Vineyard October 2023

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Some things are so good that they simply demand to be shared, and that’s certainly true of the Weyborne Estate OCTOBER 2023 ™ Green Sussex fading into blue LAND & PROPERTY CONSULTANTS Expert advice for viticulture: • Site-finding • Sales & acquisitions • Planning applications • Environmental schemes & grants Call us on 01892 770339 Matthew Berryman 07710 765323 matthew@c-l-m.co.uk

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globe-asia vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk twitter @VineyardMagGB facebook VineyardMagGB NEWS
Ten-minute test is simple to use 10 London's largest consumer wine festival set to debut 12 Sussex sparkling in Japan 13 Aging sparkling pink wine underground REGULARS 18 Property for sale An underdog punching above its weight. 23 Unlocking the potential UK research into the impacts on soil health and grape yields from vineyard cover crops. 30 Matthew Jukes The annual bunfight. 40 The agronomy diary Keep Botrytis out of later-harvested bunches. 41 Legal Pitfalls of vineyard tenancy agreements. 43 The vine post Planting review: Harper Adams University. 44 A viticulturist's diary Under a blazing hot September sky, Rebschule Freytag presented their annual 'Rebsortentage'. 48 Express your terroir Harvest plans. 54 Representing you WineGB welcomes new CEO. 59 Machinery Leaf removal by machine. FEATURES 14 WineGB Trade Tasting Trade tasting at stunning new venue. 21 Innovations in soil nutrition The founders of LOHAS have developed an innovative technique that uses enzymes to create a high-quality, stable and natural soil nutrient. 22 An interview with... Nisha Hartelius sat down with Sam Linter to discuss her new role as Wine Director at Plumpton College. Front cover image: Weybourne Estate iti t i ts in G t B t in
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VI N E YAR D

CONTENTS

Features

A unique experience

The Praktik hotel chain operating in Barcelona has certainly embraced a creative atmosphere with their Vinoteca hotel situated in the centre of the city.

Green Sussex fading into blue… Some things are so good that they simply demand to be shared, and that’s certainly true of the Weyborne Estate, north of Midhurst in stunning West Sussex countryside.

English and Welsh wine in vogue

Big numbers and big growth attracts big names. The deserved respect for British grape growing and winemaking is drawing investment from some of the most venerable names.

Machinery advice and tips

NP Seymour take a look at their hand-harvest equipment essentials.

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There can be no doubt that working in the vineyards of England and Wales can be fraught with difficulties: weather, labour, tax and consumer expectations are but a few of these.

A recent visit to a wine hotel (page 24) proved these challenges are not unique to England and Wales and although the fine details may vary they are replicated in many wine growing regions around the world.

Throughout the magazine this month there is the idea of respecting the work that is done by growers and winemakers throughout England and Wales.

As demonstrated at the WineGB Trade Tasting (page 14) English and Welsh wines offer phenomenal quality and several articles this month have highlighted the growing international reputation of these wines.

Sometimes however both consumers and somewhat more disappointingly venues can be disrespectful to our industry. It was both saddening and maddening to find not a single English sparkling wine at a prestigious London entertainment venue despite a plethora of these being produced practically on the doorstep.

Vines and vineyards themselves also deserve respect. The life cycle of a vineyard is particularly awe inspiring at this time of year. In a few short months the vines have produced big bold and beautiful bunches of grapes because of, and in some cases despite, the weather.

Vineyards are a long term project and they are planted with love and passion with longevity in mind so it can sometimes be a surprise when vineyards come up for sale especially as the industry itself is relatively young. Whilst there can be many reasons for an established vineyard coming to the market it can offer new possibilities for those who may not have been able to enter the industry otherwise. Purchasing an already established small parcel of vines can bring its own difficulties but as I learned last month at Shotley Vineyard it can bring new passionate people to the industry. These people can bring much to the industry and will often reflect the truth of the words of American businessman Warren Buffett when he said: “Someone is sitting in the shade today because someone planted a tree a long time ago.”

So I hope that I time every glass of wine will be drunk and enjoyed accompanied by the respect it deserves!

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New partnership

A new partnership between the award-winning, English sparkling wine Candover Brook and the Hampshire and Isle of Wight Wildlife Trust (HIWWT) was cemented at a ‘Candover Brook & Canapés’ evening in the vineyard celebrating the area’s famous chalk streams and the little-known, endangered resident: the white-clawed crayfish.

This joint event was attended by local landowners, HIWWT trustees, donors and those passionate about Hampshire’s rivers and chalk streams. Mark and Julian Sainsbury, founders of Candover Brook, Debbie Tann, Chief Executive and Dr Ben Rushbrook from HIWWT were also in attendance.

With only around 200 chalk streams left in the world and most situated in southern England, their preservation and the protection of the crayfish is a key concern. Both stream and crayfish are recognized in the design of Candover Brook’s wine label.

The white-clawed crayfish is the UK’s only native species of crayfish, but due to a dramatic decline, it is now an internationally endangered species. It is believed that up to 95% of the UK population has been lost. The Trust has implemented a white-clawed

crayfish project which involves creating innovative arcs, in river headwaters, lakes and ponds, which are able to support healthy, selfsustaining populations of crayfish.

Mark Sainsbury said: “For us, this is an exciting and important partnership as we care deeply about our place in this beautiful landscape. Our wine is named after the chalk stream running through the valley so the wonderful work HIWWT are doing to preserve this precious habitat and protect our emblem, the white-clawed crayfish, is

incredibly important to us. We’re delighted to be playing our part in supporting them in their conservation efforts”. Candover Brook has pledged 50p for every bottle sold via the website or within a 15-mile radius of the vineyard to support the project set up by HIWWT.

The vineyard was planted by the late Lord John Sainsbury and his sons, Mark and Julian, on a gentle south-facing slope in the Candover Valley in 2012 and the first wines were released only last year.

Ten-minute test is simple to use

Global Access Diagnostics (GADx), a social enterprise and leading developer of lateral flow and rapid diagnostic technologies, today announced it has expanded the applications of its low-cost, rapid diagnostic test, BotrytisAlert. Harnessing GADx’s expertise in lateral flow technology, the test has shown to detect and measure the fungal crop pathogen Botrytis across several critical points in wine production; in the vineyard, in grape must and in finished wine. Early intervention in the disease cycle facilitates improved efficacy of sustainable control measures and to reduce unnecessary use of fungicides.

Launched in 2020, BotrytisAlert is a rapid antigen test originally developed for the soft fruit industry to monitor Botrytis spores, or bunch rot, in air samples to drive early warning of disease potential on exposed crops. In soft fruit, the test has been used to forecast infection risk, guide the timed application of control treatments ahead of symptom development, inform quality and drive crop post-harvest management decisions. BotrytisAlert has since been evaluated by both the North and Southern hemisphere wine industries and demonstrated to be simpleto-use, fast, and accurate for quantifying the Botrytis fungus in grape must and finished wine, in addition to directly on the vine. Effective for use prior

to transport and also at the wine pressing centre, the test is read at 10 minutes either visually or using a simple, low cost, small portable reader which can fit in the palm of the hand.

Globally, in the wine sector it is estimated, on average, 25% of turnover is lost due to Botrytis rot, at a cost to the industry of €15 billion per year. Botrytis is considered one of the most serious diseases of grapevine affecting not only yield, but grape quality and taste. In the UK’s horticulture sector, the fungus infection is the second greatest cause of crop loss by reducing harvest yields and marketability, estimated to cost £54 million. Primarily affecting strawberries (£15-30 million losses) but also cut flowers (£24 million), tomatoes, onions, hardy nursery stock and ornamentals.

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Julian and Mark Sainsbury
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD NEWS

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London's largest consumer wine festival set to debut

The largest consumer wine festival of its kind in London, will officially take place in December, designed to boost vineyards Christmas, 2024 marketing and sales. Get ready to raise your glasses and savour the finest wines from around the globe at the inaugural London Wine Festival, taking place from 7-10 December 2023. Set against the vibrant backdrop near Shoreditch and Liverpool Street, the festival promises an unmatched celebration of wine culture and camaraderie.

The London Wine Festival is set to become the largest of its kind in the UK, welcoming an impressive lineup of 200 vineyards from various corners of the world. At the forefront of the festival's focus is the burgeoning prominence and quality of British wines, showcasing vineyards from Wales, Kent, Oxford, Sussex, Gloucester, and Essex's Crouch Valley. International participants include esteemed names from Georgia, Armenia, France, Spain, Italy, Austria, Germany, Belgium, South Africa and California.

The festival aims to create a unique experience, and platform, to bring individuals, business ideas and opportunities together. Its focus is on building bridges and connections and to act as both a catalyst, enabler and conduit for the discerning 26-50 year old audience, with a good disposable income, residing in London and the suburbs.

Zones at the festival will include Africa and Australia, UK, Europe, North and South America, alcohol free, innovation, Masterclass, Groups, VIP area, chill, cocktail, media, influencer, trade, retail, food experience, game and music areas.

"We're thrilled to present the London Wine Festival as an exceptional platform for wine enthusiasts to indulge in the finest offerings from independent wineries. Our festival aims to be a celebration of wine that's both inclusive and vibrant, capturing the essence of what makes wine culture so enjoyable. There’s a disconnect presently between the Gen-Y2 / Millennials and GenX demographics and wineries/ vineyards, and which wineries and vineyards are seeking support with, and that’s why we’re doing what we’re doing.” said Jonathan Geitner, the driving force behind the event.

With an anticipated attendance of 15,000, the festival will cater predominantly to consumer audiences, complemented by a trade presence over the course of three to four days. The meticulously curated festival will feature a world map-inspired layout, where each participating vineyard will be marked with signage to mimic the global vineyard landscape. Vineyards and partners have the choice of two key options for showcasing their wines. The lowest cost option for participation

is to be featured exclusively on the London Wine Festival Exclusive Bars to generate sales from attendees. Vineyards can sell from 1 to 10 bottles on a shared exclusive bar with other selections, complete with promotional material, QR code information, data capture, and marketing collateral from just £1,500.

Alternatively starting at £3,000 vineyards and partners can take an entire stand showcase area that is dedicated solely to a participant's offerings with up to 10 wines on sale along with experiences, database capture and extra marketing.

Beyond the delightful array of wines, the festival promises a whirlwind of entertainment, including live music, DJs, engaging talks, and exciting sales opportunities. Visitors can explore and learn about wine through workshops and tastings hosted by passionate connoisseurs. One industry expert, shared his excitement, stating, "This is what the UK and London have been crying out for. Something fun, lively, and embracing wine with no egotism!" And many vineyards backed up his statement.

As the holiday season approaches, the London Wine Festival offers an ideal opportunity to immerse oneself in the world of fine wines, delicious street food, and enriching experiences. Stay tuned for more updates and ticket information by following the festival's social media channels.

10 All enquiries can contact: hi@londonwinefestival.org or visit www.londonwinefestival.org/info i
UPCOMING EVENT
NEWS

From strength to strength

Raimes have built a stunning new wine barn which elevates their wine tasting experience. Fitting neatly into the surroundings, it has a cool and smart interior. You might be mistaken for

thinking you are visiting a wine estate in South Africa or New Zealand, as you can drop in and soak up the vineyard and enjoy their grower produced English sparkling wines. Previously their courtyard was

located in their 15th Century farmyard over-looked by horses, it has now grown into its new location with fabulous views, more space, style and comfort but all the same charm, and surrounded by the vines that produce the wine.

Augusta Raimes is delighted: “It has been a big and exciting step for us, and we are delighted with the new Tasting Barn in its new home among the vines. The investment in the new barn has started a new chapter for our vineyard. One that firmly embeds our commitment and vision for the future development of the English Wine Industry.”

The Tasting Barn and cellar door shop opposite Hinton Ampner House and village is open to drop in on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 11am. Drop in for a glass of their wine, a tasting flight or grazing board with regional cheeses. With seating inside and out it’s a visit for any weather and with plenty of space large groups can be accommodated.

First ever Blanc de Blancs

Digby Fine English has launched its first ever Blanc de Blancs, from 2013, at Petersham Nurseries Covent Garden. Attended by press, trade contacts and friends of the brand, the occasion also marked 10 years since the first Digby wines were released. “This Blanc de Blancs is the perfect 10th birthday present for Digby,” said CEO and Head Blender Trevor Clough. “It’s from an incredible year and we used only the top 5% of grapes from the harvest. English wine can age with aplomb and my job as a blender is to encourage the fruit to do that in its own way. The trademark raciness of our English terroir gains sophistication and complexity and charm over time – Jason and I founded Digby Fine English on that conviction and this Blanc de Blancs epitomises it. Happy birthday to Digby!”

Susie Barrie MW has said of the wine: “A superb English Blanc de Blancs that oozes style and elegance. Aromas of yeast and buttered toast herald a fresh but developed palate that offers a tantalising combination of white truffle, roasted hazelnuts, lemon zest acidity, and just a hint of oyster shell. Generous and sumptuous yet wonderfully refined, it’s drinking beautifully now but will mature and develop for many years to come. Just a really delicious glass of fizz!”

The Sussex-based blending house has never released a Blanc de Blancs before, and this 2013 edition brings its concise collection of sparkling wines to a total of five. The new wine is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes, hand-harvested a decade ago from two vineyards in Hampshire and Dorset. The blend consists of just four parcels of base wines, and only 3,000 bottles were made.

The release follows a runaway success for Digby’s flagship sparkling – the 2013 Vintage Reserve Brut – at the 2023 WineGBAwards,

where it was named ‘Supreme Champion’ of the overall competition. This vote of confidence in the ageing potential of English wines was a real honour for a brand centred on long ageing and technical excellence – both of which are exhibited profusely in the new 2013 Blanc de Blancs.

Retailing at £65, it becomes the pinnacle of Digby’s core collection in both style and value. It is available to buy at Harvey Nichols,through Swing Wines for on-trade customers, and via Digby’s website and Arundel Tasting Room.

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OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD NEWS

Sussex Sparkling in Japan

Following the recent announcement that Rathfinny has partnered with ASC Fine Wines to build the category of English Sparkling wines in China, Rathfinny is pleased to announce another exciting new partnership with Vin Passion to build Sussex Sparkling in Japan and introduce Japanese consumers to the outstanding quality that these wines represent.

China and Japan are gradually recovering from the impacts of the global pandemic and with consumer interest in wine stronger than ever, Rathfinny’s visit offers consumers an introduction to this exciting new category of exceptional quality wines.

Husband and wife, Mark and Sarah Driver, established the Rathfinny Wine Estate in 2010 on a working arable farm with the express intention of producing some of the world’s finest quality sparkling wines. Their ambition has always been “In twenty years’ time you will walk into a bar or restaurant in New York or Beijing and you’ll be asked, “Would you like a glass of Champagne or a delicious glass of Sussex? I can recommend Rathfinny.”’ Their ambition is becoming a reality with the upcoming trip and the opportunity APAC is presenting for Rathfinny to introduce new consumers to Sussex Sparkling wine.

Rathfinny occupies a top-five position within the domestic UK wine market, both in terms of sales and reputation and will be investing with Vin Passion to achieve the same result in Japan. Vin Passion, one of Japan’s leading on-trade specialist importers, with its strength in supplying Champagne and Burgundy to the fine dining sector, is the perfect partner for Rathfinny in their pursuit to build brand visibility and reputation through Japan’s top bars and restaurants.

Sarah Driver, Rathfinny Co-Owner stated: “We are absolutely delighted to be working with Vin Passion as our exclusive importer and distribution agent for our Sussex Sparkling wines in Japan."

Mark Driver, Rathfinny Co-Owner went on to say that "Vin Passion has one of the finest portfolios of wines and grower Champagnes in Japan and this will allow Rathfinny wines to be served in the top restaurants, bars and hotels across Japan."

Daisuke Kawakami, CEO of Vin Passion is confident that Rathfinny is the right choice for the market. “Japan has the third largest Champagne market in the world after France and the UK,” he commented. “Considering

our total population, the Japanese people could be defined as ‘Sparkling lovers’. In addition, it is not only a huge market, but also a sophisticated, professional market.”

He went on to say, “while most of the Japanese market for Champagne is dominated by the major houses with widely recognised brand names, there is a niche market here that understands the lesser known but excellent RM Champagnes. Vin Passion has remained committed to offering authentic RM Champagne to such customers. One aspect in particular is that Japanese cuisine is a great match for sparkling wine. A great English sparkling wine like Rathfinny will be an exhilarating experience for gourmet consumers who appreciate real taste. We expect it will take time to educate people, but we are confident that our customers will realise its great value.”

Mark and Sarah Driver will travel to Japan and China During September to present Rathfinny Sussex Sparkling wines for the first time to Japanese and Chinese wine lovers. The wines will be shown at a number of hotly anticipated events in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Hong Kong including educational seminars on the English Sparkling Wine category, tastings, team trainings, visits to key accounts and winemaker dinners at top flagship accounts such as Ritz Hotel Osaka, Il Ghiottone Koyoto and a launch event at the stylishly British Harrods Shanghai The Residence.

This step towards building English Sparkling wine awareness will be the same across China. Sarah Driver said “We are both so excited about our upcoming visit which is a true testament to the global recognition that English Sparkling

Wine is beginning to gain. We are thrilled to be building the momentum for Sussex Sparkling across the region as a whole”.

She went onto say: “I first visited Beijing in 1979 with my father on a semi-official visit with the HK Urban Council and who would have thought all these years later we’d be selling our Sussex sparkling into China, I’m thrilled. Along with an incredible itinerary set up by ASC Fine Wines in Shanghai and Guangzhou, I am particularly excited about going back to Hong Kong, where I grew up, on our first visit with Fine Vintage to build on the success that has been growing there since our launch, actively supporting key F&B partners such as Caprice.”

Makoto Nagae, Chief Executive Officer of ASC Fine Wines, expressed his utmost enthusiasm for the value-based partnership in joining forces with Rathfinny to introduce their remarkable English sparkling wine to the Chinese market. He commented: “As a B Corp certified winery, Rathfinny exemplifies an unwavering commitment to crafting extraordinary wines and experiences that showcase the unique essence of their Sussex family estate. They employ methods that prioritize the well-being of the land, people, community, and the wider environment, aligning perfectly with ASC's corporate philosophy centred around the value of 'Growing for Good' and 'giving back to society', balancing purpose with profit, taking account of environment and social impact in our corporate governance. By embracing these shared values, we look forward to making a positive impact in our respective communities while delivering exceptional wine to our stakeholders in China."

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OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD NEWS

Aging sparkling pink wine underground

Bridging the realms of history, geology, and viniculture, award-winning Amber Valley Vineyards is thrilled to announce a unique collaboration with the amazing Derbyshire award-winning tourism attraction, Heights of Abraham, located in Matlock Bath. This visionary initiative will place 200 bottles of Amber Valley's sparkling pink wine from the outstanding 2022 vintage deep within the historic Rutland Cavern, a place with a legacy of its own.

The region's fascinating geology and connection with the mineral Galena, an ore of lead and silver, mined since Roman times, provides an evocative backdrop to this venture. The Great Rutland Cavern, earlier known as the Nestus mine, has a history rich in mining activities tracing back to at least the medieval era. This collaboration symbolically unites Derbyshire's mineral-rich past with its promising vinicultural present.

Long lees ageing, a technique where sparkling wine is allowed to mature on its 'lees' (residual yeast particles) for an extended period, will be employed. Historically favoured by prestigious champagne estates, this method offers wines additional complexity and depth of flavour. Underground locations, like Rutland Cavern, provide the consistently cool temperatures, stable humidity levels, and protection from light, all essential for producing exceptional sparkling wines.

Barry Lewis, owner of Amber Valley Vineyard, remarked on this historic partnership: "Our ambition to produce a limited-release prestige sparkling wine found its perfect setting within the storied depths of Rutland Cavern. Derbyshire's mining history, combined with our innovative spirit, will craft a wine echoing both tradition and modernity.

"We are aiming to long-lees age the wine in Rutland Cavern for at least two and a half years and post disgorging the wine will be allowed some quiet bottle time before being released but it should be worth the wait. And when we do, we should hopefully have something quite extraordinary.

"We’ve long wanted to work in a partnership of this nature in our home county of Derbyshire, we have a unique county with a unique history and story to tell and this collaboration with the Heights of Abraham really is a perfect example of that. We’re weaving a new story, utilising that unique history and bringing wine, nature and history together to tell it.”

Expressing his enthusiasm, Rupert Pugh, Development Director and member of the Pugh family, custodians of the Heights of Abraham, stated: "This partnership with Amber Valley Vineyards is a celebration of Derbyshire's rich heritage. The confluence of our historical attraction with the nuanced craft of winemaking promises an unparalleled experience. Over the centuries the Rutland Cavern has been used for many things, from

candlelit concerts to spectacular weddings, including one where the bride was lowered down the cavern shaft on a rope to meet her new husband! Soldiers used to store their artillery and dynamite in the caverns, and now a new historic partnership has begun with Amber Valley Vineyard. We look forward to serving this unique sparkling wine in our Vista restaurant in the future.”

This sparkling wine, a masterful blend of around 70% estate grown Seyval Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, hails from Amber Valley's Doehole vineyard, situated near Wessington and Ashover, and is being crafted by winemaker Jack Abbott of Three Choirs Vineyards, Gloucestershire, the longtime winemaking partner of Amber Valley Vineyards, who added: “This Amber Valley Rose from the exciting 2022 vintage is a typical sparkling blend for the region, with 85% Seyval Blanc for the body and Pinot Noir and Meunier adding interest with their classic red fruit and floral characteristics. The gentle pressing of the grapes and aging on fine lees prior to secondary fermentation have created a wine which is textured with bright acidity, ideal for sparkling wine production. Aging in these caves with their stable temperature and dim lighting should provide the ideal environment to allow this wine to age gracefully on lees for years to come; maturing to what we believe will be an exciting and complex wine.”

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OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD

Trade tasting at stunning venue

The WineGB trade tasting on 5 September 2023 was held at a stunning new venue the Battersea Arts Centre. The venue was easily accessible by public transport and although it was unseasonably warm on the day the venue was packed as the wine trade all came together under one roof to celebrate the best of English and Welsh wines.

It was impossible to get from one end of the room to the other without witnessing numerous reunions as friends and business associates chatted and shared experiences amongst the rows of exhibitors.

Recent winners at the WineGB awards were exhibiting including Sandridge Barton, Gusbourne and Digby Fine English who were the winners of the WineGB Supreme Champion 2023 award for their 2013 Vintage Reserve Brut.

It was fantastic to see so many vineyards in attendance. The diversity on offer was a reflection of how vibrant the wine industry is in England and Wales. Buyers and members of the press were able to experience wines from Chapel Down, The Grange and the long established Biddenden Vineyards alongside

wines in alternative formats such as those produced by The Uncommon and wines from smaller newer vineyards.

Welsh exhibitors Velfrey, Montgommery Vineyard and The Dell Vineyard were able to offer attendees wines that were varied and exciting.

Velfrey Naturiol 2021 made from late harvested Seyval Blanc displayed qualities of apple pie on the nose whilst the still wines of The Dell Vineyard the rosé Y Lleidr 2022 and white Yr Afanc 2022 encapsulated the taste of summer. The story behind the name Y Lleidr which translates as The Thief is a reference to the fact that the blackbirds and the badgers had decimated the 2021 crop. Montgommery Vineyard displayed excellent quality wines and showcased the beautiful qualities of the Seyval Blanc and Solaris grape varieties.

Several positive comments about the day centred on the number of new producers who were attending the event for the first time.

Radlow Hundred were attending their first WineGB press and trade tasting but this was also the very first time they had exhibited at any trade tasting.

Radlow Hundred offer still wines comprising

of a single varietal Solaris white, a Rondo and Solaris blended rosé and a red produced solely from Rondo. This selection will make Radlow Hundred attractive to the on trade. The grapes are grown on a family farm that has a strong connection to fruit growing going back generations. The label has managed to link the past to the present in a relaxed manner that has an appeal that is difficult to explain but somehow reaches out in a manner reminiscent of artwork from vintage railway posters. The label literally brings a sense of joy and warmth before the bottle is even opened, making it a perfect gift. The contents were as good as the labels and it was a privilege to witness a group of visitors trying the red wine from this brand and seeing the genuine look of pleasant surprise as they discussed the softness that the wine displayed.

The WineGB Press and Trade Tasting 2023 highlighted the growth, the potential and the excitement surrounding English and Welsh wine. The event brought together large and small producers, new and established vineyards all under one roof and allowed each to shine in their own special unique way.

WINEGB TRADE TASTING
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD 14
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD 15

New WineGB CEO to open seminar programme

Vineyard Magazine are pleased to announce that a broad range of topics will be covered at this year’s show, which is once again sponsored by Ferovimum. Hosted by Vineyard & Winery Show partners WineGB, the seminars will take place within a bespoke marquee to ensure each talk can be listened to without interference. New CEO of WineGB Nicola Bates will welcome participants at 9am which will be followed by a keynote speaker.

Nicola commented: "I am looking forward to delivering the opening address for the seminar programme at The Vineyard & Winery Show. WineGB is delighted to be organising the programme again this year. It gives us the opportunity to address topical issues and create useful and informative content

for the GB wine industry. As the trade body representing the English and Welsh wine sector, we are well-placed to assess the needs of our vineyards and wineries. With the help of our Work Group chairs, we've created a programme that deals with current and future trends to help you secure and develop your business now and in the years ahead."

The seminar programme has been built around the theme of ‘securing your business now and in the future’. The morning sessions will focus on business development, with panel discussions on wine tourism and export. The wine tourism session will outline the trends and growth opportunities born out of Visit Britain’s latest research and will explain how to use oenotourism as a tool to expand your business. This will be followed by a session on

export, specifically looking at funding which allows producers to hold stock in target export markets in Europe and the United States. The morning session will conclude with a Q&A session featuring experts in insurance, land management, planning, law, distribution, and brand development, who will answer all your pressing questions.

The afternoon sessions will focus on key topics in viticulture and winemaking, with panellists discussing the long-term impact of copper cultivation on soil, issues associated with herbicide drift, calcium instability in wine, and how to measure and reduce wastewater in the production process.

Full details of speakers and timings will be announced in the November edition of Vineyard Magazine.

2023
TO REGISTER TO ATTEND ON 22 NOVEMBER 2023 Visit www.vineyardshow.com 202 202 In association with Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD 16 22 NOVEMBER 2023

Book your slot at the PIWI wine tasting

Taking place at 3pm at this year’s Vineyard & Winery Show will be a tasting of six Piwi wines, all from vines that are suitable for UK conditions.

Sponsored and hosted by Rebschule Freytag who are experts in PIWI vines, the hour long session will take guests through an array of exciting new varieties that in the words of Sam Doncaster “will provide ground-breaking taste opportunities for the UK winemaker”. Sam, who works with Rebschule Freytag and is a regular contributor in Vineyard Magazine will be presenting wines alongside owner Volker Freytag.

The PIWI tasting will offer winemakers a glimpse of what new varieties are available to the UK, with some fantastic options on offer. Be sure to book early as only 80 seats are available. Tickets are offered at just £10 each, with the proceeds donated to charity.

Taking

Sponsored and hosted by Rebschule Freytag from Germany who are experts in Piwi vines, the hour long session will take guests through an array of exciting new varieties that “will provide groundbreaking taste opportunities for the UK winemaker”.

Tickets are offered at £10 each, with the proceeds donated to charity.

Book

2023
TO BOOK YOUR TICKET Visit www.vineyardshow.com The & Winery an unmissable anyone in the UK The Vineyard & owners, winemakers opportuni to keep meet with suppliers industry as well as having players in the UK wine FREE TO ALL ATTENDEES You will be able to meet with technology and view demonstrations Come and taste some of the UK’s producers are making their wines FREE SEMINARS & WORKSHOPS Giving you the chance to learn from how they built their businesses. Expert winemaking and marketing topics. In association with 2023 SEMINARS | WINE TASTING MEET INDUSTRY EXPERTS
November 2023 Kent Event Centre, Detling, Maidstone, Kent ME14 3JF
22nd
for UK
at this year’s show.
place at 3pm in the Astor Pavillion, Sam Doncaster will be conducting a tasting of six Piwi wines suitable
conditions
early to avoid disappointment! RESERVE YOUR TICKET WINEPIWITASTING Head to vineyardshow.com to reserve your tickets Sponsored by Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD 17 22 NOVEMBER 2023

An underdog punching above its weight

CALNE | WILTSHIRE 9,000 VINES GUIDE PRICE: £1,650,000

Maud Heath Vineyard in Wiltshire is an outlier in a sector mainly populated by vineyards in the south east. Their Tytherton Red, made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Rondo, was described by Matthew Jukes in Vineyard magazine (September 2018), as “without doubt the most successful red blend I have ever tasted from within our shores”.

It is perhaps then not surprising that Maud Heath have a strong regional following or that their wine sells through 23 branches of Waitrose. They also supply many independents including Allington Farm Shop and Hawkins Brothers.

Maud Heath Vineyard was planted at Wick Bridge Farm, Calne, Wiltshire in 2006 by the Bateman family. Extending to 34 acres Wick Bridge Farm comprises a Grade II listed Cotswold Stone five bed farmhouse, a range of agricultural buildings, six acre vineyard, 16 acres of pasture and eight acres of arable land.

The vineyard has 9,000 vines which produce award-winning wine. Most recent and notable awards include the Chardonnay 2018 (Silver, 90 points), Tytherton Red 2018 (Bronze, 89 points), Bacchus 2018 (Bronze, 88 points) at Decanter 2020 and Tytherton Red 2018 (Bronze, 89 points), Chardonnay 2018 (Bronze 89 points), Pinot Noir Sparkling Rose 2015 (Bronze, 88 points) at the International Wine Challenge 2020. There are a total of 7,550 bottles of wine in store.

Maud Heath Vineyard’s average production between 2017 - 2022 is 2.74 tonnes per acre. Compared to benchmark yields, the yields outperform the south west average across all years except 2017 when only 65% of the vineyard was mature (Table 2).

The largest variable in production cost per tonne is the scale of the yield. From an investor’s perspective, the yields are encouraging, as it will increase the contribution margin per bottle.

The must analysis in Table 3 shows a vineyard producing grapes with similar ripeness levels to many leading vineyards in the south east.

Maud Heath is that rare thing that we Brits love; an underdog punching above its weight. During this period of rising demand for still wine, it would make an exciting prospect for a family that want to build on the good work that the Batemans have started.

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Grape No of vines Planting years Bacchus 2,350 2006, 2008, 2014 Early Pinot Noir 2,000 2006, 2008 Pinot Noir 1,500 2011 Pinot Meunier 550 2014 Chardonnay 1,550 2006, 2008, 2014 Rondo 1,050 2006, 2008, 2014
TABLE 1: VINES AND PLANTING
Yield (t / ac) Years 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 Maud Heath 2.11 2.96 3.38 3.11 2.55 2.33 South West 2.36 2.23 2.17 1.43 2.33 2.16
TABLE 2: YIELDS (T/AC) AT MAUD HEATH AND IN SOUTH WEST BETWEEN 2017 - 2022
Varieties Maud Heath Avg Must 2018 - 2020 National Avg Must 2018 - 2020 PN Precoce Oe 64.00 77.41 TA 9.00 8.33 Rondo Oe 84.00 72.20 TA 10.50 9.92 Bacchus Oe 69.50 73.26 TA 8.50 9.04 Chardonnay Oe 81.50 72.98 TA 9.70 12.21 Pinot Noir Oe 72.50 74.26 TA 8.40 11.67 Pinot Meunier Oe 70.50 71.78 TA 8.70 11.78 PROPERTY FOR SALE
TABLE 3 - AVERAGE MUST ANALYSIS IN MAUD HEATH AND NATIONALLY 2018 - 2020

Maud Heath Vineyard, Near Calne, North Wiltshire

5 bedrooms | Bathroom | 2 reception rooms | Stabling | Garages | Outbuildings | In all approximately 34 acres Vineyard approximately 6 acres | Data from 2017 to 2022 is available by request | EPC F | Freehold | Council Tax band F A charming farmhouse with a range of outbuildings, farmland and an award-winning vineyard. Average production for four seasons (2019-2022) is 17,064 kgs.

Guide price £1,650,000

Knight Frank Cirencester

rupert.sturgis@knightfrank.com

01285 895664

knightfrank.co.uk

Winners of the Best Customer Focus Award in 2023

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Innovations in soil nutrition

As climate change delivers an increasing number of extreme weather events, it is more important than ever to consider how the resilience of a vineyard can be improved. Made from upcycled chicken manure, the new fertilisers from LOHAS help to add organic matter to the soil and generally improve soil health by increasing the levels of nutrition, guarding against erosion and upping capacity for the retention of moisture. These improvements can give the edge when it comes to vines being able to survive intense periods of drought or flood.

Research and development

“We have been running two live InnovateUK projects over the summer,” said co-director Lian. “These feasibility studies are testing our enzyme-based technology, creating sustainable fertiliser from the bio-based materials, i.e. poultry manure. The aim was to reduce the environmental impact of poultry manure by turning it into an eco-fertiliser.

"We have also done some glasshouse pot trials with Harper Adams University in Shropshire. Working with broccoli and tomato plants, this study tested our soil nutrient in different ratios with a traditional chemical fertiliser against a control to assess the impact on plant vigour.” It’s too soon for the findings of the studies to have been analysed and published, but the soil nutrients LOHAS has developed are already proving popular with growers of a diverse array of produce, including wine grapes.

“At the moment, we have two types of nutrient pellets available,” said Lian. “One is a general product which is perfect for supporting foliar growth in the spring. The other is a high P & K [phosphorus and potassium] product that gives vines the boost they need when ripening is imminent in the autumn, but limits the overgrowth of the leaves at this stage.”

Next steps

LOHAS is moving forward within DEFRA’s Farming Innovation Programme, which supports small-scale research and development projects like theirs. They are looking to engage with vineyards to collaborate and carry out field trials with their novel soil nutrient to confirm its benefits for vineyard soil health and measure that impact. By applying enzyme technology to chicken manure, LOHAS are able to stabilise the carbon, ammonium and nitrogen within it. As a consequence of this fermentation process, the waste is upcycled into a safe and stable soil nutrient. It is high in organic matter and stabilised carbon, with a balanced NPK nutrient profile and other micro nutrients. The fully-fermented ECO-Fertiliser also contains valuable amino acids and humus. Amino acids play a pivotal role in promoting plant growth by aiding nutrient absorption and utilisation. Humus improves soil structure, water retention and nutrient availability. The application of the bio-technology innovation in manufacturing the fully-fermented soil nutrient for viticultural sector is operating at scales. This brings abundant and cost-effective soil nutrition. The innovative soil nutrient fosters soil organic matter, carbon levels, microbial activities, and overall soil health and resilience. It’s worth noting that the full fermentation of this soil nutrient also means that it is more pleasant to work with and stops it from acting as a magnet to flies, which are a big turn-off when you have a high-end wine tourism offer to consider.

LOHAS soil nutrient can be applied in spring during vineyard establishment or after bud burst. To optimise the post-harvest root activity, LOHAS high P&K nutrient can be applied in Oct or Nov, allowing vines to replenish lost nutrients and build nutrient reserves for future needs. This offer aligns with sustainable management practices and holds promise for a more eco-conscious viticulture industry.

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DESKTOP www.lohasrecycling.co.uk ENVELOPE lian@lohasrecycling.com phone-alt 07878 346050 LINKEDIN-IN lohas-recycling
Lian Lin and Carlos Kao are an enterprising couple with a background in recycling. The founders of LOHAS, they have developed an innovative technique that uses enzymes to create a high-quality, stable and natural soil nutrient, which is likely to be of great interest to vineyard managers.
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
LOHAS are keen to involve UK vineyards in their InnovateUK projects. The team is looking for collaborative partners to participate in field trials of their soil nutrients during winter 2023. Interested parties are warmly invited to get in touch.

Entrepreneurial at heart

Plumpton College is the UK’s foremost centre in wine education, training, and research and offers a range of study options from day courses on topics such as wine faults and sparkling wine, week intensive courses and degrees in Viticulture & Oenology and Wine Business.

What inspired you to pursue wine?

My brother and I grew up as wild farm kids. I never wanted to go to college but ended up following a friend into hairdressing, qualifying in 18 months instead of the usual three years. After that I returned to teach the City & Guild NVQ in hairdressing for about five years. My dad was a rubber trader at this time and one day I picked up a phone call that came through to our house. The phone call was from Clarks Shoes in China to discuss rubber and by the time the call had finished I had sold them a bulk of rubber to make their iconic crepe-soled shoes. Looking back I think I’ve always been entrepreneurial at heart!

When I was pregnant with my second child I found childcare was becoming difficult to balance so my parents offered me work in their vineyard. This was around 1995 and at this point the estate (which was

then called Bookers Vineyard) was producing around 2,000 bottles a year. We were using a contract wine maker and my dad went to Plumpton to do a wine making course. But my dad and uncle were still struggling on the wine making side so a few years later I enrolled at Plumpton and did some short courses around wine making before completing my WSET Diploma in 2000.

What interested you in the Plumpton role?

I spent 28 years at Bolney Wine Estate and was winemaker for 17 of them. After selling Bolney to Freixenet I had agreed to stay on for 18 months to help with a smooth transition process, but found they got to grips with the business quickly. Following the sale I took a few months off for a mental re-set, but having always been drawn to challenges and being in control I quickly started looking for something new. It was a recruitment advert on Linkedin that led me to this role!

I feel lucky I got to choose what I want to do in life, and so I would like to use my skills and experience to give back to the wine community. Plumpton is the perfect fit as I believe education is pivotal to the wine industry.

What do you think will be your biggest personal challenge and what would you like to achieve at Plumpton?

The Plumpton wine department is an excellent team and I’m looking forward to helping them grow further into their roles. I come from a business background though where decisions are made at a fast pace. The biggest personal challenge for me will be moving to an education environment which moves at a slower pace than I am used to.

My main aim is to align the Plumpton wine courses so we are providing education that is fit for the future of English Wine.

What excites you about English Wine and its future?

There have been big changes in the English wine industry in the last 10 years and I am excited to be a part of that. We have been on a huge growth curve, but we are now at the precipice. We need to make sure we are heading in the right direction and prove to the rest of the world that we can make great wines.

Anything else you would like to share?

Plumpton College has a wide range of wine courses. Please get in touch to find out what we offer and if that suits you or your employees. If you cannot find the course you are looking for please let us know and we will try and help. Plumpton is in a rural location in East Sussex but we have accommodation on site which only costs £35 a night and includes three meals a day in our canteen. We also have ample parking on site for people commuting in. There is a fantastic pub around the corner to relax in at the end of the day.

For more information contact the Programme Manager: Dona.Frost@plumpton.ac.uk

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Nisha Hartelius sat down with Sam Linter to discuss her new role as Wine Director at Plumpton College.
“I believe education is pivotal to the wine industry”
i
AN INTERVIEW WITH... SAM LINTER
Sam Linter

Unlocking the potential

UK research into the impacts on soil health and grape yields from vineyard cover crops.

Research for the UK wine production industry, funded by DEFRA’s Farming Innovation Programme (FIP), is well underway. The two-year project will provide new information about the effect of cover cropping on soil health, grape yields, juice quality and overall sustainability.

The aim of the research project is to increase productivity and sustainability in UK viticulture and to develop learning and outputs that can be shared with the UK wine production sector, including:

◆ Information on bespoke cover crop mixes for UK vineyards

◆ Demonstration vineyard sites showing how to optimise the benefits of cover crops for grape yields and juice quality

◆ Guidelines on how to improve vineyard soil health and carbon sequestration

◆ Knowledge of how cover crops affect the soil microbiome and how weeding strategies affect soil stability

◆ Soil water and nutrient management strategies to improve resource use efficiency in vineyards with cover crops

Almost a year into the project and the vineyard trials, at NIAB East Malling Research centre, Gusbourne and Chapel Down vineyards, are progressing well. Bespoke cover crop mixes, carefully developed with

support from project partner Denne & Sons, include both perennial and annual species.

Multi-faceted tests are being undertaken to determine the cover crop impacts including vineyard LIDAR mapping, soil and temperature monitoring, together with biological, physical and chemical soil analyses, carried out by the Natural Resources Institute (University of Greenwich) and NIAB. The juice, grapes and wine from the trial will also be analysed at NIAB East Malling’s new Wine Innovation Centre.

If you would like to follow the progress of the project, Vinescapes as project partners, have a dedicated website page where project updates will be shared, including plans for output dissemination to the sector. Please visit the Vinescapes website or email for more information.

DESKTOP www.vinescapes.com ENVELOPE info@vinescapes.com phone-alt 01306 733960
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
Photo: Vinescapes

A unique experience

Wine is such a personal thing and the way we experience it can influence our thoughts and feelings about a particular style of wine for a lifetime. If a wine is truly an expression of the terroir then each bottle is an invitation to experience the heart of the vineyard, its soil, the cultivation techniques used, the varieties and the history of the vines.

Barcelona is a beautiful city home to many wonders. It is a city of flair, creativity and most importantly imagination. Visitors and residents can experience the flair of one of the most Iconic football teams in the world. The Nou Camp is a space where the worlds best players have dazzled generations of spectators with their goals. The creativity on display at the The Picasso Museum ranges from the rural (some works of Picasso feature the mountainous regions of Terra Alta) to the raunchy and the imaginative structures of Antoni Gaudi are truly mind blowing. Whether turning a corner of a city street and finding yourself face to face with the Casa Batllo or climbing to the vantage point of the Park Guell it is obvious that Barcelona is a city of inspiration. (In fact rumour has it that the architecture of Gaudi in Barcelona

inspired George Lucas and the creation of the Storm Trooper helmets although this is not a confirmed story it underlines the lasting impression that this city can leave on visitors). In terms of wine some wineries in Terra Alta have architecture that was designed and built by Cesar Martinelli, a pupil of Gaudi.

The Praktik hotel chain operating in Barcelona has certainly embraced this creative atmosphere with their Vinoteca hotel situated in the centre of the city. Within walking distance to just about everywhere the hotel is described as a wine boutique hotel.

Praktik Vinoteca is a hotel with the theme of wine and yet the idea of a themed hotel does not do justice to the relaxed sophisticated style that greets the visitor. The hotel reception doubles as an impressive wine bar and it is common to find guests relaxing with a glass of wine amongst the walls lined with wine bottles or to see guests enjoying a private tasting with the hotels’ on site sommelier, Guillem Panisello Boet. Whilst wine tastings at a hotel may not seem unusual, the tastings at Praktik Vinoteca are not only unusual but remarkable. The wines

that are offered to guests are mostly Catalan but some Spanish wines with a different or unusual style are also served. The whole premise of the wine experience at this hotel is to allow the guests to experience wines in styles that are different from the big exporters of Spanish wine and the personalised wine experiences with a trained sommelier are a great way to look beyond the obvious in a relaxed atmosphere. Praktik’s hotel model is to showcase regionality and wines with stories. It would be possible to expand the principle further by offering guided tours to some of the vineyards and deepen the link for the tourists that flock to the city and for growers who would like to compare conditions and methods.

Guillem became a Sommelier at the hotel in 2014. Having worked in the wine industry and vineyards since 1997 he can talk guests through the wines in six different languages. He explained: “I enjoy sharing knowledge of wine with people who have the same enthusiasm, wine is mixed with chemistry and history… with wine I feel alive with simple things; good company, good conversation, the smells and the flavours that is my personal experience.” <<

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OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD WINE TOURISM
Guillem Panisello Boet, sommelier at the Praktik Vinoteca hotel, Barcelona

Wine is like music: Taylor Swift and Katy Perry can be fun and enjoyable but do not need much attention to understand alternatively

Bach, Straus, Vivaldi, Puccini with these you need to put in a lot of attention to understand all of the notes.

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The wine tastings use a specially designed table setting that incorporates the basic principles of tasting with visual guides to help judge the colours of both white and red wines the setting also indicates the primary, secondary and tertiary flavours and aromas that can be found in the wines. This accentuates the idea of a wine tutorial without becoming so formal that it disengages with the guests who are ultimately relaxing through the whole experience.

Guillem started the Cava experience by explaining the system that allows wine drinkers to see at a glance the style of Cava they are buying. The bottles are required by regulations to carry one of three stickers: white indicating a bottle aging time of 9-15

months; green indicating 15-30 months; and black indicating more than 30 months stored at 12 degrees and 65% humidity. “If you don’t know the brand then the consumer can go by the stickers which are the same in every country. If you want something for an aperitif then green or white sticker if you want something more elegant to pair with food then a black sticker,” explained Guillem.

“The three classic Catalan grapes used for Cava are Macabeo, Xarello, Parellada. That is the order of the harvest,” said Guillem. Each of these grapes contributes something different either in structure, acidity or aroma although Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are permitted but not commonly found in Cava.

Guillem explained that in the flat valley area

Pinot Noir is not exceptional “the Xarello is more interesting in these areas,” he said.

Speaking about exports of Spanish Cava Guillem explained that producers are either big or small: “There are producers of 100 million bottles or 40 million bottles or 200,000 bottles but nothing around three million bottles.” It is therefore not surprising that the export market does not see many of the fun and enterprising brands that simply do not have the resources to export internationally.

Guillem is quite candid about the problems with the designation Cava in that it does not have a dedicated region. “Cava does not represent a place and can be produced 1000km from here. Appellation to me means soil, weather, grapes, and methodology; all of

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<<

these things. Cava can come from many areas of Spain. So some people in Catalonia are making Clàssic Penedès from a 25,000 hectare region that starts just 30km from Barcelona. The region has more that 20 different grapes that are approved under the Penedès Denominación de Origen Protegida,” he said. This Clàssic Penedès is being named this way so that winemakers have an opportunity to reflect, more accurately, the soil, the unique climate and the methodology bringing a sense of place to the Catalan traditional method Sparkling.

Although the size of production figures are different those involved in viticulture in England and Wales will be able to identify with these problems. Both the notion that small producers struggle to finance and support international exports and the idea of wanting to preserve the special nature of your terroir as it is expressed in your wine whilst trying to find a way to differentiate your wine from other products are familiar themes.

The price point of the sparkling wines is quite interesting starting at just €7-11 for a white sticker traditional method sparkling. “You could line up 500 different Cava and perhaps only six of them would be over €30,” Guillem explained.

The backdrop for the wine tasting is an outdoor courtyard. This courtyard area has a stunning living wall. As with every aspect of the hotel the theme of wine is carefully but subtly seen in the living wall. Whilst the foliage is varied and beautiful it is possible again to find the subtle theme of wine in this space, vine leaves are clearly visible but neither dominant nor overpowering.

The first Wine that Guillem shows has a white

sticker but also a wrapped label with a cheeky design. “It is a fresh fruity style aimed at the younger drinker,” he explained. Talking about the younger wine drinkers Guillem said: “Craft beer can be seen as the sponsors of popular sporting events and music concerts but the world of wine does not know how to work together and because of this loses something.”

“It is important to find the correct moment for the wine. Young easy drinking styles are more suited to groups of friends together but with a more complex wine the conversation can mean that you miss something in the wine and therefore it is better to be more focussed.

“Here, there are 2,500 years of wine making history but cold fermentation techniques to preserve the delicate flavours of white and rosé have only been widely used since the 1980’s so in the mind of the older generation wine is red, red, red,” said Guillem.

Red wine is the subject for the second night of tasting and yet like everything in the hotel there is a depth to the experience that takes it further towards education than tasting. This is all done in a way that has an ease that is appealing and conducive to developing a passion beyond expectations for these wines and the regions.

Travelling down in the lift to the bar area is another example of how there is a subtle wine influence that enters your consciousness without being obvious. The lift is lined with

Guillem introduces red wine from Terra Alta which he describes as having a particular area of very special climate and soils. Wind follows the River Ebro and the soil here has more sand than the rest of this area with more vegetation and less rocks. Over plates of local cheese and ham Guillem explains that although Garnatxa is used in the production of rosé the grape is shown to its best advantage in red wines. “Because Garnatxa is a bigger grape there are more solids in the wine in comparison to Cabernet for example which has a ratio of 1:12 solid to liquid. Instead Garnatxa has a ratio of 1:24 which has massive influence on the polyphenolics, colour and tannin,” he said.

The Catalan wine makers are heavily influenced by French wine making not just because they share similar weather and grape varieties “but because of the history,” Guillem said. The Ottoman empire ended at the south of Barcelona meaning that it remained Christian and as such established deep historical links with Toulouse and Montpellier. In fact, the train journey from Montpellier to Barcelona is approximately three hours and the links between Catalonia and France can be further seen by the journey from Girona to Perpignan being around 30 minutes by train. It is impossible not to be swept along in the story as Guillem shows how history, culture, architecture and wine are inextricably linked, it is intoxicating in a figurative sense.

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the wooden facings of wine boxes.
<< OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
“To me the long finish of a good wine is like a good film or a good book and the lovely people you meet in your life, they remain always.”

In just a few days our visit to Barcelona had demonstrated extremes of weather from a mini heatwave to the tail end of a powerful storm. “The weather affects everything. In the north of Catalonia towards Girona there are beef producers, it is more green but the other parts of Catalonia have smaller animals because it is more dry. As an example seven meals out of ten would be pork with only three beef. The wines are perfect for the food choices much like places in Italy such as Piedmont,” explained Guillem.

The second wine of the evening is a Monastrell/Mourvèdre with Demeter certification and Guillem explained that this is possible due to the climate “it is a place without rain; no rain no fungus,” Guillem said smiling. The heat here means the canopy needs to be able to protect the grapes from

the extreme effects of the sun and so canopy management takes on an entirely different meaning “If you want to extract liquid the grapes need protection,” he added.

The hotel carries a large number of organic and biodynamic wines. “Decades ago some of the commercial products were not very healthy,” Guillem explained. He then went on to ask: “Who drinks the most of a wine from a vineyard? The owner, the workers and the producers drink far more than the consumer when they are blending and tasting. Consumers drink a bottle one week and a different bottle the next. So people moved away from chemicals that were unhealthy.” As with everything, balance is the key and Guillem explained that he had a particular dislike to the term natural wines. “When we use the name natural wine does that mean that 95% of wines

are not natural?” As an answer he suggests that more specific information should be given so the consumer really understands, for example a statement such as only wild yeast strains are used in this wine.

This idea brings the visit a great sense of symmetry. There is never a time when wine education will stop. “The world of wine is a never ending story,” said Guillem. Hotels like the Praktik Vinoteca are the next step in the education of wine drinkers showing a cross section of regional wines providing tailored expert knowledge but allowing the exploration and education to take place in a relaxed atmosphere. With its central location in one of the worlds most incredible cities the visitor is literally given the chance to explore the destination and the wines in a unique and combined way.

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<< For your own unique experience at Praktik Vinoteca hotel visit www.hotelpraktikvinoteca.com OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD

A year in the life of a vineyard

Ben Gallafant and Kayleigh Ireland from Whitehead Monckton’s Agricultural and Rural Land Team caught up with Mereworth Wines’ Head of Production, Scott Gebbie, at their Wateringbury vineyard.

August means veraison (well, here in Kent at least), the onset of grape ripening marked by the start of sugar accumulation within the grape berries. This is best seen in the red grape varieties which change colour and soften from the hard green berries that have been developing until now.

Veraison highlights the start of the ripening process, the speed of which is highly weather and temperature dependant and is very much a make or break time for any vineyard. The goal at this time of the year is to see the fruit that has established on the vine reach optimal maturity (sugar, acid and phenolic) suitable for high quality winemaking.

Though our summer has not been the best that it could have been, May and June provided great conditions for the vines through the early growing stages and flowering. Mereworth believe they are in a very good position and have high hopes for a great harvest. The fruit is developing well and, when we visited, Scott and his team were in the process of covering the vines with bird netting to protect the developing grapes.

At current capacity, Mereworth Wines’ vineyard can produce a maximum

of 20 tonnes of fruit. 14 tonnes of fruit were harvested last year, but Scott is hoping that there will be a greater harvest this year of around 17 tonnes, which would amount to the production of around 17,000 bottles of the various wines that Mereworth Wines have to offer. They produce three types of sparkling wines – Pink, White from White and White from Black. Sales are predominantly made to the public through the winery’s vibrant and dynamic cellar door and bar which is located in Brewer’s Hall Oast, but small amounts of wine are sold on at wholesale level to local restaurants. Scott explained that Mereworth Wines have a great deal of commercial interest in their products, but meeting the growing demand at their cellar door is the immediate priority. Mereworth is at the beginning of a long journey in English Winemaking and distribution will come as production grows over the years.

Retaining control of their products allows Mereworth Wines to think big, and additional good quality land within the estate has already been earmarked for the planting of more vines. This expansion will put them in good stead to cope with the ever-increasing level of demand they face.

Mereworth Wines

Brewers Hall Oast, Tonbridge Road, Kent, ME18 5JD phone-alt 01622 817795

ENVELOPE admin@mereworthwines.co.uk twitter @mereworthwines

Mereworth Wines offer winery and vineyard tours and you can also join them for their weekly events:

Fish & Fizz Friday

Every Friday. Food served 12-8pm

Pizza Saturdays

Every Saturday. Food Served 12-6pm

Sunday Sessions

Every Sunday. Food served 12-6pm Live music 12-5pm

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DESKTOP www.whitehead-monckton.co.uk ENVELOPE Kayleighireland@wmlaw.uk phone-alt 01622 698064
Kay l hIrela ndAsso gal E xe c u t evi B Gal l a f a n sAt roticiloS OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD

The annual bunfight

I attend tastings for the wines.

I do not doubt that, with all the best intentions in the world, the WineGB mob opened the doors to this year’s annual tasting, expecting it to be an unqualified success. Judging by the grumblings in the room, from wineries and guests alike, and the following rumblings on social media, it did not have the sheen of success that one might have hoped for.

The same old hiccups present themselves every year. My biggest gripe is well-known to all in our industry. Attendees must be given tasting booklets to write notes, with accurate information on every wine present. We do not need pretty pictures or technical information – we can all look this up later if desired. But we need to be able to write fast notes if we stand a chance in hell of making it around the tables.

The very least a winery can hope for is enough time for tasters to make it around the room to their wines. This year, I failed to visit five tables – this annoys me because I will have left good wines behind, and it annoys those who spent good money endeavouring to showcase their wines to the largest group of tasters possible because they missed out on my visit and, no doubt, others, too. Tapping notes into your phone, no matter how snazzy the app, is absolutely insane, not least because it takes an age to find the correct wine, let alone input your thoughts one letter at a time.

I know it was a sweltering day, and there was nothing anyone could have done about that, but the venue, while extremely beautiful and close to my house (thank you), was far too small to accommodate the number of winery stands, plus the number of keen tasters. In the end, it was a hot and sweaty bunfight.

The focus table was a joke – it looked like a free-for-all at the local rugby club, and the room layout was, as always, nonsensical. Why on earth can’t the room be laid out in alphabetical order?

So, all in all, it was pretty disappointing in several crucial areas. But I am not there for the ambience, and I hate talking while I taste. I attend tastings for the wines, and I was spoilt for choice. English and Welsh wines have never tasted this delicious in such large numbers. Like last year, I scoured the room searching for a theme and came up with the same one I did 12 months ago – Pinot Meunier. This grape is an absolute superstar, and it could quickly become a specialist subject for us in the UK, given the variety and sheer class of the wines I tasted. Here are three of the best.

2019 Harrow & Hope, Blanc de Noirs

Pinot Meunier

£38.00

www.harrowandhope.com

The H&H squad are jumping with joy over this newly released wine. It has been a decade since they launched a new label, and with only 20% of PM planted in the vineyard, it simply hasn’t been possible to spare the stock before to make a standalone wine.

However, in 2019, the opportunity arose, and Henry Laithwaite grabbed it with both hands. Henry thinks our climate is perfect for this grape because he can pick it later without it dropping too much acidity. The resulting wine is uncommonly luxurious while retaining pristine freshness, and while a small amount (15%) was fermented in a 500L puncheon to add some spice and depth, the rest was left in steel to keep the flavour upright and urgent.

After 34 months on its lees, it was bottled, and I am beyond thrilled to announce that this is one of the most impressive, forward-drinking PMs I have ever tasted.

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Mathe Juk
e s
WINE REVIEWS
Photo: Simon John Owen

2018 Gusbourne, Blanc de Meuniers, Down Field Vineyard

£89.00

Down Field Vineyard sits on a southfacing ancient escarpment near Goodwood in East Sussex, and those in the know at Gusbourne secretly think it is the jewel in their crown. Here, an exceptional sparkling wine has been brought to life, and after 47 months of lees ageing, those closest to Gusbourne, in a geographical and spiritual sense, will be best placed to purchase a bottle. This is the grandest and most layered Pinot Meunier I have tasted.

It is kaleidoscopically perfumed and flavoured, and, as you might expect from the regal 2018 vintage, its texture, volume of fruit, and sophistication are all sensational. I am embarrassed to share some of the descriptors I noted while I was in raptures tasting this wine. Suffice to say, it is the gift that keeps giving, so I hope you can taste it without delay.

2022 Oastbrook, Pinot Meunier

£21.50

www.oastbrook.com

I was willing a top-flight still Pinot Meunier to come along before I finished for the day, and with only a handful of tables to go, I was poured a glass of Oastbrook, blind, by winemaker America Brewer. She had no idea I was on the hunt for a Meunier, so when I beamed my highest wattage smile possible, she looked pleased and a little nervous! What a wine. Only 500 individually numbered bottles were made, and I hope a couple are left by the time this article is published because this is a sublime wine. With no oak, no malolactic, and a lovely lick of 9 g/L residual sugar, this is one of the year’s most dramatically balanced and lasciviously expressive white wines. Who would have thought a still white Pinot Meunier could taste so layered and beautiful? America – that’s who.

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Green Sussex fading into blue…

Some things are so good that they simply demand to be shared, and that’s certainly true of the Weyborne Estate, north of Midhurst in stunning West Sussex countryside.

Some things are so good that they simply demand to be shared, and that’s certainly true of the Weyborne Estate, north of Midhurst in stunning West Sussex countryside.

The historic estate, which sits just below Black Down, the highest point of the South Downs and in the care of the National Trust, clings to the side of a south-facing slope that is ideal for growing sparkling wine grapes bursting with real purity.

But the Weyborne Estate is about more than grapes; about more, even, than the

stunning 2018 Family Reserve currently available from the cellar door. Weyborne is a truly special place, which is why owner Nick Clarke is keen to share it with as many people as possible.

With links to the poet Alfred, Lord Tennyson, and to Oliver Cromwell, who stayed in the imposing house at the heart of the estate, Weyborne offers spectacular views right across the South Downs, together with a number of stunning viewpoints, tucked away retreats and even a small lake that will soon offer wild swimming.

“While the wine is first class, the setting is unbeatable, which is why the vision for Weyborne is about encouraging people to share in its delights,” general manager and viticulturist Benjamin Abric explained during a walk around the estate on a glorious late summer’s afternoon.

“We want people to buy our wine, but we also want them to buy into what is going on here, which is why we offer two ways in which people can share in the Weyborne vision.”

The most accessible course for wine-lovers who enjoy stunning scenery and exclusive

32 Malcolm Triggs
VINEYARD VISIT
“The aim is to continue to improve the quality of our wines rather than increase the quantity we produce"

access to unbeatable settings is to join Weyborne’s Temple of the Winds scheme, named after a Bronze Age circular bank, now a South Downs viewpoint on a walk often enjoyed by Tennyson in the mid-19th century.

Becoming a Temple of the Winds member costs £995, but since that includes £990 worth of Weyborne’s ‘field blend’ Family Reserve (65% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and a touch of Pinot Meunier), the deal is impressively good.

The additional fiver allows members to access the estate, enjoy the view, use the terraces and hideaways for family parties or to entertain friends or simply take a peaceful stroll around the 50-acre site, some 20 acres of which is under vines.

That figure of 20 acres is likely to remain static, too, at least for the time being. “The aim is to continue to improve the quality of our wines rather than increase the quantity we produce,” said Ben. “We also want to keep developing new ways to enjoy the natural beauty of the site and encourage people to visit, so planting more vines is not part of the current thinking.”

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Benjamin Abric, General Manager
<<

<< If the Temple of the Winds scheme is for those who want to be “involved”, in Ben’s words, then Weyborne’s Patron scheme is for those who see themselves as “integral” to its future. At £9,950, becoming a Patron is more likely to appeal to corporate members than individuals – although both are equally welcome – but the scheme offers benefits to match.

Vinenutrition: The balancing act

Those benefits include Patrons having their own wine made, bottled

John Buchan AGRONOMY LTD

For independent advice on:

and individually labelled from one whole row of grapes in what has been named “The Patron’s Block”, the original vineyard planted in 2007. That’s likely to produce around 60 bottles of a truly limited edition wine.

“As a Christmas gift, handing someone a bottle of quality English Sparkling wine with your own label on it takes some beating,” said Ben, “although you could, of course, keep it all to yourself!”

Along with exclusive access to the estate and areas such as the Bathing House and the Dovecote, Patrons will be invited to Weyborne House for lunch and other events with the owner and will also enjoy a helicopter trip to the estate from London for four people.

Nick is also a keen polo player with his own pitch locally, offering Patrons the possibility of a special day out watching the sport.

For independent advice on:

 Interpretation of soil and tissue

 Formulation of nutrient programmes

 Interpretation of soil and tissue

 Supply of tailor-made products

 Formulation of nutrient programmes

 General agronomic advice

 Supply of tailor-made products

 General agronomic advice

With only 50 rows of vines in the original (now the Patron’s) block, membership is limited to 50 people, but following a launch in mid-September, that number has already been significantly dented.

“We were delighted with the response to this exclusive opportunity, and I am sure it won’t be long before the block is all spoken for, so anyone interested needs to make contact soon,” said Ben, part of a winemaking family that hails from the Southern Rhone. After completing a degree in viticulture and oenology he successfully managed vineyards and production across France and the USA

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john.buchan@btinternet.com 01630 639875 07713 632347 1a. Garden City Tem Hill Market Drayton Shropshire TF9 3QB
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OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD VINEYARD VISIT
John Buchan AGRONOMY
Vinenutrition: The balancing act

before arriving at Weyborne.

A summer hamper and 36 bottle of the Family Reserve, which retails at £55 per bottle, is also included in the offer to Patrons.

It was the location and the stunning views that inspired Nick Clarke to buy Weyborne as somewhere to live, not as a business location, but the three acres already put to vines were clearly doing well and so he decided to plant more.

With a business background in mining, he was fascinated by the geology of the site and by its unique terroir. The river Wey rises at Black Down and natural springs abound, including one that feeds The Bathing House, where the water is clean and pure and where the plan is to make the lake available for wild swimming in the near future.

“The steep slope here at Weyborne, together with the altitude, gives an extra freshness to the wine and allows the grapes to retain their acidity, which is ideal for sparkling wines,” explained Ben.

“Our goal is to reflect the essence of Weyborne and the uniqueness of the terroir and the climate in our Family Reserve, which is a Chardonnay-led Cuvee.”

Ben went on: “In 2018 we were dealt a near-perfect hand for growing world-class grapes, and after four years of maturation it was bottled in in 2022 with zero dosage, allowing us to showcase the terroir in style.” The relatively high altitude of this unique site also means that frost is rarely a problem at Weyborne.

35 <<
“Our goal is to reflect the essence of Weyborne and the uniqueness of the terroir and the climate in our Family Reserve, which is a Chardonnay-led Cuvee.”

<< Weyborne currently uses two top class winemakers, although the longer-term plan is to bring more of the process in house to give Ben more control. “We feel one way in which we could deliver our goal of making even better wine rather than more wine would be to press our own grapes,” he said.

“This is a journey, though, and we are planning higher-tier wines and prestige Cuvees that our Patrons and Temple of the Winds members will be able to enjoy while taking in the wonderful views of the South Downs from the various viewpoints the site offers.”

As with the 2018 vintage, Weyborne’s aim is to make the most of the vineyard’s altitude and allow the terroir of this special place to come through fully. It’s a recurring theme of Ben’s and one that highlights the uniqueness of the location. “These aren’t your normal polite slopes – they are imposing slopes,” he pointed out while walking back up to a wooden viewing (and drinking) terrace at the end of our tour.

The new terrace is one of the many features that make Weyborne about more than the wine. The Bathing House and the Dovecote, both of which offer unique settings for private dining, family parties or corporate occasions, make membership an attractive option, while there are also plans to build a ‘cave’ into one part of the hillside. Other natural attractions include a duck pond and a number of secluded picnic spots.

“Weyborne is one of those places that you have to see to appreciate,” said Ben. “Nick Clarke saw it and fell in love with it, and he wants other people to share it. Becoming a Patron is the ultimate way of doing that.”

As a sign off from such a visually poetic spot, the last word must surely go to Alfred, Lord Tennyson, who wrote of this very site: “You came and looked and loved the view, long known and loved by me, Green Sussex fading into blue with one grey glimpse of sea.”

36
“Weyborne is one of those places that you have to see to appreciate”
37 www.mayowynnebaxter.co.uk Specialist legal services for Vineyards & Wineries Call us on 0800 84 94 101 Offices across the South East Agricultural matters Biodiversity Net Gain Borrowing against stored wine Business sale/purchase/transfer/set up Commercial property sales/purchases/leases Contracts advice/drafting/disputes Employment matters Grape broking/growing contracts Land sourcing/sales/purchases Planning permission Tenancy issues Wine storage arrangements RELIABLE CLOSURES THAT HELP SEAL, PROTECT AND ADD VALUE TO BRANDS Quality Stoppers and Closures Since 1774 +44 (0)1844 203100 sales@rankincork.co.uk rankincork.co.uk CROWN CAPS SPARKLINGWINECORKS TIN &POLYLAMCAPSULES HEATSHRINKCAPSULES FOILS STILLWINECORKS WIRE HOODS OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD

Start of the new academic year

Introductions to new wine department staff.

The start of our new academic year is always a busy and exciting time at Plumpton College Wine department. With preparations for the upcoming harvest and our existing students returning.

We also welcome the new Wine Production & International Wine Business undergraduate students and Viticulture and Oenology postgraduate students on-site. As ever, a mixture of backgrounds and experiences make for dynamic groups, all united by a passion for wine. Finally, we are very pleased to announce new staff members to the department:

Sam Linter – Director of Wine

Sam comments – I am pleased to have started at Plumpton

College

as the Director of Wine. We have exciting opportunities, to grow and perfect our courses, with the very talented team in the Wine Department. We are all keen to empower the next generation of wine entrepreneurs, viticulturists and winemakers, to support our successful and growing UK wine industry and those further afield!

Nisha Hartelius is writing an article about Sam and her new appointment in this magazine (page 22), for further information.

Nick Hutchinson – Wine Business Programme Manager

Nick has a BSc Econ from UCL and trained as an Accountant at Arthur Andersen, before embarking on a career in Investment Banking, where he was a Managing Director of Counterparty Risk Management at Morgan Stanley. After surviving the financial crisis, a decision was made

to see life outside the city, by enrolling on the BA Wine Business Degree at Plumpton. Nick graduated top of his class with 1st Class honours. After graduating from Plumpton, Nick spent nearly 8 years at Bolney Wine Estate in Sussex, working in Trade Sales and later in Hospitality as manager of the extensive tour programme and the cellar door. He is delighted to be back at Plumpton, a place with real resonance for him, as it allowed him to retrain and refocus and hopes that students will be equally inspired by their time here.

Rebecca Apley – Wine Business lecturer

Rebecca has been working in the business of wine for 15 years, and is delighted to accept a post lecturing Wine Business at Plumpton College. Her experience in the hospitality industry is wide ranging, with a portfolio of clients across Yorkshire and Sussex, including time teaching WSET courses for the fantastic Yorkshire Wine School. Her most recent project was for Henners Vineyard, Herstmonceux, managing their first direct to consumer venture. This beautiful new cellar door is now enjoying its second season open to the public.

Rebecca has specialised in this kind of opening management and training since setting up her company, Apfelbaum Ltd, in 2017. She has worked with household names like Diageo and Heineken as well as unique independents such as Once Upon A Vine. Here, Rebecca and chef Vanessa Doyle won the Loire Valley Wines X Harpers merchants’ competition with their pop-up dining experience, Loire Valley Nights. Before Apfelbaum, Rebecca worked in restaurants, bars, and pubs, developing a love for whiskey, wine, and exceptional customer service.

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Sam Linter Rebecca Apley
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD EDUCATION
Nick Hutchinson

Keep Botrytis out of later-harvested bunches

With picking of early grapes completed, mid-season cultivars now starting, and later maturing crops still some weeks off harvest, guarding against continued high botrytis pressure must be a priority, as Hutchinsons agronomist Chris Cooper explains.

Despite an unsettled summer and slightly later start to picking than last year, prospects generally still look very good for the 2023 harvest reflecting the excellent conditions during flower initiation last year.

For later-maturing cultivars, much obviously depends on the weather over coming weeks and how quickly crops ripen. Ripening can soon catch up in warm, dry conditions, but if it’s dull and wet like July and August, some growers of late-maturing varieties like Chardonnay, Seyval and Pinot Noir (late), may still be picking into late October or early November.

Botrytis pressure builds

Given the unsettled season so far, managing botrytis bunch rot risk is understandably at the forefront of many growers’ minds, and must be guarded against right up to harvest to protect both yields and juice quality.

Conditions have been ideal for botrytis this year, starting with wet weather in late June/early July, which reduced set in late-flowering cultivars and allowed latent infection to start building in some crops. This has been exacerbated by wet conditions through summer, increasing the chances of thin-skinned berries splitting and letting infection take hold.

Depending on how far the infection goes, sour rots can sometimes follow, which in turn creates conditions that attract Spotted Wing Drosophila (SWD).

Risk does vary according to cultivar, being greatest in those with tight bunches where the pressure is more likely to build up to the point where berries pressing on each other give rise to splits. Conversely, many hybrids, or those treated with growth regulators to loosen bunches, and certain clonal cultivars, have much looser clusters, which allows more room for berries to expand, resulting in less splitting and reduced botrytis risk.

Control options

A range of control options are available, but the most appropriate depends on the estimated picking date, and what has been used so far.

The main fungicides include products based on fenhexamid, pyrimethanil, and cyprodinil + fludioxonil. These can be used twice each in any one season, but given the high disease risk through the summer, many growers may have exhausted these by now.

Alternatives include products based on boscalid, or tebuconazole + trifloxystrobin, although these have 28 and 21-day harvest intervals respectively, which is likely to preclude their use on all but the very latest picked grapes.

Beyond that, the only remaining options are the less effective bicarbonate, or biological controls, such as cerevisane, and those based on naturally occurring microbes, such as Bacillus or Aureobasdium products. Bacillus products are a preventative option that work by colonising the same areas that botrytis pathogens would inhabit. Bacteria then produce anti-fungal compounds to prevent botrytis infection. With little or no harvest interval, they can be used right up to harvest, but their effectiveness is very much dependent on achieving good spray coverage and colonisation of the target area (i.e. the bunches).

Ideally, growers will have already stripped most of the leaf out of the fruiting wire area to improve ripening, which should benefit spray coverage on the bunches. Adjuvant regulations prohibit the use of silicon wetters, or Wetcit, to assist with coverage if using plant protection products at full rate, but there is the option to apply reduced rate and a bunch targeted spray plus adjuvant, or use a full rate without adjuvant still targeted on the bunches. Whichever option is chosen, coverage is key and this depends on what can be achieved with a medium to fine spray and directed application from air assisted sprayers, or controlled droplet application (CDA) nozzles.

Post-harvest feed

While the prospects for this harvest reflect the excellent conditions during flower initiation last year, unfortunately, the same cannot be said about the likely flower initiation in 2023, given the dull, wet conditions this July.

With this in mind, post-harvest foliar nutrition could be a worthwhile investment to help ensure next year’s canes and buds are as healthy as possible. There were few opportunities to do so in 2022, given early leaf senescence in an exceptionally dry year, but there may be a window to apply N,P,K and trace elements such as boron, zinc, manganese and magnesium, to earlier-harvested vines this autumn. A sustainable way of getting nitrogen into the leaf is using R-Leaf, which captures nitrous oxides from air and converts them to nitrate.

Even though a large amount of material is removed during winter pruning, applying foliar nutrition before leaves start to senesce, or the first frost, has proven to be a useful way of getting vital nutrients into buds, resulting in bold, hardy buds to select from for next year. Hopefully this will translate into good flower production next spring. The alternative is not to feed, which, after a season such as this, usually results in weaker flowering and possibly poor fruit set.

40 DESKTOP www.hlhltd.co.uk ENVELOPE information@hlhltd.co.uk phone-alt 01945 461177
40 AGRONOMY DIARY OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD

Pitfalls of vineyard tenancy agreements

Considerations for existing or new tenancies.

An agricultural tenancy, or lease, of vineyard land is different to a tenancy of commercial properties such as offices. They are not just different in how they are written, but also what laws apply to them. There are also different types of agricultural tenancies which are broadly split into two camps depending on when they were granted:

1. Tenancies granted before 1st September 1995 (called AHA 1986 tenancies after the legislation that applies to them, the Agricultural Holdings Act 1986)

2. Tenancies granted on or after 1st September 1995 (called Farm Business Tenancies or FBT).

Many of the AHA 1986 tenancies still exist. This legislation provides protection for tenants who have a long-term investment in their agricultural property and gives them sufficient time for e.g. their vines to grow and make the tenancy a worthwhile endeavour.

If you are being granted a new tenancy now you will be granted a Farm Business Tenancy. AHA 1986 tenancies and FBTs operate in different ways so it is important to understand which tenancy you have.

If you have one of the above tenancies, there are a few pitfalls that you should be aware of:

Pitfall 1 – if you have an AHA 1986 tenancy that began before 12 July 1984

The 12 July 1984 date is critical. These tenancies are unique as they give the tenant succession rights. On the death or retirement of a tenant, a close relative (such as a spouse or child) can apply for a new tenancy of the land (on the basis that certain criteria are met e.g. the new tenant’s principal source of livelihood comes from the property). This succession can pass twice so the first tenant’s child could continue the tenancy and afterwards their child could also continue the tenancy. Assuming each tenant remains for 50 years, you could see a tenancy that spans three generations of a family over 150 years. These succession rights mean these tenancies will be around for many years to come.

Surprisingly these tenancies can be orally agreed or in writing. The problem arises when the agreement has been forgotten or is vague. Unless there is an express clause that stops the tenant from selling their tenancy, the tenant can sell freely – and there is a danger that the tenant can sell to a company. As companies cannot die or retire the succession rights mean this tenancy can last forever.

If you are a landlord you can skirt this problem by quickly serving a section 6 notice (this notice says you want to clarify the terms of the tenancy). After the landlord serves this notice, the tenant cannot sell their lease until the terms of the tenancy are agreed. The parties can then agree the conditions of selling the tenancy on.

Tenancies granted between July 1984 and September 1995 do not have these succession rights (there are a few exceptions) and generally last one lifetime.

Pitfall 2 – if you have a FBT granted after 1 September 1995

FBTs can also be in writing or by oral agreement. The law doesn’t really get involved with FBTs and the parties are left to agree terms themselves. This does mean though that if you don’t have a clause that covers a particular point then you don’t have the safety net of the law stepping in to imply a clause for you. If it is not covered then you will need to negotiate that point. An example is if you are a tenant and want to build a new tasting room but that is not covered in your agreement. You would not be allowed to build anything without your landlord agreeing.

The takeaway

The main takeaway is not to rely on oral agreements or vague tenancy agreements. If you are agreeing a new lease it is important to have a robust tenancy agreement that covers all bases. Not only does this give certainty and means both sides have thought through all their concerns, but it also saves headaches and legal costs further down the line.

This article does not constitute legal advice

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Nish Hartel ius Dip SET Law y e r
LEGAL LOOKING FOR LEGAL ADVICE? Please get in touch and I’ll be happy to have a chat. DESKTOP www.gunnercooke.com phone-alt 07958 033 084 ENVELOPE Nisha.Hartelius@gunnercooke.com
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
42 MISSED AN ISSUE? Call the hotline 01959 543 747 * Visit shop.kelsey.co.uk/vineyard-magazine *Hotline open Mon – Fri 8.30am to 5.30pm. Calls charged at your standard network rate or scan me! While there is undoubtedly an art to making wine, Artelium has gone further by pu ing art at the centre of its entire operation. Artistically made INSIDE Tackling Spotted Wing Drosophila Planting day at Biddenden Vineyard Demystifying wine labels LAND & PROPERTY CONSULTANTS Matthew Berryman LAND & PROPERTY CONSULTANTS Site-finding Sales acquisitions Planning applications Environmental schemes grants matthew@c-l-m.co.uk The Mount Vineyard sits in a quaint and beautiful landscape that is a painters idyll. MARCH 2023 The art of wine INSIDE Fast track to the best equipment When fungus attacks three wines that use carefully chosen words LAND & PROPERTY CONSULTANTS Site-finding Sales acquisitions Planning applications Environmental schemes & grants matthew@c-l-m.co.uk INSIDE Frost protection Introducing our new columnists Matthew Jukes looks at some incredible wines that catch the imagination Visiting a vineyard on the site of a medieval abbey FEBRUARY 2023 Agreeable symmetry LAND & PROPERTY CONSULTANTS Site-finding Sales acquisitions Planning applications Environmental schemes grants matthew@c-l-m.co.uk INSIDE Event buzzing with enthusiasm Keeping ahead of the game Sampling English wine The Grange Winery in Hampshire is a place where past, present and future are inextricably linked. JANUARY 2023 Past, present and future LAND & PROPERTY CONSULTANTS Site-finding Sales acquisitions Planning applications Environmental schemes grants matthew@c-l-m.co.uk INSIDE The science of quality Pioneer in the UK wine industry Strong posts and tight wires Following their own path Visiting Rathfinny Wine Estate as they continue their unique journey DECEMBER 2022 VINEYARD CONSULTANTS Matthew Berryman 07710 765323 matthew@c-l-m.co.uk show preview INSIDE Machine harvesters are shaking it up “There’s gold in them thar hills” Deep connection At charming Mountfield Winery grapes go from vine to bo le without travelling o site. NOVEMBER 2022 ORDER TODAY! To discuss your project in more detail email enquiries@kenward.co.uk or call 01403 210218 www.kenward.co.uk Kenward Construction based in Horsham, West Sussex offer a full design and build service for your next steel framed building including composite cladding, concrete panels, roller shutter doors and bespoke designs to meet individual planning conditions. Kenward Construction also offer a wide range of services offering a truly one stop shop for your next building project. Demolition, plant hire, access roads, drainage, sewage treatment plants, rainwater harvesting, paving, concrete floors/ slabs, walling and site landscaping.  Office 01825 371500 � info@formabuild.co.uk  www.formabuild.co.uk 100% British designed & built Over 35 Years experience Site visits Call to arrange a site survey formabuild.co.uk STEEL FRAMED BUILDINGS, RECLADDING, REPAIRS AND GROUNDWORK � � @formabuild.co.uk  @info_forma We specialise in the supply and construction of steel framed buildings. We have a wealth of knowledge and experience in the wine and fruit production sector to complete your new facility Based in the heart of Sussex, covering the South East. Sussex builders since at least 1605. Forma offer all aspects of steel framed construction and cladding together with groundworks and electrical fit out if required. OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD

Planting review: Harper Adams University

2023 was another hugely successful planting season for VineWorks with more than 550,000 vines planted over 37 sites across 16 counties. As the vines begin their journey in the Great British wine industry, we caught up with Professor Frank Vriesekoop from Harper Adams University to reflect on the decision to plant a vineyard now, the choices made throughout the process and their ultimate end goals.

Introduction to Harper Adams University

Since it was founded in 1901, Harper Adams University has been the leading British specialist higher education institution addressing the future developments of our planet’s agrifood resources, their processing, land management and sustainable business approaches. In doing so, Harper Adams strives to stay ahead of developments where both national and global movements impact challenges and opportunities in the agrifood/beverage sector.

Decision to plant a vineyard

Set on a nearly 500-hectare farm in Shropshire, Harper Adams has recently allocated one hectare to plant a vineyard to develop a site for cool climate viticulture research and teaching to support one of the fastest growing agricultural sectors in the UK. The vineyard is also an example site for existing farmers who look for farm-diversification opportunities. Discussions to establish a vineyard at Harper Adams have been ongoing for many years with strong support from some of the local vineyards. The notion that global warming is impacting established agricultural practices also drove the decision to establish the vineyard.

Choice of varieties

VineWorks sourced vines for the planting at Harper Adams from two long-standing nurseries, one in Germany and the other in France. The varieties were selected with Martin Vickers from Halfpenny Green who has

been growing grapes in the region for decades and is one of the pioneers of British wine.

Recognising that global warming by itself is not enough to justify productive viticulture near the northern boundaries, they decided to plant a total of 3,500+ vines across a mix of “traditional” and “newer” varieties. Among the more traditional varieties planted were Bacchus, Siegerrebe, Chardonnay, Müller Thurgau and two clones of Pinot Noir. Among the newer varieties planted were three PIWI varieties: Cabaret Noir, Divico and Muscaris.

The vineyard site and orientation were selected to have the main varieties in different orientations and also to have a small part of the site in a spring-frost prone area. These purposely adverse situations were included to strengthen the teaching and research potential to support the cool climate wine industry.

Planting process

Harper Adams engaged VineWorks for the establishment of the vineyard “from concept to planting” with ongoing support and advice. VineWorks managed the project through site evaluation, vineyard design and GPS precision planting; trellising will be installed this autumn.

Future goals

To support the fast-growing wine industry, it is likely that Harper Adams will progressively expand their plantings to reflect new varieties entering the market and to collaborate with both academic and industry partners to develop new and adapted technologies in both cool climate viticulture and winemaking practices.

Harper Adams will shortly be launching a selection of courses that support the cool climate wine industry. These will range from traditional university courses (BSc and Master courses), but also practical-oriented courses whether those are land-based, production-based, lab-based, or aimed at the business end of the wine/alcohol industry.

43 es Dodson d e r o f Vni DESKTOP www.vine-works.com ENVELOPE sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777
Photo: Harper Adams University
THE VINE POST

A VITICULTURIST'S DIARY

Walks and talks

Under a blazing hot September sky, Rebschule Freytag presented their annual 'Rebsortentage', which in effect are their 'Open Days', Monday to Friday.

The matter of new vine varieties is taken seriously by the German wine industry, so this was well attended.

We were fortunate in being able to call upon Klaus and Karl Rummel, of Bio-Wein Rummel, for their support. Klaus established a direction in vineyard management and wine making many years ahead of others, those that now talk about similar ecological issues; minimising chemical use in the vineyard whilst building up the soils vitality and even vibrancy.

Naturally we wished to show the new vine varieties in their full crop. Thus there were 'Walks and Talks' through Souvignier Gris, Cabertin, Sauvignac, Calardis Blanc, Cabernet Blanc, Laurot, Cal 1-28, and Pinotin.

At any given block we had varying aspects of their management outlined to us. Not all being the same, and where indeed many were subject to varying field trials.

Klaus gave a lot of time explaining his philosophy around soil management, whilst illustrating his inter-row systems, the under-vine work, and the alternating row programme of change from one year to the next.

He pointed out a niggly problem that he had and emphasised the work that he now feels he is forced to undertake. This stems from the rather unusual periodic event in German village vineyard management, called Flurbereinigung.

To be honest I do not fully understand the background to this, but it is something along these lines...

Through inheritance blocks of vines get smaller and smaller in their number of rows, as they are divided by the numerous family offspring. Eventually a situation arises where the many rows of vines that you may have, say 25, are indeed made up from many different, and small blocks. It is possible that those 25 rows, in total, are in seven different places. Thus some could be but two rows together, or four...

Come a time when for the 'collective good' it is decided that the time has come to return peoples holdings, all into one block, then a whole shoulder of hillside of vines is ripped out, the land lays fallow for a year, then it is

all replanted. The workings of the collective thinking, or a power in a committee here, is beyond me.)

Naturally there are benefits to doing this. For example it becomes easier to manage one single large block, than it is to seek out your two rows 'here', with another four rows 'there', etc.

Also for the collective good the old, weak and often poorly managed blocks are done away with, which can uplift the community standing in the quality stakes of a village.

Gone are the out of date varieties, and in comes the future!

However, supposing that after these changes you end up with a block of soil that previously had been neglected, then you have a lot of work ahead of you to bring it back to life. Regenerative viticulture is not a new subject for these people.

Once, years previous whilst I was working in New Zealand, a visiting German vineyard owner had a look at the soil analysis from a vineyard there, in Nelson, South Island.

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Sam Doncaster works for Volker and Marion Freytag, of Rebschule Freytag, Lachen-Speyerdorf, Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, Pfalz ENVELOPE samdoncaster@hotmail.com

He looked at the level of humus and stated: "The decimal point is in the wrong place.”

No, in fact New Zealand 'new soils', where not so long ago the land was forested, typically have a humus level ten times greater than those of old vineyards in Germany.

When you have tired old soils such as this, it can be very tempting to rectify matters by throwing sacks of industrial, granular fertilizers at 'the problem' but as we know, that is not going to work for you in the long run.

The soil needs, in its heart, a large amount of vitality. It should not be considered as some inert block on which, or in which, vines simply stand. So what Klaus is now faced with is, through his efforts, revitalising that old 'block'. For those of you so interested in such matters, you no doubt hold your own ideas as to how to go about this. There are mechanical means with which to initially loosen that 'block' and there are whole programmes of introducing differing selections of beneficial plants to assist in this as well. For experienced people, we can then see what is happening, and over time.

For example the first thing that we can see after working the soil, are living annual plants coming up, introduced or otherwise. Then come the bi-annual flowering plants.

Next being more perennial types, and these could include nitrogen fixing leguminous plants like clovers, beans, trefoils etc.

By about year four, but definitely five, various grasses are becoming dominant, where grass is nicely 'functional' in its durability to work on, but is poor for soil management.

Time to turn the soil over, where to do so is to fold the green swathe just into the surface where you could liken this then to being a form of a green manure.

The timing within the growing year is important to consider as well, where application just prior to flowering can ensure that the vines receive a boost of soil solution, as the competition for it has just been greatly reduced, and this assists a better fruit set.

Thus the above is used to periodically alternate the rows soil management.

Differing regions like to undertake their soil activities at differing times, but if it is done so in a manner where a row becomes available for re-seeding, it helps to do this whilst the soil is warm enough to induce a good germination.

Klaus has a mix of 'new plants' in his rows that are a few too many for me to identify and count, but diversity is a key issue here. Beans, oats, sunflowers, turnips, vetch's, differing brassica types, but not mustard, (where too many of them and its 'hot' noxious character is restrictive to soil invertebrate life I'm told,) Rye, Phacelia, and indeed others more than I can see.

Then there are the natural occurring vineyard plants. Live and let live.

"Another friend here who works hard to build up his soils, tells me how pleased he is to find the 'tell tale' ploughings in his vineyards, as left by visiting wild boar, as they turn the ground over whilst looking for grubs etc.

This is a whole complex subject, and is as fascinating as listening to winemakers discuss which yeast/why? Or oak, and how to apply its influence...or is it all about the handling of the

wine and resulting micro oxidative actions? The questions continue.

I feel that it is worth considering that whilst utilising an extensive seeding programme, that those very seeds all hold adequate nutrient with which to establish new life. As such whether they grow or not, or when they die, or are killed off, they 'give' to the soil. After all how many kilos of this seed mix per ha will there be?

People do like to undertake a raft of differing trials in their vineyards as well; it being a good way to continue to learn.

Naturally eco-considerate Germans, like Klaus and the family, use what could be described as 'collector/tunnel' sprayers. These are very effective in the early weeks of the growing season where much of the spraying cannot 'hit the target', so come around for a second try!

Whilst using a range of Piwi vines, and to be open about this matter not all might be as resistant as you could hope for, (but perhaps they produce good grapes, ones that ripen well for you,) the average across the companies spraying could drop to as low as 4 to 500 g/ha of copper per application. Again every region has its differing disease pressure, so this is a good figure for around here, where others might be naturally more fortunate. (Difficult or even nonesensical to generalise on this matter I feel.)

I do not like copper, as it simply is a broad spectrum toxin, eventually.

We saw other trials in our visit as well, stuff like cropping yields, and saw considerations as to when to drop/cut off the excess.

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OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
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Differing pruning regimes can really influence crop yield/shoot development, so whilst there are some generalisations about whether or not a vine should be long cane pruned, short caned, or even spur pruned, it is as well to undertake your own trials. Do not be afraid.

What you learn will be greater than any loss you might initially experience.

Likewise just how low can you really, and in practical terms, drop your spray schedule, or concentrations?

As a nursery we are very interested in the relationship between how a vine grows, how the vine picks up the soil solution, and indeed, which rootstock to utilise in the grafting work. Whilst we undertake some trials in these sort of areas, it is through working with our industry colleagues that we can really see what happens on a larger scale. Important stuff.

At the moment there are many concerned growers giving thought as to where best to direct future viticulture endeavours. A technician at a local analytical lab told me that he fields almost as many questions around "what to plant next, (are these new varieties any good...") as he does around his more basic lab work. Ultimately it is the efforts of the commercial world that shape that which becomes common usage.

And so we came to the tasting of wines, as being brought to the market by the many talented wine makers of this region.

Through the previous few weeks I have attended numerous opportunities to try wines from new varieties. For this visits to research stations and Geisenheim University offered many chances to try wine as

generally made in some micro-vinification manner. And they frequently tasted like it. In some ways, yuk, where it is rarely possible to make small quantities in ferments, resulting in a taste like a larger tank result.

There being a skill to seeing beyond the limitations as found in tiny quantity wine making.

However the 42 differing commercial volume wines that were offered back at base after the vineyard visit, at the Freytag office, were generally immensely impressive. All Piwi, all from people who simply work hard in their endeavours to create a sound business with a future, and a cleaner way of life.

Admirable results I thought, where the soil management is good, and in volumes that give efficiencies that ensure a very competitively low price. I feel sure that restricting the cost from spray applications, as well as giving a restricted chemical 'footprint', contribute considerably to the companies well being. A helpful marketing line for those so inclined.

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<< Sam Doncaster will be hosting a PIWI wine tasting TO BOOK YOUR TICKET VISIT www.vineyardshow.com 2023 OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD A VITICULTURIST'S DIARY

Preferred partner:

Harvest plans

Wine buyers often think that we, (winemakers), are the gurus who always know exactly what to do, how and when: the truth can be very different from this assumption.

Here we are talking about a creative style of winemaking in a constant search of improvement according to harvest variation often crossing the line of a comfort zone.

Winemaking is not a mathematical game. If we apply the same “rules” every year, the results can go too far from what we expect because the grapes are different from year to year. What we have to apply, is not a rule, but criteria based on technical knowledge and experience.

Wine sculpturing

We like to think that we’re 100% in control of making a wine; in reality, many decisions have already been made by the vineyard.

Like an artist with a piece of marble, the sculpture is already there, it needs to be expressed by removing the exceeding pieces. Likewise with grapes, we need to understand what’s in front of us and apply criteria and techniques to express the best of it.

Of course this sounds more simple than it actually is. The differences between each harvest are not always visible or detectable when we taste the grapes. Wine chemistry is very complex with many aspects still unknown; for this reason, experience and trials are crucial.

When we make wine from the same site over and over again, we start learning what is not visible to our eyes or detectable to our palate; this is probably what makes experience priceless.

In my case, I have the privilege of working with talented people of different philosophies. I make wine repetitively from the same sites in different terroirs using various approaches. The more I understand the more there is to learn… Realising that a Pinot Noir, Chardonnay etc, can be very different from site to site is fascinating and something that can work in a certain environment might not work in another.

Some criteria can be generalised while that invisible learning experience mentioned above is very much terroir and harvest dependent.

At the same time, we cannot escape from the laws of physics and chemistry… Everything counts in this holistic approach.

Flexibility

We obviously need a plan and also need to be prepared to change it if on picking day the situation is different to that which we originally had in our mind. This means using different tools to express our sculpture because the raw material is different. I call it “soft plan”; a plan which is flexible and fluid to adapt in a changing environment.

Part of being prepared also means trying to know in advance the actions that need to be taken. Going to taste the grapes from September onward on a weekly basis to follow the ripeness.

I’m not talking about sugar content and acidity; I’m talking about the most important aspects, the ones that we can hardly change: phenolics and flavours just to simplify. Be

comfortable with being uncomfortable

In my winemaking career, I’ve taken a few uncomfortable decisions for the sake of improvements. This involves risk management and investments. My personal way of dealing with it is by being an open book: share doubts, assess the risk and give a scenario of multiple options. This always pays back in the long run.

Playing with uncertainties is part of the game if we want to make the best we can; it’s also what makes wine unique and every harvest unforgettable.

Checking colour extraction and pips ripeness

LOOKING FOR A UK BASED INDEPENDENT CONSULTANT WINEMAKER?

I’ve been in the UK for 10 years offering my experience and I’d be happy to discuss your project.

DESKTOP www.enologie.wine

phone-alt +39 3349 769 839

ENVELOPE salvatore@enologie.wine

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Be flexible and comfortable with being uncomfortable.
S vatore Leone aki n g C o n s u tnatl
EXPRESS YOUR TERROIR
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
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English and Welsh wine in vogue

In wake of climate change, the accepted wisdom about the latitudes where the very finest sparkling wines can be grown is slowly shifting too. Still wine is also experiencing changes, and the English and Welsh market looks set to match its most well-respected rivals in terms of quality and reputation in the near future. Production volumes across the United Kingdom are way up too. Some industry leaders project a quadrupling of output within 20 years.

Big numbers and big growth attracts big names. The deserved respect for British grape growing and winemaking is drawing investment from some of the most venerable names in the wine industry. Notably, this includes some of the oldest Champagne houses, already no strangers to foreign investment. Moët & Chandon, G.H. Mumm and others have been producing sparkling wines in California since the seventies, in parallel with that region’s own rise to prominence on the global stage.

Now we are seeing similar moves on British soil. Research published in OENO One in July 2022 not only highlighted the increasing suitability

of the UK climate for the production of high-quality sparkling and still wines but also gave a detailed insight into the areas of England and Wales that will be best placed for wine production over the coming decades.

In 2015, Taittinger became the first Champagne house to plant a vineyard in the UK. Domaine Evremond, a 70-hectare estate in Kent, was purchased in partnership with UK wine distributor, Hatch Mansfield. Taking advantage of the chalk sub-soil which has the same geological structure as parts of the Champagne region, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir have been planted. The first vintage is slated for commercial release in 2024.

Domaine Evremond is named for the 17th century poet and epicurean, Charles de Saint-Evremond. He fuelled the popularity of Champagne in England when exiled from France and is buried in Poet’s Corner at Westminster Abbey. The Evremond team are building a winery on-site, but it is not due to be finished until November, so their wines are currently vinified at a temporary facility.

READ THE RESEARCH:: https://oeno-one.eu/article/view/5398

Cause Célèbre

Of course, the wine world isn’t just attractive to those already within it. We have seen celebrity collaborations popping up across the globe in recent years. From Kylie Minogue to Kurt Russell, Gary Barlow to Snoop Dogg, it’s very much in vogue to have your name – or your face – on a wine label.

One of the first, and most interesting, partnerships that paved the way for all the rest is New Zealand winemaker Invivo’s work with Irish TV presenter, Graham Norton. After hearing Graham was partial to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, they invited him to make a wine together in 2014. Invivo founders Tim Lightbourne and Rob Cameron even flew some grapes over for him to personally tread (or ‘stomp’ in the local parlance!)

From a first run of 14,000 bottles, they have now sold more than 18.5 million bottles of GN wine worldwide with Graham now assisting with the blending and owning shares in the company. This year, to celebrate the 10th vintage, they made a film of Graham tasting and blending with Tim and Rob to show that their co-star is genuinely hands-on with the process.

“Graham is so involved in the process,” co-founder Tim commented. “He personally tastes, blends and signs off on every vintage with us and he has a great palate. It’s always a blast coming together and making great wines.”

“It’s surreal thinking that our little collaboration together started out all those years ago with just one New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc,” Graham adds. “And now it’s all over the world with ten wines and spirits. I don’t just put my name to the wines, I’m happy to be so involved and I love being part of the process. It really shows we’re building the GN wine brand for the long haul.”

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La aHad l a n d
There are many reasons why English and Wales have become some of the most exciting wine regions in the world. At the top of the list must come climate change.
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD WINEMAKING
Tim Lightbourne, Graham Norton and Rob Cameron

Top of the Pops

Household names collaborating with specifically English winemakers is something new. With significant media fanfare the bassist from rock band Blur, Alex James, has launched his own sparkling wine with Laithwaites in recent months.

Alex has form when it comes to championing British produce. He is well known for making cheese on his Cotswolds farm, where he also hosts an annual music festival and celebration of food, the Big Feastival. His popular product range also includes a 5.5% oak-conditioned English cider made from a blend of bitter-sweet and bitter-sharp apples.

I will happily confess to being a longstanding Blur fan. Alex’s move into the wine sphere is not a particular surprise to me. In seemingly every photograph from the early nineties, if he wasn’t holding a bass, he was holding a glass of red wine. I’ve no doubt that his influence played some part in leading me to give wine a try.

Britpop Brut by Alex James NV is made by the Furleigh Estate in Dorset, led by Ian Edwards, who was named UK Winemaker of the Year in 2012. They have 22,000 vines, of which 15,000 are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for sparkling wines. Bacchus and Rondo make up the rest of the numbers for still production. Furleigh’s chalky Thorncombe Sand soil has produced a fruity wine that I found to be surprisingly sweet for something named Brut. However, its soft, persistent effervescence, apple and white blossom aromas and nicely balanced acidity make Britpop a thoroughly enjoyable wine. I asked Alex to tell me a little more.

How did you select a vineyard partner for this project?

It’s taken years to find the right one. Laithwate's made the introduction to Furleigh and we hit it off right away. It’s a great liquid: simple as that.

How hands-on are you with the winemaking?

One of the benefits of getting older is knowing what you’re good at. I love growing fruit but I’m not a winemaker. We have thousands of fruit trees here on the farm. I've been planting them continuously for the past twenty years. This neck of the woods is better for apples, really. Cherries do very well, too. Plums and even figs have been good this summer and we’ve just started picking the pears – best ever crop of those. I do have an audience who trust me and Big Feastival is a perfect opportunity to sample stuff, so it all seems to work ok.

What is your opinion of English wine generally?

These are absolutely the golden years of English winemaking. The past twenty years have been an incredible time for British food culture – we were still recovering from the effects of rationing in WWII until the nineties. It took a generation to recover but Britain is the most exciting place in the world for food development right now.

What

drew you to English sparkling wine?

Someone told me once that all men develop an interest in classical music and wine when they hit forty. I started early on both. I think the wine side of things was because I spent so much time in France as a teenager. The French are Grand Masters of food and beverage production and marketing but nothing has really changed there since I was a kid. In Britain, pretty much everything has changed since then.

I’m a lifelong fan of sparkling wine and English sparkling is certainly having a moment. The best of British is up there with the very best in the world. Cheers.

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Alex’s move into the wine sphere is not a particular surprise to me. In seemingly every photograph from the early nineties, if he wasn’t holding a bass, he was holding a glass of red wine.
WINEMAKING

Louis Pommery UK

The second Champagne house to set down roots on British soil was Vranken-Pommery Monopole. The innovators of brut Champagne back in 1874, they are now the biggest wine growers in Europe. I had a chat with Julien Lonneux, the CEO of Vranken-Pommery UK and International Director for Vranken-Pommery Monopole about their experience here.

How did you come to plant a vineyard in the UK?

The group has always been looking for other places in the world where we could produce sparkling wine. Champagne is our core business, but we produce sparkling wine in the South of France too, for example. Around 2015, we started to look at other wine-producing regions and visited a wine company in Hampshire. We literally all fell in love with the region, with the wine – it was already very qualitative.

We did some research on the technical parts with the winemakers and experts we have in Champagne. They did soil analysis, looked at climate and latitude etc. Next, we

visited a little town called New Alresford, 15 minutes from Winchester. We were driven around by some local agents who showed us different fields that we could buy. Eventually, we saw one little hill, three minutes from the village. It wasn’t for sale at the time but a few days later we got a call that the field owners were happy to meet and see what we could do together. That’s how it started.

How do you think English wine is viewed globally?

Obviously, it is a very, very young industry compared to any other wine-producing country. But I genuinely believe the global market and wine connoisseurs understand

the quality of the English terroir and the quality of English sparkling wine production. The quality of the product, thanks to the quality of the people on the ground, is amazing. Even the pure Champenois people, you know, born and bred in Champagne –breathing Champagne from the morning to the evening – they all have their minds blown by the quality of what’s being produced in the UK. And not only by us. The average quality is very good. We are very happy to see where this will lead us tomorrow.

Loads of vineyards have been planted in the last few years. You’ve got loads of quality people coming to the UK or English winemakers being trained abroad and

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bringing what they’ve seen in other regions but adapting it for the UK. It’s very exciting. An important thing for us as a group is that we have got that global distribution. What we’ve seen is that we didn’t have to push to sell our English sparkling wine internationally. People in the wine world do know about English wine, and English sparkling in our case. We hadn’t really thought about that at the beginning of the project. The premium feel of the English brand is very strong globally.

What have you enjoyed about this project?

Our vineyard is called Pinglestone. It was such an adventure to bring people from Champagne to buy some land in the UK and eventually be so proud of what we’ve achieved. We planted the first vines in 2017 and ended up with 40 hectares of plantings. As one of the first two Champagne houses to come to the UK, it was amazing because we felt a little bit like pioneers.

Intentionally, the team on the ground is 100% English. We wanted people who knew the terroir. We hired an amazing Vineyard Manager called Jim Bowerman with 15

years of experience. The skills of the English team and the French team [in Champagne] are very complementary. They feed back to each other daily to learn from each other so we can improve the average quality in both regions. We came very humbly, trying to discover what we needed to do to produce the best sparkling wine from the English terroir. Then we try to add to that by bringing some of the good practices we have in Champagne.

One thing we loved about coming to the UK and starting this project is that we were pretty much free to do what we wanted in terms of planting and production. It’s very, very different from the way the Champagne region is run which is very regulated. We can have a pure entrepreneurial mindset without being forced to work in a very strict structure.

What are you hoping for from this year’s harvest?

This year will be the largest harvest in kilos that we have ever produced. We’ve got twice the previous vintage in terms of fruit so it’s quite exciting to see all that fruit coming in. As the vineyard becomes older it produces more, so we were expecting this year to

be bigger but the weather conditions this year have been decent so the production is looking good. We’re just fearing the last 6 weeks before harvest because if it stays humid we might have some unfortunate issues in terms of fungal growth and stuff. But so far so good let’s say.

And looking further ahead?

We expect to produce on average roughly 200,000 bottles a year. It may be a bit more or a bit less depending on the weather conditions and what we decide to keep as a reserve. We will also grow the range, so we’ve got a few more products coming in at the end of this year, like our first English sparkling rose.

We will continue to take our products to as many countries as possible to dial up the English sparkling wine brand and project globally. We know that sales will remain very strong in the UK and that is a focus for us, but we are seeing that demand and traction for English wines around the world. We don’t have to convince sommeliers, buyers or food and beverage (F&B) people about the quality of English wines because they know that the average quality is very high.

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Representing you

Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry.

WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists. Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.

WineGB welcomes new CEO

In last month’s issue, we announced the appointment of our new CEO Nicola Bates. Nicola will officially join us on 30 October and will be on the WineGB stand at the Vineyard & Winery Show. Last month, she joined the team at the WineGB Trade & Press Tasting in London, and spoke to members of the press and industry about her journey and eagerness to join the GB wine sector.

Nicola is WineGB’s first female CEO, and she joins a substantial panel of women leading the association, with Sam Linter as the Chair and the whole executive team.

Commenting on her appointment, Nicola said: “Others may disagree, but this has to be the best job in wine. With production having

doubled over the past five years, and set again to repeat this substantial achievement, I am overjoyed to be a part of the next phase of growth for English and Welsh wines. The sector will likely soon face the challenges that come with such success, and this is where WineGB steps in with its significant role to shape the workforce, the customer experience, and the reputation. I look forward to meeting members, patrons, funders, and the wider industry to learn how WineGB can continue to be your partner and deliver for the future.”

Sam Linter, WineGB Chair, added: “I am delighted to appoint Nicola as the new CEO of WineGB. The WineGB Board were looking for a specific set of skills and experience

that are required to deliver success for the organisation and industry as we enter a new phase of maturity. During an extensive recruitment process, Nicola demonstrated the experience and diverse skillset required to run a growing trade association with a rapidly increasing external focus.

“We look forward to introducing Nicola into the UK wine industry and have an intensive immersion planned to provide a strong grounding in the strategic imperatives and intricacies of our industry and organisation.

“I look forward to seeing Nicola deliver our strategic pillars of Leadership, Member Services, Growth and Sustainability, and wish her every success in her new role. Welcome to WineGB.”

Nicola Bates
If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk
facebook-f @winegb twitter @Wine_GB INSTAGRAM @winegb LINKEDIN-IN @winegb
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Come and meet the WineGB team at the Vineyard & Winery show on 22 November at stand J11. In addition to answering your questions about the industry and WineGB membership, we are also organising the seminar programme this year. The programme will feature sessions on wine tourism and exporting in the morning, followed by topical issues in the fields of viticulture and winemaking in the afternoon. Stay tuned for the full line-up of sessions and speakers.

Our community of Partners will also be holding bookable slots at the WineGB stand during the day. If you have a pressing question related to export funding, insurance, land management, wealth management or legal issues, book a place to benefit from expert guidance. More information about these slots and how to book will be released in due course.

Wine tourism survey

We will shortly be sending out our annual Wine Tourism Survey. Designed to assess the size, impact, and development of this vital element of the GB wine industry, the survey will provide crucial data that will inform our policy in the year ahead.

Last year’s survey found that 273 vineyards & wineries were open to the public, and

assessed metrics such as visitor numbers, contribution to total income, participation in local tourism groups/clusters, and the level of staff training.

If you are not a WineGB member, but would like to be added to our mailing list to receive this survey, please contact Julia@winegb.co.uk

UPCOMING EVENTS & WORKSHOPS 16 November 2023 2pm: Reducing the carbon footprint per bottle of wine Webinar (WineGB members only) 6 December: 2023 Winter pruning workshop Course delivered by Vinescapes 22 November 2023 Vineyard & Winery Show External event run by Vineyard Magazine 2023 WineGB membership entitles you to a 10% discount on packaging supplied by WineGB Gold Patron WBC. Contact phoebe@winegb.co.uk for more information.
Photos: Tom Gold Photography
2023 OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD JOIN WINEGB phone-alt 01858 467792 paper-plane office@winegb.co.uk globe-asia www.WineGB.co.uk 55

Pick of the bunch

We take a look at our hand-harvest equipment essentials.

While we are huge advocates of the Pellenc mechanical harvesters, we recognise that not all fruit is suitable for machine harvesting. A large majority of English and Welsh wine producers will continue to harvest by hand.

Thankfully, a range of modern equipment is designed to make life as easy and efficient as possible for those hard-working grape pickers. This month, we thought giving a quick round-up of the harvest essentials we always have in stock and ready for delivery would be helpful.

Cut above the rest

One of the standout tools that has become indispensable for grape pickers is the ARS harvesting snips.

These Japanese-manufactured fruit pruners have become an instant industry favourite due to their lightweight design and extremely impressive cutting power.

Fitted with a high carbon steel blade, these snips are known for their unmatched sharpness, which allows for quick and accurate picking. Suitable for left and righthanded pickers, the ARS fruit pruners are also robust with a comfortable, ergonomic, non-slip handle.

The red 300L and HACCP blue 300L-BL models are 190mm long and just 110 grams. Both feature straight blades with a pointed tip, allowing pickers to cut right into hard-to-reach areas.

While the red 310 and HACCP blue 310-BL models are 160mm long and 90 grams, both feature curved blades with a juice drain, preventing build-up on the blade and increasing its lifespan.

For those buying in bulk, we offer a 10% discount on purchases of 10 or more snips.

Self-unloading bins

One of the most crucial aspects of harvest is logistics and planning the most effective way to get fruit from the vineyard to the winery.

Our vineyard picking trailers manufactured by Agrofer have been specifically designed for carrying bins of grapes, making easy and light work of harvest logistics.

Lengths are available for carrying three or four standard 120 x 100 bins, and growers can opt to have the trailers fitted with a roller track chassis to allow easy self-unloading of

the bins. For those who are short on staff, this means you can unload quickly without the need for a forklift and certified operator.

Both 3-bin and 4-bin models feature a clever ‘bascule’ drawbar system that gives fantastic turning in and out of tight rows. With the optional self-unloading possibility, this drawbar design also enables gentle tipping of the trailer, so the bins gently slide down the roller track to the ground and don’t cause any damage to the fruit.

Lifting the burden

Forklifts are a great asset on any farm and are especially useful around the vineyard at picking time for moving bins of grapes.

If you’re unlikely to use a forklift outside harvest season or don’t want to invest in a whole new vehicle, then the tractor-mounted forklift is the perfect solution.

Manufactured in northern Italy, the Tecnoagri Super Hydraulic Forklifts are powerful, heavy-duty machines that can easily carry heavy loads of up to 1500kg.

Easy to operate, they offer the utmost reliability and are equipped with folding forks, tilt and side shift. Growers can choose from either 1.8m or 2.20m lift height for tractors of different dimensions.

We can also manufacture a special framework to fit pallet carriers or forklifts to the front of your tractor, even if it does not have a front linkage.

Another useful addition we stock is a bin rotator attachment to forklifts allowing bins of fruit to be gently tipped into a hopper.

For more information on the harvesting equipment NP Seymour offers, please phone the office on 01580 712200 or email sales@npseymour.co.uk

56 Claire Seym ur N P S e y m ruo dtL
MACHINERY ADVICE AND TIPS
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
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Leaf removal by machine

Manual leaf removal is expensive and labour is hard to come by so a number of machines are now taking their place in vineyards. The French manufacturer Provitis supplies a top of the line quality range available across the UK from Vitifruit Equipment.

A blower generates air at a pressure of 0.6 to 1 bar which is then supplied to the Ecojet deleafer heads and expelled out at the vine leaves through rotating nozzles. The leaves are shredded by the air pressure. The working height varies from 400mm to 640mm. The machine is supplied with a blower, gearbox with pto shaft, two double rotor heads mounted on a high-clearance frame with variable width control all mounted on a frame with a two wheel axle (up/down movement 500mm, inclination -5° to 30°, width control to 500mm, hydraulic inclination correction from -6° to 40°). These technical choices place the product

in the top quality category. The primary advantages are:

◆ The blower is larger than others making it possible to use larger diameter nozzles to avoid unwanted harsh airflow resulting in skin damage .

◆ To protect the blower, the LB 260 is equipped with a cyclonic filter which removes 99% of dust and a second 25 micron PVC filter. The PVC filter is easy to clean with water.

◆ The gearbox is located at the rear of the machine and driven by a long PTO shaft thus reducing damage to the universal joints when lifting the machine at the end of rows when turning.

◆ The double rotors allow variation in working height.

◆ Both deleafer heads are equipped with break away devices to rear and side.

◆ For improved maneuverability the machine has been designed in a compact form of 1.0m long and 1.20m wide.

VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT

Helping farmers adapt for 2024 rodenticide changes

To help farmers prepare for next year’s rodenticide authorisation changes, which effectively will rule out using any secondgeneration anticoagulant (SGAR) in open areas away from buildings, the Campaign for Responsible Rodenticide Use is appealing for practical questions that need addressing.

CRRU chairman Dr Alan Buckle acknowledges the challenge facing farmers to modify their use of various integrated control measures for lasting and affordable, environmentally responsible and wildlife-aware control of rodent vermin, mainly rats in open area situations.

“Of course, doing so may not be particularly straightforward and will certainly demand sound knowledge of what next year’s changes to SGAR authorisations involve and why they are being made,” he says.

A summary of the changes can be found at tinyurl.com/yc6phzkx.

Farmers are invited to submit questions to CRRU by the end of October at thinkwildlife.org/survey. Dr Buckle emphasises that there is no such thing as a daft question, and a compilation of questions and responses will be published by CRRU in November.

“Giving credit where it’s due,” he says, “the British Pest Control

Association has recently conducted such an exercise among its members and we want to extend this to farmers.”

In addition to the detail of next year’s changes, it is also important to understand the context. An HSE-led panel is the official body to which CRRU reports for its management of the UK Rodenticide Stewardship Regime.

“An uncomfortable truth is that, seven years since inception, the regime’s environmental targets have not been met,” Dr Buckle adds. “Responsible farmers will be all too aware that many wildlife species, especially bird and mammal predators and scavengers, are widely exposed to and contaminated by SGARs.

“The widespread nature of this exposure is a grave concern and what the stewardship regime is required to reduce. The panel’s specified sentinel species, of course, whose exposure to SGARs is indicative of several others with similar ecology, is the barn owl.

“HSE has said that, unless the stewardship regime’s environmental targets are met, there will be a review of who can use SGARs, how they are used and where they can be applied. Clearly, we have been warned.”

59 David Sayell&Richard W i t
DESKTOP www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk phone-alt 01732 866567 ENVELOPE vitifruitequipment@sky.com
OCTOBER 2023 | VINEYARD
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