The Aromas We Carry

A dive into the scents, smells, and spices that make up Austin’s diverse culinary traditions

By: Aditya Ghatty

Austin is well known as one of the major cuisine capitals of the United States, and rightly so. Eatery enjoyers and food fanatics in Austin are bound by no limits when it comes to the most exquisite array of culinary delights to choose from in the city. Calling out to you at every corner of the city, you can drown in anticipation when faced with a line of Turkish Mezzes or stare in mouth-watering delight as a palette of color lines a plate of Ethiopian Injera bread. Perhaps you will be summoned by the bold but sweet sounds of Reggae and Calypso, a staple ingredient in any Jamaican meal.

Along with the influx of Austin has dozens of new restaurants and food trucks popping up before you have the chance to try the last. These restaurants seemingly come from thin air, but they have roots reaching all around the world. The unique stories of culture and immigration we all hold are ones that each and every one of us can display with the utmost pride in our heritage, community, and social identity. The vibrance of culture, color, customs, and cuisine is multiplied in our community through these stories and there is no better example of this than the Unique flavors of Austin, Texas.

Culture is the living artistic manifestation of the human story, and it subtly but beautifully influences the words we say, the sights we see, and the way we think. Antonio Gallie of the Jamaican food truck Kingston 19 states that “Our culture is everything to us, it’s our life, and cuisine is a part of that culture”. And beyond just the things we do, it’s who we are, “The color of the truck, the flag, me. The authenticity of whatever we do. And the authenticity of me because we live, eat, and sleep, Jamaica”.

And what art can better represent the deeper connections we have with one another on a personal, familial, and societal level than food? Everything about the process from cooking to eating signifies something about us, whether it’s the spices we use or the people we share the experience with.

The ways we connect with others may differ from place to place, and it reflects how we communicate with ourselves and those closest to us.

But when moving somewhere new, we might not always be in touch with those who matter to us the most; our relatives and friends who may be continents away. While you may share every exciting event with your family on the other side of the world, you still have a fascinating tale for the people who are with you where you are, and especially when the culinary arts are in question, the people are dying to hear all about it.

That’s why preserving authenticity and tradition is a key ingredient of any foreign foodie experience, but on a deeper level, it’s more than just something to show off. Cyprien Musabwa, the owner of Aster’s Ethiopian Restaurant, highlights three important reasons for the preservation of authenticity and customs; “First of all, for those who move here from other parts of the world. People want to remember how the food that they have been eating all their lives tastes”. The food of a country is its soul, the way the people and cultures express and present themselves, and the personality of the land, something we cannot lose in our lifetime.

The second reason, which many parents can agree with, is to pass on this element so that it survives in our hearts wherever we go, “To teach our kids, our descendants, to know our food” because the connections we have around the world also need to be preserved and passed onto future generations, which is a major concern for immigrants around the country. Lastly, “To show off to other people we meet, how our food is and how important it is to us”. Every dining table in every restaurant has a story to tell, and there is no shortage of mouths willing to listen.

Maintaining authenticity is the art of recreating the experience of foreign dining. Beyond the food, authenticity is presenting the culture in a way that reflects and encompasses the beauty of the cuisine. While authenticity is a major part of how restaurants operate, balancing foreign experiences with what people are used to eating is vital to expand an establishment’s customer base. But sometimes, introducing a cuisine to the local area can lead to the creation of something equally as precious.

Hybrid cuisine involves bringing elements from one type of food to a new area and is a representation of the connections we make with other communities.

Chad Oral, the owner of the Turkish restaurant Troy ATX reveals that “for some recipes we’re trying to implement what someone who is living in Austin likes, the native tastes. We are trying to find that way”. Some popular examples of fusion include Indian Tikka burgers or Korean burritos, which you can find almost anywhere. But maintaining the culture and not parting from the original traditions is also important. As Antonio tells us, “You never wanna move from the roots. You don’t wanna move from the authenticity of the recipes and the spices”. Authenticity is what people often look for in a restaurant, since Austin eateries don’t just seek American customers. Beyond the typical audience, the home diaspora is often a strong contributor to the success of many international restaurants.

Austin’s eateries are vessels of the stories and experiences that season our communities. Blending together the customs, cultures, and culinary traditions of international diasporas, restaurants are tasked with serving a little more than food. Austin has a rich saturation of global traditions, with a selection stretching from Mexico City to Manila. When the city seems to be a mixture of hundreds of unique flavors, it’s important to remember which one you hail from. As Antonio puts it, “You have to know where you’re coming from before you know where you’re going.”