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WINTER MOUNTAINEERING
Gear/Routes/Skills
LIVE.BREATHE.OUTDOORS ELLIS BRIGHAM 2018 1
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WELCOME
WELCOME TO WINTER!
IMAGE: CHRIS KEMPSTER
Winter is here, and we have some great gear, advice and routes info for you over the next 20 pages...
ENJOYING PERFECT WINTER CONDITIONS IN GLEN COE
INSIDE...
Welcome to the Ellis Brigham Guide to Winter Mountaineering, and over the next 20-odd pages we’ll
4 Safety First A recap of some of the essential things to consider before you go out in the winter hills
be bringing you plenty of advice on routes, gear and skills, as well as an interview with one of the all-time greats of Scottish winter mountaineering!
6 Hot Products… for Cold Conditions Some of the most innovative and desirable new kit available this season
This year the winter season has started with a bang, and as much as we all want to rush out to enjoy the great
8 25 Scottish Winter Classics A selection of classic Scottish winter routes to take on this winter
conditions, it’s really important to double-check that you have the correct gear, knowledge and skills to attempt your objectives safely. Our expert staff here at
14 Andy Nisbet Q&A An interview with one of the all-time greats of Scottish winter mountaineering
Ellis Brigham are always on hand to advise you about gear, and for skills our partners at Glenmore Lodge (www.glenmorelodge.org.uk) will be very happy to show
16 Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques A look at essential winter skills for mountaineers
you the ropes. Enjoy the season and stay safe!
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SAFETY FIRST
Before you head out into the winter mountains, it’s vital to be prepared with the correct equipment and clothing, and also having read the latest weather and avalanche reports…
SHORTER DAYLIGHT HOURS ARE AN IMPORTANT CONSIDERATION IN WINTER
Petzl e+LITE £24.99
VITAL SAFETY KIT
The e+Lite is an ultra-compact head torch designed for emergency use. With a bright 50 lumen output, it can be used in continuous or strobe mode and switched between white or red light with ease. Always ready to go, it can be stored with its batteries for 10 years.
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Lifesystems Heatshield Bag £13.99
This lightweight, windproof and waterproof bag reflects and retains over 90% of radiant body heat. Made from reusable, tear-resistant material it provides thermal protection for emergency scenarios or forced bivis.
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SKILLS & ADVICE
It can’t be avoided or ignored – mountains get more dangerous in winter. Whether it’s shorter daylight hours, colder and more challenging weather or avalanche risk, your chances of getting in trouble are significantly higher than the rest of the year. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go out into the mountains though, only that you should prepare more in advance of your outing, and be vigilant and prepared to change your plans if necessary once on the mountain. Here are a few things to think about:
CLOTHING
It goes without saying that you need warm and weatherproof clothing for winter mountaineering, but things to think about especially includes hands and feet – you should take several pairs of gloves so that wet ones can be swapped over, and make sure you have adequate head and face protection. Goggles can be absolutely essential in driving snow, while boots need to keep your feet warm when waiting at belays. A synthetic belay-style jacket is also a must.
EQUIPMENT
If ski mountaineering, do not leave home without the three essentials – probe, shovel and transceiver (and put new batteries in if necessary) – and also make sure you know how to use them (enrol on a course if you don’t). A decent-sized backpack (40L+) will be necessary,
Lifesystems Hurricane Whistle £5.50 At 122dB this is Lifesystems’ loudest whistle. Comes with lanyard and attachment clip.
the temperature fluctuations? The information on the weather, combined with the avalanche bulletin, should give a clear indication of the most hazardous slopes to avoid. If the research shows that north-facing slopes are currently high risk, then plan a route to avoid those slopes.
TESTING THE SNOW PACK FOR SIGNS OF WEAK LAYERS
OTHER FACTORS
and make sure you have a rucksack liner or drybag to keep the contents dry. Trekking poles can be really useful for walk-ins and walkouts in deep snow, while you should choose axes and crampons appropriate to the level of routes you are doing. Always carry a survival shelter within your group and don’t scrimp on food, snacks and drinks.
altitudes, along with a chart of avalanche probability. They have text with key weather factors such as wind direction and strength, and also weather and mountain conditions as observed by the forecaster. SAIS also now produce the ‘Be Avalanche Aware’ app for iOS (and shortly Android) and this is a must for all winter mountaineers.
AVALANCHE REPORT
WEATHER FORECAST
Avalanche reports are produced daily by the Scottish Avalanche Information Service - www. sais.gov.uk. Forecasters carry out evaluations of the snowpack for part of the day, then return to base where they combine their observations with a Met Office weather forecast to construct an avalanche report for their region. Avalanche reports are easy to interpret; they have a compass rose showing hazard distribution and
The SAIS reports cover most of the things you need to know including the weather forecast, but it’s still worth looking at the current weather forecast and for the previous few days. Has there been significant snowfall in the previous days? (Remember it doesn’t require snow falling to create avalanche conditions!) What was the wind direction and strength over the previous days (snow is moved by wind above 15mph)? What were
Ortovox Zoom+ Avalanche Rescue Set £209.99
Garmin GPS 64s Mapping Bundle £399.99
This is a rugged handheld GPS with advanced sensors and mapping capabilities. Durable and water resistant, it comes with a barometric altimeter and a 3-axis compass making it ideal for tackling challenging terrain.
This safety set includes a Zoom+ transceiver, Alu 240 Probe, Badger Shovel and a Safety Academy Guide Book which is full of essential backcountry safety information.
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Other things to remember include: leaving details of your route/day out with someone in case there’s an emergency; taking a charged mobile phone with you with emergency numbers programmed in; remembering that there are shorter daylight hours in winter and planning your day accordingly; and remembering the need for additional kit you need for winter and packing it!
COURSES
Whether you need to learn how to use crampons and ice axes, how to read avalanche reports and plan a route away from terrain traps, learn advanced techniques to climb gullies and faces or tune up on winter navigation, then attending a course with professional mountaineering instructors is the absolute best way to learn. Glenmore Lodge offer a wide range of winter courses, from absolute beginners to advanced climbing sessions, both around their home in the Cairngorms and elsewhere in the Highlands. You can see what they have to offer by logging onto www. glenmorelodge.org.uk
Lifesystems 15 Hour Light Sticks £3.99 Use these light sticks for emergency signalling. They will last for up to 15 hours, come in two colours and are supplied with individual lanyards for easy attachment.
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HOT PRODUCTS FOR COLD CONDITIONS We round up some of the highlights of this season’s new clothing and gear for winter mountaineers…
La Sportiva G5 £474.99 An exceptional boot for mountaineering at altitude, the G5 gives performance you can rely on. Combining the thermal insulating characteristics of a double boot with the lightness and low volume of a single boot, it’s well suited to winter mountaineering.
Suunto Spartan Sport HR Baro £439.99
The new Spartan Sport Wrist HR Baro has been designed for use in the mountains. Its robust design is backed up with a feature set tailored to meet the demands of outdoor and training activities in the vertical world.
Mountain Equipment Men’s Tupilak GTX Pro Jacket £349.99
A force to be reckoned with in the mountains, the Tupilak jacket offers tough weather protection in a pared-down package. Super robust and with an alpine fit, it’s well suited to climbers and mountaineers who need a jacket that works as hard as they do.
Scarpa Marmolada Pro OD £224.99
Compatible with flexible strap-on crampons for winter walks, the Marmolada Pro offers comfort, stability and wet-weather protection in a light yet durable design. A host of Scarpa technologies, including Sock-Fit XT, Flex Point System and Heel Tension System combine to create a snug, supportive boot that still offers freedom of movement and excels on steep terrain. Proven Vibram rubber and pronounced lugs grip on difficult terrain while the forefoot climbing zone comes into its own on scrambles and via ferrata routes.
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TOP GEAR
GoPro Hero6 Black £399.99
Introducing the new HERO6 Black: the most powerful GoPro camera ever. Featuring a new GP1 chip the HERO6 delivers GoPro’s best-ever image quality and next level video stabilisation - with 4K60 and 1080p240 video giving twice the performance of the Hero5 Black.
Rab Women’s Electron Jacket £229.99
Petzl Sarken Leverlock Universal £159.99
These technical mountaineering crampons are made from tempered steel, have a slim yet robust frame and feature T-shape front points for reliable performance in a range of conditions. The Sarken can give excellent penetration of hard ice, comfort on mixed terrain and solid purchase in snow alike.
An excellent all-rounder, the Electron jacket will take you through winter and beyond. 800 fill hydrophobic down and a Pertex Quantum Pro outer give reliable warmth and water resistant performance while the insulated helmet compatible hood and hand warmer pockets provide a snug refuge from the cold.
Petzl Actik Core £49.99
Petzl’s Actik Core makes an outstanding choice for outdoor activities. 350 lumens, a mixed beam and multiple lighting modes mean it’ll take you from the crag to the campsite with ease. For added versatility, the red light helps preserve night vision and can be put onto a strobe setting for emergency use. A Petzl Hybrid head torch, it is supplied with CORE - a battery that can be recharged via USB, but it can also be used with standard batteries without the need for an adapter.
Black Diamond Punisher Glove £84.99
Grivel Tech Machine £199.99
The Tech Machine was designed with top end ice, mixed and dry tooling challenges in mind. Stable hooking and a steady swing are ensured by the radically bent shaft and advanced handle shape.
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Whether an ice climbing purist or pushing into mixed terrain, the Punisher gloves will keep your hands warm, ready and protected for that next move. Designed for milder temperatures, the BDry membrane is 100% waterproof while a soft fleece lining gives comfortable warmth.
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25 SCOTTISH WINTER CLASSICS With the help of our friends at Glenmore Lodge, we’ve put together a list of 25 easier-grade Scottish winter routes that every mountaineer should tick off!
Winter is a special time in the mountains and nowhere is this truer than in Scotland, which with the arrival of snow becomes a winter playground for walkers and mountaineers to enjoy. In this article, we have teamed up with the Scottish National Outdoor Training Centre, Glenmore Lodge, to choose 25 classic winter routes with something for everyone – mostly grade I to III, but with a few walks and grade IVs thrown in for good measure. There are routes included that would be on every mountaineer’s wish list, but some that may surprise you too. They all require the skills of travelling through the mountains in winter, but most also require the technical skills of ice and mixed climbing. Winter mountaineering is extremely rewarding, but every winter the unprepared get caught out, so take care and if in doubt go with someone more experienced. Before we get started, let’s have a quick recap on winter grades, courtesy of the BMC.
WINTER GRADES
often in good condition. It is a long (24km) arduous route (4,000m height gain) with constant grade I terrain, lots of grade II and plenty of grade III steps.
individual crux pitches are also graded. For example, Point Five Gully at V,5 is a benchmark V, while a well protected hard mixed climb might be graded V,7. Zero Gully is less technical but serious so gets V,4.
SUNSHINE GULLY, BEINN UDLAIDH
TRAVERSE OF THE COBBLER, ARROCHAR ALPS
Meall Garbh arête is varied and interesting, wandering over several knobbly summits, in a grand position overlooking Loch Tay. A good route for the less experienced winter mountaineer, but if there is lots of snow and poor visibility, navigation may be difficult.
GRADE III
This easily accessible, low level, north-facing cliff at Glen Orchy has a fine selection of ice routes. In summer, lots of water flows over the cliff edge and, after a prolonged freeze, impressive 100m ice flows are created. Sunshine Gully is the left trending ramp on the right side of the main cliff. Another great route there is Quartzvein Scoop, grade IV.
GRADE II/III
A strikingly quirky low level trio of peaks that requires a good period of freeze/thaw to be in condition. The winter traverse links all three peaks in exposed positions with a few stiffer rock sections, turfy mixed climbing and even an abseil from the south peak.
THE CUILLIN RIDGE, SKYE
TARMACHAN RIDGE, MEALL NAN TARMACHAN
GRADE IV
Probably the most soughtafter prize in the UK for the competent winter mountaineer, but its proximity to the sea means it is not
EASY
In good conditions the classic Tarmachan ridge with the short lived but narrow
CENTRAL GULLY, BEN LUI GRADE I
The classic mountain of the Southern Highlands, rising high over its immediate neighbours. Central Gully is alpine in stature and is obligatory for all winter mountaineers. The gully starts narrow, but soon widens out. Take care with avalanche conditions and cornices. A descent down the ENE ridge makes a complete day out.
TRAVERSE OF BEN STARAV, GLEN ETIVE GRADE I
This excellent route takes you on a delightful, airy circuit culminating in the exposed rocky arête between Ben Starav and Stob Coire Dheirg. For the fit, or early starters, the day could be extended by taking in Glas Bheinn Mhor.
CARN MOR DEARG ARÊTE, BEN NEVIS
GRADE I: The easiest climbs.
Straightforward snow slopes up to 50 degrees, or simple scrambles on snowed up rock. One ice axe is enough. GRADE II: Steeper sections with ice, but still normally less than vertical. Mostly climbable with one axe, but some may require two. GRADES III+: Increasingly long sections of steep climbing and commitment. Two axes are necessary. Above III,
AONACH EAGACH, GLENCOE GRADE II
This is arguably mainland Scotland’s finest grade II winter ridge traverse of alpine proportions. Starting
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HEADING FOR THE SUMMIT OF STOB COIRE SGREAMHACH
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at the Am Bodach end, it is narrow in places with many spikes and notches, possibly requiring an abseil. It is a committing outing with few escape routes and speed is of the essence; finishing in the dark is all too frequent.
25 SCOTTISH WINTER CLASSICS
CURVED RIDGE, BUACHAILLE ETIVE MÒR
BEN NEVIS VIA CMD ARÊTE
GRADE II/III
Sheltered from south westerlies, it is one of the finest ‘alpine style’ routes in Glencoe. It has the feel of a climb, with short tricky steps for the grade and most people will be glad to have two axes. The scenery alongside the steep and imposing Rannoch Wall is outstanding. Take care on the descent in avalanche conditions.
SRON NA LAIRIG, STOB COIRE SGREAMHACH GRADE II
This fabulous, long and remote route is great for those starting out on their winter careers. Simple rock steps and short snow pitches lead to a final narrow ridge. It can be climbed as an end in itself or as an entertaining mountaineer’s access route to the Bidean nam Bian range.
DORSAL ARÊTE, STOB COIRE NAN LOCHAN GRADE II
II ridge on Ben Nevis, with magnificent situations. It is easy for the grade, but a big day out with challenging route finding. It needs sound judgement as it is accessed via the potentially avalancheprone Number 5 Gully. A descent via the CMD Arête gives the full-value Ben Nevis experience.
GRADE I
ANDY CHARLTON LEADING GREEN GULLY, BEN NEVIS
interspersed with longer runouts on steep snow which can make it intimidating. It is much harder in lean conditions and easier when banked out! Take care with the cornices.
rock and ice scenery. It is mainly a steep snow slope with the occasional short ice pitch, but early in the season it can give an ice pitch of III. The cornices can sometimes be large and are best avoided to the left.
NUMBER 2 GULLY, BEN NEVIS
LEDGE ROUTE, BEN NEVIS
GRADE II
The best ‘easy’ gully on Ben Nevis, passing through great
GRADE II
Probably the finest grade
TYPICALLY ‘SCOTTISH’ CONDITIONS IN GLEN NEVIS
Combined with an ascent of Ben Nevis, this graceful curving ridge connecting two 4,000 foot mountains is one of grandest walks in the UK. Though fairly straightforward, it is long and exposed, and deep snow or high wind will make it feel challenging. The summit plateau of Ben Nevis is a serious place, and good navigation skills are essential.
GOLDEN OLDIE, WEST FACE OF AONACH MOR GRADE II
This is the best-defined and finest of the ‘summit ribs’ on the west face of Aonach Mor. It has a feeling of solitude, remoteness and length even though it’s just around the corner from the Nevis ski centre. It’s a good option when strong westerlies have loaded east- facing slopes with snow.
CREAG MEAGAIDH CIRCUIT
A short, exciting route with the difficulties on a superb knife-edge ridge close to the top, which can be avoided by a short traverse. To continue to Bidean nam Bian, descend the south ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan until a col is reached and the steepish ascent to Bidean nam Bian.
EASY
Creag Meagaidh is a magnificent massif, a bare plateau fringed by the grandest cliffs in Scotland. This circuit takes in three Munros – Carn Liath, Stob Poite Coire Ardair and Creag Meagaidh. The summit plateau is Cairngorm-like and encircled by steep treacherous ground. Creag Meagaidh should be treated with respect, so ensure your map and compass skills are sharp!
SC GULLY, STOB COIRE NAN LOCHAN GRADE III
A classic gully climb through impressive rock scenery. Short ice pitches are
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TOP ROUTES
HAVING FUN IN THE NORTHERN CORRIES, IN THE CAIRNGORMS
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RAEBURN’S GULLY, CREAG MEAGAIDH GRADE I
Coire Ardair is possibly the most impressive mountain scenery in Scotland. First climbed by Harold Raeburn, one of the great pioneers of Scottish mountaineering, Raeburn’s Gully is a deep, diagonal slash through the cliffs behind the Lochan. It is a long gully climb that ends satisfyingly on the summit plateau of Creag Meagaidh.
25 SCOTTISH WINTER CLASSICS
THE TRAVERSE OF A’CHIOCH, BEINN BHAN
EASY
FIACAILL RIDGE, STOB COIRE AN T-SNEACHDA GRADE II
Arguably the best mountaineering route in the Cairngorms and a good choice in high avalanche conditions. The technical difficulties are short lived, but the views into Sneachda and Lochan are stunning. The
GRADE II
A huge cleft in the buttress so big that when looking outwards, its walls form a giant picture frame around the distant hills. It finishes on the fine pedestal-like summit of Sàil Mhòr, then a sweeping airy saddle, before connecting to Beinn Eighe’s main ridge by way of a short exposed scramble.
CAIRNGORM CIRCUIT VIA NORTH RIDGE A quieter and less-travelled way to the summit of Cairngorm in winter. Enjoy the peace and quiet over Sron an Aonaich before joining the Ptarmigan ski tow and complete the final ascent. A circuit over Cairn Lochan and down its north ridge makes a complete day out.
MORRISON’S GULLY, BEINN EIGHE
GRADE II
DESCENDING AFTER A PERFECT WINTER’S DAY
TRAVERSE OF LIATHACH
route finishes on the plateau giving a choice of routes back to the car park.
GRADE II
If there could be only one Scottish mountain, this is it. The east-west traverse is sensational, with continuously interesting walking and spectacular scenery; the Fasarinen Pinnacles are the hardest part. It is also home to some fantastic easy winter gullies and scrambles, which can be combined with the classic east-west traverse.
THE RUNNEL, STOB COIRE AN T-SNEACHDA GRADE II
A popular grade II with some straightforward climbing up steep snow before the crux, a narrow chimney that leads into an exit bowl of snow. There are generally good belays and rock runners.
TOPPING OUT ON THE CAIRNGORM PLATEAU
One of the great mountains of the northwest and another contender for the best grade II in Scotland. Easy as far as A’Chioch, then an exposed ridge above the depths of Coire na Poite and Coire na Feola leads to the main mountain where the challenge increases to give a taster of the harder grades to be found here.
THE NORTH RIDGE OF AONACH AIR CRITH GRADE I
The mountain name translates as ‘ridge of trembling’, which aptly describes this exposed alpine-like circuit. The ridge starts off broad, but soon narrows and has many rocky steps before easier-angled snow slopes lead to the summit.
FORCAN RIDGE, THE SADDLE GRADE I/II
A long and remote classic alpine-style ridge traverse. It has scrambling, traversing and abseiling. Staying on the crest pushes it into grade II ground, but the crux is short with excellent hand holds. A good freeze/thaw will reduce damage to the turf and avoid wading through long sections of deep snow.
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DISCOVER WINTER Discover, learn and experience the winter mountains with Scotland’s National Outdoor Training Centre. Glenmore Lodge instructors are kept warm and dry thanks to The North Face Summit Series Range
Ellis Brigham is the official retail partner of Glenmore Lodge
We run a wide range of winter courses and qualifications, including Winter Skills, winter navigation, winter mountaineering, winter climbing
www.glenmorelodge.org.uk
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IMAGE: SANDY ALLAN
THE WINTER KING
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INTERVIEW
His first winter ascents number almost 1000, and he literally wrote the guidebook on winter climbing in Scotland – we talk to legendary climber Andy Nisbet on how he caught the bug and what has made him so successful in this arena... When did you first get the winter bug and what sort of routes were you climbing? I hillwalked regularly when I was at school, Munro bagging basically, but we didn’t go out in winter so didn’t even know how to ice axe brake. Climbing didn’t start until I finished the Munros and the Inaccessible Pinnacle (second last Munro, left as long as possible!) gave me the bug. In Aberdeen anyway, all the climbers did both seasons, so we just got stuck into winter climbing (but we did a Glenmore Lodge course first, which with all the subsidies cost us £3 full board in 1973). We started at Grade II and worked our way up the grades quite quickly. Partly because we were the almost the first climbers to be taught front pointing from scratch and never were held back by step cutting. But also because we were very hill fit and relaxed about winter hills. I once taught two lads; one rock climbed well but hadn’t been out in winter. The other had done all the Munros but had never tied on to a rope. The hillwalker winter climbed better. What’s your strategy for hunting down new lines? Lots of homework! Going to cliffs in the summer, taking photographs, and then studying them for new lines. Digital photos and computer screens have made life easier. In the early days, the trips were for rock climbing so I have been accused of just doing winter ascents of summer routes. But more recently, I often go to cliffs just to check them out for potential winter lines. How do you come up with names for all of those new routes? I don’t know how I managed in the past without Google (I’m slightly dyslexic). So actually my partners often came up with the names. Now I can think of various words which highlight the route (trying not to make it too personal which would be boring for everyone else) and just submit various combinations until I find one which clicks. Sometimes there’s a theme on the cliff, or I can link to the hill or cliff name. You’re a rock climber too, but what is it about you – physically and/or mentally – that makes you so successful in winter? I’ve never been a good rock climber, although anyone who tries hard can achieve a fair amount, but winter was the opposite. I took to it naturally. It’s hard to analyse why, but my body type is good for stamina and bad for gymnastic movement. And I’m quite solidly built, so I don’t get cold but there’s a bit too much weight for hard rock climbing. My friends will now blame caramel shortbread but I say it’s crucial for success. Plus a lot of winter climbing is a refusal to give up. And I’m cautious enough to not get myself into danger (that is also debatable after a few epics over the years). How big a part has the advances in equipment over the years helped in the development of winter climbing? In some ways, a huge amount. In other ways, you still need to get out and do it, with all the effort, discomfort and ultimately huge satisfaction. I think it’s made more difference to the higher grades, especially steeper rocky mixed. The old axes were useless for hooking and only good for cracks, whereas now most rock routes will go (except friction slabs). And water ice climbing is certainly easier. But wading up a lower grade ridge or gully in not very good weather is exactly the same (and it’s great!). What do you think about when deciding where to go climbing on a Scottish winter day? For me, it’s got to be a new route. And a good line. And I’m not as
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young as I was. And I’m still recovering from a summer injury so grade III is about my current limit. And not too far from the road. You might think it’s hard, but it’s not, although the choice of crags is limited. But I’ve done about 10 new routes so far this winter, most between 300 and 600m long. But also I’m a fanatical watcher of weather forecasts and keep a keen eye on what conditions are likely to be, since my cliffs are not the popular high altitude places. Do you have any tricks you have with gear or clothing to make life easier on winter days out? Aberdonians hate buying new anything, so my clothes last till they fall apart. Although I’m hugely smarter now that Mountain Equipment sponsor me with clothing. But the answer is just to wear lots, and be flexible because it’s nearly as easy to get too hot. Some folk get really cold (especially small women) and some don’t (like me), so clothing is very personal. It depends if you’re climbing and standing around on belays, or mountaineering and always moving. Gloves make a huge difference, the thinner the better for climbing, but not everyone can get away with thin gloves. I carry three pairs, thick for walking in, thin for leading the technical pitches, and middling for easier pitches, belaying and seconding. Have you seen an increase in climbers in recent years, and if so, why do you think that is? I think it’s increased a little, but it’s one of those slow increases you don’t really notice. I would say mountain rock climbing has decreased, because of time pressure on the average person. You can go to a crag (or the climbing wall) and have lots of time for the rest of the day. I think this factor has reduced winter climbing but the presence of lots of great pictures on-line of wonderful winter routes and crags has more than overcome this. How has the season been so far, and do you have any predictions for the rest of the season? It’s been very good so far, but to an extent that’s personal because it’s been cold enough to freeze the crags I like. And it’s looking promising until mid February (just looking at the jetstream). Maybe even very cold if the Scandi High forms well (it’s over Siberia at present which is a bit far away). Will the jetstream stay south subsequently? I’ll be delighted if it does. What’s the best advice you can give to anyone wanting to get into winter mountaineering? Do some winter hillwalking. Then steeper walks. Then you’ll realise that actually you have winter mountaineered and it isn’t scary any more. Which of your winter routes are you the most proud of, and can you pick several that you enjoy climbing now? Proudness is split between Vertigo Wall on Creag an Dubh Loch (FWA in 1977) and The Needle on Shelter Stone Crag (FWA in 1985). Vertigo Wall was a breakthrough for me, succeeding on something which was a “last great problem”. We didn’t climb it very well (aid and a bivouac) but we got up. The Needle was genuinely hard for the time, even elsewhere in the world. What do I enjoy now? It has to be new so there’s no answer. Early season, I enjoy rocky routes in Coire an Sneachda – Fingers Ridge is a particular favourite. And Hidden Chimney. From guiding days, I think East and West Buttresses on Beinn Eighe are brilliant. George on Liathach is great too. And the Forcan Ridge on The Saddle.
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ESSENTIAL SKILLS FOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERS Proper use of ice axe and crampons are the fundamental skills all winter mountaineers need to learn, so we’ve teamed up with Mountaineering Instructor Pete Hill to demonstrate the key techniques needed for using these key pieces of gear... There are a whole range of skills needed to become a proficient winter mountaineer, but first on the list of skills to learn is how to walk and climb in crampons, and how to use your ice axe. In this article we’ll cover the basic ways in which both of these essential items of equipment are used.
USING CRAMPONS
FLAT-FOOTING
clearance between points and boot. Zigzagging up the slope is the best way to progress, changing direction after a few steps. Make sure your feet are not getting too close together as your confidence grows. Descent on moderate ground can also be done by flat-footing. Face directly down the hill and flex your ankles, bending your knees as required in order to get all of the downward-facing points in contact with the snow at the same time. Note that this is different to the heel-plunge steps that we use when kicking steps without crampons, and if you lead with your heel on hard ice you have a real chance of skating off down the hill. Keeping all of the points in contact will be far more secure. It’s worth taking the time to practise flat-footing before moving onto other techniques as it helps you build confidence in the level of grip you can expect on different types of snow and ice.
Walking on a gently sloping section of ground is a basic movement, and should be practised first. Known as flat-footing, maximum security will be found with all of the downwards-facing points being in contact with the snow or ice, and you should concentrate on getting this right from the beginning. Try to make the walking movement as natural as possible, so lift each foot and place it in front of and slightly to the side of the other. Be constantly aware of the need to maintain a gap between the points of your crampon and your other foot, as it is very easy to have your feet close together and snag a point. You will have to flex your ankles as the ground gets a bit steeper, and you will probably need to turn your feet across the slope a bit in order to get all of the points in. Lift your feet high so that you can cross them over each other and maintain a safe
Walking in crampons is a fundamental skill and vital for safe and successful movement in the winter hills and mountains. Having a ‘lazy’ technique is a sure way to trip over at some stage, perhaps with dire consequences. Ideally you need to spend a decent
amount of time practising your technique in a controlled situation before progressing on to steeper and more technical terrain. Wearing a helmet is a good precaution when learning, as is using gloves. However, you may decide to put your ice axe to one side for the initial steps, as this can cause you
to alter your balance and not be as smooth when walking. Obviously, the axe is essential at any other time, and you will probably introduce it into your session as soon as you are feeling more confident, or when moving up a slope where a slip could cause you to slide any distance.
FLAT-FOOTING IN DESCENT
KEEP YOUR FEET FLAT ON THE SNOW FOR MAXIMUM GRIP
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Image: Alun Richardson
SKILLS & ADVICE
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ripples and old axe or crampon placements, to give the crampon more purchase and the leg muscles a rest, as this technique is quite tiring. On long sections of steep ground, you may find it useful to cut a resting step at intervals, in order to give your legs a breather. This is true of any crampon technique, as a few moments on a flat ledge will do a great deal to help your leg muscles to recover. Frontpointing is eminently suitable for climbing down, and once again the boot soles should be kept horizontal when placed.
TRAVERSING
Traversing a slope needs to be practised, and this can be done by either flat-footing or front-pointing. If the ground is fairly easy-angled, face across the slope and flex your ankles so that you are flat-footing. Take care to maintain a good gap between your feet, remembering that the up-slope foot only has a small gap to pass through, so keep it high. If you need to traverse steep ground it may be necessary to crab-crawl. Face in to the slope using your front points, and bring one foot to the other. Don’t cross your legs, as this will greatly increase the chance of you catching a crampon point. When you do use the axe, be careful that it does not tempt you to lean too far forwards out of balance. Maintain an upright posture wherever possible and move naturally. If placing it above an ice bulge, make sure that you keep your soles horizontal
USING FRONT POINTS ON STEEP GROUND
AMERICAN TECHNIQUE
On slightly steeper slopes, we can introduce a variation in the way that we walk. Known as the American technique, it is a very logical method of ascent. One foot is placed into the snow using the front points, the other is placed in the flat-foot position. This foot may need to be turned out to the side at an angle of up to 45 degrees, depending upon the gradient of the slope, but it is important that all downward points are in contact. Using this technique, you can go straight up the slope if need be, or at any angle. Pure front-pointing is quite tiring on the calf muscles, so when the leg that is frontpointing starts to get weary, simply swap over so that the flat-foot side is now frontpointing, and the front-pointing foot is now placed flat. This
method is only really suitable for going up, and is very difficult to use in descent.
FRONT-POINTING
When the ground becomes very steep, front-pointing will be required. This uses the front two, four or six points of each crampon in turn, depending on the hardness of the snow or ice. The crampon is placed on to the snow or ice with the sole of the boot horizontal, and it is important that you keep it so once the points have been placed. If you drop your heel, the frontpoints will be levered out of the placement by the next set of points. If you raise the heel, the points could be dislodged because of the toe of the boot pushing against the surface, causing them to be levered out. Make the most of any irregularities on the surface of the snow or ice, such as
and don’t lean too far forward, otherwise your crampons will come out.
BALLING UP
One hazard that is difficult to remedy satisfactorily is balling up. This occurs when the snow is moist, such as when there is a slight thaw in progress. It then builds up between the points of your crampons into a stilt that stops any of the points from touching the snow, consequently leading to loss of traction and possibly a slip. Many crampons are supplied with anti-balling plates which go some way to prevent the snow sticking in the first place. If there is still a problem, a sharp tap on the side of your boot with the axe should be enough to dislodge the balling. In very poor conditions, this tapping will have to be done at every step.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
If you need to rest or stop for any reason, don’t be tempted to just sit on the snow. You will immediately shoot off down the slope, possibly going head over heels and out of control. If you need to stop, cut yourself a good sized ledge to sit in, or – better still – make your way across to a suitable boulder and sit on that. Once you have negotiated your slope, make sure that you are well away from the edge before removing your crampons. It is very easy to take them off too early, with the consequence that you slip back down to where you started.
USING THE AMERICAN TECHNIQUE
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SKILLS & ADVICE
USING YOUR ICE AXE
For winter mountaineers, selfarrest is a fundamental skill as any slip or trip in this terrain could result in you sliding at an increasing rate down the slope, potentially with fatal consequences, and having the knowledge of how to stop by using an ice axe is paramount. Holding the axe correctly is very important, as this will be the key to getting all of the subsequent techniques correct. When carrying it, hold it with the adze facing forwards. This means that it is in the right position for bringing up into the self-arrest stance. Your thumb and forefinger should be around the adze, middle finger in line with the shaft and the other two around the pick. Hold the axe loosely but securely, as gripping it too tightly will make subsequent techniques tricky to perform.
THE SELF-BELAY
It is very important that any slip does not become a slide. If it does, this makes it very difficult to arrest, with an increased chance of losing control during acceleration. Your first line of defence is known as a selfbelay, and is an essential skill to learn. When walking on any slope, it is important that the axe is always carried on the uphill side of your body. This is so that it can be effectively placed for support, and also allows the self-belay to be used if needed. The axe spike is placed firmly into the snow each time it is moved forwards, and the shaft kept vertical. If your feet slip, your downslope hand is quickly placed on to the axe shaft at the point where it meets the snow surface. It is important that the hand is kept as low as possible as this reduces any leverage. The hand holding the head of the axe can be pushed uphill slightly to counter any chance of the axe shaft pulling out. With your feet having slipped away from under you, you will now end up in a lying position suspended by the axe, hopefully with it holding you in place. Kicking a hole in the snow with your feet will help you to get upright again. If you are walking on easyangled terrain, where the shaft
of the axe will not be in contact with the snow at each step, a self-belay can still be carried out. Should your feet slip, bring the downhill hand up and grip the axe shaft a short distance above the spike. As you go down, ram the axe vertically into the snow, so that you end up in the standard self-belay position. Should your attempt at self-belay fail for some reason and the shaft pull out through the snow, you should get yourself into a suitable position to perform a self-arrest.
PREPARATION FOR A HEAD-FIRST SELF-ARREST
SELF-ARREST
If you start sliding on the snow, you need to have practised a method of stopping yourself. There are a variety of positions from which an arrest can be effected, and these will include on your front with head upslope, a sitting position, head first face down and head first face up. There are, of course, many ways to fall, but those mentioned above are the best to know, with any variation being solvable through a bit of forethought and cunning rehearsal. When setting out to practise self-arrest, the area that you are going to use must be carefully selected. It should be a concave slope that allows a safe run-out in the event of you making a mistake when trying to stop, be free from boulders, and be steep enough to allow a slide to be made but not so steep as to be terrifying. An ideal surface for practising on will be a couple of centimetres of fresh snow on a base of older hard snow.Helmets should be worn at all times. Crampons should never be worn when practising slides of any type. Should a crampon point catch in the snow, severe trauma to the ankle or leg can occur. To avoid slipping around too much when getting organised, some of the starting positions of the techniques will be best gained by digging a pit in the snow. Consider subsequent users of the slope, and fill in any holes at the end of the session. Waterproofs should be worn, as should gloves, as your hands will be in frequent moving contact with the snow.
THE CORRECT WALKING POSITION
THE CORRECT WAY TO HOLD AN ICE AXE
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you become a little slicker at each technique, try performing them with a rucksack on,as this will obviously make a difference to how each method feels. For the sake of the following descriptions, we will assume that the axe is being held in your left hand, although it is essential to be equally proficient at arrest skills with both hands. Remember the importance of the self-belay, where the axe will alternate between the left and right hand, as it will always be on your upslope side.
shoulders lowered. This allows a good deal of body weight to be transferred on to the axe head, very important when sliding on hard snow at speed. Once you are happy with the basic position, move yourself a little way up the slope and try it with some movement. Slide a short distance and then place the axe pick into the snow, firmly but without jabbing it in, maintaining the correct posture until you stop. Slowly increase the speed and distance that you slide as your confidence builds. It is really helpful to have a companion around at this stage, as they will be able to correct you on anything that is not quite right, such as your feet getting near the ground when stopping.
THE CORRECT POSITION ONCE A SELF-BELAY HAS BEEN CARRIED OUT
THE BASIC POSITION
The basic position, that of face down and head uphill, is important, as it is the position into which all of the other variations will end up. Getting this right is key to effective arrest, and time should be taken to get it right. Practise getting the axe into the correct position across your body whilst still standing. Bringing it up from the walking position, allow your hand to rotate on the axe head so that your hand ends up pulling down on the axe head. The adze should now slot into the recess under your collarbone, with the shaft of the axe running across your chest to the opposite side hip. Your right hand must cover the spike, which ensures that it does not dig into the snow, or indeed into you! Both elbows need to be tucked in to the side of your body, and make sure that you look away from the head of the axe. This is important, as it not only prevents injury to your face if the axe catches on a section of hard ice or a rock, but it also directs the weight correctly on to the shoulder over the axe. Now lie face down on the snow in a flat area. Raise your feet into the air to ensure that crampon points (which you are not wearing during practice of course), cannot dig into the snow and flick you over backwards, or cause other injuries. Your knees must be apart, around one and a half times shoulder width; this is to ensure stability when sliding, as you will probably not be going in a straight line. Your backside and stomach must be raised slightly, and chest and
THE SITTING ARREST
When you are happy that you can arrest efficiently in this basic position, it is time to introduce a variation. Should you slip whilst walking downhill facing out, a slide in a sitting position will occur. For this, the axe is held in the usual manner, across the body and into the shoulder. You will need to turn over so that you are face down on the slope, and to achieve this it is essential that you roll on to your chest by turning your body towards the head of the axe. For instance, if the axe head is held in the left hand, you would roll over to the left-hand side, completely over on to your front and into the basic braking position. It is important that the axe stays as part of your body. Don’t be tempted to dig the axe into the snow and then jump on it, as it will be snatched out of your hands if you are travelling at any speed. Remember to keep your head clear of the adze as the axe goes into the snow, as the pick touches the snow surface before your body has finished rotating. Also, bend your knees slightly as you rotate, as this has the effect of keeping your feet away from the snow, important when wearing crampons in a real situation.
THE AXE BEING HELD ACROSS THE BODY, AS IF SEEN FROM UNDERNEATH
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ARRESTING HEAD FIRST FACE DOWN
It is possible that you could trip over your crampons on the way
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down a mountain, and thus end up sliding head first face down. The starting position to practise this is far easier to get into if a slot is cut across the slope for your boots to hook in to, and this will allow you to get in to the ready position without immediately sliding away. Lie face down on the slope with your head downhill, feet hooked into the slot. Your axe is held exactly the same way as for all the other techniques, one hand on the head, the other on the spike. If the axe head is in your left hand, the pick is placed into the snow as far out to the left as possible, in line with your shoulders. Look across at the axe, and not down the slope, as this will help the start of the turn. How you place the pick into the snow is important, as if it is jabbed in it could be snatched out of your hands, but if it is not placed firmly enough then the rotation needed for the arrest to happen will not be performed efficiently. Take your feet out from the slot and allow yourself to slide down the slope. Once you are sliding a little, place the axe into the snow out to the side and your feet will swing round to the right. Keep the knees very slightly bent once this manoeuvre starts, as it helps to keep your feet clear of the surface. When you are halfway round, approximately across the slope, lift your axe out. The momentum created should keep you rotating, and as you do so arch your back, place the axe into the shoulder and brake as normal. It is very important that you remove the axe from the snow and divide this technique into two parts, the rotation and the arrest. If you leave the axe in the snow until you have fully rotated the right way up, it will be impossible to apply the correct amount of body weight to it. It would also be impossible to pull your body weight upslope on to the axe whilst sliding down. Make sure that you do place the axe well out to the side in line with your shoulders. It is very tempting to place it in front of your body but that means that not only will the rotation be inefficient, but that you may run over the sharp adze with painful consequences.
ARRESTING HEAD FIRST UPSIDE DOWN
Should you really manage to fall down in a complicated manner, you may end up head first face up, sliding on your back! To practise this, first make your slot from the previous slide into more of a seat, as this will hold you whilst you get into the correct position. Now sit on it and run your feet round so that they are upslope and you are lying on your back. Pull the hood of your jacket up and over your helmet before starting, as it may get damaged or just slow you down. The axe is held as normal, one hand on the head, the other covering the spike. Assuming that you are still holding the axe in your left hand, it is placed out in the snow on the left-hand side in line with your hips, with your left arm straight and the pick about 50cm out, and your right hand somewhere near your left hip. Let yourself slide and place the pick in the snow as before, not too fast, not too slow. Doing this creates a pivot, and your legs will swing round to the right. As they swing round, you must rotate what will now be your downslope hip, in this case the right one, upslope, in other words you are performing a sit-up towards the head of the axe. Keep your feet together and have your knees slightly bent, as this helps to keep your boots clear of the snow surface. What you are doing here is pivoting your body through 180 degrees, with your head ending upslope and you being on your front. As your body rotates, take the axe out of the snow, and arrest in the normal manner. Once again, it is important that you remove the axe between manoeuvres and the whole process is separated into two parts, the pivot and the arrest. A common mistake is for you to end up rotating the wrong way when pivoting, thus performing a log roll down the slope. This is very dangerous, as you will be rolling over the business end of the axe!
THE BODY POSITION ON THE SNOW
THE BODY POSITION WHEN STARTING TO ROTATE WHILE SLIDING HEAD FIRST DOWNHILL
THE STARTING POSITION FOR A FACE DOWN HEAD FIRST ARREST
THE AXELESS ARREST
It is also possible to self-arrest without an ice axe, although
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that you use the edges of the boots, not the toes, as to do the latter could cause you to injure your Achilles tendon. Also, it is obviously not a suitable technique for use with crampons, although in real life you will do anything to try to slow yourself down or stop.
THE FINAL POSITION FOR THE AXE-LESS SELF-ARREST
USING AN ICE AXE ON STEEP GROUND
this should not be used as a first line of defence! However, it is possible that you lose your axe during a fall or it is snatched out of your hand when you place it in the snow, and an axeless arrest may have the effect of slowing you down or even stopping you. To practice this, lie on the snow, head upslope and face down, with your arms out to the sides. Now lift your feet and start slipping down the slope. As you
There are a variety of ways in which a single ice axe or pair of tools can be used for self-arrest, and the following techniques are the most common. Firstly, if just using a single axe, it can be held diagonally across but away from your body in an extended arrest position. This allows you to dig it in to the slope and use it for support, ready to arrest with it if need be. It can also have the shaft plunged into soft snow, as this will give more purchase than simply using the pick, which may pull through. If using two axes, both shafts can be pushed deep into the snow and the axe head pulled on, a good technique for getting over small cornices. Daggering is an efficient way of climbing moderately steep
slide, place your feet back on the snow with just the inside edges of the soles in contact with it, and push your body weight up with your hands. These should be placed at just over shoulder width apart, ending up with your arms straight. The finishing position looks similar to that of a press-up, but your arms and legs will be spaced a little wider. When doing this arrest, make sure
THE EXTENDED ARREST POSITION
DAGGERING WITH TWO AXES
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slopes. Place your hand on top of the axe with the pick forward, and push it into the snow at chest height. Now push down on it as you move your feet up. Using two axes makes this technique useful for quickly gaining height, as a good rhythm can be set up. The only drawback is that the axe is not in a good position for self-arresting, so don’t use it if a long fall is a possibility. Swinging the axe over your head is the technique of choice for most on steep ground. Holding the end of the shaft, swing through a full curve to make the pick bite in. With a reverse curve technical axe, a flick of the wrist at the end of the swing will make it bite in efficiently. Don’t be tempted to over-drive the pick, as this will make retrieving it very difficult, so moderate the size of the swing according to the snow and ice conditions. Keeping the axe shaft parallel with the snow will also improve the placement, and stop your fingers from getting bruised. On thin ice, or where there are many old axe marks, simply hooking the tip of the pick over the irregularities will be enough to provide purchase.
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