Brasil Observer #23 - English Version by Brasil Observer

B R A S I L O B S E R V E R LONDON EDITION

DECEMBER|JANUARY

www.brasilobserver.co.uk

ISSN 2055-4826

# 0 0 2 3

Bruno Dias / Estúdio Rufus (www.rufus.art.br)

. . . R A E Y W NE …AND WHAT’S IN STORE FOR BRAZIL IN 2015

Divulgation

CRIOLO IN LONDON Brazilian rapper talks exclusively to Brasil Observer

HIDDEN PARADISES Who isn’t dreaming of a holiday in the Brazilian sunshine?

Summary 4 6 8 10 14 16 18 21 24 26 30

IN FOCUS Innovation agencies agree cooperation

LONDON EDITION

GUEST COLUMNIST Joe Hewitt on the Street Child World Cup project

Is a monthly publication of ANAGU UK UN LIMITED founded by:

PROFILE Caio Locke: half English, half Brazilian

Ana Toledo Operational Director ana@brasilobserver.co.uk

BRAZIL IN 2015 Economy, Social Movements and Human Rights

Guilherme Reis Editorial Director guilherme@brasilobserver.co.uk

BR-UK CONNECTION Brazilian students arrive in the UK to study Tourism BRASILIANCE What Petrobras scandal says about Brazil

Roberta Schwambach Financial Director roberta@brasilobserver.co.uk

CONECTANDO In Aracajú, collective actions are driving the local culture

English Editor Kate Rintoul Kate@brasilobserver.co.uk

GUIDE Criolo is ready for unique presentation in London

Layout and Graphic Design Jean Peixe peixe@brasilobserver.co.uk

CULTURAL TIPS

Contributors Alec Herron, Bianca Brunow, Franko Figueiredo, Gabriela Lobianco, Leticia Faddul, Marielle Machado, Michael Landon, Nathália Braga, Ricardo Somera, Rômulo Seitenfus, Rosa Bittencourt, Shaun Cumming, Tiago Lobo, Wagner de Alcântara Aragão

COLUMNISTS TRAVEL

Printer Iliffe Print Cambridge Ltd. Distribution Emblem Group Ltd.

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La R

E D I T O R I A L

BRASÍLIA CONSENSUS

After the fiercest presidential election in almost 30 years of democracy in Brazil, Dilma Rousseff (Workers Party) has little political capital put into practice, for her second term. It will be interesting to see what changes she implements and how she deviates from the party’s traditional leftist stance in the year ahead. During the election campaign, especially in the second round, Rousseff adopted what many considered a “leftist line” to clearly point out the differences between her and her opponent, Aécio Neves (Social Democracy Party). The latter, unequivocal representative of the conservative emission was labelled with the failings of the social democrats project that from 1994 to 2002 produced little beyond the poorly explained economic stability. With Neves, after all, the country would be engulfed by the interests of the market and bankers towards a scenario of wage squeezes, job losses, rising interest rates and less social policies. Dilma Rousseff, in turn a representative of a Neo-Developmentalism model programmatically committed to economic growth and income redistribution, it was argued would lead the country to a new cycle without succumbing to neoliberal pressures that led the world economy to collapse. Faced with a difficult choice, the majority of the electorate opted for the project that allowed at least a small dose of hope - for a sovereign government that would ac-

celerate the reduction of inequalities between rich and poor, paving the construction of a fairer democracy. Victorious at the polls, Rousseff acts as if she had been defeated. In November’s issue, Brasil Obsever warned that her second term economic policy, which is clearly in need of new guidelines, would put the president in risk of adopting the discourse that she fought against in the election campaign, losing credibility with her voters and party hardliners. The choice of the team that will lead the economy from 2015 confirms this hypothesis (see page 10). It is not strange that the opposition continues acting as if the election is not yet finished. Confirming the right turn in the economy, Dilma Rousseff passed the message that she has admitted the error of her government’s ways. With this admission, it is very natural that her opponents feel more confident in this scenario. This Brasilia Consensus, in fact, has almost nothing new. The same was done by former President Lula when he took his first term in 2002. At the time, he committed to continue the inherited macroeconomic policies of Fernando Henrique Cardoso signing the famous “Letter to Brazilian People”. The situation, however, is not the same anymore. Under Lula, an international scenario of economic expansion, and the high price of commodities guaranteed the ability to accumulate the

necessary surplus to advance in social areas. This is no longer the situation; the strategy of “reconciliation” with the market could be wrong. The answer Dilma Rousseff hopes for is an increase of the private investment, but naming ministers that will appeal to financial elite does not ensure that. Of course, simply demonising the market will not solve any problems. But it is essential to understand that the construction of a new development cycle involves the absorption of the lessons of past experience. And the most important is that the market alone is not enough to ensure progress or stability of economic systems, much less the welfare of citizens. Many contradictions remain in Brazil’s economic policy. How is it possible to make Brazil a successful economy without discussing the amount spent on the payment of the public debt? How can we truly face social inequality without debating a tax reform that tax more large fortunes than the poorest earnings? And how is it possible to do undertake change with the participation of society, without more democratic reforms? The year of 2015 has to be surrounded by these issues.

TRUTH COMMISSION On 10 December the final report of the National Truth Commission, who have spend two years and seven months investigating the crimes

against humanity committed by state agents during Brazil’s military regime (1964-1985) was released. In all, 434 victims have been recognised by the Commission, which listed 377 people as direct or indirectly responsible for torture and killings during the period - this included presidents, generals, diplomats and police officers. On the one hand, people criticise the Commission for not having investigated the crimes committed by leftist guerrillas – as if the armed resistance of decentralised groups was compatible with illegal state policy put in place by the military dictatorship that turned political persecution, torture and murder of opponents in systematic acts of power maintenance. The Commission was right on this matter. On the other hand, people criticise the Commission for not being punitive. Unlike in other countries like Argentina and Chie, investigations will not lead to prosecutions for responsible of crimes. This is not necessarily a failing of Commission itself, but with the conciliatory nature of the Brazilian State. The Supreme Court of Brazil has declined to review of the Amnesty Law, which for 35 years has maintained unpunished violations of the military regime. Although the work of the Truth Commission is commendable, it is difficult to measure, after all, which came out winning, the democracy or the impunity.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Brazil and UK innovation agencies agree cooperation The Brazilian innovation agency FINEP, under the Ministry of Science and Technology, signed an agreement with Innovate UK, similar organ of the British government at the end of November in London. The aim of the cooperation is to foster the exchange of experiences and the implementation of joint initiatives to support cooperative projects between Brazilian and British companies. The signing took place at the Embassy of Brazil in the British capital, with the attendance of FINEP Innovation Director, Fernando Ribeiro, and Innovate UK deputy director of Strategies, Simon Bennett. FINEP is a government-owned company headquartered in Rio de Janeiro and its mission is to promote Brazilian economic and social development through governmental funding of science, technology and innovation in companies, universities, technological institutes and other public or private institutions. Before the signing ceremony, Ribeiro was received by the Ambassador of Brazil in the UK, Ro-

berto Jaguaribe, with whom he discussed the developments of the document, highlighting the opportunities for the promotion of investment in innovation. The day after, in Brussels, Belgium the director Fernando Ribeiro attended the annual forum organised by Taftie, the European Network of Innovation Agencies, and signed another memorandum. As an international partner Taftie, FINEP can integrate working groups in order to discuss issues relating to the financing of science, technology and innovation and it may benefit from training activities. At the forum, whose theme was the measurement of innovation, FINEP was officially presented to the other members of the network. Through Fernando Ribeiro, the Brazilian agency FINEP invited Innovate UK and Taftie to join the Advisory Board of UniFinep, which was accepted by both institutions. The idea is that in this way, the corporate university can benefit from consolidated experiences to train their employees, including with regard to exchanges studies.

AGENDA g

16 January The Second Annual CAF-LSE Global South Conference focuses on the theme of Geopolitics and the Global South: Challenges of the Emerging Order. This event is free and open to all however pre-registration is required and will be held at the Shaw Library, Old Building of the London School of Economics and Political Science.

29 January Event held by Canning House will bring together former British diplomats to reflect on their experience of serving in a variety of key Latin American capitals from the 1990s to the present day. This seminar offers a chance to reflect on British diplomacy in the region at the turn of the 21st century. Free, open to all.

3, 10 and 24 February On these dates will be held three different seminars at the Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brazil Institute. The first one focuses on the pacification of favelas in Rio de Janeiro; the second on the science of colonisation; and the third on the role Brazil plays in Latin America.

In the past 10 years, more than 35 million Brazilians were lifted out from extreme poverty and poverty. In recent years, Brazil has been the only BRIC country that has successfully achieved a high economic growth rate while reducing inequality. With a high propensity to consume, the growing demand from the everexpanding middle class represents a huge opportunity for companies to exploit Extract of Overseas Business Risk Brazil, document of the UK Trade & Investment to assist British companies in the country

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

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www.suriana.com.br

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

They are somebody The social phenomenon of street children is a global issue and it needs governments, leaders, businesses, media, individuals and society as a whole to say enough is enough By Joe Hewitt

Divulgation

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

In April 2014, 230 former street children came together at the foot of the globally iconic Cristo Redentor in Rio de Janeiro and the message from each child to the world was clear: I am somebody. This was the Street Child World Cup in Brazil and there has never been anything quite like it anywhere in the world. Across the globe, millions of children live, work or are in danger of the streets. The true number is not known but in 2002 UNICEF estimated that the number could be as high as 100 million children. This is clearly an issue that not only affects us here in Brazil, but is a social phenomenon of urban populations globally. The children who came to Rio were the outcast children, those who have lived or worked in the shadows of the streets surviving on the fringes of society. Girls and boys came from 19 countries including Liberia, Indonesia, USA, Argentina and England. Each was aged 14-17 and had lived, worked or been in danger from the streets. By the end of the tournament, they had not only proudly represented their countries but had represented every child still on the streets who has a future if they only receive the right support. The Street Child World Cup is held ahead of the FIFA World Cup for a reason: the impact of mega events on children can be devastating and street children are often on the front line. Indeed, this was how the Street Child World Cup first came into being. In the run-up to FIFA 2010 in South Africa, the Municipality of Durban was ‘rounding up’ street children and taking them out of the city as a way of ‘cleaning’ the streets. This madness had to end and it did. Such treatment of street children feeds into a perception that these children are somehow less than human and not deserving of their human rights. Such treatment is based on a false belief that street children cannot be rehabilitated and are only a threat to society. We know that this perception of street children is wrong and we have formed partnerships with organisations worldwide that prove that it is wrong every single day. With the right protection, rehabilitation and opportunities, no child would have to live on the streets. In Brazil in 2014, we wanted to remind the world of the potential of every child and the children who came to take part did exactly this. Sadly here in Brazil we know all to well the realities of children at risk of the street who tragically do not reach their full potential. Take Rodrigo, for example, who was the captain of Team Brazil boys. The team come from the inspirational O Pequeno Nazareno project based in Fortaleza and Recife. Rodrigo was the captain as he was a natural leader and very talented at football. Just weeks ahead of the Street Child World Cup he was gunned down on his fourteenth birthday on the streets of Fortaleza. Though Rodrigo was

on the road to a better future, the petty crime of his past caught up with him in a revenge attack. We did not forget Rodrigo and he inspired everyone involved with the Street Child World Cup to do more for the rights of street children. We commissioned a mural at the event to remember him and all the children who have lost their lives to the streets. We also focus on the inspirational stories of children who have survived street life. Take Owais, for example, from Team Pakistan. When Owais was 8-years-old he left an abusive home environment in Karachi and took to the streets. He would scavenge through rubbish collecting anything, which he could sell in order to survive. This is a typical story of why many children leave for the streets in the belief that they might be safer there than in an abusive home environment. Owais was one of the lucky ones, he was identified by local street child organisation the Aazad Foundation who ensured he had somewhere to sleep and they began to rebuild his life. Owais enjoyed playing football and eventually this led to him being chosen for the Street Child World Cup in Brazil. Owais led his team out at the SCWC and proudly represented his country and an estimated 2 million Pakistanis tuned in to follow the progress of the team in Rio. By the time they returned to Pakistan, the team had gone from being perceived as zeroes to become heroes of which a nation was proud. Owais and the team led a 13 city I AM SOMEBODY tour culminating in a national resolution for the rights of 1.5 million Pakistani street children. This is real change and it came about through the SCWC. The inspirational stories of the Street Child World Cup have led to support from high-profile figures including Pope Francis, Desmond Tutu, David Beckham, Zico, Bebeto and even Princes’ William and Harry. We believe in the children we work with, children like Owais, we believe in projects like the Azad Foundation and we believe that no child should have to live on the streets. We don’t just support the children who came to the Street Child World Cup but we support all the children who are being cared for by our partner projects. The social phenomenon of street children is a global issue and it needs governments, leaders, businesses, media, individuals and society as a whole to say enough is enough. Either we support these children in a viable reintegration into society or they will stay in the shadows and become a threat to society. There is more to be done and that is why in 2016 we will be hosting the Street Child Games ahead of the Rio Olympics. The games will once again give a platform to the inspirational young people we work with whose voices will lead to change for those children still on the streets. You can join us on the Road to Rio 2016, every single day we are working with our partner projects to give street children the opportunity to leave the streets behind.

Joe Hewitt is Director of Communications of Street Child World Cup, for more information www.streetchildworldcup.org

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Caio Locke painter of his own thoughts

Reality and fantasy drawn in oils and acrylic forms the work of Caio Locke, who spoke exclusively to the Brasil Observer at the opening night of his new exhibition in London By Rômulo Seitenfus

It’s a mysterious process, difficult to understand. It is not something concrete, it’s very abstract. There is a subjective world and an other, real world. There is a mix between philosophical and mathematical

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Rômulo Seitenfus

Caio Locke is English, but with a foot in Brazil. Half English, half Brazilian, he mixes reality with fantasy in paintings that reveal wonderful cities surrounded by surreal events. A mysterious universe. So says the artist himself, who gave an interview to Brasil Observer at the opening night of his new exhibition in London, Pillars of Wisdom, on display until January 2015 at Oaktree & Tiger Gallery. Working mostly in acrylic and oil, Locke’s paintings instigate the imagination with a rare combination that falls between mathematical precision and abstract thinking. Colours and shapes

also play a key role for the painter in his search for subjective expression of both the inner and the outer worlds. The result is comprehensive and opens the way for both spiritual and intellectual interpretation of his works. From this inherent subjectivity to the artwork, the interview below seeks to understand the motivations and references of the artist, who is someone who can draw on the canvas what is happening in his thoughts. Nevertheless, it is worth seeing the paintings first hand so that the lines of his reasoning can be understood more fully.

How would you describe your past between Rio and London?

Which artists have inspired you early in your career?

My father’s family has lived in Brazil for over 100 years, and my mother is English. I spent lots of time in Brazil, and grew up visiting the Rio sights. I also have family in São Paulo, but Rio de Janeiro is the place of my strongest memories. The Rio topography is what I have most in my memory. I remember the smell of the city, the Leblon noise. At the time, there were chickens on the streets... We used to do activities on the high waves breaking on Copacabana beach. I always found much beauty between the sea and the hills. I remember the noise of the buses, the tunnels. I liked to assemble Lego... My favourite was a rocket, and then I painted a train going to another planet.

At school I loved Goya – very dark, but imaginative. I love Morandi, the Italian Futurism, and I admire Van Gogh Escher because he expresses the reality with sensitivity. Cosmic architects also inspire me, such as the Brazilians Lúcio Costa and Oscar Niemeyer.

You speak of a combination of mathematical precision and abstract imagination as a philosophical line of your work... It’s a mysterious process, difficult to understand. It is not something concrete, is very abstract. There is a subjective world and an other, real world. There is a mix between philosophical and mathematical, between the concrete and the subjective. It is a copy, but not real, of the meeting between the abstract colours, without identifying ways. Your thoughts are exposed in your works, such as the idea that utopia serves as a mask for a false optimism... Yes, because there is no possibility as human. I tried to understand the inner world and the perception of civilization in existence as a reflection of the outside world and where civilization is going to. My work is the result of this meeting. It is the aspiration of our dreams, it is optimism as utopia and reflection of all that.

Does the mystery you express come from any belief? It is more oriented to the side of philosophy or spirituality. I am open to the world and all I see and feel, what happens around people. I don’t want to be specifically on one side or another. It is more than religion. It is another thing that has nothing to do with religion. Your signature on the canvas is always hidden... It’s a matter of priority and focus. I do not want to highlight my name because the image is more important. It is also a fun game. When did you open your imagination to new artistic possibilities? Can you cite some specific period? When I started attending East London... From a three-dimensional shape, I started to imagine new possibilities, reinforcing the surreal. That really opened my mind to think of painting, to be a designer of my thoughts. Rio is a very prominent theme in many of your paintings. You show the real city, mixed with surreal images... It is something above the everyday, something that mixes reality and the unreal. It is people’s lives and the setting in which they live, but all mixed up with something that is out of real power.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Turn right on economy Dilma Rousseff has chosen to follow the logic of markets. The unique certainty now is the adjustment; other items remain unclear By Pedro Henrique Evangelista Duarte

Pedro Duarte is Professor at the Business, Accounting and Economics College from the Federal University of Goiás; PhD researcher in Economic Development - Social and Labour Economy in the Federal University of Campinas

After a long cycle of growth and relative financial stability, in 2014 the Brazilian economy has shown clear signs of slowdown, with rising inflation and negative growth that officially signalled a technical recession. The latest financial troubles began to take shape in 2008, following the global crisis and while it was predicted that the presidential election would create a lull in Brazil’s economic growth, the situation has proved worse than many expected, but why? Officially, the federal government points to three main explanations for the economic slowdown. First, there is the effect of the international crisis, especially on the economies of the United States and China, the main importers of Brazilian commodities. Moreover, the drop in the price of Brazilian products led to a fall in the national reserves accumulation, which is essential for exchange rate stability. Second, the World Cup. Although it was expected to create an overall increase in consumption, the consecutive holidays on match days had adverse effects on production and trade across the country. Finally, the presidential elections created an unwanted sense of uncertainty in the market, which led to the reduction of private investment and delay decisions until there was a clear position of the new President of the Republic about the conduct of economic policy. In reality, the governmental evaluation proves to be far too simplistic, as if there had been no political mistakes in the conduct of national economic policy that could more directly explain the deceleration of Brazil’s development. Above all these reasons given by the government is the exhaustion of a growth expansion model focused on increasing domestic consumption. There is no doubt about the importance of raising the minimum wage policy, maintained since President Lula’s government, and social programs. Problems have arisen in several areas including, in the incentives to certain industrial sectors, with no articulated planning of industrial promotion. While a relatively long period of consumption has sustained economic growth, it has now reached its limits and Roussef ’s government was slow to recognise this.

The result is what we have: slowing growth and rising inflation, albeit maintaining low unemployment and population income level. As if it was not enough, the investigations over Petrobras, the largest Brazilian company, consolidate investors’ notion of uncertainty.

What to expect in 2015 During the presidential election campaign Argentine news portal Notes, interviewed the economist Marcelo Carcanholo, who was asked about the differences between the candidates Dilma Rousseff (PT) and Aécio Neves (PSDB) in the management of the economy, and replied “no matter who wins, the adjustment will come”. This adjustment is probably the only certainty for all Brazilians in the beginning of the new political-economic cycle in the country. It is certainly great news for some and problematic for others. But first we must recognise the economic policy of Roussef ’s Workers Party. Strictly from the point of view of its central core, the Lula and Rouseff governments maintained the same scheme consolidated by Fernando Henrique Cardoso, president from 1994 to 2002 by the Social Democracy Party: the “macroeconomic tripod”: primary surplus (to pay debt interests), floating exchange rate and inflation targets. Based on the neoliberal ideology, this policy promotes a number of moorings in the management of the economy, always in favour of market interests. In other words, all efforts are focused on the attempt to maintain a stable environment for the large financial capital, since this is responsible for investments. If the international economy is favourable - as it was during the years of the Lula government - progress in other areas is promoted. Otherwise, the efforts will be for stability with no question, whatever the costs are. When she announced the names of her new economic team, Dilma Rousseff sent exactly that message: the market requires stability, so let’s get into a cycle of adjustments. The next Ministers of Finance and Planning - Joaquim Levy and Nelson Barbosa, respectively - are typical representatives of the market and have already sent laid out their plans: the focus of the next three years will be to

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

increase the primary surplus and reduction of public expenditure. Compared to other economic and social aspects of the nation, the debate was left wide open: what we can do, will be done. Looking at the economic game, you can tell that Rousseff not only gave the response required by the market but also to those on the right. Not that PT can still be considered in fact a leftist party. The point is the choice of names that preach a kind of opposite economic policy to that promised by the incumbent president and the PT itself during the election campaign. For Brazil’s economy to return to growth, there is no doubt that the key would be the change in economic policy. From a critical perspective, however, there are two essential steps that must be taken in any economic policy. First, a civil audit of public debt to allow the end of the payment of external debt is required as stopping these payment schemes, considered abusive by some would represent savings of millions of dollars every year, since it would end the primary surplus obligation. Second, the construction of a coordinated industrial policy for new development project for Brazil is essential. The government, however, opted for the logic of markets. So, the only certain thing now is the adjustment; the other items remain under a dark aura. We cannot know what will happen in 2015.

Who pays the bill? In countries like Brazil, where the dependency is the central feature of economic relations, there is no doubt that it is the working class who will end up pay for financial stagnation. Adjustment is synonymous with reductions in public spending, reduced investments, and repression of the minimum wage. As the saying goes, “the rope always breaks on the weaker side”. Not surprisingly, the main trade union of Brazil, which maintains its political articulation with the government, pointed out that a solution to the crisis would be the momentary reduction in wages. Reduce wages, of course, because the reduction in profit rates is never placed in extensive discussion. Brazil is therefore facing a context of uncertainty. Given the Dilma Rousseff ’s choices, expectations are not the best possible.

NOTES AND INFORMATION 2015 Budget

The Budget Committee of Brazil’s National Congress approved the final report of the Budget Guidelines Law (LDO, in Portuguese) for 2015 on 10 December, this will form the basis for the Federal Budget. Deputies and Senators from all parties reached an agreement to try to vote on the 2015 Budget in Congress until the month of January.

Fiscal targets

Following pessimistic economic projections, the report reduces the primary surplus target to be met by the federal government – from 86 billion reais to 55.3 billion reais. Adding the fiscal target of 11 billion reais for states and municipalities, the primary surplus target for the public sector is 66.3 billion reais, which is equivalent to 1.2% of Brazil’s gross domestic product (GDP), considering expansion of 0.8% for the Brazilian economy in 2015.

Public debt

The primary surplus corresponds to the economy for the public debt payment – which corresponds to government borrowings from public or private financial institutions, in the internal or external financial market, as well as with companies, national and international organizations, individuals or other governments. According to the Citizen Audit of the Debit association (Auditoria Cidadã da Dívida, in Portuguese), gross external debt exceeds 540 billion dollars and domestic debt in titles issued by the Treasury spends 3 trillion reais.

‘Manoeuvre’

A day before the approval of the final report of the LDO 2015, Congress concluded the vote on the bill 36/14 amending the calculation of the primary surplus in order to enable the government to achieve fiscal balance target of the year. The government announced that it is seeking a primary surplus of at least 10.1 billion reais in 2014. From January to September, however, the result of the government’s public accounts registered a deficit of 15.7 billion reais.

Glass ceiling

The opposition, especially the Social Democrats (PSDB), has heavily criticised what they called “manoeuvre” of the federal government. The change in how the government can meet the primary surplus targets, however, is not new in the budget legislation. The first occurred in 2001, with Fernando Henrique Cardoso (PSDB). There were also changes in surplus in two years of the second term of former President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva (PT): in 2009 and 2010.

Drop in revenue

In the last 12 months, a number of tax concessions handouts for banks and large companies, including multinationals, were mainly responsible for the drop in tax revenues in 2014 – which forced the federal government to abandon initial primary surplus target of 99 billion reals. Counting tax exemptions for business sectors, the figures exceed 84 billion reais in 2014; in 2013 was 77 billion reais.

Meanwhile, banks...

Such largesse, combined with the low economic growth, contributed to the deterioration of the fiscal situation of Brazil. Additionally, the accelerated issuance of public debt, with rising interest rates, has led to an increase in the debt stock and the requirement of funds for the payment of interest. Even in this scenario, the profit of Brazilian banks in 2014 should be better than in 2013: 73.5 billion reais.

Paradise?

Following the prescription made by financial institutions and credit rating agencies, Brazil appear for the fifth consecutive year, among the five countries with higher primary surpluses in the world, according to available estimates. Added to higher real interest rates in the world, of 4.68% per year after discharge from the Selic (basic interest rate stipulated by the Central Bank) to 11.75%, and will be what may be called paradise for bondholders of public debt.

Back to the budget

The Annual Budget Law Project for 2015 predicts a total expense of 2.8 trillion reais. Of this amount, 1.3 trillion reais, or 47%, are for the payment of public debt interests. This value is 13 times more than the resources earmarked for health, 13 times more than the resources for education, or 54 times the resources to transport.

Minimum wage

According to the budget, the minimum wage in 2015 will be 788.06 reais per month. The figure represents an increase of 8.8% compared to the current 724 reais. The impact on public finances will be 22 billion reais. But, taking into account the constitutional provision which states that the minimum wage should be sufficient to meet the expenses of a worker and his family with food, shelter, health, education, clothing, hygiene, transportation, leisure and security, the correct value would be 3,000 reais, according to Dieese research.

Latin America and the Caribbean

According to the Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (ECLAC), GDP growth in the region will be 1.1% in 2014, rising to 2.2% in 2015. For ECLAC, Brazil will grow 0.2 % in 2014 and in 2015, 1.2%. The Economist forecasts growth of 2.8% for Latin America in 2015, while the projection for Brazil’s expansion of 1.8%.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Third round of fights In 2015, the construction of a broad and democratic space to coordinate and unify social demands is absolutely necessary By Miguel Leme

Miguel Leme is member of the Popular and Trade Union Central (CSP – Conlutas, in Portuguese) and of the Freedom, Socialism and Revolution tendency of the PSOL

The year of 2014 will surely be remembered in Brazil for the various struggles of by the youth and workers in the face of economic and political exhaustion. The first half of 2014 was marked by some important strikes, such as that of the street sweepers in Rio de Janeiro along with bus drivers and education workers several states, followed by federal employees, underground workers in Sao Paulo and the struggles of the Homeless Workers Movement (MTST) and other popular movements for housing. There were also several demonstrations opposed to the excessive public spending ahead of Brazil’s hosting of the World Cup. Most of these claims, although not unified were eventually victorious, showing the weight given to public concerns following the mass demonstrations of June 2013. They also revealed the progressive aspect of the actions organised by the youth and workers through representative movements. In the second half of the year, even as further strikes ensued, especially of the postal workers, national banks and public universities, public attention was firmly on the bigger picture with all eyes on the presidential election. The election result showed increasing disenchantment for political institutions. In the second round, more than 44 million people did not vote or voted blank. The main reason for the increase of disbelief was the inevitable indifference following 12 years of successive PT (Workers Party) governments. During this period, Lula and Rousseff followed increasingly neoliberal policies and corrupt methods that caused national outcry, particularly in the “mensalão” and, more recently, “petrolão” cases. Although the election saw important electoral growth of PSOL (Socialism and Freedom Party), it is undeniable that the majority of the population, especially the youth, saw Marina Silva (PSB – Socialist Party) and Aécio Neves (PSDB – Social Democracy Party) as possible alternatives. None of them, however, presented a fundamental difference in relation to Dilma Rousseff ’s economic policy. As is known, Social Democrats, when at the presidency of the country, put in place a policy expressed by privatisation, neoliberal reforms, wage reductions,

spending cuts in the social sectors and repression and criminalisation of social movements. As there were more similarities than differences between Rousseff and Neves, in the second round marketers were forced to perform, a campaign of “deconstruction” based on personal attacks. But after the second round, due to the worsening economic situation in the country, Dilma Rousseff made it clear that she will end up implementing many of the ideas she criticised in her presiendital opponents. The first measure was to increase the basic interest rate and announce the new Finance Minister, Joaquim Levy, indicated by the bankers. The current economic team has reported that some rates and price adjustments are now needed. There have already been increases in gasoline and the next one will be in energy tariffs. The attacks on public income, however, do not stop. For 2015 the government plans to increase spending cuts and resume the privatisation of highways, ports and airports, in addition to labour and social security neoliberal reforms. As if these attacks were not enough, a water crisis is reaching a critical point in important states, such as São Paulo, Minas Gerais and Rio de Janeiro. In the specific case of São Paulo, over 75% of the population have had their lives hindered by lack of water. And the governor Geraldo Alckmin (PSDB), while still denying that there is rationing going on, will be required to anticipate the end of the classes in state schools. Given this reality, some industrial sectors, such as beverages, textile and chemical, reported to be forced to lay off workers. Though we live one of the largest droughts in history of São Paulo, the great responsible for this water crisis are the successive governments of the Social Democrats in the State. In twenty years, they have not built a single reservoir for the collection and treatment of water. To ensure water for the population and stop new attacks from Dilma Rousseff ’s government, the construction of a broad and democratic space to coordinate and unify all these struggles in the society needs to happen in 2015. This involves the implementation of a National Meeting of Social Movements.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

What are the expectations for human rights in Brazil in 2015? The social movements seen in the previous years and the most recent election campaign raised several unresolved issues – which are at the heart of everyday life of the country. Brazil is the country with the largest number of homicides in the world: more than 50,000 a year. More than half of the victims are young people aged between 15 and 29 and of these, 77% are black. Given this picture, Amnesty International launched a campaign to draw the attention of Brazilian society to the seriousness of the issue and demand answers from the authorities to solve it. This debate, indeed, is inseparable from other: the reform of the security forces, which act with extreme violence. In five years, police were responsible for killing at least 11,000 people – this is more than the total killed by police in the US over three decades. Police are accused of most of the killings that occurred in Brazil, like those committed at the Complexo da Maré favela in Rio de Janeiro in June 2013. Part of the solution must be is to overcome the tradition of impunity, as proposed by the law project number 4471, aimed at ending the “acts of resistance” term, which classify victims of police killings as having resisted the authority, hindering investigations. The episodes of police violence in security operations and also in the crackdown on protests in recent years strengthened the mobilisations for the extinction of the states’ military police, as put forward in the proposed constitutional amendment 51, currently under discussion in the National Congress. The militarisation reinforces the logic of war, especially against the poorest and most vulnerable social groups. Ending it has been a demand of social movements and also the UN reporters, having been recommended to the Brazilian government by members of Human Rights Council of the international organisation. Another important step: in December 2014, the National Truth Commission, which spent almost three years investigating the crimes committed by Brazil’s military dictatorship from 1964-1985, published its long-awaited final report. In the coming months there will be mobilisations for the federal government to fulfil its 29 recommendations, such as prosecutions of state agents accused of commit-

ting crimes against humanity and reform curricula of civil and military schools to better handle the issue of dictatorship. Throughout 2015, one hundred other truth committees in Brazil (within states, municipalities, universities, trade unions) will also present their conclusions. This information will help people understand the scope of human rights violations committed by the military regime and motivate the pursuit of justice against those who committed crimes. Sexual and reproductive rights have also driven many debates in Brazil over the last year, with important achievements, like the right to same sex marriage. However, there are still many cases of homophobic violence, including killings which the Gay Group of Bahia estimate to stand at 200 per year. The disastrous effects of treating abortion as a crime, rather than a public health issue, are exemplified by stories like Jandira dos Santos Cruz and Elizângela Barbosa, who died after abortions in clandestine clinics in Rio de Janeiro. Their bodies were hidden by employees of these “facilities”. Brazilian religious and political leaders often support restrictions and violations of sexual and reproductive rights, threatening any achievements in this area. Indigenous peoples and other traditional populations also remain in constant danger in Brazil. Despite the fact that their fundamental rights are written in the 1988 Constitution, there is great difficulty in protecting them. Conflicts over natural resources often end with activists murdered in a general framework characterised by impunity. There are projects under discussion in Congress that jeopardise the legal framework of protection to those rights, as the new Mining Code and the PEC 215 – that transfers from the Executive to the Legislature, with its strong rural lobby, the responsibility for demarcating land for indigenous peoples. The impacts of major infrastructure projects such as power plants, are also serious, particularly the absence of a law regulating the right to prior consultation, free and informed as provided in diplomatic treaties such as the Convention 169 of the International Labour Organisation. Faced with challenges and threats, it is essential to address human rights as the key point of the 2015 political agenda.

Human rights ahead From the high number of homicides in the country to the protection of indigenous peoples, Brazil has several unresolved issues By Maurício Santoro

Maurício Santoro is Human Rights Advisor at Amnesty International

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Heatric wins £80 million contract in Brazil The company had the support of the UK Trade & Investment to supply components to Brazilian oil and gas group Petrobras

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Newcastle College is one of the partner institutions where students will be based

UK welcomes Brazilian tourism students A group of 52 students will be connected to different contacts in the UK’s tourism industry during three months of study

Betina Frantz, 18, is in the fourth stage of the Gastronomy course at the Health Sciences Federal University in Porto Alegre, southern Brazil. On 14 November, she left Brazil to travel to the UK, more precisely the campus of the Newcastle College, where she hopes to learn new things in food tourism. “This contact with local culture is very important, especially in a country recognised worldwide as a reference for the quality of services and hospitality,” she said. The young student is part of a group of 52 Brazilians selected for the Tourism and Hospitality International Qualification Project in the UK. For three months, the students will have contact with subjects related to the tourism industry, looking at topics such as leadership, hospitality, innovation, quality management and marketing. “The farthest I have ever travelled was to Foz do Iguaçu in Brazil. This

is the first time that I’ll have a truly international experience,” said Igor Mourão, 24, a student in the second stage of Tourism in Estácio de Sá University in Rio de Janeiro, who is also based at Newcastle College. For Laís Gomes, 20, who is studying at Exeter College this is “a great opportunity to learn about another culture and apply the practices in Brazil”. Gomes is currently in the fourth period of Tourism at the University of Brasilia, and plans to work in event management and hospitality.

PARTNERSHIP This initiative is the result of a partnership between Brazil’s Ministry of Tourism and the Higher Education Personnel Training Coordination (Capes, in Portuguese) with the Association of Colleges in London. The scholarships, which help

with travel, college fees. Each student on the scheme is entitled to up to £400 per month, plus £90 for health insurance and £1000 towards flight expenditure. Students will visit five colleges across the UK, from Bournemouth and Poole in the south to Exeter in Devon and the northern cities of Newcastle and Sheffield, and Scotland’s hub of international tourism, Edinburgh. The initiative is also partnered with Fundación Universidad in Spain. More 60 students also travelled to Spain, on 1 December where they are based at three academic institutions: Alicante, Illes Balears and Malaga. A pilot project by the Ministry of Tourism took place in Portugal last year, with 50 fellows selected to experience the country’s tourism industry and apply this knowledge at home in Brazil.

Poole-based Heatric has secured an £80m contract to supply components to Brazilian oil and gas group Petrobras. It will supply printed circuit heat exchangers (PCHEs) which will be used on floating, production, storage and offloading units offshore from Brazil. Heatric, which is part of UK Trade & Investment’s (UKTI) high value opportunities (HVO) programme, won the contract after Petrobras visited its Dorset headquarters during a UKTI Brazil conference. Heatric used this as a starting point to develop a relationship with the Brazilian company, culminating in the award of this contract. The UKTI team in Rio provided the company with market advice. International Trade Advisor (ITA) colleagues in the UK offered multi-market support to feed into the company’s wider internationalisation strategy. Nick Johnston, director of sales at Heatric, said: “UKTI continues to identify opportunities for us to raise our profile and connect with relevant local stakeholders. They knew who we needed to speak to in Brazil and made sure we got face-to-face time with them.” Heatric was formed in Australia in 1985 and relocated to Poole after it was acquired by defence and aerospace giant Meggitt in 1990. It employs more than 350 staff in Dorset and also has sales offices in Houston, Rio de Janeiro, Singapore and Sydney.

STRATEGY Heatric registered on Petrobras’ suppliers list, Petronect, a system which is now online and in English. Heatric also found local partners to assemble the heat exchangers in Brazil so as to provide local content. This was in line with the regulations laid out by the Brazilian National Petroleum Agency, ANP. Petrobras plan to double their production from 2 to 4 million barrels of oil per day by 2020. Petrobras’ investments in the ‘pre-salt’ oil fields off the coast of Brazil offer significant and potentially lucrative opportunities for UK companies who have developed cutting-edge goods and services in areas of deepwater reserves.

Read every past issue of Brasil Observer at issuu.com/brasilobserver

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

The open veins in Brazilian politics ‘Lava Jato Operation’, which has lead to the imprisonment of executives from Brazil’s largest construction companies, exposes the historical promiscuity between economic and political powers By Wagner de Alcântara Aragão

During the G20 meeting in Australia, Brazilian President Dilma Rousseff said the ‘Lava Jato Operation’ - an investigation into corruption that had sent executives of the largest construction companies in Brazil to prison that week - represented a milestone in the history of the country. Rousseff ’s declaration of was not mere rhetoric, or a simple attempt to capitalise on bonus of bringing out the often veiled promiscuous relationship between economic and political powers, them ‘Lava Jato’ is leaving a genuine legacy in cleaning up Brazilian business. That’s what the president of the Celso Furtado International Centre, Roberto Saturnino Braga thinks. Author of books on politics and economics, former Senator and Mayor of Rio de Janeiro, Braga believes the results of the Brazil’s Federal Police operation will force changes in national politics. He also believes it will also change the behaviour of big corporations in their relations with the governmental actors. Rousseff included political reform as a priority for her second term – a task that is not up to the Executive; the Legislative has the biggest responsibility on the matter. Braga considers that given the ‘Lava Jato’ scandal (read more about this on the next page) the Congressmen should be forced by public opinion to move, legislating for changes in the rules of the political game. “The impact of the operation will force Congress to express its views. It has historically omitted the necessity for political reform; after all, the model favours who has been elected, the mandate holders. But not anymore, the Congress will have to speak,” Braga told Brasil Observer. A theme that has found resonance in the political debate and tends to gain strength after ‘Lava Jeto’ is the financing model for political campaigns. Almost all parties – or at least all the big ones – are covered by donations of funds from contractors currently being investigated by the Federal Police operation. Braga evaluates that after the ‘Lava Jeto’, it will be very difficult to maintain the current model. “I think

it will change the way private companies finance campaigns. And the companies themselves will have much more cautious [in participating donations]”.

Corrupt and corruptor In the opinion of lawyer Rodrigo Gava, a specialist in Economic Law, Master in Law and a PhD student in Political Science, the ‘Lava Jato Operation’ made clear to society that corruption exists only because, if in one side there is the corrupt (public office or politician), on the other there is a corruptor, represented by the economic power. “It seems that Brazil is finally opening its eyes to the other side of the coin,” said Gava. “Today, if politicians and civil servants and party leaders who are or were in power sink, take along part of Brazilian magnates who never honoured the pants of capitalism they wear”. But is it not too early to be optimistic about the punishment of “sharks”. Does messing with gigantic, powerful and entrenched economic interests put the operation at risk, like same outcome that Satyagraha Operation, which six years ago came to take bankers to jail, but that ended up resulting in impunity? Roberto Saturnino Braga said he believed that this time, the situation is different. “I do not think there will be disqualification of ‘Lava Jato’. My concern is more with the demoralisation of Petrobras. There is a huge interest against Petrobras,” said the former Congressman. Can the circumstances in which the country lives – with a more attentive and demanding society – inhibit attempts to dampen the ‘Lava Jato’? If the answer is yes, more than capitalising the success of the operation, the President Dilma Rousseff should take the collective ambition and to take actions that show other deviations. That’s what Rodrio Gava defends. “There is much more around and beyond the already traditional contractors. It’s time to move the hornet’s nest of public transport, the regulated services and many other concessions

in the hands of illegitimate liquidators of the republic that are so harmful and contrary to the public interest. It is time for Dilma appears on national television every week, to show what she does and what she will do to change the country”.

Petrobras The Association of Petrobras Engineers held an action in defence of the Brazilian public company in November, in front of the company’s headquarters in Rio de Janeiro. Trade unions and social movements have also shown concern about the political use of ‘Lava Jato Operation’ in order to demoralise and discredit the company, and thus create a favourable environment for multinational explore one of the nation’s greatest assets – reservations of oil in the pre-salt layer. “Petrobras is our greatest asset. Especially after the pre-salt discovery, it became the target of giant economic interests. There is a devaluation of the company’s motion, to create difficulties,” said Roberto Saturnino Braga. The concern is echoed in the words of President Dilma Rousseff. She has warned the press that care should be taken so that Brazilian society does not “condemn” Petrobras for acts of corruption committed by some officials and directors. In the second week of December, the US law firm Wolf Popper filed a collective action against Petrobras in a court of New York on behalf of investors who purchased receipts representing Brazilian state company’s shares and that are listed on the New York Stock Exchange. The action alleges that Petrobras provided false and misleading communications and showed a culture of corruption in the company. By the time of writing, the Brazilian company had not spoken about it, saying only that “it was not notified of the lawsuit”. If ‘Lava Jato Operation’ will have the power to change the direction of national politics, it is not known. But with open wounds, it is with great anticipation that much of society is awaiting the outcome.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Agência Brasil

Money-laundering scheme investigated originally moved up to 10 billion reais

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS g

What is the ‘Lava Jato Operation’? It is an investigation of the Federal Police and the Federal Prosecutor’s Office regarding a criminal organisation formed by politicians, civil servants, contractors and money changers executives. Contractors distributed among themselves contracts with public companies, especially Petrobras, through the payment of bribes and misuse of public money, passed on to political parties. How did the corruption work? According to the Prosecutor’s Office, contractors previously met up and decided who would perform each of the works offered by the public power. The value of its offer in the bidding was added a certain percentage, diverted to public officials and political parties. This budget was passed by the contractors to the gang by “consulting” companies linked to scheme members, “washing” the money. Who was involved? The money changer Alberto Youssef

was the financial operator of the scheme, while former Supply Director of Petrobras Paulo Roberto Costa was the political operator. In testimony to the Justice, Costa said the scheme also worked in other Petrobras areas, such as Services, Gas and Energy, Production and International. g

arrested, the Federal Police met with him a list of 750 works involving large construction and public works. g

Which contractors were parts of the gang? ‘Lava Jato’ has investigated executives from nine contractors: Camargo Corrêa, OAS, UTC/Constram, Odebrecht, Mendes Júnior, Engevix, Queiroz Galvão, Iesa Óleo & Gás and Galvão Engenharia. How much money did the scheme move? The money-laundering scheme investigated originally moved up to 10 billion reais. There is no information on how much public money was diverted. The federal judge Sergio Moro said the damage suffered only by Petrobras “reach millions or even billions of reais.” In March, when Youssef was

Why has most of the news only focussed on Petrobras? Every story needs a focus and the investigation of the Federal Police began with Alberto Youssef and Paulo Roberto Costa. The more information is obtained, the more the story should be expanded. Although the focus is on Petrobras, other public companies have appeared in investigations such as the Energy Company of Minas Gerais (Cemig, in Portuguese), a leading electric utility in Brazil. Who benefited from the scheme? Testimonials of Costa and Youssef indicate that the money transferred to political parties served to irrigate the coffers of members of the Workers Party (PT), Democratic Movement Party (PMDB) and Progressive Party (PP). Among others involved in the scheme would be the former president of the

Social Democracy Party (PSDB), Sergio Guerra, who died in March 2014. How old is the scheme? The contractor’s cartel scheme in Petrobras works existed for at least 15 years. “Although it is not possible to measure the total amount of damage, it can be said that the criminal scheme operated for at least 15 years at Petrobras,” wrote the attorneys in the petition asking for authorization to the outbreak of the seventh phase of the operation. g

What is the future of ‘Lava Jato’? The processes and investigations into the ‘Lava Jato’ will follow in two separate tables. While the federal judge Sergio Moro continues with its efforts in Curitiba, in order to prove the criminal scheme involving contractors, money changers and public companies, the Attorney General of the Republic, Rodrigo Janot, looks at the evidence for, before the Supreme Federal Court (STF), conduct the investigation of the privileged forum holders, politicians.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Aracaju, SE

Culture in motion Zons is a cultural reduction collective that expands the platform, connecting local communities and building a set of ideas that transcend the region’s problems

A simple idea followed by several developments form the history of Zons, a cultural movement born in Aracaju (the capital of Sergipe, Brazil’s North-eastern State) who host their second music festival at the end of 2014 and have been a driving force in the region’s recent cultural renaissance. In 2012, photographer Victor Balde and cultural producer Edézio Aragão set out to produce a film to promote bands from Sergipe, disseminating their work and contextualising the region’s musical production. Their work ended up giving rise to the Zons Movement - an artistic

By Helen Brüseke – From Aracaju, Sergipe g

and sustainable initiative focused on wider current issues such as the environment, local culture and independent projects through live events and experiences. To turn their ideas into reality, the duo took the contemporary route of forming a collective and seeking public finance through crowd funding platforms. “Parts of the project, such as the making and release of a film and the production of our live events, were funded through Catarse, in fact Zons was the first project from Sergipe funded by the platform,” said Victor Balde. The first crowd funding exercise saw donors rewarded in various

ways which also promoted the project, such as offering copies of the DVD, printed t-shirts and tickets to the groups first festival in 2013, which featured around 30 musicians and producers aged between 25 and 30 years.

ZONS TEAM The designers, photographers, cultural producers, musicians, sound engineers and others who contribute to the spread of the Zons Movement philosophy are part of a hyper-connected generation awakening quickly to new values. Zons is a collective ideal

that seeks to bring together and strengthens ideas to enhance physical and social spaces. The staff, are also part of the communication universe, and already involved with photography, advertising, journalism, and cinema in their own right. In taking on large projects with the production of live events and festivals, the team assert themselves as professionals to promote local culture with quality and credibility. Gradually, as their team grew in experience and knowledge, Zons developed to include more events, connecting to a wider audience and finding a growing number of

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

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people who share their same desires and ideals. In addition to the festival, they have hosted other smaller performances including Zons Kids (held on Children’s Day with special programmes aimed at young music fans), Zons at Home and Zons Pocket (small performances that took place at different locations in the city). This has expanded to include other types of public experiences such as art exhibitions and dining experiences that go beyond entertainment. The movement combines professionals from several areas and brings together talents of vegetarian cuisine, theatre, the visual arts and dance, making the whole initiative more dynamic.

THE FESTIVAL

A simple idea culminated in the Zons Movement, an artistic initiative focussed on current issues such as the environment, local culture and independent projects

The Por-do-Sol (Sunset) ranch hosted the first Zons Festival, which brought together about 500 people in November 2013 for a day of performances by authentic local bands. As the smallest capital of Brazil, Aracaju does not feature on the route of great shows or festivals. When big acts visit the Northeast, they always play in Salvador, Recife or Fortaleza. This void has been filled with a vibrant local music scene. Zons’ festival of local and unique attractions which celebrated this diversity was a milestone for the city’s cultural backdrop. The success of Zons has been an indicator of the region’s growing forms of cultural production. The citizens of Aracaju have been increasingly welcoming to new entertainment options, and actions that combine different philosophies to benefit people and the city at the same time. Not only does the Zons Movement reveal a new form of interaction, but the whole current cultural context is quite positive, considering that five years ago the capital had limited artistic and entertainment options. Part this phenomenon happened naturally: people from several states voiced the need to promote local culture to a different audience. During the same period the local economy has also grown, opening the range of services in various sectors. Recent years have seen an influx of new bars, restaurants and cafes inspired by successful examples in neighbouring capitals such as Maceio, Salvador and Recife.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

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WIDER AIMS Trying to define Zons and it’s goals in a few and brief words, is to stick to its practical aspect only, negating the social impact the movement has had. “Our proposal is to be a movement of cultural production in a way that is not restricted to entertainment. It’s a more real relationship between people, without the common hierarchy that often separates the public from the artist. We intend to create horizontal experiences. When every soul is important to make it all happens in harmony we can transcend everyday life,” said Balde. The movement has undertaken smaller actions, through which they seek to put their ideas into practice whenever they can. “In April this year, we raised R$1,400 through the auction of skateboards painted by local artists during the Zons Festival 2013 which we then donated to Instituto Canto Vivo (an environmental non profit organisation). The charity used the donation to buy seedlings from to the Atlantic Forest which could be used in the reforestation process in the city of Campo do Brito,” said Balde. The Zons Movement contributes directly to social change that provides a new look at the city and encourages people to be part of this process by supporting other initiatives. An example is their support of Pedal da Madruga, who are one of the groups promoting bicycles as an alternative means of transport, and who runs daily bike tours of the city.

PERSPECTIVES

The designers, photographers, cultural producers, musicians, sound engineers and others who are part of the Zons movement are part of a hyper-connected generation awakening quickly to new values

Many challenges remain to be overcome, especially regarding the logistics of Zons. Finding suitable spaces for events and recording sessions, building relationships with artists and staff and marketing the movement to the public and bureaucratic issues consume the time and energy of the Zons team. The movement’s development seems to be aligned with the mentality of the public itself, who have been receptive to the dynamism of ideas in recent years. The success of the Zons Movement is in their hands, they are inspiring others to put their own ideas into practice. They all end up combining in the union of skills and strength to a create collective realisation. The second edition of Zons Festival, will take place on 13 December, is expected to see an increase in attendance of 30% on last year. To learn more about this experience go to facebook.com/zonsprojeto.

This article was produced by Helen Brüseke, a student of the Letters course of Federal University of Sergipe, in partnership with the CONECTANDO Project, developed by Brasil Observer with Brazilian and European universities. To participate and have your article published in this newspaper, write to conectando@brasilobserver.co.uk

A S I L V E R

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Brazilian rapper and soul singer makes his third visit to London and performs for his growing UK audience >> Pgs. 22 & 23

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CRIOLO ON STAGE

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Criolo is coming to town Hot on the release of his third album, the Brazilian rapper is heading to London for a show at the Village Underground, on 22 January; he speaks exclusively to Brasil Observer and tells us why he loves the “endless encounters and possibilities” music provides By Guilherme Reis

Three years after shaking the Brazilian music scene with the album Nó Na Orelha (Knot In The Ear), Brazilian rapper Criolo launched one of the most anticipated albums of 2014: Convoque Seu Buda (Convoke Your Buddha), his third studio record on 3 November. Without much hype, or glamour, the material was released in full to download for free on the singer’s website, direct and delivered straight to the audience, like all good rap music should be. It is not, however, strictly a rap album. Of course, the singer’s original genre is represented there, in songs such as “Convoque Seu Buda”, “Esquiva da Esgrima”, “Plano de Voo” and “Duas de Cinco”. But there are lots of other styles such as samba, reggae and forró, which form the general framework of an album that embraces the versatility of Brazilian popular music and the singer himself, who moves easily along these paths that are seemingly unconnected. All this diversity can be appreciated by the British audience on 22 January, when Criolo will perform at the Village Underground in Shoreditch. It will be the third time that the singer takes to the stage in the UK capital. He made his British debut in 2012, during the Back 2 Black festival, and then returned last year, when he performed with Mulatu Astake at the London Jazz Festival. Speaking over email to Brasil Observer about this expectations for the performance, Criolo said, “these invitations are rare and special, and it is not always so easy to move. There have been situations where we could not go. So it’s always great when we have everything right. So we try to make the most of these opportunities to try to build a new audience, show our work and make the best of this exchange.” TO THE NEW GENERATION Criolo is not a boy. At 39 years of age, he carries the experience of a long history in rap and knows the difficulties artists face. Ironically, his Nó Na Orelha album was originally created as a farewell record, but it elevated the singer to a leading role within the emerging New Brazilian Popular Music. Criolo probably did not expect that and he probably disagrees with the statement above. But it is a fact proven by the recognition of big names on the national scene, including Caetano Veloso, Chico Buarque, Ney Matogrosso and Milton Nascimen-

to, with whom he had the opportunity to collaborate. And of course, the recognition of the public, especially a younger generation who have a strong reverence for the classics of the past, and often feel certain creative vapidness in contemporary music. The rapper fills that void with a lot of talent that speaks directly to a generation that grew and continues to grow up in the chaos of Brazil’s big cities. He raps about the inequality that strikes the eye, the stupid consumerism of material goods and drugs (legal or illegal) and the lack of love. The new album features numerous references to concerns raised during the 2013 demonstrations in Brazil, such as the violent evictions made by police and the dangers experienced by those who are on the streets because of astronomical property prices. “We are living in an extremely hostile period, which was not created much less fed by this generation who want a better society,” Criolo says. “We cannot lose hope in the human being, because otherwise how it will be the life of our grandchildren? “All of us are able to build something positive, but an environment that encourages and facilitates this construction process is far from being really democratic. While there is inequality, there will be suffering. We started talking about the possibilities of how this may change, but receive support to actually build these changes are really much better to talk about it”. TO THE WORLD Born in Grajaú, a peripheral neighbourhood in São Paulo, Criolo’s music speaks to the world. If all Londoners could understand Portuguese, certainly they would identify with the rapper’s lyrics because here people the live in the grips of the machine as much as the people there – albeit in a less evident way. In this sense, the songs of Criolo give voice to feelings that are often reserved, stored within the box of order and acceptance of things as they are. Criolo seems to agree. “The desire is always to be able to express something, no matter the way. More than just a return album or selling tickets, the good thing is to know that the music allows endless encounters and possibilities. “I believe that when the music is made with pure sincerity of your heart, no matter how elaborate or innocent it is, it will reach another heart and it nourishes the others with hope. From then what happens escapes our control”.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

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CRIOLO When:22 January Where: Village Underground Tickets: £16.50 Info: www.villageunderground.co.uk

Criolo’s new album, Convoque Seu Buda is available to download for free at www.criolo.net

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

BOOKS Ex Cathedra

Machado de Assis

Machado de Assis is Brazil’s most renowned writer and critics, including Harold Bloom and Susan Sontag, consider him the most important Latin American writer. He has been compared with Twain, Tolstoy, Flaubert, Sterne, and more than a dozen other literary greats. Ex Cathedra is a collection of 21 new

translations of de Assis’ short stories. Most have never before been published in English. The translators are scholars from three continents. This bilingual edition presents the original Portuguese on one side of each spread, the English translation on the other. This format proves useful to scholars comparing the languages and to students of Portuguese

or English. And of course lovers of literature will appreciate every story for their detailed realism and their flights of surrealism. In the words of Nigel Planer for The Guardian website about the book: “Witty, subversive and beautifully constructed tales from turn-ofthe-century Brazil”.

powerful empires in a struggle to survive in freedom. Over the span of the 17th century, the Quilombo dos Palmares melded several cultures to form its own language, religion, government, values, and way of life. Its population may have exceeded 20,000. Its last king is believed to have been an educated descendant of slaves. He took the name Zumbi – Lord of War – and built a citadel fortress on a mountain in northeast

Brazil. There Palmares made its last stand. Quilombos – isolated societies of fugitive slaves – still exist in Brazil, and the struggle for their land continues. Palmares and Zumbi have grown to become myths and symbols of resistance to racism, tyranny, capitalism, and national pride. Cheney does not let Palmares die in 1694. He brings it to life – and relevance – in modern Brazil.

Quilombo dos Palmares Glenn Alan Cheney

Glenn Alan Cheney’s comprehensive history of Palmares and the colonial captaincy of Pernambuco, Brazil, explores the origins and of slavery, the warfare between Palmares, Portugal, and Holland, life in the rebel nation, and the siege that wiped Palmares off the map. For almost a hundred years, a nation of fugitive Africans, Indians, whites, and mixed races fought off the world’s most

EXHIBITIONS Concret Poetry

Stephen Bann | Cambridge University until 15 March

The Centre of Latin American Studies at Cambridge University is hosting a new exhibition with works from the personal collection of Stephen Bann relating to close exchanges between Cambridge and Brazilian poets in the 1960s. This show has been designed to mark the 50th Anniversary of the first international exhibition of concrete, kinetic and phonic poetry held in the Rushmore rooms, St Catharine’s College, Cambridge from 28 November to 5 December 1964, organised by Stephen Bann, Reg Gadney, Philip Steadman and Mike Weaver. Among over ninety works shown at the week

-long exhibition were poems sent from Brazil by Ronaldo Azeredo, Augusto de Campos, Haroldo de Campos, José Lino Grunewald and Décio Pignatari of the Noigandres group and from Edgard Braga, Luiz Angelo Pinto and Pedro Xisto. A symposium about 1960’s concrete poetry, its context and lineage will be held in association with Kettle’s Yard on Saturday 14 February 2015 from 11.30am-5pm at the Alison Richard Building. The programme will include presentations from Professor Stephen Bann, Dr Viviane Carvalho da Annunciação, Dr Greg Thomas, University of Edinburgh and Ann Noël Williams.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

Road Trip

Tony Roche Embassy of Brazil in London until 9 January

The Embassy of Brazil, in partnership with the UpDown Gallery, hosts Tony Roche’s exhibition Road Trip. A longtime follower of Oscar Niemeyer’s work, Tony Roche has travelled the world to see the amazing buildings created by one of his heroes. The exhibition will feature a piece entitled ‘Remembering Oscar Niemeyer’, which combines the artist’s unique style with images of Niemeyer’s buildings, creating a truly spellbinding work. A selection of personal photographs from his trips all over the world will be on display together with another piece, the ‘Memory Cabinet’.

ALBUMS Cabolco

Pierre Aderne

Pierre Aderne may be a relatively new name to the UK but he has already performed with Ben Harper and recorded with Madeleine Peyroux and Melody Gardot. He has written songs for Seu Jorge and toured with Vinícius Cantuária. His beautiful new album Caboclo (a word denoting some one of mixed Brazilian and European heritage) was recorded between New York, Rio de Janiero, Paris and Lisbon. Aderne grew up hearing “Águas de março” from Tom Jobim, through João Gilberto’s beautiful voice. He brings Rio de Janeiro wherever he travels all over the world, collecting small souvenirs of the cultures through where he passes. Born in France, but raised in Brazil, now living in Portugal, Pierre Aderne bridges different worlds of music with the ease that comes from his multicultural life and career. Caboclo is his first album to be released in the UK (after releases in Brasil, Portugal and Japan) and it’s beguiling, gentle and melodic take on new bossa is set to put Aderne firmly on the map here and international. Packaged in a strikingly designed sleeve, Caboclo features duets with Melody Gardot and Tito Paris, a song co-written with Madeleine Peyroux and collaborations with some of the very greatest jazz and world musicians: Philippe Baden Powell, Vinícius Cantuária, Kenny Wollesen, Dan Rieser, Chuck Staab, Eivind Opswik.

Trabalhos Carnívoros Gui Amabis

Celebrated Brazilian songwriter, producer and multi -instrumentalist Gui Amabis delivers Trabalhos Carnivoros, is an opus of cinematic-folk and his attempt to join the dots between Darwinism, sex and love. His previous album Memorias Luso/Africanas, released by Mais Um Discos in 2013, featured Lucas Santtana, Criolo, Céu and Tulipa, yet with deeply personal subject matter on his new album Amabis had to be the one to tell these tales: “My previous album told the story of Brazil and so needed different voices, yet on Trabalhos the lyrics are based on my experiences, me, trying to make sense of my life”. At the time of recording the album, Amabis was listening to Brazilian folk legend Dorival Caymmi, Turkish rocker Erkin Koray and Scottish troubadour Donovan and Trabalhos Carnivoros wears their influences proudly with it’s introspective, atmospheric sombre intensity. It was a brave move by Amabis to shoulder all vocal duties himself, and his melancholic delivery is the perfect foil to the spooky reverbed guitars, echoing silence and rhythmic claustrophobia that he and his long-term musical partner Regis Damasceno, Dustan Gallas and Samuel Fraga have crafted alongside contributions from Nacao Zumbi’s Dengue and Pupillo, and Thiago França from Meta Meta.

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brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

FRANKO FIGUEIREDO

Franko Figueiredo is artistic director and associate producer of StoneCrabs Theatre Company

Opening wide the doors of perception Different stories from different communities need to be told. Some communities are less visible than others, and this can lead to ignorance of the contribution these communities have on society, and eventually misunderstanding and prejudice Dilma Rousseff ’s re-election exposed how much Brazil is steeped in misunderstanding and prejudice. Statistics have shown most of the incumbent president’s voters live in the northeast and this lead to those in the south and southeast regions to demonize them, and accuse them of stupidity. In the media, particularly on social media, abuse and prejudice were freely displayed. An image of a map of Brazil that circulated showed a dividing wall between the north and south of the country. Pitiful self-made videos were uploaded showing people angry, demanding intervention. Dilma had only won by a small margin of votes. However, by not accepting the results of a democratic process, the protesters came across like spoiled children throwing a tantrum for not getting what they wanted. Some took to the streets led by political micromanagers calling for a military regime to intervene, for a new dictatorship. It was hardly a mass movement, I must admit. Nevertheless, it had me concerned. Brazil’s 21-year dictatorship which took power in the 1960s is less well known abroad than that of Chile or Argentina, but it was still brutal. Hundreds died and thousands were imprisoned and tortured. While Brazil’s rulers that time were less murderous than those in other South American countries, our dictatorship became a blueprint for fascist regime change. Democracy was finally restored in 1989 and as Brazil marks five decades since the coup this year, the legacy of human rights abuse disturbingly seems to remain in place. The first 17 years of my life were spent during the dictatorship, governed by military personnel such as Emílio Médici and Ernesto Geisel, who wanted individuals to adapt to the new social order. The state government embarked on a manipulation of all institutions, including media and educational ones. Much of the content published in school textbooks was used to shape the political, econo-

mic and social fabric of an entire generation. Many artists and journalists tried to overcome this situation, but were often suppressed by the regime. In the 1980s, television became, as it continues to be, a strong marketing tool for those running the country. And when you are fed with so much propaganda, it becomes increasingly difficult to have a balanced and critical view of your social and political environment. I had a painful awakening as I left Brazil to settle in England. As a theatre-maker I found myself studying different political arguments found in British and Spanish dramaturgy. That exercise made me realise that my knowledge of history was pretty much selective, prejudiced and geared towards the ultimate political goal of the country I had been raised in: to shape the behaviour and convince the people about the benefits of the military regime and its ethics. Back then, I didn’t know any different, but I carried with me an inexplicable sense of unease and worry. I remember when my history teacher didn’t turn up to class one day; she went missing for a few days only to reappear after being hospitalised from a horrific beating. No one was allowed to question or discuss the case, although we suspected foul play because she had already been warned for displaying ‘left-wing tendencies’. After her period of hospitalisation she did return to school, only to follow the curriculum quite strictly. Sadly she had lost her spark and was never quite the same teacher. I also remember a meeting with the school governors to explain a poem I had written for the school’s annual contest. I was told my poem displayed too much communist imagery and, although it received most votes, it was disqualified and every copy destroyed. These are only a couple of examples plucked from many acts that may appear insignificant, but to me spells censorship. So when people take to the streets and call for the return of a dictatorship, they either disregard or know nothing of what it’s like to

live under the threat and oppression of a dictatorship. The vestiges of that regime remain imprinted in us: we have become our worst censors. All of this highlights how vital it is to be in touch with one’s real history, rather than the history that those in power want us to adopt and it gives much significance to oral history projects such as Brasiliance. Oral history tries to capture the stories of ordinary people talking about everyday events, which help to fill the gaps of untold histories that are not recorded in official historical documents. We need to ensure that different stories, from different communities, are recorded. Some communities are less visible than others, and this leads to ignorance of the contribution these communities are giving to our society, which in turn leads to misunderstanding and prejudice. The Brasiliance team recorded eleven interviews of Brazilians living in London since the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. The idea stemmed from the need to give more visibility to the small but growing minority of Brazilians in the UK, to record their stories and uncover the part they have played and are playing in the wider social context. The educational materials produced from this project are being adopted in secondary schools, and are available in archives and libraries, such as the British Library and the Institute of Latin American Studies. This is particularly important when the current UK government, supported by many right wing media, tries to blame economic failure on immigration and forgets to highlight the fact that immigrants also play a strong role in the social and economics of the UK. Brazil doesn’t need military intervention, what it needs are governmental directives that prioritise education more holistically: embracing identity, meaning and purpose in life through connections with the community, cultural activities, respect for the natural world and humanitarian values such as equality, compassion and peace.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

BIANCA BRUNOW & MARIELLE MACHADO

The way we wear it To escape from the dependency on this brand or that, the solution is to improve the way we look at things g

We already said that the concept of the column is finding inspiration in everything, and to try to improve the way we look at things so we are able to bring the impossible into reality - even if we don’t have the money to buy Chanel all the time. We believe that most fashion publications are taken too seriously, and help to create a slave society - not to trends - but to things. Women, in general, are not the most conscious

consumers on the planet, so we decided to challenge ourselves and try to reproduce our latest inspirations, but without having to run to the shops. Each of us reproduced a different inspirational look in our own way: Bia tried to get inspired with colour, while Teka reproduced the outfit a bit more literally - trying to show that there are similar items that are not a copy, and can work as well as a more expensive one. Do you think it will work?

Bianca Brunow and Marielle Machado continue this conversation on www.musicaparavestir.co.uk

THE WAY BIA WEARS IT

THE WAY TEKA WEARS IT Personal Archive and Reproduction

My inspiration came from Instagram. Krystin Lee is the Canadian behind the blog Suburban Faux Pas, and the biggest challenge of having her as inspiration is the difference between the weather where she lives and where I live. I like her because her style is very diverse classic, casual, sporty, romantic - but with lots of personality. It’s the kind of eclecticism that I want for myself. I used the same colour palette, but in a different way. The floral skirt, the trench coat and the classic shoes are the black and white part of it. To play with hints of colour, I put on some burgundy lipstick and a handbag in the same shade - since I don’t have that wonderful jacket Krystin is wearing. I think it looked quite different from the original, but you can get the same idea. I can see the influence, can you?

Bia: “Serious colours without being boring”

Teka: “My literal reproduction”

My inspiration came from the ASOS Fashion Finder website. I have my own profile and always like to look for inspiring outfit ideas there. And that’s how I came across Victoria Villasana, from the blog Style Marmalade. She is Mexican but lives here in London, and I just love all the colours and texture combinations she manages to form when she gets dressed. This particular photo reminded me of a skirt that was forgotten in the depths of my closet. It’s a midi skirt (how could I have forgotten it when my obsession with midi skirts only gets bigger and bigger?) made with a very thin fabric, great for summer days. And coincidentally, I had just bought this red cropped sweatshirt and was thinking of nice ways I could wear it!

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

RICARDO SOMERA

Turning 30 with cinema and music Reaching ‘maturity’ is a great excuse to continue doing whatever you like – even a little excess if you so desire g

Ricardo Somera is advertiser and you can find him on Twitter @souricardo and Instagram @outrosouricardo

Those that have stepped over the border into their thirties know: it is not a simple crossing. Many questions, many doubts and few certainties... and that’s not a bad thing, it’s good! I took advantage of this moment of change (what a great excuse) and took the time to reflect upon my life with film and music. As nothing in my life is by chance, in my customary “Monday at the cinema”, I checked out the feature film Trinta (which means thirty), directed by Paulo Machline, about the life of the carnival maker João Jorge Trinta, better known as Joãozinho Trinta. And during a lightning trip to Rio de Janeiro, I saw the last concert of the 30-years tour of one of the most important Brazilian bands: Paralamas do Sucesso. For lovers of carnival and samba, Trinta is a plate full of references to a time that will never return. A time when samba schools’ ma-

drinha de bateria (the most important position during the parade, ahead of the drums) had a real relationship with the community - and who in fact was chosen by vote. A time when the carnival’s creativity was high above the sponsorship of the big brands, although it already carried the controversial influence of the bicheiros (who runs an illegal number game called Jogo do Bicho) who took care of the schools. Trinta, in a simple way, documents the trajectory of one of the biggest names in Brazilian art; Joãzinho Trinta. The story is guided from the 1974 carnival, when Joãozinho debuted as carnavalesco (carnival maker) at Salgueiro’s samba school with the classic samba Rei da França na Ilha da Assombração. Between flashbacks, we see his rise from Sao Luis city to Rio de Janeiro and the glory that follows. I have to confess something: I could not hold back the tears when

the carnival arrives. For me, it is the best Brazilian film of the year, alongside A Despedida (Farewell), directed by Marcelo Galvão. Yet in the Marvellous City, the line-up was intense: Criolo, Metronomy, Gang do Electro and Silva. But the best decision was the closing show of the 30 years’ tour of the Paralamas do Sucesso. It’s true that in recent years I haven’t been following the group that was part of my adolescence so intensely, but it made no great difference since the show was an overview of all the years on the road. Songs like Loirinha Bombril, A Novidade, Óculos, and Alagados. Bi Ribeiro, Hebert Vianna and João Barone can still make the crowd jump and sing along, regardless of age. It was epic and beautiful and made me create a playlist on Spotify to remember it by. After all, I think I’m going to need to find the energy for 30 more carnivals to come.

EVEROY JOHNSON

Tips on starting your own business This is the period of the year when we start thinking about the future and for some of us that brings thought of running our own business. Here Everoy Johnson shares some advice to make sure this decision, which could be the best one you make in your life, doesn’t turn into the most disastrous one This is the time of year when a lot of new business ideas are being formulated. Over time we’ve grown used to hearing of product launches and new businesses with the start of each new calendar year. With thoughts turning to the future and an increased awareness of our life aims, in these months leading up to the New Year, it seems that most people who wish to start a new venture are formulating those ideas and planning. The Christmas period that we have to relax and enjoy some leisure time appears to encourage the brain that we should take the opportunity to do more of this. We find ourselves asking “Why do we work for a firm or a boss that does not give us the time and freedom

that we crave?” We have the creative skills to venture out on our own and build our own empire and so the plot begins. There is a very serious point here in that this stage is also an essential time to plan carefully for what could be the greatest move in our lives or the most disastrous. I have assisted many Start Up businesses and know the things you need to consider to do so well. Firstly I find it important to tell any would-be entrepreneur that the planning stage is more important than the launch of the venture and the first day of opening. The planning stage gives you the opportunity to imagine and cater for all the eventualities that you might encounter in running your

own business and the chance to build in ways of overcoming predicted problems. Being part of a team is great but when you are the only one at the top of your business it can be a lonely place especially if you are unprepared. Here some basic steps to consider before start up: • Plan how you will undertake and deliver your product or service. • How will you attract your target customers away from their existing supplier? • How do you stop your competition from legally and fairly removing you from the market and leaving your and your business in shatters? • How will you gain investment and fund your business?

Everoy Johnson is owner of Atex Business Solutions

• How will you recruit and develop staff? • Where should your venture be located? • Will you require a licence or is there certain industry compliance that you have to obtain? • How will you make your target customers aware of your existence? • Profit and loss analysis • Risk Assessment All of these steps are extremely important to shape your ideas into real possibilities. But more than everything, in the planning stage you should make a personal assessment to decide if running your own business will provide you with the future lifestyle you want.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

The LUKAS 2015 are coming!

The latin uk awards The UK's Biggest Celebration of Latin American, Spanish and Portuguese Culture. Get your tickets for the LUKAS Gala Ceremony @ KOKO 13th May 2015

Nominate a candidate for outstanding contribution to Music, Dance, Sports, Food, The Arts, Business and Society. Voting starts February 1st 2015. Make sure the most deserving are there.

Nominate a candidate now!

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

5 Brazilian paradises to discover in 2015

Divulgation

Barreirinhas and Lençóis Maranhenses, Maranhão “Barreirinhas is a fairly non-descript and sprawly town on the banks of the River Preguiças, however, it is also the ideal place to begin your trip to Lençóis Maranhenses. And if you decide to stay on the other side of the river like I did, the only noises are the rustling of leaves and the birds singing you really can relax in peace.” Alison recommends arriving from São Luís – from there you can take the 7am van which picks you up from your pousada or hotel and will get you to your accommodation in Barreirinhas by midday, just in time for lunch before a sunset trip to the dunes, which departs at 2pm. The ideal time to visit is between July and November. That’s when the lagoons are at their fullest and the views are breathtaking - soft rippling sand dunes and inviting blue pools stretch out to the horizon. “Just don’t forget your hat, sunscreen and insect repellent!”

Barra Grande, Piauí “Barra Grande is just like Jericoacoara was 20 years ago,” says Alison McGowan. This simple fishing village is just starting to make a name for itself, thanks to its beautiful pousadas, spectacular beaches and ideal conditions for kite-surfing. “This is not the place to come if you’re looking for nightlife, but what you will find is paradise – blue skies, hot sand and ice cold beer.” Barra Grande is an hour and a half from Parnaiba, and while it’s not the easiest place to get to, Alison describes her time there as ‘bliss’, waking up to the sound of rolling waves and spending her afternoons in beach bars enjoying fish soup, beer and fabulous views of the kite surfers and their incredible manoeuvres. While in Piauí, Alison also recommends a side trip to Parque Nacional Serra da Capivara. “There you’ll find tens of thousands of rock paintings, some of which date back to 29,000 years before Christ. It’s absolutely incredible.” Where to stay

Terra Patris Atellier (terrapatris.com.br)

“This pousada is simply beautiful. It’s only three thatched bungalows with a circular reception and lounge area and a large, inviting swimming pool. There’s wi-fi throughout, excellent music and a wonderful feel to the place. It’s owned by Nathalia and her husband Marco, two wonderfully warm Paulistas who managed to escape the rat race of corporate life.”

Where to stay

Sossego do Cantinho (sossegodocantinho.com.br)

“This is definitely the best place to stay in the area. Set on the riverbank, this place offers peace and quiet, but the bars, restaurants and shops are only 15 minutes walk and a pedestrian ferry away.” The intimate pousada only has four bungalows, but they’re all spacious and light with rustic tiled floors, large beds, big bathrooms, air-conditioning, mosquito nets, fridges and cable TV.

brasilobserver.co.uk | December 14/January 15

With winter fast approaching, who isn’t already dreaming of a holiday in the Brazilian sunshine? Alison McGowan, owner of bespoke travel company HiddenPousadasBrazil. com, tells us about the country’s secluded gems that should be on the top of your travel list By Christian Taylor

Icaraizinho de Amontada, Ceará

Chapada Diamantina, Bahia

Santana dos Montes, Minas Gerais

“With vistas made up of beaches, dunes and lagoons, this is an idyllic place where all you can hear is the sound of the wind and the waves,” says Alison. “You still won’t find Icaraizinho de Amontada on most maps but it lies on the coast of Ceará, 198 km north of Fortaleza.” In fact, Alison only discovered the place by accident about four years ago, while driving along the deserted beaches of Maranhão, Piauí and Ceará by 4×4. Alison describes this small fishing village as a place “where everyone knows each other, with a church, a village square and a bar which is perfect for relaxing with a beer while gazing out to sea”. When you’re done relaxing, there’s plenty to do, like kite-surfing, taking a buggy trip across the dunes at sunset, enjoying fresh seafood at Ze’s local restaurant or sipping caipirinhas on the river Aracatiassu. If you don’t have a car, your pousada can organise an airport transfer from Fortaleza to Icaraizinho for R$ 350, or you can hire a beach buggy with a driver for the day for R$ 600. There’s also the FretCar bus which leaves Fortaleza daily at 2pm.

Of course, there are some wonderful destinations inland too. Chapada Diamantina in Bahia, five hours drive west of Salvador, offers nature in abundance, including hikes, waterfalls and caves to explore. There are two towns that are excellent starting points from which to explore the national park – Lençóis and Palmeiras. “This is an extraordinary place – the curious flat topped mountains and ridges date back billions of years and were once at the bottom of the ocean. The Capão Valley itself is 1000 metres high and the temperature is lower than the coast of Bahia, averaging 19°C year round.”

“This is a great stop off point for historic towns like Tiradentes and Ouro Preto - but you will need a car. Visitors can go swimming in the waterfalls, natural pools and lakes, enjoy the horseback or bicycle tours, or go walking in the mountains.”

Where to stay

Casa Zulu (casazulu.com)

“South African / French run Pousada Casa Zulu has six suites in total, all set amongst leafy tropical gardens”. Guests can expect comfort, with air-conditioning, flat -screen TVs, large box spring beds and excellent power showers in every chalet. “What I love best about this pousada is that the beach is on your doorstep, there’s a lovely swimming pool and they are located right in the centre of the village. There’s a friendly international atmosphere and it’s superb value for money which makes it perfect for solos, kite surfers and families alike.”

Where to stay

Lagoa das Cores (lagoadascores.com.br)

“This is a magical place! Owners Marcos and Vania manage to combine eco-friendly principles with warmth, comfort and style - all in one of the most beautiful places on earth, surrounded by mountains, peace and quiet. Some rooms even have a fireplace for those cold evenings after a dip in the hot tub.” There are 12 suites with some overlooking the mountains. All are well-appointed with beds, hot showers, locally produced soaps and aromatic pillows.

Where to stay

Fazenda Santa Marina (fazendasantamarina.com.br)

“This is a 19th century rural estate, lovingly restored to its former glory by the Bernardi and Capistrano families. Surrounded by rolling green hills, this fazenda offers guests plenty of space, beauty and luxury, along with king sized beds, solar heated showers and designer toiletries. There’s also fabulous home cooked food, a pool, a sauna, and wonderful Indian spa treatments. There’s also no internet or mobile phone access here, although you’ll probably consider this an advantage in a place as magical as this.”

Find Christian Taylor at www.ilikewords.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @xian_taylor

BRASIL OBSERVER

WISHES YOU A MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A HAPPY NEW YEAR! Our next edition runs on February, but you can keep in touch with us online: www.brasilobserver.co.uk | facebook.com/brasilobserver | @brasilobserver | issuu.com/brasilobserver

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