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Experiencing Kuala Lipis by Train

Text by HADY ARMEEN Images by MUHAMMAD HASIF MOHD JELANI

Kuala Lipis, the former capital of Pahang state, is the third largest district after Jerantut and Rompin. Who would have believed that Kuala Lipis, an area rich in heritage and colonial vestiges, could also become a popular ecotourism destination?

There are several ways to get to Kuala Lipis, including by car. However, for a more exciting experience, travellers should take the train! Several rail services connect to the Kuala Lipis train station, which you can check here: https://www.ktmb.com.my/.

Top: The writer reading while relaxing in his berth on board the Ekspres Rakyat Timuran (ERT) train. Bottom: Jerantut railway station, which is also known as ‘Jungle Station’. Read on to find out about my itinerary going to Kuala Lipis by rail.

How to go to/from Kuala Lipis by train

From KL Sentral to Kuala Lipis

» We departed at night by taking the Electric Train Service (ETS) to Gemas, then we changed to the Ekspres Rakyat Timuran (ETR) train bound for Kuala Lipis. » The journey from KL Sentral to Gemas takes around two hours while Gemas to Kuala Lipis takes around five hours.

From Kuala Lipis to Gemas

» We departed from Kuala Lipis in the morning by taking the new DMU Shuttle Timuran from Kuala Lipis to Gemas. Besides Kuala Lipis, the train also stops at Bahau, Mentakab, Kuala Krau, and Jerantut along the way. » From Gemas, we boarded the ETS back to KL Sentral.

Clockwise from top,left: The mural painting near the Kuala Lipis train station depicting the postcode for Kuala Lipis; The stunning Gua Sisik Naga (Dragon Scale Cave) offers a unique caving experience; Some of the mouthwatering dishes that can be savoured at Azmi Tempoyak Steam Fish; Kayaking along Tanum River beginning from Kuala Temau Jetty.

DAY 1: KL SENTRAL TO GEMAS

09.35 PM: Depart to Gemas Station from KL Sentral

DAY 2: TRAVEL TO KUALA LIPIS

12.10 AM: Arrived at Gemas Station

01.18 AM: Depart to Kuala Lipis Station from Gemas Station using the Ekspress Rakyat Timuran train

06.11 AM: Arrival at Kuala Lipis station

10.30 AM: Depart for Gua Sisik Naga (Dragon Scale Cave)

10.42 AM: Explore Gua Sisik Naga (Dragon Scale Cave) Kuala Lipis has 23 caves, 10 of which are active and open to travellers who are interested in seeing the environment more closely. Among the caves that are open to tourists are Temalong, Tahi Bintang (also known as Panjang), and Fish. The cave I visited is called Naga Scale, which is so named because the structure of the cave resembles the scales of a dragon as a result from people during the ancient times scaled up the walls of the cave to collect guano (bat dung) as fertiliser. As time passed, the number of bats dwindled and the quantity of the fertiliser decreased, thus people no longer collect fertiliser from the cave. Gua Sisik Naga is now open for tourists who want to do leisure activities while appreciating its unique beauty. It only takes about 5 minutes to reach the entrance of the cave. It’s quite a challenging journey because there is a narrow path that travellers need to squeeze through but that struggle to witness the dragon scales-like cave interior is worth it.

01.15 PM: Lunch

02.33 PM: Depart to Kuala Temau Jetty 03.11 PM: Kayaking along Tanum River Kayaking in Kuala Lipis is done along Sungai Tanum. For travellers who prefer adventurous activities while admiring nature’s beauty, kayaking along Tanum river is a must-try in Kuala Lipis. Starting from Kuala Temau Jetty and ending at Chegar Perah Jetty, the four-kilometre trip opens travellers to an eye-opening experience, especially for me since it was my first time kayaking along a river. The water in the river should be clear, but because it had just poured during my visit, the river water was muddy, but it didn’t stop me from taking in the majesty of the tall trees and greenery that blank both sides of the river. For those who prefer longer and more challenging kayaking activity, that can explore the entire stretch of Tanum Valley by kayaking for up to six or seven hours, covering 18 kilometres.

04.15 PM: Arrived at the Chegar Perah jetty and left to check in at the hotel

06.30 PM: Check in at Hotel Star Well Just a 10-minute walk from Pahang Club House, the two-star Star Well Hotel Kuala Lipis is located near the Clove Flower Market. The hotel provides 36 rooms equipped with air conditioning, tea/coffee making facilities, and functioning toilets for the comfort of customers. It is also near to the Kuala Lipis train station, making it the best hotel for travellers who take the train.

08.40 PM: Dinner at Azmi Tempoyak Steam Fish The state of Pahang is synonymous with tempoyak (fermented durian, normally mixed with chilli when eaten with rice). Catfish cooked in tempoyak can be considered as one of Pahang’s iconic dishes. Tempoyak fans should stop for dinner at Azmi Ikan Stim Tempoyak. Among the dishes served that I tasted were catfish cooked in tempoyak gravy and baked pais (fish lathered in spices and then wrapped with banana leaves), which are the eatery’s best sellers.

10.00 PM: Rest

DAY 3: VISIT MUSEUM AND LEAVE FOR HOME

08.00 AM: Breakfast

DAY 3: VISIT MUSEUM AND LEAVE FOR HOME

08.00 AM: Breakfast

08.30 AM: Visit the Kuala Lipis Historical Heritage Museum Perhaps many people do not know there is a historical museum in Kuala Lipis, which is housed in a structure that was the birthplace of Malaysia’s eighth Prime Minister, Datuk Seri Mohd Najib bin Abdul Razak, located in Bukit Bius, Kuala Lipis. There are several galleries provided in this twostorey bungalow built in the 1920s, for instance the opening of Lipis as a settlement, the history of buildings, the history of British colonialism, the Malay Sultanate of Pahang, regional political figures, regional independence fighters, traditional Lipis food, and regional gold mining in Lipis. In addition to getting to know the history of Kuala Lipis, there is also an interesting spot to take photos because the buildings and carvings in the museum still retain classic Malay characteristics.

10.20 AM: Depart to Gemas Station from Kuala Lipis Station using the Timuran Shuttle Train (DMU)

03.00 PM: Arrive at Gemas station

03.20 PM: Return to KL Sentral using the Electric Train Service (ETS)

Gaya Travel Magazine expresses our heartfelt gratitude to Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad for making the writer’s trip to Kuala Lipis possible and smoothsailing.