Professional Hairdresser x Alan Howard May 2024

SPREAD A SMILE OF JOY

To make our industry, and indeed the world, a better place, we all need to play a part however we can. Whether it’s volunteering, donating, organising or just being kind to a stranger, helping charities not only builds and strengthens communities, it also strengthens our personal values in the knowledge that we have the power to help improve lives.

This knowledge is also a mood-booster – it makes you feel good and is empowering to know that you’re actually helping others, even in the smallest of ways. It makes us feel happier! Hairdressers are known for being charitable, which is also probably why hairdressing is considered one of the happiest professions to work in! (Tenuous link, but I like it).

With this in mind, this issue we thought we’d give a voice to all the special people working to make our industry a better place. You can get acquainted with all the different charities doing important work for the hair and beauty industry in our Special on page 27. We have also provided a link to each one if you feel moved to donate.

I’m also here to signal your ‘ONE MONTH TO GO’ reminder to get your Pro Hair Awards entries in. If you haven’t already, it is so easy to enter – turn to page 10 to find out more and then onto page 13 where we are sharing with you what you can expect as a Pro Hair Award winner on your Winner’s Journey. By the time we’ve finished with you,the whole industry will know exactly what you have achieved!

Good Luck x

HEADLINES

RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL CELEBRATES 35TH ANNUAL CONGRESS

Held at prestigious Glasgow venue, Òran Mór, Rainbow Room International recently gathered to celebrate its 35th Annual Congress. The evening commended the hard work and dedication of all the team members across the group’s eleven salons, with award categories including Self Improvement, Commendation, Social Media, Fantastic Hairdressing and Salon Team of the Year. Commenting on the night, Co-Founders of Rainbow Room International, Alan and Linda Stewart, said, “Our Annual Congress was a fantastic evening –it’s great to get all our teams together and see such a magical team spirit. We truly believe that each member of our team is special and deserves their own recognition of success.”

COS SAKKAS NAMED INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR 2024

TONI&GUY Global Creative Director and current British Hairdresser of the Year, Cos Sakkas, has been named International Hairdresser of the Year for a record-breaking third time. Presented by International Hairdressing Awards Founder, Mikel Luzea, and Global Ambassador, Sergi Bancells, as he was working in Cyprus, Cos is the first hairdresser to clinch the title three times. He said: “This is incredible, I am speechless, and I am honoured to win this again. This award isn’t just for me but for my family, my photographer Jack Eames, Lan Nguyen-Grealis on make-up and styling by Borna Prikaski, as well as the whole TONI&GUY global team.

REPPING IT REGIONALLY

Beauty Works has announced the launch of its new initiative aimed at empowering salons across the country with personalised, regional education. Recognising the need for more accessible and tailored educational support, the brand has introduced a team of 11 new regional education specialists. The group, led

ALL AROUND THE WORLD

Epres has recently introduced its Global Ambassador Program for licensed beauty professionals. This new initiative honours hairstylists across all regions that epres has significant presence including North America, the United Kingdom, Europe and Asia. With an ambassador roster of celebrity hairstylists across the globe,

ADMIRABLE ACCOLADE FOR HOB SALONS

HOB Salons was announced as SME Apprenticeship Employer of the Year at the tenth Annual Apprenticeship Conference (AAC) Gala Dinner. The salon group impressed judges with its commitment to supporting apprentices both within its own company and externally via the Apprenticeship Academy programme. Offering external training for apprentices from salons across the UK, the programme is recognised as a trailblazer within the hairdressing industry, providing the perfect springboard for those looking for a fulfilling career in hairdressing or barbering.

ALL NIGHT LONG!

Salon group Rush recently held its first After Dark session for 2024. Hosted by Rush International Creative Director, Andy Heasman, After Dark provided over 120 Rush employees with the opportunity to see the latest trends presented by the Rush Artistic Team and ask questions throughout the informal, up-close interactive session. The evening encouraged younger members of the Rush Artistic Team to take centre stage whilst Andy, along with Editorial Director, Tina Farey, and Artistic Team Member, Seung Ki Baek, was on hand to coach and guide the team during their preparation.

FREE NEW E-ACADEMY FOR SCHWARZKOPF PRO

Schwarzkopf Professional has recently launched the Schwarzkopf Pro eAcademy, an innovative new platform that is set to redefine hairdressing education for professionals worldwide. Boasting a vast library of pre-recorded educational and inspirational videos, the eAcademy is an online learning hub designed to empower hairdressing professionals with the latest trends, techniques and inspiration in the industry. To join the Schwarzkopf Pro eAcademy, professionals can register completely for free at www.rdr.link/HAT001.

Entries close June 1st 2024

Professional Hairdresser of the Year

Professional Colourist of the Year

Professional Extensionist of the Year

Professional Men’s Hair Stylist of the Year

Professional Textured Hair Stylist of the Year

Professional Bridal Stylist of the Year

Professional Freelance Hairdresser of the Year

Professional Young Talent of the Year

Professional Independent Salon of the Year

Professional Group Salon of the Year

Professional Sustainable Salon of the Year

Professional Home Salon of the Year

Entries close June 1st 2024

Head Influencer of the Year

Social Educator of the Year

Shot of the Year

Colour Transformation Video of the Year

Client Consultation Video of the Year

Salon Skit of the Year

THE WINNER TAKES IT ALL

Picture this –your name is announced, congratulations given, the champagne corks have popped and you find yourself having your photo taken, clutching your prized trophy! It’s an exciting moment, but amid the glitz and glamour of the night, what happens after your big win?

As a Pro Hair Award winner, we will be taking you on a bespoke Winner’s Journey throughout the year-long reign of your success, offering you coverage across all the Pro Hair platforms.

● As well as your coveted trophy to sit pride of place in your salon, you will also receive a luxury Winner’s Prize Bag.

● We will big up your win in our awards review, both in print and digitally.

● You will collaborate with us on an exclusive winner’s partnership across our socials.

● You will also get to work with us on a bespoke e-newsletter all about you, sent out to our entire database.

Good Luck!

● Imagine a whole page in Pro Hair magazine dedicated to you. As part of your prize, we will gift you your very own ‘Winner’s Memo’ – an editorial page customised to you and your work which we will help you to curate. This will sit in the popular Memo section of the magazine for everyone to read.

● There will also be the opportunity to attend educational Winner’s Days with our sponsors.

The ‘Professional Hairdresser of the Year’ will also be given the additional platform of a ‘Winner’s Word’ which will sit next to our Editorial Director, Nicola Shannon’s, letter at the front of the magazine.

PHIL SMITH TALKS ONE-ON-ONE TO SUCCESSFUL HAIRDRESSERS ABOUT THE PIVOTAL MOMENTS IN BUSINESS THAT HAVE MADE THEM STRONGER. FROM CAREER SETBACKS TO CRISES OF CONFIDENCE, PHIL FINDS OUT THE THINGS THAT HAVE GONE ‘WRONG’ AND THE LESSONS THESE SETBACKS HAVE TAUGHT HIS GUESTS ABOUT HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT.

TO FAIL HOW

THIS ISSUE, PHIL TALKS TO ANDREW BARTON. FROM HEADING UP MAJOR SALON EMPIRES TO WINNING BRITISH HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR, LAUNCHING HIS OWN PRODUCT RANGE AND REPRESENTING UK HAIRDRESSING THROUGHOUT THE WORLD, ANDREW IS SOMEONE THAT HAS PRETTY MUCH DONE IT ALL. PASSIONATE, INSPIRING AND A THOROUGHLY NICE GUY, HE TALKS TO PHIL ABOUT MAKING HUGE LEAPS, NEVER ACCEPTING ‘OKAY’, AND THE POWER OF NOW.

ANDREW, THANK YOU FOR CHATTING TO ME TODAY.

CAN YOU START BY TELLING ME ABOUT WHAT YOUR BIGGEST CAREER CHALLENGE HAS BEEN SO FAR?

I’d say the biggest challenge was making the leap from being employed to opening my own salon. Up until that point, I’d spent most of my career working with big brands, so I was used to the set-up of a large, solid salon group. At TONI&GUY (where you and I first met all those decades ago, Phil!), I was travelling with the Art Team all over the world. I was also a Salon Manager and Head of Education for TIGI. It got to a point where I was literally just living on planes! When the opportunity came up with Saks, I got really excited by what they were doing. When I joined, it was a 30-salon group, and we lifted it to about 130 salons in the seven or eight years that I was with them as Creative Director.

So, going from working in those large hairdressing empires to opening my own salon on the Piazza in Covent Garden was an enormous leap – it meant starting from absolute scratch! I’d always had the protection of working in larger organisations where there was somebody else to look after the cash flow, the business plan, the PR or whatever it was. The experience was a learning curve and the whole team worked really hard to build a great reputation, but the one thing I couldn’t overcome was a rent increase of 46% coming in. In honesty, there was not a chance in hell of keeping that shop open, even if we worked 24/7! I knew for a year before we closed that I was going to have to make my team of 30 staff redundant, but because we had to rake in what we could while we were still there, we had to carry on business as usual – that was the hardest bit for me.

THE FACT THAT YOU WERE SO CONCERNED FOR YOUR TEAM SHOWS WHAT SORT OF PERSON YOU ARE. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE THE BIGGEST LESSONS YOU LEARNT FROM THIS?

It was the only time that my professional working life has affected my health, which was the scariest thing of all. I had to really fight just to stay positive, but it taught me that people will pull together for a common good that they believe in. Individually, all of my team members had such a great reputation, so none of them suffered at all. I said to each of them, “Tell me which salon you want to go to and I will ring the owner personally for you.” And that’s what happened.

HOW HAS THIS EXPERIENCE HELPED YOU MAKE BETTER DECISIONS FOR THE FUTURE?

Straight after that small door in Covent Garden closed, an even bigger one opened. I was appointed as Creative Director of Urban Retreat at Harrods, where I had the honour and privilege of working with one of the main mentors in my career, George Hammer. Things were all great, but then Harrods decided they could save money by running the salon themselves. So, here I was again! I then went into freefall, thinking, ‘Where the hell am I going to work? What am I going to do with my days?’ I think it’s natural for people to feel a sense of panic, but what I’ve learned over the years is the power of now. To just take some time to breathe, control those feelings and be in the moment.

As it turned out, after Harrods, another exciting opportunity came my

way and I was appointed Creative Director of Headmasters. This was a big, commercial and very fulfilling role. Now I’m UK Creative Ambassador for Keune and work with Bloom Lifestyle Salons, which has taken me back in many ways to the boutique salon environment I enjoyed in Covent Garden. I suppose what I’ve learnt is to trust that it will all work out. Everything today feels like a perfect fit, so I truly believe everything happens for a reason.

YOU’RE DOING SO MANY ADMIRABLE THINGS TODAY, WHAT IS IT THAT DRIVES YOU?

What I think a lot about now is how I can use my voice to stretch the narrative of what hairdressing is. What I do is a gift, it really is, and it gives me a huge amount of strength, especially when it comes to facilitating education and training. I thrive off the energy from the people I train, from shifting their mindsets and helping them to feel good about what they’re doing. I think what drives my career is the diversity that I’ve got. I’m as happy sat around a boardroom table as I am teaching a student in a college or being on a shoot; I’m glad that every day is a little bit different! You know, after 30 years of doing hair, I would say from the bottom of my heart that the happiest day of the week is when I can just stand behind the chair and cut somebody’s hair.

HOW DOES SOMEONE CREATE SUCCESS IN THEIR CAREER? IS IT TALENT, EFFORT, MOTIVATION, LUCK? HOW MUCH OF SUCCESS IS BEING IN THE RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME?

I come from Barnsley – a very working-class town in Yorkshire – and I made the decision to move to London. The thing is, when you live in a place like London, there is absolutely a different amount of opportunity to seize. So, I think it’s more about getting yourself IN the right place.

I GUESS YOU COULD HAVE QUITE HAPPILY STAYED IN BARNSLEY WITH ALL YOUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY, BUT YOU CHOSE TO GO TO LONDON. YOU MADE YOUR OPPORTUNITIES HAPPEN.

I mean, it goes back to that thing about choices. I made the choice to push myself a bit further and yes, if I see an opportunity, I’ll take it.

WHEN WAS THE LAST TIME YOU DOUBTED YOURSELF AND HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THOSE FEELINGS?

Anybody would be lying if they said they don’t doubt themselves. I doubt myself often; I doubt my judgement, I doubt my decisions, but I’ve learnt tools to help me work through all those feelings. Breathing, exercise, a relatively good diet, not beating myself up when I have a glass of wine! It’s all about balance. I do a little affirmation every single night when I go to sleep and I make a list of everything I’ve been grateful

for that day. My husband would say the love of a good man helps as well (laughs), and he always tells me, “Manage your expectations, Barton!”

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL MOMENT RECENTLY?

I’ve got a few! One was launching Beehives, Bobs and Blowdries, an exhibition that tells the story of hair and hairdressing over the last 70 years in Britain –it’s been seen by over 70,000 people now. Also, being awarded the first ever honorary degree of Doctor of Arts given to a hairdresser for services to the industry, this made me so proud that hairdressing has finally been recognised as an art form in academia.

More recently, I’ve just launched a new podcast called Split Ends with my friend Olga Thompson (comedian and writer, @big_fat_greekmother). We met through our work as ambassadors for the anti-bullying charity, Kidscape. We formed a special bond having both been bullied ourselves, sharing a personal need to highlight the issue. The podcast is about the relationship between a hairdresser and their client, all those conversations we have as untrained therapists. It also comes back to what I mentioned before about wanting to stretch the narrative of what a hairdresser does.

WHO IS A SUCCESSFUL PERSON YOU ADMIRE AND WHAT LESSONS HAVE THEY TAUGHT YOU?

Professionally, I’ve got lots of people I consider to be mentors, but honestly the one person who’s had the biggest influence on my life is my mum.My mum was my absolute best friend in the world and, God bless her soul, she died 12 years ago, but I still talk to her every day. She was the one who taught me when to stop wanting more. She’d say, “Andrew, do you really need it?”

WHAT THREE PIECES OF ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE AT THE START OF THEIR CAREER?

The best advice I ever had was from the woman I was an apprentice for in Barnsley. Even though I didn’t understand it until I was much older, she told me at the age of 16 to “never accept ‘okay’ as a standard, because it means it’s not.” I use that a lot in all the work I do today. You know, when you finish somebody’s hair, do you make the choice to say ‘okay’ and get them out as soon as you can, or do you go the extra mile?

I know that’s just one piece of advice, not three, but I’ll say it three times over! It’s definitely stood the test of time for me in my professional and personal life.

REALLY GOOD POINT ANDREW, THANK YOU SO MUCH. YOU’VE BEEN REALLY HONEST AND I’VE LOVED THIS CHAT. IT REMINDS ME OF ALL THE LOVELY THINGS OUR JOB ALLOWS US TO DO.

EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE WiTH ERROL DOUGLAS MBE

Errol Douglas MBE has made a name for himself as the ultimate all-rounder in hairdressing. With equality, diversity and inclusivity high on his agenda, we want to find out what it takes to achieve a truly inclusive salon. In his exclusive series, Errol interviews hair industry heroes about their stance on inclusivity.

Hi LiSA, THANKS FOR CHATTiNG TO ME TODAY, I REALLY BELiEVE YOU ARE ONE OF THE MAiN VOiCES iN OUR iNDUSTRY SPREADiNG THE MESSAGE OF TEXTURE EQUALiTY RiGHT NOW.

WHAT DOES THE TERM iNCLUSiViTY MEAN TO YOU?

As you know, my brand is all about inclusivity and equality. It’s about judging people on who they are, rather than what they look like. For me, inclusivity is about every single human being, no matter the skin colour, hair texture, hair type or gender.

IS THERE ENOUGH OF A SPOTLiGHT ON THESE CONVERSATiONS iN THE HAiRDRESSiNG iNDUSTRY?

I don’t think so. I think there’s a caution around it because people don’t want to say the wrong thing. It’s not necessarily coming from a bad place, and I do think most hairdressers want to make anyone who walks through their doors feel valued and empowered, but sometimes there’s a little bit of confusion around what terminology to use and where to get education because of not wanting to offend anyone. There are also certain things that come up in the media –

THIS ISSUE, ERROL CHATS TO LISA FARRALL LISA IS A MULTI AWARD-WINNING SESSION STYLIST, HAIR DESIGNER AND EDUCATOR. SHE’S WORKED WITH SOME OF THE WORLD’S BIGGEST MUSIC ARTISTS AND GAINED PLAUDITS GLOBALLY FOR HER MISSION TO CHAMPION TEXTURE NEUTRALITY. THROUGH HER ACADEMY, AGENCY, SALON AND SHOP, LISA IS DRIVING A NEW NARRATIVE ON HAIR EQUALITY FOR ALL.

we saw this with Black Lives Matter – where everyone gets on it and becomes dedicated to making sure their hair salon caters to every single person, but then it fades away again. This conversation needs to be brought back in, not just because it’s topical but because it’s vital. We need more consistency.

WHAT DREW YOU TO THiS PARTiCULAR AREA OF HAiRDRESSiNG?

My thing has always been about wanting anyone to come to me, sit in my chair and like the service I give them – I’ve never wanted to turn anyone away. I was very aware of this right from the age of 15 when I was first working in a salon, so I chose to educate myself. I went and worked in an Afro Caribbean hair salon, where I earned my stripes. I didn’t decide it on a whim, I live that life. The women that taught me – strong, black women – said, “You know what you can do to pay us back? Carry on this message, speak about equality.” That was 20 years ago, and I’ve still got the receipts! (laughs).

WHO

WERE YOUR ROLE MODELS WHEN ADVANCiNG THROUGH THE HAiR iNDUSTRY?

Whilst I was studying, I met Marie, who was a lecturer at Birmingham University. Marie said to me, “if you really want to learn how to do afro hair, come and work in my salon.” And I did. When I started off, no one would sit in my chair, but I worked my way up and I earned my place. Aside from Marie, other people I

look up to would be the likes of Guido and Robert Lobetta –they have both broken so many boundaries.

WHO ARE THE OTHER PEOPLE YOU’D SAY ARE PROJECTiNG THE RiGHT KiND OF MESSAGES ABOUT iNCLUSiViTY RiGHT NOW?

More brands are definitely waking up and putting the right kind of imagery out there. As a session stylist myself, I tend to have a say in the casting, so when I’m doing creative direction for brands or magazines, I use my responsibility to make sure that the casting is diverse. The only way we’re going to see these positive messages come through is by ensuring every child can see themselves on a poster, no matter their colour, size, gender or hair texture.

HOW MUCH OF A PART DOES EDUCATiON PLAY iN THE QUEST FOR iNCLUSiViTY?

Education is so important, but you need to team that up with experience as well. So rather than doing a course and thinking, ‘okay, I’ve ticked that box’, you need to be implementing it. Maybe you offer textured clients to come in for a reduced rate on Sundays, or you put a sign in the window asking for models. You’ve got to be doing it to be able to be confident in it, and education gives you these tools to go out and be confident. I know the NVQ standard has been a huge topic for the past couple of years, and a lot of that comes from the educators. If we’ve got education in a syllabus, but the teachers don’t know how to teach it, then bring in specialists – there’s plenty of them! So, it’s about putting people in spaces that they are adequate to teach in.

WHAT’S YOUR BEST ADViCE TO OTHER SALON OWNERS WANTiNG TO OFFER A TRULY DiVERSE AND iNCLUSiVE SERViCE?

I would say just go for it. I am living proof that you can be from anywhere and achieve anything. I’m from a little town up north and I was always told not to do textured hair, but I was adamant and I was fearless. No hairstylist wants the anxiety and the sweaty palms of thinking ‘I’m going to just risk it and see what happens!’ If you’ve got an ego (which most of us have!) you don’t want to say, “I can’t”. You need to be honest with your clients and say, “you know what, we don’t specialise in texture YET, but I am working on it and if you’re willing to come on this journey with me and we can be open, honest and transparent with each other, sit in my chair, I’d love to have you.”

WHAT DOES ‘NORMAL’ HAiR MEAN THESE DAYS? WOULD YOU AGREE THAT iT’S AN OUTDATED TERM?

I’ve never known anything normal in my entire life! I think the term is very subjective – it’s different for every single person. We have to look at our terminology and rework it, reinforcing positive words. We’ve been using the words frizz and frizzy for so long in a negative way to sell products, but textured hair naturally has frizz and it’s beautiful. There are so many different negatives that we’ve reinforced with words, so it’s just about taking the power and positivity back. F*ck normal!

WHAT’S THE BEST TECHNiCAL TiP YOU COULD GiVE ANYONE REGARDiNG TYPE 4 HAiR?

Don’t be afraid to communicate with your client and always set out boundaries. Don’t just go in and start messing around with someone’s hair. Always ask permission to touch, and don’t be afraid to have an open and honest conversation.

“The women that taught me afro hair –strong, black women –said, “You know what you can do to pay us back? Carry on this message, speak about equality.”

TELL ME MORE ABOUT YOUR SPACE, WIG LONDON.

I launched WIG London in 2016 and it has always been a baby of mine. It’s a texture neutral education service that teaches individuals and salons to do every single hair type. I’d been working in session full time, and I was guest spotting too, so I built up a team of about 15 and we would go around to salons and teach. We would teach everything, not just texture, but this was where we found the biggest gap. In the end, we kind of became the go-to texture people. It grew from there and organically built into this team –a collective really –where no one owns anyone. It’s about sharing knowledge and education. At the beginning of this year, I decided to take WIG London to the next level and launched a physical space. It’s a co-working space for stylists to come in and guest spot. There’s no membership fee and anyone’s welcome to come to the club, but brands can also hire out the entire space to come and teach their own education.

WHAT iS THE ONE THiNG EVERY HAiRDRESSER SHOULD DO TO EDUCATE THEMSELVES ON TEXTURED HAiR?

Read a book. There’s so much education out there that it can become overwhelming. We’ve got TikTok, Instagram, Google and so much information and overstimulating stuff on the internet. There’s no reason not to look, but just remember that social media gives you a snippet. To get full in-depth knowledge, jump in with both feet, learn and see your confidence grow.

THE GENTLE INFUSION OF PEACH TONES

WITHIN THIS COLOUR SEAMLESSLY BLENDS ELEMENTS OF SPRING AND SUMMER, RESULTING IN A FRESH, ORGANIC SHADE THAT COMPLEMENTS SOFTER SKIN TONES.

Get the Look with Goldsworthy’s

The Pantone Colour of the Year, Peach Fuzz, is a soft, feminine colour that is a current favourite for many colourists. Lucy Boodell from Goldsworthy’s Cirencester explains how she recreated the colour for this look.

● Using diagonal sections in line with the hairline, take chunky weaves and apply L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio Multi Techniques Powder with 20vol in foils. Be bold! The wider your weave, the more impact the highlights will create.

● Apply your global colour around these foils, the formula for this look was L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel 7.3 + 7.4 + 7.35 with 20vol.

COUNTDOWN TO SUMMER: READY, SET, GLOW!

Tom Smith, evo hair Creative Colour Director

Colour this spring has been intensely rich, luxurious and glamorous, oozing shine and vitality. As cowgirl copper slowly gives way to bolder tones of true red, spring has firmly set the foundations for summer being the season of the brunette, with multiple tones of taupe, mushroom and burgundy offering a plethora of inspiration for those yearning for the deeper shades.

● Once developed and removed, apply your peach toner. For this look, the formula was L’Oréal Professionnel Dia Light 9 + 8.34. The more copper you add into the mix, the more vibrant the tone will be. For a true ‘soft peach’, try a quarter copper shade to three quarters base shade.

BRING ON THE BALAYAGE!

Offering the first ever leave-in treatment scientifically designed to treat the specific needs of balayage hair, Revlon Professional has launched the RE/START Color Balayage Care Cream. This multiaction, lightweight, vegan formula works to bring back the hair’s natural elasticity, boost smoothness and seal the surface to prevent colour from fading.

www.rdr.link/HAT002

memo

This summer, I also plan on using a lot of semi-permanent colour to give my clients ‘two colours for the price of one’ – for example, offering a wash of colour after the blonding work of a client’s regular highlighting appointment. This could be a semi-permanent wash of pink, peach, gold or copper – whatever the shade, as long as you use the correct product, this will gently wash off the hair to let their blonde shine back through! In this way, clients are receiving their regular highlight appointment to refresh their blonde, but with an added temporary wash of colour to enjoy for the first couple of weeks. To me, evo fab pro is the gold standard for this concept, as it’s designed to be totally customisable and fade out perfectly from the hair.

THE PERFECT PINK JO LOMAX

This look was all about transforming a classic blonde bob to a trend-leading look, inspiring clients to show off their personalities with this cool colour!

Once I had reached my desired blonde, I took a starshaped section over the crown to create a blonde veil, before using this even canvas for the metallic pink. I created the pink with Revlon Professional Color Excel 15ml 9.2, 10ml 9.12 and 5ml pink mix tone.

For the final touches, I used a deep amethyst for the root and edge framing, this not only accentuated the cut, but also added depth and dimension to the finished look.

I WANTED MY AWARD-WINNING ACID COLLECTION TO PUSH CREATIVE COLOUR TO ITS LIMITS. FUSING IMAGINATIVE SHADES WITH TECHNICAL CUTTING AND SESSION-INSPIRED TRENDS, THE INSPIRATION FOR THE COLLECTION WAS THE CONTRAST BETWEEN LIGHT AND DARK, RESULTING IN A RIOT OF COLOUR GUARANTEED TO STOP ANYONE IN THEIR TRACKS.

OLIVIA BINCH AT MARK LEESON

I’VE GOT A CRUSH ON YOU

This season, ghd is reigniting the power of being bold with its brandnew Colour Crush collection.

Featuring five iconic tools with heatresistant cases, including the firstever limited edition of the new duet style 2-in-1 hot air styler, the vibrant colour palette of radiant red, elemental blue, apricot crush and cyber lime offers a brilliant burst of colour for the new season.

www.rdr.link/HAT004

It’s all About the Angle!

Introducing Calligraphy Cut, a new global movement offering a completely fresh way of cutting hair. Held like a pen, the stainlesssteel blade is tilted at 3 degrees to cut hair at the optimum 21degree angle.

Crafted to create complete control, Calligraphy Cut uses an ergonomic handle to offer a clean section and fewer split ends.

The innovation was created by German hairdresser, inventor and author, Frank Brormann, who was inspired by the way flower stems are cut at an angle. Brormann put the theory to test on hair, developing a brand-new tool that cuts hair at an angle.

www.rdr.link/HAT005

LIFE LESSONS WITH CALLY BORG

When I started my business in 2009, I was completely winging it – I left Charles Worthington with a big paper diary, an old school BlackBerry, a wheely kit trolly and no social media! My default strategy has always been to ‘learn things the hard way and never give up’, and I’m now so grateful for all the lessons I’ve learnt from these knockbacks and mistakes. Without all the ups and downs of my career, I would have never become receptive to growth or change.

Here are my five biggest life lessons:

1Every business is unique. Learn to be true to yourself and your business values, it’s too easy to look at what others are doing and jump on the bandwagon when it may not be right for you.

2 When situations arise, take a step back and ask yourself, ‘What feels right here?’ ‘What’s causing unnecessary stress?’ ‘What direction feels most authentic for me right now?’ For example, when the lip-syncing and dance routine trend was huge on social media, it never felt right for my brand. Instead, I kept in my own lane and posted beautiful imagery, very few videos and nice writing to suit my audience – this is when I saw my best social growth!

THE GREAT BRITISH SKILL SWAP

M.A.D ABOUT SALONS

M.A.D About Salons, a new education platform which stands for ‘mentor, absorb and digest,’ has burst onto the hairdressing scene with a collaborative and affordable approach to hairdressing and salon business education. Wanting to create an equal playing field, the platform will also have funds available to salons that cannot afford education.

Founded by Janene Hawkins-Bush and Mikaela Martin, M.A.D About Salons offers a unique approach to learning by harnessing the power of skill swapping. The idea was conceived after Mikaela and Janene found themselves grappling with the challenges faced by salon owners, particularly the soaring costs of education and the multitude of expenses associated with running a business.

Janene says, “The concept of ‘swapping’ is becoming common place across a number of industries, including fashion and housing. We wanted to optimise this movement within the hairdressing world and bring a new era of collaboration to the industry.”

3 Sudden changes can initially throw you off track, but the power of the pivot can bring huge growth.

4 I’ve recently had a huge change, losing both of my stylists in the space of a few months, one going travelling and the other having a baby. Instead of immediately replacing them, I recognised that whilst this part of my journey has been fun, it has organically come to an end. Now, I’m focusing on going solo again, positively implementing a fresh strategy to get the best out of working on my own.

5 Don’t stick with something just because you know it – safe isn’t necessarily best.

LET’S ST Ā TOGETHER!

Stā Studios, one of London’s newest freelance spaces for creatives, is introducing a new rental framework – Stā Residency. Tailored for freelancers in search of a new, flexible and stable way to expand their business through evolving beyond the existing hourly rental model, Stā Residency offers a monthly rental option.

As well as the benefits of being part of Stā Studios, the advantages of the new Residency are designed to support the financial planning and growth of the freelancer’s business. Each resident is allocated a specific area within Stā Studios, ensuring consistency and the freedom to establish their workspace.

Founder, Samantha Cusick, comments, “Stā Residency is more than just a service enhancement; we pledge to cultivate a closer, more supportive community within Stā Studios, empowering freelancers to thrive in an environment designed with their growth in mind.”

UK Hairstylist and Podcaster Wins Prestigious Global Award

In an excellent achievement, the How to Cut it podcast, hosted and produced by hairstylist and podcaster, Dom Lehane, has emerged as the winner of the ‘Global Industry Podcast Award’ at the illustrious Hairbrained Video Awards event held in New York.

Since its inception in March 2017, How to Cut it has become a cornerstone in the hair industry, captivating audiences with its unparalleled insights, inspirations and valuable information. Dom’s interviews with industry luminaries, including Trevor Sorbie, Charles Worthington and Robert Lobetta, have captivated listeners worldwide.

Reflecting on this win, Dom says, “After seven years of hosting, producing and publishing this weekly podcast, this recognition truly validates the hard work and dedication I’ve put into the show.”

MIRROR MIRROR ON THE SCREEN

THE EVOLUTION OF INVISIBLE ADVERTISING

In the midst of this current Social Media minefield, Founder of Content Kweens and Hairdressing Social Media Consultant, Ben Lifton,is a seasoned business coach with a passion for digital marketing and content creation. Continuing his exclusive series, Ben’s mission is to equip hair pros with the tools, support and knowledge necessary to market oneself professionally online.

‘Deinfluencing’ began as a trend on TikTok with beauty influencers warning their followers about products they shouldn’t buy. It is seen as a response to the overconsumption that is now openly encouraged in the digital age. With #deinfluencing now reaching nearly 600 million views online, the movement illustrates our growing scepticism towards sponsored content and adverts on social media.

I believe the ‘deinfluencing’ trend can be linked back to the growing awareness of how influencer marketing actually works, with many consumers now feeling ‘influencer fatigue’ as they become more aware that items on influencers’ pages are actually paid-for or sponsored. It’s human nature to resist being sold to and as a result, customers are seeking more authentic content elsewhere online.

content. It is often shot on a smartphone and involves little editing, making it more time efficient and budget friendly.

It’s important to note, however, that lo-fi doesn’t translate to low effort, nor is it a pass to be less thoughtful or less strategic about the narrative of the content. The secret of lo-fi content is in the editing process. Since Instagram and TikTok have made their in-house video editing platforms much more advanced, it’s now easier than ever to create lo-fi content with the following functions:

“A lot of advertising is now integratedseamlessly into everyday content creation, making it often invisible to the naked eye.”

As we know, user-generated content (UGC) is one of the most effective ways for brands to promote their products on social media – it offers a natural, unpolished aesthetic that is completely subtle and often goes undetected by the consumer. With ‘deinfluencing’ on the rise, UGC is now expected to experience substantial growth from 2024 to 2030.

As brands and content creators embrace the authentic and less-corporate aesthetic of UGC, product placement takes on a new dimension. A lot of advertising is now seamlessly integrated into everyday content creation, making it often invisible to the naked eye.

In turn, this UGC aesthetic goes hand in hand with ‘lo-fi’ content (low-fidelity). Lo-fi content looks and feels more authentic and less glossy than traditional branded social

Text Overlays: These can provide additional context to the video, adding anecdotes, captions, subtitles and information. This aligns well with the lo-fi aesthetic, making the content feel more authentic.

Text-to-Speech: This feature not only enhances the content but also improves its accessibility for viewers with disabilities. It adds an element of spontaneity, making the video feel more genuine.

Voice Overs: These bridge the gap between the creator and the consumer, allowing them to forge more trust.

SO, WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR YOU?

The days of posting product packshots are over; today, it’s all about weaving the products into your transformation videos and offering your followers a relatable and immersive experience. UGC and lo-fi content works to amplify content authenticity, ultimately strengthening the bond between you and your audience.

https://www.contentkweens.com/@contentkweens

A GOOD HEAD forBUSINESS

KEEP IT UP MOTHERS, YOU’RE DOING GREAT

Continuing her exclusive series, , CEO of HOB Salons, shares her practical business expertise with you. This month, Natasha discusses the balancing act between having a career and motherhood.

Having recently been promoted to CEO of HOB Salons, I have spent some time reflecting on my 19-year journey. I’ve thought about what it’s taken to get to this point, whilst having my two beautiful children, Megan and Max, along the way.

My friends often ask me, ‘how do you do it?!’ and by ‘it’ they mean having a career that holds me responsible for some 350+ team members, whilst finding the delicate balance between being a good enough mother, wife, daughter, sister, friend... and the list goes on! But what I’ve come to realise over the years is that this juggling act is more of a nuanced dance than a precise science and, at times, it can even feel like a challenging tightrope walk.

workplace after having their children. For one, childcare is extortionate and often makes returning to work seem pointless when the majority of our salary is being spent on someone else looking after our children. Then there’s the worry that when our kids do eventually go to nursery or school, you receive the phone call that your child isn’t well and you have to keep them at home for 48 hours – letting your co-workers or clients down.

However, embracing the imperfections of this balancing act has been key to my journey. I’ll never forget the words my mother said to me many years ago that have stayed with me every day since, “you don’t have to be the best mother or the best anything, you just have to be good enough.” And she was right.

The demands of leading a successful company and fulfilling the responsibilities of motherhood are undeniably overwhelming at times, but acknowledging that I CAN do both has brought a sense of acceptance and resilience that I feel proud of – particularly as a woman.

My own thoughts and feelings towards having a career and juggling motherhood at the same time really has influenced my approach as a leader within the company. It’s enabled me to have empathy towards the challenges mothers are faced with within the workplace, and it has shaped a culture at HOB that values flexibility and opportunities for all. Understanding the diverse needs of our teams has allowed me to create an environment where individuals can thrive both professionally and personally.

Over the last decade, there have been so many barriers that have prevented women from returning to the

However, even with all these worries, I did return to work after three months with my first child and six months with my second, and it was the best decision I ever made. I loved the warm cup of tea I got to drink without interruptions when I first got into the office, and for people to call me by my actual name, rather than ‘Megan’s mum’! I loved challenging myself again in a different way, outside of getting my children to sleep through the night or to drop a bottle. I also had so much gratitude towards Akin, Clive and Paul for allowing me to transition back into work at a pace that felt right for me and my children. I didn’t lose my confidence being out of the work environment for too long, and because I had my identity back, it enabled me to really appreciate the time I had with my family, making me feel like a better mother to my kids.

My eldest, Megan, is going to be 12 next month, and the last decade has just flown by in a flash! I’m striving to be a role model for my children and consciously teaching them about resilience, ambition and the pursuit of passion, in the same way my parents did with me. It is possible to be a good enough mother and to have a career at the same time, whether that’s being a part-time or full-time stylist, colourist, front of house, salon owner or CEO.

The company you’re a part of will make all the difference in achieving a work/life balance; having the HOB family surrounding me has been exactly what I needed for work to become an extension of my home.

NEED-to-KNOW TRICHO

TAKING THE PLUNGE INTO TRICHOLOGY

Nioxin ambassador and globally recognised trichologist, Mark Blake (MIT WTS IAT), is on a mission to increase the number of practicing trichologists within the hairdressing industry.

Trichology has never been so in demand. Considering that 50% of people have some form of hair loss or thinning hair, every salon should have a thinning hair expert in the same way they have a colour specialist. I really believe this is the biggest untapped market in hairdressing, and it presents a business opportunity like no other. Depending on where you train, gaining a trichology qualification can take up to two years. Courses are available through The Institute of Trichologists or TrichoCare. I trained with the former, and it’s the best move I’ve ever made.

Before you take the plunge however, you might want to arm yourself with some trichology facts and figures to get you off the starting block:

● Hair can weigh 12-18% more when it’s wet, and wet hair can stretch 30% longer than dry hair.

● The entire body has a total of approximately five million hair follicles.

● We’re born with all of our hair follicles and we don’t develop any more as we age.

● Red heads have approximately 90,000 follicles, blondes 150,000 follicles and brunettes 100,000-110,000.

● Hair is the second most prolific cell producer in the body after bone marrow. This means the cells in the follicle are very active metabolically and require a lot of energy for optimum hair growth. To put this into context, you grow between 0.3mm - 0.5mm of hair a day and you have between 100,000 – 150,000 hairs on your head. If all these individual hairs were combined together, you would grow around 36 meters of hair a day – that’s 1Km a month!

● It takes around 160 calories to grow one gram of hair, which is equivalent to a 35-minute walk or a 22-minute aerobics class.

● When you start a diet, you may experience hair shedding around two months later. This may last for around six months, but it can be longer depending on how restrictive the diet is. Eating a well-balanced diet with the recommended levels of vitamins and minerals may help to reduce hair loss naturally.

● It’s thought that most hairbrushes contain around 3500 colonies of bacteria per square inch! Ideally, you should be advising clients to wash their hairbrush once a week, however most people could likely get away with washing it once a month.

● After Covid, women were five times more likely to lose hair than men.

● The UK creates around 6.5 million kilograms of human hair waste a year.

● Studies have shown that grey hair grows slightly faster and thicker than standard pigmented hair.

● Men statistically recede on the right side more than the left. This means male balding is often asymmetrical.

In Da Club!

“My mission is to motivate , inspire and support hair and beauty professionals... and that’s you, darling!”

After over 20 years dedicated to her career as a hair stylist and salon owner, Vivienne’s journey into social media education was entirely unexpected. Upon returning from maternity leave to find stagnant growth in her salon’s clientele, she turned to Instagram to attract and connect with her ‘Perfect Fit Clients’, catapulting the salon’s average of 17 new clients a month to 111.

The rapid growth of her salon left everyone asking one question, ‘HOW did she do that?!’

While there are plenty of online ‘gurus’ offering advice to help people grow their online presence, Vivienne distinguishes herself by bringing a depth of practical knowledge that sets her apart.

For those ready to dive right in, on the website you will find a wealth of immediately available resources.

Vivienne’s Mini Courses serve as the perfect introduction to Instagram, learning the basics of using the app and creating reels and Canva graphics. You can then

“You’ve spent years training to do what you do best, but no one has ever taught you how to become a head-turning, life-of-the-party social media presence,

delve deeper with the Social Media Bootcamp, this five module course will have you jumping with joy as you unlock the secrets of visibility, engagement, planning and posting with purpose.

What’s more, the recently released Glow Up is a trio of masterclasses delivering invaluable insight into how to use social media to ignite growth in your business. Join over 100 hair and beauty professionals learning where they have been going wrong, and how to get it right!

Vivienne’s iconic, game-changing Autumn Social Club, is available in a new ‘pick n’ mix’ style format this year, allowing learners to purchase the modules that are most suitable to them and their positioning in the industry. This course is an immersive learning experience that will give you the knowledge and tools to become a social media powerhouse.

Alternatively, there are multiple ways you can work personally with The Hairdresser’s Social Club on a monthly basis. From joining The Content Hub, which gives members access to a treasure trove of content ideas, to A-List or Amplify Academy small group and 1:1 mentorship.

To learn more or to sign up to The Hairdresser’s Social Club, visit: www.thehairdresserssocialclub.com/

Vivienne Johns is the mind behind THE HAIRDRESSER’S SOCIAL CLUB. With her unique blend of hands-on experience and digital-savvy knowledge, Vivienne has helped over 7,000 industry professionals harness the power of social media.

Building

A Better Tomorrow

Come with us as we take a deep dive into the different charities doing important work for the hair and beauty industry today. From mental health and bereavement to poverty, illness and homelessness, we want to shine a light on all of the special people working to make our industry a better place…

Hair & Care

Founded in 2019 by international hairstylist, Anna Cofone, Hair & Care aims to educate, empower and inspire blind and low-vision women and girls through haircare. The initiative was inspired by Anna’s personal experience of growing up with a father who was blind and a desire

“Growing up, the importance of self-care was a constant reminder,” Anna explains. “My father was blind, and I vividly remember people often complimenting his appearance. He would wear a crisp white shirt, a tailored blue suit and red tie, with hair groomed and shoes always shined. Looking back, I realise that this was his own personal way of helping himself to feel seen. Since his passing, it has been a lifelong goal to use my skills in hairdressing to help empower and inspire people with disabilities, particularly the blind.

“Since our inception, we have supported over 400 women and girls, bringing together a diverse group aged 12 to 70. We’ve been awarded four different grants and raised over £10,000 through fundraising events. We run monthly workshops to introduce blind and low-vision women and young girls to the basics of haircare.

“With research showing that only 10% of beauty businesses have a specific strategy to accommodate disabled individuals, Hair & Care believes that the industry urgently needs to become more accessible, and we

are actively challenging brands to build accessibility into their pipelines.

“In our efforts, we collaborate with a network of volunteer hairstylists to work alongside us during the workshops. Each volunteer has received specialised training to enhance their ability to assist our attendees effectively, from how to better support blind and low-vision people, to the correct vocabulary and safeguarding. By participating as volunteers in our workshops, these hairstylists are not only supporting the disabled community, but also cultivating a more empathetic hair industry.

“In London Fashion Week AW24, Hair & Care created the first fashion week show accessible for the blind community. Supported by Authentic Beauty Concept, Olivia Garden EU and Easydry, the team worked tirelessly with Sinéad O’Dwyer to make the show accessible. Implementing measures such as audio descriptions of the fashion looks, the show was a world-first event and major moment for the fashion industry as well as the blind and low-vision community.”

Learn more about Hair & Care here: www.rdr.link/HAT006

Haircuts4Homeless

They say charity begins at home, but what about the people who don’t have a place to call their own?

“We are talking about people who frequently say they feel invisible and lonely, so for someone to touch them and have a conversation means the world; it really is a beautiful thing to witness.”

Stewart Roberts has been on a 10-year mission to humanise the face of homelessness and bring hope through the simple gesture of a haircut. Haircuts4Homeless (H4H) was established by Stewart in 2014, and since then it has opened more than 70 projects across the UK and Ireland, recruited 600 volunteers and given over 50,000 free haircuts.

Having spent 40 years in the hair business, Stewart was inspired to set up the charity while he was volunteering for the Salvation Army. Now in its tenth year, H4H has built a community of skilled hairdressing volunteers who give their time free of charge to provide haircuts for homeless people. The registered charity operates around the UK, from Brighton to Birmingham; Peterborough to Portsmouth, offering regular haircuts to the homeless.

Each of its centres has approximately five volunteers and operates once a month giving around 25-30 haircuts. This equates to approximately 1,680 free haircuts a month and over 20,000 per year. Its return rate for guests is around 50% regulars.

Despite the stats, Stewart says, “The impact of our work is uniquely measured in smiles. It may sound flippant, but the best measurement is the before and after photos and videos we have of the guests. You see them transform before your eyes –their demeanour, mood and confidence boosted with the service we give. We often get thanked by guests whose haircut has helped them to get the job after an interview or to see their children for the first time in a long time and feel proud of their appearance. Most hairdressers aim to keep a client for life, but for us it’s great when we see a guest for the last time because it usually means they have been allocated accommodation and are moving on in their life.”

Stewart is proud of the fact that H4H is constantly contacted by hairdressers wanting to join them and underlines that it’s a smooth process to get involved. “The first thing we do is send them an instructional video of what is required to volunteer. Once we find out where they are based, we give them the opportunity to come along to a session. If there is not one in their area, we suggest they can start one of their own. Once they’ve found the right venue, we support in every way we can to show them how to be a team leader and how the collaboration works.”

Once each project is established, the charity then asks volunteers to give just half a day, once a month.

Manifesto London is one such business that has got involved. “In 2022, we joined forces with H4H in a pledge to spread the goodwill of its community even further,”

Manifesto Co-Director, Mikey Pearson, explains. “We work with them as ambassadors, adding £1 to the charge for selected H4H services, which will then go towards a haircut for a person in need. We already had an established connection and when we got the call from Stewart asking if we could help at our local shelter, we didn’t hesitate to send two of our team to spend an afternoon cutting and styling hair.”

To donate a £4 haircut to a homeless person, simply text 4haircut to 70470 (You will be charged £4 plus your mobile fee.)

In itself, it may seem like the charity is offering something quite straightforward, but Stewart will tell you that the positive benefits of its work go way beyond a free haircut. “We treat all of our guests with the same respect as if they were a client in a salon,” he says. “We have to adapt to the environment we are in - such as women’s refuges and homeless residential units. Sometimes, we will have the facility for the guest to shampoo their hair, enabling us to give a full cut and blow-dry experience. When it’s more of a drop-in centre, we have to usually rely on a dry cut, but still offer a consultation, conversation and – most important of all – respect.”

Stewart was awarded the MBE for his charitable work in the New Year’s Honours list 2022. In the same year, H4H launched its Ambassador Programme, which spreads the goodwill of its community of skilled hairdressing volunteers even further. The Ambassador Programme is a way for hair salons, barbers and spas throughout the UK to support the charity by adding a donation to their services, which goes towards a haircut for a person in need.

Fundraising efforts are a continuous challenge and Stewart openly admits to the charity’s ever-growing need for support. “One of people’s basic rights is for them to feel good about themselves and H4H has always been about helping people to achieve that. The hairdressing industry is known for its generosity and willingness to help people – we see that in the people who so readily come to us as volunteers – but we want to empower even more homeless people to reclaim the self-worth and dignity they deserve. Whether it’s a little or a lot, we rely on ongoing support, which enables us to deliver, grow and develop this service for the homeless.”

A decade on, H4H is changing the lives of so many people. Stewart puts this down to one simple reason. “The smallest of actions – such as a haircut – can have the greatest effect on someone’s life. There is something special about any profession that lays hands on people. Human touch instantly breaks down barriers, particularly in these disconnected times.”

To find out more about becoming an ambassador or volunteer, visit www.rdr.link/HAT007

Remi Cachet x Matter of Trust

Understanding that stylists don’t enjoy seeing good hair extensions go to waste, Remi Cachet teamed up with US-based charity, Matter of Trust, for the launch of the Hair Recycling Scheme in 2018. The scheme allows stylists to send their clients’ old and unwanted hair extensions back to Remi Cachet, before they are sent on to a UK subsidiary of the charity.

The extensions are then woven into hair mats by the charity to absorb oil and collect debris from oceans and rivers, preventing water contamination and aiding ocean life.

However, the brand then identified that many of the returned hair extensions still had some life left in them, resulting in a further expansion of the scheme. Partnering up with Little Lady Locks, a children’s hair loss charity, the Remi Cachet team now select the hair that is still in great condition to be sent off and made into custom wigs and hair pieces. Once these wigs and hair pieces are at the end of their lifespan, they are also sent for recycling, so nothing goes to waste.

To encourage ‘greener’ efforts in the industry, the scheme is open to all hair brands and all types of hair extensions, not exclusively Remi Cachet. Over the last 12 months, Remi Cachet has received 74kg of hair to be recycled.

Remi Cachet also recognises the efforts of its hair recycling donors with its Recycler of the Year Award. Joanne Fox, Hair by Joanne, won this in 2023. She explains, “Since the Remi Cachet Recycling scheme started, I haven’t thrown away any hair, I even save all my exclusive packaging so it can be reused too! I try hard to recycle at home and I think it is really important that we all do our bit to help our planet. I would urge any hair extensionist who throws hair in the bin to stop and donate it to this amazing scheme.”

To find out more, visit www.rdr.link/HAT008

Menspire x SPOT

In 2015, Menspire launched its first international project after raising just over £10,000 for an orphanage in India. Co-owners, Samuel Palmer and Josh Lamonaca, had the privilege of visiting the orphanage and meeting the children for themselves. The pair have now made it their goal to consistently do international charity work.

Josh explains: “As a result of us promoting our charity work on our social platforms, we were able to connect with SPOT (Supporting the People of Tomorrow). Founded in 2016, this charity organisation works to provide less-fortunate children – those that are malnourished, orphaned and living in poor conditions – a glimpse into the life of the western world. It is SPOT’s goal to give these orphans state-of-the-art accommodation and a high level of education.

“To help start work on building the SPOT Academy, we held fundraisers in our local communities and raised money online. We wanted to help mould these young, orphaned children into adults and leaders that had goals for what they wanted to achieve in life. It was our aim to help them attain all the technical skills that were needed for them to achieve these goals.

matching uniforms, greeted us with perfect manners and enthusiasm, and we set up a cutting area for the staff and orphans. It was truly amazing for the Menspire team to cut hair in the scorching sun of Gambia, a memory I will never forget.

“As football is an international language, we decided a SPOT v Menspire football match could be a lot of fun, as well as a real bonding moment. After dominating the game in the 35-degree heat of Gambia, the SPOT team were victorious against Menspire! It was phenomenal to see just how happy these orphans are. The discipline and regimented systems put in place in the SPOT Academy were clearly shown through the respect and manners of the children. The SPOT Academy has set a new bar for orphanages in Gambia, and its accommodation and education is now a blueprint for similar projects in developing countries.

“The next step was physically building the SPOT Academy in Gambia, which was no easy task. In 2018, the Menspire team were invited out, and we arrived with food, toys and clothes for the orphans. It was heart-warming to witness how much these items meant to these kids, items that we take for granted in the western world. Having followed the project for

“It was a real honour to have the opportunity to visit the SPOT Project. It meant so much to every single one of the Menspire Team to finally see the progress of a project we have been fundraising for all these years. We can’t wait to get back out there! We will continue to stand side by side with SPOT and raise more funds for this incredible project.”

Learn more at www.rdr.link/HAT009

Shaping Futures from Schwarzkopf Professional

Schwarzkopf Professional is sharing the transformative impact its hairdressing education initiative has had on young people in the Philippines this year.

Shaping Futures, in partnership with SOS Children’s Villages in the Philippines, is a training programme that gives young people from developing countries the chance to learn the universal skill of hairdressing. Over the course of six weeks, groups of volunteers take the trip of a lifetime, using their hairdressing know-how to support a group of young people to not only learn a new trade but to gain the skills they need to build a profitable and sustainable career.

Born from a small Japanese project with Cambodian street children in 2008, Shaping Futures evolved into a global initiative in 2010 when Schwarzkopf Professional

partnered with SOS Children’s Villages – a leading non-profit organisation. Since then, Shaping Futures has helped thousands of young people across 27 countries gain valuable skills to move towards a brighter future.

Now in its 13th year, the Shaping Futures initiative, supported by Fritz Henkel Stiftung, aims to empower disadvantaged young people by giving them the tools and confidence to create a better future for themselves. Following the training, Schwarzkopf Professional also organises follow-up apprenticeships, so graduates can hone their skills and start to earn a living.

Romil Rayos, SOS Children’s Villages Deputy National Director, says, “I would like to thank Henkel for partnering with SOS Children’s Villages in the Philippines in presenting our youth with this opportunity for employment. When youth are given chances to improve themselves, they will be empowered to face their future.”

Jerome Wilson, Schwarzkopf Shaping Futures volunteer, says, “If I can share my privilege or a little bit of knowledge – or even give someone a little bit of confidence – I would be proud with the outcome of this project. Family is so important, and feeling accepted is something that Shaping Futures excels in by making people feel they belong to a family. My only expectation from the trainees is to grab the knowledge and grab the opportunity.”

Here’s what this year’s trainees had to say about their experience with Shaping Futures:

“The pandemic seriously affected me and my family – I lost my job while my husband was just a farmer. I joined the programme because I wanted to help out my family and have a business. I would also like to share what I have learnt with others.”

Lydia Rocafort, trainee at SOS Children’s Village Tacloban.

“When I was young, I was always interested in hairdressing. Now I will be able to help my parents out financially.”

Jerelyn Del Rey, trainee at SOS Children’s Village Lipa.

“It has meant a great deal to me to be part of this training, not everyone gets to be part of something like this. With this training, you are getting taught something that will lead to a job in the future.”

Joana Grado, trainee at SOS Children’s Village Manila.

“I would like to work so that I am able to help my family because it pains me to see my parents work so hard while I’m not doing anything. When I became part of the project, it was one of the happiest moments of my life. I told myself, this is it. It gave me hope to see what and where I can be.”

Delmark Cabuguas, trainee at SOS Children’s Village Davad.

“I have a history of cerebral schistosomiasis. Every two years I take medicine so that I won’t have seizures. This programme is important to me because I have more chances to find a job and more opportunities waiting for me. It is also possible for me to start a business.”

Jeffrey Espina, trainee at SOS Children’s Village Tacloban.

The Hair & Beauty Charity

Run exclusively by volunteers, The Hair & Beauty Charity works to provide practical and financial support to hair and beauty professionals who have fallen on hard times. The organisation has an aim of supporting the individuals and their families, not their businesses. Where possible, it provides the support needed for these beneficiaries to get back on their feet and back to work.

In the last five years, the charity has received a significant increase in applications from people under the age of 40, as well as more men, domestic abuse victims and those suffering from mental health issues. All of these applications are from individuals that are severely struggling or unable to work due to their circumstances.

In many instances, the Hair and Beauty Charity is their last hope; they’ve exhausted every other avenue, including their friends and family, and find themselves with nowhere else to turn. Remember, the work of

For further information, please visit www.rdr.link/HAT010

On top of its corporate sponsorships, the charity asks salons and companies if they can donate £20.00 every month as part of its Supporter Campaign. You can also support as an individual from just £5.00 per month.

Setting up a monthly donation is easy, visit www.rdr.link/HAT011

Great Lengths x The Little Princess Trust

This partnership, initiated by James Henderson, Owner of M Hair Extensions in Nottingham and now Great Lengths Global Little Princess Trust Ambassador, underscores the brand’s commitment to making a positive impact on communities worldwide. James has recently been awarded ‘Supreme Status’, making his salon the only one across the entire country to achieve this level of recognition. This achievement is partly attributed to his commitment and contributions to the Little Princess Trust.

“I am immensely proud to work alongside this remarkable charity. The partnership not only signifies a commitment to providing high-quality hair solutions, but also underscores our shared dedication to making a tangible difference in the lives of children battling hair loss.”

– James Henderson, Great Lengths Global Little Princess Trust Ambassador.

Great Lengths offers a unique donation scheme in over 1500 salons across the UK and Ireland, as well as over 60 countries globally. Clients who opt for Great Lengths extensions have the opportunity to change lives by donating their used

Great Lengths, premium extension brand, is incredibly proud of its ongoing partnership with the Little Princess Trust, a UK-based charity dedicated to providing real hair wigs to children and young people who have lost their hair due to cancer treatment or other medical conditions.

“At Great Lengths, we believe in the power of giving back and supporting meaningful causes,” says Joscelin McCourt, CEO of HB Collective, the home of Great Lengths. “Our partnership with the Little Princess Trust reflects our commitment to making a positive impact on the lives of children and young people.”

The brand’s dedication to ethicality and hair quality ensures that only 100% human hair extensions are accepted by the Little Princess Trust. The company meticulously selects the finest quality human hair through a traceable and ethical process, starting in India and continuing at its production facility near Rome, Italy. All processed hair is Remy and Double Drawn, meaning it maintains its natural qualities and is carefully matched according to different lengths.

“We are honoured to be associated with the Little Princess Trust and to play a role in supporting children and young people facing hair loss,” adds Joscelin. “By choosing Great Lengths extensions, clients not only enhance their own hair, but also contribute to a greater cause, making a difference in the lives of those in need. Participating in the donation scheme costs nothing for clients and salons alike, offering a meaningful way for salons to give back to their communities and reduce waste.”

For further information about Great Lengths and its partnership with the Little Princess Trust visit, www.rdr.link/HAT012

STEVEN SMART

HAIR: Steven Smart MAKE-UP: Debra Smart STYLING: Ginger Ninja PHOTOGRAPHY: Jamie Blanshard

The Daring Crowd are the trendsetters, the people who aren’t afraid to embrace who they really are and show the world. Outgoing, courageous and selfassured, they are the pioneering change-makers of their generations, hoping for a better world and going out to make it happen. They are intelligent, worldly, wised-up on social issues and determined to make society a better place.

CROWD DARING

Brave, bold and boisterous just got a new look...

HAIR: Brendnetta Ashley, Maggie Hancock, Nick Irwin

PHOTOGRAPHY: Raffaele Cariou

“Inspired by how Gen Z are their true selves and want to stand out, this look can be worn in multiple styles and is all about making a statement and the beauty of curly hair.”

Brendnetta Ashley

“I drew inspiration from the modern woman. This is a trend that is motivating and simple to achieve in everyday life, for both the client and the stylist.”

Maggie Hancock

OLIVIA

COLOUR:

MAKE-UP: Lauren Mathis

STYLING: M+R

PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles

PRODUCTS: Revlon Professional

HAIR: Olivia Binch at Mark Leeson

Mark Leeson

Freelance

Own Your Niche

LACEY HUNTER-FELTON, Co-Founder of Hunter Collective, shares the importance of owning, honing and believing in your niche for building a thriving freelance business.

Working independently as a freelance or self-employed stylist often means that you don’t have the structure of an established salon brand when defining your niche. With this in mind, it’s important you answer these questions for yourself:

What is your aesthetic? What does your workspace say about you?

Who are your clients? Why do they come to you?

Believe in your brand

Believing in the things that inspire you will inspire your clients –everything from the work you create and the products you use, to the coffee that you serve and how you

market your business. Believing in your niche is all about confidence. It’s about identifying the elements that you love about your business (and what your current and future clients will love) and seeing the value in that. When you feel passionately about something, it will come through in what you do. With Hunter Collective, I’m very passionate about creating a clean, clutter-free environment, lots of natural light and candles scenting the spaces to ensure our members feel relaxed. When you walk into Hunter Collective, there are visual and sensorial elements that reflect our brand everywhere, and it is this niche environment that inspires and informs my community.

Identify your aesthetic

I get asked a lot about the Hunter Collective aesthetic and how I decided what the space should look like. When you’re looking for potential locations, it’s so important that you really believe in those areas and spaces. So, with Hunter Collective, we always look for a really strong sense of natural light and a strong bond to the local area, including a variety of shops and cafes that add to the community vibe. The specific elements that are crucial to our spaces might go unnoticed by other people, but they’re incredibly important in helping shape our niche.

When you’re choosing your location, consider what you’re trying to create and achieve. Perhaps you’re building a studio at the bottom of your garden next to a beautiful apple tree or converting your garage that’s got accessible parking for your clients. Whatever the location, find a space that sparks something in you.

Be prepared to make sacrifices

Carving out a niche literally means that you won’t appeal to everybody. Not everyone will like what you’re

doing. You might think something is fantastic and that your clients are going to love it, but sometimes they won’t. You must be prepared to make decisions on how to handle this feedback. You can say ‘OK, you’ve got a point, I need to improve on this and grow from it’ and make small, manageable changes to improve your business, or you might say ‘OK, that client wasn’t right for my niche, they don’t see what I’m trying to create. They don’t bring anything to my business that’s of value to me and so I’m going to let that go.’

When you’re working with that niche mindset, you need the confidence to believe that if you lose certain clients, you’ll gain others who do understand your business and what you are trying to achieve. Believing in what you’re doing is key - if you don’t believe in it, no one else will.

“Carving out a niche literally means that you won’t appeal to everybody. Not everyone will like what you’re doing.”

Be flexible

An important point to make is that your business might require different things at different times. You could start out with one style of business model and then transition to another after a period of time. We all need to be able to grow, flex and stretch, and your clients need that as well. What’s lovely about creating a niche and following your passion is that it changes and evolves, allowing you to learn from your experience and move forward. It shows resilience and adaptability, and that’s one of the most important traits of any freelance business.

VAT: The Big Conversation

RUTH LUNDSTROM, CEO & Founder of The Freelance Suite app, addresses the ongoing VAT issue.

With the Spring Budget recently announced, there has been a lot of discussion over the past few months about VAT and how it’s affecting the industry. But does it really affect all of us? Considering that the industry has recently seen huge growth in the freelance sector, there has been a subsequent drop in VAT-registered hair businesses. So, what does this mean for freelancers?

For the past 10 years, VAT hasn’t been much of a concern for freelance hair stylists because the official threshold (the point at which you must register for VAT) was fairly high in comparison to what the average freelancer would turnover per year. Until two months ago, that threshold had been stagnant at £85,000 since 2017. In some relief to many freelancers, however, the

Spring Budget revealed the government’s decision to raise the threshold to £90,000.

Whilst this isn’t a big move, it’s a small win that certainly gives many freelancers some breathing room.

Let’s dive in deeper…

What is VAT?

VAT is a tax that is added to the price of your services, it is paid by the client. For example, if the price of your blonde package came to £300, as a VAT-registered stylist you’d then add VAT to create the final price. (Typically, this is 20%, but it can differ depending on which VAT scheme you’re eligible for.) This makes the end price £360, £60 of which is passed onto HMRC. On the standard VAT scheme, you can also claim back any VAT you have paid on goods and services that you’ve purchased to run your business – this includes the VAT on your colour, styling products or tools, for example.

It’s crucial to remember, however, that VAT is not money you have earned. It is a tax added that the client pays and you are to pass on.

You could, if you wanted to, absorb the VAT from your services, but this is something I would strongly advise against as a long-term plan. This would mean you start eating into your profit margins or, even worse, eating into your wages.

Why is VAT killing businesses? It’s not. Absorbing VAT into your profits is killing the business.

If you’ve ever seen me break down a price for any of my services, you will notice that I leave absolutely nothing out. I charge for every towel and every foil –even every coffee pod! This isn’t because I’m mean-spirited or tight, it’s because they are part of the costs it takes to run the business, and any costs need to be priced in. If it isn’t priced in, then it’s going to eat into your profit margins – it’s as simple as that.

Is it hard and scary to increase prices again? Yes. Is it necessary? Yes

Why you need to be aware of VAT in 2024

The VAT threshold from April 1st, 2024, has increased by £5000 from

“With running costs increasing, costs of service must increase too, thus bringing more people into that £90k+ turnover (especially if you’re an extensionist!).”

£85,000 to £90,000. The cost of goods has risen. Ultimately, this likely means you will start getting closer to hitting the VAT threshold (if you haven’t already). With this in mind, it’s super important that you keep an eye on your turnover and opt into the Flat Rate Scheme as soon as you hit that £90k mark, this will allow you to transition smoothly.

By not keeping an eye on your annual turnover, you could reach the end of the year and find out you not only have a tax bill to pay, but a VAT one too!

Don’t ignore your numbers in your business, get to know them. The more you know, the more likely you are to grow.

My prediction for the VAT cut...

With more of the big salons closing, the government is losing VAT revenue – this is something they will want to make up fast! Whilst I don’t think we will see a VAT cut this year, I’d be surprised if the next government didn’t move to lower the threshold. Until this happens, you have £90,000 of turnover before you have to register for it.

Even with the adjusted VAT threshold, there will be more and more freelancers that end up VAT registered purely because the costs of running their business have risen. With running costs increasing, costs of service must increase too, thus bringing more people into that £90k+ turnover (especially if you’re an extensionist!).

One last tip

Don’t be scared of VAT, be educated. Fear starts where education ends!

Vital Statistics

FHA Founder, SHEILA ABRAHAMS MBE, emphasises the importance of determining your pricing and tailoring your insurance.

Pricing and insurance considerations are vital aspects of running a successful freelance hairdressing business. Everywhere you look, from social media to magazines, the heat is on for ‘working smarter not harder.’ Ensuring adequate insurance coverage can be daunting, but with careful planning and guidance, freelance hairdressers can navigate these challenges effectively.

Setting prices:

Determining your pricing structure is a crucial step that reflects your skills, expertise and business needs. While it can be tempting to compare prices with competitors, setting rates based on your unique value proposition is essential. The Freelance Hairdressers Association (FHA) recommends a minimum hourly rate of £25. However, it’s important to also includeadditional factors such as product costs and overhead expenses.

For instance, when pricing services like a cut and blow-dry, it’s essential to factor in the time taken, the cost of products used AND the running costs of the business. A basic guideline on a cut and blow-drysuggests adding a minimum of £8 to cover product expenses. Similarly, for colour services, pricing should also reflect the time invested and the product costs involved – this will ensure that your hourly rate remains competitive while covering all expenses.

Regular training and skill enhancement should also be reflected in your pricing structure. Ultimately, clients value expertise, so adjusting prices to reflect your evolving skills can help you stay competitive in the market.

The FHA can help streamline the process of determining costs with our cost and profit calculator. This will ensure that your pricing remains fair and sustainable. Overall, the main thing to consider is setting a price list that’s relevant to you and your business.

Taking deposits:

In today’s dynamic business landscape, the option of taking deposits from clients for appointments is gaining traction among professional hairdressers, with the unfortunate reality of clients occasionally cancelling or failing to show up taking a huge toll on our industry each year. Taking deposits can help mitigate potential losses and protect the valuable time and resources invested in preparing for appointments. However, it’s crucial for hairdressers to communicate clearly with their clients regarding this policy. Establishing clear rules and regulations –either via your website, booking system, email or text message –is increasingly important for maintaining transparency and professionalism in client interactions.

Insurance coverage:

Insurance is a non-negotiable aspect of any freelance hairdressing business. Protecting yourself, your clients and your business assets is paramount in today’s dynamic market. The FHA offers specialised insurance policies tailored to the needs of freelance hairdressers, covering

various workspaces and including essential features like skin testing.

Understanding the nuances of insurance coverage is critical. Public liability insurance and treatment risk coverage are essential components that protect you in various scenarios. Third-party insurance alone may not provide adequate coverage, particularly concerning treatment risks specific to hairdressing services.

Choosing an insurer who understandsthe intricacies of your profession is vital. A comprehensive insurance policy not only safeguards your business but also ensures compliance with industry standards, such as manufacturer’s instructions for skin testing.

Incorporating insurance costs into your pricing structure is essential for maintaining financial stability and peace of mind. By investing in robust insurance coverage, freelance hairdressers can mitigate risks and focus on delivering exceptional services to their clients.

“The option of taking deposits from clients for appointments is gaining traction among professional hairdressers, with the unfortunate reality of clients occasionally cancelling or failing to show up taking a huge toll on our industry each year.”

Pricing and insurance are integral aspects of running a successful freelance hairdressing business. By establishing fair pricing structures and securing comprehensive insurance coverage, hairdressers can build a strong foundation for long-term success in the industry. The guidance and support provided by organisations like the FHA play a vital role in helping freelance hairdressers navigate these complexities with confidence and professionalism.

SHOP THE DROP!

A SPRINKLE OF SERENITY

Marking the brand’s 10th anniversary, Zen has released its new Serene Collection, featuring a retail-ready range of luxury Ponytails and Clip-In extensions made from 100% virgin Remy hair. With a choice between the Serene Ponytails for an instant chic high ponytail or the Serene Clip-Ins designed to lay flat against the head for enhanced volume, the whole collection comes in newly designed, recyclable packaging for safe storage of the hair.

www.rdr.link/HAT014

DOUBLE THE DEFENCE

Introducing the two latest additions to the JOICO Defy Damage line-up: IN A FLASH and KBOND20. A transformative rinse-out treatment designed to build bonds and fortify the hair structure in just seven seconds, IN A FLASH works to leave the hair silky smooth and more resilient against breakage. With a similar bond-building focus, KBOND20 is a brand-new masque treatment that rebuilds, strengthens and protects bonds in a single use, leaving the hair instantly detangled and richly hydrated.

www.rdr.link/HAT016

IMMENSELY INTENSE

With a bouncy, pliable texture to deliver a unique combination of grip and slip with a touchable, airbrushed finished, R+Co has launched its new Grasp Intense Hold Shaping Balm. This innovative shaping balm uses Rice Extract to tame frizz, improve manageability and strengthen hair, all delivering a touchable high hold without the crunch.

www.rdr.link/HAT013

IT TAKES TWO TO TANGO

STMNT Grooming Goods has launched its latest addition to the grooming industry –the Dual-Sided Hair & Beard Comb. Designed with both barbers and their clients in mind, this birchwood accessory boasts an ergonomic handle with a comfortable grip to offer precision and control for a diverse range of styling needs.

www.rdr.link/HAT015

METAL BE GONE!

L’Oréal Professionnel has launched its new Metal Detox Pre-Shampoo Treatment. Concentrated with 2% Glicofiller – an active that has a dual effect both on the surface and deeper into the hair’s cortex – this anti-porosity treatment works to prevent excess absorption of water to reduce breakage and provide instant nourishment and softness.

www.rdr.link/HAT017

HARDER, BETTER, FASTER, STRONGER

Redefining its Bond Repair collection with an all-in-one product to strengthen damaged hair after the first use, Alterna introduces the Restructuring Bond Repair Intensive Leave-In Treatment Masque. With a proprietary blend of Bond Enforcing Technology, Omegas, Amino Acids and Biomimetic Lipids, the treatment works to dramatically increase shine, provide smoothness, prevent breakage and reduce visible signs of hair damage for up to five washes.

www.rdr.link/HAT018

PRODUCTS FOR THE PEOPLE

With a focus on using exclusively clean ingredients and sustainable processes, Firsthand creates products for all genders, hair and skin types. Making its official UK debut, the brand’s hero products include the All-Purpose Pomade – to offer an all-day reliable hold with a simple application; Clay Pomade –to provide a firm yet flexible hold for voluminous styles; Texturizing Paste –to create texture and layers for messy and relaxed styles.

www.rdr.link/HAT020

THE PLACE FOR SPACE

Introducing the new Space Saving Power Station from WAHL. Designed exclusively for WAHL Professional 5V tools, the stand is completely customisable with six interchangeable charge inserts for trimmers, clippers and shavers. The USB-C port can also be used to charge your phone, tablet or mobile payment device.

www.rdr.link/HAT022

KEEP CALM AND CLEAN ON

Introducing Barbersonic, the latest innovation from BaByliss PRO. Featuring a combination of disinfectant solution, sonic vibrations and LED technology, this professional box cleans and fully disinfects barbering equipment in a quick 10-minute cycle. Specifically crafted with barbering tools in mind, the cycle uses vibrations to dislodge and release dirt, hair, grime and other impurities.

www.rdr.link/HAT019

ALL SYSTEMS GO!

Designed to resurrect lifeless hair that has been over-exposed to chemical damage, INNOluxe has launched its brand-new damage defence: FBR. With Hemisqualane and Pro-vitamin B5 to combat colour degradation and weakened strands, as well as Hydrolysed Soy and Vegetable Proteins to increase moisture retention, FBR has been crafted to ensure hair is primed and prepped for any colour.

www.rdr.link/HAT021

DAMAGE CONTROL

Luxury Italian haircare brand, Carlo Oliveri, has further enhanced its product portfolio with the launch of BONDAGE, a trio of products with an active complex designed to protect, strengthen and repair damaged hair.

its slightly alkaline pH designed to open up the cuticle layer, quickly penetrating the hair cortex and working on damaged bonds.

SECRET No. 2 and SECRET No. 3

The three new products in the sulphate and paraben-free BONDAGE range work together to help create stronger, longer-lasting bonds for shinier, healthier hair, thanks to the innovative use of naturally-derived amino acids and a rice-derived peptide, obtained from rice cultivated in Italy, providing a booster effect.

THE RANGE INCLUDES:

SECRET No. 1

A light spray that strengthens hair before chemical treatment. It helps to rebuild the broken disulphide bonds in damaged hair after just one five-minute in-salon treatment, with

A progressive treatment that can be used with all professional salon services or as a home treatment for clients. The light formulas are applied to clean, towel-dried hair with both helping to regenerate damaged hair after just one four-minute treatment.

The BONDAGE collection further enhances the existing Carlo Oliveri range, which contains Anti-aging Shampoo and Conditioner, Anti-aging Filler Mask, Anti-aging Curling Serum, Anti-aging Smoothing Serum and Anti-aging Leave-in Conditioner, all of which are made using resources and raw materials that are 100% sourced from Italy.

Carlo Oliveri unveils a new luxury haircare line for damaged hair.

“THANKS TO ITS LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT, THE HIGHLY INNOVATIVE

BONDAGE FORMULA HAS BEEN CREATED TO ENSURE IT IS ABSORBED DEEPLY INTO THE HAIR CUTICLE, HELPING TO RESTORE AND REVITALISE THE HAIR FROM THE INSIDE, WITH RESULTS CLEARLY VISIBLE FROM THE FIRST APPLICATION.”

CARLO OLIVERI, FOUNDER AND AWARD-WINNING SESSION STYLIST

THE BAFTAS

I got to work with one of my long-standing clients, AMY JACKSON, for this year’s BAFTA Awards. We created a modern take on a classic shape, with a little edge to complement Amy’s beautiful dress. It was the perfect red carpet look.

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER, GROOMER AND SALON OWNER, LUKE BENSON, SHARES HIS LATEST SESSION SNAPS WITH US –YOU CAN FIND LUKE’S DIARY HIGHLIGHTS HERE WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

THE BRITS

My best mate and client, ROMAN KEMP, hosted this year’s BRIT Awards alongside Maya Jama and Clara Amfo. I have worked on the BRITS many times before, but this year hit different seeing him be centre stage –I couldn’t be prouder of the job he did and to be there with him. It’s been a real journey and there’s going to be so much more to come from him…

Follow Luke Benson @lukebensoncreative and @lukebensonsalon

@lukebensonhair

KEUNE GLOBAL EDUCATION SHOOT

I had another two days in Amsterdam working on the new education shoot for 2024. This imagery will be used at the Keune Global Train the Trainer event in April to inspire the educators and show the amazing portfolio of products in the Keune range. I have to hold back the final images for now, but I will share them on my socials as soon as possible!

KEUNE EDUCATORS

I want to give a massive shoutout and say how proud I am of two of my staff: JOSEPH WIELGOMAS and BETHANY HUNT. They have been chosen to start their training and qualifications to become educators for Keune UK. I can’t wait to see their journey and development within the brand!

I recently went to Amsterdam to do a trend content shoot for Keune Global. Taking into account hair and fashion trends, we were creating looks for all the Keune social platforms to inspire the brand’s followers. I had three models and we created as many looks as we could in a day to help showcase the brand to the masses.

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

Visit

ERROL DOUGLAS

ATELIER SALON THE PENINSULA LONDON

First off, we knew the salon needed to have impeccable standards. Having been established in 1928, The Peninsula is a brand with an outstanding heritage that operates luxury properties in twelve major cities. The spa, which was completed in December of last year, is a haven of tranquillity and wellbeing –it was so important to us to honour that sense of serenity. When it came to the design, we had more or less a blank canvas; the hotel didn’t want sharp lines or anything that felt too dark, but other than that I had free reign.

Errol shows us around his smart new space in a top London hotspot.

WHERE

I wanted the space to have a traditional feel. Because of its setting, I took my inspiration from some of the most luxurious hotels in the world. I also spent time in the Peninsula, exploring the rooms, soaking up the mood it had created and going through all the textures, so I had plenty of reference points.

DID YOU USE AN INTERIOR DESIGNER?

In the past, I have always dealt with interior designers and worked with people who understand my style, but sticking to budget was absolutely key for this project. I received different quotes from five different interior design companies, and they all came back way over the odds – I think the prices were all inflated because of the prestigious Knightsbridge location! It just wasn’t feasible, so I thought ‘okay, I’m going to do it myself.’ One of my hobbies is interiors, and I was very clear in my vision from the start. So, I created a moodboard and I did it myself.

DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN?

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR?

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR.

It’s called the Atelier and its quite boudoir-esque in its vibe. Most salons tend to go for that lounge feel, but this is more like a bedroom than a living room. I know a lot of women that love a luxurious dressing room, and I feel this combines the best of both worlds. It’s like an ultra-luxurious suite – a bedroom combined with a big dressing room to provide somewhere you can get ready in style.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE ARE YOUR CLIENTS’ FIRST IMPRESSIONS WHEN THEY WALK IN?

When they walk in, I want clients to notice the atmospheric feel that touches all the senses. The lighting changes in different areas to create a relaxing mood and the colour palette is based on simple beige and green neutrals with rosewood and mahogany accents. We also have essential oils burning such as sandalwood, peppermint and geranium to provide a real sense of tranquillity. Most of all, I want clients to feel relaxed – it’s a luxurious spa that really makes you feel good.

WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF YOUR SALON DESIGN?

One of our challenges was needing to divide the area. We’ve got a pedicure area and then I’ve got the salon, so it took me ages to come up with a way to keep them separate. The answer was to put in a floating wall. Not only does this create a natural divide, it also throws back colour onto one side. The backwash area is very special too, the chair goes completely horizontal and the lights go down, so it feels completely private and very exclusive.

DO YOU HAVE ANY CURATED PIECES OR SPECIAL FEATURES IN THE SALON?

The little dressing tables at each styling station were bespoke and made specially for me. I’d seen a design I loved, based on a proper dressing table with an old-fashioned 50s Hollywood look, and got these based on that. There are only ever a maximum of two clients in at a time, so each space feels very exclusive. We also have some beautiful, original artefacts – the one I love in particular is a set of Regency cobalt brass bird candle holders.

HOW HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN?

While the overall aesthetic is very high-end, we are still mindful of making sustainable decisions. One of the most economical and eco-conscious things anyone opening a new salon can do is seek out good-quality pre-loved salon furniture, rather than just buying new, so I sourced much of the functional pieces through a pre-loved website, even the mirrors. You would never tell they weren’t brand new! We also use Easydry biodegradable towels.

WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE AND WHAT FEATURE OF IT DO YOU FIND MOST USEFUL?

We use Shortcuts. It’s good in that it sends out automated texts and alerts to clients. It helps us with monitoring patterns such as average client bills and rebooking rates. I love that it sends out reminders for client birthdays and little touches to show we never take our clients for granted – it remembers our clients’ favourite food and drinks too! Because it runs as an app, all of my stylists can use the software’s features on their own phones and laptops too.

DID YOUR PRODUCT BRAND OR COLOUR HOUSE INFLUENCE YOUR STYLE OF INTERIOR DESIGN?

The Atelier is a styling-only salon, so if clients request colour, we’ll take them by car to our

Motcomb Street salon. Our colour palette is neutral, so it wasn’t influenced by any brand, but it works excellently as a backdrop for all the different products we stock.

WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY?

For most of it, I used Cinderella. As I mentioned before, you can seek out really good quality, pre-loved items, which is a great option.

DO YOU HAVE A DRESS CODE OR UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM?

We don’t allow blue jeans or trainers – that’s mainly to ensure the client can distinguish us from them. Even though it might sound a bit old fashioned, I just think that we shouldn’t be too casual at work. As long as my team are dressed smartly, I’m happy – I also think this gives us a bit more status!

“One of my favourite places in the world at the moment is my home in Brighton, which is a converted 19th century art gallery. What makes it even more special is that I use it to run retreats for burnt-out salon owners. I spend two days with the most wonderful people laughing and crying, and it’s the most fulfilling thing I do.”

5minutes with SOPHIA HILTON

Sophia Hilton, Founder of Not Another Salon, and Global Ambassador of INNOluxe, talks burlesque, Brighton and writing her own book.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

Oh boy, here we go… I make my own costumes and I’m a burlesque performer. I write poetry for no-one but myself. I meditate, journal and do a lot of life strategy work. I ice-skate and rollerblade. I also get drunk with my mates, that’s very fun!

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION?

My life isn’t really about my latest collection. Although, I did recently

1

TO EAT: AT HOME

TO VISIT: MY SON’S SCHOOL AT PICK-UP TIME TO SEE HIS LITTLE FACE!

2 3

TO LISTEN: STEVEN BARTLETT’S PODCAST DIARY OF A CEO WITH MO GAWDAT ON HAPPINESS OR AI, BOTH ARE MIND-BLOWING.

4

TO WATCH: ANY HARD-HITTING SOCIAL DOCUMENTARY. I’M OBSESSED WITH PEOPLE AND HOW THEY LIVE.

5

TO READ: WELL IT’S CURRENTLY MORE WRITING FOR ME… I’M WRITING MY OWN BOOK.

6

TO WEAR: ANYTHING FROM A CHARITY SHOP, CAR BOOT SALE OR DEPOP. YOU DON’T NEED MONEY TO HAVE STYLE.

7

TO USE: INNOLUXE FBR (FU*KED BEYOND REPAIR). I SPRAY IT IN BEFORE MY BLEACH TO PROTECT IT!

8

TO LOOK UP TO: GARY VEE, SALLY BROOKS, SARAH SPEARS AND, ABOVE ALL, MY NAN.

manage to get my work on the front cover of lots of hairdressing magazines, which was pretty cool considering it’s not my focus. Instead, my focus for the last 10 years has been about helping the industry get through some of its biggest challenges.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS?

I did a social media tour across the UK a few years ago and did a section on how to remove people from your life that are not serving you and your goals. Six months later, I got a message from a woman saying thanks to my course she finally removed herself from her abusive husband. That is what success looks like to me.