King's Billabong Nichols Point - An Oral History by Mallee Catchment Management Authority

For thousands of years people have been drawn to and sustained by the magnetism of Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong.

For thousands of years people have been drawn to and sustained by the resources and beauty of King’s Billabong. The rich wetland was an important food supply for the Murray Nations’ indigenous people, and, as an important meeting place, a source of cultural and social enrichment. Shell middens, burial sites and scar trees are evidence of a life played out on the banks and around the billabongs of the Murray River for thousands of years. The ‘Billabong’ would become the lifeblood, too, of the white settlers’ ambitious plans to tame and cultivate the harsh wilderness of north-western Victoria. King’s Billabong’s role as a natural water storage, in combination with the elevation of the surrounding landscape, made it a practical choice for the location of irrigation infrastructure. It was selected as the site for the central water supply to establish the Mildura irrigation settlement – a crucial step to making good on ambitious plans for a thriving horticultural food bowl.

The settlement of the village of Nichols Point followed. It would become the location of some of the earliest fruit properties in the district, and the site of Sunraysiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first sultana grape plantings. It would host some of the initial hopeful steps towards a fertile irrigation settlement, and be home to some of the most progressive and determined of the industrious early settlers. Material for this oral history has been sourced from interviews with past and present residents and people connected to Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong and Nichols Point, as well as information from resources such as newspapers, historical records and documents. This oral history of the Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong-Nichols Point area is by no means the complete story of human activity in the region, but aims to capture the spirit and life of this unique environment and community.

Pre-European settlement

COVER Billabong Pumps, Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society. INSIDE COVER Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong, present day. Image courtesy Chris Woods. OPPOSITE Map of Mildura region irrigation settlement highlighting the Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong & Nichols Point areas.

Exploration and early history

River trade

Woodcutting and grazing

Irrigation

Business activity

Home and family

111

Recreation and community

123

Education

149

The environment

163

Sources

174

1788

“For thousands of years, the Murray River wetlands and floodplains we now know as King’s Billabong and Nichols Point were a bountiful and reliable source of life for indigenous people, who knew the area as Yerre Yerre.”

Scarred tree at King’s Billabong, present day. Image courtesy Grist Archaeology Heritage Management.

“In the long-forgotten past, the only light upon the earth (tungie) came from the moon (mitian) and the stars (toorts). No people inhabited the earth, only animals. One day during this semi-darkness, the female native companion (Koortinie) and the emu (Kurwie) were quarrelling. The native companion, during this quarrel, threw an emu egg up into the sky (tyrrily) where it broke upon a pile of wood prepared by Ngondenont, the Good Spirit. The concussion of the breakage caused a spontaneous fire which flooded the world in light. Ngondenont saw the advantage of the light for the dwellers on the earth, and thence forth vowed never to leave the earth in perpetual darkness.” The creation story from an 1883 account by Peter Beveridge of the ‘Dreamtime’ cosmogony of the Boora Boora, Watty Watty (Wadi Wadi), Yairy Yairy (Jari Jari), Litchy Litchy (Ladji Ladji) and Waiky Waiky Aborigines of North Western Victoria. For thousands of years, the Murray River wetlands and floodplains we now know as King’s Billabong and Nichols Point were a bountiful and reliable source of life for indigenous people, who knew the area as “Yerre Yerre”. The major identified group was the Latji Latji, however the related Nyeri Nyeri, Tati Tati, Barkindji and Mutthi Mutthi nations are also known to have been present in the area.

Anthropologist Norman Tindale’s national map of indigenous tribal groups (published in 1974) showed two major groups occupying the far north west of Victoria. The map shows Latji Latji (Ladji Ladji) country stretching from Chalka Creek, near Hattah, to Ned’s Corner, near the South Australian border. It is now also accepted the Jarijari (Yaree Yaree, Nyeri Nyeri) was also a major language group, and that the Wergaia, further south, also extended into the region. Early explorers and surveyors such as Charles Sturt (1829-30 and 1838), Edward John Eyre (1838), Major Thomas Mitchell (1839), Gerard Krefft (1865) and Peter Beveridge (1889) made journals and written observations that record regular encounters with Aborigines living in the area. “The Latji Latji were hunter-fisher-gatherers and appear to have had a semi-sedentary lifestyle. Early accounts suggest that the Latji Latji lived along the Murray River during the warmest months of the year, with people moving away from the rivers into the dunefields to collect food after winter rains.” Gerard Krefft 1865 The Aborigines used stories to explain their environment and beliefs. The following version of the ‘Formation of the Murray’ story is from the Ngurunderi people of South Australia, but other Murray River groups told variations of this same story. “In the Dreaming, Ngurunderi travelled down the Murray River in a bark canoe, in search of his two wives who had run away from him. At that time, the river was only a small stream, below the junction with the Darling River. A giant cod fish (Ponde) swam ahead of Ngurunderi, widening the river with sweeps of its tail. Ngurunderi chased the fish, trying to spear it from his canoe. Near Murray Bridge he threw a spear, but missed and was changed into Long Island (Lenteilin). At Tailem Bend (Tagalang) he threw another; the giant fish surged ahead and created a long straight stretch in the river. At last, with the help of Nepele (the brother of Ngurunderi’s wives) Ponde was speared after it had left the Murray River and had swum into Lake Alexandrina. Ngurunderi divided the fish with his stone knife and created a new species of fish from each piece.” The river provided a reliable source of food – fish, freshwater crayfish, yabbies, tortoises and freshwater mussels were taken from the Murray River with relative ease. The past Aboriginal occupation of the area that is now Mildura would have been heavily focussed around the water sources of the Murray River and its associated

The Aborigines used stories to explain their environment and beliefs.

wetlands. In the dry North West most archaeological sites have been found adjacent to water sources and as a rich resource zone, King’s Billabong and Nichols Point area, would have been a focus of significant activity. Aboriginal people in the region enjoyed a varied diet. They hunted kangaroos, wallaby, emu, possum, lizards, echidna, native rats and mice, snakes, and frogs. Plant foods included native millet, panic grass, pigface fruits, wild cherries, kangaroo apple, tubers, yams, roots and other grass grains.

King’s Billabong and Nichols Point provided the resources for tools and utensils.

“Fish were caught using fishing lines and nets made from reed fibre. Nets were used to catch waterbirds, whose eggs were also collected.” Gerard Krefft 1865 Watercraft were made from large slabs of bark cut from river red gum trees. Early explorers noted how the local people braced the bark slabs with sticks and then heated the bark to shape it into canoes. The canoe was then made water-tight with clay lining. Canoes required several days of work and much patience and skill in construction. Edward Eyre noted that a well-made craft was an important resource but would last only a year or two. Eyre’s notes record that canoe construction involved removing bark from river red gums during summer when the sap ran freely. The chosen section needed to be thick and free of holes. First a digging stick was used to cut through the bark to the hardwood core and shape the required size and shape of the canoe. The bark was then prised from the tree with numerous smaller sticks while being held in position by forked branches or hand-woven rope, and then lowered to the ground. Small fires were then lit on the moist inside of the bark, which evaporated the sap and made the bark curl upwards. The ends were then pulled together and stitched with fibre and plugged with mud. Stretchers were inserted to hold open the shape. After tying, the bark of the canoe was allowed to mature during which time it was constantly rubbed with grease and ochre. The low, flat shape of the canoes suited navigation in the slowmoving Murray. Canoes were used for fishing and river crossing. They capsized easily and required skilled handling. The canoes were often propelled by the use of a long stick. King’s Billabong and Nichols Point provided the resources for tools and utensils. There are accounts of the use of rushes for coiling into baskets and the indigenous people would use bark to make buckets and tray-like vessels called coolamons to carry food. In 1838, Eyre was intending to cross Victoria from the Loddon River to South Australia, but the dry Mallee forced him north to the Murray River. He made observations about local Aboriginal groups and their cultural activities:

“At certain seasons of the year, usually in the spring or summer, when food is most abundant, several tribes meet together in each other’s territory for the purpose of festivity or war, or to barter and exchange food, clothing, weapons, implements or other commodities” Notes of Edward John Eyre, 1838 The first contacts with explorers and settlers in the 1830s marked the beginning of a huge change to the lives of the original inhabitants of the King’s Billabong area. “Prior to colonisation there were approximately 250 indigenous languages spoken in Australia (approximately 40 in Victoria). Some of these had several varieties, and there were altogether about 500 language varieties used across Australia. Before settlement, indigenous individuals were capable of speaking five or more languages fluently. When two people met, they could identify the region each came from by the way they spoke. It’s a bit like travelling across Europe and recognising which country each person comes from by their language.” Victorian Aboriginal Corporation for Indigenous Languages The arrival of white explorers from the 1830s was followed by the “Overlanders”, herding sheep and cattle. Settlers then came from the 1850s. The impact on local Aboriginal populations was enormous. Squatter Francis Jenkins had intended to take up a lease on “Yerre Yerre” but agents for the Jamieson brothers pre-empted him, taking up several leases for pastoral use in 1851. The Yerre Yerre lease (known as “Mildura” from about 1853) was combined with other leases at Irymple and Benetook under the control of Hugh and Busby Jamieson. It appears from historical records that the Latji Latji became known more generally among settlers as “Whorlong” (Woorlong), after a senior Elder known to settlers as “Chief Whorlong”. The inevitable result of white settlement and expanding grazing activity was dispossession of the original inhabitants accompanied by disease and malnutrition. There is also evidence of violence and conflict between the European settlers and the Latji Latji. Within a decade of the first contact with Europeans, many of the Latji Latji were living adjacent to pastoral homesteads, often working as shepherds or engaged in other labouring activities. This change brought about the rapid decline of the Latji Latji population. By 1877 (the last year of figures available from the Board for the Protection of Aborigines) the remaining Latji Latji population had dwindled to only 15.

It appears from records that the Latji Latji became known more generally among settlers as “Whorlong” (Woorlong), after a senior Elder, known to settlers as “Chief Whorlong”.

Much had been learnt about local indigenous communities during the Germanborn zoologist William Blandowski’s 1857 expidition to research the natural history of the district around Mildura. Blandowski and his assistant, Gerard Krefft, established a camp at what is now known as Chaffey Landing at Merbein, and compiled documentation of 17,000 plant and animal specimens in the district. Blandowski engaged Aboriginal people to catch many of the animals he required. His receptiveness to Aboriginal culture resulted in a vivid, but little-known, record of Aboriginal daily life along the Murray River at the moment of colonial expansion. Among his collections is an 1857 sketch of the Nyeri Nyeri people playing a football game at Merbein:

Blandowski engaged Aboriginal people to catch many of the animals he required. His receptiveness to Aboriginal culture resulted in a vivid, but little-known, record of Aboriginal daily life along the Murray River at the moment of colonial expansion.

“A group of children is playing with a ball. The ball is made out of typha roots (roots of the bullrush). It is not thrown or hit with a bat, but is kicked up in the air with a foot. The aim of the game – never let the ball touch the ground.” William Blandowski. This sketch is the first record of any kind of football in Australia. “It pre-dates the first European images of any kind of football by almost ten years in Australia. Whether or not there is any link between the two games in some way for me is immaterial because it really highlights that games such as Marn Grook, which is one of the names for Aboriginal football, were played by Aborigines, and should be celebrated in their own right.” AFL Historian Greg de Moore. Soon after William Blandowski’s botanical cataloguing of the region with the assistance of local Aboriginal groups the interest in the Mildura Station settlement area would escalate. The Reverend Thomas Hill Goodwin was appointed by the Church of England in Melbourne to ‘preach Gospel to the Aborigines’. He established a mission on the Murray River at Merbein in 1859, with a brief to minister to the spiritual and welfare needs of indigenous residents. The mission covered the region from Yelta to Swan Hill, including Kings’s Billabong and Nichols Point. However, soon after its establishment, the mission began reporting that the number of Aborigines was declining rapidly. Language barriers were also presenting difficulties:

ABOVE Domestic occupations in the summer season, Blandowskiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Australien in 142 Photographischen Abbildungen, 1857 (Haddon Library, Faculty of Archaeology and Anthropology, Cambridge: William Blandowski). Image Public Domain LEFT Portrait of zoologist William Blandowski, 1860. Image Public Domain

“As there are between Yelta and Swan Hill six different tribes, each speaking a different language, and only the two tribes nearest Yelta being able to understand Marowra (the language of the Yelta group) I find it all but impossible to make them understand my meaning when I speak to them on religious subjects.” 1858 report, Thomas Hill Goodwin. By 1864, Goodwin was reporting gloomy prospects amid his failed attempts to introduce a prohibition on the sale of liquor to indigenous residents. “Every shilling is spent in drink. There has been very little attendance at the station, many days none. The river has been so unusually low and clear they have been able to spear large quantities of fish, and many of very large size, so they have been quite independent of any stores.” 1864 report, Thomas Hill Goodwin

“...there are between Yelta and Swan Hill six different tribes, each speaking a different language, and only the two tribes nearest Yelta being able to understand Marowra (the language of the Yelta group)...”

The Yelta Mission was closed in 1866 and Rev. Goodwin was retained as the sole missionary in the area. The local indigenous population at Nichols Point and King’s Billabong was further displaced by the development of the Mildura irrigation settlement from 1887. Early settlers reported that Aboriginal burial sites and remains had been found in the sand hills surrounding Nichols Point and King’s Billabong. In 1874, Kulkyne Station, (50 km south of Mildura), was gazetted as an Aboriginal reserve. Some of the remaining Aboriginal people from around Mildura were relocated there, and received food and clothing. Kulkyne Station continued to be a gazetted Aboriginal Reserve until 1910. There was also an aboriginal camp at Nichols Point around the site of what is now the Sandilong Racecourse. “The April 1901 meeting of the Mildura Shire Council…minuted its agreement to a request from the Protector of Aborigines to fence two to three acres opposite Gol Gol and to have four small houses built, as winter accommodation for ‘Aborigines of the station’.” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura “Those Latji Latji who resided on pastoral holdings, including Mildura and Gol Gol Stations, continued to live a semi-traditional existence right up until the end of the nineteenth century (Lapthorne 1946). This included collecting plant and animal foods to supplement station rations. At the end of the nineteenth century, Aboriginal people of the Mildura area camped on the south bank of the Murray River, opposite the NSW town of Gol Gol (Starr 1921). This ‘Gol Gol (Murray River) Camp’ is listed as

an historical place on the Victorian Aboriginal Heritage Register (VAHR site number 4.1-20), which locates it in the area now occupied by the Sandilong Racecourse. Aboriginal people who lived at the Gol Gol Camp included the last traditional Latji Latji clan leader, Whorlong, his wives Maggie and Peggy and brother Malcolm, German Mary and husband Henry, Jacky-with-one-eye, Euston Jerry, Mildura Jerry, Peggy Jerry and Maria (Starr 1921). Several of these Aboriginal people were well-known local personalities; Whorlong travelled to England where he was presented to Queen Victoria, and his daughter Mary Whorlong was regarded as the last ‘full-blooded’ Aborigine in the region (Hill 1937).” King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Plan Mary Whorlong was a well-known local identity. “Dad first met Mary at Kulkyne in 1919, and they were good friends. I have a photograph of her among big redgums down there, and Dad said he, at the time, wished he had color (photography), because she wore all the colors of the rainbow. Dad spent a month at Kulkyne in 1919 as he was thinking of going into partnership with the Thompsons of Kulkyne, and he walked the bush with her. In later days Mary used to sit usually near the fountain in Deakin Avenue, sometimes the next seat up, and we always called on her there, or where she was living when we went to town.” Mary Chandler Mary Whorlong is reported to have died on November 11, 1942, but the Sunraysia Daily recorded her funeral in March, 1943. “Princess Mary “returns home”: A few faithful friends of the late Princess Mary Woorlong attended her funeral yesterday afternoon. The cortege left the Mildura Funeral Parlor at 3 o’clock and proceeded to the Church of England portion of the Mildura Cemetery. There Canon Horner officiated at the burial ceremony, at the conclusion of which he thanked those in attendance for their tribute of affection and expressed regret that there was not a more representative following. A special feature of the casket was the substitution of a gilded boomerang for the ordinary name plate. The boomerang carried the inscription, “Mary Returns Home,” and a sprig of native flowering tree bound with purple riband, significant of Royalty. There were many floral tributes, including two with the names of 12 patients of the Mildura Base Hospital on each. The wish was expressed by these patients to see the unique emblem, the boomerang and inscription, which was shown to them by the sister-in-charge. The late Mary Woorlong had endeared herself to her fellow patients at the hospital. At Thursday night’s meeting of the Mildura City Council, the Mayor (Cr. C. D. Cameron) said many citizens of Mildura had known and appreciated Princess Mary Woorlong, “The Last of Her Tribe,” who had passed away in the Mildura Base Hospital. Councillors endorsed the Mayor’s reference to the passing of one who had been known to

A special feature of the casket was the substitution of a gilded boomerang for the ordinary name plate. The boomerang carried the inscription, “Mary Returns Home,” and a sprig of native flowering tree bound with purple riband, significant of Royalty.

many as a faithful servant, and expressed appreciation of his statement that although “Black Mary,” as she was affectionately known, had died without means, suitable arrangements had been made in regard to the obsequies.” Sunraysia Daily, March 1, 1943 Several years later the Sunraysia Field Naturalists’ Club began fundraising to have a headstone installed on Mary’s grave.

A 1994 archaeological investigation in the King’s Billabong Wildlife Reserve condicted by Vanessa Edmonds identified 24 Aboriginal archaeological sites...

“An appeal has been launched to raise funds for the erection of a headstone and sealing the grave of Mary Woorlong, last of the Kulkyne Aborigines. The Sunraysia Field Naturalists’ Club began the appeal. Mary Woorlong, who was the last of the Kulkyne tribe of Aborigines, from northern Victoria,died a few years ago. She was buried in Mildura Cemetery.” The Argus, August 15, 1950 A 1994 archaeological investigation in the Kings Billabong Wildlife Reserve conducted by Vanessa Edmonds identified 24 Aboriginal archaeological sites, comprising eleven shell middens, seven scarred trees, three stone artefact scatters and an isolated artefact, one hearth and one burial. “Eucalypt trees with scars possibly made by Aboriginal people removing wood for canoes, shelters or dishes are also well represented along the river. Other site types include mounds, burials, stone arrangements and ceremonial grounds.” King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Plan

1830

“Plans included a blueprint for fruit blocks and common land at Nichols Point and for a massive pumping station at King’s Billabong necessary to give life to the Chaffey vision.”

Lord Northcote visiting Nichols Point Pumps with Party, circa 1907. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

In the early 1800s, the Colony of New South Wales was only sparsely populated outside of Sydney, and little was known about the great interior of the country. There was much curiosity, though. The establishment of a settlement at Port Phillip (Melbourne) in 1801, and Hume and Hovel’s promising journey south from Sydney to Port Phillip, created speculation about what existed further west. In 1830, Charles Sturt and his party travelled in two boats along the Murrumbidgee River, launching off near Hay. Their aim was to discover the end point of the river. When they reached the Murray, they continued downstream. Sturt’s journeys in January 1830 took him past what is now known as King’s Billabong, Nichols Point and Mildura, and he is believed to have been the first European to see the area. The Surveyor General of New South Wales Major Thomas Livingston Mitchell, also carried out an exploration journey through the area in June 1836. He had been instructed to travel to Menindee, then either down the Darling River to the sea, or the Murray. If the Darling flowed into the Murray he was instructed to go up the Murray to the inhabited parts of the colony. Mitchell’s eventual route involved him travelling down the Murrumbidgee and along the Murray to the Darling. He then retraced his journey along the Murray, continuing as far upstream as the junction with the Loddon River.

While the exploration of the interior continued, the granting of occupation leases started in 1835. This gave graziers the right to run stock on Crown Land. The settlement of Adelaide in 1836 brought with it more incentive to find viable grazing lands and stock routes between Sydney and Adelaide. By the early 1840s, there was a scramble to develop runs along the Murray River from South Australia and into New South Wales (Victoria was not declared a colony until 1851). The reliable water and the access to saltbush country to sustain livestock through dry periods made the area around Mildura appealing. “Within a couple of years of Sturt’s and Mitchell’s expeditions, the route along the Murray was used to drive cattle overland from the colony of NSW to Adelaide. Joseph Hawdon and Charles Bonney were the first of the so-called ‘overlanders’, fording cattle across the river near Mildura in February 1838 (Hill 1937, Kain 1991). They were closely followed by other overland expeditions led by Sturt and Edward John Eyre. Overlanders driving mobs of cattle to the colony of South Australia soon became a regular occurrence in the region. Pastoralists brought sheep and cattle to north western Victoria soon after hearing the overlanders’ reports of land suitable for grazing. Francis Jenkins, a farmer from the Murrumbidgee River area near Wagga Wagga, swam 900 head of cattle across the Murray River near present-day Mildura in March 1847 (Hill 1937, Spreadborough and Anderson 1983). He established a camp there before travelling on downstream to Adelaide to register his claim on the land, believing it was in South Australia. By the time Jenkin’s claim reached Melbourne in September 1847, the land had already been registered to E.J. Hogg for brothers Hugh and Busby Jamieson of Murray Downs near Swan Hill (Spreadborough and Anderson 1983).” King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Plan The Jamieson’s 150,000-acre pastoral run was initially known as “Yerre Yerre” and re-named “Mildura” in 1858 (thought to be a Latji Latji word meaning ‘red rock’). The Jamiesons initially stocked “Yerre Yerre” with 6000 sheep, and there was some early optimism about the prospects of the station. “The storm on Saturday, October 8, accompanied by heavy rain, left a favourable mark on all the grass paddocks in the lower river districts. Grass is most abundant on Mr. W Jamieson’s Mildura run, and water is lying in abundance everywhere, the sheep-tanks ‘having about a two years’ supply, and the grass on the back plains is waving some two feet high. The river flood is still within four feet of the home station at Mildura.” South Australian Register, October 20, 1870

The Jamieson’s 150,000-acre pastoral run was known as “Yerre Yerre” and re-named “Mildura” in 1858 (thought to be a Latji Latji word meaning ‘red rock’).

Oral history suggests that the name ‘Nichols Point’ was likely used in the very early days of settlement. “Animals roamed the Mildura Station with wild bulls mixed in. Nichols (John Henry Nichols) was sent out to get rid of one. He shot it, but did not kill it. It turned on him, so he climbed a tree. The bull died, so he walked home, as his horse had fled. This happened in about 1847-1852. There were no settlers at all there.” Newspaper report of interview with Adrian Murray Nichols, aged 70 years, grandson of John Henry Nichols. In 1857, the German zoologist and mining engineer William Blandowski was sponsored with 2000 pounds to lead a scientific collecting expedition to the junction of the Murray and Darling Rivers. His brief was to make “investigations on the natural history of that district, and also with a view of collecting as many specimens as possible for the National Museum, and marking the distribution of animal life along the route”.

Blandowski catalogued 17,000 specimens, and collected indigenous names for the mammals, fish and insects, assembling a comprehensive word-list.

Blandowski was based at a site overlooking the Murray River at Mondellimin (now Chaffey Landing at Merbein) between April and November 1857. Although based at Merbein, Blandowski’s findings and records are a powerful record of the rich biodiversity at the time in the local region, including that of King’s Billabong and Nichols Point. “Blandowski employed Aboriginal men, women and children as collectors, and a succession of taxidermists to preserve the collections, while Gerard Krefft, second in command, managed the day-to-day business of the camp, and catalogued and illustrated the specimens. The zoological collections and illustrations and the observations of Aboriginal life are both rare and valuable, for the fact they were made at a time of significant ecological and social change.” Harry Allen, Australian Institute of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Studies Blandowski catalogued 17,000 specimens, and collected indigenous names for the mammals, fish and insects, assembling a comprehensive word-list. The records help illustrate the environment at the frontier of pastoral expansion, and include many species that would disappear from the Murray Darling Basin. “The Pig-footed Bandicoot, the Eastern Hare Wallaby, the Western Barred Bandicoot and the Bilby were driven into local extinction. Similarly the Lesser Stick-nest Rat, once abundant, has now disappeared entirely.” Museum Victoria record Despite the confidence of the Overlanders in the area, times on the pastoral runs were hard and unforgiving for the first settlers. Low prices for wool, drought and incursions of rabbits were among the greatest difficulties.

In 1878 the lease on Mildura Station was relinquished to Alexander McEdward. Shortly afterwards, rabbits began to infest the station in ever-increasing numbers, causing the once highly productive grazing land to be reduced to near desert. Drought gripped northern Victoria from 1877 to 1884. “By 1880 it was believed the three properties were nearly useless for grazing, but in 1884 a partnership was formed with the hope that with modern eradication practices, the land could be restored to productivity. This partnership was named ‘Tapalin Pastoral Company’. The control measures then available were unable to defeat the rabbits, and when the Commercial Bank of South Australia collapsed, the land that had been accepted as security for advances, was almost valueless. Pending a decision on what to do with the Mildura run, the liquidators placed a manager on it.” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura In the midst of the drought, the Victorian Minister for Public Works and Water Supply (later Prime Minister) Alfred Deakin chaired a Royal Commission on Water Supply. He visited irrigation areas in California in 1885, where he met George and William Chaffey. He was impressed by the brothers’ vision and ambition, and began discussing with them the possibilities of irrigation in Victoria. In 1886, the Mildura Pastoral Holding was forfeited in favour of ambitious plans for Australia’s first irrigation settlement to be developed by the Canadian-born Chaffeys. “The establishment of the large irrigation areas in Victoria is frequently credited, with what degree of accuracy it is hard to determine, to Alfred Deakin and it is often said that it was his visit to the Californian enterprises of the Chaffey Brothers that led to the creation of the Mildura and Renmark settlements. Undoubtedly Deakin encouraged the Mildura project, once George Chaffey had decided it was a suitable area, but just who can claim to have interested the Canadian brothers in Australia in general, and Victoria in particular, is open to question.” A Centenary of History of the Shire of Mildura Regardless, George Chaffey visited Australia in February 1886 and, following a voyage along the Murray, was convinced of the potential to establish irrigation colonies in Australia along the same lines that he and his brothers had done in California. The result was a grant of 60,000 acres on the Murray at Mildura, with the right to buy 20,000 acres at one pound an acre, conditional upon the Chaffeys establishing an irrigation settlement on the initial 60,000 acres.

In 1886, the Mildura Pastoral Holding was forfeited in favour of ambitious plans for Australia’s first irrigation settlement to be developed by the Canadian-born Chaffeys.

One thousand acres was set aside for the township of Mildura. Surrounding the town the planners laid out subdivisions of fruit blocks, mostly of ten acres, in what would become Australia’s first irrigation area. These plans included a blueprint for fruit blocks and common land at Nichols Point and for a massive pumping station at King’s Billabong necessary to give life to the Chaffey vision. The Chaffeys themselves took up 200 acres, including a large holding at Nichols Point, which they named Chateau Mildura.

One of the early prospective horticulturists was Captain James King, the riverboat captain of the PS Gem, and after whom it is believed King’s Billabong may have been named.

“The Chaffey property extended from Chateau Mildura in Irymple Avenue right back to Cureton Avenue and along Eleventh Street.” Henry Tankard One of the early prospective horticulturists was Captain James King, the riverboat captain of the PS Gem, and after whom it is believed King’s Billabong may have been named. (Another theory is that the site was named in honour of King Edward the Seventh; however, this appears unlikely, given that Edward was not crowned until 1901 and Queen Victoria had reigned since 1837.)

1850-1970s

As the settlement of the interior continued, the Murray and Darling River systems promised to be the inland highways – the most efficient trade and supply routes for stations and settlements in the interior.

Loading wood onto ‘Hero’ at Soddy’s woodpile. Image sourced from ‘Mildura Irrigation Settlement - The Early Years’, Compiled by Kaye Voullaire.

The Murray was envisaged to be Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Mississippi. However, little was known about its navigability. Overlanders driving cattle from Sydney to the new settlements in South Australia created enormous interest in the potential for settlement of the inland during the 1840s. Squatters began taking up the land particularly along rivers, and the first lease on what would become Mildura Station was granted in 1847. In 1852 South Australia offered a lucrative financial inducement of 4000 pounds to be divided between the first two laden steamboats able to successfully navigate the Murray as far upstream as its junction with the Darling. The era of fierce rivalry between the Murray River paddle-steamer captains was born. William Randell and Francis Cadell were drawn into the challenge but they came from entirely different backgrounds. Randellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s family property bordered the river and he was motivated by the trade opportunities paddle-steamers presented. He commissioned a carpenter to build a steam boat which he named the Mary Ann, after his mother. The boat was built at Gumeracha, between Mannum and Adelaide, and dragged almost 50 kilometres to the Murray River at Mannum.

Randell reached as far upstream as Lake Bonney early in 1853 but was forced back by lower rivers in April. He began his second attempt on higher water in August, carrying a cargo of flour and groceries to sell on the way. “The ‘Mary Ann’ measured 55ft long by 9ft wide. It was powered by a single 8hp engine and could carry 20 tons of cargo. The…boiler was made in the shape of an iron tank, square in section, with a single furnace passing through the middle. The side, bottom and top plates were bolted to the shell thus formed, sheet lead being used to make the joints. When in use, the boiler is reported to have assumed alarming proportions, and for safety sake, a chain was wrapped around its middle, wooden wedges were then driven in between the chain and the sides, in an effort to control the ‘bulging’. Even with the chain in place, however, when proceeding at speed, the sides and top of the boiler were reported to swell in and out like a concertina.” Researcher Peter J Reilly, River Murray Heritage By contrast, Captain Francis Cadell came from a marine background. He commissioned construction in Sydney of a 105ft, 40hp power iron steamer, the Lady Augusta, to take up the navigation race. He left Goolwa in August (shortly after Randell) to great fanfare, and towing the Eureka barge. The Lady Augusta had a distinguished party on board, including the Governor, Sir Henry Young and Lady Young, after whom the boat was named. Cadell also took along a party of journalists from Adelaide to document his journey. Three Aboriginal men were also reportedly on board to aid communication. After successfully reaching the Murray Darling junction, both Cadell and Randell continued on upstream, passing Mildura, Nichols Point and King’s Billabong in September. JOURNAL, KEPT ON BOARD THE “LADY AUGUSTA” STEAMER, DURING CAPTAIN CADELL’S VOYAGE UP THE MURRAY. [From our Special Correspondent.] Wednesday, 7th September 1853 The vessels remained at anchor in the Darling for the whole morning, the crews being engaged, with the assistance of a number of blacks, in loading fuel, while we amused ourselves in various ways on shore. Three gentlemen went out shooting, and returned with birds of every sort, eatable and otherwise. Among the former were ducks, teal, bronze-winged pigeons, parrots, and the beautiful crested pigeon of the Murray. The latter included a heron, a magpie pigeon, and a night-hawk—a peculiar bird which flies only in the dark, with its broad bill open, and lives upon small night-flies and insects. Others walked down the river and enjoyed a plunge into its waters, which, truth to say, were very cold, though their effect was

When in use, the boiler is reported to have assumed alarming proportions, and for safety sake, a chain was wrapped around its middle, wooden wedges were then driven in between the chain and the sides, in an effort to control the ‘bulging’.

One of them narrowly escaped drowning in a deep hole, and though by an extraordinary effort she succeeded in reaching the shore, she afterwards fainted.

pleasant and invigorating. Meanwhile some of the ladies had disappeared, and we heard of them afterwards in rather an alarming manner. It seems that they also had been led, by the warmth of the morning, to desire a bath, and, having found a secluded spot, at a distance up the stream, indulged their inclination. One of them narrowly escaped drowning in a deep hole, and though by an extraordinary effort she succeeded in reaching the shore, she afterwards fainted. Assistance being procured, she was soon borne back to the ship, where she happily fell into a tranquil sleep, and sustained no eventual injury; but this little accident occasioned us for the time very serious uneasiness... We shipped a quantity of stores at the Darling for Mildura, Messrs. Jamieson’s station on the Murray. The convenience of the steamer seems to be much appreciated, as the ordinary mode of conveyance by drays is slow and costly. We also took on board eight or ten natives for the same station, where they were to be employed as sheepwashers.We met with several settlers on the Darling, who were unanimous in welcoming the steamer, and in expressing their belief that it will be extensively beneficial to the Murray and its tributaries…The Murray, near the junction of the Darling, usually commences rising in June, and is at its highest in ordinary seasons during the month of October, after which it may be expected to begin falling, and to reach its lowest point in about April, at which time there is not in some places more than 2½ feet depth of water, and in a few instances even drays have been able to cross. It has not, however, been so low as that for these last eighteen months, and only once within the last five years. It was an unusually low season when Captain Sturt came down the river. For 9, or at least 8 months in the year steamers of far greater draught than the Lady Augusta would be able to get along with ease, and fortunately the period of high water includes that when the wool is ready for shipment…I have since heard that Sir Thomas Mitchell, the Surveyor-General of New South Wales, stated, some years ago, in a report to Government, that he believed the Murray would, at some future day, support a large population, adding that it would irrigate the neighbouring country, and become eventually the Nile of Australia. All I have seen and heard tends to confirm his opinion. Thursday, 8th September 1853 We were off again before daylight, and soon after breakfast reached Mr Williams’s cattle-station on the New South Wales side of the river. He was absent at the time, and his wife endeavoured to welcome us by the discharge of a small cannon, but was unable to manage it. There are about 1,000 head of stock upon the run. At 3 o’clock we anchored at Mildura, Mr Jamieson’s station, on the Victorian bank. It is a delightful place, the buildings are much superior to the ordinary run of bush accommodation, and there is a good garden. They had prepared a most hospitable lunch, to which due honour was done, and afterwards Mr Jamieson, his brother being absent on business, dined with us on board the Lady Augusta. All

the ladies and some of the gentlemen took tea with him on shore, and the evening wound up with a dance on board the Eureka, the deck of which, when enclosed and covered with canvas makes a famous ball-room. Messrs Jamieson have 10,000 sheep upon their run. The lambing has been good, and I am happy to say that theirs, in common with all the stations in the neighbourhood, is wholly free from disease, the stock being healthy and in excellent condition, shearing operations are just about to commence. Mildura is distant by land about 320 miles from Adelaide, 200 from Swan Hill, and 400 from Melbourne, to which last its trade has hitherto been confined; although of course for the future, its wool, as well as that of the other stations on the Murray, is likely to be sent by steamer to Adelaide. Messrs Jamieson have found from experience that the station can never perform the journey to Melbourne and back in less than three months. They are drawn by ten bullocks, the load being 2½ tons of wool to town, and a similar quantity of supplies on the return journey… The Murray at this part has risen now to within an inch of its height at the same time last year. It rose twelve feet perpendicular higher afterwards in 1852, and, its present height being only the result of the rains, it is feared that the stream will shortly be augmented by the melting of the snow on the Australian Alps. In that case another inundation may be apprehended, the effect of which will be most inconvenient to those who have built houses upon the low banks. As regards pasture land, the overflowing of the waters is considered to improve it, besides filling up the back lakes and other reservoirs of water, to the great advantage of the sheepholder. If, however, the water lies too long upon the land it is found injurious to the grass. I may here take occasion to remark that on the first occupation of the country the pioneer settlers estimated the value of their runs by the water frontages alone, their impression being that the backcountry was not available; but they have found by experience that the latter can, for the most part, be used for de-pasturing during the winter months. They are thus enabled to save their river frontage for the hot weather, and by thus economising their pastures, to keep double the number of sheep they at first supposed their runs capable of maintaining. Not only this, but the whole of the Murray country has very much improved wherever it has been settled, and many new kinds of grass have appeared. It is fast becoming, in many localities, a tolerably well-grassed country. The sheep are not only sound and healthy, but the feed is found to be fattening, and a trade, which may probably be increased, has lately sprung up—that of purchasing store wethers at Bathurst, and other distant parts of New South Wales, and bringing them to the Murray to be fattened for the Melbourne and Adelaide markets. Several lots have already arrived, the wool from which will be taken by the steamer, and other flocks are expected. I have seen a nominal list of the settlers on the Murray, as far as Swan Hill, who intend shipping their wool through Captain Cadell, with the number of sheep they are likely to shear this season.

Messrs Jamieson have found from experience that the station can never perform the journey to Melbourne and back in less than three months. They are drawn by ten bullocks, the load being 2½ tons of wool to town, and a similar quantity of supplies on the return journey…

Cadell reached as far upstream as Swan Hill and returned to Goolwa with a cargo of wool from stations along the Murray, Darling, Wakool and Murrumbidgee Rivers. Randell, in the Mary Ann, reached as far upstream as Moama. The SA Government struck medals to mark the pioneering of the river trade. Cadell was honoured with a medal but officials declared Randell’s boat did not meet the Government specifications for recognition. The pioneering efforts of Randell and Cadell marked the beginning of the era of expansion in inland regions. Cadell continued to be active in Murray navigation for the next decade, purchasing two iron steamers to work the river.

As the river trade grew, so too did the number of people employed on the boats and in associated industries. Almost overnight, wood cutting became an essential service along the full length of the rivers, and wood stacks were established near King’s Billabong to service the growing river traffic.

“From a Melbourne letter we extract the following passage: — South Australia, and indeed all the colonies, are indebted to Capt. Cadell for opening up the Murray, the results of which will far surpass any present conception that can be formed.” South Australian Register, December 12, 1853 As the river trade grew, so too did the number of people employed on the boats and in associated industries. Almost overnight, wood cutting became an essential service along the full length of the rivers and wood stacks were established near King’s Billabong to service the growing river traffic. Industries in the inland were expanding rapidly, but among the difficulties they faced was competition for labour brought on by the discovery of gold in Victoria. The demand for goods in the goldfields during the gold rush between 1850 and 1860 was helpful to growing trade along the river, but hopeful prospectors flocking to the goldfields created labor shortages on farms and at Mildura station. In the 1850s, inland settlement was still confined to areas that were within practical reach of permanent water, in this case, the Murray River. “Back in the tall 50s and well into the 60s not many stockmen ventured more than 15 miles in from the river, and cattle generally hung around the frontage. The great majority of squatters’ leases only ran out into the scrub for three miles. Dams were unknown, and only post and rail fences were erected…there were no glass windows along the Murray then. Most people slept on beds made of forked sticks with bullock hides stretched between poles as mattresses. The women folk used the same sort of bed. Furniture consisted of a few boxes and pannikins and tin plates were good enough for anyone. Boarded floors were not thought of. The tucker consisted mostly of salt meat and damper with no vegetables.” John Schell, Murray Pioneer, 1924

The pioneers continued to push for progress, despite the challenges they faced. Sheep from the Mildura Station were the first in Australia to be sent to market by paddle-steamer. “Novel Shipment - An enterprising attempt has just been made by Mr Hugh Jamieson, of Mount Murchison, to bring fat sheep speedily to Adelaide. Mr Jamieson, having chartered Captain Cadell’s steamer Albury, that vessel was prepared, and received on board at Mildura Station 650 fine fat sheep. These were landed at Moorundee last Tuesday, after a rapid passage of two days, all the sheep being in splendid condition when put ashore. We believe this is the first attempt made to bring sheep down the Murray by steamer, and no doubt it will become a favourite mode of transit for sheep going to market, instead of the long and weary overland journey of several weeks. We wish every success may attend Mr Jamieson in this new undertaking.” Sydney Morning Herald, July 11, 1860 The 1850s brought the introduction of the Australian Colonies Act, which allowed the colonial parliament to impose customs duties on goods arriving from other colonies. Inevitably it had effects on Murray River trade, particularly the region around Mildura, where three colonies were working to protect their interests. The river was regularly closed because of low water between Mildura and Echuca. This often forced produce from Mildura to be sent into South Australia and goods and supplies to be brought in to Mildura from South Australia. The duties that were payable were a source of deep resentment. Smuggling was rife, and the river captains and riverboats came under deep suspicion over their activities. “As an illustration of the Murray River navigation scheme, we may mention that a large quantity of tobacco from that source has arrived in Melbourne within the last few days, and more is on the road. This tobacco was originally shipped from Melbourne to Port Adelaide, trans-shipped from thence to the Goolwa, and then taken up the Murray by steamers and carted back to Melbourne, the difference between the tariffs of Victoria and South Australia allowing scope for such operations, and leaving, in addition, a handsome profit to the speculators. It is high time that measures were adopted to put an end to this sort of traffic.” Bendigo Advertiser, July 1, 1857 Droughts and floods were everpresent challenges at Mildura Station. “The floods continue unabated. The water stands at 1ft. above the flood level of 1867. It remained stationary yesterday. It has been blowing hard, and the embankments have been tested. The township is safe. Two thousand sheep have been rescued from an island belonging to

The duties that were payable were a source of deep resentment. Smuggling was rife, and the river captains and riverboats came under deep suspicion over their activities.

Mr Jamieson at Mildura by dint of great exertions. Much praise is due to the blacks for their services in the matter.” The Argus, August 11, 1870 “The water was fast approaching the back stables of Mr Pegler (Mr Bagot’s station), Ned’s Corner, and the men had commenced damming. The water was rapidly closing in at Bennett’s, and Mr Bennett being in town, Mrs Bennett with her family intend moving up by the first steamer to Ned’s Corner. The last accounts from Mildura (Mr Jamieson’s), was that the flood had reached the verandah sill of the home station. Up to the 22nd, the rise was at the rate of 1 inch in the 24 hours in Wentworth, the water being kept back by increased efforts, and by further securing the dams.” South Australian Register, September 29, 1870 In 1884, a Royal Commission led by the ambitious Victorian Minister for Public Works and Water Supply (later Prime Minister), Alfred Deakin, would mark a turning point for the development of Mildura and Nichols Point.

...Canadian brothers George and William Chaffey had established flourishing irrigation settlements at Etiwanda and Ontario. Deakin saw the potential and, on his return, pressed the case for similar developments in Victoria.

It would set in place the chain of events that would establish a horticultural food bowl at Mildura and Nichols Point. Deakin visited California in 1885, where Canadian brothers George and William Chaffey had established flourishing irrigation settlements at Etiwanda and Ontario. Deakin saw the potential and, on his return, pressed the case for similar developments in Victoria. Soon after, George Chaffey visited Victoria, also to scope the opportunities for the brothers to repeat their American developments. He viewed the fledgling Mildura settlement, and believed the region to be an ideal location. “We make much of the Mildura Homestead garden in that desperate drought of the 1880s, and the impression it made. But George Chaffey was really looking for Crown Land that he could persuade the Government to purchase at very little or no cost. And that had been his experience in America. You know - Go West Young Man! The Governments there gave very generous gifts to people who would build railways and open up new lands. That’s what he was after, and the Mildura Run was in desperate straits, and was in receivership. But I think the thing that excited him, apart from finding a suitable bit of Crown Land which the Government could make decisions about, was the existence of King’s Billabong. That ancient watercourse was about 15 feet above the summer level of the river. Chaffey rapidly became aware that this river had no locks and weirs and was reliant on rainfall from very distant places – they were ephemeral rivers. Sometimes they ran and sometimes they didn’t. So the storage capacity of King’s Billabong was really so critical to the survival of the settlement.” Henry Tankard

At this point, the Mildura settlement already had about 270 residents although the Nichols Point and King’s Billabong areas remained largely grazing country. King’s Billabong and Nichols Point were critical to the Chaffey’s development vision. The areas were about to begin the evolution into thriving settlements in their own right. Under the Chaffey plans, King’s Billabong would be the source of the irrigation water that was to be supplied to thousands of acres of fruit tree plantings. The Billabong was chosen for its ability to function as a natural water retention area for the Murray River, even in dry years ;– it would provide the capacity for water security, even during droughts. The initial work involved installation of an earthen barrage across the northern end of the Billabong to create a dam. The plans at Mildura were marketed internationally and across the country in what became known as “The Red Book” on Australia’s inland irrigation colonies. The marketing campaign created huge interest and visitors and potential investors were brought to Mildura by paddlesteamer. “Thomas Cook’s Melbourne office was promoting seven-day tours to the settlement, with a departure every Saturday night in August (1890). The cost of five pounds return included a first class rail ticket to and from Swan Hill, thence the tourist went to Mildura in the PS Ruby or PS Ellen, and was permitted to live aboard the vessel while in Mildura, due to a shortage of accommodation.” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura “In 1889 my great grandfather and his 12 year old son came from Melbourne via Bendigo with two horse-drawn vehicles. The father drove one and the son the other. They purchased 20 acres from the Chaffey brothers that year, and they lived in tents and helped clear the land for cultivation from that time. They had a family business in Melbourne and my great grandmother and her daughters continued to operate that until there was a permanent building on the place at Nichols Point, and that was several years.” Henry Tankard The huge water pumping system the Chaffey Brothers envisaged at King’s Billabong and Nichols Point was based on steam-driven engines. The system they developed comprised three major pumping stations at Psyche Bend, King’s Billabong and Nichols Point. (More detail on the water pumping system is contained in the section devoted to irrigation later in this book.) The system required wood-burning boilers. These had a voracious appetite for river red gum and black box, using up to 230 tons of wood a day. The paddle-steamer trade had already made incursions into the forests around King’s Billabong, and it

The plans at Mildura were marketed internationally and across the country in what became known as “The Red Book” on Australia’s inland irrigation colonies.

was clear, even in the earliest days of the irrigation settlement, that fuel sources in the local area would be inadequate. It was planned for paddle-steamers to move fruit by river to the rail head at Swan Hill, and then within days to the Melbourne market. However, the fruit harvest coincided with the driest time of the year, and low rivers prevented passage by boat on many occasions. Not only was the fledgling irrigation settlement experiencing difficulties with drought, salinity and poor quality rootstock, its only method of quickly transporting fruit to market was unreliable. The financial upheaval and the 1890’s depression resulted in heavy debts for paddle-boat operators. By October 1895, for instance, the PS Gem was mortgaged for more than 700 pounds – the equivalent of about two million dollars in today’s currency. “The inter-colonial duties were obnoxious, sometimes petty for everyone. But it was the duty on expensive items of plant that helped to cripple the brothers Chaffey. The duty paid on the Billabong Pumps and steam engine attracted duty equivalent to the cost of building the Custom House and staffing it for a year.” Sydney Wells, The Colonial Custom House at Mildura by Sydney Wells.

Not only was the fledgling irrigation settlement experiencing difficulties with drought, salinity and poor quality rootstock, its only method of quickly transporting fruit to market was unreliable.

Federation in 1901 resulted in free trade between the states, the end to custom duties and, as a result, the end to the notorious black economy that was peddled on the river boats. It meant fewer costs, simpler trade, and quicker river journeys, without the need for Customs inspections. “Federation was in the air, and conferences on the question were held regularly in all the colonies. The editor of The Cultivator seriously suggested that the Mildura-Wentworth area was the logical place for a Federal capital, and printed a map to show how it also should be the centre of a railway network with lines to Port Augusta, and proposed extensions to Perth and Darwin.” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura From 1889 there had been community pressure for the rail link between Mildura and Melbourne, and numerous surveys of potential routes – but no progress. “The question of a railway line was pressed by the settlers for years; was frequently raised in Parliament; was subject to numerous enquiries – in fact it was a political football – until the Shire Council and a group of determined settlers brought the Government to its senses at the end of the century.” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura The much anticipated railway line to Mildura finally eventuated in 1903.

“The Mildura Railway – Opening of the Line – Through passenger traffic on the Melbourne-Mildura line dates from last Tuesday, although the official opening does not take place until November 13. The timetable details that the train shall arrive at 4.10 a.m. but owing to unexpected delays, and also the inadvisability of coming over a new line in the dark, it was some four hours later on Tuesday when Mildura was reached. There were about a dozen passengers, and the train consisted of the engine T263, a Portland line sleeper – newly painted – a first and second “corridor” car, a couple of guard’s vans, three or four water tanks and some goods trucks. There was not a large crowd to welcome the first train, the witnesses being mostly school children.” Mildura Cultivator, October 31, 1903. However, the arrival of rail did not spell the end of the riverboat trade. Boats were still needed to move produce between the rail heads, and the Gem continued to ply the waters between Morgan and Mildura, working from handdrawn navigation charts. “Perfect in detail, it marked every bend, sandbar and treacherous snag between Wentworth and Morgan...Averaging no less than eighty feet in length, and eighteen inches wide, (the maps) were drawn with Indian ink upon single strips of linen. Every navigation detail has been set down, with later additions in different hands; flood warnings and low water depths, dangerous bends, land-marks, while station homesteads, woolsheds, pubs, woodcutters’ cottages are sketched in lifelike fashion, often complete with smoking chimneys. Sandbars and claybars are carefully shaded, sometimes coloured red or yellow; there are impressions of brush fences, distinctive stumps, trees, billabongs, reefs, snags, and other perils are marked with ominous crosses-in special cases with warning symbols-”F.T.” for an obstructing fallen tree, “V.D.” or “V.D.at low water” for snags more than usually dangerous. The first chart, badly affected by damp rot, follows the Murray from its junction with the Darling at Wentworth up past Mildura and Euston, to the point where the Murrumbidgee comes in, some 155 river miles. A notable feature is that Mildura is marked only as a sheep station, evidence that the chart was drawn prior to 1888, when the fruit colony was founded. At intervals along the banks are cryptic letters “W.P.,” denoting woodpiles where steamers refuelled with red-gum logs, creating a profitable, if lonely, occupation which has now vanished. Sydney Morning Herald, January 10, 1948 “She carried a tremendous amount of case petrol in those days – on one trip, 3000 cases were stored everywhere, and how she never went up in smoke amazed me. Large amounts of wool were loaded at Wentworth on the way down, and we’d pile on stores for down river stations until you could just crawl around. We stopped at every place the dog barked at – wood piles, stations, locks etc, catching a nap in between times.” Will Drage, crewman, PS Gem

“The question of a railway line was pressed by the settlers for years; was frequently raised in Parliament; was subject to numerous enquiries – in fact it was a political football...”

The severe droughts of 1914 and 1915 resulted in the establishment of the River Murray Commission. Locks and weirs along the length of the Murray had been recommended by a Royal Commission after the previous severe drought in 1902. From 1915 construction began. However it was not until 1923 that construction began at Lock 11 at Mildura – and it was not completed until 1927.

“The Murray River is very low. At Gol Gol it’s possible to drive a horse and vehicle across the river, while at Bruce’s Bend a man can walk across the river without danger.”

“The Murray River is very low. At Gol Gol it’s possible to drive a horse and vehicle across the river, while at Bruce’s Bend a man can walk across the river without danger. A large quantity of water is being released from the Burrinjuk Reservoir (NSW), sufficient to meet the needs of the citrus irrigation in March to reduce the quantity of salt water.” MIldura Cultivator, February 28, 1923 The system of locks and weirs was designed to secure the access of horticultural settlements to irrigation water over the summer months, and provide a more regular depth of water for riverboats. However, the belief the system would hold benefit for the river, and for riverboat trade, was by no means universal. “While the locks and the weirs were built they were hailed as the salvation of river navigation and irrigation. But it hasn’t entirely been the case. It certainly helped as far as navigation is concerned, but in other ways it’s also hindered it. Although it’s of course certainly helped in irrigation during droughts, because there just wouldn’t have been water in the river at all. Captain Bill Collins who tutored me on the river, his father, also Bill Collins, maintained the locks and weirs would be the ruination of navigation of the river. He felt they built them upside down, in a sense. The water goes over the top and drops the silt and sand onto the river bed immediately below each weir. If they had built them as lift gates or slew gates that would have scoured the river bed and kept the sand moving. Hence you get a situation where just below pretty much every weir on the river now you get a section that is very shallow.” Leon Wagner, riverboat captain. Improving transport alternatives from new train lines to wider availability of cars and trucks had forced further change on the riverboat trade by 1915. The PS Gem was the major boat still trading on the river between Merbein and the South Australian border, and the PS Marion worked upstream from Mildura, past Nichols Point and King’s Billabong. The operators evolved their boats into more passenger-focussed operations during the 1920s and this accelerated in the 1930s with the Great Depression. However the trade in general was in decline.

But the Second World War brought an unexpected change in fortune for the paddle-steamers. Oil shortages and petrol rationing saw resurgent interest in wood-based fuels and transport. Paddle-steamers, of course, didn’t require conversion and their commercial life was rejuvenated, to some extent, on the rivers. The paddle-steamers were also still required around the Mildura irrigation settlement. The huge demand for wood to drive the pumps (which continued to be steam-driven until the 1950s) meant wood-cutters needed to source timber from further and further afield. Much of the wood was river redgum and box, and from many timber-cutting areas the most convenient method of bringing it in was on barges towed by paddle-steamers. Donald Bruce and his wife Nancy were among the wave of early settlers lured to Mildura by the vision of a thriving irrigation settlement. Donald was born at Kilmore and came to the Mildura settlement to work as a fireman at the pumps. Bruce’s Bend was named after the Bruce family. “On Tuesday morning the wood and iron house of Mr D. Bruce, of Bruce’s Bend, Nichols Point was burnt to the ground. Mr Bruce, who is a fisherman and a very old resident, was absent. His daughter and friends were able to save some furniture. lt is thought that a spark from a fire place might have caused the outbreak. As the fire was out of the reticulated area the fire brigade was not summoned.” Mildura Cultivator, July 1, 1925 “OBITUARY: The death is reported from Mildura of Mrs Donald Bruce, who went with her husband to Mildura when the settlement was founded by the Chaffeys. Bruce’s Bend on the river was named after them. Mrs Bruce was born in Ireland 72 years ago.” Murray Pioneer, January 2, 1931 The decommissioning of the wood-fired pumps at King’s Billabong, Psyche Bend and Nichols Point in the 1950s would bring a final end to the era of commercial carrying paddle-steamers. However, they survived long enough to ensure that even as they reached the end of commercial usefulness, there was already some nostalgia about the grandeur of the paddle-steamer era. It allowed some boats to survive through the 1960s and early 1970s. Resurgent interest in domestic tourism brought something of a renaissance for Murray River navigation in the late 1970s. It resulted in the establishment of a marina at Bruce’s Bend and ushered in a new era of river navigation.

The operators evolved their boats into more passenger-focussed operations during the 1920s and this accelerated in the 1930s with the Great Depression. However the trade in general was in decline.

1850s-1980s

Wood harvesting was a great source of employment during the Great Depression of the 1930s. Mildura’s iceworks, the irrigation pumping stations, the hospital, laundries, even huge drying-stations to dry the clothing of men involved in unemployment relief work, were all wood-fired and steam driven.

Twelve foot high woodpile at the Billabong Pumping Station. Image sourced from ‘Mildura Irrigation Settlement - The Early Years’, Compiled by Kaye Voullaire.

The pre-European human occupation of Nichols Point and Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong had left the natural landscape largely intact. Towering red gum and black box tree stands with lignum understories dominated the riverine environment, while Mallee scrublands extended across the country beyond the floodplain. But as European settlement grew, land use practices substantially impacted on the area. Land clearing had begun with the establishment of Mildura pastoral station in 1847 but the earliest significant intrusion into the red gum forests came with the paddle-steamers. Their steam engines devoured between half a ton and two tons of wood an hour when the boats were fully-loaded. At the peak of the paddle-steamer trade, there were about 100 paddle-steamers operating in the Mildura area. A wood-cutting trade was required to power the river fleet on what quickly became the key trading routes of the inland. Mildura quickly developed into a busy trading point and large amounts of fuel were cut from river floodplains around Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong and Nichols Point.

The woodcutters lived in primitive camp conditions, basing themselves around stands of box or red gum. They cut the wood by axe and saw, and hauled it by horse and sled to woodpiles located where steamers could manoeuvre and berth, such as Psyche Bend and Bruce’s Bend. “They would have their camp set up beside the river and would bring the wood back in and cut it to the required length. They’d stack it up on the riverbank, and it was quite a lucrative trade at one time. Skippers tended to have their own favourite woodcutters, and they’d pull in, and if the woodcutter wasn’t there they would just take what they needed and leave a promissory note to pay them on the next trip back or whatever was required. It was often an honesty system. But if a boat was getting low on wood they’d pull into the riverbank and the crew would have to go out and cut wood and bring it back if there weren’t any woodcutters in the area,” Leon Wagner, riverboat captain. While riverboat trade at Mildura Station was brisk, the plans for an irrigation settlement set off a chain of events that would make Nichols Point, King’s Billabong and Psyche Bend the focus of huge infrastructure developments. It would enormously impact on the local environment. Under the ambitious Chaffey plan, water was to be pumped from the river via an artificial channel (Psyche Channel) to King’s Billabong. It was then to be progressively lifted through the King’s Billabong, Ninety Foot and Nichols Point pumping stations to a height where it could be distributed to fruit properties by gravity flow through earthen channels. Obviously the pumps would need to be steam-driven, and would have an enormous appetite for the timber supplied by the redgum and box tree stands in the local area. “Work in connection with the pumping station on the Murray River at Psyche Bend is being vigorously pushed ahead. The enormous engines of 850 hp, of which descriptions and illustrations were recently given, are expected to arrive as soon as the traffic on the lower river reopens and the preparations for their proper lodgement are being made. The engine foundations will consist of a platform of solid concrete extending the full length of the engine-house (60 feet). This will be surmounted by iron girders to which the plates will be bolted. The whole will rest upon a bed of concrete, 69 ft by 36 ft, and five feet thick, thus making a total thickness of 11 feet. Over the engines will be erected a house, similar in design to that on the riverbank fronting the town, but the dimensions will be much greater, the inside measurements being 60 ft by 27ft. These works will be protected and supported by a wharf built up to the high-water mark, constructed of 12 inch sawn redgum logs, having a solid front to the river, with wings extending back into the bank of the river at an angle

Under the ambitious Chaffey plan, water was to be pumped from the river via an artificial channel (Psyche Channel) to King’s Billabong.

of 45 degrees. The front of the wharf will stand 18 ft from the wall of the engine-house, and the intervening space will be plugged up with solid clay. The building with the protecting wharf, will, to all intents and purposes, be a coffer dam, in which the engines may work continuously in spite of floods. For the present, two suction pipes of 40in. diameter will be put into the river, but the engines are of sufficient power to raise double the volume it is now contemplated to lift. Some idea of the magnitude of the work may be gathered from the fact that the materials for the foundations alone will cost over £I 000. Mildura Cultivator, April 25, 1889 In preparation for the establishment, operation and maintenance of the pumping stations, the Chaffeys established a workers’ subdivision in what is today Cooke Street, King’s Billabong. Two of the original brick dwellings used by Irrigation Company staff remain at the northern end of Cooke Street. The first pumping plant that fed King’s Billabong was on a paddleboat, the “Jane Eliza” in 1889. Two pumps were installed on the boat, but it was an interim measure only.

Chaffey designed a system of water distribution known as the Billabong system: a complex series of four pump lifts to a maximum height of 92 feet.

“It was there for two years. I can still take you to some of the timber that they put in the river to block it off. A few years ago Henry Tankard was writing a history of the First Mildura Irrigation Trust and found where the Jane Eliza had been tied up – and parts of the redgum that had been placed in the riverbank is still there.” Peter Wharton Chaffey designed a system of water distribution known as the Billabong system: a complex series of four pump lifts to a maximum height of 92 feet. “King’s Billabong was just so important as a basis for the irrigation system. The system was really a number of stages. The 50 ft channel commenced on the hill just above the Billabong pumps where the water was conveyed on a flume on great wooden trestle legs. It delivered water from the Billabong raised by the pump and dropped into the 50ft channel, which really followed Cureton Avenue to Nichols Point Pumping Station where it was again raised ultimately to 90 ft. The main artery was at about the 70 ft level and that serviced vast areas out west of Mildura, and was really capable of servicing the first 50,000 acres that the Chaffeys saw as their first step in potentially developing 250,000 acres.” Henry Tankard The system was commissioned in 1891 and served a total of 26,020 acres. The area extended throughout the settlement to Koorlong and Cabarita in the west, and to the northern areas of Cardross in the south.

Together the four centrifugal pumps were capable of raising 32,000 gallons of water per minute. This system of pumps had a huge appetite for fuel. Woodcutting began on the box tree flats near Psyche Bend, but even from the earliest days, the Chaffeys and other civic leaders knew the resources available in local areas would be insufficient for their needs. To meet the pumps’ demand for fuel, each fruit grower spent two weeks in a roster system cutting wood to fire the boilers. Even before the Chaffey pumps arrived at Psyche Bend, it was reported that up to 10,000 tons of timber had been stockpiled in the five-foot lengths required by the pumps. “You look at the enormous volumes of wood that were required. Risbeys Sawmill operated in Mildura itself, but nearly everything they needed, culverts, bulkheads, sluice boxes was made from redgum. There were short pieces of redgum that dropped into concrete slots in an exit box out of the channel. When you wanted to shut the water off you put the boards fully down and filled it full of mud and it sealed. You could regulate the water by having different widths of board. That was generally the water-ganger’s job. The significance of wood for everything that was built was enormous.” Henry Tankard The woodcutters initially harvested whole trees, but soon realised that, if box trees were managed correctly, they could regenerate. Workers then focussed on farming the natural box tree stands. A punt was built in the early 20th century and would run between Trentham Cliffs and Psyche Bend for more than 50 years. It allowed wood to be brought in from New South Wales forests. (A second punt was also installed some distance upstream of the site of the current Mildura bridge.) FIREWOOD. The Firewood and Pumps Committee had provisionally accepted tenders for Nos. 9 and 10 and the Deakin Avenue traction engine, and recommended that no others be accepted, but that separate tenders be called for cutting and carting with the use of a punt. There was a long discussion on this and various letters read, and in view of the fact that the timbered area in N.S.W. formerly known as the Gol Gol Common is now open to cutters, it was decided to adopt the Committee’s recommendations. A couple of offers to cut red-gum lying near the Billabong and Psyche Bend were referred to the Firewood Committee, who were empowered to act. The total quantity of firewood required for the season, in addition to the stock in hand is 10,585 tons. Mildura Cultivator, May 11, 1901

To meet the pumps’ demand for fuel, each fruit grower spent two weeks in a roster system cutting wood to fire the boilers.

“A party of German farmers, comprising 24 persons, with 10 wagons and 40 horses, crossed from Victoria by the Mildura punt, intending to settle in the Temora district.” The Grenfell Record, March 3, 1906 The demand for wood to feed the pumps soon required the timber cutters to move even further afield to feed the pumps, and wood was being brought in along the river on barges towed behind paddle-steamers. Large truckloads of timber were also brought in via the punt. “You could wind it across by hand – crank it across if you couldn’t get the motor to go. Old man Collins lived on the Paddlsteamer Pyap there. When the roads improved and the pumps were electrified and didn’t need five foot logs of wood any more, then it was only there to service local cars. The need wasn’t there and it probably closed down about the same time as the pumps went electric. In my memory it was the last significantly active punt in the district.” Barry Kilpatrick

Timber brought in by both punt and barge was moved across the box flats to the pumps with the aid of a horse tramway from 1906.

Timber brought in by both punt and barge was moved across the box flats to the pumps with the aid of a horse tramway from 1906. Wood was unloaded from the paddle-steamer barges at Bruce’s Bend to the Billabong Pumps. Another spur-line was used to move the timber to the Nichols Point pump. It’s believed another small section of tram line was also installed at Psyche Bend to move wood from the punt and barges to the boilers there. “As the population increased the only source of heating etc was firewood. So as they extended the settlement, the firewood got further and further out. So they had to go looking further afield. The FMIT reported in 1898 for a proposed loan for work to put in the tram lines – so they were thinking of doing something about extra firewood very early in the piece. There was huge demand from the pumps because of the staged-lift that was needed to irrigate.” Ian Hinks “That big area of vacant land at Bruce’s Bend where the boats pull in now (on the left between Cureton Avenue and the Bruce’s Bend Marina) – that was what they called the wood landing, where the wood used to come in. The wood used to come down on a barge from Karadoc and Nangiloc and they would cut it up at the landing with an axe. Nancarrow had six horses and six trolleys and he would tow the wood up from there to the Billabong pumps and then unload it there and make wood stacks from it, and then they would just drag it into the pumps when they wanted it.” Gordon Smith “The barge would come in and load the wood onto these little trollies and that would go up to First Street and split and one used to go around to the

King’s Billabong pumps there and the other one go around to the Nichols Point pumps. They used six horses to drag the loaded trollies. In 1930 we had the floods, then in 1936 the railway lines were all removed.” Ray Smith “A lot of the little train dolly things that used to be there, I can remember seeing blockies using them for carting fruit around their drying greens and so on.” Brian Munroe The pumps provided fruit blocks with four scheduled irrigations a year. “The firewood returns for the second irrigation showed that the Psyche Bend engines worked 432 hours on 510 tons of wood. The Billabong engines used 909 tons of firewood, the rate of consumption being 28 tons per day for 294 days with four pumps and 13 tons per day for 6 days with two pumps. The Nichols Point centrifugal used 582 tons of wood in 29 and a half days. The total consumption was 2832 tons in 35 and a half days when going full speed. Mr Tait gave a list of items required preparatory to starting the work of cutting up big timber. It is proposed to use blasting powder, a four-ton Trewella jack and cross-cut saws and (if permission can be obtained from the New South Wales authorities) a start will be made opposite Bruce’s Bend and Psyche Bend. Mildura Cultivator, January 1910 In 1908 the irrigation trust installed derricks or cranes at Psyche Bend and Bruce’s Bend to assist with the loading and unloading of the barges. “They sometimes used what they called crane trees – an actual tree was used to set up a jib (a projecting crane arm at right-angle to the trunk) to lift wood from the barges onto the horse-drawn trollies. Remains of the actual crane tree are still at Psyche Bend and you can still see some pegs remaining in the trunk. There is a sign and a photo at the site there of a crane tree operating, but it doesn’t look like the same tree. We have a copy of that same photo that is labelled Bruce’s Bend and the crane structure and the picture itself looks more like a pole, and from that and the trees in the background, we think the picture is probably actually of the Bruce’s Bend crane.” Ian and Jean Hinks “The FMIT owned its own steamer and barges at one stage for delivering wood to the pumps. And if you go to Bruce’s Bend now you can find some cables in gum trees that are at the site of the steam-powered derrick that would lift the great bundles of wood from the barges in big slings. The cables that are there were used to stabilise the derrick.” Henry Tankard

“The barge would come in and load the wood onto these little trollies and that would go up to First Street and split and one used to go around to the King’s Billabong pumps there and the other one go around to the Nichols Point pumps. They used six horses to drag the loaded trollies.”

“When I was volunteering at the Psyche Pumps a few years back after the restoration of the pumps there, we had an old guy come in one day and he said his first job out of school as a 14 year old was on the barges that used to go up the river and collect up the timber left on the riverbank by the timber-cutters. He said they used to lug the timber onto the boat one log at a time, and when they got down to Psyche they used to have a crane that lifted it off. He said at the very first opportunity he got another job!” Maurie Wedlake “The tram lines ran between the stacks, as well as coming in from the crane trees. There used to be a turntable, which was still down there, until quite recently. Every time they took a load of wood there was four ton on it, there were four four-wheeled wagons, each with a ton on them, drawn by six horses. ” Ian Hinks In 1914 the Victorian Government gazetted 5700 acres of King’s Billabong as a sanctuary. However, this appeared to have little effect on timber-cutting activity in the area:

“...we had an old guy come in one day and he said his first job out of school as a 14 year old was on the barges that used to go up the river and collect up the timber left on the riverbank by the timber-cutters... ...He said at the very first opportunity he got another job!”

“The 5700 acres comprising the King’s Billabong have been proclaimed a sanctuary for wild game. The proclamation was made some four years ago (about December 1914) but has been forgotten by many and was never made known to others.” Mildura Cultivator, March 5, 1919 Trees continued to be extensively felled at King’s Billabong and the adjacent river frontage to supply fuel and timber. Men were employed at the pumps as engine drivers, firemen and wood wheelers, whose job it was to take wood from the stacks to the pumps to ensure there was always enough to supply the pumps for 24 hours. “There must have been hundreds of people servicing the pumps. You had the woodcutters out there cutting the wood, people carting it down on the paddleboats and then people carting it up to the pumps, then people stacking it. I can still remember clambering all over those woodpiles. I think back now about how dangerous it was – if one had have slipped the whole lot would have gone and we would have been crushed to death. But we used to climb all over them.” Brian Munroe The timber collecting and work was, in many ways, a hazardous business. Fatalities and injuries were common. “A drowning incident occurred at Bruce’s Bend on the Murray River this morning. The victim being Arthur McGlashan, an employee of the Mildura Irrigation Trust. McGlashan was engaged with other men, unloading

wood from a barge when, according to the statement of his companions, he jumped overboard in order to avoid a sling loaded with wood, which would otherwise have struck him. McGlashan was immediately swept away by the swirling currents which exist in the vicinity when the river is rising. His cries of help were answered by his companions, who threw him a line which failed to reach him. Immediately after, McGlashan was drawn under the water by the current, and was not seen alive again. Police and others began dragging for the body, which was recovered late in the afternoon.” The Argus, August 19, 1922 “Big Fire at Bruce’s Bend Wood Stacks: A THOUSAND TONS CONSUMED Much excitement was caused by the ringing of the fire bell at about 10 p.m, last Wednesday night. It was then found that a fire had broken out at the Bruce’s Bend wood stacks at between 5 p.m and 8 p.m. and that despite local effort was getting beyond control, though fortunately working against the wind. Mr H. P. Thomson, Chairman of the Irrigation Trust, was at Wonderland when the news of the fire came, and immediately had the fire bell rung and despatched 20 men with fire-fighting apparatus. In the meantime excellent work had been done by Coms. Kelly and Lochhead, Messrs Hutchinson, Steedman and others in an attempt to save the great bulk of the stacks, but in spite of all efforts it is estimated that something like 1000 tons out of the 4000 stacked at the Bend were destroyed. The first to arrive at the scene of the fire were Messrs J. Dowley and Edwin Roberts who, with judgment, selected the right place to start saving wood and make a safety break. These two gentlemen behaved splendidly. There are many stories of gallant work and kindly effort to help. Com. Kelly fought right through the night and went home done up, and others did the same, and the special thanks of everybody engaged in the fire-fighting goes to Mesdames Roberts, McRoberts and Hargreaves who brought supplies of tea along and served hot tea throughout the night for 50 men. There is also pretty story of an engineer’s wife and a little girl named Bruce who kept water bags full. There was apparently fine work all round, old men and young shifting wood and handling the manual pumping engine. Several fine horses also deserve credit for marking up close to the fire. Thursday afternoon, when a “Cultivator” representative visited the scene the stacks that were burned were big heaps of darkening coals and though the manual was being worked hard, drawing water from Mr Tom Wilkinson’s flume, danger to the saved stacks seemed over unless a high south wind rose. Officials of the Trust were just leaving for a rest. Thursday evening, however, the fire bell was rung again calling for aid as the wind had risen and the saved stacks were endangered. Very shortly all sorts of vehicles were on their way. When the “Cultivator” representative got out again the coals of the burnt stack had become a glowing mass and excellent work had been done in running a ditch from the Wilkinson flume close up to the stacks, the manual engine having been shifted close up to the fire. The

“It was then found that a fire had broken out at the Bruce’s Bend wood stacks... ...but in spite of all efforts it is estimated that something like 1000 tons out of the 4000 stacked at the Bend were destroyed.”

ABOVE Small rail trolleys were used for carting wood into the pump boilers. Rail trolleys were used from the 1890s through to the 1950s. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society. RIGHT Irrigation channel at Nichols Point Pumping Station, circa 1900. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

scene was a lively one and a vast concourse of helpers and onlookers being present. The situation was again saved, however, by a wider lane having been made between the fire and the saved stacks. Great credit is due to the Mildura Fire Brigade for strenuous work. Chaffey, upon hearing of the fire from Com. H. P. Thomson Chairman of the Trust, is sincere in his appreciation of all who helped save the main body of the wood stacks and says it has taught the Trust a lesson to hereafter stack wood in smaller individual stacks fairly apart. At time of writing no one seemed to know the origin of the fire but it is mostly attributed to careless picnickers. It is expected that the ashes of the burnt stacks will remain hot for some time, and arrangements were being made on Thursday to get a Blackstone engine going for the hose work, another engine brought to the scene having failed. Financial loss would seem to be between £600 and £700.” Mildura Cultivator, Jan 4, 1919 The building of the original Mildura Bridge began in 1925 and was completed in 1927. But the punt at Psyche Bend continued to be integral to the operation of the irrigation pumping system. “There used to be the punt come across down around from Psyche. Trentham Cliffs is across the river. Before you got to Trentham you would go down the hill and come across the punt. And that’s where they would bring all the wood for the Billabong and Psyche Pumps. Then they would go right around the other way to take the wood for the hospital and the abattoirs.” Ray Smith Wood harvesting provided a great source of employment during the Great Depression of the 1930s. Mildura’s iceworks, the irrigation pumping stations, the hospital, laundries, even huge drying stations to dry the clothing of men involved in unemployment relief work, were all wood-fired and steam-driven. “There was a lot of wood cut and taken for the pumps. There were stacks down there 2-3 metres wide, 3 metres high, 50 metres long. There would have been half a dozen stacks like that down at Psyche, there would have been the same at Nichols Point and King’s Billabong Pumphouse, plus what they cut for the paddleboats earlier. There would have been a heck of a lot of wood cut out of there. Also people would just go down there and cut posts for vineyards and so on. The forestry ranger would go around with his horse and gig, and he would mark a forestry crown on the tree, so that meant that tree was allowed to be cut.” Alec Hawtin Rationing during the war meant the punt continued to be used as a fuel-saving measure, to move wood to the pumps after it was sourced from as far away as Euston.

The building of the original Mildura Bridge began in 1925 and was completed in 1927. But the punt at Psyche Bend continued to be integral to the operation of the irrigation pumping system.

Wood stacks at Psyche Bend Pumping Station, circa 1960 (shortly after the pumping station was decomissioned). Image courtesy Peter Wharton.

“I remember once it broke the cables and floated off down the river. Norm Minter had a cabin cruiser at the time, and he had to hook onto the punt and tow it back upstream.” Peter Wharton. However, labor shortages brought on by the war created problems in finding enough timber cutters. The Government had opened internment camps in the interests of national security, to house people classed as “enemy aliens” – nationals of countries at war with Australia. The internees were allowed to join working parties used to cut timber and sleepers, with some brought to the Yarrara State Forest in the Millewa, west of Mildura. “During the Second World War it was essential to keep the pumps going and my Dad (Gustav “Otto” Moser) had a small truck. He spent the war years carting wood into the pumping stations. The firewood cutters were the ‘aliens’. Dad would go up and get his load of wood and bring it into the pumps, and he would also have the orders of food for the men, and he was quite fascinated with these Italians, and also the Scandinavian men. They talked about these ‘sour milk’ products they had at home. We had never had yoghurt back then, but it was all that sort of stuff. Dad also talked about men at the camps having what they called ‘moving stews’ and Dad was a bit worried about the moving stews! You just had your big pot going in your camp, and when someone brought you in supplies, you just dropped in another onion, another potato, another bit of meat and you just kept it going.” Jean Hinks (nee Moser) and Marjorie Moser. “I started timber cutting when I was 15. Dad knew how to cut wood and so did we. All with an axe, usually six days a week. You build the body to accommodate it, if you stick at it. When you cut boxwood or redgum you would get around three or four ton a day. When you went out in the Mallee scrub you would cut up to six ton a day. Up at the Yarrara State forest you might get eight or ten ton a day. But I came across a good patch of timber one day. (My brother) Jack was the one who owned the truck then. He used to cart eight ton of Mallee or box or gum, but when he carted pine he carted 9 ton a load. This was the best day I ever had. I got onto a terrific patch of timber and I got 18 ton. Cut, loaded all in one day. Two loads. That was my best day’s pay I ever got cutting wood. I’ll tell you though, a lot of it was dead pine and a lot of it was blown over, and that was the beauty of it…I didn’t have to cut it down. But I only got one day like that!” Roy Ferry “In the war all the blockies had to go and take their turn in cutting wood to keep the pumps going. They just didn’t have the manpower to cut enough wood.” Edna Frankel

“Dad was a bit worried about the moving stews! You just had your big pot going in your camp, and when someone brought you in supplies, you just dropped in another onion, another potato, another bit of meat and you just kept it going.”

“One fellow in his wisdom suggested we float the timber downstream that they’d cut it in the bends further upstream. Of course the green timber sank!” Jim Frankel Families living on the Billabong were also dependent on the wood supplies in the local area.

“One fellow in his wisdom suggested we float the timber downstream that they’d cut it in the bends further upstream. Of course the green timber sank!”

“We used to go out into the Billabong in a boat, and one (boy) would, as best he could, hold a tree, and the other would cut it down. You had to make sure it didn’t land on the boat. They were big trees. We would tow them down to the woodheap. The woodheap was right on the bank, and you would tow it out of the water using a winch Dad had built. He put in two posts with a fork on the top and put a straight timber with a limb on it that we had a handle on to wind – I think he called it a windlass. And suddenly the woodheap was full of wood…all you had to do was cut it up then!” Roy Ferry A new electric pumping station, called the Central Pumping Station, replaced three of the original steam-driven pumps in 1955. The fourth was replaced by the new Psyche Bend Pumping Station in 1959. “I was down there fishing the day they started to build the central pumping station. They had a bulldozer and a single-furrow plough, and they took the single furrow plough as a marker down around the site, then they started digging the hole to put the pumping station in.” Peter Wharton “Once we moved (to the Billabong) the first job Dad had was picking grapes, then woodcutting. He did channel clearing, out as far as Murrayville. But we all ended up in wood cutting, really we all finished up carting wood also until the FMIT switched from burning wood to generate their power to the State Electricity Commission, so that put-paid to our wood-carting jobs.” Roy Ferry Plans to dredge the Billabong were mooted in the 1940s. The concept was to allow water to enter the Billabong by gravity, and allow the authorities to do away with Psyche Pumps. It was ultimately shelved, due to concerns about salinity, but not before more timber was harvested in the area. “In the late 40s early 50s they cleared one side of the Billabong. My father cut a lot of the timber off it. The Forest Commission gave them permission to cut it instead of wasting the timber. He cut a lot of posts and firewood off it You can see now where all the trees were cut, and the (box trees) have all come back now in multiples. There’s thicker bush now than there was before.” Peter Wharton

In the 1950s, plans for a huge new water storage dam at the South Australian border brought a new phase of forest harvesting. The South Australian Government proposed the Chowilla Dam to improve the security of water supply to Adelaide. Although the dam was to be in South Australia, it would have flooded 427 square kilometres of Victorian wetlands, including, it was believed, King’s Billabong. The dam would kill thousands of hectares of trees, and it was decided that the best option was for a salvage operation, to take whatever timber could be used. Despite the Chowilla proposal eventually being overturned, trees would continue to be extensively logged at King’s Billabong and along much of the adjacent river frontage until the 1960s. Although the King’s Billabong area had been protected as a sanctuary since the early 20th century, the term “sanctuary” appears to have been given loose interpretation until relatively recently. Timber harvesting continued into the 1960s with horticulturists cutting posts, and residents continued to take firewood up to the 1970s. “We used to take the kids down there with the tractor and trailer, and there would be lots of sleeper off-cuts, pieces of redgum left over from when the sleeper-cutters had been through. That continued until about 1973.” Doug and Betty Woods By the 1960s, naturalists were concerned about the ongoing degradation of a diverse and valuable natural landscape. “Far too much timber-cutting takes place under licence, both commercially, and in the form of individual gathering for domestic use, whilst there is little doubt that some is also taken illegally.” Sunraysia Field Naturalists’ submission to State Wildlife Investigation Committee, 1964 “Firstly, those who take wood for domestic purposes…secondly the Forests Commission of Victoria controls the sale of timber in both its own and the Crown Land sections…and thirdly, the professional woodcutters who operate in the area…although their activities may not be confined exclusively to the Sanctuary, they nevertheless derive part of their livelihood from it, and a suitable alternative site may have to be found for them.” Sunraysia Field Naturalists’ submission to State Wildlife Investigation Committee, 1964 In addition to the timber industry, there was concern about the continuing use of the forests around King’s Billabong for grazing.

Although the King’s Billabong area had been protected as a sanctuary since the early 20th century, the term “sanctuary” appears to have been given loose interpretation until relatively recently.

There were several dairies in the area. Oxley’s Dairy, run by Myrtle Oxley, and Connelly’s Dairy were two of the larger operations. “They used to supply milk to local households and to the dairies in Mildura, too. They’d take it in 14 gallon cans, and Weirs, the main dairy in town, used to bottle it. We also used to use it at Chateau Mildura winery in the fining process (removal of tannins and color for clarification).” Peter Wharton

Original vegetation was also removed to form the fairways of the Riverside Golf Course from 1935, and to establish the race track known as Sandilong Park around 1915.

“Members of the local Dairymen’s Association are permitted to agist cattle in (the common section¬) on a month to month basis, the fee charged by the Forests Commission for this privilege being 7/6d. per head per month. The maximum number of beasts that the Commission allows in its section at any one time is officially 150, and the local Forests Officer states that at present he permits entry to only 82, with the proviso that any that are removed may not be replaced without his authority. It will be seen from this that the elimination of cattle from this section will not seriously embarrass the Forests Commission financially, and finding alternative pasture elsewhere for their animals should not create an insurmountable problem for the members of the Dairymen’s Association, or impose any hardship on them. There is no restriction on the number of beasts that may be grazed on the Crown Leases, and present numbers are unknown to the Committee.” Sunraysia Field Naturalists’ submission to State Wildlife Investigation Committee, 1964 Original vegetation was also removed to form the fairways of the Riverside Golf Course from 1935, and to establish the race track known as Sandilong Park around 1915. The original pumping station remains at Psyche Bend today, complete with operational pump – the oldest and largest configuration of its type in the world.

1880-1990s

Nichols Point and Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong would be the driving force of the huge infrastructure developments that would deliver the Chaffey Brothersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; vision for the Mildura Irrigation settlement.

James Henshilwood hot dipping fruit with children Tom and Sam Henshilwood, 1895. Image courtesy Jim Hensilwood.

The Chaffeys signed an indenture with the Victorian Government in 1887. They were granted 60,000 acres, encompassing Nichols Point and King’s Billabong. They had an option to buy another 20,000 acres at one pound an acre. The plans for the Mildura irrigation settlement were detailed in a buoyant and ambitious promotional manual,“The Australian Irrigation Colonies”, which became known as “The Red Book”. It was the cornerstone of a lavish marketing campaign for the new settlement. The promotion involved newspaper advertisements and agents in almost every city and town in England and throughout Australia. “The Red Book” had its desired effect. It attracted hopeful settlers from across the country seeking a new start and the opportunity to establish themselves as farmers. By 1887, the town of Mildura had been surveyed, and was laid out into streets and avenues. The Chaffey Brothers offices were established in Seventh Street (where the Grand Hotel is today) and, by 1889, there were a significant number of community buildings established and foundation businesses operating in the town.

Land was cleared at a rapid rate. Before “The Red Book” was printed in 1887, less than 300 acres of land had been sold. By the end of 1889, 6000 acres had been sold at Mildura, the town had 3000 residents. “The channels gave you the opportunity to store water on the farm in a tank, if you had one. One Nichols Point settler James Bottams hand-dug a well for his homestead. So if the water was running, you could fill your house tank or well. But until the channels were operational, or if they weren’t running – and in 1892 for example there were two irrigations – if you wanted water you had to go and get it. On our property, the nearest water was the 50 ft Channel, but if that wasn’t running the nearest water was at King’s Billabong, probably around a mile and a half. They had to yoke the horse, hook it up to a sled and go with the tank, a riveted steel tank of about 100 gallons, to wherever the water was. And of course there was no pump, so they had to bucket it into the tank – probably the horse drank half when it got home! There was a cow, two draught horses and a buggy horse and a couple of human beings at least – they must have spent half their time chasing water. And of course, if you work the animals, they need more water. Just that aspect of life alone is so tough to look back at.” Henry Tankard The major initial challenge confronting the Chaffeys was the delivery of water to fulfil their plans for an irrigation settlement. King’s Billabong, as a natural water storage, would form the basis of the water delivery system. The water would need to be gravity-fed through channels, so the starting point for the irrigation system would need to be from the natural highpoint of the district – the elevated area around Nichols Point. However, the Murray River lay about 90 feet below, and there was a need to lift the water for it to be gravity-fed to the fruit blocks and supply water to 40,000 acres of fruit crops. George Chaffey devised huge triple-expansion engines to power 40-inch centrifugal pumps at Psyche Bend. The system of 1000 hp and 500 hp marine steam engines, driven by wood-burning boilers, was to be the largest in the world. But Chaffey’s design was considered so unlikely to succeed that the British manufacturer Tangyes did not allow its name to be used. Instead the pump was named “the Chaffey Engine”, with Tangyes credited only as the manufacturer. As the foundation for the system, an earthen barrage was installed across the northern end of King’s Billabong, to form a dam and to retain water.

George Chaffey devised huge triple-expansion engines to power 40-inch centrifugal pumps at Psyche Bend.

“Down at Psyche where you go over the bridge just to the left there are a couple of hollows there. They are the borrow pits where the clay was raised for the Psyche Pumps.”

“All our childhood it was always called the ‘borrow pit’. Or the “borra pit” as they used to say. When they decided to put a barricade across they dug a great lot of earth out and they filled it across so the thing we drove across (the earthen barrage) as we were kids and most of our lives was called ‘the fill’. And the big pit on the other side was always called the borrow pit. It was a commonly used term elsewhere, not just here. It’s not so many years ago that people still used to drive across there and the locals were so irate when the bollards were put across to stop you, because then you had to go right around.” Jean Hinks (nee Moser) and Marjorie Moser “A lot of the borrow pits they used for making the bricks for the pump stations still exist down there now, they’re just a dent in the side of the billabong now. That’s where they raised the clay to burn the bricks for the Billabong Pumps. Down at Psyche where you go over the bridge just to the left there are a couple of hollows there. They are the borrow pits where the clay was raised for the Psyche Pumps. A lady used to live down near there and they had pipes through the bank and a garden in the bottom of the borrow pit down there. They had a bottle that blocked off the water coming in, and they would pull it out to let the water in to the veggie garden and put it back in to block it off. I think they were able to live off that and codfish for a long time.” Barry Kilpatrick From 1887, irrigation water was supplied to the horticultural plantings by pumping from the Murray River at Psyche Bend through an artificial channel (Psyche Channel) to King’s Billabong. The first pump at Psyche Bend was on the paddle boat, “Jane Eliza”, later assisted by a 20 hp traction engine and pump. “A portable engine, approximately 50hp and pump were installed at King’s Billabong, just below the site of the present pumps. This delivered water into the 50 ft channel. When the 70 ft channel was ready, a similar portable engine unit was installed on the 50ft channel at Nichols Point, close to the Karadoc Avenue bridge, to give it supply. These plants served until the permanent units were installed. In the case of Nichols Point, this was erected in 1889. The large “Chaffey Pumps” for the Billabong arrived from Tangyes Works in England late in 1889.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura The original permanent pumping plant the settlers installed comprised three pumping stations. The first was on the riverbank at Psyche Bend with a Chaffey engine driving centrifugal pumps to supply the Billabong. Another identical station on the Billabong supplied water to a large channel, which supplied both

the lower areas with water, and a third station, which consisted of Allen engines and pump, (also from England). This last station delivered water to the main channel which fed the remainder of the settlement. The permanent pumps began operating in 1889 and 1890. A fourth station was added in 1905 to serve a smaller, but higher, area. By the time the pumps were commissioned, financial considerations were occupying much of the Chaffey’s attention but they managed to overcome some of the huge potential costs attached to the Mildura development. “The Chaffey Brothers paid out huge amounts for duty (interstate taxes in pre-Federation Australia) on the British-made pumping machinery and the building materials, which, because of the vagaries of river transportation, were often imported from South Australia. Much of this duty outlay was avoided when both Chaffey Brothers and GH Risbey set up timber mills to produce mouldings etc for the booming building industry. The (original Mildura) steam engine and pump attracted the equivalent of $100,000 in duty. When a similar plant was installed at Psyche Bend pumping station, the duty demanded was well beyond the failing fortunes of the founding fathers. The Customs service co-operated by declaring the robust brick building on the bank of the Murray (the Psyche Pumping Station)…to be a Customs Bond Store. This allowed the delivery of the machinery to lift the huge volumes of water into King’s Billabong and which was vital for the demands of the irrigation system, while deferring the payment of duty indefinitely.” Sydney Wells, The Colonial Custom House at Mildura The Nichols Point area continued to develop strongly and the area became a hub of activity. Local horticultural plantings were expanding rapidly, but, just as importantly, a large labour force was required to build the critical irrigation infrastructure. “All the excitement generated by the Chaffeys and The Red Book to bring people here. And they came from all corners of the earth, and yet, within four or five years, half the settlers were departing and had left behind them their capital, the bit they had, and the desperate struggle to get a toe-hold in the place. People came with great optimism for Deakin’s social experiment with the 10 acre lot and what irrigation might do.” Henry Tankard The first settlers at Mildura, including those at Nichols Point, were encouraged to plant a range of fruit crops, and planting began in 1888. “Nichols Point is famous for its deep red lands and its high productive capacity. But it also shares with the area around the Old Mildura Homestead as the first area planted in the district. There were settlers planting in 1888 on land below the 50ft channel. It had probably the

“All the excitement generated by the Chaffeys and The Red Book to bring people here. And they came from all corners of the earth, and yet, within four or five years half the settlers were departing and had left behind them their capital, the bit they had, and the desperate struggle to get a toe-hold in the place.”

earliest supply of water. So the Jenners, the Wilkinsons, the Trevatts. They would have been some of the earliest properties to be established.” Henry Tankard Most plantings were trees, rather than vines; oranges, peaches, apricots, grapes, nectarines, figs, pears, plums, walnuts, olives, almonds, loquats, quinces, strawberries and lucerne were all tried. Between 25 and 50 percent of growers’ land was planted with vines, with Gordo Blanco being the favoured variety. There were also some smaller plantings of Zante Currants.

Most plantings were trees, rather than vines – oranges, peaches, apricots, grapes, nectarines, figs, pears, plums, walnuts, olives, almonds, loquats, quinces, strawberries and lucerne were all tried.

In 1888, the Chaffey Brothers planted 150 acres of the first wine grapes in the district at Nichols Point. Grape varieties included Mataro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Red and White Hermitage, Muscat, Gordo Blanco and Sherry. It was the beginning of their foundation winery in the area, Chateau Mildura, in Belar Avenue. Winemaking began at Chateau Mildura in 1891, with the first crush completed in a bough shed. The following year saw the construction of the ambitiously proportioned brick cellars, and in 1895 the first still was installed for spirit and brandy production. Given the rapid development and progress in the late 1880s, there was much excitement and optimism about the potential of the Mildura development. “A Visit to Mildura. The Vegetable Products Commission returned on Saturday morning from a visit to the Mildura Irrigation settlement, having been absent from Melbourne eight days. Although Mildura is only about 300 miles from Melbourne in a straight line, the commission managed to travel some 1800 miles in making the journey there and back. There isn’t a direct route to the settlement. The river Murray takes a very winding course, and when one gets to Mildura it is quicker to go on downstream to Morgan, and thence by rail by way of Adelaide, than to steam upstream again. Hence the longest way round being the quickest way home, the commission chose ‘the round trip’. After visiting the different parts of the settlement, the visitors were unanimous in expressing entire satisfaction with what they had seen, there being no two opinions about the substantial character of the work carried out by the Messrs Chaffey Brothers, the luxuriant growth of the trees and crops, and the good prospects of the settlement. The surveyed portions of the Mildura run are high above the present flood of the river, which is now about 26ft. above summer level. A point called Psyche Bend, about five miles above the town, is perhaps the principal pumping station in connection with the scheme. This is at the off-take of King’s Billabong, a deep, wide watercourse, several miles in length, which fills when the ordinary floods of the Murray take place. It is to be used for storage

purposes, and a powerful pumping plant is being provided to fill it rapidly while the river is at a high level. From the storage billabong, the water is raised by other pumping plants to channels which are 50ft. and 80ft. above the summer level of the river. The foundations for the pumping plant at Psyche Bend are nearly completed, and the works are of a very extensive character. The pumping plant, which will soon be erected, consists of a 1000-horse power triple expansion engine, driving four centrifugal pumps, capable of sending 120,000 gal of water per minute a height of 20ft, the diameter of the pumps being 40in. At Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong the pumps have been erected, and on entering the building the visitor is astounded at their magnitude. The engine is a duplicate of that at Psyche Bend, and it drives four centrifugal pumps 20in. in diameter, raising 40,000 gal. per minute into the channel, which is 50ft. above the summer level of the river. A large substantial brick building, 30ft. high, covers the machinery, and both pumps and building possess the marked characteristic of solidity. These two pumpingengines were designed by Mr George Chaffey, and the larger one is believed to be the biggest direct-action centrifugal in the world applied to irrigation purposes. At a place called Nicholâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Point there is another substantial building containing a 450 horse-power engine, with pumps capable of raising 20,000 gal per minute from the 50ft. channel into the 70ft. channel, the same plant also, when required, sending 700,500 gal. per minute into the 80ft. channel. The town and about 2000 acres are supplied by a 200 horse-power compound engine, working a double action force pump, which raises 1000 gal. per minute to a height of 70ft. A mile lower down the river, a similar engine raises water into the 35ft. channel, lifting 30,000 gal. per minute, and still lower down a small direct-action centrifugal supplies Lord Ranfurleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plantation at the rate of 1000 gallons per minute. The figures given refer to the power of the various pumps, and not to the work which they have as yet been called upon to perform. Twelve miles of wrought-iron pipes have been laid, and there have been made about 31 miles of main channels and 25 miles of subsidiary channels. Water has thus been provided for about 30,000 acres of land. There have been 7000 acres sold, 3000 acres cleared of Mallee scrub, and 2000 planted with vines and fruit trees. The Chaffey Bros, have planted on behalf of purchasers 280 acres of vines, principally raisin varieties, 425 acres orange trees, 150 acres lemons, 100 acres apricots, 50 acres figs, and 20 acres prunes. The settlers have planted on their own account about 200 acres of vines and fruit trees. There are 600 acres under cereal crops, 30 acres under Lucerne, and 200 acres are being prepared for maize. The grain crops look well, the returns gained from sorghum are astonishing, and the growth of all the vine and fruit plantations is surprising. The settlers seem all well satisfied with their prospects, and those who have given evidence spoke with warmth of the wonderful growth of vegetation under the conditions of a warm climate, a rich soil, and a sufficient

The settlers seem all well satisfied with their prospects, and those who have given evidence spoke with warmth of the wonderful growth of vegetation under the conditions of a warm climate, a rich soil, and a sufficient supply of water.

“No hut or squarebuilt cottage on a halfgrubbed paddock, but a dainty little house built all of the native pine.... ... Within this dainty place is tastefully lined with polished pine, and furnished and ordered in a fashion that indicates unmistakably the presence of the wise housewife.”

supply of water. The clearing of the Mallee, which is done by means of a traction engine and a wire rope, costs from £2to £4 per acre, and most of the breaking-up is also done under contract by the Messrs Chaffey’s steam cultivators. Building operations are being fairly carried on in the town, and the population of the entire settlement is now estimated at 1200, including 250 men employed by the promoters. The comfortable boats lit by electric light make the river trip a very pleasant one. A very enjoyable trip was made by the commission, and all returned with a firm belief in the genuineness of the Mildura enterprise and confidence in its ultimate success.” The Argus, October 28, 1889 Optimistic accounts of the potential of Mildura, and the wonders that were occurring in the region, fuelled continuing development of the settlement. “Now let us move abroad a little, out of the township, away from the river, and amongst the working pioneers of the colony. Mr McKay, proprietor and editor of the Cultivator newspaper and a pioneer irrigationist and fruitgrower in Victoria, volunteers to be my guide…We start now from the verandah of our Coffee Palace, and we drive away past the new brick Custom House, the clatter and bang and whir and roar of the great machinery shops sounding just below. We pass the villa sites — all sold, though not yet tilled or occupied — and enter immediately on a series of orchards and vineyards and orangeries and gardens. There is the lemon patch of the Rev. R. Johnson Smith, of Wentworth. Then, amongst its trees and flowers, Mr. Appelby’s neat adobe house. Next, well-tilled and luxurious, the 25-acre vineyard of the late Mr. Eric Farquharson. A sad association this. There are some amongst us who followed that gallant young rider to his grave not long ago. There are many here who knew him as a bright and genial companion and enterprising colonist, and who hoped to have him as a neighbour through all the colony’s development. Further along is Messrs. Irving and Beecher’s plantation of apricots, oranges, and vines — 24 acres in all — and beyond a neat gate and fence, the newlyestablished home of Mr. F. G. Hodges, which we needs must visit. Mr. Hodges has already a home well worthy of the name. No hut or squarebuilt cottage on a half-grubbed paddock, but a dainty little house built all of the native pine, with verandahs on three sides, and quaint fantastic gables here and there, with a tower above the roof reached by an outside staircase, on the top of which is a cool airy smoking room, from which is a view of some thousands of acres of fast farming plantations. Within this dainty place is tastefully lined with polished pine, and furnished and ordered in a fashion that indicates unmistakably the presence of the wise housewife. It is indeed a comfortable home, most pleasantly situated and surrounded. And what is going to support it. We walk through the grounds with Mr. Hodges and first, says he, let me explain to you that not one tree you see round about here was planted before October last year. You see here but fourteen months’ growth.

Fourteen months’ growth ! We are amongst the vines now. Fourteen months’ growth! Are we dreaming? Let us pause for a moment. Let us look carefully at one of these vines, and we will certainly choose one of the best. It is a good stout bush, not staked after the fashion of our ordinary Victorian vineyards, but growing from a stalk cut almost close to the ground. It has in all nine shoots; they average two feet six inches in length, and we count on them twenty-one bunches of grapes. There is no mistake whatever about it. We verify the date of the planting. In mid-October,1889, that particular vine was planted. In November, 1890, it gives promise to yield full twenty pounds of ripe fruit. It is the best of a dozen; others have seven, ten, thirteen, sixteen bunches ; but the whole area is in bearing, and will this year yield more profit than will pay for the whole cost of tilling the soil and harvesting the crop. Beyond the grapes are apricots and peaches of the same age, and showing the same phenomenal growth. They will not bear much fruit this year, indeed it is not desirable that they should. Let them make their summer and autumn’s growth of wood, and next year we may look for a substantial crop. Prunes and oranges beyond the peaches look also well. Not quite so well, perhaps, as grapes and apricots. The prunes are naturally of a slower growth, and the oranges do not make much headway till they get a good grip of the soil, and become inured to the sometimes nipping or scorching winds. Another year, however, will bring them into profit also. Immediately about the house a varied orchard is set, fruit trees of all sorts, with almonds and olives amongst them, and for beauty’s and shelter’s sake pine and currajong and palm and cypress,a buffalo lawn within, and some chains of marginal flower beds. Outhouses, stables, elevated water tanks for house supply, are all well ordered as can be. And all by-and-by will be covered with many varieties of creepers.” The Argus, December 20, 1890 The developments and economic activity around Nichols Point produced several major and prosperous landholders. “The Iredales had a big holding. They must have come out with the screed in the Red Book – land of gentry and all that. There was the Iredales, the Locheads, the Pearsons, the Kilpatricks, the Daveys all on Nichols Point here. Most of those families are not here anymore. The Kilpatricks are the only ones still here, and are now out in the mid area now – they used to own Largo, at the end of Fifth Street. The Pearson house in Cowra Avenue had a tower on it – he used to climb up in the tower and use a telescope to look around his block to make sure every bugger was working! That house burnt down just a few years back.” Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel “The Forbes property was another of the notable properties. There are wellknown pictures of wooden trays all lined up, with canvas tents that, if there was a thunderstorm coming, they had to race around and stack all

“The Pearson house in Cowra Avenue had a tower on it – he used to climb up in the tower and use a telescope to look around his block to make sure every bugger was working! “

Drying ground (showing covers in distance), circa 1920. Image sourced from ‘Mildura Illustrated’ Harold F. Levien.

Irrigating young sultana vines, Mildura, December 1890. Image sourced from ‘Pioneering Days in Mildura, John Hensilwood.

these wooden trays and cover them, which was a huge mission. The Forbes Family was very progressive I think and had a substantial vineyard.” Henry Tankard When the permanent pumping system was finally commissioned at King’s Billabong in 1891, the intention was that it would provide four irrigations a year to all properties. Perhaps predictably, the reality was that the system was somewhat less reliable than anticipated. “The 90ft system was for years the ‘Cinderella’ of the district, the first irrigation of the season running into seven weeks for an acreage much smaller than now. I have known but two irrigations being supplied by 7th December. (I experienced it personally. I was trying to grow apricots, and the second irrigation arrived when the apricots were ripe). An occurrence like that now would cause a riot! In later years the 90 ft was served with a larger and better unit, lifting direct from the Billabong, thus eliminating an expensive operating system.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura The early days in the Mildura settlement were hopeful times but problems were emerging with vine and tree diseases, and crops planted on unsuitable soils. Much of the land planted with citrus was entirely unsuitable, and within four years many of the trees had died. Often these were replaced with apricots, but the grower was forced to begin again. The early problems were exacerbated by nurseries selling inferior stock. “In planting such large areas each year, it was inevitable that the demand for citrus and deciduous trees should lead to exploitation by the nurserymen…and, as it takes several years for the trees to become productive, some time elapsed before the full extent of this was known, and growers were fully seized of its meaning. Then it was seen in all its tragic portent – trees untrue to variety and type, bad stocks, poor bearers, bearing useless fruit….years of growers’ toil were wasted. It is no wonder many went under in their rude awakening.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura “The pioneers were part of the tremendous effort to try to establish this irrigation colony without effective transport and in an isolated place in a semi-desert, reliant on the river if it ran, before locks and weirs, and insecure water supply. The Chaffey engines heralded as marvellous machines, I think there are some who would question that – one great engineer said they ran in spite of their design, not because of it. They were modified substantially to stop them leaving their bearings and breaking their parts.” Henry Tankard

The early days in the Mildura settlement were hopeful times but problems were emerging with vine and tree diseases, and crops planted on unsuitable soils.

A promising and large crop of fresh fruit in 1893 provided encouraging signs of future prosperity, but Government promises of a railway line to Mildura had not been delivered. When the river was closed by low water, efforts to get the bountiful crop to market failed.

“Accounts of the condition of Mildura are somewhat conflicting; while on the one hand the prosperity of the irrigation colony is trumpeted abroad, on the other a somewhat gloomy picture is drawn of the state of affairs. A private letter of which the substance is published in the Australasian says that the fruitgrowers depended on the promises of the Government that they should have a railway, and planted early varieties of peaches, apricots and grapes. The early peaches and apricots are not good for drying, while the early grapes were unsaleable at Mildura when in Melbourne similar varieties were realising from 15s. to 20s.per case. Tons of peaches have been wasted this season, as they are not suitable for either drying or canning. The writer believes the money for a tramway to connect the place with the Victorian railway system could be raised, and unless something of the sort is done the prospect for the future of the place is, he considers, a very gloomy one.” The Queenslander, February 24, 1894 The fresh fruit was taken on a three day horse and cart journey to Swan Hill before spending another 24 hours on a freight train to Melbourne. Three -quarters of the crop was lost. Salinity was another major emerging threat. “Small patches of white began to appear in the soil as early as 1892. The vines in them appear to have a sort of shrunken appearance. It was soon discovered to be salt – thus another trouble was added to the growers’ worries. Trees died, vines stunted were replanted and started again. Nothing could be suggested to relieve the situation, but we had a grower who had been leasing fruit land for some years, and who eventually bought a property in Irymple. In his younger days he had been a miner, and he became obsessed with the idea that underneath lay a drift which, when tapped, he considered would be sufficient to carry off drainage water. But how deep? (In the 1890s) he sank a shaft and struck his drift at 40 feet. The venture proved successful, and to Mr James Smith….belongs the credit and honor of starting something which has ended in our very excellent drainage system.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura The rapid escalation of the dried fruit industry in the 1890s was the end result of the failure of the Government to provide the promised railway line. Settlers were left with no option but to dry their fruit to get a saleable product to market.

In 1892, the region hosted its first vice-regal visit. The Governor the Hon. John Kidd toured the settlement, visiting the Nichols Point and the pumps to inspect the “marvellous results achieved over four years”. Despite the difficulties the settlers were already encountering, the reports were glowing, and there was speculation about the expansion of irrigation to the New South Wales side of the Murray. “All the trees and vines are doing remarkably well. The houses of the settlers are of a substantial nature, everything betokening prosperity. Already a considerable quantity of raisins has been dried and apricots have been sent to market. The total population of Mildura is about 4000. The buildings in town are not only substantial, but many are of beautiful design.” Sydney Morning Herald, June 1892 Nichols Point would be the site of the first plantings of what would come to be the hallmark fruit of the Sunraysia region: sultana vines. Sultanas had not been recommended to settlers, with W.B. Chaffey reportedly advising “one or two vines around the house for home use, but commercially, no!” Nevertheless, Thomas Lancaster and James Henshilwood decided to include a few sultanas on their Nichols Point properties as an experiment. They did so in 1890, when their land was first planted. Each established about one acre of the unfashionable variety. “A small crop was harvested off these vines in 1892, sun dried as naturals, and sold to local storekeepers. The following year they bore a good crop, sun dried again as naturals, and sent to Melbourne market. But a kick came from the merchants, who complained of the colour as against the imported Turkish fruit at that time. The complaint referred only to sultanas. In the following season, 1894, the sultanas were all hot-dipped. In these years it was observed that the sultana seemed to bear a much better average crop than the other varieties, and during those years the local nurserymen made every conceivable cutting they could off these two acres, and also imported cuttings from South Australia. There was thus a supply of sultana rootlings for replanting.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura With its hardy characteristics and suitability for drying, the sultana variety was seized on by settlers still battling with poor transport options. In a few years, sultana was the predominant variety grown in the Nichols Point area and across the Mildura region. “James Henshilwood and Thomas Lancaster brought the first sultanas to the area from Adelaide and tried them and they grew like weeds! But that really rescued Mildura in the first instance. The sultana grape would really have to be the number one salvation of the region. Apart from the people

Sultanas had not been recommended to settlers, with WB Chaffey reportedly advising “one or two vines around the house for home use, but commercially, no!”

who had been pre-screened by adversity – the stayers who really did do marvellous things to hang onto the place.” Henry Tankard Growers adopted hot-dipping techniques (using a solution of oils and potash to split the skin of the grape) to dry grapes more quickly. This brought about the development of the ubiquitous Sunraysia “dip-tins”, the first of which were used on the Henshilwood fruit block at Nichols Point. The large wooden dip trays that had been used previously were cumbersome, and the idea of substituting perforated kerosene tins for these was first suggested by W.B. Chaffey.

Growers adopted hot-dipping techniques (using a solution of oils and potash to split the skin of the grape) to dry grapes more quickly. This brought about the development of the ubiquitous Sunraysia “dip-tins”...

“In conversation with my father (Chaffey) suggested the idea of picking into tins and carting them from the vine to dip. This was tried out; it proved the very thing the growers wanted, and this method came into general use. The ubiquitous kerosene tin was pressed into service and hundreds of them were imported into the settlement. They were perforated with a special hammer by the packing house, using a thick lump of lead fastened to a projecting red gum beam as the stamping block – very primitive, but it served. Being of light tin, these lasted only a few years.” John Henshilwood The dip-tin, as it became known, was eventually refined into a design of black 24-gauge iron by E.J. Roberts, and became a best-seller, standing up admirably to the hardships of the harvest season. “I purchased in 1910 200 of these tins…after 31 year’s use I had them repaired and wire bound, and of these 150 tins are in service this season – 40 years of continual use.” John Henshilwood, 1950 Despite their perseverance and innovation, by the early 1890s growers were complaining they had been misled. The Chaffey brothers’ experience in the rich vineyards of California had left them ill-equipped for the challenges of the semi-arid Mallee. Discontent was rife in the settlement, and complaints were taken to the Victorian Parliament about the Chaffeys. The problems were intensified by the collapse of the land boom in Melbourne and a drift away from Mildura. The animosity was intensified when settlers were advised by the secretary of the Law Department that the Chaffeys’ practices were illegal. Melbourne newspapers magnified the troubles at Mildura, the unions became involved and the development of the irrigation colony became a public scandal. A series of Government reports failed to calm the situation, with radical elements in the settlement determined to get rid of the Chaffeys.

ABOVE Nichols Point Pumping Station & staff, circa 1910. Image sourced from a postcard courtesy Henry Tankand. LEFT Psyche Pumps makerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plaque, circa 1890. Image courtesy Peter Wharton.

“It was really an entirely different environment to anything the Chaffey’s had experienced. And really they were reliant on the land boom continuing and a great flood of capital to continue the next scale of works to meet the conditions of their concessional land grant. That is why, ultimately, it fell over. Their problems coincided with the great banks crash in 1893 that left very few financial institutions still upright at the end of it.” Henry Tankard

...men have to frequently, at a moment’s notice, walk four or five miles to their work…be at work sharp at 7.30 am and not knock off until 5.30 pm, then walk home the same distance...

“Sir - By instructions of my Committee of Management, I ask you insertion of a statement of the facts, which have led up and caused this strike and lockout. The objects of the strike are to establish the eight-hour principle, and that men shall now work here (Mildura) for lower rates of pay than those which prevail in metropolitan centres…that wages be paid fortnightly, instead of as hitherto having to wait not less than a month, and frequently six weeks…this day a meeting was convened for the purposes of forming a union, which was most successfully done. The Land, Trade, and Labour Union of Australia’s objects are: To advance the interests by the reduction of the hours of labour, increasing wages and otherwise benefiting all working men in anywise connected with land through the colonies, especially as regards Mildura settlers, squatters, stations, homestead lessees, farmers and others…we have little doubt of a successful result provided labour abstains from coming here at present… I am informed this afternoon that the Messrs Chaffey have today stopped pumping water for the town, and there seems to be a possibility of our having to face a water famine here through the Chaffeys having the control of our existing water supply…One of the many grievances which men complain of here is the difference between their nominal and actual working hours. For instance men have to frequently, at a moment’s notice, walk four or five miles to their work…be at work sharp at 7.30 am and not knock off until 5.30 pm, then walk home the same distance...” South Australian Register, May 26, 1890 “George Chaffey hit the mark exactly when, in a recent reply he said :-” The majority of our men care nothing for eight hours systems or unions of any sort, because they have “homes and interest in the place”. That squatter or farmer or freeholder would be a good patriot and a noble pioneer of a new order who would first set the example of giving all his hands, homes and interest in the place. And interest need not imply freehold rights. Cottage instead of hut, garden instead of sheepyard or piggery, the little comforts of life instead of the costly though rude accommodations of the old days, meals for rations, and bedrooms for bunks-these are the effective fighting tools against the despotism of unionism and the worries of agitators.” The Argus, June 17, 1890 Pressured by the landboom they had created, the Chaffeys had dug channels which were too shallow, and in light, sandy soil.

“But of course some of that calamity couldn’t have been anticipated. The Chaffeys were Canadians that had come out of America with fast-flowing rivers and silt that sealed urban channels, then they pushed the tops off Mallee sandhills into the swales and built an urban channel through it that leaked like a sieve. They hadn’t heard of yabbies, burrowing yabbies, so really an entirely different environment to anything that they had experienced.” Henry Tankard “The problem of seepage was tackled…by a committee appointed by the settlers comprising John Williams, John Dundas, James Johnston, SD Glyde and LH Iredale, to meet WB Chaffey to discuss concreting the channels in 1895. It was agreed that Chaffey Bros would be willing to continue lining the channels by the labour of settlers, crediting the value of the labour against instalments due on land. A schedule of work was to be prepared of the amount they would offer for such work, and if sufficient settlers accepted the offer, could commence with the 70 ft channel (at Nichols Point).” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura Seepage, salination and poor water delivery were enormous problems, with 50 percent of the water drawn from the river evaporating or seeping away. “There was no water to the property until 1892, when a branch of the 85 foot channel was constructed by Chaffey Brothers, and I guess that opened up an era of great opportunity, but also destruction of the lands. Because within a couple of years of that lifeline from the river passing through our property the urban channel that was perched in a manmade mound higher than the surrounding lands leaked like a sieve and there was a permanent lake on either side of the channel – the only harvest for the next 60 years was duck shooting! My father and I drained that land in the 1960s. Ultimately after the salts were leeched from it, it became highly productive. I think it gave us hope about sustainable land use in this land where there was this inexhaustible deposit of salt within the earth that rose with the water table when it rose. The fact that it could be recovered and ultimately matched the highest production level of vine fruits in the world, but it was a struggle to leach it and bring it back.” Henry Tankard A report by the Victorian Water Supply Department (1892) detailed incidents of non-compliance by the Chaffey Brothers in delivering water, and the poor design of irrigation settlement. All the complaints were rejected by the Chaffeys and their supporters, but the criticism gained momentum. “They planted a few gordos, W.B. did, on his land, with the idea that they be used for distillation or winemaking. But winemaking was very secondary. I think the absence of the railway and the reliance on river transport, which was erratic, or transporting goods over rough tracks to Swan Hill – or originally you had to get to Echuca – that was death to

A report by the Victorian Water Supply Department (1892) detailed incidents of non-compliance by the Chaffey Brothers in delivering water, and the poor design of irrigation settlement.

perishable products. The settlers learned very quickly they could hang on to almonds, and dried tree fruits and dried grapes.” Henry Tankard Production quickly outstripped demand, and prices collapsed. The bank crash of 1893 escalated the problems and the West Australian goldrush lured some disheartened settlers. Many of the settlement’s original settlers left. In 1895, the Chaffey Brothers Limited and the Mildura Irrigation Company went into receivership.

Production quickly outstripped demand, and prices collapsed. The bank crash of 1893 escalated the problems and the West Australian gold rush lured some disheartened settlers.

“The time came when there was no money in the settlement, and therefore, it seemed imminent that the pumps would not be running, which would be the deathblow to the growers. So it was a case of everyone putting his or her shoulder to the wheel. Those of the growers who were engineers, firemen etc took their places at the pumps, while their friends and families watered the blocks and so bravely kept things going.” Obituary, E.S. Gregory by Alice Lapthorne “The Chaffeys were reliant on the land boom continuing and a great flood of capital to generate the next scale of works to meet the conditions of their concessional land-grant. And ultimately that’s why it collapsed. It coincided with the great banks crash of 1893 that left very few financial institutions upright at the end of it.” Henry Tankard A Royal Commission was held the following year: “Foremost among the causes of failure must be placed the grave errors made in laying out the settlement and in making provision for the supply of water for irrigation. The second is the non-fulfilment of obligations undertaken in the agreement, whereby the reasonable expectations of settlers in Mildura have been disappointed; and thirdly the hopeless financial management of the company.” Royal Commission, 1896 The commission was scathing of the management by the Chaffeys. But it also criticised the Government failure to adequately supervise the development and to deliver the necessary supporting infrastructure, such as the railway line. The commission recommended the Government support the Mildura settlement, and loans were made for measures including the lining of channels. Growers formed the First Mildura Irrigation Trust (FMIT) in 1896 to manage the pumping system and irrigation infrastructure, and they formed trusts and collectives, including the Mildura Fruitgrowers’ Association and the Raisin Trust to try to protect their interests.

Tray and rack methods of fruit drying, circa 1920. Image courtesy Jim Hensilwood.

The organisations were formed to protect grower and community interests in the wake of the Chaffeys’ financial collapse and marked the beginning of orderly marketing for fruit. They also became the hallmarks of the unique co-operative character of the isolated settlement at Mildura.

“A Nichols Point grower Thomas Rawlings was one of the founding members of the ADFA and FMIT. He had been a prominent citizen, and had the property on the corner of Irymple Avenue and Fifth Street. There were a number of other prominent leaders too, at the time – Nichols Point generated several citizens who had a concern that extended beyond their own boundaries and were quite heavily involved in community affairs and particularly the pioneering of the structures that allowed the settlement to continue. There was no orderly marketing of primary products in Australia before the Raisin Trust and ultimately the ADFA was founded. People like Rawlings were heavily engaged in that. The development of the co-operative movement, and that’s what the Raisin Trust and ADFA were, and the use of the Trust principal – Trust is almost a non-existent commodity now if you look at the way modern business operates. Business today is a massive contrast to the foundation principles that grew at Mildura. The very early belief that we really have to unify and act in a concerted way – the idea that if you want to have a colony or a life in Mildura then you’d better get busy and do something about it, because no one else is going to do it for you.” Henry Tankard The organisations were formed to protect grower and community interests in the wake of the Chaffeys’ financial collapse and marked the beginning of orderly marketing for fruit. They also became the hallmarks of the unique co-operative character of the isolated settlement at Mildura. Despondent and bankrupt, George Chaffey returned to California, but William stayed on to persist with the irrigation development alongside the settlers. Adding to their difficulties was the unreliability of the enormous pumping system installed at Nichols Point and King’s Billabong. It frequently threatened growers’ livelihoods. “At Thursday’s meet of the Irrigation Trust Board it was unanimously decided to restrict the present watering to citrus trees and domestic supply such a step having been rendered imperative by the abnormally low and falling condition of the river and the tremendous expense and risk attaching to the working of the Psyche Bend pumps. It may well be supposed that the decision was arrived at only after much deliberation and with great reluctance, even though the Commissioners had before them the knowledge of last week’s smash at Psyche Bend, and Mr Howden’s assurance the risks of a complete break-down are at present considerable, while it will be impossible to pump at all in the event of a further fall of a few inches. The river is now lower than it was ever known to be the gauge showing 1ft. 4in. below summer level, while the lowest previously recorded was …in April 1866, and a similar level on 23rd March, 1870, and 3rd April, 1898--and it is still falling at the rate of a quarter of an inch daily… In the circumstances, then, the only thing to do is to run the three Psyche pumps (which “caught the water” at 2.30 p.m. yesterday) at full speed

until they can no longer suck water to throw into the Billabong. The pumps at the Billabong station will be set going today or tomorrow, but they will be able to run a couple of days only after the Psyche pumps cease work, and certainly not long enough to supply crop lands and deciduous trees as well as citrus and domestic. The alternatives the Commissioners had to face at Thursday’s meeting were (a) to supply merely the trees over the whole district which is most in need of water at this season or (b) to follow the usual scheme of watering in successive sections, with the risk of leaving a large portion of the settlement absolutely waterless. Naturally, the first course was agreed upon and instructions immediately issued to gangers to restrict the water to citrus trees and to filling settlers’ tanks. It is sincerely hoped that the river will hold good until all the citrus trees are supplied, and that the rain, which has been threatening lately, will speedily fall and save the crops. As for the low level of the river, there is a glimmer of hope in the remembrance that while in March 1870 the gauge was exceedingly low, by the end of the same year there was experienced one of the biggest floods ever known on the Murray. It is to be hoped that the present record lowness will be the precursor of a ‘banker’ which will fill the Billabong and keep the river so high that Psyche will have a rest next season.” Mildura Cultivator, March, 1900 Gains for the area slowly began to occur, most significantly with the arrival of the promised train in 1903. But the challenges continued for the settlement. Australia entered World War One in August 1914, bringing about an enormous drain on the settlement’s young men and its resources. At the same time, the Mildura settlement and its crops were threatened by the terrible drought of 1914. Settlers planned to build a weir at Psyche Bend to hold back water for the pumps to feed the Billabong. “FIRST MILDURA IRRIGATION TRUST - Temporary Weir at Psyche Bend. A special meeting of the First Mildura Irrigation Trust Board was held on Tuesday morning to receive Mr Partridge’s report on his mission to Melbourne and decide what shall be done in the way of providing a temporary barrage. Those in attendance were Coms. Thomson (Chairman), Rawlings, Kelly, Newton and Hollick. Mr Partridge made a brief report on the proceedings in Melbourne. After negotiations with New South Wales, it was decided to go on with the work, the Water Commission agreeing to put in a weir for Merbein. There was some difficulty in getting the consent of New South Wales, but this was finally granted on the understanding that sufficient compensation water would be sent forward for Curlwaa requirements. The proposal, Mr Partridge explained, was to make a weir at a suitable reef just below Psyche Bend. It was not proposed to impound all water coming down, an undertaking being given that a quantity equal to that passing Morgan (S.A.) should be allowed to pass over the Psyche

Australia entered World War One in August 1914, bringing with it an enormous drain on the settlement’s young men and its resources.

Fire pit for hot dipping freshly picked fruit prior to drying on trays or racks, circa 1920. Image courtesy Jim Hensilwood.

Bend weir…The rocks below Psyche already acted as a natural dam, but would require to be raised. The average fall there is 4’ inches to the mile. Above Psyche it is four inches to the mile, which would mean that an eight-foot weir would affect the water 24 miles back and hold 17 or 18 days’ supply. Mr Partridge had suggested that the Government might pay the cost of the temporary weir, but ,the suggestion was not enthusiastically received…There was no talk or thought of making the weir a permanent one…Judging by the steady diminution in the flow at Mildura and the reports received from Swan Hill, there was a real necessity for a weir. The Chairman added that in conversation with old river residents he had learned that the stream had never previously, to their knowledge, fallen so low at this season of the year. Their plain duty was to be prepared for an emergency. Com. Rawlings said that the Board would not be justified in withholding action any longer. They should make their position absolutely sure. He moved: “That in view of the present serious position the Board considers it advisable to proceed with the erection of a dam below Psyche.” Com. Hollick seconded, and it was carried..The work of making the weir is being immediately proceeded with.” Mildura Cultivator, November 18, 1914 A month later, the work had been completed. “As a result of the construction of the temporary weir at Psyche Bend, there is now a fine stretch of water in the Murray as far back as Macfarlane’s Reef, a distance of about 14 or 15 miles. The long reaches between these two points are filled to a fair depth from bank to bank and present a wonderful contrast to the mean little stream which recently trickled down past the punt reef and other crossing points near to the town of Mildura.” Mildura Cultivator, December 16, 1914 “When the Weir is out at Lock 11, if you stand just below Psyche, near where what is labelled the ‘crane tree’, when the river is low you can actually see broken water, a slight ripple. When the weir is in you can’t see it at all. But that is where there is a natural reef. And before the river was locked, that was where they put a temporary barrier across so they could hold some water back for Psyche to pump.” Jean and Ian Hinks The end of the war brought a new era of optimism and development. Pressure was escalated by the Soldier Settlement Scheme, which was expanding the Sunraysia Irrigation area. The Government created new irrigation settlements at Birdwoodton and Red Cliffs to assist in the repatriation of returned soldiers from the First World War. George Gregory was a progressive Nichols Point grower who paid particular attention to the scientific side of fruit growing. His obituary notes he “read horticultural books extensively and carried out experiments in connection with

“As a result of the construction of the temporary weir at Psyche Bend, there is now a fine stretch of water in the Murray as far back as Macfarlane’s Reef, a distance of about 14 or 15 miles.”

fruit production, some of which he was aided by a microscope”. With the outbreak of black spot in 1917 he was appointed to a research committee on the fungus and was later chairman of the Mildura Vineyards Protection Board. He was subsequently elected a shire councillor in 1919.

Although eventually built downstream of the Mildura settlement, Lock 11 was originally proposed for Bruce’s Bend.

With production rising rapidly, and an opportunity given post-war fruit shortages, the dried fruits industry embarked on an ambitious 20,000 pound marketing campaign headed by the effervescent, young businessman, Clement John De Garis. It resulted in the opening of the Mildura Shop and Sunraysia Café in Melbourne’s Collins Street to sell Mildura produce. The campaign also included intensive magazine, picture-show and media promotion. “In 1919 a shortage of shipping space for sixteen weeks exposed the dried fruits industry’s excessive dependence on the British market. De Garis persuaded the Australian Dried Fruits Association to vote him £20,000 to mount a nation-wide publicity campaign to expand the home market. Using new American gimmicks, the campaign comprised competitions, recipe books, children’s books, cartoons and pamphlets. Australians danced to the ‘Sun-Raysed Waltz’ and the town halls of the capitals hosted free screenings of film about Mildura. Even the influenza epidemic of 1919 was exploited: ‘I fear no more the dreaded ‘flu…For Sunraysed fruits will pull me through’.” Australian Dictionary of Biography, (Vol.8.), 1981 The expanding irrigation area and the memory of the 1914 drought intensified pressure for a lock to be established on the river to protect water supplies to the settlement. Although eventually built downstream of the Mildura settlement, Lock 11 was originally proposed for Bruce’s Bend. “The commissioners of the First Mildura Irrigation Trust view with alarm the delay in constructing Lock No 11 at Bruce’s Bend, a few miles from Mildura. At the meeting of the Trust it was stated that in view of the double drain on the river now that the Red Cliffs pumps were at work, and the low level of water, the lock could not be commenced too soon, and that if a drought occurred next year there was a danger of a return to the conditions of 1914. The State Rivers and Water Supply Commission is to be approached regarding the matter. The plans of the Murray Waters Commission do not provide for the building of this lock for two or three years.” The Argus, December 11, 1922 “At a meeting of the Sunraysia Development Association, long discussion took place regarding the urgent necessity for the commencement of work at Lock 11, Bruce’s Bend, some miles above Mildura. The construction of this lock would safeguard Mildura and Merbein, and to a lesser extent Red Cliffs in the event of a severe drought. It was decided to co-operate with

the Mildura Irrigation Trust in an effort to impress upon the Governments concerned the extreme importance of expedition in the matter.” The Argus, December 13, 1922 Construction of the Mildura Weir began in 1923. The dried fruit crop yielded almost 60,000 tonnes by 1930. However, prices plummeted as the Great Depression emerged and as European countries returned to production after the war. “My Dad came here in 1921 – dried fruit prices collapsed the following year. It was just a precursor to the Depression, I think.” Edna Frankel (nee Morris) “I can remember as a kid the swaggies and that coming for handouts and to cut the wood for food and things like that. It’s something that stays with you. You never forget it. Even years later when I was with a mob of blokes working, if I had my dinner and they didn’t and I didn’t have enough to go around I wouldn’t eat it. Things didn’t pick up until the boys came back from the Second World War with their money. Because they had deferred pay – from then on things picked up.” Jim Frankel By 1932, 29 percent of Australians were unemployed. Unemployment Relief projects were being set up to usefully occupy unemployed men – among them, a half million pound project to install a drainage system to manage Mildura’s growing salinity problem. The drainage system was a breakthrough in dealing with the persistent and growing problem of salinity on fruit blocks at Nichols Point, but it was in some ways a double-edged sword for fruit growers. “When my grandfather died in 1934 there was a 600 pounds debt which had been accumulated partly by the opportunity to connect to the FMIT first drainage scheme, which was installed during the Great Depression. The core drainage scheme was installed at that time. I think the packer found a buyer a few times for the property for my grandmother, who resisted all attempts to lose it, so she hung onto it.” Henry Tankard The influx of grape pickers for the fruit harvest each summer became notorious. Growers were frustrated by an unreliable and unpredictable workforce of itinerant labourers drawn from across the country. Pickers became increasingly hostile at the lack of respect they and their work received. In 1939, a “riot for better conditions” involving 500 fruit pickers turning on police at Red Cliffs became a turning point for workers’ rights across the district. The uprising was led by Louise Edwards and it had implications for fruit growers across the region.

“I can remember as a kid the swaggies and that coming for handouts and to cut the wood for food and things like that. It’s something that stays with you. You never forget it.”

Fruit picking, circa 1940. Image courtesy Henry Tankard.

“I fought for the underdog all my life…I had planned and arranged the riot with the fruit pickers…we picked their grapes for them (growers), as soon as they got their fruit picked they wanted the police to run you off the blocks. There was no social service. When they got their first week’s pay, they would come into town for a few drinks which they were entitled to, then the police would be waiting outside the hotel to arrest them, sweating on them so they could take their money away from them in fines…we decided to riot for better working conditions…the coppers came in from everywhere. They put water on us, and broke it up.” Louise Edwards, Sunraysia Daily, 1966 “There were several factors contributing to the cause. My sympathies are with the great majority of the men. Firstly the men searching for work in the most trying period of the year travel here under conditions which are not a credit to a civilised community. I have seen men hunted from a goods train on a hot day on the road in the desert-like Mallee between Hattah and Carwarp like a mob of cattle. When they arrive here, instead of being welcomed in our midst, they are viewed with suspicion and left to roam like animals.” Albert Allnutt, Member for Mildura, Sunraysia Daily, March 17 1939 A petition was presented to the Victorian Parliament calling for the provision of accommodation with showers and recreation rooms for pickers looking for employment, for an employment bureau to be set up in the harvesting districts and for itinerant workers to be allowed to travel to the district in empty rail trucks. The result was that growers were forced to make better transport and accommodation arrangements for itinerant workers. As a result, pickers’ huts became commonplace around the district, including on Nichols Point properties. The outbreak of World War Two in 1939 created another era of enormous social upheaval. Two thousand men enlisted from the Mildura district, and Mildura was established as an air training base. Though the drain on the region’s male population meant the harvest workforce during the war consisted largely of women, children and older men, a record 105,000 ton sultana crop was harvested in 1944. “There are 12,000 people at Mildura picking fruit. Of this total local labor provides 6000. The remaining 6000 have had to be imported. The statement of these bare statistics conveys very little. They reveal that a very large number of fruit pickers are on the job, and that only half of them have been recruited locally. But few would read into them the extraordinary amount of organisation necessary for ensuring that the important job of fruit picking is proceeding smoothly, at the right time, in the right places and by the right sort of people. The nerve centre for this vast and vital work is in the offices of the Manpower Directorate in Melbourne…Workers are notified when they have to travel and are provided with a train ticket and

The outbreak of World War II in 1939 created another era of enormous social upheaval. Two thousand men enlisted from the Mildura district, and Mildura was established as an air training base.

timetable. Workers are carried to the fruit picking areas in special trains or in special cars attached to the ordinary trains.” The Argus, February 16, 1945 “My Dad was a block contractor and we used to work 200 acres of vineyards between waterings. Dad was going to sign up to go to the war, but when he went into the drill hall and answered their questions and told them how many kids he had and with how many men had already been let go off the blocks they wouldn’t let him go. Oh he was mad as a march hare – of course us kids were all outside howling our eyes out, because we thought Dad was going away to the war.” Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel

“The Nichols Point Pumps – you used to be able to get a job there anytime. You would get double the wages you would get working on the blocks.“

With improved production techniques and the later mechanisation of the industry, crops in excess of 100,000 tons were produced regularly in Sunraysia from the 1940s to the 1990s. The huge crops were only possible because of the improving reliability and management of the pumping infrastructure at Psyche Bend, King’s Billabong and Nichols Point. As well as the four scheduled irrigations each year, the Trust was able to expand its task to include special irrigations for the purposes of frost prevention. Starting the pumps for each irrigation was a major task. “The Nichols Point Pumps – you used to be able to get a job there anytime. You would get double the wages you would get working on the blocks. Nichols Point used to have three firemen. The damned thing faced north and south, the boilers, and when you used to open the fire doors up, the flames would leap out. And when the wind was blowing from the south, you used to have to take the manhole cover off the chimney stack, get in there and cart a heap of wood in there and light a fire under the chimney so it went straight up to create the draft and get the air going through the boilers. It was the only way you could get it going. You could put kerosene in the wood in the firebox and stoke-hole but it’d just go out. It was a shocking place. I used to have to relieve at all the stations but they were good days.” Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel There was a strong camaraderie among the crews at “the pumps”. “Some funny things went on. It’s lonely down there, no lights, just a hurricane lamp until you got steam up and you could operate the little generator. At the Billabong Station we had a fellow called ‘Twisty’ Hollow and this one night we were starting up for a special frost irrigation. We were supposed to start the pumps at midnight. Twisty was supposed to

Spraying fruit on racks, circa 1940. Image courtesy Henry Tankard.

A wave of new settlers had started to arrive at Nichols Point from Italy, Yugoslavia and Greece in the wake of the First World War. After World War Two, another post-war immigration boom was occurring. Italians and Greeks took up properties around Nichols Point and became an integral part of the social fabric of the area.

be lighting the fires to warm the boilers up before we started the steam engines. You had to warm them up for eight hours. I went down there about 11 at night to start the steam plant up, you go down early. No one was there, no fires even lit. I walked the wood stacks, looked everywhere, called for him. I was scared he might have fallen in the ‘bong and it was winter time. But I eventually found him up at the Billabong Church. He was terrified.“I’m not going down there – the Devil’s down there,” he said. I finally convinced him to come back up with me, and we went to the fire box where he reckoned the devil was. I opened the door up, and there was a great, big Billy goat in there. It let out a great “baaaaaa”, and I guess I could see why he thought it was the devil! It was a practical joke that a couple of other blokes had played on Twisty – but if the goat had stayed up the other end of the box it would have burnt to death, though.” Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel “The white paint on the Nichols Point Pumping Station is actually limal, cement and cow manure. Bertie Kuchel worked with me at the pumps and he painted it on. I told him he was wasting his time. He said: ‘That’s all you know’. He told me when they lived in their little bag tent on the Billabong that’s what they coated the bags with to stop it from rotting. So it’s been there for 60 years and it’s stood the test. It’s there to stay!” Jim Frankel A wave of new settlers had started to arrive at Nichols Point from Italy, Yugoslavia and Greece in the wake of the First World War. After World War Two, another post-war immigration boom was occurring. Italians and Greeks took up properties around Nichols Point and became an integral part of the social fabric of the area. The change-over to mechanised fruit production practices had its beginning in the 1920s. Growers in the Nichols Point area were among the first to experiment with the new-age technology. “Fordson Tractor Stands the Test in Practical Cultivation: Mechanical field traction is as common in the U.S.A. and Canada as mechanical road traction. It apparently has “come to stay” at least in Australia, and of late has found favour in Sunraysia. Among the tractors that have a claim to attention is the Fordson, and this is because the users seem well satisfied with its work. Cut out mere stunting (say they) and the Fordson does a good day’s work with the next—does it economically and well. Recently “Sunraysia Daily’s” field representative took stock of the work of a 22 h.p. Fordson tractor on Mr. W.B. Chaffey’s well known “Vineyard” property at Irymple (Chateau Mildura). He learned that on ordinary cultivation work the consumption of low-grade kerosene had been about one gallon an hour. The work done at the Vineyard was the pulling easily, of a ten-cut Robinson disc that five horses found hard pull; the cultivation of twenty acres a day of vineyard land, dragging an 8ft. 6in. wide Harvey cultivator

(23 tynes) and full-width harrows, the centre tynes set to 7in.deep; and some sub-soiling of hard land at a depth of 18in. The subsoiling cuts were well made and the hard earth broken “well outward. This was a very severe test of the pulling power of the machine. The Fordson has three gears and a reverse, and in ordinary ploughing, on the intermediate gears, covers 21/2 to 3 miles an hour! Mr. “Jack” Dowley, manager of the Vineyard property, expresses himself well satisfied with the Fordson’s work, and declares the” tractor a practical asset on the block. Other users of the Fordson in the district are Mr. J. Gibson, of “Largo,” Nichols Point, and Mr. W. C. Jolley, of Curlwaa. On the Largo -property the Fordson draws a 3 furrow disc with 28 inch plates and a 5 furrow skim plough.” The Murray Pioneer, March 23, 1923 It took until well into the 1940s and 1950s before mechanisation was fully used on fruit properties. While trucks were being used to cart fruit and wood by the 1940s, it was not until the end of the 1950s that horses were phased out completely. “Down at the Billabong was Common Land, and everyone would put their dried off cows and horses down there for feed when they weren’t being used on the properties. Then when they wanted them they would go and get them and bring them home. You paid a small fee and when you wanted them, or when your cow was due to calf, you would go and get them. The only trouble with putting them in at the Billabong was that you might have to chase them all the way to Red Cliffs to get them. When we were kids, 11 or 12 or so, down at the iron gate we used to go down and drive the cattle into the water, and we’d grab a stick and hop on their back and turn them around back out to where the open plain was and ‘yippee’! They only let us do that three or four times, then they used to hear us coming and they’d be off!” Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel “There was a pound down at the Common in the very early days. My aunty’s father ran it – McKay. The Common was down right through the bend, but the pound was at the corner of First Street and Karadoc. Of course there were a lot of animals wandering in those days.” Edna Frankel “My brother had a vanguard van and my brother and we went down to the get the horse and lead her home. We got to the cattle ramp and trotted her across it – we didn’t realise it was there. She could have broken her leg. The next year Dad sent me down on the pushbike to get her. There were a few settlers down along there and one of them helped me catch her. But the old stinker of a horse wouldn’t lead away from the others. So I led her across an ant’s nest – I had trouble keeping up with her then!” Alec Hawtin

“When we were kids, 11 or 12 or so, down at the iron gate we used to go down and drive the cattle into the water, and we’d grab a stick and hop on their back and turn them around back out to where the open plain was and ‘yippee’! They only let us do that three or four times, then they used to hear us coming and they’d be off!”

Horse-drawn cultivator, circa 1905. Image courtesy Jim Hensilwood.

Re-spraying fruit on racks by hand to retain colour and hasten drying, circa 1935. Image courtesy Henry Tankard.

ABOVE Pruning currant vines, circa 1940. Image courtesy Henry Tankard. LEFT Irrigating eight year old apricots on Hensilwoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s property, Karadoc Avenue Nichols Point, circa 1902. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

“I started my life weeding paspalum ditches – the progressive growers at the time would have had concrete-lined ditches. But for those who didn’t the primary cleaner of the ditches was the house cow and the horses, where they were tethered. But if you wanted water to flow you had to get in and get the paspalum off the bottom by hand. The horses had multiple functions. But one of the difficulties with horse-drawn implements was their limited ability to clean things up on the property. There were two sets of disc with a rough plough-seat sitting on top, with a draught horse pulling it. They couldn’t afford to let too much in the way of cover crops grow because they couldn’t clean them up. The properties were ploughed with a single-furrow plough, and I think it was something like seven trips to a row.” Henry Tankard Planners began considering options to upgrade the irrigation pumps system in the 1940s.

“No matter what road you were on in Sunraysia you would be surrounded by grape vines.”

“The original plan was to dredge the Billabong to do away with Psyche Pumps – do the same as they did in Renmark, and that was gravitate the water up here to Central and then pump it out. Then when Jack Oram came here in the 1940s, an engineer with the FMIT he decided to investigate it further because there was a lot of salty water around. He dug a hole, and the hole is still down there, and it filled with salty water. They thought it could be just local water, so they put a six inch pump on it for a week, and it didn’t alter. That’s when they decided the Psyche pumps would stay down there.” Peter Wharton “No matter what road you were on in Sunraysia you would be surrounded by grape vines. We were in the midst of a dried vine fruit industry that was capable of producing 100,000 tonnes of dried fruit in a good year. Once out of Central Mildura (population 10,000) vines flowed out past Red Cliffs to the east and Merbein to the West. They grew on both sides of Deakin Avenue to the High School boundary and on Eleventh Street over the railway line into what is now suburbia. Only on the sandy ridges was there variety, where groves of citrus trees were planted.” Jim Henshilwood Severe droughts in the 1940s and 1950s created an era of dust storms, with irrigation channels being silted in as a result. In many cases, sand had to be shovelled out of the channels before the irrigation could start. Work on the block was hard. “We would turn fruit in and turn fruit out before I went to work each day. And with the Walthams we would still be working with them in May. People don’t realise how hard we worked in those days. Doug and I would go out doing some other blocks on contract with fresh or dried fruit, pruning. That was in addition to me having a full time job and Doug

running our own block and working in the packing shed. Honestly people don’t realise how hard we worked in those days and we thought nothing of it.” Betty Woods “I was greatly influenced by the colourful storytelling of my grandmother who would keep us entertained while we clipped Raisin de Dames – a table grape of the era. I think we had half an acre of them, they generated some cash. But they were prone to “hen and chicken” which is a problem where you get lots of full-sized round early maturing grapes, but also berries only partially developed. They were edible but looked radically different to the full sized fruit and had to be clipped off. And the way to encourage labour from teenagers and children was to entertain them with colourful stories. My grandmother had a great love of the land – when my grandfather died in 1934 there was a debt of about 600 pounds, accumulated partly by the opportunity to connect to the FMIT’s drainage scheme, which was installed as a Depression Project. I think the packer found a buyer for the land a couple of times for my grandmother who resisted all attempts to lose it, so she hung onto it.” Henry Tankard “The Murray River basically ran dry in the 1950s. There was hardly any water going down. They got to work and blocked off the river just below Psyche Pump. South Australia was furious. Our local blockies used to go down there at night with guns, because they were afraid the South Australians would come up and cut the river and let the water go. We had armed patrols down there. There was talk of war between South Australia and Victoria. And while they were waiting for the river to be blocked, all the properties here couldn’t get water. Then when the water came on, there was a lot of strife with people trying to pressure the water gangers, and who could get water and who couldn’t.” Doug Woods By the 1950s, tractors and their associated hydraulics systems were revolutionising the farm. Horse teams that had done the work on the blocks since settlement were being phased out. “When I came back to the property Patterson Engineering was a huge business in Mildura. That was a stage when a lot of new equipment was being invented for fruit blocks. Mainly because of the hydraulic revolution. All of a sudden we had these hydraulic hoses on tractors and we discovered we could run anything. Suddenly we had power to run knives, rotary hoes, all sorts of things, and Pattersons were at the forefront of that. Because you had around 3000 growers by this stage in Mildura I think, so if you could find something that most growers needed, you could sell 3000 of them.” Jim Henshilwood

“The Murray River basically ran dry in the 1950s. There was hardly any water going down. They got to work and blocked off the river just below Psyche Pump. South Australia was furious.”

“But we had all the weed problems you could imagine. There was no worthwhile implement until the first tractor was bought in 1848. We went contracting. It’s indicative of the sort of struggle people engaged in. It was an experience of hands in the dirt and struggle. There was great poverty in our household when I was a child. My Mum and Dad bought a ten acre dairy paddock owned by Arthur Weir the dairyman and one-time mayor of Mildura, and they set about planting that as their own little toe-hold in the land which was a progressive thing, and gradually it began to generate an income.” Henry Tankard “We had a few good years early on – we would grow 100 ton and at the best of times we got $1500 a ton. So we did ok for a while. But it was solid work. Somebody said to me: ‘How many days does it take to look after the block?’ And I said to him: ‘However many days there are in a month, that’s how many it takes!’ There was always something to do.” Jim Frankel “Jim was working three jobs at one stage and everything we got went back into the block to get us going.” Edna Frankel The 50-year old pumping system that had served the settlement was replaced in the 1950s. The FMIT built two main electric pumping stations – Psyche Bend and Central.

“It was an experience of hands in the dirt and struggle. There was great poverty in our household when I was a child.”

“The present arrangement differs from the original Chaffey layout, in which there were four main stations – Psyche Bend, Billabong, Nichols Point and Ninety Foot. The latter three of these stations have been replaced by one Central Station, situated at the old Ninety Foot site.” FMIT report “The new electric Central Pumping Station was commissioned in the mid to late 50s. It was refurbished completely from what was there before. The Psyche Pumps operated as wood-fired boilers for quite a while, then they put in an electric low-lift station beside it to fill the channel, which they could operate from the Central Pump Station. It resulted in the reconfiguration and decommissioning of areas of channels, and it was a very major rearrangement of the distribution system for the benefit of the management of water.” Barry Kilpatrick “They kept the main pumping station at Psyche of course and I don’t think they knew what to do with the Billabong one, and it just stayed there. The Nichols Point station became a scout hall. It must have been quite soon after the pumps were decommissioned because I went to cubs there when I was about eight, about 1956 or ’57. I was lucky enough, in about 1958

or 1959, to see them drop one of the smoke stacks on the old pumps. I was riding my bike around one Sunday afternoon down at Psyche and saw all these tyres lined up alongside the big smoke stack they used to use for the boiler. It was the lift pump, not the one down on the river, but the lift pump. There were all these guys down around there and next minute there was a huge explosion and the steel chimney came slowly down, and landed on the tyres. Everything that was there, at that particular pump is gone, and they built a brand new lift pump there. Even after they closed the pumps down, at Psyche they kind of boarded it up and had a bit of corrugated iron on one end, but you could still crawl through there. We used to crawl all over the pumps, spend days in there, no one hunted you out.” Brian Munroe In 1956, huge rains in New South Wales and Victoria resulted in the worst floods Australia had known. Communities around King’s Billabong and Nichols Point were at risk of inundation. “The Billabong area used to flood fairly regularly, but in 1956 the whole Billabong area was under water, and I’ve only ever seen it once like that since, during the 1960s. It didn’t concern me all that much – I was only about eight and it was more a great adventure. You could see the water from where we lived. It came up almost to Cureton Avenue. It came about halfway up Morpung Avenue between Cureton Avenue and the Billabong. There were Italian families who were living down there, and they all got flooded out. They just had to leave until the floods went down again. It came up to where Pyacks used to live, down from Cureton Avenue down towards Bruce’s Bend, it came about halfway along that road there. All the people down near the Billabong got flooded out, the Matoteks and all that crew. It was great after the floods went down because all the fruit racks, down in the Billabong area, the fish all got caught up in them. Everyone was down getting all the fish – it was great fun. Perch were a sucker for them!” Brian Munroe “The water came towards Nichols Point from both ways and it met. In the 1970 flood it only came in from one way – the levee bank kept it back and it didn’t get us. The water in ‘56 came up to the window sills on one of the houses on the block. Anything down in the bend went under water – McGinniskins was the only one who didn’t. Everyone had to go and stay with relations. Blockies fetched their tractors up the Wilkinsons up higher. We didn’t get much attention really because the ‘56 Olympics were on. We had good years after the water went down. The water dropped all the silt. I’ve worked all around the district, though, contracting and so on, and I always say Nichols Point has the best land in Sunraysia. You always got good crops.” Jim Frankel

“I was riding my bike around one Sunday afternoon down at Psyche and saw all these tyres lined up alongside the big smoke stack they used to use for the boiler... ...There were all these guys down around there and next minute there was a huge explosion and the steel chimney came slowly down, and landed on the tyres.”

“I can remember going with George Rankin from about where the Palms Caravan Park is down in a tin boat right across all the paddocks and across the racecourse into the golf course where we got off at the clubhouse and the water was right through the clubhouse up to the window sills. During the floods we had to maintain the levee banks and bring in sand to try to keep the water out. Truckloads and truckloads. In the 1970s we even were able to get the high ball balloons that they used to use out at the airport for weather forecasting. They were huge – the size of your backyard. And when the balloons came down they were obsolete. So we asked if we could use them, because they just used to throw them out. So that was what we did. Put them all along the levee bank to protect it.” Chas Watson “The racecourse was shifted from Sandilong Park out to public land between the Mildura Airport and South Merbein just for one year in 1956 to meet the needs of the racing fraternity during the flood. Because of course Sandilong Park went right under.” Barry Kilpatrick

“The water in ‘56 came up to the window sills on one of the houses on the block... Everyone had to go and stay with relations...We didn’t get much attention really because the ‘56 Olympics were on.”

By the 1950s, 60s and 70s, the Mildura irrigation settlement and its diverse horticultural industries was a strong and reliable economic performer. It seemed that the Chaffey Vision had, at last, come to fruition. “Prior to the advent of irrigation the carrying capacity of the land in what is now the Mildura settlement was one sheep to 4 hectares. Because of irrigation, however, Mildura is now a striking example of intense culture, and this so called poor country has been developed into one of the most closely settled primary producing districts in Victoria. Water is truly the lifeblood of the settlement, with subsurface drainage an essential counterpart, and the First Mildura Irrigation Trust, which is charged with a responsibility of maintaining these two facilities, fully realises the importance of the duty developing on it and the desirability of protecting and enlarging the service whenever possible.” FMIT Report, c1970 While it had taken 80 years to bring the vision to reality, growers were still regularly at the mercy of environmental and meteorological challenges. In 1971, 1973 and 1974 sultana crops were devastated by rain during the harvest. Growers adopted ‘salvage techniques’ – summer pruning and trellis-drying to try to save their crops but half the crop was ruined. The losses caused by untimely harvest rains prompted the growers to begin the phase-out of rack-drying and to rapidly take up trellis-drying and mechanised harvesting. Severe frosts devastated crops in the early 1980s. International oversupplies caused dried fruit prices to plummet to record lows, and the linking of Australian

dried fruit prices to the world market price brought further pricing pressure. A first phase of growers exiting from dried fruit growing began to occur. By the 1980s, the original pumping stations that were the foundation of the irrigation settlement were at risk of being lost. The pump and boiler infrastructure at some of the stations had been dismantled and sold off and the stations themselves were deteriorating and vulnerable to vandalism. The Psyche Bend Committee of Management decided in the early 1980s to restore the site. The Psyche Bend Pumping station is the oldest pumping configuration of its type in the world, and is now listed on the Victorian Heritage Register. In 1988, the Committee of Management enlisted the support of the Sunraysia Steam Preservation Society. “I was a commissioner of the FMIT for 18 years, and during the 1980s we decided that the early board had given the Psyche pumps to the council and the council virtually decided they didn’t want them, they were a nuisance. So when Ray Byrnes was with the FMIT we decided we would get them back from the council, with the intention to clean the pumps up and restore them to a static display so people could go and look at them. Mick Murphy was the FMIT engineer at the time, and he got the Steam Preservation Society down there to have a look at them – and they thought there wasn’t any reason why they couldn’t make the pumps go again. I laughed. I said there was no way! Eventually we recommissioned them in 1995.” Peter Wharton “I was on the (FMIT) trust board for quite a while with Neil Warhurst and he was a real motivator. He tracked down old photographs and so on. He played a big part in the origins of what’s down there now. But we all really responded to the enthusiasm of old Fred Mabey because we were only going to get the thing to turn over with compressed air. Fred had a real ability to track things down. Fred led the charge to bring the Steam Preservation Society in to do the restoration to produce the steam to actually get the engines turning over on steam. So it’s a genuine replication of what it was in the days of wood-fired boilers.” Barry Kilpatrick “I was involved from about 1990 and I just thought it was a lovely part of Mildura’s history. We all thought it was just a matter of time and we would get there. Every Sunday morning, then towards the end we started working on Wednesday nights. I was good at scraping rust off and removing possum poo and pigeon poo – unskilled labour I think you would call it. And enthusiasm! I think the attitude of the authorities was that ‘they’re idiots, they’ll never do it but don’t stand in their way – they just might’. And we did! In October 1995 we held the official opening day—it was a

Severe frosts devastated crops in the early 1980s. International oversupplies caused dried fruit prices to plummet to record lows, and the linking of Australian dried fruit prices to the world market price brought further pricing pressure. A first phase of growers exiting from dried fruit growing began to occur.

great day. The thing that prompted me to get involved initially was that so many of the volunteers at that time seemed to me to be so old – I thought many of them might not be able to see it through. I think you would have to put the ultimate success down to Fred Mabey. He had some experience driving steam trains in South Africa. He was push, push, push – he didn’t mind asking people to help and that’s the way to get things done, of course. Some of the other ones were George Cullen and also Les Williams, who was an old steam man from way back. Very thankfully all the blokes who were involved in the project all saw the opening day. It was magic. To work all that time and lo and behold it all worked. We always tell visitors that without irrigation Mildura would be another shopping town for the wheat and sheep farmers. Irrigation has made all the difference.” Maurie Wedlake Steam enthusiasts, community members and the Sunraysia Steam Preservation Society’s volunteers spent thousands of hours restoring the Psyche Bend pumping station, its pumps and boilers between 1988 and 1995.

“I think the attitude of the authorities was that ‘they’re idiots, they’ll never do it but don’t stand in their way – they just might’. And we did!“

“When electricity came to the site in the 1950s, the fourth pump was removed and replaced with an electric motor. To the best of our knowledge that fourth pump had never been used, it was kept as a spare for the other pumps – when it came to the crunch that pump didn’t have an impeller in it and we presume it had been taken out and used in one of the other pumps. That particular pump ended up in the Rio Vista lawns behind the engine that came from the Billabong building. Everybody assumed that pump and that engine belonged together, and we eventually figured out that they didn’t. The Psyche Pumps all had serial numbers that were sequential and we had photos that clearly identified that it wasn’t a Billabong pump. It was taken away from Rio Vista when there was a lot of nervousness about public liability and people climbing on exhibits and suing if they fell off and got injured. It ended up in the FMIT depot. We retrieved it, sandblasted it, took it out to Psyche, reinstalled it and painted it.” Maurie Wedlake A major aspect of the project was the reconstruction of the boiler house on the site of the 1917 boiler house. The reconstructed boiler house was to be as close as possible to the original in size and shape. “The boiler house was wrecked in the 1960s, the boiler and so forth had been sold off for scrap. But luckily the pumps and pumphouse had been left intact. Tony Waller and Bob McKenzie from the Mildura Lions Club were the main drivers to raise the money to buy back the boiler, and we got some Government grants to build the building. It was a fantastic community effort. When we began the preservation project I asked Gary Corless if he could build a boiler house from the original design. He originally said he couldn’t do it, but he went away for a couple of days and thought about it, then came back and said he’d thought of a way he could do it. Gary

constructed the building in two halves. He built the bottom half, then the top half and got a crane in to put the top half of the building onto the bottom half. The boilers we installed had been sitting in the railway workshops in Melbourne for 40 years.” Peter Wharton The Bend engine and pumps were recommissioned on October 11, 1995. “We didn’t really have a deadline until the FMIT told us that they would be celebrating their centenary in 1995, that’s when things got really moving. For the last 18 months or so it was all systems go. We had got the steam engine running a few weeks beforehand, but we couldn’t get it pumping water. There were any amount of opinions on what we were doing wrong and I think it was only the day before the official opening that we actually got water coming out. There are large gate-valves on the outlets and we had them fully open, and they don’t work when they are fully open. The inlet pipes are smaller than they should be, and if you have the outlets fully open they lose their prime in no time flat and don’t pump water. The FMIT had actually welded little pipes onto the inlet pipes – they would have hooked up an external diesel pump down the back to pump water into the inlets. It didn’t happen, thank goodness. We would have still had our tail between our legs!” Maurie Wedlake The irrigation infrastructure that drove the district had continued to advance throughout the 20th century, but so, too, had on-farm irrigation techniques. The first systems to use overhead sprays to irrigate crops had been developed in the 1930s. They had been adopted more widely during the 1960s, and other techniques using under-vine sprays were also being developed. By the 1990s, the furrow and flood irrigation systems that had been the foundation of the settlement had all but disappeared. Water-conserving drip irrigation and low-level sprays were favoured for reasons of environmental benefit and cost. By the late 20th century, dried fruit prices had fallen to the extent that most growers were struggling for viability. Growers in the Nichols Point area began to diversify in order to remain profitable. With the wine industry booming and table grapes more lucrative, growers began the rapid removal of sultana vines. “We really did think that if the dried fruit industry every crashed Mildura would just disappear. But that hasn’t happened. It’s just got a life of its own. To go from 3000 growers and all the hangers-on, the water gangers, the engineers, and so on, I think at one stage we were told that for every dollar we made on the land it went around the district 2.9 times before it disappeared. We thought we were indispensable. But to go from growing

“We had got the steam engine running a few weeks beforehand, but we couldn’t get it pumping water. There were any amount of opinions on what we were doing wrong and I think it was only the day before the official opening that we actually got water coming out.”

occasionally 100,000 tonne, and averaging about 60 or 70, down to around 10. It’s a huge drop.” Jim Henshilwood

Growers in the Nichols Point area began to diversify in order to remain profitable. With the wine industry booming and table grapes more lucrative, growers began the rapid removal of sultana vines.

From the 1990s, the shift away from horticulture also prompted an accelerated move to more residential and lifestyle development in the Nichols Point and King’s Billabong area, and ushering in yet another era in the area’s development.

1880-1990s

From the first significant white settlement of Nichols Point and King’s Billabong, the area’s prevailing economic driver has been horticulture, with only a handful of commercial businesses in the area.

The ‘Red Store’, Billabong, circa 1939-52. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

The Red Book offered potential settlers at Nichols Point ten acre blocks at 15 pounds an acre (for agricultural blocks) and 20 pounds per acre (for fruit cultivation lands). The Red Book advised that agricultural and grazing land sales in Victoria had been rising for the previous five years; recent sales at Colac realised from 15 to 40 pounds per acre for blocks of 120 acres, while potato land was between 60 and 70 pounds an acre at Warrnambool. Settlers were lured readily to Nichols Point by the affordability of the land and the effusive prospects outlined for the Mildura Settlement in The Red Book. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is felt that the very exceptionally desirable and advantageous conditions of colonial settlement that are here offered are such as will be sure to attract people of the right sort, namely, the industrious, temperate, thrifty, intelligent, skilful, clean and good living of all classes. This will not be the ordinary kind of rough-and-ready place where all comers will find themselves equally at home; nor is it a place where mere rude labour is likely to secure its best reward. Everything will be done to economise the expenditure upon physical labour by the employment of every available labour saving machinery. The guide by the active, observant, painstaking mind, and not mere muscular strength, is the chief factor in the success of orange growing or the cultivation of the vine. Men, therefore, of various sorts and conditions who have a taste for the enjoyments and occupations of

rural life, and especially under the genial and life-prolonging influences of a magnificent climate – a climate full of sunshine, but without exhausting heat – will find here, if not an Eldorado, probably as near an approach to a perfect field of colonisation as can anywhere be met with.” The Red Book Because of its location between Mildura and the proposed irrigation pumps, available land at Nichols Point and King’s Billabong was readily taken up. However, because of its proximity to Mildura, residents’ day-to-day business activity was, and still is, largely carried out in Mildura. “I often think of the days we would go in the horse and gig into Mildura. We would sit in the gig for what seemed like hours, then pull up at the horse stalls. The horse knew where to go. The horse my father had, if you went up Ninth Street and past the Working Man’s Club you couldn’t turn her away from it. You might turn her head away, but she’d still go in there with her legs. She’d go straight to the stalls and you’d have to jump out of the cart and go and look in all the feed boxes to see if there’s any chaff left from the last one, so you didn’t have to use the bit you had with you.” Gordon Smith Mildura was established by the Chaffeys as a prohibition colony – alcohol could not be sold. The Chaffeys had asked the Victorian Parliament to prohibit the opening of bars or taverns in the settlement as they believed, from their Californian experience, these had a detrimental effect. “There are ample land reserves at the Irrigation Colonies for every kind of desirable and civilised purposes, such as churches, halls and reading rooms, schools, parks gardens and the like…at Ontario California there are no drinking bars and the settlers there will not allow any to be set up; and although Messrs Chaffey themselves are not teetotallers, they are in thorough sympathy with the unanimous feeling of the settlers in that respect. But while there is to be no promiscuous and enticing vending of intoxicating drinks on the Murray River irrigation territories, there will, of course, be no interference with personal liberty as regards the private consumption of wines and spirits in any way whatever.” The Red Book The Temperance movement had a strong hold in the settlement, but the prohibition of drinking establishments caused endless community debate. “By law public houses were not permitted in the settlement, a position that pleased the teetotal element, but those who wished it could obtain alcohol and did not begrudge the non-drinkers their abstinence. The usual source of solace to the convivial was a club. In May 1893 two social

Mildura was established by the Chaffeys as a prohibition colony – alcohol could not be sold.

clubs were proposed. The Mildura Club, which, due to a lack of suitable accommodation, had been wound up in 1890, planned a revival, and the Mildura Settlers Club was formed. The Cultivator voicing the sentiments of the prohibitionists, objected to these clubs seeking liquor licences, but the editor did note that the law did not prohibit anyone bringing liquor into Mildura for their own use, or to form a club and apply for a licence… Residential hotels could only obtain a licence to sell colonial wines, restaurants couldn’t even do that! As a result, dubious establishments thrived, offering the working man, in particular, a place to congregate and indulge in a glass of beer or spirits, and there was a constant stream of court cases when authority raided the so-called ‘sly-grog’ shops.” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura

It was ironic that one of the largest early businesses at Nichols Point would be in wine-making and distillation at the Chaffey’s own winery, Chateau Mildura, in Belar Avenue.

“Had the promoters had an hotel built and obtained a licence for it, the position would have been different. In a climate like ours, the land was thirsty, and, as it turned out, the population was also… By 1892 sly groggeries were a by-word – no trouble to get liquor supplies, wholesale or retail, from the meanest shack in the township, to the Rising Sun Hotel, away out on 11th Street, in what was then the bush. The little Customs Officer strutted around importantly, but scored little – his visit was a standing joke.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura It was ironic that one of the largest early businesses at Nichols Point would be in wine-making and distillation at the Chaffey’s own winery, Chateau Mildura, in Belar Avenue. The Chateau’s original 150 acre vineyard was among the first vineyards planted in the Mildura settlement in 1888. Its first vintage was produced in 1891 in a bough shelter and, in the following year, a triple-gable brick winery was built. Despite the clarets receiving some favourable early reviews, the winery’s original table wine venture was unsuccessful. “THE MILDURA SETTLEMENT – AN ANGASTON VISITOR – (Fulton Salter)…It may interest vinegrowers elsewhere to learn that the winemaking industry is practically extinct in Mildura, the winegrape having been almost all grafted with the sultana, gordo, or currant. At Chateau Mildura, Mr. Chaffey’s wine cellar, which was one of the places visited by Mr Salter, out of 200 acres of wine grape vines, there is not a single acre left ungrafted. This process of conversion has been going on for some years, and there are not now more than 10 or 20 acres of wine grapes left in the whole settlement, although at one time there were four or five smaller cellars in operation in addition to Chateau Mildura. The Mildura climate is not favourable to the production of a good class of wine.” The Adelaide Register, December 19, 1904

Settlers pushed in the 1890s for a still for brandy production to be established south of Mildura. They believed it would allow the profitable use of their surplus grape crop, given the difficulty of getting fresh, or even dried fruit, to market without the benefit of a railway. “From at least the end of 1893 there was a lively discussion as to the pro and cons – and the economics of producing brandy and early in 1894 an application was made to the Minister of Customs for a licence to distill. This was refused, and in April a meeting was called to discuss the problems and to decide whether to proceed or not to obtain a licence. The meeting came out strongly in favour of the proposal to make brandy, and a deputation was arranged to wait upon the Minister to ascertain the reason for his rejection of the application. They were told by the Minister that he had refused permission in the light of a very large petition from Mildura teetotallers.” A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura Ultimately, the 1890s depression and the collapse of the Chaffey company prevented the proposal for South Mildura being progressed. However, in 1910 brandy stills were installed at Chateau Mildura at Nichols Point. Wine production had been halted at the site years earlier, but in 1910 it recommenced production, this time of brandies and fortifying spirits. The brandy production continued until the 1950s, and Chateau Mildura continued to produce sherry until 1997. (In 2002, Chateau Mildura was sold to Lance Milne, a fourth-generation horticulturist. In 2005, Psyche Wines produced the first table wine vintage at Chateau Mildura for 100 years. Lance Milne has established a museum dedicated to the Chaffeys and the pioneering of the Mildura region.) Despite the production of wine, brandy and sherry, the settlement remained dry, with the exception of the Mildura Club (established in 1888), the Settlers Club (1893) and the Workingman’s Club (1894). The operator of the Coffee Palace (now the Grand Hotel), a Miss Williams, obtained a licence for the sale of ‘Colonial wine’ in 1906, and began serving alcohol on New Year’s Day 1907. “Mildura, long-regarded by the Temperance Party as a model settlement, has fallen from grace. Hitherto residents had to depend on clubs or upon their individual efforts to obtain liquid refreshment of an intoxicating character. Those who have not been thus provided for have long laboured under a disability. The removal of the prohibition that has hitherto been maintained was, therefore, swiftly taken advantage of and in two days Mildura put up a record. Up to 5 o’clock today the police made nine arrests for drunkenness — a number which exceeded that of the arrests for this offence during the whole of last year.” The South Australian Register, January 3, 1907

Despite the production of wine, brandy and sherry, the settlement remained dry, with the exception of the Mildura Club (established in 1888), the Settlers Club (1893) and the Workingman’s Club (1894).

Throughout its history, the local commercial and social activity of the Nichols Point community was played out almost exclusively around the general stores in the district. The first general store at Nichols Point was operated by the Gregory family.

“After sowing a crop of onions, which was growing nicely, a dense sandstorm came down in all its fury, burying and ruining the lot. Mr Gregory…got a fine plot of cauliflowers going, which a plague of locusts devoured completely. For a time everything went wrong...”

George Gregory and his wife Eliza arrived from England in 1888-89, and initially took up land on heavy clay soil in what is now known as Flora Avenue, around the Old Aerodrome Ovals. “Quite a number of settlers had blocks which were a failure there through no fault of their own, so…(the Chaffeys) arranged to exchange this land for other areas better situated…the Gregory’s block was exchanged for 10 acres near the Nichols Point pumps. It was unplanted, unfenced and full of rabbit warrens. Their former block was abandoned, and their home, belongings and implements removed to Nichols Point, where they had to begin all over again with greater hardships and handicaps. After sowing a crop of onions, which was growing nicely, a dense sandstorm came down in all its fury, burying and ruining the lot. Mr Gregory…got a fine plot of cauliflowers going, which a plague of locusts devoured completely. For a time everything went wrong, and it seemed almost the last straw when a herd of goats from the direction of the river broke the fence, bore down upon a potato crop and ruined it. However the land was finally planted up with vines and oranges, though again, there was a great deal of trouble over the water.” Obituary, E.S. Gregory by Alice Lapthorne The Gregorys eventually succeeded and expanded their holdings at Nichols Point. “As time went on Mr Gregory acquired 50 acres of vineyard, and also conducted the post office and store at Nichols Point. He had occasion to go to Mildura frequently and the Nichols Point people used to get him to bring their mail and various parcels back with him. In the end he had so many to cater for in this respect that he opened a shop.” Obituary, E.S. Gregory by Alice Lapthorne The earliest records of advertisements for the Gregory’s store date back to 1902. The store was located at the corner of Cureton Avenue and Irymple Avenue. The store offered “goods at the lowest prices for cash…and Settlers’ requisites of every description, including nails, cases, papers etc”. Its list of stock was extensive – “grocery, drapery, crockery, ammunition, boots and shoes, ironmongery, cutlery, axes, handles, wedges etc”. The store also became the site of the first telephone for the local area.

“Cameron D Young directs attention to the necessity for a telephone chamber at Nichols Point. The telephone is situated in the Nichols Point Store, and is not closed in any way whatever. The consequence is that it is impossible to discuss private and business matters over the telephone, since every word can be heard by all and sundry who happen to be in the store. Irymple, Merbein and Mildura post offices each have a private telephone box. Why not Nichols Point?” The Mildura Cultivator, August 16, 1913 The store was operated for a period by George Lane of Mildura but was closed for a time towards the end of the First World War. It is unclear if the store re-opened before being sold to the Morris family in 1921. “The J.G.Gregory 50 acre horticultural property at Nichols Point was sold to H.G.Morris from Fitzroy North for the sum of 13,500 pounds on November 7th, 1921. The property represented one quarter of the two hundred acres bounded by Irymple and Koorlong Avenues and 5th and 11th Streets. Its frontage was to the south east corner facing 5th Street and Irymple Avenue. H.G. Morris was a successful builder and home decorator and owned property all over Melbourne and in regional areas all of which had to be sold up to settle for the Gregory property. With an average wage in 1921 of two pounds a week the property cost 6750 working weeks. On an average wage today of $500 per week by 6750 working weeks this indicates the price paid as an equivalent today would be $3,375,000. The property included a main dwelling fronting 5th Street which included the local shop plus sheds and a blacksmith’s shed, a large horse stable and two workman’s dwellings facing Irymple Avenue. Also included were basic cultivating equipment and three draught horses. It was basically a dried fruits property producing currants, sultanas and gordos but included significant plantings of Navel and Valencia oranges, peaches and pears. H.G.Morris had four sons and four girls. Two of the sons Arthur and Frank took over the property in 1931 when their father retired to Melbourne. A notice in Sunraysia Daily stated :- ‘George James Gregory, retired horticulturist, late of Mildura, who died on June 21, 1925, left real estate worth 2100 pounds and personal property of 10,514 pounds to his widow, in trust for her children’.” Des Morris “The closing of the Nichols Point Store meant the temporary closing of the Postal Receiving Office, but new premises are now used. A Postal Receiving box has been placed at the corner of Tenth Street and Olive Avenue. A Postal Receiving Office has been opened at the Billabong and a tri-weekly mail service established.” Mildura Cultivator, August 10, 1918 The Post Office operated for a period on what became known as Dowley’s Corner (at the corner of Fifth Street and Irymple Avenues).

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“The telephone is situated in the Nichols Point Store, and is not closed in any way whatever. The consequence is that it is impossible to discuss private and business matters over the telephone, since every word can be heard by all and sundry who happen to be in the store.”

Another store was opened at Nichols Point in Cureton Avenue to service the Nichols Point Primary School. “It was built by Frank Jenner. When more houses were built in the area and the school continued to expand, Mr Jenner built another store on the site where it is now (on Fifth Street). A Mr and Mrs Lamb, who were in the first store, took over the new store. Mrs Lamb cooked pies and pasties and supplied them to the workers who were digging a drainage system for the new houses being built in the area. Mrs Lamb was paid by the Government. Muriel Gray (nee Lauder) worked in the store for the Lambs from 1937. Arthur and Joan Davey took over from the Lambs, then Gerald and Joyce Austin, then Brian Murnane, then the D’torkenzys. (The current owners are John and Michelle Mihaljevic).” Ray Smith “Frank Jenner did all sorts of philanthropic things for the hospital and other places, but he was a great character of the Nichols Point community. He was a great feature of the annual school fetes – he had a movie projector and used to show cartoons and it was one of the things that was really looked forward to. Frank had a great slide that he’d built on his property and a great playground. He didn’t have a family of his own but was an institution in the Nichols Point community.” Henry Tankard

“Mrs Lamb cooked pies and pasties and supplied them to the workers who were digging a drainage system for the new houses being built in the area.”

“We went to the Nichols Point school and soon after we started there, there was a lady by the name of Mrs Lamb, who started selling pies and lollies and things from the back room of her house. She must have prospered somewhat on that, and built the shop where it is now, across the road from the school. We used to have to walk a bit to get to Mrs Lamb’s house (Koorlong Avenue area), but when she built, she built the store close to the school.” Roy Ferry The Billabong Store was situated at the corner of 11th Street and Cureton Avenue, and was known as Red Store; it was also a Caltex service station. It was initially operated by the Collins family then by E Campbell (1940s). It was then operated by Henry Witcher and his family until 1950. “It was Mrs Collins’s store. You could never get an iced drink because there was no refrigeration. The drinks used to sit out on the verandah in a box.” Gordon Smith “The only shop that was at the Billabong was called the “Red Store”, and it was owned by Henry Witcher when we came on the scene.” Roy Ferry “Our place used to be called the “Red Store”. The shop and the house were combined in one building, with the shop having an internal door to the

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lounge room. Lighting was by kerosene lantern, and for the shop, a pressure lamp was suspended from the ceiling on a string. A kerosene lantern had a tank of kerosene and a wick suspended in the tank carried kerosene to the burner, which was in a glass chimney. When the flame was turned up too high the chimney turned black with soot. The pressure lamp was similar to a gas camping lantern, but was fuelled by liquid spirit under pressure. Once the mantle was lit the fuel tank was pumped up with a small pump built into it. Too much pumping built the pressure up too much, and I remember one occasion when the lamp caused a fireball explosion.” Henry Witcher “The Red Store was sold by the Witchers to Jim Rooney (1950-55), then was taken over by Roy McDonald (1955-59); Joe Dobron (1959-60); Jack and Margaret Sloane (1960-62); Gordon and Phyllis Hensgen (1962-67) and Kirks.” Ray Smith Mail deliveries had started to King’s Billabong during the First World War. Even though there was a store, King’s Billabong was never recognised officially with its own Post Office or postcode. The Red Store operated unofficially as a post office, though, and early pictures of the building show a sign reading “Receiving Office”. “Even though the area has always been known as King’s Billabong, because it never had a post office, it’s all termed Nichols Point – but Nichols Point is three kilometres round the other corner. All the people here live in Nichols Point, according to Australia Post.” Ray Smith In 1967 the site was bought by Lindsay and Sandra Telfer, who pulled down the building and built their home. There were several dairies in the area, and there was a butcher shop for a time in Cureton Avenue. A trapper also operated in the area to supply rabbits to butchers. “I remember the butcher shop from when I was about six – my brother did his apprenticeship there. They used to put ice in there – that was the freezer room. Then they would do deliveries on the horse and cart. He used to kill his own meat – he had a slaughter yard. It was near where Woodsie’s is now, and my brother learnt his trade there. They used to deliver meat right out to Irymple.” Gordon Smith “Many people did not own a car and as a result of this many of life’s staple goods were delivered to the front door. We had no electricity until 1952 so perishable food stuffs was preserved in ice chests. The Ice Man visited on a regular basis. The Greengrocer had a horse drawn vehicle and dropped in once a week. The butcher was slightly more modern with a motorised van.

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The Red Store operated unofficially as a post office, though, and early pictures of the building show a sign reading “Receiving Office”.

He would open the back to display his wares and had a palm frond that he used to discourage the flies but in spite of meat being exposed to heat and dust I can’t remember anyone becoming ill from “turned” meat. Our house was some 300 metres back from the road so a box was built beside the front gate to receive bread and milk. The Baker would leave a freshly baked loaf (unsliced of course) if money was in the box. A tin pail was there also for the milkman to fill with milk straight from the Dairy, the milk had to be collected quickly on hot mornings to stop it from curdling.” Jim Henshilwood

“Our house was some 300 metres back from the road so a box was built beside the front gate to receive bread and milk. The Baker would leave a freshly baked loaf (unsliced of course) if money was in the box.”

“From Psyche Pumps up it was a rabbit trapping area. There are two trees still there where the trapper would hang his pairs of rabbits over a stick, and cover them with a long hessian bag. The rabbit collector would come around and pick them up from the holders and take them to the coolers at the back of McEwans. That would happen every few days. I think the trappers often used to leave a good number of females – let them go to ensure they kept breeding. In the early days of irrigation, pretty much every irrigation they would flood the areas beside the fruit blocks, and that meant there was plenty of feed for the rabbits.” Doug Woods The regular journey to Mildura to do business in town has been a necessity throughout Nichols Point’s history. It was something of a ritual and a social outing, as well as a trip to purchase necessities and pay accounts. “Fridays when I was a little fellow, Dad would put on a coat and a tie and pay the bills. Mum would go down to Nash’s grocery on the corner of Lime and 8th and we would get the groceries. Dad would go back to the Mildura club, have a couple of beers and a game of snooker Mum and I would sit in the ladies’ lounge and have a lemonade then we would go home. He would always wear a coat and tie and Mum would always get dressed up in the Sunday best to go into town once a week.” Jim Henshilwood The outbreak of the Second World War meant that, in many cases, women and children were doing much of the work at home. The war created dramatic labour shortages that threatened the collapse of fruit properties and caused huge problems for the fruit harvest. “So acute is the labour shortage at Mildura that schools may close to enable the children to help harvest the four million pound crop of currants early next year. The shortage has been caused mainly by enlistment of 2000 young men from the district, and a drift by others to munitions work in the cities.” The Argus, December 27, 1940

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“Blanket exemption from military call-ups for essential rural workers, as long as they remain in their particular industries, may be sought soon by senior Federal Ministers. They are alarmed at the effect of labour shortages on the major primary producing industries. Estimates show that the drift to munitions works in the cities and military call-ups and enlistments have taken about 85 percent of the workers from some rural industries, which have been placed in a perilous position….unless sufficient labour can be found within the next few weeks fruit may have to be left on the trees in the Mildura district, where the estimated shortages are 5000 men.” The Mercury, Hobart, January 27, 1942 “During the war, before I was born, Dad was at war, so Mum, Aunty Sheila and sometimes Aunty Beth looked after the shop and post office. One night a drunk or hobo was sitting in the back of the ute when Mum went out to see what he thought he was up to – with a .22 calibre rifle under her arm! He decided to go elsewhere in a hurry!” Henry Witcher “There were quite a lot of occupations that were reserved occupations – people in those jobs didn’t get into the Army unless they wanted to. My father was number two at Merbein in the State Rivers because the home fires had to be kept burning, particularly for water for the population.” Ian and Jean Hinks “As you go along Morpung Avenue and around the end of the drainage channel and head towards the Billabong, just there’s a big hole on the side of the Billabong like a big dam thing dug there. It’s probably just full of reeds now. Now there is two schools of thought, and I think my old man’s is the right one. When I was a kid it was full of rubbish, the first dead cow I ever saw was in there. But it used to be, Dad reckoned, in the 30s and 40s, there wasn’t much fuel and it used to be a charcoal burning pit, where they used to burn timber in there. There would be a sluice gate there and when the coals got to a certain heat they would flood it and quench it all and turn it into charcoal, then they would take the charcoal out, sell it for fuel, then start the whole process again. The other guys reckoned it might have been for the building for the bricks that they built the pumps out of. But I don’t reckon it would have been for that. I think they would have dug a hole closer to the pumps if they had been going to do that. Up until the end of the Second World War fuel was really hard to get – even motor cars used to run on charcoal burners, and Stanley Steamers and things like that. So I think that’s probably what it was for.” Brian Munroe “I was just a bare 18 years old and I wanted to go to the war, but they wouldn’t take me. I was a dental mechanic and see nobody could take my job. But if you were a blockie, anyone could go. I’m not saying I was a class above you, but my job made me a class above you. See a butcher

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“There were quite a lot of occupations that were reserved occupations – people in those jobs didn’t get into the Army unless they wanted to.”

Drying ground at Levienâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s property, Nichols Point, circa 1903. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

Spraying dormant vines on Campbellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s property, Nichols Point, circa 1917. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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couldn’t go either – my brother couldn’t go because anybody couldn’t just go in and break a body of beef. I went down to Melbourne to sign up and when I said I was a dental mechanic they made me a clerk. I knew nothing about office work.” Gordon Smith After the war, many of the men returning home took the opportunity to retrain. “Before I came out of the Army and went to the Manpower office and told them I had been on the shovel before I went in, and they told me to do the construction course and be a carpenter, so I did. I did six months under tuition at the high school then you got put out with builders. It took about three years. We bought 10 acres at the corner of Irymple Avenue and Eleventh Street and I built our home. It was my first big project and I wasn’t even really qualified. When we moved in it didn’t have much in it. Coming out of the Army for four years on five shillings a day, you didn’t have much in the bank. We moved in in 1949 before we even had any lining on the walls, and we needed to get more money to finish it off. I remember a bank manager coming out to look at the house. He looked at the house and he looked at the two little kids we had at the time and said: “You poor girls”. And I didn’t get the loan! We didn’t have town water supply, and there was no irrigation water on the block. We used to get water for the washing and the garden out of the silt boxes that were part of the underground drainage lines. Our first vehicle was an old 1929 Chev ute. We bought an International 25-hundred weight truck in 1954 and that was our car as well as the truck for the business. Then in 1957 we managed a car.” John Miller The post-war, baby boom years of the 1950s marked a period of relative prosperity in Nichols Point and Sunraysia, as it was across the country. Doug and Betty Woods had moved to Mildura from southern Victoria as newlyweds in the late 1950s. They bought a block, living initially in two pickers’ huts. The huts eventually evolved into a spacious family home – a common scenario in the 1940s and 50s. In the 1970s, they opened a highly-successful tourism business called Woodsies Gem Shop. “All our trips when the kids were growing up were camping trips – all my money from working would go towards our trips. Mostly we would go rock hunting with tents, pick and shovel. We went fossicking to White Cliffs initially, but eventually we went all over Australia collecting rocks and valuable stones.” Betty Woods Tourism would become increasingly important in the Nichols Point and King’s Billabong area from the 1970s.

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“I remember a bank manager coming out to look at the house. He looked at the house and he looked at the two little kids we had at the time and said: “You poor girls”. And I didn’t get the loan! We didn’t have town water supply, and there was no irrigation water on the block.”

“We really opened the business in 1972. Grapes were going down and we had a lot of Waltham Cross grapes, with large seeds. With the style of homes changing and carpets coming into homes kids would spit the seeds out onto the carpets, people didn’t like the Walthams so much anymore. We were doing stones and jewellery just because it was a hobby. Doug had a shed out the back, and people kept coming to the shed to look at Doug’s rocks, but he was finding a lot were going missing. It was really Mike, our eldest son, who pushed the issue, and said that we needed to get a shop established. It was pretty hard to get it approved by the council, because it was in a horticultural zone, but eventually it got through.” Betty Woods “We never meant it to be a business. The boys were very happy being carpenters, and the girls were very happy being nurses. But things were so busy they gave up their other jobs, and came into the business. It was a boom time in tourism. People were very interested in the minerals and it was also the time when busloads of tourists were coming to Mildura to play the pokies in New South Wales. The trips were subsidised by the clubs, so they were very cheap. The tourists needed something to do before the clubs opened up, and we were part of a big boom in tourism. I remember counting 11 coaches outside the shop one particular day. We added the café, building that at night while we were still trading, because people needed somewhere for refreshments.” Doug and Betty Woods

“We never meant it to be a business. The boys were very happy being carpenters, and the girls were very happy being nurses. But things were so busy they gave up their other jobs, and came into the business.”

Another business established in the early 1970s was the Bruce’s Bend kiosk, which operated between Billabong Road and Bruce’s Bend. “The kiosk was the old kiosk from Apex Park. We bought the building. We towed it over on wheels with the help of a local traffic cop at the time! We sold everything you could ever need. There would be people camped right through the area in the busy times back then – we used to see all types there. People came from everywhere just to camp and it was a big industry for Mildura. We had see-saws and slides down in the bottom paddocks for the kids. There were kids riding motorbikes, people fishing. We would sell supplies, soft drinks, ice creams, fishing licences. We would make our own sinkers – I can remember sitting up til one in the morning making sinkers!” Kevin Davison The latest in luxury domestic holidays in the 1970s and 1980s, were on houseboats. “Houseboats would ring us up and we would make up their orders.We would have three or four people serving in the kiosk at weekends but Easter and Christmas time were huge. The shed out the back of the kiosk would be stacked full of soft drinks, and we would sell ute-loads of watermelons.

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ABOVE Levien’s drying ground, Nichols Point, circa 1903. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society. LEFT ‘Oruru’ the Wilkinson property, Nichols Point, drying and boxing fruit, circa 1900. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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It was camping and fishing, but local people too – people would be knocking on the door from seven in the morning, and Diana would be in Mildura not long after seven for the milk and papers. She would throw the papers out on her way back from the Palms Caravan Park back to Bruce’s Bend. I worked at McKendrick’s in town, then I would go back the other way when I went to work and throw the papers out that way. Anything that McKendricks had left over from sales we would sell at the kiosk. Plants, we were even selling cupboards at one stage!” Kevin Davison Wayne Roberts arrived at Mildura in 1973 and began building houseboats, with a dream of establishing a fleet of hire boats. He needed to find a suitable spot to set up, and in 1981 he established a marina on a 40 hectare site at Bruce’s Bend from which to operate his 15 River Queen houseboats.

“The shed out the back of the kiosk would be stacked full of soft drinks, and we would sell ute-loads of watermelons. It was camping and fishing, but local people too – people would be knocking on the door from seven in the morning...”

“I had built around 40 boats in Mildura, and had been looking for a place to set up a marina. Bruce’s Bend looked a natural. I wanted somewhere to base a commercial hire boat fleet, but I didn’t ever envisage that the marina would become home for more than 50 boats. A chap approached me not long after the marina opened and asked if he could moor his boat there, and it just grew from there. Bruce’s Bend was a ready-made marina off the river and it had the support of the then Forestry Commission because it would reduce the number of mooring sites on the river itself.” Wayne Roberts The last of the River Queen houseboats were phased out after a big fire in the marina in 2003. However, the Bruce’s Bend Marina continues to provide commercial mooring sites to private owners.

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1880s-1990s

While many of the Nichols Point settlers were living subsistence lives, either on wages or on their own properties, there were some quite significant homes in the local district.

At â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Villa Margaritaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, Nichols Point, circa 1903. Jack, Mr Paull, nursemaid Katherine Born, Mrs Paull and Winslow Paull. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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In the early days, many had relocated from Southern Victoria and significant numbers were from England – so many Nichols Point and King’s Billabong settlers were unaccustomed to the harsh Mallee climate. “The conditions were especially hard for the women folk – none of the facilities to which they had been accustomed – for most of them the climatic conditions were altogether different – cooking in the open air – nowhere to keep butter, meat, milk and so forth. They did the best they could, but it imposed a great strain on them, looking after their children as well. It was bad enough while the steamers were running, but when the river traffic ceased, the inconveniences were terrific. The storekeepers laid in what stocks they could to tide over the low river period. These consisted almost entirely of tinned goods – tinned butter and condensed milk, and, on occasion, the low river period lasted longer than expected, and living became well nigh impossible. The tinned butter became rancid and uneatable and what was brought by coach was just as bad.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura “I can remember pushing up and down on the old washing machine. It had bellows on the bottom and you had to work it with a handle to agitate the washing. You would pump it by hand.” John Miller

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“Cooking was done on a wood stove. Above a firebox was a cast iron plate to put saucepans on and under the firebox was an oven. Some people even had a stove with a water tank next to the firebox, and thus had hot water. To heat the bath water, a chip heater was used. It burned wood chips in a firebox, around which was wound the water pipe. Cold water in and hot water out!” Mike Witcher “The brick houses near the Billabong Pumps, they were the engineers’ homes on the Billabong Pumps. In Cooke Street down near the Billabong along from the Billabong Pumps there was only a dirt track and Crown Land. Up the top end, the O’Neil’s lived in a great big house there, but the blokes who worked on the pumps used to build a little modest cottage out of galvanised iron and anything they could lay their hands on, and build it on that Crown Land down near the Billabong. When they built the new Central Pumps, they told old Toddy Sloane, who lived there, they were going to make him move out and bulldoze his house. But Toddy used to pay rates to the shire, and I told him they couldn’t do that because he had first possession – that if he was paying rates, he owned it. And all those little houses there were the same. Ferry’s used to live there. They had a house there where the cattle yards were, and they used to grow their vegetables and they were self-sufficient. But there were houses all along there right back to the Billabong wood-stacks. They were humpies, then they improved them as the family grew and that, because they were working at the pumps. The forestry mob made it into a reserve, and they made all the people, Ferrys and all these other people, to move off. But all the people in Cooke Street, they weren’t removed for some reason.” Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel

A report was presented to the Mildura Council in 1936 drawing attention to the problem of humpies and shacks along the riverbank. It was stated that in the district there were no less than 225 of these, where a large number of people were living in “slum conditions”. It was stated that, in these very unhygienic conditions, were living a large number of children of school age, but it was difficult to impose any regulations regarding their school attendance. “It is reported from Mildura that the growth of the slum population along the river bank at Mildura is worrying the council there, which, apparently, has no authority to prevent families from occupying hessian humpies and from living ”in most unhygienic conditions”. The slum area at Mildura is known as ‘Charcoal Bend’, and its population is nearly 400, including 219 children. The men are mostly unemployed on sustenance or relief work. The Government, which is hoping to do something about slum areas in the city, is to be asked to prevent the spread of slums along the lovely Murray.” The Adelaide Advertiser, February 15, 1937

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“It is reported from Mildura that the growth of the slum population along the river bank at Mildura is worrying the council there, which, apparently, has no authority to prevent families from occupying hessian humpies and from living ”in most unhygienic conditions.”

“All along on the inside of King’s Billabong, families coming to Mildura during the Depression with nothing would camp along on not the river side, the inside, looking up towards the blocks. A lot of Mildura families started there. They were humpies or primitive dwellings. There was permanent water they would have chooks, grow their vegetables and the father would go off to work. It could have happened before the Depression, too, when people heard about this great irrigation development that was happening in Mildura. Then gradually they probably moved into the area of Mildura that was known as ‘Williamstown’ – the tiny little houses in Lemon Avenue, Orange Avenue, that area.” Jean Hinks (nee Moser) and Marjorie Moser The compilers of the report had discovered that municipal authorities had no power to enforce even minimum health standards on these dwellings, which they recommended should be removed. A plan was drawn up to rehouse many of these families using State Government funding, but, as with many other matters, it came to nothing because of the outbreak of World War Two.

“They had a flash house – they had servants. They had gas, carbide-powered lights. They put the carbide in and start the water dripping, and gas would come out and they would light the lights. But up in the top, on the roof, we used to play tennis!”

While many of the Nichols Point settlers were living subsistence lives, either on wages or on their own properties, there were some quite significant homes in the local district. The Chaffeys were large landholders at Nichols Point at Chateau Mildura in Belar Avenue. The Iredale house, Denbeigh, was another of the impressive properties in the district. Leander Howlett Iredale had been born in London, and worked as a stonemason in early Melbourne. He settled on a property at Nichols Point. He built the home in 1912, handcrafting all its decorative stonemasonry. He named it after the Methodist Church he attended as a boy in England. “They had a flash house – they had servants. They had gas, carbide-powered lights. They put the carbide in and start the water dripping, and gas would come out and they would light the lights. But up in the top, on the roof, we used to play tennis! They had a tennis court up there and a greenhouse for you to sit in, you know. It’s magnificent. The ceilings in the house were about 18 feet.” Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel Children generally attended school until Grade Eight, but had regular jobs from an early age. “When we lived at the Billabong we had to cart the water with a horse and sled. We had a rainwater tank for drinking only and we had a tank on the road that we used to fill for water for the bit of garden and the fowls, and the tub in the shed. We had to go to get the water nearly every night. One of us would do that and the other would go and get the cow from up on the channel bank where it would be tethered of a day time and bring it home. He’d have to milk the cow as well. We had a half-acre of lucerne;

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Family party, Wilkinson’s garden, Nichols Point, circa 1909. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

‘Villa Margarita’, Nichols Point, circa 1906. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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we had to cut that for dry feed for the horse in winter time. We didn’t argue we just took our turn. Then you also had to empty the poop-can,that was full right to the top every time. I would have been about six from the time I was doing those jobs.” Gordon Smith “We were very poor, and lived not far from the river. When we heard the paddlesteamers blow their whistle, we used to race across a couple of paddocks to wave to it as it went past. We used to gather cow manure to burn in a kerosene tin to chase away the mosquitos. I had long hair at the time, and always wore white, mauve or purple satin ribbons because we lived not far from the cemetery and we used to get the ribbons from the wreaths thrown on the rubbish tips.” Mary Connolly (nee Farrell), Nichols Point School Centenary

“I had long hair at the time, and always wore white, mauve or purple satin ribbons because we lived not far from the cemetery and we used to get the ribbons from the wreaths thrown on the rubbish tips.”

“Children from about five years of age often used to drive the farm tractors. One lad drove the tractor into their dam – the tractor was being used as a pump engine and had to be left out of gear, which the lad forgot to do.” Mike Witcher “Our house was some 300 metres back from the road so a box was built beside the front gate to receive bread and milk. The baker would leave a freshly baked loaf (unsliced of course) if money was in the box. A tin pail was there also for the milkman to fill with milk straight from the dairy, the milk had to be collected quickly on hot mornings to stop it from curdling. We lived very well by comparison with many people. My mother was an excellent cook who preserved everything in season in Fowlers jars. This included all fruits, vegetables, asparagus etc. We grew our own vegetables in an extensive garden close to the house and I am sure my interest in horticulture was encouraged by watching seeds that we planted growing into consumables. We also had a one acre orchard with some 30 odd fruit trees that supplied my mother with preserving material. Everything was stored in a large pantry capable of holding hundreds of Fowlers jars full of produce. Poultry unlike today was a luxury at this time. We had four pens containing almost 100 birds, both chickens and ducks. Feeding and watering them was one of my jobs by the time I attended Primary School. It was also my task several years later to select and execute that evening’s dinner. I took great care to keep the birds calm and despatched them painlessly with a single blow of a sharp axe. One of my less glamorous jobs was to empty and bury the product of the outdoor toilet which was some thirty yards away from the house. It boasted a lovely view across the vines but rather uncomfortable access on rainy nights.” Jim Henshilwood “Watermaster Kjellburg, driving around one day, observed some swimmers in the 85 ft channel, just by a thick patch of scrub. He drove around the back of this, and, going forward very cautiously, found the swimmers’

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clothing in the scrub, gathered it up and put it in his jinker. Crikey! Females!’ he gasped. He drove back by a track that led along the channel. The swimmers heard the clip clop of a horse’s hooves coming at a hard gallop, and, being in a state of puris naturalibus, submerged, with only heads showing. Kjellburg drew rein, shouted a lecture and rode off. He guessed who they were. Two days later, he called at the house, handed the clothes to the mother, and drove off without a word. He saw the funny side of the incident – it lay in the fact that their house was about half a mile from the scrub, with the intervening distance completely cleared of vegetation. They were thus compelled to wait till dark before attempting the homeward journey!” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura “We were kept fairly busy and we didn’t have a lot of time to feel sorry for ourselves – we grew a big garden. Dad made an old gig for us. Dad took the body of the gig out, and put mesh over the floor and wheatbags over the top of that. We had to take that vehicle out into the paddock and pick up cow manure and horse manure. We carted many loads of horse manure. We pulled it around and brought it up to grow the garden, mainly on manure. The ground itself, if you go out there today, is pure clay, and you think how could that have ever grown the garden we had? At the start we carried the water up to everything with the bucket. Then we had buckets on a pitchfork. Later on we acquired a hand pump with a two-inch pipe on it, and we would take it in turns to work the pump. We would build channels to flow the water around where we wanted it. When we had all the vegetables we wanted, we grew quite a few flowers too. That was where we learned how to work. When we got rich we bought an engine and a pump – you had never seen the garden grow so much!” Roy Ferry The terrible droughts of the 1920s, and the opportunities presented by horticultural development and progress in Mildura, tempted many farming families to relocate from the Mallee and Millewa to Nichols Point. “During the dry period of the 1920s, a lot of people from the dryland areas moved into Mildura, because it had water I think! Most of them walked off their farms. My Grandfather just packed the family up from Ouyen and sent them up here on the train, then he packed up his horse and cart and everything else they had and came up here and got started on a property in what is now Laurel Avenue.” Brian Munroe “We had been on a farm at Yaapeet, Dad had a 640 acre farm. There were ten of us and a 640 acre farm didn’t give you enough to have a family that size. He had to get other jobs. He went post-cutting, he was a blacksmith and used to go around the district shoeing horses and doing vet’s work

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“He drove around the back of this, and, going forward very cautiously, found the swimmers’ clothing in the scrub, gathered it up and put it in his jinker. ‘Crikey! Females!’ he gasped.“

“When the Government heard he was cutting posts they told him to move on. He was supposed to make a living off 640 acres, but as I say that was impossible. We were well-fed, but the fact that he wasn’t doing it all on the farm was the big problem with the Government. It sort of sticks in your neck a bit.”

(horse dentistry). He had a gag that he put on a horse’s mouth so he couldn’t shut it, and he would file teeth that had become uneven, and pull teeth. And he was a blacksmith, and even if you wanted your wagon wheel fixed he would also do that. He took all those jobs to feed us and take care of our financial needs. When the Government heard he was cutting posts they told him to move on. He was supposed to make a living off 640 acres, but as I say that was impossible. We were well-fed, but the fact that he wasn’t doing it all on the farm was the big problem with the Government. It sort of sticks in your neck a bit. I was about seven when my family moved up. There was ten of us. We first moved in with Jim Smith, who had moved up about ten years earlier. They were living at Psyche Bend in living quarters – tents made out of bags sewn together. I don’t remember how long they stayed there after that. We stayed with them for about six months. After six months we moved from Psyche Bend to the Billabong. And we were there for about 18 or 20 years. Our house was down towards the embankment that cut off the Billabong. And we did the same as Jim Smith did. We cut open wheat bags and sewed them together and a made tents the same as they did. After a while we built the kitchen. A cooking, eating area. Then eventually we built more like a house, you know. We bought timber, built the timber frame, used redgum posts for a veranda all around. Put a new corrugated iron roof on it and then we could only line it with hessian. We lived there all told for about 20 years. The first attempt wasn’t anywhere near as good as the house. We were in the bag tents for probably four or five years. We whitewashed all the tents, and put a fly over the top. It was just a cover over the tents made of hessian. We treated them with lime, and when it rained, the bags swelled up and stopped the water from going through. After it swelled up the water just ran off. I didn’t learn to milk a cow on the Billabong. My younger brothers all learned to milk but when I was 14 I got a job on a fruitblock. I worked there for about three years, then I went cutting wood. When I worked on the fruit block I started out earning about 10 shillings a week. Then I got another job and it worked out to about 36 shillings a week. My brother then came out of the Army and had bought a truck and wanted someone to come cutting posts. My mother charged me five pounds a week for board then. I forget what she charged me when I first started working, but when I finished living at home I was paying five pounds a week, and I was earning about 15. Five pounds was about the basic wage then, so I was earning a bit extra. But I had to work hard. I finished up buying a truck myself. Mum had been saving up all the money she could and eventually they moved off the Billabong and into 11th Street. We had the help of a builder, so when Dad dismantled the old home at the Billabong and they used some of it to build a house on Eleventh Street. While they were never threatened or told they had to leave the Billabong, I think it was left to them that when they were able, they would naturally do it.” Roy Ferry

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“We moved to Cardross when I was 15 – 1938. It was a very tough time. Nearly all the farmers down that way (Pinaroo) had 640 acres, and it wasn’t big enough to raise a family on. They were broke. Walked off. In other words they did a midnight flit – left the poor old grocer and the poor old butcher. I don’t know how much we might have left. Very sad. I’ve always thought about that part. The war broke out about that time, too. Dad was on what they called Sustenance – you had to work for the Sustenance. He was cracking stones out there at Red Cliffs. I had finished school in grade 8, then I got a job when I was 16, on a shovel. Then I got called up just after the Japs took Singapore. I spent four and a half years in the Army. I was madly in love with a very nice young lady. Edith waited for me and I got discharged on the 17th of May 1946. I got back from New Britain on the 24th and got married on the 30th.” John Miller Typhoid fever hit in the 1930s, schools were closed by the polio epidemic in 1938 and the region suffered from the Great Depression. “I contracted Typhoid Fever and had three months in hospital. That year all the school tanks were cleaned out to make sure there was no contamination in them. During the Depression I think most people were poor. Many a time boys would come to school without shoes and those with shoes often had no socks, even in winter. The games we played were hidey, hop-scotch, skipping, knuckle jacks and for the boys, marbles and buttons, plus the team games, such as rounders, basketball and football.” Patricia Carter (nee Giles) Nichols Point School Centenary “Because the Billabong was so close they used to supplement their food with fish from the Billabong, and my uncles used to go down there and catch water rats and sell the pelts to make money. The water rats used to have really good pelts, and they used to sell them to make money. By the time I was a kid in the early 50s I can remember going down there trying to trap them. I could see them, but I couldn’t trap them. So they obviously weren’t so numerous by then. There was a lot of fish in the Billabong still, though, when I was growing up. A lot of redfin, a lot of catfish and even a few perch. But by the 1960s the numbers had fallen. Even in Horseshoe Billabong, which is salted out now, in the 1950s it was still good enough to catch yabbies in. You would always catch yabbies there.” Brian Munroe “One of the less politically-correct activities we indulged in was collecting birds’ eggs. The eggs we robbed from their nests were pierced with needles and the contents blown out - the empty egg was then placed on cotton wool with a note indicating its species. One of the more difficult types to obtain were Magpie eggs which were usually high in trees and zealously guarded. Stealing them could be a hazardous business. There were also snakes. On one morning after I had left for school my mother walked to

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“Nearly all the farmers down that way (Pinaroo) had 640 acres, and it wasn’t big enough to raise a family on. They were broke. Walked off. In other words they did a midnight flit – left the poor old grocer and the poor old butcher. I don’t know how much we might have left. Very sad.”

the gate to collect the bread and milk accompanied by our little fox terrier Jackie. As she went to reach into the box the dog dived in ahead of her and emerged with 4 foot of brown snake in his jaws. He had almost certainly prevented my mother from being bitten but had suffered a bite himself and died soon after from the venom. In those days of open channels and heavy underbrush along the roads snakes were a constant threat.” Jim Henshilwood “I think I started school in 1941 and it was well into the War. I was recruited at the age of four and a half, I think, because they had to get enough kids to attend to hang onto the miniscule number of teachers they had. There was a recruitment drive to get children who were really younger than they ought to have been to make a start. There were eight grades at the time. But you could depart at grade six to go to high school. Which I did at the age of 10 and a half.” Henry Tankard

“On one morning after I had left for school my mother walked to the gate to collect the bread and milk accompanied by our little Fox Terrier Jackie. As she went to reach into the box the dog dived in ahead of her and emerged with 4 foot of brown snake in his jaws.”

“From the early years of Primary School we were allowed to go to each other’s places to play after school. I remember I had to be home by 5 p.m. or I would be in trouble. The games we played varied from board games inside to a wide variety of pursuits outside. At early Primary School age we were cowboys or super heroes such as Superman or Batman. Tying a towel around our necks and leaping off rack roofs as the caped crusader comes to mind. During the late 1950s Davy Crockett was all the rage and we all wanted coonskin caps. A few of us were lucky enough to have our mothers sew up full buckskin outfits to play in. These fortunate few were guaranteed to be Davy Crockett and not one of his offsiders.” Jim Henshilwood “We used to just get on our bikes and all weekend we would be riding all over the place. We would ride out to Red Cliffs, and out to Merbein, with a slug gun, shooting everything that moved – you can’t imagine doing that now.” Brian Munroe “We had a professional who lived in a little house at Riverside, in the little green building that’s near where the practice putting greens are now. He got a golf school going and in the May school holidays we would have five days in tents at Riverside, girls on one side, boys on the other and he would have movies, and eat in the clubhouse. He also used to teach a group of us down at the old Lock ovals.” Chas Watson “In the 1950s many people still did not own a car, and as a result of this, many of life’s staple goods were delivered to the front door. We had no electricity until 1952 so perishable foods stuffs were preserved in ice chests. The Ice Man visited on a regular basis. The greengrocer had a horse-drawn

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vehicle and dropped in once a week. The butcher was slightly more modern with a motorised van. He would open the back to display his wards, and had a palm frond that he used to discourage flies. But in spite of meat being exposed to heat and dust I can’t remember anyone becoming ill from ‘turned’ meat.” Jim Henshilwood The coming of electricity to King’s Billabong and Nichols Point marked a revolution in domestic order. “In 1952 electricity came to Karadoc Avenue and our lives were changed forever. Candles and hurricane lamps were replaced by all-encompassing light at the flick of a switch. The hand pump that lifted water to the overhead tank that supplied the house was electrified. All our water was channel water as we did not get filtered pressurised town water until 1962. The concrete tubs and hand wringer in the shed were replaced with a washing machine in the bathroom/laundry. The kitchen was transformed with a toaster, mini electric oven, blender and electric jug. In spite of all this my mother continued to cook most meals on the wood fired IXL stove even during summer. Other improvements to household tasks included a vacuum cleaner and electric iron. One influence of these times that cannot be over-estimated was radio. It cost two pounds ($4.00) for a listening licence in the 1950s and while not everyone bought newspapers they all listened to the wireless. We little kids had our own show at around 4.00 p.m. – ‘The Sunshiners’ Program’ – on which we would get a cheerio on our birthday. There were a number of serials that were repeated each day e.g. Tarzan. The Lone Ranger. Superman etc. Popular music was played throughout the day with news in the evening and then Quiz shows such as Bob Dyer’s ‘Pick a Box’ and ‘The Jack Davey Show’. Afterwards there would be some adult serials until 10.00 p.m. when the broadcast finished with a rendition of ‘God save the King’.” Jim Henshilwood The biggest industry in the Nichols Point and King’s Billabong area was always the pumps, right through until their closure in the mid 1950s. Only a few of the original subdivisions that had been created by the Chaffeys at Kings Billabong were taken up. Despite the subdivision, the Kings Billabong area in the 1920s was predominantly fruit blocks – Gordon Smith recalls seven houses in Cooke Street at that time. “The thing I remember from when I was a little kid was all the characters who used to live around there. Because they needed so many workers up until 1955 – they had people cutting wood, firing the furnaces and boilers, people who used to run the pumps, and in the summer time they would be going 24 hours a day, so they needed a fairly big workforce. And they all lived along the edge of the Billabong. They had little hessian-covered calico humpies and some of them had corrugated iron humpies. None

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“In 1952 electricity came to Karadoc Avenue and our lives were changed forever. Candles and hurricane lamps were replaced by all-encompassing light at the flick of a switch.”

“All the houses that are along Cooke Street now, people would be amazed to think what conditions people were living in there only about 50 years ago.”

of them had power or running water, even then. Then when they didn’t need those people any more, they moved on, which was a bit sad – they just got told they had to move on. The ones in Cooke Street could stay, but those down on the Billabong had to move on. All the houses that are along Cooke Street now, people would be amazed to think what conditions people were living in there only about 50 years ago.” Brian Munroe

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1920s-1990s

The proximity to the Murray River has always been a dominant factor in the active community life around Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong and Nichols Point.

Nichols Point State School working bee on recreation ground, circa 1916. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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Throughout indigenous and European history, the focus of the recreational and social activity was concentrated in and around the river. The floodplain and billabong allowed for relatively permanent inhabitation by local indigenous groups, and there is evidence of a large number of sites associated with family and social life in close proximity to the water. European settlement in the area again, by necessity, focussed on areas accessible to the river because of the relative security of water supply in an otherwise arid landscape. “We have also received a letter from Sydney, in which occurs the following passage: “We look with great interest upon the successful navigation of the Murray. In this place it is regarded as of vast importance to all the three colonies, but especially to South Australia”. From a Melbourne letter we extract the following passage: — ”South Australia, and indeed all the colonies, are indebted to Capt. Cadell for opening up the Murray, the results of which will far surpass any present conception that can be formed. South Australian Register, December 12, 1853 By the 1850s, with the opening of river trade, signs were also emerging that the growing population required some semblance of order and control.

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“Extensive and satisfactory arrangements have been lately made in the police departments both by the New South Wales and Victoria Governments.On the Victoria side of the Murray, a police party, consisting of an officer and eight troopers, has been stationed at Messrs. Jamieson’s station, Mildura, near the junction of the Darling. A constant patrol is kept up from Swan Hill to the South Australian frontiers, the duty being jointly performed by the police parties at Swan Hill and Mildura…Police…have just been in this part of the country in pursuit of a notorious character. From all the information I can obtain, the party they are in search of is said to have been seen some time ago about 160 miles from this, near the junction of the Murrumbidgee and Lachlan. Should this information be correct, the party they are in pursuit of must now be some 500 miles ahead, a distance much too great to afford any chance of the Inspector’s overtaking it, even were the Government horses fresh and in proper condition to undertake with expedition so long a journey. In this case the horses are in no condition for such a journey, having come up from Adelaide without any loss of time. Horses here continue high in price, and suitable horses for police purposes are difficult to be got, even at very high prices.” South Australian Register, December 12, 1853 From the earliest days, the isolation of the Mildura region meant the station and the settlement were relatively self-sufficient in terms of entertainment and socialisation. “In almost all the agricultural districts of the Old World it has been the custom from time immemorial to celebrate the conclusion of the harvest by a feast and sports of some kind or other. On this festive occasion master and servant meet together on more familiar terms than usual, and by the efforts of the one to contribute to the enjoyment of the other a lasting feeling of goodwill is generally produced. The same honoured custom has been introduced into the agricultural districts of the New World, and in the Australian Colonies its observance is by no means of rare occurrence. In pastoral districts, unfortunately, it is otherwise; at the conclusion of shearing, which may be termed the harvest of the squatter, as soon as the various accounts are settled the group collected in the woolshed is broken up, and the various members of it disperse in search of new employers and different occupations. It was otherwise this year at Mildura, the station of Messrs. H. & B. Jamieson on the Murray. The shearing operations concluded on Monday the 16th instant, and on the following day every person employed at and around the head station sat down in the new woolshed to an excellent repast. At the conclusion of the dinner a few appropriate remarks were addressed to the guests by Mr Jamieson, J.P. (who occupied the chair), and also by the Rev. Mr Ross of Wentworth, and Mr Burne, P.M.; after which all parties betook themselves to the open air, where rifle-shooting, quoit-playing, racing, and other sports were engaged in-a few money prizes having been provided for the encouragement of the competitors. At sundown the proceedings of the day terminated, and

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“On this festive occasion master and servant meet together on more familiar terms than usual, and by the efforts of the one to contribute to the enjoyment of the other a lasting feeling of goodwill is generally produced.”

it were hard to say whether employer or employed derived the greatest gratification from them.” South Australian Register, December 2, 1863 When the Chaffey vision for an irrigation settlement began to unfold, again, the first areas to be settled were those like Nichols Point, with ease of access to the river. The directors’ progress report of 1889 reported that plantations were flourishing and land sales were still vigorous. Main channels had been completed for a length of 20 miles and two McLaren pumping plants had kept up the water supply. The telephone system had been extended to Psyche Bend–a total length of nine miles. But living remained tough for the earliest settlers.

“No Coolgardie or charcoal safes! They did not exist. No ice works! These did not come for years. A hole in the ground covered with a wet bag served to keep butter and vegetables for a while, but bread and meat were the greatest worry. Australia as a nation had been brought up on bread and meat – it was the staple diet. Gradually things improved. But nothing that could not be minimized in any way – by the DUST – spell it in capitals! In clearing so much land at feverish pace, it was inevitable that the bare surface would lift in the slightest breeze, and so in summer time we had dust every day, and too often in winter as well.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura However, the work to set up the settlement created a unique social and community environment, and it was presented as an idyllic lifestyle in many accounts of the early 1890s. “Some of Mrs Gregory’s most treasured memories are of musical evenings spent at “Fairholme” Nichols Point, the home of the Campbells, and the centre of all musical gatherings. There was exceptional talent here in those days, and many pleasant hours were spent in harmony.” Obituary, E.S. Gregory by Alice Lapthorne “We saw a regular army of Burlington Berties, Piccadilly Johnnies with their eyeglasses, and Haw Haw remittance men from England. These began to arrive early in 1890, and continued into the next year. On the night the English mail arrived by coach from Swan Hill (usually a Saturday) you would see anything from 50 to 70 of these chaps lined up. They would get their remittances, live a lordly life for two and a half weeks, and starve until the next mail arrived. Wild shavers – black sheep of their families they may have been – but in a new country they were more to be

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pitied than condemned. They were the product of their own people’s folly in allowing them to lead lives of leisure and uselessness. There is little of pity in the Australian makeup for a man who cannot make do for himself, and in three years the majority of these had drifted back to their ancestral home and elsewhere.” John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura “Near and far now along all the roads of the settlement from the clearings and the plantations we see men and horses returning from their labour. Hundreds of them—the company alone employs three hundred horses—all making into the stable, for the day’s work is ended. Ended ! Yes, friend farmer, whose ploughmen will be toiling and moiling for two hours yet, whose horses will be munching their provender while the man is eating his supper by the light of a candle on a summer’s night. It is absolutely true, it is the way of the settlement. These folks, who certainly cannot be accused of encouraging laziness, or of being satisfied with any half-task in any day, consider that ‘twixt the hours of seven and five, man and horse can do their duty. The man has attended to his beasts, and finished his own supper by six, and has, as is his right, two hours of good daylight to use us he deems best for his own profit or pleasure. The ploughman if he chooses can dress himself decently, go down to the village into the athletic or concert room, play his game at billiards or drafts, or take a walk with the girl of his heart (why not?), and get back to his bed by ten, feeling better and more manly and hopeful, that his day has had a pleasant and reasonable ending. Or, if determined to make his way in life, he can put in two hours’ work on his 10-acre block, and so prepare for the time, not very remote, when he can confidently take a wife to himself and quit the service of any master but himself for ever. The wages paid to these men is about 7s. per day. They pay their own cook and provide their own victuals, after the fashion of shearers, and the cost per week averages about 12s, so that at least 30s a week remains as wages. Is it a matter for surprise that there are a fine set of labourers in Mildura, smart, capable, steady, rattling along with their work through the day as if they had heart in it, and whistling cheerily as they come in to tea, knowing that pleasure and opportunity are ahead of them ?” The Argus, December 20, 1890 The Mildura settlement was established as a prohibitionist colony by its conservative Methodist founders, with the men’s clubs (Mildura Club, Settlers and Workers) the only outlet for liquor. Men from the Nichols Point needed to travel to Mildura to the clubs for more formal social occasions. “Be it remembered, also, that there is no public house or drinking-saloon for their impoverishment or demoralisation. The company is strong on this point. You may argue against it in the abstract, if you will, as an infringement of natural liberty and an attempt at sumptuary legislation, but the fact stands that many a score of men in Mildura now are well-

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“There is little of pity in the Australian makeup for a man who cannot make do for himself...”

“These men one and all said they had no desire to be led into temptation. Remove the prohibition and there would be a dozen drinking-bars in Mildura within a month, and “where would we be then?”

to-do and thriving, small capitalists, or actual or prospective landholders, who, if public houses had been permitted would have been down in the dregs of poverty and misery, or humping their swags back through the Mallee. Liquor, of course, is obtainable in Mildura. There is, indeed, a club for those who desire and are qualified for such accommodation. But no drinking bars. I thought maybe the work-men of the settlement would resent this, and be disposed to ask angrily, “Why should the ‘swells ‘ have their club while the ‘poor man’ is denied his beer?” But having sounded some half-dozen of them, I began to understand that such notions were altogether wrong. These men one and all said they had no desire to be led into temptation. Remove the prohibition and there would be a dozen drinking-bars in Mildura within a month, and “where would we be then?” The Argus, December 20, 1890 It was not until more than 30 years after the Mildura settlement’s establishment that the first hotel was built. “There has never been a hotel in Mildura—though one is now in course of erection (First hotel was The Commercial Hotel, later the Hotel Wintersun, now Hotel Mildura in Eighth Street). They were not prohibited because the promoters were teetotallers, but because their experience had taught them that labor went on more vigorously and more satisfactorily when there was no public house handy. For the same reason Messrs Chaffey Bros. acquired some land on the New South Wales side of the river, opposite Mildura and it was not possible to erect a public house there. On the halfholiday and on Sunday (as now) many men found their way up to Gol Gol and there was also another means of getting wet supplies. Before the end of 1888 it was suspected that several sly-groggeries existed in Mildura and its neighborhood and early in 1889 a detective found his way to Mildura and “dissipated freely,” with the result that he was able to lay seven informations—five against Mildura residents and two against New South Welshmen. The Mildura cases were heard at Yelta and the others at Wentworth. At a later date—when a Court had been established in Mildura there was a very considerable haul of sly-groggeries, the hearing of whose cases occasioned great interest.” Mildura Cultivator, May 3, 1919 The early days of the Nichols Point settlement were hard and much of the entertainment and community interaction was incidental and informal. The Nichols Point School was a hub of the community from its establishment in 1892. “At the school, it was Men’s Committee and Mother’s Club. Everyone was on the committees. My wife Edith was president of the Mother’s Club at one stage. We used to run the fete in November each year and get 200 pound for it. Now they get thousands at the fete. We had the produce stand and all sorts of food.” John Miller

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The establishment of the Nichols Point store by George Gregory around 1902 created a general focal point but the bulk of retail activity for local residents remained in Mildura. “I was 13 and a half when I left school. I got a job in a chemist shop in Mildura, WR Weir and Sons they were. There were 16 turned up for the job, every kid had a tie on, boots all clean. I was the smallest, so I got the job. Because I was too small to go on the shovel or do any hard work. I worked 8 in the morning until 6 at night, and until 9 o clock on Saturday night. I rode the bike from Billabong to Mildura every day. When it rained it used to be hard getting home on the bike, it was only a dirt road. I got my pay and I had seven and sixpence – 75 cents for a whole week! I walked out the door and my Mum asked “Did you get your pay son?” And I said “Yeah” and showed her, and she said: “Now, there’s a shilling – that’s ten cents – now you can go to Chapman’s love, and get yourself a big pastie and a big pot of Tarax – that was the bottle with the big finger-marks around it – and that’s four-pence, and then you’ll have four-pence to spend – and you never said a word.” Gordon Smith For the early settlers, transportation across the Murray River between Nichols Point and Gol Gol was by boat. In 1910, a punt was established between the northern end of Sandilong Creek at King’s Billabong and Trentham Cliffs. It became the major crossing point for the entire Mildura settlement and an important transport link with communities further north into New South Wales. With the population still expanding rapidly into inland areas, it was a colourful part of the King’s Billabong story. “The flock (3000 lambs and 500 ewes) was crossed in three hours on the Gol Gol Punt, the lessee (Mr. Dring) keeps a pet lamb to lead sheep on with. Mr Johnson says he has never seen anything like Mr Dring’s pet. It knows as much, as a man, and is of great assistance in crossing the many sheep put over the Gol Gol Punt.” The Adelaide Register, March 6, 1924 “A shocking motor car accident occurred at Mildura Ferry on the New South Wales side of the River. Mr Penfold, of Irymple, and a family party were out motoring during the afternoon and were returning home. Unfortunately the punt cutting is very steep. It is thought that the car had too much weight for the brakes to hold it, with the result that it dashed through the gates and into the river. The puntman quickly returned from the other side with his boat and rescued the whole party except one of Mr Penfold’s daughters, aged 13 years, whose body was recovered several hours later.” Northern Star (Lismore), August 5, 1914

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“For the early settlers, transportation across the Murray River between Nichols Point and Gol Gol was by boat.”

Working bee at Nichols Point oval, circa 1920. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

Wharton family crossing the Murray River on the Psyche punt, circa 1948. Image courtesy Peter Wharton.

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A more convenient river crossing was established in 1927 when a bridge was constructed downstream at Mildura, but the punt continued to be in use until the 1950s, largely due to demand for timber for the irrigation pumps. The Nichols Point cemetery became established at the end of the 19th century. The earliest burials at the Mildura settlement had been at the Homestead Cemetery but as the population began to grow, a larger, dedicated site was required. The community began to use the site of the current Nichols Point Cemetery for burial from as early as 1891, when the Mildura Shire Council assumed the role of Trustee. However, it was not until 1898 that the site was officially declared a cemetery by the Victorian Government. One of the earliest graves at the cemetery is that of the noted photographer Ernest Oswald, who came to the settlement before 1890 and whose work records the earliest days of young settlement. At age 29, Oswald was burnt in a fire in 1892 at the Mildura boarding house, the “Full and Plenty”, in Langtree Avenue. Newspaper reports state that Oswald attempted to return to the burning building to try to retrieve the Backcoller family Bible. He was tended at the newly completed Mildura Cottage Hospital but later died of his injuries. There are ten Chaffey family members buried at the Nichols Point cemetery, including W.B. Chaffey, who died in 1926. The cemetery has a large number of war graves throughout, but there is also a dedicated war grave lawn area with 49 burials. In the 1990s it was recognised that the burial space would be exhausted at the Nichols Point Cemetery, by the year 2000 and the new Murray Pines Cemetery was established near the Mildura Airport. It opened in 1999. From around 1914, Nichols Point would become the focus of some of the region’s more colourful and important community events. The original race club in Mildura was formed in 1888, and races were held on land, later known as the Rifle Butts, loaned by W.B. Chaffey. The track was later situated near the Old Mildura homestead, but the 130 acres proved very difficult to use. When the land and homestead were sold in 1914 to Stephen Mansell, the race club obtained a 99 year lease from the Government of 126 acres at Sandilong Park, its present home. Racegoers were promised the track would be “free of dust so that racing will be seen clearly from start to finish”! The administration buildings, finishing post and horse stalls were originally located on the river side of the track. The Murray River flood of 1917 forced the relocation of buildings to their current location on the opposite side of the course.

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“A more convenient river crossing was established in 1927 when a bridge was constructed downstream at Mildura, but the punt continued to be in use until the 1950s, largely due to demand for timber for the irrigation pumps.”

The inaugural Cup meeting in April 1917 attracted a record crowd to watch the gelding Hedley finish runner-up in the Flying Handicap, before taking out the cup in “gallant style”. The Cultivator reported the winner was “cheered lustily” because local racing had never known a “gamer loser in the past than (trainer) Mr A Harrop and because part-owner Stan Read is doing his bit in the trenches”.

A storm in 1966 brought an end to the original Sandilong Park buildings – the horse stalls were flattened and the old Secretary’s Office was blown from its foundations.

Racing was suspended during World War Two. After the war supporters donated one thousand pounds to put the course back in order. (Much of the corrugated iron had been removed from fences and horse stalls for use during the war effort.). It was initially replaced with rolled-out tar drums from the Mildura Shire, which continued to serve as fencing material right through until the 1960s. “Jack Castleman had stables near the entrance to the Mildura track and there wasn’t a curator back in those days so I would help Jack drag harrows around the dirt track.” Bill McNabb, former trainer and life-member A storm in 1966 brought an end to the original Sandilong Park buildings – the horse stalls were flattened and the old Secretary’s Office was blown from its foundations. A two-and-a-half year redevelopment project followed, transforming what the club described as “a dusty expanse littered with old and decayed buildings, falling fences, toilets with pans and horse stalls leaning crazily” into one of the “neatest racecourse areas in the country”. Hundreds of hours were committed by club members and volunteers at working bees and the result was new horse stalls, a swab stall, horse wash, sand roll, vet’s office, two brick toilets, new starting stalls shed, a tractor shed, fencing, lawns, a photo-finish tower, a public bar and irrigation system. Further major progress occurred when the track was upgraded from dirt to grass in 1972. “It was an exciting day and it did live up to the promise of attracting trainers from far and wide because now we get some of the big stables, even from Melbourne coming here, particularly in winter, looking for a firmer track for their horses.” Bill McNabb In 1986 the Mildura Horse Complex was established next to the Mildura Racing Club on land leased by the Mildura Rural City Council. It was established in an effort to keep all of the Equestrian Sports Clubs together in the one area and was an affiliation of the Mildura Alcheringa Pony Club, Mildura Equestrian Club and the Sunraysia Harness Club. Due to the hard work from volunteers of these clubs, the grounds were turned from an area of swampy-looking ground covered with dead trees to a home for Equestrian Sports. In May 1989 a relocatable complex provided club rooms for the clubs to share. The grounds were now comparable to other country equestrian centres.

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The Nichols Point and King’s Billabong community’s social events in the early days almost invariably focussed on the river and often took the form of large communal picnics. “The New South Wales side of the Murray on Boxing Day the Church of Christ and Sunday School held a very jolly picnic. The punt had to make two trips to carry over the pedestrians and some vehicles. The children and young people greatly enjoyed the games, swings and boating. They were regaled with tea, sandwiches, cakes and fruit at lunch and supper. The senior people had a very social, if less hilarious, time, exchanging experiences and partaking of ‘the cup that cheers, but not inebriates’.(tea!) All voted the Christmas picnic an unqualified success.” Mildura Cultivator, January 1, 1916 “CHRISTMAS IN MILDURA. Mildura streets were thronged on Christmas Eve and everybody seemed to have money to spend. One leading business-man was heard to remark that he had not only had the best Xmas Eve since he opened up in Mildura, but also the most profitable week. Excepting for the khaki-clad soldiers, there was nothing to show that Australia, as part of the British Army, is engaged to a life and death struggle with a very powerful enemy. Father Christmas made his appearance in the street in a motor car and distributed..lollies and rabbits - gifts which were very highly appreciated by the youthful recipients. Christmas Day was hot and so were the succeeding days, but there were many river picnics on Monday. Though the Band picnic on Monday was not a financial success…it provided a very enjoyable outing. The picnickers were landed just above Bruce’s Bend and put in an excellent day. The list of race-winners was not kept, so cannot be given. There must have been close on 20 picnicking parties out along the river on Monday, most of them being located between Bruce’s Bend and Psyche. In a few cases the parties went out on Saturday evening and did not return until Monday night or Tuesday morning. There were lots of good fishing achievements.” Mildura Cultivator, January 1, 1916 “Dad was one of the first people out here to have a car. He was part of what was called the Dads’ Army – the home brigade or something similar -- in the Second World War, because he was a war veteran from the first war. Because he had a car he had to show all these people around each time. He actually had Bluey Truscott and three of his mates when Truscott was out at the flying school at the 402 squadron and dad had to take them out for an afternoon. He took them out to riverside golf club then to Mildura Club for a game of snooker. Dad was in awe of how much they drank. Dad was a drinker, but Bluey was a legendary drinker – I think he hit the Mildura bridge in a plane at one stage.” Jim Henshilwood

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“Mildura streets were thronged on Christmas Eve and everybody seemed to have money to spend... ...Excepting for the khaki-clad soldiers, there was nothing to show that Australia, as part of the British Army, is engaged to a life and death struggle with a very powerful enemy.”

The focus the river held for industry, social and family gatherings, brought with it inevitable tragedy. Drownings were relatively common around King’s Billabong and Psyche Bend, and Bruce’s Bend gained notoriety for a deep and dangerous hole in the river. “William R. Scott, engineer employed by the Irrigation Company, was drowned in King’s Billabong yesterday evening by the accidental capsizing of a small canoe used for duck-shooting. He was alone in the boat. His body was recovered this morning. An inquest was held in the afternoon before Mr James Matthew, J.P. when a verdict of accidentally drowned was returned. Mr Scott was regarded as one of the most skilful of the company’s engineers, and was much respected. He leaves a wife and family.” The Argus, January 12, 1895 “Several private picnics were held on the banks of the River Murray on New Year’s Day, at one of which a sad drowning accident occurred. On the river near King’s Billabong, Frederick Richardson, a lad of 10 years of age, the only son of the State school teacher at Nichols Point was bathing with several other lads when he slipped into one of the deep holes, and his body was not recovered until an hour afterwards. A coronial enquiry was held, when a verdict of accidentally drowned was returned. One of the other lads who was bathing with Richardson had a narrow escape from a similar fate, but was rescued.” Adelaide Chronicle, January 13, 1900

Drownings were relatively common around King’s Billabong and Psyche Bend, and Bruce’s Bend gained notoriety for a deep and dangerous hole in the river.

“ANOTHER DROWNING FATALITY. The dangerous hole near Bruce’s Bend - said to be 30 or 40 feet deep - has claimed another victim. According to a statement made to the police on Sunday morning, four young men set out from the Kia Ora Boarding House, Irymple, to have a bathe in the Murray. These were William Hall, “Bob” and William Howard and George Milliken. The last-named, who was about 20 years of age, was the only swimmer of the party. Milliken swam across the Murray while the others paddled about in the shallows. When he got across he sat for some time on the New South Wales bank, but finally commenced to swim back to the Victorian side. When about 30 yards from the bank he called out: “How far have I got to go to land?” William Hall answered “In another yard or so you will be able to stand up in the water. [The Murray, it seems, is fordable at two points just here, one above and one below where Milliken was swimming, but there is a very deep hole between.] Shortly after making the above observation, Hall called out: “How is it out there?“ and Milliken answered ,”Just the thing!” Hall said, “Isn’t it cold ?” and the swimmer said: “No, it’s alright.” Milliken was at the time swimming sideways with the current, and there did not appear to be anything wrong. The next time Hall looked round he could not see Milliken, and he called out to Howard and asked him if he thought there was anything wrong. Howard laughingly replied ”Milliken must be having a lark with us: he is playing possum”. He did not, however, re-appear, so the others called to

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someone who had a boat nearby and who came up and helped to search for the missing man. He was not however, seen again, nor was his body recovered till Tuesday.” Mildura Cultivator, February 25, 1914 Fires were also quite common, again regularly bringing the “village” community together to support its own. A CASE FOR IMMEDIATE ASSISTANCE.- To the Editor of the “Cultivator.” Sir, would like to appeal to the public generally through the kindness of your newspaper for support to the following appeal: Mrs. F. Bruce, widow of Corporal Bruce, of the First Pioneers, who was killed in action in France during1916, was burnt out (completely losing all) on Friday last. The property and contents were uninsured, and Mrs Bruce is now destitute, with three boys, the eldest of whom is 12. I feel sure when these facts are known to Mildura this appeal will meet with hearty and spontaneous support. Thanking you in anticipation -Yours faithfully, H. Lt RODSKY,Sec., R.S.S.I.L.A.[From what we can gather, Mrs Bruce worked at Irymple, but resided at a house near Nichols Point (owned by her brother-in-law) -generally- known as Ben Benson’s. When she returned to it’ on Friday night there was very little but ashes left. Bed-clothes, wearing apparel, sewing-machine and furniture were all burnt, as well as some £10 which had been saved from harvesting wages. There are two or three children of school-going age, and their need oft-wearing apparel and bed-clothes is urgent. Even before the Secretary of the R.S.S.L.A. came in, Mrs T. C. Rawlings had suggested the opening of a subscription list which she started with a guinea. We will be glad to receive and acknowledge any donations-Ed. M.C. Mildura Cultivator, May 5 1920 The Nichols Point and Irymple South Schools had their own swimming pools from their early days – tanks or dams installed for the instruction of swimming and for swimming competitions. “I came to Nichols Point with my family in 1919, when I was seven years old. My very first memories are of driving a horse and buggy out from Mildura to Tom Wilkinson’s property. Tom and I both went to the Nichols Point School. The school baths were a boon and I was taught everything I know about swimming by Mrs Rawlings. I spent as much time as I could in the pool and won many swimming events both at Nichols Point and later at the High School. I used to practice swimming after school in the channel with Tom. Dad used to time us with a stop watch and was very proud of our efforts. When the water ganger Jim Magee came along, Tom and I would go under water with a straw until he left. He never caught us out.” Syd Henshall, Nichols Point School Centenary.

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Fires were also quite common, again regularly bringing the “village” community together to support its own.

“Living in an irrigation area meant we had access to the channels when they were full during the growing season. Swimming in the channels was forbidden but on hot days the temptation to strip off our clothes and dive in was irresistible. The dangers were twofold, the earthen channels were infested with yabbies which could deliver a decent bite and if you were discovered by a Water Ganger you were in serious trouble. On some occasions gangers were known to confiscate the clothes of swimmers and leave them to get back home as best they could.” Jim Henshilwood

“Swimming in the channels was forbidden but on hot days the temptation to strip off our clothes and dive in was irresistible... ...On some occasions gangers were known to confiscate the clothes of swimmers and leave them to get back home as best they could.”

Sport was an integral part of the fabric of the Nichols Point community from its very earliest days. A recreation reserve was established beside the Nichols Point school. It had its first phase of intensive development in the days after the First World War. “There are to be great improvements to the Nichols Point school and recreation reserve…A committee of arrangement was formed and it was decided to establish a League (confined solely to the Nichols Point people) to be called “The Empire Service Appreciation League” and a date’ was set for a working bee and meeting for the adoption of plan. A representative of the “Cultivator”, on going out, found a number of teams and hand-workers busily employed. Mr. L. H. Iredale being M.C. “A wide break was being ploughed round the school play-ground, the netting around the district tennis court was being removed and all several trees not in line with the planting proposed. The scheme put before the Nichols Point settlers is that ‘a commodious public hall with stage, kitchen accommodation (to be finished within at least nine months after the declaration of peace) be built where the tennis court stood, and “that some 200 trees, palms, etc., be planted. About 100 gums are to be planted around the channel banks, several shade clumps in the grounds and a number of palms along the Fifth Street frontage.” Mildura Cultivator, September 17, 1917 “There was a big avenue of palm trees, like is out at Merbein – there was a big avenue of them right down Fifth Street, on both sides.” Edna Frankel “But they were the greatest thing for snakes and vermin and birds – the birds loved them because they could go straight in to the grapes. Their roots and everything would rob the vines and they got pulled out. They were still there up until the 1950s but I can’t remember when they were cut out.” Jim Frankel At the focus of much of the regular community activity were the two churches, one at Nichols Point and one at the Billabong.

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“The church at Nichols Point was Methodist when I started there (1950s), then the Methodists went to Uniting. And now it’s Presbyterian. It’s just the Nichols Point Church to me. When I started about 50 people would attend, and I think we are down to about nine sometimes now.” John Miller “Mr Iredale was a great woodworker and I am pretty sure he was responsible for some large wooden plaques that were in the church – one had the Lord’s Prayer, the other I think may have been the Nicene Creed. There was a fellow called Milligan who became our preacher man and he’d come from the Church of England and he started a Children’s Church, so we were all participants in the service at that time.” Henry Tankard “During the War petrol rationing was severe and many cars just sat up on blocks. We had an old Chev that you just couldn’t get enough fuel to be worth running it. Attempts to unify denominations have had several runs through history, but this one was compulsory! So you had people from all denominations at the Nichols Point Church because their only prospect of attending was to attend the closest church. So while the Methodists founded the Church, it included people from other denominations, including Catholics.” Henry Tankard On November 20, 1927, a small wooden church was dedicated at Billabong by the first Lord Bishop of St Arnaud. It was relocated during the 1960s. It was repaired, extended and officially re-opened in 1964 as the Meringur Church. “We were exposed to religion from our earliest days at Primary School by either a Catholic Priest or a Salvation Army Officer enthusiastically getting us to sing “Build on the rock and not upon the sand”. It was also not that long after the end of World War II and Germany and Japan were still regarded with suspicion. The threat of nuclear weapons was always on people’s minds especially during the Korean War.” Jim Henshilwood The Second World War had brought upheaval to the social structure of King’s Billabong and Nichols Point. For children of the era, these years often hold some of their strongest memories. “They were very interesting times. Spitfires, Hurricanes and so on flying over our roof, then having to rise to get up over the trees. They would fly up and down the Billabong doing manoeuvres through the dead trees and having target practice and so on, because the RAAF base was at Mildura. I can still remember the noise of these fighter planes coming over the roof at home. It wasn’t unusual for them to come along Laurel Avenue at tree-top height, trying to sneak in on the Mildura Aerodrome as a bit

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“So you had people from all denominations at the Nichols Point Church because their only prospect of attending was to attend the closest church. So while the Methodists founded the Church, it included people from other denominations, including Catholics.”

of an exercise. There was a bombing range on the other side of Lake Gol Gol – they would come in at 20 feet on their targets out there. There were shells, heads, clips, you could pick them up by the dip-tin full. They were student pilots, but about to go off into active service. I remember my Dad had an old McCormick-Deering tractor – he thought it was coughing and spluttering one day, and it turned out it was a Tigermoth about six feet above his head, coughing and spluttering along Fifth Street!” Barry Kilpatrick “I remember having the air raid drill, lying face down on the grassed play areas with hands on head and pencil clenched between teeth to minimise blast concussion. There were constant planes overhead from the training base. There were shortages of petrol for cars, and most other consumable goods were rationed. We played war games instead of cowboys and Indians. I remember seeing RAAF Bomber air crew member Ian Murray, son of our teacher Mrs Murray, on his safe return from the war, demonstrating his flying suit and escape kit and telling the class of his experiences parachuting from a shot-down Lancaster bomber over Europe.” Des Morris After the war, immigration had a significant impact on the social fabric of the King’s Billabong and Nichols Point area.

“I can still remember the noise of these fighter planes coming over the roof at home. It wasn’t unusual for them to come along Laurel Avenue at tree-top height, trying to sneak in on the Mildura Aerodrome as a bit of an exercise.”

“A lot of my friends in those years were of ethnic background, having migrated to Australia with their families after the end of the Second World War. Two close friends were Dace and Bruno, both families having come from Germany. Bruno was later killed in action in Vietnam.” Susan Henshall, Centenary of Nichols Point Primary School “If you look at the immigration, that really intensified in the early 1950s, where people came from war torn countries and oppressed countries and really saw it as a land of opportunity. If you look at the achievements of the Italians and Greeks and Yugoslavs and later the Turks by sheer dint of application and hard work and self-sacrifice and very modest living – the same thing was happening with Australian families trying to establish a base, particularly with all those generations who had experienced wars. They had lost fathers and brothers in the First World War so the families had all experienced wars and come through a Great Depression where there really just wasn’t employment. So they were conditioned.” Henry Tankard “I was born in 1930, so I was at school during the War years. I don’t remember that very happily. I loved school, but the feeling at the time was very strong – having a foreign name wasn’t good. My family was Yugoslav, but I had been born in Australia. But I was still called ‘dago’ a lot. I got a pretty hard time.” George Matotek

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“There was a Greek guy called George who had a herd of cattle from one of the local dairies. He would herd them up and down the streets and they would eat out the three-chain reserve along the roads. He was a deadly shot with a clod, he’d throw the clods at the cattle if they got across towards the grapevines. He barracked for Imperials, and he was always going to get married “next Saturday”! He was a character.” Jim Henshilwood The Depression in the 1930s brought enormous unemployment, poverty and hardship. Publicly-funded works projects were developed, often involving public infrastructure. One major project was the installation of the irrigation drainage system to manage growing salinity problems. Others focussed more on social infrastructure. “Sandilong Park was established by Mr Johanson, who was with the shire at the time, an engineer. He had a dream for it to be a public-use park that would have a golf course, tennis courts, a swimming pool, a picnic area. The creek was all cleaned and they had diving boards and walkways around the outside of the creek, with lights at night time. There were six or eight grass courts adjacent to the first tee, which are now hard courts. But Sandilong Park as a whole was a fantastic place. All the churches and the schools would have their picnics there. Parents would drive out across the fairways to the park on Sunday afternoons and set up their picnics. Groups of us would have our own footy and cricket games on the 16th Fairway. There could be 30 or 40 kids there at times playing kick to kick. We would just all move aside when the golfers came through – they had right of way—and then we would just continue on with our game. I think it was there until around the time of the huge floods in 1956.” Chas Watson “Sandilong Park was recognition of the councillors of that era of the need for job-creation efforts and for social infrastructure. It had its own little swimming pool, tennis courts and it was a place where people congregated and gathered for many years.” Henry Tankard “On Sunday morning the party drove through Sandelong Park, maintained by the Shire Council. This park embraces the Riverside golf links with grassed fairways (but scrapes for putting), swimming pools with diving tower, tennis courts and race course.” Murray Pioneer, Renmark, August 8, 1946 Spelling of the “Sandilong” name has now been standardised, but locals recollect several versions of the name being used.

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“Sandilong Park was established by Mr Johanson, who was with the shire at the time, an engineer. He had a dream for it to be a public-use park that would have a golf course, tennis courts, a swimming pool, a picnic area.”

“Sandelong was the park, as far as I can remember, Sandilong was the street and Sandalong was the race track, for many years.” Chas Watson The Riverside Golf Course was part of the vision to make Sandilong Park the recreational hub for the district. Established at Nichols Point in 1935, Riverside was another Depression project, and marked a major step forward in the social and recreational pursuits in the area.

“Now when we have fellows walk into the club with their caps on, I go over and take it off their head and say “Now I will have beer thanks – you shout the bar”, because that was the rule - cap inside the building you shout the bar!”

“When I first started going to Riverside when I was about 13 (in the late 1940s) it was very formal. The captain and president would have jacket, collar and tie. Now when we have fellows walk into the club with their caps on, I go over and take it off their head and say “Now I will have beer thanks – you shout the bar”, because that was the rule - cap inside the building you shout the bar! It did used to happen sometimes.” Chas Watson Originally, a suspension swing bridge was erected across Sandilong Creek to provide access to the golf greens and fairways on the north eastern side of the course. This was later replaced by three earthen causeways. “They had four swing bridges across the creek. There were two small narrow ones and two big ones up through the trees. The one round where the 14th and 15th fairways are now was right up high and the one at the 7th was sort of a low bridge and 11th was a high narrow one over onto the ladies’ tee and the 12th was a little one. The 11th was the last one that was taken out. We all fought hard in the 1990s to see if we could build the swing bridge back again – but OHS and public liability just made it too difficult.” Chas Watson “It would shut down at the end of February then it would be dormant until September before it started again, then we would have a big working bee with piles of sand and I can still remember huge pots of oil sitting on a pile of wood boiling away, and when it had boiled for long enough and the slum of the oil had come off they would put big dippers in and mix it in with the sand, and that would make the green – sand scrapes. When you arrived at the course, you would put your ball in what we called ‘The ball starter’ – it was a long piece of pipe at an angle. So you put your ball into it in the order that you arrived, then you went back to your car and got your gear out, and once your ball was resting at the bar at the bottom, that was when you and your group hit off. Of course there were fights every Saturday over people shifting balls around wanting to go earlier than the others!” Chas Watson

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Friday night dances were held at the Nichols Point school from the 1930s to raise money for school equipment, and square dancing continued to be popular at the Nichols Point Scout Hall until the 1970s. “Music was supplied by Mrs Rose Hancock on piano, or by the playing of records. Many young folk of the district learnt to dance at these nights, and dancing included all modern and old-time dances of the time. Sets such as the Lancers and the Alberts were called by Frank Morris.” Nichols Point School Centenary “Dad was very much into dancing. There was always dances at the school. We were just little kids and we were laid down in the corner to go to sleep.” Edna Frankel “The main one was at the Scout Hall, but we had a group of four or five couples and we would often just go to each other’s homes for squaredancing. It was really great fun. You basically form a line, so you didn’t know who your partner would be – the couples formed into groups to make a foursome, so it was a way of splitting everyone up and it was really great socially. The kids would join in, and you’d be swinging them around too.” Doug and Betty Woods “When I was a boy in the 1950s, it was house parties mainly. Mum and Dad used to entertain their friends, local blockies, business people. They used to get oysters in from Melbourne and put them in the underground tank to keep them cool. The beer used to come in wooden boxes with straw in them …Tiger or Ballarat Birdie or something …and they were all in ties and coats. There were a lot of dos at Riverside Golf Club when I was a boy. Everybody would go home after golf, get showered and go back down and have a dance, dinner dances. There was a partition between the men’s and women’s section. As a little boy I remember crawling under the petition into the men’s section and there was nothing but cigarette and cigar smoke hanging from the ceiling and the men were in there drinking beer. They all smoked like Jimmies. They didn’t have a licence so I presume it was illegal beer, and all the women would be drinking cups of tea and eating sandwiches in the women’s section. They had a pretty good social life. Probably better than we did in the ‘70s and ‘80s actually, because we seemed to start working harder and harder and employing people got more expensive, until we went to summer pruning, then it got a bit easier.” Jim Henshilwood “Now it’s changed so much – you don’t know anybody. But back in the early days you knew everybody, we socialised, we had the dances, even in my day, we had a little hall. We were in the tennis club, and there was cricket and footy. My sister always calls it “The Village”and it was. The blocks were big and there were only so many of us. It’s so sad for us to see

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“Mum and Dad used to entertain their friends, local blockies, business people. They used to get oysters in from Melbourne and put them in the underground tank to keep them cool.“

all the blocks gone – there is 100 acres around us non-productive, all gone. Anybody that comes back from the old days is astonished to see it.” Edna Frankel (nee Morris) The Nichols Point Progress Association was active from the 1940s, leading developments at the Nichols Point Recreation Reserve and the town hall. Efforts had started after the First World War to establish a hall, but it took many years of effort to establish the community building.

“We had parquetry floor – we used to sit the kids on bags and drag them up and down the floor to polish it.”

“It was formed in 1947 at a meeting down on Kilpatrick’s block. Our first hall we got from behind the Cornell’s. It was corrugated iron and we cut it in half to try to load it and shift it to the recreation ground. They did everything with working bees in those days. We had the footy team there to lift it, but they still couldn’t, so we had to cut it in half again! We had some great times there. We had parquetry floor – we used to sit the kids on bags and drag them up and down the floor to polish it. The hall had fans gas-heating. The supper rooms came from out at the airport, a Nissen Hut. The hall was a central hub of the district. It was a pity that it eventually got closed up by the council, and they use it to store records now. But for lots of people and organisations it was an affordable place to have all sorts of functions, meetings, birthdays, weddings, the lot.” Edna and Jim Frankel “We had a hall at first, then in 1956 the brick hall was built. I was a builder and built it. They were talking about weatherboard, but we built a brick hall. Labor was so cheap. I’ve got a feeling we built that hall for four and a half thousand pounds.” John Miller “They were very active trying to create a sporting ground at Nichols Point. They got a little Nissen hut at the end of the War from the end of the Melbourne University Campus (previously the air training base at Mildura airport) and that was their first little hall for social outings. Then they used to run very big dances at Irymple in a large hall close to the corner of Koorlong Avenue and Fifteenth Street, and that was a money-raising effort that eventually allowed them to build the brick hall. That was a great community-binding endeavour.” Henry Tankard The Progress Association also agitated successfully for the introduction to the Nichols Point area of what were becoming essential modern services. “It was a very good progress association. It was responsible for getting telephone and power to the area. Nichols Point had been fairly poorly serviced by the fundamentals until that stage. (Electricity was introduced to Mildura from the council-run Mildura Power Station in the late 1920s – but outlying settlements were not serviced until almost 20 years later by

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Nichols Point cricket team, Premiership Season. Winners of the Mildura District Cricket Association B Grade, 1922-23. Image courtesy Jim Hensilwood.

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the SEC.) In the late 40s, around 1948, we got power down where I lived and also telephone, but it was the progress association that was the force in getting authorities to take action about getting those services out to the area. Nichols Point is vastly different to what it was then. The bricks and mortar that’s there now doesn’t bear any resemblance to what was at that time. There weren’t many houses as such. Between the Nichols Point shop and the channel, where there are quite a number of houses now, that was just Gordos or Walthams along there. Old Mrs Rawlings was one of the best Waltham growers in Australia.” Barry Kilpatrick “It was a very good progress association, but it hasn’t been active for a long time now. They were great times then – things like being involved in the progress association were part of the social outings, they were the entertainment. Once television came in that sort of stopped everything.” Edna Frankel

Cricket was the first organised sport to be played in the district and the Nichols Point Cricket Club was the first established in the early 1890s.

Cricket and tennis became synonymous with the district, and Nichols Point became renowned for producing more than its share of top-line players in both sports. Cricket was the first organised sport to be played in the district and the Nichols Point Cricket Club was the first established in the early 1890s. A cricket council was established in the Mildura district in 1895, and Nichols Point played a home game in the inaugural round of “pennant matches”. It has played in all of the various district competitions, including Sunraysia Cricket Association and the Red Cliffs Cricket Association. In the 1930s, a cricket pitch was established with the development of the Sandilong Park Complex, but before the 1950s cricket had returned to the Nichols Point Recreation Reserve. “It was a pretty rough oval that was there (at the recreation reserve). I can remember a series of tractors rotary hoeing it to sow some grass there. It really was just an earthen field with not too much limestone on it! And it now has its first turf wicket – some sort of transformation.” Henry Tankard The Hensgen family name is legendary in Nichols Point cricket history. “The early days had games at Sandilong Park, but then they were played at the Recreation Reserve. There were seven brothers in my dad Paddy’s family, and I think six or all seven played in the B Grade Premiership sides of 1935, 1936 and 1937. My Dad’s brother Les made a double century in Country Week Cricket – 204 at the West Footscray oval – and no-one has made a double century in country week before or since. I remember playing my first game in my dad’s team when I was 11. The facilities were pretty

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basic – a rotunda was the only real facility and the teams used to side on logs under the peppercorn trees.” Joe Hensgen There were two tennis clubs in the district, the Billabong Club and the Nichols Point Club. Billabong originally played on dirt courts in Cureton Avenue and Nichols Point on courts behind the church. The Nichols Point courts fell into disrepair after the First World War and tennis was moved to the Sandilong Reserve in the 1930s. Just before the World War Two, a group of school children petitioned for the courts to be re-established at Nichols Point, beside the primary school in Fifth Street. “There were old tennis courts at the Methodist Church, but they weren’t being used, just before the war. A group of us kids got together at school and we wanted to get tennis courts at Nichols Point. The council made a little dirt court for us at the recreation reserve near the school. We kids got it all going, and the adults came in and took it over!” Edna Frankel The courts were later finished with bitumen. (These were removed to make way for car parking in 2011.) The Nichols Point Recreation Reserve has also been the base for other sports including soccer and rugby. While organised sport was important most children from the 1940s and 1950s recall much of their time was spent “making our own fun”. “A pursuit that could only have its origins on vineyards were the clod fights. We would divide into two teams and take station a few vine rows apart. Then the battle would begin with each team hurling clods of earth at each other. This typically boys only exercise always ended the same way with some unfortunate not ducking quickly enough and someone’s mother telling us all to go home. One fact that cannot be exaggerated was the value to us of our push bikes. They represented freedom – they not only got us to school and to friends places but in those days of far fewer cars they took us to a wide range of destinations. Riding into town to catch the Saturday afternoon movie at the Ozone and Astor Theatres or getting to sporting events around the district are examples. Two of my friends on a Sunday peddalled from Nichols Point to Wentworth and back to see the Wentworth Air Show, a round distance of 40 miles.” Jim Henshilwood

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“A group of us kids got together at school and we wanted to get tennis courts at Nichols Point... ...We kids got it all going, and the adults came in and took it over!”

“You made your own entertainment, but a lot of the time we were down at the block. Picking, pulling out or going around the water.” Peter Wharton “The cricket pitch very close to Riverside Golf Club – I remember going down there when I was about five years old and watching Dad play. It’s just scrub now, but there was a malthoid or bitumen cricket pitch in there somewhere.” Jim Henshilwood “Tennis was the main sport around here at Billabong. There were tennis courts at Billabong – four earth courts that were in operation until from the 1930s to about the early 1970s. The Billabong Tennis Club used to close its membership at 50 because they had four courts, and they said that’s all they could really accommodate. Others played for Nichols Point. In my parents day in the 1930s and 40s they would travel all around the district for tennis tournaments – there used to be tournaments at Ouyen, Werrimull, Meringur – all of those places had tennis courts and tennis tournaments.” Peter Wharton

“...we briefly had a football team in the Millewa in around 1979... ...The team only lasted two years 1979-80. We had some dubious characters, but it was good fun.”

“We won the reserves Premiership in 1956 and we briefly had a football team in the Millewa in around 1979. I had played for Irymple and long finished then, but then went and played three games …on the third game I was still bruised from the first. The team only lasted two years 1979-80. We had some dubious characters, but it was good fun.” Jim Henshilwood The Cubs and Scouts were strong from the 1950s, and they were handed a ready-made home when the Nichols Point Pumping Station closed. “I had gone to Scouts for six months or so at Irymple then when the Nichols Point group started I came to that. Frank Morris was the first scoutmaster and it was held in the Morris’s barn in Fifth Street, adjacent to the 85 ft channel. An earthen floor and all the beaut smells of horses and leather and so on. Jack Keating was the assistant scoutmaster. We went on to participate in Jamborees in Wonga Park and Greystanes in Sydney, and Scouting was very active movement in Sunraysia at that time. I reckon we learnt some great lessons at the time that have stayed with us for life.” Henry Tankard “We first raised the money with bottle drives, then working bees and voluntary work. We had to build the floor and the stage. As a carpenter I got quite involved – A man would be divorced now, we spent so much time there! Vern Davey was a key man in those days. Dick Shard was a great scoutmaster as well. It’s just amazing how people gave their lives to these things.” John Miller

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“Cubs and Scouts were popular. I was Akela (group leader) for many years while my boys were growing up and for a few years afterwards. We would do camping, popcorn nights, go for badges and we had a good group of parents, too, in those days.” Betty Woods “There are a couple of other activities of those times that are worth a mention from the 1950s. Cracker night (or Guy Fawkes Night) was enthusiastically celebrated on November 5th each year. A mixture of exploding fireworks, hand held sparklers and sky rockets launched from empty bottles would be employed at small and large gatherings around the district. At some stage in the mid 1950s Mildura had its first Drive-In Movie Theatre erected. Packed houses watched films from the comfort of the family car. Young children would be dressed ready for bed in their pyjamas in the back seat. Wednesday night was the very popular “Ranch Night” devoted entirely to Cowboy films.” Jim Henshilwood The Scout Association continues to operate the hall, which is also used by groups including the Electric Light Theatre, the Nichols Point Art Group, the Murray to Moyne Cycle Relay, square dancing and the Sunraysia Two-Way Radio Association. The changeover of the pumping system from steam to electricity marked the end of an era for Nichols Point and King’s Billabong. The huge labor requirements associated with the operation of the wood-fired pumps was gone, and it was a time of some social adjustment. “After the pumps closed in the 1950s, there was only one or a few families stayed around working the electric pumps after they closed the wood-fired pumps. Most people shifted away to do other things. I don’t know why it was but there is one house, the Langankes, as you go down the hill from the Psyche Lift Pumps at the 70 foot. Just down there on the right hand side they used to live there. In floods they must have nearly got flooded out. I’m not sure what the arrangement was how they came to be there. Whether they worked the land or just squatted there, I’m not sure.” Brian Munroe “There used to be a few humpies in the 1960s down near the Billabong. We used to go down there often with the kids for weekends and so on, but you just knew to keep away from the areas around the humpies. They were probably returned soldiers and so on who couldn’t adjust. There were probably four or five humpies down there. One of them was known as “Bones” – there were bones from cattle or kangaroos that died down there (because all that area was leased out to dairyfarmers, from the Billabong to Red Cliffs), and Bones would collect them and sell them to make potash.” Doug and Betty Woods

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“At some stage in the mid 1950s Mildura had its first Drive-In Movie Theatre erected. Packed houses watched films from the comfort of the family car. Young children would be dressed ready for bed in their pyjamas in the back seat.”

“I used to be a nurse at the hospital, and if things were a bit quiet, we would get the Salvos to come down and pick up a couple of the old fellows and they would bring them in and make sure they went back out with clean clothes, a bath and their wounds dressed.” Betty Woods

However, the natural beauty of the area around King’s Billabong and the convenience of Nichols Point ensured the area would not be forgotten for long. The original Chaffey residential subdivisions at King’s Billabong began to attract more interest in the late 1960s. “When I moved there in the 1960s, even though Cooke Street had always been subdivided, it was still in vines. They took out the vines and just measured it all up in the 1970s and the housing development began from there.” Ray Smith “I think in the 1970s and 1980s Nichols Point really started to develop as somewhere to live. There was a lot of building as people started to move out from town.” John Miller While horticulture continued to be an important mainstay, Nichols Point and King’s Billabong began taking on a new status from the early 1980s. Its natural beauty and serenity, its proximity to the river and, ironically, its lack of a commercial focus became selling points for one of the region’s more desirable and family-friendly residential growth areas.

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1880s-2009

Above all, remember the golden rule of life - do unto others as you would have others do unto you.

Nichols Point State School, circa 1914. Image courtesy Des Fisher.

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There were few children and little opportunity for education in the very early days of settlement at Mildura Station. “Pioneers in the bush had but very little chance of schooling. Most fathers and mothers did what they could to teach their children to read and write, but there were plenty knocking about what had received no education whatsoever. On some of the stations, an elderly Englishman might be found with some learning, and he was known as a scholar. He would help a bit. Then sometimes one would find an educated man among the musterers and he also taught.” John Schell, Murray Pioneer, 1924 However the station lifestyle virtually disappeared at Mildura between 1888 and 1892. The population ballooned to 4000 and there were 400 names on the Mildura State School roll by 1892. Development was occurring at a similar rate in the Nichols Point and King’s Billabong area and the new families were demanding educational opportunities for their children. In 1890, the Board of Advice for the School District of Mildura met to consider applications for two new schools in the district. One of the requests was from 14 parents around Nichols Point, where 42 children required schooling.

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The first school building was a shelter made out of branches, erected on the site of the Methodist (now Uniting) Church in Nichols Point. The first students attended classes in the bough shelter in May 1892. Later in the year the Methodist Church Building was erected (Fifth St and Koorlong Ave) and classes were then held there. This served as the school house for about 15 years and its head teacher was F.W. Dudfield. (At the time, the Education Board was the only entity that referred to the locality as ‘Nicholl’s Point’, rather than the accepted locality spelling “Nichols Point”. It took until 1970 for the anomaly to be rectified.) “My father attended the Nichols Point State School in the early 1890s and had to walk the mile from his house. In those days much of the area had not been developed and I remember him telling me of having to walk through Mallee Scrub with kangaroos, snakes and goannas a common sight. The biggest problem, however, were the native companions or brolgas who would attack anyone who ventured too close to their nests during the breeding season. His schoolroom was the ‘Bough Shelter’ and he attended school until year 8 at which stage he was assisting the teacher with the younger pupils.” Jim Henshilwood “Two girls at a time used to clean out the rooms after school. They were paid 10 shillings a month.” Patricia Carter (nee Giles) The school rules were simple: 1 You are requested to conduct yourselves in the streets, public places and elsewhere, so that you may not cause annoyance nor give offence to other persons 2 Be always kind and gentle to others, and specially to the old, or weak or afflicted 3 Always avoid the use of bad language 4 Do no injury to the property of others, no matter how great or small its value may be 5 Be kind to dumb animals 6 Under all circumstances, be strictly truthful in word and deed 7 Always remember that you have in your hands the credit of your school and your own good name, and that these will be judged by your behaviour “Above all, remember the golden rule of life – Do unto others as you would have others do unto you.” Discipline was strict for those who were found to have transgressed.

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“In those days much of the area had not been developed and I remember him telling me of having to walk through Mallee Scrub with kangaroos, snakes and goannas a common sight.”

“I got the cuts nearly every week. You would go from the ‘small room’ we called it – that was up to the sixth grade – and you would have to go to the other end to get the cuts. There were two big cupboards there and we’d hide in them. We’d wait a while, then put a bit heap of spit in our eyes like tears, then go back to class sniffing and crying as if we’d been belted and we never even got the cuts! We got caught in the end though. There wasn’t any bullying. Everyone knew where they stood. There were two kids came from Melbourne. They learnt boxing they said in the police gymnasium and all this business. Of course the first thing we did was try to see how good they were but the teachers stopped us having a fight at lunchtime. That night we went out after school under the pepper trees and the teacher refereed it! They used to watch the fights because then they wouldn’t have a problem all year. All the boys knew if you could beat me, or I knew if I could beat you.” Gordon Smith Numbers increased to more than 100 students over the next 15 years. In 1907, a new Edwardian-style brick school was constructed at the opposite side of Fifth Street. It contained two large classrooms separated by a wide passage, two rooms for hats and coats, and a lavatory.

From the very beginning, schools in the Mildura settlement, including Nichols Point, struggled with the conflict between grape harvest and the school term.

Students in the Billabong area faced a long journey to and from school each day – either to Mildura, Nichols Point, or often, not at all. “Dad was going to school in Mildura before they moved out here, then he would ride his horse into St Joseph’s. The horse would be tied up at school for the day, then he would get back on it and ride home again.” Peter Wharton From the very beginning, schools in the Mildura settlement, including Nichols Point, struggled with the conflict between grape harvest and the school term. “A petition being taken round by Messrs R.M. Voullaire and J.B. Ritchie and others may be signed at Scott’s Newsagency, Mr Aug. Muller’s, the Workingman’s Club or the Nichol’s Point Store by parents of State school pupils who desire that the summer holidays might be altered to fit in with the grape harvest. It is pointed out in the petition that the grape harvest extends from the middle of February till April, and that during that time children can be of the greatest assistance at home. So that they might not lose their proper schooling it is suggested that the school be closed only for one week at Christmas time (Dec. 21 to Jan. 2), that lessons then be resumed for one month or six weeks, and that a holiday be given from February to the end of March. It is proposed to send down the petition before the end of this month, and parents who are not waited upon-should they fall in with the idea-might in the meantime leave their signatures at one of the places mentioned above.” Mildura Cultivator, July 9, 1904

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In 1908, the Nichols Point School had its first shelter shed erected – an impressive octagonal open-sided weatherboard structure, with currant vines trained up the outside. The school inspector noted it was “the best I have seen in an Australian school”. The school was also recognised for many years as having the best gardens in the district. “We had to dig up around the school flag-pole for playing up. Old Mr Arnold the teacher wanted to put some flowers in at the weekend, so he made us dig it up for punishment. The other kids were out playing football at the Nichols Point oval. We dug a bit up of the dirt, and made it all look nice. Then when he started putting in his flowers in he nearly broke his finger! We had dug up one area and just spread the wet dirt out over the rest!” Gordon Smith From 1908, parents around Irymple South and King’s Billabong began agitating for a school to be established in their area. For some children, Nichols Point School was nearly three miles by foot, pony or horse and cart, and some were unable to attend for this reason. A petition was signed by 22 parents and the likely enrolment was estimated at 39 students. The Irymple South School was completed at the end of 1911, and it opened the following year, drawing students from the southern side of 11th Street. By 1913, 44 pupils were enrolled at Irymple South. By 1916, there were problems with overcrowding. “Mr. John Henshilwood, correspondent of the Irymple South State School has sent along the following letter:-”With reference to the paragraph in last Saturday’s issue of your paper with regard to the accommodation at the Irymple South School. The Education Department has apparently solved the problem and also discovered the cause of the overcrowding--presumably with entire satisfaction to itself. The Department, in a communication, states that children residing nearer to Irymple will be enrolled at that school and that this course will “relieve the pressure” on the Irymple South School. The Department is in full possession of the facts of the case and after cold deliberation has found this method of relief, and still expects parents to send their children to be taught in a building which compares unfavorably with many a dog-kennel. In conclusion I would like to state that the Departmental mandate affects three children and three only.” Mildura Cultivator, August 9, 1916 The overcrowding issue went unresolved, and an open air classroom and an additional wooden building were built in 1918. However, only three years later the school noted the open air classroom to be unsuitable in winter! The school was a focal point of the community. In the final months of the First World War, Empire Day commemorations were held there.

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The school inspector noted it was “the best I have seen in an Australian school”. The school was also recognised for many years as having the best gardens in the district.

ABOVE Nichols Point State School, circa 1914. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society. RIGHT Nichols Point State School, circa 1918. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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Nichols Point State School (in a bough shed), circa 1908. Image courtesy Jim Hensilwood.

Third Grade at Nichols Point State School, circa 1920. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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“Nichols Point School: Empire Day was celebrated at Nichols Point School on 24th last. A fair number of parents and friends were present. ‘Cr. Wilkinson occupied the chair. After saluting the flag the children rendered a nice program of patriotic airs and readings, which were warmly appreciated. The chief items of the morning were the addresses by the Rev. R. Williams and Mr. C. J. DeGaris. Each speaker soon found the level of the children and kept them deeply interested. It was not the fault of either speaker if children did not leave the room with a good idea of what the British Empire is and what it stands for. Each one surely felt that he must do his best to become a good citizen of that Empire. In moving a vote of thanks to the speakers, the Chairman remarked that the children were fortunate in having listened to such clever addresses. The singing of the National Anthem and rousing cheers for the Empire brought a pleasant function to a close.” Mildura Cultivator, June 1, 1918

In 1923 the Irymple South School had provision for 54 students, and an enrolment of 122. Some students were sitting on the floor for classes. An additional classroom was commissioned the following year.

The picking season had challenged both the Nichols Point and Irymple South schools from the earliest days and was a continual source of frustration for education officials. “The percentage of promotions this year is 98. The number of retardants is rather large, 25 being over age, and is due chiefly, the teacher says, to the irregular attendance during the picking season, and parents taking their children away to the seaside during the hottest months of the year.” District Inspector’s Report, Nichols Point School, 1915 In 1923 the Irymple South School had provision for 54 students but an enrolment of 122. Some students were sitting on the floor for classes. An additional classroom was commissioned the following year. Children who lived at the Billabong went to either Nichols Point or Irymple South School. “They’re both about the same distance from the Billabong – about five mile I think. We went to Nichols Point. But we were lucky. We used to push a truck (rail trolley) along the (narrow-gauge) rail from what they called the wood landing at Bruce’s Bend across the flat to get to school. Mr Nancarrow had six horses and six trolleys and he would tow the wood up from there to the Billabong pumps. He would loan us one of his trolleys and we would push it from there and when we got to the bottom of Fifth Street we would just tip it over off the line so he could get through with his wood, and when we come home we’d just tip it back on again. We could push it along, then it would run along the rails and you could have a ride for quite a way. It was a lot quicker. If you walked around the road you had to go right around past what is now Woodsie’s Rock Shop. That road is still the same – the way the channel ran.” Gordon Smith

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“I rode my 20” Malvern Star push Bike to Nichols Point Primary School for six years from 1951. In the beginning the little bike was far too big for me and I had to be push started by mum at home and come to a stop against the school fence at the other end hoping I didn’t fall off on the journey. It was too small for me in my last year of State School and I received a full sized bike for Christmas in 1957 to ride to my first year in High School. The vast majority of children rode bikes to school in the 1950s. The roads had far less traffic on them than today as cars were not owned by everyone and there were still some horse drawn vehicles in use. While the main arteries such as 5th and 11th Streets were sealed, most of the side roads were not, making for treacherous cycling in wet weather.” Jim Henshilwood “When it rained at Merbein it used to rain across the whole district like that. And they used to ring up on the phone from Merbein – the old wind-up phone on the wall – and they would ring up and say: ‘Send the kids home from a long way away because it’s raining like hell here at Merbein’. So: ‘All you kids from the Billabong, Smiths, home you go!’ We never got home any earlier though! We had apples, peaches, pears and plums on our block at home, but we still had to pinch them on the way home from school.” Gordon Smith The continual threat of hazards from the Murray River made families anxious for children to learn to swim. The State School Director of Swimming, Mr Frank Beaurepaire, toured schools in the settlement in 1914. “Through the kindness of Mr J.W. Washington, who brought out his R.C.I. car, the journey was made under the most comfortable and enjoyable circumstances …Mr Beaurepaire spoke a few words of advice to the scholars on the matter of swimming and life-saving. This was the procedure followed at each school varied with interesting instruction on the best methods of release and life-saving. Mr Beaurepaire strongly urged the young folks to take up the pastime, seriously, so that they may become proficient and able to help others who get into difficulties. As he very aptly put it during one of his chats to the children: ‘Water is nothing to be afraid of; it is very good to wash in. It is a great thing to swim for exercise, but greater still to swim and save life’. The correct methods of swimming were also demonstrated, particular reference being made to the closed fingers, rigid arm and leg movements. Both boys and girls displayed keen interest in these chats by the Chief Instructor, and good results maybe anticipated. The chief consideration at the outlying schools was the construction of swimming basins. Mr Beaurepaire urged the laying down of small basins wherever possible, but could not promise any direct aid from the Department.” Mildura Cultivator, April 1, 1914

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“The vast majority of children rode bikes to school in the 1950s. The roads had far less traffic on them than today as cars were not owned by everyone and there were still some horse drawn vehicles in use.“

Swimming pool at Nichols Point State School, circa 1920s. Image courtesy Des Fisher.

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The Nichols Point School had its own concreted swimming dam from 1915. Installed for the instruction of children in swimming, the dam was 25 yards long and 12 yards wide with steep sides and ends. The depth was 3ft to 4ft 6. The dam was concreted and filled shortly before the visit of the governor Sir Ronald Munro, in 1916. The school committee told the VIPs the pool was no good because it could not be emptied, and asked the Government for a windmill and pump. These arrived soon after. But students at the school in the 1920s recall the pool being re-filled irregularly. “The swimming pool only had one of those slush pumps, and we used to fill it out of the channel and it had horse manure and everything in it. You could only swim in it one night, when it was 110, 115 degrees (F), the way we used to get it every day, and the kids would all piddle in it and it would be stinking by tomorrow!” Gordon Smith “By the time I attended Primary School (in the 1950s) the brick building which was erected in 1907 was the hub of Nichols Point. Opposite the school were the General Store and the Church. The school’s outbuildings were a toilet block, the well-designed shelter shed and a roofed bike rack. There was a concrete swimming pool full of unchlorinated rather slimy water that we used to swim in on hot days and the sports oval. In between these last two was the Headmaster’s residence.” Jim Henshilwood Irymple South also had a swimming dam, complete with windmill and safety fence, by 1917. The dams continued to be used for swimming instruction and competition until they were filled in, around the 1960s. Conditions for students in the 1930s and 1940s were harsh, although the district inspector’s report at the Nichols Point School in 1940 notes: “The provision of a fireplace and chimney in the pavilion class room has greatly improved conditions during the cold winter months.” “The severe drought of the 1940s generated soil erosion and frequent dust storms. Mallee soil landed in New Zealand in that period. In February 1944, swirling red sand blanketed the district, reducing visibility to arm’s length soon after the release of the lower grade students at 3.30 pm. Parents left the grape harvest to find their children. The Tankard Clydesdale delivered its cartload of children to their homes on that eerie afternoon.” Henry Tankard

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“The severe drought of the 1940s generated soil erosion and frequent dust storms. Mallee soil landed in New Zealand in that period.”

“Wooden floors, wooden desks with messy ink wells; huge blackboards and raised platforms for teachers. Hot in summer, but warmed in winter with open fires; a serve of warm milk for morning break.” Des Morris, Nichols Point School Centenary In 1934, electric lights were installed in the Nichols Point School and residence, and, in 1936, at Irymple South School. In the 1940s, loudspeakers were also installed in classrooms to assist with school radio program broadcasts. The years of the Second World War led to shortages of essential goods and services, and rationing of food. The education department was unable to supply many requisites, including, the schools noted, footballs and basketballs.

“...the head, Mr Findlay, lived at the school house. We called him Spring Heel Jack, as he wore his trousers slightly short and lifted his heels with a spring at each step. He was a very nice man and most conscientious.”

“Gray Dyason and I rode our bikes out each morning from Mildura – all the teachers rode bikes – it was war time, no petrol, and only the head, Mr Findlay, lived at the school house. We called him Spring Heel Jack, as he wore his trousers slightly short and lifted his heels with a spring at each step. He was a very nice man and most conscientious. Miss Carney, the infant mistress, was a Catholic spinster of about 40 who took her charges very seriously. She was a large woman, dyed her hair black, and occasionally told Gray and I about The Warnings her Roman Catholic mother gave her. If a boy kissed you, you were likely to become pregnant. She assured us this didn’t actually happen, but we were to restrict our outings with boys to a mild kiss goodnight! One day the Inspector came unannounced and walked into my classroom. I was sitting at a desk helping one of the boys with his work. War time – no stockings etc, and I had on a short cotton dress, no makeup and sandals, and probably looked about 12. I was just 17. I had matriculated at 16, then had two years to fill in before uni. Anyway, the inspector said he wanted to speak to the teacher. I stood up again and tried to speak but he snarled: “I told you to sit down girl”. On the third attempt I gave up, but the boy next to me put up his hand and said: “Please Sir, she is the teacher”. Thus I was allowed to walk out to the platform! “ Pattie Little (nee Henshall), Nichols Point School Centenary “Some details of the mindsets that we grew up with are interesting. We would salute the flag every Monday morning to the tune of “God save the King” until Elizabeth II became Queen. We would then recite the oath ‘I love God and my country, I’ll honour the flag, I’ll serve the Queen and cheerfully obey my parents teachers and the law’. The Queen’s visit to Mildura in 1954 was greeted with an outpouring of patriotism by us flag waving students. Sunraysia Daily described it as ‘the greatest day in the history of the North West’.” Jim Henshilwood “I remember a re-enactment in the 1950s of the arrival of Charles Sturt at Bruce’s Bend. There were a lot of people there, and they had actors

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come down the river on a boat and do the re-enactment for the centenary. We were all there, and the scouts and school kids. I’m not sure Sturt had actually stopped at Bruce’s Bend, but we had the re-enactment there, anyway.” Edna Frankel The enrolment at Nichols Point had reached 183 by the early 1950s and classes were being run in the church. The situation was brought to an abrupt and dramatic end in 1954. “Fire burnt down the church classroom at the Nichols Point school. 1953 or 54. We turned up for school and didn’t have a classroom so we thought it was terrific but they shoved us over in the main building, so we didn’t even miss a day of classes!” Jim Henshilwood “THE oldest church in Mildura district, the Nichol’s Point Methodist, was burnt to the ground in a spectacular fire early today. Nichol’s Point is about five miles from Mildura. By the time Mildura Fire Brigade arrived the church was burning furiously and nothing could be saved. Mr. J. Romanes, the school head master, had used a hand fire extinguisher unavailingly. One feature of the church was the Lord’s Prayer, occupying one wall and printed in gold in 1902. Loss of the church robs the local school of a class room. The only local records of Nichol’s Point were removed from the church only a few days ago.” The Argus, September 9, 1954 “I think the possums got in and chewed the electricity wires. I was working at the Nichols Point Pumps and we were knocking off – I could see it burning. We thought it was houses on fire. We shot up here on the motorbike, but it was too late. Of course it was full of birds’ nests and things and it just burnt. There were big pine trees alongside too, that were burnt.” Jim Frankel An extra classroom and a staffroom were finally commissioned in 1955-56. The rapid growth in the population at Nichols Point and children’s attendance at school caused challenges for education authorities. In the 1950s and 1960s, children of the post-war migration boom began attending the school. The schools also continued to grapple with the challenges of the dried fruit harvest. Until the 1970s and early 80s, the huge areas under dried fruit vines required a surge in the district population for the picking. The dried fruit harvest was the primary driver of the Nichols Point economy but caused social issues and problems in housing and schools.

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“Fire burnt down the church classroom at the Nichols point school. 1953 or 54. We turned up for school and didn’t have a classroom so we thought it was terrific but they shoved us over in the main building, so we didn’t even miss a day of classes!”

“All the Italians and Greeks and to a lesser degree the Yugoslavs who came out in the 1940s I grew up with their kids. They are just as Australian as the rest of us now. Mildura’s been a really brilliant assimilation experiment I reckon. It only took one generation and they were all playing footy for Irymple and we got on famously.” Jim Henshilwood “Temporary attendance of children of itinerant families presents a problem in readily assessing standards and deciding on appropriate grade placement. Also, approximately half of the present infant intake are from migrant families, and have little or no initial command of English. Teachers are doing well to provide the necessary opportunities for oral communication in such cases.” District Inspector H. Tater’s Report on Nichols Point School, 1966. In the 1980s, major redevelopments were carried out in five stages at the Nichols Point School, as the district changed from primarily a horticultural zone to a mix of horticultural and residential development. In the 1990s, more portables and a new administration building were added. Nichols Point School celebrated its centenary on April 10, 1992, but as it continued to outgrow its relatively small site, intensive lobbying for a new purpose-built school stepped up pace. After concerted lobbying by the school council, staff and community, funding was announced in 2005 for a new school on a site next to the existing school. Construction began in 2006 and the new school buildings, built for an enrolment of 265 students, were occupied from the beginning of 2007. In 2008, another large relocatable building was brought in to accommodate continued enrolment growth, which had reached 319.

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“’Country’ in Aboriginal English is not only a common noun, it is a proper noun. People speak to country, sing to country, visit country, feel sorry for country and look for country… Country knows, hears, smells, takes notice, takes care, is sorry or happy… Because of this richness, country is home, and peace; nourishment for the body, mind and spirit; hearts ease.” Ken Taylor, Country Landscape and Belonging Exhibition, 1998, National Heritage Trust.

King’s Billabong wetlands, current day. Image courtesy Chris Woods.

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The vast floodplains, wetlands and forests of Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong and Nichols Point had stood undisturbed for many thousands of years prior to European settlement. The influence of the first Australians on their local environment was limited to that which was required for food, comfort and transportation. Even the earliest squatters and graziers, with their few thousand head of stock, had made only a small impact on this beautiful place. The 1888 arrival of the Chaffey Brothers, with their ambitious plans for irrigation settlements, heralded a period of rapid environmental change at Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong and Nichols Point. Within four years of their arrival, the landscape had been transformed. Wetlands and forests that had, for millennia, been primarily influenced by the seasons were now part of a settlement and farming vision and the Billabong and Nichols Point were the centrepiece of this vision. Within less than a decade, the Billabong, that had previously ebbed and flowed with the seasons, had become an irrigation storage, land had been cleared at a frenetic pace to create a model orchard and society, and large areas of trees had

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been cleared to meet the huge wood requirements of the steam-driven pumps of the irrigation system. “Overall, the environment…has been substantially modified by past European land use practices. This has included removal of much of the original vegetation and extensive earthworks associated with modifying the land surfaces of the channels and construction of concrete bridges and earthen causeways.” King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Management Plan The success of the Chaffey Brothers’ plans depended entirely on access to water. The natural properties of the billabong were perfect for a secure irrigation supply. The Chaffeys installed a barrage to hold the water, and pumps to feed the Billabong when nature did not. While the impact of land clearing on the natural environment of Nichols Point was dramatic, the effects of development were more gradual. Despite its ongoing transformation, each generation has been captured by the magic of King’s Billabong. “There were a lot of possums down there. There used to be sea eagles nesting down there. I remember that from when I was young. Someone shot them eventually. There were 180 species of birds down there. When we were kids down at Horseshoe Billabong was all cumbungi – we used to climb up a tree to see what was over the other side. We could hear all the quacking from in there.” Alec Hawtin “There would be birds everywhere (in the 1950s) on the Billabong itself and out on the river. Cranes, hawks, kookaburras, shags, water hens – plenty of those – and a lot of dab-chicks.” John Gothorp “We could go out there and shoot ducks and everything. We used to live off the ‘bong. What my father got in wages was nothing. You would go down there with the muzzle-loader, where you stuff the charge down the barrel, and he’d get eight or ten in a go and the dog would go out and get them or we’d get them in the boat, and you’d have duck, duck, duck. Mother would do it up different every night. You’d have roast tonight and some other thing tomorrow night. Then when we would want fish, and we would have tray boards that they used to have for drying fruit, and we’d put a big hook down hanging from it, and a big black yabby the length of your hand. Then we’d row through the weeds, and it would leave your oar mark and your boat mark, and you would come to these round rings with no weed on it, and you would leave the flat board on the top of the weeds. In the morning you would go around and pick them up and you would have a catfish on every one – beautiful catfish are the best of the lot. Then

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“We could go out there and shoot ducks and everything. We used to live off the ‘bong. What my father got in wages was nothing.”

if we wanted rabbits, we would go down to the wood stacks and put the traps down there to trap them.” Gordon Smith “The Sunraysia Field Naturalists had a bird hide down at the Billabong. We built it in 1964 when the water was low in the Billabong. We were regular visitors and it was a great spot to watch birds. It was a bit snaky out there. Sometimes we would see half a dozen snakes on the way out to the bird hide. We would see Bush Stone Curlews – they used to nest there. We did a weekly count of birds for four years between 1962 to 1966. We had a retired accountant Hallet Thomas who used to oversee the count.” Alec Hawtin “In 1963 Mildura Shire Council gave the Sunraysia Naturalists’ Research Trust permission to use the pumphouse at Kings Billabong as headquarters for the study of Natural History. People donated funds and worked to improve the building and surrounding area. Many trees and shrubs were planted. Bird counts were started and a bird hide was erected, migrant birds were banded and nests counted. Research was also carried out on plants, shells, insects, butterflies and spiders. Although the research continued, the lease on the pumphouse ended in June 1969.” Helen Devilee, Sunraysia Field Naturalists The natural beauty of the area has ensured it has held a special place for generations of Mildura families.

“When it dries off the insect life and stuff go down into the mud, but when the water goes in, they are coming out, and the birds are there in their hundreds.”

“There was a snake charmer and I took him over there and filled his bag in 20 minutes. You would go home and they would be on the floor of your house, because the doors never shut properly in those days. Nobody ever got bitten, but if you did you’d be dead, because by the time they got the horse and yoked it up and got into Mildura, it would take you an hour. The first car out there was one the foreman of the pumps had, it was an Austin Seven.” Gordon Smith “When it dries off the insect life and stuff go down into the mud, but when the water goes in, they are coming out, and the birds are there in their hundreds. Alec Hawtin “The old man was a mad fisherman, and whenever he went fishing I went fishing. He knew all the blokes at the pumps. You would go down there and catch the fish where the water pumped out into the Basin. It used to be a beautiful fishing spot because the water would roar in there. When they started up the pumps the perch would come up out of the ‘bong. They would always come on. Fresh water means fresh tucker, so up they would come.” John Gothorp

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“My son used to fish in the Billabong in the early 1990s. The Perch in the river are muscly and tight, the ones from the Billabong were fatty. They didn’t have any current to swim against.” Alec Hawtin The ecology of King’s Billabong was steadily modified. At one stage, an area near the pumping station was designated as a tip. “The King’s Billabong Pumps faced towards the north east, more towards the east. When they finished with the ash and stuff, they used to just drag it out and just push it into the water. So there was a big ash pit there. And it was a great place for the tortoises to lay their eggs, and we would sit there and watch the little fellas come out. We would sit there for hours and watch these little tortoises hatch. It was facing the right direction and it had the right consistency of warmth in it and the tortoises loved it, they reckoned it was a great spot to lay eggs.” Brian Munroe “My brother had a Vanguard van and we went down to get the horse and lead her home. We got to the cattle ramp and trotted her across it – we didn’t realise it was there. She could have broken her leg. The next year Dad sent me down on the pushbike to get her. There were a few settlers down along there and one of them helped me catch her. But the old stinker of a horse wouldn’t lead away from the others. So I led her across an ants’ nest – I had trouble keeping up with her then!” Alec Hawtin “There was a quantum change in the 1960s. They started locking gates down there, and you couldn’t get anywhere. I still could, cos I had a bike and I would just throw it over the fence and keep going. All the common area where the horses and cows used to go – my dad used to take the draft horses down there on occasions to build up again because all we had was a little channel bank for them to graze on. They stopped all that. But the next thing it turned into an absolute tip. Old cars, rubbish, everything down there. Down at the King’s Billabong pumping station it was actually designated a tip for a while, and we used to take our rubbish down there. There was a fellow Keller who was custodian of the tip. As you look at King’s Billabong pumping station and just to the left of it there is a little levee bank there and right along the levee bank there it was a tip.” Brian Munroe Efforts began from the late 1960s to clean up the Billabong and restore some of its natural beauty. “In the 1970s when we opened the Bruce’s Bend Kiosk, we had a trailer made up and Diana’s (nee Ferguson) father and I would start from the yabby channel (drainage channel at Bruce’s Bend) and go right through

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“So there was a big ash pit there. And it was a great place for the tortoises to lay their eggs, and we would sit there and watch the little fellas come out. We would sit there for hours and watch these little tortoises hatch.”

to Psyche. We would have twenty 44 gallon drums all painted green, and we would go through there at least a couple of times a week to collect up all the bins, tip all the rubbish in our trailer, and take it all out to the tip at Koorlong.” Kevin Davison

“Stuff people had dumped was unreal. Old houses remains, household rubbish. Cans and plastic bottles – plastic bottles are the curse of the Earth.”

“It got a bit ratty there for a while. Parts of it were a rubbish tip. There was a lot of working bees put into it to clean up. We carted rubbish away. I have a one-tonne ute, we would take two of them down, and we would fill them a couple of times easy. And there were other one-tonners down there too. Stuff people had dumped was unreal. Old house remains, household rubbish. Cans and plastic bottles – plastic bottles are the curse of the Earth.” John Gothorp Public land managers have taken a more active involvement in the protection of King’s Billabong and its wetlands since the 1980s. The gradual recovery of the landscape is now aided by the development of a management plan to protect King’s Billabong, and its wetlands of international significance. The plan is the result of extensive consultation between Parks Victoria and the local community and was prepared in partnership with the Mallee Catchment Management Authority. “The plan seeks to protect and enhance this important area and its values, while encouraging tourism and recreational activities such as bushwalking, nature appreciation, cycling, picnicking, camping, fishing, bird-watching, canoeing, dog-walking, horse-riding and motorbike touring at sustainable levels.” Kym Schramm, Parks Victoria “When I was a kid I used to go fishing in the Billabong in an old tin rowboat and there used to be a lot of huge redgum trees out in the middle. Stumps and trees. Before the water was left at the same level all the time, it must have dried out periodically for those redgums to survive. Once it was flooded permanently they just all died. Before they put the embankment in it would have been a beautiful area, it would have been just magic. When the water dried out it would have been green on the edges and pools of water in there still. It would have been magic. I still love roaming around down there.” Brian Munroe “The Chaffeys put a bag bridge across to dam the billabong. Years later, it was cut off so cars couldn’t get through it. It was amazing just how quickly nature took over again.” Jim Henshilwood

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The reserve’s protection is supported by the community-based Friends of King’s Billabong, which carries out work to help maintain the health and integrity of the area. “Craig Millard was one of the main instigators, and Marjory Donnellan. Russell Manning was the Ranger in Charge at the time and the group was set up with project funding from Parks Victoria. They used to do all the things that OH&S meant we weren’t allowed to do – poisoning, chainsawing, bob-catting and so on. So Parks would deliver a load of sand and we would form the pathways and things like that. We’re an incorporated group, so we now operate quite independently and apply for outside funding. Parks Victoria still supports us with manpower when we need it, but we apply for funding from all sorts of sources – Government, special projects, even corporate.” Tressna Martin and Bruce Summerfield, Friends of King’s Billabong “Friends of Kings Billabong spent a huge amount of time picking up trailer loads of rubbish because it was really a bit of a dumping ground. All the houses down from Laurel Avenue to First Street all had about 10 acres of the billabong as part of their properties. They had cows in there, but it was also treated as a bit of a spot to dump rubbish.” Betty Woods Among the projects undertaken to enhance the appreciation and understanding of the Billabong is the construction of a viewing area, developed off Cureton Avenue overlooking the Billabong. It provides a starting point for newcomers to the area, and includes site information detailing many of the attractions and historic features of the reserve. The Friends group has helped to develop and maintain several scenic walks through the Billabong area. These include a short 200 metre walk from the lookout to the water’s edge, a 3.5 km walk called the “Bird Hide Loop”, and the “Duck’s Foot Lagoon”, and a 9.5 km walk, beginning at the Billabong Walks carpark. “The group probably would have been able to attract $300,000 in funding for various projects. One of the big ones has been the Woorlong Wetlands, which was more than $100,000 on its own. We’ve planted over 7000 plants, put down 25 kilometres of irrigation and drippers. There are blackbox trees, saltbush, eumong wattle, emu bush and pigface, all under a dripper system. About 16 kilometres of walking tracks and more to come. A lot of pest plant removal. Information and interpretive signboards around the walks. About 20 picnic benches and tables. Wheelchair accessible picnic tables at the lookout.” Tressna Martin, Friends of King’s Billabong

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“The Chaffeys put a bag bridge across to dam the billabong. Years later, it was cut off so cars couldn’t get through it. It was amazing just how quickly nature took over again.”

Dam at Psyche Bend during drought, circa 1914. Image courtesy Mildura & District Historical Society.

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Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong in 2013. Image courtesy Chris Woods.

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They’re one of the most active Friends groups in Victoria – they’re really busy – and it’s a relatively young group. They’re great. The challenge is managing the demand that’s put on such a willing group – to get projects done, but to keep it fun.” Bruce Summerfield, Parks Victoria Liaison Ranger for Friends of King’s Billabong The group’s projects have also included two boardwalks, opened in 2012, built from recycled polystyrene, plastic and wood fibre. The Bagg’s Bridge Boardwalk and the Butler’s Boardwalk improve pedestrian access to key areas of the reserve, while reducing the resulting environmental damage. In a response to increasing visitation to the area, toilets designed to withstand flooding were installed at the Billabong in 2013.

Ecologists are discovering more about the importance of reinstating more natural variations in wetland water levels and work has also been undertaken at King’s Billabong to achieve this aim.

Ecologists are discovering more about the importance of reinstating more natural variations in wetland water levels. Work has been undertaken at King’s Billabong to achieve this aim with a regulator was installed at Psyche Channel in 2013. When the regulator is operated, it will allow the water levels in the Billabong to be varied. This will include closing the gates to lowering the water level in King’s Billabong by up to one metre in the irrigation off-season. During this draw-down, the regulator gates will be closed and the water level in the billabong will slowly decline as water from Pysche Channel stops topping it up. The gates would then be re-opened and the water levels would rise to refill the Billabong to meet irrigation requirements. “The King’s Billabong environmental regulator is a really important project because it demonstrates that it is possible to manage a water body in a way that balances the needs of the community, the environment and irrigation. Reinstating more natural variations in water levels in King’s Billabong is a balancing act between the irrigation, social and environmental needs of the Billabong – because one need cannot outweigh the others.” Jenny Collins, Mallee CMA A King’s Billabong Operating Plan Community Advisory Group was formed in 2011 to provide community input into the development of an operating plan for the regulator. Advisory group members included representatives from the Friends of King’s Billabong, the Sunraysia Bird Observers’ Club, the irrigation sector, nearby residents and agencies such as Lower Murray Water and Parks Victoria. The operating plan identifies the past operation of the Billabong and the effects of this on the ecosystem’s function and health; identifies the ecological and community objectives for managing the Billabong; and documents a plan to achieve water regime targets and contingency options if changes are required.

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“Because one need cannot outweigh the others, it will take some time to see the environmental benefits of operating the regulator. The environment takes time to adjust to different water patterns.” Jenny Collins, Mallee CMA The enduring beauty of the King’s Billabong Wildlife Reserve and its recognition as one of Sunraysia’s most high-value conservation areas is a tribute to the resilience of the area’s natural environment. “I was lucky I grew up on the river and it was part of my life and a happy part of my life. It still is. I still go down there three mornings a week fishing. I have seen the river in its good times and its bad times. When we went through the salt stage in the 1970s when forests were dying in front of your eyes. The gumtrees were dying at the Riverside Golf Club. With the salt interception works they have everywhere the river is recovering and the gumtrees are coming back and the sandbars are coming back to life with the gum suckers everywhere. They just don’t realise how it has recovered. The salt interception work has revitalised the whole river system. People don’t realise how much the river has regenerated and got back to how it used to be. They still think the Murray is stuffed, it’s had it. But it’s not true. I am out there three days a week, and I see it.” George Matotek

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“I was lucky I grew up on the river and it was part of my life and a happy part of my life. It still is.”

Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong bird hide. Image courtesy Chris Woods.

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Pre European Settlement A few notes on the dialects, habits, customs, and mythology of the Lower Murray Aborigines - Peter Beveridge - Transactions and Proceedings of the Royal Society of Victoria 1861-4 Mitchell and Dixson, Libraries Manuscripts Collection, Museum of NSW SJ Hemming, Ngurunderi: A Ngarrindjeri Dreaming, Records of the SA Museum Notes of Edward John Eyre, 1838 Aboriginal Language Victoria Victorian Aboriginal Corporation for Indigenous Languages Aboriginal Spatial Organisation in far north west Victoria – a reconstruction by Ian Clark, University of Ballarat Trove: National Museum Newspaper records Mildura Historical Society records Museum of Victoria Blandowski Exhibition 2008 Thesis: The Repatriation of Aboriginal Cultural Artifacts – a viable option Rachel Lenehen, Flinders University AFL Historian and author Greg de Moore Records of Captain Charles Sturt, Museum of Foreign Literature and Science Thomas Hill Goodwin diaries Ronald Parsons, Where the Mallee Meets the Murray: A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura 1990 Mallee CMA Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Plan, King’s Billabong Interview with Mary Chandler, 2013 Sunraysia Daily Gondwana Consulting report, Cultural Significance of the Murray Cod to the Aboriginal People of the Murray Darling Basin

Exploration and early history King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Plan Museum of Victoria – Blandowski Exhibition 2008 Australian Institute of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Studies JHL Cumpston Charles Sturt, His Life and Journeys of Exploration 1951 Notes of Edward John Eyre, 1838 Researcher Peter Reilly, River Murray Heritage

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Ronald Parsons, Where the Mallee Meets the Murray: A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura 1990 Mallee CMA King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Plan Interview John Schell, Murray Pioneer The Colonial Custom House at Mildura by Sydney Wells Will Drage, crewman, Steamer Gem, notes held by Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement Trove: National Museum Newspaper records William Blandowski’s Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Aboriginal Australia Harry Allen (editor) Interview Henry Tankard 2013

River trade Peter J Reilly, Murray River Heritage website Trove: National Museum Newspaper records Interview with Henry Tankard 2013 Mildura Historical Society records Ronald Parsons, Where the Mallee Meets the Murray: A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura 1990 Sydney Wells, The Colonial Custom House at Mildura Sunraysia Daily newspaper records Will Drage, crewman Steamer Gem, notes held by Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement Interview Leon Wagner 2010

Woodcutting and grazing Interview Leon Wagner 2010 Sunraysia Daily newspaper records Interview Henry Tankard 2013 Interview Peter Wharton 2013 Trove: National Museum Newspaper records Interview Ian and Jean Hinks (nee Moser) and Marjorie Moser 2013 Interview Gordon Smith 2013 Interview Ray Smith 2013 Interview Brian Munroe 2013 Interview Maurie Wedlake 2013

Records First Mildura Irrigation Trust Interview Alec Hawtin 2013 Interview Roy Ferry 2013 Interview Jim and Edna Frankel 2013 Interview Ken Wright 2013 Interview Doug and Betty Woods 2013 Sunraysia Field Naturalists records State Wildlife Investigation Committee report 1964

Irrigation Interview Henry Tankard 2013 Interview Ian and Jean Hinks (nee Moser) and Marjorie Moser 2013 Interview Barry Kilpatrick 2013 John Henshilwood Pioneering Days in Mildura 1950 Sydney Wells, The Colonial Custom House in Mildura Victorian Royal Commission 1896 Trove: National Museum Newspaper records Australian Dictionary of Biography Interview Keith “Cocky” Frankel 2013 Ronald Parsons, Where the Mallee Meets the Murray: A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura 1990 Australian Dictionary of Biography Interview Leon Wagner 2010 Interview Jim and Edna Frankel 2013 Sunraysia Daily newspaper records Interview Alec Hawtin 2013 Interview Jim Henshilwood 2013 Interview Doug and Betty Woods 2013 First Mildura Irrigation Trust records Records of Australian Dried Fruits Association Interview Brian Munroe 2013 Interview Chas Watson 2013 Interview Barry Kilpatrick 2013 Interview Peter Wharton 2013 Interview Maurie Wedlake 2013 Interview Ken Wright 2013

Business activity The Red Book – Australia’s Inland Irrigation Settlements 1887 Interview Gordon Smith 2013 Ronald Parsons, Where the Mallee Meets the Murray: A Centenary History of the Shire of Mildura 1990 John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura 1950 Interview Lance Milne 2013 Trove: National Museum Newspaper records Obituary ES Gregory by Alice Lapthorne Notes of Des Morris, 2012 Interview Ray Smith 2013 Interview Roy Ferry 2013 Letter from Henry Witcher to Ray Smith Interview Jim and Edna Frankel 2013S Interview Henry Tankard 2013 Sunraysia Daily records Interview Keith “Cocky” Frankel 2013 Interview Alec Hawtin 2013 Interview Peter Wharton 2013 Interview Doug and Betty Woods 2013 Interview Jim Henshilwood 2013 FMIT Reports 1970 Interview Barry Kilpatrick 2013 Interview Brian Munroe 2013 Interview Charles Watson 2013 Interview Maurie Wedlake 2013 Interview Ken Wright 2013 Interview Kevin Davison Interview Ian and Jean Hinks (nee Moser) and Marjorie Moser 2013 Interview John Miller 2013 Interview Wayne Roberts 2013 The Adelaide Register 1904

Home and family John Henshilwood Pioneering Days in Mildura 1950 Interview Henry Tankard 2013 Interview John Miller 2013

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Notes of Mike Witcher Interview Keith “Cocky” Frankel 2013 Trove: National Museum Newspaper records Interview Ian and Jean Hinks (nee Moser) and Marjorie Moser 2013 Interview Gordon Smith 2013 Nichols Point School Centenary Notes of Mike Witcher Interview Jim Henshilwood 2013 Interview Brian Munroe 2013 Interview Roy Ferry 2013 Interview John Miller 2013 Interview Brian Munroe 2013 Interview Chas Watson 2013

Education Trove: National Museum Newspaper records Interview Jim Henshilwood 2013 Nichols Point Centenary Interview Gordon Smith 2013 Interview Peter Wharton 2013 Sunraysia Daily records Interview Henry Tankard 2013 Notes of Des Morris Interview Jim and Edna Frankel 2013

The environment Recreation and community Trove: National Museum Newspaper records John Henshilwood, Pioneering Days in Mildura 1950 Obituary ES Gregory by Alice Lapthorne Sunraysia Daily records Interview John Miller 2013 Interview Gordon Smith 2013 Mildura Historical Society records Mildura Racing Club records Interview Bill McNab 2013 Interview Jim Henshilwood 2013 Nichols Point School Centenary Interview Jim and Edna Frankel 2013 Interview John Miller 2013 Interview Henry Tankard 2013 Interview Barry Kilpatrick 2013 Notes of Des Morris Interview George Matotek 2013 Interview Chas Watson 2013 Interview Doug and Betty Woods 2013 Interview Joe Hensgen 2013 Interview Peter Wharton 2013 Interview Ray Smith 2013

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Country, Landscape and Belonging Exhibition 1998 National Heritage Trust King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Plan Interview Alec Hawtin 2013 Interview John Gothorp 2013 Interview Gordon Smith 2013 Records of Sunraysia Field Naturalists Interview Gordon Smith 2013 Interview Ken Wright 2013 Interview Brian Munroe 2013 Interview Kevin Davison 2013 Interview Tressna Martin, Bruce Summerfield, Friends of King’s Billabong Interview Doug and Betty Woods 2013 Mallee CMA King’s Billabong Aboriginal Cultural Heritage Management Plan 2012 Arron Wood “Billabong Boy” New Holland Books 2010 Interview Brian Munroe 2013 Interview Jim Henshilwood 2013 Interview Jenny Collins Mallee CMA 2013 Interview George Matotek 2013

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Henry Tankard Henry Witcher Ian and Jean Hinks (nee Moser) Jenny Collins Jim Frankel Jim Henshilwood Joe Hensgen John Gothorp John Henshilwood John Miller John Schell Keith ‘Cocky’ Frankel Kevin Davison Kym Schramm Leon Wagner Marjorie Moser

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Alec Hartwin Barb Cornell Barry Kilpatrick Bill McNabb Brian Munroe Charlie ‘Chas’ Watson Chris Woods Des Fisher Des Morris Doug and Betty Woods Edna Frankel (nee Morris) George Matotek Gordon Smith Grist Archaeology Heritage Management Helen Devilee

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Sincere thanks to all those who agreed to share their memories of the King’s Billabong and Nichols Point area, and to those who were kind enough to provide images to be reproduced within this document.

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This oral history was commissioned by the Mallee Catchment Management Authority (CMA), with funding from the Victorian Government. This document was written and compiled by Terry and Jacinta Gange.

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This oral history of the Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Billabong and Nichols Point area is by no means the entire story of this region. The Mallee CMA recognises many more people have valuable contributions to make to the oral history of this area and we would love to hear from you so your memories can be added to future updates. Please contact the Mallee CMA by calling 03 5051 4377 or via an email to reception.malleecma@depi.vic.gov.au

ÂŠ 2014 Mallee Catchment Management Authority

ISBN: 978-1-920777-14-2

Disclaimer: This publication may be of assistance to you but the Mallee Catchment Management Authority and its employees do not guarantee that the publication is without flaw of any kind or is wholly appropriate for your particular purpose and therefore disclaims all liability for any error, loss or other consequence that may arise from you relying on any information in this publication.