Huatulco Eye Living and Loving the Oaxacan Riviera Issue No. 11 December, 2011
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In this issue...
Editor’s Letter Generosity is giving more than you can, and pride is taking less than you need. -Khalil Gibran
Bacalao
W
Juquila
Radish Night
Eye Team Editor: Jane Bauer Writers: Jan Chaiken, Marcia Chaiken, Caryl Delaney, Neal Erickson, Julie Etra, Brooke Gazer, Liz Healey, Carminia Magaña, Ximena, Osegueda, Carole Reedy, Alvin Starkman, Kathy Taylor, Doreen Woelfel, Photography: Mary Kubly, Ian Reid, Kathy Taylor, Jane Bauer, Ximena, Osegueda Layout: Jane Bauer Advertising Manager: Alfredo Patiño Opinions and words are those of the author and do not reflect the opinion of Huatulco Eye.
Cover Photo by Ian Reid 2007 © Although this photo was taken in Chicago Illinois we chose it to show the far reaching impact of the Virgin of Guadalupe. To see more of Ian’s work checkout his website www.loveian.com
hat do you want for Christmas?' When I was a kid I gave this question some serious thought. Birthdays and Christmas were the gift receiving events of the year- not to say I didn't receive in-between indulgences; books, coloured pencils, new socks. These days many households boast several tv's, personal computers, ipods, ipads, digital cameras, cell phones, DSis, Nintendos, Wiis, Xboxes... and most people I know don't wait for Christmas to get the latest gadget- by Christmas there is a newer version hitting the stores. As the economy flounders, how much stuff do we really need? How much do our kids need? As a parent I sometimes feel things have gotten a little out of control. If you have any doubt our spending has grown, here is a list of the most popular Holiday gifts of the last 25 years according to Esquire magazine. 2010: Apple iPad $499 - $699 2005: Xbox 360 250GB Starting at $200 2000: Razor Scooters Starting at $40, 1995: Beanie Babies (Ty Inc.)Starting at $7 1990: Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Starting at $8 1985: Care Bears Starting at $10
This issue we celebrate giving and we hope you will do the same. We have provided a giving guide to charities and organizations around Oaxaca that would love your support. I hope you will be as moved and inspired as I was reading about these charitable works. Whether it is cleaning out your closet and kitchen for items you no longer use, volunteering or making a financial donation, it is about connection with other people. The truth is most of us probably have enough and as the Tao Te Ching says “If you realize that you have enough, you are truly rich.” Happy Holidays and see you 2012,
Jane
Eye 3
A New Dawn By Brooke Gazer
U
n Nuevo Amanecer (A New Dawn) is an exceptional organization, dedicated to assisting disabled children. Flor Castillo, one of the most committed ladies I have had the privilege to meet, is the founder and administrator. Her story dates back to 1990 when she was given a diagnosis of Multiple Sclerosis. Fortunately, she sought out other opinions and further analysis indicated that her condition, while serious, was treatable. She spent an arduous year of extensive investigation and treatment before she recovered. This experience had a profound effect; she reflected on how fortunate she was to have the resources for a second diagnosis and for the treatment which saved her life. She began to look for a way that she could make a significant difference in the lives of others. The seeds for Un Nuevo Amanacer (UNA) were sown in 1995 after a census of disabled children was taken. Opened in 1997, the initial equipment was provided by a grant from the United Nations and the location was donated by the director's husband. It is located above his hardware store “Ferrealianza� on Calle Jazmin. Over the past 14 years the number of children treated has grown; the average is about 110 per year. In addition to providing services for disabled children, the goal of the center is to diminish the incidence of disabilities through educational programs. Such as the prevention of RPM, a disorder where a child's motor functions are severely delayed. With intervention before the age of 3, it can be completely reversed within about a year's time. Intervention after the age of 5 has a significantly poorer prognosis as cognitive function and language abilities also becomes affected. There is no inherent disease; the disorder is caused by lack of stimulation. This is not necessarily willful neglect but a lack of awareness coupled with exhaustion. Young and inexperienced mothers who are working long hours arrive home dead tired with little interest in playing with or even fondling their babies.
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Families of children who enter the program must make a significant commitment, as 60% of the rehabilitation is done at home. A neglectful parent would never agree to the extreme dedication required. In addition to treating affected children, a prime goal of the center is to create an awareness of this disorder and eradicate it. At present UNA is treating seven children with this disorder. Osvaldo was referred to UNA by a physician. He had low birth weight and at 9 months was exhibiting psychomotor retardation. He came from a low income family whose mother worked and had been unable to provide all the attention that Osvaldo required. He began with an early stimulation program and by the age of 20 months was able to walk. At this point he began occupational therapy to develop skills required to enter preschool. Osvaldo also received language therapy as he had presented simple language delay. Currently at three years of age, Osvaldo is a cheerful boy in level 1 of preschool and the prognosis is favorable for him to enter first grade with abilities on par for his age. This was a positive outcome but had his mother understood the importance of infant stimulation, this therapy could have been avoided. UNA employs a part time physiotherapist plus four dedicated teachers, but this is never enough to meet the demand. About one third of children seen at UNA have hearing or speech impairment. Anyone with skills in sign language would be welcome as volunteers. Spanish would be helpful, but pictures could be substituted for the youngest children. Neurological and cognitive disorders make up a large number of children and volunteers are needed to assist these children in occupational therapy. All that is required is an abundance of patience! Initially it may take a child up to ten minutes to pick up an object and put it into a cup on the table. Each baby step is a giant stride forward but it requires a lot of one on one time.
Many of the children have physical impairment, deformities or degenerative disease requiring physical therapy, massage and a few benefit from hydrotherapy. If there were a retired physical therapist in the community it would be worth more than a sack of gold if they could help by training other volunteers, parents and staff and to help supervise some of the children's treatments. Originally the facility at UNA included an above ground pool but an over zealous janitor took the bottom out of the pool, ending the possibility of hydrotherapy. If some generous soul were to allow the use of their in-ground pool, this gift would be invaluable. There would never be more than five children in this program and three hours per week would suffice. Aquet joined the program at one year of age with Cerebral Palsy. In order to be able to walk he underwent surgery in 2003 followed by an arduous program of physical therapy which included hydrotherapy for strengthening his legs. Aquet has made excellent progress and at age 14 he continues to attend occupational therapy as he is determined to work toward self sufficiency. Had Hydrotherapy been unavailable as part of his physiotherapy, his prognosis would have been less positive. Only about 30% of the funding comes from government, the remainder is from private foundations, donations, fundraising programs and fees paid by clients. Most of these children are from low income families and many of the parents simply can not afford to pay the small fee that the facility asks. It is possible to sponsor a child at the facility for 300 pesos per month or to make a one time donation to help with overall expenses. If you would like to give something back to this community, either as a volunteer or in the form of a donation, I can not think of a more deserving organization.
Brooke Gazer has a B&B in Huatulco. www.bbaguaazul.com
Virgenes
Tonantzin
By Ximena Osegueda
Juan Diego and his vision
D
ecember holidays in Mexico remind us of the profound impacts of three hundred years of colonial rule. Perhaps one of the most persistent cultural elements of Spanish colonization is the Catholic religion. But far from displacing indigenous traditions, it has superimposed upon local ceremonies, creating synergetic ritual practices that continue to evolve, transform and define the multiplicity of identities coexisting in the Mexican territory. Without doubt, two of the best examples of these trans-cultural practices are the festivities of the Virgen de Guadalupe and the Virgen de Juquila. The strategies of imposition of Catholicism in New Spain are the same as those used throughout the rest of colonized territories. After a territory was conquered by the military, clerics used local sanctuaries and ceremonies, replacing local “idols” with Catholic ones. Indigenous peoples prayed to catholic saints and virgins, while in fact they consciously continued to pay homage to their own deities. With time, Christian symbols, through coercion, repetition and mestizaje, found very fertile ground in an already significantly religious society.
Pedimento
Juquila
Only ten years after the fall of the Aztec empire's capital, Tenochtitlán (1521), sightings of Virgin Mary were reported at Cerro de Tepeyac (northern Mexico City), a very famous pre-Hispanic sanctuary for earth goddess, Tonantzin. Legend has it that back in 1531 Virgin Mary appeared before the Indian Juan Diego Cuauhtlatoatzin three times. Juan Diego told Bishop Fray Juan de Zumárraga about it, but the cleric did not believe him. On December 12th, 1531, Mary appeared for the fourth time, and asked him to deliver Zumárraga an enormous bouquet of roses as proof. Obediently, Juan Diego brought the rare flowers in his ayate to the bishop. When he let down the cloth with the roses, Zumárraga and Juan Diego were amazed to find a beautiful image of Virgin Mary, with dark mestizo skin. This local incarnation of the Mother of God asked for a Sanctuary to be built in her name, Guadalupe, thus becoming the single most important festivity in Mexico, attracting millions of devotees. In Oaxaca we also have a very famous virgin. The Virgen de Juquila attracts about two million pilgrims every year. Santa Catarina Juquila, “The Land of Miracles” is located at the end of a
treacherous road that turns off midway between Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca City. Every December 8th this small town gets completely saturated with devotees and merchants. Rosaries, images of the Virgin, candles, and other paraphernalia inundate the two main streets, evidencing the commercial dimension of religious fervour. Behind them, restaurants and hotels are ready to host pilgrims that come not only during the ceremony, but throughout the whole year. The streets are swarming with people carrying flowers and complex portable shrines with representations of the Virgen de Juquila, who slowly walk to church, stopping here and there to buy a champurrado, a delicious preHispanic hot drink, made with water, corn, brown sugar and cocoa. At the top of the small hill, amongst corridors of vendors, rises proudly Juquila's neoclassical white church, the focal point of this town. Inside they fit as many devotees as possible and mass can be seen on four flat screens. Pilgrims stand or kneel in fervent prayer before the Virgen de Juquila, an eighty-five centimeter Virgin dressed in a white mantle which falls as a triangle and a golden halo
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6 Eye
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crowning her head. At a distance this small representation of Mary looks very much like the silhouette of a mountaintop, with the sun rising behind its summit. It is not surprising that in this mountainous area this image grew intense religious roots. It was Spanish priest Fray Jordán de Santa Catalina who brought the Virgin's statue across the Atlantic in the 16th century. In Amialtepec he eventually found a local villager who helped him promote devotion to this Virgin. This young man, according to oral tradition, traveled with him throughout the sierra for years, and probably acted as Fray Jordán's translator. Unlike Juan Diego, this Indian's name has been unfortunately forgotten from written memory, but not his crucial role in this ceremony. Fray Jordán left him the Virgen, in Amialtepec. An hour's drive from Juquila through an incredibly narrow dirt road, takes you to “The First Mountain to be lit by the Sun”. Dizzying cliffs mark the edges of the pronounced curves, and make it easy to understand why the famous Virgin was moved to Juquila. Here in Amialtepec everyone speaks Chatino and broken Spanish. Along the way to the little church, tantalizing smoke rises from the clay comales where picaditas, quesadillas and other delicacies cook to perfection, ready for the very few devotees that decide to take the long detour. Back in the 16th and 17th century, the miracles of this Virgin became widespread, as more and more people travelled to Amialtepec to ask her for her intercession. She stayed in that town until 1633, when a blazing fire brought the church down to ashes. Miraculously the Virgin alone remained unharmed. As a result of the fire, she showed her new, darkened face.
The powerful image of mestizaje as fire, alludes here death, destruction and re-birth; yes, the mythical Phoenix. After this incident the Virgin was moved to Juquila, with great resistance from the Amialtepec dwellers, and, legend says, from the Virgin herself. According to oral tradition recorded by Deidre Cronell in her American Madonna (2010), after being moved to Juquila, there were various apparitions of the Virgin in different huts of Amialtepec. Security guards jealously guarded the small statue, but it would continue to appear in the neighbouring little town. Finally in 1719 it was decreed that the Virgin should remain in Juquila. By 1746, she was renamed the Virgen de Juquila and a spacious white church was inaugurated in her honor, announcing the arrival of the neoclassical impulses. She now rests in a glass container standing about four meters off the ground, surrounded by stacks of flower bouquets that flood the crowded yet fresh space with their sweet aroma. An impossible long line of buses and vans slowly drive down the road to Juquila. About six kilometers before arriving to see this statue, the vehicles take a right turn, at the Pedimento. Another small chapel stands there, in which we find a much more accessible image of the Virgen de Juquila. Pilgrims stand in line for hours to deposit their flowers at the foot of this Virgin, where they ask for her favor. Behind the little chapel, crosses and little clay figurines cover every inch of the land. It is common custom that devotees model mud to materialize their wishes, normally involving material things. Crosses stand there as symbols of gratitude for the favors granted.
The animistic implications are evident. It is without doubt that the Pedimento ritual is another evidence of pre-Hispanic tradition at work here. Mother Earth, Tonantzin, reappears as an intercessor between the believer and God to provide material comfort and sustenance. Meanwhile, in Juquila, high above the ground, the ethereal, more Catholic manifestation of the Juquila Virgin seems to float above the heads of her devotees, offering spiritual ascent. Duplicity becomes the central theme in the ceremonies of the Guadalupe and Juquila devotions. Catholic and Indigenous, material and spiritual: all these dichotomies merge in these fascinating ceremonies. Whether religious or not, one cannot disregard the curious power of these images, appealing to a growing number of fervent believers from diverse cultural backgrounds. Contesting notions of globalization as an aculturizing force, increased communications only help spread and evolve these synergetic ceremonies of the Virgen de Guadalupe and the Virgen de Juquila, symbols not only of religious belief, but of the profound impacts on Mexico's colonial experience.
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Eye 7
From the Dalai Lama to the King of Spain, Everyone Loves El Bazaar Sabado By Carole Reedy
Q
ué hermoso…Magnifique…Wie schon...Hoe modi…Kako lijepo. Words expressing “how beautiful” in just a few of the many languages you'll overhear while eavesdropping on the conversations of the shoppers at El Bazaar Sábado. Enjoy the stroll down Avenida de la Paz, the short cobblestoned street that leads to Plaza San Jacinto in Colonia San Ángel, a prominent neighborhood in México City that sits adjacent to popular Coyoacan. Your senses will be heightened by the colors in the plaza, where artists sprinkle the park with their easel paintings. Smell something delicious? Vendors are preparing snack foods to sustain shoppers throughout the afternoon. The bazaar began in the early 1960s when 20 artisans formed a society with the goal of providing a venue to sell their creations. Monday to Friday they worked, creating and perfecting their art, and then on Saturdays they sold to the public. Thus the beginnings of Bazaar Sábado illustrate why it is open only on Saturdays. A few years later, one of the artisans, Ignacio Romero, looked for a permanent location for the group. He found a grand old dilapidated seventeenth-century house in San Ángel, which the group bought and then renovated with the help of architect Manuel Parra, famous for his colonial restorations.
In 1965, Ignacio opened the doors to celebrate the inauguration of the new Bazaar Sabádo. Instead of the 200 or so expected guests, the city's entire intellectual and cultural community gathered outside in a show of solidarity and support for the artisans. A success story ever since Diego Carranza, grandson of Ignacio, now heads the bazaar and talks with passion about his grandfather, the artisans, the community of San Ángel, and the future of México. “The success of the market over the years is simple” says Diego “It's all about good quality, good taste, and the personal relationship between artist and buyer. It is unique. Here, the artisans sell items over which they’ve labored to create the perfection of their ideas” But what about the future of Bazaar Sabado given the world economic crisis as well as México's own problems with violence and insecurity? “We still have a lot of tourism, and our market is secure because of the fine reputation of the bazaar. People come here for the good quality of the products, the knowledge of the artisans, and fair prices for the unique works. We in México are used to crises. If it isn't one thing it is another.” Diego smiles, accepting the challenges ahead with optimism. “The key for México and a happy society is education, health, and culture. Bazaar
Sábado can provide two of those three requirements (education and culture) to help México in the future.” If you choose you can spend the entire day in the two-story colonial site. On the first floor, a charming open-air restaurant brims with flowers and live music, a retreat to “old México.” Enjoy the famous quesadillas, una cerveza, or a coffee. A lengthy waiting list awaits artists who want to join the ranks of the 62 artists of the bazaar. Travelers from all over the world come to take home a recuerdo. Here you're buying not just a souvenir, but a creation, anything from a 100-peso ceramic candle holder or a 500-peso pair of colorful leather pumps, to a sculpture of glass and iron selling for several thousand pesos. The artists are justifiably proud of their works and the bazaar itself. Be assured they love to take time to chat about both. Visit the bazaar this month to complete your Christmas shopping. And, yes, it will be open on Christmas Eve to accommodate late shoppers. You'll find ceramics, stoneware, many different styles of jewelry, brightly colored embroidered shoes for women and girls, original huipiles, metal figurines, toss pillows, and one-of-akind fancy dresses. Whatever you choose, know that it's unique in the world and made with care and the amor del artesano.
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(958) 587 0380 flamboyan 206, la crucecita wilfreddymarin@hotmail.com Santa Cruz Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico
Meet the Artists... Julie Sanchez hasn't missed a Saturday in 20 years. She and husband Enrique create and sell their highfired ceramics and are happy to design their works to fit the buyer's needs. From lamps and fountains to birthday candle holders and Christmas ornaments, their little corner of the bazaar is like walking into a candy shop...you want it all, but select one or two items with the anticipation of returning for more.
Jose Antonio Rodríguez Pérez is another second-generation artisan. His stunning (and world-famous) sculptures of iron and glass have been created for Arab princesses as well as museums. The small metal figurines of Luis Felguérez. (Arte Felguérez) have become valuable collectible works of art. Some are even being reproduced into large public works. Look for Luis on the first floor, where he's happy to talk about his delightful figurines, a family tradition for nearly 50 years.
Karima Muyaes and her sister are proud to continue the tradition of their parents, who were among the original 20 founders. Their father was the creator of the arte de los Milagros. You have most likely seen these little charms in your travels to tourist shops in Michoacan and San Miguel de Allende. Here you will find silver milagros transformed into jewelry and other decorative pieces of art. Karima says the concept of Bazaar Sábado is unique in the world: artists creating and selling their own works under one roof. She describes the artists as “noble” because they're “not in it for the money, but for the art.”
Everyone loves Bazaar Sábado, from the local residents of DF to other artists and the tourists who flock here from all over the world. The kings of Spain and Nepal and former Mexico president Ernesto Zedillo have also walked these halls. When asked to name the most famous person who has passed through the bazaar's doors, Diego's face illuminates as he declares, “Well, for me, it's the Dalai Lama, but I think my grandfather would say Chavela Vargas or Vincente Fernandez.”
Carole Reedy, author of this article, lives in DF, frequents the bazaar, and is happy to answer any questions you have about México City. carolina_reedy (at) yahoo.com
Bazaar Sábado is open every Saturday (and only on Saturdays) of the year from 10:00 am until 7:00 pm, Plaza San Jacinto No. 11, San Angel, DF.
By Carminia Magaña
I
n opera, the soprano and mezzo-soprano duets tend to be the main attraction of the show. They create a breathtaking moment in their pieces, to which composers have imprinted special beauty and brilliance. Opera Obsession seeks to awaken the interest in its audience through these moments, full of emotion and lyricism. Friends of Music Huatulco takes great pride in presenting on December 29, at 8 pm, at Camino Real Zaashila, with Paula Nogueira, Soprano and Daniela Sarmiento, Mezzo-soprano, accompanied by the piano of Montserrat Pujol-Dame. All three will be visiting us from Barcelona, Spain, where they have participated with Sabadell Opera, Millenium Festival, the Palau de la Musica Catalana and many others. They have performed in Mexico, Spain, Andorra, France (Paris), Germany and Poland and their choice of repertory for Opera Obsession is exquisite.
Opera Obsession is December 29th at 8pm at Camino Real Zaashila, Huatulco
Eye 9
Giving Guide Un Nuevo Amanecer- Huatulco Calle Jazmin, Store Ferrealianza, Huatulco Contact: Flor Castillo at unahux@hotmail.com or drop by the center, she is generally there between 11AM and 2PM weekdays. Activities: See article for details- page 4 Needs: Financial donations, Child car seats provide neck and back support enabling a child to stay in a sitting position while working to improve their motor skills. Infant water beds or twin size water beds. Child size wheel chairs, learning material such as wooden puzzles, building blocks or logo sets, paper, crayons, powdered baby formula, ensure or pediacare nutritional supplement Volunteer Opportunity: Yes, contact Flor Castillo DIF Autism Clinic- Huatulco Paseo Guelagetza, Huatulco Contact: Karla Fragoso Tel.958 587 2161 Activities: See article for details- page 12 Needs: Financial donations as well as household items for the simulation activities. Volunteer Opportunity: Yes, contact Director Karla Fragoso Piña Palmera- Zipolite www.pinapalmera.org Contact: Flavia Anau caippac@yahoo.com.mx Activities: to help people with disabilities to accept themselves, to assist disabled people to be as independent as possible to promote the development of the abilities of people with disabilities to the fullest to generate social acceptance in the region towards people with disabilities. Crafts made at Piña Palmera are available for sale at Café Juanita. Needs: Financial Donations, Toys , Wheel chairs Volunteeer Opportunity: Yes, with a minimum 6 month commitment Huatulco Diocese Contact: Hours are 9AM -2PM Tuesday –Saturday. On the wall inside this office is a map indicating the areas serviced through Huatulco. Activities: Large organization servicing a wide radius of several mountain villages communities up to 1 ½ hours drive from Huatulco by providing goods such as clothing and food. Needs: light weight used clothing, gently used shoes ladies sizes 8 and under, Men's shoes under size10 and all children's sizes. Donations can be dropped off at the parish office next to the church on Gardenia Street.
Bacaanda Foundation- Un Sueno Zapoteco Contact: www.bacaandafoundation.org Activities: See article for details- page 14 Needs:Digital cameras with their software for our dentists to use in documenting their work. School supplies, such as pens, pencils, notebooks, binders and art materials. Books in Spanish All reading levels, but particularly upper elementary and middle school levels. Toothbrushes and toothpaste Bathing suits, new or gently used, all sizes Despite living less than 30 miles from the shore, many of the children we work with have never been in the ocean and must swim in their clothes when they visit. Durable flip-flops/sandals For the children who come to us with no shoes. Basketballs The one sports facility some towns have is a basketball court. Unfortunately, it's not much good without basketballs! Baseball gloves, balls and bats for the formation of a new baseball team; a uniform drive will come later. Soccer uniforms/supplies, new or gently used Full teams worth of jerseys We've accomplished this in the past by collecting from town soccer programs. Run a drive among your friends and neighbors! Black soccer shorts, all sizes. Cleats Right now we're lowest on sizes 5-8 but all sizes are welcome. Shin guards, Laptop computers Contact us to determine compatibility. Volunteer Opportunity: Yes! Email: elsuenozapoteco@live.com Cruz Roja Huatulco Contact: Tel.958 587 1548 Emergency:958 587 1188 or *065 Activities: The sole provider of emergency ambulance service in Huatulco! Providing affordable emergency and outpatient medical care. You might break your arm, but you won’t break the bank. . Services are available to all. Needs: Sonogram Printer, medical supplies, Financial Donations Volunteer Opportunity: Yes, contact Harriet Tolson. The Race for the Red fundraiser will take place January 22nd. Contact Valerie Verhalen to volunteer or participate in this event. Tel 958 587 2527 valerie@palmpropertiesmexico.com * The Mexican Red Cross is an independent institution and receives no financial support from the government. Donations and medical consults are the only income source that maintain this essential service available to residents and tourists alike.
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Beyond the Coast, Seven Ways to Volunteer
O
By Alvin Starkman, M.A. J.D.
axaca is notorious for being the second poorest
CORAL (www.coraloaxaca.org ) (Centro Oaxaqueño de
state in Mexico. It's easy to detect the poverty, and
Rehabilitación de Audición y Lenguaje), the Oaxacan center
the need when venturing away from the sheltered
for the rehabilitation of hearing and speech, is a four-
bays, even more so while visiting the state capital, Oaxaca de
pronged program designed to assist mainly young hearing
Juárez. Over the past 20 years I've have had the privilege
impaired children whose families are of extremely modest
and honor of getting to know and contribute to the success of
means. It's comprised of an audiology clinic, a hearing and
seven of the numerous non-profit charitable organizations
speech therapy center, an early detection hearing loss
whose headquarters are in the city of Oaxaca. I encourage
initiative and a social work component.
While financial
readers to select one or more of the following Oaxacan
donations are important, you can also assist by donating
charities. As distinct from many American, Canadian and
medical, dental and related equipment (i.e. hearing aid
international charities, while visiting Oaxaca you have the
batteries). Those planning an extended stay in Oaxaca who
ability to personally witness your donations at work.
have technical or professional training may be eligible for the volunteer program.
Libros Para Pueblos (www.librosparapueblos.com) is an outreach program of the Oaxaca Lending Library. Over the
Estancia
past 15 years, by providing monetary donations, books,
oaxaca.webnode.mx) offers lodging and meals to the families
Fraternidad
( www.estancia-fraternidad-
computer equipment and their time, its volunteers have
of patients undergoing longer term hospital treatment in
established 45 libraries in Oaxacan towns and villages; some
Oaxaca's Aurelio Valivieso civic hospital and other medical
are in schools, others are in government offices, and still
institutions in the city. People often must travel long
others are housed privately. As an adjunct to the Libros
distances from outlying regions of the state's 570
Para Pueblos program, the Oaxaca Lending Library holds
municipalities for treatment in the capital since resources
Saturday morning sessions for children and youths through
are inadequate in their own districts. Donations support
which Oaxacan and English-speaking participants are
operating costs of the facilities in which these families are
encouraged to help one another improve their language
housed and fed, and contribute to a fund for the
skills and develop a love of reading.
construction of and equipment for additional buildings.
Fundación en Vía (www.envia.org) is a micro-finance
Casa
Hogar
Hijos
de
la
Luna
de
Oaxaca
organization which provides interest-free loans to
(www.hijosdelaluna.org)
indigenous women in Teotitlán del Valle, to encourage them
children between three weeks and 12 years of age, whose
to realize their economic potential through starting up or
mothers are poor, marginalized and of extremely limited
expanding existing small businesses.
Visitors to Oaxaca
each make $50 USD donations to the project. They are then
resources.
“Children of the Moon” assists
Most are undocumented single mothers from
Central America who pursue work in the night-time sex
welcomed to spend a day touring the town while meeting
trade. Hence, according to government they do not exist;
some of the beneficiaries of their generosity. Travelers can
and neither do their children. Hijos de la Luna provides a
also volunteer their time and expertise – assisting women
safe haven (housing and food), basic education, clothes,
with business plans, teaching English, or accompanying
recreation, medical, dental and psychological treatment. In
donors on the day excursions to the town.
addition to donations the organization welcomes volunteers to assist in virtually every area of support.
Casa de la Mujer (www.gesmujer.org) is a scholarship program which provides higher education for bright, indigenous women who would otherwise not realize their academic potential as a result limited family resources. Young women with demonstrated aptitude and motivation are provided with housing, meals, clothing, educational resources and all other tools and support required for them to succeed.
Casa de la Mujer is a favorite charity of
internationally renowned singer Lila Downs. While it takes 1,800 pesos a month to fully support an individual student, arrangements can be made to provide monthly payments to the program in much smaller amounts.
Alvin Starkman operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (www.casamachaya.com).
Oaxaca
Streetchildren
Grassroots
( www.oaxacastreetchildrengrassroots.org )
Economic
necessity often forces rural children and their families to move to Oaxaca.
Without access to basic services and
education, often the children are no better off than they were in their home villages. Survival dictates that the children work on the streets selling trinkets or begging.
Oaxaca
Streetchildren Grassroots seeks to break the cycle by giving participating children the opportunity to attend school by providing nutritious meals, medical care and psychological support. Much like Casa Hogar, Grassroots welcomes both monetary donations and volunteers.
Eye 11
Huatulco Autism Clinic unique in Oaxaca By Neal Erickson Director Fragoso in front of the new clinic.
T
he Clinica de Autismo in Huatulco is the first and only one of its kind in the State of Oaxaca. It began in 2008 with 5 children in therapy, working in two designated rooms at the DIF (Desarrollo Integral de La Familia) building. DIF is the parent organization of the Clinic, and the Municipality of Huatulco provides funding. On September 30th of this year the new clinic building opened, providing much-needed extra space for the 39 children now being treated. The new building has spaces dedicated to various needs in the training and therapy of autistic children. Autism has a broad spectrum of symptoms and conditions, and because of that, therapy is individually designed to best help each child. In the new building there are two large, basic classrooms equipped with learning related toys and tools. There is a section that has a living room area, a kitchen area, a bedroom, bathroom and even a shower, because much of the guiding of autistic children into a more productive life deals with very basic daily duties and functions. This is important in the development of the autistic child's self-reliance. Autism affects a child's ability to care about simple, socially related things; things we learn from imitating those around us and from listening to our parents' instructions. When an autistic child doesn't care, he doesn't pay attention and learn. This home-like area in the clinic enables the therapists to demonstrate to and train both the autistic child and the family of the child activities that can be repeated at home, eventually having effect. In order to locate and begin to treat those children who can benefit, the Director of the clinic, psychologist Karla Fragoso and her staff have distributed questionnaires to various preschools around the region. They focus on pre-schools because therapy can begin as early as 18 months, and is most effective beginning as young as possible.
They would need psychologists, teachers trained in helping children with learning disabilities, and speech therapists. The new Municipal budget has not yet been decided upon and that is a factor in how quickly new hiring and growth can be accomplished. Of course, volunteers to assist trained staff are very much appreciated and may apply anytime. At this writing there are three trained therapists working with Director Fragoso; two are psychologists and one is a speech therapist. Financial donations and items are welcome to supplement their budget. They are still furnishing the home-simulation area to make it more authentic, so they need items and furniture . Director Fragoso said that they would be happy to give anyone a tour of the clinic if they stop by. Clinic hours are 9-5 Monday thru Friday, and 9-1 on Saturday. As funding becomes available, a second-story addition is planned which will consist of four small apartments where families can stay when they travel to the clinic from long distances. Many of the enrolled children's families are not wealthy, so hotels or other rentals can be a heavy burden.
Tel. (958) 581 0025 Cel. (958) 585 8346
Massage 2 PAX - MASSAGE 60 min. $99.00USD (If you book 2 days in advance)
Tangolunda, Huatulco
The questionnaire consists of 23 yes or no questions about the behavior of their child, designed to discover children who could be autistic. When a candidate for therapy is recognized, Director Fragoso says that the next step is to get full commitment of all the family members in the household where the child lives. Their understanding, education, and involvement are integral to successful treatment. The 39 children now in therapy come from as far away as Oaxaca, Puerto Escondido, and Salina Cruz, and of course as close as the Huatulco area. The last questionnaire distribution was in February this year, and no others are planned because the Autism Clinic will need extra highlytrained staff if the number of children is increased.
12 Eye
The Natural Choice for Fruits and Vegetables Carrizal 904, La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 587 0491 Fax. 958 587 2925 fruverhuatulco@hotmail.com
The Best Beaches of the Oaxacan Riviera: You Tell Us! By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken
T
he motto of the Huatulco Eye is “Living and Loving the Oaxacan Riviera.” While we all agree we love living here, we have a variety of reasons why we do. Your varying opinions about what's best might be helpful to others, especially first-time visitors. So, to help the new arrivals, and to satisfy our insatiable curiosity, we are launching a monthly survey to find out what you and most readers think is best. This month we focus on beaches. The results will be reported in the February edition.
Drs. Marcia and Jan Chaiken have conducted surveys for many US Government agencies and private foundations. They are looking forward to reporting summaries of your opinions about the
Nominated Best Restaurant in Huatulco 2011 By
viena restaurante-bar
Tel. 958 581 0035 Cel. 958 106 5760 bahia tangolunda- in front of Barcelo
Exquisite Mexican Home Cooking Carrizal & Palma Real La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. (958) 587 0139
Best Beach to….. Snorkel __________________________ Surf _____________________________ Sunbathe________________________ People- watch_____________________ Walk_____________________________ Eat a great fish meal______________ Watch the sunrise________________ Watch the sunset_________________ The best beach for___________ is __________________________________ Thanks for your answers!
tangolunda
enjoy our variety of fresh salads, delicious seafood, european food, spicy asian currys, great steaks, austrian dessert much more monday-saturday 5pm-11pm on our beautiful terrace...
Los Gallos
Huatulco Eye Beach Survey
You can drop off your completed paper copies at Hemingway's in Crucecita or Café Juanita in Santa Cruz or Sueño del Mar in Chahue before December 31, 2011. You can also email your opinions huatulcosurvey@aol.com: Closing date for this survey is December 31st, 2011.
Hux Pool Fine World Cuisine at unbeatable prices
Tel (958) 587 2480
to
Everything for the installation and maintenance of your pool.
Pumps, Hoses, Pool Filters, Skimmers, Lighting,, 90% Chlorine,Clarifiers, Anti-Algee
Jazmin 32 Sector H La Crucecita, Huatulco huxpool@hotmail.com Tel 958 105 1542
HAGIA SOFIA Botanical Garden
6 Hour Botanical Garden Tour; 60 varieties of exotic flowers and tropical fruits from Asia to Central America, Swim in the Magdalena River Includes: Transportation, Guide, Breakfast, Lunch Call to reserve today!
www.el-alquimista.com Restaurant & Cabanas Zipolite, Oaxaca
Contact us to book your day tour: Office in Santa Cruz Tel 52 958 587 0871
www.hagiasofia.mx Eye 13
Un Sueño Zapoteco By Doreen Woelfel
M
any locals know Britt-Marie Jarnryd and her husband Raymundo and their dedication the El Sueno Zapateco/The Bacaanda Foundation (Bacaanda in Zapotecan is “dream”) Their efforts bring dental clinics, hygiene classes, nutrition education and other services into rural areas. They donate supplies to schools that sorely need the basics, including paper, pens, crayons and scissors, books in Spanish. The foundation has provided dental clinics in San Felipe Lachillo and Santiago Xanica, as well as other communities. El Sueno Zapateco also brings children from these rural areas for a day in Huatulco, at the beach. Most of these children have never seen the ocean, and have a fun-filled time when they visit. These communities are extremely isolated, and often cannot get out in the rainy season, as access to these areas are questionable even in the best of seasons. So imagine a day at the beach with them! Many local children here have been attending wonderful art classes on Saturday at the El Sueno Zapateco store and workshop in the commercial plaza in Tangolunda, where they work alongside craftpersons creating art from local sustainable materials, including tree gourds and seeds.
14 Eye
One of their latest creations were gourd tourists, which were delightful! There’s nothing like depicting tourists from a local child's point of view. Right now they are working furiously to get Christmas Nativity scenes completed, and are making elephants, camels, wise men, and Jesus, Mary and Joseph in the stable, mostly out of gourds (I'm urging a moose or two for the Canadian POV) that are truly amazing, and very popular with collectors. Britt has done a brilliant job of bringing this project together. You can drop by the shop Monday through Saturday. The workshop needs help in getting ready for Christmas. It's crafty, but fun. They are taking gourds and creating the most amazing forms out of them. These gourds and other art are their main source of funding. Times have been hard on all of us, and charities took a big hit. Britt has mentioned that they may have to let go of the dental clinics for a while and focus on school needs, which leads me to a list, that would make it so simple for any one to help. See the Giving Guide on page 10 for details on how you can help.
Radish Night By Caryl Delaney
D
on´t eat these radishes! Mexico Is known for its strange, unusual and culturally rich customs and traditions and Oaxaca is no exception. One of the most interesting will take place this month in the Zocalo de Oaxaca
City.
Each December 23rd Oaxaqueños and foreigners alike flock to Oaxaca to see this special night called La Noche de Rabanos. The tradition started over a half a century when monks encouraged farmers in the market to decorate their stalls with carved radishes as part of the Christmas selling season and to create a festive atmosphere. The idea stuck and lasted. It became an official holiday in 1897 and this year the city is celebrating its 113th Noche de Rabanos. Now these are not your cute little radishes you get sliced up in a salad or as a side dish to tacos. These are huge radishes, specially grown for this event. They are left in the ground with tons of fertilizers and chemicals for a long growing season which makes them inedible, tough and – sometimes up to 3 feet ! Enormous! The stalls are full of radish carvings along with two other materials to make the displays, dried flowers and corn husks. You can see every kind of scene imaginable: nativity, sports, historical events, folklore, the Three Kings, the Day of the Dead … or whatever the farmer fancies, the creativity is limitless. It is free, but can take up to four hours to get in. Bring friends, take turns going shopping, have some hot chocolate, tamales, bring a book, dress warmly and be patient. It´s worth the wait! It is not everywhere you get to have a Night of the Radishes. Only in Oaxaca!
DA SANA I M CO Raw, Chemical-Free, Vegan
Available at Restaurant Blue Bugambilia 701 La Crucecita, Huatulco or for Home Delivery Cel. 958 116 4585 Info: nikolai.granovski@gmail.com
Craft villages, market towns, colonial architecture and renowned cuisine. Oaxaca City is a 35 minute flight or a scenic 6 hour drive from Huatulco.
Competitive Prices Quality Accommodations Breakfast always included Personalized Service and Advice Present this flyer for a 10% discount off your stay. Some restrictions apply.
Lic. Perla Vazquez Moctezuma
Immigration Lawyer Plaza Continental, La Crucecita Huatulco, Oaxaca Tel. (958) 583 4065 Cel. 958 107 3221
perlamoctezuma@hotmail.com Eye 15
Habitat for Humanity By Doreen Woelfel
M
ost visitors to the Oaxaca area, who actually do get out of the “tourist” zone, are well aware of the living conditions for most of the people of this area. Homes are one or two room shacks, made of twigs, mud, adobe bricks, dirt floors, no indoor plumping of any sort, a well for water (often a community well), that would give any of you pause, considering most of us from the United States or Canada live rather poshly in comparison. Habitat for Humanity has been in Mexico since 1988, and now has projects in approximately 17 states today, including Oaxaca. Several of these projects are in the area, one in Puerto Angel and one in Puerto Escondido that is being lead by my brother-in-law, Ron Woelfel. In Mexico, an average home constructed by Habitat, runs about 6,000 USD. This includes about 49 sq meters of living space (60 sq meters in the cities), usually a kitchen, one or two bedrooms, made out of brick or cinder blocks, that include doors and windows. It is a miracle for families who have been living in mud, twig huts, with no floors, and no windows and doors. Materials used to make homes are dependent on local availability, with a leaning towards “green”. For our area, earthquakes and hurricanes are factors built into the construction of homes. Affording a well-built home is not easy for many Mexicans in this region. Incredibly, as many of you know, many families live on less than $100 USD wages a month, and yet manage to support their families. It is thought that the housing needs in Mexico are easily 2+ million homes that could house up to 10 million people. Imagine! The houses built by Habitat homes are built in rural, semi-urban and urban areas. Homeowners must put in about 500 hours of sweat equity themselves into their own homes or help others on their homes. A special fund is set up to handle the mortgages of Habitat homes, and payments are generally $75 USD a month, and take about seven years to pay off. As of this year, Habitat for Humanity for Mexico has built roughly 20,000 homes.
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Habitat for Humanity Global Village and other organizations, including Thrivent, the organization my brotherin-law is working under, bring in teams of volunteers from all over the world. Global Village usually advertises the opportunity to work in an area that perhaps would be a good place to hang for a few days too, as in the case of Puerto Angel. Many people combine their vacation time, with a Habitat project. Trips posted on their web site have openings in India, Bali, and Fiji, as well as Mexico.
materials, and working under less than ideal circumstances. My brother-in-law's tale of working in Egypt is phenomenal, under conditions I would find uncomfortable, including armed guards protecting them as they built. In Costa Rica, he and his team had an opportunity to work with the indigenous communities of the interior, and he found both experiences to be more than he had ever expected, deeply moving, life enriching experiences.
Founded by Millard Fuller and wife Linda, in 1976, Habitat for Humanity picked up impetus when former US president Jimmy Carter himself became a volunteer, and pushed to publicize this organization. Habitat for Humanity works in disaster areas as well, helping to rebuild communities, homes in areas devastated by natural disaster including New Orleans, Haiti, and Thailand. Fuller's book, The Theology of the Hammer, is a remarkable story of the founding of Habitat, explaining it's philosophy, history, and purpose. It is an inclusive organization, inviting secular, business, religious and family and friend groups, to participate in projects, with the purpose to bringing together people from diverse backgrounds, life experiences and beliefs, to change the lives of people in need. Their mission statement says it all: “seek to eliminate poverty housing and homelessness from the world and to make decent shelter a matter of conscience and action."
The house in Puerto Angel is for a young fisherman's family. They went through the process of applying and being interviewed by Habitat people from our regional office They have to demonstrate an ability to pay a minimal mortgage, and maintain their homes. They will continue on with the process, by working on another project down the road. There are volunteers from the area here as well, with students from UMAR, and locals who have volunteered to work along with foreign volunteers. Many of the local volunteers have had friends and family who have benefited from Habitat, and want to pass it on to others, or one day have an opportunity to apply for a house themselves.
Anyone can participate. Cost of volunteering usually ranges around $2500-$3000 USD to participate in a foreign country, which includes airfare, hotel or living arrangements, meals, and transportation to site. The cost includes a donation of around $600 to help fund continuation of projects or help other projects get off the ground. Many volunteers do fund raisers to donate to the fund, as well as actually doing the work, which is not easy. Building these homes requires one to be healthy and a bit hardy, as you will be digging, building with heavy
You can volunteer almost anywhere in the world. Habitat for Humanity Global Village, has a list of Global Village Program opportunities, and useful information on the Habitat organization in general. From this site you can connect to a project that might interest you. Many other umbrella organizations, including Thrivent, (www.thriventbuilds.com) a Lutheran organization my brother-in-law will be leading a team under, all work with Habitat to organize or continue on with a building project. There seems to be more opportunities down the road to work on a Habitat project in Oaxaca. If interested, go to their website www.habitat.org and check it out.
Check out my blog: http://doreenelizahuatulcopassages.blogspot.com/
Corn Part II: Types and uses of corn By Julie Etra
I
n the United States, Canada, and elsewhere we are of course familiar with sweet corn, popcorn, and feed corn (also used for ethanol production). That is a very simplified version of what most people recognize. However, most modern corn is further defined as dent, flint, flour, popcorn, and sweet corn. Dent corn's name is derived from the dent in the crown of the seed, and is the most common commercial corn, grown more than any other type of corn for human and industrial use (ethanol), and for livestock feed. The starch reaches the summit of the seed, and the sides are also starchy. The dent corn grown in the mid-west 'Corn Belt' was derived from New England flints (see below) and gourseed which is originally from native American corn grown in southeastern North America in the 1700s. The United State is the largest producer of corn in the world (around 45%). Flint corn kernels are hard and smooth with little soft starch and was probably the first corn Europeans encountered. It is not commonly grown in the United States. In temperate zones, flint corn matures earlier and has better germination as well as plant vigor than dent. Seeds or kernels store dent. Popcorn is an extreme form of flint corn with a very small proportion of soft starch and is a relatively minor crop that is consumed only by humans. The reason it "pops" so well, is due to the tough endosperm that can resist the pressure of steam, which is generated in the hot kernel until it has enough force to explode or "pop." It is also used for pinole.. Flour corn has a high starch content and almost no dent and can be considered a type of flint corn. Though it is not used much anymore, it is grown in the drier sections of the US and in the Andean region of South America. It's an older type of corn, and is found in a lot of graves of the Aztecs and Incas. Since the kernel is so soft, the American Indians could make it into flour.xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. Sweet corn has an almost clear, horny kernel when it is still young. The kernels become wrinkled when dry. The ears can be eaten fresh, and kernels canned or frozen. The difference between sweet and dent corn is a gene that prevents some sugar from being converted into starch. However, there are hundreds of varieties of 'heirloom' corn still grown in Mexico, Central and South America with their associated characteristics. There are still places in the United States where these ancient stocks are still grown.
Huatulco Eye Giving Boxes Donation Boxes: Gently used clothing, items for children, toys, toiletries, books (in Spanish and English), nonperishable food items, cleaning supplies.
On the Tuscarora Reservation, part of the Iroquois nation near Niagara Falls, New York, the tribe is still growing the same germplasm that they grew in the Carolinas before their exodus north after the end of the Tuscarora war in 1715. Their corn is not considered to be true 'heirloom' as it is not commercially available and has been grown in the closed Tuscarora community for generations. Native Seed (www.nativeseeds.org) out of Tucson, Arizona, is dedicated to collecting, storing, multiplying, and distributing diverse varieties of agricultural seeds, and their wild relatives from the American Southwest and northwest Mexico, including corn. . Corn has been turned into endless food products and is a central component of Latin-American food. Think of tacos, enchiladas, burritos, chilaquiles, quesadillas, tortilla soup, sopes, gorditos, tlayudas, and cuchuco (from Colombia). The masa or dough for tamales, huaraches etc. is corn-based. Flour (harina) turns into tortillas and polenta. Corn chips, corn flakes, corn crackers, corn meal, corn oil. In Argentina you can find a sugared, puffed corn called tutuca, not to be confused with popcorn. Cornhusks are used for enclosing the filling and dough of tamales and other goodies. But wait, there's more, the beverages: atole, a hot drink made with corn; Tejuino, a refreshing corn and sugar drink common in western Mexico; pinole, a coarse flour made from ground toasted kernels, often in a mixture with a variety of herbs and ground seeds eaten by itself or be used as the base for a beverage (considered the national beverage of Nicaragua).There is Chicha, whose use goes back thousands of years, and is widely known as a fermented corn drink but means very different things among Spanish-speaking countries. According to the Spanish Royal academy the word comes from an Panamanian Indian word chichab, but on the other hand may come from the náhuatl word chichiatl as chicha, means water, and atl' means to sour or ferment. In Spain chicha also means body fat. Let's not forget huitlacoche (Ustilago maydis), corn fungus, considered a delicacy since pre-Hispanic times. In the United States cornstarch is used as an organic tackifier or glue in the erosion control industry, keeping dust and soil in place. Coming soon to a store near you: corn clothes. www.cbsnews.com/stories/2006/07/17/tech/main18114 21.shtml) Next: Corn Part 3: Industrial corn and GMOs.
Rose Kristal Restaurant- Bar
We will deliver goods to Piña Palmera, Nuevo Amanecer, Red Cross Huatulco, DIF, individuals in need, Bacaanda Foundation y mas.... Boxes located at the following: Tangolunda: Celeste Office, Chahue: Senor Puck’s. Resort Real Estate Santa Cruz: Café Juanita La Crucecita: Hemingway’s
Cocotillo # 218 corner Bugambilia, La Crucecita, Huatulco Cel.: 044 958 106 0912 Tel.( 958) 587 0605
www.kristalrose.com.mx Eye 17
Spay/Neuter Clinics By Liz Healey
Huatulco Kids
By Frances Lopez
Fun Facts about Dolphins Compared to other animals, dolphins are believed to be very intelligent.
Dolphins are carnivores (meat eaters). The Killer Whale (also known as Orca) is actually a type of dolphin. Dolphins live in schools of up to 12 individuals. They use a blowhole on top of their heads to breathe.
P
lans for the two free spay/neuter clinics, fundraised for and organized by Heidi Wagner of Salchi and Calgary, Alberta, Canada, to be held in the Huatulco area, are progressing. The first clinic at the Municipio in Zimatan will take place December 7 -10, 9am-3pm. Jane Bauer and Brooke Gazer, along with Sherry and Sam at Mision de los Arcos, have graciously offered accommodations for the Peace veterinary team from Puerto Vallarta and a quartet of volunteers. The second clinic will be held at the Cuatunalco Municipio, December, 14-17, also 9am-3pm. The team will be accommodated at Bahia de Salchi, with lunch and dinner being prepared by Reto Bissegger at the Manta Raya Hotel in Salchi. The ladies from Cuatunalco are preparing a daily mid-day snack for the team and the volunteers, most of whom are from the Salchi community. At this time, we still need clinic volunteers and meal/snack donations for the Zimatan clinics. It's not too late to sign up to volunteer at the clinics; please contact Heidi Wagner at heidi@gary-campbell.com to do so; or to help with meal/snack donations, please contact Jane Bauer at huatulcoeye@yahoo.com . Local residents in Zimatan and Cuatunalco and the surrounding communities are looking forward to and overwhelmingly support the spay/neuter clinics as they understand the long lasting effects that they will have. We thank in advance and look forward to seeing everyone who has graciously offered his/her assistance. 18 Eye
Dolphins have excellent eyesight and hearing. Dolphins communicate with each other by clicking, whistling and other sounds.
Bacalao Why is dry salt cod from Norway the main ingredient of one of the most iconic Mexican Christmas dishes? By Kathy Taylor
W
hen the world was discovered to be round and sailors overcame the fear that they would sail off the edge (thank you Magellan!), the seeds of global agri-business were planted. By the 1500's the nightshade family (tomatoes, peppers and potatoes) took passage to Europe, tobacco puffed its way over to England, spices from the Caribbean married distant Eastern cousins, and dried salted cod made its first journey from Spain to Latin America. The stiff board-like fillets of dry salt cod had been the nutritional salvation of the Portuguese exploration fleet, and in turn, the Spaniards', who developed a “nouvelle cuisine” with the ingredients that they found in the New World. Tomatoes, chillies and potatoes were combined with the Conquistador's salt cod and Spanish olives and olive oil to make the dish that is named for its main ingredient, Bacalao. You might wonder why, with all the delicious fresh fish around, that they would choose to eat a rehydrated salted fish instead of the obvious choice. The answer is simple - as Tevye sings in Fiddler on the Roof, TRADITION. Holiday culinary traditions are the inviolable trait of every culture. Those of us from north of the border depend on the ritual turkey dinner with trimmings to complete our holiday experience. So has Bacalao become a celebratory Christmas dish throughout Mexico, migrating from the conqueror's table to the heart of the nation. At a story meeting for Huatulco Eye last month, when I suggested that I write about tamales for the December issue, the reception was lukewarm. “Bacalao”, said Alfredo, “that is what you should write about.” And that is how we came to have an early Christmas lunch the other day, starring Bacalao, but more about that in a bit. Early in November, throughout Mexico, in markets and grocery stores, stacks of bacalao start to appear. Huatulco's Super Che has a big display in front of the meat department, and offer a plastic wrapped 907 gram package of Bacalao for $159 MNP. What was once a relatively inexpensive fish has become expensive and rare due to recently declining cod stocks. Norway's icy waters traditionally supply the Spanish and Portuguese markets, with the Grand Banks of Newfoundland supplying the others. Because the Norwegian cod is so highly regarded due to its authenticity and tradition, the Bacalao display in the supermarket includes a letter from the Norwegian Embassy in Mexico City stating that Chedraui is indeed selling certified Norwegian bacalao. Karen's recipe: www.mexconnect.com/articles/3560-codfish -with-tomatoes-olives-and-chiles-bacalao-a-la-vizcaina.
I had prepared and eaten bacalao about 15 years ago in a cooking class given by my good friend Suzanna Zaballo from Mexico City. She is married to a Spaniard, and obviously, Bacalao is their family's traditional holiday meal. The wonderful thing about a Bacalao cooking lesson is that the tedious soaking and rinsing and picking and shredding occur in the days before the class. In class we were presented with lovely shredded cod and a mise en place which included olives, onions, garlic, tomatoes and potatoes, all of which we dutifully chopped and sautéed – this bacalao stuff is a breeze, or so I remembered, and delicious. So when I came home from Super Che with my package of certified Bacalao and started the process, I was unprepared for the wet dog smell that enveloped the kitchen each time I handled the soaking and softening fish. This is the down side. Picking the bones and shredding the fish also took longer than I imagined. No wonder Bacalao makes such rare appearances – expense and tedious preparation. This is definitely a labor of love. I followed a recipe by the wonderful Mexican food writer Karen Hursh Graber, Codfish with Tomatoes, Olives and Chiles: Bacalao a la Vizcaina. For this recipe, a great amount of good olive oil is necessary, as is roasting the tomatoes and onion on a comal to deepen their flavour. The sauce is delicious, but bacalao is meant to be eaten a bit on the dry side, so the sauce is reduced and concentrated to almost a paste before the addition of the fish and the potatoes. And so, our early Christmas lunch. We invited Jane, Alfredo and Frances for a Bacalao lunch. A good leafy green salad, a few sides – I made bruschetta topped with chopped tomatoes, olives, garlic, anchovies and basil, tiny chambray potatoes sautéed with rosemary and garlic, and steamed green beans dressed with sun dried tomatoes. The Bacalao was portioned and tasted. The reactions ranged from “fishy” to “good” to “seconds”. Alfredo ended up with 3 plates in front of him and dutifully ate them all, leaving just enough room for a coconut cupcake. My Bacalao was pretty good, but not as good as I remember Susanna's. But that wasn't the important part of our lunch. What was important was sitting at a table with friends, eating, talking, laughing, sharing a tradition…and Frances insisting on doing the dishes. What a wonderful girl. What a wonderful Christmas lunch. Merry Christmas and all the best for the New Year!
Kathy Taylor is a freelance writer who arrived in Huatulco in 2007 by sailboat. Her passions are food, sailing and Mexico. She writes about life in Huatulco: www.lavidahuatulco.blogspot.com
Eye 19
Dental
Services Directory Tours Yoga
Vet
Dr. Edith Gonzalez
Private Classes
Orthodontist,laser x-ray teeth cleaning children and adults La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 589 3155 Cel. 958 589 4645
Individual or Groups
Gardenia 1504 La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 587 0880 Cel. 958 101 1615 Ced. Prof. 399716 S.S.A 930 U.A.T.-UNAM
Jet ski tours Visit the bays and beaches of Huatulco driving your own jet ski. Guided tours and rentals.
janemexico1@yahoo.ca
Cel.044 958 1002806 Tel. 587 2818 www.huatulcowatersports.com
Esthetics
Live Nails
Plaza Madero La Crucecita Huatulco Manicure, Pedicure
Acrylic Nails/Toenails- 150 pesos Acrylic Nails- Feet &Hands Whole Body Wax- 250 pesos Plaza Oaxaca # 19, La Crucecita Relaxing Massage- 200 pesos Tel. 958 587 0293 958 585 0047
Automotive Flat Tire? Call Big Dog Tire Shop Calle Artesanos Mz. 3 Sector V, Huatulco
Tel 958 583 4035 Cel. 958 100 3393
Manicure, Pedicure Plaza Madero, La Crucecita 958 100 9998
Computers AUTOMOTRIZ DAYSA Brakes, Clutch, Suspension, Tuning, Transmission, Roadside Assistance A/C, Wash/ Wax, Computer Diagnostic All work Guaranteed Calle Bahia San Agustin, Santa Cruz Tel. 958 105 1771 Cel. 958 587 7457
Computer Maintenance/Repair. Ink Cartridges, Modems, Cables
Flamboyan #207, La Crucecita
Tel 958 583 4958 Cel 958 100 4000
Home Maintenance Decoratec Upholstery, seat covers, carpets, shades, Maintenance & Fumigation curtains, boat interiors. Tel. 958 587 1827 Colorin 307, La Crucecita, Cel. 958 585 0466 Tel/Fax 958 587 1505 splash_mfc@yahoo.com.mx
Jose Antonio Appliances A/C Repair Electric Plumbing
Located across from Construrama, Huatulco
Cel.958 589 3362 Cristales & Aluminio Huatulco
Aluminum doors, windows, Screens, repairs, glass
Palma Real/ Jazmin St 958 587 0825 20 Eye
Tel. 958 105 1606 Cel. 958 107 1460
Optometrist
Optica Selecta
Adolfo Suarez Navarro Eye Exams, Glasses, Sunglasses, Repairs Sabali 45, La Crucecita Tel. 958 583 4014
Todo Contra Incendios Automatic Doors Car/Home Alarms Tel. 958 587 2010 Cel. 958 106 7706 www.aycealarmas.com
Madcim Lumber Your Business Here! Sell and Rent Lumber For Construction
Cel. 958 587 8244 Tel. 958 587 1127 Huatulco, Oaxaca
Su Negocio Aqui! huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Katy's Cupcakes
Your Safety is our Goal Smoke Alarms, Extinguishers, Sale and Maintenance
Tel. 958 583 4720 Cel. 958 111 1970 Light fixtures & fans, lighting design & estimates Authorized Distribudor
Gardenia & Chachah La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel. 958 587 1150 Cel. 958 587 5176
Thank you to our Advertisers who make publishing the FOR YOUR HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING Huatulco Eye possible. Home style Christmas baking and savory treats If you read about Mincemeat Shortbread Quiches Perogies them here, mention it Call for selection and prices when you use Cell. 958 100 4484 their services.
mangomango755@hotmail.com
Huatulco Eye Real Estate Listings Sponsored By Remax Huatulco www.RemaxHuatulco.com www.HuatulcoRemax.com Tel. 958 587 0136
For Rent-The River HouseMonthly or Weekly www.theriverhouse-huatulco.com
Ocean View Rentals in Sta. Cruz Long term- 2bdrms. 2 bths, appliances$12,000 pesos/ mth. Short term- fully furnished, priced individually Tel. (958) 587 0333 contact@huatulcorealestate.com
Beachfront Home For SalePunta Santa Cruz.3 bdrms, 4 bths., a/c, stainless steel kitchen, access to beach, fully furnished
.Info: 958 587 2506, casavolare@hotmail.com http://web.me.com/swanfun/Site/casa_volare.html
HUGE Oceanfront Lot Btw. Playas La Boquilla & La Mina
400x 400 meters huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
For Sale: Ocean View Lot
Rooms For Rent-
Ocean View, B&B in Conejos For Sale: Brand new 2 bdr. apt. in Marina Park Plaza!Great Huatulco. Weekly rentals. location! Must see! For more www.bbaguaazul.com info.958 109 3154 (011 52) 958 581 0265
huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
For Sale: Ocean view 3br. house in Playa Panteon, Puerto Angel. Contact: 958 109 0153 huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
FOR SALE
Playa Aragon Beside San Agustinillo LOT FOR SALE 35 x 35 meters Ocean view huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
El Faro, Puerto Angel
LOT FOR SALE 200x 80 meterS Oceanfront huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
2 bdrm. 2 bath, 2nd floor facing water, totally furnished, fully FOR SALE: 2 bdrm. 2 bath, equipped kitchen. Real Marina ground floor, completely Blue $347000. Rental also. furnished, kitchen fully equipped.Contact Beatriz Blackstone cell Sueno del Mar $375000 USD. (958) 100 4389 Rental also. info@blackstonerealestatehuatulco. info: sgoer44@att.net com
Email us to list your property: huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Cuatunalco: 1 Hectare, Sistern,1 bathroom, septic 1 km to beach, Great for building cabanas! 80,000USD
Tel. 958 100 3393 huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Lot for Sale by Owner
Sector E, Santa Cruz Huatulco, Oaxaca 504 square meters Quaint , Residentitial Neighbourhood, Great Investment huatulcoeye@yahooo.com
All information regarding the Real Estate advertised herein has been provided by the individual party, the seller, or their agent. Huatulco Eye does NOT assume any responsibility for the validity of the information provided. Huatulco Eye is not liable for misinformation, typographical errors, errors of omission, misprints, or other errors in these advertisements. We reserve the right to revise or reject any advertisement. Huatulco Eye is not a Real Estate Broker and receives no commission upon the sale of the property Prospective buyers should contact a Real Estate agent for real estate advice and/or their lawyer for legal advice concerning the purchase of any properties advertised here.
Along the Riviera...
Photos By Mary Kubly
Dale and Jesus arriving at the Santa Cruz marina with 1st and 4th place aboard the White Shark at the Mahi Mahi Tournament in Huatulco.
Dancers from the Oaxaca State Contemporary Dance Company They performed in Santa Cruz in Nov. 17th,
Mexican Revolution Celebrations
Beyond the Riviera...
Two happy children are participants in the day program at CORAL
22 Eye
Donors meet with a shopkeeper who owes her business fortunes to Fundaci贸n en V铆a
Pilgrims at Juquila
December Ladies Breakfast Benefit at the Naval- Huatulco Info: 958 587 2456
Music: Chorus of Clarinets Art Show opens 5pm Plaza Madero, Huatulco Plaza de la Danza next to the Soledad Church runs until Dec. 10th FREE Oaxaca City
Real Estate Auction Huatulco
English AA Huatulco 8pm
www.redfieldgroup.com
Live Transission of Met Opera Handel- Rodelina
Music: Jazz - Miguel Sampiero Casa Colonial 4 - 6 pm $50 pesos at the purple door Miguel Negrete 105, Oax, Oax
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
Day of the Virgin of Juquila Talk: Photographic Exploration of Oaxaca Women's Loves Oaxaca Lending Library Pino Suárez 519 11am FREE
Rummage Sale and Craft Fair Oaxaca Lending Library Pino Suarez 509, Oax.Oax 9am-1pm.
Music: Virtuosos of Hungary Teatro Macedonio Alcalá Independencia & 5 de Mayo 8:30 pm - $200-300 pesos
Bodhi Day
Dog & Cat Spay/Neuter Clinic Zimatan until the 10th
English AA Huatulco 8pm
Dog & Cat Spay/Neuter Clinic Cuatunalco until the 17th
English AA Huatulco 8pm
Live Transission of Met Opera Gounod- Faust
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
Danza de las Plumas Teotitlan del Valle Starts at noon FREE Full day of parades and dances.
Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
Christmas Day
Hanukkah Begins at sunset
Radish Night Oax. Oax.
English AA Huatulco 8pm
Christmas Eve
Museum Admission is FREE in Mexico City
Opera Obsession Concert Camino Real 8pm
Hanukkah Ends at sunset
Kwanzaa Begins
Get Ready! Yoga Everyday! Variety of Instructors
30-Day Yoga Challlenge!
January 2nd-31st 8am- 9am More details to follow... www.yogahuatulcomexico.com
English AA Huatulco 8pm
New Year’s Eve
To announce your event for FREE on our calendar email details to: huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
Advertise in The Eye huatulcoeye@yahoo.com