AUGUST 2019
STOCKHOLM
Holidays that make a difference MILAN
Rossana Orlandi: design doyenne WASHINGTON, D.C.
Will the future ?be meat-free
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اﻹﺟﺎزة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺠﻤﻊ اﻟﻤﺘﻌﺔ
واﻻﻛﺘﺸﺎف ﻣﻊ ﺧﺪﻣﺔ اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺔ
ﻣﻴﻼﻧﻮ
روﺳﺎﻧﺎ أورﻻﻧﺪي :ﻋﻤﻴﺪة
ﻓﻦ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻴﻼﻧﻮ
اﻟﺪوﺣﺔ
إﺑﺪاﻋﺎت اﻟﺠﻴﻞ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻮاﻫﺐ اﻟﻘﻄﺮﻳﺔ
Trends
اﺗﺠﺎﻫﺎت ﺟﺪﻳﺪة
A HOLIDAY M AKING A DIFFERENCE
Tap into one of the year’s biggest travel trends – conscious tourism – on a Biosphere Expeditions trip. We travelled to Dalarna, Sweden, to experience a wildlife break like no other as a citizen scientist WORDS SAM MITTMERHAM
STOCKHOLM
WE APPROACH THE bear den slowly and quietly. Somewhere in the vast forest around us a twig snaps. We freeze in our tracks and my heart misses a beat. I gaze anxiously towards Andrea, our leader and bear scientist. She looks around, shakes her head and gives the all clear. I relax and continue towards the den, negotiating my way over rough terrain in this magical forest in Dalarna, Sweden, four hours from Stockholm. Mosses and lichen drape a thick carpet over stones and boulders. Tall pines and spruces stand like giant soldiers all about, infusing us with the earthen smell of wood and grass. Mist swirls across the ground as the sun asserts itself into a glorious midsummer day. My GPS guides me towards the den and as I crest the rolling hill, I can see it. Empty. No bear to be seen. So, to work we go. We are exploring this forest wilderness in Sweden as part of a citizen science project with Biosphere Expeditions. Our aim: to help conserve the brown bears that still roam this part of the world. Biosphere Expeditions, founded in 1999, is a non-profit wildlife conservation NGO and a leader in conscious travel. We are lucky to have its founder, Dr Matthias Hammer, a biologist trained at Oxford and Cambridge, lead our expedition. “Our planet is in crisis,” he says, “and we want to empower people to do something about it, by getting hands-on with wildlife conservation projects all over the world.” Indeed, the NGO works around the planet on projects involving snow leopards in Kyrgyzstan, coral reefs in
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Above: Participants found and documented bear winter dens and summer day beds
the Maldives, wolves in Germany, sea turtles in Costa Rica and much more. “The beautiful thing about biology is that it’s a lot of stamp collecting,” explains Dr Hammer. “There is no computer or drone that can count and assess bear dens – and there are lots of them. We can train people in a day or two to perform the scientific tasks around the den – measure it, describe it, look for bear signs and so on. It is easy to morph into a citizen scientist in a day and the more we have, the more data we can gather, the better we can protect the bears. So people can really help for a week or two in their holiday time, whatever their previous background.”
Right: The Dalarna province offers picturesque and quintessentially Scandinavian countryside
“WE WANT TO EMPOWER PEOPLE TO GET HANDS-ON WITH WILDLIFE CONSERVATION PROJECTS ALL OVER THE WORLD“
Above left: One of the lodges at which participants stayed during the expedition
Above right: Citizen scientists trekking through the countryside during the expedition
STOCKHOLM
It makes sense, I find myself thinking. And on the ground, in the forest, it does. The learning curve is steep, but after a couple of days I really feel like I am contributing; that my holiday has a purpose beyond relaxation and pampering. It feels great, especially because it’s not just lip service. In its 20-year history, Biosphere Expeditions has been involved in creating protected areas on four continents, stopping the destruction of wilderness and wildlife, and being an advocate for our beleaguered planet and its natural environments. I am proud to be part of this story. But this story is not a holiday in the usual sense. “Science is not safari,” says Dr Hammer, his hands and knees dirty as he emerges from a bear den he has just measured on the inside together with Jan, a citizen scientist from Germany. “They won’t serve you wildlife experiences on a plate, but they will immerse you in wildlife conservation and teach you so much,” Jan agrees. “I’ve learnt a lot about bear biology, how to use a GPS and a relascope [a tool to measure tree dimensions], record scientific data, drive off-road and so much more. For me it
really is a holiday with a purpose and a conscience.” Indeed, some have argued that consciousness is the new luxury when it comes to travel. On a planet rapidly running out of resources, there is no doubt a need to stop consuming so much and to find a new way to define luxury – one that gives back to the planet. “Conscious and responsible travel is perhaps one of the biggest trends in travel recently,” says Dr Hammer. “That’s great for us, for wildlife and definitely kinder to the planet.” Biosphere Expeditions clearly wants to be kind to the planet and its inhabitants. I was impressed, for example, that only vegetarian food was served on the expedition because, as it states on the Biosphere Expeditions website, “The United Nations has identified vegetarianism as one of the major ways to reduce impact; it has also concluded that a global shift toward a vegetarian or vegan diet is necessary to combat the worst effects of climate change.” Back at the picturesque expedition base, there is an open fire and cabins straight out of a Swedish picture
ON TREND FOR 2019 Conscious tourism is not the only trend to shape the way we are exploring the world this year
GOING SOLO
SHORT BUT SWEET
LIFELONG LEARNING
Forget hotels when travelling alone and try “co-living” – luxe apartment complexes with shared spaces, cafés and workshops. WeLive and Roam are leading the way.
“Micro trips” are on the rise, with travellers seeking to squeeze more into their free time on weekends. Unusual accommodation is often a draw – anyone up for a holiday in a yurt?
Travel teaches life skills – and many travellers are seeking to take this further by organising trips with purpose. Think volunteering, cultural exchanges and skills-based holidays.
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STOCKHOLM
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Within days our group of 10 people, an expedition leader and an expedition scientist, have formed into a team bound by a common goal and understanding. When we go out again tomorrow into these enchanting woods, it will be with a spring in our step and not a little trepidation about meeting a bear on his home ground – and sure enough the next day a group observes a bear crossing the road in front of them. But most of all with the knowledge that we are here to help these magnificent creatures survive and thrive in the wild. This really is the best way to spend a holiday. biosphere-expeditions.org
QATAR AIRWAYS FLIES TWICE DAILY FROM DOHA TO STOCKHOLM AND FIVE TIMES WEEKLY FROM DOHA TO GOTHENBURG
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MORE FROM BIOSPHERE EXPEDITIONS 1 Head to Portugal in April 2020 to assist in a survey of whales, dolphins and turtles in the Azores archipelago, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. 2 In November 2019, a group of citizen scientists will take part in a diving expedition to investigate the coral reefs of the remote and mountainous Musandam peninsula of Oman. 3 Join an expedition to the Maasai Mara in Kenya in February 2020 on a mission to protect the “Big Five” game animals and African biodiversity.
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GETTY IMAGES, ROBERTHARDING/BERND ZOLLER, SAM MITTMERHAM
book. It is conscious, not five-star, luxury, especially after a day in the woods carrying out our mission. That night, around the crackling open fire, expedition scientist Dr Andrea Friebe explains why our work is so vital to Sweden’s bear population. “Detailed knowledge about bear dens and denning behaviour is important, because it helps to avoid human-bear conflict and provides important population, reproductive and other ecological information,” she says. “And this is critical for successful bear conservation.” Without hard data, there is no basis for successful conservation. I get it and I get our role as citizen scientists in this process. So do my fellow expeditioners around the fire, their faces lit up by the flames that lick into the air. They nod and they ask questions that show they have understood.
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ﻋﺪﻧﺎ إﻟﻰ ﻗﺎﻋﺪة رﺣﻠﺘﻨﺎ اﻻﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﺨﻼﺑﺔ .اﻟﻨﺎر ﻣﻮﻗﺪة وﺳﻂ اﻟﻤﻜﺎن وﺣﻮﻟﻬﺎ ﻣﻘﺼﻮرات ﻓﻲ اﻟﻬﻮاء اﻟﻄﻠﻖ ،واﻟﻤﻨﻈﺮ ﻳﺒﺪو ﻛﻠﻮﺣﺔ ﺟﻤﻴﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻛﺘﺎب ﺳﻮﻳﺪي ﻟﻠﺮﺳﻮﻣﺎت .ﻫﺬه ﻫﻲ ﺣﻴﺎة اﻟﺮﻓﺎﻫﻴﺔ اﻟﻮاﻋﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﻘﻴﻘﻴﺔ ،إﻧﻬﺎ ﻟﻴﺴﺖ ﻣﻦ ﻓﺌﺔ اﻟﺨﻤﺲ ﻧﺠﻮم ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ، ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﻌﺪ ﺗﻤﻀﻴﺔ اﻟﻴﻮم ﻓﻲ اﻟﻐﺎﺑﺎت ﻟﺘﻨﻔﻴﺬ ﻣﻬﻤﺘﻨﺎ. ﻓﻲ ﺗﻠﻚ اﻟﻠﻴﻠﺔ ،اﺟﺘﻤﻌﻨﺎ ﺣﻮل اﻟﻨﺎر وﻧﺤﻦ ﻧﺴﻤﻊ أزﻳﺰ اﻷﻏﺼﺎن اﻟﻤﻠﺘﻬﺒﺔ ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ أﺧﺬ أﻧﺪرﻳﺎ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ اﻟﻤﺮاﻓﻖ ﻟﻠﺒﻌﺜﺔ ،ﻳﻮﺿﺢ أﻫﻤﻴﺔ ﻣﻬﻤﺘﻨﺎ ﻟﻠﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺒﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺪ ،وﻗﺎل "اﻟﻤﻌﺮﻓﺔ ﻓﺼﻴﻠﺔ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ّ اﻟﺘﻔﺼﻴﻠﻴﺔ ﺑﻌﺮاﺋﻦ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ واﻟﺴﻠﻮك اﻟﻤﺮﺗﺒﻂ ﺑﺈﻗﺎﻣﺔ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻌﺮاﺋﻦ أﻣﺮ ﻣﻬﻢ ،ﻷﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﺴﺎﻋﺪ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﺠﻨﺐ ﺣﺪوث ﺻﺮاع ﺑﻴﻦ اﻹﻧﺴﺎن واﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ،ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗﻮﻓﺮ ﻣﻌﻠﻮﻣﺎت ﻣﻬﻤﺔ ﻋﻦ أﻋﺪاد اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ وﺻﺤﺘﻬﺎ اﻹﻧﺠﺎﺑﻴﺔ ،وﻏﻴﺮﻫﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻌﻠﻮﻣﺎت ﻋﻦ اﻟﻨﻈﺎم اﻟﺒﻴﺌﻲ اﻟﻤﺘﻜﺎﻣﻞ .وﻫﺬه أﻣﻮر ﺣﺎﺳﻤﺔ ﻟﻨﺠﺎح ﻋﻤﻠﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ". ﻣﻦ دون ﺑﻴﺎﻧﺎت ﻓﻌﻠﻴﺔ ،ﻻ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ اﻟﺘﻘﺪم ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﺎرﻳﻊ اﻟﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺔ .ﻟﻘﺪ أدرﻛﺖ ﻫﺬا اﻷﻣﺮ ،وﺗﻔﻬﻤﺖ دورﻧﺎ ﻛﻤﻮاﻃﻨﻴﻦ ﻋﻠﻤﺎء ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻌﻤﻠﻴﺔ .وﻛﺬﻟﻚ ﻓﻌﻞ
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زﻣﻼﺋﻲ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﻌﺜﺔ ﻣﻤﻦ اﻟﺘﻔﻮا ﺣﻮل اﻟﻨﺎر ،وﻗﺪ أﺿﺎء وﻫﺠﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺘﺼﺎﻋﺪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻬﻮاء وﺟﻮﻫﻨﺎ .ﻛﺎﻧﻮا ﻳﻮﻣﺌﻮن ﺑﺮؤوﺳﻬﻢ ،وﻳﻄﺮﺣﻮن أﺳﺌﻠﺔ ﺗﻮﺿﺢ أﻧﻬﻢ ﻓﻬﻤﻮا اﻟﻤﻮﺿﻮع ﺟﻴﺪ ًا .ﺧﻼل أﻳﺎم ،ﺗﺤﻮﻟﺖ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺘﻨﺎ اﻟﻤﻜﻮﻧﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻋﺸﺮة أﺷﺨﺎص ،وﻗﺎﺋﺪ ﺑﻌﺜﺔ ،وﻋﺎﻟﻢ أﺣﻴﺎء ،إﻟﻰ ﻓﺮﻳﻖ ﻣﺘﻜﺎﻣﻞ ﻳﺴﻌﻰ ﻧﺤﻮ ﻫﺪف ﻣﺸﺘﺮك وﻓﻬﻢ ﻣﺸﺘﺮك .وﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻧﺨﺮج ﻣﻦ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻏﺪ ًا إﻟﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻐﺎﺑﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﺣﺮة ،ﺳﺘﻜﻮن ﺧﻄﻮاﺗﻨﺎ ﻗﻔﺰ ًا ﻣﻦ ﺷﺪة اﻟﺤﻤﺎﺳﺔ، وﺳﻴﻘﻞ ﺧﻮﻓﻨﺎ ﻣﻦ اﺣﺘﻤﺎل اﻻﻟﺘﻘﺎء ﺑﺪب ﻋﻠﻰ أرﺿﻪ، رﻏﻢ أﻧﻨﺎ ﺟﻤﻴﻌﺎً ﻧﺮﻏﺐ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﺎﻫﺪة دب وﻫﻮ ﻳﺘﺠﻮل ﻓﻲ اﻷﻧﺤﺎء .وﻟﻌﻞ اﻷﻫﻢ ﻣﻦ ﻛﻞ ﺷﻲء ﻫﻮ إدراﻛﻨﺎ ﺑﺄﻧﻨﺎ ﻫﻨﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻬﻤﺔ ﻟﻠﻤﺴﺎﻫﻤﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻘﺎء ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺨﻠﻮﻗﺎت اﻟﺒﺪﻳﻌﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻗﻴﺪ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة واﻟﻌﻴﺶ ﺑﺤﺮﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ .ﻫﺬه ﺣﻘﺎً أﻓﻀﻞ ﻃﺮﻳﻘﺔ ﻟﺘﻤﻀﻴﺔ اﻹﺟﺎزة.
biosphere-expeditions.org
ﺗﺴﻴّﺮ اﻟﺨﻄﻮط اﻟﺠﻮﻳﺔ اﻟﻘﻄﺮﻳﺔ رﺣﻠﺘﻴﻦ ﻳﻮﻣﻴ ًﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪوﺣﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺳﺘﻮﻛﻬﻮﻟﻢ
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اﻟﻤﺰﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ ﺑﻌﺜﺎت اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺎت اﻟﺤﻴﻮﻳﺔ -1ﺗﻮﺟﻬﻮا إﻟﻰ اﻟﺒﺮﺗﻐﺎل ﻓﻲ أﺑﺮﻳﻞ ﻋﺎم 2020ﻟﻠﻤﺴﺎﻫﻤﺔ ﻓﻲ إﺟﺮاء ﻣﺴﺢ ﻟﻠﺤﻴﺘﺎن واﻟﺪﻻﻓﻴﻦ واﻟﺴﻼﺣﻒ ﻓﻲ أرﺧﺒﻴﻞ ﺟﺰر اﻷزور وﺳﻂ اﻟﻤﺤﻴﻂ اﻷﻃﻠﺴﻲ -2 .ﻓﻲ ﻧﻮﻓﻤﺒﺮ ،2019ﺳﺘﺸﺎرك ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻮاﻃﻨﻴﻦ اﻟﻌﻠﻤﺎء ﻓﻲ رﺣﻠﺔ ﻻﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف اﻟﺸﻌﺎب اﻟﻤﺮﺟﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺷﺒﻪ ﺟﺰﻳﺮة ﻣﺴﻨﺪم اﻟﺠﺒﻠﻴﺔ اﻟﻨﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ُﻋﻤﺎن. -3اﻧﻀﻤﻮا إﻟﻰ رﺣﻠﺔ اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎﻓﻴﺔ إﻟﻰ ﻣﺎﺳﺎي ﻣﺎرا ﻓﻲ ﻛﻴﻨﻴﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻓﺒﺮاﻳﺮ 2020ﻓﻲ ﻣﻬﻤﺔ ﻟﺤﻤﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﺤﻴﻮاﻧﺎت اﻟﻀﺨﻤﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﺮف ﺑﺎﺳﻢ "اﻟﺨﻤﺴﺔ اﻟﻜﺒﺎر" واﻟﺘﻨﻮع اﻟﺒﻴﻮﻟﻮﺟﻲ ﻓﻲ أﻓﺮﻳﻘﻴﺎ.
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”اﻟﻤﻌﻠﻮﻣﺎت ﻋﻦ ﻋﺮاﺋﻦ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ وﺳﻠﻮﻛﻬﺎ ،أﻣﺮ ﻣﻬﻢ ﻟﻠﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺤﻴﻮاﻧﺎت ،وﻳﺴﺎﻋﺪ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺠﻨﺐ ﺣﺪوث ﺻﺮاع ﺑﻴﻨﻬﺎ وﺑﻴﻦ اﻹﻧﺴﺎن“
أﻋﻠﻰ ،ﻳﻤﻴﻦ :ﻳُﺪرب اﻟﻤﺸﺎرﻛﻮن ﻟﻴﺼﺒﺤﻮا ﻣﻮاﻃﻨﻴﻦ ﻋﻠﻤﺎء ﺧﻼل ﻳﻮم ،وﻳﻨﻔﺬوا ﻣﻬﻤﺎت ﻓﻲ اﻟﻐﺎﺑﺔ
أﻋﻠﻰ ،ﻳﺴﺎر :اﻟﻤﻘﺼﻮرات اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳﻘﻴﻢ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺸﺎرﻛﻮن ﻓﻲ اﻟﺮﺣﻼت ،ﺗﺒﺪو وﺳﻂ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ ﻛﻠﻮﺣﺔ ﺟﻤﻴﻠﺔ
ﺳﺘﻮﻛﻬﻮﻟﻢ
ﺟﻤﻌﻬﺎ ،ﻛﻠﻤﺎ ﺗﺤﺴﻨﺖ ﻗﺪرﺗﻨﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﻤﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ .ﻟﺬا ﻓﺎﻟﻨﺎس ﻳﻤﻜﻨﻬﻢ أن ﻳﺴﺎﻋﺪوا ﺣﻘﺎً ﺑﺘﺨﺼﻴﺺ أﺳﺒﻮع أو أﺳﺒﻮﻋﻴﻦ ﺧﻼل إﺟﺎزاﺗﻬﻢ ﻟﻤﺜﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺒﻌﺜﺎت ،ﻣﻬﻤﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺧﻠﻔﻴﺎﺗﻬﻢ اﻟﺴﺎﺑﻘﺔ". ﻳﺒﺪو ﻟﻲ اﻷﻣﺮ ﻣﻌﻘﻮﻻ ً ،وﻋﻠﻰ أرض اﻟﻮاﻗﻊ ،داﺧﻞ اﻟﻐﺎﺑﺔ ،وﺟﺪت ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻖ ﺻﺎﺋﺒﺎً ﺗﻤﺎﻣﺎً .اﻟﺘﻌﻠﻢ ﺳﺮﻳﻊ ﻟﻜﻨﻪ ﻗﺪ ﻳﻜﻮن ﺻﻌﺒﺎً ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﺪاﻳﺔ ،ﻟﻜﻦ ﺑﻌﺪ ﻳﻮﻣﻴﻦ ﺷﻌﺮت ﺑﺄﻧﻲ أﺳﺎﻫﻢ ﺣﻘﺎً ﺑﺸﻲء ﻣﻔﻴﺪ .ﺷﻲء راﺋﻊ أن ﺗﻜﻮن ﻹﺟﺎزﺗﻲ أﻏﺮاض أﺧﺮى ﻏﻴﺮ اﻻﺳﺘﺮﺧﺎء واﻻﺳﺘﻤﺘﺎع ﺑﺎﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ .إﻧﻪ ﺷﻌﻮر ﻋﻈﻴﻢ، ﺧﺎﺻﺔ أن اﻟﺮﺣﻠﺔ ﻟﻴﺴﺖ ﻟﻼﺳﺘﻌﺮاض واﻟﺘﻔﺎﺧﺮ. ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺪار ﺧﺒﺮﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﻤﺘﺪة ﻟـ 20ﻋﺎﻣﺎً ،ﺷﺎرﻛﺖ ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺔ "ﺑﻌﺜﺎت اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺎت اﻟﺤﻴﻮﻳﺔ" ﻓﻲ ﺗﺸﻜﻴﻞ ﻣﺴﺎﺣﺎت ﻣﺤﻤﻴﺔ داﺧﻞ أرﺑﻊ ﻗﺎرات ،وﺳﺎﻫﻤﺖ ﻓﻲ وﻗﻒ ﺗﺪﻣﻴﺮ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ واﻟﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ ،وأﺻﺒﺤﺖ ﻣﺪاﻓﻌﺎً ﻗﻮﻳﺎً ﻋﻦ ﻛﻮﻛﺒﻨﺎ اﻟﻌﺰﻳﺰ وﺑﻴﺌﺎﺗﻪ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻴﺔ .إﻧﻨﻲ ﻓﺨﻮر ﻟﻠﻐﺎﻳﺔ ﻟﻤﺴﺎﻫﻤﺘﻲ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺒﻌﺜﺔ. ﻫﺬه اﻟﺮﺣﻠﺔ ،ﻟﻴﺴﺖ ﻓﻲ ﺣﺎل ﻣﻦ اﻷﺣﻮال رﺣﻠﺔ ﺳﻔﺎري أو ﻋﻄﻠﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻌﻨﻰ اﻟﻤﻌﺘﺎد .وﻫﺬا ﻣﺎ أﻛﺪه ﻫﺎﻣﺮ ﺑﻘﻮﻟﻪ "اﻟﻌﻠﻢ ﻟﻴﺲ رﺣﻼت ﺳﻔﺎري" ،ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻳﺪاه ورﻛﺒﺘﺎه ﻣﺘﺴﺨﺘﻴﻦ وﻫﻮ ﻳﺨﺮج ﻣﻦ ﻋﺮﻳﻦ اﻟﺪب اﻟﺬي ﻗﺎم ﺑﻘﻴﺎﺳﻪ ﻟﻠﺘﻮ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪاﺧﻞ ﻣﻊ اﻟﺰﻣﻴﻞ ﺟﺎن، اﻟﻤﻮاﻃﻦ اﻟﻌﺎ ِﻟﻢ ﻣﻦ أﻟﻤﺎﻧﻴﺎ .وﻳﺘﻔﻖ ﺟﺎن ﻣﻌﻪ ،وﻳﻀﻴﻒ "اﻟﺒﻌﺜﺎت اﻻﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ ﺗﺤﺘﺎج إﻟﻰ ﺟﻬﺪ وﻻ ﺗﺄﺗﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻃﺒﻖ ﻣﻦ ذﻫﺐ ،إﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﺪﺧﻠﻚ ﻓﻲ ﻋﻤﻖ ﻣﺠﺎل
اﺗﺠﺎﻫﺎت ﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم 2019 اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ اﻟﻮاﻋﻴﺔ ﻟﻴﺴﺖ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻘﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة اﻟﻮﺣﻴﺪة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻐﻴﺮ أﺳﻠﻮب اﻛﺘﺸﺎﻓﻨﺎ ﻟﻠﻌﺎﻟﻢ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﻨﺔ
ORYX | 145
اﻟﺴﻔﺮ ﻣﻨﻔﺮد ًا إن ﻛﻨﺖ ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺮ ًا وﺣﺪك دﻋﻚ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻨﺎدق ،وﺟﺮب "اﻟﻌﻴﺶ اﻟﻤﺸﺘﺮك" ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠ ّﻤﻌﺎت ﺳﻜﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﺎﺧﺮة ﻣﻊ ﻣﻘﺎﻫﻲ وورش ﻋﻤﻞ .ﺟﺮّب ،WeLiveو .Roam
ﺣﻤﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ وﺗﻌﻠﻤﻚ اﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ .وﻗﺪ ﺗﻌﻠﻤﺖ اﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ ﻋﻦ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ،وﻛﻴﻔﻴﺔ اﺳﺘﺨﺪام ﻧﻈﺎم ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺪ اﻟﻤﻮاﻗﻊ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻤﻲ وﺟﻬﺎز اﻟﺮﻳﻼﺳﻜﻮب )أداة ﻟﻘﻴﺎس ﻗﻄﺮ اﻷﺷﺠﺎر( ،ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗﻌﻠﻤﺖ ﺗﺴﺠﻴﻞ اﻟﺒﻴﺎﻧﺎت اﻟﻌﻠﻤﻴﺔ، وﻗﻴﺎدة اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺒﺎت ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻄﺮق اﻟﻮﻋﺮة ،واﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ ﻏﻴﺮﻫﺎ. ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ ﻟﻲ إﻧﻬﺎ ﺣﻘﺎً إﺟﺎزة ﻫﺎدﻓﺔ وواﻋﻴﺔ". ﻣﻮﺿﻮع "اﻟﻮﻋﻲ" ﻫﻮ أﺣﺪث ﺻﻴﺤﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻟﺴﻔﺮ واﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ اﻟﻤﺮﻓﻬﺔ .ﻓﻌﻠﻰ ﻛﻮﻛﺐ ﺗﺘﻨﺎﻗﺺ ﻣﻮارده ﺑﺴﺮﻋﺔ ،ﻻ ﺷﻚ أن ﻫﻨﺎك ﺣﺎﺟﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺗﺮﺷﻴﺪ اﻻﺳﺘﻬﻼك ،وإﻳﺠﺎد ﺗﻌﺮﻳﻒ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻟﻤﻌﻨﻰ اﻟﺘﺮف واﻟﺮﻓﺎﻫﻴﺔ ،ﺗﻌﺮﻳﻒ ﻳﻌﻴﺪ إﻟﻰ ﻛﻮﻛﺐ اﻷرض ﺑﻌﺾ ﻣﺎ ﻓﻘﺪه" .أﺻﺒﺢ اﻟﺴﻔﺮ اﻟﻮاﻋﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﺆول ﻳﻌﺘﺒﺮ أﺣﺪ أﺑﺮز اﻟﺘﻮﺟﻬﺎت اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ" ﻛﻤﺎ ﻳﻘﻮل ﻫﺎﻣﺮ. وﻳﻀﻴﻒ "ﻫﺬا ﺷﻲء ﻋﻈﻴﻢ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ ﻟﻨﺎ ،وﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ ﻟﻠﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ ،وﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ ﻳﻌﻨﻲ اﻟﻤﺰﻳﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺮﻓﻖ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﻌﺎﻣﻞ ﻣﻊ ﻛﻮﻛﺐ اﻷرض". إﻧﻪ اﻟﺮﻓﻖ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﻌﺎﻣﻞ ﻣﻊ اﻟﻜﻮﻛﺐ وﺳﺎﻛﻨﻴﻪ واﻟﺬي ﻳﺒﺪو واﺿﺤﺎً ﻓﻲ ﻣﺴﺎﻋﻲ "ﺑﻌﺜﺎت اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺎت اﻟﺤﻴﻮﻳﺔ" .وﺷﺨﺼﻴﺎً اﻧﺒﻬﺮت ﺑﺄﻧﺸﻄﺔ اﻟﻤﻨﻈﻤﺔ وﺣﺮﺻﻬﺎ ،ﻓﻤﺜﻼ ً ،ﻗﺪم ﻟﻨﺎ ﻃﻌﺎم ﻧﺒﺎﺗﻲ ﻃﻮال اﻟﺮﺣﻠﺔ، واﻟﺴﺒﺐ ،ﻛﻤﺎ ﻳﻨﺺ ﻣﻮﻗﻊ اﻟﻤﻨﻈﻤﺔ "أن اﻷﻣﻢ اﻟﻤﺘﺤﺪة ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ ﻧﻈﺎم اﻟﻄﻌﺎم اﻟﻨﺒﺎﺗﻲ إﺣﺪى اﻟﻄﺮق اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﻴﺔ ﻟﺨﻔﺾ اﻷﺛﺮ اﻟﺴﻠﺒﻲ اﻟﺬي ﻳﺘﺮﻛﻪ اﻹﻧﺴﺎن ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺔ ،وﺗﺨﻠﺺ إﻟﻰ ﺿﺮورة اﻟﺘﺤﻮل ﻧﺤﻮ ﻧﻈﺎم ﻏﺬاﺋﻲ ﻧﺒﺎﺗﻲ ﻟﻤﻜﺎﻓﺤﺔ أﺳﻮأ ﺗﺄﺛﻴﺮات ﻇﺎﻫﺮة اﻟﺘﻐﻴﺮ اﻟﻤﻨﺎﺧﻲ".
ﻗﺼﻴﺮة ﻟﻜﻦ ﻣﻤﺘﻌﺔ ﻳﺰداد اﻹﻗﺒﺎل ﻋﻠﻰ "اﻟﺮﺣﻼت اﻟﻤﺼﻐﺮة" ،وﺿﻐﻂ وﻗﺖ اﻟﺮﺣﻼت ﺑﺤﻴﺚ ﺗﻨﺎﺳﺐ أوﻗﺎت اﻟﻔﺮاغ وﻋﻄﻼت ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ اﻷﺳﺒﻮع .وﻋﺎدة ﺗﻜﻮن اﻹﻗﺎﻣﺔ ﻓﻲ أﻣﺎﻛﻦ ﻏﻴﺮ ﻋﺎدﻳﺔ.
ﺗﻌﻠّﻢ ﻣﺪى اﻟﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﺴﻔﺮ ﻣﻌﻠّﻢ ﺟﻴﺪ ﺟﺪاً ،وﻛﺜﻴﺮ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺎس ﻳﻮدون اﻻﺳﺘﻔﺎدة ﻣﻦ رﺣﻼﺗﻬﻢ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ أﻛﺒﺮ ﺑﺎﻻﻟﺘﺤﺎق ﺑﺒﺮاﻣﺞ ﻣﻌﻴﻨﺔ ﻣﺜﻞ اﻟﻘﻴﺎم ﺑﻌﻤﻞ ﺗﻄﻮﻋﻲ ،اﻟﺘﺒﺎدل اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻲ ،أو ﻣﺸﺎرﻛﺔ اﻟﻤﻬﺎرات.
ﺳﺘﻮﻛﻬﻮﻟﻢ
ﻧﻘﺘﺮب ﻣﻦ ﻋﺮﻳﻦ اﻟﺪب ﺑﺒﻂء وﺣﺬر .ﻓﻔﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻐﺎﺑﺔ اﻟﻮاﺳﻌﺔ اﻟﻤﺤﻴﻄﺔ ﺑﻨﺎ ﻳﻮﺟﺪ ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ،وﻗﺪ ﺗﻜﻮن اﻵن ﻧﺎﺋﻤﺔ ،وﺑﺎﻟﺘﺄﻛﻴﺪ ﻻ أرﻳﺪ أن أﻗﻠﻖ راﺣﺘﻬﺎ .ﻧﻘﻒ ﺟﺎﻣﺪﻳﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺴﺎرﻧﺎ ،وﻳﻜﺎد ﻗﻠﺒﻲ ﻳﺘﻮﻗﻒ .أﻧﻈﺮ ﺑﻘﻠﻖ ﻧﺤﻮ أﻧﺪرﻳﺎ ﻓﺮﻳﺒﻪ ،ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻷﺣﻴﺎء اﻟﻤﺘﺨﺼﺺ ﻓﻲ ﺷﺆون اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ وﻗﺎﺋﺪ ﺑﻌﺜﺘﻨﺎ .ﻳﺠﻮل أﻧﺪرﻳﺎ ﺑﺒﺼﺮه ،ﺛﻢ ﻳﻬﺰ رأﺳﻪ، وﻳﺸﻴﺮ إﻟﻰ أن اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ آﻣﻦ .أﺗﻨﻔﺲ اﻟﺼﻌﺪاء وأواﺻﻞ ﺳﻴﺮي ﻧﺤﻮ اﻟﻌﺮﻳﻦ ،وأﻧﺎ أﺷﻖ ﻃﺮﻳﻘﻲ ﺑﻴﻦ ﺗﻀﺎرﻳﺲ وﻋﺮة ﻓﻲ اﻟﻐﺎﺑﺔ اﻟﺴﺤﺮﻳﺔ اﻟﻮاﻗﻌﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻘﺎﻃﻌﺔ داﻻرﻧﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻮﻳﺪ )ﻋﻠﻰ ﺑﻌﺪ 4ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻴﺎرة ﻋﻦ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﺳﺘﻮﻛﻬﻮﻟﻢ( .اﻷﺣﺠﺎر واﻟﺼﺨﻮر ﻣﻜﺴﻮة ﺑﻄﺒﻘﺔ ﻛﺜﻴﻔﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻄﺤﺎﻟﺐ واﻷﺷﻨﻴﺎت ،وأﺷﺠﺎر اﻟﺼﻨﻮﺑﺮ واﻟﺘﻨﻮب اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﺗﺤﻴﻂ ﺑﻨﺎ ﻣﺜﻞ ﺟﻨﻮد ﻃﻮال اﻟﻘﺎﻣﺔ ،وﺗﻐﻤﺮﻧﺎ راﺋﺤﺔ اﻷرض اﻟﻤﻤﻴﺰة ﺑﻤﺰﻳﺞ ﻣﻦ رواﺋﺢ اﻟﺨﺸﺐ واﻟﻌﺸﺐ .اﻟﻀﺒﺎب ﻳﻠﻒ اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ ﻣﻊ ﺷﺮوق اﻟﺸﻤﺲ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻴﻮم اﻟﺼﻴﻔﻲ .ﻳﺮﺷﺪﻧﻲ ﻧﻈﺎم ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺪ اﻟﻤﻮاﻗﻊ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻤﻲ GPSإﻟﻰ اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻖ ﻧﺤﻮ ﻋﺮﻳﻦ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ،وﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ أﺻﻌﺪ ﻗﻤﺔ ﺗﻠﺔ ﻗﺮﻳﺒﺔ ،ﻳﺼﺒﺢ ﺑﺈﻣﻜﺎﻧﻲ رؤﻳﺘﻪ .ﻛﺎن اﻟﻌﺮﻳﻦ ﻓﺎرﻏﺎً ﻟﺤﺴﻦ اﻟﺤﻆ ،ﻣﺎ ﻳﺘﻴﺢ ﻟﻨﺎ اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎﻓﻪ. ﻧﺤﻦ ﻧﺴﺘﻜﺸﻒ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻐﺎﺑﺔ اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺪ ﻟﻬﺪف ﻣﺤﺪد ،ﻓﻲ إﻃﺎر ﻣﺸﺮوع "اﻟﻤﻮاﻃﻦ اﻟﻌﺎ ِﻟﻢ" ﻣﻊ ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺔ "ﺑﻌﺜﺎت اﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف اﻟﺒﻴﺌﺎت اﻟﺤﻴﻮﻳﺔ" .وﻫﺪﻓﻨﺎ: ﺑﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﻠﻮن اﻟﺘﻲ ﻻ اﻟﻤﺴﺎﻋﺪة ﻓﻲ اﻟﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ّ ﺗﺰال ﺗﺠﻮب ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻘﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ .ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﻨﻈﻤﺔ، اﻟﺘﻲ أﺳﺴﺖ ﻗﺒﻞ 20ﻋﺎﻣﺎً وﺗﺤﺪﻳﺪ ًا ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺎم ،1999 ﻫﻲ ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺔ ﻏﻴﺮ ﺣﻜﻮﻣﻴﺔ وﻏﻴﺮ رﺑﺤﻴﺔ ﺗﺴﻌﻰ ﻟﻠﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ ،وﻫﻲ راﺋﺪة ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل اﻟﺴﻔﺮ اﻟﻮاﻋﻲ. وﻟﺤﺴﻦ ﺣﻈﻨﺎ اﻧﻀﻢ إﻟﻴﻨﺎ ﻣﺆﺳﺴﻬﺎ اﻟﺪﻛﺘﻮر ﻣﺎﺗﻴﺎس ﻫﺎﻣﺮ ،ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻷﺣﻴﺎء وﺧﺮﻳﺞ ﺟﺎﻣﻌﺘﻲ أوﻛﺴﻔﻮرد وﻛﺎﻣﺒﺮﻳﺪج ،ﻟﻴﻘﻮد ﺑﻌﺜﺘﻨﺎ .ﻳﻘﻮل ﻫﺎﻣﺮ "ﻛﻮﻛﺒﻨﺎ ﻳﻌﺎﻧﻲ ﻣﻦ أزﻣﺔ .وﻧﺮﻳﺪ أن ﻧﻤﻜّﻦ اﻟﻨﺎس ﻣﻦ ﻓﻌﻞ ﺷﻲء ﺣﻴﺎل ﻫﺬه اﻷزﻣﺔ ،ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل ﻣﺪّ ﻳﺪ اﻟﻌﻮن واﻟﻤﺸﺎرﻛﺔ ﻓﻌﻠﻴﺎً ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﺎرﻳﻊ اﻟﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ أرﺟﺎء اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ". وﺑﺎﻟﻔﻌﻞ ،ﺗﻌﻤﻞ اﻟﻤﺆﺳﺴﺔ ﻓﻲ أﻧﺤﺎء اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﺎرﻳﻊ ﻣﺘﻨﻮﻋﺔ ،ﻣﺜﻞ ﻣﺸﺮوع ﻓﻬﻮد اﻟﺜﻠﺞ ﻓﻲ
ﻫﻨﺎك ﺣﺎﺟﺔ ﻟﺒﺬل ﺟﻬﻮد ﻟﻠﻤﺤﺎﻓﻈﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ذات اﻟﻠﻮن اﻟﺒﻨﻲ ،اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﺮاﺟﻊ أﻋﺪادﻫﺎ
ﻗﺮﻏﻴﺰﺳﺘﺎن ،واﻟﺸﻌﺎب اﻟﻤﺮﺟﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺟﺰر اﻟﻤﺎﻟﺪﻳﻒ، واﻟﺬﺋﺎب ﻓﻲ أﻟﻤﺎﻧﻴﺎ ،واﻟﺴﻼﺣﻒ اﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻛﻮﺳﺘﺎرﻳﻜﺎ وﻏﻴﺮ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻜﺜﻴﺮ .ﻳﻀﻴﻒ ﻫﺎﻣﺮ "أﺟﻤﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻷﺣﻴﺎء أﻧﻪ ﺑﻌﻴﺪ ﻋﻦ اﻷﺗﻤﺘﺔ ،ﻓﻬﻮ أﺷﺒﻪ ﺑﻬﻮاﻳﺔ ﺟﻤﻊ اﻟﻄﻮاﺑﻊ ،ﻓﻼ ﻳﻮﺟﺪ ﺣﺎﺳﻮب وﻻ ﻃﺎﺋﺮة ﺗﺤﻜﻢ ﻋﻦ ﺑﻌﺪ )درون( ﻳﻤﻜﻨﻬﻤﺎ ﻋﺪّ ﻋﺮاﺋﻦ اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ وﺗﻘﻴﻴﻤﻬﺎ .ﻟﻜﻨﻨﺎ ﻧﺴﺘﻄﻴﻊ ﺗﺪرﻳﺐ اﻟﻨﺎس ﺧﻼل ﻳﻮم أو ﻳﻮﻣﻴﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ أداء ﻣﻬﺎم ﻋﻠﻤﻴﺔ ﺣﻮل اﻟﻌﺮاﺋﻦ ،ﻣﺜﻞ ﻗﻴﺎس ﺣﺠﻤﻬﺎ وﻣﺴﺎﺣﺘﻬﺎ ،ووﺻﻔﻬﺎ ،واﻟﺒﺤﺚ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ وﺣﻮﻟﻬﺎ ﻋﻦ ﻋﻼﻣﺎت وﺟﻮد اﻟﺪﺑﺒﺔ ،وﻏﻴﺮ ذﻟﻚ .ﻓﺎﻟﺘﺤﻮل إﻟﻰ 'ﻣﻮاﻃﻦ ﻋﺎ ِﻟﻢ' ﻓﻲ ﻳﻮم واﺣﺪ أﻣﺮ ﻳﺴﻴﺮ ،وﻛﻠﻤﺎ زاد ﻋﺪد اﻟﻤﻮاﻃﻨﻴﻦ اﻟﻌﻠﻤﺎء وزاد ﺣﺠﻢ اﻟﺒﻴﺎﻧﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳﻤﻜﻨﻨﺎ
146 | ORYX
إﺟﺎزة واﻋﻴﺔ وﻣﻤﺘﻌﺔ ﺗﻌﺮﻓﻮا ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ اﻟﻮاﻋﻴﺔ ،أﺣﺪ أﻫﻢ اﻻﺗﺠﺎﻫﺎت اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻟﺴﻴﺎﺣﺔ واﻟﺴﻔﺮ ،ﻓﻲ رﺣﻠﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻐﻼف اﻟﺤﻴﻮي .ﻧﺴﺎﻓﺮ إﻟﻰ داﻻرﻧﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺪ ﻟﻼﺳﺘﻤﺘﺎع ﺑﺈﺟﺎزة ﻻ ﻣﺜﻴﻞ ﻟﻬﺎ ﻣﻊ اﻟﺤﻴﺎة اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺔ
ﺑﻘﻠﻢ ﺳﺎم ﻣﺘﻤﺮﻫﺎم