eat
G r
tate
ks Par
• Kansas River Tra i
l• L aw r
kansasmag.com
•S
e• enc
e City • Liberal • C a t Dodg t le D r ives
• Byways • Lindsborg • M a t i h ia Wic
nd • Be
$4.99
Kansas Sprucing brunch river’s National Spotlight
up the
state parks
worth bragging about
spring 2014 vol 70 | issue 1
•
lint Hills * Garden C ity •
mi Co
y unt
F T he
s
spring spring contents
features
24 | 5 Getaways to
Take This Year
There’s more than meets the eye in Kansas, and we’ve found five excursions that are sure to quench your craving for a weekend getaway
37 | For the City Slickers
For an old-fashioned dude-ranch experience atop the Kansas prairies,cattle drives provide an unforgettable experience
42 | Uncovering Hidden Treasures
Kansas’ state parks are some of the finest not only in the U.S., but in the world
56 |
By Golly, the Byways!
Kansas Byways provide a unique journey through some of the state’s most picturesque and storied regions
on the cover
Hit the Road
Photograph by Jason Dailey
01 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
departments
04 | Field Guide bennington reasons we love kansas The Linger Longer
hays in season Chestnut Street District
70
lawrence in season Merchants Pub & Plate
135 volland milestone of kansas
logan county Kansas! Gallery
35
06 | Letters 09 | In Season
10 | Eat 13 | Shop 14| Don’t Miss 17 | Culture
18 | Reasons We Love Kansas 22 | Spring 2014 Events
Liberal, Garden City, Dodge City five Getaways to take this year Try Southwest
gypsum hills scenic byway By golly, the byways
wichita taste of kansas Copper Oven CafĂŠ
find us on facebook: facebook.com/kansasMagazine follow us on twitter: @kansasMag
46 | Tour Kansas:
Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
From Junction City to Kansas City, the Kaw provides a free-flowing good time
50 | Kansas Gallery 59 | Taste of Kansas:
02
Kansas River Trail
Yes, Real Men Eat Quiche!
Brunch has made its comeback, and restaurants across Kansas are putting in their order
64 | Milestone of Kansas
spring 14
Kansas
pack your bags! This spring is all about getting away! So grab that duffle off the shelf, change the oil in your old truck and prepare to hit the road. Our Getaway Issue is chock full of Kansas destinations and experiences you will not find anywhere else, from Little Sweden to a city slickin’ cattle drive! As you “dog-ear” your way through this issue, let us wish you Bon Voyage!
fieldguide
editor approved
you may notice As we start another year, it was time to freshen up the magazine’s design and introduce a few new ideas. The obvious addition you’ll see is “In Season;” an entire department dedicated to the don’t-miss and must-try hidden gems in Kansas. (Yes, it’ll be back in summer.)
There is a lot to see and do this season. But take it from me, my own experiences with the following have been Grade-A, Kansan approved.
flint hills great bend lindsborg miami county southwest kansas
tell us more
We love to get your letters, ideas, gallery submissions and more. Tell us what you think of the magazine, or what Kansas attractions you’ve recently discovered. ksmagazine@ sunflowerpub.com
five
getaways to take this year There’s more than meets the eye in Kansas, and we’ve found five excursions that are sure to quench your craving for a weekend getaway. From rolling hills to native prairies, artsy bergs to the sizzling southwest, These Kansas escapes are sure to keep you exploring all year.
24 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Skip Ahead Ready for a quick getaway? Jump to page 24 for five amazing options.
double trouble • Byways • Lindsborg • M ichita ia m iC o
The Mighty Kaw kayaking down the Kaw is a summertime favorite
G r
•W
La wr
Kansas Sprucing brunch river’s National Spotlight
up the
state parks
worth bragging about
spring 2014 vol 70 | issue 1
e enc
• Kansas River Tra il •
kansasmag.com
ks Par
$4.99
tate
spring 2014
City •
Grand Central Hotel beautiful accommodations in the heart of the Flint Hills
•S
Magazine
10 Writers 6 Photographers 6 Gallery Photographers
Hills * Garden
ity • Liberal • C attle Dr ives
Kansas!
F lint
eC Dodg
04
KANSAS! magazine is nothing without its fantastic group of contributors. This season we have:
T he
nd • Be
Bravo!
y• unt
eat
When Shooting our cover, we had not one, but two dogs ready for the open road. Meet Roxie, the goofy golden retriever and Cap’n Pip the stoic American Bulldog. These two jumped in and out of shots and chased a few cars, but finally stood still.
Somerset Wine Trail delicious and beautiful
Road trip! Thanks to Sarah Casto and her husband Matthew Del Vecchio for being our cover models. And a tip of the hat to Lance Adams and his old truck Peewee.
Kansas Capitol Tour an absolutely fascinating history lesson
Downtown Hays good eats, good shops -Katy Ibsen
KANSAS!
spring 2014 Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism Jennifer T. Haugh editor
Sam Brownback governor
Robin Jennison
KDWPT Secretary
www.sunflowerpub.com lawrence, kansas
design & production
KANSAS VOICES WRITING CONTEST
Like to write?
Enter the Kansas Voices Contest by sending in your short story or poetry to Winfield Arts & Humanities, 700 Gary, Winfield every year by March 15th. Entry fee $3 per story or poem.
Katy Ibsen
managing editor
Shelly Bryant
Designer/art director
Jason Dailey
The Arts Council provides a dinner and reading on the first Saturday in May for all the winners with $1,000 in prizes being awarded in adult and youth categories.
photographer
Midland Railway Historical Association Bert Hull
general manager
1515 W. High Street Baldwin City, KS 66006-0005 Phone (913) 721-1211 Depot (785) 594-6982 www.midlandrailway.org
KANSAS! (ISSN 0022-8435) is published quarterly by the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200 Topeka, KS 66612; (785) 296-3479; TTY Hearing Impaired: (785) 296-3487. Periodical postage paid at Topeka, KS, and at additional mailing offices. Newsstand price $4.99 per issue; subscription price $18 per year; international subscription price $22 per year. All prices include all applicable sales tax. Please address subscription inquiries to: Toll-free: (800) 678-6424 KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146 e-mail: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com Website: www.KansasMag.com POSTMASTER: Send address change to: KANSAS! P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146.
Railway operates excursion ne originally constructed in rides feature an over 20rip from Baldwin City via mail all editorial inquiries to: Kansas” to Ottawa Please Junction, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612 eling through scenic Eastern e-mail: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com land and woods via vintage The articles and photographs that appear in KANSAS! pment. The Midland Railway magazine may not be broadcast, published or otherwise reproduced without the express written consent of ely volunteer-staffed, non-profi t 501c3, common carrier Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism or the erated to preserve and display transportation history as an appropriate copyright owner. Unauthorized use is prohibited. Additional restrictions may apply. demonstration railroad. Join us for a train ride – bring the y! We are in easy reach of Kansas City, Overland Park, awa and Lawrence, Topeka, and nearby communities. ormal excurions trains June-October every year.
Underwritten by Winfield Convention and Tourism
For more information, visit
www.winfieldarts.com or call 620-221-2161
Special Events Include; Easter Bunny Train Thomas the Tank Engine Haunted Halloween Train Santa Express
Midland Railway Historical Association Join us for a train ride -bring the whole family! Normal excursioN traiNs Midland Railway Historical JuNe Association - october
special events include:
Operations
1515 W. High Street Baldwin City, 66006-0005 • RailKSFest Phone (913)Halloween 721-1211 Train • Haunted Depot (785) • Santa594-6982 Express www.midlandrailway.org
• Easter Bunny Train
The Midland Railway operates excursion trains on a line originally constructed in 1867. Train rides feature an over 20-
05
Kansas!
1515 High St. Baldwin City, KS Phone (913)Magazine 721-1211 Depot (785) spring 594-6982 2014 www.midlandrailway.org
Special Events Include; Easter Bunny Train
letters To the Editor,
from the editor
I just read the Winter 2013 issue of KANSAS! This is the best issue ever and makes me want to visit Matfield Green and Shawnee Town 1929. Good Job! James M. AuBuchon
an unforgettable
kansasmag.com
menu
of fair food
3 Reasons delicious the most
to eat in Kansas
fo e d i od tio n
issue yet
fall 2013 vol 69 | issue 3
Jennifer, Katy and all,
must try
$4.99
A
Sunflowers celebrating
Midwestern.” ably homerun story
ng
Ge am dit i o ne
$4.99
12junking EMBARK good eats REASONS TO GO
on Freedom’s Frontier
@ FLUSH PICNIC
le mo
nm ering u e pi e?
$4.99
with logan mize
winter 2013 vol 69 | issue 4
alp
tailgate fare
kansasmag.com
winning
SUMMER 2013 VOL 69 | ISSUE 2
l that my poetry is “ I f ee p
3
casinos delicious
KANSASMAG.COM
$4.99
peo e d i ple tio n
artists discover the
i av cr
vol 69 | issue 1 kansasmag.com
TSN AR TIO EDI
KM13w.indd 1
10/15/13 10:45 AM
I’ve picked up several of the last issues of KANSAS! Magazine, and like Bill Nelligan wrote in his letter to the editor, I, too am impressed with the quality of the magazine and appreciate all of the work that goes in to creating such a quality publication.
A new year and a new issue! Spring always brings in the “new,” and you might notice a bit of “sprucing up” this season. Since you’ve been trying to keep warm from the bite of winter, you may be ready to set out on a quick adventure just to shake the dust off. This season we’ve lined up several getaways for you to road-test. (Psst…. Be sure to tell us about your findings on our Facebook page.) If you’re feeling adventurous, consider the wild experience of a cattle drive. If you prefer to be at one with nature—but with a dash of modern amenities—take a visit to one of our beautiful state parks. If you’re looking for a splash of fun, maybe taking a float down the Kansas River Trail will spark your interest. Best of all, we have five unforgettable weekend getaways that will reveal unique communities, a dash of art, agritourism, history and more. No matter where your inquisitiveness leads you, this spring we’ve got a little something for everyone. Thanks for reading.
Jennifer Diana Lambdin Meyer
found on facebook Got a fabulous calendar and fantastic magazine in the mail! Whoot whoot! TinaRea Enns Scott
Love, love, love my KANSAS! calendar! Karen Cox Wohlwend
send your letters to: Editor, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612 or e-mail ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com
06 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
spring 2014
in season
Photograph: Jason Dailey
10 eat / 13 shop / 14 don’t miss / 17 culture
Welcome to KANSAS! magazine’s “In Season.” Here we explore what’s new and buzzing about the state—from new restaurants and shopping to cultural happenings and don’t-miss events and attractions. And this season, we have an exclusive interview with Jon Niccum, Kansas-based author of The Worst Gig, a compilation of wild stories from bands on the road.
09 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
in season
eat
written by Gloria Gale
gas·tro·pub
noun, British origins Define: a pub that specializes in serving high-quality food.
on the menu
Rabbit-Apple Sausage Served with tempura sweet potatoes, drunken cherries and rosemary aioli.
Merchants Pub & Plate merchantsonmass.com Scallops
Bank Statement
Handpicked scallops seared and served with crispy artichokes, oyster mushrooms, local squash and a truffle crema.
It’s no secret that Lawrence has a happening downtown—trendy, iconic and bustling—and Merchants Pub & Plate is one more addition. Named after Merchants National Bank, which once stood at this site, the new restaurant has a mouthwatering farm-to-table menu—designed by co-owners T.K. Peterson (formerly chef at the Oread Hotel) and Philip Wilson—filled with plate-pleasers and a slew of porters, ales, ryes and stouts. The pair chose the name to reflect the local merchants from whom the majority of their ingredients are sourced. “What Merchants has created is a unique local dining experience incorporating the historic qualities of the former bank tenant as well as local, fresh food in Lawrence’s first gastropub,” says Emily Peterson, marketing manager. “We like to think the food and our beers are thoughtfully crafted. If we can procure locally sourced, sustainable ingredients, it’s better for everyone.”
10 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Walnuts, blood orange, focaccia crouton, local micro greens and creamy gorgonzola dressing.
KANSAS! magazine loves doughnuts. Here’s our handy guide to finding sweet delights near you. The Donut Whole The Donut Whole prides itself as Wichita’s one-stop shop for more than 40 varieties of doughnuts. Sip coffee or boba tea, listen to live music and admire the featured local art.
donutwhole.com
Varsity Donuts Fat and fluffy, the offerings at Varsity Donuts in Manhattan’s Aggieville are sure to hit your sweet spot! This little shop eagerly touts a full-on menu of temptations including Maple Bacon, Lemon Drop or Pistachio.
Baker’s Dozen D is for delectable at Topeka’s Baker’s Dozen donuts. A mom-and-pop venture, their PBJ is, in one customer’s words, “enough to bring about world peace.” Find Baker’s Dozen on Facebook.
varsitydonuts.blog. com
(785) 272-2400
Druber’s Donut Shop Sugar and spice; you bet it’s nice. At Newton’s own Druber’s Donut Shop, the doughnuts are so good, every bite brings a sense of nostalgia. Where else does a glazed accompanied by a little carton of ice-cold chocolate milk conjure up childhood memories?
drubersdonutskansas.com
Hurtz Donut Lawrence’s Hurtz Donut rises above the fray. Visit the Lawrence Farmers’ Market to find the gourmet rounds. Simply legendary! Find Hurtz Donut on Facebook.
Photographs: Jason Dailey (5), Cathy mores
Holes with a twist
roasted beet salad
The
barn bed & bReakfasT inn
visit with other guests or your friends in one of our three living rooms or over a great evening meal.
Great for family reunion, quiltinG retreats and scrap bookinG. a 21 room bed & breakfast inn situated in the gentle rolling hills of ne kansas.
We specialize in retreats and helping you break up your daily routine so you can get that
much needed R&R.
For reservations call (785) 945-3225 14910 Blue Mound Rd. Valley Falls, Ks 66088 www.thebarnbb.com thebarn@embarqmail.com
written by Kimberly Winter Stern
shop
in season
Great Museum Gift Shops:
Hidden Gems
In museum gift shops, there is no such thing as an ordinary find. That’s because, by nature, they hold one-ofa-kind, imaginative gems that exemplify good design and good taste, and innovative, fun, and functional gifts.
A few of our favorites include: Nerman Museum, Overland Park nermanmuseum.org
Flint Hills Discovery Center, Manhattan flinthillsdiscovery.org The Prairie Museum of Art and History, Colby prairiemuseum.org
Photographs (From top): Thomas Zimmerman of Crossroads Photography, Courtesy of stores and manufacturer.
The Cosmosphere, Hutchinson cosmo.org
kick up your heels
These boots are made for walking … with plenty of attitude this spring. Nigro’s Western Store, Kansas City Made by craftsmen in Leon, Mexico, these Cognac Laser Overlay Corral Boots are perfect for cowgirls wanting to show off their wild side. Make a modern, bold statement with just the right measure of cha-cha-cha sophistication. nigroswesternstore.com Sheplers, Wichita Any cowboy will appreciate the stunning Lucchesse Handcrafted 1883 Hornback Caiman cowboy boot has you covered. Dress to impress, or pull on your old Wranglers—this luxurious squaretoed boot works for any occasion. sheplers.com Roy Frey Western Lifestyles, Topeka This sassy ladies’ Espresso Cassidy Tony Lama boot has character to spare: a beautiful western design from the 100% Vaquero Collection features chocolate cross-stitch embroidery against a background of beige, brown and turquoise. Tuck jeans into them to show off the fancy tops. royfreywestern.com
High-Style Off the Beaten Track Expect the unexpected when you venture off Interstate 70 to explore the hip, acclaimed Chestnut Street District, which spans a bustling, revitalized Main Street in Hays. Shopping, dining and arts abound in this meticulously restored downtown area. C.S. Post & Co. bills itself as a general store and peddles a well-curated collection of home accessories, lighting, furniture and must-haves for the bed and bath. The adorable Bella Luna boutique brims with fashionable duds for the pint-size set; the historical architectural ambiance and vibrant energy is guaranteed to sweep you off your feet. Select the perfect new kitchen gadget or gift for a bride-to-be at the Paisley Pear before lunching at the quaint Paisley Pear Café. Or enjoy award-winning beer and delicious home-cooked food at Gella’s Diner and Lb. Brewing Co., then grab a homemade cupcake to satisfy your sweet tooth at Pam’s Bakery Shop. Browse the latest exhibit at the Hays Arts Center Gallery, peruse fine art at Dennis Schiel Studio and Gallery, or visit the Artists at Work Studio located in one of downtown Hays’ oldest original buildings— an 1874 native limestone rock beauty. However you decide to spend the day in the Chestnut Street District, one thing is guaranteed: This dazzling treasure trove of unique shops and restaurants will be on your Top 10 list of things to do in Kansas. chestnutstreetdistrict.com
13
Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
don’t miss
written by Marci Penner
know u o y id
?
d
in season
Cuba Rocks One small town in Kansas rocks to raise funds. The town of Cuba hosts two rocking chairs that are in motion 24 hours a day for seven days, with accompanying events at the Cuba Community Hall. More than $24,000 is typically raised for community improvements in this town of 200. Rock along March 16-22.
cubacashstore.com
April 11-12
Relief Sale
quick hits
Pick from the product, the purpose or the teamwork as to what makes this a “Don’t Miss” event, but one thing is sure: Every dollar raised during the 46th annual Kansas Mennonite Relief Sale will go toward relief efforts in more than 55 countries. It’s a thing of beauty to see people from more than 65 Mennonite, Brethren in Christ and Amish churches come together on the Hutchinson fairgrounds to be the workers, and often buyers, in this giant sale, April 11-12, 2014. During the year, women’s groups meet regularly to piece together artful blankets. Others prepare needlework, woodwork or crafts, or grow seeds, or fix up an antique car or tractor to donate. More than 23 subcommittees produce the “Feeding the Multitude” meal featuring German-Russian and Swiss Mennonite traditional recipes like verenika, zwiebach, cherry and plum moos, borscht, Russian pancakes, New Year’s cookies, bohne beroggi and poppy seed rolls (to name a few). The most heartwarming event is the auction of the 200 quilts. A packed house of quilters and buyers get in rhythm with auctioneers and callers. Applause follows each sale and, in the end, nearly $100,000 is raised—which is just a portion of the typical $225,000-$500,000 grand total from the overall sale. kansas.mccsale.org
one
14 Kansas!
Engage with history at the 24th annual Lincoln Reenactment Weekend in Lincoln, sporting look-alikes of the Great Emancipator. February 14-15.
spring 2014
villagelines.com
Magazine
North American shorebirds galore stop at Cheyenne Bottoms, Barton County, in the spring. ksoutdoors.com
two April tulips are plentiful and resplendent in Topeka! Start at Ted Ensley Botanical Gardens at Lake Shawnee. visittopeka.com
three
Photograph: Shutterstock
Kansas Mennonite
written by Nathan Pettengill
culture
in season
It’s waiting for you … mark your calendar
Concert reservations Tickets for the state’s most popular annual classical musical concert, “Symphony in the Flint Hills,” go on sale as of April 5. Always a sold-out performance, this year’s open-air event features the Kansas City Symphony and the backdrop of the Flint Hills at the Rosalia Ranch in Butler County. Tickets can be purchased at KCsymphony.org, with additional information at
What doesn’t kill your tour
only makes it stronger
symphonyintheflinthills.org.
Photograph: Jason Dailey
Anniversaries: two great Kansans Central Kansas honors two native sons this year. In Abilene, the Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum opens a special exhibit dedicated to the 70th anniversary of D-Day and Eisenhower’s role as the Allied military architect of the liberation of France. In Hutchinson, the county arts commission prepares a series of events to honor the 100th birthday of poet William Stafford and celebrate his legacy to literature. The two Kansans represent very different approaches to the strife that engulfed their generation. For more information, see: eisenhower. archives.gov and hrah.org.
“It just doesn’t matter the level of fame you are at. You are absolutely not bulletproof to things going wrong,” says Lawrence-based author Jon Niccum. And, oh, how wrong things go in Niccum’s The Worst Gig—first-person accounts of rampaging fans, pushy promoters, freak illnesses and major mishaps for bands on the road. Niccum, a contributor to The Kansas City Star and veteran entertainment writer, draws on years of interviews with musicians, including Def Leppard, Sex Pistols, Ted Nugent and even Kansas (whose story provides a nightmarishly enduring image of a show in a one-star nudist colony). Their anecdotes build, compounding misery and ill fate, until you realize that Niccum, himself a sometimes-travelling musician, has craftily assembled a collection of love stories to the magic of live musical performances. His retold tales of woe and resilience have inspired other musicians to contribute additional anecdotes since the book’s release. Some are featured on the book’s website and others are set for a planned second volume. worstgig.com
The scaffolding is down and the Kansas Capitol in Topeka is once again resplendent and fully accessible. Volunteers and staff of the Kansas State Capitol Historical Tour have resumed their popular Dome tours that take groups to the very top exterior. Murals—including John Steuart Curry’s famous Tragic Prelude depicting John Brown and the looming destruction of the impending Civil War—are now gleaming in the hallways. And while the tallest and brightest works of art are important, teams of architects, engineers, artisans and historians worked on hundreds of small details throughout the multi-year, $300 million restoration, including timeperiod light fixtures and authentic door handles to ensure accuracy and respect for what was built to be the people’s monument of state democracy. It is a cultural treasure with open doors; reserve your tour spot through the Kansas Historical Society at kshs.
org/p/kansas-state-capitolhistoric-tours/11711.
17 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
reasons
we love kansas written by Gloria Gale We search near and far to find even more reasons to love our Sunflower State. Share your Reasons We Love Kansas (see page 21).
1
Couch? Ouch!
Up and out—outside that is. “O.K. Kids is a statewide recreational program that has opened a door and invited youth to experience the traditional outdoor activities Kansas has to offer,” says Lynn Gentine, director of development for the program sponsored by the Kansas Wildscape Foundation. As part of the state’s initiative to get kids involved in an active recreational lifestyle, O.K. Kids revitalizes good old-fashioned (along with some newfangled) activities, including: fishing derbies and clinics, horseshoes, hiking, scavenger hunts, canoeing, sack races, archery and bird-watching at various sites around the state. kansaswildscape.org
18 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
2
where’s the beef?
If you ask members of the Picolet family, proprietors of Oatie Beef, they’ll tell you the beef is doing mighty fine moseying around the family’s 1,000-acre ranch in Dwight. The Picolet family is grinning because they have a special bond with their animals that they attribute to the cattle’s diet. “We feed our cattle oats, which isn’t typical for most ranched cattle,” says Lacey Haskett. “The idea came from a commercial my father saw…. [He] decided if oats make people healthier, it should do the same for our cows.” When the beef was tested by K-State/Ward Labs, the results indicated the Picolet beef had less fat and cholesterol than grass- or grain-fed beef. “If our cows are happy, we’re happy,” says Haskett. Oatiebeef.com
36
reasons
we love kansas
art matters
The Mulvane Art Museum is one of the oldest art museums west of the Mississippi. Established on the campus of Topeka’s Washburn University in 1924, the museum celebrates its 90th birthday this year. The museum touts a collection of more than 4,000 objects from around the world. Along with extensive collections of two- and three-dimensional art, the museum hosts new exhibitions, an ArtLab and educational programming for the public. “Every summer we produce the Mulvane Art Fair, a juried show located on the university campus open to artists from around the country,” says Connie Gibbons, director of the museum. washburn.edu/mulvane
Photographs (Clockwise from left): Shutterstock, Courtesy of Mulvane Museum, Tom mahoney
hip hop
Skip, hop or simply stroll along what is said to be the longest stretch of sidewalk connecting two Kansas communities: Franklin and Arma. The federally funded project linking these rural mining towns is 1.7 miles long and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Running adjacent to the Frontier Military Scenic Byway, the sidewalk, completed in 1937, appeared in the Guinness Book of World Records and purportedly in Life magazine as the longest sidewalk stretching between two towns. franklinkansas.com/sidewalkinfo.html
5
“Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you.” - Frank Lloyd Wright
4
stop and stay awhile The Midland Railroad Hotel in Wilson is one of the best-kept secrets in Kansas. Guests can enjoy staying at this historic limestone hotel, which also features two unique dining experiences, at the Drummer’s Dining Hall or the Sample Room Tavern. If you go, may we suggest you order the ribs. midlandrailroadhotel.com
Kansas Outdoors
The 2014 edition of Kansas Outdoors is now available. Visit your nearest Travel Information Center or visitors’ center to get your hands on this extensive publication celebrating our beautiful outdoors. TravelKS.org
official
gu id e
ors o d t u o a s n s k a
2014
e, love natur “Study e, Stay cloSel natur ure. It wIl at to n faIl you.” never - Frank
LLoyd
Wright
ment tourism depart kansas fe, parks and dli of wil
19 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
reasons
7
we love kansas
Touchdown
The Kansas Shrine Bowl is an All-Star charity event showcasing 68 of the top Kansas high school senior football players, while raising funds for Shriners Hospitals for Children. The 2014 game will be held on July 26 at Carnie Smith Stadium on Pittsburg State University’s campus (kickoff is at 7 p.m.). This charitable event will also feature 100 Kansas high school cheerleaders, 60 of the top Kansas high school cross-country runners, and 250 Kansas All-State band members. The game, supported by the five Kansas Shrine Temples, is sure to entertain spectators! (800) 530-5524 –Sarah Van Petten
take a bow
9 20 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
14 MPH
Dodge City is the windiest city in the United States, with an average wind speed of 14 miles per hour! See our story featuring Dodge City on page 34.
8
Kansas grows more than wheat. When it comes to celebrities, there’s a bumper crop, from the late Pulitzer-winning playwright William Inge to author, television host and producer Bill Kurtis. The spotlight shines on Independence’s new Kansas Celebrity Hall of Fame, with displays and a roster of special events illuminating famous folks from all over Kansas who have made positive contributions in arts, entertainment, news and other fields. Stop by KCHF, located in the former JC Penney building, and check out your favorite homegrown celebrity. kansascelebrityhalloffame.com
Photographs (Clockwise from left): Courtesy of the Shrine Bowl, by audrey wagner courtesy of the Linger Longer
10
11one
reasons
we love kansas
The Linger Longer
Some old-fashioned diners beg for you to sit back and relax; one prime example is The Linger Longer in Bennington. Amidst stylish accouterments, this vintage soda fountain offers all the classics, including the Green River. thelingerlonger.com
Worth 1,000 words
thousand Pittsburg’s The Morning Sun takes the opportunity every year to chronicle the outstanding images from the past 12 months in a gallery unlike any other. The Sun’s editors and readers find great inspiration in their selections—as will you. morningsun.net/photos
Reasons
We Love Kansas
12
tea to tailgate
At over 150 years old, it’s safe to say Kansas State University has seen its fair share of social gatherings, and now, so can you. With the release of Teatime to Tailgates: 150 Years at the K-State Table, Wildcat fans can read all about the university’s food heritage. Recipes included! he.k-state.edu/150/teatime
Send your “Reasons We Love Kansas” to ksreasons@sunflowerpub.com or to Reasons, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612.
21 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
events kansas spring
Lecompton’s Bleeding Kansas 2014 Program Series
Hidden Art Locked Away
You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown
Leavenworth
Auburn
February 7-8
February 21-22, 27-28, March 1-2
Lecompton January 26-February 23 A weekly series of Sunday afternoon lectures and debates by authors, historians and reenactors on Kansas as a free or pro-slave Kansas before the US Civil War. Suggested donation of $3. Begins at 2 p.m. kshs.org/constitution_hall
SculptureTour Salina
Artwork produced by inmates of the U.S. Penitentiary and the U.S. Disciplinary Barracks at Fort Leavenworth. Preview Friday 4-8 p.m., and the sale is Saturday 9 a.m.-5 p.m. (913) 682-4459
Love Letters McPherson
Salina
February 13-15
Through April
Love Letters is a play by A. R. Gurney that centers on two characters, Melissa Gardner and Andrew Makepeace Ladd III. Performed at Brown Auditorium, McPherson College. Begins at 7:30 p.m. mcpherson.edu
SculptureTour Salina is an outdoor exhibit of sculptures that changes each year. Artists from across the country submit work each year to be considered by a jury for the new exhibition. sculpturetoursalina.com
Auburn Community Theater presents You’re a Good Man, Charlie Brown, the fun-filled musical starring the Peanuts cartoon characters. Tickets are $10. Dates and times vary. act-ks.org
Wizard of Oz Audiobody Hutchinson Parsons February 13-16 February 25
SALT SAFARI ADVENTURE HIKE
The Family Community Theatre presents its Silver Celebration Season, celebrating 25 years with The Wizard of Oz. Dates and times vary. familycommunitytheater.com
Hutchinson dates vary New to Strataca, the Salt Safari Adventure Hike is a three-hour journey 650 feet below the earth. A limited group of hikers will trek miles of tunnels through the rugged and unimproved area of the mine. Registration required. underkansas.org
The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee
Audiobody will surprise and amaze audiences with the sights and sounds of modern-day technology. Ticket prices vary. Begins at 7 p.m. parsonsconcerts.com
Parade of Quilts
Junction City
Yoder
February 14-16
March 1-31
This Junction City Little Theater production is a hilarious tale. The competition is intense; the words are hilarious. Let the spelling begin! Times vary. Tickets required. jclt.info
Soak in the quilting tradition of the Amish community of Yoder during their 14th annual Parade of Quilts. Free admission. yoderks.com
22 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
find more events at travelks.com
events kansas spring
Tallgrass Film Festival Road Show
Kansas Antique Bottle and Postcard Show
Junction City Hutchinson March 7 April 6 The Tallgrass Road Show is a mobile outreach program that showcases a selection of short films from previous Tallgrass Film Festivals across the state of Kansas. Admission is $5, begins at 7:30 p.m. jcoperahouse.org
Ida Stover Eisenhower Quilt Show
Annual Kansas Antique Bottle and Postcard Show takes place at the Sunflower South Building on the Kansas State Fairgrounds. Bring in your old bottles, postcards and tokens for free appraisals. Free admission. Begins at 9 a.m. (620) 728-8304
Abilene
WordFest Writers Conference
March 29-30 The Salina Symphony presents Beauty and the Beast, a symphonic musical, in partnership with the Salina Community Theatre and Kansas Wesleyan University. Tickets, dates and times vary. salinasymphony.org
April 21-26 The National Greyhound Association (NGA) holds spring and fall meets so enthusiasts can interact and search for the next champion racer. greyhoundhalloffame.com
Downs
McPherson
April 25-26
April 11-12
Headlining the 21st anniversary of the Kansas Storytelling Festival is Kevin Kling—popular commentator on NPR’s All Things Considered, author, playwright, and teller of tales. Admission, dates and times vary. kansasstorytelling.com
Beauty and the Beast Salina
Abilene
Kansas Storytelling Festival
March 17-30 More than 80 quilts on display with wonderful colors and designs. Admission charged. Begins at 9 a.m. heritagecenterdk.com
NGA Spring Meet
The McPherson Museum and the writers group it sponsors bring published authors to the museum for a weekend writers’ conference featuring workshop sessions. mcphersonmuseum.com
Vettes & Harleys at the Hutchinson Zoo Eisenhower Marathon Hutchinson Abilene April 26-27 April 12
2014 Central Kansas Spring Expo Great Bend
Illustrations: Shutterstock
March 29-30 The Great Bend Spring Expo is an excellent opportunity for local businesses to showcase the services they provide and offer great promotions! centralkansasexpo.com
Register to run part of the Historical Chisholm Trail in the hometown of the 34th president, Dwight D. Eisenhower. There will be a marathon, a half marathon, a 10K, a 5K and a community walk. Begins at 7 a.m., registration required. eisenhowermarathon.com
Shine up your Vettes and Harleys for this spectacular two-day car and motorcycle show at the Hutchinson Zoo. Begins at 10 a.m. Suggested donation of $5. hutchgov.com/zoo
23 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
flint hills great bend lindsborg miami county southwest kansas
five
getaways to take this year There’s more than meets the eye in Kansas, and we’ve found five excursions that are sure to quench your craving for a weekend getaway. From rolling hills to native prairies, artsy bergs to the sizzling southwest, These Kansas escapes are sure to keep you exploring all year.
24 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Lindsborg: Linger over art and culture
Written by Cecilia Harris
In the heart of Kansas lies a community so rich in Scandinavian culture it’s been dubbed “Little Sweden, U.S.A.” A visit to Lindsborg feels like you’ve escaped to another country. As you walk the brick streets, you’ll become immersed in Swedish culture and traditions, including a passion for the arts. A Swedish decorative style of painting called Kurbits adorns business buildings bearing traditional Swedish names, while whimsical Dala horse statues prance on porches and above businesses. Shirley Malm, a local folk artist, will hand-paint your personal Dala horse at Hemslöjd, a Dala horse factory that is the largest producer of Dala horses in the United States. Malm is one of more than 60 artists who call Lindsborg home and have set up shop on Main Street. Marvel at Elizabeth Walker as she works the loom, creating fabrics that are fashioned into beautiful apparel inside Elizabeth’s Handwoven Artwear. See Mark and Nancy Galloway roast artisan-forged coffee at Blacksmith Coffee Roastery, located inside a century-old building that once housed the town’s blacksmith shop; and watch Kathy Richardson create IBIS Woman Jewelry, using beads and metals from throughout the world, inside Small
26 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
servings of waffles in March, and the World Gallery, which she runs with Midsummer’s Festival, on the third her husband, renowned National Saturday in June, marks the longest Geographic photographer and native day of the year with the raising of the Kansan Jim Richardson. Midsummer Pole. The community’s A must-see is the Birger Sandzén largest celebration, Svensk Memorial Gallery, displaying the work Hyllningsfest, which occurs in October of the esteemed Kansas artist known for landscapes featuring vibrant colors of odd-numbered years, features a smörgåsbord of Scandinavian foods and bold brushwork. as well as folk dancing, music and art. Equally inspiring is the Red Barn Lucia Fest, on the second Saturday in Studio, the former working studio of December, includes folk dancing, an professional artist and craftsman Lester account of the legend of St. Lucia, and Raymer—whose work, often from the crowning of Lucia. recycled materials, remains on display. The community is also well known “At the Red Barn Studio, they have for the longest continual performance an artist-in-residence very frequently in the United States—over 130 years— throughout the year, and you can not of Handel’s Messiah only go in and watch during the Easter season. them work but you can In addition, Lindsborg also take classes from claims the longestthem,” says Holly Lofton, running outdoor theater director of the Lindsborg Be sure to consider picking in Kansas, with Broadway Convention and Visitors up original works of art, RFD performing every Bureau. “It’s a fabulous Scandinavian souvenirs, and summer in Swensson way to interact with the other unique gift and home Park for more than 50 artist.” items when visiting Lindsborg. years. Art isn’t the only “The Good Merchant is a Arts, Swedish attraction—food is an popular new store with a lot heritage, festivals and important part of the of fun, funky home décor and a quaint downtown all Swedish holidays and eclectic gifts, and a fabulous add to what Lindsborg’s festivals in Lindsborg. new business called Connected founding fathers had Våffeldagen, or offers a wide variety of envisioned: a welcoming International Waffle fair-trade items from around community of cultural Day, is celebrated with the world,” says Holly Lofton, indulgence. an entire day of fluffy director of the Lindsborg Convention and Visitors Bureau.
Deck the walls
thegoodmerchant.net
Photographs from left: Doug Stremel, Courtesy of the Lindsborg CVB, Doug Stremel, Lindsborg CVB
Art, authentic cuisine and festivals celebrate Swedish heritage
Skål! (Cheers!)
Grab a beer at the Öl Stuga, the favorite watering hole of Bethany College students, visiting alumnae and locals. Öl Stuga, which translates to “beer cottage,” offers a full-service bar along with a menu of American and Swedish fare. Owner Mark Lysell, who is proud to say he’s a real Viking, can be found behind the vintage bar or mingling with customers, some of whose photographs of past good times adorn tabletops. “In the early evening it’s a place where locals and families gather,” he says of his establishment. “Later at night it certainly becomes a college atmosphere.” In a Good Morning America national contest to find the best college town hangout offering great food and a unique atmosphere, the Öl Stuga was a finalist, with its Brent Nelson Sandwich, a concoction Lysell created to honor a regular customer.
link to
Lindsborg
Visit Lindsborg lindsborgcity.org Hemslöjd hemslojd.com Elizabeth’s Handwoven Artwear hand-woven.net Blacksmith Coffee Roastery blacksmithcoffee.com Small World Gallery smallworldgallery.net Birger Sandzén Memorial Gallery sandzen.org Red Barn Studio lesterraymer.org Events lindsborgcity.org Öl Stuga facebook.com/olstuga
Where to stay
Where to eat
afternoon drive
Rest peacefully inside a room filled with furniture imported from Sweden at The Swedish Country Inn, where the atmosphere is reminiscent of a small European countryside inn. “The nice thing about the Inn is that we are downtown,” says owner Becky Anderson. “You can walk the short distance to the galleries and shops.” During your stay, consider the recently redecorated Stockholm Room, which is adorned with the traditional blue and yellow of the Swedish flag. In the morning, a Swedish buffet breakfast includes a Swedish Tea Ring, waffles with lingonberries, Swedish meatballs, Knackebrod (a crisp bread), pickled herring, porridge, cheese and fruit. swedishcountryinn.com
Sample authentic Swedish cuisine at the Swedish Crown Restaurant, a local icon. With a menu featuring Swedish pancakes, Swedish meatballs, rye bread and ostkaka topped with lingonberries, it’s hard to leave hungry. “We give you some of the flavors of Sweden with our smoked salmon appetizer and the Swedish Meatballs dinner,” says executive chef and owner Shana Everhart. “Also, we do fresh fish specials on the weekend.” Perfect for a date night, the restaurant has a more intimate section for dining. “The Vasa Club has a cozy atmosphere that’s great for couples,” Everhart says. “Come and check out Lindsborg and our taste of Sweden.” theswedishcrown.com
Get back to nature by driving up the winding road to the top of nearby Coronado Heights. This historic sightseeing destination offers amazing views of the Smoky Hill River valley. You’ll find a unique stone castle and picnic tables built through the Works Progress Administration in the 1930s. Pack a picnic lunch to fully experience what the Kansas Sampler Foundation considers one of the 8 Wonders of Kansas Geography. Tour the hiking and biking trails, enjoy the native wildflowers and take advantage of the breezes, which are perfect for kite-flying. “The view is amazing. You can see for miles and miles,” says Holly Lofton. “It’s a great place to watch the sun set or to watch the stars at night.”
The Swedish Country Inn swedishcountryinn.com Swedish Crown Restaurant theswedishcrown.com Coronado Heights lindsborghistory.org
27 Lindsborg
Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Where to stay
Where to eat
don’t miss
link to
miami co.
Nestled on six lush acres in Somerset on the Somerset Wine Trail, Casa Somerset is a Tuscan-inspired bed-andbreakfast that blends Old World hospitality with gourmet food and award-winning Kansas wines. Innkeeper and chef Michael Hursey pampers guests with delicious breakfasts and a charming ambiance that includes beautifully appointed rooms, a lake perfect for strolling at sunset with a glass of wine from the nearby vineyards, and a wraparound veranda. casasomerset.com
Barbecue in an airport? You betcha—and this apple and cherry wood-smoked menu at We B Smokin’ offers rib-sticking delights, including signature baby back ribs— it is worth the sticky fingers that are part-and-parcel of good ‘cue. Breakfast is served, too, including homemade biscuits and gravy, honest-to-goodness grits, French toast, omelets and fluffy short stacks. You’ll want to become a frequent flyer at this atmospheric restaurant. websmokin.com
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the John Brown Museum State Historic Site encompasses an area known for the infamous 1856 Battle of Osawatomie, where abolitionist Brown and his group defended the Miami County town against an attack by proslavery militiamen. On the site is the Adair Cabin, built by peaceful abolitionist Rev. Samuel Adair and his wife, Florella. The cabin was later used by Florella’s half brother, John Brown, as his informal headquarters in the war against slavery in Kansas. kshs.org
Louisburg Cider Mill louisburgcidermill.com Cedar Cove Feline Conservatory and Education Center saveoursiberians.org Hillsdale Lake ksoutdoors.com/State-Parks/ Locations/Hillsdale KC Water Sports kcwatersports.com Molly’s Table mollys-table.com S&S Stables ssstables.com Miami County Farm Tour micofarmtour.com Hoot Owl Hill hootowlgardens.com
28 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Miami County
Miami County: A Flavor All Its Own
Written by Kimberly Winter Stern
Photographs from left: Jason Dailey (2), Courtesy of Miami County, Jason Dailey
Fine wines, rib-sticking barbecue and celestial views highlight this lush slice of eastern Kansas
live music, crafts, dancers, food and camping and hiking. Take a guided The only thing brighter than the more. horseback ride around the lake sun-dappled vineyards on Miami The annual Miami County Farm on Missouri Fox Trotter horses at County’s celebrated Somerset Wine Tour in May gives an up-close-andS&S Stables. Or make some waves Trail are the stars twinkling in an inky personal glimpse into farm life, Kansas at KC Watersports, which offers sky at the Powell Observatory near agriculture and locavore venues like wakeboarding, boating, and a beach. Louisburg. Fire Lake Camp, with its pick-yourWhen it’s time to refuel, Miami The key to enjoying this lush and own asparagus crop, or Cy and Dee’s County serves up delicious fare, such hilly slice of eastern Kansas is a sense as Molly’s Table Café in Paola’s historic Blackberries, with more than 1,000 of casual exploration. Friendly and thornless plants. accessible, Miami County is a versatile downtown district, to award-winning Relive your childhood by taking in barbecue served at Miami County destination for couples, families or a double feature at Miami County’s last Airport’s We B Smokin’. generational excursions. Each season drive-in movie theater, Osawatomie’s Tasty ‘cue—including a succulent has its own beauty, from fall’s vibrant iconic Midway Drive-In. The theater pulled pork sandwich—and wood-fired colors and spring’s green landscape pizzas are on the menu at Hillsdale Bank opened in 1953 and is one of seven to summer’s endless blue skies and remaining in the Sunflower State. Bar B.Q., in a historic 1906 building that verdant farmland—along with its own Go nuts at Prothe’s Pecans, a fourthwas originally State Bank. Don’t forget to rhythm of sights and sounds. generation, 80-acre farm that grows buy a bottle of the sauce that has won Miami County is diverse in its Kansas pecans, including the Pawnee ribbons at Kansas City’s unique pleasures, and Kanza varieties. Open year-round, prestigious American from sipping Prothe’s is family owned and operated, Royal Barbecue, among handcrafted Lost Don’t leave home and takes great pride in its authentic other accolades. Trail Root Beer and without … Enjoy the enchanting Sunflower State product. eating sugar-dusted Hoot Owl Hill offers an unusual Historic Downtown cider doughnuts at type of accommodation known as Park Square in Paola, Louisburg Cider Mill Make sure there’s plenty of “glamping”—a trendy type of upscale with its picturesque to observing big cats available space in the car to pack camping—on a visually spectacular hill fountain and romantic at Cedar Cove Feline cases of wine because you’re overlooking the Marais De Cygne River gazebo. Once used as a Conservatory and about to discover what thousands Valley and historic Miami County. Casa central gathering place Education Center. of annual visitors already know: Somerset Bed and Breakfast is a taste for local Indian tribes, Hillsdale Lake The spirit of Kansas is alive on the of Italy in Miami County, with wellcircus performances and State Park in Somerset Wine Trail. appointed rooms in a delightful setting. and town parades and northwestern Miami When it’s time to leave Miami celebrations, the modernCounty abounds The four wineries on the Somerset County’s rolling countryside at the day Park Square is host with recreational Wine Trail grow luscious grapes in end of your weekend escape, don’t to the annual two-day opportunities, an area that, prior to Prohibition, forget to take home your serenity—it’s Roots Festival each including fishing, produced more wine than any complimentary with every visit. August, which features boating, hunting, RV other part of the country. These four are a shining example of regional agriculture at its best, with Wine Trail Stops four delicious craft vintage wines. And you can even board the Miami Somerset Ridge Vineyard & Winery | Somersetridge.com County Trolley from your hotel NightHawk Vineyard & Winery | Nighthawkwines.com Kansas! or bed-and-breakfast along the Middle Creek Winery and Graue Vineyards | Middlecreekwinery.com Magazine designated route and go winery White Wind Vineyard and Winery | Whitewindfarms.com spring 2014 hopping. Miami County Trolley | Miamicountytrolley.com
room to spare.
Somerset
29
The Flint Hills: Beauty across the plains
Written by Lou Ann Thomas
History, nature and culture come alive in the Tallgrass Prairie
30 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
the nation, attracting more than 20,000 beautifully restored limestone homes visitors and contestants from all over can be seen on the side streets. Enjoy the world. The Cowboy Dance, held on treats from the Alma Bakery—may we both Friday and Saturday nights at the recommend the Snickerdoodle—and rodeo, is billed as “the most fun you the Alma Creamery for all-natural, can have with your boots on.” homemade cheeses and other KansasSome might say the heart of the made products. Flint Hills lies in Cottonwood Falls, Council Grove is a historical stop known for the Emma Chase Café, Chase in the Flint Hills. There is plenty to see County Historical Museum and the in “The Grove,” with its 24 historical historic Chase County Courthouse. sites, including the Hays House Visitors can experience a slice of Flint restaurant, which is billed as the oldest Hills life. continuously-serving restaurant west of Visit during an event weekend, the Mississippi; the Terwilliger Home, such as the Prairie Fire Festival once the last home that travelers on celebrating the popular spring prairie the Santa Fe Trail would pass on their burning (April 7-12); or the annual Flint way out of town; and the Kaw Indian Hills FolkLife Festival with bluegrass Mission. From there, hop on to the Flint and dancing (June 14-15). Hills Scenic Byway, Highway 177, which stretches 47 miles, over hill and dale, through the heart of this region. Interested in a rodeo weekend? Head to Strong City, home of the Flint This scenic drive takes you through more ranch and cattle country, Hills Rodeo. Held the frequently peppered with limestone homes, barns and fences. This is a more first weekend of June, traveled road, but a slow pace is still encouraged, not only by the scenery, the rodeo is one of but also by the dips, rises and occasional 90-degree turns. the first and largest There are two portions of this scenic drive: one, from Alma to Alta Vista Professional Rodeo (paved) and K-4, west of Topeka, to K-99 south of Alma (gravel). Cowboy Associationapproved rodeos in Both segments are well marked, with signage to help you navigate the entire route, and both offer a leisurely drive through prairie and hills. (You can pick up the gravel part of the drive at the Snokomo Road exit off Interstate 70, a mile-and-a-quarter south of Paxico, and enjoy a 22-mile ride through breathtaking vistas and vast grasslands to Alma.)
Drive through the hills, Skyline Mill Creek Drive
Pull over, get out and listen, look and feel the wind in the grasses, the song of a meadowlark—or just stand in awe at the merging of sky and earth.
Photographs: Doug Stremel
The Flint Hills is a majestic swath of land that cuts through the heart of central Kansas. Among the region’s 22 counties, it’s hard to decide on just one destination for a quick getaway; this native Tallgrass Prairie region, offers many wonderful excursions. One of the larger communities in the Flint Hills, Manhattan, is home to the Flint Hills Discovery Center and the Konza Prairie Biological Station. The station is located on 3,487 acres of a native tallgrass prairie preserve, just south of Manhattan. Enjoy the nature trails, open to the public, from dawn to dusk every day of the year. Just east of Manhattan is Paxico, featuring Victorian-era storefronts specializing in antiques and collectibles. Within walking distance to downtown, Mill Creek Campground and RV Park offers 47 campsites, most equipped with water, electricity and sewer, as well as several cabins for rent. One mile north of Paxico, in Newbury, stands the stately Sacred Heart Catholic Church, known as the Cathedral of the Flint Hills. Often called the City of Native Stone, Alma is on the picturesque Native Stone Byway. This quaint community boasts native limestone buildings along Main Street, and
Where to stay
Where to eat
don’t miss
link to
Flint Hills
The Grand Central Hotel in Cottonwood Falls puts you in the center of the Flint Hills. Each of the 10 beautifully appointed rooms is “branded” for a Chase County ranch. During your stay, arrange for an excursion: biking, nature hiking, picnics, horseback riding, fishing and even directions for scenic back-road drives can be arranged through the hotel. The Grand Grill features cut-to-order steaks, as well as chicken, shrimp and even Eggplant Parmesan. Top it all off with Grand Central crème brulee. grandcentralhotel.com
Ad Astra Food & Drink, in Strong City, is a great place for eats and drinks. From meat-and-potato appetites to vegan and gluten-free options, Ad Astra has it—and it’s all made from scratch. The menu includes locally raised bison and chicken, and local seasonal produce, and the brats are made next door at the grocery store. You can’t really get much fresher than that. Ad Astra also features a full bar with local craft beers on tap, perfect for an evening with live music. Note: The café is only open Friday through Sunday. adastrafood-drink.com
The Flint Hills Discovery Center is a great place to begin your adventure, and it’s a must-visit for anyone wishing to learn more about the unique ecosystem of the Tallgrass Prairie. The Center offers exhibits, interactive displays and activities that will educate and entertain all ages. From the sense-enhancing, multimedia immersion film Tallgrass Prairie: Tides of Time, to exhibits tracing the importance of fire, wind, earth and other elements important to sustaining the Flint Hills—kids will love it! flinthillsdiscovery.org
Visit the Flint Hills travelks.com/flint-hills Emma Chase Café emmachasecafe.com Prairie PastTimes Antiques & Crafts prairiepasttimes.com Flint Hills Victorian Dance Society flinthillsvictoriandancesociety.com Flint Hills Rodeo flinthillsrodeo.com Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve nps.gov/tapr/index.htm Prairie Fire Festival prairiefirefestival.com Flint Hills FolkLife Festival flinthillsfolklifefestival.com
31 Flint Hills
Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Where to stay
Where to eat
don’t miss
link to
Camp at Cheyenne Bottoms. A small portion of the wildlife area is designated for primitive camping. Just a 1/2 mile west of the area office, NE 60 Road and NE 10 Avenue. ksoutdoors.com
Johnsons Smokehouse BBQ is the place to indulge in authentic, mouthwatering barbeque. Located in an old Roadhouse along the Santa Fe Trail, this oldstyle BBQ joint features ribs, pulled pork and beef brisket slowly smoked over real hickory wood. Tip: Save room for a slice of delicious homemade pecan or sweet-potato pie. johnsonssmokehousebbq. com
Located in the fine arts building of Barton Community College, the celebrated Shafer Gallery features bronze sculptures by the late Hoisington artist Gus Shafer, breathtaking masterpieces by artists such as Chagall, Matisse, and Picasso, and ongoing exhibitions from regional and national artists. bartonccc.edu
Cheyenne Bottoms ksoutdoors.com
Opportunities abound for
outdoor enthusiasts to hike and
bike nature trails, canoe along the river, explore the wetlands, and observe the
spectacular wildlife inhabiting the region.
Great Bend
Kansas Wetlands Education Center wetlandscenter.fhsu.edu Great Bend Brit Spaugh Zoo greatbendks.net/index.aspx?nid=35 Barton County Historical Society Museum and Village bartoncountymuseum.org/index.html Barton County Courthouse 1400 Main St., (620) 793-1800 Rosewood Wine Cellar rosewoodcreations.com Barton County Arts Center bartonarts.org Playa Azul 4909 10th St., (620) 793-6788 Crest Theatre gbct.net
32 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Great Bend
Johnsons Smokehouse BBQ johnsonssmokehousebbq.com Shafer Gallery bartonccc.edu
Great Bend: Glorious Outdoors
Written by Linda Thomasson
Photographs from left: Courtesy of Visit Great Bend, Doug Stremel, Visit Great Bend (2)
Discover a slice of nature, history and really good barbecue
Bottoms Wildlife Area to experience Nestled in central Kansas, Great Bend sits along the distinctive eastward stunning views of this ecological wonder. The Center offers exhibits, bend of the Arkansas River. Boasting educational programs, driving tours a history rooted in the Old West, this region holds countless stories of Indian and guided van tours of the wetlands. Discover the joys of wildlife at Great battles, frontier cowboys and life on the Bend Brit Spaugh Zoo, which shelters western prairie. more than 75 species of animals from With its small-town charm, around the world. The entrance to the pulsating art scene and rich landscapes, zoo houses the Raptor Center—a refuge this thriving Kansas community offers for injured birds of prey. Inside the visitors an extraordinary array of Center, observe medical procedures, activities and attractions. view state-of-the-art exhibits and explore Nature awaits at Cheyenne interactive learning stations. In the zoo Bottoms—the largest marsh in the venture through the butterfly house and interior United States and a bustling the Ed Shed. New to the family are two migration point for North American baby mountain birds. Located seven lions and two baby miles northeast of grizzly bears. Great Bend, Cheyenne Journey Bottoms hosts Dine out at the Playa Azul Mexican south on Main approximately 330 bird Restaurant, just minutes from downtown. Street (U.S. species throughout the Delight in a festive family atmosphere, huge Highway 281), year. Depending on the portions and affordable prices. Must-try: the just over the season, visitors may margaritas! Arkansas River see swells of white Bridge, to visit pelicans circling the Enjoy an evening at the historic Crest Theatre the Barton skies, long graceful located along the peaceful downtown square. County Historical whooping cranes Placed on the National Register of Historic Society Museum calling out guarded Places in 2005, the renovated Crest Theatre and Village. The warnings or majestic maintains much of its original Art Moderne museum offers bald eagles searching style. Just beyond the brightly lit marquee, collections, for prey. the Crest features theatrical performances by exhibits and Migrate to the the Great Bend Community Theatre group, memorabilia Kansas Wetlands touring theater acts, musical concerts and a that tell the Education Center at variety of special events. story of this the southeast corner region’s engaging of the Cheyenne Catch a movie at the Golden Belt Cinema 6, featuring stadium seating, massive screens, and the latest in surround sound. Renovated into a six-theater complex, the Golden Belt boasts a majestic lobby and a capacity of nearly 700 seats. Located in historic downtown, this theater offers patrons an incredible moviegoing experience.
After Hours
historical past. The village is a glimpse of life on the western plains, and includes a schoolhouse, train depot, a stone house and a church. The historic downtown square reveals the essence of this prairie region, beginning with the Barton County Courthouse. Designed in Modern Eclectic style, this extraordinary building is surrounded by trees, walkways, and monuments to local Kansas history. Relax on a bench near the Jack Kilby Memorial and listen to songbirds cooing in the wind. Stand directly on the famous Santa Fe Trail while viewing “The Rifleman,” who stoically guards the north side of the courthouse. Wander around the square to find eclectic stores, coffeehouses and local eateries. Stop in at the Rosewood Wine Cellar for fine wine, homemade jellies and salsa, gourmet coffee, horsehair pottery and unique gift items. Stroll through the Barton County Arts Center featuring local art for sale, regional art exhibits, consignment galleries, workshops and special events. Enjoy the whimsical, oversized birdhouses perched in front of many local businesses and marvel at the five magnificent bronze sculptures along the downtown sidewalks. Great Bend invites visitors to explore its natural landscapes, immerse in its vibrant culture and embrace its historical significance.
33 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Try Southwest: Three cities, one unique experience
Written by Edie Ross
A whirlwind trip to Southwest Kansas provides a unique experience at three different communities, which are arranged within an 80-mile triangle, allowing travelers a deeper, richer view of this region. From breathtaking, starry night skies and endless fields bearing the fruits of good, honest hard work, to residents who know no strangers— southwest Kansas simply captures hearts. “I can’t tell you how many people I’ve talked to who moved here with an oil company or for a job of some kind, intending to stay two or three years, and 30 years later they are still here and can’t imagine being anyplace else,” says Sally Fuller, executive director of the Liberal Convention and Visitors’ Bureau. Fuller made southwest Kansas her home in 1984. Any time of year, southwest Kansas has plenty to offer in the way of attractions, including Garden City’s Lee Richardson Zoo, Liberal’s Land of Oz and Dodge City’s Boot Hill Museum and Casino. The Lee Richardson Zoo in Garden City’s Finnup Park offers 50 beautifully landscaped acres that house 110 species from around the world. Accredited by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums,
34 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
in Dodge City, visitors will want their the zoo operates by the same high first stop to be the Boot Hill Museum, standards as the renowned Bronx and a replica of Front Street, the historic San Diego zoos. gunfighting site, which was destroyed But unlike those larger zoos, the by fire in 1885. Historic photos helped Lee Richardson Zoo is drivable. officials recreate what the business“We are unique that way,” says Kathy Sexson, zoo director, adding that lined street would have looked like in the 1870s. Exhibits include the Kansas it is free to walk through the zoo, but Cowboy Hall of Fame and an extensive there is an admission charge for cars. gun collection. Visitors might also want “People can drive in, stop and get out to mosey over to the Boot Hill Casino for a picnic and get back in. It is also and Resort, which features more than nice for colder weather or for those 580 slot machines and 16 table games. who aren’t able to walk the whole zoo.” Among southwest Kansas’ most Just an hour’s drive away is Liberal, impressive assets, however, are its which features the official home of residents. Dorothy Gale, as “It may take declared by Gov. John you a while to get Carlin in the 1980s. Don’t leave home here, but once Liberal is also the site you’re here, you’re of the “Land of Oz” without … home,” says exhibit. Visitors are Roxanne Morgan, greeted by Professor assistant director of Marvel’s Wagon and The scenery is not likely what leaps to the Garden City Mrs. Gulch riding her mind when an outsider thinks of southwest Convention and bicycle as they enter Kansas, but the locals beg to differ. From Visitors Bureau. “It the 5,000-square-foot miles of crop fields to gorgeous sunsets doesn’t matter if exhibit. Around the and sunrises to starry night skies, there is you’re in Dodge, corner is Munchkin never a lack of photo material. Liberal or Garden— Land, with the yellow if you need brick road, and from “There are pockets of really beautiful scenery out here,” says Sally Fuller, something, we’ll there more scenes of executive director of the Liberal make sure you the movie unfold. Convention and Visitors’ Bureau. “We have it.” Down the road have those sunsets with high, thin clouds and the beautiful orange-to-pink color. There are fields, depending on what time of year you’re here, of amber wheat or deep red milo, or acres and acres of big, beautiful sunflowers lifting their heads in the morning. It’s a beauty all of its own out here.”
A camera!
Photographs from left: Courtesy of the Dodge City CVB, Travis Young, Finney County Tourism, Liberal CVB
Garden City, Liberal and Dodge City show southwest Kansas in all its glory
After Hours Southwest Kansas is known for its hospitality, no matter what time of day. After the businesses close for the day, there is still plenty to do. Garden City’ Samy’s Spirits and Steakhouse is a locally-owned casual-dining restaurant where the residents go to unwind and dine. A more boisterous crowd might like Liberal’s Billy’s Mexican Grill and Q—a bar and grill with sports programming on a number of televisions. It’s not unusual to see groups of people enjoying loud conversations back and forth at each other from table to table. Pull into Arkalon Park, 13 miles northeast of Liberal, grab a blanket and stargaze (the park is closed October-April). “You won’t believe how many stars are in the sky,” says Roxanne Morgan, assistant director of the Garden City Convention and Visitors Bureau. “You’ll see stars you could never see in town. You can just see for miles.”
Where to stay
Where to eat
don’t miss
link to the
Southwest
Dodge City’s Hampton Inn & Suites, built in 2012, is located adjacent to the Boot Hill Casino & Resort. Offering 108 deluxe rooms, including a state-of-theart fitness area and an indoor swimming pool, it makes for an easy gamble. boothillcasino.com
Pick Liberal’s variety of food trucks—a great option for a group of people with different tastes. Mexican cuisine, barbecue and good old American hamburgers are all available. Food trucks are usually parked along Kansas Avenue, Liberal’s main drag, and on Pancake Boulevard. Those who want to hear the inside scoop about what to do and see in southwest Kansas can find locals at Spencer Browne’s Coffee House in Liberal.
International Pancake Day, an international race that began in Olney, England in the 1400s, has been a tradition in Liberal since 1950. (Liberal is the only U.S. community to host a pancake race.) This friendly competition, which is for women only and includes running with a skillet, takes place at 11:55 a.m. on Fat Tuesday every year, regardless of weather. pancakeday.net
Lee Richardson Zoo leerichardsonzoo.org Land of Oz liberal.net/info/events/oz.html Boot Hill Museum boothill.org Boot Hill Casino boothillcasino.com Spencer Browne’s Coffee House facebook.com/ SpencerBrownesCoffeeHouse Samy’s Spirit and Steakhouse samysgck.com/ Billy’s Mexican Grill and Q 44 Village Plaza, Liberal (620) 626-4400
Dodge City Garden City Liberal
35 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
36 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
City Slickers For the
For an old-fashioned dude-ranch experience atop the Kansas prairies, cattle drives provide an unforgettable experience Written by Richard Shank
Photography by Aaron East and Doug Stremel
37 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
As the sun rises over the ranch, the owners and their guests will rise soon to convince about 120 head of sometimesuncooperative cattle that they need to temporarily move to another location. First things first, as cattle drives don’t start on an empty stomach for the guests, ranch hands or livestock. Guests are invited to pitch in and help feed the livestock and saddle the horses.
Soon a ranch hand might utter words reminiscent of the ’60s television series Rawhide—where Gil Favor yelled, “Head ‘em up and move ‘em out!”—and the cattle drive is underway. Don’t expect a fleet of four-wheelers to pass by to offer a ride. No, during the waking hours, you and the horse are inseparable, constant companions on the prairies of Kansas. As evening approaches, the wagons carrying the food stop, and preparations begin for the evening meal. As the still evening air signals bedtime, guests prepare their bedrolls for sleeping under the stars or cowboy teepees. Either way, they share the surroundings with howling coyotes, chirping birds and the pitter-patter of squirrels, rabbits and a fox or two. All in all, it’s an unforgettable Kansas experience.
38 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Josh Hoy of Flying W Ranch during a cattle drive.
Moore Longhorn Ranch moorelonghornranch.com Joe and Nancy Moore fled Colorado in 1980 for ranch life 45 miles southeast of Dodge City near Bucklin. They named their property Moore Longhorn Ranch. In 2002, they began welcoming visitors to stop by for a taste of what life on the prairie is really like at the 6,000-acre ranch. Cattle drives and ranch weekends have become a part of the fledgling industry known as “agritourism,” which the Moores tapped into a long time ago. People from all over the world are crossing the oceans for the opportunity to walk side-by-side with real-life cowboys who sleep on the prairie and add new meaning to the old expression “fine dining by a campfire stove.” “We learn as much from our guests as they do from us,” Joe says. “A lot of things we take for granted, so it’s good for all of us to slow down and take a look at what we have, and in the process watch the birds, butterflies and other outdoor creatures.” By all accounts, Joe is the type of person who can figure out a way to accomplish any task and is known for thinking outside the box. So when demand grew among guests, he found more lodging in a former motel in Cunningham, with seven individual cabins that he moved to the ranch. There is more to the Moore Longhorn Ranch experience than a cattle drive. For two days each August, the ranch is off limits to men for what Nancy calls a “Cowgirl Getaway.” Women arrive for a couple days of roping, horseback riding, hiking, and cooking with a Dutch oven. As for international visitors, Joe says, “Some of the guests say they want to see open space and escape the rat race of a large city. On the other hand, a guest from Saudi Arabia said he just wanted to ride a horse for the first time.” Two-day cattle drives are available in July and August, and those who prefer a three-day experience can do so during April and October. Flying W Ranch flinthillsflyingw.com Meanwhile, across Kansas to the east in Chase County, near the small burg of Clements, one can find two proponents of the Tallgrass Prairie named Josh and Gwen Hoy. Josh, a fifth-generation Flint Hills rancher, makes it clear from the outset that he loves life on the 7,000-acre Flying W Ranch.
39 Kansas! Herding cattle, saddling up and singing songs by the campfire are all experiences on a cattle drive.
Magazine spring 2014
“What was merely a weekend getaway to the lush open spaces of central Kansas turned into a magical ‘This is Kansas’ experience.” -Margaret Douglas
“This is all I ever wanted to be,” Josh says. The Flying W Ranch looks much like a set from Gunsmoke or Bonanza, with its 1890s vintage home and three-story red barn— and is home to several hundred head of livestock, including 50 horses. This is a destination for those wanting to experience everything from a cattle drive to ranch chores. Cattle drives consist of herding the pack several miles to a new pasture for what Gwen calls rotational grazing. Although a majority of the guests are Kansans, one should not be surprised to meet an international comrade. “We have received guests from 35 foreign nations and all 50 states,” Josh says. On the day of the cattle drive, very little can stop the forward motion of the herd. “We ride rain or shine, and the only thing that can postpone a cattle drive is the threat of a lightning storm,” Gwen says. Guests look forward to dinner as Josh, reputed to be the best chef in the Flint Hills, can cook up a meal with the best of them. Along with the Flying W home-cooked meal comes a special presentation. Josh’s father, Jim, sheds his classroom attire from his day job as a professor at Emporia State University to share an education on the Flint Hills, Tallgrass Prairie,
Flying W Ranch and anything else that comes to mind. During a Flying W visit, guests can also indulge in a walking tour or wagon tour of the ranch. And, if you want to experience more of day-to-day ranch duty, you can sign up to help with chores, check on cattle, fix fence or even clear brush. So there is something for everybody at the Flying W Ranch. Guests tell of life-changing experiences after their visits. Margaret Douglas and Micki Mikulich from Sugar Creek, Missouri decided to take a leap of faith and journeyed to the Flint Hills for a cattle drive, the results of which exceeded their expectations. “What was merely a weekend getaway to the lush open spaces of central Kansas turned into a magical ‘This is Kansas’ experience,” says Douglas. “The experience is cowboy cuisine, with excellent, scrumptious night-before meals, featuring homegrown ingredients and wide-open-spaces hospitality. “We had an exquisite time on horseback meandering through the scrub, draws, timber, hills, fresh air, and wide open spaces of the Hoys’ Flint Hills,” Douglas says. “By the afternoon we were driving home with our entire being filled with the effervescence of Kansas and the Flint Hills.”
40 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Even a chuck wagon follows along with a Moore Longhorn Ranch outing.
Uncoveringhiddentreasures Kansas’ state parks are some of the finest not only in the U.S., but in the world
written by Seth Jones
42 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Bob Nicholson, volunteer park coordinator for Wilson State Park near Sylvan Grove, knows that the park where he volunteers 800 hours a year is no secret. After all, every week he sees license plates from places like Oregon, Arkansas, Colorado and Missouri. “We see people from out of state all the time, and they’re very complimentary,” Nicholson says. “I would say the average Kansan might not be aware of what great parks we have here, but the average outdoor enthusiast is definitely aware of this great area.” Kansas’ state parks are full of wonder and beauty. Activities run the spectrum of any outdoor enthusiast’s interests, from fishing, hiking and camping to archery, mountain biking and disc golf. “We’re creating a lot of opportunities for people to learn about the great things we have in the state,” says Linda Craghead, assistant secretary for the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism. “We’re asking people to reconnect by disconnecting—we’re encouraging people to put down their tablets, their smart phones, and get outside and rediscover nature.” By visiting travelks.com, visitors can learn about the many state parks the Sunflower State has to offer. These offerings are diverse and can appeal to everyone from hard-core campers to travelers who prefer the luxuries of indoor plumbing and electricity (as seen in the state park cabins). “Our governor [Sam Brownback] is definitely interested in helping Kansas become renowned in outdoor recreation. He does everything he can to help us improve,” Craghead says.
Kansas State Parks Passport You can now purchase a Kansas State Parks Passport in conjunction with your Kansas motor vehicle registration or renewal. The passport costs $15 (with a possible $50 transaction fee), which is $10 less than the KDWPT annual park vehicle permit. The passport grants access to all state parks except the Prairie Spirit Trail State Park. To learn more, call the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism at (620) 672-5911. To review park fees, visit ksoutdoors.com/park-fees.
43 Kansas! Cabin at Cross Timbers State Park. Photograph by Harland J. Schuster
Magazine spring 2014
2014
StatePark Improvements This spring, Sand Hills State Park, north of Hutchinson, will add 64 total camping sites, all with 50-amp service. A cabin location is also planned, as well as an equestrian campground with UTV paths. Expanded campgrounds are in the works at Hillsdale State Park, located between Spring Hill and Paola. The new campground will add 58 new campsites, all at 50-amp service. Also available at Hillsdale is a new shooting range for 50-yard pistol shooting and 100-yard rifle shooting. A 200-yard rifle range is in the works as well. Clinton State Park, located in Lawrence, is adding new restrooms and sidewalks. An archery range and improved trails are next on the list.
Improvements include new campsites, additional cabins and expanded gun and archery ranges. At Wilson State Park, considered by many to be the most beautiful in the state, Nicholson puts in the hours to make sure the Switchgrass Bike Trail is well maintained. The hard work has paid off, as the trail was named one of only 55 “Epic” trails in the world by the International Mountain Bicycling Association. What does that mean? To find a trail as good as this one here in the middle of Kansas, a mountain biker would have to travel to Arkansas or the Colorado Rockies. “The terrain—I don’t want to say it’s perfect, but it’s pretty close,” Nicholson says. “A lot of mountain bike areas are in forests. This one is situated by the lake, and there are many great views. “People don’t tend to talk about Kansas as a great state for trails, but in fact the state has won an international mountain bike trail award,” Craghead says proudly. “You just have to get off the four-lane roads. This is not a flat state.”
parkit! Fees vary at private parks and city-managed areas. Utility campsite fees at state parks are $9 a day for one hookup, $11 for two hookups and $12 for three hookups, according to the KDWPT. Visitors also must have a daily or annual motor vehicle permit, which varies with the season.
El Dorado State Park has added an archery range.
44 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
About half of the KDWPT cabins are accessible to those with disabilities. Rental rates vary depending on the location, season, day and cabin type. To reserve a cabin or for rental rates, visitreserve.ksoutdoors.com
Photograph: Doug stremel
ksoutdoors.com
Most primitive campsites have vaulted toilets but no showers or electrical hookups. State park campsites or Corps of Engineers-operated areas include family showers and flush toilets. Daily campsite permits are $8 during the prime season— April 1 through September 30. During the off-season permits are $7 at most state parks.
KANSAS!
Wamego Manhattan Abilene El Dorado Topeka Lecompton
Historical Lecompton Civil War Birthplace Where slavery began to die
Visit Constitution Hall & Territorial Capital Museum 10-5 pm Wed-Sat • 1-5 pm Sun Tours (785) 887-6148 www.lecomptonkansas.com
advertise
in KANSAS! Magazine For details contact Sunflower Publishing (888) 497-8668 sunpubads@sunflowerpub.com
There is plenty to see and do in Kansas. Be sure to call ahead for complete details.
Tour Kansas
Kansas River Trail From Junction City to Kansas City, the Kaw provides a free-flowing good time written by Kim Gronniger photography by Gary Jones
E
ach year, Kansans of all ages discover the pleasures that river exploration offers, drawn by the allure of bald eagles, beavers, blue herons and other wildlife spotted on the riverbanks, as well as the peaceful pace of their craft. Sandbars provide novel spots for savoring picnics, pitching tents, or finding artifacts, all contributing toward an immersive wilderness experience conveniently close to home. Laura Calwell has been the official Kansas Riverkeeper since 2003. In 2012 her role expanded into a nongovernmental advocacy position when the river, also known as the Kaw, was designated a National Water Trail by the National Park Service. “Some Kansans think they have to go to Colorado or Arkansas or Missouri, but the Kansas River offers a wonderful opportunity right here in our own beautiful backyard,” Calwell says. The Kansas River Trail offers recreational diversions to suit any skill-set or mood. From May to October, adventurers paddle kayaks and canoes along the 173-mile waterway meandering from Junction City to Kansas City. Calwell thrives on interacting not only with paddlers but also with an extensive network of likeminded professionals representing state and national
agencies. They are dedicated to preserving the Kansas River for recreation—and wellness, too, as the river is the primary drinking source for 800,000 Kansas residents and for area wildlife. Growing up in Wichita, Calwell spent summers camping, boating, waterskiing and canoeing on the Little Arkansas River. She and her husband, Mike, bought kayaks in the ’90s “There is nothing better for my and met kindred spirits who had established the Friends of the Kaw, peace of mind than to float the an organization committed to Kaw River. It’s peaceful, relaxing, protecting and promoting the Kansas and beautiful. Because there is River primarily by curtailing in-river limited cell coverage, it gives me dredging. a great break. I call it my float fix. Captivated by the Kaw’s cause, the Calwells, both educators, helped It’s close to home for me, so I do the organization achieve 501(c)3 not have to pack up the car, make status, served in board positions a hotel reservation and drive and persuaded communities along four hours. It’s in my own Kansas the trail to let the resourceful group backyard.” of river revelers expand access points from three to the 19 that are —Liz Anne McElhaney currently available. Friends of the Kaw helped build 14 of those 19 access points by canvassing local businesses to borrow heavy equipment and secure donations for
47 Enjoy a river escape not far from home by traveling the Kansas River in a kayak or canoe. The Kansas River Trail is the latest addition to Kansas’ unique outdoor adventures.
Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Oar You Ready to Get Started? Sunscreen, sunglasses, s’mores fixings and small coolers may come readily to mind when planning a float trip. But before you rendezvous on the Kansas River, review recommended packing lists, weather conditions, water levels and the location of potential hazards, like sunken railroad bridges, to ensure safe passage along the river. Visit Friends of the Kaw, kansasriver. org, and Up a Creek, upacreek.biz, for more information about guided outings. Not ready to invest in a canoe or kayak of your own? These businesses along the Kansas River can keep you afloat as you test the waters on your commitment. Lawrence Jellystone Park / (785) 842-3877 kansascityjellystone.com Up a Creek upacreek.biz
Manhattan Mud Kat Kayaking / (620) 430-6754 facebook.com/mudkatkayaking Tuttle Creek State Park (785) 539-7941 Outdoor Recreation Center, Fort Riley MWR rileymwr.com/odr/ (For Fort Riley troops and their families)
rebar and concrete, supplementing funds provided through the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks. “Community volunteers along the river took ownership and were proud of the access points they helped create,” says Calwell, noting that the group is close to realizing its goal of having an access point every 10 miles, the maximum trip-length recommended for inexperienced paddlers. Experienced paddlers can make the full trek from Junction City to Kansas City but should allow at least a week to complete the journey, according to Calwell. As a result of access-point expansion, more people are seeking out the Kaw as a recreation resource. In the summer of 2007, Craig Pruett and Ron Miller, City of Lawrence colleagues, decided to introduce their kids and grandkids, respectively, to the river’s wonders. The two became so enamored with their float trips that they established Up a Creek, a canoe and kayak rental company catering to a regional clientele from neighboring states. Pruett and Miller usually guide float trips with an average size of 15 to 20 people on Saturdays, but they
have also accommodated special requests for businesses interested in weekday team-building and bonding excursions. In the summer months, Up a Creek even sponsors festive, fullmoon forays replete with a sandbar campfire, s’mores and music. Float groups comprising families, friends, business associates and even bachelor and bachelorette parties “have a quality adventure with a beach-like environment that’s not more than a mile or so from a road,” Pruett says. Although Pruett is a seasoned sandbar camper, he emphasizes that one of the Kansas River’s “selling points” is “that people can have a funfilled outdoor getaway and at the end of the night still sleep in their own bed.” To celebrate and cultivate camaraderie among Kansas River enthusiasts, Up a Creek hosts an annual appreciation picnic for anyone who has paddled with the company during the season. Given the growing number of riverrecreation converts his company caters to each year, Pruett says his business partner’s website wisdom rings true: “If you have a bad day, it’s your own fault.”
Kansas River Map
48 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Ready to hit the Mighty Kaw? Then grab your own Kansas River Trail Map. Includes information on the Kansas River, surrounding communities and more. KSRiverTrail.com
Marshall County Tourism • MarshallCoKs.com Washington County Tourism
• WashingtonCountyKs.net
Manhattan Convention & Visitors Bureau • VisitManhattanKs.org Wabaunsee County
• Wabaunsee.com
Abilene & Herington • DKCoKS.org Emporia Convention & Visitors Bureau
• EmporiaKsChamber.org
Chase County Tourism • ChaseCountyChamber.org
Experience the Flint Hills www.kansasflinthills.travel
50
Kansas!
Magazine
spring 2014
Perry lake Sunset Jason Soden, Jefferson County
kansas!
gallery
gallery
kansas!
Lesser Prairie Chicken Harland J. Schuster, Logan County
51 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
gallery
kansas!
Waiting for Wind Jay Miller, Barton County
52 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Peeking Through the Keyhole Bruce L. Hogle, Gove County
gallery
kansas!
Wild Bobcats Karole Erikson, Pawnee County
Abandoned Farmhouse Brad Neff, McPherson County
53 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
gallery
kansas!
Mother and Foal Brad Neff, Shawnee County
54 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
gallery
kansas!
Bazaar Sunrise Bruce L. Hogle, Chase County
55 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Rock 3 Post Scenic Byway
This gorgeous valley celebrates the four seasons with beautiful hues and scenes. At 60 miles in length, the Smoky Valley Scenic Byway travels through the Smoky Hill River Valley, featuring native flowers, wildlife and endless skies. Kansas heritage abounds with sites such as the Trego County Courthouse and the Kansas Veterans’ Cemetery. Don’t miss the turkeys; the area is popular for hunting and wildlife-watching.
Prairie Trail 6 Scenic Byway The Prairie Trail Scenic Byway offers a hearty 56 miles of attractions—from Coronado Heights to the Birger Sandzén Memorial Gallery, from the Kansas Motorcycle Museum to Maxwell Wildlife Refuge (and Buffalo Tour). Art, history and scenery abound on this byway that travels through Ellsworth, Lindsborg and Marquette. Each community offers something a little different, making this journey one to linger on.
Short and sweet, the Post Rock Scenic Byway is an 18-mile route that extends north and south from Lucas to Wilson, passing Wilson State Park. Beyond the beautiful landscape, travelers will enjoy a genuine dose of folk art at the Grassroots Art Center and the Garden of Eden. When your journey is complete, enjoy lunch at the Drummer’s Tavern at the Midland Railroad Hotel.
2
Running just next door to the Kansas-Colorado state line, the Western Vistas Scenic Byway offers a glimpse of Kansas’ spacious landscape. Celebrating a Wild, Wild West legacy, points of interest include the Buffalo Bill Cultural Center, El Quartelejo Museum, and the Fick Fossil and History Museum. Many travelers enjoy an up-close-and-personal experience with Monument Rocks National Landmark and Mount Sunflower, the highest point in Kansas.
56 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
1
& Wildlife 4 Wetlands Scenic Byway Come fly with us! The Wetlands & Wildlife Scenic Byway is a sight to see when migratory birds make their “flyover” in Kansas. This 77-mile byway, recognized nationally, runs near the Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Refuge and Quivira National Wildlife Refuge. Pack your binoculars and slow down— some of the most beautiful species of birds flock here. Don’t miss the Ellinwood Tunnels, for a bizarre look at Kansas’ underground city.
Gypsum Hills Trail Ride near Medicine Lodge.
Western Vistas 1 Historic Byway
Wildlife new at the Cheyenne Bottoms near Great Bend.
Monument Rocks near Oakley.
Smoky Valley 2 Scenic Byway
Kansas Motorcycle Museum in Marquette.
Turkeys traversing the crops.
Kayaker at Wilson Lake.
By Golly, the Byways!
Kansas Byways provide a unique journey through some of the state’s most picturesque and storied regions
Gypsum Hills 5 Scenic Byway This south-central byway takes visitors through an unexpected Kansas landscape: the canyons, mesas and various buttes that make up the Gypsum Hills. At 42 miles long, the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway offers travelers the geological wonders known as the Red Hills. Consider a horseback ride with Gypsum Hills Trail Rides, or visit during the spring for a glimpse of the Greater Prairie Chicken. Don’t miss Carry A. Nation Home & Stockade Museum in Medicine Lodge.
3
ksbyways.org 9 9 Glacial Hills Scenic Byway
7
8
6
Antique Emporium in Alma.
5
7 Native Stone Scenic Byway Walls, bridges and buildings constructed of native limestone are peppered along this 48-mile route that passes through Alma, Eskridge, Keene and Dover. The Native Stone Scenic Byway, along K-4 and K-99, cuts through the rolling terrain of the eastern Flint Hills and skims near Lake Wabaunsee. The K-99 portion rises and falls, twists and turns, sometimes in a hairpin manner. Don’t skip the petite communities along the byway that beckon you to stop, linger and even window-shop. – LAT
11
10 Frontier Military Byway History and military buffs will enjoy a drive through the Frontier Military Historic Byway, visiting its many points of interest. Fort Leavenworth and Fort Scott National Historic Site are found on this byway, as well as the Marais des Cygnes Massacre Park and Mine Creek Battlefield. This byway, spanning nearly 170 miles from Leavenworth to Baxter Springs, will take you back in time to the most significant sites of the “Bleeding Kansas” era and showcase our military heritage.
Landscape in the Flint Hills.
4
10
8 Flint Hills Scenic Byway This 47-mile stretch of Highway 177 passes through the heart of the Flint Hills—from Council Grove to the north, to Cassoday in the south. The byway tops hills with views that make you feel you’re on top of the world, then dips into lush, tree-lined valleys. Large ranches spread out on either side, with fences few and far between. Take a side trip on any of the dirt roads that cross the highway and you might find yourself back on the open range, where you will more frequently have to break for cattle than cars. – LAT
Route 66 Visitor Information Center in Baxter Springs.
Tucked up in the northeastern hills of Kansas around Atchison, the Glacial Hills Scenic Byway comes with its own share of historic markers—from Amelia Earhart and the Pony Express to Lewis and Clark. Don’t miss lunch at the delicious Marigold Bakery & Café in Atchison before traveling north to the Four-State Lookout, in White Cloud, where you can see Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska and Iowa on a clear day.
Fort Scott National Historic Site in Fort Scott. Photograph by Harland J. Schuster
The Marigold Bakery & Café in Atchison.
Kansas has become the Byway State! Eleven different byways traverse the state, offering unique journeys through history, art, scenery and more. Consider a day trip on one (or more) of these exceptional drives to discover something new about our Sunflower State. Written by Katy Ibsen and Lou Ann Thomas Photography by Doug Stremel
11 Route 66 Historic Byway Get your kicks on this 13-mile historic byway. The iconic Route 66 passes through a tiny region of southeast Kansas. See an original Marsh Arch Bridge, dine at local haunts that will leave you wanting more, and shop the Baxter Flea Market. Kids will love the Southeast Kansas Nature Center, featuring various exhibits and activities year ‘round.
57 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
KANSAS!
Manhattan
Wichita
Topeka Humboldt Lawrence
Fine Arts Unique • Affordable • Functional Featuring the original handmade works of local, regional and national artisans. Pottery • Blown Glass • Jewelry • Woodwork • Textiles and much more
Visit us in beautiful downtown Lawrence, Kansas! 825 Massachusetts street Lawrence Ks - 785.843.0080 Also shop at:
www.phoenixgalleryks.com
advertise
58 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
in KANSAS! Magazine For details contact Sunflower Publishing (888) 497-8668 sunpubads@sunflowerpub.com
There is plenty to see and do in Kansas. Be sure to call ahead for complete details.
Taste of kansas
Yes, real men eat quiche! Brunch has made its comeback, and restaurants across Kansas are putting in their order
R
uth Baum, wife of a noted New York City restaurateur, once said that “brunch is the best of two worlds. You don’t have to get up early and you still have time to do something else.” Decades before Baum’s statement, the combination of breakfast and lunch became so popular it inspired British writer Guy Beringer to pen an essay on brunch as a remedy for a common English malady, the hangover. In “Brunch: A Plea,” published in an 1895 Hunter’s Weekly, Beringer wrote, “By eliminating the need to get up early on Sunday, brunch would make life brighter for Saturday-night carousers.”
written by Gloria Gale photography by Jason Dailey
59 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
recipe
The Roost’s NoLaw Bloody Mary “This traditional brunch drink has a kick. We use fresh vegetables from our garden or the Lawrence Market.” He proposed a more civilized approach, perfect for sharing tales of the previous evening: a hybrid midmorning meal that starts off slowly with lighter fare then segues into decidedly heavier dishes. “Brunch is cheerful, sociable and inciting. It is talk-compelling,” Beringer continues. “It makes you satisfied with yourself and your fellow beings. ” As logical as that remedy sounds, however, it took 30 years for the British invention of brunch to become popular in the States. Evan Jones, author of American Food: The Gastronomic Story, says he first became aware of brunch at the famous Pump Room in Chicago’s Ambassador Hotel in 1933.
60 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
As the economy grew, people with discretionary income discovered the convenience of dining out, thereby embracing the Sunday brunch. At Story in Prairie Village, executive chef/owner Carl Thorne-Thomsen echoes Baum’s sentiment: “I think it’s almost like a mini-vacation—the luxury of having a cocktail in the middle of the day, the sense of having nowhere to be for a few hours.” “We also have a lot of brunch regulars at Story who dine leisurely, reading the Sunday paper, sipping Bellinis and mimosas, having multiple courses then staying for dessert,” says Thorne-Thomsen, noting that brunch is more casual than dinner. “The flow of guests through the restaurant is different.
— Kenny Pingleton, The Roost
Ingredients Spicy V-8 juice 2 ounces vodka Squeeze of lemon 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon horseradish, to taste Cajun seasoning—to taste Worcestershire—to taste Hot sauce—to taste Dehydrated red pepper flakes (garnish) Homegrown pickles, carrots or okra (garnish) Instructions Shake and pour over ice!
recipe
Copper Oven Café Sammy “We put a unique spin on the breakfast sandwich.We call it the Hole-N-One—a wonderful change from drive-up window fare.”
— Sharon Schoenhofer, Copper Oven Café
Ingredients 1 medium yellow onion 1 large green pepper 1 large red pepper 1 large yellow pepper 1 large ripe tomato 2 ciabatta rolls 2 strips of bacon 2 slices of American cheese 2 large eggs Instructions Cut peppers and onion into strips. Sauté in butter or margarine until tender. Fry bacon to desired crispness. Scramble eggs in butter. Grill split ciabatta roll until golden brown. To assemble: Bottom bun, 2 slices American cheese, 2 strips bacon, 2 slices ripe tomato, 2 scrambled eggs, salt and pepper to taste. Cut sandwich in half and serve with fresh fruit.
61 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
recipe
Story’s Linguine with Eggs & Pancetta Ingredients 3 ounces pancetta, diced Grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon garlic, minced ½ cup chicken stock ½ cup spinach leaves 2 ounces butter, plus ½ ounce more for cooking eggs ¼ cup pecorino romano, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish ¼ cup parmesan 2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped Salt Lots of pepper 5 ounces linguine, either fresh or dried 4 eggs Instructions
62 Kansas!
Magazine spring 2014
Bring three quarts of water to a boil. Add 3 tablespoons salt. Meanwhile, heat a nonstick sauté pan large enough to hold 4 eggs over low heat. Separately, heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add grapeseed oil and pancetta. Cook until much of the fat renders from the pancetta and the pancetta has browned lightly. Pour out excess fat and add garlic. Sauté for 30-40 seconds, then add chicken stock. Melt ½ ounce of butter in the nonstick pan. Crack eggshells and add eggs to pan. Cook slowly, on one side only, until egg whites have set. Add pasta to boiling salted water and cook until al dente. To finish the sauce, add spinach, butter, both cheeses, and parsley to the pan with the pancetta and chicken stock. Season with salt and pepper. Add cooked pasta to the pan and stir. Slide eggs onto two plates. Divide the pasta and sauce between the plates, carefully mounding on top of the eggs. Sprinkle remaining pecorino over the pasta and serve. Serves 2.
bed & breakfast
association
The food is different. Instead of stepping outside after the last customer has been served and finding darkness, it’s bright sunlight.” Story serves simple, traditional dishes such as blueberry pancakes, French toast and grilled cheese, with a few luxury dishes as well, like lobster hash with poached eggs or smoked duck empanadas. storykc.com Kenny Pingleton and Manda and Sean Jolly are partners at The Roost in Lawrence—the latest addition to brunch locales in Kansas. “I think my partners would agree, we’ve never fallen out of love for brunch,” says Pingleton. “All three of us embrace the concept and find that’s what a lot of people want at an affordable price.” The restaurant offers a sit-down, full menu/bar where Pingleton, a former bartender, crafts at least six different Bloody Mary’s for his customers. Meanwhile, Sean, menumaker and executive chef, dishes out potato pancakes, Eggs Benedict and the Campfire Breakfast. 920mass.com Like the crew at The Roost, Sharon and Phil Schoenhofer, owners of Copper Oven Cafe in Wichita, find that breakfast is immensely appealing to their customers. “We seem to be doing something right because people keep coming back. Regulars, business folks and retired baby boomers appreciate that we use the finest quality ingredients. There is a full menu, but the bakery and breakfast items are our favorites,” says Sharon. copperovencafe.com A slow Sunday start and a sit-down brunch with steaming cups of coffee, a round-about of relishes, eggs, meats and pastries, plus mimosas, champagne and dollops of Hollandaise—there’s no doubt this is the cure for what ails.
www.kbba.com
gift certificates available
windmill inn
PrAirie oAks inn
Chapman-Abilene, KS
Sylvia, KS
www.windmillinnbb.com
www.prairieoaksinn.net
785-263-8755
620-486-2962
scenic VAlley inn Bed & BreAkfAst
country dreAms Bed And BreAkfAst
Manhattan, KS
Marion, Ks
www.scenicvalleyinn.com
www.countrydreamsbedandbreakfast.com
785-776-6831
800-570-0540
mt. sunflower Bed And BreAkfAst
seAsons of tHe foX
Sharon Springs, KS
Lindsborg, Kansas
www.mtsunflowerbandb.com
www.seasonsofthefox.com
785-852-4004
800-756-3596
Anderson Bed And BreAkfAst
c&w rAncH Bed & BreAkfAst Smolan, KS (Salina)
Manhattan, KS
www.cwranch.com 785-668-2352
www.andersonbnb.com
info@kbba
785-539-4994
•
888-572-2632
This past fall, an old, dilapidated grocery store in Volland, southwest of Alma, celebrated its 100th anniversary. The Kratzer Brothers’ Mercantile operated out of a beautiful bright red brick building in the heart of the Flint Hills. The store thrived, serving residents in the area for decades, but it slowly slipped into ruins over the last 40 years, becoming part of a ghost town. Proprietors Otto and Bill Kratzer opened the store in 1913. Karen Kratzer Durso later inherited it from her father, Vernon (son of Otto). In 2012, she and her husband, Kent, decided to sell the store. Patty and Jerry Reece, of Kansas City and Alma, purchased the building and its 15 acres with the intent of preserving the building and rebuilding it into a community hall. “Amidst the homemade cake and ice cream, it was so gratifying to see the place where my father’s family lived and worked and played being brought back to life by Patty and her team of engineers and specialists,” says Karen Durso. The building will reopen in October 2014 with a gallery exhibition of Otto Kratzer’s photographs.
Photograph courtesy of the Wabaunsee County Historical Society
milestone of kansas