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Horizons new Just along the coast from the crowded Costas lie Murcia’s undiscovered gems. Derek Workman picks four of the best
A short drive south of La Manga, the Calblanque Nature Reserve is a 13km stretch of unspoilt coastline – one of the few in Spain – boasting beautiful beaches, quiet coves, rugged walks, strange rock formations, salt flats and pine forests. Wooden walkways carry you through the dunes, and on the outskirts of the park are the remains of old silver, copper and tin mines. Its crystal clear waters are a draw for scuba divers. Quite simply, it’s one of the most spectacular areas in Europe. Declared a national park in 1987, and then a nature reserve in 1992, Calblanque features amazing wildlife such as eagles, woodpeckers, rare eagle-owls (known as Bonelli’s eagles), and endangered sea turtles. There’s a network of footpaths through the hills, but for the energetic, the 15km walk to Cala Reona has spectacular views as it meanders around the front of the mountain. Alternatively, head for the sandy beaches of Playa Calblanque and Playa Larga, and if you fancy bathing
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au naturel, take the rough coastal path to Playa Negrete, a wide, sandy nudist beach with rocks and caves.
Stay: La Manga Club
For the ultimate luxurious break, La Manga Club is a gigantic five-star resort that’s highly regarded for its golfing facilities. Murcia enjoys 300 days of sunshine each year, so it’s no surprise that the region is one of the most popular destinations for a golfing break – and you won’t find anywhere better than this grand resort with its three championship courses, excellent academy and reputation for holding some of Europe’s most prestigious tournaments. But it’s not all about teeing off. Active types can get their pulses racing with anything from running in stunning scenery to windsurfing on the Med and mountain biking, whereas spa lovers can unwind with a wide choice of classic or bespoke treatments. Foodies won’t go hungry either – La Manga offers an impressive range of 20 top-class restaurants to choose from.
PHOTO PHOTOLIBRARY
Calblanque Nature Reserve, La Manga
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Murcia JET2HOLIDAYS.COM
Ciudad Encantada, Mazarrón
Situated beneath the foothills of the Sierra de la Almenara, the Bay of Mazarrón has around 35km of beaches and coves, and is a beautiful spot for relaxing in the sun or exploring the ocean. On the beach at Bolnuevo, to the west of the main settlement, Puerto de Mazarrón, the wind and water have carved out some of the weirdest whimsies of nature you’ll ever come across: the Gredas de Bolnuevo, also known as the Ciudad Encantada (enchanted city). Over the years, the wind picked up salt water spray from the sea and fine grains of sand from the beach, sculpting the sandstone 7 4 JetAway
into phantasmagorical formations. Some look like gigantic mushrooms about to topple from the slim columns that support them; others have the appearance of winged totem poles that could take off like a Paleolithic monster with a good wind behind them. A series of vertical faults and the presence of clay loam has allowed for uneven erosion over time, and created a honeycomb effect. Stunning at any time of day, the formations are especially beautiful when seen by the light of the evening, the gold of the sandstone absorbing the last of the sun’s rays. Take a stroll or a bike ride along the promenade to watch the sun setting on these intriguing natural oddities.
P H O T O S A L A M Y, P H O T O L IB R A R Y
s Below: a beautiful bay near Puerto de Mazarrón. Bottom: the enchanted city
Cartagena Harbour
Cartagena’s ancient natural harbour has recently undergone a revamp thanks to massive investment from the Spanish government. The port, where Roman and Phoenican ships dropped their anchors some 2,000 years ago, is now a buzzing area for taking a leisurely paseo (stroll), soaking up the sun or sampling some of the region’s finest cuisine. View the picturesque port from the sea by hopping on the Barco Turístico. The boat sets sail every half hour between 1.30pm and 3.30pm from alongside La Patatcha floating restaurant, and costs around £4.50. For an alternative view of Cartagena, climb to the top of the hill past La Concepción Castle. The hike is hard but worth it for the breath-taking
views of the old bullring, cathedral and glittering Med. Meander along the docks and you’ll come across Isaac Peral’s submarine. It’s not much to look at now, but this grey tube was one of Spain’s greatest nautical innovations. Designed by Isaac Peral y Caballero – the “father of the modern submarine” – it was the first to be electrically powered and to be able to fire torpedoes underwater. Despite successful tests, it received a critical report from the all-powerful Board of Evaluation in 1890. The engines and torpedo tubes were removed, until eventually all that was left was an empty shell.
Stay: NH Cartagena
This compact four-star hotel is smack-bang in the heart of the action, just a short stroll from the revamped harbour area, town hall and buzzing Calle Mayor. Start your day with the extensive breakfast spread and end with a digestif in the plush, trendy lounge.
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P H O T O S P H O T O L IB R A R Y, 4 C O R NE R S IM A G E S
Gran Casino, Murcia
If the magnificent entrance, with its rose marble pillars and heroic allegorical bas reliefs, isn’t enough to convince you that you’re entering a building of grandeur and significance, then the Islamic splendour of the Gran Casino’s patio Arabé will. This isn’t a casino in the sense of a gambling joint, but a gentlemen’s club – and it’s as kitsch as kitsch can be, filled with exuberant and intricate designs in all the colours of the rainbow. One of the most delightful rooms is the tocador señoras, or ladies’ powder room. Gilded chairs and mirrors line the walls, but it’s the ceiling that draws the eye – and the gasps – as it’s painted with youthful maidens with bright butterfly wings skittering across a sky of deepest blue. The piéce de résistance is the salon de Baile, inspired by the palaces of Louis XV. The ballroom, meanwhile, is a confection of gold moquette, with a stunning painted-silk ceiling. Find out
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more about the history of the casino by taking the informative multilingual audio tour. After a major refurbishment, the restaurant has recently reopened, specialising in Murcian cuisine with a creative slant, or you can just sip a coffee in the delightful patio azul. Later this year there will be a salon de té serving homemade cakes.
Stay: AC Murcia
If you’ve had your fill of opulence at the casino, then the AC Murcia should make a refreshingly modern change. This cool, cosmopolitan hotel boasts spacious rooms, a stylish, terraced outdoor pool area and an exotic Turkish bath – all just a stone’s thrown from Murcia’s major sights.
s Top: Murcia Gran Casino’s impressive entrance. Above: the reading room
MURCIA FLIGHTS FROM £XX CITY PACKAGES FROM £XXXpp
22kg baggage, 10kg hand baggage and transfers. Book with a £60* deposit
VISIT JET2HOLIDAYS.COM OR CALL 0800 408 5599 * Deposit is £60 per person. Available on bookings departing 10 weeks or more from date of booking
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