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Reasons
to eat in Kansas
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fall 2013 vol 69 | issue 3
an unforgettable
manhattan state of Culinary bliss
contents
Abilene Tour Kansas: passenger approved, rail worthy colby our town
features
garden city table for 20 please!
6 Reasons We Love Kansas
Autumn begins a time when families come together for various reunions and the seasonal events abound Written by Gloria Gale
paola taste of kansas: earth, wind and fire lake
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135 lawrence kitchen confidant
gove county gallery
35 garden city table for 20 please!
16 Table for 20 Please!
KANSAS! magazine tips its hat to some of the state’s best eats
Barton county gallery
fort scott milestone: Gordon Parks McPherson flavorful festivals
wichita food truck!
34 Kitchen Confidant
Sample some of Kansas’ best culinary one-stop shops Written by Lou Ann Thomas
from the editor
I
50 Flavorful Festivals
Fill up this fall on these taste-full Kansas celebrations Written by Kimberly Winter Stern
54 54 Culinary Bliss
Three Kansas chefs shine in the national spotlight for staying true to their roots Written by Kimberly Winter Stern
on the cover
Rye in Leawood Photograph by Jason Dailey
find us on facebook: facebook.com/kansasMagazine follow us on twitter: @kansasMag
’m absolutely giddy at the opportunity to present an edition of culinary bounty this fall. Just take the pages of “Table for 20 Please!” and set out on a taste bud tour that will stretch well into winter. While you’re checking those 20 off the list, seek out the food trucks in Wichita. During your food tour, look out for some of Kansas’ fantastic kitchen stores in our “Kitchen Confidant” story. After you’re full from Kansas’ eats, take a diversion on one of the state’s excursion trains in Abilene, Waterville or Baldwin City. Riding aboard the old-fashioned rails is a fantastic way to view the countryside as the train seemingly lulls you into the past. And if you’re heading west for the holiday season (or anytime) stop at the Oasis on the Plains—this season’s Our Town is all about Colby. The sights, sounds and tastes of Kansas this fall are hard to surpass. We’d love to hear about your Kansas discoveries and inspiration—just send us a letter or email, or connect with us on Facebook or Twitter. Thank you for reading. Jennifer Haugh, editor
kansasmag .com • kansas!
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departments
3 The Making of KANSAS! 4 Letters 14 Fall 2013 Kansas Events 30 Our Town: Colby
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Kansas’ western prairies attract families and historians Written by Rachel Rayner
38 60
38 Tour Kansas: Passenger Approved, Rail Worthy
Excursion Trains are full steam in Kansas Written by Julie Tollefson
42 Gallery 60 Taste of Kansas: Earth, Wind and Fire Lake
Pay a visit to this pastoral farm where an experience designed to entice the senses awaits Written by Gloria Gale
64 Milestone of Kansas: 25th Annual Gordon Parks International Photo Contest
KANSAS!
Send your story ideas to ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com or to KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612.
GO MOBILE! Scan our QR code with your smartphone for the latest from KANSAS! magazine.
the making of
fe ood dit ion
PEOPLE BEHIND THE SCENES
Our guide to Lunch Depending on your circumstances, we are happy to make the following recommendations.
Photographers: 8
Your picky daughter is home from college:
Oklahoma Joe’s
Your East Coast relatives are visiting:
Guy & Mae's
Looking for hops, malt and barley:
toss up: Free State or Gella's
Relaxed atmosphere for a foodie:
Scenario:
Gallery Photographers: 9
choo choo Photographer Jason Dailey continues to defy our expectations and heights. We sent him north to capture the Central Branch Railroad in Waterville. But that 85-foot drop from the trestle crossing the Big Blue River had him a little shaken; fortunately he delivered (and by deadline).
The Results
4 Olives
You need a can of PBR:
Burger Stand
Following a tour of the Flint Hills:
The Breadbasket
Thirsty for herbs combined with top shelf accoutrements:
715
Need to feed a big family:
Luciano’s
Three words— Skillet Fried Chicken:
Brookville Hotel
In a hurry:
Cozy Inn
To cure a Late Night:
The Chef
Thank you to all of readers and Facebook fans who took the Kansas Eats survey.
Total Surveys Taken – 182 Remarks made under the “Other” option – 284 Survey says: Our readers love their local restaurants!
As told by writer Lou Ann Thomas:
restaurant suggestion:
Writers: 8
Hungry Writers “‘Would you be available to write about some of Kansas’s best restaurants?’ the email read. I could not type ‘YES’ fast enough! This was a dream assignment and I could not wait to dig in … to juicy burgers, unique cocktails, flavorful breakfasts, and specials that left me looking forward to my next visit.”
As told by writer Sally Snell: “At the time, I was so focused on the funny and mysterious messages written on dollar bills hanging from the ceiling at Guy & Mae’s that I was oblivious to the girlie pin-ups in the kitchen area. However, my photographer (husband Michael C. Snell) was acutely aware, as he was trying to frame them out of his photos.”
kansasmag .com • kansas!
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letters s ae dri tti o n
artists discover the
fall issue 2013
$4.99
reasons to go
on freedom’s frontier
@ flush picnic
Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism summer 2013 vol 69 | issue 2
kansasmag.com
l that my poetry is “ I f ee p
Reflections from summer 2013 cover subject Justin Runge. Midwestern.” ably alp Of course, I was flabbergasted. The running joke has been that this was the first and will be the last time a poet graces the cover of a glossy 12junking embark good eats magazine. What wasn't a surprise was how splendid it was to see all three of us artists between the covers. It's been fun to have friends tag me in photos of the magazine sitting on shelves in bookstores and gas stations— amazing that any of them spotted one in the wild, since my parents attempted to acquire every last copy. Thanks again for the opportunity to share my story with my surrogate state!
Jennifer T. Haugh editor
Sam Brownback governor
Robin Jennison KDWPT Secretary
Becky Blake
Director, tourism division
Justin Runge Lawrence www.sunflowerpub.com lawrence, kansas
So much good
Thank you Veterans
design & production
Katy Ibsen
managing editor
Great job on the latest KANSAS! magazine, Jenn Haugh, et al. So, so many good things. First, the pace of it makes it so dynamic. Love Scott Bean’s photo of Summer Under the Stars. Love the attention to artists, to Atchison, to Pretty Boy Floyds, to trails, to the FLUSH PICNIC!, to the barn quilts, and so much more. Great job. Marci Penner Inman
Facebook & twitter Love this magazine!!! The Prim & Proper Place: Did you see our feature in @ KANSASMag? Now THAT is cool! http://kansasbarnsale. blogspot.com @KansasBarnSale
I really do enjoy and appreciate my KANSAS! Magazine. My daughter Jayna Henderson subscribes for it for my birthday. Page 2 of the summer issue brought tears to my eyes when I saw the Tropical Lightning patches on the combat veteran’s vest and hat. My husband served with Tropical Lightning all through the South Pacific and was in the group that had the record of 165 straight days in combat. He was always so proud of his service to his country. He passed away in 1995. I still have his medals and army patches and his book about the 165 days in combat. I send my many thanks to the pictured veteran and all the other veterans who sacrificed so much for our freedom. Betty Olmsted (Mrs. Richard D. Olmsted) Parsons
send your letters to: Editor, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612 or e-mail ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com
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Shelly Bryant
Designer/art director
Jason Dailey photographer
Bert Hull
general manager
KANSAS! (ISSN 0022-8435) is published quarterly by the Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200 Topeka, KS 66612; (785) 296-3479; TTY Hearing Impaired: (785) 296-3487. Periodical postage paid at Topeka, KS, and at additional mailing offices. Newsstand price $4.99 per issue; subscription price $18 per year; international subscription price $22 per year. All prices include all applicable sales tax. Please address subscription inquiries to: Toll-free: (800) 678-6424 KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146 e-mail: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com Website: www.KansasMag.com POSTMASTER: Send address change to: KANSAS! P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146. Please mail all editorial inquiries to: KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612 e-mail: ksmagazine@sunflowerpub.com The articles and photographs that appear in KANSAS! magazine may not be broadcast, published or otherwise reproduced without the express written consent of Kansas Department of Wildlife, Parks and Tourism or the appropriate copyright owner. Unauthorized use is prohibited. Additional restrictions may apply.
20 Reasons we
kansas
Written by Gloria Gale
Reasons we KANSAS
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From the heart
Wendi and Jenny Unrein, mother and daughter, make a creative team. Together they help each other design and market Jenny’s artistic inspirations for their business, JennyLU Designs. Jenny loves to draw, and though she has Williams Syndrome, a rare genetic handicap, she wants to help others by donating proceeds from sales of her art to various organizations. Jenny’s artwork is a cheerful blend of her own designs that she and her mom sell online, at conferences and art fairs. Notecards, jewelry, calendars and tote bags all feature Jenny’s art. jennyludesigns.com
Autumn begins a time when families come together for various reunions and the seasonal events abound. Share your Reasons to Love Kansas (see page 13).
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It’s Pouring in Winfield
wheatstatewineco.com
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“Once thriving rural Kansas towns are slipping away,” says Marci Penner, executive director of the Kansas Sampler Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to helping sustain growth and vitality in the rural towns of Kansas. The result of Sampler’s grassroots effort led straight to the evolution of Kanstarter, a program matching community needs with volunteerism. “A perfect example is giving the town of Muscotah, population 200, a jumpstart. This town has a rich baseball legacy that we want to capitalize on by helping them create a baseball museum, legacy mural and design the world’s largest baseball from an old water tower,” says Penner. “We urge people to dig deep and give their time and resources. It’s up to all of us to craft a plan of hope not just for Muscotah, but all small towns in Kansas.” kanstarter.com Facebook: facebook.com/pages/Kansas-Explorers-Club twitter: twitter.com/GetRuralKansas
Facebook: facebook.com/wheatstatewineco
One for the books
Photographs: (Clockwise from left) Courtesy of JennyLU Designs, Kaydee Johnson and Nick Mattingly (2), Kansas Sampler Foundation and Kanstarter, Cathy Good.
kansas
The National Register of Historic Places is very picky when it comes to selecting candidates for nomination. The Registry only recognizes properties demonstrating local, state and national significance. Kansas boasts 1,295 historic places on the Registry. One recent inclusion is Oakley High School Stadium. The limestone and concrete stadium, financed through the New Deal-era Works Progress Administration, was nominated for its local significance in the area of architecture and government. Lewis Mershon, the lead builder, used unskilled local labor to complete the structure in 1938. According to the Registry, the stadium exhibits hallmarks of WPA-era Moderne style, known for its symmetrical, vertical, horizontal and rounded features. The stadium continues to host football and track events, as it has since opening in 1939. nps.gov/nr
Reasons we
Laura and Chris Tyler wanted to do something significant on their family’s farmstead, 1876 Spring Hill Farm in Winfield. “With the help of Kansas Grape Growers and Winemakers Association, we learned everything about starting a vineyard. That led to planting four acres of vines in 2008,” says Laura. The result, Wheat State Wine Company, a vineyard and winery, is now producing six different varietals of grapes. “This venture has come so far it’s truly amazing,” Laura says. The operation bottles 400 cases a year and currently sells locally in Wichita. Laura and Chris urge the public to come to Winfield and sample their six wines in Wheat State’s tasting room.
Our towns
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Reasons we
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Commemorate
The Kansas Hall of Fame inducted a new class of honorees on June 21 at the Great Overland Station. Inductees were honored for their iconic status, service to others, and in one case, service to the galaxy. The 2013 Laureates included: Clark Kent/Superman, Drs. C.F., Karl and Will Menninger, 1st Kansas Colored Infantry, KANSAS (the band) and Dr. James Naismith. Bravo! greatoverlandstation.com/ks_hall_of_fame_114.html
Bippity, boppity, BOO
It seems everyone enjoys dressing up for Halloween in Hiawatha. The tradition, which started in 1914, amused local resident Elizabeth Krebs, who decided to hold a party for the costumed youngsters. A parade of trikes and wagons filled the streets, setting in motion a frolicking tradition that continues to this day. Stacy Babb of the Hiawatha Chamber of Commerce says, “It’s still a much-loved community event enjoyed by children and adults. This free parade is the oldest continuous Halloween parade in the nation and features floats, Shriners units, high school bands, dignitaries and costumes galore.” The entire town seems to delight in the event, now celebrating 99 years. hiawathachamber.com
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The University of Kansas has a little more style to brag about. New student magazine Style on the Hill is helping turn Jayhawk Boulevard into the catwalk. Creator Sabrina Liedtke, blogger-turnedpublisher, has an eye for spotting fashion. Look for more trends and culture to follow this new glossy. styleonthehill.com Facebook: facebook.com/styleonthehill
8 The Brown family has bee fever. Their beekeeping operation, one of the largest in Kansas, has been harvesting since 1984. Sharing the benefits of honey, the Browns’ latest product is REVhoney drinks and snacks. According to the family, as an alternative to sports drinks, coffee and soda, REVhoney is “nature’s greenest superfood.” revhoney.com Facebook: facebook.com/revhoney
Photographs: (Clockwise from top left) Shutterstock (2), Hiawatha Chamber, Shutterstock (2), The Hill.
Trendsetters
Golden opportunity
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Herbal infusion
The next time you want to eradicate those pesky dandelions from your yard, Tamara Fairbanks-Ishmael, founding member of the Kaw Valley Herbs Study Group, prefers you don’t. According to Fairbanks-Ishmael, “They’re good medicine.” The Herbs Study Group gathers monthly to learn about the culinary, aromatic, household, medicinal and historic aspects of useful plants. Learn more about herbs the second Tuesday of each month, beginning at 7 p.m. at the Unitarian Fellowship in Lawrence (1263 N. 1100 Rd.). For information, email herbstudygroup@gmail.com
facebook: facebook.com/HerbGroup?fref=ts
kansas
Haute couture on campus
Many visitors are shocked by the magnitude of the Johnson County Community College Fashion Merchandising and Design Department’s top-notch couture collection, which is on display. The enviable collection contains more than 3,000 pieces of unique apparel and accessories dating from the 1880s to the 1990s. Notable designers represented include Christian Dior, Elsa Schiaparelli, Valentino and Norman Norell, among others. The collection is organized by designer and/or decade and is housed at the college’s Carlsen Center. “The collection is used by every class we teach for inspiration, examples of construction, to research historical periods, examples of textiles, and for illustration,” says Joan McCrillis Lafferty, professor and department chair of JCCC’s Fashion Merchandising and Design Department. jccc.edu/fashion facebook: facebook.com/JCCC
House of steel
Reasons we
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Superman may have felt right at home in a Lustron home. Visit an original Lustron home, complete with period mid-century furnishings, on the grounds of the Barton County Historical Museum in Great Bend. As alternatives to brick, stick, and mortar homes, these steel-paneled homes are loaded with modern conveniences and were originally intended for returning World War II servicemen. Lustron homes, built between 1949-1950, were nominally priced at $7,000 and featured sturdy frames with a compact floor plan. http://bartoncountymuseum.org/ Photographs: (Clockwise from top left) Courtesy of Susan mcspadden (2), Stacy Cakes, Shutterstock, Courtesy of Jason Willis (2), Courtesy of Symphony in the Flint Hills, Courtesy of the Barton County Historical Society.
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cake boss
Stacy Mueller is Humboldt’s resident artist, and a sweet one at that. Owner of Stacy Cakes, Mueller is a pastry chef extraordinaire. Specializing in professionally designed cakes, she can craft a custom cake from Disney to Star Wars. Mueller also bakes pies, rolls, cupcakes, breads and savory treats. Her historic downtown Humboldt storefront makes for a great morning stop. stacycakeshumboldt.com
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photo contest
Fifteen grand could be yours just by entering the Share the Experience Photo Contest. Photos must have been taken between January 1, 2011 and December 31, 2013, on lands or within the facilities of the National Park Service, the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service or the U.S. Forest Service. Check the official rules for more details. Follow the official rules, submit your photos and admire others. sharetheexperience.org
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The sound of music
joyfulnoisecamp.org
kansasmag .com • kansas!
kansas
There’s little quibbling that the Tallgrass Prairie in the Flint Hills is one of Kansas’ marvels. The ecological significance alone is noteworthy, something the Joyful Noise Camp brings to the forefront for a one-day engagement. Their mission: “To impart appreciation and knowledge of the Flint Hills of Kansas by inviting families to celebrate by playing music and experiencing the natural world of the Tallgrass Prairie.” Mark your calendar for Saturday, September 28, 2013. This one-day event is filled with music and prairie-based activities and will take place in Elmdale, Kansas at Camp Wood YMCA.
Writer/producer Jason Willis has no qualms about casting his cats in a movie. “In 2012, I decided to make a short film entitled Catnip: Egress to Oblivion? It cost $25 to make and gave me a taste of stardom at the Sundance Film Festival,” says Willis, a Lawrence native. The short film demos the results of the herbal stimulant on Willis’ feline friends. After posting the film online, Willis entered and won a First Friday competition in Tucson, where he now resides. The film grabbed the attention of the American Film Institute, which requested Willis submit his work for consideration at Sundance. “And I won!” he exclaims. The self-proclaimed auteur will now continue producing more short films aided by his $1,000 prize money. “Not only was this a great experience, I would definitely like to thank the Academy!” he jokes. jasonwillis.com
Reasons we
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Cat-a-tonic
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FREE
LIKE SP EECH
snip-n-clip
F5
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Did you know that TravelKS.com offers Coupons? Get community vouchers, deals on dining, and leads for discounts on lodging. Check online before you check-in. travelks.com/travel-tools/coupons/
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Center of the universe
Council Grove Middle School history teacher Mary Myers wanted her seventh graders to dream big while honoring Kansas Day. “Never in our wildest dreams did we expect this response,” says Myers of the student project entitled Where on Earth is Kansas. The task involved writing letters to 51 people throughout Kansas with a goal of learning fun facts and history about various communities. Not only did the project garner an avalanche of responses, the students felt the project needed its own Facebook page for a wider reach. “We were inundated by the responses that continue to pour in. To date, we’ve heard from every town across the state, with over 200,000 people following our page. Students have learned innumerable facts, the power of social media and now realized they’ve reached people not just in their home state but all over the world,” says Myers. facebook.com/WhereOnEarthIsKansas
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Free … like speech
Two Kansas newspapers are getting back to local culture. The Hype Weekly is Manhattan’s source for alternative viewpoints, culture, social and artistic news from around the community. Available only online, The Hype Weekly is the citizen’s platform to news. When Wichita’s F5 newspaper shuttered six years ago, an alternative voice in the community was also silenced. Founder Mike Marlett decided it was time to infuse new life back into the paper. Now the weekly is back with a presence online and on the street. In addition to announcing what’s happening in art, film, food and music, the paper opens a dialogue from an alternative source. thehypeweekly.com, f5paper.com
Photographs: (Clockwise from top left) Shutterstock, F5 and Mike Briley (2), Shutterstock, Courtesy of Photo 1, Shutterstock.
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VFW
A tip of the hat to the many local VFWs across Kansas that continue to welcome veterans home and honor those who have served. If you are interested in joining your local VFW, visit the Department of Kansas Veterans of Foreign Wars. ksvfw.org
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Voices rising
❤
REASONS WE LOVE KANSAS
Send your “Reasons We Love Kansas” to ksreasons@sunflowerpub.com
or to Reasons, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612.
kansas
topekafestivalsingers.org
Reasons we
Harmonies seem to float effortlessly when the Topeka Festival Singers perform. The 45-singer choral group entertains four times a year with fall, winter and spring concerts held at Washburn University’s White Concert Hall. Conductor Myles Criss and accompanist Richard Gayhart formed the all-volunteer group, now enjoying its 29th season, in 1984. In 1987, Dr. Kevin Kellim was invited to serve as the conductor. Together the ensemble performs the classics, show tunes and contemporary music.
find more events at travelks.com
SEK Art Fest
Cowgirl Getaway
Yoder Heritage Day
Pittsburg June 1-September 1
Bucklin August 15-16
Yoder August 24
The free SEK Art Fest is an outdoor art exhibit held in downtown Pittsburg. This year’s event, “Mining Memories,” will feature more than 20 oversized coal buckets lining each side of Pittsburg’s Broadway Street.
Girls, leave your cowboy at home and head out with another gal to the ranch. This is for the ladies only. The cowgirls will be enjoying the ranching life by learning skills, riding horseback, moving longhorns, watching for wildlife, cooking with Dutch ovens, and harnessing and driving a team of horses. The event begins at 7 a.m.
Visitors to Yoder’s Heritage Day festivities are entertained by tractor pulls, horse drawn events, the annual parade down Main Street, quilt auction, buggy races, and great food. The event begins at 6 a.m. (620) 960-0439
sekartfest.com
Southwest Kansas Pro-Am Tournament
moorelonghornranch.com
Garden City August 7-11
fall 2013 KANSAS EVENTS
The Southwest Kansas Pro-Am raises thousands of dollars each year for the newborn intensive care and pediatric units of St. Catherine Hospital. Set on two of the finest golf courses in the state, the event is hosted by one of Kansas’ most friendly communities, Garden City. Professionals are invited to five days of great tournament play, social events and festivities.
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southwestkansasproam.org
19th Century vintage baseball game Abilene August 10 The 5th annual vintage baseball game will be played on the grounds of the Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum. The Abilene Iron Cutters will once again face the Wichita Cowtown 9. Both teams will wear uniforms from the 1860s. The game will begin at 1 p.m. eisenhower.archives.gov
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Float your boat cardboard boat races Junction City August 17 Are you ready to rock the boat? This event asks contestants to build a boat out of only cardboard and duct tape that is capable of holding two to six people. The boat is then launched and paddled on a set course. Contestants can win trophies and cash prizes. The event is held in conjunction with the Milford Lake Extreme Outdoor Water Festival. The race starts at 2 p.m. Admission is free. junctioncity.org
National BBQ Derby Derby September 6-7 The 3rd Annual National Bar-B-Que Derby offers more than $10,000 in cash and prizes. A people’s choice competition gives spectators the chance to try five samples of barbecue for $5 and vote for their favorite. The event begins Friday, September 6 at 5 p.m. derbyweb.com/nationalbarbquederby
Kansas State Fair 100th birthday
Hutchinson September 6-15 It’s the 100th birthday of the Kansas State Fair. The 2013 U.S. Cellular Grandstand lineup is going to throw a great birthday bash for two weeks at the Kansas State Fairgrounds with national musicians and unforgettable acts. Admission required. kansasstatefair.com
Showdown on the Plains BBQ Challenge & air show Scott City September 6-7 This official KCBS-sanctioned barbecue competition features free airplane rides for kids. Other events include a new air show, tandem parachute jumps and a hangar dance. In addition to the barbecue competition, there will be music and activities for kids. The event begins at 1 p.m. showdownbbq.com
13th Annual Big Bass Challenge Hays September 14 Anglers rejoice at Wilson Lake State Park for fishing and free barbecue. Fishermen compete in hourly weigh-ins with prizes awarded to the winners. Entry form required. Checkin begins at 4:30 a.m. haysbass.com
Dillon Lecture Series Hutchinson September 24 The Dillon Lecture Series welcomes Lt. Joe Schillaci. Schillaci has 24 years of law enforcement experience with a specialization in criminal investigation. The homicide detective tours the country with his anti-bullying message. Tickets are $10. The event begins at 10:30 a.m. (620) 665-3505
The 35th Annual prairie Festival Salina September 27-28 Kicking off with the traditional barn dance and bonfire, The Land Institute commences its Prairie Festival for the 35th year. Hosting lectures and live entertainment, guests are welcome to camp and learn more about the land. Begins Friday at 8 p.m., admission required. thelandinstitute.com
Ottawa September 14 Sunflower Piecemakers 29th Annual Quilt Show features over 170 quilts and a live miniature quilt auction. Admission is required. The event begins at 10 a.m. visitottawakansas.com
Bricks, Broncs & BBQ Russell September 20-21 Enjoy a Kansas City Barbeque Society-sanctioned event in downtown Russell. Events include cook-offs and 5K and 10K fun runs. Prizes will be awarded for best meat, best decorated and local’s choice. Admission is $5. Begins at 7 a.m. russellmainstreet.com
Illustrations: Shutterstock
Whimmydiddle Arts & Crafts Fair Scott City September 28 Named after a wooden toy, the whimmydiddle, this fair features artists from across the United States. The open-air event in Patton Park showcases original art, metalworking, pottery and crafts in wood, fabric, jewelry, silk and dried flowers. The event begins at 9 a.m.
Baxter Springs October 5-6 At this event, military units will encamp at the Fort Blair site and at the Heritage Center site for the 150th anniversary of Quantrill’s arrival in Baxter Springs and the eventual massacre of almost 100 Union soldiers and sympathizers. Visitors can experience this reenactment by strolling through the military camps and interacting with the “soldiers.” The event is free and RSVP is requested. baxterspringsmuseum.org
10th Annual Cookin’ on the Kaw BBQ Contest DeSoto October 11 The 10th Annual KCBS-sanctioned Cookin’ on the Kaw BBQ Contest takes place at Riverfest Park. Enjoy some fantastic blues music and watch barbecue teams in action. For $5, visitors can enter the people’s choice contest, sample barbecue and vote on their favorite. The event begins at 5 p.m. desotoks.org
Santa Fe Trail Center tired iron Show Larned October 12-13
http://whimmydiddle.org
Experience farming techniques from the past at this event. The show features demonstrations of old-fashioned wheat threshing, blacksmithing, stone-ground flour milling, corn shelling and more. See working antique tractors and gas engines, and experience class in a one-room schoolhouse. The event begins at 9 a.m. santafetrailcenter.org kansasmag .com • kansas!
fall 2013 KANSAS EVENTS
Sunflower Piecemakers Quilt Show
150th Anniversary Encampment
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Table for 20 KANSAS! magazine tips its hat to some of the state’s best eats
From barbecue to breakfast, gourmet to cozies, beer to bread and longtime favorites that will always make our list—we present 20 of our favorite eats. Dig in, no lobster bib required for this delectable course.
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Photograph by Michael C. Snell
KANSAS! magazine set out to find the tastiest, most fashionable, delicious, cocktail-driven, cozy, groovy, jeans-and-boots, local, fresh and authentic restaurants in Kansas. With the help of a small handselected Editorial Panel (of Kansas purists), we narrowed the list down and asked readers to vote. What came next was an explosion of dedicated foodies happy to chime in.
please! 0
the list starts here:
Gella’s Diner & Lb.Brewing Co. Hays
Possibly Kansas’ best-kept secret is Gella’s Diner & Lb. Brewing Co. Awardwinning beer waits for visitors, as it can only be found at the brewery and at beer festivals. Garnering multiple honors for its various brews (such as gold medals from the Great American Beer Festival), Lb. Brewing Co. is on beer-enthusiasts’ radars, and the diner is merely the cherry on top. The crisp design of the diner is refreshing among Kansas’ plains. The menu features some German fare, brewery dishes and a personal favorite, pub chips. lbbrewing.com -Katy Ibsen e ag ep n th Tur
to rea lly get your taste
buds going
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715
lawrence
Uptown chic is alive and well in Lawrence, where 715 is treating diners to an innovative American/Italian menu in a stylish environment on Massachusetts Street. The “classic cocktail” revolution hit the establishment quickly. The Basil Rickey, with cucumber-infused gin, fresh basil, lavender, lime, and sugar, is a seasonal treat. A variety of pork and fish creations by Michael Beard dance on and off of the menu throughout the year, but a staple that has never gone out of style is the cauliflower soup— perfect any time of the year. 715mass.com -Katy Ibsen
Thanks to our Editorial Panel, who have traveled far and wide throughout Kansas. Their input helped us stop dreaming of tacos and focus on the task at hand. May we present them with an honorary Foodie title.
Lisa Waterman Gray Kansas writer, author of An Explorer’s Guide: Kansas
Jane P. Marshall Communications coordinator, instructor, College of Human Ecology at Kansas State University
Dennis Schiel Kansas artist
Harland J. Schuster Midwest photographer WenDee LaPLant Assistant Director, Kansas Sampler Foundation
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Photographs: (Clockwise from left) Jason Dailey (2), Aaron East, Jason Dailey
el an
Ribs! Chefs save as many ribs throughout the year as they can from inhouse butchering. Therefore when they hit the menu, they go fast.
Editorial P
Pho Hoa One garden city
Opened in 1987 by owner Khanh Nguyen, Pho Hoa One provides world cuisine and a chance to experience another world. Offering a large array of authentic Vietnamese dishes with the freshest ingredients, favorites include such delights as authentic pho, spring rolls and crispy egg rolls. “This restaurant and the family that run it opened up another world and exposed me to a culture I wouldn’t have otherwise gotten to know living in rural western Kansas,” says WenDee LaPlant, assistant director of the Kansas Sampler Foundation. “They truly have become part of the community fabric and are so well thought of by everyone who eats there.” 713 E Fulton St., Garden City, (620) 276-3393. -Amy Conkling Eight Wonders of Kansas Cuisine—Pho Hoa One is just one of eight restaurants that have been honored by Kansans and the Kansas Sampler Foundation as one of the best. Diners know from experience that the food is worth the wait, travel and experience. kansassampler.org/8wonders
Oklahoma Joe’s kansas city, kansas
The Breadbasket Newton
While traveling through eclectic downtown Newton, be on the lookout for the famous chef statue that sits outside The Breadbasket. Boasting German specialties on a small chalkboard, the line-up includes: Fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth zwieback (crisp sweet bread) and other homemade breads with apple butter, and Verenika with ham gravy Yoder German sausage German potato salad German chocolate cake Cherry moos Even traditional bohne berroggi (similar to a lightly fried donut soaked in a rich butter-cream sweet sauce. One would never know they’re filled with mashed pinto beans).
Free State Brewing Co. lawrence
Free State Brewing Co. proudly accepts the mantra “Without beer, things do not seem to go as well.” Many visitors and Kansans have enjoyed the beers, which are bottled and sold throughout the country, but the expansive menu remains in Lawrence. Original pastas, fish & chips, onion rings, ciabatta sandwiches, and creative salads keep hungry patrons full. The rotating specials are the “it girl” at Free State, though; California fish tacos, pulled pork, Reubens, Buttermilk Fried Chicken and more make this a culinary destination. Of course, all are delicious with a cold pint. freestatebrewing.com - Katy Ibsen
Don’t leave without enjoying the local oil paintings by Bobbie Hague or the homemade breads, cinnamon rolls and scrumptious pies that feature buttery, thicker-than-most crusts. newtonbreadbasket.com -Amy Conkling
Oklahoma Joe’s in Kansas City, Kansas admirably doles out meaty fare true to form. The succulent meats are basted, braised, charred and chopped, deservedly boosting Kansas City’s reputation as a barbecue mecca. Roughly 900,000 pounds of brisket, 400,000 pounds of pork butt and 200,000 slabs of ribs are chowed down annually. The Kansas City gas station-turned-restaurant is where owners Jeff Stehney and his wife, Joy, cleverly combine necessities to fill you up. Served quickly, forget being tidy. Whether it’s a Z-Man pulled pork sandwich on a toasted kaiser bun or short ends, simply dig in elbows up or down—no one cares. Food celebrity Anthony Bourdain said it best: “In Kansas City, barbecue is serious business.” This Joe is laughing all the way to the bank. oklahomajoesbbq.com -Gloria Gale
Pittsburg is easily the unofficial Fried Chicken Capital of Kansas, boasting the famed Chicken Annie’s (the original, Girard, Pichler’s), Barto’s Idle Hour and Chicken Mary’s. Featured on the Travel Channel’s “Food Wars,” these stops gained national acclaim for frying up a whole-lotta-chicken. But did you know, the local Frontenac Bakery provides bread crumbs to the restaurants for their crispy skin? It’s truly a local endeavor with a flavorful reward (no matter which one you choose).
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Williamsburg
The tableware at Guy & Mae’s is humble: sheets of newsprint and smoke-tinged sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil, plastic cutlery, Styrofoam cups, and a pop-up box of paper napkins. But it’s not the tableware that draws diners to Guy & Mae’s, it’s the barbecue. Their slabs of ribs are slow-cooked directly over a hickory fire and feature a garden-fresh homemade barbecue sauce that is a closely guarded family secret. Situated in a century-old downtown storefront adjacent to the Williamsburg Masonic Hall and City Hall, Guy & Mae’s Tavern has been a dining destination since 1973. Political bumper stickers dating to the early ’90s cover the glass cooler doors, dated girly pinups wallpaper the walls of the small kitchen, and cryptic messages scrawled across dollar bills flutter along the ceiling. It’s a living time capsule. Guy and Mae Kesner started the tradition that their daughter, Judy Simpson, and their granddaughter and her husband, Lori and Ty Thompson, run today. The family stays true to their culinary roots, making real barbecue and following Mae’s original sauce recipe; however, they did switch from Guy’s preferred Kansas City-style barbecue to hand-trimmed St. Louis cut ribs for more consistent cooking. Ty fires up the hickory oven early, at times as early as 3 a.m. to meet the demands of large catered events. On an average summer week they go through 800-900 slabs of ribs, 30-40 gallons of sauce, and several five-gallon buckets of pickles. Other menu items include sandwiches and classic sides like barbecued beans and potato salad. For barbecue purists, Guy & Mae’s has become a religion. Doc Severinsen, bandleader of Johnny Carson’s Tonight Show, discovered Guy & Mae’s while attending a Kansas City Jazz Festival. He’s been a regular customer ever since. 119 W William St., Williamsburg. (785) 746-8830 -Sally Snell
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manhattan
When you’re good at what you do, it gets noticed. In Scott Benjamin’s case, 4 Olives Restaurant & Wine Bar is more than just a local favorite for wine and new American Cuisine—it’s a James Beard Award semi-finalist. See our story on Kansas’ James Beard honorees on page 56. Dishes are made with the freshest seafood possible, as well as locally raised meats and game. Everything is made in-house and vegetarian dishes, as well as gluten, nut and dairy-free options, can be requested. For cocktails, Benjamin’s team uses pre-Prohibition methods and the finest ingredients, including homemade bitters, syrups and even tonic. fourolives.biz -Lou Ann Thomas
Hays House
council grove
What makes Hays House a treat is its location. On the front porch of the Flint Hills, Hays House executes country-fried chicken, homemade mashed potatoes, vegetables, and home-cooked specialties on its buffet. Don’t miss the pie—it’s easily the best dish. Make Hays House a stop on your tour of the Flint Hills. Rubbing elbows with local ranchers and farmstead owners adds to the local experience, not to mention the decades of history. hayshouse.com -Katy Ibsen
Sweet Siam lenexa
A fresh ambiance coupled with a fusion of delicious food characterizes the modern Thai bistro Sweet Siam in Lenexa. The reason is simple; owner Michael Brillhart knows exactly how to please. Brillhart spent years as a kitchen manager in Birmingham, Alabama and Atlanta so he’s familiar with the back of the house. However, since moving back to Kansas City, this Shawnee Mission East graduate now has a place he can call his own. The philosophy is simple: Serve good food, reasonably priced, with honesty and efficiency. The restaurant’s Thai chefs even insist on growing herbs in the outdoor garden. Sweet Siam’s menu begins with a slew of tempting appetizers: the fresh Basil Rolls, Yum Woon Sen and the ground pork with hot chili peppers NamSod. After sampling the appetizers, move along to the breast of duck distilled in a satisfying basil broth or the Ka Proud Lamb split into chargrilled chops. Yellow, Green, Panang and red curries are plentiful. The pan-fried or steamed snapper, a house specialty, shouldn’t be overlooked. Sweet undertones in sauces and spice prevail at this small bistro. This is most masterfully realized in the mile-high coconut cake that Brillhart proclaims “is the best in the city.” Who are we to argue? sweetsiam.com -Gloria Gale
Photographs: (Clockwise from left) Michael C. Snell, Lou Ann Thomas, Jason Dailey (2)
Guy & Mae’s
4 Olives Restaurant &Wine Bar
WheatFields lawrence
Sister restaurant to Free State Brewing Co., this bakery and café offers an inventive local menu with flavorful creations. A line extends out the front door during breakfast and lunch, while an evolving dinner menu treats diners each week. WheatFields hits the mark with an extensive menu of breads and desserts. Racks upon racks sell out almost every day of country French, kalamata olive, pain de campagne, sourdough rye, spelt bread, and the list goes on. Best of all, there is no limit to the number of loaves purchased (or enjoyed). Don’t forget the specialty weekly menu featuring brioche, challah and boiled bagels on Sunday. wheatfieldsbakery.com -Katy Ibsen
Honorable Mentions While these didn’t make our list, they should make yours.
RowHouse | Topeka
“I fell in love with the RowHouse the first time I ate here. Chef Greg Fox is a visionary that makes every fixed-course menu a unique dining experience. Go at least once each season to see the true culinary accomplishments among Fox and his team.” – Managing Editor, Katy Ibsen
Big Ed’s Steakhouse | Bird City
“Big Ed’s is an old pool hall atmosphere without the pool tables. People travel from all over Kansas, Colorado and Nebraska to enjoy a great steak.” – Artist, Dennis Schiel
Emma Chase Café | Cottonwood Falls
“Good 'home cooked', stick-to-your-ribs type meals served here in beautiful downtown Cottonwood Falls. Or you can show up for coffee, oh, about 9 or 10 each morning, and hear the world's problems discussed and solved. Especially perplexing or vexing world problems require two cups of coffee. As a bonus, you may hear how to pull a calf or cure a horse of colic mixed in with the discussion.” –Photographer, Harland J. Schuster
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Toto’s Tacoz wamego
Fresh and fun is the mode of operando at Toto’s Tacoz in Wamego. Large multi-colored patio umbrellas hang from the 12-foot original tin ceilings, and patio tables provide seating inside. Wizard of Oz posters, cut-outs, signage—and even a large mural of a tiny Toto catching an ocean wave on the south wall—greet diners as soon as they walk through the door.
Simply, it’s Toto meets Jimmy Buffett. The West Coast Fresh Mex menu welcomes visitors with creative creations from the large 12-inch “Bust My Buttons” burrito to the smaller “Hunk’s Burrito.” Everything at Toto’s is homemade— salsas, guacamole, beans, rice, etc.— which owners, Craig and Colleen Lord, pride themselves on. Find your way to this Yellow Brick inspired eatery. totostacoz.com -Lou Ann Thomas
Brookville Hotel abilene
Helen Martin hatched the idea of a family-style chicken diner in 1915 in Brookville, where her parents had been operating a restaurant in the hotel since 1894. She later took over the business, and eventually passed it down to fourthgeneration owners Mark and Connie Martin. More than a decade ago, the Martins relocated The Brookville Hotel to Abilene. The new structure replicates the original restaurant’s historic character, including the familiar 1870s façade of the hotel’s whitewashed wooden front. The Brookville Hotel’s marquee meal is legendary. It contains the following: skillet-fried chicken ( family recipe), mashed potatoes with cream gravy, cream-style corn, baking powder biscuits with creamy butter and preserves, sweet-sour coleslaw, relishes, and home-style ice cream served on Blue Willow china. “The chicken is dipped in a milk bath, rolled in a mixture of flour, salt and pepper, and then fried in pure lard in a large skillet,” says Mark. Many flock to the establishment for the flavorful side dishes, especially the cream-style corn and sweet-sour coleslaw. Whipped cream is an important ingredient in both recipes, which Mark says were handed down from his grandmother and his great-grandmother, Mae Magnuson. brookvillehotel.com -Cecilia Harris
nd Railway operates excursion line originally constructed in n rides feature an over 20trip from Baldwin Citylawrence via A fast cult favorite, the small menu of gourmet Kansas” to Ottawa Junction, burgers and decadent fries had everyone talking. aveling through scenic Eastern Kobe beef burger, truffle fries, catfish pomland and woods via vintage boy, corn dog, black bean burger … and so uipment. The Midland Railway on. Grab a can of PBR at the bar and know etely volunteer-staffed, non-profit 501c3, common carrier that a hat, T-shirt and jeans is more than perated to preserve and display transportation history acceptable at this deliciously hip burger joint.as an al demonstration railroad. Join us for a train ride – bring the thecasbahburgerstand.com ily! We are in easy reach of Kansas City, Overland Park, –Katy Ibsen tawa and Lawrence, Topeka, and nearby communities. Normal excurions trains June-October every year.
The Burger Stand
Special Events Include; KANSAS Easter Bunny Train
destinations Thomas the Tank Engine &Haunted attractions Halloween Train
Be sure to call ahead for complete directions. Santa Express
There is plenty to see and do in Kansas.
Midland Railway Historical Association Join us for a train ride -bring the whole family! Normal excursioN traiNs Midland Railway Historical JuNe Association - october
Beethoven’s #9 paola
Baldwin City Winfield
special events include:
Operations Beginning Late 2012!
Authentic southern German cuisine is waiting for you in Paola. Beethoven’s #9 features bratwurst, schniztels, stroganoff and sauerbrauten, dishes that co-owner Ulrike Poetter describes as more “eye appealing” than the fish-based dishes of her native Hamburg. They bake the restaurant’s pillowy rolls from scratch in a state-of-the-art kitchen, over-producing to form bread-crumb coatings for dishes like the Jaeger Schnitzel, a breaded and pan-fried pork loin topped with creamy mushroom sauce.
1515 W. High Street Baldwin City, 66006-0005 • RailKSFest Phone (913)Halloween 721-1211 Train • Haunted Depot (785) • Santa594-6982 Express www.midlandrailway.org
• Easter Bunny Train
The Midland Railway operates excursion trains on a line originally constructed in 1867. Train rides feature an over 20mile round trip from Baldwin City via “Norwood, Kansas” to Ottawa Junction, Kansas, traveling through scenic Eastern Kansas farmland and woods via vintage railway equipment. The Midland Railway is a completely volunteer-staffed, non-profit 501c3, common carrier railroad operated to preserve and display transportation history as an educational demonstration railroad. Join us for a train ride – bring the whole family! We are in easy reach of Kansas City, Overland Park, Olathe, Ottawa and Lawrence, Topeka, and nearby communities. Normal excurions trains June-October every year.
1515 High St. Baldwin City, KS Phone (913) 721-1211 Depot (785) 594-6982 www.midlandrailway.org
Special Events Include; Easter Bunny Train Thomas the Tank Engine Haunted Halloween Train Santa Express
Photographs: (Clockwise from left) Cathy Mores, Jason Dailey, Michael C. Snell (2)
A long running tradition of 24 yeras is coming to Baldwin City, KS Operations
Beginning 5-course evening Dinner Meals & casual Sunday 3-course meal Late 2012! Reminisce as you travel in our 1940’s Era decorated cars A long running tradition of 24 yeras is coming to Baldwin City, KS Big Band Era Music 5-course evening Dinner Meals & casual Sunday 3-course meal Reminisce as you travel in our 1940’s Era decorated cars Live entertainment Big Band Era Music RK Specials are listed on a chalkboard near the hostess stand, which Live entertainment WINFIELD ART IN THE PA MurderSpecials mystery Murder mystery plays sits next to a glowering bust of Beethoven. include plays Kansas-made October 5, 2013 WWII USO shows bratwurst, various sausages and dishes with their own homegrown Melodrama Performances showschef Patrick Island Park, Winfield, KS tomatoes. Ulrike’s co-owner is alsoWWII her son,USO professional Poetter, who is the mastermind these dishes.Performances • Outdoor art festival Melodrama behind • Entertainment www.KansasBelle.com The homey décor expresses a sense of coziness, which is reinforced
with vintage embroidered tablecloths, mix-and-match wood dining sets, and distress-painted hutches. Depictions of German village scenes in framed needlepoint—and even a human-sized nutcracker—leave little doubt as to the restaurant’s heritage. Beethoven’s has existed in several locations in downtown Paola and has been in operation for nearly two decades. The restaurant office@KansasBelle.com is currently located in an 1800s building that offers views of Paola’s courthouse square. beethovens-paola.com -Sally Snell
office@KansasBelle.com
eld Convention & Tourism Sponsored in part by Winfi
www.KansasBelle.com 800.942.7245
Beethoven #9’s selection of German import beers outnumbers domestics three to one. Besides traditional German fare, menu options include steak and Italian dishes. The family works to honor special requests, like glutenfree options, and even lamb if the request is made in advance.
800.942.7245 • Children’s 785. 594.8505 art activities • Food vendors • Juried Show
12 x 12 booth for $40
For more information, gmail.com ts@ juried show us e-mail at winfieldar call (620) 221-2161, send eld www.winfi arts.com
785. 594.8505
MUSIC MINI FEST Baden Square 700 Gary Winfield, KS
Tuesday before the Walnut Festival Performers from the Walnut Festival come to provide music to school kids, community, veterans, and festival goers from 9 am to 3 pm. Reservations for large groups is required. For more information, call
620 221-2161, winfieldarts@gmail.com www.winfieldarts.com Sponsored in part by Winfield Convention & Tourism
The Chef Manhattan
Classic breakfast favorites and chalkwritten specials lure hungry patrons into The Chef.
There is no doubt the Harrises have created one of Manhattan’s favorite breakfast spots, especially on weekends, when the wait for a table can reach over an hour. Breakfast purists wait for dishes like the Buenos Dias Frittata, which features chorizo, pico de gallo and jack cheese with sour cream and a homemade chipotle sauce. The spicy chorizo is balanced with plenty of vegetables and served with shredded hash browns or the house-made roasted potatoes. The potatoes are perfectly roasted so that the skins remain crispy but the insides are soft and tender. thechefcafe.com -Lou Ann Thomas
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Photographs: (Clockwise from left) Cathy Mores (2), Ze Bernardinello, Michael C. Snell (2)
A fried-egg clock hangs on the wall in front of the side counter as recycled Maglite flashlights and colander shades illuminate the petite downtown eatery. Behind the operation are owners Kurstin and Kevin Harris.
Luciano’s mulvane
The Cozy Inn Salina
It’s okay to fill up on “Cozies” at The Cozy Inn, a tiny Salina eatery with a huge reputation. With just six stools at the counter, the diner began serving “sliders,” an old-time nickname given to burgers that fry cooks placed on waxed paper and slid down the counter to customers. Nearly a century later, the recipe remains unchanged. The miniature burgers (the patty is the size of the palm of a hand) are large on taste, thanks to the seasoned, decades-old grill on which each is cooked. Only salt and pepper are added to the freshly-ground lean beef grilled alongside onions that are then heaped on top of the cooked patty, which is placed on a steamed bun. A pickle and a squirt each of mustard and ketchup add the finishing touches. “They are little bites of heaven,” says owner Steve Howard. “You can get a bigger bite of burger, but you can’t get a bigger taste.” The price is also small—just 89 cents per burger. Many “buy ’em by the sack” as suggested on the bright red, neon sign that draws customers to The Cozy Inn’s small white stucco building. cozyburger.com -Cecilia Harris
LittleApple Brewing Company
Harry's
manhattan
There is one thing you want at Harry’s—the burger. The fine dining establishment in the historic Wareham Hotel knows how to woo those in search of a fancy feast, but no one regrets ordering the burger over more refined options. The handpressed beef patty is made from freshground American Kobe Wagyu beef. It’s chargrilled to order, topped with crispy bacon, mozzarella cheese, iceberg lettuce and Roma tomatoes before being placed on an onion bun toasted with foie gras herb butter ancho chili aioli for a little kick. On the side? Crispy fried potatoes. Don’t miss this dish aptly found in beef country. harrysmanhattan.com -Lou Ann Thomas
manhattan
It’s about more than craft beer at the Little Apple Brewing Co. In an effort to offer food just as good as their beer, the team grows their own herbs onsite. This kind of farm-to-table initiative allows the owners, Russ and Kelly Loub and Galen and Lori Fink, to be proud of the establishment they have built. The menu includes a few savory dishes, such as half-pound Certified Angus burgers and steaks, Maryland crab cakes and southern-style catfish. The restaurant’s twist, however, is on the White Menu. The local and seasonal White Menu includes fresh Scottish salmon, which is served with smashed red potatoes and finished with a slightly lemony cream sauce with dill, tarragon, chives and parsley fresh from the garden. Also included on the White Menu are homemade desserts. The pretzel-crusted caramel brownie features the restaurant’s own stout beer ice cream, which adds a smoky depth to the cold creaminess. littleapplebrewery.com -Lou Ann Thomas
Tucked away in little ‘ol Mulvane is an Italian destination unlike any other in Kansas (or the world for that matter). The savory authentic dishes are the gift of Luciano Mottola, who grew up in Viareggio and arrived in the United States in 2003. He fell in love with Mulvane, and that passion inspires his food. All plates offer a taste leaving diners wanting more, such as the rich Luciano’s family recipe meat sauce, but we especially love the parmesan cheese bowl served with the insalates. An extensive wine list and chef ’s dinners treat diners to something special in south-central Kansas. restaurantlucianos.com -Katy Ibsen
Add to your dining experience and visit when local musician Kentucky White is performing on the patio, and stop in to the Bartlett Arboretum on your way home. Luciano’s is just a slice of the Mulvane experience.
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License Eat
2
Wichita’s food truck revolution is serving up gourmet fare to satisfy the pickiest gourmand
Photography by Ze Bernardinello
Cruising into small and large communities across Kansas, fancy food trucks are gaining traction with a new kind of hand-held fare—trendy, on-the-go eats with a gourmet twist. In Wichita, the number of new roving restaurants is quickly accelerating, with nearly a dozen savvy chefs taking their culinary skills on the road to fuel hungry diners with gourmet fare. These establishments map their locations and post their menus daily on social networking sites such as Facebook and Twitter, allowing diners to track down their favorites or test-ride new flavors from the trucks. Don’t miss the Food Truck Rally at Wichita’s WaterWalk the last Sunday of each month. According to David Schoenhals, owner of Cake Face Bake Shop and Deli food truck, don’t expect to see the typical concessions. “We all consider ourselves different from the typical food wagons because we all have our special recipes, our special items that we make,” Schoenhals says of his fellow roaming restaurateurs enjoying the ride of the food truck craze.
Cake Face Bake Shop The Schoenhals’ own strawberry rhubarb jam accompanies honey ham with feta and Swiss cheese in a sandwich David and his wife, Summer, call The Count. The owners of Cake Face serve bakery items and more from a tiny trailer with a vintage pin-up on the side. “We like the old look because all of our recipes are old-school,” David says. “A lot of the recipes we use are from our grandparents or other relatives, or are ones we find that are old.” The couple’s own special mix of spices seasons chicken blended with toasted pecans, minced onions, celery, craisins, jazz apples and honey for their Cranberry Pecan Chicken Salad Sandwich, one of the most popular sellers. Cake Face also is famous for its sweet treats—especially the Turkish macaroons in flavors such as red velvet, pistachio and bourbon vanilla. David points out these macaroons use a cashew base, which gives the confections “more of a bite” than the almond base of French macaroons. Also on board are such desserts as sea salted chocolate chip monster cookies, maple bacon cupcakes, and cappuccino brownies. cakefacewichita.com
The Flying Stove Jeff and Rob Schauf’s The Flying Stove has been around the block . Rob, a culinary school graduate, worked in fine dining restaurants in California before he and Jeff decided to transport the specialty food truck concept to their hometown. “We started the food truck because we wanted the opportunity to visit new places and the freedom to be creative with our menus,” Jeff says, adding that they prefer to park in different parts of the city rather than having a regular route. “The greatest advantage of operating a food truck is that we get to go to where the people are, instead of being in a stuck location. And the advantage for our customers is that sooner or later we’ll be near them.” The Flying Stove offers a rotating menu that Jeff says changes every three to four weeks and “is inspired by fresh seasonal ingredients and whatever we’re inspired by at the time.” Among the specialties are a Moroccanflavored McRockin’ Burger of lamb and beef, harissa tossed tomato onion salad, feta and raita, and an ancient whole grain salad of farro tossed with walnut arugula pesto and marinated cherry tomatoes, charred cauliflower and burrata. “The one thing that we always try to offer, due to demand, is our truffle fries tossed with parmesan and fresh thyme,” Jeff says. theflyingstove.com facebook.com/theflyingstove twitter.com/theflyingstove
B.S. Sandwich Press Another of the first rolling restaurants to start its ignition here was B.S. Sandwich Press, Wichita’s first New School (culinary school in New York) food truck, offering gourmet panini sandwiches, hand-cut fries and homemade potato chips. Inside a bright orange trailer, the brother-and-sister team of Jodi and Doug Buchanan serve up lunch and dinner. “We were actually inspired by the Food Network’s Great Food Truck Race,” Jodi says, adding that they felt driven to open an eatery but knew it could mean a bumpy road ahead. “It’s risky to open a restaurant, so we decided to try the mobile thing because it’s not near as big of an investment.” Each panini sandwich consists of an ingredient-stuffed French hoagie bun slathered with olive oil and placed on a grill. Two favorites are the Angry Bird, which includes cheddar cheese and bacon on turkey with mayonnaise, baby spinach and tomatoes; and the Raspey Bird, featuring a raspberry-jalapeno cream cheese blend on turkey with fresh greens and red onions. “We hand-cut all of our fries, and we sell out every day,” Jodi says of another of their specialties. “And we also have beerbattered fried pickle spears pickled with jalapenos that are out of this world.” facebook.com/bssandwichpress
MMM ... Sandwiches Owner Michael Awesome-Noyes barbecues and smokes much of the meat used in his sandwich creations, and they are served with his own unique sauces from a silver truck emblazoned with the name Mmm … Sandwiches. “I’m known for my Cuban and my ICT Turkey,” Michael says of his most popular sandwiches. The Cuban is black forest ham, smoked pork loin, Swiss cheese and a jalapeno-pineapple Dijon pressed on ciabatta bread. “My ICT Turkey is certainly an introduction for people who don’t like to experiment too crazily,” he says. “You got your turkey, bacon, swiss, lettuce, tomato, onion and a garlic ranch mayo I make up that’s also on a ciabatta. I also do a Veggie Melt with cumin-dusted veggies, a mix of asparagus, mushrooms and French green beans and my own Kansas red pesto.” His creations are influenced by various places he’s lived, such as his barbecue pulled pork sandwich with a honey cilantro slaw that reflects his time in South Carolina. Michael says he got into the food truck business because of his own desire for tastier fast food. “I found that when I went out to get something to eat quickly on the go it was fairly bland, and I always wanted something with a little more flavor.” facebook.com/MmmSandwiches Abilene writer Cecilia Harris plans to steer toward the next Food Truck Rally in Wichita to sample the truckload of flavors.
KANSAS galleries Manhattan
Wichita There is plenty to see and do in Kansas. Be sure to call ahead for complete directions.
Topeka Humboldt Lawrence
Fine Arts Unique • Affordable • Functional Featuring the original handmade works of local, regional and national artisans. Pottery • Blown Glass • Jewelry • Woodwork • Textiles and much more
Visit us in beautiful downtown Lawrence, Kansas! 825 Massachusetts street Lawrence Ks - 785.843.0080 Also shop at:
www.phoenixgalleryks.com
advertise
in KANSAS! Magazine For details contact Bert Hull (888) 497-8668 sunpubads@sunflowerpub.com
our town Colby
our town
colby ★
Kansas’ western prairies attract families and historians Photography by Josie Alexander
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kansas! •
fa ll 2013
meet a local
C
onsidered an “Oasis on the Plains,” Colby welcomes visitors with a kind handshake and friendly face. Founded in 1885, the community features a great deal of history, which includes many buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. Among its attractions, most notable is the Prairie Museum of Art and History.
visitors while sunlight filters through the windows. Decorating the ceiling, strings of Christmas lights hang from rafters—remnants from barn dances, receptions, and concerts. The barn is even on the Kansas Sampler Foundation’s list of 8 Wonders of Kansas Architecture. “I challenge you to stand in that barn and look at the ceiling and see if you can find one knot in any piece of wood,” says Ralph Fischer, manager of the Colby Visitor Center. “You can’t. It was all premium lumber that was used.” Nicol School and a small playground stand in front of the barn. “Schools bring classes to have school for the day and let them experience what it was really like back then. It’s really fun,” says Leilani Thomas, director of the Colby Convention and Visitors Bureau. Next to the school are a sod-house and a small white church. Local residents regularly use the church for weddings and an occasional church service. The farmstead is a popular location for local 4-H participants who can bring their baby animals for display. It also serves as a petting zoo for visiting children during the summers.
OPPOSITE The famous Cooper Barn in Colby was actually picked up and moved to the Prairie Museum of Art and History in 1992. ABOVE The one-room schoolhouse exhibit is part of the Prairie Living Site at the Prairie Museum.
“I’ve lived here basically my whole life,” says Christina Beringer. “My husband and I both grew up in Colby and moved to Hays together while I got my bachelor’s degree at Fort Hays State University, but we loved Colby so much that we moved back the semester before I finished.” Beringer notes that Colby is a great place to live, work and raise a family. “People take care of people in this community—especially young families. The people of Colby work hard to attract young people and get them involved.” With a variety of community groups and organizations, there are a lot of opportunities to get involved. In the summertime, the Colby and Thomas County Chamber of Commerce and Convention and Visitors Bureau host Picnic in the Park. Local singers and musicians give performances over the lunch hour at Fike Park.
our town colby
A Look Back The Prairie Museum of Art and History provides visitors an authentic look at life on the plains of western Kansas. Grounds surrounding the museum journey back to a world of sod homes, one-room schoolhouses, original buildings and magnificent barns. These original buildings illustrate how a family would have actually lived on a 1930s farmstead. Details such as a wood-burning stove, lessons in the schoolhouse and church services for settlers illustrate the history. In 1992, the museum relocated Cooper Barn, the largest barn in Kansas, 16 miles to its current home in Colby. The second story of the barn has a vaulted roof that stretches over
Christina Beringer Prairie Museum Public Relations and Marketing Manager
“You just come with a sack lunch, sit on the ground with your family and friends, and enjoy a great show,” says Beringer. “We have Pickin’ on the Plains Bluegrass Festival every summer, as well as Santa’s City, Christmas parades, Art Walk— there’s just always something cool going on.” kansasmag .com • kansas!
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our town colby
The museum houses collections of furniture, glasswork, and dolls donated by famed doll collector Nellie Kuska. The exhibits rotate often, making each visit a new experience. Monthly “Food for Thought” presentations (November through March) welcome local speakers, and Kansas Kids Corner shares Kansas’ history by offering children the chance to dress up in pioneer clothes, pet animal pelts and play games. “We wanted to make this a very interactive museum where kids could have fun. At some museums the parents always say, ‘Don’t touch that.’ We didn’t want that,” says Thomas. Family Attractions Colby has become even more of an oasis with its new Aquatic Park. An Olympic-size lap pool is just one destination in this splish-splash pavilion. The park also features a lazy river, family slide, speed slide and curly slide. The Thomas County Speedway is the perfect attraction for visitors who have a need for speed. The 3/8 mile-high banked oval dirt track races modified cars, sport mods, stock cars and more. “It’s loud,” says Dustin Daniels, a stock car racer. “But it’s a good environment for the whole family.” Pickin’ on the Plains is the area’s official bluegrass music festival. Welcoming musicians from all over the nation, this three-day festival is a popular attraction among locals and visitors. The festival also offers activities for kids, camping facilities, a free potluck and an open stage. When you’ve developed a hearty appetite, visit City Limits Grill at the Colby Convention Center, where fine dining abounds. Its welcoming atmosphere offers casual evening dining and one of the best steaks in the Midwest. Don’t forget to consider the Chef’s daily specials. J & B Meat Market is a best-kept secret in Kansas. This deli and café offers a delicious menu of sandwiches, burgers, dogs and homemade shakes. Don’t forget to grab a pound of bacon (or two) to take home as a yummy souvenir. From the restaurants to the museum to the Speedway, Colby proves that it is more than just a rest stop; it is a destination. Freelance writer Rachel Rayner is a student at Fort Hays State University double-majoring in English and music, with a minor in German.
oasisontheplains.com
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Pickin’ on the Plains is a popular bluegrass festival held in Colby. Photograph courtesy of the Colby Convention and Visitors Bureau. Visitors learn about oldfashioned prairie life at the Prairie Museum of Art and History. An old church adds to the historic buildings.
“We have Pickin’ on the Plains Bluegrass Festival every summer, as well as Santa’s City, Christmas parades, Art Walk—there’s just always something cool going on.”
– Christina Beringer
The “other” Oasis Looking for information on Colby and its attractions? Stop by the Visitor Center at 2015 S. Range. Architect Glen Strait designed the center to look like a grain bin, representing the area’s business in agriculture. (785) 460-0076
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Traffic traveling to or from Colorado will inevitably see the “Oasis on the Plains” rest area, which draws many interstate travelers. The stop is stocked with a Starbucks, Quizno’s, Baskin-Robbins, Qdoba and plenty of petrol. fa ll 2013
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Sample some of Kansas’ best culinary one-stop shops
Kitchen Confidant
Sweet! Baking and Candy Making Supply sweetbakingsupply.com
5331 SW 22nd Place, Topeka (785) 228-2253 717 Massachusetts St., Lawrence (785) 749-2258 Cook’s Nook
Are you looking for the best sauce or rub for a perfectly grilled Kansas steak? How about the latest color of Fiesta ware to grace your table? Or even the table around which you will feed your family and friends? Whether you want a unique kitchen gadget, some beautiful Polish pottery or a gourmet food item for your next party, look no further than some of Kansas’ independent, familyowned kitchen specialty shops and boutiques.
Florence Adams
florenceadams.com
529 W. Bertrand Ave., St. Marys (888) 977-3100
apron strings
Kitchen Gallery
apronstringsstore.com
21st and Fairlawn, Topeka (785) 273-6436
201 South Main, Hutchinson (620) 259-7339 810 W. Douglas, Wichita (316) 613-3785
kitchengallerytopeka.com
thecooksnookmcpherson.com
219 N. Main, McPherson (620) 241-7180
Garrity’s 121 N. Fifth, Atchison (913) 367-1523
Nell Hill’s nellhills.com
501 Commercial St., Atchison (913) 367-1086
Florence Adams For your sweet tooth “We like to say we have everything for baking, cooking and entertaining,” says Cindy Hopper, co-owner of Sweet! Hopper and her business partner, Susan Hess, opened the Topeka Sweet! store in September 2010 and another in Lawrence in fall 2011. The offerings include kitchen gadgets and specialty foods, such as Wind & Willow and Barefoot Contessa mixes, and Stonewall Kitchen dips and sauces. And large amounts of baking cups in an array of designs for any occasion, holiday or color scheme. According to Cindy, their stores, online as well as brick and mortar, keep good value as a focus. “My partner and I are price-conscious gals, so we try to offer everything at fair and reasonable prices,” she says. “We are working to dispel the myth that specialty shops are pricey.”
Bringing it back The Victorian, booming-yellow building in downtown St. Mary’s is hard to miss. Florence Adams is a specialty boutique featuring kitchen products, women’s and children’s clothing and accessories. The store’s inspiration came from manager Adam Moats’ sister, Anna, who returned from a trip to Germany and Poland with hundreds of pieces of Polish pottery in her suitcases.
Gadgets and gourmet “From gadgets to gourmet:” That’s how Kitchen Gallery owner Julie Clanton defines her Topeka store. “It’s really all about the gadgets,” she says. But there is much more here, including gourmet foods, Caldrea lotions and soaps, and several Made in Kansas foods and products, like the AireGourmet bakeware line made in Salina, and hand-thrown pottery by Steve Coburn, also from Salina. Delectables include Uncle Sunny’s barbecue sauce, rubs and hot pickles, made in Topeka; Elsie Grace mixes from Frankfort; Rabbit Creek dips and mixes from Louisburg, and CopperLeaf Gourmet seasonings, sauces and jellies from Lawrence.
“We’re trying our best to provide unique, specialty items along with outstanding customer service.”
– Julie Clanton, owner of the Kitchen Gallery
The Kitchen Gallery is also an exclusive retail distributor of Manufaktura Polish Pottery, carrying 29 patterns. “It’s very collectible, makes great gifts and has a strong following. It’s a growing part of our business,” Julie says. Setting your table “The biggest trend right now is home entertaining. Women are having luncheons, couples are hosting dinner parties, people are inviting friends over for garden and patio get-togethers, and
nell hills
Photographs from left: Aaron East, Jason Dailey (6)
Filling the kitchen nook “If we don’t have what you’re looking for, we’ll try to find it for you,” says Jonna Corrigan, manager of The Cook’s Nook in McPherson. The store is known for having a large selection of kitchen gadgets and being one of the state’s best sources for Fiesta ware, the colorful dinnerware that hit the market in 1936. “It’s a flash from the past and is still made in the United States and very durable,” Jonna says of the Art Deco line. The Cook’s Nook offers all 15 colors of Fiesta ware and even carries the square place settings, available in eight colors. Showcasing new products and techniques, demos from the knowledgeable staff are always taking place at this kitchen arts mecca.
“The seeds of our present store were planted there, and Anna’s enthusiasm drew us to add the kitchen accessories, clothing, linens and hats that you now find here,” says Adam. Florence Adams, named for the family’s matriarch, offers larger kitchen items, such as the coveted Boos cutting boards and islands, kitchen furniture and metal pot hanging racks. After an expansion in the space, the store now offers high-end and durable small appliances, such as the Champion juicer, which is still made with a steel casing.
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Stringing it together “I look for things I would use in my own kitchen,” says Anne Dowell, owner of Apron Strings in Hutchinson and Wichita. “I have a little bit of everything and a lot of some things.”
The store carries Le Creuset cookware, Outset grillware and Sorrento stoneware, and always in stock is a large selection of spatulas, pastry cloths, cookie sheets and high-quality knives. Not to mention linens, cookbooks and, of course, aprons. “I go to market several times a year and am always looking for new and unique items,” Anne says. The boutiques offer cooking classes, including a men-only cooking class and kids’ cooking classes during the summer. Anne grew up on a farm and, as the only girl among a family of brothers, learned to cook from her mother. “I love what I do. I get to see people all day long, and our customers come from all over the country,” Anne says. Lou Ann Thomas, a freelance writer from Belvue, enjoys checking out the newest kitchen gadgets and the culinary delights.
Photographs: Aaron East (3)
apron strings colorful table linens are hotter than ever,” says Mary Carol Garrity, owner of Nell Hill’s in Atchison. Nell Hill’s has a wide variety of place mats, napkins, towels, aprons, tablecloths and anything else you need to add color and texture to your table. For a fresh look, Mary Carol recommends linens: “Many linens now come in geometric prints and interesting color combinations. They are perfect to pair with white dishes to add a splash of color to your table.” The sister store located down the street, Garrity’s, provides the furniture in which to decorate. “We can help you with as little or as much as you need, from the largest piece of furniture to a hostess gift or the smallest detail in the room. We pride ourselves on that,” Mary Carol says.
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Passenger Approved, Rail Worthy Excursion Trains are full steam in Kansas Photography by jason dailey
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K
ansas’ excursion trains invite passengers to experience a piece of history. Using restored antique coaches, locomotives retired from active service on commercial lines, and re-enactors and historians, they bring the past to life. Step into a past in which rail travel was the way to travel, and get an insider’s view of how railroads shaped Kansas.
Scenes from the Marshall County Railroad Historical Society’s Central Branch Railroad, which travels over the Big Blue River.
centralbranchrailroad.org
The train runs seven days a week from April through October, by reservation. Groups of up to 35 people can schedule rides any time of day, and the trip will be customized to the group’s interest. The society coordinates rail rides with local happenings and organizes two special events each year. A Whistle Stop History Ride every spring features re-enactors at several historic stops. The Trains, Planes and Automobiles show in Waterville, scheduled for September 14, includes model airplane dogfights, rail rides, a car show, and this year, a special guest portraying a Fred Harvey Girl followed by a lunch at the historic Weaver Hotel.
Tour kansas
Central Branch Railroad One stop along the Marshall County Railroad Historical Society’s Central Branch Railroad route gives passengers an unusual twist to rail explore: a bird’s eye view of the surrounding country. Two of the three tours offered by the Marshall County Railroad Historical Society—a two-and-a-half-hour trip from Waterville to Blue Rapids and back, or a shorter round-trip route that originates in Blue Rapids—cross an 85-foot trestle over the Big Blue River. “We stop on the trestle and the passengers can throw rocks in the river,” says Ann Walter, who is one of the society’s eight board members as well as its present secretary. “It is a very scenic ride passing through the northern tier of the Flint Hills,” she says. In addition to the two longer routes, passengers can choose a shorter ride west from Waterville to the Marshall County line and back. The train, which began rail rides in 2002, features a historian. This “makes our ride a little more unique,” says Walter, who recounts the story of the railroad and local history from 1867 to the present. And what a history they have to tell. The tracks used by the Central Branch Railroad have been home to emigrant trains, supply trains, cattle trains, orphan trains, German prisoner-of-war trains and even a turkey train. Passengers ride in two open-air cars, and restored cabooses-turned-museums at both ends of the Waterville–Blue Rapids route present riders with an extra dose of history. A 1925 wooden caboose is home to the Waterville museum, and Blue Rapids has a renovated Missouri Pacific caboose. “We love to show the caboose,” Walter says. “Young kids don’t know anything about a caboose. They don’t even remember them.”
Marshall County Railroad Historical Society
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Railroad enthusiasts
Tour kansas
If you’re interested in trains of a smaller scale, the Ellis County Fair Grounds in Hays is the place to be this fall. The sixth annual Western Kansas Train Show will be October 19-20 at the fair grounds. Dealers and model train clubs from Kansas and six surrounding states will display and sell model trains of all sizes. About 600 people attend the annual event. Kevin Keeler, whose father and grandfather both worked for railroads, organizes the show, which is sponsored by K-N-D Collectibles and Ozark Express Hobbies.
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Midland Railway More than a quarter-century ago, the founders of the Midland Railway Historical Association had a vision: to create an authentic, old-fashioned rail travel experience. “They wanted to do a demonstration railroad to show people what it was like and what the railroads do,” says Allen Kinsley, marketing director. Their vision became reality in 1987 when Midland’s first train ran on lines built in 1867 by the Leavenworth, Lawrence and Fort Gibson Railroad. Its route covered just a couple miles to its destination of “nowhere.” It’s still known as the train to “nowhere,” though its longest route travels to Ottawa. Passengers’ time travel begins when they purchase tickets at the original Santa Fe ticket counter inside the railway’s depot, where a Santa Fe Trail Historical Society display includes photographs of President William Howard Taft arriving in Baldwin City by train. From there, the journey continues to the 1950s, 1930s, and earlier; the railway’s passenger cars date to 1898 and 1923. Midland also operates two coaches built in the 1930s and a restored postal car that recalls the days when mail was delivered by train. “We offer a glimpse back into the past of how it used to be,” Kinsley says. The railway’s two main diesel-fueled locomotives were built in the 1950s. Returning this year, the railway will bring in an operating steam locomotive for its annual Rail Fest over Labor Day weekend. The railway also sponsors special events throughout the year, including “A Day Out With Thomas” as in the popular children’s book character Thomas the Tank Engine. Groups can even charter private trips. A recent addition to the trains that run on the Midland tracks is the Kansas Belle Dinner Train, a private performance company that opened for business in January. “We are an old-new operation,” says Bruce Eveland, one of the owners, president and managing partner. “We did the dinner operation in Nebraska for about 24 years and then literally picked it up and moved.” Kansas Belle Dinner Train offers a 1940s-style rail dining experience, with formal meals on Saturday evenings and casual meals on Sunday afternoons. Check the schedule for special events, including live music and murder mystery dinner theater (kansasbelle.com).
kansas! • fa ll 2013
Abilene and Smoky Valley Railroad The Abilene and Smoky Valley Railroad offers something not widely available in modern times: a return to rail travel by steam-powered locomotive. “The steam engine is totally different,” says Mary Jane Oard, manager of the railroad, about the experience of riding behind the fuel-oil powered locomotive. “We need to have it up to 380 degrees to get enough steam to move it.” The 1919 locomotive sat idle in an Abilene park for more than 40 years until the city donated it to the MRHA. It took volunteers more than four years to rebuild it, but it is now back in use. “We use it occasionally through the season,” says Oard. The steam engine and the depot, built in 1887 by Rock Island, are both listed on the National Register of Historic Abilene and Places. The railroad’s first Smoky Valley passenger train left the station in 1994. Railroad Today the association Association schedules regular trips asvrr.org between Abilene and Enterprise every week, in In addition to the addition to the monthly steam regular schedule, the Abilene and Smoky engine runs. The 11-mile Valley Railroad offers round trip takes about 90 private charters, minutes and runs on track laid school field trips, and in 1887 by Rock Island. occasional special events. For more The 70 excursion trains information on train are run by volunteers who schedules, visit the are drawn together by a love website. of trains. They come from Wichita, Newton, McPherson, Topeka, Herington, and Abilene to be part of the organization. “Little boys like to play with toy trains. Well, they’ve grown up and now they can play with the real thing,” says Oard. Tonganoxie writer Julie Tollefson twice traveled to Boston by modern train and quite likes the slower pace of the rails.
opposite All aboard! The conductor welcomes guests to the Midland Railway and the Kansas Belle Dinner Train, where guests have dinner and see a show.
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Midland Railway Historical Association midlandrailway.org
Midland trains run on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from June through October, with a choice of one-hour or two-hour trips. Ticket prices vary for location.
kansasmag .com • kansas!
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Gallery Autumn’s Presentation
Warm hues of autumn celebrate familiar Kansas scenes.
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(Opposite)
FALL FLINT HILLS Jason Soden, Wabaunsee County (From top)
SUNSET COWBOY Tina Schmitt, Gove County LEAVENWORTH NATIONAL CEMETERY Harland J. Schuster, Leavenworth County
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Did you Know?
(Above)
FOGGY BOAT RIDE Brad Neff, Jefferson County (Opposite)
DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME Phil Frigon, Clay County
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All gallery images are submitted from readers and photographers like you. Whether you have years of experience in landscape photography, or have just taken your first photography class, we want to see your work. Learn more about submissions at travelks.com/ks-mag.
(From top)
NEW DIRECTION Jason Benton, Miami County POINTY GRASS Megan Hartford, Riley County (Opposite)
UNION PACIFIC ROLLING OUT OF WILSON Bruce L. Hogle, Russell County
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(From top)
FALL IVY Jason Soden, Wabaunsee County MERLIN AT CHEYENNE BOTTOMS WILDLIFE AREA Jay Miller, Barton County
gallery
Send your scenic photos to Gallery, KANSAS!, 1020 S. Kansas Ave., Suite 200, Topeka, KS 66612. Visit kansasmag.com for submission guidelines and deadlines.
Fall in the Heartland promises a revolving bounty of some of the country’s most delicious festivals; anyone with a sense of adventure, curiosity and an appetite is welcome. From the petite Nordic Heritage Festival on the Douglas County Fairgrounds in Lawrence to the sprawling 10-day Kansas State Fair, people in every corner of the state know how to throw a party. The main course of any self-respecting festival is the fare, food that expresses a cultural tradition like sweet Finnish Pulla or Scotch eggs, seasonal delights like caramel apple pie with a melty scoop of brown bread ice cream or tasty spinach balls, spinach dip and spinach pizza. Welcome to fall, Kansas. Get your festival on and indulge in a favorite treat—or two. It’s all fare game.
Wee Taste O'Scotland McPherson Scottish Festival September 27- 29 macfestival.org
Don’t Miss: The Highland Games. In 2012, Highland athletes broke five world records. Just over 50 athletes from all across the U.S. competed in a total of nine events.
“Attendees might be Scottish or love Celtic music or just want to see the burly athletes in kilts throw telephone poles in the caber toss,” says Kathy Kajinami, former director of McPherson’s Convention and Visitors Bureau and now an honorary Scottish enthusiast. Now in its 20th year, the McPherson Scottish Festival attracts 6,000 people from across Kansas and 14 states. The lively three-day event includes Scottish and Irish dance and pipe and drum competitions; Highland Games athletic contests; sword fighting; a traditional parade of Tartans; and even a sheep dog demonstration. Dishes from Scotland and the British Isles, including Kansas-raised Highland beef burgers, are prepared and consumed with gusto. It’s an opportunity to be Scottish—and eat like a Scot—for a weekend. Vendors sell Scottish meat pies, deep-fried Scotch eggs and authentic fish and chips. Festivalgoers can nibble on traditional Scottish shortbread cookies and sip Scotland’s other national drink (after Scotch whisky), the carbonated, neon-orange, fruit-flavored soda, Irn-Bru. “There are traditional festival foods, too,” says Kajinami. But the seasoned festival planner admits there’s no better way to experience a culture than to partake in its gastronomical delights.
ic Treasu d r re No Nordic Heritage Festival October 5 ksnordicfest.com Just 12 years ago, the Kansas Nordic Heritage Festival in Lawrence began as a Scandinavian cooking extravaganza blended with traditional dancing. “The festival is a delightful way for us to share our culture with our children, grandchildren and anyone interested in joining us,” says Marilyn Myers, committee member. Festival planning is a 10-month labor of love that culminates in a celebration observing the rich heritage of the five Scandinavian countries: Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. The event incorporates the Scandinavian Folk Dancers of Kansas City; children’s activities, including a puppet show and Lego display; Viking re-enactors; and booths selling treasures from Nordic woodcarvings, handcrafted items and other Nordic items. But Scandinavian delicacies like krumkake, a Norwegian coneshaped waffle cookie; lefse, a traditional flatbread; and open-faced sandwiches are some of the main attractions of the Kansas Nordic Heritage Festival. Festival admission is free, with a $5 suggested donation that helps offset expenses. “The goodies are endless,” says Myers. “No one goes away hungry.” Don’t Miss: The cookies. Plenty of light, fluffy, cookies.
“At the end of the event I usually see if there are frozen Scottish meat pies I can buy for my home freezer to enjoy a couple of months later when winter’s snow is falling.” – Kathy Kajinami
nach Splas i p h S
Lenexa Spinach Festival September 7 lenexa.com Dubbed the “Spinach Capital of the World” during the 1930s, Lenexa still showcases the much-maligned veggie that kids—and adults—love to hate. Even if spinach isn’t your thing, festival coordinator Susanne Neely (who won the dessert competition in 2007 for her spinach-apple mini-cakes) guarantees there’s plenty to enjoy about this one-day ode to the humble veggie. “I’m a huge spinach fan—I eat it almost every day in some form,” says Neely. “And the Lenexa Spinach Festival offers a variety of unique and truly delicious dishes made with spinach.” Even, Neely smiles, spinach ice cream. “You’ll lick the bowl clean,” she says. The one-day event packs in tons of spinacheating fun, including the Swee’ Pea Baby Crawling Contest, green rock skipping, shopping at arts and crafts booths, live music, recipe competitions and cooking demos using Popeye’s preferred food. The Lenexa Spinach Festival draws nearly 8,000 people to Sar-Ko-Par Trails Park, and with the $1 admission for adults (kids 12 and under are free), the price is right for a tasty, familyfriendly event.
Don’t Miss: The “World’s Largest Spinach Salad” prepared with 150 pounds of fresh spinach tossed in a four-foot bowl from the Lenexa Historical Society.
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C
ime T ch n ru
Fair Play Apple Festival October 6 parks.snco.us
Set on the historic grounds of Old Prairie Town in Shawnee County, the juicy 34th annual Apple Festival offers a glimpse of life from the late 1800s. John Bell, operations manager for the event, says the Apple Festival’s family-friendly atmosphere and old-fashioned music and entertainment are right at home in the 21st century. “This is a unique festival because we take people back in time, to when this property was originally settled,” says Bell. “More than 8,000 people come out every year to shop for handmade crafts in the Peddler’s Village, listen to bluegrass and folk music, watch blacksmith and woodworking demonstrations, and take tours of our historic buildings.” Festival attendees can also munch on pop apple fritters, swoon over caramel apples, fork into thick slices of apple pie and sip apple cider. When you’re weary of apples, try the Bierocks, barbecued turkey legs or a hot dog. Kids 12 and under are free, and adult tickets are $5 in advance or $6 at the gate. Don’t Miss: Caramel apple pie with brown bread ice cream.
Kansas State Fair 100th Anniversary September 6 – 15 kansasstatefair.com “Going to the fair every year was a precious family tradition,” says Denny Stoecklein, general manager of the Kansas State Fair. “The memories people have of the fair are priceless.” 2013 marks the Kansas State Fair’s 100th anniversary, and in honor of that milestone one of the concessions planned is—drumroll, please—deep-fried birthday cake. “We just had to do it,” grins Stoecklein, who admits a weakness for fair fare—on a stick, fried, between a bun or in a glass. After you’ve worked up a stiff appetite by strolling the midway, paying homage to the butter sculpture, and viewing the livestock, check out the fair’s cuisine scene. “Eating at the fair should be an adventure,” says Stoecklein. “My philosophy: Eat things you can’t have every other day of the year.” Don’t Miss: Pronto Pup on a stick with spicy brown mustard and a glass of iced tea (Denny Stoecklein’s favorite). A Pronto Pup, a Scottish egg, a Norwegian krumkake, a slice of apple pie with brown bread ice cream or a piece of spinach cake—Overland Park freelance writer Kimberly Winter Stern can't resist.
KANSAS museums There is plenty to see and do in Kansas. Be sure to call ahead for complete directions.
Manhattan Abilene El Dorado Wichita
Topeka Lecompton
Historical Lecompton Civil War Birthplace Where slavery began to die
Visit Constitution Hall & Territorial Capital Museum 10-5 pm Wed-Sat • 1-5 pm Sun Tours (785) 887-6148 • www.lecomptonkansas.com
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in KANSAS! Magazine For details contact Bert Hull (888) 497-8668 sunpubads@sunflowerpub.com
culinarybliss
Three Kansas chefs shine in the national spotlight for staying true to their roots
photography by Jason Dailey
The Land of Oz is mighty tasty these days thanks to Kansas chefs scattered in all corners of the state. Three passionate and innovative gastronomic wizards push the culinary envelope by coaxing flavor and inspiration from locally grown vegetables, fruits and meats. The result? An intoxicating blend of tradition and creativity. Chefs Scott Benjamin, Colby Garrelts and Carl Thorne-Thomsen are part of Kansas’s vibrant cuisine scene and carefully preserve their Heartland heritage by paying homage to the Sunflower State’s seasonal bounty. This trio of talented culinarians hailing from Manhattan, Leawood and Prairie Village joined the lofty ranks of colleagues across the country nominated for excellence in 2013 by the James Beard Foundation. To put the JBF awards in perspective, they are thought of as the culinary equivalent of the Oscars. Chefs Benjamin, Garrelts and Thorne-Thomsen—all restaurant owners with a five-star sensibility—carefully elevate and transform the palates of their guests. They offer well-curated wine lists and craft cocktails in addition to their original, honest, interesting and, above all, delicious food. And thankfully, these chefs cling to their roots.
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Scott Benjamin 4 Olives Restaurant & Wine Bar Manhattan James Beard Foundation Semifinalist Nominee: Outstanding Wine Program fourolives.biz
Born in Kansas City, Kansas, Scott Benjamin grew up in northern Virginia, where his father was in the political scene. The youngster was exposed to a world of epicurean delights, including French food, which Benjamin gravitated toward. “I developed a taste for rich dishes and some fairly complex food,” he says of his time on the East Coast. “I learned the rewards of attention to detail and patience in the kitchen.” Benjamin also nurtured an appreciation for wine, which would become a centerpiece of his future restaurant. When Benjamin started creating a blueprint for 4 Olives Restaurant & Wine Bar, which opened in 2004, he envisioned fine dining infused with a casual air with a pedigree borrowed from childhood experiences. And a robust wine list. For Benjamin, food and wine are
“It might seem a stretch to have such a large wine list in a Manhattan restaurant, but customers love it." - Scott Benjamin
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inseparable. When he was notified of the James Beard semifinalist nomination for Outstanding Wine Program, he was humbled and elated. Today, 4 Olives serves contemporary American cuisine with a twist of classic global and Mediterranean influences. It boasts 900 bottles of wine (another 200 are held back, aging to perfection) with 50 offered by the glass. Benjamin’s savvy wine GPS has gained him kudos from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator, including the Award of Excellence, which only 700 restaurants in the world can claim. “It might seem a stretch to have such a large wine list in a Manhattan restaurant, but customers love it,” says Benjamin, who owns the acclaimed eatery along with his wife, Rachel. As far as Benjamin is concerned, he’s at the end of a glorious food-and-wine rainbow in Kansas. “It’s a land of plenty,” says Benjamin.
There are a few dishes Carl ThorneThomsen won’t remove from the menu at Story. He says there would be a customer revolt. “In some approximate form there will always be duck empanadas, braised short ribs and ceviche,” he says. “And our German chocolate cake.” Thorne-Thomsen, who grew up in northwest Connecticut, and his wife, Susan, opened Story in Prairie Village two years ago. The contemporary American upscale restaurant is a favorite in Kansas City. Diners flock to the beautifully appointed dining room and the three-seasons patio for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. “Cooking brunch takes an entirely different mentality,” explains ThorneThomsen, who has an English degree from Cornell and spent years writing fiction before immersing himself in the culinary spectrum. “It takes a certain restraint when cooking eggs and pancakes; it’s not like sautéing or searing with screaminghot heat.” Thorne-Thomsen credits another Kansas City JBF award-winning chef, Michael Smith, for some of his creative kitchen knowledge. “I was chef de cuisine for Michael Smith at Extra Virgin, and his eponymous restaurant in the Crossroads Arts District in K.C.,” he says. “I learned a lot from him.” Known for maintaining a low profile, Thorne-Thomsen is quick to give a nod to his 20 employees for helping create the Story experience. “The honor of being recognized is incredible,” he says. “I was blown away with the Best Chef: Midwest semifinalist JBF nomination, to see my name with peers that I admire. But we all work together at Story to make it succeed.” Since opening in May 2011, Story has won a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence and was named to OpenTable.com’s list of top 100 American fare restaurants in the U.S. Thorne-Thomsen received another accolade as Food & Wine magazine’s 2013 winner for The People’s Best New Chef: Midwest. “This is my passion to create food that involves memory,” says Thorne-Thomsen. “Doing something and looking at the clock to realize that four hours has passed and you didn’t realize it—that’s job satisfaction.”
Carl ThorneThomsen Story
“Doing something and looking at the clock to realize that four hours has passed and you didn’t realize it—that’s job satisfaction.” -Carl Thorne-Thomsen
Prairie Village James Beard Foundation Semifinalist Nominee: Best Chef: Midwest storykc.com
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“The chicken must go from the slurry to flour to frying in a minute.” -Colby Garrelts
Colby Garrelts rye leawood James Beard Foundation Winner: Best Chef: Midwest ryekc.com
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When you’re Colby Garrelts and you’ve been nominated seven times for a coveted JBF award, the trip to New York City for the ceremony is almost like a ritual. He also leaves nothing to chance. Garrelts and his wife, pastry chef Megan, own Kansas City, Missouri’s celebrated Bluestem and much-ballyhooed Rye in Leawood. The couple boarded a flight in May to walk the red carpet at the tony JBF bash in the Big Apple. Garrelts’ pockets bulged with an eclectic collection of objects intended for good luck: two spoons (one from each restaurant), an acceptance speech decorated by his daughter’s artwork, his grandfather’s watch and a flask of Johnny Walker Blue. “I wore the tie I had on at the first awards event,” says Garrelts. “And Meg had on the dress she wore year five.” Garrelts was pronounced best chef in the Midwest at the JBF gala. “It was overwhelming,” he says. “I am so grateful.” A native of Kansas City, Garrelts worked for high-profile chefs in Chicago and Las Vegas. He and Megan moved back to Kansas City following a stint in Los Angeles. They opened Bluestem in 2004.
The buzz about the couple’s brilliant progressive American cuisine continues, and they launched Rye last December in Leawood to a whole new round of applause. “Meg and I created a menu with foods we grew up eating and are careful to preserve the heritage of the dishes,” says Garrelts, who sources local ingredients, including produce, from their family farm. Rye piques palates with sublime fried chicken. Garrelts brines chicken overnight and then soaks it in a slurry. A perfectionist, he and his crew are still tweaking the batter, but the technique is one that is repeated hundreds of times a day. “The chicken must go from the slurry to flour to frying in a minute,” says Garrelts. “It’s labor intensive but worth it.” When Garrelts arrived back in Kansas City there was a new addition in his collection of good luck charms: a JBF medal, hanging from its silk ribbon around his neck. Overland Park writer Kimberly Winter Stern’s personal food diary contains three stars beside each of these chefs.
Read exclusive Q&As with each chef at KansasMag.com. kansas! • fa ll 2013
Convention & Visitors Bureau There is plenty to see and do in Lindsborg. Be sure to call ahead for complete directions.
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Earth, Wind and Fire Lake Pay a visit to this pastoral farm where an experience designed to entice the senses awaits
Taste of Kansas
Photography by Kevin Anderson
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Visitors of Fire Lake Camp send lanterns into the sky for an illuminating scene under the stars.
recipes Julie Zoller’s Favorite Fall Soup
Leek and P o tat o S o u p
• 4 large leeks (about 2½ pounds) • 3 tablespoons butter • 3 pounds russet potatoes (4 large bakers) • Heaping teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste • 2 cups milk • Unsalted poultry or vegetable stock or additional milk • Freshly ground white pepper • Snipped chives, for garnish
P
ning literally being wooed. The lake was so peaceful, the chirp of crickets and frogs so loud, we were both thinking we could make this work.” That was 4 years ago. Today, Julie, the one with the creative mind that never quits, has decided to share this feel-good property with others. “And what better place than this?” she says. Julie’s vision began with a love affair with food. In the past, she and Bob would routinely host slow-food dinners at their home depot. “So why not carry on the tradition using our sustainable, pesticide-free crops grown right on the property?” she says. Seemingly born in another time, Julie would have made the perfect pioneer woman. “I love to cook, garden and nurture plants and animals,” she says, mulling over a notion to grow sweet corn this year and increase honey from the beehives. At Fire Lake Camp, she’s definitely in her element. Past the chicken coop where a gaggle of stylish hens range free, rows of asparagus are finally poking up through the till. In the summer the gardens burst with cabbage, tomatoes,
Fire Lake Camp’s Farm Dinners feature guest chefs who prepare family-style meals with local ingredients.
Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes. Add the potatoes to the pot with water to cover. Add the salt, bring just to a boil, and simmer over low heat until the potatoes and leeks are both tender. Remove from the heat and let cool. Purée the soup in a blender in batches, and then strain it through a coarse sieve; or better still, put the soup through the medium disk of a food mill which purées and strains in one action. The soup base can be made to this point up to two days ahead of time and refrigerated. Combine the soup base and milk, and add stock or more milk as needed to bring the volume up to three quarts. Season to taste with salt and pepper and reheat over moderate heat, stirring frequently; do not let the soup boil after adding the milk.
Taste of Kansas
icture this: rolling countryside dappled and draped with century-old oaks. A tranquil lake nearby becomes the perfect antidote for days when nothing but toes-in-the water will do. At dusk the fireflies flicker, the breezes die and the heavens sparkle. Not all that long ago, one couple plunged headlong into this joyful expedition and purchased the bucolic setting outside of Paola they named Fire Lake Camp. “This is about as close to nirvana as I get,” says Fire Lake Camp owner Julie Zoller, looking over her nearly 20acre spread she shares with her husband, Bob. Fire Lake Camp isn’t really a camp, but rather a moniker bestowed by the Zollers that references Bob’s childhood summering on the Hudson River. It also refers to flammable bubbles that periodically perk up from the bottom of the lake. “We’re no strangers to happenstance, however,” Julie says. “We swapped houses with friends who owned an 80-acre farm with our converted train depot in Wellsville. As luck would have it, Bob and I were strolling around this property one starlit eve-
Preparation Slice the white and pale green parts of the leeks (everything that is closer to white or yellow than green) crosswise and place in a bowl of water. Pull apart the rings and swirl to remove any dirt. Lift the leeks out of the water and drain in a colander. Use the same water to wash the heavy green tops; save these for poultry or vegetable stock. Melt the butter in a soup pot over medium-low heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted.
find More recipes online at kansasmag.com
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potatoes, broccoli, spinach, onions, rhubarb, kale and lavender. By the first frost, a pumpkin patch will be burgeoning.
“We invite the public to meet the farmers, walk through the fields and enjoy a handcrafted meal in the company of friends and neighbors.”
Taste of Kansas
– Julie Zoller
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“Fire Lake Camp farm dinners are a celebration of fresh food from us, local farmers and food artisans,” Julie says. “Our menus are inspired by morning’s harvest, prepared fresh for you, and served with wine or brew pairings. We turn our farm into a dining room, serving dinner on long, antique harvest tables on the banks of Fire Lake. What a stage. What an evening. If you’ve never dined al fresco under starlight you’re in for a treat.” It’s not just dinners that put people at ease. Fire Lake Camp hosts all kinds of foodrelated events, including weddings, rehearsal dinners, picnics and campfires. “Great food and simple pleasures seem to allow people to let their guard down and unwind,” she says.
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Julie and Bob enjoy the opportunity to showcase the farm during tours that are open to the public. “Many folks have no idea what we do. We want them to experience farm living at its best [and] let them relax by the lake and eat some great food prepared by one of my favorite chefs, Mary Berg,” she says. Berg pipes up as she watches visitors wait patiently for their finger-food. “People aren’t used to slow food—it’s always about fast food. So when they head down to a long, community table by the lake and take their time, there’s a new rhythm to discover. The food tastes better, the conversation or lack of it is perfectly fine, and people come away smiling, especially evident when we set out milk and cookies lakeside.” These days, Julie and Bob hardly have time to sit and take it all in. “I think we’re accomplishing our goal giving people an opportunity to breathe fresh air, eat fresh food and refresh their flagging spirits. People aren’t used to country living that’s become our passion. Maybe some of it will rub off,” Julie says. If cookies and milk are on the menu, you’ll find Overland Park writer Gloria Gale idling in an Adirondack. firelakecamp.com
recipes Recipe Courtesy of Schenker Family Farms
Grilled Pork Steaks w i t h Sw e e t Zucchini Relish • 2 Schenker Farms Pastured Pork Steaks • 1 packet Chef Mark’s Sea Salt & Cracked Black Pepper seasoning • 1 medium sized zucchini, chopped • 1 small onion, chopped • 2 dashes cinnamon • cup sugar • ½ cup golden raisins (optional) • 1 tablespoon real butter
“Since we’re not raising our own meat, (the hens are simply for eggs), all of the protein comes from Schenker Farms in southeast Kansas,” says Julie Zoller. “Their conscientious farming practices from this family-owned farm dovetail with our own responsible food practices.”
Preparation: Place chopped onion, zucchini, cinnamon, sugar, butter and raisins in covered pan on medium heat. While that is cooking, season pork steaks with Chef Mark’s Sea Salt & Cracked Black Pepper seasoning (found in most KC metro stores) and place on grill. Cook zucchini about 7-8 minutes, stirring frequently, until soft and done. Depending on thickness, pork steaks will take 8-12 minutes to cook. Serve warm. Serves 2-4. Cooking Tip: Thaw pork steaks in the refrigerator or the sink— NEVER the microwave. Using a microwave to thaw lean meat of any kind tends to “rubberize” it.
schenkerfarms.com
The 25th Annual Gordon Parks International Photo Contest was underway this past summer. Celebrating the spirit of Parks and his cultural contributions to society and the arts, the contest is part of the Gordon Parks Celebration of Culture and Diversity. The competition, which has been observed at Fort Scott Community College since 1990, welcomes more than 4,000 entries inspired by Parks’ work. Winners are announced on October 4, culminating the celebration and honoring 25 years of inspirational and moving work. gordonparkscenter.org
Photograph by Gary Palmer of Captured Images, courtesy of the Gordon Parks Museum
Milestone of Kansas
25th Annual Gordon Parks International Photo Contest