3 minute read

Chung’dam

Critic KS Tong and O reader Caitlin Smyth give their verdicts on this modern Korean restaurant in London’s Soho

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here

Our pro says

I am too old for TikTok but that won’t stop me from attempting to keep up with the kids. So while Fifty Fifty’s Cupid and accompanying dance helped me realise my K-pop dreams, I turned to Soho’s newest addition, Chung’dam, to rediscover my affinity for Korean food.

The minimalist décor of cream walls contrasted by green marble tables and a golden central bar doesn’t offer much atmosphere; however, the pleasant staff, smartly dressed in casual traditional attire, and the sounds and smells of Korean barbecue cooked at the table give Chung’dam a spark.

The menu is broken down into barbecue meats, rice and noodles, and sides, and direction from the ever helpful staff suggests you order one from each section per person.

An order of kimchi is obligatory – not ordering kimchi at a Korean establishment is like going to Pisa and not taking a picture pushing up the leaning tower. Refreshing and fragrant kimchi served with seasonable vegetables, which on this day were dressed bean sprouts and white radish, perfectly whetted the appetite for the main event.

Here the meal comes to life owing to the theatrics of the dishes being cooked before you by the staff. Orders of the pork belly and salted chicken thighs disappeared quickly but the standout was the signature bulgogi (marinated thin slices of beef) which was best eaten wrapped in lettuce leaves and topped with fermented chilli and paired with an organic white from Italy from the global wine list. The hot stone bowl beef bibimbap was also delicious.

A delicate, fresh strawberry cream shortcake proved the perfect ending. I regret not getting the pyeonbaek steam box – a three-tiered wooden box with steamed seafood, prime beef and seasonal vegetables. Next time.

BILL FOR TWO, INCLUDING SERVICE: £133.88

ATMOSPHERE: 7

SERVICE: 7

FOOD: 7

TOTAL: 21/30

Caitlin Smyth is a rehab assistant for the NHS from Tottenham, London. She eats out twice a month and finds it impossible to pin down a favourite restaurant (it’s a toss up between Officina 00, Chuku’s and Lucky & Joy).

Our punter says

The décor is unassuming at Chung’dam. There is an effort to make the restaurant feel welcoming and up-market, and the atmosphere is lively and warm. The sound of sizzling meat creates a great buzz and the staff are friendly.

The menu is succinct and interesting, with enough choice without being overwhelming. The main draw is the barbecue plate on your table. The drinks menu included some Korean and East Asian spirits. I missed a trick here and went for a Chung’dam Draft, which was a tasty craft-style lager, but I wished I’d noticed the cocktails earlier!

The staff were attentive and their knowledge of the food was where their passion showed. We started with mandoo – chicken and vegetable dumplings which included pickled and chilli daikon for added crunch. The kimchi provided the usual spicy kick, although for the portion size it was expensive. Beef tartar is a favourite of mine so I was excited to see it on the menu with sesame-dressed pear – however, it was served too cold and lacked in seasoning. As it warmed up though, the flavour came through and the juice of the pear cut through the richness of the beef and egg yolk.

On to the barbecue – we ordered rice with thin skirt beef, and marinated iberico pork rib. The beef was served with a homemade wasabi that didn’t blow your head off, and wrapped in a lettuce leaf. It was tender and juicy, we just wished the portion was more generous. The pork was charred and caramelised – it had a sticky, chilli sweetness which went well with an umami ssamjang sauce on the side that we requested plate after plate of.

Overall, the barbecue added theatre, and the service was great. However, it is quite pricey – perhaps because of the Soho location.

BILL FOR TWO, INCLUDING SERVICE: £101.25

ATMOSPHERE: 7

SERVICE: 8

FOOD: 6

TOTAL: 21/30

Named after the bustling Cheongdam-dong district in Seoul, Chung’dam is a contemporary Korean restaurant combining modern Korean cooking with traditional cooking techniques, paired with the finest ingredients in a sleek and refined space that’s designed to facilitate an interactive dining experience taking you on a journey through all your senses. With an impressive cocktail list that features rice wine and soju alongside a global wine list, Chung’dam attempts to live up to the vibrant reputation of its namesake. chungdam.co.uk

What is SALSA MACHA?

SALSA MACHA IS A MEXICAN CRUSHED CHILLI PASTE THAT CAN INCLUDE INGREDIENTS SUCH AS DRIED CHILLIES, PEANUTS, SPICES AND SEEDS, GARLIC AND AGAVE SYRUP. IT HAS AN INTENSE SMOKY, FRUITY FLAVOUR AND IS GREAT USED AS A CONDIMENT FOR TACOS, TO ADD TO MARINADES OR SPOON OVER SCRAMBLED EGGS. IT’S AN INGREDIENT LOVED BY CHEFS SUCH AS KARLA ZAZUETA OF BLOG MEXICAN FOOD MEMORIES, AND GABRIEL PRYCE AT RITA’S IN SOHO, AND FOUND OFTEN ON THE MENUS OF RESTAURANTS INCLUDING CASA PASTOR AND KOL. HERE IT’S RIPPLED INTO A CREAMY PINTO BEAN DIP THAT’S GREAT FOR A PICNIC OR BARBECUE. BRANDS SUCH AS LUCHITO, COOL CHILE AND NATOORA ALL SELL THEIR OWN BLENDS OF SALSA MACHA, AVAILABLE AT OCADO.