FREE
Gateway
FALL 2013
to Canyon Country
JACKSON BRIDGES
The 75-year-old photographer still loves what he does and where he does it
ON CUE
DC’s serves barbecue and American classics
RIMVIEW TRAIL
Bike it, hike it, run it, walk it or geocache it
Toroweap/Tuweep Grand Canyon, Arizona
Cover photo / Jackson Bridges Page photographer Jackson Bridge calls this image “River of Gold” as the Colorado River is emblazoned by the low sun while the canyon walls at Toroweap in the Grand Canyon match the sky’s fiery red and pink hues. Check out more of Jackson’s work at www.jacksonbridges.com, and see our story about him on page 12.
Contents 4 7 8
First Frame Rimview Trail On the Mesa
DC’s Backyard BBQ and Grill Windy Mesa
10
Lake Safety
Lifesaving lists for houseboat vacations Make sure your pets are protected, too
12
Profile
Jackson Bridges
8
15 Lake Powell map 16 Canyon Country map 17 Page area map 20 Fishing Fly fishing on Lake Powell 22 Panguitch 24 Free & Easy The Chains
Horseshoe Bend U.S. 89 Scenic Overlook Hanging Gardens Scenic Viewpoint
30
Lasting Image
Gateway
12
to Canyon Country
635 Elm St., Page, AZ 928-645-2140
www.powwowtrading.com Native American Owned & Operated
is produced three times a year by the staff of the Lake Powell Chronicle, P.O. BOX 1716, Page, AZ 86040. Phone 928.645.8888 Fax 928.645.2209 Publisher Jeanie Wright Editor Michael Rinker
Office Manager Tammy Tichinel
Composing Marty Sisk
Writer
Advertising Ed Pease Mary Ann Chilton
Circulation Mike Nation
Blake Tilker
24
FIRST FRAME
by JUDy graham/photographer
This photo was taken from Hunt’s Mesa overlooking the iconic mittens of Monument Valley. To get there you must go with one of the licensed tour operators. Here’s the link to the tour company I went with: www.monumentvalley. com/Pages/english_tours.html. The drive requires some serious offroading by experienced guides/drivers. It got pretty hairy in a couple of places, but it made for an exciting adventure. We arrived at our destination well before sunset so we could catch the changing light and shadows, camped overnight and crawled from our tents to shoot sunrise. Our guides were also fantastic cooks on nothing but a campfire. Sitting around the dining table and later around the campfire, everyone shared stories and compared notes about their favorite places to do photography. This particular image was shot at 4:41 p.m. ISO-100, f/22, 1/13 sec. (I’m not sure why I used f/22 because I normally don’t use such a small aperture.) 4
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5
Rimview Trail
Bike, hike, run, walk or geocache to your heart’s content
Asian Cuisine Indian, Thai & Chinese
The Rodeway Inn® is located close to Powell Museum and Lake Powell National Golf Course. Recreational amenities include an outdoor pool. Those traveling on business have access to a business center at this hotel. Complimentary wireless Internet access is available in public areas. Self parking is complimentary. Additional property amenities include barbecue grills, laundry facilities, and a picnic area. Some accommodations have balconies or patios if available. Wireless Internet access is complimentary.
107 S. Lake Powell Blvd., Page, AZ • 928-645-2406
Inside Rodeway Inn at 107 S. Lake Powell Blvd. • 928-645-2406
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offers easy access to a variety of outdoor activities along the Colorado River, including water skiing, hiking, biking, fishing, golfing and raft trips. This Page, AZ hotel is also convenient to Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon.
Even though Page is only 16.6 square miles, the Rimview Trail packs a ton of The “official” trailhead is located off South Navajo Drive, fun into such a little package. Page was built on top of Manson Mesa’s Navajo Sandstone foundation, which just past Lakeview Elementary School. Many locals prefer is about 600 feet above Lake Powell. The Rimview Trail is a 12-mile loop that circumnavigates the lip of the mesa with a red, mars-like single-track. the entrance located at the southeast end of the airport. Navajo Sandstone was formed almost 200 million years ago when the grains of sand dunes began to fuse with minerals that hitched a ride from ground water, Dropping in here and heading counter clockwise is where and this natural bonding of the elements has turned the area into one of the you’ll find the longest stretch of uninterrupted views. most fantastic playgrounds on Earth. The Rimview Trail really caters to hungry mountain bikers looking for that next all-you-can-eat buffet of dirt. The trail is fast and flowy, but periodically snakes, but lizards are wound tight. They’ll dart out in front of you and panic. punctuated by rock gardens and sand traps that will take the smile right from Thick rabbits often crash through weeds as well, probably tipped off by the your face. There are a few short, punchy climbs that fizzle out before it really lizards. If you decide to take a fiver, make sure you’re not sitting on an anthill. starts to burn. Running the Rimview Trail is quite the commitment, but it comes with three The “official” trailhead is located off South Navajo Drive, just past Lakeview bailout options. The trail will cross Lake Powell Boulevard twice and Coppermine Elementary School. Many locals prefer the entrance located at the southeast end Road once. The trailhead off South Navajo Dr. is the quickest route to some of of the airport. Dropping in here and heading counter clockwise is where you’ll the best views if you’re exploring on foot. find the longest stretch of uninterrupted views. There are also plenty of geocaches along the Rimview Trail. A geocache It’s impossible to get lost along the trail due to all of the stunning landmarks is essentially a Tupperware treasure chest filled with worthless trinkets, and that surround the area such as Navajo Mountain, Tower Butte, Lake Powell, Glen somebody hid it so well that you’ll need a GPS unit or smart phone to find it. It’s Canyon Dam, Vermillion Cliffs, etc. However, your thoughts might get lost along like a free scavenger hunt in the desert, and kids love it. Watch where you put the way as the scenery takes over. Don’t let your mind get too far ahead because your hands—lets not add “geaocachers” to the list of those who get bitten by there are many points of exposure where the single-track skirts the edge of the rattlesnakes. rim and one mistake would be ugly; and this place is too pretty for that. Dogs are allowed on the Rimview Trail, but you’re going to need a leash to Page is the high desert of the southwest, coming in at around 4,100 feet. contain their excitement. There’s practically zero shade, so make sure to bring Few cacti flourish enough water for story by blake tilker/staff in this area. Smaller you and the dogs. prickly pear cacti Nothing ruins a will grow out of the good pair of boots fissures and broken faster than stepping soil of the Navajo in dog mess, so Sandstone. Mormon please pick up after Tea, which contains your little buddy. a natural stimulant, Technically, blooms in the area. horses are not Sacred Datura , allowed on the sometimes called Rimview Trail “Moon Flower” but piles of their because of its large existence are white flower that present. unwinds at night, Bring plenty pops up sporadically of water and drink along the trail. before you’re thirsty. Snakes, Wear sunscreen, including rattlers, even on a cloudy are definitely out day. Cell phone there, but this is service is pretty who gets bitten by good throughout a rattlesnake: male, the entire trail, 19-to-30-year-old so bring your males who have phone. But most consumed alcohol. importantly, bring You probably won’t your sense of come across any adventure.
Guests of the Comfort Inn & Suites will appreciate our many amenities including: • Free wireless high-speed Internet access • Business center • Heated indoor pool & Jacuzzi! • Complimentary hot breakfast • Fitness Room 6
890 Haul Road, Page, AZ • 928-645-6931
GATEWAY TO CANYON COUNTRY
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ON THE MESA
Whether you’re using Page as a base for exploring the Grand Circle, spending a weekend playing on Lake Powell, or just stopping by on your journey, make the most of your time here by checking out a couple cool things to do in the city atop Manson Mesa.
Cue it up DC’s Backyard BBQ and Grill is a family-owned-and-operated restaurant serving up southern-style barbecue in a cleverly designed atmosphere. The name says it all. Restaurant owner, Demond Crawford (DC), remodeled a former Sonic restaurant and turned it into his own place that feels like a barbecue with friends and family. “Our atmosphere is laid back. It’s just like you’re in our backyard,” Crawford said. The dining area’s walls reach about halfway to the ceiling, which is what gives DC’s Backyard BBQ and Grill that outdoor, backyard feel. On a recent evening, there were football games on two 50-inch televisions at each end of the bar and a wide variety of music playing in the background. However, the barbecue goes beyond what you would find at your neighbor’s backyard cookout. “I’ve been dabbling in barbecue for a long time. I love to cook in general. I didn’t think it was going to be the one to get me through, but apparently it is,” Crawford said. He and his dad use a secret family recipe for the rubs and seasonings for their smoked meats. “Pops starts getting everything in the smoker around 6 a.m. every day,” Crawford said. Pops tends to the smoker for 14 hours as the pork, brisket and ribs absorb the smoky flavor and texture that separates barbecue places apart from one another. They also smoke their sweet and baked potatoes, as well as prime rib. Crawford, 41, has worked in the restaurant industry for more than 25 years. “I went through every position you can think of in a restaurant. I started as a dishwasher and worked my
If you truly want to immerse yourself in the local culture of Page, the Windy Mesa is the one place where you can get an unadulterated take of life on the mesa. The bar features daily happy hours from open until noon, and once again from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m., where you can enjoy the coldest beer in town or try one of their creative drink specials for half price. When the sun goes down, the music comes out, whether it’s DJs and karaoke, or live music. Cory Johnston, entertainment manager for the Windy, said he does his best to bring in new and exciting acts to spice things up every now and again and is always looking for more. Like any respectable watering hole, there are the standard pool tables and a jukebox, which contribute to the downhome feeling of the place. One might say that being at the Windy Mesa is much like walking into the Toby Keith hit, “I Love This Bar.” There is a little bit of everything and something for everyone.
928-660-0752 way up the ranks. It was time to open my own place up,” he said. “I love this; it’s two-fold. I love cooking, but when someone comes in after a bad day, we are able to change their perception for a moment in time. When you come in, you probably feel like kickin’ your shoes off. And that’s what we want. We want you to feel like you’re home when you’re here.” Many people overlook the “Grill” part of DC’s Backyard BBQ and Grill. “We will always have the barbecue core,” Crawford said, but explained that his place offers dishes not found in most barbecue joints. “I just really like putting flavors together. I like to be creative and once we get a flavor, it sticks.” Some of DC’s unique menu
story and photo by blake tilker/staff
8
The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the Windy
items are chicken marsala, chicken cabernet, grilled salmon, rib eye steaks, pineapple coleslaw, and prime rib sliders with a horseradish mustard demiglaze. The restaurant has a host of American classics such as western bacon cheeseburgers and hot wings that cover the entire Scoville scale. Don’t take offense if your server tries to get you to change your mind about the ghost wings. They are made with ghost chilis, which is similar to chewing on fire. “I’m thinking about doing a ghost wing challenge,” Crawford said. “You have to eat 12 ghost wings in 8 minutes.” Most tourists, however, go for the steak, chicken and salmon. “The tourists have been good. We treat everybody like they’re coming
GATEWAY TO CANYON COUNTRY
into our house. Now we do cater to the locals, though. We realized that we could budget just for the locals and let the tourists be our gravy. That’s why we are open year-round,” he said. “The local support has been awesome. We appreciate it from the bottom of our hearts that we have had their support over the last three years.” According to Crawford, local police and firefighters frequent his restaurant regularly and that the health inspector eats at DC’s twice a week. DC’s Backyard BBQ and Grill has a happy hour with half-off appetizers Monday through Friday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. It’s located at 693 North Navajo Dr. Call 928-614-4805 for more information.
AUTUMN 2013
LAKE POWELL
LakePowellGroceries.com HOUSEBOAT SHOPPING AND DELIVERY SERVICE
Lake Powell’s Party Headquarters 928-645-3575 • 902 North Navajo Dr., Page, AZ
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High Desert Lodge Tom & Billie Streelman 888-987-6343 435-675-5846
PO Box 410155 605 S. Independence Drive Big Water, Utah 84741
WWW.High-Desert-Lodge.com Stay@high-desert-lodge.com AUTUMN 2013
GATEWAY TO CANYON COUNTRY
9
Lake safety Life-saving lists for houseboat vacations Of all the patients Page Hospital receives in the summer, 10 percent to 20 percent are water-related injuries.
Make sure your pets are protected, too by KIM SALERNO/contributor
by nicole reither/contributor
When Sue Schebler gets ready to set sail with her family and friends on their houseboat, she makes a list. It is part grocery list, with items you would expect to have inside the cupboards and refrigerator on a floating home away from home, gliding across the crystal blue water of Lake Powell. But her list also includes items for her houseboat first-aid kit and topics to include in this year’s safety meeting. She credits the list and meeting as the reason why no one from her houseboat has ever needed the services of the Emergency Department of Page Hospital. “Knock on wood, we have not had any serious injuries on the boat,” said Schebler, who has owned a houseboat for 12 years. “However, we make it a huge point to have the best first aid kits and a long safety talk before venturing out onto the lake.” Owning or renting a houseboat without a firstaid kit, or multiple first-aid kits, is poor planning and heightens risk factors. According to Bridget Schuldies, RN, emergency department senior manager at Page Hospital, at least one person needs to learn CPR before taking a houseboating trip. “First-aid training should be an essential part of the trip for all house boaters,” said Schuldies. “Without it, you run the risk of having someone get seriously injured and no one knowing what precautions to take.” Schuldies also explained that, along with knowing at least the basics of CPR before venturing onto Lake Powell, the most important thing during the trip is to make sure to always have a sober adult to monitor safety and handle emergencies if they arise. “This is especially important if there are children aboard,” she said. Out of all the patients Page Hospital receives on a monthly basis in the summer, 10 to 20 percent, between 50 and 100 patients, are water-related injuries. And there are always more water-related
injuries in the summer months and on holidays such as Memorial Day, Fourth of July and Labor Day, Schuldies said. Some of the most common water-related injuries include lacerations, crushed fingers and toes, head injuries, imbedded fish hooks and compression fractures of the spine when boaters jump wakes. According to Schuldies, in order to avoid or treat injuries and ailments, contents of first-aid kits should include: BASIC SUPPLIES Adhesive tape Antibiotic ointment Bandages, including a roll of elastic wrap (Ace, Coban, others) and bandages strips (Band-Aid, Curad, others) in assorted sizes Instant cold packs Cotton balls and cotton-tipped swabs Disposable latex or synthetic gloves, at least two pair Gauze pads and roller gauze in assorted sizes First-aid manual Petroleum jelly Plastic bags for the disposal of contaminated materials Safety pins in assorted sizes Scissors and tweezers Soap or instant hand sanitizer Thermometer Sterile eyewash MEDICATIONS Aloe Vera gel Anti-diarrhea medication Over-the-counter oral antihistamine, such as diphenhydramine (Benadryl, etc.) Aspirin and non-aspirin pain relievers Calamine lotion Over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream Personal medication
EMERGENCY ITEMS Emergency phone numbers Medical consent forms for each family member Medical history forms for each family member Small, waterproof flashlight and extra batteries Candles and matches Sunscreen Emergency space blanket Along with keeping an updated first-aid kit in multiple areas around the houseboat the Scheblers have always required a safety meeting before they leave the dock. Each guest is required to attend. The topics covered include: Knowing your lake “address” Never do anything alone Location of life jackets Knowing water depth Order of importance—safety of people before things Drinking plenty of water Practice fire safety plan Practice water safety plan No drinking and driving the boat, personal watercraft or wakeboards “For some people house boating is a first time experience and learning the safety regulations is an important aspect,” Schebler said. “But for long time house boaters like us, being reminded of boating safety is never an inconvenience. My husband and I have four young children and if we can help prevent any sort of injury before it happens than we will do anything in our power to accomplish that.” Nicole Reither is with Banner Health, a nonprofit hospital and healthcare system with 23 hospitals in seven states, including Page Hospital. Built in 1958, the hospital serves Northern Arizona with a range of medical services that include emergency care, surgery, medical imaging, obstetrics, heart care, and rehabilitation. For more information, visit www.BannerHealth.com/Page.
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Coldest Beer in Town
AUTUMN 2013
Before hitting the lake with your pet it’s important to plan ahead and always keep the best interests of your four-legged friend in mind. Boating with your pet can be a wonderful and bonding experience or a notso-pleasant one. It’s all a function of proper planning and preparation. Be sure to take these necessary provisions to ensure that your pet’s boat cruise is a happy and safe one. Identification tag. Make sure your pet has a collar with an identification tag. Include contact information, marina address and slip number. Familiarization with the boat. It is best to gradually introduce your pet to your boat and the water. Let your pet explore the boat while it is docked before going out on the water. Turn on the engine and let them get used to its sound, smell, and feel while the boat is docked. Then, take your pet out on small cruises and gradually build up to longer cruise. Safe and easy boat access. Provide a special ramp for your pet to get on and off the boat. This not only includes from the dock to the boat but also from the water to the boat. Pets weigh much more wet than dry and it can be very difficult to lift them back into your boat after a swim. Personal flotation device. A pet life jacket can also ensure safety while on the water. Not all pets can swim (including some dogs). Even if your pet is a good swimmer, getting tossed overboard can put any animal into a panic. In addition, your pet could suffer from exhaustion or hypothermia. Many pets also fall into the water from the dock or while trying to get from the dock to the boat. Having your pet equipped with a floatation device with a lifting handle makes retrieving your pet much easier and safer. Help your pet get used to the PFD by first practicing at home for short periods of time. Start by putting the PFD on your pet and let them walk around with it on. The next step is to AUTUMN 2013
let your pet swim with it on for a short period. It’s a new experience for your pet so it’s important for them to get used to it before the boat trip. Proper hydration and staying cool. Pets do not sweat, so keep an eye out for heavy panting or drool and a rapid heart beat. Protect pets from heat by providing some shade on the boat, providing plenty of water and keeping the deck cool to protect paw pads. Bring along a pet travel bowl and fresh water. It is critical to hydrate pets before they get into the water. Otherwise, they will drink the natural water and may get sick. Going potty. A big challenge of boating with your pet is making provisions so that they can go to the bathroom. Bringing along your cat’s litter box and securing it inside the cabin is a good solution for your feline friends. Dogs, however, are a bigger challenge. If your boat trip does not allow for regular land stops for your dog to do their business, then provisions must be made so that they can relieve themselves on the boat. A portable dog potty that simulates grass is an excellent solution. Health records. If your boating destination is a marina or place that you’re not familiar with, be sure to bring along a copy of vaccination and health records. Some places may require proof of immunization before letting pets explore on land. Call ahead. While most marinas and parks welcome pets, there are some that aren’t pet friendly. Be sure to call ahead before arriving on shore. Kim Salerno is president and founder of TripsWithPets.com, named “best pet travel site” by Consumer Reports. The website features a directory of pet friendly hotels and accommodations across the United States and Canada, as well as airline & car rental pet policies; pet friendly restaurants, beaches, and events; a user-friendly route search option; pet travel tips; pet travel supplies; and other pet travel resources.
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928.608.0707
928-645-0007 All located in the Dam Plaza, Lake Powell Blvd. & N. Navajo, Page, Arizona
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11
SIX DECADES A SHOOTER
I
A German couple armed with cameras worked their way over to where we were sitting. Jackson Bridges has never met a stranger. He shuffled around the area, showing the couple some of the sweet shots as though he were still guiding photography tours.
Page and on a mission to, well, I first met Jackson Bridges certainly didn’t know where. while doing some recon The tourist had a basic DSLR camera with a He immediately opened up for a story I was writing nice lens. In his German accent he asserted about the love affair he has with about the various artists photography. who display their art in that the lens is more important than the cam“I love digital. It’s wonderful. front of the Powell MuseOh, I don’t like that telephone um on Friday nights. The era body. Jackson pointed to the man’s heart pole? [making a gesture that magiwife and I walked our borand said to him, “This is what is important.” cians make when something vander collies down to the Art Walk, ishes]— Poof!” and I noticed an old man unfoldJackson shoots with Nikon ing a colorful tablecloth and drapD80 and D3200 bodies and an ing it over a card table he had just assortment of lenses. “You can get the D3200 from put up. He began pulling out photographs from under our chins. I landed the opportunity to interview Jackson Wal-Mart for $559,” he said almost as if it were too some old crates at his feet. He would stare at each photograph for a couple Bridges once the season began to slow down and good to be true. He got his first camera when he of seconds, almost as if he were taking the shot all unwind from a tightly wound summer. He made it was 13—a brownie box camera. “I built my own dark over again, before displaying the frozen images he clear he didn’t want to do an interview at my office. room.” “I’ll meet you at your office at 3 p.m. You’ll have Jackson embraces the rapid transition to digital has spent a lifetime finding. Photograph after phoand all it has to offer. “I was given Light Room [an tograph, he had it all: lightning walking through the to drive; I’ll explain later,” he said. He walked through the front door wearing Adobe imaging program] recently. It’s mind bogdesert during monsoon storms, waves of sandstone slot canyons few people have seen before, various a hoodie sweatshirt, blue jeans, high-end hiking gling. I’m older now and it’s harder on the brain. If I twists and turns of the Colorado River as it snakes shoes, two backpacks hanging from his shoulders, was younger, it would be a snap. “We are going to turn left up here, over that its way through Grand Canyon. You name it, he had and some rather hip sunglasses for a 75 year old. It was in the 90s that September day. hill.” a photograph of it. I grabbed my camera and Jackson announced to We turned onto a primitive dirt road and JackAfter some basic introductions and some small town small talk, Jackson said, “Let me see your cam- the rest of the office, “I don’t know where we are son said, “You got it, man. You’re not going to have a clearance problem, not if I can help it.” era.” I handed him my Canon Mark II and he told going, but we will bring back something.” We walked to my 2001 Toyota sedan and he We began plowing over weeds with yellow flowmy wife and I to climb over to the other side of a large flower bed blooming with sunflowers in front asked me it had four-wheel drive, doing his best to ers as they snapped against the belly of my car. It hide the sarcasm. sounded like a room full of photographers with of the museum. “I know a place we can probably do with this,” rapid-fire shutters. “Now squat down.” “I think this yellow stuff is rabbit bush. It makes Click. Click. He viewed the shots and smiled like he said referring to my car. “It’s not a high-clearance a child before turning the camera around and show- place. I’ll have to think about that. I tell you what, my wife’s nose run. Didn’t know you had a fourwheel drive car, did you? OK, now turn left at this ing us the tight headshot of my wife and I with a bed just go left. I think I can get you out there.” We drove over Glen Canyon Dam, departing fork. You know what Yogi says? If you come to a fork, of side-lit sunflowers glowing in the warm sunlight take it. There’s a cattle guard coming up. It’s filled in story and photos by blake tilker/staff on the sides, so it shouldn’t be a problem.”
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When we reached the cattle guard, there was a newer, blue SUV with California plates pulled off into the sand and facing the opposite direction that we were heading. “If he tells you you can’t make it, don’t believe him. I wouldn’t even talk to him. If you see a fairly new car with California or Nevada plates, you can bet it’s a tourist. “This is one of the secrets of the area. I used to come here everyday. I hardly see anyone up here. I see evidence that they were here, but I hardly see anybody up here. I’m gung-ho Page, Arizona. I love
I’m gung-ho Page, Arizona. I love this place. We have never regretted being here. I love it all. It’s awesome.” this place. We have never regretted being here. I love it all. It’s awesome.” Jackson and his wife moved to Page 18 years ago from northern California. Jackson spent most of those 18 years working as a wilderness photography guide for Overland Canyon Tours. Jackson’s photography is in many restaurants, banks, and city buildings around town. “Overland is the classiest business in town,” he opined. AUTUMN 2013
“Did you know two million tourists visit Page every year? How about 440,000 visits to Upper Antelope Canyon every year? How did that happen? Photography, my friend. That’s crazy! I know Antelope like the palm of my hand. Well, probably better than that because I don’t sit there studying my hand.” We got to a part of the road where Jackson’s concern about the means of transportation we were using to wander through the desert was obvious. “I’m going to show you how to do this. I hate this part.” We turned off onto a road that was more raw desert and sand than it was road. “Watch out, you don’t want to get too high. I always feel like we’re going to roll over here. Go ahead. Go ahead. Pull to the right, I mean left. Don’t put a wheel in that ditch. Let it come back. Good.” Jackson looked at me shaking his head and said, “I don’t believe I’m doing this in a sedan. I think I’m going to call you ‘Sandman.’ Let the engine do the work. Don’t stop! You’re doing it. Yes, piece of cake. We are out here in the wilderness where I work.” Jackson’s advice for novice photographers with point-and-shoot cameras—or what he calls PHD’s (Push Here Dummy)—is to take lots of pictures. “For people who are serious, take a course in composition—it’s everything in photography. Composition. That’s where it’s at. You have to have GATEWAY TO CANYON COUNTRY
something that is pleasing to the eye. “Look at that rock out there, isn’t it wild? We are going behind that rock and along that ridge. We’re almost there.” Jackson can’t drive due to a cataract surgery that left him seeing double at times. “How does it affect my photography? I can only get one eye in my viewfinder, so it doesn’t.” Jackson also battles Parkinson’s disease, but keeps it under control with drugs, and you wouldn’t know he had it if he didn’t tell you. “OK, park here.” I turned off the car and it shook like a wet dog that didn’t like water. I asked Jackson if he needed any help with his gear, which was easily 25 pounds. He declined. We were on top of a ridge that overlooked an Entrada sandstone canyon that went on for miles, getting narrower and narrower as it worked its way back to U.S. 89. We bushwhacked through the gravel towards the canyon’s edge. It was like walking on ball bearings. Jackson shuffled through the desert with two cameras hanging around his neck. This place talks to Jackson and he would stop frequently and say things like, “Wow, look at that” or “Man, isn’t that cool?” He’s been here hundreds see JACKSON BRIDGES on page 19 13
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Antelope Canyon
Antelope Island
Castle Rock Cut is CLOSED
Wahweap Bay
Highway 89 to Flagstaff is currently closed. See detour maps on pages 22 and 23.
Colorado River
Glen Canyon Dam
Hwy 89 to Kanab, Utah
Wahweap Marina
Navajo Canyon
Warm Creek Bay
West Canyon
Last Chance Bay
Rock Creek
Hole-InThe-Rock
Escalante River
San Juan River
Halls Creek Bay
Halls Crossing Marina
Bullfrog Marina
Bullfrog Bay
Utah Highway 276 to Monument Valley
Utah Highway 276 to Hanksville
Hite Marina
Colorado River
Antelope Point Marina
Utah Highway 98
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376 121 162 388 450 282 119 101 307 201 206 126 484 77 518 330 447 288 191 148 105 336 36 76
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122 238 256 339 368 410 363
214 242 230 133 192 246 239 257 140 203 125 151 162 365 161 288 163 122 61 226 172 435 239 200
285 149 151 204 262 262 174 154 130 121 137 74 278 272 232 191 126 238 61 141 91 376 153 115
291 35 24 340 320 144 32 50 267 145 301 67 216 225 419 148 269 256 226 141
342 101 107 299 352 219 97 115 205 92 261 21 299 182 401 105 217 339 172 91 88
238 250 260 580 304 224 253 250 503 381 520 303 408 413 380 336 394 368 435 376 376 324
341 85 126 383 414 246 88 53 273 161 303 88 318 110 461 36 284 410 239 153 115 67 303
88 236 324 115 67 303 74 62 309 43
ZION N.P., UT
ST. GEORGE, UT
SALT LAKE CITY, UT
PIPE SPRINGS, NM
PANGUITCH, UT
129 301 284 185 81 147 299 317 221 365 287 318 40 525 158 447 118
PAGE, AZ
159 280 278 171 145 196 277 295 176 247 169 196 111 407 89 330
NAVAJO, NM
MESQUITE, NV
MESA VERDE, N.P., CO
LAS VEGAS, NV
LAKE POWELL, HITE MARINA 168 248 223 210 116 123 245 263 252 401 321 278
NATURAL BRIDGES, NM
208 78 204 252 268 365 307 176 221 140 130 267 205 503 273 241
425 298 292 257 439 312 295 313 78 214
MONUMENT VALLEY, UT
322 176 313 79 263 168 445 101 295 317 257 154 50 115 250 53 59
399 161 155 347 409 275 158 176 208
KANAB, UT
419 292 302 181 282 277 304 322
GRAND CANYON S. RIM
288 32 78 365 354 199 21
GRAND CANYON N. RIM
FLAGSTAFF, AZ
249 62 145 285 331 350 179 5 294 327 120 56 175 551 351 230 352 175 178 551 230 351 352 178 365 354 199 21 181 282 277 304 347 409 275 158 257 439 312 295 268 331 197 64 210 116 123 245 404 524 356 186 221 122 285 427 388 450 282 119 171 145 196 277 185 81 147 299 133 192 246 239 204 262 262 174 340 320 144 32 299 352 219 97 580 304 224 253 353 414 246 88 298 372 204 93
CEDAR CITY, UT
CEDAR BREAKS N.P., UT
CAPITOL REEF, N.P., UT
CANYONLANDS, UT
278 270 56 56 331 294 350 327 179 120 5 56 32 78 292 302 161 155 298 292 68 77 248 223 189 230 431 393 121 162 280 278 301 284 242 230 149 151 35 24 101 107 250 260 85 126 90 84
CANYON DE CHELLY, NM
BRIANHEAD, UT
278 270 249 62 145 285 288 419 399 425 321 168 447 149 376 159 129 214 285 291 342 238 341 328
BRYCE CANYON N.P.,UT
ARCHES N.P., MOAB, UT ARCHES N.P., MOAB, UT BRIANHEAD, UT BRYCE CANYON N.P.,UT CANYON DE CHELLY NM CANYONLANDS, UT CAPITOL REEF N.P., UT CEDAR BREAKS N.P., UT CEDAR CITY, UT FLAGSTAFF, AZ GRAND CANYON N. RIM GRAND CANYON S. RIM KANAB, UT LAKE POWELL, HITE MARINA LAS VEGAS, NV MESA VERDE N.P., CO MESQUITE, NV MONUMENT VALLEY, UT NATURAL BRIDGES NM NAVAJO NM PAGE, AZ PANGUITCH, UT PIPE SPRINGS NM SALT LAKE CITY, UT ST. GEORGE, UT ZION N.P., UT
328 90 84 298 372 204 93 59 241 119 211 41 397 153 420 76 242 363 200 115 74 62 309 43
AUTUMN 2013
Experience the authentic atmosphere of Mexico and enjoy the best Margarita’s in town.
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JACKSON BRIDGES from page 13
of times. I noticed Jackson’s lips were chapped and figured it was due to all of the adventures he’s had under the relentless Arizona sun. However, when he took his first picture, I noticed that he sticks his tongue out and licks his lips like an excited kid opening a birthday present. For Jackson and many photographers alike, the captured image is only half of the calculus. The other half is the rush of knowing you are about to shoot something big—the rush that makes you stick your tongue out. Along the ridge there were massive, mushroom-shaped, sandstone hoodoos that have been growing for millions of years. Jackson would call out the f-stop he was using for each photograph before taking the shot. He knew exactly where to set the aperture in order to make the depthof-field focus on what he saw. He pointed to the smallest hoodoo of the bunch and said, “I call that one the ‘spaceship.’” “Lets just sit here, be still and see what happens,” he said. We sat on a sandstone shelf and waited for nature to have her way with us. We heard the sound of a large vehicle rolling over the crunching gravel. The blue SUV we came across at the beginning of our adventure pulled up and parked next to my tired car. Jackson looked at me and said, “They followed us.” It was the German couple. Jackson, our new German friends, and I played around with the warm light of a falling sun for a couple hours before calling it a day. My car took a deep breath and fired right up. Jackson noted the time and said, “Looks like we’ll make it back in time for ‘Dancing with the Stars.’ I love that show.” Example of Jackson’s work can be seen all over Page or on his website, www.jacksonbridges.com.
Natural History Museum Inside A Sandstone Cave Fluorescent Mineral Display Native American Artifacts Dinosaur Tracks Fossils Pre-Columbian Artifacts Unique Gifts And Rock Shop
Centrally located right in the middle of ten of America’s greatest scenic wonders, KANAB, UTAH makes the perfect base-camp for exploring, hiking, boating, photography, or back country adventure.
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5 1/2 miles north of Kanab, Utah, Hwy 89 Phone (435) 644-8525 Leave Message
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Guide was ‘born to fish’ by geri kilgariff/contributor
Bill McBurney gets people hooked on fly fishing, luring firsttime fly-casters onto Lake Powell, then teaching them to fish. By the end of the day, they’re reeling ‘em in. As master fishing guide at Ambassador Guides & Outfitters, McBurney says he’s the only guide on Lake Powell that offers fly fishing. He supports other angling methods as well, including bait casting, top water fishing, spin casting and trolling, but fly fishing makes up well over half of his business. In fly fishing, lightweight artificial flies are cast with a fly rod on a special, weighted line. Other forms of fishing depend on the weight of the bait or lure for casting distance. With fly fishing, it’s all in the line. “Fly fishing takes more physical effort,” McBurney said. “It’s much more challenging.” Many people think fly fishing means standing in hip waders in the middle of a river. But fly fishing can be done from a boat on a lake as
well. “Lake Powell is a forgiving body of water,” McBurney said. “It makes me look good.” Lake Powell can’t take all the credit. As a fishing guide, McBurney’s been looking good for more than three decades. In 1979, he was the first fishing guide licensed on the Colorado River near Lees Ferry, and the second guide licensed on Lake Powell. McBurney has guided fishing trips in Alaska, Costa Rica, Belize, New Mexico, Wyoming and Arizona. He worked on a $20 million fishrestoration project on Lake Havasu. He owned and operated a flyfishing shop at Lees Ferry, and for 10 years led all fishing programs for the Elderhostel in Page. He’s produced and co-produced more than 75 television shows, including his own, Ambassador Outdoors, on the Sportsman’s Channel in 2006. Raised in Florida and born to fish, McBurney admits he first
ON A TOUR OR ON YOUR OWN became a fishing guide by playing hookey from school. “I wouldn’t advocate that for anyone else,” he said. But becoming a professional fishing guide wasn’t McBurney’s plan. His original goal was to buy a ranch on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. In the process, he discovered Lees Ferry and became a frequent fisherman there. He was asked to lead some fishing trips.
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“It was something to do at first,” McBurney said. One day, writer Bob Hirsch asked McBurney to take him fishing. Hirsch wrote about the experience in an article for Arizona Highways magazine. McBurney’s phone didn’t stop ringing after that. The ranch never happened McBurney has been teaching people to fish ever since. The only see FISHING on page 23
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this lake amazes.
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AUTUMN 2013
PANGUITCH Panguitch, Utah, the largest and most historic town in the Bryce Canyon area, was named by the Paiute Indians after the “big fish” they caught in nearby Panguitch Lake (Big: Pan, Fish: Quitch). The red brick buildings seen throughout the city’s historic district are reminders of the pioneers who worked hard to establish their community. A group of pioneers from Parowan and Beaver first settled the valley on March 16, 1864. The first winter, being exceptionally cold, was hard for the settlers. Crops had failed, and people were starving. Seven brave men journeyed 40 miles away to Parowan to search for flour. The snow was so deep that the men had to abandon their oxen and wagons. They were able to reach Parowan by placing a quilt on top of the deep snow, walking to the end of the quilt, then placing another down, and retrieving the first. This became known as the Panguitch quilt walk. Settlers were forced to abandon
FLYING M RESTAURANT
the village and leave their crops during the Black Hawk War in May 1866. In 1871, Latter Day Saints leader Brigham Young ordered that Panguitch be resettled. As the settlement grew, a brick factory was built. The majority of the people from the community worked in the factory, loading horse-drawn wagons with wood, and iron-rich clay, firing a kiln with the wood, and making bricks. The brick workers were not paid with cash but with bricks. This enabled the workers and townspeople to build the large brick homes that are still standing today. Panguitch is filled with unique history and traditions. One such story is derived from an early sheriff, James W. Pace, who with his wife Hanna lived on the town’s main street. The story holds that when federal agents came to Panguitch hunting polygamists in the middle of the night, Hanna would light a lamp and set it in the window to signal all men in the neighborhood to go into hiding. During the first settlement of Panguitch between 1864 and 1867, members of the LDS Church paid tithes with produce and livestock that were kept on the lot on which the Pioneer Museum now stands. The museum was first constructed as the bishops’ storehouse and was dedicated in 1907. Later, it was used for church classrooms and a seminary. In 1964, it was leased to the Daughters of Utah Pioneers for a museum, where visitors today can enjoy the fine collection of pioneer artifacts. Whether one is escaping the summer heat, enjoying summer fishing or experiencing fall colors, Panguitch is the base for a good vacation getaway.
National Historic District
Panguitch, Utah
Start here ... go everywhere! Close to: • 5 National Parks • ATV Trails • Great lakes & streams for fishing • Brian Head Ski Resort • Outdoor Activities
FISHING from page 20
thing novices need is a fishing license and they’re ready to go. Everything needed to fish is provided, including rods, reels, lures, flies and bait. Serious anglers are repeat business as well. Some have been with McBurney from his early days at Lees Ferry. After years on the lake, the man knows where to find the fish. He prefers fishing barbless for easy release. About half the fish caught are thrown back. The rest are kept for eating. McBurney cleans and bags the fish, so they’re ready to cook and eat. Asked about the weirdest thing he’s ever caught, McBurney exclaimed, “My hat!” His lid had blown into the Colorado River at the 10-mile mark near Lees Ferry. While fishing at the 5-mile mark the next day, he felt something on his line and reeled it in. It was his hat. According to McBurney, stripers are the most popular fish caught on Lake Powell. “They’re a lot of fun to catch and good eating, too,” he says. Bass and walleye are good catches, too. Prime time for fishing is from March through June, and again from September until December. When the water temperature is between 60 and 72 degrees. Fish dive too deep for good fishing when water temperatures out of this comfort zone. “Of all the places I’ve been, there’s nothing like Lake Powell,” McBurney said. “It’s such a great place to be. The fish are the bonus.” More information about Ambassador Guides can be found on the web at ambassadorguides.com. Geri Kilgariff is a freelance writer whose past life was spent writing advertising in Phoenix. She currently spends much of her time in Page.
All services available. Over 300 Motel Rooms Friendly Home Town Service Antique and Western themed shopping
Events
•Rodeos •Quilt Walk Festival •Panguitch Valley Balloon Rally •Community Theatre •Fiddler Festival/ Taste of Panguitch
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For Information on Panguitch City and upcoming events visit our website
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23
free&easy
free&easy
Located in the middle of the Grand Circle, the city of Page offers easy access to some of the most spectacular natural wonders in the American Southwest.
FILE PHOTO
Some, such as Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon, Canyon X or Colorado River tours, require a fee and can take most of the day to complete. But the following attractions are free and can be visited in an hour or less.
The Chains A little-used access point just north of Glen Canyon Dam, the Chains is ideal for swimmers who don’t have a National Park Pass and don’t want to pay a fee for a quick dip in Lake Powell. Although it is part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, there are no fee stations along the gravel road that winds off U.S. 89 on the Page side of the dam. There is ample parking at the road’s end, and the trek to the water is a bit of a challenge for those not nimble of foot. The quality of swimming spots at the Chains depends largely on lake’s water level. Annual spring runoff from melting snow in the
mountains of Colorado and Utah usually begins around mid-May, so from then until late June the levels may rise daily. Water temperatures don’t peak until July or August, but swimmers can use their own judgment. Visitors to the Chains should realize, though, that they’re swimming over the deepest part of the lake, the area just upstream from the dam. There may be ledges, drop-offs and sudden changes in depth that could take inexperienced or unprepared swimmers by surprise. The Chains is a day-use area, and visitors are asked to leave at dusk.
Horseshoe Bend Horseshoe Bend Overlook Trail offers one of Page’s most famous views and has been the subject of countless photos and paintings. The Navajo Sandstone, formed more than 180 million years ago during the Jurassic Age, causes a picturesque 270-degree curve in the Colorado River called an “entrenched meander.” The river shimmers emerald green 1,100 feet below as it flows between the red, orange, blue and purple canyon walls. Water and wind have twisted the sandstone into bizarre shapes that catch the eye. At midday, shadows appear and disappear within moments, creating captivating dances between light and dark. Once hikers trek the three-quarters of a mile to the lookout point, the view is awe-inspiring and enormous.
The first clip is a steep ascent comprised of sand an inch or two deep. Lining the trail is native sagebrush, which is abundant. After getting over the first hill, the sand gives way to sandstone. This makes for an easier hike, although the journey as a whole can be easily made by anyone with a sturdy pair of shoes. Bring your camera, of course, but be aware it’s difficult to get the entire bend in a single frame unless you have a lens that can capture its breadth. If there are clouds to the west around sunset, Horseshoe Bend makes a beautiful foreground to Mother Nature’s color display. Visitors should exercise caution while peering over the edge of the overlook, as there are no guardrails. Winds in the area can gust up to 50 miles per hour and sandstone can easily give way under foot.
Photographer John Chapple won the coveted Hasselblad Owners Club Photographer of the Month title for this image of Horseshoe Bend, captured on a 50-megapixel Hasselblad. Check out more of his work at www.johnchapple.com.
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GATEWAY TO CANYON COUNTRY
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free&easy
U.S. 89 Scenic Overlook This destination doesn’t offer the hiking or exploring options of other nearby attractions, but visitors just looking for a place to relax and enjoy a splendid view of Lake Powell and the surrounding mesas will want to check it out. Take U.S. 89 north over Glen Canyon Bridge and past the Arizona Department of Transportation substation. Keep driving for about a mile, until you reach a dirtand-gravel road on the right. Follow the road for half a mile to a level parking area.
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There is a covered viewing area with benches for those who wish to avoid the sun; otherwise, the ground and open sky beckon. Hiking isn’t an option because the overlook is on a hill surrounded by steep inclines with no trails near. Enjoy soaking up the gorgeous and expansive view and maybe have a picnic while you’re there.
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Visit the heart of Arizona, and the soul of the Navajo Nation.
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Experience peace and harmony like you've never felt before inside Antelope Canyon, the most photographed slot canyon in the world.
Call 928.698.3384 or book online at www.navajotours.com Casual tours available 365 days a year. Photo tours available during peak lighting times each day. Located on Navajo land 3 miles outside Page, Arizona.
32 E. Center, Kanab, UT
Lake Powell
(Mail: 116 W. Kanab Creek Drive, Kanab, UT 84741)
Restaurant: 435-644-2488 Kammy: 435-616-2140 Fax: 435-644-8148 • Toll Free: 1-800-599-2488 catering@houstons.net Mickey: 435-644-2140 mickey@houstons.net
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Antelope Point Marina
Page
N22 B
98 89
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Upper Antelope Canyon
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Luxury cloaked in nature, with a touch of serenity.
Hanging Gardens One might not expect to find a beautiful lush garden in the middle of the desert but that’s exactly what you’ll find at the end of the Hanging Gardens trail. The well-marked trail leads to a sumptuous garden of beautiful green Maidenhair fern and a spectacular view of the serene red and purple mountains that tower over Lake Powell. The water shimmers in the distance and the Jurassic-age Navajo sandstone that protectively houses the garden also provides shade for hikers. The garden is secluded and peaceful. Truly a contradiction in its nature, this trail combines the lush colors of a healthy garden with the desolate expanse of the desert. The kaleidoscope of bright colors will leave vivid images carved into your memory for days to come. The horizon seeps out over the lake, which looks close enough
to touch. The semi-soft feel of the sandstone bends and gives to every footstep and provides comfort when you need to rest. This one-mile round trip trail is easy to navigate and won’t take more than an hour. This is a great sunrise or sunset hike, especially during hot summer months. Or, this could be an excellent destination hike if you’re looking for a quiet place to have a picnic. This trail could turn into much more if you have a few hours to explore. Consider having breakfast at sunrise and then exploring the area for a bit. If you’re adventurous, you could easily turn this into a more strenuous hike by climbing to the top of the sandstone hills before heading back to the car. Take U.S. 89 past Page. Just north of the city (before Glen Canyon Dam)
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sign and small cable fence. Park your car off to the right, as opposed to following the road to the left. Walk through the opening in the fence and begin to follow the trail through a wash.
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Scenic Viewpoint This spot offers a spectacular view of Glen Canyon Dam and Colorado River gorge. Take Scenic View Road from U.S. 89 near the Denny’s restaurant to a side road — identified by a sign — that leads to the viewpoint and a gravel parking lot. For the best views, follow a path down to the lookout point. The path has handrails, and steps are carved intermittently into the sandstone to make for easier walking. The viewpoint offers a couple of benches and a partially enclosed viewing area that protects from sun and rain. During and after rainstorms, the
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cliffs above the river come alive with waterfalls, and there’s almost always a boat or two trolling the river below. Photographers in search of even better shots can climb past the brick barrier that separates the viewing area from the cliff ledges, but do so at your own risk, especially during wet weather. There are relatively safe perches from which to snap breathtaking shots of the dam or the gorge, but getting there requires sure-footedness and some climbing. Scenic Viewpoint makes for an invigorating little side trip that can be done in less than an hour.
Antelope Point Marina, Lake Powell, AZ Callville Bay Marina, Lake Mead, NV Cottonwood Cove Marina, Lake Mohave, NV 800.255.5561
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there is a turnoff on the right with a brown trailhead sign depicting two hikers. Turn here and follow the gravel road a short distance (about 500 yards). The trail begins where the road forks to the left. There is a small
Elks Lodge, 806 Aqua Ave., Page, Arizona
facebook.com/travelforeverresorts Forever Resorts is an authorized Concessioner of the USDA Forest Service, the National Park Service and the Department of Interior to serve the public in the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. Antelope Point Marina is owned and operated by Antelope Point Holdings L.L.C., an authorized Concessioner of the National Park Service, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.
Vendor Contact info: (928) 645-5799 or (928) 353-2243
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by MICHAEL RINKER/Staff
I’m not really a photographer; I just take pictures where I find them. And that’s the beauty—literally and figuratively—of Zion National Park. There are cool photos to be had everywhere at any time.
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P.O. Box 940 • 626 N. Navajo Drive, Page,Arizona 86040 Toll Free: 1-800-644-3008 • Phone: 928-645-3008 • Fax: 928-645-9256 blairs@blairstradingpost.com • www.blairstradingpost.com
We’d taken some visiting friends to a few of the park’s notable destinations. As the daylight faded we were driving toward home along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive near the Zion Lodge. We happened upon a herd of deer feeding a bit off the road and jumped out for some good photos of them. We got back in the car, drove maybe three minutes and saw this waterfall formed by the melting snow on top of the mountain. I snapped this shot from the side of the road with my old Nikon digital camera on auto. Zion’s beauty can endure even a not-so-great photographer. 30
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Discover The Best A D V E N T U R E A N D VA L U E I N T H E W E S T Take a break from your life and raft the Colorado River in Glen Canyon. Experience the beautiful blue-green waters and the majestic walls and discover the way to the past with Colorado River Discovery. We offer half-day and full-day motorized raft tours along with our all-day oar powered trips. Rafting a day on the Colorado River is the perfect escape. Call or book online today! Colorado River Discovery is an authorized concessioner of the National Park Service, Glen Canyon AUTUMN 2013 National Recreation Area.
Horse Shoe Bend - Another of Mother Nature's little tricks
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