseur’s eye. He has created an exquisitely proportioned, beautiful small craft. This is a very rowboat-looking boat, with sails added almost as a luxury. The hull has a broad transom, and because of that, I expect that an optional outboard motor, a miniscule one, might be feasible. And there might be just a bit more stowage provided beneath the stern seats. Whether there are any other advantages to a transom over a doubleended hull is arguable, though I expect it should make sculling more efficient because the stem wouldn’t tend to depress and thus raise the bow, sacrificing tracking ability. I also expect that it will make the boat more suitable for amateur building, as planking to a transom simplifies construction. This boat has a very long and dutiful skeg, which makes sense to me because a boat that must be rowed tirelessly over long distances will benefit from unusual directional stability. The keel/skeg shown here will be just the ticket for that, and will provide extra lateral plane when sailing on long reaches and runs, thus making the centerboard less necessary. The hull also has seating all along the sides, which enhances the ability to carry sail, as the crew can apply their weight
10 - 0"
3' - 8 7/8"
Harrier Another boat of exactly the same overall length as the Penobscot 17, designed specifically for the Maine Island Trail, is the Harrier. It is the creation of professional designer Antonio Dias of Narragansett, Rhode Island, in consultation with Ben Fuller, an experienced 10' - 5" small19' - 0"
9' - 6 3/4"
6' - 1 3/8"
6' - 9"
The Harrier’s bmast becomes a ridge pole for a cozy temporary shelter.
boat sailor. Dias began with his popular Marsh Hawk model and made changes to create a beachable boat, including the small, flat bottom, which distinguishes the Harrier as a wherry. The double-ended stern is both comely and unique in a boat of this hull section. It might be argued that such a stern better suits
10' - 11 1/4"
6' - 11 7/8"
7' - 7 1/2"
6' - 9"
Harrier, L.O.A. 17’6”, L.O.W. 15’, Beam 4’11”, Draft 3’4” up/5’5” down, Displ. 610 lbs. (est.), Designed by: Antonio Dias Design, Narragansett, Rhode Island, www.diasdesign.com.
the boat for some of the long sea reaches of the Trail, including such runs as Pemaquid to Port Clyde, East and West Penobscot Bays, and a couple of offshore stretches out near Petit Manan. One of the primary tenets of small boat seamanship is to bail early and often, and this design is tailored for that. The interior presents a clear and uncluttered surface to sweep with a Clorox™ bottle or other bailer of choice. Ben Fuller says one of the appeals of going offshore under sail or oar is “to feel a little closer to God.” In that light you will note that the Harrier isn’t exceptionally high in freeboard, which makes for less windage, hence better r o w - ing. On the other hand, this is a boat with ample beam where it is needed, and with the ultimate in seakindly lines. I suspect that overall the boat will afford a feeling of closeness to the elements with the personality to rise above them when they’re at their worst. There is every reason to ex(continued on page 6) 5
DESIGN (continued from page 5) pect good performance under sail. The hull is markedly cod’stail/mackerel-headed in the modern tradition. This configuration encourages the crew to move aft when sitting out, while it presents a finer entry that won’t be stopped by the pesky third wave. In terms of rowing performance, I can only cite the similarity of this boat to such exceptional performers as the peapods and the Hurricane Island pulling boats. Because this boat has a flip-up rudder but no skeg to speak of, I expect that one could use the rudder in the up position, sheeted off, to offset whatever steering habits the boat acquires in a given wind and sea. This Tony Dias design has been carefully planned for amateur construction and will be built in quantity by the boatbuilding apprentices at Atlantic Challenge in Rockland. Undoubtedly, the Trail will be traversed by fleets of Harriers in time. Surely none of our other two models will be easier to haul up a rocky beach than this one. Dias guesses that the boat will weigh just over 200 pounds all up, with Okoume plywood planking for the topsides and Sapele, a harder species, for the bottom. As such, she’s cartoppable and thus, an exceptionally versatile entry in our stable of Maine Island Trail cruisers.
Beach Cruiser 2 Our final Trail cruiser is as different as the other two are similar. The Beach Cruiser 2, designed by boatbuilder John Brooks of Mount Desert, is a true sailboat that only would use oars in an auxiliary sense, and that is large enough to suggest an outboard motor on a removable bracket. The boat is partially decked, which would provide drier stowage for camping gear as well as make her just a little more seaworthy, at least in theory. There is only enough 6
Beach Cruiser 2, L.O.A. 21’2”, L.O.W. 17’6”, Beam 5’3”, Draft 11” (board up), Designed by: John Brooks, Brooks Boats, Mount Desert, Maine.
cockpit coaming, just a little bead, really, to shed spray and rainwater, and thus the narrow side deck is comfortable for sitting out. And I must say that given her narrowness and the generous spread of sail, it will require a bit of sitting out, or hiking, to keep her on her feet. Despite everything published in the yachting press about the computer science of design, the very best professionals are still basically using eyeball, experience and judgment. Although I am not a professional designer, my eye dictates that this boat is over-canvassed, despite any amount of metal that might be worked into the centerboard. But it is clear to me that the masts can be very easily stepped and unstepped, and that a sailor with any sense could simply deploy whatever sails are called for. I can see the Beach Cruiser 2, for instance, happily bounding along on main alone, or on that jumbo jib and jigger. I sincerely doubt that there would ever be need for the optional overlapping genoa. With just this one reservation regarding sail area, this model is a favorite of mine. Partly this is from having seen many of the beautiful lapped-plywood rowboats and dinghies John Brooks fashions in his shop on Mt. Desert. Brooks’ boats look like works of art, and they perform every bit as nicely as they look.
In addition, Brooks has almost a racer’s understanding of how to build in high strength and light weight. Although it is inconceivable that this boat could easily be hauled up a beach by two people, despite the grounding shoe, I expect the job could be done with air rollers, which could stow under the foredeck. If the beach is too steep and rocky, the crew could sleep aboard, as the centrally located rower’s thwart is removable, providing sufficient space on either side of the centerboard case. There’s enough volume in the hull so that, with an extra grommet here and there in the mainsail, a cockpit tent could be rigged by draping the main over the unstepped mizzen. Even though John Brooks only intended his drawings to be studies, I can’t refrain from complimenting his inherent artist’s eye. There is a consistency among the gracefully curved gaff, the spoon bow, the bent splash rail, and even the rudimentary sectional lines that is the work of an aesthete. I can picture this boat on the Trail or on a trailer, with gleaming varnished spruce spars and, naturally, bright mahogany topsides. I expect she’d steal your heart in the same way as a spiffy Danish folkboat or Swedish skerry cruiser. Except for the centerboard, that’s the sort of heritage behind her. ■ Art Paine is a boatbuilder, photographer, and writer. He lives in Bernard, Maine.
PLATFORM (continued from page 1) meaningful discussion of the pros and cons of this strategy. The Bureau of Parks and Lands’ Steve Spencer coordinated the project together with Mita’s Rachel Nixon, but the grueling work of actually constructing the platform was carried out by a dedicated crew of volunteers from the Hurricane Island Outward Bound School. The team of 11 students and two instructors toiled late into the day, but when they were finished there could be no doubt as to the scope of their accomplishment. The new 12’ x 14’ platform is well built and has room for about two medium-sized tents. It looks to be very much up to its task of protecting the island soil.
Favorable Response Since the platform was put in place on August 8, several visitors have used it, and many have penned a few lines in the platform’s log book. On the inside cover of the log book we asked visitors these questions: “Do you think tent platforms should be considered for use on all of the heavily used sites on this island? On other heavily used islands? Would people use them? What are the benefits and drawbacks?” Here is a selection of the responses received, all of which have been positive so far: “The platforms are very comfortable and at the same time protecting the soil. It is in great need and use.” Janet, Chewonki Tripper “Nice flat place to sleep. In heavy rain (8/16) water goes under tent – no big deal. A mouse likes to hide under the platform. Thanks for your good work. Good idea.” Mike “T” & Kimo “Powerful idea. Need two to prevent problems. Keep up the great work.” Louis & Carol, Roebling, NJ
The HIOBS team takes a well deserved break on top of their handiwork. Photo by Rachel Nixon.
“We visit sometimes by sailboat. [The] Tent platform seems a sensible solution. We hope it’ll be a success. (We like many other sailors do not camp on islands.)” Ralph & Liedeke, Swans Island, ME “Good idea, but maybe lean-tos would also be useful and better hidden. Overall a great island, great time.” Sarah & Dave, Syracuse, NY
Dissenting Opinions While we are pleased to see this positive response from island visitors, we realize that this small sampling of feedback may not represent the thinking of our membership as a whole. And, while most land managers swear by tent platforms as a way of mitigating impact, we have also heard some stories that give good reason for pause. Atrig Fanguay of Searsport Shores, a mainland waterfront campground in Searsport, Maine, said that her experiment with two 12’ x 16’ tent platforms has not gone as well as she would have liked. She expected the platforms to help “define the tenting area,” but instead found that they made the sites even bigger than before. Why? Because people generally don’t like the platforms and only a small percentage of people actually sleep on them, she said. She found that most people used the platforms for cooking and set up their tents beside the platform on
the ground. This ended up flattening an even larger space than would otherwise have been used.
What Do You Think? This anecdote highlights the importance of educating visitors as to the purpose of tent platforms – something we will communicate through our publications, Leave No Trace workshops, and educational signs at the campsite. In the past, island visitors have always been willing to do what’s best for the island environment, and we believe that the same will hold true as we embark on this new phase of island management. Tent platforms are not a panacea, and at the present time we do not feel they are needed on the vast majority of islands. We do believe that they will be an effective management tool on heavily used public islands like Hells Half Acre, but we want to see how well they work before we move too far ahead. As always, member input will be an important factor in determining how we proceed with this initiative. Do you feel strongly that tent platforms should or should not be built on heavily used public islands? Please give us a call in the Portland office or drop us a line with your thoughts. ■ 7
The Rime of the Rescued Kayaker A Must-Read Reality Check for All Maine Coast Paddlers by Dennis Liu Like Coleridge’s ancient mariner, author Dennis Liu survived a harrowing adventure at sea and warns others not to repeat his mistakes. Here we excerpt portions of his article, which initially appeared in the June 1999 issue of Atlantic Coastal Kayaker. (Regrettably, space constraints have forced us to edit out quite a bit of the tale.) We pick up the story in mid-telling as Dennis, a kayaker with reasonable experience, and his partner Cleeves, a paddling novice, set off for a trip in Casco Bay. Their boat is loaded with ample provisions, but they lack some key safety equipment... Despite what you’ve read, and may even continue to read, I’m not a reckless buffoon. I’m more of a moderate buffoon. I’d been desperately looking forward to my Maine kayaking adventure. Earlier in the summer, a nasty respiratory infection had brought me down like a winded basset hound, and caused me to miss a much-anticipated hike in Alaska’s Brooks Range. I was adjusting to the stresses of a move and a new job and now I was feeling stronger and in need of some fresh air. I was out here on the Atlantic to relax and blow off some steam. I had convinced Cleeves, a good friend of 15 years and partner on a variety of hiking adventures, that he ought to give sea kayaking a try. It just so happens that Cleeves grew up outside of Portland, Maine, on Casco Bay. Although he had only been in a sea kayak once, we had built a strip canoe together while in graduate school. He’s kind of a “young man of the sea” type, with good mariner sense, and he knows this part of the Maine coast. Cleeves is a mileage man, he is strong-willed and hardy, and has a mostly healthy puritan 8
sense of progress, even when at leisure. I’m more of a smell the roses, spiritual, touchstone type of traveler. Translation: Cleeves is fast, and I’m slow. If this seems like somewhat of a mismatched partnership, you’re right. I’m not really sure why Cleeves hangs out with me. It’s possible I have a certain amount of entertainment value.
The Adventure Begins This was the maiden overnight voyage for my Nordkapp, a “British” boat. Translation: “This boat is very tippy, and has hatches you could cover with a hotcup lid.” My Nordkapp also has a “sea cockpit.” Translation: “Fat – Man’s – Misery.” The Nordkapp promotional literature says, “This advanced boat has relatively low initial stability, but an excellent final stability which is best felt when paddling turbulent waters.” I picture “final stability” as the stability a boat has when it’s upside down in the water. Once packed, our fiberglass boats were heavy, making the 50yard haul to the beach a chore. Maybe we had gone a bit overboard on the drinking water, but there is precious little on Casco Bay’s small islands favored for kamping (that’s kayak camping).
A protected cove on Jewell Island. Photo by Ted Scharf
But most of our gear had gotten inside our boats; the only things strapped to the decks were small water bottles and bright yellow paddle floats for out-rigger selfrescues. Here’s a short list of what we did not have: a 2-way radio, a weather radio, a cell phone, a wet suit, dry suit, or any neoprene for that matter. The weather was a bracing 50 degrees in the water and upper 60s in the air, but we were content with cotton shirts under life jackets. As we head out into Luckse Sound and on over toward Broad Sound, we see many lobster trap markers and lobstermen boating around. Between Bailey and Orrs Islands we cross a concrete bridge built of stacked slabs where guidebooks warn of strong rip tides, but all is slack and smooth. Once under the bridge we head up the ocean side of Orrs Island to cross under a second bridge with significant current against us. Our camp for the night, Strawberry Island, is another pretty little island, but with a fishbowl feeling from the windows of the surrounding houses. The tides make the area interesting and noisy with fish
slapping as they eat and get eaten. At low tide, the shallows and mud flats around the island extend for hundreds of feet, and we scurry around turning over rocks, playing with crabs too small to eat. We take a refreshing saltwater swim.
Trouble Brewing By morning something has changed. The weather is not fine, and there’s trouble in the air. We fight over coffee-making technique, my priority being strength of brew and Cleeves’ being economy of grounds. It’s an old argument really, one that sums up our different approaches to life. Later come more omens of bad tidings. From Strawberry we head down Harpswell Sound to complete a circuit of Orrs Island near the concrete bridge we had passed under the day before. It’s chilly, and out in Harpswell Sound the current is trickier in combination with the wind, so Cleeves is grateful for his rudder. I’m doing fine with a bit of skeg deployed. Although we don’t come right out and discuss it, we’re both thinking about the weather. We pass right by a lobsterman, and figuring they speak related dialects, I leave it to Cleeves to query the man. Cleeves asks, “What’s the weather outlook?” And the lobsterman replies, “Not good.” And we paddle on. I figure this must speak volumes to Cleeves. But when I ask, it turns out he had heard just what I had. We know bad weather is coming but have no details. We decide “conservatively” to keep going, and set our sites on Eagle Island where the explorer Robert Peary, of North Pole fame, lived in his retirement after seven expeditions to the arctic. The caretaker finds us in the garden and treats us a bit as if we were trying to get away with something. “Is the house open, can we have a look?” “On a day like this,” he replies, “of course we’re closed. I guess I won’t charge you. I ex-
pect you’ll be wanting to use the outhouse. Not a good day to be out in a kayak, but whatever floats your boat,” he adds. It’s early afternoon and we’re cold and hungry, so we hunker in the shelter of a stone doorway looking out at the ocean and eating. The wind and weather have not calmed, but it’s time to move on. We plan to camp at Jewell, a slightly longer crossing. Back down at the beach, the waves are now breaking on both sides, and there’s no telling what the tide’s doing. We secure ourselves in our boats, bows in the water, angled down to push off the sand down into the surf. There’s a tumble of a couple of feet where the high sand collapses into the surf-beaten sand. As I push off, the hull of the kayak pivots in a very odd-feeling way, out of control until the entire boat is free of the sand and in the water. We both remark on the roller coaster feeling.
An Ill-Fated Crossing In hindsight, I can see the classic cascade of one bad decision leading to another, finally leading to crisis. The weather was really not fit for kayaking. We could have headed in, altering our route or even cutting the trip short, but we didn’t even discuss it. We could have waited the weather out, but as it turns out the bad weather stayed more than 24 hours. We ended up in a passage between two islands, Jewell and
Cliff, which we were told to beware of. The book by Tamsin Venn, Sea Kayaking The New England Coast, clearly warned that big waves tend to focus off Cliff, funneling past Jewell, even in good weather. The first time I went over was fine, almost a relief – a good opportunity to figure out what was wrong with my skeg, which Cleeves had just informed me wasn’t deployed. It was a jolt to suddenly be upside down in the sea, cold, but not a time for panic. I actually got to use the diving knife I keep attached to my PFD, to pry free a smooth ovoid pebble jammed between the skeg and its housing. Now I wish I had kept that little rock. Cleeves paddled over to me for a buddy rescue, float paddle assisted. I burned some more energy pumping out my boat – most of the way. I was more frustrated than frightened, and now I was skeg-capable and skeg-happy and certain it would make all the difference. During my capsize and rescue we were pushed closer to Cliff, into an interesting area where standing waves were building. Large ocean swells cut in across the standing waves, creating disorienting patterns and currents that kept my kayak dancing. I expected to be able to just motor along now with my trusty skeg to help keep me on course, but it proved hard to (continued on page 10)
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RIME (continued from page 9) make headway, every stroke turning into a brace, the unpumped water sloshing about in my boat not helping. I took to cursing each wave individually, like they were personally out to get me. Maybe I should have tried cajoling instead of cursing, because one pushed on my port stern to send me rolling forward to my right, and over. I popped right out of my kayak and came up, losing my hat and a canteen. It did not feel good having two strikes against me.
Focusing in on Disaster It took Cleeves longer to get over to me this time, and I was very tired and thoroughly chilled. We performed another buddy rescue but my boat was completely filled with water. We took turns bailing. Getting half the water out was exhausting. My confidence had taken a beating and what I really wanted to do was stay raftedup and just roll up and down with the waves for a bit. But the constant wave action was making me sick, and the noise level was fatiguing. We had drifted significantly closer to Cliff. Along with the wind and loud surf, waves were booming against the eponymous cliffs of the island. I was close enough to see that there wasn’t any place to put in. Cleeves leaned over to shout into my ear, “Dennis, we’ve got to get out of here. The islands are focusing these waves… like a lens!”
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Even at the time I thought that was rather nicely put. When I went over for the third time, it really felt like the last strike. I wasn’t giving up my life, but I didn’t seriously think I could get back into my boat and out of this situation by my own power. I came back up next to my boat, paddle still in hand, but otherwise dumbfounded, like someone was not following the script. My sense of reality was fading. The wind and waves made a mist close to the water surface that enveloped my head. I fantasized about a dolphin rescuing me. I didn’t even go through the motions of starting a re-entry. I needed to be rescued. I worried about Cleeves and where he was. And then, what should come out of the chop and the windblown mist but…a stinkpot lobster boat. I grabbed the long metal pole offered to me and the lobsterman yanked me up. His son hooked my kayak by a deck line. We three tried to pull the boat on board but it was too heavy with sea water. The boy attached a line and we towed the kayak. The lobsterman had waved Cleeves off fearing he would smash him in the waves. I looked around and Cleeves was following us, apparently ok. I took a breath, I was alive and out of danger. My boat was even intact. The good-natured son offered me his sweatshirt. The lobsterman informed me that he was the last boat still out on the bay and that a real nor’easter was coming in, it would be worse tomorrow and no fishing. He didn’t say anything else, except to ask me
what I did for a living. He took my answer: “I work on information technology for a large biomedical philanthropy...” in stride. He towed my boat over to a protected inlet of Jewell and dropped me back in the water, Cleeves paddling the whole way in our wake. My boat was full of seawater which felt oddly warm, but the water was so calm here, that I had no trouble paddling to the protected rocky beach. I did not save that pebble, and I regret I cannot remember the name of the lobster boat.
Alive for the Post-Mortem I count myself fortunate to be alive to recount the story of my dramatic rescue in Casco Bay. But in some ways luck had nothing to do with my survival; the skills and strength of a good friend and the caring generosity of a lobsterman who didn’t know me from a seal are the reasons I’m around to tell this story. I have gone kayaking numerous times since this incident, but it was a humiliating and frightening ordeal, and that’s why I use humor to push away the gloom and adrenaline that rise whenever I recall it. Do not let my humorous telling trivialize the safety issues raised by my experience. We can all laugh now, but don’t repeat my stupid mistakes. I think it’s fair to say I had a
prolonged and nearly disastrous lapse in judgment on this trip. One thing we did right was to practice buddy rescues before the trip. We knew to stick together, how to help one another back into his boat and to help bail water. However, that was about the only thing I did right, and unfortunately those techniques are of limited value in confused seas. Most of my kayaking has been on trips with a heavily loaded boat or on placid lakes, so I never felt pressure to learn an Eskimo roll. The ability to roll with those waves would have saved me precious energy and body heat. My bracing techniques are ok, but have seldom been tested. I was a little cocky from many trips under easier conditions. We had poor weather judgement all around. We were inappropriately dressed for the conditions and did not carry the proper neoprene or insulated clothing to change into. Without the right clothing, we shouldn’t have been out at all, let alone attempting that crossing. Why no weather radio? I was on the road far from home and it just didn’t make it in with my other gear, and we were trying to pack and organize everything too fast anyway. Again, lame excuses. I’ve
mostly paddled boats with more primary and secondary stability than a Nordkapp. I had no business being on a coastal trip in my Nordkapp with so few hours in that particular boat. Clearly, the first line of defense would have been not to make the crossing under those conditions. For some inexplicable reason we never really discussed not doing it; I hate to admit that it may have just been testosterone. As the more experienced kayaker I put both of us at risk by not calling off the crossing. We even had read Tamsin Venn’s book carefully and knew exactly what she said about dangerous waves focusing off Cliff Island. Our eyes were not educated enough to see how bad those waves were from our distance. Once we set out and could feel how dangerous the conditions were and that my skeg was not working we should have just turned around, but once you start a crossing, it’s hard to call off that momentum. All I can say is follow the rules, not the adrenaline. This was a life lesson for me. I love kayaking and will not give it up. This was a huge message to not just know but to follow the rules, and to constantly work on skills. ■
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Work In Progress Perkins Restoration Gets Underway
Steve Freeman and Chris Hann tear off the rotting shingles from the Perkins Island Bell Tower.
The first phase of the restoration work on the Perkins Island bell tower is complete, says Leanne Dech, MITA’s Program Manager and supervisor for the project. The decaying shingles have been removed and structural repair of the foundation and sills has also been successfully accomplished. The final step of reshingling the tower will take place later this fall, when the new white shingles needed to finish the restoration are scheduled to arrive. Dech says that the enthusiasm and dedication of foreman Josh Bate and his assistants Steve Freeman and Francis Simmons, all local area residents, has been key to the project’s success so far. The tireless help of volunteers Chris Flynn, Chris Hann, Jon Lawton, Charlotte Lawton, Mack McPherson, Ted Scharf, Cliff Seymour, and Chris TademaWielandt has also kept the job humming along. Look for a full story on the project, which will include a photo of the newly restored bell tower, in the next issue of The Island Trail. ■ 11
CENTER SPREAD
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The View From Up Here
reached that point where I appreciate more comfort at night, even when sailing alone.
More Thoughts on the Perfect Trail Cruiser
Cruising Requirements
by André Bergeron Our discussion of the perfect Trail cruiser, which has already prompted feedback from as far away as Idaho, now goes international with this missive from long-time Canadian member André Bergeron. Sailing the Maine coast, to and around its magnificent islands for the last 12 years, has shaped my boat needs and taught me a few basic things which I would like to share. First, a good, reliable boat is your number one safety item on this coast. Second, comfort – what Richard Bode calls “a forgiving boat” – is what will make your experience on the Trail one to be remembered with pleasure, not with regrets. While Ben Fuller (“In Search of the Ideal Island Trail Cruiser,” Island Trail, winter 1999) focuses on the boat itself, Bill Boyd (“The Perfect Craft for Family Cruising,” Island Trail, spring 2000) starts his discussion with users in mind, and so will I, by asking first what kind of people use the trail
now, and who will continue to use it in the years to come. Then I will look at the Trail itself. A little demographics can help here: While more and more MITA members are getting old enough to start a little family, others already have, and others still are—how can I put it?—old enough to appreciate some additional comfort while cruising the Maine coast. As I see it, more and more members will look for a roomier, more comfortable boat for their stay on the Trail. Daysailors present an interesting alternative to the boat that is probably most responsible for the emergence of water trails: the sea kayak. I am in no way implying that a larger boat is necessarily safer, although when crossing large bodies of open water, or in colder seasons, this may well be the case. For the last 12 years on the Trail, I have sailed a small open dinghy, a larger, open workboat with a boom tent, and finally, a small cabin daysailor. All have proven safe, efficient, and fun boats. My family has grown, however, and I have
Sebasco beached on Strawberry Island in Muscongus Bay. 14
Whether you intend to sail solo or with friends or family, a good boat for the Trail should be as easy to trailer to the nearest boat ramp as it is to launch and recover. While many members live near the coast, very few actually have their boat in the water for the whole season. With increasing use of public ramps and docks, one cannot underestimate the advantage of a boat that is easy to trailer behind the smallest of cars, and that can be launched efficiently by one person. Wind is not only the cheapest, least polluting form of energy; it is also one that puts you in tune with the maritime environment, and one that can be harnessed using simple techniques and tools (sails, blocks and lines), as opposed to pure strength or motor power. Occasionally, the use of oars or a small outboard will come in handy, but to really enjoy the experience of the Trail to its fullest, it is hard to beat sailing. With sailing comes the need for those basic components, spars and sails. Whatever the sail plan, a mast has to be light, easy to step and unstep, even on the water, to allow for travel by road as well as passing under bridges. Large sails can be difficult to “set” and “reduce,” both of which may have to be done under demanding conditions. Therefore, simple sail plans with sails of reasonable size are to be favored over large, multiple sails. After all, speed is not the main purpose here. What distinguishes this type of boat from others previously discussed is its small cabin. While boom tents exist for all kinds of open boats (and they definitely make for great conversation pieces at every
Annual Conference), they will almost always let you down in a real storm, allow some bugs in, and take a lot of time to set up. A small cabin will provide you with instant access to dry storage space and room for extra sailors.
The Boat The beauty of this approach is that not only one but many boats fit the requirements outlined above. Small daysailors come in many shapes and sizes, can be purchased new or secondhand (a complete boat in good condition with trailer and small outboard can be bought for around $5,000), made of wood or GRP (the British word for fiberglass). Without going into specific names or brands, let me describe the typical daysailor: Length is between 14 and 19 feet, with a corresponding beam of roughly 7 feet (wider boats will be slower but roomier). Sebasco, my 18.5 foot Sandpiper, draws 10 inches of water with the board up, 30 inches with the board down. They have retractable keels or centreboards, which allows them to be sailed in less than a foot of water, and beached at low tide. Although Doug Alvord in his superb book (Beachcruising, 1992) favors a keel boat, I couldn’t go along with this choice. The Maine coast has too many rocks and ledges, tide is a constant concern, and having the option of beaching your boat just outweighs any benefits having to do with better sailing performance. Whatever size the boat, they all have in common a small cabin with two or more berths that allow you to sleep in relative comfort, ample storage (including room for a potty), and in many cases, some form of table or cooking corner. (Galley seems too much of a word to describe the kind of arrangements found in these boats.) Whether wood or glass, these boats are relatively small and undercanvassed, and most are just about impossible to capsize or sink. This is not to say
Bufflehead by Gordon Talley André has asked me to support his advocacy of a pocket cruiser as the perfect MITA boat. The right boat is the right boat for the boater, and small sailboats are not for everyone. Still, for those of us who grew up dreaming of far-ocean voyages, a tiny cruiser offers accommodation in more ways than one. Bufflehead, my shoal draft canoe yawl, harkens back to the hearty single-handers of the late 19th century. She carries me not only to the islands, but also back to a different way of being. Since I travel the Trail for a connection to the sea and nature, this simple, wooden boat delivers a large part of my contentment. Bufflehead also engenders envy in others. One of my most memorable moments under sail was beating up to Dix Island in late afternoon against an ebbing tide. In those circumstances, Bufflehead makes good only about one knot, so it was a long, drawn-out process, one of those times that reminds you that the reason to be on the water is to be on the water. Anchored snugly inside the harbor was a magnificent deep blue Hinckley, a yacht nearly 50 feet long. Its lines are a Maine classic. I was thinking how different my life would be if only I owned it rather than Bufflehead. For one thing, I’d be starting supper instead of fighting the tide. Then, the Hinckley skipper leaned over the rail toward me and called out, “Nice looking boat!” ■
that you cannot get in trouble, but even under the worst wind conditions, the boat will not turn bellyup or sink, even with serious damage to the hull. While simple and safe, some of these boats can be very sophisticated, with the additional comfort that comes with 12-volt electrical power, gas or alcohol stove, electronic navigation and communication equipment, and so on. The only key here is to know where to
stop: a common mistake that sailors make is to overburden their craft with all sorts of equipment that will in the end take away the fun part of sailing along the Trail. Again, the KISS principle (“Keep it simple stupid”), like MITA founder Dave Getchell would say. Take aboard ample knowledge of the area, recent charts, and enjoy your stay on the Trail to the fullest. ■
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The Eagle Has Landed Bald Eagles Poised to Come Off Endangered List by Sherry Ballou Hanson This past 4th of July, President Clinton was expected to announce the federal “de-listing” of the bald eagle from the Endangered Species Act of 1973. To the surprise of many, the much-anticipated event was delayed to allow the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service to make additional plans for management of the bird when it is officially removed from the list. Of particular importance, say Service officials, is the need for adequate habitat protection once the bird loses its endangered status. While the de-listing is not quite a foregone conclusion, there seems little doubt that the event will eventually take place. And apparently with good reason: a population that had dwindled to 20 or 30 pairs in all of Maine, and only 417 pairs in all of the lower 48 states by 1963, has rebounded handsomely, to more than 200 nesting pairs in this state alone. This magnificent bird, with its wingspan of 6 1/2 feet for males, 8 feet for females, can now be seen soaring in virtually every state in the union. Locally, boaters will see the bald eagle sailing on drafts above the Kennebec, Androscoggin and other rivers. No, it isn’t sun stroke; our national symbol is back!
The Fall and Rise Bald eagles historically ranged throughout North America, except
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northern Alaska, Canada and southern Mexico. Their habitat included estuaries, large lakes, reservoirs, major rivers and some seacoast areas. There were an estimated one-quarter to one-half million of the birds when Europeans first arrived on our coast. The population decline probably began in the mid to late 1800s, when there were also reductions in the number of waterfowl, shorebirds and other major prey species. Humans killed many, nesting habitat was also lost, and the downturn lasted up until the 1940s. In 1940, Congress passed the Bald Eagle Protection Act, which prohibited killing or selling the bird. But another sharp decline took place after World War II, when DDT and other pesticides were widely used. In 1967 the bald eagle was listed as endangered under the first federal endangered species law, which gave the bird protection below the fortieth parallel. But it wasn’t until the passing of the Endangered Species Act in 1973, in which the eagle was listed as endangered in all lower 48 states (except for Michigan, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Oregon and Washington, where it was listed as threatened) that agencies began implementing significant protective measures. These new conservation initiatives, which included a breeding program for the release of captive birds into the wild, together with
Back in the hunt: Maine’s eagle population has rebounded nicely in recent years. Illustration by Berry Manter.
an EPA ban on the use of DDT enacted in 1972, appear to be largely responsible for the comeback that has since taken place.
Implications for Maine What would a federal de-listing mean for Maine and its bald eagles? “Maine may follow suit in a year,” says Charlie Todd of the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, explaining that the state would likely remove the bird from its own list of endangered species. “But if we take them off [Maine’s endangered list] we undo 300 regulatory measures that presently protect them.” Thus, a state-level downgrade would likely have more of an impact on the bird and its habitat than the federal de-listing, at least here in Maine. With over 200 nesting pairs, Maine is doing well, but there are fewer than 20 pairs in all the rest of New England put together. Originally, all bald eagles in this state lived in Washington County, but now they are seen in all of Maine’s counties. From a strongpoint in Eastport they have spread into Hancock where they are doing “really well,” according to Todd. Franklin and York Counties are lagging somewhat,
while central, northern and western Maine are just starting to really recover. The slowness of the recovery may be due in part to climate and residual effects of contaminants, says Todd. The effects of DDT are now so small they are no longer a threat, but other contaminants may figure into the situation, he says – an opinion also held by Jody Jones of the Maine Audubon Society. Nevertheless, “The bald eagle is recovered, or close to it, in Maine,” says Jones, who feels that a combination of factors led to its success here. The most important thing, however, is the fact that “It’s entrenched in people’s minds that we want to protect these birds,” she adds.
The Island Outlook Islands are a good niche for eagles because of seasonal privacy, says Todd. During their nesting period (April and May) the eagles are incubating their eggs, and if they are disturbed and remain off the nest for more than 10 minutes, the eggs will die. The other vulnerable period is in mid-July when the young chicks are beginning to fly. If agitated by the presence of humans, they may try to fly too early, with potentially disastrous consequences. Steve Spencer of the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands says that some islands are posted against trespassing because eagles might nest there. Conditions are considered good for the birds on these islands, but some of them have seen no eagles for many years. “Our hope is that some of these islands might be unposted,” he says. However, it is probably too early at this point to know when and if that might happen. (Editor’s Note: For more information about nesting birds and how to protect them, see pages 224 - 230 in the MITA Stewardship Handbook and Guidebook.) ■ Sherry Ballou Hanson is a freelance writer from Brunswick. Her articles focus on health, fitness, the outdoors, and soft adventures.
A Day in the Life of MITA: July 1, 2000
W
ondering what MITA was up to this summer? In this newsletter we often focus on the big headline-grabbing events, but let’s not forget that MITA volunteers are out there taking care of the islands day in and day out, often without any fanfare or acknowledgment. Take Saturday July 1st, when no fewer than 16 volunteers reported back to MITA’s offices to let us know that they were out stewarding the Trail from Casco Bay all the way to Deer Isle, making stops at some 33 islands. Have a gander at what happened out on the Trail all on one day. ■ Monitor Skipper Don Parker (left) made the run of 5 islands in eastern Casco Bay. ■ Island Adopters Rick and Dayle Lavine tended to Little Snow. ■ Jim Williams, another Adopter, was out on Basin Island. ■ Member Brent Quimby (right) sent us a Coastal Island Use Log from Bar (Casco), which he described as “pristine.” ■ On his monitoring run through Muscongus Bay, Skipper Ted Scharf (left) visited 10 islands and dropped off a porta-potty on Crow Island in advance of the 4th of July festivities. ■ Island Adopter David Larsen spotted four great blue herons while out on Cylends. ■ Monitor Skipper Dave Ames (right) checked on the islands in the Muscle Ridge Channel, replacing several signs that had been torn down along the way. ■ Member Tom Hepp (left) reported seeing picnickers out on Birch Island. ■ Member William Haviland filled out a Coastal Island Use Log from his visit to Russ, reporting that a large D.O.T. traffic barrel had been left on the west side. ■ Monitor Skipper Bob and Co-Captain Marietta Ramsdell (right) made the run through Penobscot Bay, including their adopted islands, Butter and East Barred. ■ Adopter Bill Ridlon sent in a report from Buckle Island, where some conscientious lowimpact visitors were camped on sheer granite. ■ Jamey Galloway, an LL Bean guide on vacation with a friend, emailed that a group of 12 were camped on Hell’s. ■ Monitor Skippers Tim Emerson (left) and Chris Tadema-Weilandt visited a total of 19 islands in the Deer Isle area.
Please join us in expressing our sincerest thanks to these volunteers and to everyone who pitches in to support the MITA cause. We’d also like to remind members that it is not too late to send in your Coastal Island Use Logs for this past season. And finally, if you’re interested in participating in MITA’s Monitor, Adopt-an-Island, or Coastal Island Use Log Programs next year, you can find out more by calling Leanne Dech in the Portland office. ■ 17
Whither Conference? A Member Survey The casual campout format of this year’s free Annual Conference was quite different from previous years, which featured a full schedules of workshops, an evening meal, dorm beds ... and a substantial registration fee. This was a transition year for the Annual Conference, and one of our goals for next year is to rethink the event and come up with a new format. You can help in this process by telling us what you want in a conference (so that we see you all next year!). To make your opinions known, please take a moment to complete the brief survey below. Your completed survey will be put in a drawing for a free MITA hat and T-shirt on December 30, 2000. ■
Please add this question: Have you ever attended a MITA Conference before?___________ Why or why not?______________________________________________________________ Please rate each of the following hypothetical conference formats on a scale of 1-5, with 5 being the best: _____________ Full one-day event on mainland coastal site with workshops/speakers; dinner provided; fee _____________
Two-day campout on mainland coastal campground with workshops/speakers; bring you on food and drink; small fee
_____________
Evening event on a mainland site with keynote speaker; dinner provided; fee
_____________
Two-day “free-form” campout on Warren Island; no fee (this year’s format)
_____________
Combined mainland event with like-minded non-profit to share costs; fee
_____________
Alternate annually: a big “scheduled” event with speakers and a casual “free-form” campout.
Please rate the importance of having the event on an island. (1-5, 1=not important, 5=very important): _____________ Conference is traditionally held the weekend after Labor Day. Should we hold it earlier in the summer? July? _____________August?_____________Keep same September date?_____________ What workshop topics would you like to see? ____________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Other comments on Conference program, location, or anything else you would like to see at Conference? _____________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________
Thank you for filling out this survey. Please fax your completed survey to (207) 761-0657; mail it to: MITA, 41A Union Wharf, Portland, ME, 04101; or send e-mail with your feedback to mita@ime.net.
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An Eventful Summer
Special Thanks To Our Dinner Donors
Pea soup fog and a forecast threatening torrential rain weren’t enough to keep island owners, Monitor Skippers, Island Adopters and other volunteers from celebrating with MITA staff at this year’s Stewardship Party on August 23. Thankfully the predicted downpour held off until late in the evening, as the covered area of Rockport’s boat Club was just barely big enough to accommodate the overflow crowd of attendees! Guests were treated to a sumptuous spread of gourmet delights, all of which were donated by local restaurants (see sidebar). In addition to mingling with other MITA supporters and swapping Trail tales, attendees also honored the many standout stewards singled out by MITA staff for their huge contributions this season. Merv Taylor, Greg Barmore, and Robby Pawle, all Skippers in MITA’s Monitor Program, were recognized for going well beyond their “job descriptions” in their support of the MITA cause. Clean-up stalwart Lisa Kane, as well as dynamic duo Jon and Charlotte Lawton (for Above: Hannah Gignoux. whom we couldn’t Top: Peg Deutsch, memfind much that they ber Jim Dugan; Middle, don’t help out with) island owners Andrew and Gordon were also honored by Stein; Bottom, island owner Rob the group. And finally, Cabot and Emlen Tilt. Right: winner the prestigious Margaret of the Margaret C. Emerson Award, Chris Tadema-Wielandt. C. Emerson Stewardship Award, given once a year to recognize outstanding volunteer service, was bestowed upon Chris Tadema-Wielandt – a man whose contributions range from service as a Monitor Skipper and Island Adopter, to clean-up duty, to participation in the Capacity Advisory Committee and public Stakeholder Meetings.
Street & Co./Fore Street, Portland Roasted salmon with herbs Roasted salmon with molasses Roasted nuts Cheese croutons Beet relish Dill sauce Smoked salmon rolls Olive platter French bread toasts
Walter’s, Portland Goat cheese and herb dip Chicken and watercress paté
Aurora Provisions, Portland Wasabi tobiko with pickled ginger cream cheese on sesame crackers
Bella Cucina, Portland Polenta lasagne Focaccia Chocolate chip cookies
Bombay Mahal, Brunswick Pakora with onion chutney and tamarind sauce
The Waterfront Restaurant, Camden Baked fish
Ducktrap River Fish Farm, Lincolnville Smoked salmon platter
Borealis Bread, Waldoboro 6 loaves of bread
Izzy’s Cheesecake, Portland Cheesecake brownies
Standard Baking Co., Portland Scones
Big Sky, Portland Scones, turnovers, muffins
Port Bakehouse, Portland Cookies, cheesecake brownies
“Dress-Down” Conference Later in the season, a hardy crew assembled on Warren Island for this year’s Annual Gathering, a casual campout that featured very little in the way of structured events and more of what seemed to befit a glorious summer weekend in Penoboscot Bay: relaxed island fun! Of course there was some business to attend to, including reports from the staff on MITA activities for the previous year, plus a “member speakout” session where we discussed questions, concerns, and thoughts on MITA’s many facets and what the future may hold for the organization. Then it was on to a festive potluck dinner, followed by a
rousing session of Trail Tales, facilitated as usual by charismatic host and raconteur extraordinaire, Merv Taylor. ■
Editor’s note: MITA has some changes in the works for next year’s Conference and we’d love to hear your opinions. See the survey on page 18 for more information. 19
A Clean Sweep As of our copy deadline, MITA clean-up skippers and crew have already been out collecting a season’s worth of trash on islands in Penobscot Bay, Muscongus Bay, the western rivers area, and Casco Bay. Enthusiastic thanks go to everyone who’s pitched in so far, and to those who’ve signed up for the Stonington and Muscle Ridge clean-ups which will also have taken place by the time members receive this newsletter. If you’d like to participate in a clean-up next year, check the MITA events schedule on the back cover to find out when they’ll be happening. And make sure to sign up early, because there’s limited space aboard our
boats and they tend to fill up fast! ■
Clean-Up Honor Roll Please join us in saluting Cole-Haan of Freeport, whose funding has helped make this fall’s clean-ups possible, as well as Maine Coast Experience and Broad Cove Marina, who provided parking and launch access. We’d also like to acknowledge the significant commitment of time and effort made by all of this season’s clean-up participants, listed below.
Skippers Sam Allen Greg Barmore Chris Considine Doug Malcolm Don Parker Ted Scharf Steve Spencer
Trip Leaders Olivia Atherton Stephanie Deveau Jim Owen Doug Welsh
Crew
Rough riders: Skipper Doug Malcolm and crewmates Zach Gergely and Kevin Lomangino ride the chop after helping to clean Jewell Island. Photo by Mike Cooney.
Susan Alexander Craig Altobell Janet Altobell Roger Chopping Caren Clark Mike Cooney Laura de Does Lesley Devoe Miguel Diaz
Jim Dugan Jan Faulkner Monica Fischbach Edward Fisher Jim Flahaven Nancy Foran Zach Gergely Chris Hann John Higgins Lisa Kane Pat Knoll Sue Kring Patrick Mendelsohn Michael Miller Steve Minich Dave Morrill Margarita Navarrete Doris Newman Scott Scharf Becky Sheehan Jeff Strout Thomas Sypher Emily Sypher Peter Taylor Allen Toubman Barbara Trentacosta
Change the world you walk on,
Walk On Hemp
™
C a t a l o g / O r d e r s : 8 8 8 - 8 8 4 - h e m p o r w w w. e c o d r a g o n . c o m
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New Trail, Eh? Those plying the Atlantic coast in recreational boats now have yet another water trail option to choose from. July 1, 2000 marked the official opening of the Nova Scotia Water Trail, Atlantic Canada’s first water trail. Stretching between Lunenburg and Halifax, the new trail will promote low-impact travel, wilderness conservation, as well as waterfront services along the route. According to Coast Lines, the Nova Scotia Water Trail’s newsletter, the opening marks the culmination of 17 months of research, during which trail supporters collected and compiled data on potential launch sites, accommodations, waterfront services and attractions, danger zones, and ecologically sensitive areas. Still ahead, however, is the long process of establishing wilderness campsites on islands and other coastal areas accessible only by boat. Agencies that manage public lands have already been contacted, and now the trail is seeking permissioned access from private landowners. In addition, much as was the case with the Maine Island Trail, the trail supporters also plan to form an association that will build a volunteer network to help care for islands and other fragile areas. The first edition of the Nova Scotia Trail Guidebook is now available as a photocopied hardcopy or as a PDF computer file, which can be viewed using Adobe Acrobat software. The cost of the Guidebook is $25 Canadian, plus $7 Canadian for shipping. You can order a copy by emailing seatrail@istar.ca, or by calling (902) 852-3082. ■
THE MORE YOU KNOW THE BETTER WE LOOK! • Indoor & Outdoor Storage • Repairs, Restoration, Rebuilding • Fiberglass, gelcoat repairs on premises • Sailmaker & Rigger on premises • Re-powering, Electrical, Painting & Varnishing • Seasonal & Transient Moorings and Slips • Year Round Work floats • Suzuki, Mercury & Johnson Outboards, Sales & Service • Maritime Skiffs & Mirrocraft Boats • Home of the Maine Boatbuilders Show and Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum
PORTLAND YACHT SERVICES, INC. at Portland Company Marine Complex 58 Fore St. • Portland, ME 04101 • 207-774-1067 On the Net - http://www.portlandcompany.com
Wish List MITA needs the following items. If you can help us out with any of them, please call Tania Neuschafer at (207) 761-8225. Thank you! • Vacuum cleaner • 18’ or larger workboat • Handheld VHF radios • First aid kit • Power Mac or better computers and monitors • $$ or painter’s time/resources to repaint MITA workboats • Plain paper fax machine • 4-drawer filing cabinet • Camera, digital or traditional • Pro bono bookkeeping consultant with Net Books experience • Free storage space in the Portland area • Camp kitchen with mess kit and/or cook stove • Tool kit • Cell phones • Large canvas wall tent ■
Calling All Interns The Portland office is on the lookout for both summer (MayAugust) and off-season (September-April) interns to join our lively staff and help us wade through the piles of projects that fill our waterfront office on Union Wharf. During the off-season, we are in search of interns who can help us enter the island use logs into our database, organize and carry out mailings for a variety of meetings, and pitch in on day-to-day tasks such as filing, phones and photocopying. Summer interns jump into the fray of the busy boating season and help out with island cleanups, outreach events, distribution of educational materials, volunteer mailings, the construction of island signs, office tasks and much more. For more information about internship opportunities, please call Tania at (207) 7618225. ■ 21
The Holidays Arrive Early at MITA by Tania Neuschafer Just yesterday, amongst the buzzing voices in the office, Leanne startled us all and said, “What month is it? It feels like the holiday season!” as she opened a box of six newly donated Thermarest sleeping pads and two brightly colored and neatly folded large dry bags. Indeed, there’s a festive mood all around the office these days, and it has more than a little bit to do with the overwhelming generosity displayed by MITA members and friends. Just look at the tally of goods and equipment that have been donated in the past month alone! Sixty-four blank island note cards, eight bottles of tempera paint, six brand new sleeping pads, two dry bags, a portable easel, a large portfolio carrying case, and the pièce de résistance: a bright red Mitsubishi pick up with two MITA vanity plates! We know our members are amazing. We’ve known it all along from the numerous thoughtful letters and island logs that arrive daily, the captivating Trail tales you send describing memorable island visits, and the many smiling faces that frequent our offices. But this tremendous outpouring of support still has us shaking our heads in disbelief. The donated Mitsubishi truck exemplifies the generosity we’ve been glowing and crow-
The price is right! MITA’s Portland staff cheers the donation of a Mitsubishi Might Max pickup, to be used for boat towing and other transport needs.
ing about! Sporting its new “MITA” conservation plates and a shiny yellow plow, it couldn’t have been a better-timed “pick up” for the organization. The gift coincided with the start of our fall clean-up season, when its bed and towing power really came in handy. And so, the large and sturdy dry bags were used for our fall clean-ups; the handy portable easel and carrying case are heading out to a MITA outreach event; the Thermarests made many a volunteer and staff member happy during the Perkins Island bell tower restoration; our clean-up skippers and trip leaders are being show-
ered with exquisite island thank you cards; and our new supply of paints was a great addition to our outreach booth on “kid day” at the Common Ground Fair. To David Braslau and Yain Lu, to Dave and Deb Morrill, to Bayview Gallery and The Paper Patch, to Tom Myers, to Steve Kenny of Artist and Craftsmen, to Cay Kendrick, to Merv Taylor, and to all of you for thinking of us, before yourself, before Uncle Henry’s, thank you from the bottom of our hearts! Your early holiday gifts will continue to be put to good use in the months and years ahead. ■
Autumnal Office Assistance Please join us in welcoming Pam Tremblay into the MITA fold. Having sailed around the world as a cook on an 80-foot ketch, Pam knows a thing or two about navigating some wild coastlines. And, having managed the retail store at the Farnsworth Museum in Rockland, she also knows how to deliver solid customer service. She’ll be putting both of these skills to good use as she works the phones, answers member queries, and helps out with a variety of administrative duties this fall and winter in the Rockland office. Nice to have you with us, Pam! ■
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Coming in 2001!
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The Maine Coast Heritage Trust (MCHT), a state-wide land trust that has worked with private landowners and agency partners to protect more than 200 islands since 1970, is reportedly very close to acquiring this beautiful undeveloped 30-acre island (see photo below.) If the deal goes through as expected, the island will be added to the Trail and accessible for recreational use next year. We have been asked not to disclose the name of the island until the arrangements are finalized and its availability for public access is assured. What we can say is that this acquisition, if it goes through, will represent a unique and very exciting partnership between the MCHT, the Maine Bureau of Parks and Lands (BPL) and MITA. With MCHT acting as lead negotiator with the landowner, a combination of public funding from the Maine Outdoor Heritage Fund and private funding raised by MCHT is being tapped to purchase the property. The BPL will ultimately own the island, and will work with MITA to manage public access to the land. In addition to protecting a huge piece of wilderness and providing a boon for recreational boaters, the proposed acquisition is also expected to reduce recreational pressure on very sensitive nesting bird habitat on nearby islands. Of course there’s always a chance that a last-minute snag will derail the purchase, but odds are looking pretty good for a successful closing this fall. Want to find out more about this island and its many secluded pocket beaches? Look for a write-up in next year’s Guidebook, and for a full story about the acquisition in the next issue of The Island Trail. ■ This big, beautiful island may be added to the Trail next year. Look for details in MITA’s 2001 Stewardship Handbook and Guidebook.
Sea Kayaking & Sailing/Rowing Wilderness Expeditions On the Maine Coast
For teenagers: 3 weeks June - Aug. For Families & Individuals: 3-7 days May & Aug.
Wilderness Trips and Workshops for Adults and Families Canoe trips in Maine, Quebec, Labrador, Baffin Island • Hiking in Baxter State Park Sea Kayaking in Maine • Sailing along the Maine Coast in Traditional Wooden Boats Wilderness First Responder and Outdoor Leadership Workshops Canoe and Sea Kayak in the Florida Everglades Wilderness travel at a pace set to enhance exploration and appreciation of the natural world. Please call or write for a brochure of this year’s trips. The Chewonki Foundation, 485 Chewonki Neck Road, Wiscasset, ME 04578 (207) 882-7323 • FAX (207) 882-4074 • E-mail: gshute@chewonki.org
It seems hard to believe, after all the acknowledgments we’ve done in this issue, that we have still more people to thank for their support over the past few months. Talk about a nice problem to have! For volunteering their time and services to our Stewardship Party and Annual Conference, we’d like to thank Rob Cabot and Emlen Tilt, Chris Hann, Debbie Morrill, Ted Scharf, Bob Sergent, and Merv Taylor. We appreciate that Jim Dugan and Chas Jacobsen are on call to provide much-needed computer assistance at our offices, and we thank Hilary Williams for helping out as an intern in the Portland office. We would like to recognize the intrepid team of Hurricane Island Outward Bound trip leaders and students who constructed the tent platform on Hells Half Acre. We also thank the Outward Bound management, as well as that of the Chewonki Foundation, for allowing us to hold meetings at their respective offices. Sid Quarrier and Jim Dugan helped staff the MITA booth at Lobster Festival in Rockland, while Wes Crain, Jim Dugan, Jim Fusari, and Henri Gignoux did likewise at the Common Ground Fair in Unity. We thank the volunteers who attended MITA’s Publications Committee meeting – Bill Boyd, Lee Bumsted, Jim (yes, this is his fourth mention) Dugan, Bob MacLaughlin, Dorcas Miller – for lending us their opinions and ideas. And finally, this newsletter would not be in print were it not for the written contributions of André Bergeron, Bill Boyd, Paul Forman, Al Goldberg, Sherry Ballou Hanson, Dennis Liu, Art Paine, Gordon Talley, and the production assistance of Appleyard Communications in Portland. ■ 23
MITA SCHEDULE Winter/Spring 2000 - 2001 CLEAN-UPS. Each spring and fall, MITA organizes work parties to clean the trails, shorelines and campsites on the Trail islands. Everyone is welcome — with or without your own boat. Clean-ups are weather dependent. Reserve your spot early, as spaces fill up fast. OUTREACH EVENTS. In addition, MITA also participates in or is represented at various boat shows, fairs or conservation-related activities. The outreach and education arm of MITA plays an important role in the organization, and we are seeking volunteers to run our booth and to make presentations. If you can help with any of the events scheduled, please contact Tania in the Portland office for more information. CONTACT INFORMATION. To find out more about these events or to sign up, contact MITA’s Portland office at (207) 761-8225 or mita@ime.net. Jewell Island Committee Meetings Wednesday, December 13, 2000 and Wednesday, February 28, 2001 in Portland. These are forums that will explore the management strategies being implemented on this very popular Trail island. Discussion will include the new Jewell Island Caretaker Program being planned for 2001. Contact Rachel in the Portland office for more information. Maine Boatbuilders Show Mid-March, Portland. MITA is seeking volunteers to work shifts at the booth throughout the weekend. Volunteers receive free entry to the event on the day of work. Contact Tania in the Portland office.
Chebeague in Casco Bay. Tasks will range from material transport to pit digging to building of the structures. For more information, contact Leanne in the Portland office. Annual May Trail Trip May 1 to May 22, give or take a few days, depending on the weather. This is the annual spring sweep of all (or most) of the islands on the Trail. For more information, contact Leanne in the Portland office. Western Rivers Clean-Up Saturday, May 12. Contact Tania in the Portland office for more information or to sign up.
Stonington Area Clean-Up Island Stakeholders Meetings Saturday, and Sunday, May 19 & 20. (Regional ) Join us for one or two days with Wednesday, March 14, 2001, Portland. overnight campout. Contact Tania Wednesday, March 21, 2001, Rockland. in the Portland office for more Wednesday, March 28, 2001, Ellsworth. information or to sign up. These are public forums to discuss The Newsletter of the Maine Island Trail Association • island capacities and other management policies that are being exThe plored in an attempt to manage increasing use of the Trail. Don’t miss this opportunity to voice your opinions and help guide MITA’s policy-making decisions. Contact Rachel in the Portland office for Association more information.
MAINE ISLAND TRAIL
MITCOM Meeting Wednesday, April 25, 2001, Rockland. Summary of findings from the previous year, feedback from Stakeholders public forums, and laying out plans for the coming boating season. Contact Rachel in the Portland office at for more information. Little Chebeague Privy Project April–May, specific dates TBD. MITA is seeking volunteers to help with the installation of privies on Little
P.O. BOX C ROCKLAND, ME 04841-0735
Penobscot Bay Clean-Up Saturday, May 26. Contact Tania in the Portland office for more information or to sign up. Muscongus Bay Clean-Up Saturday and Sunday, June 2 & 3. Join us for one or two days with overnight campout. Contact Tania in the Portland office for more information or to sign up. Muscle Ridge Clean-Up Saturday, June 9. Contact Tania in the Portland office for more information or to sign up. Casco Bay Clean-Up, Saturday, Sunday, June 16 & 1. On Saturday we’ll clean Jewell, Little Chebeague, and Crow. On Sunday we’ll sweep the outer islands. Contact Tania in the Portland office for more information or to sign up. ■
Summer 1998 NON-PROFIT ORG. U.S. POSTAGE
PAID MAINE ISLAND TRAIL ASSOCIATION