12 minute read

eCycling in The Elan Valley

How do you fancy spending a couple of days in Mid Wales testing out electric mountain bikes? This is what I found in my inbox late one November evening. Obviously curious and most definitely interested, I responded positively, who wouldn’t? I had read that E-Bikes were going to be BIG, but I was yet to be convinced.

Unfortunately, electric powered bikes have rightly or wrongly received some negative press at my hands in the past, in my defence the majority of my pedalling takes place on quiet rolling country lanes or car infested urban carriageways and the sight of an E-Bike filled me with complete confusion. The chance to banish my pre-conceptions was overwhelming, the door was wide-open, and I was tentatively venturing in, the world of electric powered pedalling awaited. In my simple opinion the whole purpose of cycling is the requirement to selfpropel, the means of getting from A to B through good old grit, determination and uncomplicated effort.

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The achievement you experience by manually pedalling a gargantuan incline or covering a sizeable distance, dripping in sweat, is the whole principle of cycling isn’t it? So, my viewpoint, if slightly biased, is an E-bike prevents the rider from appreciating this very energetic ethos and missing out on the overall joys, and sometimes pains that attract most to two wheeled transportation. To those of us challenged by pedalling up and down modest hills, the prospect of attempting more heady climbs might seem rather intimidating but I accept the experience can be or may be simplified with a little assistance. The hardest, most painful, least enjoyable part of my rides are usually the bits I remember fondly (actually fondly might not be the most appropriate word).

My concern is that these feelings may become lost or blurred when reverting to electric power, resulting in the need for any effort being diluted or even diminished. I understand that there are pros and cons of the e-revolution but, will it really bring people into the cycling arena as predicted or hoped, and if so, will those people then bemoan the occasions when some simple manual pedalling is inevitable. Harshly I appear to have no faith in the human race and its powers of resolve or fortitude.

I concede that a major attraction of battery power is the fact it enables most to cover greater distances with the minimal of effort, encouraging the less able to accompany their fitter, more experienced playmates, without the expected huffing and puffing. Let’s be honest, most MTB riders would concede they crave the exhilarating, adrenalin pumping descents but aren’t too keen on the arduous trek beforehand, and any mechanical assistance would provide an obvious allure. Less effort means more downhill fun, and this is where E-bikes might actually come into their own. It was now spring 2014 and I was in Hay-on-Wye to discover for myself. Would my narrow-minded blinkered approach be re-educated? Only time would tell.

The towns location is beautiful, pressing tight against the Black Mountains, nestled snugly on the banks of the River Wye. The trip had been instigated by Drover Holidays, a walking and cycling tour company owned and run by Luke Skinner and Anna Heywood and based in the town. The closest train stations are either Hereford or Abergavenny, both around 45 -1 hour away by car. Their ethos is wonderfully simple, they love cycling and believe that the world is best experienced at a slow pace, preferably on two feet or two wheels and this inspired them to start the business. The trips they offer are tailor-made to the individual needs, and at the heart is their philosophy of social and environmental sustainability. They had put several ideas before me and the one that appealed the most was the ‘Mid Wales Marches’. Thankfully I was in no hurry, I’d been set two days to cover the mediocre 70km trail between Hay-on-Wye and the Elan Valley with a bonus ride arranged between the Elan Valley and Ffair Rhos.. My main focus was to enjoy the sights and scenery of the Welsh Borders, as well as putting an electrically powered MTB through its paces along a mix of non-technical ‘On and Off’ road terrain. The bike was a German import (Haibike) and offers a ‘pedal assist’ motor, in practical terms this can be described quite eloquently as ‘kicking in when the cranks are turning’. However, stop pedalling and the power is instantly shut off. I was still unconvinced, but now slightly intrigued, and with my appetite wetted, I was ready to be immersed in all things electrical. It didn’t take me long to feel at home, the conversation friendly and not completely bike related. However, Anna’s passion for cycling was obvious and has got her involved in organising the Hay Bike Fest (www. haycycling.org) which is in its second year and is being staged 25th – 27th April. It’s an annual celebration of cycling with a whole weekend of guided rides, skills sessions and demos and so much more.

DAY ONE

I set off from Drovers base, a wellstocked shop on the outskirts of Hay, the weather was fair, warm but thankfully slightly overcast. I unfurled my map, the route mapped out in detail, every contour lovingly depicted, every incline worryingly graphic. My route took me north west briefly on the B4351 breezing through Clyro and following the signs for Painscastle. The ride was relatively benign early on. In the air was a March chill but the sun was already generating a welcome warmth. A lengthy steep climb followed and I found the bike a complete marvel especially with the 5 settings (Turbo, Sport, Tour, Eco and off), I only needed to go as high as tour, maybe that was my subconscious kicking in, I wanted to feel I was adding to the majority of the propulsion.

However I did have to apologise to a lyrca clad rather rotund roadie struggling slightly with the incline as I sped past with the minimal of effort (the experience is weird it’s like having a constant gentle shove in your back like when your dad used to help you along as a child, but the predicted whine of the motor did highlight the fact I was using some electric assistance).

After stopping briefly in Painscastle I emerged on an unfenced road with stunning far-reaching views of the surrounding hillside. I then hit an offroad section which took me to Cradle Rocks before joining tarmac and once I had pedalled through Llandeilo Graban, the B4594 took me to a lovely coffee stop, Erwood Station Craft centre. Galvanised, I then crossed the River Wye before climbing steeply for 8km eventually reverting to a rutted grass track at the crest of a hill. I skirted the tranquil Pant y Llyn lake, the complete scene of isolation was amazing, the surface was ok, the tyres groaned against the dirt and debris.

I love this time of year, the landscape turning from browns and the desolation of winter to the beginning of greens and vibrant colours of spring. Since that initial email back in November, I had used my time wisely and was now fully conversant in my rocky drop offs, full size pump tracks and remote fork lockouts. In reality, it was just a matter of time before my lack of MTB knowledge or skills would be horribly exposed, and the subsequent comedy of errors was expected. I then negotiated several streams with ease and followed a well-defined track which contoured into the hill, the views were breathtaking, a backdrop embroidered in green hues with a smattering of stone dwellings. The going was smooth and relatively fast, mostly in part due to battery assistance. What followed was a thrilling descent on a rather bumpy, muddy track and with some heavy braking I arrived at the B4520. Builth Wells was only a short

pedal ride away and my base for the night. On reflection I should have covered 35km but in reality, I managed 55km, I was simply having so much fun

DAY TWO

The weather once again was favourable. I followed the River Wye out of the town on NCN 8 which is helpfully signed. The roads were quiet, and I managed to pedal assist free up past Cwmchwefru. Then the fun began, just as I passed a lovely stone cottage, I encountered open moorland. Although it was well defined there were plenty of rocks and roots breaking through the damp surface, which gave me a myriad of things to ponder. The further I went the boggier the landscape became but with some confident braking I managed to negotiate myself to a point where the track improved markedly and a lengthy descent followed to Llanwrthwl.

I was so looking forward to some mucky mayhem and that’s what I had been exposed to over the past 25 minutes, it was great, both terrifying and exhilarating, in equal measure. I was now approaching the Elan Valley which stretches a glorious 72 square miles through the heart of Wales. Its greatest attraction is the compelling dams and reservoirs with which it is synonymous. Its home to a series of 6 dams (only 4 are visible) each possessing their own character and dynamics. There are plenty of signs pinpointing the Elan Valley Trail which follows a disused railway between Rhayader and the visitors centre, where I chose to stop for coffee. As well as the café, there is a gift shop, toilets, picnic areas and children’s play area and Alan, one of the helpful Rangers. He told me rather animatedly about the Powys All Ability Cycling Project, a pilot scheme designed to open up the countryside to a wider range of visitors all through the power of bikes.

Folk who normally would not dream of saddling up now have the opportunity to hire alternative bikes from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre or Drover. Catering for all abilities means providing a large range of bikes for hire, from normal MTB’s to tandems, e-bikes and even side by side behemoths. After a brief rest for a coffee, I took the Elan Valley Trail following the contours of the Garregddu reservoir. The trail is initially tarmac, the views were spectacular of the evocative landscape and water glistening in the now bright sunshine. Several slight inclines were conquered with ease before the surface reverted to gravel and grass, I pedalled through vibrant tree cover before finding tarmac once more.

and sat happily in the hillside was my accommodation for the night, Penbont B&B and Tearooms. What a location to stir the imagination. That evening I devoured my large cottage pie with gusto as I studied the nights sky, (the Elan Valley is classified a Dark Sky Zone, so my hope was for a dazzling light display, unfortunately it was not to be). What a great end to a great day, its stark beauty is idyllic. I would especially like to mention Sandra for making me feel part of her family with her delicious food. A great addition to a great location, Diolch!

DAY THREE

My last day, and amazing would be an understatement, the complete seclusion was memorable. The route took me back towards Elan Village before tracking the Caban-coch Reservoir and the weather was behaving again. The experience of riding in the early morning never ceases to amaze me, the kaleidoscope of colours, sounds and atmosphere accentuated by the calming, softer light is always invariable wondrous and today was a fine example, the sunlight dancing merrily across the water. I made good progress into Cerrigcwplau with the dominating presence of the Claerwen dam as an imposing backdrop. What followed was one of my greatest cycling experiences ever. I pedalled up to the top of the dam, the views were magnificent, before continuing onto a track which for 10km exposed me to total tranquillity, a complete picture of rustic serenity.

The landscape perfect with rolling hills, rocks cloaked in thick lively moss and shimmering waters. The trail was in fairly good condition, there was the odd boulder to keep me concentrated, but definitely rideable and great fun. My only company were the local sheep and lambs, I did notice the odd remote house or bothy (a basic shelter, usually left unlocked and available for anyone to use free of charge) but otherwise it was just me, the bike and the wilderness, it’s definitely a tough hardy environment. At the head of the reservoir I crossed over the River Claerwen, the surface then became more unpredictable, rough with many ruts and small pools but again loads of fun, and the bike helped with the occasional steep incline (I chose to not employ the battery unless I had to, so on the flat or downhill sections I used basic manual propulsion, I didn’t feel I was cheating too much then). After 4km I finally found some tarmac and stopped to take in the views of Llyn Teifi in the valley below. Eventually my ride had to come to an end in Pontrhydfendigaid (please don’t ask me to pronounce it). What an amazing 3 days of riding I had experienced.

In summary, the main question you need to ask yourself is, how many people would actually go skiing if they had to make their way to the top of the mountain under their own steam? The answer is simple so discard any pre-conceptions and embrace the e-revolution because I’m definitely up for anything that makes my MTB experience in anyway easier and more

fun. I’ve had to confront a prejudice, I assumed the whole e-ethos was going to be monotonous, with no place in cycling but what I discovered was very different. It was a revelation; the innovation and technical advances have created a new breed of e-bikes. Are they a viable option? I think so, yes! I was surprised by the amount of fun I experienced, it just felt right, and still does. Ok, I haven’t completely moved over to the dark side, I don’t feel like I am betraying the purity of cycling, I’m just prepared to acknowledge the many benefits of a battery.

Everywhere I went everybody was promoting sustainable tourism and cycling is a big part of this focus. This was perfectly highlighted by a conversation I had with a friendly local at the sports centre in Pontrhydfendigaid, his positive enthusiasm for cycling and what it can bring to the community was so infectious, especially as there has been a decline in the area’s fortunes over the past couple of years. I hope through the commitment and desire of Drover Holidays, the Elan Valley Estate and the locals it will become a complete success because it definitely deserves it. Every one of my Welsh experiences has been an absolute joy and this was no different, the people, the welcome, the scenery and the all-round fun. Get your butts into gear and get yourself to the Cambrian Mountains and utilise the services of Drovers Holidays because they cater for your every need. A positive thumbs up to electric power, Drover Holidays and as always, Wales itself.