DRIFT Epicure 2023

Culinary

ARTISTRY

Produce, provenance and panache; a feast of the senses for the discerning gourmand

Drift /drift/ noun

1. the act of driving something along

2. the flow or the velocity of the current of a river or ocean stream

verb

1. to become driven or carried along, as by a current of water, wind, or air

2. to move or float smoothly and effortlessly

THE PINNACLE OF LUXURY LIFESTYLE IN CORNWALL

On the cover

The mouthwatering work of art that is courgette, fresh curds and basil from the talented Adam Handling of Ugly Butterfly. Photographed by John Hersey, as featured from page 20. uglybutterfly.co.uk johnherseystudio.com

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Foreword

Cornwall is a veritable feast for the senses. Eyes are treated to land and seascapes that cause one to stop and stare. Olfactory senses are hit with the smell of salt air blown in from the ocean or the earthy smell of well-trodden paths. When it comes to tastebuds, these are treated to flavours from the kitchens of venerable chefs across the Duchy. Selecting from a rich and diverse natural larder that sets Cornwall apart, menus are as diverse as they are innovative. However, what joins them with an epicurean thread is a move towards the use of seasonal, local produce. At Trevaskis Farm (64), farm-to-fork eating is not the casual misnomer that is oft bandied about in lesser restaurant circles. Raising their own animals and growing a multitude of crops, which make their way to the kitchens by foot rather than road, is true testimony to the integrity of this gastronomic

establishment. The Ugly Butterfly (20), while without its own arable acreage, does forage on the foreshore and adopts a zero-waste approach to ingredients, using pickling, fermenting and freezing methods to ensure nothing is wasted. Similarly, a sustainable approach is taken by Tom Hannon at The Rising Sun (38) in his use of produce. Turning to micro-seasonality, ingredients rise and fall like the tide. No epicurean odyssey would be worth its salt without a drink to hand. Elemental (32) distils small-batch premium gin using spring water from Cornish moors, while Keltek Brewery (90) is fiercely proud of its Cornish roots with four of its own pubs, making it only the second brewery in Cornwall to own its own estate of public houses. Whatever sates your appetite or quenches a thirst, allow DRIFT EPICURE to be your culinary concierge.

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At a glance

70 A DELECTABLE HAVEN

In the form of Hooked on the Rocks

76 A FLAIR FOR FLAVOUR

Pan-Asian panache at Bango Kitchen

78 BALANCE, RESTORED

Feeding mind, body and soul

84 ROOTED IN THE LAND

St Michaels Resort’s food love story

90 BREWED FROM CELTIC ROOTS

The south west’s fastest growing brewery

96 A PERFECT SIMPLICITY

From Caines, in support of local producers

102 A WORLD AWAY

In the calming oasis that is The Bolenna

108 AT ONE WITH THE TIDE

A restaurant with Cornwall at its heart

114 WITHIN THESE WALLS

A fine-dining experience at Bodmin Jail Hotel

120 A FEAST OVER FIRE

The New Inn’s celebrated Cornish recipe

122 EVENTIDE

A final word from Connor Blades

the IgnitedOCEAN by

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Combining his deep respect for classic cookery with a passion and understanding of seafood, Nathan Outlaw is the first to admit that quality produce is paramount to his success. The way in which the various seafood on the menus is caught, landed, handled, and delivered to the restaurants, bears huge importance in an Outlaw’s kitchen, and the dishes themselves are created to let the star of the show shine; the seafood.

Nathan grew up in Maidstone, Kent, and after helping out with breakfast services in his dad’s kitchens from a young age, it seemed only natural for him to venture in that direction. Having worked in industrial kitchens on evenings and weekends since the age of 14, he then attended Thanet Catering College in his late

teens. His career as a chef began in London, where he worked under Peter Kromberg at the five-star InterContinental Hotel on Park Lane. Nathan honed his craft in the big city, under the tutelage of the culinary greats of their time, including Gary Rhodes and Eric Chavot. The draw of the coast, however, was strong and so Nathan set his sights on Cornwall; a place that held fond memories of childhood holidays.

Nathan’s love for fish and seafood cookery was sparked during two years at Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant in Padstow: “I strongly believe that chefs should play to the strengths of their surroundings and being in north Cornwall means that we have access to the freshest and most delectable seafood that inhabit our coast. Over the years, I would say I have built up a confidence in my cooking

Nathan Outlaw

Nathan Outlaw’s love for seafood and hospitality has created an immersive experience in which geniality is as much at the fore as gastronomy.

which allows me to know when enough is enough, and to really rely on the ingredients and execution of cooking to lead the way. When it comes to seafood, freshness, quality, and simplicity are so important. However, you must never forget that dishes should first and foremost be tasty, and the experience enjoyable – leaving you wanting more.”

For Nathan, the producers and suppliers hold a crucial position in the day-to-day running of the restaurants: “The fishermen, with whom we maintain special relationships, are particularly integral, and we rely on their consistent delivery of high-quality seafood. We place a strong emphasis on sustainability, with daily inshore day boats and local, seasonal produce dictating what’s on the menu. This approach minimises waste and promotes the preservation of marine life.”

Both eponymous restaurants exclusively serve seafood tasting menus, each with distinctive dishes and unique scenery which gives them their own character and identity, while both focus on great hospitality. New Road, which sits at the top of Port Isaac overlooking the bay, conveys the nuances in seafood cookery. Combining unique culinary techniques with traditional methods, the

tasting menus present an array of deceptively intricate and perfectly executed seafood dishes. Diners are recommended to set aside three hours in which to enjoy the experience, with each dish devoted to exhibiting seafood in distinct and memorable ways.

Fish Kitchen, on the other hand, is sometimes referred to as New Road’s naughty little sister! Home to this tiny restaurant, with just 20 covers, is a renovated 15th century fisherman’s cottage, which looks directly out across Port Isaac harbour. Its quirky nature threads throughout the building and into the kitchen, with head chef Tim Barnes at the helm. The menu is ever-changing, dictated by the daily catch landed by the inshore day boats. Taking inspiration from around the world, Fish Kitchen menus often incorporate a range of spices and complex flavour combinations.

Hospitality in all its forms now defines Outlaw’s, as Nathan explains: “Accommodation has been a huge leap forward in the Outlaw’s experience. Firstclass hospitality has always been something we’re proud to deliver, so we’re excited to be able extend our offering and allow guests somewhere to continue their foodie journey. For example, our Guest House, which opened

Seafood takes centre stage

in May 2022, hosts an ‘Ultimate Foodie Getaway’; a dinner, bed and breakfast package where guests can stay and dine at both New Road and Fish Kitchen. It’s come full circle... from buttering toast in my dad’s kitchens at eight years old, you’ll often find me running breakfast service over at our Guest House!’

With just nine bedrooms, the Guest House is an exclusive retreat, and with its location at the top of Port Isaac, boasts idyllic vistas of the ocean. “When thinking about what the Guest House would look like, we wanted it to be a haven for all-year-round getaways to the Cornish coast. As with all of our ventures, hospitality takes a certain spotlight and we aim for it to feel like a home from home... with a lot of food! The feedback so far has been excellent, so we’re excited to see what 2023 brings,” adds Nathan.

This year also sees the opening of the first of Outlaw’s Coastal Retreats, which consist of two self-catering properties; Kittiwake Cottage, which sleeps up to six, and Kittiwake Annexe, a one-bedroom pied-à-terre

with kitchenette. “The property was in dire need of repair”, explains Nathan, “and being a Grade-II listed building, the renovations have been extensive. It got to a point where I was dreading calls from the builders, but the team from Luke and Dingle Ltd have worked so hard and seeing the final results has made it all worth it.”

Whilst Cornwall’s seafood larder takes centre stage on the plate, it’s the team at Outlaw’s which is integral to the day-to-day operation. Over 70% of those employed, have been working with Nathan for eight years or more, many for up to 15. The result is a team built around a common appreciation for customer service, offering guests an authentic, warm welcome and genuine connection to Outlaw’s world. In answer to what the next steps are for Outlaw’s, Nathan concludes: “To continue doing what we do best; serving the finest seafood the UK has to offer while giving genuine hospitality, so guests can relax and enjoy every moment they are with us.”

www.outlaws.co.uk

Cornish breakfast the Outlaw’s way

SEASONS the Celebtrating

WORDS BY DAN WARDEN

Jude Kereama, owner of Porthleven’s Kota and Kota Kai, has earned a reputation around the UK for his approach to cuisine. Multiple appearances on the BBC’s Great British Menu are testament to his accomplishment as a culinary craftsman, and if you ask him what makes great food, he’ll tell you that what appears on the plate is only as good as the ingredients it’s made from. For this reason, he and his team of chefs place great importance on the quality of the ingredients they use. They value provenance and seasonality above all, and as we go to press on this edition of DRIFT Epicure, they are very much enjoying the gifts of spring. “Asparagus, three-cornered leeks, peas, beans, morels,” says Jude, “these are just some of the wonderful ingredients gracing our menus at the moment. It’s always exciting when spring comes around and the gardens start to flourish with the warmth.

“In fact, seasonality is the biggest influence on our menus,” he continues, “and we make sure that we utilise the freshest possible produce as often as we can. We are so lucky here in Cornwall to have such a variety of incredible ingredients, and we certainly have the best seafood, butchers and farms anywhere in the UK!”

As we look to the season ahead, this dedication to drawing on Cornwall’s natural larder seems unlikely to change. Over at Kota, new Head Chef Ross Sloan is bringing a real buzz to the team and restaurant atmosphere, and his menus are triumphantly wowing each and every guest that comes through the door with their creative use of Cornish food.

Meanwhile, over at Kota Kai, Head Chef Marcus Houghton adopts a similar approach, delivering the Kai menu to contented guests as they relax and enjoy the harbour view.

Across the two restaurants, they are also gearing up for a busy season. “After the long winter,” says Jude, “all of us, in both restaurants, are very excited to see the sunshine.” Which is a good point. Not only is the sunshine great for our moods – an uplifting sight in the sky after a long and dreary winter – it brings with it the vital tourism that businesses in the hospitality sector rely on. “Here in Porthleven we are pretty lucky,” says Jude. “With all the great restaurants and pubs, we seem to maintain more of a year-round season, but when the main season comes, it’s pretty non-stop, which is crucial for so many other businesses like ours in Cornwall.”

With this being our food and drink special edition, over the page you’ll find two mouthwatering recipes – giving you a flavour for Jude’s approach to food, and hopefully whetting your appetite to see what’s on the Kota and Kai menus next time you’re in Porthleven. “The two dishes I have chosen to share are just old favourites of mine,” he says. “I always tend to have a scallop dish on in Kota, and this one is just a tasty recipe! The apple terrine, meanwhile, I love because it’s so decadent. It’s the ultimate apple dessert, which is saying something, because I’m a sucker for apple desserts!”

kotarestaurant.co.uk

kotakai.co.uk

Seasonality, provenance and a passion for flavour continue to drive Jude Kereama and the teams of his two Porthleven restaurants.

Scallops with creamed leeks and XO sauce

SERVES 1

INGREDIENTS:

2 hand dived scallops

125ml double cream

2 leeks

2 baby leeks

XO sauce

Leek oil

Crispy shallots

Coriander cress to garnish

Chopped baby leeks

1 scallop shell per person for serving in

METHOD

For the creamed leeks

2 leeks thinly sliced quickly blanched in hot salted water

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Salt and pepper

125ml double cream

For the crispy shallots

1 banana shallot thinly sliced on a mandolin

300ml vegetable oil

For the leek oil

250ml vegetable oil

150g leek tops

For the XO sauce: We make our own XO sauce at Kota, but for this recipe I would suggest you buy one on Amazon or from an Asian grocer. The one we make at Kota takes a long time and is made up of all the scallop roes that we save from shucking the scallops. They are dehydrated to intensify their flavour in our dehydrators. Also, our ham is home-cured and smoked, which is another long job that requires special equipment. A small bottle of Heng’s

Crispy XO Scallop Chilli sauce will do the trick. It is super delicious and will end up on everything that you serve. Obviously not as tasty as mine, but a great substitute!

For the creamed leeks:

Thinly slice the leeks and quickly blanch in hot salted water. Warm the butter in a pan, add the leeks and cook for two minutes. Add the cream and reduce the heat. Cook slowly for 10 minutes until tender, and season to taste.

Warm the butter in a pan and add the leeks and cook for 2 minutes. Add the cream and reduce the heat. Cook slowly for 10 minutes until tender and season.

For the leek oil: Place the oil and leeks in a pot, warm to 70 degrees and hold the temperature for 3 minutes. Blend on high until smooth and then pour into a very fine strainer and let it drip into a bowl in the fridge. Don’t force the mix through a strainer as the oil will become cloudy.

For the crispy shallots: Add the shallots and oil to a pot and warm until it is starting to bubble. Turn the heat down and the cook shallots until golden brown. Leave on some paper towel to drain.

For the scallops: Shuck, trim and clean the scallops. Sear them until just cooked, then slice in half.

To serve:

Spoon the creamed leeks into the bottom of the scallop shells and top with the scallops. Dress with XO sauce and a drizzle of leek oil. Scatter the baby leeks over next, followed by the crispy shallots and a few sprigs of coriander.

SERVES 12

INGREDIENTS:

For the apple sorbet:

5 Granny Smith apples

5g ascorbic acid

1½ lemons juiced

700g sugar

700g water

For the caramel powder:

300g sugar

60g glucose syrup

125g diced unsalted butter

Cornish sea salt

An apple a day

For the apple terrine:

10 Pink Lady apples

1 lemon

Bowl of water

For the puff pastry base:

300g puff pastry, pre rolled

100g icing sugar

For the apple crisps:

2 Granny Smith apples

100g sugar

200g water

25g lemon juice

METHOD

For the apple sorbet and caramel powder Bring the sugar, glucose and water to a rapid boil and reduce by a third. Leave to cool. Add the liquid, lemon juice, ascorbic acid and apples to a blender and blitz. Pass through a fine strainer and freeze. For the caramel powder, heat sugar and glucose into a dark caramel and then whisk in the butter. Season with the salt. Allow to set, then blitz into a powder.

For the apple terrine: Make some acidulated water with lemon and water. Put in a large bowl. Peel the apples and slice 1mm thick into the bowl. Take a rectangular 30x20cm mould and place on top of parchment paper on a baking sheet. Spread a layer of caramel powder and then a layer of sliced apple. Repeat until all the apples are used up. Bake on 190°c for 1hour 10mins. Check the terrine and pour off any excess liquid, reserving for glazing. Bake for 20 more minutes or until just cooked. Take out of the oven and cool for a few minutes, then place on top of the pastry sheet.

For the puff pastry base:

Roll out pastry on parchment paper as thin as you can. Dust with icing sugar to stop sticking. Dust a little extra when it is completely rolled out. You are aiming for a pastry sheet about 30cm x 20cm. Fork the pastry all over. Put between two baking sheets and bake at 200°c until golden. Place the pastry on top of the apple terrine and

For the apple crumble mix:

1 vanilla pod, scraped

100g ground almonds

100g spray dried apple powder

½tsp cinnamon powder

120g feuilletine

40g brown butter

For the Calvados apple

sauce:

9 tablespoons caramel powder

9 tablespoons apple juice

3 tablespoons Calvados

Cornish sea salt to season

For the custard:

½ vanilla pod

600ml whole milk

4 egg yolks

2 tablespoons caster sugar

1 tablespoon corn flour

flip over so the pastry is on the bottom. Glaze the top of the terrine with the apple terrine juices.

For the apple crisps

Warm the liquids up. Slice apples 1mm thick and dip in the sugar syrup. Lay on parchment sheet and dehydrate on 50°c overnight.

For the apple crumble mix: Toast almonds in the oven on 150°c, stir and cook until golden. Add all the dry mix together and bind with brown butter.

For the Calvados apple sauce and custard: Make a caramel with water and sugar. When dark, add apple juice and bring to the boil. Whisk in the apple juice and Calvados. Season with sea salt.

For the custard, split the vanilla pod, scrape the seeds and add to a pan with milk. Warm on a medium heat and bring to a boil. Whisk the yolks, sugar, and corn flour together and stir the milk in. Warm on a medium heat and stir until custard texture.

To serve:

Warm the terrine, then slice into portions. Spoon Calvados sauce over the terrine. Spoon crumble mix beside the terrine. Place a scoop of apple sorbet on the crumb. Garnish with apple crisps, sorrel and serve custard in a jug.

Flightof

FANCY

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING | IMAGES BY JOHN HERSEY

Chef Adam Handling takes an approach to food that you may not associate with high-end dining. Travelling across Japan, his eyes were opened by their zero-waste ethos and each location in his eponymous restaurant group, follows this passion for sustainability. The Ugly Butterfly, situated in an elevated position on the Carbis Bay Estate, is Adam’s Cornish restaurant; but why the name when everything about it, including the view, is so beautiful? It’s ironic; the point being that both food waste and butterflies are beautiful. There is no such thing as an ugly butterfly, in the same way that – with skilled people – there is no such thing as food waste.

The restaurant and bar were launched with the vision of utilising every part of the ingredient, locally-foraged where possible, to create incredible dishes and cocktails. Think sustainable, local, luxury, offering British food inspired by Cornwall and operating as close to zero-waste as possible. Everything is designed to be full circle – anything unused or kitchen offcuts are utilised in the bar, and vice versa. A multitude of techniques are adopted to preserve ingredients such as pickling, fermenting, and freezing, ensuring each is used in its entirety where possible. The team’s innovative practices in Cornwall have evolved extensively since opening. They are now able to get 16 different ingredients

A sustainable restaurant and bar without compromise proves that zero-waste can be luxurious too.

from one lemon, using the flowers, leaves, seeds, zest… everything. The restaurant and bar also operate with full transparency, showcasing many of their ingredients in a ‘flavour gallery’ – a wall of Kilner jars containing ingredients – inspiring guests to adopt similar practices and reduce their own waste.

Head Chef, Connor Blades takes inspiration from the seasons. In terms of the culinary process, fermentation and preservation are hugely important – ingredients are transformed using a range of methods, ensuring they can be used later in the year to their best quality. Ugly Butterfly primarily only uses ingredients sourced from in and around Cornwall but takes inspiration from all the chefs in the Adam Handling Restaurant Group who are based

at other sites in London and Old Windsor. When the menus are changed for the new season, all the Head Chefs across the Group sit together and plan – the menus are designed with the whole group in mind. If one of the chefs has an amazing idea for an ingredient, they’ll draw a diagram of it, put it in the middle of the table and work out which restaurant is going to use which part, so absolutely nothing gets wasted. If the Group can’t use the whole thing, it doesn’t get used at all. Menu development is always exciting, with so many creative ideas growing from the chefs sitting down together.

The Ugly Butterfly team has built trusted relationships with suppliers across the Duchy and are fully ingrained in the Cornish community. To Adam, ‘celebrating local’ is not only about celebrating rich local produce but also about having the opportunity to completely immerse the team in their local environment. For example, following a collaboration with The Eden Project, they now have access to a variety of ingredients grown there, such as pandan leaves, tropical fruits and a range of teas. The team also works with local artists using driftwood, repurposed surfboards and materials from delivery packaging to create artworks displayed in the bar; even working with a local surfboard shaper to utilise waste products (including

roadside rubble and clay) to create vessels that protect glassware and reduce breakage, subsequently using less energy to recycle.

Community here goes beyond the kitchen. The Ugly Butterfly bar team has been crucial in building a strong local community, hosting training sessions and seminars with global brand ambassadors. Bartenders across the Cornish scene are invited with the hope to expand everyone’s knowledge and increase commitment to sustainable operations across the south west. Adam’s Future Stars programme at Truro and Penwith College also offers training and development, teaching an understanding of sustainability practices outside of his own restaurant group. Adam comments: “I’m so grateful to have my restaurant in an place where my ethos and sustainable ambitions are reflected in the area and supported by the locals.”

Across the whole of the Group, the sustainable practices adopted at each restaurant have become a benchmark for the industry, and in Cornwall in particular, Adam’s sustainability drive is at an all-time high. Adam is proud of what his teams put in the bin – it’s hardly anything. One bin bag will last the Ugly Butterfly team a whole weekend during peak season. With sustainability at the heart of the entire operation, Adam has become an industry spokesperson on the sustainability movement, zero-waste,

and the role that hospitality has to play. This was evident when Adam was asked to cook for global leaders at the G7 Summit in 2021 at Ugly Butterfly, creating an opportunity for him to promote British and Cornish food and zero-waste food practices on a global stage.

The restaurant itself has floor-to-ceiling glass windows overlooking the ocean and an interior that features a unique dried flower installation by local florist Hayley Scott. Guests are wowed by the views of Carbis Bay as soon as they walk in; views only surpassed by the spectacular presentation of the dishes served with a touch of Adam Handling theatre and flair. Ugly Butterfly works closely with growers, farmers and fishermen across Cornwall – seafood from Matthew Stevens, grass-fed beef from Homage to the Bovine, organic vegetables, herbs and fresh flowers from Trenow Fields and dairy from Trink – all chosen for beliefs and practices that align with Adam’s own.

Eating a meal here is much more than the sum of its parts. Diners are not just experiencing incredible tastes, they are actively participating in a movement that is seeing a forward-minded, environmentallyconscious practice permeate through the finedining industry; a practice which the Ugly Butterfly is proud to be leading in Cornwall.

uglybutterfly.co.uk

HEAD Heart over

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL

It was back in 2018 that Copperfish Distillery began to take root. What was once the seed of an idea was now finding its form, with its feet set firmly on the Buller Quay in east Looe. It was the founders’ vision to create great tasting, truly authentic Cornish drinks, made right here in the county; a vision that lies at the heart of the business and rings true to this day, with the team still dedicated to the quest of putting Looe on the map when it comes to food and drink in Cornwall.

In conversation with Andy Walton, a Copperfish co-founder, it quickly becomes clear that passion runs at the heart of this venture, from the complex distillation processes and various flavours, right down to the concept behind the name, which he kindly explains to me: “The brand

Copperfish pays tribute to two major Cornish industries, namely fishing and mining, and with that comes a secondary reference to the tradition of using copper stills in the process of distillation. Working closely with the talented Andrea Lilley of Moosedisco to bring the logo and our Copperfish creature to life, we chose to incorporate the colours of copper oxides to reflect the range of flavours available.”

Working alongside Andy is Director Billy Martin, Jemma Hackett in customer support, and Distiller Rob Johnston, the man behind the creation of the incredible range of products to the Copperfish name, from the mashes and fermentation right through to the finished bottled product, and that’s what sets Copperfish apart from the crowd; it’s made entirely from scratch!

Copperfish Gold Rum

The Copperfish Distillery

Hand crafting high-quality, great tasting drinks in small batches with passion and pride, Copperfish knows how to showcase the very best of Cornwall.

With a mantra of ‘proper spirits, made proper’ running through the entire process, nothing is bought in pre-made to blend or flavour, as is so often the case. During our conversation, Andy kindly guides me through the process, from ‘cane to glass’, as the team like to call it.

“First, we carefully select varieties of cane sugar and molasses for different flavour profiles,” he explains. “These are used to create a wash which is fermented under careful supervision to create as much alcohol as possible, while generating the best flavour. The alcohol is then poured into the still and gradually heated up to the desired temperature, where the magic of distillation starts. Under the careful supervision of Rob, our distiller, the alcohol evaporates into the crown of the still before its long journey through the columns of plates where the spirit is refined before it condenses into white rum. Here, Rob expertly makes his cut. He removes the first part of the run, known as the ‘heads’, as this part has some undesirable elements and taste. Shortly after this he selects the ‘hearts’ to keep for our selected rums before discarding the weaker ‘tails’ at the end of the run. The hearts then go into our selected oak barrels; we have a range of barrels including some recoopered Caribbean rum barrels that have been crafted into smaller craft-size barrels, along with sherry and bourbon barrels.”

The results of such determination and careful attention to detail have reaped numerous awards, with their very first release, the Copperfish Gold Rum, winning the Taste of the West 2022 Gold award. With an incredibly smooth finish, this rum develops its flavour due to the generous length of time it takes to mature in the oak barrels, and goes nicely with a quality ginger ale, ice and a squeeze and slice of lime. It wasn’t too long after that the Limited-Edition Pineapple Rum was released, complete with a final stage of resting the aged rum on a bed of fresh pineapple, made even more fabulous with lemonade, ice, crushed mint and a wedge of lime.

Next would come the best-selling, Taste of the West 2022 Silver awarded Copperfish Spiced Rum. Delicately spiced to complement the great flavour of the barrel-aged rum, the usual sweet vanilla and fiery ginger are not to be found here; it is wonderful neat or with a tonic, cola or ginger ale. With the festive season in mind, the Limited-Edition Chocolate Orange Rum was next on the list, and the team put a little something different in the distillation process to the test; cacao nibs and orange peel were added to the infusion basket of the still, creating a delicately flavoured rum best poured over ice and cola or stirred into black coffee. Copperfish’s next endeavour certainly isn’t for the feint hearted. Now launching is

the much-anticipated Black Rum, smooth, flavoursome and boasting a hefty 57% alcohol volume, to be handled with caution! The attention to detail doesn’t end with the rum itself, and with the striking Copperfish branding across the range in various copper oxide colours, you may, like myself, find it rather difficult to choose.

Whilst discovering the wonderful world of rum at Copperfish, another product caught my eye that begged for Andy’s explanation: “Moonshine is a name for an unaged whiskey, known in America as either Moonshine or White Dog, but don’t go thinking it’s a crude drink. Made from a mash of local corn, barley and wheat, it is fermented and distilled into a clear ‘white’ grain spirit.” Their original Moonshine was awarded a Taste of the West 2022 Gold, and makes for a fine, smooth spirit. Today, the range has grown into a collection of flavoured Moonshines cut as liqueurs.

One thing that the team are particularly excited to introduce is a long-awaited product that will bring something entirely new to the Copperfish table, which Andy is more than happy to elaborate on: “We’ve been working on this for a long time, so it’s very exciting to be bringing this to the market at last. We are delighted to introduce Kerbon®, a Cornish, bourbon-style spirit. As it says on the bottle, ‘If you like bourbon, you’ll love Kerbon®’. Here is a Cornish, oakbarrel-aged spirit made from local Cornish corn, barley and wheat; a super smooth

dark spirit you can enjoy as an alternative to whiskey or bourbon.”

With such an incredible range of products under their belt, it’s no wonder that the team have been looking for a way to welcome people into the wonderful world of distillation, and a second unit overlooking the river in Looe promises just that, as Andy explains: “We’re developing this space to allow us to welcome people in to learn about what we do, how we make our products and, of course, to taste them! Along with tours and tastings we will eventually run immersive experiences to allow visitors to get hands on knowledge of fermenting and distilling while having fun sitting on the balcony overlooking the river, sipping the fruits of the days labour. We’re keen to create an attraction that suits whatever the weather and isn’t bound by the summer season. Looe has some fabulous food and drink so we’re hoping to be a part of a drive to attract people to come and immerse themselves in the delights Looe has to offer.”

Five years on from that very first rum, Copperfish have a shining collection of spirits to suit all tastes, each made from scratch in the heart of Cornwall by a company that keenly encapsulates hard work, determination and superb attention to detail that has earnt them multiple awards, each one well-deserved, a true demonstration of ‘proper spirits, made proper’.

copperfishdistillery.co.uk

Pure of

LAND

WORDS BY REBECCA HAWKEY

There is no doubt that Cornwall is a desirable place to live. It draws people in with its golden sand beaches, unrefined clifftops, verdant countryside, and intoxicating charm. For Joe and Nicki at Elemental Cornish Gin (as the brand was previously known), they were hooked from the very beginning, and have since created a life for themselves and their family here in the heart of Cornwall. Over hurdles and through emotional trenches, Joe and Nicki have breathed new life into a well-loved brand, bringing it to the forefront of the distilling game here in Cornwall, and taking Elemental to the next level. I speak to Nicki about their humble beginnings.

Tell us how you ended up living and working in Cornwall, and what drew you here?

Joe and I met at university in Plymouth and spent much of our time surfing on the north Cornwall and Devon coast. We had already done a fair amount of travelling separately, but after university we packed our backpacks and headed East. We spent a few years travelling through China and most of Southeast Asia, Australia and then across to Canada and South America, eventually ending up back in the UK. After hopping around London and Oxfordshire for a few years

Returning to the place that felt most like home, Joe and Nicki have breathed new life into a beloved family-run business.

Norvys Cornish Moorland Vodka

we headed back down to the south west of England, where we first met, and arguably one of the most beautiful places in the world.

With a background in conservation and ecotourism I worked in the travel industry for nearly ten years, and Joe worked in project management, and still does. This lends itself surprisingly well to running a distillery, although trying to balance this with two small children can be a challenge.

We are an outdoors family. You could just as easily find us at the beach as up a mountain. We are incredibly lucky to live where we do and have our kids grow up in the wilds of Cornwall. We try to make the most of it as much as we can.

How did you go from conservation and project management, to distilling in the Duchy?

Joe stumbled across the distillery one day and jokingly asked me if I would like a gin distillery in Cornwall. Being the gin-lover that I am, obviously I said ‘hell yes’! We knew that we wanted to make something, to be creative and work for ourselves, and we have always known that we would end up in this part of the world. After much soul searching, many sleepless nights and a few Elemental gin and tonics, here we are! We threw our heart, soul and all our money into this business so it is very much a part of us. We had found our next adventure.

Our Classic recipe was developed by Elemental’s original founders Jon and Jilly back in 2013. They wanted to create a premium quality, hand-crafted Cornish Gin back when there were significantly fewer gins on the market. Elemental was one of the first gins to be distilled and bottled in Cornwall for over 300 years, and it took months of alcohol alchemy to perfect the recipe, which for a long time was a closely guarded family secret. They wanted to create a classic gin that paid tribute to the amazing place in which it is made and was best enjoyed in good company.

Joe and I took over the distillery in early 2020. Since the beginning, we have continued the tradition of creating the hand-crafted, small-batch, premium gin that people know and love, which has been of great importance to us. That, and breathing some new life into the distillery and the brand. By continuing to pay homage to Cornwall, and the elements that surround us, we honour the land that helps craft our delicious gin.

Elemental has its roots in gin. Is this still the case, or have you branched out?

It was! But Joe has always had his sights set on experimenting with something different. We have recently brought out Norvys Cornish Moorland Vodka; fantastic, pure, extremely smooth and versatile, this is a vodka that we are incredibly proud of and have high hopes for. Norvys, which means ‘earth’

in Cornish, is charcoal filtered and blended with the finest spring water sourced from Bodmin Moor. Once again, we love where we live, and the name is a nod to one of our most valuable elements that we need to love and protect. Back in the summer of 2022 we also decided to get Elemental Gin beach ready, and released our awesome Beachside cans which are made with our awardwinning Classic and Apple Gins. We have been blown away with the positive reaction to these and hope that they will be filling all Eskys around the county this summer! These exciting new products led us to rebrand as Elemental Distilling Co, a better reflection of our company as it stands today.

You took over Elemental Cornish Gin just before Covid-19 breached our shores. What has the journey been like for you?

It was hands down the biggest hurdle. The hope was that Joe and I would run the business together as a team, but unfortunately the impact that Covid had on the business, and the industry, delayed a lot of our plans and only added to the juggling act, resulting in lots of late-night bottling and labelling.

When we started out it was Joe and I, and this is still the case. Between us we run the business and make the gin, but we are now joined by Izzy, queen of all things sales and marketing. We also have Allen, who is our distilling assistant, making sure our bottles

hit the road in pristine condition, as well as keeping us in line! We have a whole support crew made up of family, friends and neighbours whom we could not do without, not to mention our chaotic kiddos and furry friends. When we say we are a family-run distillery, we really mean it.

The distillery itself is a little building/big shed at the bottom of the garden – very literally. A walk to work consists of wellies and views overlooking the rolling Cornish countryside. Access is tricky and in winter we have a farmer friend who helps us bring in our larger deliveries and our pallets of bottles through the mud-strewn fields, to avoid getting our pallet truck stuck!

We do love it – it’s beautiful and quaint – but it’s not overly practical, so we have some exciting plans to move to a bigger distillery within the awesome Clearspace Hub at Dunveth Park in Wadebridge very soon, so watch this space.

Joe and Nicki have family at the heart of all they do, this much is clear. Thanks to their dedication and love for this endeavour, Elemental Distilling Co has stayed true to its roots. Crafted using traditional methods, they continue to distil the small-batch, premium spirits that have been synonymous with Elemental for all these years, paying tribute to the lands we call home.

elementaldistillingco.co.uk

DAWN A new

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Chef Tom Hannon’s dream was to own and run a pub; but not just any old pub. For Tom, and wife Katie, it had to be somewhere that would extend a warm, friendly and genuine welcome to all. A pub where beers and ales were well-kept, the wine list was carefully curated, the back-bar enviable and, most importantly, food that would have guests returning again and again. So, in 2014 Tom and Katie took the reins of The Rising Sun in Truro, an 18th century building with a dining pub at its heart. With an ethos of inherent and uncompromising quality and attention to detail they have created a dining destination that has garnered a loyal foodie following and industry acclaim.

For Tom, it all begins with the ingredients –local, seasonal produce: “It may sound cliché, but it’s really important to me, and it’s not just about buying any local produce, it has to be the best and it has to be in season.” The Rising Sun’s menu has good food at its core, with dishes that are tweaked and evolve as the seasons change, but rather than those seasons being shoe-horned into the obvious spring, summer, autumn and winter, Tom embraces a more organic approach. “Seasons don’t just stop and start, it’s much more fluid than that,” says Tom. “So, today I’ll go foraging for wild garlic and that will now feature on the menu as it’s come into season. We also have a lovely duck dish on at the moment using purple sprouting broccoli

A micro-seasonal approach to produce affords exceptional pub dining in the heart of the city.

but that’s coming to an end now, so we will move over to asparagus when that rolls into season. We try to be produce-driven wherever possible. For example, most of our fish is dayboat caught, and when I call our supplier, I don’t tell them what fish I want, I ask them what fish I should buy and that’s how we build the menu and the dishes.”

For Tom, it’s not just about seasonality, it’s also about provenance: “Flying Fish is our choice of supplier for seafood and they’re absolutely superb, supplying some of the best restaurants in the country. The pub is also licenced to buy fish directly from day boats. Sometimes a fisherman might send me a picture of what’s on his boat asking if I would like it? Caught that day, two hours later it can be in my kitchen. It’s the same with Philip Warren, our beef supplier. I can tell you who breeds our beef, what breed of animal it is, where it has come from, and it’s this traceability; that’s fundamental to what we do. I believe that if you’ve got amazing food to begin with, you actually don’t have to do a lot to make it taste great. I feel a bit of a fraud if I’m being honest; I just have to treat the ingredients with love, care and respect and the result is an amazing dish.” Having worked

closely with some of his suppliers for more than 20 years, this collaboration has helped to drive The Rising Sun’s food offering to new heights; the result is simple and elegant.

Following the mantra of ‘what grows together, goes together’, Tom selects from an incredible local larder. WestCountry’s Canara Farm stamp brings seasonal ranges of the most inspiring and remarkable produce grown by selected local farmers and growers from across the south west to Tom’s kitchen. Agroecologically cultivated vegetables come from Soul Farm just a few miles away the pub, while incredible micro-cresses are grown by a lady in Truro. “Not every kitchen has the ability to source produce like this, but because we’re small, we can. So, while we’re in position to do so, I believe this is the way we should work.”

Tom’s style is classic French, with British and modern European influences: “I love classic French cooking and take elements of this as highlights within my dishes. For example, we have a lovely fish dish on at the moment that we serve with a bourguignon garnish. We combine shallots, pancetta lardons and black trompette mushrooms which are fried off and plated with wilted spinach, topped with

a roasted piece of fish scattered with crispy capers and parsley, and served with pomme purée and the bourguignon sauce.”

Duck appears as a signature dish on the menu: at the moment this features a pan-fried breast served on a bed of orange glazed Chantenay carrots, with parmentier potatoes, purple sprouting broccoli, goat’s cheese bonbons and a little carrot and cardamom purée. The duck leg is then French trimmed and confited with a pomegranate jus and garnished with microcoriander grown just down the road. For beef lovers, the fat is all taken off a loin of beef to leave the eye of the meat. This is then pan-fried and served with spinach, a caramelised onion purée, beer pickled onions, black trompette mushrooms, a red wine jus and pancetta crisps. Diners are always greeted with fresh bread; baked in-house daily, served with homemade butter – the perfect accompaniment for perusing the menu. It’s these little extras, such as the homemade melt-in-the-mouth coffee biscuits, that add the personal touch.

Drinks are important too – of course they are, this is a pub after all. Beers and ales are afforded the same care and attention as the food

ingredients, locally brewed and well kept. The back bar selection is unsurpassed in the county, each bottle chosen for its flavour. Katie is the pub’s sommelier and can advise on wine pairing from the venerable list, includ biodynamic varieties; this too changes with the seasons.

Above all, Tom and Katie wanted to create a really lovely pub. From the furniture and pictures on the wall, to cutlery and tableware, food, drink, and even a secret garden for al-fresco feasts, each and every element is thoughtful. “I wanted to take the elements of fine dining and lose the pretence, putting it into a relaxing and welcoming environment with exceptional service.” says Tom. “I come from quite a humble background, where eating out in a restaurant wasn’t something we could afford to do. With this in mind, I wanted to create a dining pub where all are welcomed, whatever the class or background. Come for a lovely pint at the bar, or a delicious glass of wine. Come for one course or three. In every case, we want our guests to have a wonderful experience.” The Rising Sun is a hub for hospitality in its purest of forms.

therisingsuntruro.co.uk

A taste OCEAN of the

WORDS & IMAGES BY REBECCA HAWKEY

High on the hill, overlooking the glistening expanse of the Camel Estuary, sits Padstow Harbour Hotel. Originally this Victorian dwelling, constructed in 1901, was called the South Western Hotel, and it has been serving as such an establishment from the very beginning – providing shelter and luxury accommodation for those on their travels. In 2019, after a mere handful of previous owners, it has settled itself comfortably under the ownership of Harbour Hotels, a company that operates 15 luxury hotels across the UK. Since its new lease of life, The Times has featured Padstow Harbour Hotel on a series of coveted lists, such as; ‘Best Luxury Hotels in Cornwall 2022’, ‘The Cool Hotel Guide’, and ‘30 of the Best Hotels in Cornwall’. It’s no wonder then that this impressive enterprise is rated the number one place to stay in Padstow.

As a local Cornish dweller, I don’t often get to explore some of the more prestigious hotels that dot our shores, so when I had

the opportunity to chat to the head chef of their renowned Harbour Kitchen and Bar, and take a peek behind the scenes, I was enthusiastic to say the least. Their restaurant and bar invites relaxed waterside all-day dining, offering light, seasonal, and locallysourced food, with a tastefully curated menu to order from. Their extensive drinks menu features eclectic wines, cocktails and a selection of locally distilled gins and local craft beers, so you can get a real taste of what Cornwall is all about.

Head Chef Mark Aldred has been working at Padstow Harbour Hotel since 2017. With 15 years of head chef experience and leading a kitchen, he has developed the menu in a way that explores the produce that Cornwall delivers in abundance, with popular favourites being the cod and crab, the southwest cider mussels, and the sea bass served with clams and sea vegetables. Mark and the team work hard to source their produce from local suppliers where possible, like their beloved cod coming straight off the boats at

Head Chef Mark Aldred

Exploring one of Cornwall’s finest establishments, and the remarkable menu that keeps getting better.

Newlyn Harbour. This kind of dedication to supporting local catchers and growers is a testament to the standard of produce that Cornwall has in abundance. When speaking with Mark, I learn that he is local to Padstow, having grown up on these shores. His love for Padstow, and Cornwall as a whole, is evident in the way he speaks about the natural beauty of what lies just beyond the hotel doors. Working at Padstow Harbour Hotel grants unrestricted views across the estuary and to the dunes beyond; it is a sight to behold, and one that we can all enjoy from the comfort of the restaurant and bar. I don’t know about you, but a vista like the one I was treated to, paired with an ice cold gin and tonic and a plate of the vibrant, mouth-watering cod, sounds like a day well spent.

Given Padstow’s reputation for astounding cuisine, it should come as no surprise that more than a few culinary masterminds reside here. Whilst that may be daunting to some, Mark sees this as nothing more than healthy competition. Mark has a natural desire to push the envelope when it comes to crafting new and exciting dishes, and he does so with the help of his entire team. He believes that everyone from the executive chef to the commis chef have something to offer when evolving a menu, not just for their ideas, but as a way to keep everyone enthused and engaged about what they serve and where they get their

produce from. Working in such a respectable establishment, and creating the dishes that they do, is a team effort after all.

When wandering the halls of Padstow Harbour Hotel, I couldn’t escape the feeling of instant relaxation that seemed to emanate from the very walls. As soon as you step through the door you are greeted by colours, textures and patterns that seem to be pulled from the depths of the sea. The pastel blues and seaweed greens flow from one end to the other, drawing you further in, and I was only too happy to oblige. It wasn’t just the colours that caught my eye, but the carefully curated motifs dotted from room to room. From beautifully hand-crafted miniature sailing boats, to an actual boat suspended from the ceiling, these accents of the ocean were every bit as impressive as you would imagine. Settling down in the restaurant and bar, I was able to get a feel for what a bustling summer’s day here would be like. The skies delivered some classically Cornish mizzle for my visit, and the tide was out so as to reveal the extensive sand bank of the surrounding estuary, and yet I was still in awe. Even on the greyest of days, the views from Padstow Harbour Hotel never fail to encourage calm and serenity – a perfect combination to sit back and enjoy some of the best food and drink that Cornwall has to offer.

harbourhotels.co.uk/padstow

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS:

350g cod loin

8 asparagus spears

½ red onion (finely chopped)

1 large clove garlic (chopped)

1 large plum tomato (roughly chopped)

1 red pepper roasted (skinned and de-seeded)

10 new potatoes (Parisian, cubed or turned)

Pinch of saffron

10 large mussels

METHOD

Cod:

Lightly salt the cod in the fridge for approximately five to six hours, and cut into two equal pieces.

Tomato and spring onion dressing:

On a baking tray, lightly sprinkle the cherry tomatoes with sugar and smoked sea salt. Place in a preheated oven at 100 degrees celsius for three to four hours. To make the dressing, slice the spring onion at an angle and place in a mixing bowl, with half the red onion and dried tomatoes. To finish, coat the mixture with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice and mix with a spoon.

Red pepper coulis:

In a frying pan sweat half the red onion and garlic until soft. Add the chopped tomato and roasted pepper, and cook until it starts to dry out slightly. Place in a blender until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then pass through a sieve and set aside.

Saffron potatoes:

Place the new potatoes in a pan of water with a pinch of salt and saffron. Cook until just about soft, then refresh in cold water and set aside.

Mussel popcorn:

Place the mussels in a warm pan on the stove, add a splash of white wine and cook

White wine (Flour, egg, milk and panko breadcrumbs for panne)

8 cherry tomatoes (halved)

1 large spring onion

Squeeze of lemon juice

Drizzle of olive oil

Sprinkle of sugar

Smoked sea salt (optional) until all the mussels open fully. Once cooked, remove the mussel meat and discard shells, chill the mussels in the fridge until cold. Once chilled, panne the mussels with flour, egg, milk and breadcrumbs, and place back in the fridge ready for frying.

Asparagus:

Bring a pan of well salted water to the boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and add your asparagus. Cook for roughly three minutes. Drain and place into a bowl of iced water.

Finishing touches:

Take your cod from the fridge and wash off excess salt. Pat dry with kitchen paper, and place the cod skin side up into a heated nonstick pan with a drizzle of oil. Cook until golden brown, turn the heat down and leave for four to five minutes. Gently flip the cod over and cook for another four to five minutes. Meanwhile, reheat the saffron potatoes in a pan of simmering water, adding your asparagus when the potatoes are almost cooked. When done, brush with butter and keep warm. Fry your mussel popcorn in a fryer or pan of oil, cook until crispy and heated all the way through. Spoon your pepper coulis onto a plate, place cod in the middle skin side down, and arrange the potatoes, asparagus and mussels around the plate. Finish with a drizzle of the tomato and spring onion dressing.

Roasted cod loin and mussel popcorn, served with asparagus, saffron potatoes, a red pepper coulis with a tomato and spring onion dressing.

BEHOLDER eye of the The

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING | IMAGES BY KIERAN BRIMSON

Beauty in all its forms brings epicurean artistry to the shores of Carbis Bay, at Walter’s on The Beach.

Beachside eateries abound in Cornwall, but in recent years there has been a move away from the ubiquitous seaside fayre to culinary hot spots that embrace the senses in more ways than one. Doing away with coastal decorum in favour of flavour, flair and conviviality, Walter’s on The Beach embodies a welcome sophistication and glamour that has long been yearned for.

Joining the Carbis Bay Estate’s stable of restaurants – The Beach Club, Ugly Butterfly by Adam Handling, The Orangery and The Hungry Gannet, whose individual and unique offerings act as a uniting culinary thread– Walter’s is more experience than eatery.

It’s toes in the water position affords an alfresco eating space with a vista that takes in a swathe of fine white sand, whose gentle curve culminates in craggy headlands. The waters of the bay are azure and reminiscent of more tropical climes – its oft-used portmanteau, Carbados, couldn’t be more appropriate. In keeping with a location that feels many miles from home, Walter’s is as effortlessly chic as it is eclectic. Floor-to-ceiling windows, parquet flooring and simple pendant lights are the canvas for an opulent interior palette of the deepest teal, softened with texture from gold velvet and green leather, and accented with a kaleidoscope of colour from a scatter of cushions and fabulous botanical murals.

In contrast, the terrace is paired back, taking its glamour from location alone – which is all that is needed when the ocean is within touching distance. The vibe is Ibiza-esque; the air filled with chatter over the gentle beat of cool music. It’s refreshing that Walter’s, while unreservedly glamorous, is a disrupter in its identity, being at once a cool cocktail bar, a luxurious long lunch location and a dramatic dinner venue. This is a place that invites getting dressed up; the click of a heel, the sweet smell of perfume combined with the salty sea air, the finest of fabrics caught by the ocean breeze are never out of place… but then neither are sandy toes and sun-kissed faces sipping cocktails on the promenade shaken by magical mixologists Frankie and Ionut.

Walter’s central dining bar is for all intents and purposes a drinks theatre, the likes of which wouldn’t be out of place in any cosmopolitan city. Delicate bubbles of smoke burst dramatically in front of your eyes while the crystal ice cubes are stamped with the Carbis Bay Estate brand. Attention to detail is always at the fore and here you can sip on cocktails that are regularly reviewed as the best this side of London. For the White Basil Smash, gin is infused with kaffir and basil, and expertly mixed with citrus, sugar cane and topped with a gin and tonic foam with kaffir. The Second Sour of the Day combines

brandy, peach, vanilla syrup, citrus, orange, egg white and bitters. You get the picture… There’s nothing static about the cocktails here. Walter’s experienced and inventive bar tenders are continually developing the drinks menu using avant-garde techniques and interesting ingredients to create cocktails that are heady potions designed to delight all of the senses.

The list of barrel-aged cocktails is testament to the fact that experimentation here is embraced, not shied from – and perhaps a nod to the area’s history of piracy where contraband was most likely to have been landed on these very shores. The barrel ageing process helps to develop and enhance the flavours, creating a more refined blend of cocktail mix. Barrels are lined with port before the ageing process begins. The alcohol pulls out the flavours and colours from the oak, often adding a hint of vanilla, coconut, or marzipan and the timed process of oxygenation (which takes up to six months) marries the ingredients together perfectly, producing a refined harmonious pour.

There is no better way to enjoy each sip than with one (or indeed a few) of the elegant cocktail snacks on offer. These delicate amuse bouches explode with flavour – the Thai soup is exceptional as is the pork crackling – and raise the curtain on the first act of a

menu devised by Carbis Bay’s executive chef Andrew Houghton. Internationally inspired dishes share a culinary home with British classics; Cornish Sardines, kipper ice-cream and enoki mushroom dashi come highly recommended on the list of starters as do pan-roasted scallops, spiced cauliflower couscous, kombu and chilli purée.

Seafood, as one would expect being so close to an ocean larder, abounds; butterbaked whole flat fish, potato, samphire and walnuts is delicious in its simplicity of flavour combination, while prime white fish, pancetta bourguignon, parmentier potatoes, leek ash and lemon gel is artistry on a plate. Desserts are eye candy personified and refreshingly honest. Date and walnut pudding is treated to a languid coating of toffee sauce or for something a little more refreshing (although the pudding is as light as air) a mango colada has tropical accompaniments of coconut sushi rice pudding and a coconut and malibu mousse.

There is a real feeling of both celebration and adventure at Walter’s. The intelligent menu changes with the seasons in order to incorporate the freshest of ingredients and the exquisite, deep coloured dinnerware, along with the finest of glasses are as much part of the artistry as they are functional. To accompany lunch or dinner, the wine list is

long and venerable. Those with a taste for champagne won’t be disappointed – Veuve Clicquot, 2009 Dom Pérignon and Krug Grande Cuvée Brut NV all find a place –and of particular note is Walter’s exclusive collation of reds that herald from France’s most exclusive châteaux.

Sometimes, Walter’s adopts a cheekier side by taking its guests out on to the sand. Feast nights are a time for social dining on long tables, laden with food cooked over fire. The experience is elemental and shows that, while Walter’s is sincere about the quality of the food and drink it serves, it knows not to take itself too seriously. This is a culinary adventure, full of energy and passion, designed for all to enjoy.

carbisbayhotel.co.uk/dine-with-us/ walters-on-the-beach

SIMPLICITY Qualityin

WORDS BY DAN WARDEN

After a recent refurbishment, the food and drink spaces at Newquay’s Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa now provide a calm, coastal environment in which to relax and enjoy the views. Neutral hues, comfortable seating and rustic woven lampshades set the tone for the wider restaurant ethos – quality through simplicity – and those who have an eye for the epicurean will undoubtedly spot the AA Rosette that proudly adorns the wall. Awarded in 2020, it is the result of the hard work of Head Chef, Daniel Kerr.

Drawing on the best local and seasonal produce that he can lay his hands on and presenting it simply, he allows the flavours to sing for themselves, which they do. Coming aboard in 2019, Daniel’s approach to food has really enlivened the Dune Restaurant experience. “Choosing quality meat, fish,

dairy and vegetable products is key to my menu,” he says. “The more that we can shout about the quality of the food and where it has come from, the better for our guests’ understanding of what they are choosing to eat when dining at Dune Restaurant.

“I want guests to experience flavours and dishes that they’ll remember,” he elaborates, which is why he draws on influences from around the world in order to capitalise on Cornwall’s natural, seasonal larder. Teriyaki Mackerel and Oyster Cream is a good example, as is Monkfish and Lentil Dahl, both of which feature on the current tasting menu. And for those who share the belief that variety is the spice of life, Daniel explains that “whilst we do have a great selection of small plates on the menu to allow for a more relaxed, tapas-style of dining, we also offer a traditional three-course option.”

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa’s new dining spaces shake off the shackles of formality with a no-fuss, AA Rosette award-winning approach to fine dining.

Changing from season to season and thereby always offering something new to sample, the award-winning menus are, themselves, worth booking a table for. The same can be said for Bay Bar. Awarded ‘Best Bar List’ at the prestigious Trencherman’s Awards 2022, Bay Bar’s menu of creative tipples has been carefully curated to leave a lasting impression. The team are as passionate about the contents of your glass as Daniel is about what appears on your plate, and as with the food, there is a feeling of worldly inspiration, driving a different level of creativity when it comes to capitalising on Cornwall’s burgeoning scene of brewers and distillers.

To accomplish all of this is undeniably impressive, but to do so in such a beautiful location is nothing short of a triumph. By removing the pomp and fuss from fine dining, and by taking a simpler approach to hospitality – one that does away with formality and welcomes you to relax – the team have produced an experience that’s so much more than a meal out. It’s chemistry in its purest form – a tonic for an increasingly frantic world that allows our stresses, woes and anxieties to melt in the sun and disappear with the tide.

fistralbeachhotel.co.uk

Falling FLAVOUR for

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL | IMAGES BY JAMIE DUMONT

Walking the cobbles of Falmouth’s High Street, you soon get the feeling of having stepped into a burgeoning bohemia of culture, art and cuisine, with a reputation for unique and forwardthinking independent businesses that stretches its fingers out across the county. It’s little wonder then, that it was here that chefs and colleagues, Harry Cartwright and Jay Brady, would find opportunity reaching out its eager arms.

Harry and Jay’s collective story begins at THE PIG at Harlyn Bay, drawn from different directions to the 25-mile menu ethos that the venue upholds, alongside the prospect of the hotel’s kitchen garden, flourishing with fresh

ingredients for the pot. It would be here that that an adventurous culinary partnership in fine flavour would form between two talented chefs, each with their own unique style to bring to the palate.

Born in the South Downs National Park, Harry found his feet as a chef at 16, working his way across Hampshire in various gastro pubs. At 20 he’d move to Melbourne, working in a small-plates restaurant for two years on the other side of the world. After returning to the UK to sous chef for Ruin Beach Café on the Isles of Scilly, he would find his way back to Hampshire at Annie Jones’ Tapas Restaurant. Meanwhile, Jay hails from the small village of St. Merryn, just outside

With local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients at the core of their craft, Harry Cartwright and Jay Brady’s debut restaurant, The Mulberry, is re-shaping the world of fine dining in Cornwall.

Chef Jay Brady

Duchy Venison

Padstow. His career in food would take root in the local fish and chip shop, before he began his studies in catering at Cornwall College St Austell. A passion for the industry grew, and in his second year he’d join the prestigious Nathan Outlaw Academy. A two-year stint at The Mariners would lead up to a position at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw.

After the pair met at THE PIG in 2020, it quickly became clear that they were of one mind when it came to quality of ingredients, and a determination to source them as locally as possible, as Jay explains: “We had both always aspired to have our own restaurant. When working together at THE PIG, we would often joke that we ought to open a place together. Whilst looking to buy a house in Falmouth, Harry came across a great little restaurant bursting with character. We threw caution to the wind and decided to go for it. We had a shoe string budget but plenty of passion, and were prepared to work hard. We have similar styles of cooking and share a passion for local, seasonal and sustainable food; we wanted a restaurant that showcased the very best of Cornish produce.”

In April of 2022, The Mulberry would throw open its doors in an opening night that would delight its very first guests, offering a Falmouth-fitting fusion of fine dining with a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. “We both firmly believe in the importance of using excellent quality ingredients,” Jay continues, “and allowing the flavours to speak for themselves. Simple, but well executed food. My own background has given me an extensive knowledge of seafood and local Cornish food, whilst Harry focuses more on the meat dishes and draws a lot of inspiration from international cuisines.” Having spent considerable time in Spain and Mexico, Harry fosters a real passion for Spanish and Central American cuisine, which continues to influence his cooking today.

One year on, The Mulberry has quickly found its feet as an award-winning Cornish restaurant, having won the Muddy Stilettos Best Restaurant Award for 2022 just a few months after their opening night. With local, seasonal and sustainable produce at the core of everything they do, it’s no surprise that word spread quickly, as Harry explains: “We

Chef Harry Cartwright

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Newlyn Monkfish

Falmouth Bay Mackerel

Truffled Beef Ragu Arancini

did very little marketing when we opened, preferring to allow our customer base to grow organically by word of mouth, and it has continued to grow throughout our first year.”

Inspired by nature and the importance of having a deep connection with the provenance of their food, Jay and Harry take great care in sourcing their ingredients. “We each spend a lot of time outdoors,” Harry continues. “Jay lives on a small holding, rearing sheep, pigs, ducks and chickens, and I spend much of my free time foraging in the Cornish countryside. Experiencing the seasonality of the British climate by spending time outdoors, witnessing what is at its best in each season, gives us the knowledge to authentically create seasonal dishes.”

Renowned for its quality produce, Cornwall is a thriving natural larder when it comes to food, and The Mulberry team continue to seek new ways in which to make the most of the opportunities on their very doorstep, which Jay kindly elaborates on: “Ordering whole carcasses from Philip Warren and butchering them ourselves allows us to use every part of the animal, making sure nothing is wasted. We source the best possible ingredients from the local area, utilising small suppliers such as Patrick’s Patch, Soul Farm and Trenow Fields.

“Our menus are constantly evolving; we create dishes based on the best ingredients we can source each day, and when we run out of an

ingredient we’ll replace it with something else, or design a whole new dish!” With two distinct menus on the table, simplistic quality and flavour is favoured, each dish carefully curated by Jay, Harry and their team. The six-course tasting menu – with optional wine pairings for those who want a decadent dining experience – showcases the incredible talent behind this establishment. The thought of line-caught Newlyn sea bass in a smoked caviar butter sauce with celeriac slaw and dill oil, amongst an incredible line up of master-piece dishes, is enough to make the mouth water. For those looking to share in a taste of something smaller but equally as tempting, the small plates list is certain to satisfy; quail scotch eggs with sage mayonnaise; Fowey scallops with cauliflower purée and black pudding; dry-aged Philip Warren smoked sirloin with stuffed cabbage and black garlic mayo – selecting just a few things for the table from this show-stopping menu may not prove to be so easy.

Alongside an extensive wine list that is unlikely to disappoint the aficionados amongst you, as well as locally sourced spirits and fresh, seasonal cocktails to tingle the taste buds, here is a taste of Cornwall if there ever was one. Inspired by the gift of their Cornish surroundings in all seasons, and with a passion for quality, locality and the finest flavours, Jay and Harry are seeing The Mulberry into a new era of fine dining.

themulberryfalmouth.co.uk

jamiedumont.com

FORK Farm to

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Trevaskis Farm has been feeding visitors for more than 40 years. Much has changed on the farm since the early days, but what has always remained is the passion and foresight that business owner Giles Eustice has for this 28-acre farm. Giles is a Cornishman and his family, like so many others who are guardians of Cornwall’s fertile land, started by growing traditional crops alongside keeping a small herd of beef cattle. A hard winter sowed the seed of an idea that Giles’ father took forward in the late 1970s, which was to plant strawberries and Trevaskis soon became the go-to for ‘pick-your-own’. Its success was such that Giles’ mum opened a small cafécome-restaurant which became a hit with

locals and visitors alike. Famed for its hearty portions and impressive dessert counter, the restaurant broke new ground in terms of its offering, with nothing quite like it elsewhere in the Duchy.

Fast forward some four decades and the restaurant, now grown in size with state of the art kitchens, sees a team of up to 15 chefs working during a busy lunch or dinner service. Laurels are something Giles doesn’t believe in resting on and just before we speak he has been sitting down with his chefs developing new menus for the season ahead:

“We are constantly looking to do things better and enhance what we offer. While we have been doing what we do for 40 plus years, we have never stood still.” There has been a focus

Giles Eustice

With distances measured in footsteps rather than miles, Trevaskis Farm’s foodie credentials are top of the crops.

over the winter months on a more refined set menu which has been hugely well-received by diners, with the restaurant seating over 200 covers on a November evening – numbers that are the envy of others in the trade. So, what’s the secret of this success? “It’s because our customers buy into the concept of a finer dining menu with a great price point,” explains Giles. “Our shoulder season set menus have certainly drawn a crowd and the place has been buzzing.”

Trevaskis pays a premium to local Cornish farms for native south Devon breed beef which is always on the menu alongside their own rare-breed British Lop pork which is raised on the farm. Seasonal vegetables, freshly picked from the surrounding fields grace the plates in a fusion of colour. “We have always been known for using the

very best ingredients – the quality of the produce, the quality of the meat and animal welfare has always been a top priority for us. However, we are now taking a reverse look at all of the dishes. Whether it’s one of our everpopular steak and onion pies or our famed roast menu, we will be ensuring that the food not only tastes good but looks good too.”

With a loyal customer following, from diners who have been visiting for decades and young professionals who appreciate the provenance, to a new set of discerning Generation-Z clientele, finessing the finer details will be the icing on the cake. “It’s a difficult time for people financially and for us as a business because we’re all suffering huge increases in costs,” says Giles. “This is why we have to make sure that everything we do is done well, as people are going to choose to spend their hard-earned money wisely. This will happen from the top down, even as far as having new crockery which has been specially designed to encompass the whole farm to plate experience. Diners will be seeing an enhanced, top-notch plate offering with great provenance, great quality of product and plenty of it!”

Building on the success of the winter and spring set menus, these will now continue throughout the year. Changing seasonally on a bi-monthly basis, these will run alongside

From breakfast to brunch and beyond

the existing menus, meaning there will be something for every taste. Fear not, if you are a Trevaskis devotee, family classics such as pies, burgers, roasts and children’s dishes, and of course the dessert counter, will remain as well as the warm welcome diners always receive from Team Trevaskis.

However, it’s not just the restaurant that draws a crowd, the farm’s pick-your-own offering remains hugely popular. Alongside the ubiquitous strawberry, grown on raised beds so you needn’t stoop to fill you basket, Giles has seen resurgence in interest for a wider variety of soft fruit crops such as raspberries, gooseberries, loganberries tayberries, tumbleberries, black and redcurrants and blackberries. “The tabletop picking environment is being enhanced for the new season,” adds Giles “and we will also be undertaking growing trials on a whole selection of new strawberry varieties. We’ve previously steered away from getting too caught up in some of those varieties which, while they might produce a shiny, heavy strawberry that has a great shelf life and so works for a supermarket, the taste isn’t perhaps as good. Our new varieties will be grown primarily for taste but also to give us a little bit more longevity in the season.” The farm’s vegetable produce not only

supplies the restaurant, but also The Market. Stocking over 5000 plus different product lines, this is so much more than a farm shop. With a bakery, fishmonger and butchery, the offering is stronger than ever and still absolutely true to Trevaskis’ roots and values in terms of stocking the best product. Moving with the times and tastes, a large new freefrom section has been introduced, which is echoed in a vegan, dairy and gluten-free set menu available in the restaurant. Whatever your reason for visiting Trevaskis, you are ensured of a culinary experience that is kind to the planet, easy on the eye and sweet to the taste

trevaskisfarm.co.uk

HAVEN A delectable

WORDS BY REBECCA HAWKEY

Swanpool beach is the last stop before the urban streets of Falmouth town give way to the wild trails of the South West Coast Path. Here, nestled on the headland, lies Hooked on the Rocks, a bustling shoreline haven that provides respite and refreshment for all. Perhaps you have embarked on a lengthy coastal walk, or are seeking a romantic setting for you and your loved one, or a relaxed meal with friends and family. Hooked on the Rocks is more than happy to accommodate you, whatever the occasion may be.

When stepping through the doors of this establishment you are instantly greeted with a warmth that radiates throughout. The team at Hooked on the Rocks have a wealth of knowledge which, combined with

their experience and innate ‘service with a smile’ approach, you are guaranteed to have an impeccable dining experience. Life in hospitality, especially in Cornwall, can see record numbers of visitors descend across the Duchy come the warmer months. Remaining calm, collected and joyous under such pressures can be tough, especially when you are rushed off your feet, but not for the team here; their ability to thrive off this energy is admirable, be it a busy summer’s day or a full house come evening. Combined with their passion for the job, this means your experience here will be fun filled and unforgettable. It should come as no surprise then that this team were runners up for ‘Best Front of House Team’, at the Trencherman’s Awards 2023 – an outstanding recognition of their hard work.

This clifftop Cornish brasserie is the epitome of dining in the Duchy, surrounding its company with the sounds of the sea below whilst enjoying some of the finest food on the south coast.

This unique location, overlooking the ocean beyond, has unsurprisingly inspired their menu, focussing heavily on the abundant local seafood right on their doorstep. Thanks to their relationship with smaller, more independent catchers, growers and makers across Cornwall, they fill their larder with fresh, in-season produce, working closely with suppliers to source only the best of the day’s fish straight off the boat – evident thanks to their elegant but simple seafood menu that showcases seasonality and sustainability.

Their approach to using in-season produce allows them the freedom and flexibility to truly make the most of what each season brings, amending their menu according to available ingredients. Providing a change of dish alongside the change in weather that suits the energy of every month keeps their menu eclectic and exciting for diners. They understandably have an emphasis on seafood and shellfish all year round, given the delectable catch that’s so readily available, with a selection of dishes that are meant to be shared. Sitting down with loved ones and making time to spend together, without

distraction, is a tradition swiftly going out of style. At Hooked on the Rocks, the team believe in sprinkling this time with exceptional food that is made for such moments, passing around platters of Falmouth Bay scallops, wild prawns or West Country mussels. Whole grilled Cornish lemon sole with citrus and roast chicken butter, mussels and braised chicory tempts the tastebuds, as does the rosemary and Cornish seaweed focaccia, or Porthilly oysters, with their crab and lobsters having been caught just nine miles off the coast from the restaurant. Whilst there are fresh and fabulous flavours to be explored here, let’s not forget the classic Cornish fish and chips, a celebrated staple on the menu.

Staying local rings true for their wine, too. Wanderlust Wine is the team’s sole provider, who specialise in wines from around the world, and are committed to supplying organic, bio-dynamic, sustainable wine sourced from smaller, family-run vineyards. This ethos pairs well with that of Hooked on the Rocks, who believe in supporting independent businesses who make an extra effort to care for our planet by using minimal machinery, nature-safe chemicals, and taking into consideration our ecosystem when growing produce.

Their dedication to supporting local businesses runs deep here, not just with the food and the wine, but with the extras of soft drinks, spirits and coffee, all of which use a range of Cornish ingredients. From Camel Valley, Olfactory Coffee and Wildflower Botanicals to Knightor and Tarquins, they seek out the best that Cornwall has to offer, proudly serving locals and visitors alike.

General Manager Emma Bastian has been working with Head Chef Jack Frame to bring alive his twist to what they create here. Jack started at Hooked on the Rocks in 2018, and is not afraid to push the team to come up with new ideas for the menu, showcasing their talents through the ever-changing specials and consistently bringing a new energy to the restaurant. His ethos and drive to craft unique, sustainable, delicious meals aligns perfectly with what the rest of the team at Hooked on the Rocks are trying to achieve.

Working under their captaincy guarantees a warm welcome to the family, as Emma believes that a strong team can only be achieved if every member is happy, content and supported. From the first interaction, all the way through to the end of your experience, this family works hard to deliver only the best service year-round, beautifully facilitated by Restaurant Manager, Katie Hemmings. It’s what makes dining here so enjoyable, with customers returning time after time and sharing their experience with others.

As we come into the warmer months, with days getting longer and brighter, we can also embrace some much-needed time outdoors, after wintering for what has seemed like an age. From Easter 2023, Hooked on the Rocks are excited to be opening their Seahorse Bar for another season. This converted horsebox resides on the periphery of the site and will once again be serving delicious cocktails, beer, cider, wine, soft drinks and snacks for all to enjoy as the sun goes down. If this wasn’t enough, a local DJ will be providing all the summer vibes every Friday and Saturday

evening, a perfect accompaniment for those hazy beach days we shall all be revelling in soon enough. Whilst their main restaurant has a cosy, contemporary atmosphere, they also have a terraced al-fresco dining area, so you can enjoy your meal in the fresh sea air and sunshine, all the while being surrounded by notes of the sea as it laps the shoreline less than a stone’s throw away at Swanpool beach. This location really is second to none.

Hooked on the Rocks is a beloved Cornish establishment that values local community, connection and celebrating good food. Thanks to its noteworthy menu, it has been a feature in the Michelin Guide for two years running. This is a massive achievement that Jack, Emma and the team are immensely proud of. Whether you are a local looking for a bite to eat at your favourite spot, or a visitor that wishes to revel in all that Cornwall has to offer, then you needn’t look far. Hooked on the Rocks is ready to welcome you to this haven on the headland. hookedontherocksfalmouth.com

A flair for FLAVOUR

WORDS BY DAN WARDEN

Located on the fast-evolving Commercial Road in Penryn, Bango Kitchen provides guests with a Pan-Asian style dining experience right next to the river. With its layout and aesthetics designed with the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi in mind, the 300-yearold warehouse-turned-restaurant features a large open kitchen, partly surrounded by a mix of small and large communal tables and seating.

The restaurant is fully licensed, serving a great range of wines, beers, cider and soft drinks from Cornish suppliers. Nick and Howard have also teamed up with Black and Gold Organic Distillery to produce their very own gin – distilled just up the road in Ponsanooth – which includes ingredients that feature regularly on the food menu, like yuzu and coriander. “We firmly believe we have one of the best gins in the Cornish market,” says Howard, “and it’s available to buy from us by the glass or bottle!”

As you might expect, the drinks list is not the only menu here with a nod to locality, and whilst the food has that distinct, PanAsian panache, the meat and produce that informs the menu is proudly Cornish. “We champion incredible local producers such as Primrose Herd, Duchy Game, Flying Fish, West Country and Soul Farm,” says Nick, “and we try to use the best possible Cornish produce, alongside authentic imported ingredients to produce our dishes. Our focus is on consistency and attention to detail; our goal is to ensure our dishes look vibrant and beautiful, and that each brings a depth of flavour that lives up to their visuality.

“Our food menu is based on our own take on ramen, bao buns and a nice array of sides, alongside our talented chefs’ ever-evolving daily specials including fresh sushi and sashimi. We use a lot of traditional techniques, including making our Tonkutso Broth, which takes over 72 hours every week! We then give them a bit of extra ‘Bango’ punch and finesse.”

Bango Kitchen employs Pan-Asian panache in order to capitalise on Cornwall’s abundant natural larder.

If you’re more in the mood for a takeaway than dining in, the handy Bango Kitchen App allows you to view and book from the full menu. And for anybody organising an event, Nick, Howard and the team are able to prepare their show-stopping Bango Sushi Platters.

As well as Bango Kitchen, you can also experience Nick and Howard’s foodie finesse via The Shellfish Pig. Catering for outside events, from private parties to stable Cornish diary dates that include Rock Oyster Festival and Paul Ainsworth’s Travelling Feast, this mobile venture serves a crowd-pleasing menu

inspired by Cornish pork and seafood. And whilst it offers up something different to Bango Kitchen, both have in common a flair for the unusual and a knack for full-on flavour that is really not to be missed for those seeking to sample the best of epicurean Cornwall.

Bango Kitchen opens 11.30am to 3pm on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and 11.30am to 8pm from Thursday to Saturday. No bookings required – simply wander in and grab a table. For event information, email shellfishpig.co.uk.

shellfishpig.co.uk

It is often said that ‘we eat with our eyes’

Balance, RESTORED

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL

When I first walked through the doors of Sunshine Café and Yoga a couple of years ago, what struck me most was the tangible and uplifting atmosphere of friendly community, come together between white walls clad in cosy interiors and decorations from around the world to appreciate the simple offering of good food in good company. Little did I know then how deeply linked healthy, nourishing food is to the nourishment of the mind, as well as the body. After enlightening me on the subject of yoga and much more for DRIFT 28, I speak to Owner and Founder Ella Kite once more to delve a little deeper into the wonderful world of food at Sunshine.

“I’ve always been a bit obsessed with healthy eating and living,” Ella explains, “drawn to more natural ways of healing your body through food. I love those hardcore health food cafes that have been open for 30 years,

way before it was ‘cool’; I think I always dreamt of having one of my own.” Raised by a woman with a love for the local health food shop, inspired by her best friend who ran an organic fruit farm in New Zealand since the 1980s, Ella grew up with the foundations in place to truly appreciate good, healthy food and all the benefits that come with it.

Through Sunshine Café and Yoga, Ella has been able to share her knowledge, experience and love for fresh, nourishing flavours with anyone seeking to replenish much more than an empty stomach. Combined with the yoga studio through the adjoining doors, this is a place where body meets mind in more ways than one, on which Ella kindly elaborates: “I love the combination of the yoga studio and the café, both draw some really different and interesting people in and it’s exciting to watch them become inquisitive about other aspects of the business. It’s lovely for people

Bringing together mind, body and soul in a union of mindful movement and food made to nourish much more than the physical.

Sunshine’s Nourish Bowls

to have a space to spend time in after their yoga class, they can extend that feeling of calm that they cultivated in class. Sunshine is a great place for new connections; often people that have met in a yoga class will stay to have a drink with each other, and that’s lovely to see!

“I really wanted the café space to feel calming and relaxing, like you could take yourself out for the day and feel like you’re on a mini retreat. I designed the interior to reflect this and hopefully people feel like they are investing in their self-care when they order something delicious and nutritious off our menu.” Bowls heaped with veggies, sweet potato hash, homemade beans and sausage makes up the Sunshine Brekkie Bowl, a popular order at the café, while toasted sourdough topped with seasoned avocado, miso-marinated portobello mushrooms or homemade baked beans offers bursts of fresh flavour. The Grounding Dal, with red lentils and tomatoes infused with spices is sure to warm the heart, and the homemade granola served with coconut yoghurt, raspberry coulis and fresh fruit is a perfect start to any

day. The choice of deliciously fresh salads, vegan sausage rolls, chickpea-based quiches and tarts might make your choice of lunch rather difficult, while the monthly Nourish Bowl could be a game changer, having ranged from tempeh ramens, burrito bowls with sticky jackfruit, sushi bowls with marinated tofu, and delicious chickpea and aubergine curries.

If it’s a sweet treat you’re dreaming of, the range of vegan and glutenfree bakes – not to mention the raw, refinedsugar-free treats that are made in-house – are perfectly accompanied by a turmeric, beetroot, chai or matcha latte, just made for cosy conversations with a friend. “I wanted to create a café and menu that showed all the delicious foods you could eat that were simple, healthy and delicious!” Ella continues. “Everything is made from scratch and super fresh; we use beans, pulses, tofu and tempeh for proteins in our dishes, as I’m not a fan of all these overly-processed vegan meat substitutes. We have fresh coldpressed juices available to pack in all those extra nutrients too, which I was super keen to have on the menu.”

Sitting in my favourite corner seat in the café, resting on the squishy cushions with my hands wrapped around a warm and wonderfully green matcha latte, I can’t help but admire my surroundings, and wonder where the idea to bring food and yoga together in one place came from, on which Ella kindly enlightens me: “I was always inspired by the combination when I travelled and how both worked intrinsically into my lifestyle, keeping me grounded, connected and health-focussed. They hugely complement each other –healthy, balanced food for your physical health, balancing your blood sugar, hormones and helping support your mental health too; and yoga is amazingly beneficial for your physical and mental health, keeping your body mobile and strong and improving mental awareness and acceptance, calming your nervous system and de-stressing your life, connecting to the deep core of your being and purpose in life.”

Having opted for a Grounding Dahl, breathing in the soothing spices as I bring a spoonful to my tongue, I think of the faces behind the food, and the hands that make and serve it each day. “We have a wonderful team working in our café,” explains Ella, “some lovely and talented ladies that lift us up and put smiles on everyone’s faces.

“We have a few that rotate on the front of house shifts (Laura, Maddie and Minnie), making coffee, taking orders and serving. Then we have two lovely women that work in our kitchen, Lizzy and Sofia, making all our tasty food, raw cakes and bakes and coming up with lots of fun and tasty new

ideas! Lizzy and Minnie also teach yoga and pilates in our studio and Minnie works as a massage therapist out of our Healing Room, so it’s great that our customers get to know them even more and they can share their talents further within our community! Our café manager, Laura, keeps the whole show running and is extremely lovely to work with. I feel extremely lucky to have such a fantastic team of women to support me and Sunshine, they are all amazing and such an asset to the business.”

Feeling full and entirely replete in many more ways than one, I know now that here is a place where body and mind come together through mindful movement, thoughtful food and a celebration of conversation. By serving healthy and well-considered food and drinks, Sunshine supports your practice of yoga whilst looking after your body, with a belief that the two work together to create a nourishment for your whole being – mind, body and soul.

the Rooted LAND in

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL

With the stunning stretch of Gyllyngvase Beach sand on its very doorstep, and just tucked away from the crowd that can’t resist the beautiful temptation of Cornish sea, in a private oasis all of its own, is St Michaels Resort. Renowned for the luxurious moments of calm and indulgence to be found in the awardwinning hydrothermal spa, not to mention lavish rooms in which to lay your head, the food at St Michaels is an attraction in itself. In conversation with Head of Marketing, Stuart Beveridge, I get a taste of the flavours that deserved 2 AA Rosettes, and the refreshingly grounded ethos that seeks to stay connected to Cornish soil and waters.

“We’ve got a bit of a thing for Cornwall,” says Stuart. “The kitchen brigade at St Michaels, led by our Cornish Executive Chef Darren and Head Chef Ady are ludicrously in love with the farms, fields and seas of their home, and they want to serve a slice of that passion, topped with something zingy and seasonal.” Here you can expect fresh, honest and local menus, and a dedicated service crew who will happily talk ‘til they’re medium-rare in the face about the many food stories found on every plate in whichever of the two ocean-facing restaurants you might visit, whether that be the Brasserie on the Bay overlooking the sub-tropical gardens and the dazzling sea, or the laid-back, health-focused Garden Kitchen.

Head Chef Darren Millgate

By building a deep relationship with Cornish land and sea, the team at St Michaels Resort continue to share their food love story.

Surrounded by Falmouth’s burgeoning food scene, local boy and Executive Head Chef Darren Millgate is making waves and taking diners on a laid-back tour of Cornish fields, farms and waters at the picturesque Brasserie on the Bay. “One of my earliest memories was going out with my dad on our boat at Portholland to pull up the net and see what was in store for dinner,” Darren reflects with a smile. “Sometimes it was mackerel, or fiddly spider crabs, occasionally bass. The excitement of not knowing what would be in the net still guides me today. This is far more important to me than flamboyance and waste.” Having trained under Michelin-starred Ben Tunnicliffe, learning his trade in the south of France, Darren is back on home turf with a food philosophy centred on honest, Cornish produce. He combines this love of local produce and a high level of training to elevate crowd-pleasers to a new level: “Our food ethos at St Michaels centres on dishes big in local flavours and low in food miles. We don’t need to go far afield to source quality ingredients, we’re surrounded by them.”

On regular trips to the local Newlyn Fish Market, Darren runs his eye over an array of hake, rays, brill, turbot and red mullet, before spending afternoon’s in the fields of local organic vegetable suppliers WestCountry, getting first-hand experience of their ‘no dig, no fertilizer’ production methods. “We’re all about staying true to our roots in Cornwall, quite literally. Our menus change with the passing seasons and they’re inspired by what’s latest and greatest, whether it’s sprouting from the soil or in season from our local waters. Whatever time of year you visit us, our local food heroes will be firmly in the spotlight. Pretty well everything on your plate comes with a local story.”

For a ‘Med meets Cornwall’ atmosphere, the Garden Kitchen offers laid-back vibes and a menu to tantalise the taste buds. Think wood-fired pizzas, freshly prepared and cooked to order in the open-fronted kitchen alongside salad bowls topped with something zingy and seasonal from local fields. Set in relaxed surroundings dotted with hanging plants and complete with breathtaking views out across the gardens and ocean beyond, summer in the Garden Kitchen is a pleasant experience indeed, while winter dining makes for a cosy atmosphere in which to enjoy the warm comforts of the season. For a slice of laid-back luxury at any time of day, the Bar & Lounge’s comfortable seating areas set in calming hues amongst the convenience of table service makes for the perfect place to kick back and enjoy a tipple of your choice.

Having just launched their spring menu, the team are excited to highlight a particular local, fresh ingredient to give diners the chance to explore Cornwall’s abundant larder from the comfort of their plate. I wonder if Stuart has his own favourites when it comes to the St Michaels menus, and he kindly enlightens me: “Where to start, there are quite a few! The biggest thing that comes across from anything on the menu is the taste of sheer freshness, you can taste it immediately; the flavour and zing really pops in your mouth. Our pan-fried local scallops, accompanied by curried cauliflower puree, tea-soaked sultanas and pancetta has a wow-factor. Equally our pork belly, from the local Primrose Herd, always flies off the menu.”

The relationship that St Michaels shares with the local, Cornish suppliers that weave their

way through the ever-changing menus has been carefully nurtured in order to provide the incredible flavours of the county that the team are so proud of. From Da Bara Bakery’s breads and bakes to crab and lobster from the Cornish Crab Company, fresher ingredients couldn’t be found. By favouring WestCountry fruit and veg, Boddington’s Berries and award-winning pork from The Primrose Herd butchers, St Michaels sees quality produce grown and raised on Cornish land onto its tables, to be appreciated in an outstanding Cornish setting. Whether it be the indulgence of an afternoon tea, a comforting Sunday lunch or a dinner with cause for celebration, here is a place where you’re certain to experience a true taste of Cornwall.

stmichaelsresort.com

CELTIC ROOTSBrewed from

WORDS BY REBECCA HAWKEY

Passion, fortitude and true craftsmanship took this brewery from a stable block to the entire south west.

Keltek Brewery was founded by Stuart Heath, after a bet with his local landlord. The deal was, if Stuart could brew a superior pint, the landlord would happily put it on tap at his pub. Stuart accepted this challenge with vigour and started brewing on a 2.5 barrel microbrewery, in a disused stable block on the Roseland Peninsula. This section of Cornwall is where the expanse of the English Channel meets the verdant, wild coast. It’s an inspiring place to begin a new venture. Stuart’s small passion project, that started out in the countryside, has since developed into a successful, ever-growing business, called Keltek Brewery, the name of which came about in true Cornish style, for Keltek in Cornish means ‘Celtic’ – the

name ascribed to the ancient tribes that once inhabited Cornwall. Whilst Stuart is determined to keep building bigger and better, Cornwall will always be at the heart of this endeavour.

Stuart continued to craft his own beers, and after winning Gold for his first ever brew, the demand for his beers grew tremendously. It was decided that if this venture would continue to grow, then expansion was needed. The first move from the stable block was to a larger unit in Lostwithiel –a small parish town that straddles the River Fowey. Here, the brewery’s capacity increased five-fold, allowing the team to scale-up their operations even more. In 2007, Keltek relocated once again to

The Grim Reaper

Redruth, a bustling town not far from the north-Cornish coast; this is where they reside to this day. They now have the capacity to brew over 250 brewer’s barrels a week. In addition, they also have their own fully automated bottling line, which filters, carbonates, fills, labels and caps the beer, with everything done in-house. It’s an impressive operation to say the least.

With the team’s determination and hard work, Keltek acquired four pubs in the vicinity of the brewery in 2013, becoming just the second brewery in Cornwall to own its own estate of public houses. They went on to add two more to that estate in 2016. But regardless of their ever growing popularity, Keltek remains loyal to their Cornish roots. They are proud to call Keltek a family-owned brewery that adheres to

the age-old traditions of brewing by hand, with care and craftmanship, using the finest whole hop flowers, British malts and hand-pitched yeast. It’s what makes their beers so special, as they remain loyal to the process.

It hasn’t all been plain sailing for Keltek though. As with any business, there will always be ups and downs to manoeuvre. In the beginning, Keltek’s biggest hurdle was the introduction of their product to the market. Making a name for your brand can be a long and arduous journey, however, the passionate and proactive marketing approach that Keltek adopted from the start not only fostered long-standing relationships with their suppliers, in a short space of time, but also with their customers across the Duchy.

Supporting local events and charitable causes, which they do regularly, allows Keltek to give back to the local community; a community that has supported them from their humble beginnings, to where they are today. It is not just the business as a whole that gives back, it’s also the staff at Keltek, who choose to donate their Christmas bonus each year to a local charity in need. Last Christmas the staff chose Penhaligon’s Friends in Redruth, a testament to their dedication to the community they have

been a part of from the start. Keltek has grown exponentially since those stable brewing days, and the time has come for Stuart to step back and look on proudly at the company he has created. Now that Stuart is passing on the reigns to son, William Heath, and Managing Director, Stewart Cawte, the Keltek fire is set to continue to burn brightly, and will remain a family of its own.

It is evident that Keltek are masters in growing and developing as a business, and they aren’t slowing down any time soon. The team are working hard to become ecofriendly, and plan to install solar panels in their brewery this year to aid in this journey. Living in Cornwall, we are surrounded by the natural world, and it’s easy to see the effects of climate change all around us, from the plastic in our oceans, to the degradation of natural green spaces. Keltek are keen advocates for supporting our wildlife and their habitats as best they can, and do their bit for our environment when possible. Recently they have swapped out plastic shrink wrap to bespoke cardboard boxes, and everything from the cap on the bottle, to the packaging it is in, is 100% recyclable. It is not an easy job to build a successful business and be eco-conscious, but Keltek are mindful of their carbon footprint, and are always trying to find new ways to find a balance.

It is clear that Keltek Brewery are always looking to grow and expand their business,

to engage with customers and bring new flavours to the market whenever possible. Whilst Keltek have a delicious range of nine products on offer, they aren’t stopping there. The team revel in the challenge of creating bespoke, one-off editions for the many holiday seasons that grace our calendar year, and the brewers work hard to think up new combinations. They have also recently signed up with a handful of more wholesalers across Cornwall. The team enjoy building strong relationships with these wholesalers to make their product more widely available, not just across Cornwall but across the UK.

Keltek Brewery’s hand-brewed ales are a tribute to our county’s Celtic heritage, and through their ales they are forever telling us the tale of King Arthur, who, according to legend, was born at Tintagel Castle in Cornwall at the height of the Celtic age. I for one cannot wait to see where this tale takes us.

keltek-brewery.co.uk

Head Brewer Josh Walker

SIMPLICITY A perfect

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Renowned far beyond the reaches of the south west for his incredible take on food, Michael Caines is a name that rings true for mindful food with flavour. With restaurant buildings carefully chosen for their unique locations, the Caines ethos is about making the most of the season’s best ingredients from south westbased suppliers and utilising the creativity of the head chefs at each to bring together simple, yet delicious dishes.

“Working seasonally and south west-based,” explains Michael, “allows us to draw from an exceptional selection of produce and ingredients. For example, we champion sustainable fishing practices. By not over fishing or fishing out of season, stocks are maintained, with the result that we are able to source incredible local seafood for our dishes. We also like to champion local meat breeds, such as Ruby Red cattle which is indigenous to Devon and a slow rearing breed. By purchasing local and supporting south-west growers,

farmers and fishermen we are in turn investing in our local communities. This respect for the changing seasons translates to a beautiful variety to our menus throughout the year.”

For Michael, creating long-lasting relationships with local producers ensures not only quality ingredients but a continued respect for the environment as well as the support of local economies: “Working together with my head chefs to create great tasting food, our inspiration is essentially driven by the seasons and what’s available from nature’s ever-changing larder.” Translating this ethos to the table, Michael’s Cornish restaurants offer classic British cuisine with a Mediterranean influence.

The Cove nestles at the back of Maenporth Beach near Falmouth. With its elevated position, the views across the ocean take your breath away. Looking down on this tucked-away, white-sand bay you could be forgiven for thinking you were on the French

Bringing together the best seasonal ingredients from across Cornwall, Michael Caines believes in the beauty of supporting the county’s growers, farmers and fishermen.

Riviera, such is its charm. This is a laid-back, beachside eatery during the day, serving family favourites and light bites. Whether you’re returning from a cliff-top family stroll – The Cove welcomes dogs and children with open arms – or you’re coming off the beach with sun-kissed skin and sandy toes, appetites are sated and thirsts quenched.

When the sun shines, the sun terrace or ‘Glass House’ allow for effortless al-fresco dining. Good food is enjoyed to the murmur of happy chatter. As day turns to night, The Cove dons a more sophisticated cloak with two and three-course fixed-price options, as well as a signature, seven-course tasting menu. Match this with a wine flight and, as the lights twinkle over the sea, the experience is nothing short of magical.

Head further south to the harbour town of Porthleven, and you’ll find the aptly named Harbourside Refuge. Built in 1893, and once a china clay store at the heart of Porthleven’s historic export industry, this venerable quayside building has a toes-inthe-water position on the harbour edge. This is a town worthy of exploration; its winding streets lined with boutique shops invite gentle browsing. On sunny days, when the

sea sparkles and the gulls wheel overhead under deep blue skies, explore the South West Coast Path to either side of the harbour to enjoy endless views to the Lizard or Mounts Bay. Having worked up an appetite, step inside The Harbourside Refuge and you will be greeted by vaulted ceilings and an impressive galleried dining area. Combined with seasonal menus, this makes for a unique culinary experience.

This safe haven of food and drink, whether enjoyed in the historic building or outside on the sunny terrace as you watch the boats bob in the harbour, offers informal dining with the warmest of welcomes. Sink into one of the sofas with a glass of something chilled as you look over the menu. As with The Cove, there’s a range of dining options; informal, set and signature. Seafood always features, as does local meat, accompanied by the freshest, local seasonal vegetables simply served and full of flavour.

Caines brace of Cornish restaurants are synoymous with Cornwall’s vibrant dining scene, serving exceptional food and drink in enviable locations.

michaelcaines.com

Crab ravioli with lemongrass and ginger sauce

SERVES 8

INGREDIENTS:

For the crab ravioli

mousse:

250g white crab meat

80g brown crab meat

80g scallops

10g ginger, diced finely and blanched three times

50ml double cream

1 egg yolk

Lemon juice

Salt and pepper

Cayenne pepper

METHOD

For the saffron ravioli pate:

250g plain flour

3 egg yolks

1 whole egg

10g water

1 packet of saffron

4g salt

For the coriander oil:

10g fresh coriander

100g olive oil

Crab ravioli mousse: Place the scallops, egg yolk, cream and brown crab meat in a blender until mixed into a fine mousse. Remove from the blender and place into a bowl over some ice. Add the diced ginger and white crabmeat. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Add a few drops of lemon juice. Test mousse for texture and adjust seasoning is required.

Saffron ravioli pate: Place the water into a pan and add the saffron powder, bring to the boil and then leave to cool. Mix together the egg and egg yolk. Place into a food processor and sieve in the flour with the salt. Turn on and add slowly the water until the correct texture. The amount of liquid taken by the flour will vary so be careful not to make the mix it too dry or wet. Should be a firm texture, similar to putty. Remove from the food processor, bring together by hand and wrap in cling film before leaving to rest for 30 minutes. Rollout with a rolling pin or pasta machine.

Coriander oil: Add the coriander to the oil and gently heat the oil to 80°c degrees, and place into a jug blender. Blend and pass through a damp piece of muslin or a fine sieve.

For the lemongrass and ginger sauce:

250g crab carcasses

75g shallots

50g fresh lemongrass

75g brown crab meat

25g fresh ginger

5g whole coriander seeds

5g whole white

peppercorns

75g unsalted butter

250ml fish stock

To finish sauce:

300g unsalted butter

3g salt

Pinch of ground white pepper

5ml lemon juice

Lemongrass and ginger sauce: In a stainless-steel pan sweat the shallots, ginger and lemongrass in the butter for 5 minutes. Add the peppercorns and coriander seeds and sweat for another 2 minutes. Add the brown crabmeat and crab carcasses and sweat for 5 minutes. Add the fish stock and bring to the boil then simmer for 20 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve.

To finish: Take the sauce and add the butter, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Whisk together

To serve: Split the crab mousse into 4 equal portions and round into a dome shape using the back of a spoon. Cut the basil ravioli pate into 8 equal sized squares (4x4 inches). Place the crab mousse centrally into one square and place a second sheet on top. Using lightly dusted thumbs follow the curvature of the mousse and pat down the edges to seal the edges together. Cook in hot water (80-85 degrees) for 8 minutes. Place in a bowl and pour the sauce over the top.

AWAY A world

WORDS BY ROSIE CATTRELL | IMAGES BY REBECCA HAWKEY

Set in an old 1925 villa building, The Bolenna overlooks the green space of the village park and a tennis club which dates back to the nineteenth century. Formally a private home until 2019, Karen Colam and her daughters, Liv and Holly Huggins, took it on to give visitors their famous Poldark’s Cornwall tour business, matched with beautiful sleep experiences. It went largely unnoticed as a building until they opened up the frontage and planted nearly a million flower seeds and grasses. To venture up its gravel drive and through the wildflower meadow is to enter another world; where people feel nurtured, children play, dogs are welcome, and where

great food, wines and cocktails are served alongside generous portions of love, welcome and humour.

The rooms at The Bolenna were where it all started. Food was, at first, not the focus in a village where so many restaurants were historically focussed on the high season weeks and largely ignoring the needs of a growing local population, wanting instead somewhere great to hang out all year round. The renovated rooms embrace and restore guests in beautiful surroundings and their efforts won them awards in the toughest of markets during Covid. Bookings were looking great for 2020 and they already had pop-

In a village where everyone and everything seems to centre around the spectacular beach of Perranporth, there lies an oasis of calm and respite known as The Bolenna.

up feast nights and supper parties for hotel guests. Breakfasts were tasty and sparked the interest of many locals who wanted to sample the freshness and edgy recipes. Holly had worked with Paul Ainsworth and wanted to make the food and drink a bigger element of the offering moving forward. The Bolenna, part hotel, part restaurant-with-rooms, was ready to launch into a full scale 2020 season. Covid had different plans.

Losing every forward booking and having taken on an expensive lease made 2020 a year of reflection and creative thinking. The unseasonably warm Easter and early spring was salt in the wound, but sadly, not on any food. A conveniently positioned front window gave them a chance to serve take away as the first lockdown eased and they delivered to sheltering families in the parish, and so the food gained an enthusiastic following. Dan Wilde joined the team as head chef towards the end of that summer and a new plan evolved over the winter. They built raised beds on the oversized empty car park and started to cultivate their own organic produce. They made take-away Christmas dinners for people to really embrace their family get togethers after a period of enforced separation. Food became the focus. “Feeding and nurturing were the embracing elements of our little business,” Karen reflects fondly, “and we were and still are so grateful for the support that has helped us not fall at the first hurdle. We added a yoga and wellbeing suite for Liv to start workshops and lessons in early 2021, and installed a hot tub inside our newly

planted sensory garden. The food, service and setting started to get rave reviews, and we began to win awards and plaudits.”

Freshness and flavour is at the heart of their food, with unpretentious service in comfortable surroundings the key to everything they do. The emphasis is on the overall dining experience where you feel welcome to dwell and linger and never f eel the pressure to move over to make room for others. As the Bolenna becomes wellknown and tables sought after, they are insisting this remains and they have plans to expand the brand and move the ethos of ‘fine food, not frozen’ into other locations.

“The Bolenna cocktails are all hand built,” Karen continues, “we don’t use pre-mixes and the difference is remarkable. One regular described them as drinking a real cocktail for the very first time and realising that in other places you’d just been served ‘fruit squash for grown-ups!’” Stocking a range of local spirits, wines, beers and ciders, the team love to pioneer and champion the unusual ones. The constantly evolving wine list reflects their own love of wines and extensive travel that has influenced this. The star of the show is now, undeniably, the food! “Our garden-to-plate ethos means the kitchen makes strenuous efforts to minimise the carbon footprint of produce, bringing influences from every corner of the globe whilst using local producers wherever possible. Animal welfare is our key concern and ethical farming is essential for us at The

Head Chef Dan Wilde

Bolenna. Vegans, vegetarians and restrictive diets are all carefully considered and nothing is mass produced and frozen down just for convenience sake.”

At a time when hospitality has suffered its greatest threat it seems the natural resilience of women-led organisations sets a very different criteria for business success. “Not everything is measured by bank balances, although my accountant may not agree,” laughs Karen. “With every plate that leaves the kitchen there is a story of human creativity, love and nurturing. Having happy guests feel part of our family here is what we’re about and yes, we’re not naïve, this does mean we have to make it work in the real world too! It is an uphill struggle, but we don’t compromise on the love element; without that, we would be deep frying frozen scampi and chips by the ton and that’s just not us.”

Four generations of women fly the standard for The Bolenna. Karen’s mum, a pioneer of 60s emancipation, has been their constant supporter. Karen’s two daughters Holly and Liv, and even Holly’s two young daughters, Maya and Ruby have an active part in the running of the place. The staff have all become part of their extended family and everyone’s opinion counts. Every hand-built cocktail is trialled in house, all wine tastings are universal by everyone on site, all new food ideas are discussed, even what is grown in the kitchen garden. Anyone’s ideas are welcomed and explored. Karen thinks this egalitarian

approach is why staff retention is high in a fickle industry where people move around so much. “Having happy staff just makes our food better” she says. “Service with a laugh and a smile is the best seasoning”.

While Dan Wilde has taken on the role of head chef, some signature dishes have remained since Holly and Karen started the menu; Karen’s brunch shakshuka and Holly’s Caesar salad have been there since the beginning. Mezze platters catering for all tastes and appetites can be ordered at any time of the day. Locally landed fish and seafood ensures the best seafood dishes in the area and tasty comfort foods like the chicken cacciatore or truffle risotto sit alongside their locally legendary Sunday Lunches where even roast lamb is available and a mouth-watering selections of side dishes. Dan has even mastered a glutenfree, vegan Yorkshire pudding!

Desserts never disappoint; The Bolenna Mess range of sweets are favourites based on the classic Eton mess but incorporating different seasonal fruits and flavours, and the plant based pistachio cheesecake is to die for! Seasonal crumbles and sticky toffee puddings are there for those with heartier appetites, and local cheeses for those with less of a sweet tooth. As the year progresses, The Bolenna team will be out foraging for new and exceptional flavours, always bringing their unique twist to food, drink and the dining experience.

thebolenna.com

At one TIDE with the

WORDS BY REBECCA HAWKEY

The fishing village of Looe is overflowing with the sights and sounds of a true Cornwall. Fishing boats start their engines ready to explore the ocean before the sun has shown her face, with the help of local seagulls to announce the dawn of a new day. With the friendly chatter amongst neighbours filling the cobblestone streets, the aroma of freshly baked bread drifts past and fills the air. Having been lucky enough to grow up in Cornwall myself, I know these sights, sounds and smells all too well and the same goes for local Looe lad, Ben Palmer.

Ben spent his childhood exploring this quaint little village, full of hard-working

men and women, and he learnt early on what it meant to live off the land, respecting what mother nature had to offer. His Dad, being a sporting man, often served game for supper, accompanied by his Grandad’s fresh, homegrown vegetables from the garden out back. Thanks to such inspirations, Ben’s natural affinity for cooking was evident from a young age, and his ability to combine simple, local ingredients into a dish so full of flavour has served him well. As Ben says: “You can’t grow up in Looe and not know how to barbeque a mackerel!” It should come as no surprise then, that Ben returned to Looe in 2018 to start his own restaurant, after a brief hiatus owning and running a successful restaurant in Devon.

Ben Palmer

A childhood spent by the ocean, and a love for cuisine, has culminated in one very special Cornish restaurant.

Ben was approached by the Looe Harbour Commissioners, as they wanted to let him know about a project they were working on in the village. Their plan was to knock down and rebuild an old, disused sardine packing factory, with the hope of breathing new life into it. On the second floor of the building there would be space to open a restaurant, and they knew Ben was the man for the job. After packing up and moving back to his hometown, Ben wasted no time in kitting out this new space to create what The Sardine Factory is today – a bustling, relaxed space in which to enjoy some of the best seafood in Cornwall.

As Ben explains, they didn’t try to reinvent the wheel. The Sardine Factory didn’t need frills and fancy place settings to win the hearts and hunger of guests; his food did that for them. By taking freshly caught lobster, cooking it on the barbeque, and pairing it with a simple seasoned butter, customers can enjoy the highest quality seafood with the respect and care that it deserves, letting the flavours do the talking. Ben approaches the entire menu in this way, with an air of aloofness that creates a calm, casual atmosphere for co-workers and customers alike. Since day one, The Sardine Factory has masterfully created dishes that are almost nostalgic, familiar and yet wholly original, all at the same time. Diners can enjoy favourites

like The Sardine Factory smoked haddock scotch egg, or the Cornish crab linguine, from a whole new perspective.

As the seasons change, so too does their menu, working with mother nature rather than against her to bring new dishes with new ingredients to guests all year round. Ben and his team work closely with local fish suppliers, chatting daily about their most recent catch, and how they can incorporate that into their menu on the very same day –a remarkable connection between produce, supplier and buyer that is almost unheard of nowadays. Thanks to such processes, Ben and his team are granted an element of creativity and ingenuity when bringing dishes together, with their principal goal being pleasure. For everyone at The Sardine Factory, they believe that a meal should be a pleasurable experience from start to finish, one that brings joy and delight, not just from the food but from the environment too. Whether you are looking for fresh local oysters and lobster, or fish tacos and grilled sardines, there really is something for everyone to revel in at The Sardine Factory, its inclusivity being of great importance to Ben.

The vibe here is one of family, of friends gathering to share a meal, of locals and visitors coming together to break bread and enjoy the somewhat simple act of sharing food.

Ben and the team work hard to remove the barrier between high-end dining and casual cuisine, for they believe in amalgamating the two. Here you can create your own finedining experience, ordering some of the best lobster in the world for a special occasion, or you can rock up in flip-flops from a day on the beach and order fish and chips. The food is consistently spectacular, the atmosphere warm and welcoming, so you are free to create whatever experience you wish.

Ben’s work and love of cuisine has taken him all over the country, trying and testing food in some fine establishments, but it’s the ingredients that spark his interest. More often than not, he will notice that Cornish produce is on the menu, usually fish that has been landed in Looe of all places. Ben is proud that high-end chefs are choosing catches from the local boats in Looe, and he knows it says a lot about what Cornwall has to offer.

Since its conception, and in the five years since, Ben has pushed the limits of what a local restaurant should be, evolving and adapting to changes in circumstance – the pandemic being one, and his marriage and the birth of his three children being another. Through hard work and a solid team, The Sardine Factory received a Michelin Bib

Gourmand in 2019, recognition for all they have done so far, which was undoubtedly an emotional moment for Ben. His dream of doing what he loves, in the place he grew up in, surrounded by friends and family new and old must be a daily ‘pinch-me’ moment. For some, now would be a time to sit back on their laurels and enjoy the ride, but Ben continues to push the envelope, with even more exciting plans in the pipeline, ones that he is keeping close to his chest for now.

Living in Cornwall it’s hard not to have a deep admiration for what surrounds us, as we go from curious children who are fascinated by rock pools and woodland creatures, to adults who seek solace in her rugged coastlands and wild moors. Ben explains it best, for he says that when the sun is shining, you could be almost anywhere in the world, until you realise you wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. The Sardine Factory is seemingly born from the history books, like it has been here all along. Providing refuge and refreshment for weary travellers and intrepid adventurers, dishing up some of the best food Cornwall has to offer. I for one am excited to see what more she could possibly deliver on the next changing of the tide.

thesardinefactorylooe.com

these Within WALLS

WORDS BY HANNAH TAPPING

Fine dining and laid-back eating finds itself in an historic location.

Bodmin Jail Hotel is truly unique. Nestled in the historic Cornish town of Bodmin and not far from the wonderful wilds of Bodmin Moor, this boutique hotel was built by Napoleonic prisoners in 1779 and used as a prison until 1927, when it was decommissioned. After falling into disrepair, its current owner realised its potential with a sensitive restoration that has retained many original features. Laid out over four floors, the hotel has a steel exoskeleton with a metal landing underneath and a glazed roof which lets natural light flood in. Stylish bedrooms, which are three prison cells knocked together, exude industrial chic.

Aside from the luxury hotel accommodation, food lies at the heart of this hotel. The Courtyard, open to all, combines historic charm with a relaxed, laid-back vibe. This cosy, inviting space is somewhere you can enjoy a delicious meal with friends, a romantic dinner or just a casual bite. Menus are inspired by Cornwall’s bountiful larder and it’s clear that a passion for showcasing the best our county has to offer tops the menu here. Fish from nearby waters; beef and pork from Bodmin Moor; fruit and vegetables from the fields and orchards that surround the hotel. Open all day and through into the evening, this is an eatery that has become something of a

neighbourhood hangout, such is its appeal. Grab a bite, catch up with friends, or relax with a drink, the choice is yours.

For more formal dining, The Chapel Restaurant offers clean, refined cookery in a remarkable setting. Aperitifs are best sipped in the hotel’s Champagne Bar – the French 75 made with Tarquin’s Cornish gin, fresh lemon juice, a spot of sugar, and topped with Emile Leclère Brut Champagne is a highlight – before ascending the majestic marble and gold staircase that leads to the restaurant. Its vaulted ceilings and an impressive, everchanging light show casts iridescence across the room, creating an elegant, beautifully lit and comfortable space. As the lights reflect in the immaculate glass and tableware, diners eagerly anticipate a taste of culinary excellence where they are treated to the finest fish, meat and poultry that Cornwall has to offer.

In conversation with Executive Chef Dane Watkins, who has been at the helm since the hotel’s opening in 2020, he tells of The Chapel’s ethos and what diners can expect:

“Fantastic produce sourced from extremely local producers is at the heart of our dishes. My incredible team works closely with suppliers in order to obtain the season’s best produce for the kitchen.” Dane has created a menu that is both modern and sophisticated. Inspired by his Nan, Dane has always had a passion for food: “I always liked watching her cook for us in the summer holidays, she would create delicious food for myself and sister, from what seemed like absolutely nothing. I was in awe of her knife skills.” Transferring this passion to the Chapel’s kitchen, Dane’s signature dish of scallops, coriander velouté and shallot bhaji with a curry emulsion is a favourite with hotel guests and owners alike.

With access to so many wonderful ingredients, Dane cites pork and celeriac as two the ingredients he couldn’t cook without. No surprise then that Kilhallon Farm pork belly graces the list of starters, served with pak choi, daikon and soy. As fifth generation butchers and graziers, James Kittow is a producer and purveyor of the finest Cornish quality meats and just one

example of Dane’s trusted local suppliers. The fantastic possibilities of using local meat and fish has resulted in an innovative menu, with seasonal vegetables perfectly pitched as supporting acts. The dinner menu itself reads like a map of Cornish produce; St Ives smoked salmon, Fowey scallops, Newlyn Cod, each dish perfectly balanced and beautifully presented.

Dane’s team of chefs brings the same quality to whichever of the restaurants you dine in. From a decadent Champagne afternoon tea or a quick open sandwich in The Courtyard after a long drive, to sitting down to an elegant threecourse set menu in The Chapel Restaurant, every ingredient is treated with the care and attention it deserves. The same goes for the attention to detail in terms of welcome and

service, with a front of house team that offers warm hospitality and always has the diners’ enjoyment in mind. Food is complemented by an extensive wine list, chosen to pair with Dane’s seasonal menus, and featuring a broad range of producers and grapes.

Such culinary excellence at the Bodmin Jail Hotel is made possible by the fact that the owner and CEO are self-confessed foodies: “For me, this is an incredible benefit,” says Dane. “It means there are no culinary boundaries, which is a first for me as a chef. It is incredible to be unrestricted in the direction we take the menus and it means there is always something exciting and new happening in our kitchen.”

bodminjailhotel.com

FIRE A feast over

The New Inn on Tresco, Isles of Scilly, is a traditional island inn, offering all-day dining and drinking inspired by the changing seasons of land and sea. In the summer months, the Ox

Grill on the terrace is fired up, cooking over coals to bring to life the flavours and aromas of the finest local produce. This barbecue mackerel recipe by Head Chef, Liam Caves, is a favourite among islanders and visitors.

Whole barbecue Scillonian mackerel with sautéed Tresco potatoes, dressed Tresco leaves, chimichurri and charred lime

SERVES 2

INGREDIENTS:

For the mackerel:

2 whole mackerel, gutted

200g boiled new potatoes

2 knobs of butter

2 limes cut in half

100g washed mixed leaves

METHOD

Add all the chimichurri ingredients into a liquidiser and blend until smooth. Place in the fridge to chill.

Light the barbecue and wait for the coals to go past the white stage – if the coals are too hot, the fish will burn. Place a frying pan on the barbecue.

Lightly crush the potatoes and add to the hot frying pan with a small drizzle of oil. Once the potatoes start to colour, add the butter and season with sea salt and black pepper, then move to a cooler spot on the barbecue to slowly heat through and soak up the butter.

For the chimichurri:

1 red chilli

1 bunch parsley

1 bunch fresh coriander

Juice and zest of one lime

100ml extra virgin rapeseed oil

2 cloves of garlic

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

Generously oil the mackerel and season with sea salt, before placing onto the hot part of the barbecue for 5 minutes, surrounded by halved limes. Try not to move the fish as you need the crust to form on the skin.

Once you have the crispy skin, turn over and leave for a further 4-5 minutes. Once cooked, squeeze the grilled limes over the top and place on a tray to rest.

To plate, lightly dress the washed leaves, place the potatoes on the plate and pour the butter over, place the mackerel on top and dress with chimichurri.

Eventide

WORDS BY CONNOR BLADES John Hersey

Ihave spent the majority of my career within the Adam Handling Restaurant Group, joining back in 2015 as a college student when I first moved to London. I worked for Adam part-time whilst studying, and loved it so much that I decided to leave college to join his apprenticeship programme to become a qualified chef. I was part of the team that launched Adam’s first independent restaurant, The Frog E1, and stayed there for over a year before leaving to gain experience at other restaurants, both in London and abroad. In December 2020, I was invited to re-join the Group and assisted in launching Ugly Butterfly in St Ives in summer 2021. In the same year, I was fortunate to be named ‘UK Young Chef of the Year’ in the prestigious Young Chef Young Waiter Competition and listed in CODE’s 30 under 30 Class of 22/23. Without Adam’s belief in me, I wouldn’t be where I am now.

The Group now runs a Rising Stars programme in Cornwall, in conjunction with Truro and Penwith College. In a bid to give back to the Duchy’s hospitality industry, aspiring young chefs and front of house staff aged between 16 and 18 are given the chance to experience two days working at the Ugly Butterfly as part of their higher education course. Each week, selected students will

work with us for two days. Aspiring chefs join myself and my chef colleagues in the kitchen, while front of house staff are given the same training we give to our own employees. Our kitchen-based students will start on the cold section, learning basic prep and helping with the lunch service. The experience of being in a full working kitchen is invaluable to these young students, as is learning how to work alongside professional chefs, some of whom can be twice their age! On the second day, students will move to the hot side, working on sauces and garnishes and experiencing the preparation of meat and fish and how we process our fresh ingredients.

We use quite a lot of luxury ingredients at the Ugly Butterfly, and being so close to the coast that includes plenty of seafood. The students get to work with scallops, lobster and brill for example, fish that they may otherwise not get to work with, while at the same time experiencing some of our unique preparation methods. The students are taught to respect the ingredients and, in a world where climate change is so important, we teach them to keep it local, thus reducing air miles and our carbon footprint

uglybutterfly.co.uk

truro-penwith.ac.uk

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