SIGNS OF TIMES PAST When Finns talk about their history, they often describe how the sparsely populated wilderness strived for centuries as the wild frontier between the East and the West. The inhabitants, used to surviving in the woods and rowing on lakes, enjoyed the benefits of crossborder trade and cultural interaction, whenever they weren’t caught in the middle of a war. Memories of the borderland are many. The Olavinlinna fortress in Savonlinna stood on its island and towered over a swiftly running strait. It was a military power factor in the late Middle Ages. In the land where the harsh winter and marshy terrain stopped all other means of transportation, whoever controlled the waterways held the power. Nowadays, even the army of ancient Egypt fights within the walls, as Verdi’s “Aida” is often performed at the worldfamous Olavinlinna Opera Festival.
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When you arrive in the capital, Helsinki, from the sea, you meet a defence wall of stone. The name of the fortress offers a glimpse into Finland’s history: in Finnish, it is Suomenlinna (Castle of Finland); in Swedish, it is Sveaborg (Castle of Sweden).
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Finland changed from an agrarian society to an industrial country with astonishing speed, in only a couple of generations. Elderly Finns have experienced their source of bread changing from a stony field to a red-bricked factory. Industry sprang up wherever there was hydro power. The city of Tampere rose by the Tammerkoski rapids in between two large waterways. 6
Early industry made efficient use of the few riches to be found the northern country. The forest, fittingly named green gold, was used for building material and boiled to make paper. People became experts in handling metals found in the ground. Today’s production is entirely different, such as the world’s largest cruise ships and cleantech. 7
For long, Finland’s cities were mere clusters of wooden buildings. The reason was clear: there was an almost unlimited source of wood. Houses were also heated with wood. It can be viewed as Finnish inventiveness that the masters of their time decorated wooden houses by carving forms that looked like stone pillars and masonry. One of the best preserved wooden cities is Rauma, which has been designated a World Heritage Site. 8
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Geographically, Finland is almost an island. Merchants had to know the risks of seafaring and understand warehousing. The most important product stored in the red-ochre shore-line storehouses of Porvoo was salt. Without it, fish and meat could not be traded before the era of the freezer. Porvoo was the scene of a pivotal 10
event in Finnish history, when the Russian Tsar declared at the Porvoo parliament meeting in 1809 that Finland, separated from the kingdom of Sweden, would rise “as a nation among nations�.
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Finland’s most renowned castle watches the mouth of the Aura River in Turku, which was the second-most important city of Medieval Sweden. In the 1500s, future king of Sweden John III lived in the castle. His struggle for power with his half-brother, Eric XIV, could have been straight from a Shakespearean drama. Turku had to give up its status as capital when Russia conquered Finland. Turku people still half-seriously grudge the matter. Stubbornly they still call the Turku Cathedral, which stands by the Aura River, the centre of Finland’s spiritual life.
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The bedrock of Finland is the oldest and most stable in the world. The landscape was shaped by the ice ages, which carved and flattened the terrain like a giant plane. There are no high-peaked, sharp mountains in Finland. Hikers can feel with their fingers the lines that the several-kilometre thick mass of ice carved into the rock 10,000 years ago. Having been released from under the weight of the ice, the land in Finland is still rising, in some places even up to eight millimetres each year. On Finland’s coast, the area of an average farm rises from the sea every hour.
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The forest, waters, and solid rock are the basic elements of Finland. Finns often refer to them when they describe the inner landscape of their souls. When these three elements are all present, Finns, who often have poetic tendencies, experience deep emotions. A prime location for sentimental moods is by the famous Kiutaköngäs rapids in Kuusamo, where the river roars through a severalhundred-metre-long gorge it has cut through the rock. The rock types found at Kiutaköngäs are not typical to Finland’s bedrock. The most common rock is granite, which is a valued building material due to its strength and beauty when it is polished. 20
Finns have always admired the tough dwellers of the wilderness who endure the long, dark, and cold winter to wake up to the joy of the short northern summer. The farmer who cleared fields in stony and frosty land was a hero. The word “sisu” (=perseverance, guts) has acquired legendary status as a descriptive word for persistence. This young pine is also full of “sisu”, staying green in temperatures below -40°C, having driven its roots into cracks in the rock with hardly any soil.
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Finland’s landscape varies from the flat fields on the west coast to the rugged fells of the north. One of the most photographed lake areas is Koli in North Karelia. Another traditional nature tourism area is the fell region of Kilpisjärvi in Lapland.
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CITY LIFE Finland, just like the other Nordic countries, has no single city with over a million inhabitants. However, together with its neighbouring cities, the capital, Helsinki, forms a metropolis with a population of over one million, and its liveliness makes it a worthy component to many European cities. The central locations of the country’s government, culture, and business, can be found in the Helsinki region. The largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe is the Uspenski Cathedral in Helsinki. It is a memento of the era when the Russian Tsars ruled Finland. The architecture of the capital city centre also shows characteristics from that Imperial time. This was noted during the Cold War, and Helsinki acted as St. Petersburg in many Hollywood movies. 26
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Finns sincerely believe that in the bright but short northern summer, the yield of the land grows tastier than anywhere else. You can verify this at the country’s thousands of markets in June, when strawberries glow red and delicious. Skilled craftsmen sell their products at Christmas markets every year.
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After the busy summer, many of Finland’s cities settle into a small town spirit for the winter. The international heartbeat of Pori makes it one of the most lively summer cities. The legendary Pori Jazz Festival attracts thousands of visitors and world-class performers.
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When Finns want genuine scents and atmospheres, they get their daily groceries from a market hall. The market hall of Oulu is right in the city centre, by the seashore and the market square. There the shopper can find plenty of delicacies hand-made by local producers.
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The region in the central and eastern parts of Finland, marked by thousands of lakes and waterways, is rightly named the Finnish Lake District, or the Finnish Lakeland. Lappeenranta lies on the shore of Finland’s largest lake, Saimaa, and Kuopio (overleaf) is by the beautiful Kallavesi. The most impressive way to travel in the Lake District is to step aboard a boat that cruises on one of the world’s most lovely waterways. From Saimaa, there is access to the sea through the Saimaa Canal. The other end of the canal is in the old culture city, Vyborg, which belonged to Finland before the Second World War.
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The most famous Finns are the Nobel Prize winner, President Martti Ahtisaari, our top athletes, and many stars of the world’s concert halls. Other famous Finns are Santa Claus, Angry Birds, and the loved Moomins, who have their own adventure park in idyllic Naantali on the south-western shore. The guest harbour of Naantali is busy in the summer, perhaps because statistically, it is the sunniest town in Finland. Boaters in the Finnish Lake District can dock, for example, in the beautiful city centre of Jyväskylä. (overleaf)
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The northernmost university city of the European Union is Rovaniemi, familiar to tourists as the home town of Santa Claus, but other famous people can also be spotted in town. For example, it is home of the heavy metal monster Lordi, Eurovision song contest winner. The Arctic Circle passes through Rovaniemi; the sun does not set at all in the city from early June to late July. On the other hand, the winter is full of Christmas atmosphere created by snow, candles, and lights.
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ROOTS IN THE SOIL Finland is the most sparsely populated country in the European Union. Finns don’t usually regret this at all: on the contrary, they may be proud of it. Finns feel that sitting alone or with their best friend surrounded by nature in pure silence is a luxury and source of great pleasure. Certain “hermit-like” features are part of our national special characteristics. Finns don’t consider silence uncomfortable, even in groups. Two thirds of all Finns live in cities. However, many “City-Finns” can name the village or even the house where the family’s roots can be found. The word “home lake” carries deep emotions.
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For many Finns, the countryside often means bushes and trees, seen rushing past a car window. The only contact many city-people have with the country lifestyle is when a tractor slows down traffic on a highway passing farmland. Road maintenance in Finland is a constant struggle against frost. In the winter, the ground freezes and shifts road foundations over one metre deep. Road construction and repairs consume many times more money than further south.
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Finnish cities are not concrete jungles. Greenery and trees can be found in every population centre. A lot of people cycle to work, as in this photo from Oulu.
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Finns are proud of their everyman’s rights, which allow them to roam freely in forests and collect berries, mushrooms, and flowers without permission from land owners. It is self-evident that everyman’s rights must be enjoyed with respect toward nature and the inhabitants of the countryside. Littering is rare in Finland.
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School children in Finland have a luxuriously long summer holiday compared with many other countries. For many children, almost three months of freedom still means relaxed days amidst nature.
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The northernmost arable lands of the EU — even of the whole world — can be found in Finland. Wheat and sugar beet have been grown even up north in Lapland, although the crops have been small. It is possible to grow cattle and fodder crops even in the northernmost parts of the country. In the olden times, a successful annual crop was a matter of life and death. Farming skills are still respected. 59
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OUTDOOR LIFE Compared with other European countries, Finland is cold. But in reality, the land is not at all as cold as you might think looking at a map. Finland is as far north as Siberia, Greenland, and Alaska, but nature is much greener here, and average temperatures are many degrees warmer than in those areas of eternal frost. This is due to the Golf Stream, which warms the Northern Atlantic and carries mild air currents to Finland. The annual climate changes in Finland are severe, and the four seasons are very distinct. Extreme temperatures of -50째C have been measured in Lapland, and there are a few sweaty days of +35째C in midsummer. The flora and fauna have had to adapt to these extremities. In the summer, nature flourishes in all shades of green; in the winter, it hibernates under the snow.
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Finland’s climate is favourable for forests, which grow thick all over the country, except in the most northern parts of Lapland. Forests have been extremely significant for Finland’s economy, and even today, calling forests “green gold” is not an overstatement. In addition to their economical significance, Finns consider their forests important because they are an endless source of peace and beauty. Retreating to nature is an essential part of being Finnish.
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There is plenty of water in Finland, and much of it is unbelievably clean. Finland has more renewable water supplies per capita than any other country in Europe. In the Helsinki area, people drink lake water that needs very little chemical purification and stands its ground well against bottled “spring water� in blind tests. Boating is commonplace; Finns own hundreds of thousands of boats.
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The length of the skiing season varies a lot in Finland. In the north, people start skiing in November and don’t stop until midsummer. In some winters in Southern Finland, the only good skiing weather can be found in artificial skiing “tubes”. Children often learn to ski before they go to school. 74
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All over Finland, there can be over one metre of snow. It offers protection for many animals, and on the snow you can see signs of winter activity. Two paw prints side by side followed by two in line reveal that a rabbit has been looking for food.
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The charged particles of the solar wind strike the earth’s magnetic field, creating the mystical Aurora, the Northern Lights, which can be admired especially on bright, cold nights. According to legend, a firefox swinging its tail makes the fells sparkle.
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Light in Finland alternates from the Midnight Sun to sunless winter days. Northern people, used to the many weeks of polar night, say that “it never gets dark here.� The glowing snow and sky create a mysterious blue twilight, the atmosphere of which must be experienced to understand. The Midnight Sun of the summer is also charming in its own way.
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Finland’s northernmost big lake, called Inari, is very deep, which can be judged from the forms of the rocky islands. According to Sami legends, the island named “Ukko’s rock” was a place where spirits were worshipped. 85
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CULTURAL GOLD The changing natural forms and harmonious colours of the north have been an endless source of inspiration for Finnish artists. Many world-famous architects and designers have also drawn their creativity from nature. A typical common characteristic of many Finnish artists is that they praise the simple beauty of functionality. This thinking isn’t just a modern fad, but a tribute to the masters of traditional handicrafts, who knew their materials well. The internationally renowned Finnish icons, Alvar Aalto, Tapio Wirkkala, and Timo Sarpaneva would probably agree that a sooty coffee pot and a Guksi, a drinking cup carved from birch burl, used by Laplanders in the wilderness, represent Finnish design in their own, unique way.
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The handicraft traditions of the Sami, the aboriginal people of Lapland, are seen in the colourful folk costumes that dwellers of the north wear at festivities, and of course, in the tourism business. Reindeer herding is an enduring source of livelihood. Mountain reindeer were used as half-domesticated animals already in the Middle Ages. Lean reindeer meat is considered healthy.
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The Gold Rush was not restricted to the Wild West. One hundred years ago, gold discoveries caused a craze in Finland, and people rushed up north in search of quick riches. Lappish gold occurs as nuggets that are panned in running water. The largest single nugget found was 400 grams. Memories of the gold rush are preserved, for example, in the museum village of Tankavaara in Sodankyl채, where everyone can try their luck at gold panning.
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Art, in its various forms, is valued in Finland. Several traditional art museums exhibit historical art alongside the works of today’s fiery artist generation. The Turku Art Museum and the Modern Art Museum Kiasma in Helsinki are both current in their own way.
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The most famous cultural attractions of Helsinki are almost side by side in the city centre. The tower of the National Museum stands by the Finlandia Hall, one of Alvar Aalto’s late works. Close by is the Helsinki Music Centre, a new arrival of the 2000s.
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To Finland’s population of five and a half million, there are over two million saunas. Over half of them are private, family-owned little sanctuaries of relaxation. A sauna cabin by the water and the scent of a birch sauna whisk are little pieces of heaven on earth for many Finns.
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There are a few Michelin-star restaurants in Finland. Worthy competing taste experiences come from potatoes fresh from the soil, fresh dill, and vendace straight from the lake. The pleasure of the meal is doubled if you can eat outdoors, preferably on the patio of your own cottage.
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Finland and Finns are impossible to describe with only a few words. In Finland, you can come across a diverse setting of history and the present day, varying landscapes, and different lifestyles. However, if an impressionist was making a painting of Finland and was only allowed to use a few hues, they might be purity, peace, freshness, obstinacy, know-how, coolness, and tenacity. 102
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Finland Impressions © Kirjakaari, Jyväskylä
Photographs Keijo Penttinen Kimmo Rampanen © Vastavalo, cover Jarkko Viljanen p. 6-7, 28-29 Pekka Vainio p. 10-11, 22-23, 69, 78 Satu Huolman p. 14, 47, 57, 59 Mika Huolman p. 14-15, 92 Leena Järvenranta p. 30-31 Paavo Hamunen p. 42, 88-89 Toni Koskinen p. 46-47 Maarinka Laakso p. 56-57 Jussi Salomaa p. 70-71 Keijo Taskinen p. 78-79, 90 Juha Kauppinen p. 89 Jari Hakala © Vastavalo p. 8 Sampo Kiviniemi © Vastavalo p. 9 Anne Saarinen © Vastavalo p. 16-17 Kimmo Heinonen © Vastavalo p. 26-27 Juha Alatalo © Vastavalo p. 32-33, 48-49, 96-97 Jari Hindström © Vastavalo p. 34 Timo Viitanen © Vastavalo p. 34-35 Juha Määttä © Vastavalo p. 36-37 Tarja Hoikkala © Vastavalo p. 38-39 Raimo Voutilainen © Vastavalo p. 70 Pentti Sormunen © Vastavalo p. 76
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Mikko Karjalainen © Vastavalo p.77 Erkki Kettunen © Vastavalo p. 91 Jaakko Vähämäki © Vastavalo p. 93 Reijo Nenonen © Vastavalo p. 94 Olli Aalto © Vastavalo p. 95 Sakari Alasuutari © Vastavalo p. 100 Eero J. Laamanen © Vastavalo p. 101
Text Markku Heikkilä Graphic design and layout Kati Lähdemäki, Kirjakaari English translation Aki Myyrä, Molehill Communications Printed by Otavan kirjapaino, Keuruu 2016 Publisher Kirjakaari, www.kirjakaari.fi ISBN 978-952-5969-89-4