FOODIST ISSUE 14 by BE.COMMUNICATIONS

Winter 2020 / Issue 14

Chef Zoran Bogdanovski Elsa Messi p.10 // Xmassing Cranberries Rachel Zammit Cutajar p.19 Tongue-In-Stew Nick Diacono p.37 // It takes two to Mango Trevor Diacono p.45

Happy Festivities R E G UL A R S H OPPING HOUR S MON - WED 08:00 to 20:00

THU - FRI 08:00 to 21:00

SAT 07:30 to 20:00

SUN 09:00 to 14:00

C H R IST MAS EX T ENDED S HOPPING H OUR S SUNDAYS (DEC) 08:00 to 18:00

TUE 8TH DEC 08:00 to 20:00

THU 24TH DEC 08:00 to 18:00

FRI 25TH DEC CLOSED

THU 31ST DEC 08:00 to 18:00

FRI 1ST JAN CLOSED

THU 2ND JAN 08:00 to 20:00

F R E E

Psaila Street, Santa Venera t. 2148 0807

C U S T O M E R

PA R K I N G

Gorg Borg Olivier Street, St Julian’s t. 2137 8520

www.myparktowers.com

Spinola Park, St Julian’s t. 2138 1055

Tis’ the season to stay home This Christmas is going to be like no other – the positive aspect is that we won't need to stress ourselves too much by hosting a big group or family – the negative part is that most of us will be homebound. For the most vulnerable, the sad thing is it can turn lonely too. So, it's beginning to look a lot like Christmas at home as I'm dreaming of a Zoom Christmas like the ones I never knew. However, it's been reported in the international news that scientists are suggesting outdoor festivities (in the streets that is) to keep safe. But don't overwork yourselves - Foodist's top chefs have shared some tips for those opting to stay home and for those who plan to eat out we've also got you sorted. We also run an interview with local chef Karl Mallia about his cooking philosophy and concepts, using the freshest ingredients and creative mind to deliver a diﬀerent cooking experience. We also get to meet Zoran Bogdanovski, who worked in some of the best kitchens in Bulgaria and Qatar before moving to Malta and opening his restaurant. For those taking the plunge and are planning to treat them'elfs and saving themselves cooking and washing the dishes afterwards, we have put together some top festive menus hosted by several leading kitchens in Malta. We have some mouth-watering desserts that will most definitely not kill your Christmas spirit. And if you are after some healthy snacks, it takes two to mango to stay healthy – some recipes Trevor Diacono prepared for you and your will to change to a healthy but tasty diet of course. Spread the love, not the virus! Happy festivities to all our readers.

foodistmag.com @foodistmag @foodistmag Editor Anthony P. Bernard Design Be.design Photography Chris Sant Fournier Printing Print It Exclusively distributed at all Park Towers Supermarkets check-out points and selected outlets such as delis, wine shops, cafes, bistros and restaurants. See outlets on page 56.

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Winter Issue

Contents

SEASONING GREETINGS

HOTTEST OPENINGS

PROCESSING THOUGHTS IN THE KITCHEN

XMASSING CRANBERRIES

CHRISTMAS LUNCH: 2020 EDITION

TONGUE-IN-STEW

IT TAKES TWO TO MANGO

GADGETS

NEWS

OUTLETS

In these unusual times we all focus on what matters most â&#x20AC;Śthings like food, family, and festivities

Good Earth, Great Christmas!

goodearth.com.mt

INTERVIEW

Seasonings G r e e t i n g s 8

ELSA MESSI MEETS CHEF ZORAN BOGDANOVSKI, WHO WORKED IN SOME OF THE BEST KITCHENS IN BULGARIA AND QATAR BEFORE MOVING TO MALTA WHERE HE WORKED AT CAVIAR & BULL AND BUDDHAMANN, BEFORE OPENING HIS RESTAURANT IN THE HEART OF GÅ¼IRA CALLED PAPRIKA.

Elsa Messi

When did your love of cooking begin and when did you decide to become a chef? My love for cooking started at a very early age when my grandmother and mother used to cook for family dinners and celebrations. They made me a mini apron which said Happy Little Chef on it which I wore proudly around the house, and I still have it framed today. As for the decision, I guess it happened at the age of 13 when I was about to finish primary school and go to high school. Where you trained at a culinary school (if so where) or self-taught? I finished culinary school and then went on to complete a university degree for gastronomy, nutritionists and dietetics in Macedonia. Can you tell me about your culinary professional background and history? I started working in kitchens at the age of 15. My first restaurant was a Mexican restaurant in the heart of Skopje, where I spent three years. After that, I got to work for one of the best chefs in Macedonia - Dejan Hristovski. I got my fair share of experience in the capital of Bulgaria before luckily getting a job at a prestigious hotel in Qatar-Doha where I could learn from lots of great Italian chefs that were running all the restaurants in the Doha Downtown hotel. After Qatar, I moved to Malta and was very lucky to get a job at Caviar & Bull working under Marvin Gauci and Sergi Huerga Marin. Both selflessly shared everything with me and helped me to be what I am today. They allowed me to be a part of the management team of their newly-opened restaurant Buddhaman at the time, and more importantly, they gave me the freedom to express myself through the menu. Then I went on to be the head chef at the nowclosed The Thirsty Lawyer in Valletta. Why do you enjoy being a chef? I love working under pressure, racing with time, being creative and exploring new ingredients, and besides my love of food, I always say, I like to satisfy people without even touching them. What are your favourite ingredients to work with? That's a tough question. I think it depends on the season or my mood. For now, I would say chocolate is something that I want to play with a lot. You've just opened Paprika, a new restaurant in Gzira. Can you tell me about it and what people can expect? Paprika is a concept that we are the first to

launch. It's Balkan fusion involving mixing Macedonian, Serbian, Bosnian, Croatian and Greek food in a casual fine dining way. People can expect progressive Balkan food that they've never experienced before. We are using old recipes and cooking techniques to transform into something new. What are the most popular dishes so far? The Boshkarin Tongue Carpaccio, the Kleftiko lamb with roasted pepper and cheese foam, and the pork belly with Greek olive oil powder and truﬄes. Apart from opening a restaurant, especially at the young age of 28, what has been the highlight of your career so far? I got recognised in Macedonia as a top chef, was invited on a few tv shows and was also very proud when my culinary school asked me to teach cooking classes to the young chefs that were studying at the time. What would you cook for friends and family? That depends on the friends that are coming over. I have a beautiful rooftop at home and have just finished building a fire pit which I use for grilling, so now it's fish and seafood, but occasionally I do cook some meat. Do you have any local head chefs you look up to? Absolutely. Once again, I must mention Sergi Huerga Marin and Marvin Gauci who allowed me to immerse myself in the world of avantgarde cooking, Jonathan Brincat from Noni, Rafel Sammutl from Briju and Andrew from Rebekah's. I don't know the last three much personally, but I follow them regularly and get inspired by them every day. If you had to invite any celebrities to a dinner party at your house who would they be? Gary Vaynerchuk and Bruce Willis (my girlfriend loves him).

What's your foodie guilty pleasure? Chocolate, chocolate and chocolate. If you could only eat one meal for the rest of your life, what would it be? My mother's stuﬀed peppers with minced beef and rice with homemade bread.

Elsa Messi

Hottest Openings

DESPITE THE CURRENT SITUATION WHERE COUNTLESS RESTAURANTS ARE FORCED TO SHUT THEIR DOORS DOWN, IT’S REFRESHING TO SEE SO MANY RESTAURANTS SUCCESSFULLY LAUNCHING. HERE IS A LIST OF SOME RECENTLY-OPENED RESTAURANTS YOU NEED TO HAVE YOUR EYE ON.

Dhaba Indian Street Food, Swieqi

SEED Restaurant, St. Julian's

PAPRIKA, GŻira

The Hyatt Regency Malta finally opened its luxurious five-star doors, and of course, it would have a five-star restaurant to match. When you have an executive chef like Noel Azzopardi and Daniel Vella McIntyre (ex-head chef of Commando Restaurant) working the kitchen, one can only expect the best. Starters include cauliflower veloute and royal (with smoked eek, cherry tomato, herb oil), grilled octopus (with parsley emulsion, sunflower seeds, capers and lardo) and confit and panfried rabbit belly. Some of the mains include glazed lamb neck fillet, slow-cooked beef short rib and duck breast with confit leg, pistachio and chevre baklava, pickled beetroot, jus).

Let me introduce you to Malta’s first Dahaba eatery. Dhabas are very popular in India, and they come in the form of roadside restaurants typically found next to petrol stations or on the highway for a quick bite. Located in Wembley Station in Sweiqi, Dhaba’s cheap and cheerful menu features Indian street foods such as onion bhaji, chicken tikka kebab, paneer chilli tikka kebab and Indian fried chicken. They also have curries such as butter chicken and chicken tikka masala.

Located in the heart of GŻira, Paprika is a casual fine dining restaurant specialising in Balkan fusion cuisine. The creative menu is the first of its kind and features stare-worthy dishes and creative cocktails. Starters include smoked mackerel (with dill oil pickled shallots and Greek yoghurt ‘snow’), Boskarin beef tongue carpaccio and a chicken/cod parfait coated in spicy white chocolate. Octopus under The Bell, sea bass roll stuﬀed with local prawns and braised Kleftiko lamb (with paprika reduction and cheese foam), is what you can expect from the mains. Let me advise you to charge your phones because each dish is undoubtedly worthy of a snap or three.

ION - The Harbour, Valletta

Mark Weingard’s highly-anticipated Iniala Harbour House & Residences is home to the fine dining restaurant - ION - The Harbour. Not only can you expect jaw-dropping views of the Grand Harbour but also a unique luxury dining experience. The 4-course dinner menu features dishes such as seaweed cured dentex (with pear and ginger and smoked eel) foie gras with persimmon and parsnip remoulade, grilled octopus (with XO sauce and Cevennes onions), John Dory (with chantarelles, hazelnuts and sauce Albufera) and entrecote of Sashi beef with beetroot fondant.

THE BLACK EGG, Ta' Xbiex

A trendy all-day bruncheria opened its Instagrammable doors last month, and the dishes and decor are a sight for sore eyes. The gourmet menu includes their signature eye-popping black poached egg (with crushed avo and chilli, crusted sourdough and pomegranate), Croque madame, three-egg flat omelette, shakshuka and the Duck & Waﬄe. They also have large plates and a dinner menu with risotto dishes, fish and meat dishes.

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Treat yo'elf!

12 12

Palazzo Castelletti, Rabat Choose between beef carpaccio, salmon roulade or wild mushroom lasagne for starters. Mains include a ballotine of turkey with all the trimmings, baked sea bream fillets, or slow-roasted pork belly with braised cabbage, guanciale lardons, rustic apple compote and dauphinoise potatoes. Christmas pudding or a rose, vanilla and ginger poached pear are what to expect for dessert. Available for Christmas day lunch. Price: €45 pp

The Phoenicia Malta, Valletta

ARE YOU PLANNING A CHRISTMAS LUNCH FOR FRIENDS, FAMILY OR COLLEAGUES? THESE TOP RESTAURANTS ARE OFFERING FESTIVE MENUS WITH ALL THE TRIMMINGS FOR A STRESS-FREE CHRISTMAS DINING, WITHOUT HAVING TO DO ANY DISHES!

The Phoenicia hotel has a few festive menus going on, but the stand out is the Christmas Day lunch menu at their Phoenix restaurant. Diners will be welcomed with a glass of mimosa, bellini or prosecco. Items on the menu include Cream of Tomato, Traditional Smoked Salmon ‘Garni’, Entrecote of beef (with oxtail croquette, turnip fondant, carrot puree), a traditional roast turkey with all the trimmings, a traditional Xmas pudding with butterscotch sauce, and more. Price: €75 pp

Noni, Valletta

Zeri’s Restaurant, St Julian’s

The Xara Lodge, Rabat

This salivating Xmas day lunch menu involves a gourmet three-course slap-up meal. Think black Angus carpaccio, cream of pea and mint soup, rabbit ragu paccheri or local grouper ravioli to commence. Followed by either a pan-roasted fillet of seabass, sous vide Frenched rack of milk-fed veal, and more. I wonder what the dessert of the day will be? Price: €49.50 pp

Have the stunning Xara Lodge as the backdrop of your lunch on Christmas Day. Grilled veg roulade, organic risotto (with duck breast and shiitake mushrooms), a duo of turkey breast, braised pork cheeks and brown meagre, are just some of the items one will find on the menu. Price: €47 pp

Are you dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant for Christmas lunch? Yes, please. The menu starts with Snacks from the Kitchen and ends with petit fours. In between, expect a terrine of confit rabbit shoulder, tortelloni (crab, bisque and lemon foam), dry-aged entrecote with a ‘cottage pie’ or a wreckfish with local prawn, fermented kohlrabi and miso beurre blanc. I will leave the dessert as a surprise. Price: €75 pp

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Duncan Barry

PROCESSING THOUGHTS THE KITCHEN IN

DUNCAN BARRY SPEAKS TO CHEF KARL MALLIA – THE MAN BEHIND THE 'COOKING OUT OF THE BOX' CONCEPT - ON HIS COOKING PHILOSOPHY.

You describe yourself as a chef that doesn't cook for the sake of cooking, but that 'thinks out of the box'. Hence the name 'Cooking out of the Box'. What is your goal? Cooking can be creative and rewarding on so many levels, and this is my goal - to share this philosophy with as many people as possible; this is what I try to pass on especially during cooking classes or food experiences. Since the beginning of civilisation, cooking and eating have always been a ritual that brings people together. We have lost the plot when it comes to food, due to the instant gratification world we are living in today, we have forgotten this fundamental part of life.Â Wasted hours spent on social media or watching a TV series, could be time spent together discovering the joy of creating healthy, wholesome meals. I found this when I attended a two-month Sushi-making course in Tokyo since I was invited to give a talk in a children's class as part of "Shokuiku". A food education program launched in Japan in 2005, on food disorders, obesity and other issues. The students also cooked and served each other, acknowledging how important food is and its origin.

Many who are not in the industry think that chefs are bound to one kitchen or place, and the job is repetitive. But you have managed to branch out and seek other possibilities. Can you tell us more? Yes, I have branched out in many diďŹ&#x20AC;erent areas, catering for VIPs on international and private airlines, superyachts, and as a personal chef for Royal families. My artistic flair has also led me to consult on new food concepts, work with designers in food photography as well as to participate in cooking programmes for various TV productions. I love to set challenges outside the kitchen too. Recently I finished my first chefs' knife-making course, and I am very proud to say that I made my very own Japanese Nagiri inspired chopper, with more to come. An exciting project was to artistically redesign a Bormla property into a new guest house (bocoboutique.com). A collaboration with my dear friend Claire Zammit Xuereb, called "Lotusworks" gave me more creative confidence as we redesign a collection of suites at The Palace hotel, one of them is the "Flavors Suite" a food and drink themed venue set in the 1950s. The sky is not the limit.

INTERVIEW

You like travelling and experimenting with kitchens abroad. Can you tell us about your latest adventure, that of being on-board a private boat and engaged as a personal chef? Travelling for me began at 18, in every new place I always sought out markets and food corners in search of authentic dishes and ways of food preparation that would help me give a twist to my dishes. There is always more to learn. My most recent learning experience was in Valencia for various paella-making workshops - their most famous dish - and I was amazed at the variety of diﬀerent paella styles that exist. It inspired me to hold private paella evenings at residences of my clients. Recently I travelled to Italy to cater for a VIP family. I took care of all their culinary needs - whether on their yacht or inside their villas. I enjoy these engagements as they usually let me design and execute my menus - be it a lunch party at sea, a cocktail party or five-course family dinner. A highlight of this trip was to cater to a few players from my favourite Italian team Juventus.

"Wasted hours spent on social media or watching a TV series, could be time spent together discovering the joy of creating healthy, wholesome meals."

What do you find to be the essential basics of your dishes? Using the freshest, local ingredients are crucial to my dishes. I always try to go to the source or as close to it as possible. I like being in touch with local producers, especially at food markets and farmers, one can learn from anyone! The best inspiration I ever got was from an 80-year-old woman in one of the food stalls in china town Thailand - she thought me what real flavours are, how to match them to perfection, the complexity of using 20 plus abstract ingredients to make a dish. It inspired me to be open with new techniques and not being afraid to experiment as much as possible; this keeps one from becoming predictable and boring - always on edge. Can you tell us something about your classes? I prefer to refer to these "classes" as experiences. People have different wants and likes, so I try to work with their needs rather than give a set of "classes". I tailor-make each experience per what level the attendees are, what they enjoy eating etc. I try to provide a different spin than the regular cooking classes people are used to. In the case of groups where people do not know each other, I like to inspire and get the group to think rather than learn the parrot way or copying recipes. I am also offering this service online to promote the idea of people staying at home during these times, where we all should be kept safe. Since the start of this pandemic, what changes have you done to your work?

The situation has impacted the restaurant business in a big way. It is sad to see everyone's hard work in jeopardy and sincerely hope to see things normalise soon. When we were under lock-down, I held free online cooking classes for anyone who wanted to join. I had people from the US, Canada, Malta, Australia and the UK all

Karl Mallia with his knife master Alfredo Faccipieri

on zoom watching and following my step by step and then enjoy their finished result. I thought it was essential to do something positive during the enforced period of staying at home and help people use their time to do something creative. It was great to see the camaraderie, fun and excitement these classes brought to these people around the world at such a stressful time. Any projects you are working on? My next adventure out of the kitchen about the kitchen is that of food styling for an international feature movie, the focus being food... You may catch up with Karl and find out more about his classes by visiting facebook.com/cookoutofthebox

"Wasted hours spent on social media or watching a TV series, could be time spent together discovering the joy of creating healthy, wholesome meals."

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RECIPE

Xmassing Cranberries

WE TEND ONLY TO USE CRANBERRIES AROUND CHRISTMAS TIME GIVING THE TART, RED BERRIES A TRULY FESTIVE FLAIR. COVER THEM IN SUGAR, AND YOU GET THAT LITTLE BIT OF SPARKLE THAT WILL TAKE US, ISLANDERS, AS CLOSE AS WEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;LL EVER GET TOO FROSTY BERRIES. THESE DESSERTS ARE EASY TO MAKE AND PERFECT FOR THE CHRISTMAS SEASON.

Rachel Zammit Cutajar

All ingredients available at PARK TOWERS SUPERMARKETS

Cranberry poached pears SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 8 pears, peeled but left whole 5 tbsp honey 3 tbsp sugar 1 strip orange zest 1 strip lemon zest 1 vanilla pod 1 cinnamon stick 2 bay leaves 200g fresh or frozen cranberries Whipped cream, to serve

METHOD: Place the peeled pears in a saucepan large enough for the pears to fit snuggly. Add enough water to cover barely (approx. 4 cups). Add the honey, sugar, zest, cinnamon and bay leaves. Scrape the vanilla seeds out of the pod and add to the pot. Add the pod as well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and allow to simmer for approx. 10 mins until tender. Add the cranberries and simmer for a further 3 mins. Allow cooling. Place in a large bowl with the syrup and some of the spices and allow to sit in the bowl for a few hours (the pears will turn redder the longer you leave them). Serve a pear per person with some cranberries, some of the syrup and whipped cream.

RECIPE

Cranberry swirl bread SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 70g sugar ½ tsp salt 1 packet yeast 450g bread flour ½ cup of water ½ cup milk 75g butter Cranberry filling 200g cranberries 50g packed brown sugar ½ cup of water 15g butter 1 tbsp lemon juice

Garnish Powdered sugar for dusting Sugared or fresh cranberries (optional)

METHOD: In a stand mixer, fitted with the hook attachment, mix the sugar, flour, yeast and salt and 130g of the flour. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter with the milk and water. Allow cooling until lukewarm. Add the liquid to the sugar and flour mix and mix on low speed until combined. Add the remaining flour, approx—100 g at a time. Knead until a smooth dough forms. If the dough is too sticky, add a bit more flour, if it’s too dry, add a bit of olive oil. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and allow to rise in a warm space for approx. 1 hour until doubled in size. While the dough is rising, place the cranberries, sugar and water into a saucepan and allow to simmer for 10 mins until thick. Remove from the heat and add the butter and lemon juice, mix in and allow to cool. Punch down the dough and, on a lightly floured surface, roll into a 25cm x 50cm rectangle. Starting from the short side, tightly roll up, pinching the edges as you go. With the seam at the bottom, carefully cut lengthways all the way through. Braid the dough carefully and transfer to a lightly greased loaf pan. Cover with a clean tea towel and allow to rise for 30-40 mins—Preheat the oven to 180°C. Bake in the oven for 40-45 mins until golden brown. Allow cooling for 10 mins in the tin before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Dust with icing sugar and decorate with fresh or sugared cranberries.

Sugared cranberries YOU WILL NEED: 340g fresh cranberries 400g sugar ½ cup of water

METHOD: Add 100g (½ cup) of the sugar to a saucepan with the water. Heat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the cranberries and mix well so that all the cranberries are coated. Spoon onto a wire rack and allow to dry for at least one hour. Working in batches, roll the cranberries in the remaining sugar and allow to dry completely – for at least one hour.

RECIPE

Cranberry lime pie SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: Crust 150g ginger biscuits 80g pecans 60g butter, melted 3 tbsp sugar Fillling 340g fresh or frozen cranberries 300g granulated sugar 3 eggs 2 egg yolks 1 tsp lemon zest 1 tsp lime zest 4 limes, juice only Pinch salt 160g butter, cut into cubes at room temperature Garnish Sugared cranberries 1 tsp lime zest

METHOD: Preheat the oven to 180Â°C. Put the ginger biscuits into a food processor and pulse until you have a fine crumb. Heat the pecans in a dry pan until fragrant. Add them to the biscuit crumb and pulse till you have a fine crumb. Add the sugar and the melted butter and mix to combine. Put the mixture into a pie dish and press up against the sides and the bottom, making sure there is an even coat of biscuit. Bake blind for 10-15 mins until the crust darkens a little. While the crust is baking, place the cranberries in a saucepan with 200g of the sugar and Âź cup of water. Bring to the boil and then reduce the heat and allow to simmer for 15 mins until the cranberries burst and most of the liquid has evaporated. Puree till smooth and allow to cool. Combine the cranberry puree, eggs, egg yolks, lemon and lime zest, lime juice and salt in a heatproof bowl over a pot of barely simmering water. Make sure the water does not touch the bottom of the bowl. Stir continuously until the curd thickens and coats the back of a spatula, approx. 8-10 mins. Allow cooling until just warm. Blend the mixture adding a cube of butter at a time until the mixture becomes paler in colour and the butter is used up. Scrape the mixture in the crust and smooth over with a spatula. Place in the fridge for at least two hours until set. Garnish with sugared cranberries and lime zest just before serving. The pie can be made up to two days in advance. Garnish just before serving.Â

RECIPE

The perfect panettone 24

THE FIRST COVID-19 BAKING CRAZE WENT TO BREAD WITH INSTAGRAM FEEDS FLOODED WITH LOAVES OF ALL KIND. AS CHRISTMAS THIS YEAR WILL BE ONE WHERE WE SPEND MORE TIME AT HOME, WITH FEWER PARTIES AND CHANCES OF SOCIALISING, IT’S ONLY RIGHT THAT WE SHOULD BE MAKING CHRISTMAS BREAD – PANETTONE. THOUGH CREATING YOUR OWN MAY SEEM LIKE A MAMMOTH TASK, THE RESULTS ARE WORTHWHILE. AND WHAT TO DO WITH LEFTOVERS, SHOULD THERE BE ANY? TRY THESE PANETTONE-INSPIRED DESSERTS/ BREAKFASTS.

Panettone SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 4 tbsp warm milk 2 sachets instant yeast 150g caster sugar 250g butter, softened 5 eggs, lightly beaten 2 tsp vanilla extract 1 lemon, zest only, finely grated 1 orange, zest only, finely grated 550g strong white bread flour ½ tsp salt 200g sultanas 200g raisins 6 tbsp dark rum 100g almonds Topping 1 tbsp caster sugar Egg white Icing sugar

METHOD: Put the instant yeast into the warm milk with 1 tbsp of the sugar and leave for a few mins. Till the mixture becomes frothy, beat the remaining sugar with the butter until pale and creamy. Add the orange and lemon zest. Add the eggs, a little at a time. If the mixture starts to curdle, add a tbsp of flour as necessary. Combine the sifted flour with the salt and make a well in the middle. Add the wet mixture into the middle and fold in until you get a soft dough. The dough will be very sticky at this stage. Knead for 10 mins in a stand mixer or by hand on a floured surface. Place in a lightly oiled bowl and place in the fridge to prove overnight. Put the sultanas and currants in a small saucepan with the rum and gently heat for 5 mins until the liquid is absorbed. When the dough has risen, tip out onto a floured surface and add the rum raisin mixture and the almonds and knead until combined. Shape into a ball and place into a greased panettone tin, or use panettone papers. Cover lightly with cling and leave to rise for 3-4 hours until doubled in size-Preheat the oven to 180°C. Whisk the beaten egg white with the caster sugar and brush the top of the panettone. Bake in the centre of the oven for 40 mins until a skewer placed in the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool completely before dusting with icing sugar.

RECIPE

Panettone bread and butter pudding with poached pears and chocolate SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 50g butter, softened 250g panettone (cut into five slices) 2 eggs 200ml milk 100ml cream 2 tbsp sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract Â˝ tsp cinnamon 50g dark chocolate, cut into bite-size chunks Poached pears

4 pears, peeled and left whole 4 tbsp sugar

METHOD: Preheat the oven to 170Â°C. Place the peeled pears in a saucepan large enough for the pears to fit snuggly. Add enough water to barely cover and add the sugar. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and allow to simmer for approx. 10 mins until tender. Cut the base of the pear so that they can stand up in the baking dish and place standing up. Butter the panettone slices and arrange around the pears. Add the chocolate chunks between the panettone slices. Whisk together the milk, cream, eggs, sugar, vanilla and cinnamon. Pour into the baking dish and allow the custard to soak into the panettone for 10 mins. Bake for 35-40 mins until a skewer placed into the centre comes out clean, and there is no runny custard. Serve with whipped cream.

Panettone French toast with chilli chocolate and candied ginger SERVES

YOU WILL NEED:

METHOD:

6 eggs

Whisk together the eggs, cream, milk, sugar, salt, cinnamon, vanilla extract and minced ginger until smooth. Cut the panettone into thick slices and cut in half. Heat a tablespoon of butter in a pan. Dip up to two slices at a time into the egg mixture and transfer to the pan. Fry for 2 mins and then flip over and fry on the other side. Do the same with the remaining panettone. Top with a tablespoon of mascarpone and top with grated chilli chocolate and crystallised ginger and serve immediately.

400ml fresh cream 300ml whole milk 100g sugar ½ tsp salt ½ tsp cinnamon ½ tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp ginger, minced 500g panettone Topping 6 tbsp mascarpone 100g chilli chocolate 100g crystallised ginger

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RECIPE

Kristina Cassar Dowling

Christmas Lunch

THE 2020 EDITION THE TRUTH IS 2020 HASN’T EXACTLY BEEN THE MOST NORMAL OF YEARS, SO WHY SHOULD OUR CHRISTMAS LUNCH FOLLOW TRADITION? KRISTINA CASSAR DOWLING DELIVERS A CHRISTMAS MENU THAT MIGHT BECOME THE NEW NORMAL. Just because 2020 didn’t quite work out the way most of us planned, doesn’t mean we need to put a hold on Christmas. This year many of us will be spending Christmas Day with just that one person we love, so the big turkey dinner might not seem too sustainable. This menu is designed for two. An intimate 3-course meal, focusing on quality produce, fine wine and a little more luxury than we’re accustomed to. This menu requires minimal eﬀort and prep time, allowing to you enjoy the day with a warm drink and a good Christmas movie.

All ingredients available at PARK TOWERS SUPERMARKETS

RECIPE

BEEF TARTARE & DUSTED PRAWN WITH HABANERO MAYO Tartare is a fine chop of protein; generally, beef, salmon or tuna - but other proteins like crustacean or mushroom could be experimented with. For this dish, a subtle twist on surf and turf brought beef fillet and local red prawns together. This dish is served with high-fat emulsions and tart elements; this helps to produce a mouthfeel that covers the palette to create a profoundly luxurious flavour profile.

YOU WILL NEED: SERVES

For the tartare 300g organic prime fillet of beef 10ml organic extra virgin olive oil 2 quail egg yolks Salt For the prawns 6 local red prawns, shelled and deveined 50g corn flour, sifted 100ml rapeseed oil Salt For the mayo 3 egg yolks 50ml rapeseed oil 1 habanero, roasted 1tbs raspberry vinegar

½ tsp ground mustard Salt Pepper

METHOD: The first thing to do is roast your pepper. Pop your habanero onto your small hob burner, turn on the flame and allow to char on either side. Turn repeatedly to avoid burning. While your habanero chars, trim your beef fillet. Chop into inch thick cubes and add to a mixing bowl. Salt, pour in olive oil and massage the meat with clean hands. Mould the tartare into a lightly oiled glass ramekin cover with a lid and refrigerate until ready to serve. Once charred, remove your habanero oﬀ the flame, pop into a paper bag and allow steam to release the skin. In a stand mixer, add 2 egg yolks, ground mustard, raspberry vinegar together with the skinned and deseeded chopped habanero. Mix on medium speed until all ingredients are combined. Slowly drizzle the oil into the mixture, season with salt and pepper and turn up the pace until a thick, luscious consistency is achieved. Store in an airtight container and refrigerate your mayo until ready to plate. The two processes above can be prepared beforehand and kept refrigerated until the rest of the menu is completed. For best results dust your prawns in seasoned corn flour minutes before you wish to plate. Merely deep fry for 1½ minutes, allow excess oil to dry out on a paper towel, salt and use as a garnish on your dish. To plate, smear some mayo onto your dish, layer the beef tartare on top of the mayo, create a small dent in the top of the tartare to house your quail’s egg yolk. Add your dusted prawns onto the tartare and serve with a chilled bottle of Sancerre.

RECIPE

AGLIO E OLIO SQUID INK LINGUINE WITH CONFIT-TOASTED LOBSTER & BLISTERED TOMATOES It sounds like hard work, but it’s not. The pasta base is a simple Aglio e Olio with tomatoes, and the intimidating lobster is easily manipulated to cooperate with you. Alternatively, you could always use a couple of langoustines. Yes, pasta as a course entry proves the risk of filling you up quickly, but a smaller pasta portion of this quality artisan black linguine will provide the perfect base for your lobster.

YOU WILL NEED: SERVES

For the pasta 150g artisanal squid ink linguine 12 heirloom cherry tomatoes ½ cup organic extra virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves ½ tsp chilli flakes

For the confit 1 cup of butter, melted 1 lobster, fresh-defrosted

METHOD: Boil a large pot of water, salt heavily and add a drizzle of olive oil. In a small saucepan melt the butter and allow each to reach temperature. Start by chopping some garlic, lengthwise into long, thin strips. Set aside and prepare your lobster. If you’re not comfortable extracting a whole tail and two claws from your lobster, ask your fishmonger to do it. It’s a quick process for them, but not too unachievable to manage at home. Freezing lobsters allows them to fall asleep as their temperature drops gradually. This humane practice is preferred when cooking lobster at home. Allow your lobster to defrost thoroughly and begin to break down

the shell. Start by removing the head with a sharp knife, snip oﬀ the claws with a pair of kitchen scissors or a sharp knife. To extract the meat from the claws, gently knock the claw with the back of your knife and carefully extract the whole claw. It takes time, but it’s incredibly satisfying when you complete the task. For the tail, snip the underside of the lobster to reveal the meat. Knock your knife along the back of the lobster and gently remove the tail from its shell. Tidy up the lobster extracts as necessary and add to the melted butter. Allow poaching for 7-9 minutes, depending on the size of the lobster. Remove from the butter bath and set aside. This step can quickly be done well before serving, to avoid stress during Christmas lunch. Confit your lobster up to a day before for best results. Eco Tip: allow butter to cool and store in the fridge for future crustacean confits. Freeze lobster shell to make a stock for fish-based dishes. When your pasta water comes to a boil, throw in the squid ink linguine and cook until al dente. Save 50ml of the starchy pasta water. While your pasta cooks, bring a sauté pan to medium heat, add olive oil and garlic to the dish until it becomes aromatic. Next, add the tomatoes and cook until they blister. Salt accordingly. Throw in the confit lobster and allow to toast in the garlic oil. Remove lobster and tomatoes from the pan. Add a drop more oil, a pinch of chilli flakes, add pasta to the pan and toss. Add more water if necessary. Serve up a portion of garlic squid ink linguine, garnish with blistered heirloom cherry tomatoes and top with a confit-toasted lobster tail or two claws. Drizzle some olive oil, and add a pinch of pepper to taste. Serve with Sauvignon Blanc to elevate the sweetness of this dish found in the squid ink, lobster and tomatoes. The chilli and garlic here will balance out the savoury aroma of the pasta plate.

RECIPE

GUANCIALE FRIED MEAGRE WITH FRIED SKIN & BEURRE BLANC SERVED WITH WRAPPED ASPARAGUS & SMASHED GARLIC POTATOES This dish can be partly prepared well before lunch is served. The potatoes can be pre-boiled, smashed and seasoned, the asparagus trimmed and pre-wrapped in even guanciale parcels and the fish filleted and skinned possibly even by your fishmonger. All that you’ll need to focus on is crisping up your skin in your already heated oil, used for the dusted prawns above. Turn on the oven for your potatoes and asparagus, lightly brown your fish fillets and make a quick beurre blanc. And the best part of this dish is that it’s made with white wine, so open your Chablis right away, pour yourself a glass - you’ll need a few drops for the beurre blanc.

YOU WILL NEED: SERVES

For the fish 1 meagre, filleted and skinned (save skin) 50g guanciale, thick-cut For the potatoes 12 new potatoes, boiled 1 head of garlic, halved Salt and pepper For the asparagus 12 asparagus spears, trimmed 4 slices guanciale, thinly sliced For the beurre blanc ¼ cup white wine ¼ cup white wine vinegar

2tbs shallots, finely chopped ⅓ cup heavy cream

½ tsp dried tarragon 1 cup unsalted butter, melted Salt

METHOD: First things first, preheat your oven to 190°C. Carefully smash your boiled new potatoes with the blade of a knife, place them on a silicone baking sheet, drizzle some olive oil, salt the potatoes and add the garlic to the baking sheet. Allow cooking for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown and crispy. With 10 minutes left of the potatoes’ cooking time; place the guanciale wrapped asparagus on a grilling tray above the potatoes. The cured pork fat will drip onto the potatoes and create a crunchier exterior. While your sides

are cooking, you’ll have enough time to make your sauce and cook the fish. In a hot sauté pan, add the thick-cut guanciale and allow to render all its fat. While the cured pork renders, start making you beurre blanc. Add the vinegar, wine, tarragon and shallots into a saucepan and reduce until a syrupy consistency forms. Strain the liquid to remove the tarragon and shallots. Return to the saucepan, allow to heat, gently add heavy cream and allow to simmer. Gradually add the melted butter and mix until a thick

consistency forms. Remove crispy guanciale from the pan, gently place the meagre fillets into the rendered pork fat, hold down the fish to avoid curling. Allow to cook for 2-3 minutes on either side or until a golden brown colour grows on the fish. The flesh should be soft to the touch and buttery in texture. Finish your dish by pouring the beurre blanc over the fish, top with deep-fried fish skin and crispy guanciale bits. Side with smashed garlic new potatoes, guanciale wrapped asparagus and a frosty glass of Chablis.

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THE FINANCE EDITION DECEMBER 2020

RECIPE

TONGUE-IN-STEW CHEF NICK DIACONO PREPARES SOME UNIQUE AND TANTALISING RECIPES USING LOCAL AND SEASONAL INGREDIENTS, TAKING READERS ON A FOOD TOUR FROM MARSEILLE TO LOMBARDY. THERE’S ALSO A RECIPE NOT FOR THE FAINT-HEARTED.

All ingredients available at PARK TOWERS SUPERMARKETS

Nick Diacono

SMOKED MACKEREL CHOWDER SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 1 whole smoked mackerel store-bought 3 medium potatoes 2 carrots 3 cloves garlic 200ml fresh cream 100g butter 2 leeks 500g milk 1 tsp anchovy 1 tsp smoked paprika 2 tsp salt 1 tsp white pepper

METHOD: Fillet and debone the mackerel, flake the meat and set aside, in a small pot, add the mackerel skin to the cream and leave to simmer gently for about 20 minutes. In a heavy-bottomed pan heat up the butter, add the chopped leeks, garlic and anchovy and cook with the lid on not to brown, once softened add the diced potato and carrot, stir well. Cover with milk, bring to a boil and leave to simmer until potato softens. Blend well using a stick blender and pass through a fine sieve, pass the cream through a sieve into the blended mixture, correct seasoning. Flake fish into chowder and mix well. Serve hot and garnish with paprika.

RECIPE

OX TONGUE & JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE STEW SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 1kg ox tongue 500g Jerusalem artichokes 1 medium onion 200g flour 3 cloves garlic 1 carrot 1 leek 1tblsp anchovy 4 sprigs thyme 2 bay leaves Tsp peppercorns 150g white wine 100g butter 40g olive oil 3 tbsp chopped parsley 2 tsp salt 1tsp black pepper

METHOD: In a pot cover the tongue in about 2 inches of water, add 1 onion cut in half, green leek tops roughly cut, 1 crushed garlic clove, bay leaves, peppercorns and 1 carrot roughly cut, bring to a boil and leave to boil for about 1 ½ to 2 hours, until tender. Using a pointed knife or skewer check for tenderness. Remove tongue from water and peel whilst still hot. Strain the stock and keep—cut tongue into bite-size slices, and coat well in the flour. In a casserole dish heat up the olive oil and butter and brown the tongue slices, remove from dish and brown diced leeks, chopped garlic, seasoning, thyme and anchovy, add white wine, deglaze the dish, cook until it evaporates. Peel and chop artichokes into small chunks and add to the dish, cook for about 10 minutes, return the tongue to the dish, top up with the tongue stock and reduce to simmer, leave to cook for about 35 minutes, until artichokes are soft and almost falling apart. Finish with freshly chopped parsley.

RECIPE

OSSOBUCO AND SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 6 slices ossobuco 1 bottle of decent red wine 500g beef stock 40g olive oil 40g butter 2 tbsp tomato paste 500g sweet potato 2 medium onions 2 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 200g flour 3 sprigs rosemary

METHOD:

Heat olive oil and butter in a casserole dish, coat the ossobuco slices in flour and brown well in the dish, remove and set aside. Add diced leeks and chopped garlic to the dish and cook until brown, add rosemary and tomato paste and cook further. Return ossobuco to the dish, add the red wine and return to a boil, reduce to a very gentle simmer and leave to cook for about 3 to 3 ½ hours adding. Add beef stock as you go along. Peel and cut a sweet potato into bite-size chunks, gently remove ossobuco from the dish and replace with sweet potato, add some more beef stock and cook over medium heat until the sweet potato softens, takes about 20 minutes. Return ossobuco to the dish and serve.

RECIPE

BOUILLABAISSE SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 2 medium skorfon ta ghajnu 2 small tracni 4 small trill 2 small lipp 1 medium squid 200g chicken necks 200g cozze 6 king prawns 2 tbsp tomato paste 4 tomatoes 1 small bulb fennel 2 small carrots 2 medium potatoes 200g flour 2 tbsp anchovy 2 medium onions 1 leek 4 cloves garlic 2 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 40g olive oil 40g butter 2 tbsp chopped dill

2 tbsp chopped parsley

METHOD: First, prepare all the seafood for cooking, cut the calamari into 4 pieces, score lightly with a sharp knife and leave to marinade in some seasoning, olive oil and garlic, set aside. Clean the mussels and set aside, fillet the trill, tracni and lipp keeping the bones. Prepare the vegetables for cooking, peel and dice the potato, peel and dice the carrot, trim and dice the fennel, trim and dice the leek, peel and finely chop the garlic. Keeping the prepared vegetables aside, in a small pot add the carrot peel, fennel trimmings, a whole onion cut in half, leek trimmings, chicken necks and fish bones and cover with water. Bring to a boil and leave to simmer gently for 20 minutes. Strain and leave nearby. In a casserole dish or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil and butter and quickly colour the prawns without

cooking through, coat the fish fillets in flour and do the same, set the fish and prawns aside. In the same pot add the diced leeks, fennel and garlic and cook until light brown. Add the seasoning, anchovy and tomato paste and cook for further 5 minutes, add the carrot, tomato and potato and stir well, just cover with stock prepared earlier and cook gently for about 45 minutes. Blend well using a stick blender and pass through a fine sieve. Now that your base is ready you may correct the seasoning, add chopped dill stir well. To finish, return the base to a gentle simmer, add the skorfon first, then mussels on top and close lid. In a very hot griddle pan grill the calamari for a couple of minutes and set aside. Now add the prawns, lipp, trill and calamari, switch oﬀ heat and close lid. Serve with warm bread, a drizzle of good olive oil and fresh chopped parsley.

PASTA MAKERS SINCE FOREVER.

The pasta is made by mixing durum wheat with calcium poor water of the Monti Latteri. The dough is then forced through bronze moulds and dried at low temperatures in the mountain air. The result of this long traditional process is one of the finest pasta in the world.

RECIPE

It takes two to Mango

Trevor Diacono

HEALTHY SNACKS DO NOT NEED TO BE BORING IN FLAVOUR OR TEXTURE. WITH A PINCH OF EFFORT AND INGENUITY, IT IS POSSIBLE TO CREATE DELICIOUS TREATS THAT ALL THE FAMILY WILL ENJOY. TREVOR DIACONO HAS A FEW IDEAS ON HOW TO CREATE THESE EASY-TO-MAKE SNACKS THAT ARE ALWAYS A WINNER.

All ingredients available at PARK TOWERS SUPERMARKETS

Mango fruit roll-ups (fruit leather) PROD. 7 ROLLS

YOU WILL NEED: 1 fresh ripe mango 1 tbsp agave syrup

METHOD: Peel the mango and blend it up with the agave (you can use any sweetener). Pour the blend evenly onto a baking paper. If you don't have a dehydrator, place in the oven at lowest heat (80 degrees) and with the door ajar for about 15 mins or until mango turns solid. Slice into strips, roll and serve.

RECIPE

Gourmet crackers SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: 1 cup almond flour 1 cup chia seeds 1 cup of water Your favourite herbs and spices

METHOD:

Mix all the ingredients and let it sit for 20 minutes. Flatten it out with a rolling pin and cut them to your desired shape. Place in the oven at 180 degrees for 30 mins or until crispy.

RECIPE

Kale Chips SERVES

YOU WILL NEED: Fresh curly kale 200g Cashews 50 Nutritional yeast flakes 1 heaped spoon full 1 spoon soy sauce

METHOD: Blend the cashews, nutritional yeast flakes and soy sauce till smooth. Mix it in with the kale. If you don't have a dehydrator, place in the oven at lowest heat (80 degrees) and with the door ajar for about 10 mins or until kale turns crispy.

PROMO

Four generations of artisanal pasta It was 1916 when Domenico Cocco started working at a pasta factory, at the age of 14 years old. Over the years, his work became a passion. The young lad learned the techniques and tricks of the art of pasta-making so quick under the guidance of the senior master pasta-makers, that he too was soon known as “Mastro Domenico”. He devoted his life to this fascinating trade, guarding all its secrets until he eventually passed them on to his son Giuseppe, the same as his seniors had done with him. In 1944, Giuseppe Cocco followed in his father’s footsteps.

He was put to the test with the diﬃcult task of searching through bomb-site rubble for machine parts used by former pasta-makers. The machines were re-assembled and were up and running again. With this sort of machinery, and those memories and those secrets, Cavaliere Giuseppe Cocco today produces in the village of Fara San Martino the pasta of those times gone by - just as good as it used to be. The old master pasta-makers claimed that there were four Photo: COCCO FAMILY

ingredients to making good pasta: the grain, the water, the air and the workmanship. The excellent physical properties of the water of the River Verde (the Green River), which springs naturally from the mountains just here, coupled with the dry, windy climate of the place, which is perfect for the pasta-drying process, are the two ingredients that mother nature has given Fara San Martino, and which make the pasta produced here unique. The precious ancient machines are still under the careful and scrupulous control of Cavaliere Giuseppe Cocco. He applies his unique experience to all the stages of the pastamaking process to ensure that all the protein value and nutrition remain intact, as well as the taste. The master pasta- maker pours the ground durum wheat into the kneading machine and gradually adds the purest spring water until the dough is firm and smooth.

The dough is passed through bronze moulds to give the pasta just the right slightly coarse texture that gets the sauce to cling and to bring out its flavour. The coiling machine rolls the pasta out into sheets, and with its wooden rollers, like traditional rolling pins, draws it out to the desired thickness. The pasta has now taken shape and then the most diďŹ&#x192;cult and delicate stage begins - drying the pasta at natural temperatures. The quality of the pasta depends, among other things, on a very carefully controlled drying process, which also ensures the pastaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nutritional properties and its quality during the cooking process. This stage is entrusted in the hands of the master pasta-maker, who decides how the pasta should be arranged on the Beachwood frames, how much air is needed and scrupulously watches over the driers. Going by these methods, which are rigorously craftsman-like, means taking more time and space, and producing pasta in smaller quantities. But it also means, above all, preserving the taste and flavour of pasta as it used to be in times gone by. And it is precisely this that interests Cavaliere Giuseppe Cocco, or Mastro Peppe, as he is called.

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NEWS

It's about time You are looking for the perfect Christmas gift to give to that foodie in your life whether it’s a family member, partner, friend, client or colleague? Then I would think that this brand new cookbook is your best bet. The Preca siblings, Roberta and Ramona (of Kings Own Band Club, Palazzo Preca and Tal-Familja), have just launched their very own cookbook which involves over 190 pages of straightforward home recipes that have been featured on their menus in the past. The book, named It’s About Time, is perfect for the novice cook or someone that is already experienced in the kitchen. Recipes include lobster tacos, pan-seared scallops with artichokes and spinach puree, rabbit pastizzi, veal T-bone with Cafe de Paris butter and gluten-free chocolate loaf. Part of the proceeds when you purchase the book will go towards DAR Bjorn, home for ALS. The book costs €25 and can be purchased online on www.shop.alsmalta.org.

New indoor boutique street food market in Birgu A trendy new indoor street market/boutique food hall has opened in Birgu, and it looks like there's something for everyone. Vault1 is home to four kiosks serving a plethora of foods under one roof (with indoor and outdoor seating). The interior design involves intact stone structure, shipping containers, and industrial fixtures.

Make it a Marriott Christmas!

Located right in the heart of authentic Malta, paired with the most beautiful views overlooking Balluta Bay, the team at the new Malta Marriott Hotel & Spa has created an incredible selection of food carefully tailored for each occasion, creating a perfect setting for colleagues, friends and families over this year’s festive season. In these ‘new normal’ times, the hotel continues to remain committed to guests’ safety and comfort. Through Marriott’s Commitment to Clean program, Malta Marriott is providing enhanced cleaning procedures throughout the entire hotel, covering public spaces, banqueting rooms and restaurants, with restrictions of capacities for staﬀ gatherings also being strictly adhered to. For any queries or bookings, please contact us on (+356) 2311 2100 or festivebookings@maltamarriott.com.

Eat now has a second street food van EAT, the beloved street food truck known for their succulent barbecued and smoked meats, have just rolled out a second street food truck. The new set of wheels (a classic 1968 BMC) is more extensive, shinier, and has a larger smoker. The menu will be the same as the first truck. Expect the juiciest of burgers, smoked pulled beef or pork, smoked beef brisket, Philly cheesesteak, and more (at very reasonable prices). The second location is in Pembroke (opposite Wembley Petrol station) and the operating hours are from 9am-3pm, Monday to Friday.

Like our vegetables need time, sun, water and great care to grow and to come to the right grade of maturation, in the same way our farm has budded and flourished year after year in the last 30 years. Our grandfathers, our fathers, the women of our family have given body and soul to the care of our land and its fruits. Their hard-working hands and their devotion have permitted us to grow up loving our sun and our red land, learning that is important to improve ourselves and the surrounding landscape. To produce as we do, let us say it, it is necessary to be a little bit agriculturist, a

little bit artisan and a little bit artist. Every time we create a new product, we stop to imagine which sensation we want to offer to our clients, which surprise we want to give them and, which is the best taste to use in order to leave a long memory of our wonderful place. Our farm is always opened to the public. With us people can discover and learn the art of cultivation, of the picking and the conservation of the vegetables. Touristic destination and meeting-place, â&#x20AC;&#x153;iContadiniâ&#x20AC;? is not only a brand but a way to choose a daily quality.

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